03
— 02
HAIRITAGE
4 CHAPTE RS OF HAIR AN D CULTURE
Lars Müller Publishers
HAIRITAGE
4 CHAPTE RS OF HAIR AN D CULTURE
Lars M端ller Publishers
All the photograph contained in this book are reproductions of stock images from Fotolia and Shutterstock that have been manipulated in Photoshop. This book was printed on RedRiver Blanco Matte Canvas. This is a student project only. No part of this book or any other part of the project was produced for commercial use. Copyright 息 2015 Lars M端ller Publishers All Rights Reserved. No parts of this publication may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the permission of the copy right holder. Lars M端ller Publishers GmbH Pfingstweidstrasse 6 CH-8005 Z端rich | info@lars-muller.ch | +41 44 274 37 40
To Leyla and Sahra.
Contents 1–Cultures Africa
p.
10
Diverse Style p.
18
2–Comb Conditioning p.
20
Comb is a ... p.
24
Page Break p.
26
CONTENTS
A Key Accessory p.
28 H A I R ITAG E
3 –Hair Care
4 –Hair Styles
Hair Care
Influence
p.
32
Market Size p.
34
A Booming Industry p.
36
p.
40
Page Break p.
42
Styles
p.
44
Intro Throughout history, INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
H A I R ITAG E
Throughout history, people have cared about their appearance and sought ways to personalize their looks or gain social rewards through grooming and self-adornment. Anthropologists believe that this desire to groom and beautify the body is an inherent part of being human. Throughout history, Men’s and women’s hair styles often have been quite different, and both have varied with the changing fashions. Certain styles have been regarded as “feminine” while others were viewed as “masculine,” which set the genders apart and enabled people to identify one another more easily. For thousands of years, in most cultures, women wore their hair longer than men’s. This changed in the twentieth century in western culture. In modern Times, as in the past, hair continues to serve a psychological role in most people’s lives and it provides a means of revealing cultural and social values. People use their hair for self-expression as well as a vehicle for gaining social acceptance. INTRODUCTION
SOCIAL MEANINGS OF HAIR
06
—
07
MODERN ATTITUDES
Chap CHAPTER 1
H A I R ITAG E
te 1 r
1–Cultures Africa
08
—
09
p.
10
Byzantine Empire p.
18
Place
p.
20
africa For thousands of years, people living in Africa have devoted time and attention to styling their hair, and some traditional styles are still worn today. Ancient hieroglyphs, sculptures, and masks reveal intricate and varied hairstyles worn by people in different regions of this large continent. Hair coverings do not appear on ancient sculptures and drawings, which may mean that hair was supposed to be visible AFRICA
CHAPTER 1
H A I R ITAG E
10
—
11
AFRICA
to other people. Hairpins, Beads Cowrie shells, colored cloth, flowers, and other objects have been used to adorn hair or symbolize particular stages of life or events. The Kwere of Tanzania made ornate hairpins. In Nigeria, the Ibo crafted wooden hair combs for grooming and styling their hair. AFRICA
beads Cowrie shells, flowers CHAPTER 1
H A I R ITAG E
12
—
13
HAIR
Source of power personified Hair also had a special spiritual significance in Africa.
Many African cultures saw the head as the center of control
CONTENT
H A I R ITAG E
Since the hair rests on the highest point on the body, hair itself was a means to communicate with divine spirits and it was treated in ways that were thought to bring good luck or ward off evil. AFRICA
that
02
—
03
the individual
CHAPTER 1
H A I R ITAG E
16
—
17
Diverse Style CHAPTER 1
H A I R ITAG E
Since ancient times, Hair dressers have enjoyed a high status in traditional African cultures, and hair-grooming time was sociable. In most communities, including those in Ghana and Senegal, hairdressers work only with members of their own gender. hairdressing, which might be done daily, involves cleansing, then combing, oiling, and styling into various braids, wraps, curls, twists, or other shapes, sometimes with decorative accessories. Braiding techniques in Africa. Certain braiding patterns are associated with religious occasions and other events in a person’s life, as well as everyday styles. For some styles, braids are arranged in intricate designs around the head. Sections of hair might form geometric shapes, such as triangles or quadrangles, at regular intervals, or the rows might be curved. Hair wrapping also produces complex designs. In some traditional hairstyles, women wrap a section of their hair from top to bottom with a thick thread and then arrange these sections around the face and head. Other wrapped styles, dating back centuries, are designed to stand upright from the head. DIVERSE STYLE
18
—
19
African cultures saw the head as the center of control.
CONDITIONING AND STYLING CHAPTER 1
H A I R ITAG E
Styling aids from animal facts, plants, and minerals date back to ancient times. Palm oil was a favorite aid for conditioning and styling. In central Africa, women used a mixture of ochre and animal fat to hold their hair in long cylindrical shapes. Tavo-a combination of honey and animal fat-has long been used as a fixative for curled braids in the Malagasy Republic (formerly Madagascar). The Nubians developed a type of ironing comb they used to make rows of tight coils around the head. CONDITIONING
20
—
21
OCHRE
h p C a CHAPTER 2
H A I R ITAG E
t 2 p er 2–Comb Comb is a ...
22
—
23
p.
24
Page Break p.
26
A Key Accessory p.
28
Comb is a... CHAPTER 2
H A I R ITAG E
24
—
25
COMB
The comb-a toothed implement made of solid material-has been a basic hair care tool since prehistoric times. The word “Comb” comes from ancient Indo-European words that mean “tooth” or “to bite.” Combs are used to clean that hair through mechanical action, as well as style the hair. They come in various sizes, styles, and materials but are almost always flat in shape. Special combs with wider teeth work better on thick, curly hair or tangled hair.
