Branding and visual communication: for Ulyana sergeenko

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Ulyana Sergeenko Spring/Summer 2014

Alida Husby BA hons fashion marketing and communication Level 5, 2013/2014 MIED 506 bafm 001 Representation techniques 2 Computer tools 2 CWK 4 Nicolas Godon


Index Analysis

Editorial

Page

Corporate profile

7

Editorial brief

17

Market position

8

Stylist & stylism

17

Now

8

Models, make-up and hair

18 - 19

Spring / summer 2014

9

Photography, art direction &

18 - 19

retouching

20 - 21

Communication background

10 - 11

Communication task “the message“

12

Location, page layout

20

Target market

12

Lookbook

34

Objectives

13

Website

54

Where to look for inspiration What not to do

4

Page

14 - 15 16


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corporate profile The brand Ulyana Sergeenko, named after the designer herself was founded in Moscow in the late spring of 2010. Sergeenko is part of the new wave of beautiful, super-stylish Russians omnipresent on the fashion scene. Born in Kazakhstan when it was still a part of the USSR, she moved with her father, who owned a ceramics factory, and mother, an English teacher, to St. Petersburg after the fall of the Soviet Union. Her fashion training started as young girl, but more out of necessity than frivolity (Nytimes.com, 2012).

Together with her business partner Frol Brumskiy, they focus on integrating the love for couture, Russian heritage and the modern woman. “I just want to be a Russian designer. We have a very rich culture. I would love to show the entire world what great history we have. It is a never-ending story. I can take and take and take; we have really a lot of things to take from our history”. (Style.com, 2012). With above 70 employees the high end and exclusive couture collections are designed and produced entirely in Russia.

“All my life I was absolutely crazy about nice, beautiful things. Maybe it is because of my grandmother. I had a Soviet childhood, and it was difficult to buy some things. My grandmother made dresses for me. She used all her sources to make me beautiful. I was well known in school because I would always change the designs. I loved to wear, for example, a dress with trousers, something a bit different. I broke the rules. So in a way I was born in couture.” (Style. com, 2012).

es two collections a year, spring/summer and fall/ winter, which consists of clothing and accessories such as gowns, skirts, shirts, hats, etc.

Today the brand produc7


ANALYSIS

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market position

now

Ulyana Sergeenko is positioned in the high-end segment of the luxury market and balances the concepts of tradition and modernity. To retain the image set, the brand concentrates on exclusive points of sales, high price (which is only given upon request), and additional attributes, such as showroom locations, that together create a higher value for potential customers. The clothing is difficult to acquire and is made to measure with a minimum of ten fittings. The focus on high quality materials and details through the craftsmanship has made the brand a go-to brand for international celebrities and socialites, such as Dita von Teese, Natalia Vodianova & Pace Wu. The products are currently only available through the showroom in Moscow, however each season the collection is showed during the prestigious Paris Couture Fashion Week. When all factors and attributes are merged the products can be described as exclusive, luxurious and unique.

Appose to the majority of couture fashion houses with a strong presence, long history and heritage, Ulyana Sergeenko is a relatively newly founded brand, hence has less experience and less wide spread presence outside of Europe. Therefore Ulyana Sergeenko will expand to a city considered to be a fashion capital of the world, New York City. The opening of the showroom in Manhattan will be in relation with the launch of their Spring/summer 2014 collection, therefore a communication proposal to support this action will support this action.


spring

/ summer 2014

Continuing her ongoing exploration of the narrative powers of couture, for her fourth collection Ulyana Sergeenko embarks on a magical journey into the world of the unknown. The expansion overseas to New York City is a new source of inspiration. As she turns adventures into dresses, enjoying the liberating sense of possibility and surprise offered by travel through both time and space, Ulyana layers memories and impressions of city life into a fantasy world of her own. Like a story taking turns as new characters step into the plot, new cultures are discovered and new landscapes reveal themselves. Silhouettes and shapes follow narrative whims with tangible lightness. Strong, uplifting, soft and spontaneous, the collection draws on an imaginary trip to New York City’s five different boroughs. The modern femme fatale protagonist on the journey is a heroine whose strength comes from the air of the journeys freedom and whose mystery is fueled by the endless

