Formerly City Palate
The flavour of Edmonton’s food scene | July August 2010 | thetomato.ca
The salad U-pick etiquette A recipe for indulgence
k c a b k c Ki h a cool one! wit
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Contents editor Mary Bailey marybee@shaw.ca
publisher BGP Publishing
copy editor Amanda LeNeve
designer Bossanova Communications Inc.
contributing writers Peter Bailey Jan Hostyn Lorena D. Johnson Krysta Forrest Bryan Saunders Judy Schultz Brad Smoliak
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Features
6 10 12 16 20
The Salad The tossed salad is a thing of beauty | Mary Bailey
U-Pick Etiquette On your mark, get set, go! | Jan Hostyn
A Recipe for Indulgence Selections from the Slow Food extravaganza
Cookbook Feature 250 Home Preserving Favorites by Yvonne Tremblay
Brad on Barbecuing Three meats, three recipes | Brad Smoliak
Departments
5 8 18 22 23 24 26 30
Dish Gastronomic happenings around town
Beer Guy Don’t fear the fruit | Peter Bailey
Wine Maven Summer whites and a rosé for hot days and patio nights | Mary Bailey
Drinks Tequila 101 | Bryan Saunders
Eating for Two Finding your fitness/nutrition balance | Krysta Forrest
Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable
Feeding People So many mouths to feed | Lorena D. Johnson
According to Judy Flying high, with lamb | Judy Schultz
Cover: original illustration by Darcy Muenchrath, www.darcymuenchrath.com
KeepEdmontonOriginal.com Exercise your power as a consumer thoughtfully.
thetomato.ca The Tomato | July August 2010 3
Coming soon NOW BAKING FRESH BREAD DAILY! A Fresh-Baked Taste of Europe! The Italian Centre Shop now proudly offers our very own, fresh-baked European breads and rolls. Baked daily in our southside state-of-the-art bakery, and served from the deli counter at both locations, you can be assured of its freshness and authentic, old world European quality. Hot Dog Buns, White Bread, Hamburger Buns, Whole Wheat Sliced, Whole Wheat Buns, Medium Rye, Heavy Rye, Marble Swirl loaf, Pumpernickel loaf, Multigrain Sliced, French Bread, Pagnotta, Bavarian Rye, Crusty Buns - Regular, Crusty Buns - Baby, Bread Crumbs Regular, Bread Crumbs seasoned
Patty Nagy Memorial The Cougar Cafe Taming Sophia The Oil and Vinegar Primer
gastronomic happenings around town | Gusto Italiano
Love waffles?
Shane Chartrand, executive chef of L2 welcomed students Gaia Tigli and Luca Baldi from Tuscany (Arezzo and Siena) to his kitchen as part of a work experience set up by Vinod Varshney and team at NAIT. Along with cooking nightly in L2, the two were part of L2’s kitchen brigade at Indulgence, a Canadian epic of food and wine. They helped plate and checked out the other offerings for a one night regional experience of Canadian cooking.
Who says food and fashion don’t mix? It’s flirty, it’s fun, and it gets the cake to the plate with a minimum of muss and fuss. The High Heel Cake Server is just the thing for get-togethers where style is at least as important as function. Stainless steel by Solo Design, $16.49. Find it at Cally’s Teas, 8608 99 Street, 780-432-3294.
From left: Shane Chartrand, Lindsay Porter, Gaia Tigli, Noel Austin, Kim Rattai and Luca Baldi.
Stepping out for cake?
“You know there are people who haven’t been able to have a grilled cheese sandwich in ages, and now they can,” said Michael Kalmanovitch of Earth’s General Store. Lactose intolerant and vegan folks can enjoy Daiya cheese ($17/kg, sold pre-shredded in cheddar or mozzarella flavour) made in Vancouver from, of all things, tapioca. What it doesn’t have: soy, dairy, gluten, egg, wheat, barley, whey, or nuts. What is does have: a cheesey mouth feel (I mean that in the best possible way) and meltability. Find it at the Earth's General Store (9605-82 Avenue 780-439-8725). The Mill Creek Cafe (956282 Avenue 780-439-5535) will substitute Daiya upon request in all their cheese-based offerings such as sandwiches, omelettes, quesadilla, and even pizza.
Holy kiwi Batman!
How about a little noodle-kissing? Sui To, the man who made the green onion cake a taste of Edmonton, is back with a new restaurant called the Noodle Maker, (9653 102 Avenue, 780-428-0021). Expect Japanese ramen noodles, and Shanghai noodle dishes, soups and rice-based items. Long-time customer Alan Shepard says “the food is good, the flavours are robust, not laid back. Or, as Sui To says; “Dig in, sip up, slurp. Kiss the noodle, enjoy.” Open daily 11am–10pm.
Check out Eva Sweets, a van outside the Workers’ Compensation Building on 107 Street and 99th Avenue. They produce a truly Belgian waffle—the irons and the sugar are direct from Belgium as is the maker Bamir Basha (along with Canadian wife Patricia Foufas). Have by themselves in all their crunchy-on-the-outside, soft-in-themiddle goodness, or with toppings. Bamir and his waffle van are also at the Beverly Market on Tuesdays and the Alberta Avenue Market Thursdays.
Cheeez Pleez!
Beer + ice cream = yum Two of our favourite things, ice cream and beer, meet in the summer specialty beer Neopolitan Stout dreamed up by Sherbrooke and Alley Kat. Imagine a beer that tastes like strawberry chocolate and vanilla that you used to eat as a kid, all smooshed together. (Unless you were one of those kids who didn’t like the stripes touching. You may not like this beer then, too bad) $17.99/6 pack. Check out Sherbrooke’s other specialty beers such as the yummy Chocolate Cherry Ostiarius (Porter) and the Russion Imperial stout style called KGB made by Bruce Sample, 2009 Aurora Brewing Challenge champ. $6.99/650 ml bottle.
dish
New and tasty from Alley Kat Brewery.
Sacred Hill Hawkes Bay Cabernet Merlot—plummy fruity goodness.
New Zealand’s Sacred Hill winemaker Tony Bish was at lunch at Normand’s recently. Sacred Hill’s wines are from several vineyards in the Hawke’s Bay (including the Gimblett gravels, ideal for Bordeaux varietals) and Marlborough (Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc) regions. Good to know too, that the vineyards are accredited under the NZ Sustainable Vineyard Initiative. We especially like the 2008 Sacred Hill Basket Press Cabernet Merlot for it’s savoury, spicy and plummy fruit character and supple structure. Look for these good value wines at Bin 104 and other fine wine shops.
The Tomato | July August 2010 5
The Salad. a The tossed salad is a thing of beauty —refreshing, crunchy, wholesome—the dieter’s delight (never mind that a restaurant Caesar salad can have more calories than a steak sandwich). The variations on a theme can be endless and a way to get those several servings of veg we’re all supposed to eat. A wine pal mixes greens, chopped red onion, and goat cheese with sliced strawberries and candied pecans. Another friend makes a salad of grated carrot, beet, and celery arranged in colourful stripes on greens, so pretty and travels to potlucks so well. Midsummer, I’ll make a salad from nothing but one of Sparrow Organics’ lettuces dressed with salt, pepper and a bit of extra-virgin olive oil. The lettuce, shockingly fresh and earthy, needs nothing else. The best salads start with a great dressing, but it doesn’t have to be complicated or chock full of ingredients. What’s in the dressing needs to be of best quality though. Start with a good olive oil. Yup, the plus $20 kind; and think of it as a variation on the old cost-per-wearing theory. If you use two tablespoons of delicious fruity, spicy, extra-virgin olive oil on your salad to feed four people, you have spent approximately a dollar. Worth it, don’t you think? You can use grape seed oil, walnut or cold-pressed canola, but those have specific flavours that generally go best on certain salads. Extra-virgin olive oil is your go-to oil for your everyday summer salad. My method for basic vinaigrette: one part acid (lemon juice, wine vinegar) to three parts oil. Try making your dressing in the bowl first, rather than a jar or squeeze bottle. I start with a ½ lemon or lime squeezed into a mixing bowl. I add about a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. I whisk, and if the proportions are right, it will be thick and opaque. If not, I taste for more oil or more lemon. Then I season generously with sea salt and fresh cracked pepper. Hold back on the salt a bit if you are using a lot of cheese or other salty ingredients in the salad. But, if you are having plain greens the salt becomes the flavour counterpoint. It’s simple, easy, and you’ll never have half-full jars of leftover salad dressing in the fridge. Only one bowl gets dirty and you have to toss the salad anyway. You rarely overdo the dressing either, each leaf gets coated thoroughly and well. I also use regular metal kitchen tongs to toss. Go figure, works for me and there’s less flying lettuce. The salad composée (compound salad) is the company version of the tossed salad. It gives you a chance to showcase an ingredient—a round of goat cheese let’s say, or a grilled steak, or a few choice slices of dead-ripe heirloom tomato. It’s a handy serving style with large heavy ingredients which tend to sink to the bottom of a tossed salad. Or for things like beets, that bleed colour, or when you are mixing hot and cold (separate but together is the aim here). But mainly it looks pretty, which helps the salad be as much a feast for the eyes as the palate. Here’s hoping for plenty of salad days this summer—long and hot when all we really want is a refreshing glass of cool wine and a plate of salad, tossed or composed.
d
6 July August 2010 | The Tomato
hungarian cucumber salad There’s nothing better than cucumber on one of the few hot days we have every summer. I prefer to leave the skins on for colour and crunch, but peel if you like. 3
very fresh cucumbers sea or kosher salt
1
red onion, sliced thin
2T
white vinegar (yup, white vinegar)
2t
water (about) sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper paprika to taste (your choice— sweet, hot or smoked)
Slice cucumbers into very thin rounds. Sprinkle liberally with salt and let stand 15 minutes. Squeeze out liquid from the cucumbers. Toss onion with the cucumbers. Season to taste and add vinegar and water to just cover. Sprinkle paprika generously on top. Serves 4–6 as a side dish.
watermelon and black olive salad with fennel A recipe in Todd English’s first cookbook, Olives, was my introduction to the toothsome combo of black olive and watermelon. The key is to have everything about the same size; olives, watermelon cubes, chunks of feta as it looks pretty and gives to each mouthful the sweet/salty/sour hit of flavour that makes this salad quite irresistible. juice of half a lemon 1-3 T
extra virgin olive oil
1
fennel bulb, thinly sliced salt and pepper, to taste
12
(or so) pitted kalamata olives, chopped in half
½
red onion, thinly sliced
1
scallion, thinly sliced
1½-2 c feta cheese, crumbled 4c
cubed watermelon
Squeeze lemon into a large mixing bowl. Drizzle in extra virgin olive oil, whisk to emulsify (the mixture becomes thick and opaque). Test for balance and add either more oil or more lemon juice then season using less salt than usual as you will be adding salty ingredients. Place everything else but the watermelon cubes in the bowl. Toss until well mixed. Add watermelon and toss gently. Serves 4–6.
warm beef with cilantro dressing This Asian inspired beef salad makes a terrific take-to-work lunch as it’s good hot or cold. It’s a great way to use up leftover steak from a barbecue the night before.
cilantro dressing 1 lg bunch cilantro 2 cloves
garlic, crushed
1
long green chile, chopped fine, seeds removed
1t
fresh-squeezed lime juice
1t
rice wine
2T
canola oil
1T
sesame oil (optional)
1T
panko crumbs sea-salt and cracked black pepper
Process all ingredients in a food processor for 2−3 minutes or until smooth. Reserve or chill in the refrigerator if not using right away.
