FineScale.com
EXCLUSIVE NEW FORM & FIGURE COLUMN January 2016
RARE BIRD WE SHOW YOU HOW TO EXPAND YOUR PAINTING SKILLS
HOW TO Teach a child to model p.30
» How to blend skin tones – p.20
+ TIPS, Q&A, READER GALLERY & MORE!
Darren Roberts’ one-off Norwegian/ Persian Hawk – p.24
Build a stellar F-16F p.48 Weather a “Star Wars” X-wing p.18 Zvezda’s 1/35 scale King Tiger – p.59
OUR EXPERTS BUILD & REVIEW 5 NEW KITS
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56
18
20
20
AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING
“Used future,” layered colors Weathering a “Star Wars” X-wing
WORKBENCH REVIEWS
AARON SKINNER
5 NEW KITS
FORM & FIGURE
Painting faces Blending color for skin tones
Page 56
JOE HUDSON
24
58
Rare bird P-36A Hawk, Norwegian/Persian marks
• MiniArt Caterpillar D7 bulldozer
DARREN ROBERTS 24
30
Paying it forward Father teaches son … patiently JOHN & MAXIMILIAN BROSNAN
40
Weathered whitewash Modeling a Leopard that never was
• Airfix Hawker Hurricane • Zvezda King Tiger
60
• Freedom Model Northrop F-20A Tigershark
FEDERICO COLLADA
• Roden Heinkel He 51 30
FSM FORUM GROUP BUILD
44
Orphaned armor Ex-pat vehicles on parade
48
Resin conversion and diversion Hasegawa’s F-16B to an F via the XL TIM McLAUGHLIN
48
52
Ballast for your base Give Polar Lights’ stands greater gravitas JEFF POLLIZZOTTO
66 52
FINAL DETAILS
Nobody wants disasters, but everybody has them MARK HEMBREE
61
In Every Issue 5 7 10 12 36
Editor’s Page Scale Talk Spotlight New Products Reader Gallery
54 55 63 64 65
Reader Tips Questions & Answers Classified Marketplace Hobby Shop Directory Advertiser Index
On the Cover It’s not every day you see a Curtiss P-36A painted in the colors of Norway and Persia. Darren Roberts shows off a unique chromatic confluence of national insignia and paint schemes.
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EDITOR’S PAGE By Mark Savage
New year, new column — go figure! HAPPY NEW YEAR! I know I’m a tad early, but this being our January issue it seems timely to ring in something new. I won’t bore you with resolutions, just changes FineScale Modeler is making to help you build better models. That’s our mantra here, adding more weapons to your modeling arsenal. So with this issue we introduce a new column, Form & Figure, p. 20, which will focus on painting figures, an increasingly popular genre among modelers. How do you paint skin tones that look real, faces with warmth and depth? Or, for modelers working on dioramas, how do you get the uniforms, the helmets, the gear to look as they should? We’ve recruited master figure modeler Joe Hudson to write
Form & Figure, which will appear in each issue just after the popular Airbrushing & Finishing column. Joe will guide you through properly mixing your paints to create just the right skin tone, fabric shade, belt buckle color, you name it.
HOW DO YOU PAINT SKIN TONES THAT LOOK REAL, FACES WITH WARMTH? Joe has been painting figures for more than 25 years and has sculpted figures for several model companies. He also worked with noted modeler Francois Verlinden. Joe knows his stuff. We certainly realize not every modeler will be building an X-Men kit or painting the bust of some ancient warrior. But that next diorama will look all the better for your
attention to the detail on the figures used in it. We hope you enjoy the stories and learn from Joe each issue. Meanwhile, we’ve loaded up another issue with excellent howtos on aircraft, armor, and more. I’d especially like to call out John Brosnan’s story, p. 30, on how to successfully introduce a youngster to modeling. I encourage you to take time this holiday season to share your skills with a young modeler. Happy holidays!
editor@finescale.com
www.FineScale.com Want to learn more? For the latest news, as well as modeling tips and techniques, visit our website at www.FineScale.com
Your Editorial Staff
Off the Sprue!
Editor Mark Savage msavage @Kalmbach.com
Favorite sports team? Monica: Green Bay Packers all day, all the way! Mark H: Grew up 25 minutes from Lambeau Field, still a Packers fan and longsuffering Milwaukee Brewers fan. Mark S: Hokkaido Nippon-Ham Fighters, a Japanese baseball team. Really it’s just the name I love. Go Ham Fighters!
Senior Editor Aaron Skinner askinner @FineScale.com
Associate Editor Mark Hembree mhembree @FineScale.com
Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash enash @FineScale.com
Editorial Associate Monica Freitag mfreitag @FineScale.com
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Š2015, Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. Title is registered as trademark. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations used in reviews. Postmaster: Periodicals postage paid at Waukesha, Wisconsin, and additional offices. Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: single copy $6.99; U.S.: 1 year (10 issues), $39.95; 2 years (20 issues), $74.95; 3 years (30 issues), $94.95. Canada: Add $8 postage per year. All other international subscriptions: Add $12 postage per year. Payable in U.S. funds, drawn on a U.S. bank. Canadian price includes GST (Canada Publication Mail Agreement #40010760, BN 12271 3209 RT). Expedited Delivery Service: Domestic First Class, add $20/yr.; Canadian air, add $20/yr.; International air, add $45/yr. Letters, new releases, and new-product information are accepted as gratis contributions to FineScale Modeler. Feature articles and scale drawings are paid for on acceptance. All other submissions are paid for upon publication, at which time FineScale Modeler obtains all reproduction rights unless otherwise agreed. Instructions for submitting features, photos, and drawings for publication are available online at www.FineScale. com/contribute. Unsolicited material will be returned only if postage and envelope are provided. FineScale Modeler is not responsible for the safe return of unsolicited material. Printed in U.S.A.
SCALE TALK Your voice in FSM Stuka sensation
Hats off to Dan Jayne’s fantastic 1/32 scale Stuka (as seen in the October 2015 issue). His level of modeling skill is truly a gift. I have seen his work before and each time cannot believe what he has achieved. With companies like Zoukei-Mura’s approach to their kits, it is truly wonderful to have people like Dan who, in my opinion, are in a class of their own. If there isn’t already a published book of his work, it is long overdue. – Bill Simpson Tampa, Fla. Praise for the new FineScale.com
I absolutely love the new website’s format, especially the remodeled Reader Gallery. The magazine’s online version now is less cluttered, easier to navigate, and the Reader Gallery pics are much larger, appear clearer, and are more enjoyable to view. I especially like that you folks made this change retroactive, so readers can revisit prior Gallery postings and examine them in more detail. I even like the way you now identify the readers who post comments to Reader Gallery selections. Somehow, the new format makes them more inherently a part of each of the Gallery postings, and more personable. Great job, ladies and gentlemen! – Robert Pierson Dakota Dunes, S.D. Ed.: Many thanks to our web page designers, Marie Kieckbusch and Serene Mireles, for the new site’s snazzy appearance, and to Craig Kuhlow, Alex Gaudynski, and their online crew for the tech support. Rust, rust, and more rust
In response to Tom Izbrand’s Scale Talk letter in the November 2015 issue, I have been enjoying the “back and forth” nature of the rusty tracks subject. Usually, the Scale Talk section doesn’t grab my attention, as the letters are usually either praise for FSM, or griping about various modeling woes. Not that I have a problem with either, as I indulge in both frequently. (This seems like a good time to say how much I enjoy FSM. It’s great!) It’s just that the letters don’t catch my attention or interest. However, I have found the recent debate over track rust to be interesting and stimulating. It expanded my knowledge on weathering tracks, and I feel more confident with my techniques. Since the start of the track rust argument, Scale Talk has
Pat’s P-61A was made just the way Shep made his.
Homage to Shep Paine Here is my tribute P-61A to the guy who got me started in diorama building. That’s right, the Master himself: Shep Paine. I can remember being a 12-year-old kid and opening the Monogram model boxes not to do the models but to get at the tip sheets that Shep would do. My favorite, of course, was that of the P-61A. I knew some day I’d have to build it — the way Shep did. Shep, rest in peace knowing that everything you gave to us in this great hobby will be passed down to the generations to come! And to the staff at FSM, and all who contribute, you’re doing an awesome job of continuing his legacy. – Pat Thomas Goleta, Calif.
Remembering Shep Paine Just received my November issue of FineScale Modeler and was shocked to hear that Shep Paine passed away at such a young age. I remember getting the 1/48 scale B-17 when I was around 15 years old and seeing Shep Paine’s diorama flyer, which was included. I was mesmerized by his skills and tried using some of his techniques on my model. That was the first time I used an airbrush and remember “fading” the upper surfaces to make it more realistic. Then I bought his book How to Build Dioramas and thought, “This guy is one hell of a modeler!” Growing up in Milwaukee, I used some of his ideas when I built a 1/48 scale Kingfisher landing (or taking off ) on water and won 1st place in my age group at a model contest held in Milwaukee by the U.S. Navy. We, the modeling world, have lost a very important member. – Don Darr Fort Worth, Texas January 2016
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SCALE TALK become one of my favorite monthly pages. Keep up the good work, FSM. And fellow readers, keep on debating! As Kevin Smith said, “‘Controversial’ as we all know, is often a euphemism for ‘interesting and intelligent.’” – Bram Woolley Allentown, Pa. Scale questions for Scale Talk
Three letters in the November 2015 issue really hit home. I have been primarily a model railroader all my life, but I also built plastic models as a teen. I built everything — planes, ships, armor, cars, and trucks. Some model railroaders say, “It’s your railroad (insert model instead) — do what you want” and, “There’s a prototype for everything.” The only person that really needs to be happy with the end result of a build is the one who did the work (rusted tracks). It’s also hard to deny correctness when using photos as a reference. The comments on kits are right on for both. Manufacturers need to stop building the same stuff. The P-51 and Bf 109 are like the UP Big Boy and EMD F7. Everybody makes them and ignores things modelers would like. How about a 1/48 scale Handley Page Halifax, Avro Manchester, or Short Stirling? Also, why are most armor kits 1/35 scale and the larger aircraft 1/32 scale? I model aircraft in 1/48 — I would be more interested in same-scale kits. The 1/48 scale kits from Tamiya go right along with my aircraft. That means a great deal more products to use that are all in the same scale. – Tim Fornstrom Littleton, Colo. Correction
In the coverage of the IPMS/USA National Convention in our December issue, we misspelled Jeremy Backlund’s name in the caption on his beautiful 1/48 scale Special Hobby Fairey Barracuda. Let us know what you think! Comments, suggestions, corrections, and additional views on FSM articles are welcome. E-mail your thoughts to editor@FineScale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contribute to FSM.” You can also mail typed or handwritten letters to the address on Page 6. Clearly mark “To the Editor” on the envelope. Please limit your comments to no more than 300 words and include your name and location.
8 FineScale Modeler January 2016
Now at the NEW FineScale.com Aircraft and tanks and ships! Oh my! If you can’t get enough photos of beautiful models, see a special IPMS/ USA gallery that we’ve put online. Just type 2015 IPMS/USA Nationals into our search function. (That’s the little magnifying glass icon in the navigation bar atop the home page.)
FineScale.com/Reviews Workbench Reviews Subscribers receive early access to upcoming reviews. Hundreds of free reviews Every review published before December 2013 is now free to read.
FineScale.com/How To
FineScale.com/Online Extras
Article archive Search our collection of stories to find answers to your modeling questions.
Download a desktop wallpaper You can download a studio quality wallpaper of the Freedom Model Kits’ 1/48 scale Northrop F-20A Tigershark that Caleb Horn built for Workbench Reviews in the January 2015 FineScale Modeler.
Tips database Subscribers can search our extensive database of reader-supplied tips.
FineScale.com/Videos Video issue previews FSM Editor Mark Savage highlights what’s in the current issue. New Product Rundown Editors Elizabeth Nash and Aaron Skinner pick the hottest kits, open the boxes, and tell you why they rock.
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January 2016
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9
SPOTLIGHT Compiled by Aaron Skinner
Hobby Q & A: Charlie Pritchett, consultant for Takom Models
C
hina-based Takom Models surprised a lot of modelers in 2013 with a 1/16 scale FT-17. Since then, it’s produced interesting and varied tanks and vehicles. In June 2015, the company hired master modeler and FSM author Charlie Pritchett as a consultant. An old hand in the modeling industry, Charlie has worked for Verlinden Productions and designed parts for Cutting Edge and Legend Productions.
Q A
Describe what you do for Takom. Is it product development?
I gather data. When I was scratchbuilding master patterns at Verlinden, I had to do the research before I could do the actual work. So, I’ve gotten really good at research. That’s primarily what I do for Takom. I take hundreds and hundreds of photos and have measurements in the photographs so the design team can reference those. You have to get every possible dimension that you can of every part you possibly can, because the more measurements and details you get, the better the end product. Climbing around vehicles at Fort Benning in June might sound like fun — which it certainly is — but it’s still a lot of exhausting work.
Q
Takom’s made a name producing some terrific World War I armor. Do you think Takom will continue to work in that era?
A
The WWI tanks, that was an obvious choice. They were pretty much
10 FineScale Modeler January 2016
neglected by kit manufacturers until the recent centennial of the war’s start. I think we’re pretty much done with tanks from that conflict, but there are other subjects, including plenty of artillery.
Q
What other blanks do you think need to be filled in the roster of available kits?
A
There is all kinds of modern stuff that could be done. There are new vehicles being developed all the time. A good example is Takom producing the new Russian T-14 Armata. The real tank was just revealed to the public a few months ago. That’s what I see — anything and everything that hasn’t been done before. And there may be some older subjects or previously kitted vehicles that could be done better with modern technology. But there are the obvious subjects that everybody has done to death, which we would like to avoid, and then there are plenty of fringe subjects that are still waiting to be done. I don’t want to name any specifically, because we may be working on them.
Q
What, in your mind, makes an appealing subject? Do you go on instinct or do you have some criteria for judging what you think would be a popular subject?
A
I think originality is the name of the game right now. We’ve had the same subjects repeated by multiple manufacturers, the stereotypical examples being Tiger tanks and Messerschmitt Bf 109s. There’s nothing wrong with that; those are always going to sell because they’re popular. But I think a lot of modelers find it refreshing to have something new and original, which is what Takom wants to produce.
Q A
When did you build your first model? What was it?
I was 9, I guess. I don’t remember which manufacturer it was, but it was a 1/72 scale F4U Corsair. At the time I was really into that television show, “Black Sheep Squadron.” I remember I even painted it. I assembled it with Testors tube glue and painted it with a brush and decaled it all in one sitting, and it had the thumbprints to prove it. I had a blast. My dad built aircraft models when I was a kid, so I picked up an interest in aviation subjects. I didn’t get into armor until I was much older, actually, working for Francois Verlinden. He was doing a lot of armor dioramas and it hooked into me. It hasn’t let go since.
BOOKSHELF
Revell strikes with kits from latest “Star Wars” film
Taking the mystery out of Israeli Mystères
F
A
long time ago — longer ago than I care to think about, at least — in a department store in Gainesville, Fla., the young me discovered MPC’s kits from “Star Wars. ” Just as the movie had a profound impact on my psyche, building those kits turned me into a modeler. Sure, I’d build a few planes and a couple of tanks, but the X-wing and TIE fighter, R2-D2 and C-3P0, connected me to my favorite movie like nothing else. I was hooked. Now, with a new chapter in the “Star Wars” universe in theaters, Revell has released four kits aimed squarely at young fans. Labeled SnapTite Build & Play, these pre-finished models cover ships with shapes familiar to longtime fans. There are two X-wings — a blueand-white Resistance fighter (No. 85-1632) and a black-and-orange ship flown by Poe Dameron (No. 85-1635). These are T-70 fighters, an advanced version of the T-65s from the original trilogy. The First Order Special Forces TIE fighter (No. 85-1634) looks like the original Imperial ships, but with a couple of new parts and a cool black finish. The final kit is an old friend, the Millennium Falcon (No. 85-1633) with a new radar dish. No scale is provided for the models, but the X-wings look to be roughly 1/72, the TIE about 1/48, and the Falcon 1/160 scale. The finish on the parts is first rate with neatly outlined panels and details. Molded in heavy plastic, the kits are definitely sturdy, essential to playability. A further nod to that is
or almost a decade in the 1950s and ’60s, Israel’s combat aircraft were almost entirely of French design, including Vantours, Ouragans, Mirages, and Dassault Mystères. The last is the subject of Shlomo Aloni’s Jezreel Valley Mystères - The Mystère IVA in Israeli Air Force Service, Squadron 109, 1956-1968 (Schiffer, ISBN 978-0-76434825-9, $59.99). The 224-page hardcover details Israel’s acquisition of the interceptor, its deployment with Squadron 109 in the countries north, its reassignment from air combat to ground attack, and combat in the Water War and the Six-Day War. The comprehensive history includes daily mission reports and hundreds of photos.
