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MASTHEAD TEAM
Editor in Chief
Alexis Negrín Fashion Editor
heather Green Fashion Features Editor
Luis De Oliveira Intern Photographers
Alex Piñero & Fedrico Fossati Graphic Designer
Zukaira Nadal CONTRIBUTORS Photographers & Illustrators Alex Piñero, Alexis Negrin, Alison Wallis, Armando Branco, Bobby Cray, Carlo Zambon, Cherry Au, Cy Karrat, Federico Fossati, Julio Paniagua, Kim Lang and Raul Viera. contributing features editors
Conor Davage, Lewis Cameron. SPECIAL THANKS TO Alex Piñero, Blayes Heaven, Charlie Britton, Daisy Vaughan-West, Dulce Maria Hernandez, Federico Fossati, Heather Green, Isabella Wong, Lilly Wood, Luis de Oliveira, Raphael Lee, Ruth Coughlan. PUBLISHER
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new faces
jack c at first Photographer Alex Pinero Makeup &Hair Oscar Alexander
charles e at another species
new faces
reece h at omega
Lestat M. at premier
a t h c u B vI o ENTER INTO THE Written by Luís de Oliveira
FASHION OASIS OF
Oasis seems just like a desert when we talk about the fashion career of IVO BUCHTA and it is even just one side of his tempting divine temple. From the valleys & astonishing wide rivers of Austria, Ivo Buchta conquered quickly the fashion world – DOLCE&GABBANA, VERSACE, MOSCHINO and PHILIPP PLEIN are just a few fashion houses that embraced his talent as a model, while working with well-known outstanding photographers, such as MARCO OVANDO and MERT & MARCUS. Transcending the bound of fashion, Ivo assumes himself as an influencer, while promoting a healthy lifestyle. Dividing his time fairly evenly between fashion & fitness, he is everything but retro and we couldn’t miss his plans for the future while watching close his present! Will you?!
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interview
a t h c u B vI o IN ONE WORD HOW YOU WOULD DESCRIBE IVO BUCHTA? Courage.
HOW DID FASHION NOCK AT YOUR DOOR? WERE YOU ALWAYS INTERESTED IN FASHION? I randomly got scouted through a family contact. I never really believed I could be a fashion model, but then, I become one and it has added a lot to my life.
BESIDES YOUR PHOTOS IN AMAZING FASHION MAGAZINES, YOU HAVE SOME PHOTOS IN ONLINE JOURNALS AS A FOOTBALL PLAYER. IS THERE ANY DREAM HIDDEN? I used to play football before my model career. It was a big passion and I did it for more than 10 years. I always wanted to become a professional football player and I even played for one of the best clubs in Austria, but it didn’t work out. Therefore, I started thinking and invest more in the fashion world. Although, I still follow football and I watch as many games as possible.
Moschino is also on your dazzling fashion portfolio. How different & how metamorphic is to step into a catwalk in one day for Moschino, in another day for Dolce & Gabbana and in other the out of the box & creative Philipp Plein show? I think this is the great part of being a model! You get the chance to see many different and great things in the same industry. The diversity of brands identity is what makes fashion and clothes so awesome. You will always have a wide variation from brand to brand and it is very enriching since you have to develop and feel the fashion house identity to perform in the best way the show or the shooting . When it comes to editorials, you have been working with the photographer Marco Ovando through Moschino. Marco Ovando as a photographer of the human nature and the beauty of the body, he works a lot with the sensuality applied to fashion. Do you think that sex still sell? Or do you think that it is an outdated way for fashion business to grow? It is difficult for me to answer your last two questions as fashion always changes quickly and you can never tell what is going to sell and what not. All I know is that Marco is a fantastic photographer and luckily had the chance to work with him several times. I think at the end of the day, capable and strong brands will always sell.
a t h c u B vI o Does fitness play a bit part in your daily routine? Any advice when it comes to workout? Yes, it definitely plays a big part in my daily routine and also my whole life, actually. I have built my own workout, which includes a full body training in less than an hour. For me as a model, it is important to have a shaped body, but not gain too big muscles, in order to still fit the clothes for the fashion shows. My training keeps my optimal weight, defines muscles and does not need too much time to perform it. Above all, it is so fun!!!
You have been working in different fashion segments, from the high fashion to the sportswear fashion. Do you have any preference? Or do you love things in both of them? In any fashion job that I have done in my life, there was always something exciting and amazing whatever was the segment. To be honest, I don’t have a particular preference. Maybe, I identify a bit more with sportswear, but I really like high fashion work too. Doing a Dolce & Gabbana and even Versace fashion shows are just for killer heavenly models.
Can you tell us about these experiences? Those experiences were amazing and I am very happy for the chance to do them. To me, it was not always only about what kind of shows, shoots or work I have done, but more about the people I had the opportunity to work with and the many new friendships I made.
Fashion has brought to you some interesting & peculiar people around while having the opportunity for traveling to many different places. So far, between others, you have met Katy Perry, Jeremy Scott and even Calvin Richard Klein. How all of this contribute to your personal growth? It has certainly contributed to what kind of a person I am today. Being around those people has always been outstanding and at the beginning, I was positively surprised how friendly and down to earth they all are. Any special fashion moment you want to share with us? There are so many it’s not easy to choose a special one. My first big runway show or my campaign for Dsquared2, which was shot by Mert & Marcus were moments I will always keep in good memory. Where do you see yourself in 10 years? Currently, I am working on a fitness idea that I would like to see implemented in the future. During my entire life, I always have been interested in training people and so, it is something that I trying to explore. I want to start my project it Vienna, Austria. This is where I am from and I want to give something back to the people in my home country. In 10 years, I see myself training people and flying to any places in the world for modeling jobs.
