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ISSUE TWO 2014 DEUXIÈME EDITION 2014
Emerging market for new colourants Marché émergeant pour de nouveaux colorants
Spotlight on Iran New ‘cutting’ edge methods rule the roost ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 review Pleins feux sur l’Iran De nouvelles méthodes de coupe font la loi ITMA + CITME 2014 is the combination of two high-quality brands
Revue d’ITMA Asie et CITME 2014
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TEXTILE
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CONTENTS Developments
4
News of recent textile projects, markets, contracts and events
Développements
4
Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats
Spotlight on Iran
6
Iran needs more textile business
Pleins feux sur l’Iran
6
L’Iran a besoin de plus d’affaires textiles
Piracy
7
Ghana tackles counterfeiting with an iron hand
Contrefaçon
7
Ghana aborde la contrefaçon d’une main en fer
Colourants
12
World market sees emergence of new dyes and auxiliaries
ITMA Asia + CITME 2014
Colorants
12
Le marché mondial voit l’émergence de nouveaux colorants et auxiliaries
16
China gears up for the fourth edition
L’ITMA Asie + CITME 2014
16
La Chine se prépare pour la quatrième édition
Apparel Africa
20
New ‘cutting’ edge methods rule the roost
Revue d’Habillement
20
De nouvelles méthodes de coupe font la loi
Cover: New colourants Inset: ITMA Asia + CITME 2014
Couverture: Nouveaux colorants Inset: L’ITMA Asie + CITME 2014
Cover photo: courtesy www.wanderingbluesky.wordpress.com
Cover photo: courtesy www.wanderingbluesky.wordpress.com
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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
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TEXTILE NEWS Kenya to set up textile city in to woo investors in the country KENYA HAS PLANNED to set up a textile city in Athi River in a move to attract investments, Adan Mohammed, industrialisation cabinet secretary, said. The ministry, he said, targets to attract at least 100 textile investment firms in the city and create more than 200,000 sustainable textile jobs by December 2016. Such firms will be expected to take up investment opportunities relating to cotton ginning and yarn spinning, manufacture of textile fabrics and home fabrics, manufacture of apparel and manufacture of garment accessories, and labels among other ventures, Daily Nation reported. The contribution of manufacturing to GDP last year dropped to an all time low of 8.9 per cent from 9.5 per cent the previous year as ICT, construction and financial services expanded at a faster pace. With a combined annual revenue of more than US$25bn, Mohammed confirmed that plans for the establishment of a textile city are now at an advanced stage.
TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER May 2014 13 - 15
19 - 22
UGANDA’S COTTON EXPORTS from Uganda are set to increase once the recommendations by trade ministers in Bali’s ninth ministerial conference are implemented. One of the recommendations is to help revive the cotton sector through funding to increase production to benefit from the market from List Developed Countries (LDC), members of the World Trade Organization (WTO). Amelia Kyambadde, minister of trade, industry and cooperatives, said that there have been restrictions in the cotton sector when it comes to exporting as result of decline in quality and production. “In this meeting ministers agreed that since the sector in Uganda would be supported if possible with a fund to improve the production capacity and quality controls to gain a guaranteed market among LDC members and beyond,’ added Kyambadde.
20 - 23
DEDICATED TO IMPROVING African cotton, textile and apparel trade, ORIGIN AFRICA will take place in Nairobi, Kenya, starting 10 November 2014. The event involves collaboration with producers across the cotton value chain from farm to fashion including accessories suppliers, home textile and décor to develop, guide and promote African trade. It will highlight the creativity and innovation of the African cotton, textile and clothing industries, with a specific focus on business, trade and investment — regional and international — capturing the spirit, style and innovation of modern Africa, African Cotton & Textile Industries Federation said. The show is touted as the largest cotton, textile and apparel event in the region and is profiled to raise awareness of Africa as a sourcing destination. ORIGIN AFRICA will encompass a trade expo, seminars, B2B meetings and a fashion show.
4
INDEX 2014
Dubai, UAE
FESPA Digital 2014
Munich, Germany
www.fespa.com
June 2014 16 - 20
ITMA Asia + CITME 2014
Shanghai, China
www.cematex.org
18 - 20
Source Africa
Cape Town, South Africa
www.sourceafrica.co.za
19 - 24
Heimtextil India
New Delhi, India
www.heimtextil.in
July 2014 FESPA Africa 2014
Johannesburg, South Africa
www.fespa.com
10 - 12
Intertextile Pavilion Shenzhen 2014
Shenzhen, China
www.messefrankfurt.com
August 2014 27 - 29
Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles
Shanghai, China
www.messefrankfurt.com.hk
September 2014 24 - 26
Cinte Techtextil China
Shanghai, China
www.techtextilchina.com
October 2014 16 - 19
OTM 2014
Gaziantep, Turkey
www.otm2014.com
21 - 24
IGATEX Pakistan 2014
Lahore, Pakistan
www.igatex.pk
November 2014 3-4
ORIGIN AFRICA set to take place in November in Kenya
Atlanta, USA
www.indexexhibition.com
2-4
Uganda set to increase cotton exports after Bali meet
Texprocess Americas 2014 www.texprocessamericas.com
International Textile Fair Dubai
Dubai, UAE
www.internationaltextilefair.com
4-6
Texworld Istanbul
Istanbul, Turkey
www.messefrankfurt.com
10 - 12
ORIGIN AFRICA
Nairobi, Kenya
www.originafrica.org
11 - 13
JITAC European Textile Fair
Tokyo, Japan
www.jitac.jp
May 2015 5-7
Techtextil 2015
Frankfurt, Germany
www.techtextil.messefrankfurt.com
Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy (Commercial Office) of the country in question. Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
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TEXTILE NEWS South African textile body welcomes new law on minimum wages THE SOUTHERN AFRICAN Clothing and Textile Workers Union (SACTWU) has welcomed the new agreement on increase of minimum wages for the domestic clothing manufacturing industry. The new agreement was signed by labour minister Mildred Oliphant. It sets out terms and conditions of employment for the clothing industry including minimum wage levels. The agreement proposes harsh penalties for non-compliance. The minimum wage levels set out in the new agreement are applicable to the whole of the clothing manufacturing industry in South Africa. Chris Gina, deputy general secretary of SACTWU, said that there will be a different minimum weekly wage that clothing workers will get in big cities and non-metropolitan areas. “We have a minimum that covers the employers in areas so called ‘former homeland areas’, we call them non metros. The minimum rate there is US$60.48 per week in the urban areas the minimum is actually US$84.52.” Gina added that the employers who break the law will be prosecuted. The deputy secretary general has singled out KwaZulu-Natal as one of the province which does not comply to the rule. He said penalties include liquidation of a company that fails to adhere to the new agreement. “Once the agreement is promulgated the bargaining council has got clear powers that if you are not adhering to minimum standards the inspector can go to any of these companies and inspect and actually issue an order of prosecution for that company and that company can even be liquidated.” Some clothing factory workers claim that they are the lowest paid. Mymoena Williams has been working in the clothing and textile industry for 35 years and, says that the new deal will be a step in the right direction. “It could help sustain workers livelihood though the ideal agreement and probably they could earn more money but under the circumstances it enables workers to be protected. So I think it’s a good thing that the agreement has been signed,” Williams stated.
UK to introduce Africa’s Bt cotton in its market UK HAS ANNOUNCED that it has plans to introduce Bt cotton from various African countries in its market. Owen Paterson, UK’s secretary of state for environment, food and rural affairs, said in London that adopting genetically engineered cotton (Bt cotton) by farmers in most countries is inevitable. Addressing a group of Bioscience for Farming in Africa fellowship journalists in April, Paterson added that there Owen Paterson are more benefits to Bt cotton cultivation, especially among poor smallholder farmers. “GM cotton is a real success story. More than two thirds of global cotton production is now GM based, so it's likely that the majority of you in this room are wearing clothes made from GM crops,” the UK official said. “Why should we deny our local farmers benefits of Bt cotton, this is not a crop and already we are wearing clothes made from Bt cotton,” argued Tanzania’s water and irrigation minister Jumanne Maghembe. Maghembe said this while presiding as a panelist at an Africa Green Revolution Forum (AGRF) on how technology can change growth of agriculture that genetic engineering is one way of increasing productivity and boosting incomes for local farmers. “Cotton is not a food crop. Why don’t we start with that so that we increase yields and help farmers earn more from this crop?” Maghembe added. Statistics show that about 40 per cent of all Tanzanians rely directly or indirectly on the cotton industry most of which are smallholder farmers.
Ethiopian textile exports earn US$75.28 million in eight months THE ETHIOPIAN TEXTILE Industry Development Institute has revealed that it has earned US$75.28 mn from exports in the first eight months of the fiscal year from the international market. According to the institute, this year’s export performance surged by US$9.9mn (15.1 per cent) from the same reported period of the previous year. The director of Corporate Communication Directorate of the Institute, Banteyihun Gessesse, told The Reporter that this year‘s achievement for the growth in export performance is mainly attributed to the volume and quality of the products of the textile-manufacturing sector. According to Banteyihun, most of the products were sent to the international market like Europe, US, Asia and Africa. Among several local and foreign-owned companies engaged in the production of textile, the Turkish textile giant Ayka Addis took the lion’s share of the already earned US$75.28mn. The export components mainly consisted of untailored garments, spine and woven, tailored garments and woven products. In a similar development, another Turkish giant textile manufacturer, Akber, is undertaking preparation activities to establish the biggest textile plant with a total initial capital amounting to
The new factory is also expected to create from 9,000 to 10,000 jobs
US$175mn in Ejere town. The new factory is also expected to create from 9,000 to 10,000 jobs, bigger than any operating textile factory in the nation. So far the highest has been Ayka Addis that has been offering around 7,000 jobs. Upon completing the construction of the plant and becoming operational in the next three years, the company expects to make its annual production capacity worth US$90mn. It was further learnt that the company is currently undertaking a project study and designing that will enable it to secure loans from the Development Bank of Ethiopia (DBE). “The coming of such big companies to Ethiopia signals a glimmer of hope in the country’s textile sector,” Banteyihun added.
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
African Union to push US for renewal of AGOA THE AFRICAN UNION has urged member countries to push US for the extension of the Africa Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) for the next 15 years inorder to enable them maximise benefits through trade relations. Fatima Haram, AU’s commissioner for trade and industry, said that there should be renewed efforts to strengthen Africa’s link with AGOA to continue their efforts to open their economies and build free markets. Meanwhile, the South African government has said that it will consider giving some US producers the same access to the local market as the EU. Trade and industry minister Rob Davies said that he believes US President Barack Obama to make this proposal at the first US-Africa summit in August 2014. AGOA offers most African countries duty-free access to the US market for most of their goods.
