2 / Introduction / Area Map
Area Map / Introduction / 3
Southport 1
M6
Bolton
Parbold Wigan 8 M5
Leigh
Wirral Area
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M62
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Liverpool
Warrington
Birkenhead
Pex Hil Widnes
6 M5
Runcorn
Frogsmouth
M6
M 53
Frodsham Helsby
Harmer’s Wood
Chester Mold
Hope Mountain Stanner Nab Bulkeley Hill Bickerton Wrexham
Edge Scar
Crewe Nantwich
Manchester
Altitude: 50m Grid Reference: SJ 501887 Aspect: Various V0 - V10 D - E6
Pex Hill is a disused sandstone quarry on the outskirts of Widnes with great quality rock. It contains over 160 climbs, from boulder problems and micro-routes to walls in excess of 12 metres. Pex tends to polarise the viewpoints of climbers. For aficionados of fine crimping, neat footwork and slinky hips there is no finer venue in the universe, but power hungry wall thugs will find little to attract them here. Approach Pex Hill is located 15 km east of Liverpool on the edge of Widnes. Exit the M62 at junction 6 or 7 and turn onto the A5080 which runs between Cronton and Widnes. Follow the small road opposite Widnes Sixth Form College (speed bumps), at some green metal gates, and park at the visitors centre. Follow the railing around the quarry. Alternatively 200 metres towards Liverpool turn into Hall Lane and turn right again onto Mill Lane and park close to the obvious green gates beyond which an obvious track leads into the entrance.
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M62 A5 Pex Hil Visitor Centre
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Cronton 500m Catalepsy photo: Simon Panton (lo-res pic)
Widnes
6 / Pex Hill / Introduction The Climbing “Suffering from donkey footwork and zero technique? Well, invest some time at Pex Hill. It has been home to some of the most attractive climbers around (I am talking technique here)...” Pete Chadwick l998 guide The quarry has provided a forcing ground for developing technique and fitness for generations of Merseyside climbers. Easy of access and home to the mini-route, that particular hybrid, too high for a boulder problem and too small for a full blown route, the smooth sandstone walls demand good technique and develop awesome finger strength and deft footwork. Many of the higher routes can be soloed by the competent although top roping is also popular. In addition many fine traverses often close to the ground make Pex an ideal training venue or a suitable crag to visit if you are on your own. Previous guide books have warned against belaying to the railings which fringe the quarry rim for fear of invoking the wrath of the United Utilities which own the quarry so please respect this request.
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Introduction / Pex Hill / 7 Conditions and Aspect The quarry is sheltered and the walls face all directions and so sun or shade can generally be found. Some of the walls appear to be greener than they used to be and Pex and Main wall seep in the winter though Pisa Wall can generally be relied to provide some sport.
Grades Traditionally Pex Hill routes have been graded using only British technical grades as the distinction between boulder problems and micro-routes are blurred. Most routes are either top roped or soloed. Many of the climbs involve hard technical moves relatively close to the ground with easier climbing above, but beware, there are exceptions! The local ethic often involved soloing as high as possible before getting pumped or gripped and then down climbing before jumping off. Gradually, as bottle and familiarity increased climbers would then commit and go for the top. The widespread use of cams and the increasing use of head pointing tactics have meant that leading has become more common and the use of bouldering mats has led to a blurring of the distinction between what is solo-able and what should be top-roped. This situation is further confused by the presence of handy horizontal breaks two to three metres up, which often provide a convenient stopping place for those climbers who use the first part of routes as boulder problems. With this in mind routes have been graded in the style that they are commonly ascended. Relatively short routes/boulder problems have been given the now commonly accepted V grade followed by a technical British grade for the traditionalist amongst us, and the longer routes have been given British traditional grades. Those climbs which have a traditional grade but are often only climbed as a boulder problem are given an additional V grade. For example Tequila Sunrise as a boulder problem/micro route gets V2 6a, whereas Hart’s Arête gets E4 6b for a full ascent and V4 6b for its classic boulder problem to the break.
need interesting incidental pics here - landscape, groups, historicals etc
8 / Pex Hill / Lady Jane Area
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Lady Jane Area The long green wall to the left of the entrance provides many of the best routes at Pex Hill and several classic traverses. Routes at the left hand end can be soloed and many of the higher routes on the right can be led. The middle section has some excellent highball classic problems which require exquisite technique and cunning footwork to utilise the often tiny holds 1 Too Bold for Steve Boot 5c (V2) 4m The wall just right of the fence without using the left edge. Incidentally it isn’t. 2 Set Square VS 5a (V0) 5m Swing up and right on a deep pocket to the small ledge. Finish direct. 3 Set Square Direct 5c (V2) * 5m Can be very frustrating on a warm evening.