Brush the beef with the oil and sprinkle with the chili flakes, salt and pepper. Preheat grill (or preheat a pan over high heat). Add the beef and cook for 4−5 minutes each side, to medium rare (or as you like it). Let meat rest for about 5 minutes, then slice into thin strips. Place in a large bowl with the vegetables along with any accumulated juices and toss to combine. Divide the salad between four plates and drizzle with the cilantro dressing to serve. Serves 4.
strawberry and blueberry salad with parma ham An episode of Bitchin’ Kitchen inspired this salad. Nadia Giosia used pomegranate seeds and Mshalalé cheese, a salty stringy Middle Eastern cheese. We’ll use either feta cheese or silky Parma ham as the salty counterpoint to the fresh berries, so good in the summer. 4T
extra virgin olive oil
1
flank or sirloin steak, trimmed
1T
canola oil
¼t
chili flakes sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper
3
green onions, thinly sliced
1c
snow peas or fresh green beans, trimmed and blanched
1 bunch
fresh carrots, julienned
1 bunch
spinach leaves or Bibb type lettuce
Make this salad with the drippiest, ripest peaches you can find. Ditto the blackberries. 1t
honey juice ½ small lime or lemon
1 sml bunch mint chopped fine 1 sprig
thyme, leaves only chopped fine
2 leaves
rosemary, chopped fine
1 pkg
fresh ricotta (wetter preferred over dry)
2-3
BC peaches, sliced
1c
blackberries
Mix the honey, citrus juice and herbs with the ricotta. The idea is to have pieces of ricotta, rather than a smooth spread. Place in a bowl with the fruit. Toss gently so the ricotta stays fairly chunky. Garnish with more fresh mint leaves.
juice of ½ lemon (approx 2T) fresh-cracked black pepper pinch
brown sugar
handful fresh mint, chopped 1c
fresh blueberries
1c
ripe strawberries (small whole berries work best) or ½ cup feta cheese, crumbled or manourie (a soft slightly sweet less salty Greek cheese) if using the Parma ham.
4-6 slices Parma ham (or Serrano) sliced (optional)
salad
peach and blackberry salad with herbs and ricotta
Place oil and lemon juice with the pepper and sugar in the bottom of a big bowl and whisk to emulsify. Put in mint, berries and cheese. Toss gently. Place the fruit salad in a large bowl or arrange on 4-6 plates. Place Parma ham attractively on top. Variation: use balsamic vinegar in place of the lemon juice.
vietnamese spot prawn salad Mid-summer is BC spot prawn season. Medium sized and slightly sweet, these as-local-as-we’re-going-to-get shrimp are complemented by the sweet/hot flavours of the dressing. Steam or grill the shrimp, either way they will be delicious.
vietnamese dressing 2 cloves garlic, minced 2
fresh long red chiles, seeded and finely diced or julienned
2T
finely minced fresh ginger
4T
fish sauce (nam pla)* juice of one lime, plus more for drizzling if desired.
2T
water
1T
sugar
2t
peanut or canola oil
Mix all ingredients together and reserve. Will keep one week in the refrigerator Please see Salad on page 11
The Tomato | July August 2010 7
beer guy
| peter bailey
Don’t fear the fruit For a guy, especially a beer guy, drinking a fruit beer is like riding a Vespa—sure it’s fun, but don’t let your friends catch you doing it. Even veteran beer geeks glance over their shoulder before ordering fruit beer in public, and if called on it, will claim they ordered it for their female companion. The culture of beer drinking has changed over the years, yet beer’s image remains resolutely masculine. Beer is a man’s drink, and don’t be trying to change it by putting fruit in it! Miller Lite ads detailing the unspoken rules of male behaviour had “Don’t Fruit the Beer” as Manlaw #10. For many years I too considered fruit beer an abomination. In the 1980s, I was drinking the beer of craft brewers like Toronto’s Upper Canada Brewing. They differentiated themselves from big brewers by following the Reinheitsgebot, or German Beer Purity Law of 1516, which only allows the use of water, barley, hops, and yeast. Anything else—corn, rice, or corn syrup, but also fruit or spices—is an adjunct, and against the law!
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8 July August 2010 | The Tomato
Trust the Belgians to brew entirely differently. No purity law for Belgium, where adding fruit to beer has a long tradition. More radically, Belgian lambic beer uses natural, wild yeasts, floating in through the brewery’s windows, to work the magic of fermentation. A dry, sour beer, lambic is blended with fruit to make complex fruit beer. Cherries make a kriek, raspberries a framboise. Edmonton
beer drinkers can try a lambic classic at Sherbrooke Liquor Store which has imported a stock of Belgian lambic Cantillon beers, including what Stephen Beaumont calls “the finest lambic and one of the greatest beers I have ever tasted”—Cantillon St. Lamvinus. I saw the light with fruit beer in Edmonton when I tried Alley Kat’s apricot beer, Aprikat, one sunny summer day. I’m not a big fruit fan and who the hell eats apricots anyway? But I was quickly converted, quietly joining the secret fraternity of male fruit beer drinkers. Now I know that fruit beer can be an absolute delight, an amiable, easydrinking companion on a hot summer patio or back deck. Craft brewers are making some delectable brews with fruit, and summer is the perfect time to try a few. These aren’t sugary alco-pops but beers finely balanced between the taste of the fruit and the beer. To paraphrase Alberta musician Corb Lund when he sings, “Never judge a man by his clothes”— never judge a man by his beer (except maybe if he’s drinking Bud Light Lime). Take heart, fruit beer drinkers. There are more and more of us out there. Hold your head high and ask your bartender, in a firm, unwavering voice, “I’ll have a pint of fruit beer, thank you. Yes, it’s for me.” But get him to serve it in a dirty glass. Peter Bailey is a librarian in the Edmonton area. He blogs at petepicks.blogspot.com.
Fruity six pack Many fruit beers are based on wheat beers, the soft taste pairing well with the sweet fruit. Most of the beers below are widely distributed; all can be found at better beer stores in Edmonton.
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If the excellent Montreal brewer is making a fruit beer, you can trust it will be good—and it is. Perfect for Montreal’s sun-dappled terraces, it also goes well on Albertan decks. Very nicely balanced between apricot essence and the wheat of the beer.
Matahari
Wild Rose – Wraspberry Raspberry Ale Calgary’s Wild Rose uses real raspberries in this delicious, fruity beer. The raspberries are muted, not overbearing, making one pint quickly lead to another. Usually on tap at the Glenora Original Joe’s. Enjoy it outside on their sunny patio.
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Dining, Takeout, Catering & Special Events
Alley Kat – Brewberry Blueberry Ale
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Edmonton’s Alley Kat knows exactly what to do with fruit. Their Aprikat was Alberta’s first fruit beer, Razzykat a seasonal standout, and their new Raspberry Mead a unique innovation. Brewberry Blueberry is a very friendly beer, soft on the tongue and modestly blueberryish.
Ample free parking at rear with rear entrance available. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, hours vary.
Unibroue – Éphémère Apple Beer Brewing from the Belgian tradition, fruit beer comes naturally to Quebec’s Unibroue. Éphémère Apple is a white beer blended with apple must. A strong bouquet of Granny Smith apple is followed by a sweet and tart taste, quite reminiscent of a semi-dry cider. A distinct brew.
Fruli – Strawberry Beer A fun beer from Belgium, a blend of wheat beer and pure strawberry juice. A bit of a cult beer, as people around the world have strong opinions on both sides. Fruli is all about the strawberries—pouring red-pink into the glass, tasting strongly of strawberry with just a hint of beer.
• Extensive malt whisky selection • By-the-glass wine, champagne & sparkling • Cheese, paté, charcuterie & gourmet haggis • Available for private functions
Tin Whistle – Peach Cream Ale Pentiction’s Tin Whistle Brewing didn’t have to look far, in the Okanagan with peach orchards abounding, for inspiration for their peach beer. A pleasant peachy aroma leads to a soft peach-apricot, not-too-sweet taste, balanced with a golden ale.
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The Tomato | July August 2010 9 Bothy_8H.indd 1
10/19/09 9:43:47 AM
U-pick
Etiquette On your mark, get set…go! Jan Hostyn
Grab some buckets, lace up your shoes, and hop in the car—it’s u-pick time. Pack up your penchant for adventure, invest a few hours of your time, and reap the rewards: juicy berries, sweet peas, tender corn, young potatoes…the bounty is endless.
But don’t forget to lug along your manners or your adventure might prove to be a little too, well, adventurous. “We almost had a fistfight once,” laments Tam Andersen, owner of Prairie Gardens. “Someone started picking strawberries in someone else’s row. Voices were raised, pails were dropped and we had to intervene pretty quickly. People take their berries very seriously, you know.” So, before heading out, keep in mind there are definite dos and don’ts when it comes time to pick. And, yes, fistfights fall under the “don’t” heading.
10 July August 2010 | The Tomato
“Sandals are never a good idea,” cautions Carol Jones of Grove Berry Farms. “Put them up against prickly weeds and they’ll lose every time.” A long-sleeved shirt and a pair of gloves might also come in handy, especially if you’re planning on tackling a notoriously thorny raspberry patch.
So you’ve made it to the farm, excited and raring to go. Pile out of the car, but before flocking to the field, check in with the grower first. They’ll tell you where (and how) to pick. “I know where the best spots are. Every morning I wander out and check on the readiness of the fruit,” says Jones. Saskatoons are a bit different; there are so many rows, you can usually pick wherever you want. You might want to heed the grower’s advice, though. “We have this one tree, just as you go out the gate and into the orchard, where everyone stops and picks,” Karen Poirier of Saskatoon Valley Orchards laughs.
First, the dos. Before you go anywhere, phone. Get the “crop report,” as Anderson calls it. “Nature doesn’t always work around your schedule. If we’ve been picked out the day before, we can’t make the strawberries ripen. They have to do that all by themselves.”
Now pick, and please, do your best to pick the plant clean. “Once a strawberry is ripe, it’s ready. It doesn’t get any bigger. If you leave it, it starts to rot and takes out all the other berries around it,” explains Andersen. If you must have big strawberries, head out early in the season. The first berries—or the king berries, as they’re known—are always the biggest.
Once you’ve determined there are actual berries (or peas, or whatever happens to be destined for your bucket that day), prepare yourself. Remember, you’re heading out to a farm, in the country, with dirt and trees and weeds and animals and bugs. You’ll want to bring your pails, of course, but bug spray, sunscreen, hats, and comfortable outdoor clothing are also musts.
