All That Glitters ~ Luxury Watches & Jewellery Magazine by All That Glitters

ALL THAT GLITTERS

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

he sky grew darker, painted blue on blue, one stroke at a time, into deeper and deeper shades of night.” Haruki Murakami could have been describing the Kashmir sapphire, whose velvety azure appeal has made the stone peerless in the world of gems. One look at a stone from the North-West Himalayas and you understand why ancient civilizations believed that the world was set upon an enormous sapphire, which painted the sky blue with its reflection. According to the records of the Geological Survey of India, circa 1890, the existence of sapphires in Kashmir was first brought to light in 1881-82, when some stones were brought into Simla by traders from Lahaul, who claimed to have got them from shikaris. A landslide had apparently laid bare the rocks beneath the soil, exposing the glittering stones in the mountains on the borders of Zanskar. One story said a shikari, looking for a flint, had picked up a small sapphire and finding that it worked better than the quartz he usually used, had carried it about with him for ages before selling it to a Lahauli trader. The Simla traders went wild, and bought up large quantities of the stone—at the princely sum of one rupee per seer. And to think that one Kashmir blue fetched $3.5 million (or nearly `20 crore) at a Christie’s sale in Geneva this May, setting a world auction record price per carat for a sapphire. The 19.88-carat, cushionshaped stone, known as the ‘Star of Kashmir’, combined an exceptional size with the homogenous cornflower blue colour that is highly desired in Kashmir gems, said the auctioneer. But then, money pales in comparison to the value of heritage. Consider the two watch brands that complete their half-century this year: the TAG Heuer and the Rolex Daytona. Both were inspired by famous

automobile races; both are now collector’s items. The original Daytona watches were not in demand when produced, and were inexpensive to boot, but they’ve acquired both cash and cachet over the years. The rarest Daytona is the one with the Paul Newman dial, like the one which the actor started wearing in 1972, when he took up automobile racing. It was presented to him by his wife and he wore it till he died in 2008. The Carrera was created by Jack Heuer, the great grandson of the creator of the brand. His timepiece was inspired by the ‘Carrera Panamericana Mexico Road Race,’ the world’s most gruelling open-road endurance competition. Heuer, who clearly didn’t subscribe to the ‘what’s-in-a-name’ school of thought, felt the title Carrera was “elegant, dynamic, easily pronounced in all languages and charged with emotion”, and he decided to create a watch that paid tribute to it. Fifty years on, the race is dead; its legacy keeps ticking. Closer home, Tanishq is doing a marvellous job of keeping alive the rich legacy of Indian jewellery, while keeping out the unsavoury practices (like misrepresentation of quality and under-caratage of gold and diamonds). From recreating heavy, 19th century kundan pieces to creating ofﬁce-friendly cosmic swirls and star bursts of diamonds at affordable prices, the Tata company has reset the face of jewellery retailing in the country. And with Diwali around the corner and Christmas just a little ahead, the creative heads at Tanishq, just like those at design houses around India, have been racking their heads to come up with ﬂittering new ideas and trends for the festive season. By the look of it, they’ve done a dazzling job. Take a look. And have a great festival.

Shampa Dhar-Kamath EDITOR

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

ALL THAT GLITTERS

CONTENTS

glitters ALL THAT

OBJECTS OF OPULENCE

Editorial Director: Prabhu Chawla Editor: Shampa Dhar-Kamath Design Editor: Sapnnaa Kapoor Associate Copy Editor: Anika Mohla Assistant Editor: Nidhi Raj Singh Associate Art Director: Rasshi Ajmanni Girdhar Photographer: Ravi Choudhary Production: Pushpa Singh Printed and published by Avnish Singh on behalf of Express Publications (Madurai) Ltd Registered OfďŹ ce at Express Gardens, No. 29 Second Main Road, Ambattur Industrial Estate, Chennai 600058. Published at 2nd Floor, Tej Building, 8-B Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi 110002. Printed at CIRRUS GRAPHICS PVT LTD, B-61, Sector 67, Noida 201301, UP Editor Shampa Dhar-Kamath (Responsible for news under the PRB Act) RNI Reg.No: DELENG/2012/46741, Volume 2, Number 5, November-December 2013. ADVERTISEMENT ENQUIRIES: atg@newindianexpress.com Bangalore: +91 9535566115, Bhubaneshwar: +91 9238003505, Chennai: +91 9244317292, Delhi: +91 9811270571, +91 9971234708, Hyderabad: +91 9246391021, Kochi: +91 9061344257, Kolkata: +91 9831048632, Mumbai: +91 9769521222. Circulation Enquiries: atgsales@newindianexpress.com; Bangalore: 97424 00220, Bhubaneswar: 92380 03505, Chennai: 80560 06191, Delhi: 97117 00590, Hyderabad: 92380 03503, Kochi: 94460 71012. COPYRIGHT: Express Publications (Madurai) Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction in any manner, electronic or otherwise in whole or in part, without prior written permission is prohibited. DISCLAIMER: All views expressed in this magazine are those of the authors/interviewers and not necessarily of the magazine. The publication is in no way responsible for publishing contributions that may have appeared elsewhere. All disputes are subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of the competent courts and fora in Delhi only.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

PHOTO FEATURE 78 A photo journey through the fabrics and jewellery for this festive season

ALL THAT GLITTERS

CONTENTS

INTERVIEW 48

Vummidi Jithendra, managing partner of Chennai-based Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers, talks about his legacy and future

GUEST COLUMN 46 Jewellery designer Alpana Gujral’s take on age appropriate jewellery

BRAND STORY 54

Tales behind jewellery brand Tanishq and how it revolutionised the Indian market

HERITAGE 62

Sapphire, the seductive cornﬂower-blue stone, is a seductress that few can resist

