Hack Your Beauty Hormones

WRITTEN BY KRISTINA IOANNOU

Hormone levels change as we age – rising when we’re children, peaking during puberty (the horror) and declining in our 30s and 40s. Then there are those time-of-the-month breakouts, pigmentation (known as melasma) when you’re pregnant, and patches of sensitive skin as you go through menopause. Safe to say, hormones don’t always perform how they should – or at least how we would like them to – impacting the quality of our skin, hair and body. Here’s how to find the balance and reclaim your glow.

Think of your body like a Fortune 500 company. There are layers of management, countless systems that must work together seamlessly, and tons of goals that occasionally conflict. It’s complicated.

Thankfully, you don’t have to think much about it, because your hormones – chemical messengers that travel throughout the body – do most of the heavy lifting. They control many of the body’s crucial functions including mood, health, behaviour and fertility, while many organs take direction from them including the brain, skin, heart, kidneys, liver, bone, muscles and all endocrine glands within the body.

However, when hormones are out of balance or start to decline, they do have the ability to generate unwanted symptoms.

“Hormonal decline can lead to a vicious cycle of symptoms such as sagging skin, poor muscle tone, lowered ability to heal and repair, reduced hair growth, loss of bone density, loss of libido, sleep disturbances, body aches, fatigue, low mood, brain fog, cognitive decline, metabolic disorder, lowered immune response and an increased risk of disease,” explains Dr Natasja Fox (DOM), ACNEM Clinical Nutrition. It’s a bit like music played in a beautiful but sometimes discordant symphony. When hormones play too loud or soft, too fast or slow, and don’t coordinate with the others, the sound produced may be jarring to the system. It doesn’t help that in today’s modern world, natural hormone balance is becoming increasingly compromised by factors such as extreme stress, exposure to harmful chemicals and Westernised diets.

That’s why taking your understanding and awareness of hormonal health to the next level is essential.

“Controlling your stress levels and how you respond to stress is imperative for healthy hormonal ageing, as well as having a light hand when it comes to caffeine, alcohol, stimulants and sugar,” says Dr Fox.

Meditation, sleep, rest and mindful yoga are some other excellent ways to keep hormones cool, calm and collected, she adds.

Bioidentical hormone replacement can also be used short term – especially for those going through premature menopause – but will not treat the root cause of the imbalance. “You must test your hormones with a health-trained professional and not make assumptions about what you think is out of balance,” warns Dr Fox.

Though it can be difficult to combat a hormone-induced skin problem, it’s certainly not impossible. There are things we can do every day, all year around, to support our female hormone health and be stronger, glowing, super versions of ourselves as we age.

Here are five primary hormones that impact our appearance and how we can ensure they are balanced for radiant and youthful-looking skin, lustrous hair and strong nails.

THE HORMONE: OESTROGEN

WHAT IS IT? The primary female sex hormone, which is primarily produced by the ovaries. It not only plays a crucial role in the menstrual cycle and fertility, but also supports everything from bone density to mood regulation.

THE BEAUTY LINK: Oestrogen is associated with increased collagen production, skin thickness, skin hydration, wound healing, and improved barrier function. Maintaining adequate oestrogen levels offers some degree of protection against skin photoageing and helps produce healthy sebum – an oily, thick substance that naturally lubricates your skin.

THE BEAUTY IMBALANCE: A 2017 study by the Department of Dermatology in the Netherlands found that two out of five women reported more sensitive skin around the time of menstruation, which researchers suspected could be due to low levels of oestrogen during this phase. The study also reported that a third of postmenopausal and perimenopausal women also noted increased skin sensitivity after menopause — the time when oestrogen levels decrease. Another sign of oestrogen imbalance is excess sebum production. “For some women, sebum may produce a healthy glow on the skin, whereas in other women it may cause premenstrual acne as the skin pores become clogged due to the excess oil along with dirt and dead skin cells,” explains Dr Fox.