Okay, now for the don’ts. Don’t bring your dogs. Yes, it’s a farm and, yes, with all that room to run, it’s a dog’s paradise. But most farms already have animals, including dogs. And dogs tend to be territorial and protective. “We actually had one couple ask us to pen up our dogs so they could let their dogs run free,” laughs Poirier.
salads, from page 7 Poirier, like most growers, welcomes kids. “Kids have a ball out here, and it’s a great learning experience. The parents have to supervise them, though. If they’re running through the saskatoon trees and breaking the branches…” Vi Bretin of Bio-Way Gardens agrees. “We love having families come out to pick strawberries, but if they hop around the bushes, they end up squishing the berries and damaging the plants.” So educate and watch your kids. You’re surrounded by temptation and having an overwhelming urge to pop a berry in your mouth. Should you? “You have to taste the berries,” Bretin says. “You need to know what you’re getting.” Sample, though, don’t feast. Remember, this is how growers make a living. And please, please, please respect the grower’s property. “We’ve had people break branches of the saskatoon bushes to mark the spot where they want to start picking the next day,” Poirier reveals. Jones has witnessed a few other questionable habits, too. “We have an outhouse and appreciate it when people use it.” So don’t use the field as your own personal bathroom. But that’s not what bothers Jones the most. “It really gets on my nerves when people leave their litter lying around. I don’t go to their house and leave a bunch of garbage.” Oh, and bargaining is not encouraged. “People need to understand how finicky strawberries are to grow, and how labour-intensive they are,” Jones explains. “Picking the berries is just one small piece of the work. Please don’t come out expecting a deal.” Just remember: you’re a guest, so behave like one. Okay, you’re all set—now go pick. A lot. The growers love having you, even if they do have to break up the occasional fistfight or two. Writer Jan Hostyn likes to pick the smallest, greenest strawberries she can find—in the rain, wearing sandals.
EDMONTON & AREA U-PICKS Call for directions and picking schedule or request a guide from Alberta Farm Fresh: albertafarmfresh.com/guide. htm or call 1-800-661-2642 Coronado saskatoon farm Saskatoons, black currants. Gibbons, 780-942-4146 Bio-Way Gardens Raspberries, gooseberries, red currants, rhubarb, vegetables, herbs. Leduc, 780-986-1067 ensanté Winery Saskatoons, wild black cherries, raspberries, sea buckthorn, apples. Brosseau, 780-657-2275 Open summer months by appointment. Prairie Gardens and Greenhouses Peas, pumpkins, strawberries, pumpkin patch. Bon Accord, 780-921-2272 Strawberry picking days are Wednesday and Saturday, weather permitting. roy's raspberries Also pre-picked produce Acheson, 780-962-3959 Pipestone Berry farm Raspberries, rhubarb, saskatoons, tomatoes, pre-picked produce. Millet, 780-387-5466
salad ½c
Vietnamese dressing (recipe above)
24
spot prawns, cooked
1t
sesame oil
1 sml pkg glass noodles
Place the tray in the center of the oven and bake until bacon is dark golden brown and fairly crispy, about 20 minutes. The bacon will crisp more after you take it out of the oven. Leave in strips to top salads or crumble to toss with.
1c
sugar snap peas or snow peas
½c
bean sprouts
3
scallions
½c
finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
½c
chopped peanuts (optional)
2T
butter
boiling water
½c
pecan halves
2T
packed light brown sugar
Marinate the shrimp in the dressing. Meanwhile, soak the noodles in boiling water according to packet instructions. Once re-hydrated, refresh the noodles in cold water, then drain and cover. Put the sugar snaps and bean sprouts into a colander and cover with boiling water. Rinse with cold water to refresh. Drain well. Fold marinated shrimp in with the drained noodles, scallions, peas and bean sprouts. Dress to taste. Sprinkle chopped cilantro and toss well before placing on a large plate or on four smaller plates. Sprinkle with peanuts if desired, and drizzle with more lime juice. Serves 4–6. * Fish sauce, called nam pla, nuoc nam, or patis, can be found in any Chinatown (97 street) grocery store or at T&T supermarkets.
GO WITHS A handful of candied bacon or nuts or large crunchy/soft rustic croutons are delightful additions to a salad.
candied pecans
Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pecans and cook, stirring, until golden brown and toasted, about 5 minutes. Add sugar and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Transfer to a piece of waxed paper to cool. Variation: Add cayenne pepper or use walnuts. Blanch the walnuts in boiling water for about 5 minutes first. Store at room temperature.
Rustic Croutons The addition of these, along with some meat or cheese can turn a simple tossed salad into a meal. Your best bets for these large chewy/crunchy croutons is a bread with texture and an airy crumb, such as baguette, ciabatta, or focaccia. Day (or several days) old is most suitable. Use great quality oil, don’t overbake and your results are guaranteed. Leftover rustic-style bread extra virgin olive oil sea salt and fresh-cracked pepper. Preheat the oven to 350ºF
candied bacon 12 slices
bacon, about 1/4-inch thick fresh-cracked black pepper
1/3 c
e.l.K.s. Berry and vegetable u-Pick farm Raspberries, saskatoons, strawberries, other vegetables. St. Albert, 780-460-2499
sugar left in the bowl over the bacon. Top with another layer of parchment or foil and top it, squarely, with another baking sheet. This will keep the bacon flat as it cooks.
light brown sugar
Preheat the oven to 325ºF. Put bacon slices in a bowl, season them with pepper and toss with the brown sugar. Line a baking sheet with parchment or foil and arrange the bacon in a single layer. Sprinkle any
Cut the bread into fairly large cubes, about ¾ inch. Place in a bowl and drizzle oil over. Use a generous amount of oil, but don’t soak the croutons. Season, adding a bit of lemon juice or fresh herbs if the salad calls for it. Place croutons on a baking sheet and bake for 6-12 minutes until turning brown. Serve immediately or within a few days.
The Tomato | July August 2010 11
indulgence’10 A RECIPE FOR
The annual local food extravaganza by
Slow Food Edmonton fed and watered over 400 guests who love good food
and drink, and showcased the efforts of 60 regional farmers, producers, ranchers, brewmasters, winemakers, winery principals and agents, chefs and restaurateurs. Here’s a snapshot of the event—a few of the dishes adapted for the home kitchen. Event photos Curtis Comeau Photogrpahy
12 July August 2010 | The Tomato
Madison’s Grill: Vanessa Oleksyn, Corey McGuire, Caitlin Fulton, Josh Methot (Dream Wines), and chef Blair Lebsack. Below: lamb meatballs.
Madison’s Grill, Union Bank Inn
Braised Lamb Shanks
Executive chef Blair Lebsack 10053 Jasper Avenue, 780-401-2222, unionbankinn.com
1
lamb shank
½
onion cut in large dice
2 cloves
garlic
Four Whistle Farm
1
small carrot cut in large dice
Marius and Twiggy de Boer Millet, Old Strathcona Farmers Market, fourwhistlefarm@yahoo.ca
4-5 c
beef stock
2 glugs
white wine
Joie Farm Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn 2825 Naramata Road, Naramata, British Columbia
Four Whistle Farm Lamb Meatballs with Braised Lamb Shank* Lamb Meatballs 2/
5
lb
ground lamb
1
shallot, minced
4 cloves
garlic, minced
1c
ricotta
½c
fresh-grated parmesan
2 sprigs
rosemary (minced)
canola oil Preheat oven to 310F Season lamb shanks with salt and pepper. Add a drizzle of canola oil in a hot oven-proof pan and sear lamb shanks on all sides. Remove shanks, add onion, carrot and garlic, sauté for a few minutes and allow to caramelize, then deglaze the pan with the wine. Allow wine to reduce by half, add lamb shanks and enough beef stock to go ¾ of the way to the top of the shanks. Bring to a light simmer. Place a piece of parchment paper directly on top of shanks and cover with a tight-fitting lid or foil.
Put in oven and braise for about 3 hours or until fork tender. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Pull meat off the bone and shred into small pieces. Strain sauce Finishing the dish: Use large heavy bottom sauté pan or braising pot. Add the meatballs back into the pan and enough of the braising liquid to bring it about ¼ of the way up the meatballs. Slowly simmer the meatballs to finish cooking them while the liquid is reducing. Add the shredded lamb shank into pan. This should take about 15 minutes to finish cooking the meatballs and have the liquid reduce down to a nice glaze. Turn the meatballs in the pan so the glaze and shredded lamb shank completely coats and sticks to the meatballs. Add a few leaves of chopped fresh mint and toss again. Serve on pea and asparagus couscous. Continued next page
salt and pepper to taste canola oil ½c
white balsamic vinegar
Place all ingredients in a bowl and combine thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper and roll into golf ball sized balls. Pan fry meatballs in a mediumhot pan until meatballs are browned on all sides. Do not over-crowd pan. Cook in batches if necessary. Once all meatballs are browned, remove from pan and drain oil. Deglaze pan with white balsamic vinegar and reduce until only a light coating remains. Return the meatballs to the pan. Reserve.
The Tomato | July August 2010 13
2½ t
chili paste
1 oz
ginger
½c
carrot
½c
onion
½c
celery
Grill whole bacon slab until fully caramelized. Place all ingredients in a large pan. Cover with tin foil. Bake in oven for 4 hours at 350ºF. Remove from liquid and place on cooling rack to stop cooking process. To serve, heat remaining braising liquid and pour over bacon portions. Serves 10.
Bacon Jam 1 sm piece Irvings Farm Fresh bacon slab cut into medium cubes ½c
frozen peaches
½c
frozen sour cherries
Using a pot sauté bacon until majority of the bacon fat is rendered. Top: LUX steakhouse+bar chef Tony Le with Matt Phillips and Andrew Cowan. Left: braised bacon dish.
Add peaches and caramelize. Add cherries and cook until fruit is soft. Using an emulsion blender, blitz until smooth then strain with fine strainer. Makes about ½ cup.
LUX steakhouse+bar
Cafe de Ville
Chef Tony Le 10150 101 Street, 780-424-0400, luxsteak.com
Chef Paul Campbell 10137 124 Street, 780-488-9188, cafedeville.com
Irving’s Farm Fresh Sausage
Belle Valley Farm Alpaca
Alan and Nicola Irving Round Hill, irvingsfarmfresh.com
Mike Lutz, Morinville, mikelutz27@hotmail.com
Ex Nihilo Vineyards
Okanagan Valley, missionhillwinery.com
The Harder and Paulsen Families Lake Country, British Columbia exnihilovineyards.com
Braised Irvings Farm Fresh Braised Bacon with Peach and Sour Cherry Bacon Jam
Mission Hill Family Estate
Spiced-crust Roasted Belle Valley Alpaca with Yorkshire Pudding and Pan Jus Mission Hill 2006 Shiraz Reserve Yorkshire Pudding
Ex Nihilo 2007 Riesling Braised Irvings Farm Fresh braised bacon with peach and sour cherry bacon jam paired with Ex Nihilo 2007 Riesling.