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4 Tequila Sunrise 6a (V2) *** 5m Start by the tree. Lovely elegant climbing up the wall with a stiff pull past a small L shaped ledge. 5 Harvey Wallbanger 5c (V2) *** 5m The wall 1 metre right gives a popular root with an unusual finishing hold. A technical and balancy start followed by crimpy moves lead to a good finger slot. 6 Black Russian 6a (V4) 5m Start by a slot at knee height. Difficult reachy moves lead up the wall finishing just right of the step at the top of the wall. 7 Lew’s Leap 5c (V1) ** 7m A tricky high step to a pocket leads through the beehive shaped niche to a handy finishing hold. 8 Lew’s Leap Direct 6a (V2) 7m Fingery moves up the wall to the right without recourse to the original route’s pocket.
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9 Finger-Ripper E5 6b (V6) 7m Hard and bold moves directly up the wall right of the niche.
vandalism, this climb still gives cutting edge crimping. More often finished up Bermuda Triangle.
10 Bermuda Triangle E3 6a (V4) *** 9m A difficult start leads to the infamous tendon popping double pocket. Easier climbing leads through the second niche to flat but good holds before the top. Unmissable.
The next two routes have attained mythical status amongst local climbers. The acolytes are many but the triumphant are few!
There are several traverses in this area: Start as for Set Square and finish at Lew’s Leap 5c (V1). Step up a move and traverse the top break back left to the arête 4c (V0). Traversing the foot ledge rightwards from Tequila Sunrise to Bermuda Triangle gives a height dependant V5. 11 Cosine Alternative E3 6a (V4) 9m A counter line which crosses Bermuda Triangle. A fine warm up traverse leads from here to Unicorn. 12 Breakaway E4 6c (V8) * 9m Marginally easier since recent
13 Catalepsy E4 6c (V7) *** 8m Reach the third niche by a hard and balancy crux. Thank god for mats! 14 Monoblock E5 7a (V10) *** 8m Climbs the wall to the right of the third niche. This proved to be Joe Healy’s ‘magnum opus’ and can be impossible to find if not chalked as the holds are so small! 15 Bernie E4 6b (V6) * 8m Climbs the wall past the old bolt and through the fourth niche. 16 Termination E5 6c (V7) 8m A desperate move left to the large pocket provides the crux.
10 / Pex Hill / Lady Jane Area
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17 Philharmonic E4 6b (V5) ** 8m Easier for those of above average stature. 18 Algripper E2 5c (V2) ** 8m This excellent route links the three pockets and the slot. Much harder than it looks and more than one move. 19 Jurassic Pork E5 6b 8m Thin climbing up the blank wall to the right. 20 Crossbow E1 6a (V3) 8m Make a hard move left from the good pocket on Lady Jane left to the sixth niche. It is possible to traverse rightwards after the crux of the following four routes and reverse Twin Scoops. 21 Lady Jane E1 5c (V2) ** 8m Climb the right trending ramp till a committing rock-up gains pockets. Step right and climb straight up past the left hand of two niches.
22 Lady Jane Direct E1 5c (V3) * 8m Direct to the big pocket. 23 Sidestep E1 5c (V2) 8m Climb straight up to the ďŹ nal holds of Lady Jane. 24 Twin Scoops Direct E1 6a (V3) ** 8m Straight up to the right hand niche by a high step, crimpy pull and long reach. Very satisfying. 25 Twin Scoops HVS 4c (V1) * 9m Mantelshelf on to the obvious ledge at three metres and then follow holds leftwards through the two scoops. This can be used as a descent by the conďŹ dent. 26 Twin Scoops E3 5c (V3) Right Hand 9m Straight up from the ledges using the obvious pocket.
