Shifting Patterns by Alessandra

Shifting patterns Pacific barkcloth clothing

The following book is a compilation of interpretations and thoughts about an exhibition titled ‘Shifting Patterns – Pacific Bark Clothing’ held at the British Museum in London. The exhibition discovers a selection of textiles from the Pacific made from barkcloth. This book is a part of the ‘Exhibition’ project for the Graduate Diploma in Creative Practice c o n d u c t e d a t K i n g s t o n U n i v e r s i t y. T h i s i s a product of a group effort by Alessandra, Emma, Eni and Rucha and guided by Prof. Dick Whitbread.

1. Barkcloth

Clothing

What 3-4 How 5 When 5 Why 6-7 Where 8

2. Exhibition

About 9 Map 10 Sequence 11-12 Photographs 13-26

3. Critical

Good Things 27-30 Bad Things 31-34 Suggestions 35-48

Thoughts

Pacific barkcloth clothing

1. Barkcloth

Clothing

WHAT Barkcloth is a primitive fabric made from the fibers of a tree bark used to wrap, d r a p e a n d a d o r n t h e b o d y, it became a distinctive art tradition for the region and its design reflect the histories of each island group and the creativity of the makers. Although worn as everyday clothing, elaborate barkcloth ensembles were and continue to be made for important events such as weddings, initiation ceremonies and to communicate with the spirit world.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

how

The inner bark is beaten with wooden beaters. Once the fabric is thin and soft, it can be used to make clothing. Barkcoth is generally made and decorated by women, but the garments intended for ritual purposes may be made by men.

WHen The specific date barkcloth began to be p r o d u c e d i s u n k n o w n , b u t i t â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on the region for at least 5,000 years and still being produced u n t i l t h e p r e s e n t d a y. I n s o m e l o c a t i o n s , s u c h a s To n g a , b a r k c l o t h making never stopped and in other locations, such as Hawaii, the practice has been revived and Hawaiian kapa is now worn for hula performances.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

WHy Keep producing and using barkcloth is extremely important to the natives. They consider it a responsibility move on to other generations so the art and the tradition donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disappear over the years.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

“Like most of the modern kapa (Hawaiian barkcloth) makers, I consider what I do to be part of my kuleana, or responsibility as a native Hawaiian artist and practitioner… Teaching kapa utilizes education as a means to keep kapa alive so that it is not a lost art again.”

D a l a n i Ta n a h y, k a p a a r t i s t , 2 0 1 4 .

Pacific barkcloth clothing

WHere

Pacific barkcloth clothing

2. Exhibition

about

The exhibition takes place in the British Museum from 5 February â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6 December 2015. It covers 77 objects from the late 1700s to 2014. It was displayed in a chronological order and also taking into consideration the different tribes that practiced this art of cloth making, arranging the objects based on themes.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

map

Pacific barkcloth clothing

1. INTRODUCTORY BRIEF

2. WORL

Painted on wall, similar to one on the website;

Explainin range of

out

10. OTHER ACCESSORIES Body adornments, head dresses, belts, ornaments, etc.

9. MASKS Spirit masks, body masks, real size, with other textures like real hair and hay with bark cloth;

SEQUE ORD OF EXHIB

8. MODERN ADAPTATIONS

7. DISPLAY

Skirt by Hawaiian practitioner in 2014, wedding gown from New Zealand;

Country wise ranging from 1 (77 garments);

Pacific barkcloth clothing

LD MAP g the location bark cloth origins;

3. SAMPLE Since all the items are behind a glass, there is one sample to touch;

4. PROCESS

ENCIAL DER THE BITION

The making of bark cloth and the tools used. (wooden beaters, wooden boards, grooving tools, stamps;

5. DECORATION TECHNIQUES Cutting, texturing, stencils, freehand, dyeing, glazing, attachments, rubbing and overpainting;

6. segregation 700 to 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS

By prominent photographs of people making bark cloth and people using it;

Pacific barkcloth clothing

INTRODUCTION -

Islands of the Pacific; A r t Tr a d i t i o n ; Patterns reflect diverse Histories of individual island groups; Made mostly by women; High social importance.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

photographs RENEWING CONNECTIONS Oro Province, Papua New Guinea

Repeating lines and curling ends which signify eyes; Tiny spots mimicking caterpillar; Six panels repeated horizontally; Collected by Wilfred Henry; Worn for marriage, death and church festivals; U s e d a s w o m a n â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s s k i r t a n d m a n â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s l o i n c l o t h .