TREND 68

Indian designers have thought up new ways for brides to wear their jewellery this wedding season

NOVELTY 24

A jewellery line by Mamta Malhotra Grover is inspired by SH Raza’s paintings

REPORT 26

Trends from the fourth edition of India International Jewellery Week 2013

HISTORY 30

Carrera remains the standard-bearer of TAG Heuer’s motorsports pedigree

CONCEPT 34

Brands have created mechanical watches for men that will stand the test of time

QUIRKY 40

There’s one watch for each one of us; match your watch to your personality

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

REGULARS

NEWS 6

Updates from the watch and jewellery industry

AUCTION SCENE 16 Catch all the action from auctions across the globe

QUIZ 22

It’s question time. Check your watch quotient

WHIMLIST 88

Glittering pieces to suit every budget

INDEX 94

Like what you see? Here’s where you can ﬁnd the best of the lot

ODDS & ENDS 96 Stuart Weitzman’s stilettos for the real life Cinderella

COVER PHOTO COURTESY

Neckpiece from Jodha-Akbar collection by TANISHQ

ALL THAT GLITTERS

NEWS

all the BUZZ

Love and longing for Longines

he search for the oldest Longines watch in India, which began this summer, has ﬁnally come to an end. In an event held in New Delhi on October 9, Longines not only celebrated 135 years of its presence in India, but also honoured loyal patrons who were in possession of some of the oldest Longines watches in circulation. Brand ambassador Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and Charles Villoz, vice-president (sales), felicitated the winners. The ﬁrst prize, a week-long trip for two to Switzerland, was won by Khurshed Poonawala, an entrepreneur based in Mumbai. In his possession was a silver pocket watch that had been bought in September 1884 by an Englishman who gifted it to Poonawala’s grandfather a century ago. The second prize, a pocket watch set in silver, was won by Mohammed Masood, an exhibition designer from Hyderabad. His watch, too, was owned by his grandfather and had been sold by the company in November 1894. The third prize went to Vikram Jayant Ranadive, an HR professional from Mumbai. His Longines watch, set in yellow gold, was owned by his great-grandmother and had been bought in March, 1900. The event also saw the unveiling of Longines’ Conquest Classic collection, which targets lovers of equestrian sports.

Ŗ Thiruvananthapuram: East Fort, 0471-2472922 | Pazhavangadi, 0471-2572117 | Pattom, 0471-2543611 | Peroorkada, 0471-2539377 Ŗ Nedumangadu: Market Junction, 0472-2803505 Ŗ Kollam: Chinnakada, 0474-2752005 Ŗ Pathanamthitta: K.P. Road, 0468-2270555 Ŗ Thiruvalla: Near KSRTC, 0469-2604060 Ŗ Kottayam: Rajiv Gandhi Complex, 0481-2303555 | K.K. Road, 0481-2564825 Ŗ Thodupuzha: 04862-226699 Ŗ Kochi: M.G. Road, 0484-2353295 | Lulu Mall, 0484-2728777 Ŗ Kodungallur: Vadakkenada, 0480-2801771 Ŗ Chavakkad: Bypass Junction, 0487-2500000 Ŗ Thrissur: Palace Road, 0487-2323971 | High Road, 0487-2420011, 2440460 Ŗ Palakkad: G.B. Road, 0491-2524500 | T.B. Road, 0491-2524900 Ŗ Coimbatore: Cross Cut Road, 0422-2482222 Ŗ Bengaluru: Jayanagar, 080-41666842 Shop online: www.joscogroup.com | QHſEG"LQUEQITQWR EQO | /JoscoGroup 6

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

ALL THAT GLITTERS

NEWS

October 31-November 4 CHINA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR

November 1-4 MID-SOUTH JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR

VENUE:

China International Exhibition Centre, Beijing

Not just for the nuptials

Memphis Cook Convention Centre, US

November 1-4 MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FESTIVAL

November 27-29 MUMBAI JEWELLERY AND GEM FAIR

VENUE:

Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre

November 28-December 1 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS’ SHOW

Bombay Exhibition Centre

December 4-7 DUBAI INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY WEEK

VENUE:

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

VENUE:

ome wedding season in India, jewellery brands go into a frenzy launching their bridal collections. Mumbai-based Tara Jewellers’ new bridal collection, however, does not limit itself to the jewels worn during the wedding ceremony. Instead, the collection, called ‘bridal trousseau collection 2013’, has jewellery for all occasions such as mehndi-sangeet, cocktails, festivals as well as daily wear for new brides. It comprises necklace sets, pendants, rings, cocktail rings, solitaires, mangalsutras, bangles, chandelier earrings, jhumkis and cuffs. The jewellery is set in yellow and white gold and studded with rose-cut and uncut diamonds, pearls and coloured precious gemstones. Each piece uses BIS-hallmarked gold and diamonds certiﬁed by Gem Labs. As a value-added service, Tara Jewellers is also offering free gold purity testing and monthly saving schemes to customers.

Dubai World Trade Centre

December 7-9 6TH KERALA GEM AND JEWELLERY SHOW CIAL Trade Fair and Exhibition Centre, Kochi

VENUE:

Hotel Rajmahal Palace, Jaipur

D-DAY DIKTATS, DESIGNER STYLE

January 10-12, 2014 GUJARAT GOLD JEWELLERY SHOW VENUE:

Gujarat University Convention & Exhibition Centre, Ahmedabad

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

January 11-13, 2014 KJGF KOLKATA JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR VENUE:

aruna D Jani, who likes to call herself an ‘adornologist’, has unveiled a bridal collection in three categories—classic, contemporary and trendsetter. The classic range of diamond jewellery has conventional designs in necklaces, earrings and bracelets studded with coloured gemstones such as emeralds, sapphires and rubies. The contemporary collection has more glamorous designs and uses precious and semi-precious stones embedded with diamonds. The third collection, the trendsetter, is made up of statement pieces whose ethos seems to be ‘less is more’. Cocktail rings, chandelier earrings and solitaires make up this collecton.