ID tips for German armor
C the inclusion of sound in all of the models, and lights in the Falcon and TIE fighter. I built one of the X-wings and the Falcon, each in less than 10 minutes. The fit is very good and the instructions easy to follow. These are not meant to be 100% accurate replicas, although with a little work they could be made into nice display pieces. Even if you aren’t a fan of the films or are disappointed by the low part counts, check these kits out. At the very least, pick one up for the fan or kid in your life. Or just get one to fly around the room and party like it’s 1977.
onfused about the differences between a PzKpfw II Ausf C and a PzKpfw II Ausf F? Panzer — The German Tanks Encyclopedia by Laurent Tirone (Caraktère, ISBN 978-2-91640307-6, $60) may be just the medicine for you. The 192-page softcover details all of the major gun tanks used by Germany during World War II. The short descriptions, accompanied by photos and beautiful four-view color illustrations, focus on the differences between the variants. It’s the perfect volume to keep nearby if you have a question about a vehicle you want to build.
Unsung aircraft catalog
B
eyond the airliners and military aircraft, aviation history has produced hundreds of other types, especially light aircraft that have carried out commercial and military roles as well as populated general aviation fields all over the world. Those aircraft are the subjects of Ron Smith’s Classic Light Aircraft — An Illustrated Look, 1920s to the Present (Schiffer, ISBN 978-0-7643-4896-9, $34.99). The 415-page hardcover is not a catalog with detailed information on each aircraft. Rather, it is a survey of 800 with short narrative descriptions and color photos. Companies like Cessna, Beechcraft, and Piper dominate, but other, lesser-known types are also covered. It’s a lot of fun to flip through the pages and read about an unfamiliar plane. January 2016
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11
NEW PRODUCTS Compiled by Monica Freitag 1/35 SCALE KITS
AIRCR AFT
Hurricane of 249 Sqn flown by Flt Lt E.J.B.Nicholson VC — the only VC in the Battle of Britain; Typhoon FGR.4 ZK353 /BQ 29(F) Sqn 100th Anniversary, Flt Lt Jonny Dowen (with crimson fin), RAF Coningsby.
1/24 SCALE KITS
F-16C Block50 Wild Weasel Viper — 50 Years of YGBSM from Twobobs, No. 48-247, Airspeed A.S.51 Horsa Mk.1 glider from
$14. Markings for single F-16, 92-0920, June 5, 2015.
Bronco Models, No. CB35195, $179.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
1/72 SCALE KITS
1/48 SCALE KITS
Fokker Dr.I from Merit International,
No. 62403, $68. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.
1/32 SCALE KITS
Battle of Britain — Ready for Battle from
Airfix, No. A50172, $39.99. Includes Hawker Hurricane Mk.I, Albion AM463 3-point fueler, Bedford MWD, 10 ground crew figures, accessories, 16 Humbrol acrylic paints, 2 brushes, and 2 tubes of cement. Bristol F.2b fighter (post war) from Wingnut
1/48 DETAIL SETS
Wings, No. 32060, $99. Russian missile R-98MT AA-3D Anab from Plus
1/32 DECAL SETS
Model/Aero Line, No. AL4054, $15.90. For Su-15, Jak-28P.
de Havilland Mosquito from
Xtradecal, No. X32059, $12.50. Markings for five aircraft: T.Mk.III TV970 FK-V, 219 Sqn RAF Wittering, 1946; B.Mk.IV DZ421 XD-G, 139 Sqn Sq Co Peter Shand/Plt Off C.D.Handley, RAF Marham, 1943; B.Mk.XX KB253 RJ RCAF; B.Mk.XX KB288 VI RCAF 1944; F-8 334926 The Spook, Major James Setchell 3rd PRG USAAF Tunisia 1943. All Dark Green, Ocean Gray, and Medium Sea Gray.
www.FineScale.com Subscribers have exclusive access to model kit photos not published in the magazine! Simply go to FineScale.com/Reviews.
12 FineScale Modeler January 2016
Russian missile R-98R AA-3A Anab from Plus
Model/Aero Line, No. AL4051, $15.90. For Su-11, Su-15 and Jak-28P.
1/48 DECAL SETS Royal Air Force/Royal Navy RN Update 2015 Part 1 from Xtradecal, No. X48154,
$12.50. Markings for four colorful Battle of Britain and 100th Anniversary schemes: BAE Tornado GR.4 ZA461 XV(R) Sqn 100th Anniversary, Wing Cdr Jon Nixon/Sqn Ldr Conan Mullineux (with red fin), RAF Lossiemouth; Eurofighter Typhoon FGR.4 ZJ925/DXI XI(F) Sqn 100th Anniversary, Wing Cdr C. Layden (with black fin), RAF Coningsby; Typhoon FGR.4 ZK349 GN-A 29(F) Squadron Flt Lt B. WestobyBrooks, RAF Coningsby, in markings carried by
Battle of Britain 75th Anniversary from Airfix, No. A50173, $61. Contains Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IA, Messerschmmitt Bf 109E-3, Hawker Hurricane Mk.I, Heinkel He 111P-2, display stand, 12 Humbrol Acrylic paints, 2 brushes, 2 poly cement.
1/72 DECAL SETS Royal Air Force/Royal Navy Update 2015 Part 1 from Xtradecal, No. X48154, $12.50.
Markings for 10 aircraft: BAe Hawk T.1A, XX240/849, Royal Navy, RNAS Culdrose, 2014; BAe Hawk T.1A, XX327, RAF Centre of Aviation Medicine, Sqn Ldr G Kennedy, RAF Boscombe Down; BAe Hawk T.1A XX350, 208 Sqn, WWI Anniversarym Wing Cdr N. J. Gatenby/Sq Ldr D. Arlett (RFC green tail), RAF Valley; Eurofighter EF-2000A Typhoon FGR.4, ZJ925/DXI XI(F), Sqn 100th Anniversary, Wing Cdr C. Layden (with black fin), RAF Coningsby; Typhoon FGR.4 ZJ946 EB-A, 41(R) TES Sqn, Flt Lt D. Forbes, RAF Coningsby (standard scheme); Typhoon FGR.4 ZK344/H, II(AC) Sqn, Wg. Cdr R.G. Elliott, RAF Lossiemouth (standard scheme); Typhoon FGR.4 ZK349 GN-A, 29(F) Squadron, Flt Lt B. WestobyBrooks, RAF Coningsby in markings carried by Hurricane of 249 Sqn flown by Flt Lt E.J.B. Nicholson VC, the only VC in the Battle of Britain; Typhoon FGR.4 ZK353 /BQ, 29(F) Sqn 100th Anniversary, Flt Lt Jonny Dowen (with ruby red fin), RAF Coningsby; BAE Tornado GR.4 ZA461, XV(R) Sqn 100th Anniversary, Wing Cdr Jon Nixon/Sqn Ldr Conan Mullineux (with red fin), RAF Lossiemouth; Tornado GR.4 ZA456, 9 Sqn 100th Anniversary, Wing Cdr I.J.Sharrocks/Flt Lt A.H. Lock (black fin), RAF Marham.
1/144 SCALE KITS
DeHavilland Comet 4B from Airfix,
No. A04176, $23.
1/48 SCALE KITS
Panzerkampfwagen II (F1) SdKfz 122 w/ UE trailer from Bronco Models, No. CB35090,
$52.99. German Horch Type 1a transport vehicle
from Tamiya, No. 32586, $26.
AR MOR 1/35 SCALE KITS
Tractor Fordson N from Plus Model, No. 448, $100. 40 resin parts, photoetch sheet, decals for three versions.
Bedford MWD from Airfix, No. A03313, $17.
SHIPS
PzBeobWg V Panther mit 5cm KwK.39
from Dragon, No. 6821, $64.99. 1939-1945 series.
1/500 SCALE KITS
Chevrolet C60S petrol tank from IBG Models,
USS King from Renwal Blueprint Models, No. 85-0603, $19.95.
No. 35038, $54.95.
1/35 DETAIL SETS PzBefWg IV Ausf J with Zimmerit Fahrgestell Nr. 92200 from Dragon,
AUTOS
No. 6823, $72.99. 1939-1945 series.
1/16 SCALE KITS
XM153 Crows II from Bronco Models, No. AB3571, $22.99. AFV Accessories Series.
Morserzugmittel 35(t) from Bronco Models,
No. CB35196, $56.99. Kenworth W-900 Aerodyne Conventional
from Revell/Monogram, No. 85-2508, $79.95. Historic Series.
January 2016
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NEW PRODUCTS 1/24 SCALE KITS
1/32 SCALE KITS Ford 3 litre GT
from Airfix, No. A55308, $26.
“Fast & Furious” Brian’s Eclipse from Revell,
No. 85-4384, $24.95.
McLaren P1 from Airfix, No. J6013, $15.75.
Quick Build - no glue, no paint.
Ford Ranger pickup from Revell, No.
85-4360, $23.95.
1/25 SCALE KITS
MILITARY FIGURES 1/35 SCALE KITS
2014 Corvette Stingray from Revell, No.
85-4350, $22.95. ’29 Ford Model A Roadster 2 n’1 from
Revell, No. 85-4322, $26.95. French soldier, WWII era from Master Box
Ltd., No. MB35173, $22.99.
“Starsky & Hutch” Ford Torino from Revell,
No. 85-4023, $24.95. Drag Nut from Revell, No. 85-1382, $18.95.
British infantry before the attack, WWI era from Master Box Ltd., No. MB35114,
$24.99.
Bre Datsun 240Z from Revell, No. 85-1422, Speedwagon (Dan Fink Metalworks) from
$24.95.
Revell, No. 85-4373, $24.95.
German motorcyclists, WWII era from Master Box Ltd., No. MB35178, $17.99.
14 FineScale Modeler January 2016
SCIENCE FICTION
1/48 SCALE KITS
OTHER SCALE KITS
Poe’s X-wing fighter from Revell,
No. 85-1635, $22.99. Build & Play SnapTite kit. Action sounds.
WWII RAF ground crew from Airfix, No.
A04702, $22.99. 10 multi-part figures. Pilot BAC Lightning from
Plus Model/Aero Line, No. AL4058, $11.30.
Resistance X-wing fighter from Revell, No. 85-1632, $22.99. Build & Play SnapTite kit. Action sounds.
Manufacturer/Distributor Directory Aero Research Co. www.AeroResearchCDs.com
OTHER SCALE KITS French Napoleonic foot artillery 18041812 from Victrix Ltd.,
$38. 15 crew and 3 guns in each set.
MISCELL ANEOUS 1/35 DETAIL SETS
Airfix 253-926-9253 www.airfix.com www.hornbyamerica.com Caraktere Presse & Editions www.caraktere.com Dragon Models USA Inc. 626-968-0322 www.dragonmodelsusa.com • Aoshima • Bronco • Cyber-hobby • Dragon • Fine Molds • Fujimi • G.W.H. • Master Box • Platz • Riich • Showcase Models Australia • Zvezda • Concord • Firefly Books • Nuts & Bolts Books Hannants 44-1502-517444 www.hannants.co.uk • Xtradecal • Xtrakit Kalmbach Publishing Co. 262-796-8776 KalmbachHobbyStore.com
Cable reels (small) from Plus Model, No. 455,
$19.40. Laser carved wooden parts. Cable reels (big) from Plus Model, No. 456,
Merit International 626-912-2212 www.merit-intl.com • Merit • AFV Club • Kinetic
Schiffer Publishing www.schifferbooks.com
Mr. Black Publications www.mrblackpublications.com Osprey Publishing www.ospreypublishing.com ParaGrafix 508-431-9800 www.ParaGrafix.biz Plus Model 38-7220111 www.plusmodel.cz Retromechanix Productions www.retromechanix.com Revell 847-758-3200 www.revell.com • Monogram • Renwal • Revell • Revell Germany
Specialty Press 651-277-1400 www.specialtypress.com • Ginter • Crecy • Hikoki • Zenith • Classic Stevens International 856-435-1555 www.stevenshobby.com • AK Interactive • Freedom Model Kits • Hataka Hobby • IBG Models • MiniArt • Mirror Models • Noys Miniatures • Trumpeter • Lanasta • Trumpeter • Meng • Mr. Black Publications • Noys Miniatures Tamiya America Inc. 949-362-2240 www.tamiyausa.com
Round 2 574-243-3000 www.round2corp.com • AMT • MPC • Polar Lights • Lindberg • Hawk
Twobobs Aviation Graphics www.twobobs.com Victrix Ltd. www.victrixlimited.com Wingnut Wings www.wingnutwings.com
Scale Aircraft Conversions 214-477-7163 scaleaircraftconversions.com
$19.40. Laser carved wooden parts. January 2016
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NEW PRODUCTS Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-F Series,
$18.95, by Robert Jackson, softcover, 64 pages, color renderings, mostly black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-14728-0489-1. From Osprey Publishing.
Millennium Falcon from Revell, No. 85-1633,
$22.99. Build & Play SnapTite kit. Action sounds and light.
T-64 Battle Tank: The Cold War’s Most Secret Tank, $17.95, by Steven Zaloga, soft-
cover, 48 pages, color renderings, mostly blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-0628-4. From Osprey Publishing.
Classic Light Aircraft An Illustrated Look, 1920s to the present,
$34.99, by Ron Smith, hardcover, 415 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 9780-7643-4896-9. From Schiffer Publishing.
Jezreel Valley Mystères, $59.99, by
Shlomo Aloni, hardcover, 224 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 9780-7643-4825-9. From Schiffer Publishing.
Airbrushing for Scale Modelers,
$22.99, by Aaron Skinner, softcover, 128 pages, over 600 color photos, ISBN: 9-780890-249574. From Kalmbach Publishing Co. First Order Special Forces TIE Fighter from
Revell, No. 85-1634, $22.99. Build & Play SnapTite kit. Action sounds and light.
Panzer - The German Tanks Encyclopedia,
$45, by Laurent Tirone, softcover, 192 pages, color renderings, all blackand-white, ISBN: 9-782916-403076. From Caraktere Presse & Editions.
Ki-61 and Ki-100 Aces, $22.95, by Nicholas
1/43 DETAIL SETS Falcon Hold for Deagostini from
ParaGrafix, No. PGX195, $. ParaGrafix. Floor texture, control panels with decals, distintictive door frames.
BOOKSHELF Luftwaffe Mistel Composite Bomber Units,
$22.95, by Robert Forsyth, softcover, 96 pages, color renderings, mostly black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-0846-2. From Osprey Publishing . US Navy Carrier Aircraft vs. IJN Yamato-Class Battleships 1944-1945,
$18.95, by Mark Stille, softcover, 80 pages, color renderings, mostly black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-0849-3. From Osprey Publishing.
16 FineScale Modeler January 2016
Millman, softcover, 96 pages, color renderings, mostly black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-178096-295-5. From Osprey Publishing. Victory 1945: Western Allied Troops in Northwest Europe, $18.95, by
Gordon L. Rottman, softcover, 64 pages, color renderings, mostly black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47280947-6. From Osprey Publishing. German Commerce Raiders 1914-1918,
$17.95, by Ryan K. Noppen, softcover, 48 pages, color renderings, mostly black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-14728-0950-6. From Osprey Publishing.
