Á la Carte Alabama Spring/Summer 2020 by Á la Carte Alabama

A FRESH TAKE ON ALABAMA FOOD & DRINK

SPRING/SUMMER | 2020 SOL Y LUNA REVIVED

Tapas, Tequila and Tradition

CHEERS

Everything’s Coming Up Rosé

MY FAVORITE FOOD

Jazz Guitarist Eric Essix

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

The Challenge of Being Vegan in Alabama

CHEF CHRIS

HASTINGS 25 YEARS OF HOT & HOT FISH CLUB

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A FRESH TAKE ON ALABAMA FOOD & DRINK

IN THE

6 Pie Lab

38 Little London

55 Jones Valley

30 Take time to stop and smell the RosĂŠ A portion of this issue's content is courtesy of Alabama NewsCenter. A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

WE NOT ONLY FANCY LOCAL FOOD WE CAN BRAND YOUR BUSINESS

We Will Get Through This LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER by WILLIE CHRIESMAN

Establishments from fine-dining to meat-and-threes are closing their dining rooms and can only offer curbside or drive-thru service. The business they are doing is but a fraction of normal. But those may be the lucky ones. A growing number of restaurants are closing their doors permanently. And while that may be an inconvenience for those of us who like to dine out, there are people who find their very lives and livelihoods at risk.

As we put together this second issue of our Á La Carte Alabama magazine, the impact of the COVID-19 virus is being felt all over the state. While it is still too early to determine its full impact, it’s clear things will change in ways we can’t comprehend. Hospital beds are filling, communities are issuing stay-in-place orders and businesses of all kinds are taking major hits. Not least among those are the restaurants and the hospitality industries. Social distancing is not good for dining out.

The food and beverage service industry has added fuel to the economic fortunes of places like Birmingham and across Alabama. It’s important to extend a lifeline to these places and the people who work there through these tough times. If possible, please do the following – • Order take-out food from local restaurants and diners. • Support restaurant employees by leaving a bigger tip than you normally would. • Buy restaurant gift cards to help get more cash to them now. • Look for ways to help local food suppliers and farmers who are facing financial hardship.

A lot of the stories in this issue were done before this crisis hit, so some may seem a little out of place. A few of the restaurants we talk about may be closed or not yet open. It’s not a good idea to invite dozens of people to a picnic or family reunion. And shopping at a grocery store may require more planning. But we hope the stories here offer some diversion for you and serve as a little break from these challenging times. In our next issue, when things have – we hope – settled down, we will take a closer look at how this virus has disrupted the local food scene, and how we can strive to move forward. For now, enjoy this issue and think back to a more normal time. We will get through this. And when we do, it is food and drink that will help bring us back together. Stay safe and healthy.

Editor’s note: Visit our Facebook page, @alacarteal, for more food and nutrition stories during the COVID-19 crisis. Publisher

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All information herein has been checked for accuracy to the best of the publisher's ability. No responsibility is accepted for deletions, omissions, errors and/ or inaccuracies unless special placement within the magazine was purchased. Publisher reserves the right to place ad on first come, first served basis. No materials contained herein may be reproduced without exclusive written permission of the publisher. Opinions expressed by contributing writers are their own and do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s opinion. © Copyright 2020 by A La Carte Magazine, All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Special thanks to all our advertisers, business associates, departments, contributing writers, and all other supporting contributions involved in making this possible. 5

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Dessert Photos: KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA

A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

Pie Lab

Bringing People Together, One Slice at a Time by KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA

A MAN FROM PAPUA NEW GUINEA MADE THE TRIP TO GREENSBORO A FEW YEARS AGO AND SO HAVE OTHER TRAVELERS FROM ALMOST EVERY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD.

restaurant, and my family has been in Greensboro since 1816. I’m pretty sure they are the oldest family in town,” Seaborn Whatley said. He along with his wife Kelley run the place.

What could put the sleepy Black Belt town of fewer than 2500 people on any globetrotter’s itinerary?

Main Street in Greensboro resembles others in towns throughout the South. A few stores shuttered up, a few thriving and a few in between. There is no question where Pie Lab falls on that list. The place is large and airy with dozens of pies in cooled cases greeting customers. Large wooden tables and hardwood floors remind of a bygone time.

The answer is pie or, more specifically, Pie Lab. People from around the globe make the Greensboro pilgrimage to sample the chocolate chess, German chocolate, bourbon pecan, Oreo, key lime and other flavors that may send you home for a nap or straight to heaven. “I grew up 10 miles from the A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

“We do pretty much everything here, all the fruit pies and others. If someone calls and wants us to duplicate

their grandmother’s pie, we’ll try to bring it back to life. Making pies can be a bit monotonous, especially rolling the crust. It’s the same thing over and over and over again, but it’s a job we love,” Whatley said. Pie Lab began as a movement to innovate initiatives focused on artisanal food and restaurant operations, all to foster social change. While the social change is happening at a predictable rate, the pies are flying off the shelves. Southern Living magazine named Pie Lab’s apple pie as the best in the South and the James Beard Foundation named Pie Lab one of three 2010 finalists for restaurant design.

Photo: KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA

“Everybody says we have the most unique pie crust. It’s somewhere between a puff pastry and a croissant, simply because of the amount of butter. We try to make everything as decadent as we can. One batch of crust has about 4 pounds of butter,” Whatley said. He maintains that a piece of pie is not only a food or a dessert, it’s a vehicle for happiness. The secret to success is explained on their Facebook page. “Pie Lab is a pie shop meant to gather communities together,” Whatley explains. “It’s founded on the idea that simple things, like delicious pie and good conversation, can bring us together and spread joy.” “Pie + Conversation = Ideas. Ideas + Design = Positive Change,” reads Pie Lab’s Facebook page. Whatley sells his pies at the restaurant and at farmers markets all over the state, including Pepper Place in Birmingham. Most weeks they sell hundreds of pies, but during the holiday season things accelerate. “The amount of pies we sell every month depends on the season. I can tell you the week of Thanksgiving last 8

year we sold over a thousand pies. My wife and I got here Monday morning and didn’t leave until Wednesday afternoon. We did not sleep and worked the entire time, but we loved it,” Whatley said. “It’s nice to be known and to have a lost art that’s appreciated.” Some offerings of Pie Lab vary, but the staples are steady– apple double crust, apple crumble, triple berry, peach bourbon and cherry. Sweet pie is not the only thing you can get. They offer many savory choices, including corn and poblano quiche, broccoli cheddar, quiche Lorraine, spinach Florentine, lemon sour cream and Amish peanut butter. Joy glistens in the eyes of customers when they bite into a piece of pie. Time slows down, and not just because you’re in the South.

“A piece of pie is joy and really bliss. People gather around a pie and chat. It’s crazy how much our customers love our pies. We use Grandma Dora’s recipe for the crust,” Whatley said. Pie Lab has drawn jobs to the small town. Creating jobs is something Whatley is passionate about. “I would like to see a few more locations opening up, but the base of it is job training our youth with their first jobs and teaching them how to work.” Whatley proudly showed a customer a map with pushpins marking the homes of customers from all over the world. He believes deeply in a simple truth: good food brings people together and spreads joy.

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Food For Thought

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How Comfort Food – and Love – Nursed Me Back to Health by MARIE A. SUTTON

THE MEDICAL EXAM ROOM WAS COLD. I WAS SITTING THERE DRUNK WITH FEAR WHEN I HEARD THE WORDS FROM MY DOCTOR, “STAGE THREE BREAST CANCER.” The fear storm grew into a massive whirling hurricane ripping my world off its foundation. Plans of aggressive chemotherapy caused everything in my life to pause. Little daily acts -- like being active at my church, staying up nights to read my favorite books or cooking my family their nightly dinner -- would temporarily be no more. Cancer can rob you of your strength, your confidence and even the sweetness of your favorite chocolate. As news of my diagnosis spread, people swarmed in to

help. From Mountain Brook to Ensley, they came to nurse me back to health. These family members, co-workers, neighbors and friends of friends weren’t oncologists or healthcare providers, but they offered what they could – prayers and lots and lots of food. That’s the Southern way, I guess. In the land of buttered biscuits, hot grits and peach cobbler, food is the language of love. Grandmamas love on their grandbabies with tea cakes and lip-puckering sweet tea. Neighbors welcome a new family with brownies and a handwritten note. Church ladies comfort the relatives of a departed loved one with overstuffed boxes of fried chicken. Food is love. Our community loved on my family and me with countless personal deliveries of casseroles, boxed meals, foil-

covered surprises and bags of culinary goodies. Mushroom quiche from a James Beard award-winning food writer, chicken pot pie from a fledgling foodie, and more delicious treats all helped to spare my sweet husband who was totally on his own taking care of the house and kids. And, for my little ones, it became a fun guessing game, “What are we eating today, mommy?” Once when our doorbell rang, we opened to find a hot, bubbling baked vegetable lasagna sitting on the doorstep with a sweet note. On Sundays for several months, an assistant vice president from work shed her power suit and donned jeans and a t-shirt to serve my family a homemade dinner and dessert. A cardiologist’s wife sent over a dish of quinoa with spinach and chicken. (It was my first time eating the delicious grain, and I gave it a big thumbs-up). A chef