Cleopatra was so captivated by the green stone that she was constantly draped in emerald-encrusted mantles. She also owned emerald mines near the Red Sea.

December 20-23 JAIPUR JEWELLERY SHOW

VENUE:

LESS IS MORE

radtitionally, the Indian wedding season is marked by two things—families preparing for the wedding in a frenzy and brides losing their sleep over how to look different. Jewellery designer Nirav Modi has decided to help the brides with this endeavour. The man of (normally) few words has put together a coffee table book called The Essence of a Bride. It features wedding ensembles by 12 much-sought-after fashion designers (includding Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, Tarun Tahiliani, Gauri & Nainika, Gaurav Gupta and Ritu Kumar), complemented by some of Modi’s most stunning creations. Shot at the splendid Baroda Palace, the photographs in the book capture a bride’s various moods. “It brings together the best couturiers of the country and my love for jewellery,” explains Modi.

Hermès enters the world of haute horology Minute by minute, Hermès is growing in terms of volume and in terms of complexity of its watch movements. The marque XQYHLOHG LWV À UVW WRXUELOORQ watch, the Arceau Lift, on October 9. The timepiece has a double ‘H’ topping the tourbillon carriage while the barrel bridge reproduces one of the emblematic motifs.

Milan Mela Ground, Kolkata NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

ALL THAT GLITTERS

NEWS

SECOND TIME OVER

olkata seems to be the new home for jewellery and watch brands. After Omega, jewellery brand Diagold opened its second store in the state capital on October 8. Known for its customized masterpieces, Diagold’s new store offers its latest range of women’s and men’s jewellery. Spread over an area of 720 square feet, the showroom has brought the number of Diagold exclusive stores to four across the country. Diagold was launched in the City of Joy in January 2001 and has since moved to a network of showrooms covering Mumbai and Delhi as well.

In marketing and ad campaigns, clocks always show the time as ten minutes past ten o’clock to denote ‘happy time’ or indicate that the clock is smiling

PRESSING ISSUES

Photo courtesy: ENTICE

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

n a letter written to the minister of consumer affairs, K V Thomas, the All India Gems and Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF) chairman Haresh Soni has opposed the latest hallmark certicard system proposed by the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS). According to the new system, every jewellery retailer in metropolitan cities needs to issue a certicard, along with its photograph and unique identiﬁcation mark, for every piece of jewellery sold. The GJF has made several representations to the ministry and Director General of BIS to explain the industry’s apprehensions on the matter. “The cost of each piece of jewellery will increase due to the additional cost burden of `125-`150 for issuing one certicard. In case of mass-produced jewellery, it is impossible to issue a certicard for each one of them,” Soni said. He added that it’s an uphill task for the jeweller to maintain thousands of such certiﬁcates in stores and to retrieve them at the time of delivery. This process might also encourage jewellers to avoid hallmarking jewellery, and also put additional burden of vigilance on BIS, he said.

Bollywood connection

Kerala-based jeweller Joyalukkas has roped in actor Hrithik Roshan as its brand ambassador, as a part of its global expansion. “The decision to sign him was taken keeping in mind his global recognition and mass appeal,” Joy Alukkas, chairman and MD of the group, said after the announcement on October 8. 7KH $OXNNDV *URXS RSHQHG WKH À UVW RI LWV showrooms in Kuwait City on the same day. This was inaugurated by its brand ambassadors Vidya Balan and Suresh Gopi. The store will sell traditional silk saris, in addition to jewellery.

ALL THAT GLITTERS

NEWS

Tarun Tahiliani’s golden ties

arun Tahiliani’s mastery of couture is well known. What’s not known is his passion for jewellery that goes much beyond pairing the baubles with his ensembles. “I am in love with jewellery, and designing them gives me immense satisfaction,” he said during his bridal couture exposition in New Delhi earlier this year. Later, he pleasantly surprised everyone by tying up with the World Gold Council (WGC) to design an exclusive jewellery line for Azva. Crafted in 22-carat gold, the collection is called ‘Tarun Tahiliani for Azva’ and comprises exquisite necklaces, earrings and bracelets. The collection is inspired by the saat pheras of traditional Hindu weddings, and each piece has seven elements. WGC has partnered with leading jewellery retailers to exclusively retail the collection for the upcoming wedding season.

Best of the BEST

South India-based Kalyan Jewellers was adjudged the ‘retail chain RI WKH \HDU· DQG ¶EHVW DGYHUWLVLQJ FDPSDLJQ RI WKH \HDU· DW WKH À UVW India Bullion and Jewellery Awards in Mumbai in October. The ‘best retail chain’ evaluation criteria included key achievements, revenue growth, technological innovation, regional vision, strategy and profitability. The brand has actor Amitabh Bachchan as its ambassador and has shot TV commercials with him as a part of its campaign Vishwasam Athalle Ellam meaning ‘trust is everything’. Kalyan’s other brand ambassadors include Nagarjuna, Prabhu Ganesan and Shivraj Kumar.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

ALL THAT GLITTERS

NEWS

e pink ﬂamingo

ashion designer Anita Dongre, credited with introducing casual chic to Indian women through multiple fashion lines, has now also launched a jewellery collection. Dongre, who started out designing buttons to complete her menswear line, decided to craft a complete collection after partnering with Mumbai-based Jet Gems and understanding the nuances of jewellery designing from its head Pradeep Jethani. Her first line of jadau jewellery is called Pink City. Set in 18 and 22-carat gold, the pieces use jadau and meenakari, and are adorned with precious gems. Divided into Nayantara (for women) and Anshumat (for men), the collection features polki necklaces, chandbalas, jhumkas, bangles, cuffs, buttons and cufflinks. Priced between `50,000 and `10 lakh, the collection is available at Dongre’s flagship bridal store in Mumbai.

