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OLIVE + OAK By: Jorie Jacobi Photog raphy: Car men Troesser
I t ’s r a r e t o f i n d a l o c a l e t h a t ’s e q u a l l y p e r f e c t
featuring Emeril Lagasse, Jack McDavid and
for a casual date night or special occasion, but
M a r t i n Ya n w h i l e g r o w i n g u p — t h a t i s , w h e n
somehow Olive + Oak, opened in 2016, does
he wasn’t wreaking havoc on the quaint
just that. Helmed by owner Mark Hinkle and
Midwestern river town with his three brothers.
executive chef Jesse Mendica, this elegant café serves raved-about dishes like the
To g e t h e r t h e y h a v e c r e a t e d a n e n v i r o n m e n t
blue-crab gratin with Calabrian chile, celery
in which they craft each meal from the finest
and pretzel bread, which reviewers across
i n g r e d i e n t s t h e y c a n g a t h e r, o f t e n w o r k i n g
nearly all social-media platforms proclaim
with local farmers and artisans. The results
a
grabbed
include dishes like the eclectic elk loin, served
drinks at the neighboring sister restaurant
with parsnip cream, balsamic shiitakes and
The Clover and the Bee, while waiting
fingerling potatoes, or the Eggs in Purgatory
two hours for a table—and still left a five-
dish. Served with tomato ragù, chile, spaghetti
s t a r r e v i e w. “ I t . Wa s . W o r t h . I t . ” s h e w r i t e s .
squash and farm eggs, the dish is a dream
m u s t - t r y.
Another
reviewer
f o r t h e d i n e r. T h e m e n u i s r o u n d e d o u t w i t h Mendica has been working in the industry
a variety of seafood, vegetable and sandwich
since the age of 16, and in 2017 she was
dishes as well, including the dip: roasted
nominated as a James Beard Award semifinalist
leg of lamb, drunken goat cheese and lamb
i n t h e B e s t C h e f : M i d w e s t c a t e g o r y. H i n k l e ,
jus (yes, “drunken” goat cheese; sometimes
originally from Alton, Illinois, confesses
a foodie must throw caution to the wind).
he’d pass the time watching cooking shows
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