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Our community loved on my family and me with countless personal deliveries of casseroles, boxed meals, foil-covered surprises and bags of culinary goodies. Getty Images

showed up with stacked pans of baked chicken, pastas and desserts. I call him my Fairy Food-Father! My heart, just like my refrigerator, was full. At first, I could not join my family in eating the meals. My taste buds were out of whack. Textures felt foreign in my mouth and spices didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t register on my tongue. Slowly but surely, little nibbles here and bites there became like a de-

A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

fibrillator for my appetite: tender, peppery collard greens cooked with smoked turkey; hot, pillowy buttermilk cornbread made with enough butter to lather an elephant; golden, fried chicken seasoned to perfection; and knee-buckling chocolate pie that could win the gold medal. Pretty soon, I got stronger and was able to sit at the table and partake. After getting my fill of these lovelaced meals, my dull eyes lightened and my sunken cheeks swelled. I

had no idea that among my long list of cancer-fighting drugs with names I could barely pronounce, collard greens and cornbread would help lead to my healing. They call it comfort food for a reason. When I needed comfort, the food friends brought me did just that. Today, I am newly-cancer free, and my belly and my heart are full . . . with love.

THE

ENTREE HOW CHEF CHRIS HASTINGS CHOSE BIRMINGHAM FOR HIS RESTAURANT Article by WILLIE CHRIESMAN & photos by PHIL FREE

One of the Magic City’s fine dining institutions may have never happened here at all.

“We were planning to open up the Hot & Hot Fish Club in Atlanta. Some friends of ours cajoled us and said, ‘What are you doing? Why leave Birmingham? You have so many great relationships here, and we would love for you to stay’.” And so, Chris Hastings and his wife Idie launched one of the city’s premier dining spots on the Southside. That was 25 years ago. “You have to remember,” he continued, “in 1995, it was Frank (Stitt of Highlands Bar & Grill) and a handful of others. This massive expansion of restaurants hadn’t happened yet, and we liked the idea of raising our family in Birmingham rather than Atlanta.” A North Carolina native, Hastings’ experience here

A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

began with the legendary Chef Stitt. “My wife and I had been in Birmingham where I worked for Frank. Then we left for San Francisco where Idie got her culinary degree, then came back for another brief stint with Frank,” he explained. It was then they decided to open Hot & Hot Fish Club, now a renowned eatery with its distinctive take on Southern food and accents of French and California influences. Chris and Idie Hastings established a food destination that has won a dining table full of awards, including a James Beard Foundation Award for Chris as Best Chef–South in 2012. After 24 years in its original location, circumstances forced the couple to relocate their iconic fine dining spot. Developers were go-

ing to tear down a number of buildings, including the one housing the restaurant. So, Hastings went to work. “We immediately began looking for potential spots and here we are,” he proudly said. The new location at Pepper Place occupies the space that used to house Cantina Tortilla Grill. Hastings did his homework before settling on it. “I started to study neighborhoods and movement flows and look at the different cities including downtown Birmingham, Mountain Brook, Vestavia, Homewood and others. I’d seen the movement in Avondale. I also knew what was going on in Pepper Place. That growth here is really strong,” Hastings said. One of the reasons he was 13

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THE

ENTREE

“

HOW CHEF CHRIS HASTINGS CHOSE BIRMINGHAM FOR HIS RESTAURANT

We’re never walking away from all of those great classics we have created.

familiar with Pepper Place is because of his other restaurant, OvenBird, which opened not far away in 2015. For him, that proximity is a big plus.

things to stay the same. “From a cuisine standpoint, we’re never walking away from all of those great classics we have created,” he assured us.

“A bartender can run over here and say, ‘I forgot to pick up bourbon today’ or one of the chefs can ask, ‘Do you have an extra flat of leaf parsley?’ We can also be more thoughtful about our purchasing, and it allows our staffs to co-mingle so we can cross-train easier. We’re thrilled to be 150 yards from OvenBird,” Hastings said.

But you can also expect some innovations. “We will modify some of our offerings in a section of the menu we call the R&D Kitchen. Those are eight items, small plate format, all the same price. I’m trying to teach young cooks how to share ideas and how to think about food, how to taste food, how to take it from an idea through a research and development process – where you don’t just put it on a plate and call yourself a genius. That never works.”

Even with the new location, Hastings promises you can expect a lot of A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

Hastings hopes that innovation will lead to new diners who may be put off by the regular menu. “It’s a nice way to attract folks who don’t want to spend $100 a person. Instead, they can eat a couple of small plates that are $15 a piece, have a nice glass of wine and you don’t have to hock your Jimmy Choo shoes to pay for dinner,” he said.

With a new location, new menu items and an ongoing commitment to quality, Hastings looks to be around for at least another 25 years.

Chef’s Table CHEF CHRIS HASTINGS OFFERS ADVICE ON COOKING AT HOME, TELLS WHAT EVERY HOME COOK SHOULD HAVE IN THE KITCHEN AND CONFESSES HIS GUILTY FOOD PLEASURE WHAT IS YOUR BEST ADVICE FOR THE HOME COOK? What they need to do to be better cooks is to get the very highest quality ingredients they can find and keep it simple. Don’t try to jump out there and do stuff that’s terribly complicated out of the gate. Begin to learn how to sauté correctly, learn how to braise correctly, learn how to grill correctly, learn how to do certain techniques correctly. There are plenty of resources out there, whether it’s a YouTube video or great cookbooks, any number of things. But you can’t produce great, delicious food without great ingredients. So, spend the additional money you need to spend on ingredients. I can’t turn a tough steak into a tender steak if it’s just a poor cut of meat from the beginning. You just can’t do that. So, always buy great quality. And then really understand the relationship of seasoning – salt, pepper, fat, acid. If you’re using a little drizzle of extra virgin olive oil on a piece of fish, you need a nice squeeze of lemon on there. Or, if you want to make a butter sauce for that fish, it needs a balance with lemon or vinegar to brighten that sauce up so it complements the fish and allows all the flavors on that plate to be realized so there’s not too much butter that’s cloying on your palate and the lemon and vinegar brighten it all and allow it to be tasted individually and together in a way that elevates cooking to the next level. WHAT ARE THE MUST-HAVES IN THE KITCHEN? I’ll break it into categories. You need a good pantry and inside your pantry you need good vinegars, good oils, good spices, good seasonings. You need things like grains and dried beans – different tools in your tool16

box that are dried goods. You need to have good things in your refrigerator. I like to have things like good quality cured meats around and good quality cheeses. I like to have fresh produce – lemons and limes and other types of citrus, to provide acid for dishes – and fresh herbs. I like dried herbs in my kitchen, but I like to do my own dried herbs, like I’ll buy rosemary and thyme and marjoram and savory and I’ll just put them out on my counter and let them dry. That’s better than buying dried herbs that may have been dried a year ago in a warehouse somewhere at a thousand degrees just sitting there. It’s very fragrant. It’s just better. A good selection of salts and good olive oils are also good. WHAT DO YOU MAKE WHEN YOU COOK AT HOME? I keep it simple when I cook for my family. One of the favorite things for my wife and my kids and me is a sim-

ple roasted chicken that we’ve done since they were born. Good quality chicken, organically raised, stuffed with a little bit of fresh thyme and rosemary and salt and pepper, rubbed with olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper. Underneath that, a variety of root vegetables – parsnips, turnips, rutabagas, onions, mushrooms, carrots. Then a little drizzle of olive oil, a little more fresh herbs, put the chicken on the vegetables, roast it in a pan for an hour, pull it out. Best meal you’ll ever eat. WHAT’S YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? I like a peanut butter and jelly sandwich after work with a tall glass of cold, cold whole milk. I love, love that. It’s one of my favorite things, always has been. I like the black raspberry jam from Smucker’s and Jif Creamy and fresh organic milk from the local farms here and that’s just awesome. It’s one of my favorite things in the whole world.

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Alabama Originals

A Little Alabama History in a Nutshell

by TERRY SCHRIMSCHER

THE SMELL OF WARM, ROASTED PEANUTS HAS BEEN TICKLING NOSES IN DOWNTOWN BIRMINGHAM FOR WELL OVER A CENTURY.

nut merchants over the past century, Thursby is proud of the fact that he still uses some of the original roasting equipment.