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Photographer: JULIO PANIAGUA. Stylist CAROLJINA TAVIRO Total Look: DAVID CATALÁN. Sandals COOLWAY
ALEXANDER NEWMAN Grooming ANA DELIA. Hair/Mua JHONATAN RODRIGUEZ Model ALEXANDER NEWMAN at UNO MODELS Assitant LUIS MAY.
Shirt: DOS STUDIO. Pants DOCKER
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Shirt: vintage. Pants WRANGLER
T-Shirt: STUDIO. Pants DAVID CATALAN. Socks: HAPPY SOCKS
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Shirt: GARCIA MADRID. Pants DAVID CATALAN. Bomber: DOS STUDIO. Neck Tie: VINTAGE.
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Shirt: DOS STUDIO. Pants ARMAND BASI
Blouse & Pants: ANA LOCKING. Sandals GENUINS
Lost Values: A story taken from the past, inspired by the present and aimed to shape the future. A journey inviting to a world where heritage is taken with pride, knowledge is shared and cultural difference is celebrated. Lost Values is a collaboration that aspires to establish a different side to fashion, another meaning of make-up and shift in representation.
Photography: Kim Lang Styling Kashmir Wickham. Make-up & Grooming Luka Watabe. 1st Assistant Ciaran Christopher Model Bisi Alimi. Ciaran Christopher. Oliver at PRM AGENCY LONDON David. Tunde. Tomas. Nate. at NAMED MODELS
Earring: Vintage. Leather arm piece Christina Loannidou
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Choker: Velvet Eccentric
Choker: Velvet Eccentric
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Choker worn as head piece: Velvet Eccentric. Feather Headpiece Vintage
Choker: Velvet Eccentric. Black bead chain Vintage
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Choker: Velvet Eccentric. Bone Head piece Vintage. Leather head piece Christina Loannidou
Head Wrap made with Chokers: Velvet Eccentric
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Choker: Velvet Eccentric. Beads & crystals Vintage. Fur head Piece Christina Loannidou
Photographer: Alison Wallis. Stylist David James Cochrane Sunglasses: DIOR HOMME. Necklaces VINTAGE Beyond retro T-Shirt AFIELD Jeans TOPMAN
FIESTA ESTILO
Grooming ANA DELIA. Hair Byron Hadley (House of Hadley). Mua Elizabeth Hsieh.Model Ryan at SUPA MODEL MANAGEMENT, Darius at NAMED MODELS. Assitant LUIS MAY. Set Designer Kate Sutton. Shot at The Worx Studios, London
Sunglasses: Vintage beyond retro. Shirt vintage mOSchINO ARCHIVES. Jeans DIESEL. Sandals TOGA VIRILIS. Watch CARTIER
Sunglasses: vintage fENDI ARCHIVES. Shirt Vintage rockit vintage
Sunglasses: Vintage beyond retro. Shirt AFIELD. Jeans TOPMAN. Shoes MIU MIU. Jacket MAURO GRIFONI
Silk Pyjamas: DOLCE AND GAbBANA. Shoes KOJI HORIGOME
Kimono: Vintage. Glasses RAY – BAN. Watch CARTIER. Ring VINTAGE BEYOND RETRO. Slipper Gucci
Souvenir Jacket: Vintage ROCKIT VINTAGE. Belt GUCCI Watch CARTIER. Trousers RUGBY BY RALPH LAUREN. Slipper TOGA VIRILIS. Necklace Vintage BEYOND RETRO. Hat FRIEDRICH OF ROCHE
Photographer: Cy Karrat. Art director George Bunker shirt Nosomnia, trousersScotch and Soda jumper Beau Homme shoes Weber Hodel Feder
ROBERT & THOMAS Stylist: Becky Seagere HMU Ross Kwan Stylist assistant Robert Noble Models Robert at NAMED MODELS Thomas Egeler at FIRST MODELS
Shirt: Qasimi. Denim vest Customised Levis. shorts Beau Homme
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Jacket: Alex Mullins. Trousers Steve Jin. Badge Northskull
Shirt: Nosomnia. Trousers Scotch and Soda. Jumper Beau Homme Shoes Weber Hodel Feder. Braclet Northskull
Jacket and Shirt: Steve Jin. Trousers Lee Cooper. Shoes Clarks Jacket Samsoe Samsoe. Trousers Steve Jin. Shoes Dr. Martens
Coat Samsoe Samsoe. Shirt Vintage Trousers Scotch and Soda. Shoes Dr. Martens
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JIM I ULL E
Photographer: Alex Pinero. Stylist Patrica Humm
Model: Jimi Muller at ONE TIME MANAGEMEN/ Grooming Rachel Freeman. Stylist assistant Heather Green. Photography assistant Federico Fossati Pullover: Rag Yard. Scarf IA London
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Top: Glassworks. Shirt AOP. Sandals Camper
Denim Jacket: Acne Studios. Scarf K&K Labs London.