14 July August 2010 | The Tomato
1.25 lbs
Irvings Farm Fresh bacon slab
2c
water
2c
beef stock
1 each
bay leaves
1T
peppercorns
2T
brown sugar
2t
honey
1t
salt
canola oil 1c
flour
½t
salt
1c
milk (at room temperature)
4
eggs (at room temperature)
Preheat oven to 400F. Sift flour and salt into a bowl. Make well in center. Add eggs and milk. Mix until well combined. In a muffin tin (or Yorkshire tin if available) pour 1 tsp of canola oil into bottom of all tins. Place in oven and allow oil to heat until oil is very hot. about 1520 minutes (watch your pans) Remove from oven and quickly add 2T of batter to each tin and place
Tzin Wine & Tapas Chef Neil Chamberlain 10115 104 Street, 780-428-8946, tzin.ca
Irving’s Farm Fresh Sausage Alan and Nicola Irving Round Hill, irvingsfarmfresh.com
Sandhill Winery Okanagan Valley, sandhillwines.ca, andrewpeller.com
Irvings Farm Fresh Berkshire Pulled Pork Chili with a Blueberry Buttermilk Pancake and Smoked Cheddar Shallot Cream* 2008 Sandhill Chardonnay Pulled Pork
Chef Paul Campbell and sous-chef Tracy Zizek of Cafe de Ville, with Mike and Daise Lutz (Belle Valley Alpaca) in background.
back in oven. Bake at 400F for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 350F and continue to bake for another 1015 minutes. Avoid opening the oven until the last few minutes of cooking to avoid collapsing the Yorkshires. Make sure Yorkshires are dry and firm before removing from oven. Makes 12.
Spice-crusted Roast Alpaca
Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a bowl, mix garlic chips, crushed coriander, dried thyme, pepper, and salt. Reserve. Place cut vegetables into bottom of roasting pan, along with garlic, fresh thyme, wine, and brown stock. Heat frying pan with a little canola oil. Sear all sides of roast until brown crust is achieved. Remove from pan. Press reserved spice mix into all sides of roast. Place in roasting pan and bake at 350ºF until internal temperature reaches 125ºF. Remove from oven. The internal temperature will continue to rise after roast is removed from oven. It is important not to cook alpaca past medium rare (135ºF) as it will become tough and dry. While meat is resting, take juices from bottom of pan and re-heat for serving (Alpaca is lean. There should be no need to skim fat from juices.) After resting, slice and serve in the Yorkshires. Serves 6.
5 lbs
Irvings Berkshire pork shoulder
2 btls
apple cider
½ lb
wild boar bacon, chopped in a fine dice
3c
diced celery
3c
diced onion
3c
diced red bell pepper
½c
fresh chopped garlic
½c
roasted garlic
1c
fresh chopped parsley
1c
fresh chopped oregano
¼c
hot Hungarian paprika
¾c
chili powder
2T
sea salt
2T
black pepper
14 oz
black beans
14 oz
baked beans
28 oz
red kidney beans
56 oz
crushed tomato
3T
sugar
3
fresh jalapeno peppers
1
inside round alpaca roast (2-3lb)
1½ t
dried garlic chips
¾t
whole coriander, crushed
¾t
dried thyme
1t
black pepper
1t
coarse salt
½c
red wine
1½c
brown stock
1
carrot cut into 1 inch pieces.
Preheat oven to 325º
1
large onion cut into 1 inch pieces.
1 stalk
celery cut into 1 inch pieces.
Season pork shoulder well with salt and pepper and place in a deep baking dish. Pour apple cider over until meat is ½ covered. Cover and bake for 3 hours, remove cover and bake for another hour. Remove shoulder from dish and cool completely. Refrigerate overnight. Remove crackling and fat cap, pull pork with fingers or fork so it is shredded. Cover and refrigerate pulled pork.
2 sprigs of fresh thyme 4 cloves garlic
Please see Indulgence on page 28
The Tomato | July August 2010 15
Cookbook Feature
250 Home Preserving Favourites by Yvonne Tremblay, published by Robert Rose, 389 pages.
16 July August 2010 | The Tomato
Yvonne is a four-time Grand Champion Jam and Jelly Maker at the Royal Winter Fair. Her interest in preserving began during youthful Saskatchewan summers canning and preserving with her grandmother and cousin—suberb training for a life in food. Chutneys, jellies, spreads, jams, marmalades, and conserves both sweet and savoury—250 Home Preserving Favorites not only explains the difference between these, but also teaches how to become practiced in the art of preserving. No longer will that case of plums from the Okanagan be left for the fruit flies. Zucchini, rather than languishing as a brick (I mean cake), will star as the lead ingredient in a marmalade. Just think what you will be able to do with strawberries. Not only jam, but fig strawberry jam with balsamic vinegar, strawberry canteloupe jam,
strawberry mango daiquiri jam, strawberry rhubarb orange jam, and strawberry banana no-cook jam. This book has them all. The 20-page primer on preserving is jam-packed with tips, produce and equipment suggestions, buying charts, all extremely useful information for both the novice and experienced home preserver. 250 Home Preserving Favorites is not a coffee table book. Expect it to spend several years in the kitchen, getting stickier with use and lovingly coveted by sons and daughters. It’s that good, that essential, and right in tune with the resurgence of interest in putting things by. Canning: not for grannies anymore. Thank you Yvonne Tremblay for being our grandmother in spirit, leading us by the wooden spoon down the road of preserving summer’s bounty.
Blackberry Blueberry Micro-Mini Jam Makes about two 8-ounce (250 mL) jars. Blackberries provide the pectin needed to set this jam. Enjoy the rich berry taste. 1½ c blueberries 1c
blackberries
1¾ c granulated sugar 1. In a 16-c microwave-safe bowl, combine blueberries and blackberries. Partially cover bowl with plastic wrap, leaving a gap for some of the steam to escape. Microwave on high for 3 minutes or until hot. Remove and discard plastic. Using a potato masher, crush berries. 2. Stir in sugar until dissolved. 3. Microwave, uncovered, on high for 2 minutes; stir and scrape down sides of bowl. Microwave on high again for 2 minutes; stir and scrape down sides of bowl. Repeat in 1-minute
intervals for another 2 to 4 minutes, or until jam froths up and thickens; stir and scrape down sides each time. 4. Test for setting point. Microwave in additional 1-minute intervals as needed. 5. Remove from microwave. Stir slowly until foam subsides; skim off any remaining foam. 6. Ladle into clean jars; wipe rims. Apply metal lids and rings or use plastic lids; tighten until snug. Transfer to a towel-lined surface and let rest at room temperature until set. Refrigerate for up to 3 weeks. Tip: A heat-resistant silicone spatula is great for scraping down the sides of the bowl when stirring.
Tomato Apple Chipotle Chutney
Saskatoon Berry Jam
Makes about four 8-ounce (250 mL) jars. The aroma while this chutney is cooking is amazing! I used chipotle peppers, which give it an interesting smoked flavor.
Makes about six 8-ounce (250 mL) jars. These dark purple berries with large seeds grow wild in many parts of Canada, especially in the Prairies, but are cultivated as well. They have a distinctive taste you don’t forget. My Aunt Alice, of North Battleford, Saskatchewan, suggested the addition of cinnamon, which she puts in a sauce she makes from Saskatoon berries.
4c
chopped seeded peeled plum (Roma) tomatoes
4c
chopped peeled apples that soften
2c
chopped onions
1½ c packed brown sugar ¾c
granulated sugar
1c
cider vinegar
2
large cloves garlic, minced
2t
finely minced drained canned 10 mL chipotle pepper, or to taste
1t
salt
1⁄ 8
t
¾c
ground cloves golden or sultana raisins
1. In a Dutch oven or a large, deep, heavy-bottomed pot, combine tomatoes, apples, onions, brown sugar, granulated sugar, vinegar, garlic, chipotle pepper, salt and cloves. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often. 2. Reduce heat and boil gently, stirring often and reducing heat further as mixture thickens, for 45 minutes. Stir in raisins; cook, stirring often, for 15 to 20 minutes or until thickened. Test for doneness.
3. Ladle into sterilized jars to within ½ inch of rim. Remove any air pockets and adjust headspace, if necessary, by adding chutney; wipe rims. Apply prepared lids and rings; tighten rings just until fingertip-tight. 4. Process jars in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes (for details, see page 20). Transfer jars to a towel-lined surface and let rest at room temperature until cooled. Check seals; refrigerate any unsealed jars for up to 3 weeks. Tip: Varieties of apples that soften when cooked include McIntosh, Cortland, Empire and Russet.
Variations Tomato Basil Chutney with Sun-Dried Tomatoes: Omit the chipotle peppers, ground cloves and raisins. Add 2 t dried basil, 1 t dried oregano and ½ c finely chopped softened sun-dried tomatoes.
6c
Saskatoon berries
3T
lemon juice
5c
granulated sugar
1t
ground cinnamon
6 oz
liquid pectin (2 pouches)
1. In a large, deep, heavy-bottomed pot, combine berries and lemon juice; crush with a potato masher. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes or until berries are softened. Bring to a full boil over high heat, stirring constantly. 2. Add sugar in a steady stream, stirring constantly. Stir in cinnamon. Return to a full boil, stirring constantly to dissolve sugar.
3. Immediately stir in pectin; return to a full boil. Boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. 4. Remove from heat and skim off any foam. Stir for 5 to 8 minutes to prevent floating fruit. 5. Ladle into sterilized jars to within ¼ inch of rim. Wipe rims and apply prepared lids and rings; tighten rings just until fingertip-tight. 6. Process jars in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes. Transfer jars to a towel-lined surface and let rest at room temperature until set. Check seals; refrigerate any unsealed jars for up to 3 weeks. Recipe Suggestion: Warm this jam, dilute it with a little water or orange juice and serve over pancakes or waffles.
Yellow Tomato Chutney: Use yellow tomatoes in place of the plum tomatoes, and replace the chipotle pepper with 1 tbsp finely chopped jalapeño peppers. The Tomato | July August 2010 17
wine maven
| mary bailey
Summer whites and a rosé for hot days and patio nights Just because it’s summer doesn’t mean we’re forced to drink one-dimensional quaffers that bore after half a glass. That said, simple isn’t easy. The wines below exhibit seemingly effortless sophistication—the vinous equivalent of the little black dress.
Mission Hill 2008 Okanagan Valley Reserve Riesling (BC) The nominal amount of residual sugar is kept refreshing by near-perfect acidity allowing the lovely lime, pear and red apple aromas and flavours to shine. One of a good Riesling’s great charms is its ability to work with just about any food—green and yellow curries, salads, bitter greens, fresh summer vegetables, even steak.
Tinhorn 2009 South Okanagan Chardonnay (BC) Tinhorn’s 2009 exhibits all we love about Okanagan Valley Chard; lively food-friendly acidity balanced by subtle creamy richness. There is a nice juicy complexity in the flavours with layers of fruit from green apple and Okanagan stone fruit to a whisper of tropicality, pineapple and melon, plus some fresh herbs. This wine is extremely versatile, complementing both trout in green curry and simple grilled salmon with rosemary. Our suggestion? Keep a bottle of this in your fridge at all times for emergencies.
Greywacke 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand) Expectations were high, then more than exceeded. A wine by the master of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, Kevin Judd (Cloudy Bay) now on his own, redefining the category—again. This sauv blanc is subtle, with an elegant, sure-footed minerality, and evanescent fragrance of lime, yellow grapefruit, nectarine and just-picked ripe peach that comes in waves as if on a summer breeze. Fullbodied yet understated, with a firm structure containing lush fruit—we couldn’t stop thinking about (or drinking) this wine.