Goodyear GA-28A/B Convoy Fighter - The Naval VTOL Turboprop Tailsitter Project of 1950, $14.99, by Jared
A. Zichek, softcover, 34 pages, 40 illustrations, black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-0-692-504338. From Retromechanix Productions. Scale Model Handbook: Diorama Modelling 2, $29.95,
softcover, 96 pages, all color photos, ISSN: 22418105. From Mr. Black Publications.
ELECTRONIC MEDIA Taranto 1940, $21.95, by Angus Konstam,
softcover, 96 pages, color renderings, mostly black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47280896-7. From Osprey Publishing.
Museum & Display Aircraft No. 1 from
Aero Research Co., No. 1060, $12.95.
“Used future” through Vintage “Star Wars” kit shines with careful masking and weathering • BY AARON SKINNER eorge Lucas wanted “Star Wars” to look different from previous sci-fi films. Instead of gleaming spaceships and cities, everything would have a past, looked lived in, stripped down, rebuilt, and repurposed. Pat Villarreal replicated that look on MPC’s 1/43 scale X-wing, a kit he got for $8 from a vendor at a show, but says the real reward was building and painting the iconic fighter to match the onscreen ships. After adding and correcting details, he base-coated wings and fuselage separately with a mix of Testors Model Master light gray and flat gull gray. Then, he lightly post-shaded panel lines with black. Knowing this model would be handled during the rest of the painting process, he protected it with a hand-brushed layer of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish. Pat masked panels with Tamiya tape backed with blue painter’s tape to protect against overspray. He says the trick to painting nice, straight panel lines lies in using faster-drying flat paints and airbrushing past the tape edge at a low angle. This keeps bleeding to a minimum because the paint is being blown away from the tape edge. Colors included Testors Model Master RLM 04 rot (red) for the stripes, panzer interior buff for the yellowish fuselage panels, and Testors light blue for the canopy frame. All of these colors were mixed with equal parts thinner and sprayed in thin layers, gradually building up to the desired opacity. The engines were painted with Alclad II aluminum, then post-shaded with Alclad II jet exhaust and thin black enamel. To give the engines an illusion of power, Pat painted them with fluorescent red and yellow. He mixed black and brown enamels, thinned them more than usual, and airbrushed shadows and recesses. The grid panels next to the engine covers were masked and sprayed repeatedly to get the correct density. Pat applied ground pastel chalks with a soft paintbrush over a sealing layer of Testors Model Master clear flat lacquer. Colors included black for shading, exhaust, and soot, white to lighten or highlight areas, and sienna for rust or stains. Mixing these colors created different shades of gray and sienna. Final assembly of Pat’s X-wing brought the twomonth build to a close. FSM
G
Spaceship construction To read details of how Pat tackled the challenges of the 37-year-old kit, visit www.FineScale.com/OnlineExtras.
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Markings: There are no decals on the model; Pat airbrushed all of the stripes and insignia to model an X-wing flown by Biggs Darklighter at the Battle of Yavin.
Engine glow: To power up the engines, Pat airbrushed the inside of the exhausts Testors Model Master fluorescent red. Dry-brushed flat yellow highlighted details.
IS
AIRBRU
layers of color
HING
ING & SH
Masking: For crisp panels and markings, Pat masked with Tamiya tape. Then, at a low angle, he sprayed paint from behind the line, minimizing the chance that paint under pressure would be forced under the edge.
Pastels: The chalk is ground up on fine sandpaper and applied with a soft brush.
FIN Panel lines: Rather than using a wash to darken panel lines, Pat loaded soft HB lead in a mechanical pencil and dragged it gently along the recesses. He formed a chiseled edge on the pencil’s point by rubbing it on scratch paper.
Meet Pat Villarreal
Shading: After the base coat, but before painting any panels, Pat airbrushed thin black paint along the X-wing’s panel lines. The post-shading gave the finish depth and preshaded the colors to come.
Pat says his X-wing brings back memories of 1977, when “Star Wars” came out, but he’s glad he didn’t attempt to build the challenging kit as a youngster.
PAT’S FIRST model was a Revell 1/32 scale Ju 87 that he built in elementary school with help from an older cousin. From then on he was hooked, developing a love for aviation that steered him into a degree in aerospace engineering and a career with an aerospace defense contractor. “One of the neat things about my job is I am allowed to build models during my lunch break,” Pat says. “That’s where I met IPMS member, Mike Quan, who introduced me to the world of aftermarket products. From there, my modeling horizon exploded. New tools, decals, photo etched, resin, and foreign kits expanded my modeling universe.” Pat, a member of IPMS-North Central Texas chapter, will build just about anything but prefers aircraft and sci-fi. He lives in Rowlett, Texas, with his wife of 25 years, Tracey, and daughters Celeste and Kathryn.
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UR
E
FOR
Painting faces
M&
FIG
Blending color for skin tones • BY JOE HUDSON
F
or would-be igure modelers, faces are one of the biggest challenges. Flesh is rarely uniform in color, and changes in shade and tone are subtle and sometimes unpredictable. Here’s how I painted the face on Heroes & Villains Miniatures’ 120mm bust of a Confederate soldier. hese techniques can be applied to igures of any scale.
1 First things first: Remove seams with a No. 11 blade and a Scotch Brite scouring pad. Hand-painted Vallejo primer revealed any blemishes missed in the preparation.
4 Be sure the base color reaches the ears, under the collar, and around the hair. I dip the brush in the water, then into the paint. Gently rolling the brush on a paper towel forms a point. Sometimes, I stroke the brush on my thumb to check the paint consistency and avoid flooding the surface.
2 Another layer of primer finishes preparation and provides a good foundation for the Vallejo Model Color acrylics used throughout.
5 Squirt a little burnt umber into one of the water-filled cups of the palette ...
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3 Create a flesh base coat by mixing beige red and mahogany brown in a palette. It’s easier to change the tone by adding the darker color a little at a time until you reach the desired shade. Filling the surrounding cups with water allows easy cleaning. See page 22 for a complete list of the paints used on the soldier’s face.
6 ... then flow it into the eyes. I outlined the margins of the face — the edge of the hair, collar, and hat — with a thin line of the dark brown. This starts the eye and helps frame the face.
7 Add a little light flesh to the eyes. I make my figures look to one side to avoid a bug-eyed appearance. I also think it makes them more realistic.
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Put a dot of color — I used Prussian blue — in each eye for the iris. Don’t worry if you get it on the flesh surroundings. You can always go back and make corrections. I do all the time!
Mix Prussian blue and light blue, then apply it to the center of each iris to refine the eyes. Finish with small dots of black for pupils.
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Mix a slightly darker flesh shade with beige red and mahogany brown for initial shadows. Apply it around the eyes, creases in the cheeks and nose, under the nose, and around the mouth, working it under overhangs.
Apply straight beige red to the highlight areas: tops of cheeks, eyebrows, nose, and chin.
Meet Joe Hudson
Essential tools for figure painting
MANY MONTHS of rehab for a leg injury after a serious motorcycle accident had Joe looking for an outlet. So, he turned to figure painting. That was more than 25 years ago, and Joe, now in his 50s, has turned it into a serious hobby and even a job, including sculpting for several figure companies. “I have been very fortunate that my hobby led me to work for a time with one of the best modelers in the world, Francois Verlinden,” he says. “During my time working for him, I sculpted several masters, painted some box-art models, and learned a lot about the hobby and the business side of it.” Married for 15 years, Joe’s a stay-at-home dad to two boys, Ethan, 13, and Brody, 12, who are active in football and track and field. “Being a stay-at-home dad allows me to take advantage of my hobby while my boys are at school,” he says. “This allows me to get some painting done during the day, have open time for lunch with my wife, scratch my dogs, and then continue late in the evening after the family has gone to bed.”
BEFORE STARTING A FIGURE I gather several essential tools. I use 0 and 00 brushes for most painting, and favor those from Acrylicos Vallejo and Winsor & Newton Series 7 of the many available at hobby and art stores; they’re expensive but worth the cost. You’ll need a palette to hold paint and mix colors. I use one made from heavy porcelain for ease of cleaning, but anything will work. Primers reveal flaws in need of repair and provide a foundation for the paints. I use Vallejo light gray surface primer (No. 73.601) or Tamiya sky gray (XF-19), applying the latter by airbrush. You need to be able to hold the figure for painting. I inserted a brass rod into the underside of this bust, then pushed the rod into the cork for support. Last but not least, distilled water: I don’t use anything else to wet or clean brushes.
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Next mix a thin, almost wash-like glaze of beige red. Carefully apply several thin layers to blend the highlight colors and reduce the contrast of the underlying colors.
I thought the soldier’s forehead looked a little plain, so I painted a few wrinkles on using beige red.
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Mix basic skin tone and sunny skin tone for another highlight layer. Keep it thin — it’s much easier to add layers. Apply this mix to the highest points within the previously highlighted spots using just the tip of the brush. Paint in small, fine strokes.
For lips and deep shadows, mix violet red and burnt cadmium red and apply it with a fine brush. This color is great for emphasizing deep creases around eyes and mouths to give the head character.
Vallejo Model Color paints used
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Apply a glaze of thin basic skin tone and sunny skin tone — I used the water left from mixing the previous highlight color — to blend the shadows.
I finished the Confederate’s face with a third and final highlight layer — a mix of light flesh and basic skin tone. To produce a weary countenance, I applied a thin glaze of violet red to the bags under the eyes. The eyebrows are a mix of burnt umber and black; the same color was used to add some stray hair and make the forehead more visually interesting. FSM
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70.804 Beige Red 70.812 Violet Red 70.814 Burnt Cadmium Red 70.815 Basic Skintone 70.845 Sunny Skintone 70.846 Mahogany Brown 70.926 Prussian blue 70.928 Light Flesh 70.941 Burnt Umber 70.946 Dark Red 70.950 Black 70.961 Sky Blue
Next In February, Joe finishes the bust by painting the jacket and cap.
1/48 Scale
RARE BIRD Mimicking a Hawk’s Norwegian, Persian color schemes can expand a builder’s painting skills • BY DARREN ROBERTS
M
ost modelers have a certain subject or theme that they gravitate to when building. Mine is naval aviation after World War II. But every so often, it’s fun to branch out from that theme and build something completely different. The inspiration to do that can come in many forms. Mine happened while I was casually surfing the Internet looking for various aircraft pictures. I happened across a picture of a Curtiss P-36 Hawk that carried an odd metallic blue scheme. After further digging, it turns out the plane was
24 FineScale Modeler January 2016
being delivered to Persia, or Iran as it’s now known. Extra intriguing, one of the ailerons was painted in the colors of Norway. It was just too interesting to pass up. I decided the various colors applied for delivery of this unusual paint scheme would be a good test of my painting skills. First, I’d have to create a good natural-metal finish. Natural-metal finishes can be a bit daunting, as every blemish seems to be visible as though illuminated by a spotlight. But with some patience, you can achieve a nice result.
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After completing the build of my P-36A Hawk, I airbrushed a few light coats of Alclad II Gray Primer and Microfiller for a smooth finish.
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Naturally, I thoroughly wiped the sanded surface with tack cloth to assure there was no grit remaining before painting the natural-metal finish.
Critical prep work The first, and most critical step, is to lay down a smooth primer coat. This coat will cover any imperfections in the plastic introduced during the building process. After constructing my Academy/ Hobbycraft 1/48 scale P-36A, I sprayed several light coats of Alclad II Gray Primer and Microfiller, 1. I have found this to be an excellent primer that can be sprayed right out of the bottle while leaving a beautifully smooth finish. Not wanting to leave anything to chance, however, I used progressively finer-
Using progressively finer sanding cloths smoothed the Hawk’s surface before I began applying a finish.
Now the fun began as I airbrushed on a durable Alclad II white aluminum base coat that I knew would withstand masking.
grit sanding cloths to really make the surface shine, 2. Inevitably, the sanding will leave residue that could spoil the natural-metal paint job. I prevented this by going over the entire model with a tack cloth, 3.
and painted over with no risk of being pulled up by the masking tape. After spraying the white metal and letting it dry, I used a 6000-grit sanding cloth and lightly went over the surface to keep it as smooth as possible, 5.
Natural metal
Tedious work
I was now ready for the first coat of natural metal. While there are a number of options for metallic paint, I settled on Alclad II white aluminum for my base coat, 4. Alclad II covers well with light coats and is extremely durable. It can be masked
Next came the tedious part of the project … masking. There are some darker areas underneath the blue coating. To replicate these, I used blue painter’s masking tape to cover the lighter silver areas and other places I didn’t January 2016
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I can’t emphasize smooth enough, which is why I used a 6000-grit sanding cloth before I began masking the Hawk.
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Now I could put Alclad II steel on the unmasked areas of the wings, which would give them a darker hue.
want painted, 6. With the masking complete, I sprayed Alclad II steel on the areas I wanted darkened, 7. Removing the masking tape showed the exact results I wanted, 8. I then turned my attention to the metal areas that would be exposed. I wanted to get a realistic finish of natural metal. It wasn’t polished to a high shine, but had a rather dirty look from oxidation. To accomplish this, I brushed thinned Tamiya acrylic smoke over the surfaces that would remain natural metal, 9. When the smoke was dry, I followed with dry-brush26 FineScale Modeler January 2016
Masking can be tedious, but it assures a better-looking model. Here I masked around areas that were to appear darker.
Voila! The tape is off and the wings reflect the darkened pattern I was after on the soon-to-be Persian Hawk.
ing Testors Model Master enamel chrome silver, 10. More masking followed to cover the engine area and wing fillets and to prepare for painting the translucent blue,11.
Adding the blue The blue is a product called Lionoil. It was a coating applied during production to protect the aluminum surface from dust and stains. It was a clear varnish, but was tinted blue to make it easier to see. This was a temporary coating that was supposed to be removed before primer and paint were sprayed on the aircraft’s surface.
Alclad II translucent blue was the perfect paint to replicate Lionoil. I sprayed it over the natural-metal areas in light coats, building it up to the look I wanted,12. When the translucent blue was dry, I removed the tape to check how it turned out, 13. Satisfied with the results, I got ready to start the next step.
Yellow comes next Next came the yellow zinc chromate … and more masking! I used large Post-it notes to mask as much of the flat areas as I could, and blue
9 Next up were the wing fillets, areas that would remain exposed natural metal. Here I applied thinned Tamiya acrylic smoke for a dirty look.
10 After the smoke layer had dried, I improved the look by dry-brushing Testors Model Master enamel chrome silver on the fillets.
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Now it was time for more masking to protect my earlier work as I prepared to add what was a blue-tinted varnish on the original Hawk.
If color is your thing, this is a fun step. I sprayed Alclad II translucent blue to replicate the Lionoil that covered the Hawk’s surface.
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Peeling off the masking revealed that I was on the right track now and the paint scheme was starting to take shape.
With new masking (Post-it notes on the flat areas plus blue painter’s tape), I sprayed Model Master acrylic yellow zinc chromate on the wings. January 2016
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After masking was removed, I took a thin, pointed brush to the wings’ smaller areas to create lines.
On the original plane there were areas of yellow that seeped through the blue, so I masked aluminum areas and dry-brushed with yellow.
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The yellow zinc chromate was still handy, so I airbrushed the soon-to-be Persion Hawk’s cowling.
But I needed to weather it as well to blend it with the rest of the plane’s look. So I dry-brushed silver along the cowl’s panel lines.
painter’s masking tape for the rest of the areas. I sprayed Model Master acrylic yellow zinc chromate on the leading edges, 14 and, after the masks were removed, handbrushed the smaller areas with a thin, pointed brush used for creating lines, 15. There were some worn areas where the yellow showed through the blue. To replicate this, I masked off the aluminum areas and dry-brushed yellow zinc chromate onto the Alclad II translucent blue, 16. With the yellow zinc chromate still handy, I moved on to the cowling. I sprayed the entire cowling,17, then weathered it by 28 FineScale Modeler January 2016
dry-brushing silver along the panel lines, 18. Using my thin liner brush, I created chipping at the cowling’s front edge, 19, and set it aside to be attached later. I finished painting by masking the control surfaces. The ailerons and elevators were painted with Model Master Metalizer nonbuffing aluminum, 20, while the rudder was painted white, 21. With the white still out, I sprayed ¾ of the top left aileron white in preparation for Norwegian markings, 22. With that, painting was complete and all that was left
was to apply the minimal markings.
