AFTEX 2 2015 - Cover_New_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:45 Page 1
ISSUE TWO 2015 DEUXIÈME EDITION 2015
ITMA 2015 - A preview ITMA 2015 - Un aperçu
Spotlight on Iran Digital Printing Anticounterfeit measures Pleins feux sur l'Iran L'impression numérique Mesures d'anticounterfeit
Interview with Charles Beauduin, president of CEMATEX
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CONTENTS Developments
4
News, updates and market reports
Développements
4
Les nouvelles, mises à jour et des rapports sur le marché
Spotlight on Iran
6
The latest from Iran’s textile industry
Pleins feux sur l'Iran
6
Le dernier de l'industrie textile de l'Iran
Digital Printing
12
Ian Holme discusses the growth of digital printing technology
ITMA 2015
16
ITMA 2015
16
Un round up de ce à quoi s'attendre au spectacle textile en Novembre
18
The president of CEMATEX on the future of the African textile industry
Anticounterfeit measures
12
Ian Holme discute la croissance de la technologie d'impression numérique
A round up of what to expect at the textile show in November
Interview with Charles Beauduin
L'impression numérique
Interview avec Charles Beauduin
18
Le président du CEMATEX sur l'avenir de l'industrie textile Africaine
20
Niki Tait highlights technology to mitigate textile counterfeiting
Cover: Dyes and chemicals Inset: ITMA 2015
Mesures d'anticounterfeit
20
Niki Tait met en évidence la technologie pour atténuer la contrefaçon de textiles
Couverture: Colorants et produits chimiques Inset: ITMA 2015
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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2015
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NEWS IN BRIEF Raymond plans entry into Africa, Middle East markets
TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER
INDIAN TEXTILE MANUFACTURER Raymond has announced plans to invest US$5mn to launch its products in the Middle East and Africa markets. The suiting fabrics company has said that it is in the process of seeking internal approvals for incorporating new overseas subsidiaries. Raymod is planning a wholly owned subsidiary in Dubai. The to-be-incorporated Dubai subsidiary will trade in textile, apparel and related products in the Middel East and Africa regions. In a note to India’s Bombay Stock Exchange, where the company is listed, Raymond also said that its existing wholly owned subsidiary, Silver Spark Apparel, based in Sharjah, will set up a garment manufacturing facility in Ethiopia in the Horn of Africa. “The company will make investment of up to US$5mn, in one or more tranches” to set up the facility in Ethiopia, said the statement from Raymond.
October 1-4
Modexpo
Bucharest, Romania
www.modexpo.ro
6 - 10
IFAI Expo Anaheim
California, USA
www.ifaiexpo.com
11 - 12
International Textile Fair
Dubai, UAE
www.internationaltextilefair.com
13 - 15
Inter Shanghai Apparel Fabrics
Shanghai, China
http://intertextile-shanghai-apparel-fabrics-autumn.hk.messefrankfurt.com/
21 - 23
Africa Sourcing & Fashion Week
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
www.asfw-online.com
November 4-6
Texworld
Istanbul, Turkey
www.messefrankfurtindia.in
Nigeria’s central bank steps in to support textile industry NIGERIA'S APEX BANK, the Central Bank of Nigeria (CBN) has initiated a programme aimed at reviving the country’s cotton, textile and garment (CTG) industry. Under the bank’s Real Sector Support Facility (RSSF), CBN would provide loans at low rates of interest (in single digits) to the CTG industry. During a meeting with representatives of the country’s textile and apparel industry in Lagos in August, CBN governor Godwin Emefiele said that the textile and clothing sector, which once had over 150 mills and employed more than one million people, was now completely dominated by imports from Asian countries. Seeking collective efforts from all the stakeholders involved and asking them to play their parts to bring the country’s CTG sector back to its past glory, Emefiele said the apex bank is ready to provide funding for the industry under RSSF.
Ethiopia’s cotton industry gets UK government funding THE UK GOVERNMENT, through its Department for International Development (DfID), is funding a 15-year cotton strategy for Ethiopia with the aim to have a new institutional arrangement for cotton development. Ethiopia’s Ministry of Industry has asked for international bids to hire consultants, and the chosen consultant will recommend an institutional arrangement that will be best for the cotton sector. The new institution will replace the Cotton Development Directorate at the Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute which has been unable to tackle the problems of rising demand, complexity of the increasing number of textile industries and supply value chain. The final strategy document is expected to be ready by January 2016.
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12 - 19
ITMA 2015
Fiera Milano, Italy
www.itma.com
12 - 14
Ethiopian International Textile Expo
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
www.ethiopiantextileexpo.com
24 - 26
ATF
Cape Town, South Africa
www.atfexpo.co.za
30 Nov - 3 Dec Yiwutex
Yiwu, China
www.yiwutex.com
January 18 - 19
Anteprima Milan
Milan, Italy
www.anteprima-fair.it
31 Jan - 2 Feb
Heimtexsuisse Bern
Bern, Switzerland
www.heimtexsuisse.ch
February 4-6
Istanbul Yarn Fair
Istanbul, Turkey
www.istanbulyarnfair.com
15 - 17
Asia Apparel Expo Berlin
Berlin, Germany
www.asiaapparelexpo.com
March 9 - 11
Kortex
Daegu, South Korea
www.kortex.or.kr
17 - 19
Eurostampi
Parma, Italy
www.mecspe.com
Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy (Commercial Office) of the country in question. Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2015
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Buhari likely to reverse decision on textile imports THERE ARE INDICATIONS that the new Nigerian President Muhammadu Buhari may revisit the decision taken by the previous administration that allowed import of textiles. An official in the Buhari government said that decision to remove textile materials from the list of banned items was taken in the final weeks of the earlier administration, led by Goodluck Jonathan, which sent a memo to the Nigerian Custom Service conveying the government’s decision on the issue. The source implied that there couldn’t be a dichotomy in what the government expected, as it spoke of employment generation on one hand and then allowed “cheap textile imports” on the other. Such a decision could hamper the local textile industry, which is already “comatose”, added the source. He went on say that the policy has to be reversed. Now, the Nigerian Customs Service has been asked to defend the volte face. “The textile sector is capable of generating employment if it is supported to thrive. The several textile industries in the north can create several employment opportunities if the textile sector is supported. That is what the present government intends to do,” he explained. Special Adviser to the President on media and publicity Femi Adeshina said that the government is committed to creating jobs in the country and “any thing that would enhance this position is welcome.” Late in June 2015, the Nigerian government had lifted the embargo on textiles. Nigeria Customs Service Comptroller General Alhaji Abdullahi Dikko said that Nigerians can now import textile materials subject to payment of the right duty. One of the leading economies of Africa, Nigeria has always supported the textile industry, which has been backed by cotton growers and dye-makers. Bright colours and patterns are a common sight in the south of Nigeria, whereas monochromes dominate the north of Nigeria. However, the increased import of textiles into the country has affected the local textile industry. Western clothes and outfits dominate customers’ choice, which hampers the weavers, cotton mill owners and dye manufacturers.
AGOA extension could catapult Africa’s textile export profit margin AFRICAN TEXTILE AND apparel imports to the USA could quadruple to US$4bn over the next decade, thanks to the Africa Growth and Opportunities Act (AGOA) trade programme. According to a US official, the new provision is giving Africa a significant edge over competitors such as Bangladesh and Vietnam. AGOA has been renewed and the programme, in which about 40 African countries are eligible to take part, has been extended for another 10 years. “Ten years is a game-changer,” With the renewal of AGOA, due 30 September 2015, textile said Gail Strickler, US’ assistant manufacturers are confident of investments coming in trade representative for textiles and apparel. “Africa should be able to quadruple its exports, literally without a lot of trouble, creating another 500,000 new jobs.” AGOA was established in 2000 and has already been renewed well past its initial expiry date in 2008. In 2014, sub-Saharan exports reached US$986mn, up nearly six per cent from 2013, as Lesotho, Kenya, Ethiopia and Tanzania participated in the programme. Due to lower labour costs and abundant raw material (such as Ugandan cotton), Africa was a favoured manufacturing destination. However, inadequate infrastructure brings the continent’s potential down. With the renewal, African officials are confident that fresh investment will follow suit. Kelebone Leisanyane, CEO of the Lesotho National Development Corporation, said the landlocked southern African nation, a top exporter under AGOA, is planning two new fabric mills. “I think for Lesotho, AGOA is critical and its renewal means the survival of many families, with around 35,000 workers in the apparel and textile industry,” he told Reuters. Taiwanese firm New Wide Garment, which has six factories in Kenya and one each in Lesotho and Ethiopia, also aims to expand. “Now with a 10-year extension, it means most of the investors will jump into Africa. We intend expanding more in Africa,” said the company’s Africa vice-president Heman Boodia.