Track Suit Jacket: Rag Yard. Scarf IA London
Peacock T-Shirt: Rag Yard. Track Suit Pants Rag Yard
Jacket: Rag Yard
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Top: IA London. Kimono H&M. Shoes Eighty. Tights Calzedonia
Jacket: Bethold Tshirt Umbro Trousers Beau Homme
Photographer: Cy Karrat. Art director George Bunker
GIJS & KOJO Stylist: Becky Seagere. Make-up David Sesmeo. Hair Ross Kwan. Photo assistant Federico Fossati. Stylist assistant Robert Noble
Jacket and trousers: House of Holland for umro. Shirt Pinguins. Trousers vintage burberry
Jacket and trousers: Scotch and Soda. Shirt vintage. Boots Clarks. Bracelet Uno de 50
Poloneck and trousers: Berthold. Shoes Clarks Wallabies. Beret vintage
Shirt: vintage Gucci. Jumper Wood Wood. Trousers Scotch and Soda. Shoes Dr. Martens. Hat vintage Kangol. Belt Anderson belts. jacket Scotch and Soda
Blazer: Scotch and Soda. Shirt and trousers Beau Homme. Shoes Duke and Dexter. Pocket square vintage. Ring Northskull
Jacket and trousers: Scotch and Soda. Tshirt Samsoe Samsoe. Hat Nanamica
Tracksuit top: Umbro Jacket Remus. Jeans Levis. Bag Drifters. Braclet Uno de 50
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Jacket: Hunky Dory Bricklane. Tshirt Gucci
Photographer: Alex Pinero. Stylist Jose A. Cabezon
LESTAT MCCREE
Turtle Neck Hunky Dory Bricklane. Jersey Flares Ali Ekmekci. Leather belt ST-HENRI
Makeup & Hair: Oscar Alexander. Model Lestat Mccree at PREMIERE MODELS 80
Top: Ali Ekmekci
Jacket: Hunky Dory Bricklane. Tshirt Gucci
Suit: Ali Ekmekci. Shoes Dr. Martins
Suit & Top: Lynn Yaung
Jacket & pants: Ali Ekmekci. Sunglasses Vintage
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Suit: Lynn Yaung. Shirt ST-HENRI
Shirt: Diliborio. Trousers Berthold. Necklace Pyrrha. Ring Uno de 50
Photographer: Cy Karrat. Art director George Bunker
CY KARRAT Stylist: Becky Seagere. Make-up David Sesmeo. Hair Ross Kwan. Photo assistant Federico Fossati. Stylist assistant Robert Noble
Jacket: Soulland
Jumper Soulland. Jeans Levis
Jacket: Soulland. Trousers Nosomnia
Jacket: Levis. Sweatshirt Umbro. Trousers Levis. Hoodie vintage Adidas
Jacket: Alex Mullins. Trousers Beau Homme
Parka: Scotch and Soda
Jumper: Soulland. Jeans Levis
Jacket Alex Mullins. Trousers Beau Homme
Jumper: Beau Homme, Jacket Les Basics. Trousers Margiela archive. Boots Palladium Trousers: Berthold. Shirt vintage Burberry. Tshirt Filipa K. Shoes Dr Martens. Jacket Scotch Sweatshirt: Umbro. Hoodie vintage Adidas. Jacket KTZ. Trousers Nanamica. Shoes Weber Holder Feder
Shirt: Beau Homme. Jacket Vintage Trousers Nosomnia. Shoes Dr Martens Suit and shirt: Fei Fei Wang. Tshirt Maison Kitsune. Trainers Camper
Jacket:Vintage. Shirt Beau Homme. Trousers Nosomnia. Shoes Dr. Martens
Jacket: vintage Schott. Tshirt Scotch and Soda. Ring Uno de 50
ROSEATE NOVELTY Photographer: Bobby Cray. Creative Stylist David J. MUA Cece Kwofie. Fashion Assistant Vashti Henry. Models Amadou at FIRST MODELS MANAGEMENT. Ayush at BAME MODELS. Jospeh Independent (Recruited by Creative Stylist)
Shirt: Ted Baker. Jewellery Topshop. Shirt Versace Vintage, Jewellery Topman
T-shirt: Ted Baker. Trousers Max Mara. Jewellery Topshop. Shirt Asos Men. Belt H&M. Trousers Asos Men. Jewellery Monsoon Shirt: Zara Men’s. Trousers Max Mara Jewellery Accessorize
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Blazer: Julius Reuben London. Trousers Topman. Jewellery Monsoon
Shirt: Asos Men. Belt H&M Trousers Asos Men. Blazer Julius Rebuen London. Trousers Topman. Jewellery Monsoon. T-shirt Ted Baker. Trousers Max Mara. Jewellery Topshop
Jacket: Julius Reuben London. Trousers H&M Kenzo. Jewellery Topman
THE NIGHTFLY Concept & styling by Jeroen Kamphorst Photography by Armando Branco Grooming by Melanie Foëh | Colourfool Agency Model Rutger at FIC MODEL MANAGEMENT Location by Erwin & Kris | we are lovers
Shirt: Tommy Page. Shorts Vintage Adidas by Tommy Page. Tie Vintage Fendi. Socks Falke. Ring We are lovers. Necklace Lyppens Shoes Cole Haan
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Suit: we are lovers. Turtle neck Loro Piana. Glasses we are lovers. Ring we are lovers
Robe: we are lovers. Shirt tommy page. Sock falke Shoes Borgioli. Trousers vintage strenesse by we are lovers
Suit: Circle of Gentlemen. Shirt Hugo by hugo boss. Tie Episode. Socks Falke. Shoes fratelli Rossetti. Bag we are lovers. Glasses we are lovers
Sweater: Loro Piana. Scarf T0mmy Page Trousers Patrizia Pepe. Watch Henry London. Glasses Forever 21
Cardigan: Scaglione. Shirt Tommy Page. Necklace Lyppens Scart tommy page. Belt and trousers we are lovers. Socks Falke. Shoes Fratelli Rosseti
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Shirt: DEMO. Trousers DEMO. Boots Underground England. Jumper Vintage
COOL GEEK IN TOWN Photographer Cherry Au Stylist Pearline Yeo Styling Assistant Trishna Goklani Art Director Rain Gan Hair Weic Lin Model Thomas Tebbutt at FIRST MODEL. Oscar Kotting-McMillan at NEVSMODEL MakeUp Artist Rebecca Hampson
Cap: Supreme X. Bomber MRTN KJSR. Shorts MRTN KJSR. Socks Nike. Shoes Underground England
Cap: Palace Skateboard & Adidas. Hoodie Thrasher & HUF. Bomber Ergo Proxy
Glasses: Ray-Ban. Hoodie Supreme. Trouser Nevica
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Glasses: Jeepers Peepers. Shirt Palace Skateboard. Shorts DEMOS. Trainers Undeground England
Vest: Demons. Shorts MRTN KJSR. Socks Topman Trainers Underground England
Glasses: Jeepers Peepers. Shirt Palace Skateboard. Shorts Demos Trainers Underground England
Cap: Palace Skateboard & Adidas. Hoodie Thrasher & HUF. Bomber Ergo Proxy T-Shirt: Ergo Proxy. Shorts MRTN KJSR. Trainers Underground England
Hat: Polo Ralph Lauren. T-Shirt Thrasher & HUF Jacket Fila Sports Sneakers Underground England
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BOY ON TV photographer Carlo Zambon Art direction Jon Revell Styling & Casting Becky Seager Hair & Mak-up Sheila Carton Photo Assistant Will Jennings Art Assistant Sarah Jones Produced by Object All with Josh Rowley Toby Goodwin at MODELS I & THE PIG