promise of surprising people, streets and art. The mood is nonchalant elegant, urban and classic, the strong contrast gives the collection a modern twist. Light fabrics, embroideries, khalats and oversized garments emphasize the sophisticated image in a natural merging of East and West, strong and soft, masculine and feminine. Clothes keep an air of spontaneity: forms materialize almost casually around the body whilst the waist is accurately nipped; volumes are short and long, elated in spirit and improvised, or fluid and natural. Gowns flow naturally into trains. The gesture of wrapping oneself into something unique and customized is constantly expressed. The color palette is emotional, sensual and strong. With its innocent delicacy, the cotton flower recurs as a decorative element on embroideries and accessories. Fringing, quilting and hand dyeing add preciousness. With sense of possibility, Ulyana Sergeenko celebrates the wonderful powers of travel, city lifestyle, heritage and the contrasting uplifting effects on culture and spirit. 9


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communication background Ulyana Sergeenko focuses on both specific online and offline communication efforts including fashion shows, social media and lookbooks. The communicational efforts have different purposes, where the lookbook and fashion show despite the feeling and mood of the different collections, products themselves and the brands values. The social media shows insights to the brand and designers life, inspiration and lifestyle and offers additional information to the viewer. The visual and corporate identity related to the brand and communicational efforts can be described as classic, feminine and glamorous. Magazine editorials and celebrity endorsement are also part of the brand-communication, however not always designed and paid for by the brand, hence the control over those messages are reduced. “Now, we are getting a lot of requests from celebrities. But for me, they’re all equal. It’s a great honor, but it’s not a contract; it’s not something commercial, it’s love.” (Style.com, 2012). The color pallet is a mix between red, navy & black, as well as soft and delicate colors. The color red signifies the link to Russian heritage, whilst the soft and delicate colors can be associated with concepts of luxuriousness, elegance & femininity. The background plays a central role in the imagery used outside of the social media platforms. It becomes part of the mood and created associations and signs. 11


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the message

target market

The message of the brand sent through their previous communication is clearly related to the values and origin of the brand. The message of Ulyana Sergeenko is not stated as a written element, in for example a tagline, however through the imagery. The lookbooks are elegant and clean, with focus on the fashion. Their Instagram images are behind the scene and personal - They try to transmit the philosophy & concept of the brand. “Luxurious, elegant and unique fashion with hints of Russian heritage.�

The primary target of Ulyana Sergeenko is located in the upper high class that spends money in the luxury market, women aging between 20 and 55 years, living in Europe, that are fashionable with an interest for high fashion. However there are multiple small sub targets, for example the celebrities. Although Ulyana Sergeenko has a small and loyal client base in Europe there is opportunity with her scheduled expansion to acquire new targets, such as upper high class women aging from 20 to 55 years living in America, that are fashionable and possesses an above the average interest for fashion.


objectives One of the goals of the brand and designer is to expand; this will create the foundation for this particular communication brief. Seeing that the brand will be opening a showroom in New York the main objectives will therefore be linked with the atmosphere and visual elements associated with New York City in a way that suits the brand.

Increase the growth of new followers in social media. Be featured in both bazaar and editorial sections of US based magazines.

Expand their presence and awareness in the US amongst intended targets Create awareness and desire amongst those who admire to buy.

Gain customers from outside Europe. 13


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inspiration The main sources of inspiration for the communication proposal are related to the current and past New York, the atmosphere, architecture, landmarks, New York based graphic designer Jose Guizar and culture. In addition some elements of the International Swiss style, which was developed in Switzerland in the mid 50s as a graphic design style. It emphasizes objectivity, cleanliness, structure and readability. The TV series Mad Men and Breakfast at Tiffany’s will also be sources of inspiration for atmosphere and culture. New York City is often described as a concrete jungle. The city has over 8,3 million inhabitants spread throughout the five very different boroughs: Manhattan, Staten Island, Brooklyn, The Bronx and Queens. The architectural buildings in New York City are famous and include different styles and time periods. From the skyscrapers like the Chrysler building, Empire State building to the brownstone houses found on the upper west side. “He adored New York City. He idolized it all out of proportion…no, make that: he – he romanticized it all out of proportion. Yes. To him, no matter what the season was, this was still a town that existed in black and white and pulsated to the great tunes of George Gershwin”. – Woody Allen