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2015
Drop stitch matrix sensor
FE 5204 for ELCUT BT 2535 tube slitters
Ŷ Adaptive sensor Ŷ Detects a very wide range of drop stitches Ŷ Live image of the drop stitch on the color monitor Ŷ Operation via touch screen Ŷ Saving recipes is possible
ITMA hall 6, stand F108
Erhardt+Leimer GmbH Albert-Leimer-Platz 1 86391 Stadtbergen, Germany Telephone +49 (0)821 24 35-689 Telefax +49 (0)821 24 35-666 info@erhardt-leimer.com www.erhardt-leimer.com
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SPOTLIGHT
Better times ahead for Iran? The new ‘framework’ agreement to lift sanctions has buoyed the economy. But it remains to be seen how the textile and clothing industries will benefit. Robert Adams finds out
India and China continue to take advantage of the vibrant carpet industry in Iran, while the GCC nations remain embroiled in discussion over the sanctions. (Photo: astudio/Shutterstock)
T
HE SUCCESS OF negotiations with Western nations on lifting sanctions could result in more jobs and more investment for the struggling textile industries in Iran. This should be translated into more activity by the international garment traders of Dubai who rely on their huge northern neighbour for a substantial share of their business. This year it has been Indian garment exporters who have been benefiting most; next time round it could be suppliers of today’s much-needed textile machinery. Meanwhile, the patchwork of ad hoc trading arrangements, which have kept the Iranian industry (much of it publicly-owned despite the abundance of workshops turning out the world’s most highly prized carpets) alive in recent years, continues. According to WTO figures, these continue to maintain a positive balance of trade in basic textile products such as woven cotton fabrics. Prominent
6
“Ongoing discussions on economic sanctions are being kept warm due to alleged transparency by the USA.” among these have been the various deals worked out with India in recent years to barter some crude oil exports for products like foodstuffs and clothing, and secure deals on favourable rupeepayment terms. China has positioned itself well – in what is generally seen as an import market with enormous growth potential once the nuclear issue is resolved – in much the same way. However, the long drawn-out stalemate over economic sanctions, kept seriously warm because of the allegations of non-transparency by the USA,
and the differences of opinion believed to be held in Tehran, has frightened off other potential investors. Many (including UN members that took part in the Lausanne negotiations) would love an opportunity to trade with, and invest in, Iran’s struggling textile and clothing industries. They would happily sell today’s computer-controlled machinery too. These would usher in innocuous employment-creating opportunities that could not in any way advance Iran’s nuclear ambitions. Meanwhile, India and China have been creaming off the business. And the recent halving in the international price of oil has not helped in any way. Now the fear is that, when all is done and dusted later this year, certain other industrialised countries will be left in privileged positions when it comes to trading with Iran. This cannot be expected to go down well across the easilytraversed waters of the Gulf. ❑
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2015
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PLEINS FEUX SUR L’EGYPTE
Les réformes mises en place en Égypte seront-elles suffisantes ? La réforme globale du secteur de la transformation que le gouvernement a annoncé il y a quelques mois est censée ralentir les importations et freiner le délaissement de la production de coton à longue fibre par Robert Adams ANS UN CONTEXTE de protestation et de troubles sociaux relatifs à la baisse des subventions sur le carburant, le gouvernement a annoncé un plan majeur pour revitaliser le secteur public en difficulté de l’industrie de transformation du textile. Un problème se pose toutefois : les subventions et les renflouements inhérents à ce plan sont octroyés à l’industrie du filage et du tissage et non aux producteurs de coton en difficulté qui doivent payer le carburant de leurs tracteurs et d’autres frais. Les prix qu’ils perçoivent sont loin d’être satisfaisants. Il en résulte une baisse de production et de disponibilité locales en coton ultra-fin, les producteurs continuant à se détourner du coton pour privilégier d’autres cultures. Ceci se traduit par une hausse des importations en lin et autres tissus de qualité inférieure et en une perte de possibilités d’emploi dans le secteur de la transformation de base. Pourtant, le commerce textile est toujours florissant puisqu’il représente le deuxième marché industriel de l’Égypte bien que la surface consacrée à la culture du coton ait considérablement chuté en un demi-siècle. C’est pourquoi les entreprises commerciales du Caire et d’Alexandrie se demandent si « le programme de réforme annoncé l’été dernier est suffisant ». À première vue, si l’on tient compte des troubles sociaux que rencontre le pays, les industries textile et vestimentaire se portent étonnamment bien au sein d’un commerce mondial de plus en plus difficile. Selon les derniers chiffres* de l’OMC, les exportations de vêtements de l’Égypte se sont correctement maintenues au-dessus de 1,2 milliards de dollars américains à l’année
D
8
(contre 1,55 milliards de dollars américains en 2011) tandis que les importations devraient finalement cesser d’augmenter. De plus, le pays réalise un excellent surplus commercial annuel de 0,8 milliard de dollars américains grâce à ce secteur à forte densité de main d’œuvre, porté par les exportations vers l’Europe et les États-Unis. Les importations occidentales de vêtements de toutes les sources ont en réalité diminué l’an passé, de sorte que cet exploit est de taille dans une période trouble. Tandis que les exportations de textile ont continué de se développer de manière incertaine, passant de 1,29 milliards de dollars en 2010 à 1,37 milliards de dollars en 2012 avec un récent pic à 1,52 milliards de dollars entre les deux. De 2011 à 2012, le marché mondial total de ces produits de base a chuté de plus de 3 %. Au même moment, les importations de textile de l’Égypte ont continué de se maintenir plus ou moins au même niveau malgré des exportations supérieures à 0,9 milliard de dollars en 2012. Cependant, en 2000, l’Égypte importait pour à peine 0,2 milliard de dollars. En combinant les deux secteurs, il en résulte globalement que « si ce résultat n’est pas bon, il aurait pu être nettement pire ». Des conseillers externes disent depuis des années que l’industrie du filage et du tissage est trop dépendante du soutien du gouvernement si bien que la part des fibres locales dans le processus de transformation a continué de chuter. Les principaux
consommateurs, dont la plupart appartiennent à l’industrie des vêtements dominée par le secteur privé, ont opté, pendant ce temps-là, pour un approvisionnement à moindre coût et pour des sources de tissus plus fiables (ce point étant discutable), comme l’Inde et les régions orientales. Voilà l’orientation que suit le marché de la consommation. Les tissus pour chemises et la contexture élevée des tissus en provenance d’Égypte étant moins demandés en dehors de l’Europe, des ÉtatsUnis et (de plus en plus) des pays du Golfe. On peut ainsi se demander dans quelle mesure un autre programme de soutien pourra changer la situation, d’autant plus que les plans annoncés impliquent la relocalisation de certaines des plus grandes usines sous-performantes dans les zones industrielles en développement de sorte que l’espace qu’elles occupent puisse être réalloué au logement dans les métropoles grouillantes de vie. Il est toutefois à craindre qu’au lieu de relancer l’industrie textile, les nouvelles subventions soient englouties par la hausse des coûts relatifs à l’électricité et à la main d’œuvre ; ces problèmes majeurs étant déjà ceux auxquels l’industrie de transformation des fibres est confrontée. En l’absence de toute autre stratégie à long terme, la culture du coton en Basse Égypte pourrait disparaître. ❑ * Statistiques sur le commerce international 2013
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2ÈME EDITION/2015
S03 AFTEX 2 2015 - Spotlight_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:48 Page 9
Comfort is: Staying on top thanks to Rieter systems. Valuable systems that make you unique
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Please visit us at ITMA Milano 2015 Machines&Systems, After Sales: Hall 2, Booth A106 Com4速 Yarn: Hall 8, Booth D119
S04 AFTEX 2 2015 - Product News_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:49 Page 10
PRODUCT NEWS Oerlikon's solutions for HMLS yarn SWISS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS major Oerlikon launched safety and quality solutions for the HMLS polyester yarn, to be used in tire cord. Oerlikon Barmag is one of two companies worldwide that deliver machine solutions for the production of HMLS yarn. The material is tearresistant, and elastic, as well as as well as dimensionally stable at high temperatures. It is predominantly used in high-speed tires, which – as a result of the high speeds achieved – are subjected to particularly high loads. Here, strong polyester tire cord has almost completely replaced viscose fiber rayon for ecological reasons. The decisive benefit of HMLS yarns compared to alternative polyester yarns is the extreme dimensional stability of the high-performance yarn. As a result of contact with the road, tires are subjected to constant friction, which heats up the tires and consequently increases the internal air pressure. Therefore, the higher the speed, the higher the tire temperature and the pressure within the tire. The HMLS yarn acquires its unique properties in the spinning process. High speeds in the production process guarantee a stable arrangement of the molecules within the polymer, which forms the actual filament. The internal structure of the molecule chain is, in turn, decisive for the dimensional stability of the subsequent yarn. Manufacturing this material in an economical manner requires stable process technology and high-quality components. These determine the requirements for the spinning plant, the godets and the winders. The higher the spinning and winding speeds, the more sensitively the filaments react to even the smallest irregularities in the polymer melt, which can then quickly result in breaks in the filament. As in the case of all filament yarns, each yarn break impacts on the quality and sale price of the yarn packages.
