Preview of the fashion magazine SCKUM

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INTRODUCTION [37] The most violent part of Hardcore punk [07] Outcasts are the right side of Trash C. CREATE RULES AND CODES [43] Misfits [08] The rules of the game

[62] Freaks 00

[10] We need codes [68] The failure of an utopia A. DESTROY [74] REFERENCES 4

[13] Destroy Adolf Hitler and Create through Adolf Hitler [16] Bodies of water

INDEX

[20] My favourite brands are Hiv and my “plastic” pussy B. FIGHT [27] I’m treated like a fuckin’ disease [34] Scars are your logo, show them off [36] Pray with us


“Mis-Shapes”, Pulp

Misshapes, mistakes, misfits

We want your homes, we want your lives

And brothers, sisters, can’t you see?

We want the things you won’t allow us

The future’s owned by you and me

We won’t use guns, we won’t use bombs

There won’t be fighting in the street

We’ll use the one thing we’ve got more of, that’s our

They think they’ve got us beat, but revenge is going

minds

to be so sweet. We’re making a move, we’re making it now

Raised on a diet of broken biscuits, oh Check your lucky numbers

We’re coming out of the sidelines

And we don’t do the things you do

That much money could drag you under, oh

Just put your hands up, it’s a raid, yeah

But we live around here too, oh really

What’s the point in being rich

We want your homes, we want your lives

If you can’t think what to do with it?

We want the things you won’t allow us

Misshapes, mistakes, misfits

‘Cause you’re so bleeding thick

We won’t use guns, we won’t use bombs

We’d like to go to town but we can’t risk it, oh

Oh, we weren’t supposed to be

We’ll use the one thing we’ve got more of, that’s our

‘Cause they just want to keep us out

We learnt too much at school now we can’t help but

minds, yeah

You could end up with a smack in the mouth

see

And that’s our minds. Yeah

Just for standing out, now, really

That the future that you’ve got mapped out is nothing much to shout about, oh-oh-oh

Brothers, sisters, can’t you see? The future’s owned by you and me

We’re making a move, we’re making it now

There won’t be fighting in the street

We’re coming out of the side-lines

They think they’ve got us beat, but revenge is going

Just put your hands up, it’s a raid yeah

to be so sweet, oh-oh-oh

We want your homes, we want your lives We want the things you won’t allow us

We’re making a move, we’re making it now

We won’t use guns, we won’t use bombs

We’re coming out of the side-lines

We’ll use the one thing we’ve got more of, that’s our

Just put your hands up, it’s a raid yeah

minds

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We don’t look the same as you


INTRODUCTION

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O u t c a s t s a r e t h e r i g h t s i d e o f Tr a s h

think as Tommaso Labranca

The writer Tommaso Labranca has defined the concept of Trash as a failed emulation of a high model. In almost all the cases the ones who try to imitate a “high” personality become a wannabe and the final result they get is failure. These people are going to be at a persistent “low starting point” because most of the times they try to imitate someone that cannot be equaled, and consequently they are destined to remain stuck at their original low position.

f ight as Divine

One of Labranca’s essay was published during 1994; it is called “Andy Warhol era un coatto”; the writer was able to understand and explain what is happening in today’s society. The nowadays reassert a bigoted society which is the perfect explanation of what Trash was for the writer. People are trying to imitate moral norms of the past (something similar to 18th century’s), but there is a visible mistake. These people are not honest, they are missing the authenticity of mediocrity that characterised people of past centuries, when they were of course bigots, but in a servile and coherent way. This new system in which the exasperation of bigotry is visible, is the most catastrophic consequence of Labranca’s Trash. We live in a society in which everything is fake, where we are surrounded by a certain way of thinking and actions are made of “plastic”. The failure of imitation can be explained by taking a bygone era as reference for the high model, an era envied by the aspirant imitators because they think it is full of values that today are forgotten. The low starting point is represented by the same imitators that actually pretend to be moralist. In front of other people they explain how much the lack of decorum is shameful, pretending to persuade about their lives devoid of vices, but when the lights go out


and nobody is watching they become the first ones to commit

the choice of wearing specific clothes can be considered Tra-

the same actions that they condemn in public. It is easy to

sh if people do not pay attention to this choice and if other

understand that these people fail the imitation because they

people start to imitate that way of dressing. In this case the

try to be like someone else using a fake approach. They are

failure is the death of the sense of aesthetic.

destined to remain the wannabes of the idiotic but real bi-

In all his movies, the so-called “Pope of trash”, with his muse

gots of the past.