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SPOTLIGHT ON IRAN
Iran needs more textile business The Middle East country is back on track with its textiles export, but a lot needs to be done in terms of industrialisation in order to generate more revenue in Iran
I
RAN IS BACK with new hope that the longestablished but struggling textile and clothing industries will be part of an international business package designed to bring the Islamic Republic back in out of the cold. It all depends on what happens when the “sanctions truce”, signed in Switzerland last November and much encouraged by the European Union amongst others, many of them machinery exporters, runs out later this year. Most are agreed that the new face of Iran — 2013-elected President Hassan Rouhani — is a welcome newcomer indeed. The first-time appearance of a new-era Iranian leader at this year’s World Economic Forum could have been a start; he has already spoken directly, but briefly, with the US President Barack Obama. The Iranian Revolution occurred back in 1979 and crippling international business sanctions have been in place since 1996. The capital and equipment starved textile and clothing industries have been victims of this. These centuries-old activities used to employ in excess of half a million, easily the largest non-oil sector of manufacturing in the 20th century. The muchreduced total now is unknown, but large numbers still work in the spinning and weaving sectors in particular, working with one of the world’s widest ranges of local natural fibres, including silk. Many are employed on a cottage, i.e. very small scale, basis – in premium-grade carpet production especially. If anything the economic sanctions have increased the desirability and therefore international trading value of these magnificent furnishings, including in the Gulf. However all segments of the textile industries are crippled by the poor quality and quantity of mechanical equipment that is currently available, the absence of so much vitally needed foreign direct investment (FDI), and the many opportunities that are easily found in the porous and sometimes troubled border areas to smuggle in fabrics and clothing of all types. Meanwhile the currency remains weak, raising the local cost of legitimate imports. The long-running problems in nearby Syria undoubtedly confound the situation because of Iran’s alleged involvement in the eastern Mediterranean; this year’s alarming developments
6
Carpet-weaving is undoubtedly one of the most distinguished manifestations of the Persian culture and art, and dates back to ancient Persia
A much healthier textile and clothing sector is urgently needed to boost the battered and reduced manufacturing economy in Ukraine have actually brought some unexpected hope because there is now even more international demand for Iran’s gas which for so long has been denied to most of the world. Iran is believed to have lost over US$25bn in sanctions-blocked oil exports alone last year. A much healthier textile and clothing sector is urgently needed to boost the battered and reduced manufacturing economy. Substantial domestic demand for many basic products is undoubtedly there, but not the means of meeting most of it. To find out what’s going on in textile trade we have to turn to the WTO’s International Trade Statistics 2013, unfortunately the figures reveal nothing of Iran’s official international clothing business, which is believed to be very small anyway. Textile exports have roughly doubled since 1990, reaching US$1,097mn in 2012. This has been well below the rate of growth in international world business overall, although there was a very encouraging 17 per cent year-onyear increase in 2012. Textile imports have been maintained more or less at a stable level well below this over the last three years. But the real tragedy is that Iran has failed to benefit almost completely from the surge in international clothing sales since MFA quotas were abandoned. Globally, this has more than doubled since the beginning of
the millennium, and is a much more lucrative business than unfinished textiles. Finding updated information about the industries from within Iran is not easy. The best source seems to be the official Trade Promotion Organisation, which has a special department (+9821 2266-4010 telephone or -2566 fax) dealing with business with African and Arabic-speaking countries. The TPO site provides information about various exporters and business directories, including a useful small-business section. It lists trade fairs comprehensively too. The Association of Iranian Textile Industries acts on behalf of some 400 individual businesses, but, contact details apart, little information about the sector’s activities can be obtained directly from the English-language section. The principal trade fair to visit this year will undoubtedly be Irantex 2014, which covers all products including leather and textile machinery (17-20 November). Next year it will be the 3rd Iranian Apparel Specialist Fair (21-24 February 2015). The thriving carpet sector seems to arrange its principal exhibitions independently. The main handmade show runs from 23-29 August, and its machine-made equivalent from 6-9 September. There are also various regional carpet shows. The Textile Exporters Association website is also worth a look. ❑ www.wto.org/statistics www.tpo.ir http://aiti.org.ir www.itema.ir
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
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PIRACY
Ghana tackles counterfeiting with an iron hand Government measures to protect indigenous industry has also led to increased unemployment and there is a need to come up with alternate measures for citizens immediately to curb the smuggling
T
HE DECISION BY Ghana to suspend the operations of a task force it set up to check counterfeiting, piracy and smuggling of textile prints into the country has not gone down well with industry operators, who have described the action as paying lip service to their quest for action to check the activities of smugglers and pirates who have virtually collapsed the local industry rendering many citizens unemployed and investors wringing their hands in anguish over their losses. Members of the task force included the National Security Council, Ghana Union of Traders (GUTA) and the Ghana National Chamber of Commerce and Industries (GNCCI), which was officially inaugurated in August 2010 with an objective to curb the menace of illegal importation of pirated Ghanaian textile prints. The central government took this decision using the World Trade Organisation (WTO) Agreement on Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPs), which places an obligation upon it to take certain special border measures under Articles 51-60 of the TRIPs Agreement that enjoins WTO members to take action to prevent these illegal goods from being released by Customs Authority to the importers. The TRIPs agreement also mandated governments not to allow infringed goods to enter the channel of commerce and also not allow their re-exportation.
To save the local industry, MoTI issued a guideline in 2013 on the importation of African prints into the country
Local textile designs must be protected under Intellectual Property rights
for the reinstatement of the task force. But Vanderpuije, who described the workers’ stance as unfortunate, said the ministry is working in the best interest of the local textile manufacturing industry. Secretary General of the Ghana Federation of Labour, Abraham Koomson said, “What we care about is making sure that those who steal our designs are arrested, that’s all.” He, however, maintained that industry workers will make sure that nobody brings pirated designs to come and destroy their work in country. President of Spinnet Textiles and Garments Cluster, an association of small businesses in the manufacturing of textiles and garments for the domestic and export markets, Edwina Assan indicated that these policies have made it almost impossible for Ghana’s textile products to compete with cheap imports from Asia.
Directing and designing In an earlier attempt to stem the illegality, the Ministry of Trade and Industry (MoTI) in a 2005 directive designated the Takoradi Port as the ‘single corridor’ for the import of textiles into Ghana. As corollary to this policy, a committee was also set up to vet and approve all textile designs prior to importation. Though this was accepted by some industry operatives, the Customs Division of the Ghana Revenue Authority (GRA), said the policy rather resulted in an upsurge in smuggling with its attendant loss of revenue to government, which eventually resulted in a review permitting the importation of these goods through all entry points on condition that the guidelines on importation of such goods were complied with. Thus from September 2013, all imports were allowed through Kotoka International Airport (KIA), Accra, Takoradi and Tema Ports all in an attempt to salvage an industry, which at its peak in the 1980s employed over 30,000 workers directly, not to mention the distributors and itinerant hawkers and market traders. The latest lay-off occurred in December 2013 at Printex, a local firm that declared 200 of its work force as surplus to requirements, due to low patronage of its goods which a workers’ leader Francis Omari attributed to the influx of cheap textiles on the market especially from China in addition to the high taxes and unavailability of markets. The government in a surprising move in late 2013, however, announced the suspension of the activities of the anti-piracy task force through Nii Lante Vanderpuije, deputy trade minister following concerns expressed over the seizure of some 1,000 pieces of pirated textiles. This decision has, however, not gone down well with the Textile, Garment and Leather Workers’ Union, which has vehemently opposed the suspension petitioning the Trade Ministry
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
An emphasis on enforcement Speaking on the gradual collapse of the textile industry in Ghana, Assan expressed concern about the stiff competition faced by the industry as a result of the importation of cheap textiles. According to her, the Ghana Standards Authority had failed to fully operationalise its taskforce for arresting smugglers due to inadequate resources and the porous nature of the country’s borders. She urged government to check corruption at the borders, designate only one port as the designation point for all imported textiles to avoid the use of porous routes and also pay attention to the protection of Intellectual Property with regards to pirating of local textile designs. She also called on the Ministry of Trade and Industry to facilitate the capacity building of small and medium textile firms to enable them position themselves well and be competitive. To save the local industry, MoTI issued a guideline early last year on the importation of African prints into the country. The guidelines were intended to provide a framework of administrative procedure through which numerous unfair trade practices including evasion of imported duties, pirating of patent and trademarks and smuggling among many others could be controlled. The guideline included directives, which required all such importers to register with the Ministry of Trade, to allow effective monitoring and inspection of all imported African print to ensure they are not pirated designs from any local manufacturer. ❑ Kafui Gale-Zoyiku
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PLEINS FEUX SUR L’ÉGYPTE
Les producteurs de textile voient enfin la lumière au bout du tunnel Même si les investissements directs étrangers dans le secteur égyptien du textile et de l’habillement sont menacés par la crise économique actuelle, le pays n’en demeure pas moins l’un des principaux fournisseurs de tissus de qualité à l’échelle internationale COMME LA VERTIGINEUSE croissance économique que connaît l’Afrique profite majoritairement aux principaux marchés mondiaux du textile, les analystes commerciaux commencent à se demander si “l’Égypte ne risque pas de rester à la traîne?”