Track Top: Champion. Shirt Maison Kitsune
Jacket: Topman Design Trousers Filipa K Necklace Pyrrha
Jumper: YMC. Jeans Weekday. Socks Uniqlo Shoes Dr Martens
Jacket Alex Mullins. Trousers Levis. Socks Uniqlo Shoes Dr Martens
Shorts Ashley Isham
Jumper Agi and Sam
Jumper: Ton Sur Ton Vintage. Shirt WESC. Trousers Our Legacy
Jacket Alpha Industries. Shorts Weekday
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Shorts Ashley Isham
Vest Champion. Trousers Alex Mullins Shorts Ashley Isham Rings VINTAGE
T-shirt & Jumper: WESC. Jumpsuit Ashley Isham. Jeans Topman Design
Jumpsuit: Ashley Isham
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Jacket: Dans La Vie. Jeans Levis
Shirt: Native Youth
fashion week
LONDON Spring Summer 2018
Written by Conor Davage Photography by Federico Fossati
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ulli Alex M
Alex Mullins continues to offer fully conceptualised stories around his designs for Spring/Summer. Mullins delivered a playful collection which took the audience through a ‘black mirror’ to showcase a narrative of past and present. The dyad was expressed in a seamless juxtaposition of 90s perfume commercials fused with contemporary fashion. On the catwalk, canvas material draped across the models and created abstract designs to subvert traditional ideas of dress, which for men should generally centre around functionality. Some pieces saw an asymmetric distortion of the shape of the garments down one side, resulting in unilaterally elongated sleeves and hems. This was complemented by distorted floral graphics which are emblazoned across macs, shirts and bags, harking back to 90s women’s fragrances but with a psychedelic twist. In terms of colour, the collection was a wash of canary yellow, magenta and orange, capturing a summery glow and energy. Some of the materials utilised to deliver this vision included yellow cashmere sweaters, block coloured linen in charcoal, and denim in mid-blues and indigo.
Craig Gree
es
dg Liam Ho
‘Noise’ was the word which plastered the Liam Hodges Spring/Summer collection, offering a commentary on the overstimulation that we all are victim of as a result of the amasses of information produced and shared in the age of the internet. The brand which is known for its blend of sportswear and workwear, for this collection, takes inspiration from diverse sources including grime, pirate radio, zine culture and folklore. The casual, streetwear aesthetic of the label is elevated by Hodges’ refinement of his patchwork details and unfinished hems of the track suits. At the same time, he dabbled with a new fabric for the brand, working with denim and offering a spectrum of washes and styles. The prevalence of collaborations this season can also be seen at the Hodges show, materialising as a presence from FILA. Hodges makes use of the colour blocking aesthetic associated with the Italian sports brand and featured the FILA’s ‘Original Fitness’ sneaker, reinvented by Hodges with a ‘mad texture’ and stamped with the dual branding of both collaborators.
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bl Bobby A
Each season, contemporary menswear designer Bobby Abley reimagines children’s television shows and pop culture hits for his catwalks. The London show saw a Teletubbies themed capsule range within the Spring/Summer collection and marked the 20th anniversary since the show first aired. The pieces worn by the models as they stomped the catwalk mixed daytime and loungewear. They included tracksuits and cropped hoodies emblazoned with nostalgic and playful imagery and featured an apt use of bright and childish colours and characters.
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For the first time, Craig Green showcased his collection outside of the LFWM residency situated on The Strand and instead decided on The Arches near London’s Southwark station. For this season’s offerings, Green continued to follow his signature sculptural approach to his designs. This took shape as triangular, wooden frameworks which attached to the front of some models and decorated with fabric, showcasing a more three dimensional execution of design.
The collection entitled ‘Messy Fun’ perfectly summarises the show which followed. The Teletubbies weren’t the only cultural reference to make the Spring/Summer showcase and also featured t-shirts with iconic imagery of Christina Aguilera, as well as a nod to last year’s Brexit vote, with details lifted from the EU passport and slogans which read “FOREIGN’.To close the show, Dipsy pranced the catwalk finale with models to seal the event as a celebration of the young and light-hearted spirit at the centre of the brand.
Rather than quilting, which features heavily in the previous work of the London-based designer, Green crafted a new technique for this season, which resulted in a corrugated-like texture and allowed for the fabric itself to have structure. Stripe and lozenge patterns, which appeared in the collection, had a distinctly middle-eastern quality with colour ways of oranges, prime reds, indigo blues, khaki greens, pastel pink and camel browns.
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MILAN
G old k c a l B l e s e Di
2018
The infatuation of contemporary fashion with the past seems a tireless one and a source of endless inspiration for designers. Diesel Black Gold peers into the 90s for Spring/Summer 2018 to create a ‘Techno Grunge” themed show. This can be seen in the use of baggy materials for jacket sleeves and wide-leg trousers, with some incorporation of plaid, stripe and bold-colour shirts. The offerings also signal a sporty and urban aesthetic with a blue-hue dominating the colour scheme. Intelligent layering achieved the desired aesthetic as shorts paired over leggings created an athletic appeal while short sleeved tops were styled over long sleeved tees for the 90s Nirvana effect.