Coats launches glow-in-the-dark thread COATS GROUP PLC, a leading industrial thread and consumer textile crafts business, has launched the Coats Signal thread. It is a specially developed premium reflective thread, designed to illuminate in the dark or low visibility conditions. The product, that was launched at Texprocess, has a high level of retro-reflection and is designed mainly for fashion applications, said the company. It is silver in colour and can be used as an embroidery thread to differentiate products by creating decorative reflective features in logos, stitching patterns and seams. While it is mainly decorative, when sewn on outdoor and active wear, it also helps enhance visibility at night time or in difficult weather conditions. Coats Signal thread combines the tenacity of a polyester filament cover with a retro-reflective core and has excellent strength and durability, added the company. The embroidery thread has a special lubricated finish to protect it from needle heat and ensure smooth sewing, so it retains its reflectivity after the intense sewing process during apparel production. When used in the top cover of flatseams, the combination of an intricate stitch formation and reflective property of the thread gives an eye-catching appearance to the seam which also adds a premium look to the product. Rajiv Sharma, global CEO, industrial at Coats Group plc said, “At Coats, we understand the production challenges apparel manufacturers can face when using innovative new types of thread. Using that knowledge, we have created a unique thread which can withstand the rigours of the sewing process and still retain its reflective functionality in the end product.”
Rieter opens state-of-the-art research centre in China RIETER HAS INAUGURATED the first Application & Research Centre for Spinning Technology in China, considered to be among the most advanced centres in the world. Officials said that the facility will contribute towards further positive development of the Chinese spinning industry. Rieter group CEO Norbert Klapper said, "The new spinning centre offers our customers not only a unique new service, but also makes a significant contribution towards the further positive development of the Chinese textile industry." The new spinning centre in China is equipped with all four significant spinning processes, modern machines, a laboratory, as well as training rooms and showrooms. Consultation is provided by experienced textile technologists. Customers and fibre producers can test their products and also obtain advice on complex technological issues. In addition, the globally unique centre offers training of internal and external specialists. Main focal points deal with the use and maintenance of modern spinning mills, the development and marketing of yarns as well as yarn and fibre measuring, yarn application and fabric development. Optimal manufacturing costs with consistent yarn quality are the alpha and
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Employees sample a new spinning machine in China. (Photo: Rieter)
omega for successful spinning mills. To achieve this, cutting-edge technology, the appropriate know-how and a high level of expertise are indispensable. All Rieter technology locations are closely linked and
maintain an ongoing exchange of information. With the spinning centre in Changzhou, Rieter's global technology know-how is now also available to customers in China and the surrounding countries.
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2015
S04 AFTEX 2 2015 - Product News_Layout 1 18/09/2015 10:49 Page 11
Loepfe yarn clearers to prevent Moiré effect THE 3N1 AND 1N1 yarn clearers from Loepfe utilise an optical sensing technology to detect yarn faults, such as the Moiré effect, in open-end spun yarns. Both clearers cover open-end yarn counts from 3 Nec to 60 Nec at a maximum spinning speed of up to 400 metres per minute with one sensing head. Compared to 1N1, the 3N1 offers an additional detector for foreign matter and a triboelectric sensor for detection of synthetic foreign matter.
The yarn clearer type 3N1 from Loepfe detects periodic yarn faults in open-end spun yarns in a fast and reliable way. (Photo: Loepfe)
The optical sensing technology is immune to changing humidity levels, which can occur quite often in spinning mills. Other environmental factors like changing temperatures have no effect on the sensor either. The central unit provides and analyses all quality and production related data on its large touch screen. Periodic faults which could result in Moiré effect, and which cannot be detected during subsequent laboratory quality control, are visualised as well. In general, the use of a yarn clearer eliminates the need for laboratory quality controls of the spun yarn. Users have the advantage of 100 per cent quality control and fast reaction times.
Fabric that doubles up as a solar cell RESEARCHERS AT THE University of Wisconsin-Madison in the US have started work on a new solar textile technology. Marianne Fairbanks, an assistant professor in university’s School of Human Ecology’s design studies programme and co-founder of Noon Solar, a company that makes solar-charging handbags, is working with Trisha Andrew, who is an energy researcher and assistant professor of chemistry at the university. Combining their respective expertise in design and chemistry, their collaboration has the potential to bring together the early stages of technologies from the laboratory with the actual manufacturing process. “There’s no one out there, there’s no designer working with a device person trying to do this and that’s what really excites me about this project even today,” says Andrew. Fairbanks and Andrew have been given a grant by Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation, and have begun their experiments with different ways to create solar textiles. One of the projects they are working on involves graduate student Lushuai Zhang who is using vapour phase chemistry to coat different fabric weave types and structures with a polymer that increases its conductivity. Adding two layers of dyes and another electrode will make it into a complete solar cell. Another project, based on Fairbanks’ knowledge of weaving, attempts to create spools of thread for each of the four components required in the first project. The resulting threads could be woven together to make a fully functional solar device. Using results from both the projects, the two collaborators hope to have a prototype for a solar fabric ready by the middle of next year. After that, it will probably take a few more years before the fabric can be used for creating usable and wearable technologies.
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2015
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PRINTING
The Digital Advantage Digital printing is changing the way fabrics are printed around the world. The technology is still a tiny share of the global fabric printing market but could soon be the next big thing. Ian Holme brings us up to speed with the latest developments.
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N 2015, THE global fabric printing market is still dominated by traditional (analogue) printing methods, mainly using rotary and flat screen technologies. In 2011, the major printing countries for screen printed fabrics were China (30%), India (17.5%), other Asian countries (18.8%), Americas (12.9%), Europe, Russia, CIS (11.1%) while the Middle East and African countries contributed the remaining 9.7 per cent of the global total. In 2013, this market amounted to some 29bn sqm and could rise to 32bn sqm over the next few years if global economic activity increases. The colourants used in screen printing are dominated by pigments which make up about 50 per cent of the total colourants used globally. Applied with a binder (cross-linker) and softener, pigments can be used to print any fibre substrate, including the important area of fibre blend fabrics. Up to 55 per cent of blended fabrics are estimated to be composed of polyester/cellulosic fibres and the advances in softer handling screen pigment printed fabrics have helped to maintain the dominance of this approach. Pigments are used for screen printing home furnishings, fashion, outdoor and some technical textiles like camouflage fabrics. The next most important class of colourants is reactive dyestuffs which are used in about 20 per cent of screen prints, followed by disperse dyestuffs (15%), vat dyestuffs (8%) and acid/other dyestuffs (7%). Reactive dyestuffs are used in fashion, bed linen and camouflage fabrics. Disperse dyestuffs are mainly used in printed polyester swim suits, automotive seat fabrics and other technical textile applications. Vat dyestuffs are used in fashion and camouflage fabrics, while acid/other dyestuffs are employed in printing fashion fabrics, nylon swim suits, as well as flags and banners.
Digital printing accounts for only about two per cent of global fabric printing but is a rapidly growing sector. Slower processes of hand block printing, stencil and hand screen printing processes are now largely confined to highly specialised fabrics and craft end uses. Engraved roller printing is used mostly in some countries in Asia on narrower fabric widths
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Digital inkjet printing is the fastest growing sector in the textile printing industry. (Photo: Amnarj Tanongrattana/Shutterstock)
compared with those that can be printed using rotary or flat screen printing techniques. Dry-heat (sublimation) transfer printing is now used mainly for garments and flags and banners. Rotary screen printing machinery can print fabrics up to five metres in width and up to 24-36 colours, although most print designs are composed of less than eight colours. Automatic or semiautomatic flat screen printing machinery is used for many high precision designs but the printing speed is slower than for rotary screen printing. The most rapidly growing sector of textile printing is considered to be digital printing using inkjet technologies. The cumulative annual growth rate of digital inkjet printing is estimated to be 2530 per cent (excluding China), compared with less than three per cent for screen printing. In 2012, the amount of digital inkjet printed fabric was estimated to be in the range of 600-700mn sqm and it could well exceed one billion square metres. If advances in technology continue to increase the production rates of digital printing machinery, even that figure could well be an underestimate. Digital printing acounts for only about two per cent of global fabric printing, compared with
rotary screen (65%), automatic flat screen (25%), transfer printing (4%), hand printing (3%) and copper roller printing (<1%), but by 2017, it could increase to five per cent of printed fabric production. In 2012, the estimated makeup of end uses for digital printing were signage, flags and banners (41%), fashion apparel (43%), home textiles (8%) and sportswear (8%). An advantage of digital inkjet printing is that it enables high quality designs like photographic designs to be printed, something not achievable via screen printing technology. Digital inkjet printing is ideally suited to the fast fashion industry because it can provide quick response to changing fashion demands and also can be used to support mass customisation technology. Digital printing can also be used for sampling purposes to speed up product development.