B
L’instabilité générale observée depuis le renversement du gouvernement de Mohamed Morsi a très certainement affecté l’économie. Le tourisme est durement touché et les industries du textile et de l’habillement, qui dépendent fortement des marchés étrangers, craignent que les investissements directs étrangers (IDE), qui leur sont pourtant indispensables, ne continuent à baisser à la source. Certains se demandent certainement pourquoi on investit dans une Égypte déchirée par les querelles internes et en manque évident de direction, alors qu’il existe de bien meilleures opportunités ailleurs, en particulier dans le Golfe ? Une grande partie des avancées réalisées par les entrepreneurs égyptiens au cours de ces 20 dernières années pourraient être perdues au profit d’exploitants beaucoup plus agiles originaires d'Afrique du Nord, de Turquie et d'autres horizons plus lointains. Étant donné la croissance actuelle que connaissent les marchés américains du textile et de l’habillement, qui constituent les principaux piliers du secteur privé égyptien depuis de nombreuses années, cette situation est plus qu’ironique. Il en va semblablement de même en matière de relance européenne. Dans son article paru dans le dernier numéro de Business Monthly, Isabel Esterman, membre de la Chambre américaine de commerce, résume parfaitement la situation. Elle y cite les propos tenus par Mohamed Kassem, PDG de la société égyptienne d’exportation de textile World
En 2011, les exportations égyptiennes de textile et d’habillement représentaient conjointement près de 10 % de l’ensemble des exportations du pays
Trading Company, sur la différence d'attitude des investisseurs locaux et des investisseurs internationaux face à la crise actuelle. Selon ses dires, M. Kassem aurait déclaré, en parlant de l’Égypte, que “des facteurs émotionnels et sentimentaux étaient en jeu”. Ces éléments sont plutôt absents de l’esprit des observateurs, qui ne tiennent compte que des chiffres. Ce sont des dévoreurs de chiffres. Ils se fichent que vous fassiez confiance au gouvernement ou non...ils veulent évaluer la situation sur place". Et ce
L’Égypte a le potentiel pour réaliser les transformations structurelles nécessaires pour tendre vers une économie plus productive et une exploitation optimale de l’immense richesse de ses ressources 8
qu'ils observent pour le moment sur le territoire particulièrement tourmenté de l'Égypte n'est pas bien joli. Ainsi, au sein de l'industrie égyptienne du textile et de l'habillement, ce sont les chiffres qui comptent, tout comme pour le reste de l'économie. Après examen de l'édition 2012 des "Statistiques du commerce internationale" publiée par la Banque mondiale, la plupart des observateurs conviendraient que les tendances de la situation égyptienne à long terme sont plutôt encourageantes. Fin 2011, les exportations égyptiennes de textile et d’habillement représentaient conjointement près de 10% de l’ensemble des exportations de biens de consommation courante. Cependant, il faut se rappeler que c'est au début de cette année-là que les troubles, souvent qualifiés de “Printemps
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014
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PLEINS FEUX SUR L’ÉGYPTE arabe”, ont vraiment commencé. “Folie temporaire” est le terme que la Chambre américaine de commerce en Égypte a choisi d’utiliser dans son dernier compte rendu mensuel. Les prêteurs du Golf (et les employeurs de nombreux expatriés égyptiens) n’ont pas été, eux non plus, des plus impressionnés. Dans son rapport semestriel sur les perspectives économiques égyptiennes, la Banque africaine de développement a déclaré que “l’Égypte avait le potentiel pour réaliser les transformations structurelles nécessaires pour tendre vers une économie plus productive et une exploitation optimale de l’immense richesse de ses ressources, à condition que certaines réformes politiques indispensables soient instaurées.” Le FMI a souligné que, pour atteindre la croissance, l’économie égyptienne devait progresser d’au moins 2% en 2013. En attendant, les travailleurs des villes industrielles de la Basse-Égypte et du Delta, parmi lesquels de nombreux employés qualifiés du secteur du textile et de l’habillement, doivent faire face à des pénuries d’électricité, d’eau, d’essence et même de gaz en bouteille. En raison de la faiblesse de la livre égyptienne et des répercussions que cela entraîne sur presque tous les biens importés,
ils doivent payer plus presque tout ce qu'ils achètent. Pour le comprendre, il suffit d’examiner la hausse qu’ont connu les importations égyptiennes de textile et d’habillement au cours de ces 20 dernières années. Les coûts de la machinerie indienne et européenne nécessaire au fonctionnement des usines et des ateliers ont connu une hausse considérable. La vision nécessaire pour corriger la situation semble faire défaut. On ne peut nier que le gouvernement intérimaire égyptien a mis tout en œuvre pour nommer des économistes de renom à des postes clés. Certains ont même travaillé dans des institutions internationales qui voient aujourd’hui l’Égypte d’un très mauvais œil (il n’y a rien d’inhabituel à cela ; Le Caire a toujours adopté une approche indépendante vis-à-vis de sujets tels que le rythme de la privatisation, surtout dans le secteur du textile). Cependant, ce que les potentiels investisseurs étrangers recherchent vraiment, c’est davantage une énonciation claire des objectifs nationaux que la capacité de simplement “faire face”. Ils veulent la preuve que le pays commence à se rassembler, à résoudre les dissensions factionnelles qui divisent son peuple, et notamment les organisateurs de la main d’œuvre industrielle.
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014
Sur une note positive, le dernier article publié par la Chambre américaine de commerce en Égypte indiquait que les ÉtatsUnis étaient eux-mêmes confrontés à des problèmes factionnels ces derniers temps, ce qui a entraîné la suspension de nombreux services fédéraux, les politiciens n’étant pas disposés à faire des compromis. Malgré certaines carences, le coton à longues fibres continue à être cultivé et récolté en Égypte, et bon nombre d’activités liées au secteur du textile et de l’habillement continuent à tourner exactement comme avant la chute du régime Mubarak. En novembre, la Conférence internationale sur le textile SMARTEX-2013, subventionnée par la Russie, s’est déroulée dans l’environnement calme de Sharm El Sheikh, sous les auspices de l’Académie égyptienne de recherche scientifique et de technologie. En mars 2014, le principal salon international du pays se tiendra, comme à son habitude, dans la capitale et accueillera une exposition majeure consacrée à la mode et au textile. En bref, l’Égypte traverse une mauvaise passe, mais elle n’a en aucun cas atteint un point de non-retour. Dans ce monde avide de textile, le pays demeure l’un des principaux fournisseurs de fibres, de tissus et de produits finis de haute qualité. ❑
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TEXTILE NEWS Oerlikon’s new vacuum pumps for R&D applications SWISS ENGINEERING COMPANY Oerlikon has announced the launch of its TURBOVAC i product line, which is a series of turbomolecular vacuum pumps for analytical instruments and research-and-development applications. With a pumping speed that is 60 per cent higher than that of similar products and a compression ratio that is 100 times higher than the previous generation, the Oerlikon product could be the next market leader. “With the new TURBOVAC family, we offer the leading product for analytics and research applications as well as for other industrial applications and intend to systematically expand our market position,” says CEO Martin Füllenbach. TURBOVAC T 350 i
Trützschler cards can produce 50 million cotton swabs per hourt TOGETHER WITH ROSINK Systeme, Trützschler has been selling installations for the production of card slivers used for making cotton swabs for many years. The web of a Trützschler cotton card is split into four segments. These web sections result in four fine card slivers. They have a count of approximately 1.5 gram per metre. The four slivers are simultaneously coiled into four cans by means of a Rosink Quad Coiler. Today, more than 80 Trützschler and Rosink machine combinations are on the market. The sliver that can be produced with these systems is sufficient for approx. 50,000,000 cotton swabs per hour. To further increase efficiency, FALU has recently introduced cotton swab machines with integrated drafting system. The feed sliver used here has a weight of three to four gram per metre. To fully utilise the potential of the Trützschler High Production Card in these cases, the Rosink sliver splitting system has been adapted to the
With the Rosink Quad Coiler, four slivers are coiled simultaneously into four cans
Trützschler Card TC 11-H, allowing a production of four slivers a four gram per metre. Thus, the card production is more than doubled again. All the advantages and control systems of the Trützschler TC 11-H are utilised; they ensure a perfect sliver evenness at maximum efficiency of the total system.
Dutch designer creates wearable Wi-Fi suit
The new TURBOVAC pumps series comes with low maintenance needs. The TURBOVAC 350 i and 450 i models, for instance, are specifically designed for ultrahigh vacuum applications and for installation in compact pump-system solutions and are suitable for processes with small backing pumps. This reduces procurement and operating costs, Oerlikon said. In contrast, the TURBOVAC T 350 i and T 450 i models are designed for process applications and high gas throughput. They offer fast run-up times and insensitivity to particulates. Both model variations provide a range of options for the most diverse special requirements. “Successful test runs with various customers demonstrate that TURBOVAC i pumps can make full use of the advantages they offer in the field. The models are the highest-performing, most versatile and lowest-maintenance pumps on the market,” added Füllenbach.
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DUTCH FASHION DESIGNER Borre Akkersdijk has come up with a new kind of wearable technology — a Wi-Fi enabled suit. Akkersdijk began experimenting with a circular knitting machine in 2009 to knit two layers of fine cotton thread enveloping a synthetic fibre, Sky News reported. Now he has pushed the technique further by running copper wire through the material during the manufacturing process. The wires can be hooked up to chips and connectivity devices, and he has created two prototype outfits called BB.Suits. Akkersdijk said, “This suit is to show that
wearable technology will be the future — a future where people wearing hi-tech clothes is the most natural thing in the world.” The concept is the result of a collaboration between ByBorre, fabric innovation brand; Eindhoven University of Technology; 22Tracks, a music platform; CRISP; Daan Spangenberg Graphics and Want.nl. “Together, we want to show the ideas and concepts we have about wearable technology. We think garments are one of the exciting futures for interface design, connecting the wearer to people and places, becoming the ideal interface for many new user experiences.”
Dutch designer Borre Akkersdijk wearing the BB.Suit.
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ADVERTORIAL
Luxury terry towelling producer Glodina to deliver latest Montex stenter SOUTH AFRICAN LUXURY terry towelling producer Glodina has decided to deliver its latest Montex stenter, replacing two old unit. The latest Montex, which would replace two older stenters, will continue to deliver the same quality and absorbent finish for Glodina’s high-end terry towelling. Glodina said that their two old stenters, dating back to 1958 and 1962 had become ‘virtually unrepairable’. The units were reportedly installed in 2011 through Texmaco, the local representative of Monforts. Now, the two units would be replaced by the Montex 6500. The four chamber Montex provides working widths of between 0.7 metres to 2.20 metres and operates generally at speeds of between 20 metres per minute to 30 metres per minute, depending on weights and the moisture content. Markus Eksteen, engineering manager, said, “The new technology of the latest
Glodina’s two units would be replaced by the Montex 6500
Montex made an instant impact being so user friendly, far fewer controls and guaranteed reproducibility." Eksteen added that earlier, they would manually adjust weft straightening but with this machine, the entire process is automatic. Glodina supplies major retailers and caters to 80 per cent of South Africa's bed-and-breakfast inns and hotels. The company's range of terry towels are snag resistant. The towels are available in woven and warp knits, and feature
cotton as the main raw material. This cotton is dyed and bleached, washed and dried, before final finishing through the stenter to ensure the company’s renown soft and absorbent finish. The company is also widely regarded for its range of frequently complicated and elaborate cross borders, featuring unique designs for each of Glodina’s customers. Glodina stated that it currently produces around 2,200 tonnes per annum, accounting for roughly 30 per cent of the local market. The company dates back over 60 years with the Ballaadon family buying Dano Dyeing and Printing Works in 1953 and installing 20 looms to weave towels and napkins. Glodina is currently part of the KAP International Group. In 2001, the company was acquired by Daun & Cie, and in 2005 was listed on the JSE as part of KAP International Holdings. In 2012, Steinhoff became the major and controlling shareholder.
Stenter Montex 8000 with ECO Booster HRC The intelligent, integrated heat recovery module ECO Booster HRC is completely integrated into the new chamber design of the Montex 8000. The new ECO Booster HRC module is characterised in that it is cleaned automatically while the stenter range is running so that a constant optimum efficiency is assured. It eliminates standstill times for maintenance and hence significantly increases the range availability. The ECO Booster HRC module is equipped with an electric drive which permits computer-controlled optimisation of the heat exchanger performance to the prevailing exhaust air streams, something that is not possible with purely static heat exchanger modules. The optimum efficiency of the ECO Booster HRC allows process costs to be further reduced.