Black jet, a gemstone made of fossilized coal, was favoured by Queen Victoria who used to wear it with her mourning dresses, especially the ‘whitby jet’

OH! KOLKATA

nlike other days, Camac Street buzzed with people trying to get a glimpse of actor Abhishek Bachchan, who arrived with Jean-Pascal Perret, vice-president of communication and PR, Omega, to inaugurate the brand’s ﬁrst boutique in Kolkata. Bachchan, Omega’s brand ambassador, wore the Seamaster Planet Ocean watch, equipped with co-axial calibre 8605, at the event. Spread over 960 sq. ft, the boutique has brought the total number of exclusive Omega stores in the country to seven. The space has been designed around the brand’s global design concept which draws inspiration from the themes of sun, water, earth and time. Exquisitely crafted silvered glass cases display timepieces from four of the brand’s watch families—Constellation, Seamaster, Speedmaster and De Ville—as well as its ﬁne leather collection.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

SUPERHERO STUFF

or once, superhero Krrish was seen hovering closer to earth, much to the delight of his young fans. The occasion was the unveiling of an accessories line, created by Hrithik Roshan and jewellery designer Farah Khan-Ali. “He has overcome his personal obstacles to be a public ﬁgure and was thus the inspiration himself,” Khan-Ali said. The range comprises leather bands, pendants, chains and pins, and is priced at `2,5006,000. Made mostly from silver, some pieces are studded with diamonds. The Krrish collection is available at Khan-Ali’s store on Turner Road, Bandra (West), Mumbai as well as at www.farahkhanﬁnejewellery.com.

ALL THAT GLITTERS

AUCTIONS

going, going,Gone Never mind the recession. The auction scene around the world is hotter than ever. Take a peek.

Putting a heavy price on time

50 years of Rolex Daytona Christie’s will mark 50 years of the Rolex Daytona with an auction dedicated to the chronograph on November 10 in Geneva. Fifty meticulously selected Daytonas will go under the hammer with estimates ranging from $10,000 to $300,000. The Daytona has a huge following due to its rarity and good looks. It has been worn by some of the most memorable men, including Paul Newman, who wore one while at the wheel of the Daytona Car Race in 1995, as well as Jean-Paul Belmondo and Eric Clapton. The fact that Rolex made small batches of personalised Daytonas for armed forces, corporations and individuals, is another facet for collectors. It’s hard enough ﬁnding a new stainless steel Daytona, never mind a vintage piece in perfect condition. The highlight of the auction will be the very ﬁrst 1963 Daytona (when it was known as a Cosmograph), valued between $40,000 and $80,000. The hunch is that it will go for much more. In focus will be the 10 ‘Paul Newman’ models and, in particular, the ‘John Player Special’, all gold with a black dial—so 1969. Exotic case decorations and rare variants will also be up for sale. Personalised Daytonas are the rarest; no surprise then that the top lot is ‘The Arabian Night’, made for Sultan Qaboos Bin Said Al Said of Oman in 1974, with his signature in red on the dial. The watch has a majestic estimate of $300,000-$500,000.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

Sotheby’s inaugural auction of Art of Imperial India held in London on October 9 attracted bidding from around the globe, achieving a total of £1,837,925 or `182,598,304. Over 90 exquisite objects exemplifying the broad artistic traditions of Imperial India were presented for sale, encompassing almost 500 years of every kind of decorative art produced in the region. The star lot of the sale, an extremely rare enamelled and bejewelled gold pandan box, sold to a bidder in the auction room for £662,500 or `65,819,539, more than double its pre-sale high estimate (£200,000-300,000). An important group of 11 works relating to Tipu Sultan were also highly-sought-after, selling for a combined amount of £389,425 or `38,689,470. Tipu’s sword was bought for £98,500 or `9,785,999 by a bidder on the phone. Benedict Carter, Director, Head of Auction Sales Middle East said: “The auction captured the attention of collectors from around the world. Bidders from the West coast of America to South-East Asia gathered at Sotheby’s to compete for the exquisite Indian works of art, with museum-quality pieces attracting bids from institutions and private collectors alike. Interest in Indian works of art has been growing in recent years and the strong prices achieved at the auction bear testament to the strength of this market and the increasing demand for desirable works relating to the Indian world.” Of the 92 lots offered, only 38 went unsold. Also on sale was an 11-bore silver-mounted ﬂintlock duck gun from the personal armoury of Tipu Sultan which went for £88,900. A gem-set gold pocket watch with painted cover depicting Maharaja Mahendra Singh of Patiala fetched £62,500 from an anonymous buyer. A double-sided album page with two Akbari miniatures (circa 1590) commanded £43,750.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 17