White Bear VQA Pinot Blanc (Okanagan Valley, BC) Drink this and feel good, not just because the wine is a terrific sipper and value priced, but because 15 per cent of the sales go to support conservation efforts for the white bear (Kermode) habitat in British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest. White Bear Wines donated $100,000 on its first anniversary, April 2010. We like the crisp and clean flavours of the Pinot Blanc as an aperitif.
18 July August 2010 | The Tomato
Joie Farm Rose (Naramata, BC) Crisp, focused, packing a wallop of generous juicy red fruit. We loved this with a tangy strawberry and goat cheese salad or try with crispy calamari. The Joie rose could handle a bit of heat as well. Find these wines in better wine shops.
event calendar Sunday, July 11
Wednesday August 18
Taste! Of Summer, The Edmonton Regional Tourism Group Country Cuisine. edmontonscountryside.com
Merlot Mania, Bin 104 Fine Wine and Spirits. www.bin104.com
Wednesday July 14
Sunday, August 22
Mainly Malbec, Bin 104 Fine Wine and Spirits. www.bin104.com
Slow Food Edmonton Greens Eggs and Ham Picnic. slowfoodedmonton.ca.
Friday, July 23 Wine and Grill, Bin 104 Fine Wine and Spirits. www.bin104.com
Wednesday August 4 Wine and Coffee, Bin 104 Fine Wine and Spirits. www.bin104.com
we’re at the downtown farmers’ market on select saturdays: July 3, 10, 24, 31 and August 7, 14 and 28. look for the chandelier, near the blue plate diner
mark your calendars Sunday, September 26 Slow Food Edmonton Road Trip. slowfoodedmonton.ca
Sunday, October 17
Sunday, August 8
International Sommelier Guild Diploma begins. internationalsommelier.com.
Slow Food Edmonton Beer and Boar BBQ. slowfoodedmonton.ca
October
Fringe Internet Café (85 Avenue, north part of the Fringe site)
Wine & Sprit Education Trust (WSET) Foundation (Level One), Intermediate (Level Two), Advanced (Level Three). 1 800-667-7288, winecollege.ca.
Sunday, August 15
October
Tomato Fare, The Edmonton Regional Tourism Group Country Cuisine. edmontonseountryside.com
2010 Edmonton Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival. rockymountainwine.com
Wednesday August 13-21
sundried tomato pesto torta citrus mango salsa, compound butters, roasted red pepper spread, hummus, chipotle salsa, ultra-healthy spinach dip
The Tomato | July August 2010 19
Brad on BarBecuing:
e p i c e r 3 , 3 meats beer-brined pork chops This is probably one the best methods for cooking any type of lean white meat or poultry. When you make the brine, make sure that it is absolutely cold when you pour over the meat. The brine seals in the moisture and adds flavour to the meat. It is imperative that you use kosher or sea salt. Feel free to use different flavors. At Christmas time, I use rosemary and cinnamon in place of the other spices. 4
Our grilling expert is chef Brad Smoliak, author of the excellent Canadian Barbecue Cookbook. Brad’s beer-brined pork chops were the hit of the menu at Alberta House during the Vancouver Olympics. We asked him to give us that recipe and two others to both showcase high-quality meats on offer, and to help the regular backyard barbecuemeister move beyond hamburgers and smokies (not that there’s anything wrong with that).
boneless leg of lamb
1T
grainy mustard (Brassica, my favorite)
2T
olive oil
2T
fresh rosemary, rough chopped
¼c
chopped garlic
tequila-marinated flat iron steak
2T
fresh squeezed lemon juice
1c
yogurt
The flat iron steak is an extremely flavourful piece of meat that lends itself well to marinating. The lime juice combined with the subtle heat of the chile and the savoury tang of the tequila makes for a great tasting steak. It’s important that the steak is not overcooked. Remember to slice against the grain. If flat iron steak is unavailable, you may use flank.
1c
2 lb
flat iron steak
1T
chopped garlic
Preheat grill to medium-high on one side and low on the other.
1t
dried chili flakes
Brine for meat: water
1 btl.
Alley Kat pale ale (or other full-flavoured beer)
¾c
kosher salt
½c
maple syrup
1 t.
cloves
½ t.
nutmeg
½ t.
allspice
1
bay leaf
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Bring mixture to rolling boil, turn down, and allow to simmer for 10-20 minutes to develop all of the flavors. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until cold. Pour the brine over meat and marinate. for about for 1-2 hours per pound of meat.
juice and zest of one lime (about ¼ c)
Remove brine and rinse well under cold water. Pat dry.
2T
tequila
¼c
extra virgin olive oil
Lightly oil the pork chops, grill over medium high heat until desired doneness. Check the internal temperature with an instant read thermometer.
Mix all ingredients together. Reserve 2 T and pour the rest over the steak or into a plastic bag, Allow to marinate for 4–6 hours in the fridge.
Serves 4
Preheat grill to high.
Hint: Make sure to rinse the pork after marinating. Any cooking method may be used for the pork— anything from grilling to roasting.
Grill the steak about 3-4 minutes per side, for medium rare, turning once. Once flipped, brush with reserved marinade. Once finished cooking, allow to relax on platter for 5 minutes. Slice and serve at once.
20 July August 2010 | The Tomato
Leg of lamb is great on the grill. The leg has lots of tender meat that absorbs marinades well. In addition to this, due to the contour of the boneless leg, some pieces will get done more than others, which will please everyone. 3–5 lb
pork chops (or pork loin)
2L
pistachio-dusted leg of lamb
sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper pistachio nuts, finely crushed (reserved) pomegranate molasses* Mix mustard, olive oil, rosemary, garlic lemon juice, and yogurt together. Smear this all over the lamb, making sure to press into all of the crevices. Allow to marinate for 6 hours or overnight.
Remove the lamb from the marinade. Remove some of the excess marinade. Grill on hot side of the grill— if flare-ups happen, move to the lower heat. The leg will take between 30-45 minutes for medium rare. If you would like to cook longer, turn heat off and close lid for another 10-15 minutes. Relax for 15 minutes, dust with the reserved pistachios and carve into ½ inch slices. Drizzle with pomegranate molasses. Serves 6-8. * Pomegranate molasses is available at the Italian Centre Shop.
es.
NEW! www.originalfare.com
the tomato recommends:
meat sources pork: First Nature Farm (Old Strathcona Farmers Market) Irvings Farm Fresh (City Farmers Market on 104 street, Old Strathcona Farmers Market) Sunworks Farm (Old Strathcona Farmers Market)
Beef: Spring Creek Ranch (springcreekranch.ca) Trowlesworthy Farm (Old Strathcona Farmers Market)
VISIT THE NEW ORIGINAL FARE WEBSITE FOR:
Updated promotions and event information Pick up a new Original Fare billstuffer for new listings of Original Fare restaurants.
10
Experience different Original Fare restaurants before April 30, 2010 and you can enter to win a $250 Original Fare gift card! Have your entry form stamped at all participating restaurants.
STREAMLINED GIFT CARD PURCHASING Now you can buy in Canadian dollars and use your credit card!
GOT A LIVE ORIGINAL VIP CARD? We will be redeeming your VIP points for Gift Cards in early spring. Have you moved? Access your Live Original VIP account online and update your contact information to ensure you receive your rewards.
wondering what a live original vip card is? Want to earn gift card dollars every time you dine at a participating Original Fare restaurant? Visit our website to find out about the VIP card program and how you can participate.
Looking for news ways to raise funds for your local, not-for-profit organization? The Original Fare program may be for you. Contact jessie@originalfare.com for details.
lamB: Four Whistle Farm (Old Strathcona Farmers Market) The Tomato | July August 2010 21
Shop where the chefs shop.
drinks
| bryan saunders
Tequila 101 Having just regained consciousness, they’re cradling their head in their hands, bent over in pain. “When did my skull expand to six times its normal size?” they wonder. Suddenly, memories of the night before come back in a bright flash. After a solemn pause, they swear, “I’m never drinking tequila again.”
278 Cree Road in Sherwood Park • 780.449-.3710 Open Monday to Thursday 10-5 • Friday to Saturday 9-6
Furthermore, real tequila isn’t mass-manufactured and sold at $16 bucks a bottle; it’s lovingly handcrafted by true artisans and comes with a price tag that reflects all love and care that has gone into it.
Diversify Your Palate. RICE HOWARD WAY
DOWNTOWN
10154 100 STREET EDMONTON
P: 780.757.2005
www.edmontonpubs.com
Specializing in “Kickin Ash Buffalo” locally raised bison dishes. Lunch and Dinner The warmest place in town.
22 July August 2010 | The Tomato
They brought this pain upon themselves, of course; real Tequila isn’t enjoyed by the bottle, but by the glass.
Here in Canada, though, where the most wellknown brands of tequila are massproduction giants like Cuervo and Sauza, this fact is sometimes lost. This is why I paid a visit to the Los Osuna distillery—familyowned since 1876—to learn a little bit more about the history of tequila.
in its roughly ten-year life-cycle. This is one of the most important steps because an agave that is too young doesn’t yet have enough starch and an agave that’s too old has already used all of its starch to produce a flowering stem. Most blue agaves on the Osuna’s farm reach their peak after seven or eight years of care, Torres explains. Depending on the soil and the weather, this timeframe can vary. Jimadores, experienced agave farmers, are the only ones who really know when an agave plant is ready to be harvested. Once harvested, the prickly spines of the agave are removed and only the heart of the plant, called the piña, is kept. The piña looks a lot like a pineapple except it has white flesh instead of yellow, and— oh yeah—it’s enormous, with some weighing up to 200 pounds. With my fingers, I carve a small piece of flesh out of an already harvested piña and put the morsel in my mouth. The raw fruit is drier than a pineapple, I find, and tastes like a cross between raw potato and sugarcane.
“We don’t use any chemicals or pesticides here,” explains my guide, Jonathan Torres. “We make a product that is 100 percent natural, and we make it using a traditional process.”
The fruit of the piña isn’t used raw, however, it’s chopped up and then roasted in giant underground ovens to break the starches down into simple sugars which can be converted into alcohol.
That traditional process means, first of all, handpicking the blue agave (also known as the Agave tequilana) at just the right moment
Once roasted, the pieces of piña are milled in a motorized milling machine or in a stone-mill powered Please see Drinks on page 29
eating for two
| krysta forrest, bpe, cpt
Finding your fitness/nutrition balance During the first half of my pregnancy, I was filled with excitement. Motivation to keep active was high, and healthy eating a priority. My dream of motherhood was coming true. I was on top of the world. The second half? Not so much. My motivation for exercise dwindled—I barely managed putting on socks in the morning. I grew tired of healthy eating, constantly tempted to overindulge. I had to keep telling myself it may be easy to give up on fitness, but I had to show myself who I really was. Practice self-discipline! I persevered. Fitness—the easy part I was surprised by how well and how long I was able to keep up with my original program. But at 30 weeks, it was time to re-assess the routine. Running had to stop— it just didn’t feel right. Instead, brisk walking with the odd hill and a set of stairs thrown in did the trick. I didn’t feel safe on the roads, so I traded the outdoor bike for a comfortable indoor gym model. Of course, there are physical benefits to cardio—the breathing, the circulation, the calories burned—but what I could really feel was the emotional shift. Cardiovascular exercise cleared my mind. This was a chance for me to be with me—something that will be hard to come by all too soon. A quick getaway or escape was something that I looked forward to—even if it was only a walk around the block. I was not about to enter motherhood struggling to carry a car seat and diaper bag, so I continued to lift weights. I love resistance training and feeling strong, but I was ready to step away from the dynamic movements toward more controlled and supported positions (the range of motion while lifting weights needs to be monitored closely because the pregnancy hormone relaxin loosens joints). I opted for resistance machines instead of free weights. For squats and lunges I would
hold on to something for balance. During my workouts, some people looked on, thinking I was crazy, but most smiled and cheered me on.
uncomfortable. My husband and I enjoy every quiet moment together because, even though it doesn’t feel like it, the baby will be here soon.