Do not feed the butterflies Carefully I pulled two apparent sturdy branches out of the way with one hand and mantle shelved on the other, so managing to get two sets of toes on the top. At the critical moment the branch broke and I wavered in the breeze for a few seconds. Then a butterfly flew in front of my face. The blast of air from its wing beat sent me groundward, landing awkwardly on a pointed stone which broke my foot in two places. I had to turn to canoeing for the rest of the summer.
27 Creeping Jesus E1 5b (V2) *** 9m A very popular climb. From the right side of the Twin Scoops ledge reach the finger slot (good gear), before a committing swing and quick sprint gains the top. This has been the scene of a few soloing epics. 28 Creeping Jesus Direct 5c (V2) * 9m Use layaways to gain the ledges. 29 Kitt’s Wall E5 6b (V?) ** 9m Technical climbing past a small overlap up the big wall to the right via an obvious pocket 30 The Black Pimp E5 6b (V6) from Marseilles 10m Climb the wall left of the rib of Unicorn. Named after a local youth’s entertaining solo hitch hike to the Verdon Gorge!
Pat Boothham on ? photo: ? (lo-res web pic)
12 / Pex Hill / Crack and Up Area
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The V grades for the following climbs relate to problems which finish at the break. Traverse or jump off. 31 Unicorn E3 5b (V0) ** 11m Climb to a small ledge before a step left leads to the slim groove with a committing step up to gain and enter the cave, and a usually inelegant move to exit it. The small ledge mantled direct gives an entertaining and perplexing problem (V3). 32 Cave Route Right-Hand E6 6b (V6) 11m Climb up to the obvious square pocket right of the cave. 33 Ladytron E4 5c (V1) * 11m Bold climbing between the two ribs starting past obvious finger slot. 34 Cardiac Arête E4 6b (V2) * 11m Climb to the break and then make a difficult move from the jug above.
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There are three excellent traverses on this area: the classic Hart’s Arête Traverse climbs between Unicorn’s ledge and Crack and Up, 6b (V5) *** with feet just above the floor. The Highest 6a (V3) ** starts left of Unicorn and follows the main ledge system before dropping down slightly and finishes at The Web. The Grand Horizontal is the ultra low level traverse 6c (V9) ** rumoured to have been discovered by a well known local activist ‘mid coitus’. Needless to say, they can be completed in both directions. 35 Hart’s Arête E4 6b (V4) *** 11m The obvious arête gives both a classic route and boulder problem. Squeaky clean boots are essential for the initial moves. Give yourself a big tick if you onsight this one. 36 Zinger Zagger E3 5c (V2) * 11m The wall to the right via some pockets low down leads to a gripping sloping exit.
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37 Big Greenie E3 5c (V3) 11m The wall just to the right moving up and right from two large pockets.
42 Eliminate One E2 5b (V2) 11m An eliminate line squeezed in to the right of the runnels.
38 The Hulk E2 5c (V2) 11m Start just left of the crack and climb the wall passing the scoop on the left.
43 The Abort E1 5b (V0) *** 11m Straight forward climbing up the faint rib to a tricky long move for a good slot above the shallow niche.
39 Crack and Up E1 5b (V1) *** 11m A difficult polished start leads to the break and good holds. Climb direct to finish up the obvious crack.
44 Eliminate Two E2 5b (V2) 11m An eliminate.
40 Corner and Overhang E2 5b * 11m Start up Crack and Up to the first break. Step right and climb the wall on good holds. Take care with the creaking flake above the ledge. Finish to the right of the crack. 41 McArthur Park E3 6a (V3) * 11m Climb the pocketed wall between the two runnels. The start provides the technical climbing.
45 One Step E1 5b V1) * 11m A tricky starting move to good holds lead through the blocky niche. 46 Eliminate Three E3 5c (V2) 11m The wall just left of the corner. No touching the corner. 47 The Web E1 5b * 11m A good pitch up the corner with good protection and only one tricky move. The start is always a little damp but don’t let that put you off.