Final details With the base white for the Norwegian markings already painted, I used strips of red and blue decal film to finish the aileron. For the rudder, I used dark green and red decal film to make the Iranian markings. The Persian numbers on the rudder were done with a liner brush, a picture of the real thing, and a steady hand. I now had an extremely different but interesting-looking model for my display case. FSM
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I then used my thin liner brush at the front edge of the cowling to make it look like chipping had occurred. Now I set it aside to dry.
It was time to mask control surfaces. Again, Post-it notes worked. I used Model Master Metalizer non-buffing aluminum on ailerons and elevators.
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Moving on to the rudder, I switched to white paint to match the images I’d found of the Hawk before it was shipped to Iran.
I used the same white on the top of the left aileron before adding Norwegian markings with red and blue decal film.
There’s no denying this Persian Hawk is colorful. A rare bird indeed! January 2016
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Paying it forward Dad teaches son modeling skills … patiently. Here’s how you can do it, too! BY JOHN & MAXIMILIAN BROSNAN
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odel building is a hobby that most of us picked up as kids from our fathers, uncles, older brothers, or friends. While adults are the biggest patrons of the hobby these days, we should be sharing our love of all things styrene with kids — even if we are combating short attention spans, TV, iPads, video games, and myriad other distractions. No matter the modeler’s age, nothing beats being able to say, “I made that!” when showing off the latest build. It’s not that hard to get a young person interested in modeling. But some careful first moves will increase your likelihood of planting a lifelong interest.
Choosing the proper kit Choose a kit appropriate to a beginner, not the latest 700-piece armor kit that has been calling to you from your stash. 30 FineScale Modeler January 2016
Pick a basic model to keep the build as simple as possible, reduce frustration, and actually reach completion, 1. Consider these two key points: • To snap or not to snap? Going with a snap-together kit may be a shot to the pride of an experienced modeler, but snap kits are great starter kits for young modelers learning the basics. And they are akin to Legos, which many kids already have experience with. Models just look way better! • Letting the young modeler pick the kit instills a sense of ownership and will help maintain their interest. My 7-year-old son, Max, has built eight snap kits, so we graduated to a traditional glue and styrene kit. From my stash of vintage Tamiya kits we picked the 1980s-era Tamiya M4A3 Sherman (No. 35122) in 1/35 scale. It has a relatively low parts count, larger components, and “old school” rubber-band track — perfect for a young
modeler and his dad to tackle. Keep in mind that the youngster’s choice might not line up with your current modeling interests. But this is a team effort, so if the modeler picks a Lamborghini Gallardo or the space shuttle, just go with it! This also is a great excuse for you to work outside your modeling comfort zone.
The tools Choose safe, simple tools: a sprue cutter, hobby knife, tweezers, files, emery boards, and glue, 2. Play clothes are the uniform of the day, as the last thing you want to be explaining are olive drab splatters on your kid’s school clothes. Also, be sure to use a drop cloth to catch the inevitable spills. You can keep the sharp end of the hobby knife’s blade stuck in a wine cork to keep it sharp and safe. I also white-glued my Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
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Let your child choose the kit and skill level that will allow him or her to be successful; use standard simple tools to teach the basics.
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My son Max cuts parts from a sprue tree. We found that if Dad helps hold the sprue tree, Max can more easily trim the parts.
bottle to a plastic lid so that it is less likely to be knocked over. Always supervise and emphasize respect for the tools to avoid injuries. Same for keeping the window open when using traditional hobby glue, as we did. Non-toxic tube glues are available at hobby shops as well.
Getting started Pace yourself. Break up the project into several half-hour sessions to keep it from becoming laborious for the budding modeler. Be sure to show patience — your young modeler is just starting and will be learning new skills like reading and following printed instructions, identifying parts on sprues, using tools, and putting together the model, essentially a 3-D puzzle, 3. This is a joint project so educate, advise, and help when necessary, working together to correct mistakes as the build progresses
Explain the tools’ uses and pick materials that your experience has proven will be simple for the youngster to use.
Once we had the parts separated, Max could slip the hull’s halves together, a big step in making the model look like a tank. That helps maintain a child’s interest.
— but try to resist redoing the kid’s work. Familiarize the youngster with the process and enjoy the build together. The idea is to help build interest and confidence, not to take a first-place trophy at the next big modeling competition. (At least not yet!) Patience will be harder than you might think — big globs of glue, pools of paint, and fingerprints, not to mention upsidedown parts, etc. are like fingernails on a chalkboard to experienced modelers. For us, the build worked best when Max handled assembly of the larger components, such as the turret, hull, and running gear, 4. I took on the smaller parts, such as headlight guards, machine-gun mounts, and lights. Even the simpler kits (yes, even snap kits!) can provide challenges for beginning modelers and those of us with aging eyes. The excitement will no doubt grow as the model begins to take shape, transforming from a “plastic puzzle” on a sprue tree
into a 3-D miniature, 5. Every step is an opportunity to teach about working with tools, assembling parts and subassemblies, sanding, painting, and weathering.
Explain, explain, explain! Aside from talking about the mechanics of model building, there will be plenty of opportunities to point out the history and details of the subject. Take time to point out what the parts do: turret, tracks, main gun, coaxial machine gun, etc. Kids really want to know what this is and how it works. As our build progressed, we did additional “research” by watching “Girls und Panzer” a Japanese anime TV series. Max became curious about armament of the Sherman, and that led to a lengthy discussion of the armament and effectiveness of January 2016
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5 Small hands are a benefit when piecing together the tank’s hull, while having a well-defined workspace helps a youngster concentrate on each task.
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Once assembled, the Sherman tank stirs more questions from inquisitive young Max. Plus, it’s ready for airbrushing, a great teaching opportunity and something most kids will look forward to.
8 I added strips of styrene weld beads to the tank’s sunken weld troughs.
U.S., British, and German tanks, 6. Fun stuff for an armor-building dad! Again, let them build as much of the model as possible. Kids learn by doing, and that includes making mistakes. Don’t be frustrated if your youngster doesn’t get it right at first. This is intended to be his or her model. The child needs to build confidence and “own” the project.
Keep the project simple I chose not to fill in the open sponsons or replace the one-piece grab handles with brass rod. That said, there were a few little things that I did do for my own modeling enjoyment, like adding texture to the turret with liquid glue and putty and using my pin vise to drill out the .50- and two .30-caliber machine gun barrels, 7. I also added weld beads made of styrene rod, filling in the sunken weld troughs on the model and texturing with a small file, 8. 32 FineScale Modeler January 2016
Just prior to painting, Max uses a pin vise, a tool that he’ll be happy he learned to use when working on future projects.
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We discovered that it was easier and we got better results (the ultimate goal) when I moved the model continuously while Max held the airbrush steady.
Painting Brush-paint? Spray-paint? Airbrush? As an armor modeler, I have a lot of olive drab spray cans around. I gave Max the choice of a rattle can, brush or airbrush to paint the Sherman. Without missing a beat, he responded, “Airbrush, Dad!” If you’re spraying or airbrushing, adjust your respirator for small faces, 9. Always work in a well-ventilated area and make sure that the young modeler thoroughly washes his or her hands afterward. Skipping priming, Max base-coated the Sherman with thinned Tamiya olive drab (XF-62), sprayed at 30 psi with my Tamiya HG trigger-type airbrush. While I encouraged my son to always keep the airbrush moving, painting worked best if I maneuvered the Sherman through the paint that Max was shooting, 10. Of course, I ended up looking like the olive drab version of Blue Man Group, but you
have to start somewhere! With the base coat dry, I applied panel fading to the upper hull surfaces, lightening the base with a few drops of Tamiya desert yellow (XF-59) and getting in some airbrush time of my own, 11. Prior to me joining the “old school” tracks with a heated nail clipper file (definitely a dad task!), I taped the tracks to a piece of cardboard so Max could airbrush them with Tamiya NATO black (XF-69). When it was dry, I airbrushed Mr. Metal Color stainless steel (No. 212) to give the tracks a metallic look. Max followed with a brush-applied wash of Tamiya flat black (XF-1) to call out the details, 12.
Decals Decals provide more choices for the young modeler. The kit-supplied decals were trashed after years in the box, so I pulled out an
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I applied a panel fade to the upper hull surfaces by adding a few drops of Tamiya’s XF-59 desert yellow paint to the base olive drab.
Max highlights the tracks with a Prismacolor pencil. It’s a good skill for youngsters, one that they feel they can easily control and which builds confidence.
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Our glossy Sherman is now ready for decals. Again, it’s time to let Max choose what he wants, no matter what the “official” look should be.
Max really liked the “cool” blacked-out stars, so on they went, along with the nickname he chose for his tank.
out-of-production decal sheet from Third Group that I had been hoarding for years. I gave Max the choice of the standard white stars or the blacked-out versions, explaining why the white stars were sometimes blacked out in combat, 13. He chose the blacked-out stars because “They look cool!” So much for history. I also gave him his choice of tank nicknames on the decal sheet. He picked Derby, so after a quick coat of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM), the decal went on the tank, 14. Decals can be a little fiddly, so we worked together to apply them — my son soaked them and slid them onto the vehicle, and I straightened them. Next, I hit the decals with a little Solvaset. When they were dry, I airbrushed a protective layer of PFM, followed by Testors Model Master acrylic flat. The idea was the additional coats would not only seal
the decals but also protect them from little hands. The flat coat added a slightly frosty appearance to the olive drab, but I figured the pending oil wash would solve that, 15. It did.
Weathering I explained to Max how oil washes help define the model’s detail. I tackled the turret and he handled the hull. I suggested adjusting his technique: Instead of dragging the brush front to back, try dragging it from top to bottom to simulate rain streaks. We used 502 Abteilung dark mud oil paint (ABT-130 ) thinned with mineral spirits for the wash, 16. The wash added irregular smears and stains on top of filling in some details, and also served to break up the monotonous olive drab finish. I also added a few irregular splotches of greens and other colors from my oil paint supply, doing my best to
break up the hull and add dust and dirt to the upper hull and turret. Max enjoyed applying the Mig Productions European dust (P028) pigments wet to the lower hull and tank’s running gear with a paintbrush. We thinned it to a muddy consistency with Tamiya acrylic thinner (X-20A). I stippled and drybrushed some of the same pigment around the hull and turret. Prismacolor silver and dark brown colored pencils were used to add random scratches and chips to the vehicle paint, 17. When we were finished, the tank looked as if it had seen combat.
Stowage By the time we had the tank assembled, decaled, and weathered, Max was starting to lose interest. Time for some quick thinking. I ran to the garage, painted some resin January 2016
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After using Solvaset on the decals I airbrushed a layer of Model Master acrylic clear flat over the decals, which created a slightly frosty finish.
Max takes care of the frosty finish by brushing on a wash of 502 Abteilung dark mud oil paint thinned with mineral spirits.
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The weathering, scratches and chips brought the tank to life. We’re just about to the really fun part, again where Max gets to make choices.
First, Max adds a plank to the weathered tank before I give him a variety of leftover stowage I created for him. Max loves jerry cans!
stowage, and presented my son with his choice of boxes, tarps, buckets, baseball bats, and even a teddy bear, 18,19, 20. “Ooooh, jerry cans!” he chirped. Max immediately perked up and wanted to load so much stowage that the AFV looked more like the Clampett family truck from “The Beverly Hillbillies” than an ETO Sherman. Once he narrowed his choices down, I white-glued the stowage to the vehicle, explaining to my son that tie-down ropes — represented by the string from tea bags stained with tea — were used to keep extra equipment from falling off, 21.
Figures We kept it simple and used the basic crew figures supplied with the kit. I airbrushed the figures Tamiya khaki (XF-49), desert yellow, and olive drab. Max ran a dark mud oil wash over them to pick out the details, 22. Done! 34 FineScale Modeler January 2016
... and then repairs Kids are inclined to try rolling a model tank on its treads, spinning the turret while raising and lowering the gun and opening and closing the hatches. Just like the real thing, your kid’s model tank will likely require ongoing repairs. So be prepared with a smile and your favorite glue and paint. We had to reglue a couple of bogie trucks, the mantlet, and the driver’s hatch, which was snapped off more than once. I also had to pull out the super glue, brass rod, and pin vise to fix the rear idler, which broke off from too much handling. Remember, these are kids! We also had our share of lost or broken parts along the way: lift rings, headlights, and other small parts. It was fun explaining the concept of “The Carpet Monster” and that, “No, it’s not a real monster, Max, just a mythical beast that only eats stray model parts.” I scrounged the missing parts from the
venerable Italeri M4A1 Sherman, lift rings from a Dragon PTO M4A2 Sherman, and more stowage from whatever was lying around.
Final thoughts By choosing the right kit, using basic tools and techniques (and trying a few advanced ones), any adult can partner with a child to share model building and create a model that you both can be proud of ! Max’s take? “I like building models with my Dad because you get to do all of this fun stuff, add all sorts of things. It is like making 3-D art. I also like the behind-thescenes of it all, learning how tanks work and what kind of mileage a Sherman tank got.” There you have it! With a little patience, picking the right kit, and letting the young modeler own the project, you can both have a great time building a model together. Today’s young scale modelers are tomorrow’s fine-scale modelers! FSM
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We put some of the stowage in place and I explain why this was a necessary way for the troops to carry their gear while on the road.
Max adds a small teddy bear to the tank’s nose, which gives it some real personality and drives home that this is a kid’s project.
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Stowage in place, we wrap up our joint build. Now all Dad has to do is help repair the Sherman as Max and his friends handle and play with the tank.
Figures in place, stowage strapped down, weathering completed with a dark mud wash, and Max and I were finished with a fun build where we both learned a few lessons. You can mentor a youngster, too!
List of materials Kit: Tamiya M4A3 Sherman (No. 35122) Putty: Tamiya gray (No. 87053) Glue: Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement (No. 87038) Tools: Tamiya and Xuron sprue cutters; hobby knife with No. 11 blade (stuck into a cork for safety when not in use); StepSander (No. SS320); sanding sticks; tweezers; files; pin vise; nail cutter. Airbrush: Tamiya Spray Works HG airbrush.
Meet John & Max Base coat: Tamiya: olive drab (XF-62 ) for hull; desert yellow (XF-59) for fading color; NATO black (XF-69) for base-coating tracks. Weathering: Mr. Metal Color stainless steel (No. 212) for track highlights; Tamiya flat black (XF-1) for track wash; Abteilung dark mud oil paint (ABT130 ) for overall wash; Mig Productions European dust for mud on the lower hull; Prismacolor brown and silver pencils for applying paint chips and scratches.
Figures: Tamiya khaki, desert yellow, and olive drab; Abteilung dark mud oil paint for overall wash. Extras: Evergreen styrene rod for the raised weld beads and sheet stock for fender supports; brass rod to pin broken idler wheel; lead foil for tarps; tea bag string for tie-down ropes; various plastic jerry cans, helmets, bucket, resin tarps, crates, and other stowage items sourced from the spares box.
John Brosnan is a salesman living in Southern California with his wife, Pam, and son, Max. He has built armor and sci-fi models since childhood and enjoys hiking and traveling. Max was in second grade during the build and has been building models ever since. He loves exotic cars, cool gadgets, and playing soccer. The Brosnan boys attend meetings of the Los Angeles Miniaturists Society.
January 2016
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READER GALLERY
▲ TRAVIS OFFENBERGER COLUMBUS, OHIO
”It’s a total shelf hog, but I loved every second of the build,” Travis says of his Academy 1/48 scale CH-46E Sea Knight. “It features a fully scratchbuilt interior that nobody will ever see again.”
▶ TYLER MacMASTER
BARRIE, ONTARIO, CANADA
Tyler, 11, had been building models with his dad for about a year when he sent this in. “I have completed five models so far,” he says. “I have been using my dad’s airbrush, but Christmas before last I received an airbrush. This is the first model I finished with it.” Tyler airbrushed a Revell Germany 1/48 scale Bf 109 with Tamiya acrylic paints, applied Ultimate Modelling Products washes, and finished with a coat of Microscale flat clear.