PRINT HEAD DEVELOPMENTS The major developments in the design of print heads for inkjet printing are the introduction of novel print heads with an increased number of nozzles per head coupled with an increase in the firing frequency, i.e., the number of ink droplets
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PRINTING emitted per second. Both these developments will facilitate higher production speeds, important for roll-to-roll fabric printing machinery. Increasing the number of print heads in a print bar or developing print heads with more nozzles in an individual print head will increase printer productivity. From 2003 onwards, most print heads had a nozzle density of 512 nozzles per print head but this has steadily increased over the last five years. Print heads with 1,024 nozzles per head have become more common and the introduction of the Kyocera KJ4B print head has increased the nozzle density to 2,656 nozzles per print head. Increasing the nozzle density allows the use of fewer print heads and the use of more compact print bars. This makes the printing machine more reliable by reducing the possible points at which failure can occur. Additionally, the use of more compact carriages on scanning machines enables lighter frames that exert less stress on the print system.
DIGITAL PRINTERS SPG Prints has unveiled a new single pass digital printer to be launched at ITMA 2015 in Milan. Called Pike, it incorporates a full-width array of Fujifilm Samba print heads in an Archer print bar. The Archer technology has been engineered to accurately jet ink droplets across distances much greater than normally found in competitive print heads. For example, the Kyocera KJ4B print heads are typically 1.5 mm away from the fabric surface to be printed, while SPG Prints' Archer technology is typically about four millimetres away. This has the important effect of reducing the possibility of a
Higher nozzle density in ink jet printers allows the use of fewer print heads and more compact print bars. This makes the printers more reliable by reducing the potential points of failure. 'head strike' where the fabric touches the print head, a common cause of damage to print heads which are expensive to replace. The greater distance from the fabric surface could lead to the formation of a mist during jetting and SPG Prints has developed Pike Reactive inks to eliminate this potential problem. The first SPG Prints Pike printer will have a set of six Archer print bars, each containing 43 print heads to allow fabric printing over a width of 1.85 m. With a print resolution of 1,200 x 1,200 dpi and a jetting frequency of 32 kHz, typical printing speed is expected to be around 40 metres per minute. The maximum speed will be around 75 metres per minute with the print droplet sizes ranging between 2-10 picolitres. The Archer print bars will be built in modules of three so that the fabric printer will have the option to print three, six and nine colours. Colorjet (India), a manufacturer of wide format digital printers, has introduced three new digital inkjet printing machines, Softjet Grand, Vastrajet and Fabjet Grand. Softjet Grand is aimed at the soft signage sector, such as flags and banners which are directly printed on polyester-based fabrics that are recyclable. Vastrajet is designed for the whole of the digital textile printing sector, both for sampling and for commercial purposes.
MS Italy has recently sold its first MS-LaRio single pass machine which was shown printing seven colours at a speed of 31.7 linear metres per minute in a video at ITMA 2011. Atexco (China) is also to introduce a single pass digital printer with 1,200 dpi print resolution. Atexco also produces Vega 3000 and Vega 7000 digital printers. Vega 7000 incorporates 32 Kyocera KJ4B print heads, can attain a print output of up to 1,000 sqm per hour amd can print widths of up to 3.4 metres. Figarol (France) has developed the first five metre-wide dye-sublimation printer, Figatex 5000. This has been developed from an ultraviolet machine in a partnership with a digital ink manufacturer Sawgress. Figatex 5000 uses aqueous dye sublimation inks printing CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow and black) using 16 Ricoh print heads. Arioli (Italy) has launched its first production scale roll-to-roll digital textile printer series with the ArioPrint-8 and AvioPrint-16 scanning printers that have eight print heads in two rows and 16 print heads in four rows respectively. They use Kyocera's two-colour KJ403T print heads which can deliver 348 sqm per hour in two-pass, 1,200 x 1,200 dpi production mode, or up to 750 sqm per hour using one-pass, 300 x 300 dpi on fabrics with a printing width of 200 cm.
INK DEVELOPMENTS
An advatage of digital printing is its use for printing small sample quantities which can help speed up product development. (Photo: Amnarj Tanongrattana/Shutterstock)
AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO 2015
DuPont has introduced its novel Artistri Brite digital textile inks which have been engineered to provide a step change in colour saturation and speed and advanced DTG printing. The DuPont Artistri Brite inks provide a visible difference with up to 40 per cent improvement in colour compared with the previous generation of DTG inks. These new inks have been designed to provide colours for new generation printers that can print up to three times faster than the current technology. Artistri Brite inks can also be cured in automated gas convection ovens which eliminates the need for manual hand presses. These novel inks are supposed to be easy to use with an ink formulation whose pH balance minimises print head problems such as clogging. Kiian Digital has launched three new vivid fluorescent dye sublimation transfer inks, namely, green, yellow and pink inks as part of its Digistar range. These offer exceptional graphics quality on striking sportswear and other textile prints. The ink formulations offer good drying properties and a high chromatic performance. These complement Kiian's Digistar PES HD-One for earlier Epson print heads, Digistar Hi-Pro inks engineered for the latest DX7 heads and Digistar K-One transfer sublimation inks designed for use on the high capacity Kyocera print heads. â?&#x2018;
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teintures et produits chimiques
Teintures et produits chimiques prêts pour la croissance par Ian Holme A PRODUCTION DE teintures et de produits chimiques destinés aux produits textiles est liée à la croissance du marché des fibres textiles. L’étude mondiale récente de Fiber Organon a mis en évidence que la production mondiale de fibres manufacturées a augmenté en 2013 pour atteindre 63,8 millions de tonnes, soit une hausse d’environ 5,8 % (3,5 millions de tonnes) par rapport à 2012. D’une manière générale, la production mondiale de fibres textiles a augmenté de 2,7 % (2,4 millions de tonnes) pour atteindre 90,9 millions de tonnes. La production de fibres synthétiques et de fibres cellulosiques a augmenté respectivement de 5,3 % et de 12,2 % pour atteindre 59 millions de tonnes et 4,8 millions de tonnes. De plus, le Lenzing Group a développé sa production de fibres Tencel Lyocell pour atteindre 220 000 tonnes par an en 2014. La force dominante des fibres manufacturées se situe en Asie, cette région ayant contribué en 2013 à la production mondiale de fibres manufacturées à hauteur d’environ 87 %. La Chine a représenté 64 %, suivi de l’Inde 7 % et de Taïwan 3,5 % tandis que les États-Unis ont représenté 4 % et l’Europe occidentale 3,2 %. Les principales fibres à l’échelon mondial restent le polyester et le coton. C’est pourquoi de nombreux développements en matière de teintures et de produits chimiques cibleront la teinture de ces fibres. Les fils continus de polyester (31,3 millions de tonnes) et les fibres discontinues de polyester (15,4 millions de tonnes) ont connu des taux de croissance de 8 % et 2 %, respectivement, en 2013. La production mondiale de polyester est passée à 46,7 millions de tonnes, marquée par une hausse de 2,46 millions de tonnes ou 6 % en un an. Par conséquent, les fibres de polyester comptent pour environ 73 % de la production totale de fibres manufacturées. Les fibres naturelles (coton et laine) ont enregistré une baisse d’environ 4 % pour atteindre 25,6 milliards de tonnes et 1,1 million de tonnes, respectivement. La principale collusion qui résulte des statistiques met en évidence que les teintures et produits chimiques relatifs à la teinture des fibres de polyester et du coton et d’autres fibres cellulosiques (comme la viscose, le modal et le lyocell) continueront de dominer le marché. Les colorants dispersés des fibres de polyester ont été regroupés en fonction de leur application finale, en termes de résistance requise des couleurs à la lumière, de traitements par voie humide et de frottement (résistance aux frottements). Certaines statistiques sur les teintures publiées par Atul Ltd (Colors Division) Valsad, Gujarat, Inde, indiquent que les colorants réactifs comptent désormais pour environ 60 % des teintures utilisées pour les textiles domestiques fabriqués à partir de fibres cellulosiques. Les couleurs Vat (12 %), Indigo (9 %), Direct (9 %), Sulphur (8 %) et Naphthol (2 %) constituent la part restante. Les colorants clairement dispersés et réactifs continueront d’occuper une place majeure dans les développements futurs des fabricants de teinture. Dans le domaine de la fabrication des teintures, SK Capital a finalisé l’acquisition des activités Textile Chemicals, Paper Specialities et Emulsions de Clariant. Société d’investissement privé, SK Capital a combiné ces trois divisions pour créer Archroma, une entreprise intégrée axée sur la collaboration et le marché. Archroma a récemment pris l’initiative d’acquérir 49 % des actions du fabricant de colorants M. Dohmen SA, qui fabrique des teintures et des produits chimiques pour les secteurs automobile, du revêtement et de l’habillement. M Dohmen possède des usines de production en Suisse, en Allemagne et en Corée, ainsi que des réseaux de vente aux États-Unis et en Italie. Ce nouveau