TREATMENT PLAN: To maintain optimal levels of oestrogen balance, Dermal Therapist and Director of HÜD Skin + Body, Gry Tømte (hud.com.au) says you must eat sufficient protein and green leafy vegetables, and high amounts of Omega 3, 6, 7, and 9, while making sure your gut is functioning optimally so it can absorb nutrients. Dr Michele Squire, PhD, BSc (Hons), BBus, RN, says that it’s equally important to support oestrogen-deprived skin with the right topical products. “These include a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser and moisturiser that respect and improve the skin barrier without irritation, along with performance ingredients such as vitamin A, vitamin C, and vigilant sun protection,” she says.

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THE HORMONE: PROGESTERONE

WHAT IS IT? Progesterone is vital to regulating your sleep cycle, and boosting immunity and brain function. Also produced by the ovaries, progesterone is a sex hormone that rises during the middle of the menstrual cycle and is released in high amounts at ovulation and just after.

THE BEAUTY LINK: Alongside aiding in the production of sebum, progesterone helps to stimulate collagen production in the skin. Collagen is the main protein in our skin that prevents wrinkles, as it maintains skin elasticity.

THE BEAUTY IMBALANCE: Many women will experience fluctuations of progesterone throughout their life. An imbalance of this hormone can lead to symptoms classically associated with ageing, such as poor sleep, mood swings and foggy thinking. “Progesterone will also decline when a woman stops ovulating due to stress, disease, low BMI or excess muscle tissue,” says Dr Fox. During menopause there is a decrease in progesterone. “This drop can lead to dry skin conditions, such as eczema, caused by a reduction in oil production and barrier defence system,” says Tømte.

TREATMENT PLAN: “Having a healthy 27 to 32-day menstrual cycle is vital to maintain healthy progesterone levels,” says Dr Fox. Progesterone levels may also be supported with stress management and adequate sleep. Incorporating foods high in vitamin E and zinc, such as sesame seeds, can similarly assist in distributing nutrients the body needs to produce progesterone. “As the skin gets drier and lacks volume, we must supplement it with essential fatty acids to maintain a healthy barrier function and sufficient levels of interstitial fluid in the cells, which is what keeps the skin full of bounce and volume,” says Tømte.

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THE HORMONE: TESTOSTERONE

WHAT IS IT? The body needs this crucial hormone to develop lean muscle mass, burn fat and boost libido. While it’s made in the testes in men, a woman’s ovaries also release small amounts of testosterone into the bloodstream.

THE BEAUTY LINK: Testosterone attaches to hair cells and plays a major role in stimulating hair growth, especially on the face. According to Dr Fox, healthy levels of testosterone help maintain skin thickness, which can prevent the formation of wrinkles and lines.

THE BEAUTY IMBALANCE: “Women who exercise too much can lose their period and experience skin breakouts as muscle holds more testosterone and throws out the balance of sex hormones in the body,” says Dr Fox. She adds that women who are experiencing excess hair on their jawline should investigate an imbalance in their testosterone levels and their Sex Hormone Binding Globulin (SHBG) – a protein made in the liver that binds to excess testosterone and oestrogen and can lead to hormonal acne. According to Tømte, high consumption of dairy and refined sugar spikes a hormone called IGF-1, which increases inflammation in the body. “This converts testosterone into Dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which is bad news for anyone with acne, rosacea or eczema as it can cause flare-ups,” she says.

TREATMENT PLAN: According to Dr Fox, anything that helps regulate SHBG and testosterone levels – such as maintaining healthy weight levels and reducing sugar, alcohol, caffeine, pharmaceutical and illicit drug use – can help clear up testosterone-related breakouts and acne.

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THE HORMONE: THYROID

WHAT IS IT? Produced by the thyroid gland, it keeps the body in balance by regulating functions such as breathing, heart rate, metabolism, and body temperature. which can cause them to shrink or disappear entirely, leading to female pattern baldness. Hyperpigmentation, vascular conditions such as broken capillaries, and general redness are also signs of overactive thyroid, according to Tømte. When our blood sugar levels elevate insulin and cortisol in the body it dramatically affect thyroid function, she says.