“New York remains what it has always been: a city of ebb and flow, a city of constant shifts of population and economics, a city of virtually no rest. It is harsh, black, strong, dirty and dangerous, it is whimsical, and fanciful, it is beautiful and soaring – it is not one or another of these things, but all of them, all at once, and fail to accept this paradox is to deny the reality of the city existence” – Paul Goldberger

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what not to do Merging Ulyana Sergeenko with certain elements explained in the inspirational part can be risky and reflect negatively on the brand if executed badly. It is important not to forget the visual identity and values of the brand. It is important to retain the elegance and classic look of the brand. It is important to produce something that will not be associated with something common, tourist like, cheap or vulgar. The editorial as a main section

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EDITORIAL brief of most magazines will transmit a story that is true to both the brands values and the current situation. The basic idea is to merge the brand with the classical idea of New York City in the late 50s. This will create a strong thematically element, hence the brand will subconsciously be linked to attributes such as clas-

sic, elegant and glamorous times of New York City. The use of this thematic can also implement suggestions related to that the brand has excised longer. The photographs should have a calming feeling of elegance and nostalgia, although including various situations throughout the New York City areas. Grace Coddington is the

stylist current creative director of American Vogue and would therefore be the ideal match for the editorial as one of the objectives is to be featured in American magazines. She knows what will work and how to make the best out of an idea. Her way to style thematically period set editorials is unique and she has a way of styling that incorporates the background of the image as well as the composition, models and artifacts in order to create a mood. 17


models, makeup

& hair

The models are essential as it is the main factor that determines the feel of the pictures, therefore the models chosen will have an American look, as well as nationality to create transparency. It is consistent with the current situation and objectives. Karlie Elizabeth Kloss will be the female model, whilst Garrett Neff and Chad White will be the male models. Pat McGrath recently became the creative director for P&G and is internationally known for her make-up and hair stylism. The makeup and hair for the male models will be very natural, however true to the era, which the editorial is set in. The makeup for Karlie Elizabeth Kloss will be more elaborated, reflect the image of an independent woman in New York City, true to the thematic elements. Since the editorial will be retouched and altered with layers, image adjustments, temperature and be close to black/white, it is important to enhance her natural bone structure of Karlie through makeup. Her hair should be shoulder length, light brown and be styled in a half up-do, creating a relaxed yet era sensitive hairdo. Her lisps should be red and her eyes with a dark focus.

photography, art direction

& retouching

Steven Meisel is the American fashion photographer who will be used for the editorial shoot and retouching. He is considered one of the most successful fashion photographers in the industry, who regularly works with both US and Italian Vogue. He is known in specific for his artful style and for his work with Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and Amber Valletta. Steven will also be in charge of the post work of the photo shoot, retouching and cropping. The photos will be saturated with -80, applied with a warming color filter and then infused additional noise in an extra grey layer (300%, Gaussian, Monochromatic) with the opacity set to 20%.

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location Various locations in New York City including the subway, streets, New York Library, Broadway and Grand Central Station will be used. The locations will play a key-part of the editorial and will include elements that are associated directly or indirectly with the New York City culture and atmosphere (For example the placement of the newspaper “New York Times�, iconic skyscrapers, street art in the subway and street signs). Since the location vary and mostly outside the lighting will be a key factor to consider, the inside locations will need additional artificial lighting, whilst the outdoor locations will need to be scheduled at the right time of day according to when the lighting is best suited.

page layout The page layout is not entirely up to a single person, but the creative team can suggest ideas and explain their vision. The editorial will include both single page and double spread images. The editorial will only include minimal text describing the clothing and small captions of the story, which will not be emphasized, hence the text is of low contrast to the imagery. In the preview the there are two double spread layouts featured on page 24-25 & 30-31, the other images are single page spreads. The solid black background is not part of the editorial; it is only used as a graphical element for the communication brief.