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◀ JOSEPH FLEMING MORGAN HILL, CALIFORNIA
After the Royal Aircraft Factory built 77 of the Scout Experimental 5, more than 5,200 were produced as the S.E.5a with an improved engine in the 200-horsepower Hispano-Suiza 8b. Joseph built Wingnut Wings’ 1/32 scale British biplane as the S.E.5a of J.J. Fitzgerald.
▼ MAHER RAGHEB DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Combining scratchbuilding with items from his boxes of spare parts, Maher provided a quiet place for Tamiya, Italeri, and Dragon figures, and various accessories in a 1/35 scale scene from Germany’s Italian campaign in 1943. He painted with Tamiya colors and weathered with pastels.
READER GALLERY
▲ ANDY COOPER PERTH, WESTERN AUSTRALIA, AUSTRALIA
Andy set Tamiya’s 1/35 scale T-34 in spring 1943. He wanted it to look battle-worn, so he removed one front fender, damaged others, and dented a fuel tank. After airbrushing the tank with Tamiya dark green (XF-61), he rusted the exhaust pipes by adding baking powder to rust-colored paint to produce a corroded texture. He weathered with artist’s oils, used a soft pencil to detail the engine grilles, and mixed white glue and flour with paint for mud. Sticks from his garden serve as scale unditching logs; extra stowed items come from his spares box.
◀ MARCOS VALLE RIO de JANEIRO, BRAZIL
Marcos enjoyed building the AMT/Ertl 1/48 scale Lockheed ES-3A “Shadow.” He says, “It’s a pleasant kit that doesn’t give you any headaches. It all works fine.” He applied Aeromaster “Vikings of the Fleet” decals. ▶ JONATHAN PRESTIDGE ELIZABETHTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA
Starting with ICM’s 1/48 scale Yak-7D1 longrange Soviet fighter, Jonathan modeled an early Yak-7, reshaping the wings, prop, and oil cooler. He installed a Squadron canopy, painted with Polly Scale acrylics, and weathered with pastels.
38 FineScale Modeler January 2016
SEND US YOUR PICTURES! Shouldn’t your model be in Reader Gallery? FineScale Modeler is always accepting new material from around the world. Upload high-resolution digital images (preferably unedited, RAW format) with complete captions at www.Contribute.Kalmbach.com, or send prints or CD-ROMs to FineScale Modeler, Reader Gallery, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Be sure to tell us the kit manufacturer, model, scale, modifications, paint and finishes used, and reason for choosing the model, along with your name and address. We look forward to seeing your work! ▲ CHARLES KLEIN FRISCO, NORTH CAROLINA
In a 20" x 36" panorama too large to be shown or described in its entirety, Charles mustered Zvezda, Italeri, Hat, Strelets, and Airfix figures to show the final surge in the ill-fated charge of the Light Brigade at Balaklava against the Russians in the Crimean War. He formed terrain on a wood base using vinyl screening covered with spackling compound. Basswood strips bolstered the earthworks, which he finished with sifted soil. Gravel dust provided weathering and color variations. Charles teased polyfiber pillow stuffing to model the billowing gunsmoke. Although he didn’t have the space to build a scale “Valley of Death,” he did employ 148 British cavalry figures, scores of horses, and 74 Russian infantry and artillerymen serving eight cannons.
◀ KEN MEYER COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO
Ken built Polar Lights’ 1/8 scale figure as a thank-you gift for a friend who’s a big fan of Marvel Comics — especially James Howlett, aka Wolverine.
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1/35 Scale
WEATHERED WHITEWASH for a paper panzer Modeling the VK1602 — a Leopard that never was BY FEDERICO COLLADA
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n March 1942, the Germans began design of a heavy reconnaissance vehicle to supplant light tanks being used in this role. Gefechts Aufklärer (battle reconnaissance vehicle) VK1602, also designated Leopard, was to be well protected and carry a respectable gun. MIAG would build the chassis; Daimler-Benz, the turret. Both were due by October 1942, with production beginning in April 1943. A full-size mock-up — with a layout similar to the PzKpfw II Ausf L, front 40 FineScale Modeler January 2016
Federico was never enthusiastic about “paper panzers” — designs that were never produced — but his attitude softened a little as he enjoyed Amusing Hobby’s kit. Now, he says it’s fun to build something without being restricted by history.
armor like that of the Panther, and a 5cm KwK39/1cannon as its main armament — was complete by May 1942. But priorities shifted and the program was canceled. The Leopard’s turret and armament did appear later on the heavy armored car SdKfz 234/2 Puma. Though this vehicle was never pro-
duced, two manufacturers released kits of it — first HobbyBoss, then Amusing Hobby (No. 35A004, the one I built). While doing research and deciding how to finish the model, the idea of a captured vehicle came to me. I decided to finish my Leopard with whitewash winter camouflage and American markings.
1 Airbrushing through a circle template makes it easier to paint the wheels without painting over the tires.
3 Depicting field application, Federico painted drab only on the outer wheels. For highlights on the upper hull, he airbrushed a thin mix of the base color with 30% dark yellow diluted 80% with alcohol at the center of the bigger surfaces, the upper portion of the main gun, and other salient features.
5 After waiting 24 hours for the decals to set, Federico painted the tools and weathered some edges (such as fenders) so they, too, would receive the winter whitewash to come. Again, he allowed 24 hours for drying.
2 Assembly was nearly complete before Federico started painting the hull. He began with Tamiya acrylic paints, applying dark yellow (XF-60) to the lower hull and olive drab (XF-62) to the rest.
4 When the paint was dry, he sprayed a coat of gloss clear to prepare for decals. When the gloss dried, he applied Vallejo Decal Medium to the spot, laid down the decal, and followed with Vallejo Decal Fixer.
6 For weathered whitewash, Federico selectively airbrushed with Vallejo Chipping Medium. He masked the stars with overlap to leave some drab around them, as in period photos. January 2016
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7 Immediately after airbrushing Tamiya flat white, he dipped a broad brush in hot water and started wearing away the white. He says, “The zones where more Chipping Medium had accumulated were easier to clean. Where less medium was applied, the white paint was more resistant.”
9 After another coat of flat clear, he finished by treating the tracks with LifeColor’s Rust & Dust Set. He followed with dark brown, green, and black washes to deepen details. Stippling a paste of bicarbonate (baking soda), pigment, and acrylic wash muddied the wheels, lower hull, and tracks.
Finally: Federico used an airbrush to blow a spattering of mud overall. When the last layer of mud had dried, he rubbed tracks and metal edges with a graphite pencil to replicate bared metal. He got a pair of U.S. tankers from his spares but can’t remember their origin. “I think both of them are from Dragon, but I can´t tell for sure,” he says. He painted them with Vallejo colors and placed them in the hatches to complete his captured vehicle that never was. FSM
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8 He made a few adjustments, reapplying some of the olive drab with a bit of sponge.
10 Federico used a dark brown wash around the wheels, and dark washes of brown, green, and black in shadowy areas. Stowage includes: camouflage netting made from gauze; nylon cord for rope; a bedroll on the left fender, made from tissue soaked with diluted white glue with other stowage pressed into it while the tissue was still wet; and a pair of rucksacks, Academy leftovers. He painted details with acrylic colors, then applied artist’s oil washes and highlights of Vallejo acrylic paints.
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Armor Gallery
FSM’s Forum Orphaned Armor Group Build
From August 2014 until March 2015, editors Tim Kidwell and Aaron Skinner hosted FineScale Modeler’s Orphaned Armor Group Build on the FSM Forum. Wanting to do an armor build with a twist, they set a theme of AFVs wearing markings other than their country of origin. Forum members jumped at the idea and produced a bunch of unique captured, sold, and repurposed vehicles from World War II to today.
▶ RUSS BAER (RBAER) DALLAS, TEXAS
Russ started his 1/35 scale Israeli M1 Sherman with three kits: the hull of Tamiya’s M51, the engine deck from Tamiya’s early M4, and the turret from Academy’s M4A2/76. Marked with Bison decals, the tank represents one of several Shermans that accompanied infantry taking Jerusalem during the 1967 Six-Day War. Russ painted the tank with Tamiya spray-can light sand over Krylon gray automotive primer, then weathered with acrylic washes and pastel chalk. ◀ HUGO GARZON (GARZON) SAN PEDRO CHOLULA, PUEBLA, MEXICO
“It represents a Hummel moving out of a forest into a swamp; how war turns a beautiful green steppe into a black, muddy, dead desert,” says Hugo. He built Dragon’s 1/35 scale SdKfz 165 self-propelled gun using Voyager’s photo-etched metal upgrade kit, which also includes resin, turned brass, plastic rod, and wire. The faded camouflage was applied with Tamiya acrylics, then weathered with Mig Productions pigments, streaking fluids, and artist’s oils. He made mud with orchid fertilizer and gave it a wet look with Vallejo gloss varnish and puddles from Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. The tree, wood, and small plants came from a local park.
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◀ DANIEL ATTILIO (DEATTILIO) TULSA, OKLAHOMA
Daniel built Academy’s 1/35 LVTP7 in Royal Thai Marine service with photo-etched details from Eduard and Voyager. The boat hooks were made from styrene rod; the tow lines were measured and cut from string, then soaked in dirty water before being wound and set on the vehicle and secured with PE straps. Using Internet images, he created the markings with the help of Photoshop and printed them on Testors decal paper. “The tactical numbers are dry-transfers that I rubbed onto clear decal paper and then applied to the model,” he says. “After 20 years on AmTracs while in the Marine Corps, they are my favorite subject to model. I have what probably amounts to a battalion’s worth of LVTs and AAVs from all eras and in many scales in my stash, waiting their turn on the hobby desk.” ▶ MARTIN BISHOP (BISH) BURY ST. EDMUNDS, SUFFOLK, ENGLAND
Martin added an Aber metal barrel and photoetched metal as well as Friulmodel tracks to Tamiya’s 1/35 scale SU-85. It represents a Soviet self-propelled gun captured by the Germans and put into use by the 23rd Panzer Division. “I wanted to replicate a used vehicle that had just been given a new coat of paint,” he says. He airbrushed the vehicle Russian green and weathered it with a wash and dirt around the lower hull and running gear. Then, he painted dark yellow without masking because he wasn’t concerned about overspray on the tires and exhausts. The markings are based on photos of 23rd Division SU-85s. “The figure is from the Tamiya (SdKfz) 251/9 kit and fit the scene perfectly,” Martin says.
◀ BOB BAILEY NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE (BOBBAILY)
Bob finished his Dragon 1/35 scale German T-34/76 with a mix of Tamiya white and NATO green, then weathered it by dry-brushing Vallejo Russian armor green and off-white. “I really enjoyed watching all of the other participants build their entries,” Bob says.
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Armor Gallery ▶ CODY JURAN (CODY J) SALEM, OREGON
Working with Trumpeter’s 1/72 scale KV-2, Cody modeled a Soviet tank captured by German infantry in 1941. He painted the model with Tamiya acrylics using the hairspray technique to beat up the whitewash. Vallejo washes emphasized recesses and panel lines.
◀ JOHN EATON (JEATON01) WOODLAND, CALIFORNIA
John built a Russian T-34 captured by the Germans and then seconded to the Russian Liberation Army and used in the Prague Uprising in May 1945 in the Czech fight against the Germans. Working with the venerable Bandai 1/48 scale T-34/76, he replaced the kit’s vinyl tracks with link-and-length plastic tracks from a HobbyBoss T-34. Insignia on the turret and figures shoulder patches were produced in CorelDraw and printed on an ALPS printer. He painted the vehicle with Testors Model Master and Tamiya paints. The HobbyBoss kit also supplied the engine, transmission, and munitions for the diorama, populated with soldiers and equipment from Tamiya’s 1/48 scale German tank crew field maintenance set. “This is the first tank I’ve completed,” says John. ▶ JACK GERATIC (JGERATIC) SOUTH PORCUPINE, ONTARIO, CANADA
Jack backdated Vulcan’s 1/35 British Light Tank Mk.VIB with a resin aftermarket set, Eduard photo-etch, and scratchbuilding. He finished the diminutive vehicle under Italian management after being captured in North Africa. “The Western Desert Campaign is one of my favorite subjects and being able to create a single build that represents both the Axis and Allies is truly unique,” says Jack.
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▶ BOBBY GIANINO (EAGLE90) ST. ALBANS, VERMONT
Inspired by a couple of photos, Bobby’s Tamiya 1/35 scale T-34 in German service marks several firsts, including the air-recognition flag. “I got some Archer Fine Transfers and did a flag for the first time,” he says. “Then I saw a picture of a T-34 that had one of the wheels damaged — I had to try to do that! So, with a micro saw and a Dremel tool, I replicated the damaged wheel. I tried doing mud for the first time — what a blast! And finally, I did a winter wash for the first time. So, this was not only my first tank build, but I tried about three different techniques I had never tried before.” ◀ TERRY STAFFORD (JIBBER) TRENTON, MICHIGAN
Terry referred to three black-and-white photos and a short video while building Tamiya’s 1/35 scale King Tiger as a tank captured by US troops on December 15, 1944, in Gereonsweiler, Germany, right down to the U.S. personnel and banner insignia. He also matched its late-war three-color camouflage, handwritten warnings, cable placements, missing or broken Zimmerit, and overall condition of a vehicle that had seen a lot of action. He added a set of Friulmodel tracks, some Eduard photoetchedmetal and Atak Zimmerit, along with an assortment of Mig Productions weathering products and 502 Abteilung oil paints.
▶ CHUCK DAVIS (CHUCK DAVIS) LAKE VILLA, ILLINOIS
Chuck modeled a unique Israeli vehicle by kitbashing two Hasegawa 1/72 scale kits — an M4A1 halftrack and a Daimler Mk.II armored car. After modifying the cab, he scratchbuilt the rear compartment and machine-gun turret. The Daimler’s 37mm gun turret needed minor modification and the addition of a .30-caliber machine gun from Chuck’s spares box. “I also replaced the cable reel on the front bumper,” he says. “This was my first attempt at an artist’s oil dot filter — scary!” FSM
January 2016
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1/48 Scale
Resin conversion and diversion Hasegawa’s F-16B becomes an F via the XL BY TIM McLAUGHLIN
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everal years ago, when I wanted to build a 1/48 scale F-16XL and none was available, I found a resin conversion set from Attic Aircraft that would transform the Hasegawa F-16B (No. 09544). If General Dynamics had won the Enhanced Tactical Fighter (ETF) competition in the early 1980s, the XL would have been redesignated E (single seat) or F (twoseater). Both were available from Attic; I chose the two-seater. Now you can get a 1/48 scale F-16XL from Skunk Models (No. 48206), albeit the single-seat version. But that would be the easy way. Instead, I embarked on a modeling adventure. I relied heavily on aftermarket items from Cutting Edge, now out of business — but the modeling techniques for melding resin and plastic still apply.
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Meet Tim McLaughlin A retired Air Force master sergeant from Norman, Okla., Tim’s favorite subjects are 1/48 scale aircraft, although he’ll build armor, space, and sci-fi models. “A lot of times I’ll get ideas for a model from reading a book,” he says. “Then I’ll research the topic to see what is out there and what I need.”
Sources F-16D cockpit set (No. 4291); F-16 wheel bays (No. 4194); F-16A/B exhaust nozzle (No. 4133), Aires, www.aires.cz F-16F resin conversion kit, Attic Aircraft, www.atticaircraft.com F-16 saddle tanks (No. CEC48428), Cutting Edge F-15E decal sheet (No. 48240), Cutting Edge F-16 Peace Marble spine, Cutting Edge F-16A Fighting Falcon Plus Interior (No. 49276), Eduard, www.eduard.com AIM-120B/C, AGM-88 decals (No. 48-095), Twobobs, www.twobobs.net
1 The Attic kit came with an upper and lower stretched fuselage, wings, and various other resin parts.
3 I decided to use as much of the Hasegawa F-16B as I could; it has finer detail and needs less sanding than the Attic resin. I determined how much Attic fuselage I needed, then marked the Hasegawa plastic for removal.