Pacific barkcloth clothing

SKINS OF THE SPIRITS Marks in Papua New Guinea

Made Used Made Worn Used

by men; to mediate with spirit being; in secret; by male initiates; for dances.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

D I V E R S E H E R I TA G E Solomon Islands

- Wrapped round a frame work to create tall cylinder; - Only men could paint it; - Used to convey local knowledge.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

PA I N T E D H I S T O R I E S Vannatu

They make plaited textile from pandanus leaf; Used a s a trade item; Marriages; Chiefly rituals; Painted with tumeric; Fringed feathers and red cloth; Worn by high ranking women; Bird, lizard, sea urchins.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

W R A P P E D I N W E A LT H Fiji

Bold black and white designs for warriors; To e n h a n c e v i s u a l i m p a c t ; Done with stencils; Red for chiefly garments.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

C E L E B R AT E D S TAT E S Manus, Papua New Guinea

- Popular with brides; - W o r n i n p a i r.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

C H I E F LY G I F T S Fiji

- Used as gifts for chiefs; - Show status.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

DIVINE ADORNMENT East Polynesia

- M a d e f r o m h u m a n h a i r. p l a i n b a r k c l o t h a n d o t h e r objects; - For ceremonial purposes; - Associated with power; - Images of gods were wrapped with it.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

EMBLEMS OF PRIDE To n g a

- D e c o r a t e d w i t h i m a g e s o f t o n g a m o n a r c h y, e v e n t s and technologies; - Had prints of the Quens airplane; - Q u e e n S l a t e â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s n a m e w a s h a n d p r i n t e d ; - Patterns of diamonds;

Pacific barkcloth clothing

SOURCES OF STYLE Samoa & Futuna

Intricate patterns; Inspiration fron travelling; Ruled lines; External influence from kiribati; The fringe accentuate movement; P a i n t e d f r e e h a n d w i t h r e d c l a y.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

REFASHIONING THE BODY P o l y n e s i a n Tu n i c s

- After Christianity Barkcloth tunic became a mark of conversion; - An attire for church; - Divided into 2 halves; - Mid 1800s; - Layered tunics; - Impressed leafs; - 3 layers of soft cloth.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

DISTIGUISHING COLOURS Cook Islands & Hau

Features 3 mysterious creatures; Headdress; Wo m a n â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s s k i r t ; Loincloth.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

MARKS OF A WARRIOR

A S T R O N G B E AT

Pacific barkcloth clothing

3. Critical

Thoughts

item referencing

no. title; general description; information of source; year , location; item reference code.

country - wise maps with the highlighted country of origin; title, location; object descriptions and referencing; photographs of the region. sample Availability of a sample that could be touched and felt.

photographs and drawings The exhibition was able to communicate how the objects were worn with photographs and drawings.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

good things the quotes The curator was able to communicate words from women from the Study Areas which showed how much research had been considered.

V ery well preserved items The items are vulnerable to light a n d t h e a i r. h e n c e b o t h w e r e taken care of to preserve the items.

having a N e x hibition about it The fact that the exhibition was about the fading culture of bark clothes, spread the awareness of it.

yellow dim light To e n h a n c e c o l o u r p a l l a t t e o f the displayed objects and to protect them as well.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

item referencing

S ample

Pacific barkcloth clothing

photographs and drawings

T he Q uotes

Pacific barkcloth clothing

lighting The dim lighting made it difficult to view objects clearly and the light was unevenly spread all over the place leaving a few dark spots.

reflective glass The glass reflected the focus lights and hence the photo quality got affected.

j oint of the glasses The glass joints were not alligned to the displays behind the glass making it difficult to get a complete glance of the object without any obstruction. sample in a bad position The sample was placed in the corner of the exhibition and difficult to spot and people just walked passed without noticing.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

bad things OVERLAPPING OBJECTS There was not enough space to exhibit all objects individually and this caused obstruction of sights.