ALL THAT GLITTERS

AUCTIONS

Treasures from the sea The highlights of Bonhams Fine Jewellery Sale in London on September 18 indicated the trends that have emerged this year in antique jewellery. Natural pearls have been achieving record prices at auctions, so all eyes were on Lot 135, a pair of art deco natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings circa 1925—one of the top lots of the auction. The classic art deco design clearly appealed to collectors because they fetched £157,000, the highest price of the sale. More natural pearls were included in the sale: a simple string with a very storied history. The single row of pearls was said to have belonged to Oliver Cromwell’s youngest daughter Frances (1638-1720), who was captured wearing the necklace in a painting by John Michael Wright, which is on display at the Glasgow Museum’s Collection. Passed down through direct descendents of the Cromwell family for generations, their historic provenance boosted the price considerably. Estimated to sell for £6,000-£8,000, the hammer eventually went down at £25,000. In 1715, Frances’s son John Russell became the owner of Chequers Court in Buckinghamshire through his marriage to Joanna Rivett. Sir Thomas Frankland (1784-1849), a direct descendent of Elizabeth Russell, another of Frances Cromwell’s children, inherited Chequers in the 19th century and he assumed the name Russell. Sir Robert’s fifth daughter, Rosalind Alicia Frankland-Russell (died 1900), married Lt Colonel Francis L’Estrange Astley and until 1912, Chequers remained in the Astley family. In 1977, the current owner of the necklace inherited it from a distant cousin, the great-great-granddaughter of Rosalind Alicia. Today, Chequers is the country residence of the British Prime Minister, but it is still well known for its connection to the Cromwell family and has a large collection of Cromwell memorabilia. Art deco designs have been particularly embraced by the auction world this year, and Cartier was a master of them. With its clear Oriental influences, a look closely associated with Cartier at the time, the rare art deco shoulder brooch signed Cartier, circa 1922, was estimated to achieve £25,000-£35,000 but nearly tripled that high estimate, selling for £97,250. A pair of art deco natural pearl and diamond pendent earrings, circa 1925 (estimate: £150,000-£200,000) finally went for £157,250.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

MUMBAI

ALL THAT GLITTERS

AUCTIONS

Beauty in red and white A magniﬁcent ruby and diamond necklace, by Cartier, circa 1925, made headlines at the Spring Fine Jewellery & Jadeite Auction held in May at the Island Shangri-La Hotel in Hong Kong. Featuring approximately 20 carats of rubies and 30 carats of diamonds, the necklace’s linear outline and geometric design made it a classic example of the Art Deco period. The period was deﬁned by geometric forms and bold colours. Diamonds were extremely popular in Art Deco and were invariably accompanied by the bright colours of rubies, sapphires and emeralds. The 15 cushion-shaped rubies in the ‘Egyptian revival necklace’ graduate in size to the centre, each within a geometric surround of brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds forming a tapering plaque. The necklace carried an estimate of $390,000-520,000. The auction featured 190 lots in all, with a total estimate of over $6 million.

Watch out for the best On November 11, Christie’s Geneva will offer at an auction a phenomenal array of period, vintage and contemporary timepieces selected according to the firm’s prerogative to only bring out top quality collector’s watches. Possibly one of the best curated watch sales ever, it will feature the rarest examples to appeal to the most demanding of international connoisseurs. Comprising 350 lots, the sale will be led by a rare pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, manufactured by Patek Philippe in 1957 (estimate: $1,000,000-1,500,000). With estimates ranging from $1,500 to more than $1 million, the sale is expected to fetch over $15 million. The most extraordinary section would be dedicated to Patek Philippe vintage complicated wristwatches, considered the stronghold of Christie’s international watch department. Constituting approximately one-third of the sale, the examples on offer include perpetual calendar wristwatches with chronograph, perpetual calendar, chronographs, split-second chronographs and a minute repeater. Highlighting the section would be a 1957 Patek Philippe second series in pink gold, which comes to the market for the second time since its creation and has been consigned from a distinguished private collection (estimate $1,000,000-1,500,000). Only five other examples of this iconic model are known to date. Preserved in time-warp condition, this particular example combines a virtually unpolished case with a sharp definition as crisp as when the watch left the manufacturer 60 years ago. A beautifully ivorycoloured patina covers the watch dial. Another star would be a historically important yellow gold split seconds chronograph manufactured in 1947. Only three examples of this model are known to exist, all of which were made as special orders.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

ALL THAT GLITTERS

QUIZ

What’s Your

Watch Quotient?

Q1. In July 2011, badminton player Saina Nehwal unveiled an HTSE (High Tech Self Energized) watch that ‘runs on light’. Name the brand. a) Titan b) Swatch c) Tissot d) Hublot Q2. Which brand launched its ﬁrst waterproof wristwatch named ‘Oyster’ in 1926? a) Omega b) Rolex c) Breitling d) TAG Heuer Q3. Which watch company roped in cricketer Kevin Pietersen to launch a new model in New Delhi recently? a) Casio b) Citizen c) Timex d) Movado Q4. Omega’s logo (1) has the following value in the Greek numeric system: a) 200 b) 400 c) 600 d) 800 Q5. Which Bollywood actress endorses the Roger Dubuis watch brand? a) Kajol b) Shilpa Shetty c) Juhi Chawla d) Karisma Kapoor

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

Q9. Cosmonaut Alexei Leonov wore a watch when he made the ﬁrst ever space walk. What was it? a) Omega Speedmaster b) Strela c) Seiko d) Swatch Q10. Which Indian businessman bought the Zenith pocket watch used by Mahatma Gandhi in an auction? a) Mukesh Ambani b) Kumar Mangalam Birla c) Gautam Singhania d) Vijay Mallya Q11. Which watch brand is better known for its electronic music equipment? a) Casio b) Tissot c) Seiko d) Breitling Q12. Which watch brand does cricketer Sachin Tendulkar endorse? a) IWC Watches b) Ulysse Nardin c) Audemars Piguet d) Ofﬁcine Panerai Q13. Gucci recently designed a watch collection featuring a natural material. Name it. a) Bamboo b) Leather c) Feather d) Marble

Q6. The winged hourglass is the oldest logo registered by a watchmaker. Name the brand. a) Breguet b) Cartier c) Longines d) Corum

Q14. A company has created writing instruments in tribute to writers who mentioned its watches in their articles in the 1900s. Name the company. a) Cartier b) Van Cleef & Arpels c) Piaget d) Breguet

Q7. Which company created a wristwatch for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont when he complained about the impracticality of a pocket watch while ﬂying? a) Corum b) Cartier c) Jaeger-LeCoultre d) Ofﬁcine Panerai