5 The CFTs and spine also needed to be cut and lengthened.
2 Collecting resin, I bought a Seamless Sucker intake, Conformal Fuel Tanks (CFTs) and a Peace Marble Spine from Meteor Productions, and a cockpit, exhaust, and landing-gear wells from Aires.
4 Following panel lines, I scored the resin and plastic pieces with a scribing needle; once I had a groove, I finished the cut with a razor saw.
6 I cut out the control surfaces for repositioning. Too late, I realized the panel lines on the upper and lower sides didn’t align. A lot of sanding left the flaps several scale inches short! January 2016
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7 The Aires wheel-well kit had better detail for the nose-gear bay than the Seamless Sucker set did, so I trimmed and sanded the Aires parts to fit.
9 I could see the wings would need a lot of work to smooth. The upper wing was easier because much of it was covered by the CFTs.
8 I glued three pieces of the lower fuselage together, then to the upper fuselage; if I had it to do again, I would glue each of those lower pieces to the upper, one at a time. The join of intake and main gear bay almost ended the project; the upper fuselage, intake, and gear bay all needed to be sanded paper-thin to fit.
10 The lower wing was a different story. Since the fuselage was too thick (probably all that added resin), there was a nasty step to fix. I taped either side of the join to protect surface detail in the plastic, then applied lots of putty (Squadron Green) and sanded it smooth. Gaps at the cut of the forward fuselage and around the lower rear plug were also puttied and sanded smooth.
Fill with putty, sand smooth
Sheet-styrene box
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Adding the CFTs, I used a syringe to apply putty to hard-to-reach joins. It’s hard to squeeze Squadron Green through the needle, but it puts a minimal amount right where you want it and nowhere else.
Filling huge gaps in the spine and CFTs with putty just wouldn’t work. I boxed as much of the area as I could with sheet styrene, then filled the remainder with putty. The port CFT shows the work in progress.
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After scribing repairs and pre-shading, ordnance was left to my imagination. I read that the XL could carry 40% more than an F-16 twice as far, so I pillaged my F-16CJ kit and spares box to come up with 13 pylons!
I painted with Testors Model Master FS36176 F-15 dark gray (or should I say F-16F gray!), going lightly enough to allow the pre-shading to show through. The gear wells are pre-shaded, too.
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I airbrushed the gear wells from the sides, preserving the pre-shading and imparting a realistically shadowy, grimy look. With all that heavy resin, I worried about the strength of the landing gear. But it held up.
Decals came from a Cutting Edge F-15E set. The F-16 is so much smaller than a -15, so the decals were too big. I copied the decal sheet at 75%, about the right size, and printed my own. After the decals dried, I covered the aircraft with Testors Model Master Acryl flat clear.
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Aside from the kit-supplied AIM-120s, the weapons are all from Hasegawa weapons sets B, C, and D. I needed two D sets for all the GBU-12s I wanted. Decals for the AIM-120s and AGM-88 came from Twobobs.
To make my little money-pit complete, I stuck an Aires exhaust in the back. It’s painted with Model Master Metalizer exhaust, non-buffing aluminum, and magnesium. I painted the inside of the turkey feathers white; black artist’s pastels lend depth to the details. FSM January 2016
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BALLAST FOR YOUR BASE Here’s an easy way to give Polar Lights’ display stands greater gravitas BY JEFF POLLIZZOTTO
Polar Lights display stands are handy, but weighting the base allows you to pose the model in dramatic attitudes. This kitbash combined the Moebius Voyager with an AMT K-7 space station from Round 2.
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hen Polar Lights released its line of domed display bases, it provided a good option for displaying in-light model creations. he styrene-and-metal bases work well for most subjects. However, you have to mount the model at its center of gravity for the stand to remain stable — the model usually
1 The bases are available in two sizes: “universal” (No. MKA006, 5.5" diameter) and large (MKA001, 7.5" diameter). 52 FineScale Modeler January 2016
outweighs the lightweight base. I wanted to display a few spaceships on these domes, but I also wanted a more dynamic look, as if the ship were lying off the base. I needed some counterweight. I found it was easy to upgrade these bases by adding weight and giving them a more inished look.
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Cut ⁄ " and ⁄ " styrene strips approximately 12" long. I used Evergreen styrene stock. 18
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Glue the strips together to make a 12" T. When the glue dries, cut the strips into 1⁄2"-long segments.
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Glue the segments to the underside of the dome base (four of them should do) and place the base upside down. A roll of tape is a good resting place.
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I use plaster to add weight. This is SceneARama casting plaster (No. C1201) I got at a hobby shop; simple to use, it dries quickly.
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In the meantime, cut a disc from .040" styrene; make the diameter about 1â „8" greater than the dome base.
Glue this cover to the bottom of the base, let it dry for a few minutes, then sand and smooth the lip to match the dome.
6 Mix according to the directions and pour the plaster into the base; if you need more weight, add nuts, bolts, washers, etc. Let the plaster dry for at least 24 hours.
9 Spray the base with the color of your choice. I use Krylon flat or semigloss black. When the paint dries, insert the rod to complete the stand.
Now your starship can strike an aggressive pose and overcome gravity! This is a meld of AMT’s Leif Ericson Galactic Cruiser with parts of a Polar Lights 1/1000 scale starship Enterprise. FSM
January 2016
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READER TIPS By Mark Savage Chain-link fence material
I just found ideal chain-link fence material for vignettes and dioramas in 1/35 and 1/48 scale in, of all places, the grocery store laundry aisle. The product is known as a washing-machine lint trap. For a couple of bucks, you get two rolls of 2" x 11" thin, flexible metal mesh. The mesh comes in “tubes,” which means you get 44 square inches of mesh in each of the two rolls. For either 1/35 or 1/48 scale, this gives you a long fence. For the uprights, I use thin straight pins with small balls at the end (you can get them at sewing and craft stores). – Ned Barnett Las Vegas, Nev. Storing and packing models
Recently, readers asked about storing and packing models. I split my models into those of equal span and configuration. I cut slots in the sides of a cardboard box to receive the wings. The slots should be snug and deep enough to keep the spinner off the box bottom. The model fits so pitot tube, antennas, ordnance, and other items are in the clear. I have been able to fit five 1/32 scale models nose down so landing gear and flaps and canopies do not collide. This mode allows clearance between tail sections also. The models ride well with no padding on the wing leading edges, no scratching, no hangar-rash problems. A rear seat in a most cars will hold three of these boxes with little problem, and this takes less than an hour per box to construct! I cut hand holds in either end of the box for ease of transfer. – Capt. Alan Edwards Olga, Wash. More thoughts on storing, packing
In a recent issue, a question was raised about how to store or pack models. I have been building models again since 1995 and must store most of my built kits that I canWould you like to share an idea about a tool or technique? Send a brief description along with a photograph or sketch to “Reader Tips.” E-mail tips@ finescale.com or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.
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You can make a scraper from a hobby knife by bending the blade with a screwdriver or other hardened metal instrument. Then just slide it along the part you need to scrape.
Make your own scraper ere’s a simple way to make your own scraper for seam lines, cleaning up flash, texture, etc. Sanding cuts grooves and fills texture with dust, while scraping removes plastic and leaves a clean surface. Essentially you can make a cabinet scraper from a hobby knife blade. Use a screwdriver blade or any other polished, hardened metal to roll the edge of a hobby knife blade over and form a burr. It takes four or five passes at an increasing angle to bend the cutting edge and your progress can be checked by picking at the edge with your fingernail. Pay attention to which side of the knife’s blade you form the burr on because you want it to develop on the side you will scrape toward you. To use, tip the blade about 5 degrees from perpendicular toward the direction you are going to scrape. Little flakes of plastic will curl off of the surface as you pull the blade along. The small tip of the hobby knife blade works well in hard-to-reach areas where you would never be able to fit an emery board. Once it becomes difficult to scrape a clean line, simply discard the blade safely and make another scraper.
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– Simon Kangiser Pasadena, Calif. not display. Here’s what I do — and it works. I use a simple box; the size varies. I shred newspapers into small strips and carefully place the models into the box in layers and cover the models carefully with more shredded newspaper. I layer about five or six 1/72 scale aircraft this way, or 1/48 scale aircraft, depending on size and type. At the top of the box, after the models are covered, I add one more layer of shredded paper, then label the contents on the box top and tape the lid shut. This method also
applies for 1/35 scale armor, except fewer armor models can be stored because of their size. I also use this method when I take models somewhere for a show-and-tell session. While periodically there is damage, a broken landing gear or antenna, those are simple to repair. I also secure canopies with small pieces of construction clay when storing a model. Hope this helps someone! – George Lewis Fugett Hixson, Tenn.
QUESTIONS & ANSWERS By Mark Hembree
Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty can be cleaned up with a damp cotton swab. That saves a lot of sanding, great for tough spots like wing roots.
You can easily repair dings and dents by flowing super glue into them. Don’t let it overflow; you can add more later. Sand it as soon as you can.
Filling seams and sanding them smooth
Q Many FineScale Modeler stories mention “filling seams and sanding them smooth” but then don’t explain how it is done. What’s best to use for filling seams, and what’s the best way to sand them smooth? – Jason Millet, Cozad, Neb.
A Thanks for writing Jason. You make a
fair point — in going through a lengthy project, we sometimes skip lightly through some of the standard details and don’t take as much time with things that are done to every model. Filling seams is one of those things. We could do a feature story on that alone — and we have in the past (Oct. 2006 FSM). You also can find Senior Editor Aaron Skinner demonstrating three different filler putties in an FSM Basics video at www.FineScale.com. Of course, there are more than three substances you can use to fill seams. For one reason or another, people have their personal favorites for fillers. Here’s a short list, beginning with the three putties Aaron showed in the video, along with some of their pros and cons: • Solvent-based putties such as Squadron Green or Squadron White putty are thick and work well for filling wide, deep gaps. They dry quickly, which can be a little tricky if you’re still working them, but they sand well. However, I’ve found large areas of this type of putty are prone to cracks and shrinkage. Also, solvent-based putties stink to high
heaven; the fumes are irritating at the least and unhealthy at worst. As with most stuff on your workbench, have ample ventilation and avoid contact with skin, eyes, and mouth. • Water-based putty such as Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty is my favorite; you can work it with a damp cotton swab, which means less sanding. When it’s dry, it sands easily; a damp swab or cloth will remove residual dust. I’ve found that it does shrink a little if you slosh too much water around it. Also, runoff can settle into surrounding panel lines; you’ll see it when it dries bright white. It also can dry inside the tube; always cap it as soon as you’ve squeezed some out, and squeeze enough out to discard any that has dried or become chunky. • Two-part epoxy putty serves well for big, irregular gaps or work that needs to be sculpted to shape, and it’s as strong as the day is long. However, it is exceedingly tough to sand after it cures. • Thin super glue is especially good for long, thin seams, such as on fuselages or wings, or for little dips like ejection-pin marks or nicks in the plastic. It flows and fills, sands smooth, and lends strength. You can apply it with a toothpick or a bit of thin wire. Pick up just a little and merely touch the seam; the glue will leave your applicator and flow along the seam. Easy does it; you can come back and apply more if needed. Sand it as soon as you can; it doesn’t get any easier later. Don’t overfill, or you’ll have a heck of a time sanding off the excess. There are several other fillers as well. GSI Creos’ Mr. Surfacer comes in different viscosities — “500,” “1000,” etc. Like sandpaper, the
higher the number, the finer the grade. Great for fine work in small scales, it can be brushed on and is easy to sand. I’ve also heard of people using spackling compound and WiteOut correction fluid. Another I may yet try is liquid styrene; chop and shave sprue, mix with liquid styrene cement, and you get a fastdrying filler that matches the kit plastic (because that’s what it is). For sanding, start with 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Use a cross-hatch pattern of sanding, and move to increasingly finer grits until the sanding scratches are gone and you’ve polished the work. Specially shaped sanding sticks may help reach oddly shaped places; padding behind the abrasive helps it follow curved surfaces to prevent flattening them. Depending on the surface, you may have to work your way up to 1200-grit or even finer; metallic and gloss finishes will show scratches like crazy, so you have to sand and polish pretty thoroughly. A primer coat can help you see whether a seam needs more work — and it usually does. FSM Got a modeling problem? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. E-mail questions@finescale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish letters of general interest in the magazine; however, mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question. Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.
January 2016
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WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits
Clear your workbench for the MiniArt ’dozer
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or a long time, modelers have sought kits of heavy construction equipment used during World War II; high on that list of wants was the Caterpillar D7 tractor. MiniArt has answered the call with not one, but four kits of the D7: a basic tractor, an angled-blade bulldozer, an armored bulldozer, and the subject of this review, the basic bulldozer. The large box is chock-full of parts. Well molded, they show excellent detail, fine shapes to the point of being delicate, and minimal mold seams. A few parts were broken on the sprues in my kit, but I repaired them easily. The kit includes individual-link tracks and comprehensive piping for the ’dozer blade’s hydraulics. A small photo-etched fret supplies seven parts. The engine is so detailed, I looked in the box for the 1/35 scale socket set to put
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it together. The only things missing are electrical wiring and fuel lines. The 20-page instruction booklet features detailed color diagrams for three marking options. Colors are referred to by basic name and Ammo of Mig Jimenez color numbers. It may seem strange to attach the radiator to the engine before adding the parts to the frame, but follow the instructions. It is especially important to add the plumbing when shown in the instructions, as things can quickly get in your way if you try to add it later. MiniArt molded the frame rails with the rear-drive housings making it easy to line everything up as you attach the rear box and cab. The plastic is brittle and, despite my best efforts to be careful and gentle, some small parts broke as I cut them from the
sprues. For example, both grab handles for the cab sides shattered during removal. I replaced them with lead wire bent to shape. According to MiniArt’s Facebook page, the company has experienced problems with its supply of plastic, causing quality problems. A switch to a different supplier is expected to alleviate the issue. I spent a lot of time fixing the control linkages in Step 23 after they broke into several parts. As it turns out, I could have saved myself a lot of trouble because all of that detail gets covered by the floor, never to be seen again. The only area that needed filler was the fuel tank behind the seat. Otherwise, a little Mr. Surfacer 500 eliminated any seams. I left the seat cushions and armrests off the model until major painting was finished. Building the track sponsons went pretty
smoothly; the only tricky part was holding all of the plates and road wheels in place while gluing the inner and outer sides. I found assembling the tracks challenging. If I properly understand the instructions, you are supposed to put all of the links together without glue, then glue the track pads in place. Trying this with two of the links showed it wouldn’t work. I built one sprue of links at a time, first attaching one link side (Dc3) to each pad. Then, I glued a pin to the wide end of each link. Once these were dry I added the other link side (Dc2) to the first pad, slipped the pin of the next link through the narrow side of the link, then added the other side, carefully gluing it to the track pad. It sounds complicated but it worked well. I built a jig with sheet styrene to align the links during assembly. You’ll need 36 links per side, and MiniArt gives you just enough
links — there’s not one extra. I installed the tracks after painting. Despite all the work to make the tracks workable, I suggest that they be glued in place once they are on the model. Nearly everything on the bulldozer was olive drab. So I did most of the basic painting during assembly, much of it while the parts were still on the sprues. The decals were thin but opaque and settled over a coat of gloss. I weathered the vehicle by airbrushing several shades of brown and applying enamel washes. A final pinwash of flat black enamel emphasized detail. I spent 49 hours building my bulldozer, and it presented challenges along the way. You’ll need considerable experience to tackle this kit. But if you’re up to the task, it produces a beautiful model. – John Plzak
Kit: No. 35195 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: MiniArt, www.miniart-models.com Price: $64.99 Comments: Injection-molded plastic, 815 parts (7 photo-etched), decals Pros: Extraordinary detail; clear lenses for lights; full-color painting/decal guide Cons: Brittle plastic; confusing diagrams; just enough links for the tracks
January 2016
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WORKBENCH REVIEWS
Airfix Hawker Hurricane Mk.I
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ess glamorous than the more modern and arguably prettier Spitfire, the Hurricane was the backbone of defense during the Battle of Britain. Numerically superior to the Spitfire, Hawker’s fighter was tough, shot down numerous Luftwaffe bombers, and helped stem the German tide. A lot of 1/48 scale Hurricanes have come to market over the years, even an old Airfix kit from the 1970s. But the British manufacturer’s new kit easily beats them all. In addition to the detailed cockpit, landing gear, and gun bays, the kit features oodles of options. They include posable canopy, open or closed gun bays, separate posable control surfaces, raised or lowered
Kit: No. A05127 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Airfix, www.airfix.com Price: $24.99 Comments: Injectionmolded plastic, 125 parts, decals Pros: Good fits and decals; numerous display options Cons: Minor mistake in instructions
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landing gear, and optional props and spinners. The light gray parts show fine engraved panel lines, and the fabric rear fuselage is subtly textured with a terrific rendition of the stringers. Unused parts for the Vokes tropical filter and Sea Hurricane arrestor hook indicate other versions are inbound. This kit represents the early Mk.I, packing eight .303-caliber machine guns. Decals provide markings for two Battle of Britain fighters in 1940 wearing early-war Royal Air Force day-fighter camo of dark earth and dark green over sky. Clear parts provide landing and wingtip position lights, gunsight, and a canopy with separate windshield. Two sliding sections are provided, one wider so it fits over the spine to model the canopy open. As usual with aircraft, construction starts with the cockpit. But the order quickly diverts from the norm. The multipart cockpit frame attaches to two long spars that extend deep into the wings. In addition to the floor, pedals, seat, and control stick, the kit includes decals for placards in the cockpit. I found it helped alignment to place the spars in the lower wing while the glue on the cockpit frame was setting. Cockpit colors varied for early Hurricanes, but I found photos of the style shown in the kit and painted the frame and lower walls aluminum and the upper walls and bulkheads interior green.