contemporary barkcloth Not many examples of contemporary fashion and not many recent examples.

poor visual connectivity There was no visual connectivity from one part of the exhibit to another hence there was no relativity amongst the displayed objects. no concept This particular exhibition didnt stand out on its own with the british museum in the background and lost its identity in the camouflaging effect.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

REFLECTIVE GLASS

LIGHTING

Pacific barkcloth clothing

OVERLAPPING OBJECTS

poor visual connectivity

Pacific barkcloth clothing

sUGGESTIONS Contemporary Barkcloth When it comes to comtemporary application of bark cloth, which was informed in the exhibition, references were not found much. It could have contributed to a u d i e n c e ’s g r a s p o f p r a c t i c a l r e f e r e n c e s . It lead myself to search the actual references of bark cloth applied in contemporary fashion to understand how bark cloth has influenced on it.

” B u t t i c k e t s f o r K a m p a l a ’s f i r s t e v e r F a s h i o n W e e k e a r l i e r t h i s m o n t h s o l d o u t s w i f t l y, w i t h models strutting the cat-walk showing everything from sequined hot pants to accessories made from c o w h o r n , t o a d r e s s m a d e f r o m t h e c o u n t r y ’s unique bark cloth.”

Pacific barkcloth clothing

Jose Hendo Showcases Barkcloth designs in Canada

Ugandan Barkcloth in fashion and design

A curator aim is to create an interaction between the artwork and its audience thereby c a u s i n g a r e a c t i o n t h a t m a y, e v e n t u a l l y, r e m a i n i n t h e a u d i e n c e â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s m e m o r y. I t w a s n â&#x20AC;&#x2122; t e x p e c t e d t h a t t h e most recent works were exhibited, but at least some contemporary work should have been referred to explain how barkcloth has evolved.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

Contemporary barkcloth by fashion designer Bobby Kolade

Pacific barkcloth clothing

Colour Pallete Study

Pacific barkcloth clothing

mULTISENSORY experiences This exhibition is certainly targeted to a specific a u d i e n c e , s i n c e i t i s a v e r y s p e c i f i c s u b j e c t . H o w e v e r, it is open to all types of audience, so it would be expected a little more engagement for a better understanding of all the subjects and the exhibition itself. For this, it could be used multisensory techniques, approaching those topics. Per example, it could be used some tv screens with videos of people talking about the barkcloth tradition, or videos of people actually making it. Other kind of interaction would be making available a batter for the public to interact, for the better understanding of how the barkcloth is made. Sounds and screens could be used to show how the barkcloth i s u s e d t o d a y.

One of the most famous multisensor y exhibitions: “Van Gogh Alive – The Experience” involves light, colour and sound, combined and amplified.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

pATTERN Study In terms of patterns on barkcloth, geometric patterns which reflect a lot of stories of them are found, and there are also painting on the cloth. These present a method of communication with audience, which helps t h e m t o s e e n o t o n l y barkcloth itself but also its hidden meaning. H o w e v e r, introduction of the patterns and painting on the cloths presented was not enough to fully explain the intention of m a k e r s a n d d e s i g n e r s . To be specific, the introduction illustrates overall ideas of

pattern that how they were created with tools and materials, but it does not e x p l a i n w h y c e r t a i n c o l o u r, patterns and painting were applied on cloths and where these were derived from.