I love yoga—the ultimate mind/ body connection—and wasn’t going to give it up. Goodbye hot yoga; hello pre-natal class. The gentle movements, deep breathing, and appropriate instructor-led discussions specific to pregnancy helped prepare me for childbirth. I enjoyed the camaraderie of the women. Our sharing of stories and encouragement kept me positive. When frustrated and uncomfortable—even scared and overwhelmed—deep breathing and a giggle with the girls helped refocus and realign every time.
Next up: Days turn into nights and nights turn into days. Having a newborn is a new way of life. Where do you fit in—or do you?
1-2 hndsfl
fresh spinach leaves, washed and stemmed
I worked out until the day before I went into labour.
1 clove
garlic or shallot
½
cucumber
Nutrition—the hard part “You are not eating for two,” I would remind myself as my mother-in-law would slide a dish of buttery mashed potatoes my way. Here’s the skinny: 200 to 300 additional calories is all you need to sustain a healthy pregnancy. I felt ripped off. That’s another apple and a granola bar. What about the burgers and ice cream sundaes? Remember the equation: calories in = calories out, or there will be calories in storage, aka fat.
¼c
fresh parsley
1 hndfl
fresh herbs; mint, basil, thyme
1
green onion
2-3
radishes
1
carrot
seven days a week.
juice of 1 small lemon
SHERBROOKE
Eating healthy foods, feeling satisfied, and working to keep emotions out of the picture was a balancing act to say the least. I avoided dietary blunders by planning ahead. Cut up veggies, lean proteins, dairy, and plenty of fruit filled our fridge. When your kitchen is filled with healthy choices, you can’t go wrong. Take advantage of what the season offers. Summer pregnancy means delicious salads and fresh Okanagan fruit. In winter, think of hearty soups and stews. It’s fresh and it’s bountiful—making use of what is local and in season just makes sense. In the later stages of pregnancy, patience wears thin. Will this baby ever arrive? The thought of having even six weeks to go is just
Krysta Forrest is a well-trained fitness professional currently on maternity leave.
Mango with Spinach Dressing spinach dressing
¼ c (or so) mayonnaise ¼ c (or so) plain Bleswold yogurt sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper Chop spinach in food processor, then add all the vegetables and chop until finely minced. Turn out into a bowl and fold in lemon juice, mayo, and yogurt. Blend and season to taste. Add lemon juice or more salt and pepper to correct taste; correct texture with more yogurt or mayo.
bottles of beer
on the wall.
REALLY. We stock 500 brands of beer
LIQUOR STORE 11819 St. Albert Trail
(east side of traffic circle)
455-4556
ww
MoN
10235 - 124 Street N.W. Edmonton, AB
780.488.7656 www.dahliasbistro.com
salad 1 sml head lettuce, or ½ small bag mixed greens 1
500
mango sliced or cut in chunks juice and zest of 1 small lime
To serve. Arrange greens on plates. Toss mango with the dressing then place on the greens. Drizzle with limejuice and sprinkle zest. Add a piece of grilled chicken or sablefish to make a full meal. Serves 4-6.
MoNdAy to FridAy 11AM - 8PM SAturdAy 11AM - 5PM
10235 - 124 Street N.W. Edmonton, AB
780.488.7656 www.dahliasbistro.com MONDAY to FRIDAY 11AM - 8PM SATURDAY 11AM - 5PM
The Tomato | July August 2010 23
kitchen sink
| what’s new and notable
restaurant buzz Patrick and Doris Saurette will open The Marc at 9940 106 Street sometime in the fall. Expect about 50 seats, a relaxing terrace, great food, and the Saurette’s lovely hospitality. We can’t wait, yahoo! The tiny and perfect Elm Café (#100, 10140 – 117 Street, 780-756-3356) is now open— sandwiches, light lunches, coffee from 49th Parallel (a Vancouver roaster) and delish muffins from the Duchess. elmcafe.ca. The August 2009 fire in a restaurant hood gave the Delta Edmonton South (4404 Gateway Boulevard 780 434-6415) an opportunity to start over with a brand new kitchen, restaurant and bar. The resto, renamed the 4404, has a soft opening this summer. The three meal a day, 130 seat room features Sterling Silver Alberta beef, citrus-cured pickeral, Montreal smoked meat, and Anupa’s butter chicken, Anupa being a long-time employee known for her home cooking. Enjoy Amarone Night at Danilo’s Italian Café, 11812 St. Albert Trail, Sunday, July 11, 7-9 pm. Tickets $50, available at Sherbrooke Liquor Store, 11819 St Albert Trail. Enjoy the patio at The Fairmont Hotel Macdonald, open daily, depending on the weather, from 11 am to midnight. The Chef’s BBQ Menu, featuring baby back ribs and organic beef from southern Alberta’s Diamond Willow, is available Tuesday through Friday from 11 am-3 pm and Saturday from 1-5 pm. The Juniper Bistro in Banff’s Juniper Hotel brings back the blue plate special. Three courses for $30 are offered daily from 5-6 pm. What to do after dinner? Enjoy cruising on one of the Juniper’s fleet of Electra Delux Relic and Norco Santiago Seven Speed Cruisers, perfect for gliding around the Vermillion Lakes. The Juniper is also the first Banff hotel to be approved by Ocean Wise, the Vancouver Aquarium’s restaurant conservation program. thejuniper.com. The Castledowns Pita Pit (15351 Castle Downs Road, 780-406-6661) now offers breakfast on Saturday and Sundays, 8-11 am. “We serve a healthy, fast, and inexpensive breakfast. Nothing over $7,” says owner Nancy Facchin Belle.
24 July August 2010 | The Tomato
Original Fare has two new members; Moriarty’s Wine Bar (10154 100 Street, 780-757-2004) and Twisted Fork (11162 Whyte Avenue. 780-761-3675). Don’t miss Summer Fork Fest, July 18-22 and 25-29. Complete details at originalfare.com. At Rusty Reed’s House of Blues (12402 118 Avenue, 780-451-1390) Mayfair Country Club alumnus Robert Thomas has created a menu paying homage to blues towns from Chicago to New Orleans, with items such as mole-roasted rib fingers, a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, and a watermelon granita or pecan bread pudding. Thursday night is comedy night. The Blue Pear is now open seven nights a week. Offering live Jazz on Sundays and no corkage fee on Wednesdays. Call 780-482-7178 for reservations or visit thebluepear.com.
food travel Up coming Slow Food events: Slow Food Edmonton presents Road Trip to Bles Wold Dairy Farm and Sylvan Star Cheese with a meal at Eco Café Sunday, September 26. Lunch, dinner, farm tours, and transportation included, $75. Visit slowfoodedmonton.ca to book. Hankering for an ocean view? From July 18-25, Pueblo Bonito Oceanfront Resorts Chef Antonio de Livier hosts the annual 2010 PacifiCooks where celebrated chefs from across Mexico showcase their authentic and innovative cuisine. Pueblo Bonito’s Master Sommelier Juan Carlos will pair the chefs’ art with the best wines of Mexico. Visit pueblobonito.com. Join Chef Natasha Schooten, Watermark Wine Bar & Patio at the Watermark Beach Resort in Osoyoos, for Down and Dirty Farm Tours. Chef takes guests to nearby Covert Farms and Harker’s Organics for a true Okanagan farm experience. The day also includes cooking lessons and an alfresco lunch. Tour dates; July 29, August 26, September 30, and October 21, $70 per person. Watermark Beach Resort at 1-888755-3480, watermarkbeachresort.com. Brock Farm in Okanagan Falls is hosting Okanagan Feast of Fields, August 22. Expect twenty-five of the top chefs of the Okanagan-Similkameen paired with local farmers, wineries, and breweries to create
a wandering tasting menu. Tickets ($85 for adults, $15 for children aged 7-12, free under 6) at feastoffields.com. Proceeds benefit the work of FarmFolkCityFolk, such as the BC Seeds Project. 2010 Tinhorn Creek Canadian Concert Series is one of the most highly anticipated events in the South Okanagan—a fantastic blend of music, wine and friends in an incredible setting. Wide Mouth Mason, July 24; Dustin Bentall, August 28; Bedouin Soundclash, ($75) September 11. Tickets ($35) are on sale by phone only, 1-888-484-6467. Visit Spain’s scenic Costa Brava with one of the oldest and most respected culinary travel companies Food & Wine Trails. Enjoy a six-day, cooking, eating, and drinking program led by Spanish cuisine culinary expert and Costa Brava resident Jane Gregg. Programs are September 28, October 4 and 19. Or, visit Sicily in a small group accompanied by a Sicilian royal family member, owner of one of Sicily’s best wineries. Intimate, authentic, six-nights, October 4 departure. foodandwinetrails.com. AMA Travel is offering a Culinary Adventure to Barcelona October 16-24 featuring Barcelona’s unique architecture, a tour of the Cava region and the Miguel Torres Winery in the Penedes region, two half-day cooking classes, and a visit to historic Montserrat. The trip includes round-trip airfare, seven-nights hotel, daily breakfast, five lunches, and two dinners. $2299 per person plus $305 taxes—based on two people sharing. Call 1-866-667-4777 or visit AMATravel.ca Join Gail Hall on a tour of the South Okanagan, October 29-31. Itinerary and prices available soon at seasonedsolutions. ca or watermarkbeachresort.com. Snuffle for truffles during the inaugural Napa Truffle Festival December 1012, organized by the American Truffle Company featuring a unique combination of truffle experts along with Michelin star chefs. The weekend includes receptions, dinners, banquets, and cultivation and culinary education. Sadly, no truffle hunt is mentioned. Visit napatrufflefestival.com for updates and reservations.
wine tastings happenings and events Upcoming tastings at Bin 104 (5454 Calgary Trail, 780-436-8850, bin104.com) Mainly Malbec July 14, 7 pm, $30; Wine and Grill, July 23, 7 pm, $40; Wine and Coffee, August 4, 7 pm, $35; Merlot Mania, August 18, 7 pm, $40. International Sommelier Guild Diploma studies begin October 17. Prerequisites are ISG Wine Fundamentals Level One and Two. The instructor is Heather Kingston, ISG certified sommelier. For information visit internationalsommelier.com. The Fringe Internet Café offers wine tastings sponsored by Andrew Peller. Check online for shows or write reviews, all while sampling wines from Sandhill, Red Rooster, Copper Moon, Peller Estates and Calona Vineyards. Enjoy live sneak previews between 7 and 9 pm. The 29th annual Fringe runs August 12-22. Wine & Sprit Education Trust (WSET) courses, taught in over 58 countries and considered the gold standard in wine education, offers courses starting in October. Intermediate Studies in Wines & Spirits (Level Two) is ideal for those in the trade, retail or hospitality, and wine-saavy consumers; Foundation (Level One) is a practical, entry-level program for those with little or no previous wine background. Advanced (Level Three) begins in October as well. For more information and to register, 1 800667-7288 or visit winecollege.ca.
product news Italian Centre Shops (10878-95 Street, 780-424-4869; 5028 104A Street 780-989-4869) now stocks an intriguing white truffle-infused flour called Elle Esse Farina di Tartufo Bianco (250 gram bag, $19.98). Now that would make a delicious pasta.