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Pex Wall Area The sunny wall to the right of the corner of The Web, though prone to seepage gives several fine routes. The wall was recently the scene of some controversy. Local activists placed a number of peg runners with the intention of making this area more viable for leading. Most were removed by persons unknown. Some pegs may or not be in place. It would be helpful if a status quo was accepted and the routes left as they are. 48 Pex Wall E4 6a ** 22m The longest route in Pex. Follow the lengthy slightly rising break with some tough moves to reach Cobweb Crack. Finish just right of Innocent. Pumpy! Many parties will run out of friends or energy and finish up Cobweb Crack (E3). 49 Eliminate Four E3 5c 11m Climb direct just right of The Web.
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50 The Witch E2 5b ** 11m Climb the wall three metres right finishing where the short diagonal break meets the top of the crag. 51 Four Jays E2 5b 11m Climb just right taking care at the top and finished to the left of the tree. 52 The Wizard E2 5b 11m Climb up through a set of pockets finishing to the right of the tree on top. 53 Green Monster E4 6a 11m Difficult climbing above the break past the graffiti ‘Kev+Rob’. 54 Alchemy E4 6a * 11m Starting from the foot ledge climb direct past the hole to a good finish. (one peg runner) 55 Warlock E3 5c ** 11m Start as for Alchemy (one peg runner) but trend right from the break.
Pex Wall Area / Pex Hill / 15 56 Warcry E3 6a ** 11m Hard moves up the wall three metres left of Cobweb Crack lead to the break and a peg runner. A long move using a small pocket leads to good holds. 57 Warmonger E5 6b 11m Climbs the wall just left of Cobweb Crack. A desperate move undercutting pockets may lead to good holds. 58 Cobweb Crack E1 5b ** 11m The obvious peg scarred crack is a popular and well protected lead. Can often be slightly damp. Watch out for the spiders!
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59 Spiderman E5 6b 11m Climb the wall just right of Cobweb Crack. No touching! 60 Warlord E3 6a *** 11m Technical and reachy moves lead to a good hold and a peg runner. Burly moves lead right and upwards past the break to a series of positive but well, spaced holds before a difficult finish. Superb 61 The Pacifist E5 6b 11m A difficult counter line to Warlord. 62 Innocent E4 6a 11m The wall just right starting from the faint runnel.
Better climbing reappears at the obvious arête: 63 Gaming Club 5a (V0) 9m Climb the exciting but worrying arête. A good traverse leads as far as The Rack: start on the break or below on pockets. The final airy moves across and into The Rack give food for thought (V2). 64 Sandinista 5c (V2) 9m Climb straight up through the niche.
Two traverses climb right from The Web. The obvious break and foot ledge leads as far as Innocent (V1), whilst a lower start using some tiny edges and sharp pebbles moves out lower and merges with the top traverse after 5m (V5)
65 Fallout Zone 6a (V3) 9m Climbs the wall to the right with hard moves over the overhang via a square pocket.
The following routes are overgrown and dirty and are probably lost for ever: Peeler, Vibrator, Trident, Right Corner, Philanderer, Massey Street, Wod’s Slot, Key of the Door.
67 Casino Club 5a (V0) 7m Step off the square block and climb the inset corner.
66 Pure Mania 6a (V3) 9m Up the obvious black wall.
68 The Talisman 4c (V0) 7m The wall left of the V chimney.
16 / Pex Hill / The Rack Area
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69 A Route 3a 7m The obvious chimney. Can be used as a descent.
78 Master Race E5 6b (V6) * 9m Ascends the left side of the recessed bay by a heinous mantelshelf.
70 B Route 3a 7m The groove on the right.
79 The Rack E1 5a (V2) ** 9m The centre of the wall, above initial ledges with a stretch to reach good holds is becoming polished.
71 Bramble 5a (V0) 7m The dirty corner on the right The next climbs start above The Rock platform to the left of the square cut bay which contains The Rack: 72 Thin Crack 5c (V2) 6m The thin crack with a difďŹ cult start. 73 Ramble 4c (V0) 6m Climb the pocketed wall. 74 Short Crack 4b 6m Climb the wall to the short ďŹ&#x201A;ake crack. 75 Heather Wall 5b (V1) * 6m Trend left up the pocketed wall. 76 Bon Ami 5b (V1) 6m Up the centre of the pocketed wall. 77 Bon Gre Malgre 5b (V2) 6m Good moves up the faint rib. Make sure you bounce to the left if you fall off!