Pacific barkcloth clothing

Omie The omie creation story of this ancient painting practice tells of how Mina, the first man, intructed Suja, the first woman, to beat and dye the first barkcloth(nioge). In an unbroken lineage, traditional techniques which are enturies old are sitll used today- as the bark cloths are painted with sticks and brushes fashioned from ain frorest plants, to paint the traditional motifs. ‘The works are visual expressions of ancestral Omie Knowledge which adorn these pieces.’ e x p l a i n s B r e n n a n K i n g , w h o ’s b e e n a c t i n g a s t h e International Representaive of the Omie artists since 2009. The nioge artworks are filled with colourful zigzag lines; chequered patterns and oval forms are not simply patterns and designs but reference spiritual a n d s y m b o l i c m e a n i n g s f r o m t h e i r l o c a l i t y, h i s t o r y a n d c o s m o l o g y. Many designs come from the ujawe - an Omie initiation rite that involves tattoing clan insignia onto skin contact with missionaries in the mid-20th century contributed to the loss of the tattooing tradition and resulted in the transference of some of t h e s e d e s i g n s f r o m s k i n o n t o b a r k c l o t h . ‘ N o w, w h e n worn as clothing, the barkcloth forms a sort of double skin, an artistic armour for the retention of traditional Omie knowledge and culture. Research reference Anonymous,The Business Times Singapole, 2011, Ancient barkcloth comes alive: Exquisite aboriginal art of P a p u a N e w G u i n e a ’s O m i e p e o p l e i s a w o r k o f h e a r t , w r i t e s M A D H V I S U B R A H M A N I A N [ O n l i n e ] , 1 1 F e b r u a r y, Available f r o m - h t t p : / / s e a r c h . p r o q u e s t . c o m . e z p r o x y. k i n g s t o n . a c . u k / docview/852595049?accountid=14 5 5 7 & r f r _ i d = i n f o % 3 A x r i % 2 F s i d % 3 A p r i m o [ A c c e s s e d : 1 0 N o v e m b e r, 2 0 1 5 ]

Pacific barkcloth clothing

Image references 1 . M o r r o w, D , 2 0 1 1 , H u l a d a n c e r s f r o m t h e H a l a u N a K i p u u p u u g r o u p [ O n l i n e ] , Av a i l a b l e f r o m - h t t p : / / w w w. b r i t i s h m u s e u m . o r g / whats_on/exhibitions/shifting_patterns.aspx [ A c c e s s e d : 1 8 N o v e m b e r, 2 0 1 5 ] 2 . H a m , 2 0 1 3 , F a ç a d e o f t h e B r i t i s h M u s e u m [ O n l i n e ] , 4 M a y, Available from- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Museum [ A c c e s s e d : 1 8 N o v e m b e r, 2 0 1 5 ] 3. Fallon, A, 2014, Ugandan designers seek cut of Africa f a s h i o n m a r k e t [ O n l i n e ] , 2 6 N o v e m b e r, A v a i l a b l e f r o m - h t t p : / / news.yahoo.com/ugandan-designers-seek-cut-africa-fashionmarket-073957987.html [ A c c e s s e d : 1 0 N o v e m b e r, 2 0 1 5 ] 4. Okon, A, 2012, London Fashion Week: Ubuntu International P r o j e c t A u t u m n / W i n t e r 2 0 1 2 C o l l e c t i o n s [ O n l i n e ] , 1 9 F e b r u a r y, Av a i l a b l e f r o m - h t t p : / / w w w. h a u t e f a s h i o n a f r i c a . c o m / 2 0 1 2 / 0 2 / 1 9 / london-fashion-week-ubuntu-international-projecta u t u m n w i n t e r- 2 0 1 2 - c o l l e c t i o n s / [ A c c e s s e d : 1 0 N o v e m b e r, 2 0 1 5 ] 5. Independent Global Citizen, 2014, Ugandan Barkcloth in Fashion and Design.[Online], 6 April, Available fromhttp:// independentglobalcitizen.com/2015/04/06/ugandan-barkclothin-fashion-and-design/ [ A c c e s s e d : 1 2 N o v e m b e r, 2 0 1 5 ] 6. Roché, D, 2015, Bobby Kolade Lookbook [Online], Available fromhttp://bobbykolade.com/lookbook [ A c c e s s e d : 1 8 N o v e m b e r, 2 0 1 5 ] 7. Roché, D, 2015, Bobby Kolade Lookbook [Online], Available fromhttp://bobbykolade.com/lookbook [ A c c e s s e d : 1 8 N o v e m b e r, 2 0 1 5 ] 8. 2015, Van Gogh Alive Exhibition [Online], Available fromhttp://grandeexhibitions.com/traveling-exhibitions/van-goghalive/ [ A c c e s s e d : 1 8 N o v e m b e r, 2 0 1 5 ]

Pacific barkcloth clothing

Kingston University - 2015