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG Germany | A Member of Fong’s Industries Group
www.monforts.com
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COLOURANTS
World market sees an emergence of new dyes and auxiliaries Ian Holme
A
report on the global textile chemicals market by Transparency Market Research, USA, predicted that the global market will grow from US$19.6bn in 2013 to US23.4bn by 2018. The sector of colourants and auxiliaries amounted to 26.9 per cent of the market in 2011 and clearly this will grow in line with increased global fibre consumption. The Asia-Pacific region dominates the textile chemicals market, both as producer and consumer, with a market share of 52.3 per cent in 2011. European dyemakers are consolidating their presence in the region and DyStar has commenced a second production line for its high quality DyStar Indigo Vat 40 per cent solution. The second production line started up on 1 April 2013 in DyStar’s manufacturing hub in Nanjing, China and will reach a designed capacity of 12,000 metric tonnes a year. In 2013, SK Capital, a private investment firm, completed their acquisition of the Textile Chemicals, Paper Specialities and Emulsions business from Clariant and has combined the three divisions into an “integrated, market-focussed and highly collaborative company” called Archroma. Archroma will have revenues of around US$1.3bn with its products manufactured in 25 global manufacturing facilities and has some 3,000 employees. Archroma will have its headquarters in Switzerland and the Textile Chemicals business division will be managed from Singapore. The strong regulatory stance adopted within Europe has forced European dyemakers to move their manufacturing sites into Asia, a move that places colourant manufacture nearer to the major sources of textile fibre and fabric production, thereby decreasing product distribution costs. The massive investment in both dye and pigment manufacturing capacity in China, for example, has resulted in considerable economies of scale. Dye production costs decreased and because of increasing global competition and lower labour costs the purchase price per kilo of dyes and pigments has fallen, especially for commodity dyes and pigments that are manufactured on a massive scale. Now, in 2014, the dyes and pigments market is entering into a new phase in which the market bottomed out and prices are set to rise. A major factor in this global price shift is the increasingly strict approaches being taken by the Chinese and Indian regulatory authorities to clamp down on environmental issues because of the burgeoning waste water pollution generated as a by-product of dye manufacture. Another major factor is the
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The sector of colourants and auxiliaries amounted to 26.9 per cent of the market in 2011 and clearly this will grow in line with increased global fibre consumption
closing down of some chemical production facilities that are major sources of pollution. This has led to a serious shortfall in the global production of certain chemical intermediates e.g. H-Acid, which are essential for the production of many textile dyes. As a result, there are likely to be production caps for certain dyestuffs, problems of continuity of supply, and rising prices for both intermediates and dyestuffs. In some cases the increased prices for chemical intermediates will result in dyemakers turning these into higher value higher priced dyestuffs where their profit margins are higher.
The strong regulatory stance adopted within Europe has forced European dyemakers to move their manufacturing sites into Asia As colourant manufacturers move towards “cleaner and greener” dye manufacturing this can only come about through capital investment which may leave their research and development departments under cost pressures and decrease the likelihood of new dyestuffs entering the global market. This is likely to act as a barrier to innovation so that technological change in textile dyeing and printing could stagnate as a result.
New Dyestuffs Huntsman Textile Effects has expanded its flagship range of polyreactive Avitera SE dyes for exhaust dyeing of cellulosic fibres. Combined with the Gentle Power Bleach system, Avitera SE dyestuffs enable cotton fabrics to be bleached, dyed and washed off at temperatures not exceeding 60°C. This decreases water and energy consumption and carbon emissions by up to 50 per cent. Avitera SE dyes are polyreactive which ensures that the unfixed dye after dyeing is only five per cent or less, compared with the more usual 15 per cent to 30 per cent in many reactive dye systems. As a result, this greatly reduces the number of rinsing baths required to remove unfixed/hydrolysed dyes to obtain the highest colour fastness standards. Huntsman Textile Effects has introduced a new Light Red range of polyreactive dyestuffs giving a bluish-red shade that can be used in a broad colour spectrum of pale shades with high colour fastness to light. For pale shades Huntsman Textile Effects produce Avitera Yellow SE, Avitera Cardinal SE, Avitera Light Red SE and Avitera Light Blue SE. For medium depths of colour Avitera Yellow SE, Avitera Cardinal SE are complemented by Avitera Red SE and Avitera Blue SE. For dark colours the yellow and blue components are replaced by Avitera Orange SE and Avitera Deep Blue SE respectively. For very deep shades Huntsman Textile Effects produce Avitera Orange SE, Avitera Cardinal SE and Avitera Navy SE. The high
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aqueous solubility of Avitera SE dyestuffs enables them to be applied at ultra-short liquor ratios. DyStar has expanded its range of Remazol Deep Black reactive dyestuffs with two new dyestuffs that offer enhanced colour strength and build-up characteristics. The two newly patented reactive dyestuffs are Remazol Onyx RGB and Remazol Midnight Black RGB. These dyestuffs exhibit high colour fastness to washing, very low staining on polyamide fibres in fibre blends (e.g. cotton / polyamide) as well as offering good washing off performance and white dischargeability. Both these new black dyestuffs can be applied by the exhaust, cold pad-batch and continuous application methods. Remazol Onyx RGB is a neutral black while Remazol Midnight Black RGB is a greenish black and both dyestuffs fully comply with the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and are AOX (absorbable organohalide)-free and metal-free. Archroma (formerly Clariant) has introduced a range of dyestuffs that can be applied by its Advanced Denim technology to expand the spectrum of colours other than blue. Archroma’s Advanced Denim Technology was originally based upon their Diresul RDT dyestuffs. However, they launched a new range of six Optisul C dyestuffs in Paris at Première Vision which are designed to provide soft denim colours via a continuous dyeing method. The Optisul C range are said to be affinity-free and sulphidefree dyestuffs which meet both GOTS and bluesign 1 criteria. Combinable with each other at low concentration they enable denim to be dyed in a wide colour gamut of easy to achieve reproducible soft colours. Avocet Dye & Chemical Company Ltd, UK, has introduced a new navy dyestuff to their metalfree Cetalan AV range. Cetalan Navy AV RLD complements the range which now consists of 12 dyestuffs covering a wide colour gamut. Cetalan Navy AV RLD and another new dye Cetalan Dark Red AV D are designed for use in the wool or wool/nylon carpet sector, but can also be applied in wool fabric dyeing. Cetalan Navy AV RLD enables textile dyers to achieve deep rich colours while still offering good colour fastness to light and washing. The Cetalan range of dyes are an economic range of dyestuffs enabling dyers to achieve deep colours while still meeting exacting environmental and ecological standards. DyStar has introduced two new reactive dyestuffs, Levafix Amber CA-N and Levafix Red CA-N. The former is a non-photochromic yellow that DyStar recommends for ternary pale-tomedium depths of colour. Designed as a replacement for Levafix Amber CA this new dyestuff offers significantly less staining on polyamide fibres. Levafix Amber CA-N offers high colour fastness to both peroxide and chlorine. Levafix Red CA-N is a bluish-red dyestuff suitable for medium to dark shades, an excellent partner for trichromatic combinations and an
alternative to Levafix Red CA. Both these new Levafix Amber CA-N and Levafix Red CA-N reactive dyestuffs are applicable via exhaust or continuous dyeing processes, are AOX-free, metal-free and meet full compliance with OekoTex Standard 100 and all Restricted Substance Lists. Additionally Levafix Amber CA-N can be utilised in cold pad batch dyeing processes because of its balanced migration behaviour which provides very good reproducibility and levelness of dyeing. A new green vat dyestuff from DyStar is Indanthren Green CLF Coll, which has an optimised particle size to provide the best migration properties. This vat dyestuff provides outstanding reproducibility as well as a level and unique shade on polyamide/cotton fabrics. Indanthren Green CLF Coll provides a new basis for high colour fastness green shades wherein the major part of the green colour is not provided by blue and yellow dyes. For continuous dyeing DyStar recommend the use of Sera Gal MIP, for exhaust dyeing Sera Sperse C-SN and for two-phase printing Sera Print M-CAM.
Dyeing Auxiliaries DyStar’s Remazol RGB and Remazol Ultra RGB reactive dyestuff technology is now complemented by a novel wash-clearing auxiliary that is used in DyStar’s Sera Eco Wash process. SeraFast GRD provides an accelerated wash-clearing action, the auxiliary having been especially formulated to speed up the removal of hydrolysed/unfixed reactive dyestuffs. The Sera Eco Wash process shortens the wash-clearing process at 60°C, thereby saving on water, energy and processing time. In this way machine productivity and process sustainability are enhanced. A new diffusion accelerator for enhancing aqueous-based disperse dyeing of polyester fibres has been introduced by Rudolf Chemie. Suitable for dyeing both polyester and polyester blends, Rucogal ERL is a non-ionic product based upon a fatty alcohol ethoxylate and fatty acid ester. Rucogal ERL is a self-emulsifying liquid product that can be added directly to the dyebath and is low foaming. Rucogal ERL provides excellent levelling effects and is suitable for correction of unlevel dyeing because of its superior levelling performance. This dyeing auxiliary is resistant to water hardness problems and acids under normal dyehouse conditions and imparts good colour-intensifying effects even when applied at the boil. It is applicable in all types of dyeing machinery. Bozzetto Group has introduced a new carrier, Cindye DNK, for the dyeing of aramid fibres to very dark shades, which are normally extremely difficult to achieve because of the compact high crystalline fibre structure. Dyeing of aramid fibres can thus be carried out using basic dyestuffs, a strongly acid pH and Cindye DNK which provides the accelerated diffusion of dyes within the aramid fibres, with a consequent increase in both the rubbing and wash fastness. ❑
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COLORANTS SYNTHÉTIQUES
Face à une industrie textile en perpétuelle croissance, les nouveaux colorants ont le vent en poupe par Ian Holme EN 2012, UNE étude sur les tendances mondiales concernant les fibres a indiqué que la production mondiale avait augmenté de 4,5 pour cent par rapport à l’année précédente, atteignant 85,8 millions de tonnes. Les synthétiques dominent désormais le marché mondial et connaissent une croissance de six pour cent, atteignant un volume de 56 millions de tonnes, dont la fibre polyester constitue 41,4 millions de tonnes. Une étude mondiale sur les fibres synthétiques réalisée par Tecnon OrbiChem, Londres, a prévu que la production mondiale de fibres synthétiques passerait à 110,5 millions de tonnes d'ici à 2020 et à 132 millions de tonnes d'ici à 2025.