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itti Uo P n o s r e d n JW A
A paired back collection marked J.W. Anderson’s tenyear anniversary. This collection, for Anderson, was inspired by himself as a tourist in Florence. This is particularly relevant as he is showing outside of London Fashion Week Men’s for the first time since the brands inception a decade ago. At Pitti Uomo, this materialised in the form of graphic tees, relaxed, wide-leg jeans and trench coats – distinctly different from the more gender fluid and boundary pushing designs which the industry has come to expect. This event also coincided with Converse’s announcement of their ‘long-term’ design collaboration with the London brand. Together, they have a product which boasts democratic street style and accessible luxury.
Prada
Prada took a leaf out of comic books as the inspiration for their collection. Simplified, black and white panels of graphics were seen printed across their Spring/ Summer garments. The idea behind the collection was to offer a commentary on virtual reality and its connection to human experiences, with so much of what we do now happening in the online world. The former was established with sportswear influences of nylon and velcro, while the latter by more traditional foundations of knitwear, overcoats and styled with popped collars. The staple piece of the Prada menswear collection was the jumpsuit, which in many ways incorporated both aspects, fusing workwear with a novel wardrobe option for men.
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ana b b a G & e c l Do
Each season, Dolce and Gabbana recruit an army of millennial stars and social media sensations to walk the catwalk. At the June show, favourites Oliver Cheshire, Presley Gerber and Nash Grier wore a burst of colour and patterns for Spring/Summer. The motifs on show nodded to art pieces, animal prints and cartoon-like graphics teamed with coordinating or clashing patterns. The accompanying solid-coloured suits took on bright hues of tangerine, teal, gold, shamrock green and orange, while other tailoring featured repeat pattern details of Sicilian fruit. The looks were further styled with loafers for a formal finish, or sneakers which likely appealed to their millennial audience. Overall, Dolce and Gabbana produced a loud and colourful show and exactly what you come to expect from the duo.
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PARIS 2018
ain
Palomo Sp
The brand’s gender blending image fused with their Spanish influence for their Spring/Summer ’18 catwalk in Paris and proved to cement the identity of the label. Models sported rich red and black fabrics which formed to create flamenco dance wear. This was achieved with selective ruf fling of fabrics, cropped jackets and wide-legged trousers. The capsule collection, as designer Alejandro Gomez Palomo called it, incorporates fine craftsmanship with experimental design, in which the beautifully made clothes had no distinct gender. Instead, giving dresses a masculine aesthetic while granting a soft effeminacy to tailoring.
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omme H n o ç r a G s omme de
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Rick Owen
Scaffolding framed the Rick Owens show held at the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo. Models scaled the metal structure before descending to the catwalk below which bridged across a pool of water. The show, for Owens, was a commentary on the “chaotic human condition”. Dark tones washed the garments, consisting of black, grey, white and khaki. The utilitarian influence was seen by the addition of functional bags that were belted to the models’ waists and hiking boots. Some modern tailoring featured in the collection in the form of high waisted and wide-legged trousers, as well as sleeveless suit jackets.
Balenciaga
Plus
Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer ’18 catwalk was a walk in the park, quite literally. Models sported the season’s offerings along a pathway surrounded by trees and greenery. The clothing on show reflected the chosen location of Bois de Boulogne in Paris as the inspiration came from the idea of the ‘great outdoors’. This was accompanied by the ‘dad’ aesthetic, as men walked the catwalk with children for a happy families vibe meets high fashion. Trousers took shape with high wasted, belted and tapering details and were paired with hiking-appropriate trainers, while jackets and shirts had an oversized fit. Other looks featured unusual layering of shirts, as well as shorts over trousers. The brand painted a vivid picture of their customer as a corporate man who manages to find the work-life balance to spend time with his children in nature.
Models took to a square podium at the Paris show of Comme des Garçon Homme Plus, marking the first show since the Met Gala held in Rei Kawakubo’s honour last May. Instead of taking the linear direction of most catwalks, the models walked playfully in circles around each other, creating the atmosphere of a nightclub. They were dressed in patchwork details and clashing styling with a myriad of colour, pattern and texture. These included glitter, sequins, doll body part prints, red fur and floral patterns. The jackets donned by the models where worn inside out for the duration of the catwalk, prompting the show to be titled ‘What’s on the Inside Matters.” Kawakubo also collaborated with Nike to bring custom Air Max 180 to the showcase.
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NEWYORK 2018
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Raf Simon
The scene for Simons’ NYFW show was set beneath a bridge in neon-saturated Chinatown. The looks which made up the collection seemed to take reference from traditional Chinese agriculture but combined with a Raf Simons twist, which added a futuristic flavour. Each look was paired with a selection of transparent and black umbrellas, held by neon poles which further lit the models’ faces. Many of the garments on show took an oversized shape where trenches, trousers and sweaters consumed the frame of the slim-set models. While coats which where made of both leather and PVC-like materials sported colour-blocking details, wool sweaters and cotton trousers had more complex geometric patterns. All styled with PVC wellies and wide-rim hats to achieve an outdoorsy appeal.
Luar
Brought to you by Hood By Air co-founder Raul Lopez, a new brand showed at NYFW under the trading name LUAR (which is Raul spelt backwards). The premier show by the brand took on Corporate America, subverting some common business dress codes and other norms associated with a 9-5 career. This was seen in reworked pinstripe suits, stitched ties and halter neck shirts paired with utility jackets and trousers. The designer used the platform to comment on the role of conventional clothes as a mask which gives the illusion on masculinity and how this is perpetuated in the workplace. This collection, by its nature, breaks the rules very rules which inspired it in the first place – giving a new meaning to workplace attire.
ia
arr v a h C y l l i W
Another up-and-coming designer which showed at NYFW was Willy Chavarria, who also explored a similar topic of uniforms of a specific domain – more specifically fetish and queer culture in America. Remaining true to the inspiration, the collection was showed in Eagle leather bar on West 28th St. where models cruised the catwalk donning some high-fashion takes on common tropes of underground gay scenes: leather trousers, gloves, hats and other leather trimmings.This was paired with t-shirts which read ‘Silence still equals death’ – known to anyone familiar with HIV/AIDS campaigns against stigmatisation – and the self-explanatory ‘How can I tell my mom and dad?’