After gluing the cockpit and spar assembly to the lower wing, I had to decide whether to display the gun bays open. Settling on one, I carefully cut open the hatches from the port wing. The lines are engraved, so it’s easy to saw along them and gradually sever the doors. I detailed the bays with the gun butts and ammunition cans; they fit perfectly, but I needed tweezers to refine their position. The assembled fuselage needed no filler and slid into place over the wing and cockpit. The wing joins follow panel lines, eliminating any need for filler. The chin insert seemed a tad undersized and took a little work to position. After painting and clear gloss, I applied the markings. Printed by Cartograf, the decals settled perfectly with a little encouragement from Microscale solutions. Final assembly was trouble-free except for a minor hiccup in the landing gear instructions. Extension struts (parts D57 and D58) pass through frames, but steps 49 and 51 show them going into the wrong hole. Make sure you thread them through the opening closest to the front wall. The inset diagrams show the proper placement. I was impressed by Airfix’s Hurricane, and it’s accurate in shape and dimension. Good fit and engineering make for a fun build, and there’s enough detail to please most modelers out of the box while giving superdetailers plenty to do. - Aaron Skinner
Zvezda King Tiger
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he iconic German King Tiger has been a mainstay of many model company catalogs. Now, Zvezda joins the crowd with a Henschel turret version in 1/35 scale. Molded in dark yellow plastic, the kit includes a sheet of nylon mesh for the engine screens and gray string for tow cables. Overall, the molding is crisp and the fit good; I used no filler during the build. However, flash mars many of the parts and I had to fill several ejector-pin marks. My kit included several parts that were not completely formed (short-shot) and I replaced them with items from my spare-parts box. Where there are structural supports molded inside on the hull and turret, there are almost always corresponding dimples outside that require filling. Decals provide markings for five German vehicles. No Zimmerit is included, so check references for time and place to see if you need to add it. Several optional parts are supplied, but you’ll need references to see which is appropriate for the King Tiger you are building.
I followed the instructions, except for leaving parts off for ease of painting or to avoid breakage. Step 1 requires that molded detail be removed from the rear engine deck. Do this before gluing the hull together to avoid damaging the rear hull. The separate suspension arms are keyed for alignment. But there is still a little play in them, so be cautious. To articulate the suspension, remove the molded tab. I left the idler arm separate so I could adjust tension during track installation. The individual track links take a little time to clean up. I assembled the run in a jiffy with help from a HobbyTrax jig. I cut the nylon for the engine grilles using the printed templates in the instructions, but the mesh is difficult to keep even. It frayed along the cuts and didn’t want to stay glued to the deck. Aftermarket screens would be a quick fix. The rest of the hull assembled without problems. The gun breech details the turret interior and there’s detail molded on the inside faces of the hatches. Molded detail must be
cut off the exterior before attaching the front of the turret. The two-piece gun barrel fit snugly into the mantlet without glue. An antiaircraft machine gun mount details the commander’s hatch, but no gun is provided. I choose the 503 Heavy Tank Battalion King Tiger in 1945 from the decal options because that tank didn’t have Zimmerit. I base-coated the model with Vallejo German dark yellow primer, then painted it with AK Interactive’s German Dunkelgelb Special Modulation Set. The camouflage was painted with Vallejo Model Air panzer olive. (I realized too late that the color should have been brown.) The thin decals were easy to manipulate for alignment, but I had a little trouble getting them to settle around detail. I spent 39 hours building Zvezda’s King Tiger, much of it on the individual-link tracks. Otherwise, it was a quick, easy build. It has all components that make a King Tiger, but without the complexity of other kits. So it’s great for beginners, but offers a lot of options for advanced builders. – Mike Scharf
Kit: No. 3601 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Zvezda, www.zvezda.org.ru Price: $49.99 Comments: Injectionmolded plastic, 608 parts (mesh, string), decals Pros: Individual-link tracks; easy build Cons: Mesh for engine screens difficult to use
January 2016
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WORKBENCH REVIEWS
Roden Heinkel He 51
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he fledgling Luftwaffe of the 1930s needed a primary fighter, and they found one in the handsome Heinkel He 51. The biplane reigned supreme in the early months of the Spanish Civil War, but was soon outmatched by modern Russian-built fighters and relegated to ground attack. Roden’s He 51 includes markings for two Legion Condor planes, one in overall gray, the other gray and green. The molding is generally good, although some parts required a swipe or two with a sanding stick to square corners and refine mating surfaces. The interior includes stringer detail molded inside the fuselage halves and a separate tubular structure. The latter fits together without the benefit of locating pins, but the seat and floorboard provide
Kit: No. 452 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Roden, www.roden.eu Price: $39 Comments: Injectionmolded plastic, 87 parts, decals Pros: Mostly good fits; strong landinggear strut design Cons: Lower wing fit needs refinement; lack of instrument decals; bad clear parts
60 FineScale Modeler January 2016
alignment. Throttles and other details are included. Unfortunately, Roden doesn’t provide decals for the blank dials on the instrument panel. I used Airscale decal dials to dress it up. The fuselage closes around the assembled cockpit perfectly — no sanding or trimming was necessary. The good fits continue forward, with the nose and upper deck parts needing no adjustment. I left the deck off until after the exhausts were installed. Because of the aircraft’s design, the exhausts pose a problem no matter how you cut it. Difficult to mask in place, they also are hard to fit after painting. There’s a little flash on the parts that must be removed for a clean fit. I had to work on the mating surfaces of the landing gear struts to get a good fit with the outer sections, which are molded with the fuselage halves. The final structure is rock solid. I cut a slot in the bottom of the inner half of the wheel spats so I could install the wheels after painting. The big radiator on the belly features finely molded screen detail on both faces and fits the housing seamlessly. The only problem in the build showed up during installation of the lower wing; the fit is extremely tight and forces the lower wings down into a pronounced anhedral; He 51 lower wings should have a little dihedral. I trimmed the fuselage wing mount, the wing fairing on the lower wing, and both wing roots until there was enough play to angle the wings up. Tape stretched from wingtip to wingtip across the fuselage held the angle as the glue dried. Choosing to paint the two-color camouflage, I thought the suggested RLM 02
gray was too dark. I replaced it with RLM 63 light gray as suggested by references, and used RLM 62 for the green and RLM 76 light blue for the undersides. The paints are all Testors Model Master enamels. Pieces of a business card masked the fuselage while I airbrushed the exhausts. The decals were stubborn, and only multiple applications of Microscale Micro Sol forced them to cooperate. But they were very brittle, making it difficult to trim edges without chipping the ink. The stripes on the tail were too big, and parts of them broke as I removed them from the water. I have heard that using a hair dryer instead of setting solution may work better with Roden’s decals. The windscreen fit well, but it’s not especially clear. Roden’s accurate attachment points and struts make installing the upper wing a breeze. I attached the center struts first, then clicked the outer ones into place. The optional antenna posts on the wings will interfere with the decals, so wait to install them until after the markings are placed. I rigged the biplane with EZ Line, a stretchy nylon thread. Roden does not include a rigging diagram in its instructions, but the wonderful box art does a good job of showing where most of the lines run. In addition, Silver Wings — maker of a resin 1/32 scale He 51 — has an excellent rigging diagram on its website, www.silverwings.pl. I finished my He 51 in 26 hours, about average, and the decals were the only stumbling block. Anyone who has built a biplane or two should have no problems building Roden’s kit. – Chuck Davis
Freedom Model Kits F-20A Tigershark
D
eveloped in the 1970s as an evolution of Northrop’s F-5E, the Tigershark was powered by a single GE F404, the engine used in pairs on the F-18. The improved fighter’s impressive performance featured speeds in excess of Mach 2 and a ceiling over 55,000 feet. Although the aircraft was never in direct competition with the F-16, the Falcon won the drive for sales and Northrop cancelled the program after making only three aircraft. The 1/48 scale F-20A is Freedom Model Kits’ second product and replaces Monogram’s Tigershark from the 1980s. Molded in light gray plastic, the kit includes every available weapon and fuel tank option that would have been used on operational F-20s. All of the ordnance can be changed thanks to rubber grommets set inside the wings. Exceptional engraved detail marks the surface of most of the parts. Some of the steps in the instructions are small, so I found a magnifier useful. Crisply printed decals provide markings for all three of the aircraft, built in multiple color schemes. As a cool option, a second sheet supplies national insignia for many of the countries who looked to purchase the F-20: Germany, Austria, Japan, Spain, Turkey, Canada, Britain, Korea, Australia, Taiwan, and Singapore. There is no decal placement guide for these, so get creative with the “what-ifs.” Construction starts with the cockpit, which is cemented into the fuselage’s for-
ward section. The instructions call for neutral gray on the instrument panel top, but I painted it black based on photos. The separate rear section contains the jet pipe, intakes, and vertical stabilizer. The fit is pretty good, except when joining the forward and rear fuselage sections. A slight size difference produces a gap; you can choose to have it on the top or bottom. I chose the underside for easier repair. The gap was big enough that I added small strips of styrene as filler. The jet pipe has quite a bit of detail but is marred by a noticeable seam after the halves are joined. There is no way to remove the seam without removing detail, so I left it alone. Fortunately, the exhaust nozzle mostly disguises the problem. A small fret of photo-etched metal provides details but no seat belts. Bummer! That would have made the seat pop. The kit supplies a ton of options, including: two noses, different nose gear, posable flaps, open or closed canopy, tail hook, closed gear doors, different antennas, and 150- and 275-gallon fuel tanks. Then there are weapons: AIM-9L, AIM-9J, AIM-120C, and AIM-7 air-to-air missiles. Unfortunately, the instructions are unclear on the options, so references are essential. I built the box-art subject, the second prototype, which crashed during a demonstration flight in South Korea, killing Northrop chief test pilot Darrell Cornell. The gray finish allows the kit’s exquisite surface detail to shine. Instructions show
the anti-glare panel on the nose is medium gray, but I painted it with Tamiya NATO black — a closer match to the reference I used. The model is well engineered and I highly recommend it. There were only a couple of things that needed attention; the gap in the fuselage and the color call-outs in the instructions didn’t seem accurate. It is a much-needed, up-to-date kit of an interesting subject, and a great sophomore effort from Freedom Model Kits. I can’t wait to see what comes next. – Caleb Horn
Kit: No. 18002 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Freedom Model Kits, www.freedommks.com Price: $74.95 Comments: Injection-molded plastic, 222 parts (9 photo-etched, 10 polycaps), decals Pros: Beautiful surface detail; many options; a lot of weapons; good decals Cons: Some fit problems and inaccurate color callouts
January 2016
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Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation (Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685)
1. Title of publication: FineScale Modeler 2. Number of publication: 679-590
11. Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: Not applicable
3. Date of filing: October 1, 2015
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4. Frequency of issue: Ten times per year 5. Number of issues published annually: 10
13. Publication title: FineScale Modeler 14. Issue date for circulation data below: September 2015 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation:
6. Annual subscription price: $39.95 7. Location of known office of publication: 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, Waukesha County, WI 53186, ph. 262798-6497
Average No. Copies of Each Issue During Preceding 12 months
Actual No. of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date
61,722
57,511
25,852
25,845
0
0
10,505
7,874
A. Total no. copies (net press run):
Easily trim delicate, tightly spaced parts. Clean, close cuts. No pinching or twisting.
8. Location of headquarters or general business offices of publishers: Same
1. Paid/requested outside-county mail subscriptions:
9. Publisher: Brian Schmidt, 21027 Crossroads Circle,
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Waukesha, WI 53186. Editor: Mark Savage, same address.
2. Paid in-county subscriptions
Managing Editor: N/A
3. Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other non-USPS paid distribution:
10. Owner: Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53186; Stockholders owning or holding one (1) percent or more of total amount of stock are: Deborah H.D. Bercot, 22012 Indian Springs Trail,
4. Other classes mailed through USPS:
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0
C. Total paid and/or requested circulation: 36,358
33,719
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29
27
3. Other classes mailed through USPS:
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27
Broadway, Milwaukee, WI 53202; Susan E. Fisher Trust,
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33,746
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25,335
23,765
Grunden, 255 Vista Del Lago Drive, Huffman, TX 77336;
H. Total (sum of 15f and 15g):
61,722
57,511
Linda H. Hanson, 363G Bateman Circle S., Barrington Hills,
I. Percent paid and/or requested:
99.92%
99.92%
IL 60010; George F. Hirschmann Trusts, 363G Bateman
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95746; Harold Edmonson, 6021 N. Marmora Ave., Chicago, IL 60646; Laura & Gregory Felzer, 714 N.
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What’s New?
P.O. Box 2161, Waukesha, WI 53187; Charles & Lois Kalmbach, 7435 N. Braeburn Lane, Glendale, WI 53209; Kalmbach Profit Sharing/401K Savings Plan & Trust, P.O. A. Paid electronic copies:
3,886
3,204
B. Total paid print copies + paid electronic copies (sum of 15c and 16A): 40,244
36,923
N. Art Museum Dr, Milwaukee, WI 53202; Mundschau
C. Total print distribution + paid electronic copies (sum of 15f and 16a): 40,753
36,950
Family Trusts, 1530 Tallgrass Circle, Waukesha, WI 53188;
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99.93%
Daniel & Mary Murphy, 10200 W. Bluemound Rd., #333,
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New Product Rundown
Average No. Copies of Each Issue During Preceding 12 months
Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612; James & Elizabeth
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0
98.75%
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33154.
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We have over 8000 kits in stock from old Aurora to new releases. Please contact us for a FREE catalog. Please specify cars or military. Check with me before you sell.