Q15. What timepiece was Andy Murray, the ﬁrst British Wimbledon champion in 77 years, wearing when he lifted the trophy? a) Rado b) Omega c) Audemars Piguet d) Rolex

Q8. Which watch brand does swimming sensation Michael Phelps endorse? a) Omega b) TAG Heuer c) Audemars Piguet d) Jaeger-LeCoultre

Q16. Which watch brand has this tagline: It takes a licking and keeps on ticking? a) Titan b) Fastrack c) Nautica d) HMT

ANSWERS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

a b b d a c b a

9. b 10. d 11. a 12. c 13. a 14. d 15. a 16. a

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

NOVELTY

NAGAS The theme of this offset on paper is yantra and the style is symbolic

BINDU The Bindu is a constant feature in Raza’s paintings, and here too, it has inspired the artist

e Artist becomes

THE MUSE

A new line of jewellery by Mamta Malhotra Grover pays an ode to artist SH Raza

he year 2008 was a very special year for jewellery designer Mamta Malhotra Grover. It was the year she met artist SH Raza, the inspiration for her latest bespoke line of jewellery, titled Illumination. Grover says when she saw the artist for the ﬁrst time, over lunch at his home in Paris, she instantly fell in love with what he conceived and painted. Not that it was easy getting through to him. Grover had to struggle to, ﬁrst, get his number and, then, an appointment. “I was so glad to see him in person because I have always been inspired by his work and wanted to get to know him better. His sensibility, the throw of colours, the geometric shapes— everything has always left me amazed. But after meeting him, I was inspired to create a jewellery line that replicated his work,” she says. The limited-edition pieces of jewellery-art, inspired by Raza’s famous Yoni, Nagas and the Bindu, comprise an assortment of pendants, neckpieces, bracelets and armbands in sterling silver, with a layer of protective enamel-

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

ling. Rubies, emeralds and sapphires, along with Swarovski crystals, adorn the collection. Grover says she will also be introducing the same designs in diamonds soon. Ask her about the pricing and she says it’s much lower than the paintings they are inspired by. “Not everybody will understand the collection. I would say it’s not your conventional kind of jewellery line. Having said that, I am happy that a couple of people have actually selected pieces for their nuptials,” says the designer, who claims to have a temperament that’s very similar to that of Raza. “He is versatile, colourful and meditative, like me. In fact, when I met him, he told me he meditates and gives birth to many of his ideas,” she says. Grover showed all the pieces at an exhibition in New Delhi in early October. Now that the show is over, the pieces can be viewed at her studio in Gurgaon, by appointment only. “One paints because one adores and loves life. When a painting is made into a piece of jewellery, both its value

GERMINATION An acrylic on canvas that was made in the year 1922

and beauty get enhanced. It becomes an object of adornment. My experience of working with Mamta has been satisfying, since the work has been done with sensitivity and care,” says Raza, about Grover’s jewellery-art. Little wonder that though there are other artists like MF Husain, Satish Gujral and Bharti Kher whom she admires, Raza remains Grover’s favourite. “I think it’s the colours of his paintings that draw my attention. The deep reds and oranges ignite my imagination,” she says, looking at one of the paintings in front of her. “Just look at the beautiful big bindu. It is so simple, yet it says and means so much. I am inspired just looking at it from a distance. Every time I look at it, it gives me happiness,” she says, remembering how when she was going through a rough period in her life, she painted the walls of her house in bright colours. “It brought instant gratiﬁcation and uplifted my mood. There is nothing more cheerful to see than a splash of your favourite bright colour. I saw a sudden change in my mood and that of my children and it’s a simple way of bringing the happiness back,” she says. Ayesha Singh

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 25

ALL THAT GLITTERS

REPORT

EVENT

The Show

STOPPERS As lights dimmed at the ramp, a magical world of jewellery lit up at IIJW 2013 by Nidhi Raj Singh

he offerings at the fourth edition of India International Jewellery Week 2013 (IIJW) didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to follow any rules. The designers and jewellery houses mixed inďŹ&#x201A;uences and elements with disparate cultures, creating individualistic cauldrons of wedding looks. Organised by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), the show was held at Grand Hyatt, Mumbai, in August. GJEPC brand ambassador Sonam Kapoor looked like a million bucks as she inaugurated the show, wearing a navy blue gown and a dazzling diamond neckpiece created by designer Nirav Modi. The show was supported by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and PC Jeweller. As 21 jewellery houses and designers unfolded their creations on the ramp, trends started trickling down. Traditional crafts like polki, meenakari and carved precious stones shared the limelight with 3D ornaments and chic diamond jewellery. Hair jewellery, maang tikas, bajubands and rani haars made a comeback. The show began with Modi showcasing his inimitable diamond and precious stones jewellery. Sushmita Sen walked the ramp for Charu Jewels, wearing a choker with an emerald heart set amid three strands of alternating pearls and emeralds. Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas presented a collection that was inspired by the undying allure of Rajasthan in Indian cinema. Fittingly, Kangna Ranaut, Vidyut Jamwal and Sharmila Tagore were the showstoppers here. Diamonds, rubies and pearls took centre stage; the collection had raani haars created with rows of pearls,

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

CHARU JEWELS

Sushmita Sen wears a choker with an emerald centre

LAXMI JEWELLERY

Diamond choker-cum-necklace studded with a single ruby

SHOBHA SHRINGAR JEWELLERS Antique gold cummerbund and an intricate ornament for the plait

AAVRITI R JAIN & SIDDHARTH DASPAN Long neckpiece with large beads and gold earrings doing double duty as a maang tika