The Rack Mike Hammil was soloing this one day and being a gritstone man was so delighted to find that he could get a fist jam near the top that he ignored the jugs. The rock shuddered and disintegrated around his muscly fist, and then it was Mikes turn to shudder as he tried to stay where he was. Luckily he did, or the route would now be a few feet longer. John Hart Crags
Memorial Wall / Pex Hill / 17
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The following routes are currently overgrown: 80 Pipedown E3 5c (V2) 9m The often wet crack. 81 Thumbscrew 5b (V1) 7m Climb the wall two metres right of pipedown. 82 Iron Maiden 5c (V2) 7m Up and through the crescent scoop. 83 Garrotte 5b (V1) 7m The wall to the right. 84 Bon Bon 4a 7m The wet and vegetated corner. 85 Gazebo 5a (V0) 7m The wall right of the stepped corner.
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Memorial Wall The short wall right of the arête provides some excellent short climbs: 86 Sweeney Arête 5a (V0) * 7m A smart climb up the obvious arête. 87 Robbery 5c (V2) ** 7m Climbs the wall just right without using the arête with a long reach for the slot. 88 Headstone 6a (V4) *** 7m Bold climbing on small positive holds. 89 Cenotaph 5a (V0) * 7m Climb the wall one metre right past a sharp incut and mantelshelf directly to finish. 90 Memorial Wall 4b *** 7m Climb leftwards to a sharp pocket then traverse right to finish. 91 Tombstone 5a (V0) ** 7m The wall just right. 92 Memorial Corner 4b 7m The short damp corner. Has been climbed as a winter route!
18 / Pex Hill / Vag Crap Wall
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An excellent traverse on shot holes leads from Memorial Corner to Sweeny Arete (V4). Vag Crap Wall The long wall to the right of the corner has become less popular over the years and some of the top outs are now overgrown. 93 Hunter’s Walk E2 5c (V2) ** 7m Start two metres right of the corner. Great climbing up the obvious slots with a difficult start and a committing top move. 94 St Paul E2 5c (V3) 7m Gain the big pocket and finish right or left. 95 Weasel E2 5c (V3) 7m Climb just right of the step at the top of the wall via three pockets. 96 Ferret E1 5a (V1) 7m Start one metre right. A classic traverse, Vag Crap, starts at Memorial Corner and finishes at Ferret (V4). The low level version is V6.
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97 Swinging Gulch 4b 5m Finishes up the obvious flake. 98 Stoolie 4c. 99 Judder 4c. 100 Four Most 4c 5m Climb past the four obvious pockets. 101 OK Blue Eyes 4c 5m A better route which starts between the two shot holes. 102 Sabre Cut 4c 5m Named after the finishing crack. Start up the chipped pockets. 103 Pink Panther 5a (V0) 104 Hookey E2 5b (V2) 5m Links the two scoops in the pink wall. 105 Pink Wall E3 6a (V3) 106 Pink Corner 4c 5m Good when clean. 107 Bill E1 5a (V0) 5m Two metres right of the corner.
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108 Ben E2 5c (V2) 109 Belcher E3 6a (V3) 5m The short difďŹ cult wall to the right The easier slabby area to the right has long been a suitable area for novices: Short Wall An easy scramble up steps and ledges leads to the routes proper. 110 Blob 3c 4m Direct up the arĂŞte. 111 Cob 4a 4m The short corner. 112 Short Wall 4b 4m Two metres right of the corner. 113 Hot Aches 5c (V2) 4m Climb the centre of the wall. 114 Marble Eyes 5a (V0) 5m Climb directly through the obvious scoop
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The next feature is the obvious arête of The Knife:
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115 The Knife E5 6a *** 13m The impressive arête with a slappy crux right at the top is superb. Start up the subsidiary lower arête. Don’t cock this one up!
13m A fantastic but frustrating route which climbs straight up into the base of the sustained shallow groove after a difficult start. The crux pockets often seep. The old aid bolts may hold a fall and there is a good peg to protect the last moves.
116 Catamytes Crack E6 6b * 13m The wall to the right via a shallow groove and two pockets. You’ll have to ask Pete Chadwick about the name.