“We have about six of the original roasters,” Thursby This distinct aroma has tempt- said. “The one we use daily ed locals and tourists with the roasts 25 pounds at a time and state’s signature treat since is about 100 years old.” 1907. The original roaster is about The Alabama Peanut Co. cur113 years old. Alabama Peanut rently occupies the popular Co. recently purchased two spot on Morris Avenue. more roasters to expand the capacity of the business. “We purchased the business on Morris Avenue in June Thursby didn’t plan to beof 2018 from John Cassimus, come part of Birmingham’s grandson of the original Peapeanut history when he nut Depot owner,” said Jaime opened the company in 2016. Thursby, owner of Alabama He was simply looking for a Peanut Co. “He had been boiled peanut vendor for his looking for somebody who family’s antique business, On wanted to keep the storied a Shoestring in Hoover’s Bluff peanut tradition alive for Bir- Park. When he couldn’t find mingham. We were honored a local vendor, he purchased to jump in and continue what a turkey roaster and started is one of America’s longestmaking his own boiled pearunning peanut merchants nuts. They were so popular he and quite possibly the oldest.” began doing pop-up shops at local breweries and markets Although the location has on weekends. been home to several pea18

“We currently have over 100 flavors of boiled peanuts that we rotate daily,” Thursby said. “We always have Classic Salt and Alabama Cajun Boiled. Most popular are our pickled flavors, Alabama Cajun or our Collard Green Boiled Peanuts.” To attract interest from early morning customers, Thursby developed a Bloody Mary Boiled Peanut for The Market at Pepper Place. The unusual combination became an instant favorite and gained the company a lot of attention. Today, Alabama Peanut Co. continues to sell a rotating menu of traditional and flavored boiled peanuts. You can find Alabama Peanut Co. treats on sale at the flagship store on Morris Avenue and at the snack bar at Ore Mercantile in Avondale. Customers can buy roasted peanuts online on the company website.

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Experience the Best

Fin & Fork by KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA

DOWN ON ALABAMAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GULF COAST, NOT TOO FAR FROM THE WATER, IS A RESTAURANT INVITING YOU NOT ONLY VIA THE DELICIOUS AND SPECTACULAR FOOD IT PROVIDES, BUT ALSO BY ITS NAME.

On the Beach by KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA

Fin & Fork has become one of the hottest spots in Orange Beach. Many in the area have grown to love this place. And there is plenty to love. Despite the huge crowds, general manager Chez Devane and his team have been able to keep the wait to a tolerable amount of time. “This past summer we actually kept all of our waits down to 35 minutes,” Devane said. “We have a great team of folks and they keep things moving, all while serving the best food.” Fin & Fork is owned by Matt and Regina Shipp, who have been in the restaurant business for over a decade. They used to own another restaurant in the area which burned down a few years ago. “Matt and Regina have done so much for the community and used to own one of the most popular spots in the area. When Shipp Harbor Grill burned down, instead of rebuilding, we moved to this loca-

tion here in 2018,” Devane said. Fin & Fork offers the best of fine dining with a relaxed atmosphere. While the place is widely known for its scrumptious offerings of seafood, it also serves a delectable steak that Devane deems as the best around. The menu is varied and offers treats such as oysters, ahi tuna, mahimahi, snapper, royal red shrimp, gumbo, filet mignon, duck, pasta and a few sushi offerings including crunchy shrimp and blackened tuna rolls. “Our signature dish is the grouper, that's what everyone comes here for,” Devane said. “The fresh gulf grouper comes with onions, mushrooms, white wine, lemon butter, seasonings, Alabama wild shrimp, bayou blue crab and a delicious panko crust.” Some of the other favorites are the blackened mahi-mahi, crab-stuffedsnapper with Hollandaise sauce

and the traditional fried seafood platters. And just because you are on the beach, it doesn’t mean you should completely ignore the flying eats! Fin & Fork offers a delicious free-range chicken stuffed with brie, spinach and artichokes. Also, when it comes to beef, Fin & Fork will satisfy. “Matt only gets the best quality, locally sourced seafood and beef. We hand trim all of our beef and all cuts are 8-ounce filets,” Devane said. “We serve the filet with a demiglace mushroom sauce. We also do a Cajun style steak. And we offer a wide wine selection starting with the moderately priced bottle all the way up to $130.” Next time you are at Orange Beach and you have a hankering for a great meal, which for me is the entire time I am at the beach, head over to Fin & Fork, where the Fins are perfectly prepared, and the Forks are at your service.

Editor's note: Fin & Fok announced they would not re-open their Orange Beach location but will relocate to downtown Pensacola, Florida. Their new address will be 601 E Gregory St. Pensacola, FL 32502. A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

Independent Grocery Stores FREEWHEELING FORAGING FOR FOOD FLOURISHES IN OUR FAIR CITY by ERIC VELASCO

HARINAM SINGH KHALSA AND HIS WIFE HARINAM KAUR FOUNDED GOLDEN TEMPLE NATURAL GROCERY & CAFÉ IN 1973, BECAUSE THEY COULDN’T FIND ONE OF THE MOST BASIC STAPLES IN THEIR VEGETARIAN DIET, BROWN RICE. THE CAFÉ WAS, AND REMAINS, BIRMINGHAM’S ONLY ALL-VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT.

and Alabama-made products are plentiful in the bodega-like market.

and bring the product to their warehouse. We can get it immediately, within two days.”

Golden Temple and Harvest Market are examples of independent grocers and markets around greater Birmingham that specialize in meeting the unique needs of their communities by supplying products and services that chain groceries cannot or will not.

Birmingham’s independents carve their niches with health food and New Age products, fresh-picked produce from local and regional farms, hand-cut meats, house-made sausages, Gulf seafood, and international culinary ingredients.

Meanwhile, and amid the skyscrapers in Birmingham’s business district, Harvest Market opened in May 2019 to provide food, household needs and a gathering spot for residents in the fast-growing loft district and for downtown workers. Just-picked locally grown food

“Ask a chain store for something they don’t carry,” said Jeff Gentry, director of operations for an investment group that also owns the Harvest Market at Brock’s Gap in Hoover and the Village Market in East Lake. “They have to run it up the (corporate) totem pole, get approval

Golden Temple, which started in Homewood and moved to its current Five Points South location in 1975, has been a local trendsetter. It was the first to sell food from bulk bins, serve frozen yogurt and carry Birkenstock sandals, among others. When Frank Stitt opened HighALACARTE.AL.COM

lands Bar & Grill in 1982, the only place he could find organic grits for his restaurant’s signature dish was Golden Temple. “A lot of things that are commonplace now, we were the first,” said Khalsa, who also has a Golden Temple store in Trussville. “We were doing smoothies before they were even called ‘smoothies.’” Part of Harvest Market’s business model is built around Birmingham’s hunger for locally grown food and Alabama-made products. The company gets produce from Shelby County growers Southern Organics and other nearby farms. Most salad bar items are locally grown. In addition to Birmingham-brewed beers, the store also stocks prepared products including Spoon and Ladle, T’Lish, and Conecuh. Independent grocers and markets often become community clubhouses. Golden Temple offers yoga, meditation and massage therapy. Harvest Market’s stores feature a common area with televisions for people to watch while sipping beer, wine or a smoothie after work.

Independent grocers also can be a neighborhood’s sole source of fresh food. Some 69 percent of city residents in Birmingham – nearly 150,000 people – live in food deserts. They are more than a mile from sources of fresh produce, whole grains and other healthy foods, and often lack sufficient transportation. The Healthy Foods Ordinance, passed in July by the Birmingham City Council, offers incentives for chain groceries to open in underserved neighborhoods. With three chains declining so far, city officials see independent groceries as part of the solution.

gives people a healthy, clean place to shop.”

The neighborhood around Second Avenue South and 77th Street in East Lake was in danger of becoming another food desert, after Western Supermarkets announced plans in January 2019 to close Village Market. Harvest Market’s owners kept the aging grocery open after buying it that spring. They are spending one million dollars on renovations, including $200,000 from the city’s Healthy Food Fund. The city also will rebate $665,000 in taxes over 10 years. “It’s a great community that wants healthier alternatives and hasn’t had access to them,” Gentry said. “This

Khalsa said he is proud of how Golden Temple has become essential on multiple levels during its 47 years. He recalled a day years ago when he approached a couple who had been sitting in the café for hours, talking quietly. Their house had burned down, they explained. After losing everything they had nowhere to go. “They said they came here because this place gave them comfort. I feel very good about what we do. We’re serving the community in a spiritual way.”

Independent grocers also produce jobs in their communities, providing neighborhood teens with their first work experience and finding hidden gems in people other employers might overlook. Harvest Market’s first hire at its downtown store stayed in nearby homeless shelters. The company, which retained Village Market’s staff, employs about 90 at its three stores. Golden Temple has more than two-dozen workers, including multiple generations from a few families.