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Classified Marketplace his section is open to anyone who wants to sell or buy scale modeling merchandise. FSM reserves the right to edit undesirable copy or refuse listing. For FSM’s private records, please furnish: a telephone number and a street address. All Copy: Set in standard format. First several words only set in bold face. If possible, ads should be sent typewritten and categorized to ensure accuracy. Coming Events Rate: $35 per issue (55 word maximum). Ads will contain the following information about the event: state, city, sponsoring organization and name of event, meet, auction or show, dates, location, times, admission fee, name and/or telephone number and/ or email of person to contact for information. Name, daytime telephone number and street address of the person providing the information is also required but need not be included in the ad. Unless otherwise requested, ads will be published in the issue month that the event occurs in. Additional months are available at the $35 per issue fee. Please specify issue date(s). Word Ad Rates: 1 insertion - $1.13 per word, 5 insertions $1.08 per word, 10 insertions - 99¢ per word. $20 minimum per issue. Count all initials, single numbers, street number or name, city, state, zip, phone numbers each as one word. Payment must accompany the ad. To receive the discount you must order and prepay for all ads at one time. We accept Visa, Mastercard, American Express and Discover. Send Your Ads To: FineScale Modeler – Classiied Marketplace, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Phone toll-free: 1-888-558-1544, Ext. 815, or fax: 262-796-0126. E-mail: onlineclassads@kalmbach.com
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COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA PLANES • ARMOR • CARS • SHIPS • SCI-FI
Metro Trains & Hobbies, LLC (239) 332-0422 metrotrainsandhobbies.com COMING EVENTS CA, CAMARRILLO Modelfest 2016. Sunday, February 28, 2016 from 8:30am - 3:00pm. Plastic model contest and swap meet to be held at the Commemorative Air Force hangar/Southern California Wing. 455 Aviation Drive. Admission $10 per person. For more information contact Vernon Morseman or Stuart Mackie at 805-658-8138
FOR SALE CANOPY MASKING AND MORE! WWW.EZMASKS.COM List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206, ezmasks@gmail.com SHIP AND AIRCRAFT MODELS. Built for display. For additional information contact, Ray Guinta, PO Box 74, Leonia, NJ 07605. www.rayguinta.com THOUSANDS OF MODEL KITS for sale. All types from Old Aurora to new releases. Send a 70¢ SASE to: Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington, Owosso, MI 48867. Specify Military List. Phone: 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com
WANTED A BIG BUYER OF AIRCRAFT, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hybrid or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-4627277. Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560. E-mail don@donblack.com AIRCRAFT, ARMOR, SCI-FI, FIGURES, AUTO, ETC. Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices paid. Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Independence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail: cth1@prodigy.net
We carry a huge inventory of plastic model kits from around the world! Full Line of Detailing Accessories. Airline models, Decals, Books, Promos, Die Cast Collectibles, Historical & RPG Games & Miniatures, Airbrushes & parts. Large Paint and Tool inventory. Full line R/C department. We ship worldwide.
www.colpar.com COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA To order call: 1-800-876-0414 1915 S. Havana St. For information: 303-341-0414 Aurora, Co 80014
EXPERIENCED MODELER to construct a 1/64 scale tractor/trailer rig. Donor parts, photos, and instructions provided. Some scratch building required. Contact Craig at 801-809-6286 I WANT TO BUY YOUR UNBUILT MODEL KITS. Any size collection. Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington St. Owosso, MI 48867. 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com MODEL CAR AND TRUCK KITS. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716836-6057. E-mail: fsterns@aol.com YOU WILL NEVER FIND TIME TO BUILD ALL THOSE MODELS. Unbuilt kits, diecast aircraft, military books. Milam Models, 519 DiLorenzo Dr., Naperville, IL 60565, Phone: 630983-1407, jetpilotpaul@aol.com
MISCELLANEOUS 1ST AND ABSOLUTELY THE BEST MUSEUM-QUALITY MODELS. IPMS Nationals winner building aircraft and armor to your specification, including conversions and scratchbuilt. Call BC Models for quote and information at 913-385-9594 or visit www.bcmmodels.com FINESCALE MODELER AUTHOR and IPMS medalist will build your favorite aircraft, specializing in metal finishes. Contact John Adelmann at 563-556-7641 or jjadelmann@yahoo.com
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January 2016
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Local Hobby Shop Directory Local Hobby Shop Directory listings are available for the next ten issues for $275 (payable in advance) or at $37 per issue (billed to established accounts for a minimum of ten insertions). Ads will be set in standard listing typography. All insertions must be consecutive and may be invoiced if you have credit established with us. No mention of mail order business permitted. For information call 1-888-558-1544, ext. 815. Closing dates listed in Classifieds section.
ALASKA • Anchorage
907-277-7778
ARKANSAS • Jacksonville
Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc. Discounts & special orders. Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays www.railandspruehobbies.com
RAIL & SPRUE HOBBIES
501-982-6836
CALIFORNIA • Burbank
818-848-3674
CALIFORNIA • Canoga Park
Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Trains from Z to O. Mon-Tues 10-5, Wed-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-5, closed Sun & Big Holidays. www.scalemodelstuff.com
SCALE MODEL STUFF
818-716-7847
CALIFORNIA • Garden Grove
Rewards program for 10% back on purchases. Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games. Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7 www.brookhursthobbies.com
BROOKHURST HOBBIES
12188 Brookhurst St.
714-636-3580
CALIFORNIA • Hollister
Model planes, car, ships & figures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 11 -6; Sun 12-4. www.debbiebartunek@mac.com
B.C.T. HOBBY & CRAFTS
201-C McCray St.
CRAFTEC HOBBIES
831-635-0537
CALIFORNIA • La Mirada
R HOBBIES
562-777-9492
239-332-0422
MILITARY HOBBIES
714-637-1211
WELLER'S HOBBYCRAFT
HOBBY BUNKER, INC.
800-876-0414
DENBIGH HOBBY CENTER, INC.
716-824-1049
14351 Warwick Blvd.
Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models. Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com
SKYWAY MODEL SHOP
631-924-0583
12615 Renton Ave. South
Specializing in R/C models and accessories, helicopters, planes, cars, trucks, boats, plastic, die-cast & model rockets. M T W F 9:30-6, Th 9:30-8 Sat. 9:30-5 www.modelland.com info@modelland.com
MODEL LAND LTD
3409A 26 Ave. SW
One of Canada's leading model shops. Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories. Free parking. On Parle Francais.
HOBBY HOUSE, LTD
80 Montreal Rd.
614-888-7500
Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products. Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com
TOP SHELF MODELS
WHEELS AND WINGS
918-274-0433
1880 Danforth Ave.
OREGON • Beaverton
Old kits & latest releases. Good selection of unusual model kits & accessories. We stock electric trains & slot cars. Open 7 days, 1pm-8pm. In the Katong Shopping Centre. www.hobbybounties.com
Complete full line hobby shop. Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5. 12024 SW Canyon Rd.
416-752-0071
SINGAPORE • Singapore
TAMMIES HOBBIES
248-586-1022
613-749-5245
CANADA–ON • Toronto
Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint and aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains and sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Mon - Fri 10-7, Sat 11-6, Sun 1-5 Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com
MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO.
403-249-1661
CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier)
HOBBYLAND
119 S. Main St.
206-772-1211
CANADA–AB • Calgary
212-987-4765
206 Graceland Blvd.
989-720-2137
757-874-5708
WASHINGTON • Seattle
OKLAHOMA • Owasso
HOBBY BOUNTIES & MORGAN HOBBYCRAFT
503-644-4535
865 Mountbatten Rd #02-91/92
65-6440-1890
62
FineScale Modeler Binders
65
Plastruct, Inc.
63
HobbyLink Japan
43
Red Frog Hobbies
Colpar’s Hobbytown USA
63
Hornby America
4
Roll Models
Dean’s Hobby Stop
63
Iwata-Medea
8
Sprue Brothers
9
J Display Case
9
Squadron Mail Order
2
Aves Studio
23
Plastic model specialty shop. New and old kits, foreign, domestic, books, paints and other accessories. We also buy collections. www.dhcinc.com dhc@dhcinc.com
Great selection of model kits, accessories, detail parts, magazines, tools & paints. www.hobbylandstores.com
DEAN’S HOBBY STOP
703-803-3103
VIRGINIA • Newport News
OHIO • Columbus
508-285-8080
We believe that our readers are as important as our advertisers. Cedar Creek Trading Post
Acrylicos Vallejo
1435 Lexington Ave.
HARRY’S HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES
If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us. Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the advertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. FineScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187. he Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. he magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.
13892 Metrotech Dr.
JAN'S HOBBY SHOP, INC.
508-481-5786
6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies. Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www. mymummy.com E: mummy@mymummy.com
Ad Index
PIPER HOBBY
856-435-7645
Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum. Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits. Open 7 days.
MASSACHUSETTS • Norton
1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.
Minutes from Dulles Airport & New Dulles Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center. PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC! Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5. www.piperhobby.com
NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan
THE SPARE TIME SHOP
210-735-7721
VIRGINIA • Chantilly
Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days
134 Middle Country Rd.
New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com
COLPAR HOBBIES
NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden)
MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.
781-321-8855
MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)
Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A. http://www.colpar.com
DIBBLE'S HOBBIES
1029 Donaldson Ave.
Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies. Books and magazines.
We moved! Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com
COLORADO • Aurora
Scale modeling from beginner to expert. A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10-6pm.
NEW YORK • Middle Island
Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available. Info: hobbybunker.com
972-438-9233
TEXAS • San Antonio
973-584-1188
2243 Seneca St.
MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston)
116 N. Washington Street
108 S. Lee Street
SECTION 8 HOBBIES
808-262-0211
Your source for plastic models, die cast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model. Mon-Sat 9:30-6, Sun 11-5. www.talbotstoyland.com 650-342-0126
M-A-L HOBBY SHOP
603-749-0800
WNY’s largest selection of models!!! We specialize in models. New, old, rare and vintage. Tons of detail and weathering products, paint, tools and so much more!
MICHIGAN • Owosso
TALBOT’S HOBBIES
Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes. Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7. Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com
NEW YORK • Buffalo
Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools. Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu. Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2
713-529-7752
TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)
KENVIL HOBBIES
706 N. White Horse Pike
HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu
250 E. Main St., Rt 123
2522 Times Blvd.
AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS
706-946-1120
CALIFORNIA • San Mateo
1915 S. Havana St.
590 Rt. 46
FREE TIME HOBBIES
Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza
G & G MODEL SHOP
702-889-9554
Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details!
Huge selection of model kits & accessories. Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more. Visit: www.freetimehobbies.com for complete listing. Monday to Friday 10-5, Saturday 10-2
33 Exchange St.
HO & N, Lionel trains. Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies. Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm www.gandgmodelshop.com
NEW JERSEY • Kenvil
Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books. Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8. Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com
New Products, Old Kits & Great Service! Everything you need to build plastic models Armor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more. M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm www.militaryhobbiesonline.com
445 South “B” Street
#334 90 Washington St.
865-675-1975
TEXAS • Houston
ELITE HOBBIES
203-882-1979
GEORGIA • Blue Ridge
767 Kailua Road
11145 Turkey Dr.
Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors
METRO TRAINS & HOBBIES
47 Dunbarton Farm Rd.
HOBBYTOWN USA
734-316-2281
NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover
Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tues - Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.HQHobbies.com
12951 Metro Parkway
East Tennessee’s largest plastic model selection. 8,000 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys. Located in Knoxville’s premier shopping destination. Turkey Creek Area. Open 7 days a week.
HOBBYTOWN USA
4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103
717-898-7119
TENNESSEE • Knoxville
While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories. Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.
860-646-0610
HQ HOBBIES
106 W. Main Street
NEVADA • Las Vegas
MASSACHUSETTS • Marlboro
CALIFORNIA • Orange
830 E. Lincoln Ave.
103 W. Michigan Avenue
CONNECTICUT • Milford
Wide variety of plastic kits. Old Nascar Kits - please call. Mon - Sat 10-6. Closed Sunday. 14269 Imperial Hwy.
MODELCAVE
860-627-7811
TIME MACHINE HOBBY
394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1
COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES
231-947-1353
Your single stop model building shop. Michigan’s largest selection of new and vintage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com
Come visit our new store! Plastic modeling kits. Paint, tools, scenery, & accessories. Scale model railroads & rockets. Mon-Sat 10:00am-6:00pm. Closed Sunday.
BURBANK’S HOUSE OF HOBBIES
7259 Canoga Avenue
Old & rare kits, largest selection in military kits, rockets, & cars. Exit 45 off I-91. 10 minutes from Bradley Air Museum. www.craftechobbies.com or Visit us on Facebook.
71 Hilliard St.
Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4 www.CoolTrains.com
MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit
FLORIDA • Ft. Myers
Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering
911 S. Victory Blvd.
210 East Front St.
CONNECTICUT • East Windsor
144 North Road
Let your imagination run wild! Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, model railroading Z to G and more...
TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES
203-869-0969
Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks. Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games! Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6
ANCHORAGE HOUSE OF HOBBIES
1200 John Harden Dr.
ANN’S HOBBY CENTER
405 E. Putnam Avenue
PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster)
MICHIGAN • Traverse City
Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.
CONNECTICUT • Manchester
www.anchoragehouseofhobbies.com Alaska’s best hobby supplier since 1964. Two stories, 6,300sf, 1st floor all R/C, 2nd floor general hobbies, plastics, trains, slot cars, telescopes & more!
2803 Spenard Rd.
CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob
Deluxe Materials, Ltd.
9
Dragon Models USA
67
8, 63
4
Strike Force Hobbies
63
Metro Trains & Hobbies
63
Tamiya America, Inc.
17
63
Model Rectifier Corp.
68
TotalNavy.com
63
43
OldModelKits.com
63
True Scene Modeling
63 62
Evergreen Scale Models
6
Fantastic Plastic Models FineScale Modeler Email Newsletter
MegaHobby.com
Albion Alloys, Ltd.
8
Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc.
6
FineScale Modeler magazine-digital
65
Pace Enterprises
8
Xuron
ARA Press
6
Fox-2 Flightgear
63
ParaGrafix
6
Zvezda USA
64 FineScale Modeler January 2016
4 63
4
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FINAL DETAILS By Mark Hembree
Nobody wants disasters, but everybody has them
L
ongtime readers of FineScale Modeler have often had the pleasure of seeing not only the greatest models in the world but also a close-up view of how they are built. However, when you’re that close you also have the chance to see more than a few flaws — and sometimes some spectacular failures, even by master modelers. It truly does happen to the best of them — as it did to Kevin Kuster in a memorable melt-
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66 FineScale Modeler January 2016
down that appeared in the February 2007 FSM. The story certainly lived up to its headline, “Triplane tips.” Kevin explained, “While trying to rush the drying time of a (1/48 scale Dragon) Fokker Dr.1, I melted the entire plane and nearly committed hara-kiri with my hobbyknife blade. In case any of you are wondering, drying oil paints with a portable heater so you can apply your decals quickly is not recommended! “While I was staring at my melted mess and trying to get over my anger, my wife walked up to me and said, ‘It actually looks pretty cool. Besides, you can always build another one.’
“As always, she was right — and I now had my modeling motivation. I would rebuild it … better … stronger … faster! Well maybe not faster, but I’d definitely try to do better on my next attempt.” And that is the antidote for the angst: Repairing the damage rectifies the error or replaces it with something done right — and then you feel better. So, we encourage you to send us a picture of your most epic failures — and their resolution, if you can. Submit photographic evidence and your explanation at www. Contribute.Kalmbach.com. We look forward to seeing your work — or what didn’t work — and hearing your explanation. FSM
3 #*6 #+&$ E E$' 2 2 2
Item #12302 1/48 USAAF B-25B "DOOLITTLE RAID"
he Doolitle Raid WAS THE lRST 5 3 AIR RAID TO STRIKE THE *APANESE HOME ISLANDS DURING 77))
T
4HE MISSION WAS THE lRST IN WHICH 5 3 !RMY !IR &ORCE BOMBERS WERE LAUNCHED FROM AN AIRCRAFT CARRIER INTO COMBAT 4HE " WITH A BOMB LOAD COULD TAKE OFF FROM A CARRIER mY TO THE TARGET AND LAND IN #HINA %ACH PLANE CARRIED FOUR POUND BOMBS TWO CALIBER MACHINE GUNS IN AN UPPER TURRET A CALIBER MACHINE GUN IN THE NOSE AND EXTRA FUEL TANKS 4HE PLANES WERE LAUNCHED W O lGHTER ESCORT FROM THE 533 (ORNET $ETAILS INCLUDE • /VER PARTS • 2ADIAL ENGINE DETAILING • &ULL ARRAY OF BOMBS • !CCURATELY DETAILED PANEL LINES RIVETS • ,ARGE CLEAR EASY TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS • &INELY ENGRAVED COCKPIT INTERIOR BOMB BAY • 0LASTIC PARTS DESIGNED BY !CCURATE -INIATURES • -ARKING OPTIONS FOR BOMBERS USED IN $OOLITTLE RAID