119 Lemonade NL 6b 13m The dirty wall three metres right of Staminade.
117 Main Wall E5 6b ** 13m Start up Catemytes Crack, traverse rightwards and finish up the groove of Staminade. 118 Staminade E6 6b
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Ewan on The Knife photo: ? (lo-res web pic)
The next four routes are often dirty:
120 Pernod and Black NL 6b 13m A similar route three metres right. 121 Rum and Cocaine NL 6b 13m The wall two metres left of the corner.
22 / Pex Hill / Black Magic Wall
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Black Magic Wall The highest and most dramatic wall in Pex Hill is home to some superb fingery and technical climbs. Mostly top roped, occasionally led and rarely soloed this fine collection of crimpy excellence demonstrates just how good climbers in the eighties really were.
125 The Famous Alto NL 6c * Sax Break 13m Climb the desperate blank wall.
122 One of These Days Direct E4 5c 13m Bridge up the usually dirty corner.
126 Padarn Dance E5 6b * 13m An eliminate immediately left of Dateline without using any holds in the crack. Named after the practice of shoving a lighted rolled-up newspaper up your arse and running naked through the afore mentioned Welsh hostelry. Graded for a side runner.
123 One of These Days E3 5c * 13m Start below the obvious slot halfway between the corner and Dateline. Climb the wall above the slot before better holds lead leftwards into the corner.
127 Dateline E2 5c *** 13m A classic climb up the once pegged crack, with good protection. Initial difficulties soon ease. The first ascentionist was apparently late for a hot date in Widnes!
124 One of these Days E4 6a Direct Finish 13m Continue direct from the start of the traverse past a small overhang.
128 Sinbad E6 6b ** 13m Start at a small arête two metres right of Dateline and climb the wall parallel to the crack.
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129 Depression E6 6b ** 13m Make difficult moves past twin sloping pockets at three metres and continue upwards.
133 Acid Test E5 6b ** 13m Climb up to the obvious slot which takes a good friend. Make crux moves up and left to finish direct.
130 Exit on Air E6 6b *** 13m A wandering route which climbs to the pebble band to the left of Black Magic before making a rising traverse to join Acid Test just below its crux’
134 Parker’s Mood E5 6b 13m From the friend slot on Acid Test finish directly.
131 Black Magic E 6 6b *** 13m The best route at Pex, vandalised by the ‘St Helens Chipper’ and since repaired, it remains the celebrated local test piece. Though it can be led by slipping wires over old bolts and using friends in the top break, the talented tend to solo it………I wish! A direct start on the left is 6b. 132 Black Magic E6 6c * Direct Finish 13m Trend slightly right where the hold on the normal start to improve.
135 Euphoria E6 6b 12m A difficult line two metres to the right of Acid Test. 136 Never Mind the Acid E4 5c * 12m Climb the wall four metres left of the corner, just to the left of an old bolt, trending right at the top to finish up the obvious crack. 137 Treadmill E4 5c 10m Climb the wall two metres left of the corner. The traverse rightwards from Dateline is a classic of the genre. Delicate, fingery and very sustained it builds to a fine climax with a superb move to gain the sanctuary of The Widow (V3).
24 / Pex Hill / Pisa Wall
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Pisa Wall Short, quick drying and often in condition during the winter months Pisa Wall is the most popular area of Pex Hill providing often soloable routes together with a myriad of classic problems and eliminates on the smooth slightly overhanging right hand side. 138 The Widow 5b (V0) 7m The wet and dirty corner. 139 Polar Bear 6b (V5) * 7m Start two metres right of the corner and make a very hard move to an obvious horizontal pocket. Finish direct. 140 Time Passage 6b (V4) * 7m Climb the rib to the thin break. Step right and climb more easily to the top. The direct start and finish are 6a and 6c respectively.
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141 Cyclops 5b (V0) 7m Climb the wall to the left of the two huge square pockets and finish left of the beehive. 142 Two Eyes 4c (V0)
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139 7m From the large twin pockets climb up through the beehive shaped scoop. 143 Cornea 5c (V2) ** 7m The wall just right of Two Eyes has some nice technical moves and a long reach for the break from the group of three pockets. 144 Willy Simm’s Silly Whim 6b (V4) 7m Snake your way up the tiny arête using the vague layaway for your right hand.
