HORSE KEEPING

IS MY HORSE COLD?

Shelter, blanketing and other common concerns of the season. Here are some suggestions for keeping your horses comfortable in winter.

BY JENN WEBSTER

Given the opportunity to adjust to changes in climate gradually, horses can usually adapt to winter conditions fairly well. That being said, the circumstances of every horse owner vary and every horse is different when it comes to how well they can endure the winter months. For instance, some breeds are hardier and do well outside year-round, while others have thinner skin and require stabling in colder weather. What makes winter difficult for everyone is when conditions change drastically and severe weather occurs, or extreme temperature changes happen overnight. In Alberta, these fluctuations are commonplace.

As migrating south isn’t an option for many horse owners this year, it might be prudent to evaluate your winter plan for horse care. Winter in Canada presents challenges we don’t experience at any other time of year. Keeping water sources from freezing up or preventing deep, crusty snow from scraping our horse’s legs might become part of the daily, seasonal routine. Maintenance of body temperature is critical to a horse’s well-being, leading many owners to worry whether their equines are comfortable and healthy.

While it is true that horses can become cold in the winter, there are many ways to keep them happy and in good physical shape during the most challenging season of the year. With proper shelter, nutrition and care, your horse will be able to handle dramatic drops in the mercury. Here are a few pieces of advice for best practices against Old Man Winter – and for keeping your worries at bay.

THE BASICS

If you’ve ever walked out to your horse in cold weather and found it shivering, it can be worrisome. But, if the horse is in good health, it’s not usually a cause for concern. Shivering is a natural response to cold. The horse is warming itself and trying to get some heat going in its body.

If the horse has a body condition score of at least five or six (moderately fleshy) going into the winter, then it should have a decent layer of fat to protect against the elements. Obese horses are not the goal, but a nice layer of fat over the ribs works as insulation against the cold. A good diet throughout the winter is essential to provide energy for the animal’s body systems to work in the winter. Some horses may require more hay, or even unlimited access to roughage during this time. Horses need at least one per cent of their body weight per day in roughage to maintain a healthy digestive system and this need might increase during colder temperatures.

Of course, free-choice water should always be available – snow is not a sufficient source to meet the animal’s needs in winter. It is also advised to keep an eye on how much water the horse is consuming. When the weather turns cold, sometimes horses may drink less because they don’t like the water temperature, or the automatic waterer is frozen over, or they are reluctant to move around very much. Either way, decreased water intake increases a horse’s chances of impaction colic. Therefore, it’s always good to monitor the water source and have an idea of how much the horse is consuming.

GIMME SHELTER

Adequate shelter is an absolute necessity for horses in the winter. Horses living outside during the winter need access to a place that shelters them from wind and moisture. If a horse has been

given the opportunity to grow a nice winter coat prior to cooler temperatures setting in, they can tolerate cold weather very well. However, a horse’s coat can only offer partial protection from the elements, which is why they need access to a windbreak shelter at the side and an overhead shelter from rain and snow. Groups of horses may also huddle together, to share body heat. Still, a proper shelter will pay dividends in terms of their health and comfort – and you will likely find them all grouped together inside the shelter on cold days.

If you have an older horse, a hard keeper, or your horse is clipped, you may find that blanketing is an advantage. Normal healthy horses grow longer, coarser hair in the winter, especially in areas under the jaw and lower legs. However, if your horse has an underlying health issue such as internal parasites or poor teeth, or he has been under excessive amounts of light, he might not be able to produce the desired winter coat he needs for the outdoors. Sometimes, a well-fitted blanket is a necessity.

Kathleen Iles owns and operates The Tack Collector in Calgary, AB. Since 2006, she has maintained an impressive inventory of second-hand equine tack and equipment available for sale in her storefront. The Tack Collector takes items in on consignment and offers the public an economical selection of name brand, gently-used tack. Over the years, she has learned a few things about the lifespan of equine blankets and best practices for rugging horses when the temperature dips below zero.

“Used blankets can still be so good for their next owner, when taken care of properly,” says Iles. The Tack Collector keeps several on-consignment blankets for every season in stock throughout the year, ranging in sizes, conditions, deniers and brands.

“Whether you’re purchasing a blanket from here, or simply trying to maintain the ones you have at home, we recommend that people get them washed and re-waterproofed every year. It’s easy to do and it helps maintain the integrity of the blanket. Plus, this helps your horse stay warmer in the long run.”

She suggests picking up a waterproof spray from a camping section/store, washing and repairing blankets as needed, and keeping them properly stored in a clean, dry space when not in use.

“Don’t store your blankets longterm on the fence, because the fading effects of the sun will devalue them a lot,” Iles advises.

“I wash my blankets every year, and get them re-waterproofed, as I don’t have time to worry about wet blankets,” she says.

In Iles’ personal opinion, winter blankets are also typically better than rain sheets for our early spring, late fall and winter because the denier is better.

“Especially for that wet, driving rain, winter blankets work better than rain sheets – hands down. I’ve had experience with several types of blankets with my horses and through the store over the years. The only thing about using the winter blankets is that you must also get them off when the weather changes so the horse doesn’t sweat or become overheated underneath. This helps keep your blankets cleaner on the inside and reduces the potential for developing hair and skin conditions from the combination of moisture, heat, lack of air and general horse dirt. Especially living in a place like Calgary, the weather can change very suddenly,” she states.

The Tack Collector carries a selection of hoods meant to compliment winter blankets, but second-hand hoods can be a little tricky.

“Hoods can be complicated in how they attach to a blanket,” says Iles. “Every manufacturer has a special way of doing things. We do get quite the variety of full hoods and necks in the store. My advice is to find one that actually overlaps around the neck as much as possible. Some may leave a gaping hole at the bottom of the neck – and that’s typically a place where many people clip their horses, so it also tends to be where the hair grows back the quickest.”

So, would Iles recommend layering, double-blanketing or using a Slinky underneath winter blankets? She says – yes and no.

“If a blanket doesn’t properly fit your horse and you need a slinky to stop the rubbing, you really need to reassess the blanket’s fit,” Iles says.

“We get a ton of blankets that have ripped chest and shoulder lining. You can tell the horse has been rubbing and a Slinky won’t make a difference – it’s just going to help the horse hurt a little less. You also need to know if a pinch point is occurring at the wither. I see a lot of blankets that are damaged here – so you have to wonder. I don’t think a Slinky can prevent that. Make sure all the blankets you put on your horse fit properly.” AB

NO REASON FOR ALARM

Horse urine can change colour after being voided due to the presence of plant metabolites (pyrocatechines) in the urine which turns a red or orange colour when mixed with oxygen. This can happen year-round, but it is especially noticeable in snow. Normal horse urine appears colourless, to yellow, to dark yellow when voided. If the urine appears red, brown, or orange as it is being voided, that can indicate a serious problem. Bottom line, if horse urine is an abnormal colour as it is being voided or you observe frequent urination or straining to urinate, call your veterinarian immediately. If your horse is passing normal coloured urine that turns red or orange in the snow, that is normal. - University of Minnesota Equine Extension Program