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Research and Markets a publié un autre rapport sur les prévisions et les opportunités du marché des produits chimiques pour matières textiles en Inde d’ici 2018
partenariat entre Archroma et M Dohmen devrait élargir le portefeuille de produits composites et développer de nouveaux marchés pour les teintures et produits chimiques, notamment en Asie et en Amérique Latine. Un rapport sur le marché mondial des teintures et des pigments réalisé par MarketsandMarkets, une entreprise de conseil et de recherche sur le marché mondial basée aux États-Unis, a estimé que la consommation de colorants va augmenter suivant un taux de croissance annuel cumulatif (TCAC) de 3,6 % pour atteindre 11 millions de tonnes métriques d’ici 2018. La région Asie-Pacifique constituera le principal demandeur en colorant, du fait de l’importance de la classe moyenne dans les pays en voie de développement comme la Chine et l’Inde. Entre autres facteurs qui affectent la demande en teintures et pigments figurent les niveaux de dépenses des consommateurs, le style de vie des populations et une préférence marquée vers l’utilisation de couleurs différentes. L’industrie textile est le principal débouché des colorants. Global Industry Analysts Inc (États-Unis) a indiqué que l’industrie textile représente environ 70 % de la demande totale en colorants. Cependant, l’utilisation de pigments dans l’industrie textile relève principalement de l’impression textile et de la pigmentation de masse des fibres manufacturées. La Chine et l’Inde devraient constituer les principaux marchés des pigments et colorants organiques. MarketsandMarkets conclut que le marché mondial des pigments, qui comprend les revêtements, les plastiques, le papier, les encres d’impression et les textiles, devrait connaître un taux de croissance annuel cumulatif de 4 % entre 2013 et 2018. Toutefois, l’industrie manufacturière des colorants est confrontée à des problèmes comme la surcapacité mondiale, des lois environnementales plus strictes et la nécessité de se conformer au règlement REACH dans l’Union européenne. Research and Markets a publié un autre rapport sur les prévisions et les opportunités du marché des produits chimiques pour matières textiles en Inde d’ici 2018 (India Textile Chemical Market Forecast and Opportunities, 2018). Le marché actuel des produits chimiques pour matières textiles en Inde est très fragmenté. Il compte quelques 300 entreprises de différentes tailles. Cependant, d’ici 2018, une préférence plus marquée pour les produits de qualité associée à une pénétration de marché grandissante des textiles techniques devrait
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teintures et produits chimiques diminuer les parts de marché détenues par les entreprises plus petites. Les grandes entreprises internationales comme BASF, Archroma et Huntsman s’intéressent de plus en plus aux innovations dans le domaine des produits chimiques pour matières textiles. Leur principale stratégie : se concentrer sur les produits respectueux de l’environnement, ainsi que sur les produits haut de gamme qui confèrent des propriétés fonctionnelles aux matières textiles. Les bio-auxiliaires sont de plus en plus utilisés, de même que les produits chimiques respectueux de l’environnement, afin de réduire la charge de pollution globale émanant des unités de traitement par voie humide des textiles. La croissance rapide de l’industrie textile et de l’habillement en Inde est également accompagnée par la mission technologique du gouvernement indien, désireux de soutenir les nouvelles entreprises en leur apportant des connaissances sur les textiles techniques. Les non-tissés constituent un secteur de développement important sur le marché des textiles techniques. La Gherzi Textile Organisation de Zurich, Suisse, une entreprise de conseil mondiale incontournable, a mis en évidence les cinq principaux moteurs de la croissance des applications en non-tissé. Il s’agit de : ● la croissance de la population mondiale qui s’accompagne d’une demande en produits d’hygiène, applications médicales et biens de consommation ; ● l’industrialisation des marchés émergents qui s’accompagne d’une hausse de la demande en automobiles, géotextiles et vêtements de protection ; ● l’industrialisation accrue de l’agriculture (protection des semences, paillage, drainage et ombrage) ; ● la relocalisation des usines dans les zones de filtrage, vêtements de protection, membranes de toit et géotextiles ; et ● une prise de conscience croissante de l’environnement qui pousse à recourir davantage aux produits de filtrage, aux absorbants d’huile et à l’enfouissement des déchets. La production de colorants et pigments organiques dépend des produits chimiques intermédiaires obtenus à partir des produits chimiques primaires dérivés de l’industrie pétrochimique. Au sein de l’Union européenne, les teinturiers et les imprimeurs de textiles ont dû faire face à une hausse de prix jusqu’à 80 % en 2014. Ceci découle de l’instauration, par les organismes de réglementation en matière d’environnement, de normes plus strictes en matière d’eaux usées, notamment en Chine. Cette nouvelle réglementation a entraîné l’arrêt de nombreuses unités de production. La forte diminution de la capacité de production restante a conduit à des pénuries en produits chimiques intermédiaires en Chine et en Inde et à une hausse considérable des prix des colorants. Les produits chimiques intermédiaires comme l’acide H, l’acide bromaminique et l’anthraquinone ont été particulièrement affectés. Les fournisseurs restants auraient donc augmenté leurs prix de 167 à 447 %. Les principales catégories de colorants touchées par la hausse des prix comprennent les colorants directs et réactifs pour les fibres cellulosiques associés aux colorants dispersés pour le polyester et aux colorants à complexe métallifère ou acide pour les fibres de laine. Si les teinturiers et les imprimeurs détenant une PME au sein de l’Union européenne ne peuvent pas augmenter leurs prix finaux, il pourrait en résulter quelques faillites. Huntsman Textile Effects a développé sa gamme Lanaset de colorants pour inclure des teintes supplémentaires pour la laine et les tissus maillés en polyamide. Les colorants Lanaset PA offrent des mélanges trichromatiques reposant sur une base ton sur ton flexible pour obtenir la teinte correspondante. Les colorants Lanaset PA sont faciles à appliquer pour obtenir des teintes profondes. De plus, sur les microfibres en polyamide, le processus de teinture est simple, économique et efficace. Les colorants Lanaset PA sont conçus pour offrir d’excellentes performances sur les vêtements d’extérieur et de sport, y compris les coupe-vents, les combinaisons de ski, les vêtements d’alpinisme, les maillots de bain et la lingerie. Ils conviennent aux tissus laminés car ils ne requièrent aucune étape de fixation dans la plupart des cas. Les colorants Lanaset ont été développés pour garantir leur tenue dans l’eau chlorée de
TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2ÈME EDITION/2015
sorte qu’il n’est plus nécessaire d’appliquer un adjuvant spécifique pour améliorer la résistance au chlore. Archroma s’est récemment concentrée sur la teinture durable des jeans grâce à ces colorants Optisul C à base de soufre associés à des pigments Printofix T sélectionnés pour obtenir différents effets délavés. L’utilisation de colorants Optisul C est plus simple que les techniques actuelles et l’application dans le cadre d’un processus de séchage au foulard permet de supprimer la consommation d’eau par rapport à la teinture des tissus à base de laine. Il est possible de combiner l’utilisation de ces colorants avec des résines pour obtenir des finitions et des touchers tout en nuance sans nuire à l’aspect final décontracté. La technologie Advanced Denim d’Archroma repose sur les procédés Denim-Ox et Pad Sizing-Ox. Ces procédés sont conçus pour réduire la consommation d’eau jusqu’à 92 % et les déchets de coton de 87 %. En outre, il a été démontré que ce procédé permet de réaliser jusqu’à 30 % d’économie sur le coût énergétique par rapport au procédé traditionnel utilisé pour le denim. Un agent de blanchiment fluorescent novateur à base de stilbène a été introduit par Huntsman Textile Effects pour permettre au traitement des textiles par voie humide de répondre à des normes très élevées en matière de blanchiment des fibres cellulosiques. L’Uvitex BHA LIQ est un agent de blanchiment à base de stilbène à affinité élevée qui offre une stabilité et une résistance inégalées aux acides. Il ne pose pas les problèmes rencontrés avec les autres agents de blanchiment à base de stilbène à l’origine d’une coloration verdâtre après la neutralisation ou la définition d’un pH acide. L’Uvitex BHA LIQ est conçu pour satisfaire les normes élevées en matière de blancheur des marques internationales pour les serviettes, les vêtements tricotés, les T-shirts, les sous-vêtements et les autres articles fabriqués à partir de fibres cellulosiques. L’Uvitex BHA LIQ présente une stabilité élevée aux acides avec un pH entre 4 et 5, et une résistance élevée avec un pH inférieur à 4. Ce nouveau produit propose une gamme de blanc du neutre au légèrement bleuté présentant une excellente résistance au lavage et à l’usage. Autre caractéristique importante de ce nouvel agent de blanchiment, il réduit le risque de jaunissement phénolique. L’Uvitex BHA LIQ est applicable au moyen des méthodes d’application par épuisement et convient parfaitement aux systèmes de blanchiment discontinu au peroxyde d’hydrogène, ainsi qu’au blanchiment réducteur. Utilisable avec les systèmes de dosage automatique, cet agent de blanchiment fluorescent se caractérise par un épuisement du bain très élevé, d’où une réduction de la pollution des eaux