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145 Retina 5b (V1) ** 7m Crimpy moves and a high step lead to the break left of the tree - no touching. 146 Nameless 4c (V0) * 7m Climb the wall directly right of the oak tree. 147 Iris 4c (V0) 7m Reach the break via a large hold and small pocket. Finish up the crack which leads to the step at the top. 148 Eliminate 4b (V0) * 7m Up the shallow corner then move slightly left at the break. 149 Goliath 5c (V2) * 7m Fingery moves lead to a long reach to a square pocket below the break.
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150 Square Four 4b (V0) * 7m Start below the four holds and climb direct. 6a without the boreholes. 151 Greeting 5b (V1) ** 7m Tricky moves hopefully lead to the pocket left of the twin slots. Easier if done dynamically. 152 Handshake 5b (V1) ** 6m A friendly route. Climb slightly leftwards to the twin vertical slots just below the top, introduce yourself, and pull to the top. 153 Pisa Wall 4a ** 6m The leaning wall left of straight crack provides one of the easier routes and a convenient descent for the conďŹ dent.
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154 Warm Up 5c (V1) * 6m Climb the wall between Pisa Wall and Straight Crack without using holds on either.
159 Green Streaks 5b (V1) * 7m The wall with the parallel green streaks. It’s not as easy as it looks.
155 Straight Crack 4a ** 6m The easiest route at Pex Hill. It even has some hand jams!
160 Fingers 5c (V2) 6m Start one metre to the right and from the break with the large pebble use two poor holds to reach the top.
156 Eliminate Wall 5b (V1) 6m The steep wall between the two cracks.
161 Bushy Tale 5b (V1) ** 6m Climb the wall behind the tree with a long reach for the vertical slot.
157 Mankey road 5c (V2) *** 6m The right hand crack is more difficult than it looks and the crux move is quite committing.
162 One Move 6a (V3) * 6m The wall below the railings has at least two hard moves.
158 Monkey Grip 5b (V1) ** 7m Climb the scoops leftwards to a good hold in the break. Crank to the top using the excellent pocket.
163 Thumb Screw 6a (V3) 6m Use a poor sloping bore hole to start and finish just right of the railings.
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164 Commando 6a (V3) * 6m Start 2m left of the arete. Dyno to the break and then dyno for the top of the wall.
High 5c (V2) * From Two Eyes step up to the break and head right to the Gorilla arête without using the top break.
165 Gorilla 5c (V2) ** 5m Just left of the arête with a committing move to and from a disappointing pocket.
Middle 6a (V4) *** Starting as for Gorilla traverse left, step down at Green Streaks and continue with feet in the break till a difficult move pulling on a smooth pebble leads to Two Eyes
166 Rock Over 4c (V0) 5m From a good hand hold on the arete rock onto the shelf above and right. Pisa Wall has many fine traverses. Needless to say they can be done in both directions and extended at will:
Lower 5c (V2) ** From the pockets below Two Eyes traverse right along the low break to Eliminate.
‘....led astray by a disgraceful cast of characters I was given little chance of redeeming myself and making anything of my life. Instead I broke bones, cut fingers, ripped tendons, lost girlfriends, signed on and dropped out. Oh! but what a great way to do it....’