B
La production grimpera en flèche en raison de la croissance de la population mondiale et de l’amélioration de la prospérité des individus, associées à des cycles de mode plus courts. De plus, on observera une croissance des matériaux textiles innovants et des nouvelles applications produits. Ces nouvelles applications seront particulièrement importantes dans le domaine des textiles techniques, car les marchés pour ces produits sont de plus en plus divers et se développent de façon significative. Cela sera alimenté par une augmentation de l’industrialisation dans les pays du Moyen-Orient et d’Afrique (MOAN), pendant que l’amélioration des normes d’hygiène stimulera la demande de nontissés. On constate également une croissance continue des biopolymères, qui sont identiques chimiquement à ceux dérivés des produits pétrochimiques, mais proviennent partiellement de la biomasse. La production de fibres de biopolyester (bio-PET) devrait s’accroître pour passer à environ cinq millions de tonnes d’ici à 2020, en partie grâce à la production de bioéthanol issu de la canne à sucre. Cependant, ce développement du bioPET a plus de chance de survenir en Asie et en Amérique du Sud en raison d’un meilleur
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accès aux matières premières et de contextes politiques favorables. Dans le secteur des fibres naturelles, la production de fibres de coton a été estimée à 25,4 millions de tonnes entre 2011 et 2013. Douze pays, notamment les Etats-Unis, l’Argentine, l’Australie, l’Afrique du Sud, l’Inde et la Chine, produisent du coton biotechnologique, également appelé coton « transgénique » ou « génétiquement modifié. » Cela représente environ 77 pour cent de la production mondiale de coton et 92 pour cent du coton biotechnologique produit dans le monde. A la lumière de ces développements, on peut déterminer les principales zones d'activité pour les fabricants de colorants et de produits chimiques pour le textile, ainsi que leurs mélanges.
Colorants textiles Un rapport de la Transparency Market Research a prévu que le marché mondial des produits chimiques pour le textile connaîtrait, par rapport à aujourd’hui, une croissance de 20 pour cent d’ici à 2018, atteignant US$23,4 milliards. En 2011, les colorants et les auxiliaires représentaient 26,9 pour cent du marché, mais le principal secteur était celui des produits chimiques de revêtement et d’encollage qui constituait 32,1 pour cent des parts de marché. Un autre secteur, comprenant les tensioactifs, les agents de désencollage, les agents de blanchiment et les lubrifiants de fil, représentait 22,9 pour cent du marché mondial des produits chimiques pour le textile. En 2011, la région Asie-Pacifique a dominé le marché mondial des produits chimiques pour le textile avec une part de marché d’environ 52,3 pour cent. Il pourrait s’agir du marché à plus forte croissance avec un taux de croissance moyen de quatre pour cent entre 2013 et 2018. Les colorants réactifs pour le coton et les autres fibres cellulosiques restent un
important centre d’intérêt pour les fabricants de colorants dans le monde. Les tendances modernes du secteur, qui nécessitent l’utilisation de couleurs vives à la mode dans des nuances intermédiaires à foncées, favorisent les colorants à solidité élevée des couleurs dans les gammes des colorants réactifs et des colorants de cuve, tant pour les textiles d’habillement que pour le linge de maison. Les colorants réactifs sont produits sous la forme de systèmes monofonctionnels, bifonctionnels ou polyfonctionnels. Les colorants réactifs homo-bifonctionnels et hétéro-bifonctionnels sont couramment utilisés. L’augmentation du nombre de groupes fonctionnels réactifs aux fibres dans la molécule de colorant augmente la valeur de fixation potentielle du colorant sur la fibre, réduisant ainsi la quantité de colorant réactif non fixé et hydrolysé à éliminer par un lavage soigneux après la teinture. L'augmentation de la fonctionnalité du système réactif du colorant augmente le coût de celui-ci, mais cela est compensé par une meilleure fixation, des temps de teinture/lavage plus courts et une moindre coloration, ainsi qu'un plus faible volume d'eaux résiduaires. Huntsman Textile Effects a développé sa gamme de colorants réactifs en introduisant les colorants tri-réactifs Avitera SE, qui incluent le nouveau Avitera Light Red SE. Ce colorant doit être combiné au Avitera Yellow SE, au Avitera Cardinal SE et au Avitera Light Blue SE sur des nuances claires. Pour les nuances intermédiaires, Huntsman recommande Avitera Yellow SE, Avitera Cardinal SE, Avitera Red SE et Avitera Blue SE. Les nuances foncées peuvent être obtenues en utilisant Avitera Orange SE, Avitera Cardinal SE, Avitera Red SE et Avitera Deep Blue SE. Pour les nuances très foncées qui sont souvent demandées, Huntsman recommande Avitera Orange SE, Avitera Cardinal SE et Avitera Navy SE.
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COLORANTS SYNTHÉTIQUES Les innovations Avitera SE de Huntsman sont considérées comme un grand pas en avant dans les applications des colorants réactifs. La teinture par épuisement et le lavage peuvent être mis en œuvre à des températures allant jusqu'à 60 °C. De plus, la plus faible quantité de colorant réactif non fixé (en général cinq pour cent ou moins) diminue fortement le nombre de bains de rinçage et la durée totale du lavage. Cela augmente la productivité de la machine et la consommation d'eau, d'énergie, ainsi que les émissions de carbone peuvent être réduites jusqu'à 50 pour cent. DyStar a complété ses gammes de colorants réactifs Remazol RGB et Remazol Ultra RGB par un nouvel additif de neutralisation du bain. Le Sera Fast C-RD a été formulé pour accélérer l'élimination des colorants réactifs hydrolysés à 60 °C. Il a une action prononcée d'accélération du lavage qui conduit à d'importantes économie en eau, en énergie et en temps de traitement. Cela a un effet positif sur la productivité de la machine et sur la durabilité du procédé. DyStar a introduit Levafix Amber CA-N, un colorant jaune non photochromique conçu pour une application dans des nuances ternaires claires à intermédiaires. En remplacement du Levafix Amber CA, ce nouveau colorant permet une réduction du dégorgement sur les polyamides, ainsi qu'une résistance élevée de la couleur au peroxyde d'hydrogène et au chlore. De même, le Levafix Red CA-N est une alternative au Levafix Red CA et fournit un colorant rouge bleuté adapté aux nuances ternaires intermédiaires à foncées. Ces deux nouveaux réactifs sont applicables par des procédés d'épuisement ou de teinture continue. Pour les machines de teinture pour polyester, la commercialisation de la première machine à teindre les tissus sCO2 à l'échelle industrielle apporte un formidable bouleversement de la teinture sans eau. Des machines de teinture à trois faisceaux ont été installées dans un atelier de teinture en Thaïlande et permettent de teindre des lots de tissu de 175-200 kg selon l'épaisseur du tissu et son poids par unité de surface. Dans la teinture sCO2, des colorants dispersibles spécialement conçus par Triade, aux Pays-Bas, sont utilisés dans des machines fabriquées par DyeCOO Textile Systems BV. Les colorants de dispersion pour la teinture sCO2 sont commercialisés sous la marque DyeCOO. Dans la teinture sCO2, la quasi-totalité du colorant est absorbé par le polyester, le procédé ne génère pas d'eaux résiduaires et 95 pour cent du CO2 est recyclé dans le lot suivant. La teinture est réalisée à 130 °C sous une pression de 300 bars, la conception est donc
robuste et répond aux normes de qualité. Le tissu teinté ressort sec de la machine. Cela évite le séchage thermique pour éliminer l'eau. La diminution de la consommation d'énergie et de l'utilisation de produits chimiques réduirait les coûts de production jusqu'à 50 %. Actuellement, DyeCOO travaille avec Huntsman à l'extension de la technologie sCO2 et les premiers produits devraient apparaître pour les agents de finition et les agents d’avivage fluorescents.