usées. De même que les autres produits Uvitex, l’Uvitex BHA LIQ figure sur la liste positive « Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC - aucun déversement de produits chimiques dangereux) » de Huntsman et peut donc être utilisé par les entreprises qui ont signé la feuille de route commune du ZDHC. Sarex Chemicals (Mumbai, Inde) a lancé un nouvel agent d’écoulement/de dispersion pour les colorants destinés au polyester, le Dyewell-PES. Cet agent de dispersion et d’écoulement concentré et peu moussant améliore la migration des colorants dispersés afin d’obtenir un meilleur niveau de teinture. Le Dyewell-PES est conçu pour contrôler le taux de dispersion du colorant obtenu dans des conditions de teinture inverse afin de parvenir à une coloration uniforme. La présence de Dyewell-PES n’affecte par la teinte requise. Le Dyewell-PES est utilisé à raison de 0,3 à 0,5 g/l dans la teinture par épuisement des rubans, fibres, fils et tissus en polyester et pour corriger une teinture défectueuse (1 à 1,5 g/l, le cas échéant). Sarex Chemicals a également lancé un nouveau produit spécialisé de prétraitement pour les impressions numériques à jet d’encre, le Sarasol1101. Ce produit unique a été conçu pour améliorer la valeur de la couleur pendant l’impression à jet d’encre sur tous les types de tissus avec des colorants dispersés, réactifs et acides. Le Sarasol-1101 augmente la viscosité localisée de l’encre tout en évitant la dilution et la dispersion des couleurs pendant l’impression. Le Sarasol-1101 n’affecte pas le toucher du tissu et améliore la planéité et la netteté de l’impression. Enfin, le Sarasol-1101 est également stable face aux agressions bactériennes. ❑
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itmA 2015
A packed agenda for ITMA 2015 ahead of the largest textile expo set to take place in Italy, organisers give us the lowdown on the various exhibitors, their new products to be presented at the show and special events that are meant to engage various members of the global textile industry
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At ITMA 2011, there were 1,355 exhibitors from 45 countries, with 100,067 visitors from 140 countries. There were 700 attendees that attended the conferences, said organisers.
ome November aNd milan will host the largest textile show, ITma. at the Fiera milano rho between 12 and 19 November, ITma 2015 will witness leaders in textile and garment manufacturing technologies converge and share their ideas and innovations more than 100,000 visitors are expected at the eight-day event. There has been considerable curiosity since the last ITma was held in 2011. Four years is a long enough time for exhibitors to show what they have to offer to the industry, feel experts. Groz-beckhert will display its new booth concept with machines made of acrylic glass. For the first time, the new product sector Carding will also be represented. German textile dyeing major Thies is expected to showcase its new dyeing machine Icone, ideal for bleaching and dyeing fibres in different forms. Crealet, a leading manufacturer of electronically-controlled warp feed systems for weaving machines, will promote a new offer in specialised weaving machine manufacture. oerlikon, through its barmag and Neumag competence brands, will present its latest at ITma 2015. oerlikon barmag will showcase its breakthroughs in PoY/dTY, FdY and IdY filament spinning and texturing, as well as the manufacture of monofilaments. oerlikon Neumag will concentrate on its bCF, staple fibre and nonwovens core competencies and present all interested visitors with the latest product developments by means of its virtual reality technology in the 3d showrooms. “In a market that is proving to be increasingly difficult, we will set new trends with our innovations and once again change the markets,” said andré Wissenberg, head of marketing, corporate communications and public affairs.
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German knitting solutions specialist Stoll is set to showcase new possibilities with its flat knitting technology. In addition to existing machines from its current product range, some new models will be introduced, including the ultra-flexible CmS adF range. Germany's Trützschler's spinning division is expected to display processes and solutions designed to improve efficiency. one such is the Superlap, which requires less personnel, as well as the Toyota-Trützschler comber. The company's nonwovens division will display manufacturing processes, especially web bonding. Innovations in spunlacing, needling and thermal/chemical bonding will be on display. The modular aquaJet is a patented drying process for the thermobonder, which Trützschler is likely to display at the show. as an offshoot of textile and dye, ITma will also witness the launch of new technologies to support the practices. France’s velvet Jet is set to unveil new solutions for digital textile printing that could especially come in handy for garment manufacturers. Santex aG Switzerland brand Cavitec will be showing its new CavImeLT P+P streamlined machine – designed to be precise, achieve high production and cost effectiveness in hotmelt coating and laminating through the rotogravure system. Konica minolta will launch the Nassenger SP-1, a high-productivity, highresolution inkjet textile printer that employs a single pass system, characterised by high speed, resolution and productivity. Prior to the show, the company is providing demos at its Italian sales subsidiary this month on. Show space was booked out a year ago, leading to the organisers having to add another hall for exhibitors. Charles beauduin, president of CemaTeX, the european Committee of Textile machinery manufacturers, which owns ITma, said, “The demand for space has been very strong.
The eleventh hall will house the fibre and yarn, research and education, colourants and chemicals, software and recycling sectors. This expansion is excellent news for exhibitors and visitors alike.”
innovation at itmA
Innovation is a major theme at the show as exhibitors are making a beeline to showcase their creative best. The ITma 2015 research & Innovation Pavilion will provide research and higher education institutes with a platform to promote collaboration among companies, research centres and universities, highlight education and training opportunities, and showcase the latest projects. eligible candidates can apply for the CemaTeX research and Innovation Grant. The ITma Sustainable Innovation award will award those who have made outstanding contributions to the industry.
World textile summit
This is a one-day event featuring textile business leaders from companies such as Nike, adidas and everest, as well as a sector expert from global consultancy major mcKinsey & Company. Presentations by the speakers will pave the way for interactive discussions on the future of the textile industry.
textile colourant and chemical Leaders Forum
Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forum will be held on 14 November 2015, and follows the ITma objective to discuss the relevance of dyestuffs and colourants in the industry. The 18th edition of the event, ITma 2019 will be held in barcelona, Spain from 20 - 26 June 2019, at the Fira de barcelona exhibition centre. ❑
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ITMA 2015
Sustainability to be the highlight of ITMA 2015 CEMATEX, the owner of ITMA, is anticipating a huge turnout and new innovations at ITMA 2015, in addition to special focus on sustainable textiles. CEMATEX president Charles Beauduin speaks to Africa & Middle East Textiles ahead of the show How is the response to ITMA this year? The response from the industry has been very positive; based on the number of exhibitors and exhibition size, the upcoming exhibition will be bigger than its 2011 showcase. More than 95 per cent of the exhibition space had been booked when space application closed in July last year. Due to overwhelming response, an 11th hall was added to accommodate the strong demand. Currently, we have more than 1,500 exhibitors from around 40 countries. They will be showcasing their latest innovations over 200,000 sqm of the Fiera Milano Rho fairgrounds. We have also been approached by many industry leaders to organise or co-locate knowledge-sharing and networking activities. These include the World Textile Summit (13 November), Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forum (14 November), Digital Textile Conference (15 November) and Nonwovens Forum (16 November). EURATEX will be holding its congress alongside ITMA. In addition, we have also secured support from some 150 industry associations, many of which will be organising visiting delegations to ITMA. Industry associations such the United States Fashion Industry Association and the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) are organising events for the benefit of their members and ITMA visitors. Hence, the industry can expect a vibrant marketplace at ITMA 2015. The floor space was sold out rather early on can you tell us about the different kinds of exhibitors we can see this year and what to expect from the show? As the world’s most established integrated textile and garment manufacturing exhibition, the exhibitors at ITMA will showcase technologies, products and services that encompass the entire production chain. There is emphasis on traditional sectors, such as spinning, weaving and finishing. Visitors can also look forward to sourcing the latest digital printing solutions at the expanded and dedicated printing chapter, as well as a wide array of fibre and yarn. More importantly, at ITMA 2015, we can expect to see more exhibitors showcasing eco-friendly technologies and focusing on responsible sourcing as the industry collectively pushes towards sustainable solutions. Many of the leading manufacturers, especially those from CEMATEX countries, are launching new or enhanced products.