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 27

ALL THAT GLITTERS

REPORT

PALLAVI FOLEY

Floral jewellery with pearls draped to create a three-dimensional ornament

BIRDHICHAND GHANSHYAMDAS

Jhoomars and chokers were extended to bibs with fort motifs

DERAWALA

Shobhita Dhulipala wears a rani haar with a large pendant with a Radha-Krishna painting

Mesh-inspired earrings used as head jewellery and micro-thin chains do the trick

Karisma Kapoor wearing a gleaming diamond neckpiece, rings and bracelet 28

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

Diamonds and rubies in a web around the neck, and a cummerband and hair jewellery

jhoomars that modelled themselves on the domes of Amer Fort, haath phools and satlada haar with polkis and carved emeralds, as well as maatha patti and bajubands. The ‘Shezmin’ collection by designer Pallavi Foley for Abharan Jewellers saw a dramatic line in pearl jewellery. The Derawala collection had long rani haar with a large, hand-painted pendant of Radha-Krishna. Kashi Jewellers used innovative techniques such as invisible plating and pressure settings. Others brands that showcased their work included Gehna Jewels, Shringar-House of Mangalsutra, Shobha Shringar Jewellers and Auro Gold along with 24 budding designers from GIA, National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, International Gemological Institute, and Indian Institute of Gems &

SABOO FINE JEWELS

KAYS JEWELS

GIA

APALA

A fusion of kundan technique and antique tribal designs

D NAVINCHANDRA

Kristina Akheeva in a gold choker with 3D diamond ﬂowers in the centre

PRISHA BY RASHI ROCHWANI

Jewellery, Mumbai.

A kundan-polki set studded with large pearls and ruby drops

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 29

ALL THAT GLITTERS

HISTORY

50 years of

Carrera

Carrera remains the standard-bearer of TAG Heuer’s motorsports pedigree by Nidhi Raj Singh

t was a sunny morning in 1962; Jack Heuer, the great grandson of TAG Heuer founder Edouard Heuer, was the ofﬁcial time-keeper at ‘12 Hours of Sebring’, America’s oldest motorsport endurance race. That day, a chance meeting with endurance racers Ricardo and Pedro Rodriguez changed Jack’s life and the world of horology. The Rodriguez brothers spoke glowingly of La Carrera Panamericana Mexico Road Race, the world’s most gruelling open-road endurance competition. The race had been discontinued in 1954 for being too dangerous, but its name appealed to Jack (“elegant, dynamic, easily pronounced in all languages and charged with emotion”) and he decided to create a watch that paid tribute to it. A year after his meeting with the brothers, Jack turned his attention to creating a chronograph that catered to the speciﬁc needs of professional motor-racing drivers. A long-time follower of the sport, he knew exactly what drivers needed: a wide-open, easy-to-read dial and a shock-resistant and waterproof case tough enough for even the most intense road wear. The new forms, materials and techniques of the 60s inspired the design. Looking to create a watch that was

totally motorsports-driven and stripped of needless ornamentation, Jack borrowed heavily from the geometric purity of Oscar Niemeyer’s new architecture, the sensual lines of an Eero Saarinen building and the uncluttered aesthetics of pop art. All these were firmly rooted in the code of motorsports, such as the black and white of vintage dashboard counters or the perforated leather gloves favoured by racing car drivers. With Jack’s vision and the efforts of his hard-working team, the first Carrera chronograph—a stunning black and white ‘Panda’ edition—was launched in 1963. Unfortunately, Ricardo did not live to see the piece; he died in a car accident in 1962. His brother Pedro did see the chronograph, but he too died in a car crash in 1971. Fitted with a tachymetre, the timepiece became an instant hit with the racers of Europe and America. Fifty years later, the Carrera remains one of the luxury watches most coveted by collectors. Since the beginning, the Carrera has been a trendsetter. It was the first chronograph to display the date in a window (earlier, this appeared on the dial). It was also the first automatic chronograph—an invention that TAG Heuer patented in 1969. The chronographs that

A long-time follower of car-racing, Jack Heuer knew exactly what was needed when he set out to create the Carrera: an easy-to-read dial and a tough, shock-resistant and waterproof case

2013

A new TAG Heuer Carrera collection is launched at Baselworld 2013. It comprises the Carrera MikroPendulum, the Carrera MikroPendulumS and the Carrera Calibre 1887 Chronograph Jack Heuer editions.

e Journey From 1963 to now: A tale of innovative technology and design savoir-faire

1960s

The design of the original 1963 Carrera was inspired by the instrument panel of a racing car, where the key was legibility and clarity. Being designed for motor racing meant that the watch had to be a chronograph (that is, include a stopwatch feature) and include a tachymeter scale, allowing speed to be calculated.

1970s

The third-generation of Carrera watches were known as ‘Barrel’ case Carreras due to the stout design of the case. They came with either a Calibre 12 or 15 movements and the blue, gold and fume versions had a distinctive Cotes de Geneve dial.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

1990s

Carrera re-edition, a faithful reproduction of the original 1963 Carrera, was unveiled. This was the ﬁrst watch under TAG Heuer ownership to be launched with the Heuer logo.

1980s

The Heuer Carrera Military Aviation was launched in 1984 with a military calibre called the Lemania 5100

2000s

A heritage-inspired collection was launched. This borrowed the design of the original watch but had a 3-mm larger case, powered by a Calibre 17 automatic movement.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 31

ALL THAT GLITTERS

HISTORY

“We’ll engineer Carrera with our in-house movements”

n conversation with Franck Dardenne, general manager, TAG Heuer India:

Q. Tell us about the Carrera’s journey, from being a favourite with car-racers to touching the man of substance in public domain? A. Our journey from being a race timekeeper to a watchmaker was long but interesting. We began designing watches purely for the racers but soon watch enthusiasts got fascinated with what they saw on racers’ wrists and wanted to have the same. It was quite a natural reaction and a general progression for the Carrera. Q. What’s the USP of the Carrera? A. Owning a TAG Heuer Carrera watch puts you in the same position as the racers and sportpersons you admire. This makes it a bestseller all over the world. Another thing is the watch’s versatility: you can wear it to ofﬁce and then go practice your sport at the end of the day. This is why Jack Heuer chose Carrera as its name, back in 1963. Besides being easy to pronounce, it stands for passion for racing and sports.