INDEPENDENT GROCERY STORE LOCATIONS Golden Temple Five Points South 1901 11th Ave. South Birmingham, AL 35205

Golden Temple Trussville 1110 North Chalkville Road Trussville, AL 35173

Harvest Market Downtown 1924 Second Ave. Birmingham, AL 35203

Harvest Market Hoover 1031 Brock’s Gap Parkway Hoover, AL 35244

Village Market 7737 Second Ave. S Birmingham, AL 35206

Bringing back the memory

of a Cullinary Icon

Sol y Luna GUILLERMO CASTRO CAST A LARGE SHADOW ON THE BIRMINGHAM RESTAURANT SCENE. by WILLIE CHRIESMAN & photos by JESSICA CHRIESMAN

When he opened the beloved Sol y Luna restaurant in the Lakeview district in 1998, it was something new for the city. As his brother Jorge recalls, “The idea of Sol y Luna was tapas and tequilas, small portions of food you can share with people at your table. “I really believe at that time there wasn’t a really good Mexican restaurant in Birmingham. Soy y Luna wasn’t traditional Tex-Mex. We were trying to use a little more upscale food, using the flavors of Mexico.” In addition to authenticity, Guillermo was intent on bringing ambience to his customers’ dining experience. All that came to an end after he passed away in 2011 at the age of 52. The original Sol y Luna closed in 2013.

A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

Now, Jorge, who ran Cantina Tortilla Grill at Pepper Place, is bringing back the essence of the popular restaurant in a new location. “The last three years I was telling friends that I wanted to bring back Sol y Luna one day. It was the first restaurant created in the family here.

aspect. Here it’s a modern new building. The combination of the colors, the lights – we’re trying to recreate the ambience we had from the past but in a newer way,” Jorge said.

That “right spot” is in the Lane Parke mixed-use development in Mountain Brook, near the Grand Bohemian Hotel.

Jorge believes the real treasure is what you eat and drink at his restaurant. When asked what the must-haves are, he said with a wide smile, “All the food is good, but we have some favorites like the lobster soft taco, the Sábana Mexicana – which is a beef tenderloin with chipotle chutney sauce – and the Mojo, a red snapper and sautéed shrimp.” He recommends everyone at the table order a couple of different dishes, then share with each other.

“Our old location in Lakeview was an old brick building where we could give you that rustic

But whatever you do, don’t forget the libations. “Definitely, the Sol y Luna Margarita and

"There was something special about it. Then a good friend told me about this space, and I felt this was the right spot for Sol y Luna,” Jorge said.

“

The combination of the colors, the lights – we’re trying to recreate the ambience we had from the past but in a newer way.

A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

” 37

the Perfect Margarita,” he exclaimed, “they are ‘killers.’ We want to teach our customers more about the tequilas. So, they can enjoy them better.” Jorge’s approach to educate and inform also applies to the food. “You could learn a little about the traditions of Mexico, about good tequilas. It’s a combination of everything that makes it kind of fun, a little sophis-

ticated but more than anything fun and comfortable.”

table enjoying food, drinks and each other.

Ultimately, it is that combination of food, drink, atmosphere and fun that Jorge Castro hopes will recall the spirit of the old Sol y Luna, as well as fond memories of his brother Guillermo. He wants to share the things his family taught him growing up in Mexico when they sat around the

“This is something we want to recreate for our customers. We want our friends to come and sit at the table, enjoy the meal, have a good chat, and have good drinks; then invite new friends to enjoy that experience.”

Straight from Mexico CHEF JORGE OFFERS TIPS ON TASTING TEQUILAS When it comes to Mexican food, Jorge Castro is the expert. His knowledge goes far beyond the Mexican food we may whip up at home, like enchiladas, quesadillas and tacos. Something else he is an expert on is the signature drink of his country of birth – tequila. He admits having to overcome the negativity some people associate with the popular libation. He explains while smiling, “Normally, when I try to offer tequila to somebody, they say, ‘No, tequila is a bad experience for me.’ And I say, ‘Let me guess, spring break A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

you drank the whole bottle of Cuervo by yourself, so the next thing you knew you were dying.’” Once they overcome those bad memories, he tries to educate his diners about the intoxicating elixir. “Tequila is a specialty drink, and it’s only made in Mexico. It comes from three states on the Pacific side where the plant blue agave grows. Tequila is made with this plant.” Jorge takes pride in his knowledge and loves to share his passion. “There are different options for tequilas – silver, reposado, añejo and extra

añejo. When people ask me which one is the best, I say, whatever you like better. “I don’t like the silvers too much. It’s a strong flavor. But I do like the añejos. Those are the aged tequilas. The silvers, for me, are good to mix margaritas or those kinds of drinks. But the añejos, or dark tequilas, are better to sip and drink by themselves.” So, put away that shot glass and take some time to enjoy and savor Jorge’s beloved drink. Maybe head over to Sol y Luna and allow him to offer you his best. 27

Cheers

Oversoul Brewing Offers Brews, Soul by JOHN MANTOOTH

ON A WARM ALABAMA WINTER NIGHT NOT TOO LONG AGO, I STOPPED BY OVERSOUL BREWING IN HELENA WITH MY WIFE AND A FRIEND.

of lemon. Jason said it was brewed specifically to appeal to craft beer newbies. Based on this criterion, I’d say it was a success. It was flavorful and easy to drink at 5.3 percent ABV (alcohol by volume).

The crowd was laid back, chatty and the vibe felt friendly and very chill. One of the owners, Jason Pruitt, was a soft-spoken man with a long beard. He’s easy-going and a good storyteller. I wanted to know about the beer.

I moved to the House IPA. I caught a whiff of the hoppy West Coast style goodness and I was sold. A few sips later, I was sure I’d found my favorite beer of the evening. This was everything I loved about this style of IPA. Hoppy, piney, resiny but still extremely approachable. I made a mental note to order a second one before leaving.

There were six beers on tap and I decided I’d try them all. I started easy with the Denim and Pearls Pilsner, which was pleasantly clean with a hint 28

For my next beer, I decided

to stick with hops and try the Bearded Haze IPA. It was a great representation of the New England style IPA, but I much preferred the assertiveness of the House IPA. It’s definitely worth a look if you’re into the more unfiltered, laid back East Coast style of IPA, but I’m a hops guy. Big, bold and bitter will always make me happy. While I sipped my Bearded Haze IPA, Jason led us down to the brewery tanks where his brother, Scott, was hard at work. Within seconds of observing Scott at his craft, I could tell he had an almost reverential ALACARTE.AL.COM

approach to brewing. He worked quietly, steadily studying each tank, checking levels, tweaking dials. In fact, his work so consumed him, Scott failed to even note our presence. Watching Scott brew beer was an experience akin to how I imagine an ascetic monk would go about his daily rituals. Every action was intense, meaningful, performed from a great respect for the higher calling for the craft. I was ready for another beer. Scott had mentioned that one of the unique things he’d discovered as a brewer was adding blackberries to certain darker ales, so I opted to try the Buck Creek Brown. After confirming with Jason that the BCB was indeed brewed with blackberries, I took in the beer’s

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appearance. The effect of the blackberries was clear, at least visibly. This was a brown that looked like a darker beer, a stout or porter. I took my first sip, expecting a thick mouthfeel and some malty goodness. But I realized the darker color had tricked me into expecting a stout. This was definitely a brown. Tasty enough, but I supposed I wanted something a little more challenging and engaging. Not a bad beer by any means, but it didn’t quite stack up with the others. Next up was a beer I’d been putting off. Sour Kidz IPA. I like every style of beer known to man except sours. Like the Buck Creek Brown, this beer was very attractive. A nice white head with some fine lacing around the rim of the glass. Below that, the beer was amber, almost caramel colored and appetizing. It

smelled like candy. The first sip was a total surprise. It was wonderful. A hoppy, dank concoction with a hint of sweetness. Jason told me that the “sour” in the name came from the candy Sour Patch Kids. Who knew putting candy in beer could be so effective? My last beer was a solid beer, tasty, and approachable. It’s called Two Pistol Porter. Scott and Jason lost a friend a few years back, a musician named Pete. They brewed this porter in honor of him. Listening to Jason tell the story of their lost friend, it hit me that Oversoul Brewing couldn’t be more aptly named. These two brothers are brewing the best beer in Shelby County, but more importantly, they’re making connections with the community. The Pruitt brothers have soul and more than a little heart to spare.