CHAPTER 2
H A I R ITAG E
26
—
27
A Key Accessory CHAPTER 2
H A I R ITAG E
Combs have played an important role in Western hairstyles, especially during the 1800s and early 1900s. Millions of women around the world wore their combs to adorn the long, up swept hair that was fashionable at that time. By 1900, the list of materials used to make combs included ivory, precious metals, pewter, aluminum, brass, tortoise, amber, coral, jet, bone, horn, and wood. During the Victorian and Edwardian eras, Some of the most coveted combs were made from sterling silver, tortoise shell, or gutta-percha, which came into use during the 1840s. Gutta-percha came from the sap of a tree found in Malaysia and was used to make furnishing and jewelry as well as hair accessories. Less expensive combs made from animal horn were also common. The development of celluloid, enabled companies to keep up with the demand for hair combs.
A KEY ACCESSORY
Combs have played an important role in the west.
28
—
29
A KEY ACCESSORY
3
Cah
t
p CHAPTER 3
H A I R ITAG E
e
3 –Hair Care Hair Care
30
—
31
p.
32
Market Size p.
34
A Booming Industry p.
36
Hair Grooming, styling, adorning, and removing hair have been common practices in all societies since the beginning of the recorded history. For example, two statuettes from the ice ages, known as the Venus of Willendorf and the Venus of Brassempouy, show evidence of HAIR CARE
CHAPTER 3
H A I R ITAG E
32
—
33
Care deliberate hairstyling. Through excavation and exploration, scientists have found pictures, artifacts, and writings dating back thousands of years, proving people around the world cared about the length, texture, color, growth, style, and loss of their hair.
CHAPTER 3
H A I R ITAG E
$100 B
Size of the global
$80.0 B
$60.0 B Market size in billion U.S. Dolors
$40.0 B
34
—
35
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
hair care
2021
To groom their hair, people have been willing to spend time, energy, and money, as well as endure lengthy and uncomfortable procedures. They have hunted down elusive reptiles or plants to obtain hair-care ingredients. HAIR CARE
A Booming Industry CHAPTER 3
H A I R ITAG E
Styling Grooming People have plucked out masses of hair with calm shells, sat under hot machines wearing tightly wound metal rods, borne two-foot tall wigs on their heads, used chemicals that burned the scalp, and undergone surgical procedures, to name a few methods.
36
—
37
Adorning
CONTENT
H A I R ITAG E
4 –Hair Styles Influence
02
—
03
p.
40
Page Break p.
42
Styles
p.
44
Influence of new hair styles CHAPTER 4
H A I R ITAG E
40
—
41
During the seventeenth century, Europeans wore long INFLUENCE wigs and beards, so the comb become even more important for grooming. In fact, people began to routinely use large combs in public. In restoration England, especially during the reign of King Charles II, Men kept a comb in their pocket and could be seen combing their hair at the theaters or in people’s homes. These combs were made from wood, animal horn, ivory, bone, and tortoise, and they came in different styles designed for natural hair, wigs, or beards. Some men with light-colored beards used combs made from lead since these were thought to impart a more fashionable darker shade. Centuries earlier, the Romans had found that they could create a liquid dye for grey hair by dipping a lead comb in vinegar.
Liquid Dye
S CHAPTER 4
H A I R ITAG E
42
—
43
Dread Locks
CHAPTER 4
H A I R ITAG E
44
—
45
Bun
CHAPTER 4
H A I R ITAG E
46
—
47
Bangs
CHAPTER 4
H A I R ITAG E
48
—
49
BIBLIOGRAPHY
INTRODUCTION 06 – 07
COMB IS A ... 24 – 25
Enc yclopedia of Hair: A Cultural Histor y By Vic toria Sherrow, 2006
Hair: St yling, Culture and Fashion By Sarah Cheang, 2009
AFRICA 10 – 13
A KE Y ACCESSORY 28 – 29
Enc yclopedia of Hair: A Cultural Histor y, Africa By Vic toria Sherrow, 2006
Hair: St yling, Culture and Fashion By Sarah Cheang, 2009
DIVE RSE ST YLES 18 – 19 Hair in African Ar t and Culture (African, A sian & Oceanic Ar t) By Roy Sieber, Frank Herreman 2003
CONDITIONING 20 – 21 Hair Stor y: Untangling the Root s of Black Hair in America By Ayana Byrd, Lori Tharps, 2002
BIBLIOGRAPHY
H A I R ITAG E
HAIR CARE 32 – 33
DRE AD LOCKS 44 – 45
Hair Stor y: Untangling the Root s of Black Hair in America By Ayana Byrd, Lori Tharps, 2002
Fotolia.com, Web, 2015
SIZE OF THE GLOBAL MARKET 34 – 35
BUN , BANGS 46 – 49
statista.com, Web, 2015
Fotolia.com, Web, 2015
A BOOMING INDUSTRY 36 – 37 Fashions in Hair: The First Five Thousand Years By Richard Corson, 2005
INFLUE NCE 40 – 41
50
—
51
Enc yclopedia of Hair: A Cultural Histor y By Vic toria Sherrow, 2006
Designed by Alireza Jajarmi Copyright Š 2015 Lars Mßller Publishers All Rights Reserved. The running text is set in Utopia Std by Adobe The Headings are set in Archer by Tobias Frere-Jones and Jonathan Hoefler. Proxima Nova by Mark Simonson Studio is the other typeface used in this book. SOFTWARES USED: InDesign CC 2014, Photoshop CC 2014, Illustrator CC 2014 EQUIPMENT: MacBook Pro 15 inch: 2.7GH z Printed by Epson Stylus Pro 3880 Vivid Magenta on Red River Blanco Matte canvas. This is a student project only. No part of this book or any other part of the project was produced for commercial use.