Cally’s Teas (8610 99 Street, 780432-3294) has several new products in time for summer. The JoeMo Wide Base Travel Mug comes with a handle like a regular mug, still keeps beverages hot for up to eight hours, is seriously leak-proof and has a handy silicone, non-slip base, $28.99. Keep your mornings romantic, tattoo toast with an I Love You using a metal imprinter cookie cutter, for $4.95. The distinctively packaged Kusmi Teas from France are now in stock (try the violet black tea or the samovar black for a rich tea experience). Also in stock: delicious jams from Quebec made with Kusmi Tea, Green Jasmine Marmalade, and Saint Petersbrug Jelly with Red Fruit, $9.99-S19.99. Two of our favourite wine folks Peter and Jane Ellmann revamped the Chalet Winery on Saanich Peninsula, called it Muse and are making some terrific wines there, such as their Syrah, Ortega and Rose. Muse Winery & Bistro Muse, 250-656-2552, MuseWinery. ca. Buy Muse at the Wine Cellar, Liquor Select, Crestwood, Vines and Bin 104. Drink it with dinner at Hardware, Madison’s Grill, Ruth’s Chris, Red Ox, Skinny Legs, Normand’s, Packrats, T’zin, Sage, and The Blue Pear. Gail Hall’s Market Fresh Classes at the Downtown Farmers’ Market run July 3, 17, and August 7 and 28. The menu changes as seasonal market ingredients become available. Each class is limited to eight people and includes ingredients, recipe kit, certificate, and wine. $175, including GST. Email gailhall@ shaw.ca to register. Cask-conditioned beer is all the rage. Recently, Sherbrooke took delivery of four Special Edition Glen Breton barrels from Cape Breton’s Glenora Distillers. They will be filled with either Alley Kat Full Moon or Amber and aged for about a month. Then the result will be called Glen Sherbrook. You can enjoy the cask beers at the Sugarbowl as well. You can now buy Robert Sgamboro’s excellent smoked salmon online at sgambaros.com.
Cellar Door Cake & Catering Co (12415 107 Avenue 780-4518882) is a new caterer and cake studio specializing in corporate breakfasts and lunches, hors d’oeuvres receptions, and cakes of all descriptions. Storefront is open Monday-Friday from noon to 6:30 pm. Chef Darren Zwicker runs the show and draws on experience gained at CP Hotels, Westin, and the Mayfair Golf and Country club. Visit facebook.com/cellar-doorcake-catering-co for pics of some beautifully detailed cakes.
The Newget Kompany will be at the Downtown Farmers Market on July 10 and 24 and August 28. Visit newget.ca for quick dessert ideas using Newget.
Take the edge off a hot summer’s day with Monin Ice Tea Concentrates. Yerba Maté is known in South America as the liquid vegetable, containing 24 essential vitamins and nutrients. Enjoy the benefits with Maté Factor; six flavors to choose from. New coffees include Kilimanjaro Dark and Guatemalan Santa Clara, both very flavourful and aromatic. Also new, the OCS Pro Brewer with thermal carafe makes delicious hot coffee. All, at the Java Jive Coffee Factory, 9929 77 Avenue, 780-432-9148.
New and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink can be faxed to 780-433-0492.
Citrus, foods for entertaining will be at the Downtown Farmers Market on July 3, 10, 24 and 31 and August 7, 14, 21 and 28. Call Mary at 780-431-1802 for preorders of sun-dried tomato pesto torto or other entertaining dips and spreads. Near the Blue Plate Diner, look for the chandelier.
Enjoy the sights, sounds and tastes of Tuscany this fall with the University of Alberta Alumni School in Cortona!
Bella Toscana An 11-day exploration of the tastes & wonders of Tuscany
This special program, open to U of A alumni — as well as friends and family — explores the history, culture and worldfamous cuisine of Tuscany. It is based in friendly Cortona, one of the most engaging of the Italian hill towns. Through field trips, lectures and handson experiences we’ll enjoy the autumn wine harvest, taste freshly pressed olive oil, learn about the mysterious Etruscans, and visit Pienza, Perugia and Orvieto. A special taste of Tuscany awaits you. October 19–29, 2010
$3,125 per person* *double occupancy, airfare not included Call or e-mail now for more information: 780-492-1835 or alumnitravel@ualberta.ca
www.ualberta.ca/alumni/cortona
The Tomato | July August 2010 25
feeding people So many mouths to feed Being a volunteer has never sounded so sweet… Or savoury. More than 3,000 volunteers, artists, and staff are lined up for the 2010 Edmonton Folk Festival. And they need to be fed. While such world-class talent as Van Morrison and Jimmy Rankin is undoubtedly the main draw, it doesn’t hurt to have talented kitchen crews preparing meals for those behind the scenes, as well as those on stage.
When I first met the people at the folk fest I told them: ‘Guys, I’ve never cooked for 3,000 people.’ Their response: “Nobody has cooked for 3,000 people.” Levesque credits his team of 200 kitchen volunteers and a handful of staff for making his first year run smoothly. “The volunteers are amazing. Some have no previous kitchen experience but all of them love food.” Levesque started thinking about his 2010 world rustic menu in
Volunteers at last year’s Folk Fest. All photos: Anne Marie Resta, Edmonton Folk Music Festival.
sin
ce
197
6
“If you are fed well, you can concentrate on getting your job done,” says Lynette Maurice, a volunteer who’s worked almost every festival since its inception three decades ago. “I would do anything because they put so much time and consideration into looking after me.” That’s music to the ears of Stephane Levesque, the Folk Fest’s second-year kitchen manager. Dishes like Alberta buffalo sausage in saskatoon berry sauce, spring rolls with rhubarb chutney, and red snapper chipotle tacos with warm lime coriander red slaw tempted his diners last year. Levesque’s largest previous catering job was a wedding for 180.
26 July August 2010 | The Tomato
December drawing from his offseason cooking experiences in resorts and forestry camps. He’s currently perfecting a Polish pasta called kopusta tasta made with sauerkraut and caramelized onions to serve alongside the popular chicken and apple sausage served at last year’s Sunday brunch. A red curry chicken and pineapple potpie is also under consideration. Elk from Shooting Star Ranch near New Sarepta and bison from Kickin’ Ash Buffalo in St. Albert will be served with fresh produce such as saskatoons from Riverbend Gardens. He’ll look to British Columbia for wild smoked salmon to star in his version of niçoise salad and wild mushrooms
lorena d. johnson Long-time volunteer Tom Picard agrees logistics are a constant challenge. One year, 1,700 pieces of fresh chicken thighs were nearly ruined by a broken-down refrigerator. The problem was discovered, the poultry rescued, and the chicken with parmesan and tarragon went ahead. “Now that,” he said, “was a memorable meal.” Edmonton-born writer Lorena D. Johnson admits she knows more about forks than folk, but she's eager to listen.
Red Snapper Chipotle Tacos with Warm Lime Coriander Red Slaw 3,000 large hard tacos 650 lb red snapper fillet 200 lb red cabbage, shredded and braised 125 lb onion 18 c
olive oil
4l
lime juice
4c
chipotle seasoning
12 c
ground coriander
6 lb
crushed garlic
4c
oregano
16 c
fresh cilantro, chopped
20 lb carrots, julienned
home and donate their homegrown tomatoes to help out, recalled Maurice. to complement the bison sausage. Any raw ingredients that can’t be returned to suppliers are donated to organizations such as the Mustard Seed. “I’m trying to go local but it’s hard to go fully local when you’re the biggest mobile kitchen in the country. We’re limited in time and space. ”Timesavers such as peeled and diced onions are purchased from larger food suppliers to help lessen the workload. It’s a far cry from the days when volunteers would make zucchini loaves at
Today, the kitchen (a giant tent erected over a 7,000 square foot wooden floor) is rockin’ long before the bands fire up. A 40-gallon steam kettle, three floor gas burners, four large convection ovens (holding 32 baking sheets), and a steamer oven help get meals to the table twice a day. Levesque stays on track by preparing sauces, condiments, and other items in advance. Still, a commercial freezer, fridge, and dry goods storage are replenished daily. “It’s not your average cooking experience,” said Elisa Zenari, assistant kitchen manager.
3c
sea salt
2c
black pepper
Serves 3000.
Caribbean Salad 300 lb green leaf lettuce 200 lb romaine lettuce 40 lb green onion, chopped 120 lb pears 40 lb frozen mangoes 22 l
35 per cent cream
16 l
sour cream
½c
cumin
1 case sliced almonds, lightly roasted Salt and pepper to taste
OK, sO yOu’re nOt a festival vOlunteer. And your musical talent won’t quite bump Ian Tyson from the stage. Nevertheless, festival-goers can satisfy food cravings at more than two dozen concessions. The quintessential hot dogs, mini-donuts, and ice cream will be available, along with a beer garden. But choices also abound for the more adventurous. “We have booths featuring Korean, Thai, Ukrainian, Mongolian, Japanese, and Jamaican foods,” said Tanya Corbin, access manager. Folk fest planners also look out for the environment. Leftover food along with special utensils are collected in bins throughout the site and turned into compost. A plate exchange program allows patrons to purchase a $2 reusable plate with their food and receive a refund upon return.
edmonton folk Music festival august 5-8 www.efmf.ab.ca
Serves 1000.
The Tomato | July August 2010 27
indulgence Continued from page 15
Chili In an 8-quart stock pot slowly render bacon. When it’s crispy, add all vegetables (except jalapeno) garlic, parsley, and oregano. On low heat, sweat ingredients until soft. Add paprika, chili powder, salt, and pepper. Stir and cook for 5 minutes. Add crushed tomato, all beans, and sugar. Stir to combine, add ½ bottle cider, reserve the rest. With the point of a knife, slice each jalapeno down one side to the center, add whole jalapenos to chili, stir. Uncovered on low heat, bring chili to a simmer, add pulled pork. Simmer on low heat for 4 hours, stirring frequently from the bottom. (Note: “This is a minimum. My Indulgence chili cooked for 12 hours,” Neil Chamberlain). Cook until desired thickness is reached. If too thick, use reserved cider to thin out chili during cooking. Correct seasoning if necessary. Serves 6 with leftovers. *Recipe for the accompanying Blueberry Buttermilk Pancake and Smoked Chedder Shallot Cream on our website thetomato.ca
The Business Lunch at hardware grill.