Cheers

Take time to stop and

Smell the RosĂŠ Photos by KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA scrumdeliumptious.com

Cheers

Spring is a Time for Roses . . . and Rosé SPRING USHERS IN MANY HAPPY THINGS, HARVESTING FRESH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES, DINING OUT ON PATIOS AND TERRACES AND PARTAKING IN WHAT MANY CONSIDER THE NECTAR OF THE GODS – ROSÉ WINE. by KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA

The perfect indicator of spring in France and the world over, rosé remains a delightful accoutrement to the warming weather full of blooms and the desire to be outside. Here at Á La Carte Alabama magazine, we always try to bring you the best in food coverage, so we took on this ‘hard’ task, to write about the rosé selection at The Wine Loft. When Mike Dunnavant opened The Wine Loft in downtown Birmingham, he had been thinking about A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

wine for nearly a decade. The result has been no short of staggering. The Wine Loft remains the place for anything wine in our iconic food city. “We were about the only place in this area when we opened. Now there are so many spots, and downtown is booming. It’s been a good ride for sure,” Dunnavant said. “Most of our business is centered around events. We host all kinds including receptions, weddings, rehearsal

dinners, parties, and all kinds of celebrations.” The Wine Loft offers drink packages, so you can select the type of wine and the budget. They also offer food from a cheese and fruit platter to filet and crab cakes. Mike has many favorites in the wine world from red to white to rosé and all the colors in between, depending on what he is eating and several other factors. He keeps about eight 31

types of rosé at his wine bar, all selected from tasting shows and buying trips. One thing is for sure, the guy knows wine. “Rosé is the perfect spring wine. It’s very transitional and brings in the fruits of the season. You can taste the strawberry in some, different berries in others,” Mike said. “It just encompasses everything about spring.” If you ask him about the perfect pairing? “You can pair rosé with many things, fruit is one of my favorites. Also, depending on how dry the wine is, you can go with a light cheese like brie, or a Manchego for the super dry rosé,” Mike said. “No 32

matter what the pairing is, rosé wine is in a league by itself. I love watching faces light up after drinking rosé for the first time.” Stella Nystrom is the sommelier at The Wine Loft. She gave us her take on rosé. “In the last few years, rosé has become hugely popular. Now you have dry and super dry rosés that are as good as any red or white,” Nystrom said. “Some of my favorite rosé regions are in Oregon. Their wines are marked with a fabulous grapefruit finish. “Another place making excellent rosé is Champaign in France. I love

their bubbly variety. Some of my favorite pairings would be fish, salmon in particular, chicken, and cheese. But it really depends on the type of food. My school of thought is to match the weight of the food with the weight of the wine.” Stella is a certified sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers – an organization that elevates the quality of beverage service throughout the hospitality industry. As you enjoy this warm weather, add a little rosé to your evening or afternoon. When you start is up to you. It’s five o’clock somewhere! ALACARTE.AL.COM

Cheers

This Queen’s Park Cocktail Will Rock Your World LAURA NEWMAN IS A NATIONALLY ACCLAIMED BARTENDER AND MIXOLOGIST ORIGINALLY FROM NEW YORK. In 2018, she became the first woman to win the coveted U.S. Bartender of the Year Award. Newman has settled down in Birmingham and has opened Queen’s Park in the city’s Loft District with partner Larry Townley. The trendy and popular watering hole features a vast variety of more than 50 classic cocktails. But there’s a way you can make one of them at home. Below is her recipe for their signature drink. THE QUEEN’S PARK COCKTAIL Ingredients • 2 oz rum - ideally Trinidadian rum (Angostura Gold and Zaya are two options available in Alabama) • .75 oz lime juice • .5 oz 2:1 Demerara syrup* • Peychaud’s Bitters, to ﬂoat • 8 mint leaves • 2 mint sprigs • 1 lime wheel

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Instructions Using a straw or long spoon, gently push mint leaves into the bottom of a glass. Combine rum, lime juice, and 2:1 Demerara syrup in a shaker tin with a handful of crushed ice. (Pro tip: Sonic sells this for $2 a bag.) Shake brieﬂy and pour contents of tin into mint-bottomed glass. Top with more crushed ice until glass is ﬁlled to brim, then top with several dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters. Garnish with mint sprigs and lime wheel. *2:1 Demerara syrup Combine 1 cup Sugar in the Raw with 1/2 cup water in a saucepan over medium to high heat. Stir constantly until sugar is completely dissolved. Let cool before using in cocktail. Yields approximately 3/4 cup syrup.

Food for Thought

She’s an Extrovert, He’s an Introvert

THE BALANCING ACT OF DINING OUT TOGETHER by NICOLE ALLSHOUSE

BEING MARRIED TO AN INTROVERT CAN BE HARD. My husband and I have had this conversation more than once, and he would say the opposite, “It’s hard being married to an extrovert.” This is where God’s sense of humor amazes me – opposites attract, right? I knew from the second I met Craig he was shy, reserved, quiet; where I am outgoing, free-spirited and talkative. Ninety percent of the time, this combination works perfectly. We complement each other and respect each other’s need for quiet time and communication. But ten percent of the time, it drives me nuts! And guess when that ten percent is? When we are dining out. I always have a million things to chat about over a meal, where my

husband doesn’t have much to say. He works in the financial field, and due to privacy reasons, he can’t discuss his clients or work. I on the other hand, work in the communication field, so I love hearing other people’s stories and love telling my own. I talk to people at the grocery store, gym, church, pretty much anywhere and everywhere humans gather. That includes when we dine out. Beginning with selecting the wine, you guessed right, it’s all about moi! I choose our wine for the evening. When we dine out, he drinks it and never complains or condones, he just drinks it. If I ask him, he might nod. That’s all I get. This is where I had to learn about

wine, and pairing it with food, and the million other things when it comes to the elixir of life. I always have many funny and interesting stories to share over dinner. Therefore, I end up talking while he listens. I remember, when we first started dating, I would get so mad at him. I would say, “Why are you not talking!?!” And he would say, “I am eating. Isn’t that what we came out to dinner to do? To eat?” To which I would angrily reply, “Dining out is supposed to be an experience. Going out to eat is not about the food, or the eating. It’s about the conversation.” He finds this concept puzzling. “Well, I don’t want cold food that I am paying top dollar for. So, you can talk, and I will eat and listen. Besides

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“

I came to understand dining out is a different experience for different people. I don’t want to talk with food in my mouth.”

“He has always been reserved,” I add.

Some of our biggest fights revolved around this topic. Then over time, I came to understand dining out is a different experience for different people.

It’s all the truth, but sometimes I get tired of having to justify his personality. The world wasn’t intended to be entirely made up of bubbly people like me. That would be horrible – no one would get a word in edgewise.

He enjoys listening to my stories and is so comfortable with me he doesn’t feel the need to fill the air with words. I now understand that listening is his love language. It took me years to figure that out— there is also magic in silence. Then there are the social events, the holidays, the family gatherings, the corporate functions and all the occasions where I end up ‘explaining’ my husband. “He is just shy,” I say. “He is quiet,” I mutter. A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

”

and he listens. Where I dance and he . . . listens. I have tried to tell my husband, “Babe, I have no desire to change you, but you need to talk a little more.

People misunderstand your quiet demeanor as distant. In other words, you can come off snobby, even though I know you are not.”

Also, the world wasn’t intended to be made up of people like him either. I mean, imagine how boring a dinner party would be. Everyone would just gather around the table and stare at each other.

Guess what he says when I tell him this? Nothing. Absolutely nothing. Typical introvert. But he does smile, nod, and blow me a kiss – and I know exactly what that means, without him saying a word.

Maybe that’s why the universe pairs up introverts and extroverts. To add balance, poise and equilibrium; to stabilize this unstable world; to allow people like me to have people like him for a life partner – where I talk, and he listens. Where I sing

“Nice try, babe . . . but it will never happen.” And as far as me selecting our wine to complement our meal, for the rest of my life, I have no problem with that!