Auxiliaires et Agents de Finition pour le Textile La société Rudolf basée en Allemagne a introduit Rucogal ERL, un accélérateur de diffusion non ionique pour la teinture du polyester et des mélanges de polyester. Peu moussant, auto-émulsionnable, Rucogal ERL est un produit liquide à base d'un éthoxylate alcool gras et d'un ester d'acide gras. Rucogal ERL résiste à la dureté de l'eau et aux acides dans les conditions normales d'un atelier de teinture et peut être appliqué dans tous les types de machine de teinture. Il confère de bons effets d'intensification des couleurs et une excellente performance d'égalisation. Le ITOSOLT LJ550 de LJ Specialities, au Royaume-Uni, a été spécialement conçu pour permettre une excellente élimination de la graisse sur les tissus grèges alliée à une excellente dispersion pour empêcher que la graisse se redépose sur le tissu. Pour les dispersions de colorants à hautes températures, LJ Specialities a fabriqué le TOSOLT SN550. Ce produit auxiliaire est également conçu pour éliminer les problèmes de tacheture ou de dégorgement de colorant dans les machines. La société indienne Sarex Chemicals a introduit Careguard FF, un produit de finition hydrofuge sans fluor, durable et respectueux de l'environnement pour les tissus destinés aux vêtements d'extérieur, de loisirs et de sport. Careguard FF se base sur une matrice d'hydrocarbure avec des polymères hyperramifiés qui lui permettent de résister à plus de 20 traitements de lavage. Adapté aux traitements de soin LAD (Laundry Air Dry), le Careguard FF est sans paraffine et sans formaldéhyde ; il est conçu pour une application sur des tissus en fibres cellulosiques et les tissus de mélange cellulosique/synthétique. Huntsman a introduit son EverGlide Low Friction Systems, une finition textile pour tous les types de substrats qui peut réduire les frottements du tissu contre la peau pour les vêtements de sport. Cette finition confère un toucher doux et soyeux et a déjà démontré qu'elle était quatre fois plus efficace que les adoucissants conventionnels sur les tricots nylon/élastane et polyester. L'EverGlide Low Friction Systems de
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2014
Huntsman a de faibles propriétés de jaunissement et n’affecte pas la blancheur du tissu dans des conditions de moisissure ou la thermomigration. Cette finition est extrêmement durable et a de bonnes performances dans un environnement humide. Elle présente en outre l’avantage d’intégrer un système de gestion de l’humidité « cool comfort » qui favorise un séchage rapide et une bonne régulation de la température corporelle. Pour de nombreuses applications, les finitions antistatiques pour les matériaux polyesters sont essentielles pour éviter que le vêtement colle et qu’il accumule de l’électricité statique. Ruco Stat ADM de Rudolf est à base d’un éthoxylate d'alkyle cationique. Il est applicable par épuisement ou foulardage sur des fibres de polyester ou de polyamide sans effet sur le toucher du tissu. Les fibres doivent également être résistantes à un lavage doux. Avec Ruco Stat ADM, aucun traitement thermique n’est nécessaire pour conférer une durabilité à la fibre. La combinaison de Ruco Stat ADM et de finitions hydrophiles, telles que Feran ICS, peut améliorer l’effet antistatique. Dans le secteur des ignifuges pour textiles, les sociétés font face à une pression croissante des écotoxicologues en raison de l’utilisation d’ignifuges halogénés, en particulier d’ignifuges à base de brome. De ce fait, de nombreuses sociétés de produits chimiques mènent des recherches pour trouver des alternatives aux produits, tels que le DecaBDE (décabromodiphényl éther) qui est couramment utilisé dans les formulations d’enduction d’envers. La société Avocet Dye & Chemical, basée au Royaume-Uni, produit sa gamme Cetaflam BC6, qui utiliserait la meilleure technologie d'ignifuge disponible, équivalente au DecaBDE. Des composés ou additifs prêts à l’emploi sont disponibles et le Cetaflam BC6 revendique sa conformité à l’ensemble des législations environnementales actuelles. Avocet a également sa gamme Cetaflam BC8 qui est totalement sans halogène et peut être complétée par des additifs constitués d’un mélange spécial avec lequel l’enducteur de textile peut être mélangé sur place. TANA COAT OMP, conçu par Tanatex Chemicals, est un autre nouveau produit pour l’enduction des textiles. Ce produit peut s’utiliser comme couche de fond souple, avec TANA COAT MTO comme couche de finition moyenne à dure. Les caractéristiques remarquables de cette combinaison de revêtements sont les excellentes propriétés de résistance à la lumière et la résistance aux UV. Ce système de revêtement offre une très bonne résistance à l’hydrolyse et, par ailleurs, le revêtement final est résistant à l’action des moisissures et champignons. ❑
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ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014
China gears up for the fourth edition The ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 show is expected to give the booming Asian market a platform to experience better technology and improve skills to compete with international players
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TMA ASIA + CITME 2014 is all set to showcase in Shanghai, China, from 16 June to 20 June at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. This edition will see exhibitors in 13 halls, spread across 152,000 square metres — a 15 per cent increase from the previous edition that was held in 2012. Till date, ITMA has seen 1,351 textile machinery manufacturers from 27 countries and regions participate. According to the organisers, this year the Chinese exhibitors are taking up largest exhibition area, having booked a little over 66 per cent of the space. The European contingent has booked 22 per cent of the area, making them the second largest set of manufacturers at the expo. Statistics from the General Administration of Customs said that China’s exports of textiles and garments amounted to US$26bn in 2013, which is an increase of seven per cent over the same period last year. Charles Beauduin, president of CEMATEX, said, “Textile machinery manufacturers are still buoyant about the Asian market, particularly China. Investments in cost-effective technology to help the textile and garment industry stay ahead of the competition are still strong. As such, our combined show will continue to be the unrivalled marketing platform for textile machinery manufacturers tapping into the vibrant China market.” China continues to focus on upgrading technology and skills to reach an international level for textile and other industry sectors, and this is one of the priorities under the government’s 12th Five-Year Plan period (2011-2015). Wang Shutian, president of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), added: “Interest in the combined show remains extremely strong, especially from Chinese textile machinery manufacturers. As China’s textile industry continues its transformation, the demand for advanced machinery and technology is on the rise. J 20 air-jet spinning machine by Rieter
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ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 saw more than 92,000 visitors from more than 107 countries and regions during the five-day show
This is also reflected in the current uptrend in textile machinery trade.”
Rieter has a lot to offer The know-how relating to financing, spinning mill planning, use of the right technological elements, selection of the correct spinning process as well as many other competences are necessary to achieve success in the operation of a spinning plant. Rieter is presenting all its expertise at the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014. Rieter will display a model of the 1.5 metre wide C 70 card with the biggest active carding area. Visitors will also witness the SB-D 22 doublehead draw frame ensuring maximum productivity at delivery speed up to 1 100 m/min and a unique automatic can changer up to 1,000mm. The G 32 ring spinning machine (operational) produces ring, fancy ring, twin and compact ringspun yarn – quality controlled by the ISM individual spindle monitoring system. High productivity and excellent Com4®rotor yarn quality with yarn-like piecings will be highlights of the fully-automatic R 60 rotor spinning machine (operational). A new generation of the J 20 air-jet spinning machine (operational) will be introduced with new
concepts of spin unit automation, winding and machine prolongation to 200 units. What the benefits and characteristics of the 4 spinning systems mean for downstream processing can be experienced by visitors. Here fabric samples and end products of the 4 Rieter Com4® yarns are available.
DiloGroup’s latest innovations Germany-based DiloGroup has said that it would provide information about production lines made in Germany and recent machine concepts from the DiloGroup companies DiloTemafa, DiloSpinnbau and DiloMachines at the textile event. A major focus of the new equipment is to improve operation efficiency, web quality and uniformity with positive effects on all staple fibre bonding processes, stated the company. These elements are part of the ‘Dilo – Isomation Process’ and aim at an even web mass for reduced fibre consumption as raw material is the biggest cost factor in textile production. One machine contributing to this process is the dosing opener DON manufactured by DiloTemafa, which includes a fine opening stage and delivers the fibrous material continuously and homogeneously to the card feeder. Card feeder MultiFeed, designed by DiloSpinnbau, is available in working widths up to five metres. This machine using the ‘Twinflow’ infeed system offers a capacity of over 400 kg/hour/m of working width when processing 1.7 dtex fibres, represents a state-of-the-art feeding solution for direct cards. Organisers added that ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 is being promoted throughout Asia by means of numerous roadshows and visits to trade associations. Recent roadshows in India, Indonesia, Pakistan, Turkey and Vietnam have drawn very positive responses from the local industries, and delegations and groups of visitors from key textile manufacturing economies have indicated their intention to visit the showcase. ❑
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
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EVENT NEWS Hong Kong International Textile fair was undoubtedly Asia’s largest NEARLY 2,300 EXHIBITORS from 36 countries and regions took part in the HKTDC Hong Kong Houseware Fair and the HKTDC Hong Kong International Home Textiles & Furnishings Fair, that was held from 20 April to 23 April at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Organised by Hong Kong Trade Development Council, the fair featured 16 group pavilions, including the ASEAN select pavilion, hosting 60 exhibitors from five countries namely Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam. The fair highlights included three new zones — avenue of inspiration, presenting innovative houseware from Hong Kong start-up companies; creative arts and cultural craft; and baby and children’s homeware. The Hall of Elegance was back, with brands such as BWT (Austria), Happycall (South Korea), Metier (Hong Kong), Multiple Choice by Topchoice (Hong Kong), Thomas Pottery (Hong Kong) and Vigar (Spain). The show also saw the return of the World of Fine Décor, World of Fine Dining, the World of Pet Supplies and the SmallOrder Zone. Other product zones at the event included green living, health & wellness, hometech, kitchenware and gadgets and outdoor living. World of Textiles The fifth Home Textiles and Furnishings Fair featured more than 220 exhibitors from seven
The show acted as an information exchange platform
countries and regions, including newcomers Czech Republic and Portugal. The fair also included a pavilion from the Chinese mainland, as well as two from India — the Handloom Export Promotion Council and the Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts. The new design solutions and trade services zone showcased interior design and product design offerings. Other zones include baby & bedroom textiles, bathroom & kitchen textiles, carpet & floor coverings, upholstery & furnishing, and window fashion & accessories.
In addition, the two fairs together presented a number of events, including product demonstrations and ASEAN kitchen shows. The show acted as an information exchange platform. The Product Demo and Launch Pad session provided suppliers with opportunities to announce their latest products in an interactive setting with buyers. Networking Reception brought together industry players to an occasion conducive to forging and strengthening relationships. The next show will be held on 20-23 April 2015.
Source Africa to demonstrate the continent’s textile manufacturing strength SOURCE AFRICA WILL take place for the second time in South Africa’s Cape Town starting 18 June 2014. The three-day event is touted as the most important annual pan-African textile, clothing and footwear trade event on the international calendar encouraging linkages between buyers, manufacturers and suppliers, investment into manufacturing capacity in Africa and accelerating job creation for many years to come. Source Africa 2013 demonstrated what can be achieved when USAID’s regional experts join forces with private enterprise, LTE – leaders in trade exhibitions, in South Africa to boost regional industry. The event was designed to show that African textile, apparel & footwear manufacturers can compete on price, quality and standards. It brought together manufacturers, suppliers and service providers in one major integrated event, enabling African and International buyers to examine a wide array of products and services in one efficient trip. Source Africa 2014 will include a two-day trade exhibition, African country pavilions, international business seminars organised by the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), an opening plenary session and cocktail receptions. Another important element will be the professional online matchmaking programme. By effectively combining online technology together with a team of business matchmakers, event participants are profiled, provided access to an online matchmaking calendar with the ability to view and select exactly who they want to meet. The Source Africa Trade Expo is expected to once again attract over 2,000 decision makers who will have the opportunity to view an extensive range of products and services from more than 180 exhibitors. Source Africa was designed to demonstrate that African suppliers and manufacturers can compete on price, quality and standards. “It is clear that Africa sits on the threshold of new opportunities for export
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Source Africa 2013 saw 1,401 trade visitors, 170 exhibitors and 36 top buyers from local and international retailers
diversification and regional integration in these industries. Moreover, there seems to be an agreement that with higher costs in Asia and the saturation of some key sourcing platforms in Asia and elsewhere, Africa has a chance to become a new sourcing destination’, says Steve Lamar, Executive Vice President, the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) and Source Africa event supporter. William Scalco, Member, LTE South Africa, said, “We have great plans in store to boost intra-regional trade as well as grow global opportunities for the industry. An exciting announcement is that USAID and AAFA have once again partnered with us to develop Source Africa into the most important trade event for the footwear, clothing and textiles industries in Africa. An extensive marketing and promotional campaign will be launched to attract even more African and international trade buyers and exhibitors.”
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
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Techtextil Middle East highlights market potential for technical textiles in region THE IMMENSE POTENTIAL market that exists for technical textiles in the Middle East region, in particular its uses in the safety and protection areas, was the focus of the inaugural Techtextil Middle East Symposium held alongside Intersec 2014 in January at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Center. The two-day series of presentations and interactive panel discussions organised by International Newsletters in association with Messe Frankfurt, showcased on the fast-growing technical textiles industry with a particular emphasis on their applications in the Middle East region. Technical textiles are synthetic fabrics designed with pure functionality in mind and are currently in demand by a vast array of industries including for automotive applications, medical, geotextiles, agro and protective textiles. Leading industry representatives underlined the tremendous benefits to be gained by the appropriate use of technical textiles in protective and safety functions. The Middle East region, currently enjoying a phase of considerable economic growth accompanied by a surge in the creation of new infrastructure and transport and logistics facilities offers enormous potential for the use of Protech (technical textiles especially for the safety and protection of workers) and Buildtech (textiles for building and construction). The role of protective gear in keeping wearers cool in extreme conditions was discussed in a presentation by Technical Absorbents Ltd. (UK), while Norafin spoke about the use of nonwovens in protective gear. Other topics discussed included the importance of standards and testing; innovation and technical textiles and experts took a look at the global markets for technical textiles. “Non-wovens are among the fast growing sectors of the technical textiles market,” said Christian Rosenkrantz, business development manager at Norafin. “With possible applications across a broad spectrum of end uses ranging from medical products through technical composites to protective apparel, non-wovens are set to play an increasingly more visible part in the technical textiles market.” Organised by Messe Frankfurt, Techtextil is the leading trade fair. Techtextil is present with five brand shows in significant markets such as China, India, Russia and the US. As emerging markets go, when it comes to the safety and security industry, Africa is a continent that holds tremendous potential for growth. This was evidenced at Intersec 2014, which witnessed 70 per cent more visitors from Africa over the previous show’s numbers. Around 1,213 exhibitors from 54 countries and more than 24,700 visitors from 156 countries visited the shows.