Boss
BOSS’ ‘Summer of ease’ collection marked a relaxed, summery line from the brand. This show drew in an impressive array of high-profile guests who sat front row of the Fulton Market Building. The loose-fitting and light-weight garments donned a spectrum of shades of cream. These came in the form of slouchy trousers, trailing coats, knee-length shorts, 50s-style shirts and lace-up tops. A newly conceptualised ‘HBNY’ logo was printed across t-shirts, belts, trainers and bags. The looks were paired with classic, cream shoes to seal the monochromatic looks.
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trending photographer Alexis Negrin Styling Heather Green Styling Assistant Manuela Echeverri & Maria Vitale Grooming Oscar Alexander Photo Assistant Alex Pinero Model Reece Harold at OMEGA
CASUAL
With our sunny days fleeting, add a hit of bright orange to zest up any outfit. Feeling brave? Try pairing an in-season orange roll-neck with a navy suit for an instant hit. Or if that’s too much zest in one go, try adding orange accessories to brighten up a neutral outfit.
NORTHSKULL GREY & GOLD LEATHER CUFF, £280.00 RRP (NORTHSKULL.COM)
M+RC NOIR ORANGE CAMO REVERSIBLE JACKET, £180.00 RRP (MRCNOIR.COM)
YMC WILD ONE’S ORANGE PAW PRINT TEE, £65.00 RRP (WWW.YOUMUSTCREATE.COM)
SCOTCH & SODA NAVY SUNRISE APPLIQUE SWEATSHIRT, £94.95 RRP (WWW.SCOTCH-SODA.COM)
Orange Parka SCOTCH & SODA £209,95 RRP Jumper BEAU HOMME £895,00 RRP Trousers BEAU HOMME £235,00 RRP Marges Trainer CAMPER £130,00 RRP Pemex Socks STANCE £10,95 RRP Belt Bag EASTPAK £40,00 RRP
Bored of the changing weather?! Try out these trans-seasonal trends to put some shine back in your wardrobe, even on a cloudy day... 156
SPORT
SMART QUAY THE OXFORD TORTOISE SUNGLASSES, £45.00 RRP (WWW. QUAYAUSTRALIA.CO.UK)
SCOTCH & SODA ORANGE PALM PRINT SHORTS, £74.95 RRP (WWW. SCOTCH-SODA.COM)
QUAY THE OXFORD GREY & PINK SUNGLASSES, £45.00 RRP (WWW. QUAYAUSTRALIA.CO.UK)
PENROSE LONDON POCKET SQUARE, £50 RRP (PENROSE-LONDON.COM/)
K-WAY CLAUDE NEON ORANGE JACKET, £75 RRP (WWW.K-WAY.CO.UK)
R.M WILLIAMS SUEDE BELT, £75.00 RRP (INTL.RMWILLIAMS.COM)
BOY PLAIN SPORTY ORANGE LINED TROUSERS, £43.00 RRP (WWW. BOYPLAIN.COM) BOY LONDON BLACK LEATHER JACKET, £165.00 RRP (WWW.BOY-LONDON.COM)
Eagle Camo Jacket BOY LONDON £150,00 RRP Tag Tee onepiece £44.00 RRP Grey Trousers maison kitsune £122,00 RRP Gorka Trainer CAMPER £125,00 RRP Otay 2 Socks STANCE £10.95 RRP Lincoln Backpack forbes and lewis £120,00 RRP Black Cap Weekday £18,00 RRP
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Fan Print Shirt Scotch & Soda £74,95 RRP Trousers beau homme £235,00 RRP Spray Sandals Camper £99,00 RRP
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SPORT
CASUAL With the sleepwear trend still going strong this season, try adding in some silky elements for an easy wardrobe update. A silk pajama suit with slick white tee and trainers makes an instant bold look. Not there yet? Add some silk blend shorts to a causal look for a subtle nod to the bedroom trend.