FOOD & WINE JOURNALIST HUNTER LEWIS

A World View of Food from

Right Here

This Alabama Journalist Knows a Lot about Food…and Wine AND WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT OUR LOCAL FOOD SCENE by WILLIE CHRIESMAN

HUNTER LEWIS KNOWS FOOD. He writes about it. He cooks it at home. And he is editor-in-chief of one of the leading food publications in the world. Birmingham-based Food & Wine magazine goes far and wide visiting restaurants, featuring recipes, profiling chefs and essentially covering everything its name implies. So Lewis, a North Carolina native, brings a unique perspective when it comes to his assessment of the food scene here in Alabama. “I think what the cooks and the chefs and the farmers are doing in Birmingham and Alabama is creating a world-class cuisine that’s a part of the narrative and the thread of regional Southern American cooking,” he said. Before moving to Birmingham from New York in 2012 to help lead Southern Living and the now-defunct Cooking Light magazines, he admits to not knowing a lot about what was beginning to flourish here. “I came down for a job interview with Southern Living, had never been to Birmingham before, had no preconceived notion, other than I knew Frank Stitt (award-winning chef of Birmingham’s Highlands Bar & Grill) was here because I had his cookbooks and I thought—talk about hubris, talk about ego—‘hey, if a guy like Frank Stitt can come down here, there’s got to be a great food culture and I know I can come here and thrive if Frank can.’ “ He soon learned there was much more to it than that. “Think about the ingredients you can get from the gulf, the ingredients you can get from the mountains.” And he thinks that, combined with the talent of our local chefs and A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

influences from around the region, has fueled the rise of cuisine here. “It’s really fun to grab an Uber and go out to eat and get a nice bottle of wine here in Birmingham right now,” Lewis said. RISING STARS AND CHEFS WORTH WATCHING When asked about some of the rising stars and less-recognized gems of Alabama food, some names immediately come to mind. “I think locally you’re going to continue to see a lot of people rooting for John Hall (of Post Office Pies). I say one of our best cooks in town who doesn’t own a restaurant, Roscoe Hall (Birmingham chef, artist and grandson of Dreamland Bar-B-Que founder John “Big Daddy” Bishop), is a great, great chef. “I think when it comes to (the rest of) Alabama, on the barbecue side, Chris Lilly (of Big Bob Gibson BarB-Q in Decatur) is a master. He’s a great, great cook and really innovative with his recipes. David Bancroft at Acre (in Auburn), up and comer. I think what Johnny Fisher and Bill Briand are doing down on the coast (at Fisher’s) in Orange Beach is pretty awesome and bringing a lot of outside chefs to the coast, hosting them for those big Southern Grace dinners. I think Fisher’s is really progressive and amazing what’s going on there. “So, I think big, small, whether it’s fine dining or casual or barbecue, you’re seeing more of these cooks and more of these chefs tap into local ingredients, celebrate pride-ofplace, talk to the farmers, maybe get the farmers to custom-grow certain things for them based on what they want to cook and honoring their heritage.” WHAT PEOPLE SAY ABOUT THE ALABAMA FOOD SCENE As part of his job, Lewis travels a lot and gets a chance to hear what others are saying about the food scene here. He finds that their interest

often depends on where they are. “I will say from an East Coast perspective, people are really curious about Birmingham. “They know there’s a buzz. They know there’s a new energy that’s coming from this place and they acknowledge it. They don’t just say, ‘what’s that like, living in Birmingham.’ They say, ‘tell me what’s going on there. I want to come down.’ And now more than ever we have chefs who come up and say, ‘hey I want to come down there and cook.’ (He specifically mentioned New York chefs like Marcus Samuelson and J.J. Johnson.) They want to come down and collaborate. They want to cook with cooks down here. They want to see what it’s all about.” And what’s one of the things they’re most curious about? “People always ask me about white sauce. What’s going on with white sauce? How do you make it? What can I put it on?” And when he’s on the West Coast? “That’s where I think there’s still a bit of this bias. They say, ‘well, what’s that like.’ Not in a derogatory way. More in just a lack of curiosity. They don’t want to really know what it’s like. They’ve got a preconceived notion in their head.” And he gets where that attitude comes from. “I didn’t know Alabama well before I came down. We knew Birmingham as this city that had this scar from the Civil Rights Movement and was a city that was still licking its wounds.” But, “that’s not the city that I encountered when I moved down here. This is a city that’s been on the rise for a while and it’s a city that’s proud and is getting prouder. I’m thrilled to be a resident of Birmingham and call it home.”

Keep on

Truckin' 32 Photos by KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA

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A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

Keep on Truckin'

From Wheels to Pub

LITTLE LONDON by SUSAN PRUITT

SPRING IS THE TIME FOR FRESH NEW BEGINNINGS, FOR EATING OUT, AND FOR LITTLE LONDON KITCHEN, BIRMINGHAM'S BELOVED BRITISH FOOD TRUCK.

Embarking on an exciting new journey, owners Bea and Matthew Morrissette have decided to transition from a fabulous food truck to a proper pub in Homewood. Little London food truck has introduced Birmingham to British comfort food and a wide variety of London's ethnic street food. Standard dishes include beef and vegetable curry pie, fish and chips, sausage rolls and bread pudding. 40

Exciting new additions feature vegetable massaman, Welsh rarebit, savory Yorkshire pudding and scotch eggs – a deep fried whole boiled egg wrapped in Cumberland sausage. Seriously, why did the South not invent this first? Bea Morrissette, who grew up in London, answers a few questions regarding the food truck to pub transition. WHAT WILL BECOME OF THE DUCHESS (THE DOUBLE DECKER MASCOT THAT CAME ALL THE WAY FROM ENGLAND) WITH THE OPENING OF THE NEW PUB?

original 1968 engine. She will make special appearances at events. LITTLE LONDON FOOD TRUCK HAS HOSTED SEVERAL FUN EVENTS IN BIRMINGHAM, INCLUDING THE GREAT BRITISH BASH (AT THE BIRMINGHAM BOTANICAL GARDENS) AND HARRY POTTER TRIVIA NIGHTS. DO YOU PLAN ON CONTINUING THESE EVENTS?

We love doing events. For example, we will hold cooking classes and supper clubs, where we feed everyone a cuisine from London’s vibrant food scene family banquet-style.

The Duchess will primarily be in front of the pub. She’s getting a little tired with her ALACARTE.AL.COM

ROAMINGHUNGER.COM

The new menu will be larger and feature more international specials. We will continue with our principles: fresh ingredients, that are local where possible, prepared with love. BEA, YOU HAVE MENTIONED THE WIDE VARIETY OF MULTICULTURAL STREET FOODS IN LONDON. WHAT ARE A FEW OF YOUR FAVORITES, AND DO YOU PLAN ON INCORPORATING THESE INTO YOUR MENU? I will begin with favorites from my own cultural roots. We will feature Filipino barbecue and noodle dishes (pancit) and Caribbean dishes from Trinidad. We will feature a curry. That is Britain’s most popular dish.

We will also collaborate with the breweries on larger events. Cahaba Brewing Company is our partner for our large trivia events. We have discussed doing events along Lord of The Rings, Doctor Who, and Star Wars! And yes, we will be having another British Bash! HOW WILL THE NEW MENU COMPARE TO THE FOOD TRUCK MENU?

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WHAT ARE SOME SIMILARITIES BETWEEN BRITISH AND SOUTHERN CULTURE? I would say the sense of community and hospitality is very similar. I’ve never found it hard to find a helping hand in Birmingham. One of the other main similarities is that this city loves its food! That first 16-hour smoked brisket I had – I fell in love as that first bite melted away! TILLY, YOUR ADORABLE DALMATIAN FUR BABY, LOVES TO GREET CUSTOMERS AT THE FOOD TRUCK. WILL TILLY BE MAKING ANY APPEARANCES AT THE NEW PUB?

Our Tilly had a great time trucking with us. Since it’s been colder, she’s stayed at home and lets us know how she feels about that. Unfortunately, due to regulations, Tilly won’t be allowed inside the pub, but we will have lots of Tilly reminders in the decor. IF YOU ARE HAVING A BAD DAY, WHAT IS YOUR GO-TO BRITISH COMFORT MEAL? Roast dinner with Yorkshire pudding and lashings of gravy. I love a good roasted chicken with lemon, thyme, rosemary and garlic. All the trimmings of sticky roasted parsnips and carrots, steamed peas and swede (rutabaga), sage and onion stuffing. Of course, mashed potatoes, but I do love a good roasted spud (potato) that’s crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. It’s a big hug on a plate. I believe the most underrated meal is the ‘meat and three.’ When done right I find it magically satisfying. I, for one, cannot contain my excitement that Birmingham will finally have its first British pub. Bea and Matthew Morrissette cook from the heart and their infectious enthusiasm creates a warm sense of community in our city.

On the Side

Moss Rock Taco & Tequila Appetizers Serve as the Perfect Sides by BECKY DENSON

LOOKING FOR A RELAXING, QUIET SPOT AFTER A LONG WEEK AT WORK?

Head to The Preserve in Hoover and check out Moss Rock Taco & Tequila. On my most recent visit, I sat at the bar with friends sharing drinks and appetizers. Adjacent to its Italian sister restaurant, Vecchia’s, Moss Rock Taco & Tequila is a friendly place within The Preserve community, not far from walking trails and rock climbing in Hoover’s own nature preserve. With outside seating and ample bar space, it’s an attractive option for date night or for just hanging out. Moss Rock Taco & Tequila’s seating options make it a great spot for all types of diners: singles at the spacious bar, large groups in one section A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

and small parties scattered around. I especially like the outside porch area, furnished with heaters for those chilly evenings.

Having whet our appetites with the chips and salsa sampler, we decided to try the Chicken Chimi Rolls which seemed perfect for sharing.