At Techtextil Middle East 2014, attendees discovered the immense potential of technical textiles, as well as their relevance and specific applicability to the safety and protection market
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
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APPAREL Africa and the Middle East
New ‘cutting’ edge methods rule the roost With the continuous development of numerically controlled cutting techniques, Niki Tait outlines what’s new in the market from some of the key suppliers
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LTHOUGH KNIFE CUTTING is the traditional and most used form of numerically controlled computerised cutting, there are alternative methods.
NC Knife cutting The textile industry has been using numerically controlled cutting techniques for several decades. These machines are being continuously developed and enhanced whilst new companies enter the market. The new Eastman Raptor models have been designed to meet the needs of clients in the apparel, industrial fabrics and composites industries cutting traditional textiles such as cotton, wool and denim, as well as modern technical materials like Kevlar, non-woven polyesters, foam-backed vinyl and other industrial fabrics. Newly engineered features include
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numerous design upgrades for improved operation of automatic multiple-ply cutting including heavyduty gantry design; improved access for maintenance and replacement of internal components and consumable items; sensors for monitoring optimum cycle speeds; while direct knife cooling improves cutting speeds and the ability to cut heavier-ounce materials. By applying a mix of technical characteristics and innovative materials, FK Group’s Top Cut 6 ‘Fast Revolution’ has been developed to accelerate both speed and productivity even when cutting particularly difficult materials. The automatic conveyor cutting system with six cm cutting head has been developed for small and medium production, with changes from multiple plies to single ply cutting taking only a few seconds. Features include medium electrical consumption of 5.5KW; “Ecopower“ intelligent vacuum
management for low power consumption; “Mectronics Blade Sense” automatic knife deflection correction; “EVO CUT” intuitive software for setting cutting parameters; a patented high speed sharpening system and “Vortec” refrigerated 0°C to 6°C knife cooling system for technical textiles/synthetics; together with remote technical assistance. FIAB produces technical textile cutting machines mainly designed to cut PVC and nonporous fabrics 0.05mm to 1.5mm in depth. Two rolls or more can be cut simultaneously but no more than five, using a conveyorised table. A very fine scalpel-like cutting tool is used, along with a pizza knife and ink drawing tool. LANTwec software takes the AutoCAD patterns to produce the marker, automatically applying margins required for welding purposes. Filiz Makina San ve Tic AS can cut multiple layers up to two to three cms in height using a flat table with air transferring material, as opposed to a bristle bed, which still uses vacuum to hold the fabric. It uses a high oscillating altitude combined with carbide knives which can be far thinner than steel, enabling fine detail and provide a very low co-efficient of friction. The cutting tables come in a range of sizes from 1.65 metres x 1.05 metres to 3.3 metres x 5 metres. The M Series from Gerber Innovations, part of Gerber Technology, is able to cut a wide range of technical textiles from very thin flexible fabrics to hard wood and aluminium. It is available in lengths up to five metres and widths up to 2.26 metres in a large range of sizes, and features advanced tooling, unobstructed table access, laser pointer, powerful vacuum hold-down, low-noise operation and a built-in safety beam. The T3 (Total Tooling Technology) head offers a full package of automatically identifiable tool inserts, including a bevel knife and 45º 3D cutting tool to address the demands of today’s packaging materials. The optional Mvision-cut optical system features accurate print-to-cut registration and compensates for skew and linear distortion. The Windows frontend graphical user interface offers all the tools for an independent off-line production system whilst maintaining compatibility with all major CAD systems. It is also available with an easy-to-use touchscreen option. The Kuris TexCut High Ply Cutter has been developed for manufactures changing from a manual to automated cutting and is said to be simple
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
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CUTTING enough for beginners. It is available in different models to cater for 25mm to 80mm compressed cuts. Applications include the garment, automotive, aviation and aerospace, furniture, construction, boat and railway industries. The bristle belt provides an effective cutting length of 2.2 metres, 3.5 metres or 4.5 metres. The maximum cutting speed is 45 metres per minute with positioning speed of 60 metres per minute. Automatic parallelism monitoring eliminates the need for subsequent manual alignment of the lay. Knives are available in a variety of sizes ranging from 1.2mm x 6mm to 3mm x 9mm and are available with different coatings while blades can be either serrated of saw grinding edges and consist of HSS or carbide. There is the option of a smart knife which provides automatic compensation of knife bending. Lectra’s Vector range, supported by powerful software and intuitive controls, includes appropriate models for automotive, fashion, furniture, and composite material manufacturers. Features include a cutting thickness of up to nine cm, vibration frequency of up to 6,000 vibrations per minute, user-friendly controls, an enhanced visibility management system and advanced integrated software for the automatic generation of activity reports. With a built-in cutting head camera, the user can locate a precise starting point. By using a colour-coded indicator system at the top of the chimney stack and LEDS on the cutting head, Vector automatically and continuously signals the machine status. Using intuitive touchcontrol technology the user is guided through the production process, while the real-time dashboard provides full visual management of the cutting process. Its onboard intelligence monitors machine behaviour, and offers a real-time interface to Lectra’s call centres. A completely new range of products make up the Macpi Group’s IMA EVO PLUS SERIES including the new cutting machine Formula Evo Plus 918. The use of the latest generation of electronics is designed to ensure complete digital control of each micro-operation providing the capability to adapt its technical and operational characteristics to the different types of fabric and ply height from single ply to six cm compressed, allowing constancy in cutting precision. It also enables maximum possible speed of execution with adjustment in the power absorbed by vacuum according to needs, offering great energy savings. The interactive touchscreen panel provides the operator with all machine functions. Designed for use in the apparel, upholstery, technical, automotive and aerospace industries, Pathfinder has recently introduced its new 3, 5, 7 or 10 cm lay height capacity M-series flexible material knife cutting system into the European market. The M-series machine is 99 per cent recyclable at the end of its useable life, has only one control circuit board assembly, and, the company claims, less than 50 per cent of the moving components of most competitors, meaning virtually no maintenance, while it’s digital vacuum system has been developed to significantly reduce
The SM-800-WJ from SMRE Engineering has been developed for the automated 2D or 3D cutting of a wide range of materials using pure water jet technology
power consumption. All its parts are produced internally at one location. Shanghai Yin Science and Technology Company Limited from China, established as recently as 2006, already offers an impressive production line integrating CNC cutting machines, intelligent spreading machines, CAD software, and leather cutting machines, rapid garment systems and threedimensional anthropological measuring systems. Its latest automatic cutting machine, the YIN HY-Q Series is aimed mainly at sportswear, knitwear, car interior trim parts and furnishing. The new speed response movement control system increases cutting speed. One body design is applicable to both fixed and conveyor models . A separated vacuum system provides for quieter running. The new Premium Cut ELC single ply cutter from TopCut Bullmer is claimed one of the fastest on the market with cutting speeds of up to 150 metres per minute. With no need for bottom paper or top plastics, the company claims it can cut a total trouser with 10 corners within seconds using a segmented knife. The single ply cutter can also be used for cutting carbon fibre and plastic foils, whilst using a router it can also cut wood and other solids including parts for aircraft. An inkjet printer can be added to the cutting head for marking, printing serial numbers, and other notations. If matching of fabric is required, there is an optional matching camera based system, as well as a cradle mechanism for preparing the next ply ready for cutting. Zund make modular based single ply cutters for the graphic, technical textiles, home textiles, packaging and upholstery industry. Cutting tools include straight knives, rotating knives, oscillating knives and routing tools, plus a creasing tool for the packaging industry. A camera system is incorporated to pre-scan what is to be cut. Cutters tables are available from 1300mm x 800mm to 3200mm x 3200mm. All flexible fabrics can be cut to a thickness of 50mm. The Electric Oscillating Tool (EOT) is designed for cutting soft and medium-density materials up to 28 mm/one-inch thick.
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
Laser Modern woven and spacer fabrics, as well as multilayers, fleece, needle fleece, glass fibre, thermo-resistant and other technical textiles can all benefit from being cut by laser, say eurolaser GmbH, who maintain that the contactless processing via the laser beam and the related nondeforming cutting and high precision, are crucial arguments for the use of laser technology. The laser beam has no tool wear, it does not need any work piece fixing, and offers high precision up to 1/10 mm while reducing or eliminating fraying especially when cutting mixed fibres. Eurolaser produces XY motion controlled laser cutters, with 40 per cent of its lasers being sold to the textile industry. These are mainly aimed at the filter and automotive industries for convertible tops, seats, and so on, as well as for synthetic sportswear and underwear where edge sealing is beneficial. Lasers used are up to 600-watt and tables come in widths up to 3.2 metres. The key benefit of laser is that it cuts and seals in one operation. At one metre per second, it can be faster than knife cutting and is contactless. Marker pens or ink markers can be added to the cutting head, just as with a knife cutter. With its ‘New Generation’ 3XL-3200, textile sheets up to 3,210mm wide can be processed. For roll material, an automatic conveyor material feed is available, feeding to the laser cutter directly from the roll and routed after cutting directly to a table extension, meaning cut sections can be almost endless. Bale material is fed via an automatic feeding unit in which the edge controller ensures accurate positioning of the material. There is also an option to add a winding unit to the Conveyor System. Gerber Technology offers the Keehwa Laser Cutting System available in static or conveyorised format and powered by Gerber Technology’s CutWorks software. The systems are powered using a sealed CO2 laser and integrate with most industry CAD packages. The Keehwa HiCUT C200 laser cutter designed with an integral
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CUTTING conveyor cutting table, automatic fabric feeder, and material off-load device, enables cutting and sealing of single-ply materials in one continuous process. A powerful vacuum system holds material firmly in place during laser cutting to ensure precision. The intelligent speed control system monitors productivity and adjusts as necessary. The laser is suitable for cutting a wide selection of fabrics and materials including those used for upholstery, airbags, jeans, paragliders, parachutes and others. The effective cutting area is 10,000mm × 1,800mm with a maximum cutting height of 3 to 5mm. The maximum carriage moving speed is 1,016mm/sec while the maximum cutting speed equals 508mm/sec with an accuracy of 0.05mm. Specially developed for technical textiles and composite materials, Lectra’s Focus laser cutting has been designed specifically for the filter market, which is characterised by a considerable diversity of materials to cut, thus requiring great flexibility in its production processes. This cutter, associated with the FocusPilot TechTex operating software, enables quality cutting, irrespective of the type of technical textiles and composite materials. The equipment is web-connected to optimise the communication with call centres allowing answers in real time. The company also offer laser cutting as an option for air-bag manufacturers.
