olio and elaia By: Amy De La Hunt Photog raphy: Car men Troesser T h e s e t w o B o t a n i c a l H e i g h t s re s t a u r a n t s a re s o c l o s e l y connected—both physically and conceptually—that first-time diners might be surprised at the very distinct menus and vibes each one offers. Olio—a wine bar housed in a former 1930s gas station—is full of hustle and bustle, with customers sitting elbow to elbow to enjoy Israeli-inspired dishes like charred tomato bruschetta, hearth-baked focaccia, cracked olives, hummus, lamb-stuffed pita or octopus with stewed eggplant. Elaia offers a more formal dining experience, where the focus is on classical cuisine influenced by contemporary trends and techniques. The prix fixe option on its tasting menu is arguably one of the best deals around, especially with pairings from the very strong wine list. B o t h re s t a u r a n t s h a v e s e e n c h a n g e s i n re c e n t m o n t h s , thanks to incoming executive chef Aaron Martinez. Restaurateur Ben Poremba recruited Martinez to inject new ideas into his two flagship restaurants— while still balancing the time-honored aspects that customers have come to love over the years. E v e n w i t h t h e n e w e n e r g y, t h e r e i s n o t a l k o f s h a k i n g u p t h e p o p u l a r b e v e r a g e p r o g r a m s . O l i o ’s c o c k t a i l s , i n p a r t i c u l a r, c o n t i n u a l l y p u s h i n t o n e w t e r r i t o r y, c o m b i n i n g f l a v o r s i n w a y s t h a t w o u l d b e d a u n t i n g i f t h e y w e re n ’t s o d e l i c i o u s ( b o u r b o n , carrot, lemon and maple is a case in point). 1634 TOWER GROVE AVE.
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