THE BEAUTY LINK: The health of your thyroid is said to predominantly play into the appearance of your hair and skin.

THE BEAUTY IMBALANCE: Too much of the thyroid hormone causes the skin to become thin and inflamed leading to rashes, redness, and eczema, whereas an underactive thyroid can cause the skin to appear very dry and rough, and covered with fine, flaky patches. While the body naturally loses and replaces hair over time, an unhealthy thyroid can boost DHT levels. Dihydrotestosterone is known for attacking hair follicles, TREATMENT PLAN: “Controlling our stress levels and how we deal with stress is vital for healthy skin and healthy thyroid function,” says Dr Fox. Research is proving that just 20 minutes of daily meditation is one of the most potent practices for down-regulating the stress response, rebalancing cortisol, and helping to maintain healthy blood sugar levels. Cutting out a inflammatory foods – such as gluten, dairy and nightshade vegetables – may also help to ease symptoms. Upping B vitamins and magnesium supps can help to protect and support the thyroid.

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THE HORMONE: DHEA

WHAT IS IT: The least well known of hormones, but no less important, DHEA – otherwise known as DHT – is a hormone precursor, which means that it helps to set off the reaction that will produce other hormones, such as testosterone and estrogen.

THE BEAUTY LINK: Commonly termed the ‘youth hormone’, DHEA plays a major role in preventing numerous agerelated conditions, including cognitive decline and warding off weight gain as we age, and is vital to maintaining youthful-looking skin. DHEA affects skin elasticity due to its significant role in collagen production, while it decreases the production of the collagenase enzymes that destroy collagen. “DHEA also increases the production of sebum in the skin that maintains a bright and line-free complexion,” says Dr Fox. THE BEAUTY IMBALANCE: Excess production of DHEA during periods of high stress or inflammation will cause acne breakouts like all the other sex hormones. Around your mid to late 20s, DHEA begins a gradual decline, which contributes to the ageing process. By the age of 70, you’ll likely have less than 10 per cent of the DHEA you had in your 20s. Gulp.

TREATMENT PLAN: “Maintaining a healthy body mass index (BMI) via a healthy diet and regular exercise, which isn’t extreme in nature, will help balance your DHEA levels,” says Dr Fox. Eat a gut-friendly and anti-inflammatory diet free of highly processed foods and rich in healthy fats, lean protein and probiotics. Therapy with DHEA can also be helpful in treating auto immune and chronic skin disorders – although, in some cases, it may be more effective to replace testosterone or oestrogen to correct imbalances.

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BEAUTY BALANCING ACT

Even though hormonal flare-ups come from within, how you treat your outsides still seriously counts.

“Having regular facials can help remove grease, dirt, grime and excess build-up of sebum from the pores of the skin to prevent breakouts,” says Dr Fox. “Micro-needling can spur the production of new collagen and elastin fibres that thicken the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles, acne scarring, and sun damage.”

Chemical peels are another way to help revitalise the skin surface by creating an even and controlled shedding of the skin cells. Although Dr Fox warns against overexfoliating. “Harsh exfoliants and peels can remove the acid mantle layer of the skin leaving the skin vulnerable to infection,” she says.

As for laser treatments, these use light, ultrasound or radiofrequency to tighten or resurface the skin and may be able to assist in the production of new collagen.

To combat acne, Dr Squire recommends vitamin A derivatives (either topically or orally) to reduce sebaceous gland activity. “Skincare should focus on products with ingredients that regulate sebum production (niacinamide), reduce bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid) and unclog pores (beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid),” she says.

“Look at gut function, nutrition, diet and other lifestyle factors that may be triggering an otherwise manageable hormonal condition,” adds Tømte, whose Melbourne-based clinic includes an onsite naturopath and advice from dermatologists and endocrinologists if needed.

Remember, there’s no ‘one size fits all’ method to treating hormonal flare-ups – and not all hormones are created equally – so you may have to tweak your beauty and wellness routine until you find something that works for you. S