Water Jet The Expert Systemtechnik waterjet cutting systems are characterised by the fact that they operate with extreme precision and cutting speed without changing the properties of the material to be cut. Synthetic leather, leather, plastic, cardboard, rubber and a host of technical materials can be cut using water jet technology with numerous advantages compared to mechanical cutting claimed, such as minimal water consumption, low tool wear and the extremely hardwearing cutting base resulting in minimal operating costs and environment friendly.The water jet provides for contactless cutting using XY coordinates at 70 metres per minute. It is a very thin jet, the material being cut does not get wet due to the small amounts used (0.2 litres of water per minute). The material sits on a steel mesh which the water passes through purely by speed, pressure and gravity without the need for any vacuum, and is still clean after cutting so needs no post
treatment. If synthetic leather is used up to ten plies thick can be cut. Up to 2/3-inch foam can also be cut on this machine. The main customer for this machine is the automotive, upholstery, textile, shoe or technical market involved with single ply cutting of customer specific orders. Repeatability lies at a constant +/0.2mm. The highly energised bundled jet of water is pressed out of a precious stone nozzle with a diameter of between 0.1 and 0.25 mm at a pressure of up to 3,800 bars, adjustable according to the material. The cutting speed lies between 70 and 120 m per minute. The combination of the jet of water and high cutting speed means hardly any moisture penetrates the material. Cutting accuracy remains constant during the entire cutting process as this is a non-contact cutting method. The high pressure and the fineness of the nozzle mean the material is cut into directly from above. There is, therefore, no mechanical displacement. A special cutting surface of steel honeycombs ensures that the leather cannot move after laying down. In addition, adhesion of the leather to the table can be increased by the use of water-soluble glue. The thickness of material which can be cut using water jet technology is determined by the nature of material. The SM-800-WJ from SMRE Engineering has been developed for the automated 2D or 3D cutting of a wide range of materials using pure water jet technology. Suteau Anver has introduced the Hydrojet water jet cutting machine. It includes a hydro-process high pressure generator and have been developed to cut materials such as rubber, textiles, leather, gaskets, foam materials, plastics, composites, floor coverings, rock wool, pre-impregnated carbon fibre fabric, and others. In terms of advantages over other processes, the company explains it can up to 150mm; homogenous, heterogeneous or composite materials can be cut; cold cutting emits no heat and has no impact on the structure of the materials; several cutting heads can be controlled simultaneously and the process is suitable for 2/3 or 5 axle systems, CN or robot controlled. With the Hydrojet 2020/2030/2040/2060 series of water jet cutting machines the stainless tank is built into the structure and the water level can be adjusted.
Combination
AD INDEX Brother Internationale ..................................9 Industrie Machinen GmbH Dilo Machines GmbH ................................19 Erhardt + Leimer GmbH ............................13 Loepfe Brothers Ltd. ..................................24 Monforts A. Textilmaschinen ....................11 Gmbh & Co Kg Staubli International AG................................2
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Top of the range from Blackman and White, developed for heavier duly industrial materials or applications with complex tooling requirements, the MasterCut 2200 provides a combination of versatility with rigidity and torsional strength. The MasterCut 2200 has the capability to simultaneously carry a laser, passive tooling (knife with steel or carbide blade, creasing and plotting pen), the ACTI-V or powered tooting suite (including driven wheel, vibratory blade, hot knife and 45 degree bevelled cutter), an ink jet printer for part marking, a plotter pen, a routing facility and a digital camera for part recognition. In addition, the MasterCut 2200 can be fitted with a
label printer and placer. Designed for those working with wide format digital printing, textile graphics or soft signage through to marine hypalon sanding, the machine comes in three different cutting widths (2.1m, 3.2m or 5m), or custom sizes to cut lengths of over 100 metres. The maximum cutting speed is 1500 mm/second. The Eastman M 9000 is a multiply cutter which can cut up to 7 cm high. Tool heads can be changed between a standard tool head which uses a pressure wheel; fibre tool for cutting foams and fibres such as cushion stuffing; heavy duty which can run 24/7; 200-watt laser for sealing edges, for example on airbags, window shades, parachutes etc.; router which can cut Ptex, for example, used for snowboard bases; leather cuter; inject and labelling system. Within the next six months an ultrasonic option will be available. The laser option has variable speed and wattage and can cut two to three times faster than a knife, with speeds up to 150 cm per second on a straight line. The table can be either static or conveyorised and the widest cutting machine can reach 6-7 metres. 95 per cent of machine problems can be rectified over the phone as Eastman can access the machines remotely via modem. Hauser, a company owned by Parker Automation have developed complete automated cutting solutions to suit each customer’s needs. These may include cross cutting, length cutting, and stacking of home textiles, upholstery, PE foams, paper, copper foils, non-wovens, laminates or all sorts of technical textiles including filter materials, pre-pregs and compounds, as well as nearly all flexible materials with material widths, which can be in excess of 1.82 metres. The main cutting system is flexible through its modular structure and multiple options which include strip rewinding, edge guiding, roll and pallet processing, continuous feeding for inline application, pallet feeding and A-frame unwinding. Cutting options include round knife, guillotines, ultrasonic and thermal cutting with ultrasonics. The Pathfinder L-series single-low ply automatic knife cutting system/cutter plotter has been developed for the technical textile industry. According to the company ‘the intuitive PathCut cutter control software provides the ultimate flexibility from a single operator interface without additional knobs, joysticks or control interfaces, providing ergonomics and ease of operationoptimizing efficiency of man and machine’. A check matching system is also available, as is inkjet and airbrush marking, the later used for foam and dimpled material where inkjet cannot be effectively used. Thus serial numbers, sewing lines, and other notations can be marked direct onto the fabric. For fabric which needs edge sealing the company offer a single ply ultrasonic cutter. As it explains, cutting is faster using the knife but although the ultrasonic head is more expensive, high-speed ultrasonic cutting can be a less expensive alternative where high production using many different types of synthetic fabrics is used. The knife and ultrasonic heads are interchangeable on the L-Series. ❑
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
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MOREOVER Industrial pollution can have devastating impacts on river systems and lakes that are vital to humans and wildlife
Dyeing water sources Urgent and transparent action is needed to eliminate the use and release of these hazardous chemicals into water bodies
I
NDUSTRIALISATION OF THE textile industry and use of a large variety of chemical treatments and dyes has resulted in health threat created by pollution. Around 17 per cent to 20 per cent of industrial freshwater pollution is caused by textile dyeing and treatment. Estimations state that 10 per cent to 15 per cent of total dyestuffs (equivalent to 280,000 tonnes of dyestuffs) used during the manufacturing of textile products is released into the environment worldwide annually. A recent survey by Greenpeace in 15 countries across the globe found that water scarcity and water pollution are the two top environmental concerns of the world’s population. There are a wide range of mostly organic compounds of complex structure used in the textile dyeing and finishing process. In regards to wastewater, dyestuffs may be classified into two groups — those that don’t undergo chemical reactions like acid, basic, direct, disperse, pigment and solvent; and those that undergo reactions like vat, sulphur and azoic. Of these, the processes involving reactive chemistry use chemicals that independently are non-toxic, but react with the other chemicals used in manufacturing to create a third substance which is toxic. This reaction can occur during various stages in the product lifecycle, and can vary greatly dependent not only on the dye compound created, but also on factors such as the fibre choice, fabric structure, or machinery used. Composite textile waste-water is characterised mainly by measurements of biochemical Oxygen Demand (BOD), Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) suspended solids (SS), and dissolved solids (DS). The majority of chemical use in textile finishing processes occurs during ‘wet processing’, such as dyeing, washing, printing and fabric finishing.
Textile dyeing and finishing mills use considerably more water than most — as much as 200 tonnes of water for every tonne of textiles produced According to surveys measuring natural resource use in all industries, textile dyeing and finishing mills use considerably more water than most — as much as 200 tonnes of water for every tonne of textiles produced. Many of the chemicals used in textile production are non-hazardous, but a relatively small proportion of these chemicals are potentially hazardous. However, in absolute terms, a considerably large number of hazardous chemicals are used in textile production due to the very large number of chemicals used. Textile wastewater contains many pollutants including acids, dispersants, alkalis, dyes, heavy metals, organic-chlorines, PBDE, PFOA, phthalates, pigments, salts, and many more. The release of these hazardous materials into public drains, which lead to rivers, streams, and eventually the ocean, alters the pH, and increases BOD and COD levels. According to the United Nations Environment Programme, “worldwide, it is estimated that industry is responsible for dumping 300–500mn tonnes of heavy metals, solvents, toxic sludge and other waste into waters each year.” In high-income countries, industrial pollution is said to be stabilising or decreasing. The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development reports that since the 1970s, highincome countries have reduced industrial discharges of heavy metals and other persistent
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2014
chemicals by 70 per cent to 90 per cent or more in most instances. However, this is not the case for economies in Africa, Asia and South and Central America, where pollution is expected to increase along with economic and industrial development. Decolourisation of textile wastewater is a common physiochemical method businesses use to minimise waste after the dying process has occurred, and before the water is released back into the environment. Some of these procedures include filtration, activated carbon, specific coagulation, chemical flocculation, oxidization, and with the use of light and hydrogen peroxide. Potato polyphenol oxidase is an example of an effective decolourisation treatment of textile wastewater for reactive dyes, it has been found to greatly reduce the levels of organic carbon released into the environment. Although many organic components of textile wastewater can be degraded and prevented from entering our waterways, due to the synthetic organic origin, and complex chemical structure of many others it is impossible to completely eliminate all pollutants created during the textile dyeing and finishing processes. Fairly, laws and regulations being put into effect require that manufacturers pay much greater attention to these processes which raise ethical concerns. Compliance with regulations can be costly to some firms, and in light of these, lawmakers often offer rewards and incentives to businesses for investing in green technologies and processes that will limit their emission of pollutants into waterways and the environment. However, expensive the treatment of wastewater is, it is vital for firms to realise that the cost of dumping untreated wastewater into our ecological systems in incalculable. ❑ Source: Stigmare.com
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