We quickly made friends with our bartender, who recommended a sampling of salsas and chips from their First Bites menu. Dips included fire-roasted tomato salsa, queso, tomatillo salsa verde, guacamole and pineapple mango salsa. We dug in greedily, each person finding a favorite. As always, I was drawn to the queso, which had just a hint of a kick but was more savory than spicy. My husband liked the fire-roasted tomato salsa best, commenting on the pleasing, but not overpowering smokiness.

The Chicken Chimi Rolls were delightful crunchy concoctions stuffed with black beans, corn, onions, cheddar, and adobe chicken. Sweet and just a little spicy, they make the perfect snack to go along with after work drinks.

Our friend, Karim, raved about the pineapple mango salsa which he found both sweet and spicy. We quickly devoured these three as well as the guacamole and tomatillo salsa verde. We found this sampler a healthy choice, perfect for sharing with friends who might be able to tolerate different levels of spiciness. It’s also a great choice for vegetarians.

If after all of that you’re still hungry, consider the Moss Hogg Burger (my husband did). It’s a beef and pork blend patty smothered in Manchego cheese with pico de gallo and adobe sauce. I asked him how it was, and he grunted his approval, his mouth too full to give a clear answer. By the time we’d finished our food and had a few more drinks, we were full and decided to take a stroll along the paved trail that outlines The Preserve neighborhood. Overall, Moss Rock Taco & Tequila should move to the top spot on your list for after work drinks and appetizers.

Rethinking the Concept of

“Cheat Foods”

To Your Health

It’s Not Cheating, It’s Eating by BETH KITCHIN

“IS IT OKAY TO ‘CHEAT’ ON YOUR DIET?” “WHAT ARE THE BEST ‘CHEAT’ FOODS?” “WHEN CAN YOU ‘CHEAT’ AND HOW OFTEN?” “WHAT ABOUT CHEAT DAYS? CAN I CHEAT FOR THE WHOLE DAY?”

When I see discussions like this on social media and diet website discussions, I cringe. I cringe because I hate the whole idea of ‘cheat’ foods and ‘cheating’ on your diet. The underlying idea of ‘cheat foods’ is to eat foods that are not on your diet as a way to treat yourself. Some rigid nutritionistas say you should never cheat at all. Unless you have a specific condition like celiac disease or a food allergy, this level of dietary discipline is not only unnecessary for physical health, it can be dangerous to your psychological health. Why? The Abstinence Violation Effect or ‘AVE’ is why. Here’s how the AVE (sometimes appropriately called the Eff-It Phenomenon) works. You’ve started a diet that clearly defines foods you can eat and foods you can’t eat. You’ve been disciplined for the past few weeks, strictly followed the diet and lost a few pounds. You’re feeling pretty good. Then you come home after a stressful day at work and your spouse has left a bag of Oreo cookies out on the table. It’s

open. You love Oreo cookies. Oreo cookies are forbidden. You eat one. You think – “Oh no. Oreo cookies are not on my diet! I broke the rules. Oreo cookies are bad. I am bad. I’ve blown my diet. I might as well eat the whole bag.” And then you eat the whole bag – or at least half. Now that scenario may sound ridiculous, but it’s not. Early in my career I worked for a liquid weight loss program and I saw the AVE in action more than a few times. The scenario I describe here is an exact retelling of one of my patient’s experiences. When you set up an ‘abstinence’ – something you must not have or do – and then violate that abstinence, it can set off a cascade of negative thoughts, feelings and actions in some people. The thoughts are usually inaccurate. Eating an Oreo does not make you a bad person or ruin your diet. It’s only 50 calories. But if you’ve been told that Oreo cookies are bad and that you should never eat even one, then you can see how this trip down the shame spiral happens. This is why I am not a fan of restrictive diets. In susceptible people, they can cause emotional distress and binge eating. This is where ‘cheat foods’ or ‘cheat days’ come in. Couldn’t this controlled ‘cheating’ actually derail the AVE by showing people that they can have ‘bad’ foods? Maybe. But

do I really want to tell people they are ‘cheating’ because they eat some French fries? Why do we have to attach a negative connotation such as ‘cheating’ to doing something that is normal and pleasurable? Attaching virtue and morality to the food we eat is a heavy load to bear and may drive you to hide in the closet with shame while eating a piece of cake. What’s a better approach than ‘cheat foods’? A change of mindset. Let’s stop viewing foods as ‘good’ or ‘bad.’ Defining some foods as ‘bad’ and some foods as ‘good’ is a false dichotomy. There is no single food that will kill you. There is no single food that will cure you. Of course, there are certain groups of foods that we should eat more of because they are healthy and (hopefully) taste good. Of course, we should cut back on super sweet drinks and fried foods. But including foods you like every day as a normal part of your eating pattern is mentally healthy, psychologically adaptive and may actually decrease overeating that food when the flood gates of your ‘cheat day’ open wide. Learning to share a dessert, eat just one cookie or choosing a kid’s size ice cream without the guilt of violating your vow of abstinence is a learned behavior. Changing how we think about foods is the first step in moving towards eating that is both physically and mentally healthy.

Editor's note: Beth Kitchin, PhD, RDN is assistant professor and Director of Media & Community Engagement for the Department of Nutrition Sciences at the University of Alabama at Birmingham (UAB).

A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

It's not easy being Vegan

in Alabama

Food for Thought

Living a Vegetarian Lifestyle Can Be a Challenge by ELIYANA ISRAEL

ALABAMA – HOME OF THE BUTTERED BISCUITS, THE FATTEST FRIED CHICKEN AND WHATEVER ELSE YOU CAN IMAGINE THAT'S BEEN SMOTHERED IN GRAVY.

The air pumps out that fresh dough smell from Dave's Pizza in Homewood or the sweet barbequed smoke at Saw's in Avondale and you're just – hungry. If you're vegan, it can get pretty tormenting. As a Birmingham native, I'm all too familiar with the cuisine of the area. What I'm not too familiar with is the vegan scene. I've recently decided I'd subscribe to healthier eating habits and ditching animal products was my first good idea. I can't say I choose vegan everyday, but I could if Birmingham wasn't a vegan dead zone! In 2020, Birmingham still has its vegan community begging for more. There is hardly a single, fully vegan restaurant in the city. If you want a total plant-based restaurant, you'll have to open one up yourself. The other option is dining in a restaurant that offers vegan meals, usually fried in the same oil as some formerly clucking chicken or squirming sea creature. As for plant-based grocery stores? Not a chance. I'm only speaking for myself here, but I would love a place to consistently purchase vegan groceries. Holistic health is the key to long life, but I don't guess the city of Birmingham got the memo. I'm struggling out here. Of course, there are many grocery stores that stock about as much vegan product as the Jewish or Hispanic international sections (which are also lacking), but one notable place to buy and eat vegan meals is in the heart of

the Southside. Golden Temple claims to be “Birmingham's only exclusively vegetarian restaurant,” but patrons can make all of the meals vegan to order. Very cool, Golden Temple. Very cool. If you told me to suggest another restaurant with this flexibility, I wouldn't know where to begin. Another caveat of veganism is vegan clothing and shoes. For many, the goal is to live a cruelty-free lifestyle. “Cruelty-free” just means that products, whether for consumption, application or wear, have not harmed animals in any way. For food, that means animals weren't killed to produce the meal. For cosmetics, cruelty-free guarantees that

animals weren't tested on or used in experiments. Clothes and shoes that have the cruelty-free stamp of approval don't use animal products (like traditional cow leather) either. For me, veganism is primarily about taking good care of my diet and getting away from the foods that clog me up and bog me down. And, according to some health experts, vegan diets offer a vast range of health benefits from lowering blood sugar levels to helping protect against certain cancers. But for many, veganism is about leaving the smallest mark on the Earth as possible. It can be tough to be vegan around here. Alabama vegans deserve more!