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Charles Beauduin, president of CEMATEX
How do you view Africa as a major apparel and textile exporter? Africa is increasingly being seen as the next textile manufacturing and exporting hub as labour and other costs of doing business in Asia rise. Africa is also a youthful continent with a median age of around 19 years, offering a huge trainable labour pool. As a predominantly agricultural continent with large areas of land suitable for cotton plantations and cattle farming, the potential for Africa to develop downstream textile and apparel products from cotton and leather is very high. The African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) has had a considerable impact on subSaharan Africa’s clothing industry and is a key part of the reason that textile plants have popped up across the region. The pull factor is stronger in countries with better political stability, such as Ethiopia. Investments have been flowing into the country from India, Turkey, China, Bangladesh and South Korea. It is also where global retailer H&M began production in 2013. What do you think are the main problems in the African textile industry? Political instability, corruption and security issues in some of the countries have adversely affected the investment climate. While the cost of doing business is still very low in Africa, productivity – in terms of both manual labour and machinery – remains low. Another challenge is transport logistics. While
Africa is geographically closer to Europe than China or India, many African countries lack the transport infrastructure to serve the industry’s needs. In addition, can you share some insights on the Middle East textile production market? Among the countries with traditionally strong textile sectors such as Egypt, Iran, Israel, Jordan and Syria, Iran remains one of the few bright spots for textile manufacturing in the Middle East. With economic sanctions to be lifted against Iran in the near future, Iranian companies will have the added option of investing in non-Asian manufacturing technologies. Coupled with their large and youthful labour pool, a government committed to stimulate textile industry exports, and the availability of local raw materials needed in the production of textiles and handmade carpets, textile production in Iran looks set to grow. The UAE, while not traditionally a major textile producer, may see growth in its textile printing sector. Growth is likely to be driven by digital printing technologies, which are more labour efficient as compared to traditional screen printing. This is particularly strategic for the UAE where labour costs are higher than many of its neighbours and other traditional production hubs. Unfortunately, the continued political turmoil in Egypt and the recent ban on imported cotton for an indefinite period does not bode well for the Egyptian textile production market. The ongoing
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ITMA 2015 Syrian civil war has devastated their textile industry, with factories significantly reducing or even stopping production, and sanctions limiting their accessibility to key markets. This year, what trends can we witness in terms of textile dominance and why? Sustainability will be a key concern of the textile and garment making industry. Hence, ecoconscious textiles will be one of the key trends. Today’s consumer is connected and increasingly concerned about our impact on the environment. As such, there is a need for fashion brands and their suppliers to adhere to environmental, sustainable and socially acceptable levels of conduct through the entire supply chain, from raw materials to the finished product. Smart textiles and wearable technology is another growing trend. Moving beyond just performance enhancing textiles, the smart textiles of the future integrate fashion and technology in an invisible way. Experts predict that future wearables could track and record health and fitness statistics, clean themselves of stains and odours when exposed to sunlight, and even capture haptic feedback to control smart devices. Riding on these global trends, ITMA 2015 will feature innovative solutions for the manufacture of technical textiles and advanced nonwovens. There will also be a greater focus on sustainable printing technologies and raw materials, sustainability standards & certification and technologies for responsible manufacturing. What kind of machinery can visitors expect to see at ITMA? ITMA 2015 will showcase cutting-edge and sustainable manufacturing technologies. Being a once-in-four-years event, many of our exhibitors use ITMA as a launch-pad for their latest machinery. Hence, visitors can look forward to exploring the newest solutions that will help increase their competitive edge. As a one-stop sourcing platform, visitors can also expect to source machinery that caters to the entire value chain, from spinning to winding, weaving to knitting, dyeing, printing and finishing to logistics, and more. Many of the exhibitors will be displaying machinery with green features, as well as eco-friendly processes and products. More importantly, visitors will be able to see live demonstration of machinery. Can you tell us something about the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award 2015? CEMATEX launched the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award as part of its ongoing efforts to encourage and recognise outstanding industry members and postgraduate students for their contributions to the sustainable development of the global textile and garment industry. The Award categories are Industry Excellence Award, Research & Innovation Excellence Award. The panel of judges for the Industry Excellence Award category include me, along with Prof.
Conventional dyeing produces large amounts of waste water. (Photo: Rehan Qureshi/Shutterstock)
Dominique C. Adolphe, president of AUTEX and vice-president of the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing; Josué Christiano Gomes Da Silva, president of the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF); John Mowbray, founder of MCL Global; and Serge Piolat, president of the European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX). The panel of judges for the Research & Innovation Excellence Award are Dr. Jeroen Vits, secretary general of Belgian Textile Machinery Association (SYMATEX); Prof. Vladan Koncar, head of research ENSAIT and director of GEMTEX Laboratory (GEMTEX & ENSAIT); Prof. Thomas Gries, director of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University; Dr. Takeshi Kikutani, professor for the department of organic and polymeric materials at the Graduate School of Science and Engineering of Tokyo Institute of Technology; and Prof. Behnam Pourdeyhimi, director of the Nonwovens Institute (NCSU). The winners will be unveiled at the ITMA 2015 gala dinner. Why do you want to emphasise on innovation in textiles? ITMA has been a trendsetting showcase of exciting innovations since 1951. Innovation helps ensure the industry’s sustainability and competitiveness. In today’s marketplace, competing based on price alone is not enough. Consumers demand for more; they want things faster, multi-functional and transparency in the production chain. The drive towards sustainability in the entire textile and garment value chain is increasingly integrated with enlightened business practices, and innovative technology holds the key to environmental sustainability. ITMA 2015 in particular will focus on innovations that help ensure a sustainable manufacturing value
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chain, hence the theme ‘Master the Art of Sustainable Innovation’. Initiatives such as the launch of the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award and rebranding of the Research & Education Pavilion to Research and Innovation Pavilion. The Speaker’s Platform at the pavilion will feature many presentations on the theme of sustainable innovation. How can you mitigate the problem of pollution caused by textile machinery? Technological innovations can go a long way in mitigating the main environmental issues faced by the textile and garment industry, particularly in the dyeing and finishing sectors. For example, in conventional textile dyeing, a huge amount of water is needed to process a kilogram of fabric. This means huge amounts of waste water that has to be disposed of is produced. New waterless dyeing technology uses recycled CO2 gas instead of water to permeate textiles with dyes, significantly reducing the amount of waste water produced and that could potentially save huge amounts of both water and energy. While waterless dyeing is ideal, until widespread adoption becomes a reality, machinery with water – and energy-saving features are also instrumental in reducing the amount of waste water produced and emissions of pollutants resulting from energy use. Some examples include dyeing machines with adjustable liquor levels based on the type and quantity of textiles used, and those that recirculate water used in one process for another. In addition to machinery with eco-friendly features, advanced dyestuffs with new formulations requiring less water and even dyes based on biosynthetics derived from agricultural waste products such as almond shells and rosemary leaves can also help reduce the environmental impact of the industry. ❑
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APPAREL Africa and the Middle East
Counterfeit products are openly sold in flea markets the world over. (Photo: David Shankbone/Wikimedia Commons)
Tackling the counterfeiting menace in the textiles industry As counterfeiting becomes more complicated and technologically advanced, companies are coming up with innovative ways to tackle the problem that is more than just a commercial issue. Niki Tait brings us the latest developments from the anti-counterfeit world.