Moriatry's Bistro & Wine Bar Chef Jason Read 10154 100 Street, 780-757-2004, edmontonpubs.com
Greens Eggs & Ham Mary Ellen and Andreas Grueneberg Leduc, Downtown Farmers’ Market
Averill Creek Vineyard Andy and Wendy Johnston Cowichan Valley, averillcreek.ca
Seussian Flatbread: Chorizo and Duck Egg Quiche with Heritage Greens Pesto, Green Crème Fraiche and a Dam Chip.* Averill Creek 2007 Prevost Quiche 6
duck egg yolks or 12 chicken egg yolks
1T
paprika
½t
kosher salt and black pepper
3c
heavy cream
2
chorizo sausages, cooked and crumbled
1c
gruyere or Gouda cheese
Preheat oven to 350ºF
Use your head, treat your clients. Monday to Friday 11:30 – 2:00 pm Dinner, Monday to Saturday from 5:00 pm.
Separate the egg yolks from the whites and place yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Add the paprika, salt, and pepper. Whisk gently until the spice is evenly distributed. Add the cream and mix until the egg and cream are one. Grease a square cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper. Pour the custard (egg and cream mixture) into the pan. Sprinkle with the crumbled sausage and cheese. Place this in your oven at 375ºF for 30 minutes (it will jiggle like jello when done). Let cool, then chill in the refrigerator. Makes 8-10 lunch-sized servings or approx 30 appetizer-sized portions.
Downtown in the historic Goodridge Block Corner of 97th and Jasper Reservations suggested 780.423.0969 | hardwaregrill.com
28 July August 2010 | The Tomato
* Find the full recipe with puff pastry instructions, pesto, green crème fraiche, dam chip and assembly on our website: the tomato.ca
drinks, from page 22 by horses (depending on how busy the Osuna farm is) to extract the sugary juice from the tough fibers of the fruit. This sugary juice is collected and this is what is fermented, distilled, distilled again, aged, and used to make tequila. At this point, Torres takes a moment to educate me on the difference between mezcal and tequila. “Hundreds of years ago, people first used a relative of the blue agave—a plant called the maguey—to make an alcohol called mezcal. But, then, they discovered that the blue agave produced more sugars and a better tasting drink. Mezcal has a stronger, harsher taste. So, people stopped making so much mezcal and started making tequila instead.” “Mezcal is the one where they started to put the moth larvae called the gusano, in the bottle. They don’t put a worm in real blue agave tequila because that means the plant is infested, it means the plant is sick,” Torres goes on to say. That said, just because it’s made from blue agave, doesn’t mean it can be called tequila either. Tequila is an indigenous Nahuatl word meaning place of tribute and it refers to the town of Tequila, Jalisco, where the practice of making alcohol out of blue agave instead of maguey is said to have originated. Tequila, due to government and industry intervention, is now a protected name and only speciallylicensed distilleries in and around the municipality of Tequila, Jalisco are allowed to use the term—much like wines coming from France’s Champagne or Burgundy regions. For this reason, Los Osuna’s product, which is made in the nearby state of Sinaloa and not Jalisco, can only be labeled as “Blue Agave Distillate” and not “Tequila,” even though they use all of the
same processes as a traditional distillery. It’s unfortunate that tequila distilleries in places like Sinaloa or other regions of Mexico can’t legally call their product tequila, Torres concedes, but it was necessary to protect the name. “China started making a product a number of years back that they called tequila. They used blue agave sugar, but they also added cheaper or artificial sugars and chemicals to make a less expensive product. All those added chemicals change the flavour and they give you a big headache if you drink them too,” Torres laughs. “Lately, some distilleries in other parts of Mexico, outside of Tequila, Jalisco, have been able to buy a license to be able to call their beverage tequila,” he adds. “But it is very expensive to buy the license and they put a lot of restrictions on how exactly you can make your drink.
Professional Wine Education for all Levels Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET)
Now offering wine courses in Edmonton. Courses satisfy the needs of the novice through to the professional sommelier. (WSET) Wine and Spirit Education Trust is widely referred to as the “Gold Standard” in global wine education. Register now!
1.800.667.7288 www.winecollege.ca
“Even with our blue agave distillate, there are restrictions: after we distill our drink for a second time, we have a beverage that is 120 proof. We’re not legally allowed to sell a drink that is 120 proof, though, so we have to dilute it a bit.” “I’ve tried the 120 proof. It’s very good! But… we can’t sell it,” Torres laughs. With that, we head over to the bar to sample a glass of the farm’s final product. Sipping it slowly, I take the time to enjoy the taste of oak that accompanies the rich flavour of the agave. A pleasantly warm burn tickles my throat. I take another sip and I let the tequila sit on my tongue.
ONLY DOWNTOWN.
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D R E A M W I T H T H E B E S T I N S H O P P I N G , D I N I N G , A R T S A N D E N T E R TA I N M E N T A L L AT Y O U R M A N I C U R E D F I N G E R T I P S . P L A N Y O U R E X P E R I E N C E AT WWW.EDMONTONDOWNTOWN.COM
“Oh, that’s good,” I smile, finishing off the glass, “Give me one more.” Bryan Saunders learned that blanco tequilas are for sharing with friends, reposado tequilas are for sharing with family, and añejo tequilas are to be shared with nobody.
Only Downtown.
www.edmontondowntown.com
The Tomato | July August 2010 29
according to judy
| judy schultz
Flying high, with lamb This column usually reflects on food, either here in Alberta or in New Zealand, where I live and work part of the year. But today’s food was neither here nor there, but somewhere over the Pacific Ocean, en route to Canada. It was a Murphy’s Law kind of day. At the airport, my request for a business upgrade had them falling off their chairs laughing. Then they used the S-word: standby. Halfway to the gate I looked at my boarding pass. It wasn’t standby. It was a confirmed seat for somebody named MukradgheeSchultz, heading for Heathrow. Back to the desk. More merriment over poor Mrs. Mukradghee-Schultz, who may not have noticed that she’s off to someplace called Edmonton. Lucky me, I get the last seat (literally) in the last cabin, the one smushed into the corner. Between me and the aisle are two large men, including one sweaty rugby player. Short pants, hairy legs, the works. We’re barely in the air when they’re demanding beer. I check my watch. Just 12 more hours. Never mind, here comes dinner. But lo, my tasty vegetarian option hasn’t made the flight. Maybe it’s off to Heathrow with Mrs. Mukradghee-Schultz. Instead, I get lamb casserole (they’ve run out of chicken). The lamb smells oddly muttony. Attempting to channel my negative feelings, I decide to watch the reliably annoying Gordon Ramsay on TV. Among all the yawninducing drivel that currently afflicts food television, pottymouthed Ramsay is different. He’s guaranteed to make me spittin’ mad. At this precise moment, being mad at Ramsay is positively therapeutic. It takes the pressure off the nasty lamb casserole and Hairy Rugby Guy. Suddenly the aircraft begins to buck like a steer. The captain comes on the blower to state the obvious: “We’ve hit unexpected turbulence.”
30 July August 2010 | The Tomato
Meal service crashes to a halt as the aircraft gives a mighty heave. One of the food trolleys breaks loose and tips over in the back galley. Drinks sloshing, food flying, babies crying, call bells dinging, flight attendants scurrying to pick up fallen trays and manage the damage. Lamb casserole everywhere. It’s the captain again. Just another 15 minutes, says the jolly voice. Fifteen minutes, and we’ll be across the equator and out of this. Oh goody, the equator. Nothing down there but hot water and sharks. Me? I’m a lousy swimmer. Wine. I need wine. I flag down the flustered flight attendant who is carrying a bottle in each hand. JS: If you’re pouring, I’d like a drink please. FA: You don’t have a glass. JS: Right. You took it away. FA: Where’s your glass? JS: You’ve taken my glass. FA: But you need a glass! JS: Forget the glass! Just leave the bottle. Plane shuddering and bouncing. Think rodeo, Brahma bulls, bucking broncs. Captain on the blower again, no longer jolly-voiced, ordering flight attendants to be seated “immediately.” Meanwhile, on my TV screen, Ramsay is swearing like a parrot. He’s somewhere in the povertystricken slums of Mumbai, whining about heat and traffic as some hapless cook with minimal ingredients and one gas ring prepares to feed a few hundred hungry people. The plane lurches. Sucking gratefully on what’s left of my Sauvignon Blanc, I reflect that things could be worse. In my next life, I could come back as Gordon Ramsay’s assistant. Judy Schultz is a food and travel writer based in Edmonton and Auckland. She’ll take serious swimming lessons before her next trans-Pacific flight.
Farmers and ranchers, wine producers, chefs, restaurants, organizing committee, Delta Edmonton South and guests of Indulgence Ten, together we raised $25,000 for Junior League of Edmonton’s children’s food programs.
Thank You!
Restaurants
Lit Wine Bar
Newget Kompany
Ex Nihilo (Lake Country)
4th & Vine
Newget Kompany Tzin Wine and Tapas
Spring Creek Ranch Premium Beef
Gehringer Brothers
Blue Chair 4404 (Delta Edmonton South) Café de Ville Culina Highlands & Mill Creek
Farmers Ranchers and Producers Belle Valley Farm Alpaca
Creations (Sawridge Hotel)
Carmen Creek Bison
d’lish Urban Kitchen
Four Whistle Farms Lamb
Jack’s Grill
Full Course Strategies
L2 (Fantasyland Hotel)
Greens Eggs and Ham
Leva Café
Haven Farm Osol Meatos
Lux steakhouse+bar
Highwood Crossing Organic Farm
Madison’s Grill (Union Bank Inn) Manor Café
Hog Wild Boar
Moriarty’s Wine Bar
Inspired Market Gardens Edible Flowers
NAIT
Irving’s Farm Fresh Pork
Red Ox Inn
Lola Canola Honey
Shaw Conference Centre
Mo-Na Foods Mushrooms
Skinny Legs & Cow Girls
Morinville Greenhouses West County Herbs
Italian Centre Shops featuring Red Fife Wheat
Nature’s Green Acres Nouveau Beef
Sunworks Farm Sylvan Star Cheese Waskwei Creek Farms AllNatural Venison
VQA and Estate Wineries and Artisan Breweries Alley Kat Brewing Company (Edmonton) Averill Creek Vineyard (Cowichan Valley) Black Hills Estate Winery (South Okanagan) Blasted Church Estate Winery (Okanagan Falls)
Gray Monk Estate Winery (Okanagan Valley) Henry of Pelham Family Estate (Niagara) Joie Farm (Naramata) Mission Hill Family Estate (Okanagan Valley) Mt. Boucherie (Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys) Quails Gate Estate Winery (Okanagan Valley) Sandhill Winery (Okanagan Valley) Tinhorn Creek Vineyards (South Okanagan)
Cave Spring (Niagara)
Fruit Wineries
Cedar Creek Estate Winery (Okanagan Valley)
En Santé Organic Winery and Meadery
Church and State (British Columbia)
Meadow Vista Honey Wines
Desert Hills (South Okanagan) Domaine Pinnacle Ice Cider (Quebec)
Indulge in an evening of fine VQA wines and prairie cuisine.