UNO DE 50 LEATHER BRACELET, £79.00 RRP (WWW.UNODE50.COM)
QUAY MR BLACK GOLD FRONT SUNGLASSES, £45.00 RRP (WWW. QUAYAUSTRALIA.CO.UK)
BOY PLAIN, SIGNATURE STARRY JACKET, £92.00 RRP (WWW.BOYPLAIN.COM)
CAMPER MATCH SANDALS, £60.00 RRP
FILIPPA K WHITE SHORTS, £105 RRP MAISON KITSUNE 5P JACQUARD FOX CAP, £61 RRP (SHOP.KITSUNE.FR)
BOY PLAIN TANGERINE LIVING STAR SHIRT, £50.00 RRP (WWW.BOYPLAIN. COM)
WEEKDAY SHIRT, £35 RRP (SHOP. WEEKDAY.COM)
Paisley Lovely Bomber Scotch & Soda £199,95 RRP K Blue/Orange Chunky Sweater filippa £180,00 RRP Trousers weekday £45,00 RRP Hayward Black Waxed Suede Trainers Clae £90,00 RRP Backpack eastpack £40,00 RRP
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Suede Jacket beau homme £460,00 RRP Dark Black Technical Shorts GYMPHLEX £132,50 RRP Stadil RMX Low Trainers hummel uk £65,00 RRP Backpack eastpack £40,00 RRP Blue Cap weekday £12,00 RRP
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SMART BOY PLAIN SIGNATURE STARRY TROUSERS, £50.00 RRP (WWW.BOYPLAIN. COM)
NORTHSKULL BLACK & GOLD LEATHER CUFF, £280.00 RRP (NORTHSKULL. COM)
BOY PLAIN SIGNATURE STARRY COAT, £138.00 RRP (WWW.BOYPLAIN.COM)
FILIPPA K ADRIAN COTTON INTERLOCK WHITE TEE, £75.00 (WWW. FILIPPA-K.COM)
Purple Diamond Blazer moss bros £129,00 RRP Tag Tee onepiece £44,00 RRP Laurent Navy & Maroon Striped Shorts SAMSØE & SAMSØE £139,95 RRP Paddington Backpack, FORBRES & LEWIS £98,00 RRP Nixie Trainer camper £130,00 RRP
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ESTEE LAUDER DAY WEAR MULTI-PROTECTION SPF15, £42,00 (50ml)
ESTEE LAUDER ENLIGHTEN EVEN EFFECT SKINTONE CORRECTOR SPF30, £35,00 (30ml)
SKINCARE Sun protection Written by Luis de Oliveira
After a long period of sun deprivation, everything we ask from summer is to be unforgettable! From new formulations to special rituals, your S.O.S. beauty arsenal for a sunny day is here! In general, the basis of sun protection to everyone is a great hydration, wide range filters to sun rays, high SPF (sun protection factor) sunscreen & the miraculous thermal water. If you have a very sensitive skin, a mineral sunscreen will be your best lover under these hot times. Also, don’t forget: in order to spread your charm on the beach or anywhere during this summer, you must apply the cream 30 minutes before you leave your home. Great excuse for a quick relaxing massage, right?!
BULL DOG
PROTECTIVE MOISTURISER SPF15, £8,00 (100ml)
BIOTHERM HOMME
UV DEFENSE HIGHT PROTECTION FLUID SPF50, £30,00 (30ml)
SPF5 ml)
,50 (100ml
SPF21, £25
(100
SPF15, £43,00 (100ml)
5,00
SUN PROTECT SERUM SPF50, £35,00 (100ml)
SPF35, £38,00 (50ml)
0, £4
FIT SKINCARE
)
SCARAMOUCHE+FANDANGO HYDRATOR,
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£10,00 (100ml)
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THE cent S
Written by Luís de Oliveira Ilustration by Raul Viera.
CK
r e m m u S e n O
Summer festivals, Long Nights & Spicy Sunrises are just right with the 2017 edition of Ck One Summer! This season, Ck One Summer just reborn from the ashes with a spicy freshness full of energy from saffron and citric notes from lime, lemon, while played with cucumber posing as a wave that makes the desert look like an oasis full of summer parties. This party wouldn’t be complete without a guaiac wood accord and creamy musk composing the base notes. Well, let’s enjoy the sunrise?
r e i t l u a G l Jean Pau
LE MALE SUPERMAN EAU FRAICHE
Looking to be a superhero?! If so, this is for you! Jean Paul Gaultier presents to us this 2017 limited edition that willbust your life while taking way all the bad moods through the notes of neroli, mint and aldehydes. As it wasn’t enough, this perfume is paved with sensual notes of sage, tonka bean, sandalwood and vanilla. Ready to slip into that kind of life?!
JOOP! HOMME Let’s play a game?!
Sport
This fragrance is for the sports lovers that like to play under the sun rays while doing charming moves to the audience. It has a very fresh collection of top notes as bergamot, mint and ginger orchestrated with heart notes of blossom, leather, aquatic notes and a sea salt that makes this perfume an essential summer ‘accessory’. To make everything even stronger, tonka bean - a coumarin - is placed in this manly formula.
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E Y E
BIOTHERM HOMME
TOTAL RECHARGE EYE SHOT £17,50 (15ml)
CLARINSMEN
LINE-CONTROL EYE BALM £33,00 (20ml)
CARE
ESTEE LAUDER
ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR £36,00 (Pack of 4)
Wtion, hen it comes to dermatological facial prevenusually, young people lack in creams specific to eye care. Like that, most of our life the products that we apply over our skin does not have any or too little effect because of many physiologic, anatomic and product related reasons. As the years cross by our face, we realise that many problems can affect the orbital eye region. From fatigue eyes to wrinkles, the prevention since your 27th anniversary is a mandatory ritual. To do it right, always remember that the eye area is the most sensitive area of the face, having also special characteristics. Therefore, there are specific creams that must be applied from the innermost to the outermost part of the eye orbit. After doing it, you are ready to apply the other facial creams. Easy, right?!