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EDITORIAL PREVIEW




Dress & shoes: Ulyana Sergeenko. Glows: Chanel couture. Price upon request



Dress & shoes: Ulyana Sergeenko. Glows: Chanel couture. Price upon request


Dress: Ulyana Sergeenko. Feather jewelry: Chanel couture. Price upon request







LOOKBOOK

idea

34

& function

A typical lookbook uses images with a grey or white background and is not typically meant for public release, however due to the nature of business Ulyana Sergeenko conducts the lookbook is used as a communicational tool for possible customers to refer and see fashion products as well. Therefore it is important that the lookbook, does not only show the clothing, but gives the viewer a more in-depth insights to the collection.

but give the information required. The typefaces used will be Helvetica Neue and Helvetica Narrow, in different weights and styles. These typefaces are strong, graphical, san-serif typefaces that are linked with both the International Swiss style and New York (The official typeface for public signs, like street signs, metro-signs etc.) The colors used in the lookbook will be minimal with exception of the images of clothing that will be as realistic as possible.

The lookbook however still needs to be clean and to the point. The idea for the lookbook of Ulyana Sergeenko’s Spring/summer 2014 collection is based on the common myth that New Yorkers value fashion so very high, whatever area they are from and no matter if they have purchasing power or not. Therefore the collection will be divided into the five different boroughs and each will be given an architectural element (window) that will be designed in a vector style graphic and thereafter cut out. The text will be limited,

The photographer of theses images will be Nick Sushkevich, who has previously shot the lookbook of Ulyana Sergeenko. The mood of the lookbook will be stronger and more urban than previous created ones, and include more graphical elements to emphasize the relationship with New York City.


S/S 2014





Ms. Greenwich USS0110 Organic cotton and wool

Hibiskus USS0210 Organic wool

Sky-chalk USS04002 Leather, wood & cotton


Ms. Perry

Sky-chalk

Ms. Conwell

Fifth Avenue

USS0111

USS04053

USS0110

USS04003

Organic organza

Leather, wood & cotton

Organic wool

Organic wool


Ms. Stafford

Sky-chalk

Ms. Parker

Mrs. Parket

USS0110

USS04053

USS0110

USS040111

Organic organza

Leather, wood & cotton

Organic wool

Silk





Ms. Upper West USS05002 Organic gossamer & silk


Ms. Hendreson

Sky-chalk

Ms. Shea

Fifth Avenue

Sky-chalk

USS0111

USS04222

USS0110

USS04002

USS04222

Organic cotton & wool

Leather, wood & cotton

Fur & organza

Organic wool

Leather, wood & cotton


Ms. James

Fifth Avenue

Ms. Burke

Fifth Avenue

USS0110

USS04003

USS0110

USS04004

Organic cotton & wool

Organic wool

Organic cotton & flax

Leather, wood & cotton





Ms. Soho USS0883 Organic cotton and wool


Ms. Russel

Sky-chalk

Ms. Smith

Brodway

Sky-chalk

USS0111

USS04222

USS0110

USS04002

USS04222

Organic cotton & wool

Leather, wood & cotton

Wool

Velvet

Leather, wood & cotton


Ms. Brown

Sky-chalk

Ms. Wilson

Mrs. Wilson

Sky-chalk

USS0110

USS04222

USS09822

USS04234

USS040223

Organic cotton & wool

Leather, wood & cotton

Organic cotton

Wool

Leather, wood & cotton


WEBSITE

function

& design

The mini-site for Ulyana Sergeenko’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection has one simple main function: to inform and supply additional in-depth information interesting to the viewers. It is divided into 4 static and non-static pages, where “about” has two sub-pages. The home page is the only non-static page functioning as a blog, with visual and short updates, such as quotes, “behind the scene” posts, short entries etc. An important part of the mini-site is the social media integration meant to enhance word-of-mouth and awareness. The design of the mini-site will be cohesive with the theme and current situation of Ulyana Sergeenko, hence the main colors are black and white (the highest contrast) and the typeface used is Helvetica Neue and Helvetica narrow.

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Mini-site url: www.ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com Issuu account: http://issuu.com/alidahusby Issuu link: http://issuu.com/alidahusby/docs/new_version


minisite page set-up

www.ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com Home The non-static page with the function as a blog, continuing updates and posts.

About

Inspiration

Ulyana Sergeenko x NYC (ss2014)

A purly visual and static page, where images that have been inspiration are posted in a gallery for enjoyment of the reader. There can be added more images to the gallery, however since it is only one function and not “posts“ it is still considered a static page.

Ulyana Sergeenko

Both static pages with in depth informration about the collection, designer and brand. The page “Ulyana Sergeenko x NYC“ has an embedded youtube video of the catwalk. Instead of only showing images, the video integrated sound and movement that layers the experience.