C
OUNTERFEITING IS AN international threat, posing a significant challenge to many industries. Commercial loss is not the only repercussion of counterfeit products. Brand owners also face diminished integrity of their brand, an integrity that they have worked hard to build. Counterfeiting can leave a company open to loss of sales, product liability issues and destruction of brand confidence due to inferior imitations. Counterfeiting continues to present global brand leaders with huge challenges. There is no single solution; different industries with different types of products need different solutions and there are products in the market which can help fight this threat. Tailorlux GmbH from Germany develops and produces inorganic phosphors, also known as
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luminescent pigments that can shift, focus, absorb or scatter the spectrum of light. Their product protection and anti-counterfeiting system, TailorSafe, offers a legally valid authentication of a product marker and thus of the authenticity of a product, comparable to a fingerprint or DNA analysis, guaranteeing that users can defend their patent, brand, usage or design rights in court. A tiny amount of inorganic and safe luminescent pigments, invisible to the naked eye, are integrated into the body or on the surface of the product to be protected. The pigments are based on a special selection of rare earth elements which are chemically inert, acid-proof and heat-resistant up to temperatures of 1,700°C. Invisible to the naked eye, the tamperproof markers produce a pattern of light that is as
unique as a fingerprint and can be authenticated reliably even after fire damage, wear and tear or apparent destruction of the product. Properties of the integrated pigments are digitised, encoded and stored as a data file. The marker stores no data and is safe from all external electronic interference. Combining different pigments allows Tailor-Safe to apply over 300bn unique security pigments. A handheld spectrometer, the size of a common mobile phone, can easily authenticate a security pigment. Simple in-line sensors integrated in industrial processes allow up to 10,000 individual measurements to be taken in seconds. The minute concentration of pigments in the finished product means that the marker has no effect on the material properties of the product. Producers of high-tech fabrics that are used in products like pipelines, rotor blades or machine parts can protect their products with Tailor-Safe while premium branded clothing can integrate the security pigments in the logo stitching. DNA Technologies from Canada constructs unique, synthetic DNA sequences that can encode company and product-specific information into inks, dyes and resins to produce the security marker DNA Matrix. It enables products to be individually coded and tracked globally, at all times from manufacturing to retail. The company’s SmartDye derives from research by PhotoSecure, a brand protection company at Boston University’s Photonics Centre. PhotoSecure’s research into photoluminescence allows each ink batch to be customised with unique fluorescing traits which include the frequency of light needed to activate them, the manner in which their fluorescence fades when that stimulus is removed, the exact colour of the fluorescence and other properties which can be detected and measured by scanners. These variables produce a machine-readable signature that distinguishes between genuine and counterfeit items. SmartDye-based marking materials are available as dyes, inks and thin films. Encoded data, like UPC or 2D barcodes, can be part of the mark’s physical configuration, allowing for tracking information to be put on the product secretly, to be read only by a properly configured scanner. The addition of covert security features to overt security measures of a hologram or hot stamp foil adds a layer of undetectable security that is extremely difficult to identify or replicate. DNA Technologies has developed the DNA Multimatrix Hologram that incorporates DNA taggants into holographic images. These new holographic security features combine
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COUNTERING COUNTERFEITS benefits of immediate visual recognition, known and appreciated by the end user/consumer, while the holographic image prevents counterfeiting of articles by any digital or traditional printing equipment. Detection of the covert security feature is enabled by a simple reader that relies on spectrum analysis of the specially designed holographic feature. Scanners are small portable devices, for recording both the response profile of each authentic secure mark and any encoded data the mark may contain. Lightweight and compact, handheld scanners can be carried unobtrusively into a retail location and used to check items on the shelves for DNA Matrix marks. Final confirmation of the DNA Matrix is performed in an authorised laboratory, to match the specific DNA sequence. The DNA Matrix has recently been incorporated into synthetic fibres to further enhance protection against counterfeiting, by blending with the raw material used to create sewing threads. The threads are designed for use in the manufacture of apparel and footwear to help determine their authenticity. Coats recently joined forces with VTT Holdings, a specialist in high-level security technology for textiles, garments, bags and footwear, to develop a pioneering brand protection solution to fight counterfeiting and protect value. The solution is Coats Verifi, a technology that allows spot validation by allocating branded products a unique code which is incorporated into the sewing thread used in the production process. Invisible to the naked eye, each code can only be detected using a special hand-held reading device. The technology is flexible and can be seamlessly incorporated into the thread without compromising its technical specifications, colour or performance. The Coats Verifi logistics team integrates the technology into the supply of sewing thread to manufacturers, and monitors and tracks goods as they move through the supply chain. It is a solution that can prevent tampered orders, provide security at Customs clearance and validate the authenticity of brands within supply warehouses. It also offers verification at points of sale, so can be used to establish the origin of retail merchandise and returned goods.
AD INDEX Dilo Machines GmbH ..................................11 Erhardt + Leimer GmbH ................................5 Italian Trade Commission ..............................2 Loepfe Brothers Ltd. ....................................24 MP International Pte. Ltd. (ITMA 2015)......17 Oerlikon Textiile GmbH & Co KG ................7 Rieter Machine Works Ltd..............................9 Saurer Management AG................................21 Staubli International AG ..............................23
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Italian Manifattura Italiana Cucirini SpA is also understood to be developing an anti-counterfeit thread, while American A&E is developing a special thread for sewing the binding on passports to help prevent counterfeiting. This is a polyester thread with a special built-in dye which is difficult to apply and thus difficult to duplicate. It contains a florescent yellow which only shows up under a particular ultra violet light. GSI offers two anti-counterfeit measures. For its flexo and screen printed label products, it can apply a security thread as narrow as .0625 inches, permanently micro-etched with a company’s name or coded information in fonts as small as .01325 inches. According to the company, this thread is used in government currencies around the world. Along with this overt preventive measure, GSI also offers a covert measure, utilising an organic phosphor mixed with its inks or varnishes and printed on a label. This mark, or legend, is invisible to the naked eye, but when exposed to a reader, it will light up and/or cause the reader to emit an audible tone. These two technologies can also be combined to provide a multi-level solution. Toppan’s anti-counterfeit solutions are developed around four main principles. Being high security, they must be as difficult as possible to forge or simulate. For easy visual judgement, one should be able to verify the document without the need for special equipment in most cases. A covert element should be included, to be verified with a simple tool. Lastly, it should be possible to detect when an anti-counterfeit solution has been tampered with, through prevention of re-labelling or repacking. The company’s solutions tend to be customised to suit the needs of the customer and the item onto which they are to be applied. For example, Toppan can utilise holographic technology used for banknotes and passports in order to offer customers a holographic label with superior quality in terms of both appearance and security. Covert elements can be added to these labels, such as latent images which are only visible with a special detector. Labels can be made to adhere to a huge range of substrates and can be made tamper evident in order to prevent reuse. Toppan also claims to have developed the world’s first combined hologram and RFID tag, the RFID Crystagram, using the metal area of the hologram as an antenna for the tag. This product was initially developed using a Hitachi Mu-chip but is now offered in a UHF version. The Crystagram can be used to check authenticity while the RFID can be used for track and trace. There is some flexibility in design, meaning that the label can enhance the brand image, not detract from it like a traditional RFID tag. If someone tries to remove the label, the Crystagram will break up, disabling the RFID tag. Because some items don’t have a flat surface or don’t have enough area on which to attach a label, security ink can be a good solution. Toppan’s security inks all contain covert security elements which require some sort of basic tool for authentication. The inks, available for a wide range of substrates and operating conditions, could be used to print a serial or model number.
AlpVision concentrates on invisible digital technologies for product authentication and counterfeit protection. Its digital solutions are applicable to a wide variety of items, including packaging and labelling, moulded products and highvalue documents. The company has started the first pilot projects of its Fingerprint technology in the footwear sector to authenticate moulded products, a technology which may have implications throughout other industries that use technical textiles. The Fingerprint system relies on scanning a specific area of a product and comparing the digital image produced with images of the original product taken at the time of manufacture. Importantly, it does not require the addition of any marker or taggant. A regular smartphone equipped with AlpVision’s product authentication app can be used to verify products. Norwegian security label specialist Thinfilm Electronics specialises in printed electronics and claims to be the first company to commercialise printed rewritable memory technology. The company's first commercial application for the technology will be brand protection. Thinfilm CEO Davor Sutija estimates that the global market for anticounterfeiting, brand protection and security packaging technologies reached US$79bn in 2014, up from US$52bn in 2009, as industries tried to stem loss of revenues to counterfeiting, which are estimated at US$600bn a year. Thinfilm sees the greatest opportunity for its security labels in the clothing, electrical devices and consumer goods categories. With a price of about US$0.02 per unit, these labels are similarly priced as but have better security features than holograms which represent a US$5bn global market. The company's labels require the use of a simple, dedicated device which can read and write to the memory in the printed electronic component. The unique signature is created by both digital and analogue elements, such as variations in the thickness of the polymer used in the label, making replication difficult. Thinfilm estimates that the reader for its labels could be made for as little as about US$2. Scientists from the National Physical Laboratory (NPL) in the UK are developing a technique called terahertz time-domain spectroscopy to fight textile counterfeiting. The approach uses a beam of terahertz radiation, a band of electromagnetic radiation that falls between microwaves and infrared light, to record a distinctive spectral pattern for fabric items. The pattern of beam scattering and absorption generated by the textile under test provides a unique signature which could be used to indicate whether or not the item is genuine or counterfeit, say the scientists. Research examined fabrics made from wool, cotton, linen, silk and mixed fibres, all of which demonstrated distinct terahertz transmission properties. The technique could clearly distinguish between fabrics that looked and felt similar but had different compositions, according to NPL researchers. For example, the technique could tell the difference between plain wool and the more expensive merino wool, as well as between natural and synthetic silk. ❑
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