ESTEE LAUDER
REVITALIZING SUPREME+ £40,00 (8ml)
LAB SERIES
DAILY MOISTURE DEFENSE EYE BALM £24,50 (.5oz)
BULL DOG
ORIGINAL EYE ROLL-ON £9,99 (15ml)
FIT SKINCARE EYEDRATE + £50,00 (20ml)
of 6)
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£ 4 7 , 5 0 (Pa ck
£25,00 (15ml)
£25,
00 (1
5ml)
Written by Luis de Oliveira
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STOCKIST Accessorize - uk.accessorize.com Acne Studios - www.acnestudios.com Adidas - www.adidas.co.uk Afield - www.afield.uk Agi and Sam - www.agiandsam.com Alex Mullins - www.alexmullins.co.uk Ali Ekmekci - www.ekmekci.co.uk Ana Locking - www.analocking.com Anderson - www.anderson.it Armand basi - www.armandbasi.com Ashley Isham - www.ashleyisham.co.uk Asics - www.asics.com Asos - www.asos.com Beau Homme - www.beau-homme.com Belstaff - www.belstaff.com Berthold - www.berthold-uk.com Biotherm - www.biotherm.com Boardies - www.boardiesapparel.com Bobby Abley - www.bobbyabley.co.uk Boldking - www.boldking.co.uk Borgioli - www.borgiolishoes.it Boy London - www.boy-london.com Balenciaga - www.balenciaga.com Boy Plain - www.boyplain.com Bull Dog - www.bulldogskincare.com Burberry - www.burberry.com Calvin Klein - www.calvinklein.co.uk Calzedonia - www.calzedonia.com Camper - www.camper.com Cartier - www.cartier.co.uk Christina ioannidou - www.christinaioannidou.com Circle of Gentlemen - www.circleofgentlemen.nl Clae - www.clae.eu Clarins - www.clarins.co.uk Clarks - www.clarks.co.uk Clinique - www.clinique.co.uk Cole Haan - www.colehaan.com Comme des Garçons - www.comme-desgarcons.com Cool way - coolway.com Craig Green - www.craig-green.com David Catalán – www.davidcatalan.es Demo - www.demo-fashion.com Diesel - www.diesel.com Diliborio - www.diliborio.it Dior - www.dior.com Docker - www.dockers.com Dolce&Gabbana - www.dolcegabbana.com Dos Studio - www.dos-studio.com Dr. Martens - www.drmartens.com
Drifters - www.drifter.com Duke and Dexter - www.dukeanddexter.com Eastpak - www.eastpak.com Elemis - www.elemis.com English Hatter - www.english-hatter.nl Episode - www.episode.eu Estee Lauder - www.esteelauder.co.uk FIT Skincare - www.fitskincare.co.uk Falken - www.falke.com Fendi - www.fendi.com Filippa K - www.filippa-k.com For ever 21 - www.forever21.com Forbes & Lewis - www.forbesanlewis.com Formal Friday - www.formalfridayclothing.com Fratelli Rossetti - www.fratellirossetti.com Garcia Madrid – www.garciamadrid.com Genuins – www.genuins.com Glassworks - www.glassworks-studios.com Gucci - www.gucci.com Gymphlex - www.gymphlex.co.uk H&M - www.hm.com Happy socks - www.happysocks.com Heaven & Harland - www.heaven&harland.com Hudson - www.hudsonshoes.com Huf x Thrasher - www.hufworldwide.com Hugo Boss - www.hugoboss.com Hummel - www.hummel.net Hugo Boss - www.hugoboss.com Hunky Dory - hunkydoryvintage.com IA London - www.ialondon.com JW Anderson - www.j-w-anderson.com Jean Paul Gaultier - www.jeanpaulgaultier.com Jeepers Peepers - www.jeeperspeepers.co.uk Joop! - www.joop.com Julius Reuben London - www.juliusreuben.com K&K Labs - www.kklabs.co.uk K-WAY - www.k-way.co.uk KTZ - www.k-t-z.co.uk Kangol - www.kangol.com Kenzo - www.kenzo.com Koji Horigome LAB Series - www.labseries.co.uk Lee Cooper - www.leecooper.com Les Basics - www.lesbasics.net Levi’s - www.levi.com Liam Hodges - www.liamhodges.co.uk Libertine Libertine - www.libertine-libertine.com Loro Piana - www.loropianana.com Lyppens - www.lyppens.nl Luar - www.luar.io M+RC Noir - www.mrcnoir.com MRTN : KJSR - www.mrtnkjsr.com
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Maison Kitsune - www.shop.kitsune.fr Versace - www.versace.com Maison Margiela - www.maisonmargiela.com Vici - www.vici-life.co.uk Mauro Grifoni - www.maurogrifoni.com We are Lovers - www.wearelovers.nl Max Mara - es.maxmara.com Weber Hodel Feder - www.weberhodelfeder.com Miu Miu - www.miumiu.com Weekday - www.weekday.com Monsoon - uk.monsoon.co.uk Wellman - www.vitabiotics.com/wellman Moschino - www.moschino.com Wesc - www.wearethesuperlativeconspiracy.com Moss Bros - www.moss.co.uk Wood Wood - www.woodwood.com Nanamica - www.nanamica.com Wrangler - www.wrangler.es Native Youth - www.native-youth.com Willy Chavarria - www.willychavarria.com Nike - www.nike.com YMC - www.youmustcreate.com Northskull – www.northskull.com Zara - www.zara.com Nosomnia - www.nosomnia.dk ONEPIECE - www.onepiece.com Our Legacy - www.ourlegacy.se Palace - www.palaceskateboards.com Palladium - www.palladiumboots.com Palomo Spain - www.palomospain.com Paul Smith - www.paulsmith.com Penrose London - www.penrose-london.com Popular Science - www.Thepopularscience.com Prada - www.prada.com Pyrrha - www.pyrrha.com Qasimi - www.qasimi.com Quay - www.quayaustralia.co.uk R.M Williams - www.intl.rmwilliams.com Raf Simons - www.rafsimons.com RagYard - www.ragyard.com Ralph Lauren - www.ralphlauren.com Ray-Ban - www.ray-ban.com Remus Uomo - www.remusuomo.com Rick Owens - www.rickowens.eu ST-HENRI - www.sthenrilibrary.com Samsoe Samsoe - www.samsoe.com Scaglione - www.scaglione.it Scaramouche + Fandango - www.scaramoucheandfandango.com Schott NYC - www.schottnyc.com Scotch and Soda - www.scotch-soda.com Soulland - www.soulland.com Stance - www.parlourskatestore.co.uk Stance - www.urbanindustry.co.uk Steve Jin - www.steve-jin.com TOPMAN - www.topman.com Takara Wong - www.takarawong.com Ted Baker - www.tedbaker.com Toga - www.toga.jp Tommy Page - www.tommypage.nl Tourne de transmission - www.tournedetransmission.com Umbro - www.umbro.co.uk Underground England - www.underground-shop.co.uk Uno de 50 - www.unode50.com Velvet Eccentric - www.velvet-eccentric.co.uk
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