Contact This static page shows an image (visit-card) that can be enlarged when pressed. It gives information about the location of the new showroom, e-mails and telephone numbers.

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Page 15 Taxi and snow. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103727986 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Swiss style. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103728086 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Bleeker st. station Helvetica narrow. 2014. [image online] Available at: http:// www.stuffthatibought.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/New-York-Bleecker-St-Instagram.png [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Emire state building. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/ entry/103728396 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Windows brooklym. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/ entry/103728591 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Brooklyn bridge. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103728684 [Accessed: 27 Feb 2014]. Page 16 DKNY. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103728828 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Donna Karen nyc. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://www.wwd.com/ images/processed/wwd/2013/05/13/landscape/01-large/donna-karan-ad. jpg [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Page 17 Grace C. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103728828 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Grace Coddington stylism. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit. com/entry/103729344 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Page 18 Karlie. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103729561 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Karlie 2. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103729744 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. SM editorial shoot. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/ entry/103729881 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Steven meisel photo shoot 1. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103730027 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Page 19 Garrett neff. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://spanish.fansshare.com/ gallery/photos/10937901/garrett-neff-male-models-wallpaper/?displaying [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Garrett neff 2. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://www.listal.com/viewimage/2388318 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Chad white. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://www.malemodelscene. net/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Chad-White-by-Gregory-Vaughan-13.jpg [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. IT is a madcap SM. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/ entry/103730873 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014].


Page 21 NYC 1. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103731061 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. NYC2. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103731194 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Brooklyn bridge. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103728684 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. http://weheartit.com/entry/103731513 Subway. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103731603 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Page 23 Alida Husby. 2014. Editorial for Ulyana Sergeenko 1. Barcelona. Page 24 - 25 Alida Husby. 2014. Editorial for Ulyana Sergeenko 2. Barcelona. Page 26 Alida Husby. 2014. Editorial for Ulyana Sergeenko 3. Barcelona. Page 27 Alida Husby. 2014. Editorial for Ulyana Sergeenko 4. Barcelona. Page 28 Alida Husby. 2014. Editorial for Ulyana Sergeenko 5. Barcelona. Page 29 Alida Husby. 2014. Editorial for Ulyana Sergeenko 6. Barcelona. Page 30 -31 Alida Husby. 2014. Editorial for Ulyana Sergeenko 7. Barcelona. Page 32 Alida Husby. 2014. Editorial for Ulyana Sergeenko 8. Barcelona. Page 33 Alida Husby. 2014. Editorial for Ulyana Sergeenko 9. Barcelona. Page 35 Alida Husby. 2014. Ilustration . Barcelona. Page 37 Alida Husby. 2014. Ilustration . Barcelona. Page 39 Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 5. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Page 40 Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 6. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 7. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Page 41 Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 8. 2012. Photo. Moscow.

Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 9. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Page 43 Alida Husby. 2014. Ilustration . Barcelona. Page 45 Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 10. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Page 46 Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 11. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 12. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Page 47 Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 13. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 14. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Page 49 Alida Husby. 2014. Ilustration . Barcelona. Page 51 Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 15. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Page 52 Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 16. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 17. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Page 53 Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 18. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Ulyana Sergeenko Lookbook 19. 2012. Photo. Moscow. Page 56 Ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com. 2014. (no title). [online] Available at: http://ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Page 57 Ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com. 2013. Ulyana Sergeenko x NYC (SS 2014). [online] Available at: http://ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress. com/about-2/springsummer-2014/ [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Page 58 Ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com. 2013. Ulyana Sergeenko. [online] Available at: http://ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com/about-2/ulyana-sergeenk/ [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Page 59 Ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com. 2013. Inspiration. [online] Available at: http://ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com/inspiration/ [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Page 60 Ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com. 2014. Contact. [online] Available at: http://ulyanasergeenkoss2014.wordpress.com/contact/ [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014].


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Invitation. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://www.lavidadeserendipity. com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Ulyana-Sergeenko-Couture-Invitation.jpg [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. IT is a madcap SM. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/ entry/103730873 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Karlie 2. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103729744 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Karlie. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103729561 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014]. Marilyn nyc. 2014. [image online] Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/103727154 [Accessed: 17 Feb 2014].

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Oslo: Cappelen Damm Undervisning.


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