Brats, Bikes and Boldness (A personal perspective of Pex Hill) by Phil Davidson l975 now appears quite distant, but nevertheless this was the year when I along with a school friend decided that we should check out climbing having seen climbers whilst cycling around the peak district. This involved a trip to the library, climbing book in hand, a hemp rope from some road works and off to Pex Hill. Our first visit was one of awe with an old guy allowing us to top rope Straight Crack; after he showed us how to tie a bowline knot. Cycling with climbing gear in panniers allowed us to visit Frodsham and Helsby too. We were hooked. Every spare moment involved climbing and Pex Hill was the venue. Gradually our strength and footwork began to develop and we were slowly recognised as keen climbers. Duggy (later seriously injured in a motorcycle accident) and I set about sorting out the free ascent of Dateline which traditionally had always gone with a few points of aid. Our baseball boots, hemp rope and attitude soon caught the attention of Ron James (of BBC programme fame ‘Rock Face’). He seemed perplexed as we asked for his autograph and his I M Marsh outdoor pursuit students more than amused, as we practised classic abseils down the Dateline wall. Ellis Brighams was of course a port of call and it was here that we met with Ken Lathom, Robbie Mallinson and the very talented and bold Chris Hunter; we began to gain some kudos as young up starts. Climbers such as Rick Newcombe and Lew Brown were regulars and another quality character who was often around was Tom Hurley. Now this man was an eccentric classic. Memories of him climbing The Web straggled out with crutchless fibre helly’s on as mothers walked their innocents and Tom’s tackle hanging out will never be lost; or of the lift we had with him from Llanberis. Flooded out of our tents with pits floating, we abandoned the climbing and set off home. This was in an Anglia estate (narrow wheel base) with no oil to speak off, temperature gauge off the clock and tearing downhill into Mold with massive brake fade. Toms answer to this serious situation, town centre looming, was instructing me to open the doors for air resistance. Tom’s alpine and motorcycling abilities were also as mad, coming ninth in the Manx GP with a bald front tyre. Unfortunately he was killed on a bivvi in the Alps, his body never found. The St Helens mountaineering club was the nearest club and an important milestone, but joining at under sixteen and meeting in a pub was difficult to say the least. Undeterred with our refusal we soon began hitching to North Wales staying in Humphries Barn at 2lp/night and began leading routes such as Cenotaph Corner, Cemetery Gates and other Llanberis classics. Hugh Banner usually attended the club meets and we became life long friends and occasional climbing partners until his recent tragic death. Hugh was impressed with our ability as Gaz Healey and I started to develop Pex Hill, climbing virtually all the recognised routes in the quarry and adding quite a few of our own.
Stu Thomas wrote a guide to Pex Hill in 77 and it was included in the Lancashire guide book. This spurred us on to climb every route in the guide. l976 and the memorable summer was spent climbing virtually every classic Extreme and in those days Hard Extreme in the guide. Trips up to Cloggy with Hugh allowed me to develop my forte of bold wall climbing and Pex Hill now allowed me to train and refine it it. Routes began to appear on blank walls and another talented climber Dr John Hart began climbing some excellent classics, Harts Arete typically one of them. No wall was taboo, and between 77 and the 8O’s eighties the routes virtually doubled in number with some desperate ones included. At around this time Joe Healey began climbing and soon gained amazing strength and footwork to match; every night there was quality crack and the next hurdle was to lead or more often solo the routes. I personally was on a soloing mission. Harts arête, the Knife and Main Wall were others as confidence and apparent immortality developed. I would typically arrive via motorcycle at the top of the quarry, squeeze through the gap in the railings and down climb Dateline with rucksack, crash helmet through the crook of my arm and motorcycle boots on as a grand entrance, stopping on the crux to belch loudly and check out who was about. More serious propositions as solos were Sinbad the Sailor, Depression, Black Magic, Acid Test and one that I was particularly proud of Staminade. Technical crimpy routes such as Catalepsy, Bernie, Termination, Bermuda Triangle and the most difficult, Joe Healey’s test piece, Monoblock were also attracting attention and the quarry was busy and renowned for its difficulty. I did repeat Monoblock numerous times over the years but now look at it in complete disbelief; the route even now is never climbed and has had just three ascentionists (two more in 2OO8) to date. This was also without crash mats, a girly thing caused by the ‘plastic adventure’ crew of indoor climbers, top ropers and no hopers, chipping holds and
climbing, ’RISK’. My is a sport with a serious risk of ‘DEATH’.
losing sight of the real essence of rock view is that climbing
Those that disagree have never been there and experienced the euphoria of ‘time lapsed’ moves and
There have always been lots of talented climbers out there, but precious few willing to lay it on the line. The skills and technical ability learned on Pex’s thin walls and visits to Helsby soloing the ‘Not Leds’ in the guide, developed cool heads for other serious excursions. This allowed me to claim the first solo ascent of Right Wall, Great Wall on Cloggy and Craig y Forwyn and onsight solos of Linden and Cockblock.
the emotional experience that this kind of climbing involves.
Fashions change and with the growth of sports climbing Pex is no longer deemed steep enough for serious training and there are often more climbers indoors at local walls than there are in the quarry. But one should never underestimate this innocuous hole in the ground; it will give a grounding in technique, finger strength and boldness that will carry you far.