the drag queen Divine, deals with issues considered as bad

This is, as said before, the worst consequence of Labranca’s

taste. He destroys the imposed sense of modesty showing

Trash. It is not only about failing the emulation, but it is about

topics that people are not still ready to face.

trying to imitate something that actually these “new” bigots

This is the body of our magazine. We show the destruction

do not desire to be like. At least Bobby Solo had a real ad-

of idiocy.

miration for Elvis Presley, even though he failed the imitation

Outcasts are and will be always subversive and disturbing as

in the worst way.

is Divine in the eyes of the viewers, in a scene from the movie

Our magazine starts from here. Labranca’s works is a starting point for us. Through his concept of Trash we criticise the same mediocrity. Tommaso Labranca is one of the Thinkers that is a part of our mind, but also our body and actions.They are the reflection of another type of Trash. John Waters and Divine’s Trash. John Waters’ Trash is the practical and visible side of the concept. The filmmaker started a war against the decency showed in his movies, quoting his words, “normal people acting in an insane way”. Actually his way of acting in his movies is not so far from Labranca’s point of view. When Waters talks about Trash he refers to something related to bad taste. For example for him

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“Pink Flamingos”, she is eating dog shit.


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the rules of the game


fact, these are rules; and at one point will be perceived as normality. The same thing happens during the sex games. An Italian sex game called “La monta delle vacche” has deleted all the shared value of sex, such as monogamy, not occasional sex, Destroying rules means creating new rules. As a platform for violent outcasts, this magazine is going to give you all the guidelines you need to destroy the current social system, but the result you will obtain is not about social chaos. Of course a primal chaos is needed to pursue our riot, but at the end, all of us will obtain the creation of a new status quo. Common sense imposes to people that rules are necessary in but the truth is that even the most destructive revolt produces a new system of norms. Taking examples from the world of sex, people have tried every possible way to deconstruct the canonic sexual intercourse, and also in the most unconventional manifestation, it is visible that there is the creation of new rules. Sadomasochism for example, is the exact explanation of a new system of methods; through removing the standard roles that are assimilated by society and creating new ones: the sadist and the masochist. For some people this could be seen as a distortion of what common sense imposes, but at the end what we obtain is the creation of a new order. As a matter of

specific rules, and if some of them are not respected, participants will be eliminated from the game. The passive participants (bottom) are called “cows” and the active ones (top) are “bulls”. The cows cannot refuse any sexual intercourse and during the sexual intercourse, they are blindfolded. Bulls can only have sexual encounters with cows, not with other bulls. Unsafe sex is forbidden. Every cow has an assigned number, and at the end of the sex game, the best cow and the best bull are selected. It is visible that also in games like this, when the human morality is brought up with animal instinct, it will lead to a hypothetical chaos, which is presenting a specific structure of norms. These are the rules of this community in a paper form: destroy norms to create better ones.

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a society and revolt would lead only to a general disruption,

sex with only one partner at the time. Indeed, the game has


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we need codes


sexual intercourse; or more in depth, a specific color represented an interest for a determined sexual practices. Before the creation of social media or gay dating applications this was the only way to recognize people belonging to the same community, but more importantly meeting them in a safe way At the base of a community there has always been a series of implicit and explicit codes that allow people to recognise who is part of the same “family”. These kind of marks start from the mind. People in a community share the same way of thinking, and this is the base of what we want to build through this magazine. All our implicit codes are related to divergent thoughts of outcasts and fight back together by starting our personal and collective riot. The externalization of codes through the body is the concrete representation of the outcasts mind. Codes are related to the aesthetic of a specific group of individuals, but they are also used to compensate for tangible deficiencies. Of course the most tangible problem is the need for belonging to a community, and the use of the same marks is able to meet from an aesthetic side, but more importantly from a human one. Wearing specific codes is also used for more practical objectives. Just think about bandanas for the past gay generations. Putting a bandana in the right or left jeans pocket meant expressing the preference in terms of roles during

in the right pocket of jeans meant that a man was interested in the piss of another man. Today gay people do not need bandanas anymore, but there is still a part of queers who wear them. Not only for aesthetic reasons but to point out who they are, and that this will always be the people they belong to. The queercore band “Limp Wrist”, during their live performances still wears bandanas and other accessories such as jockstraps or leather harnesses to explain their strong membership to this specific community. This is the reason why SCKUM is sold with a package of pins, wearing them can show your pride and find out who has your same mind and body.

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the big common value of sharing. Our aim is to share all the

because only gay people could know that a yellow bandana


MISFITS 43

A Fashion Story by MATTEO CARLOMUSTO captured by ENRICO BERNI


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DARIO CERISANO


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CRISTIANO NALDI


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