Editor's note: If you want information on shopping vegan, visit PETA's guide at peta.org/living/personal-care-fashion/shop-vegan-clothingcompassionate-shopping-guide and check out the updated Cruelty Free Kitty's list of the best vegan brands at https://www.crueltyfreekitty. com/list-of-cruelty-free-brands/. 66

ALACARTE.AL.COM

Carving a Living by Restoring the Past by WILLIE CHRIESMAN

CHRIS RICHARDSON HAS AN AXE TO GRIND. In fact, he has a lot of axes to grind. It’s his business. “I have always been interested in the idea of heating with wood, cooking with wood and older methods. It started with my desire to play with the wood,” Richardson said. Over the years, that interest has grown into a passion for restoring a craftsmanship of the past. “You can get an axe from Home Depot for 20 bucks, but it will not last very long,” he told me. “That led me to an exploration of this world of vintage tool restoration.” This passion has turned A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

a pastime into a business. Richardson Axe Works restores axes and other sharp tools to the state of a century ago, a time when the craft produced items much different from today. “The steel is different between the two time periods. There were people handcrafting these tools versus machines turning out thousands at a time. There was care and precision that is not represented in the types of tools we see today,” Richardson explained. It's a care and precision the Hoover resident puts into every piece he produces. The process of tooling these beauties can be intense. “It starts with finding the old

tools, then digging through junk piles and going to yard sales and stopping at antique shops on road trips with my wife and kids,” Richardson said. The process of working with these tools varies greatly. “Step one is finding the old stuff to work with. Each one is different and no two end up the same or are created in the same way. “Then, it’s custom-fitted to a hickory handle, which I give a unique look. The axe is then soaked in a solution to seal the handle, enrich it, moisturize it and give it a rich color,” Richardson said. For his axes, he only uses hickory because it is plentiful, and it’s a superior mate51

rial with a great deal of strength and flexibility. But axes are just the beginning of the tool restoration work for Richardson. “During my travels and when I’m looking for axes, I noticed there were lots of vintage cleavers still around, and the idea is the same. There’s a reason a cleaver made a hundred years ago is still around. That piqued my interest,” Richardson revealed. “My process with a cleaver is similar to the work I do with the axes. I’m still finding the raw material and the vintage pieces. Then I strip back the metal until it’s beautiful and usable. Lastly I custom fit the handles.” Richardson takes a different approach to the wood for his kitchen tools: “I use exotic woods for my cleavers. The crazier the better, the more expensive the better. They’re striking when you see them. I’m using bocote, another name for a Mexican ebony, which has a beautiful dark grain. Also, granadillo wood is striking.” But it’s about more than making something beautiful, Richardson explains. “Every axe I make is fully functional. It’s absolutely gorgeous, but if you want to use it to chop wood with, it’s going to be the best axe you’ve ever used. I take the same 52

approach with every cleaver I make. They’re razor-sharp and nothing brings me more joy than when someone sends me a picture using these tools.” Richardson has achieved widespread attention for his craftsmanship, including in Garden & Gun magazine as an honorable mention for the 2018 Made in the South Awards. Prices for the fine artisanal pieces vary. “You can spend around $200 to $250, which isn’t that expensive in the high-end knife culture,” Richard-

son said. “The full-size cleavers start around $300 and go up from there based on how rare or any special requests. I typically live in the $300 to $400 range, but I’ve done cleavers that are $750 and up.” For Richardson, it’s mainly about restoring 20th century craftsmanship to a 21st century world. Dealing with the two worlds is something this craftsman loves: “It can be an adventure, but it’s something that I enjoy and appreciate.” ALACARTE.AL.COM

My Favorite Food

Flavor of Music

ERIC ESSIX REFLECTS ON MUSICAL AND CULINARY NOTES by WILLIE CHRIESMAN

JAZZ MUSICIAN ERIC ESSIX IS A MAN OF MANY MUSICAL AND CULINARY TASTES. THE BIRMINGHAM-BORN GUITARIST HAS 25 ALBUMS TO HIS CREDIT. WHILE JAZZ IS THE BACKBONE OF ALL OF THEM, THEY HAVE ALSO BEEN INFLUENCED BY OTHER GENRES SUCH AS POP, R&B AND GOSPEL. BUT HIS ECLECTIC MUSICAL SENSIBILITIES DON’T END THERE. Essix is the director of programming for UAB’s Alys Stephens Center for the Performing Arts. He has booked classical music great Yo-Yo Ma, country music’s The Gatlin Brothers, singer/actress Patti LaBelle, the late Anthony Bourdain, and even actor Al Pacino. As far as food goes, Essix is quite the aficionado. We asked him a few questions around the topics of food and music. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE THING TO EAT? My favorite dish would be something sweet. Bread pudding rises to the top. I know that sounds ordinary and typical, but I’ve tried bread pudding in different cities, and I rank them.

BREAD PUDDING

When I’m out of town and try bread pudding, they don’t measure up to what I’m used to here in Alabama. My favorite bread pudding is right here in Birmingham at John’s City Diner. They have a white chocolate bread pudding that’s my absolute favorite. A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

Miles Geek

Flavor of Music ERIC ESSIX REFLECTS ON MUSICAL AND CULINARY NOTES WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE MEAL? My favorite meal would be what I grew up eating in Birmingham. Traditional Southern food like macaroni and cheese and collard greens and fried chicken. I’m a healthier eater now, but I still love the foods of my childhood. When I can splurge and have something that’s fun and some comfort food, it always goes back to those foods. WHAT’S YOUR FOOD EXPERIENCE LIKE WHEN YOU’RE TOURING? Being on tour and eating is always a challenge. It used to be difficult because the fast food places didn’t cater to a vegetarian diet. So, I began to integrate chicken and fish back into my diet. When I travel abroad, it’s interesting to sample different cuisines and dishes. I’ve tried some things like Hungarian goulash and other dishes in India without knowing what they were. I loved the food in India. I may have gained about five pounds in the week’s time I spent over there. WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE FOOD MEMORY? There’s an old saying, ‘It’s not what you eat, but with whom you eat.’ For me, it’s always been family and friends. When I think about my favorite meals, I think about my family around the table when I was growing up. My mom, uncles, aunts, grandmothers, grandfathers. Those times for me, especially during holidays like Thanksgiving, would be my favorite memories of sharing a big meal and enjoying my family.

FRIED CHICKEN

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INDIAN FOOD

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PEANUT BUTTER & CELERY

HOLIDAY DINNER

Getty Images

DO YOU SEE A CONNECTION BETWEEN MUSIC AND FOOD? I think music and food go hand-in-hand. Think about blues and barbecue, think about jazz and wine and cheese. I look at food and music as a joint experience. Food now is considered an art. Chefs are artists just like musicians or painters in creating an experience for people. We perform at restaurants and outdoor events occasionally. You don’t go to a festival without seeing food trucks. I think the experience of both food and music is often intertwined. Editor's note: Eric’s most recent works include the album More and the anthology Moments. They’re available on iTunes, Spotify, Amazon or wherever music is sold. Find out more about him and his music at www.ericessix.net. A Fresh Take On Alabama Food & Drink

Thanks

and Giving

Thanks & Giving

Jones Valley Teaching Farm is Growing Food and People Article and photos by KARIM SHAMSI-BASHA

YOU SEE THE USUAL THINGS AROUND ANY HIGH SCHOOL IN THE U.S.A. – FROM PLAYGROUNDS TO LOTS OF CONCRETE TO MILES OF PARKING LOTS FILLED WITH CARS. WHAT YOU NEVER SEE IS A PATCH OF COLLARD GREENS! But that is what you will find behind Woodlawn High School in Birmingham. Not only collard greens, but a greenhouse filled with all kinds of produce, as well as other items of goodness growing everywhere you look.

Woodlawn High School is one of 13 in the Birmingham area that have partnered with Jones Valley Teaching Farm to grow veggies and other produce on their properties. Kelly Baker is an instructor with the nonprofit and the person in charge of this partnership. She walked me around and told me about this ingenious idea. “Jones Valley Teaching Farm in Woodlawn was built four years ago; students were involved in the design process. We work with the students and we collaborate with the teach-

ers and tie their lessons to the farm. So, if a biology class is learning about plant genetics and cross pollination, we take the students into the green house and show them how to do just that,” Baker said. Some of the students were working in the greenhouse. Watching them plant and care for tiny blooms gives you the feeling they know what they are doing. “We work with the same group of students and get to know them on a deeper level. The ultimate purpose of the farm, in addition to ALACARTE.AL.COM

growing food and providing for the community, is to give the students professional development skills they can take with them after they graduate. Things like communication, being punctual and caring about what you do,” Baker said.

pre-K-12 educational experience. We build vibrant, student-centered Teaching Farms on school campuses to provide an environment where young people can learn, create, explore, and grow a healthy future for themselves and their community.”

The Jones Valley Teaching Farm at Woodlawn High School sells its products beginning in April. All the money goes back to the farm to continue its mission:

“I love that we grow food and people,” said student Avant Clayborn. “I wasn’t such a good person when I joined. I did some bad things. After working here for a while, I stopped being bad. This made a huge difference in my life. I see that everything you do has a consequence. I love working here. We watch stuff grow.

“Jones Valley Teaching Farm uses the power of growing food to transform and improve a young person’s 58

It’s like you’re a parent.” Another student, Destiny NelsonMiles, had a slightly different take: “I like that we can explore ourselves and grow. We also get to do a few fun activities and learn new experiences. My favorite part is making friends and talking to them and getting advice. I wasn’t a relationship person, but now I have lots of friends.” That little farm behind Woodlawn High School not only grows food. It also grows students into responsible, productive members of our society. ALACARTE.AL.COM

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