Lastly, consider the brand’s precision and design. Just like car engines, the mechanism of these watches constantly evolves but the watch design (just like the car body) remains faithful to the original. Today, the TAG Heuer calibre 1887 powers most of the chronographs but the design is faithful to the ﬁrst Carrera. Q. What does the future hold for the Carrera? A. We have just received some Carrera Flyback vintage watches that were inspired by the dashboards that TAG Heuer produced in the 1950s. Those watches are ﬁtted with a calibre 36 movement, two small dials at 3 o’clock and at 9 o’clock. Shah Rukh Khan went for the silver one when we showed him our new models in August. So, we decided to launch a limited-edition collection. You’ll get to see it in a few months. Without disclosing secrets, I can tell you that we are engineering Carrera with our in-house movements to design some wonderful pieces. This is to keep the brand youthful despite its 50th anniversary.

“Even before we entered the Indian markets in 2002, we noticed that well-travelled Indians were fond of our watches and as the affinity grew, TAG Heuer decided to create a subsidiary in India.” came before it were hand-wound. Over the years, TAG Heuer has continued to put most of its innovations into the Carrera, which is now powered by calibre 1887, a movement developed in-house. It has achieved an accuracy of 1/10th of a second and 1/100th with the Carrera Mikrograph, 1/1000th with the Carrera Mikrotimer, and 1/10000th with the Carrera Mikrogirder. For its golden anniversary this year, the brand launched at the Basel Fair the Mikrotourbillons, the first tourbillon to achieve 1/100th of a second accuracy. Given the many legends attached to the Carrera name, the company decided to bring them all together and compile a collection at the TAG Heuer Museum at La Chaux de Fonds, the Swiss city located in the canton of Neuchâtel in the 1990s. While putting together the collection, the TAG officials realised that a gold watch from the 1970s collection was missing. They began searching for that model. Out of all other possibilities, they zeroed in on the Ferrari race events where TAG Heuer was not only the timekeeper but also presented gold chronographs to the win-

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

ning teams. They then traced those racers who could possibly be the owners of one such watch. Thus began a long series of meetings. “We had a hard time convincing the racers and their families to part ways with their prized possessions and help us display them in the museum,” Franck Dardenne, general manager, TAG Heuer India recalls. They ﬁnally convinced one driver to sell his watch and bring it to the museum. In 1996, the brand re-launched this iconic watch, now powered with TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph. ‘50 years of Carrera’ was also celebrated in India with brand ambassador Shah Rukh Khan and Indian collectors present for the event. Talking about the relation that the brand shares with India, Dardenne says, “Even before we entered the Indian markets in 2002, we noticed that well-travelled Indians were fond of our watches. As the afﬁnity grew, TAG Heuer decided to create a subsidiary in India. With Khan consistently supporting our brand for the past 10 years, it has become even more popular.” Guess even non-racers want a slice of the Carrera’s precision and design.

ALL THAT GLITTERS

CONCEPT

Sometimes it pays to be

Swiss horologists have created new mechanical watches for men that will, well, stand the test of time

MECH ANICAL by Supriya Dravid

hink of it as digital desire at your fingertips. Well, not exactly fingertips. It’s more like a meticulously-crafted grip around the wrist by mechanical watches crafted with jewels, gears, and words such as ‘Rattrapante’ and ‘ebauche’ giving it cachet. Wound automatically or by hand, these timepieces store energy in a spring which in turn moves a series of gears, with each one making the hands turn. The escapement controls the pace at which the spring unwinds. Take Omega’s new mechanical movement, introduced in the Seamaster Aqua Terra. It is resistant to magnetic fields greater than 1.5 tesla (15,000 gauss), which far exceeds the levels achieved by any previous watch move-

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 35

ALL THAT GLITTERS

CONCEPT

Sports Star Swatch’s Sistem51 watch is considered to be the world’s ﬁrst mechanical watch with entirely automated assembly

Another interesting revelation this year comes from a less talked about brand— Swatch’s Sistem51 watch. Hoping to achieve for mechanical watch production what they did for quartz production 30 years ago, this is perhaps the world’s ﬁrst mechanical movement with an entirely automated assembly. The watch has only 51 components, all of which are anchored to a central screw. The Sistem51’s movement is made entirely from a material called ARCAP, an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc with anti-magnetic qualities that prevents the movement from needing adjustments over time. The Sistem51 is automatically wound, has a 90hour power reserve, and features a peripheral bidirectional rotor. This allows you to see some of the movement components through the caseback.

If you want something a lot more formal, there is Harry Winston’s highly reﬁned mechanical watch—the 20-piece limited-edition Histoire de Tourbillon, which has a tri-axial tourbillon. Its intricate mechanism is housed in an 18-carat white gold case. If you need something a bit more outré, opt for any of the 288 pieces of the self-winding Blancpain Le Brassus Carrousel Volant Une. The precisely engineered watch’s platinum case houses a oneminute ﬂying carousel complication, and a 120hour power reserve, which offers an alternative way of arranging the gears resulting in a spinning escapement complication that is functionally identical to a tourbillon. The watch features automatic winding, a power reserve indicator and the date,

Harry Winston’s highly reﬁned mechanical watch, the Histoire de Tourbillon, has a tri-axial tourbillon. It is an amazing engineering feat that ensures superb performance and split-second accuracy. is intricate mechanism is limited to only 20 pieces.

Tech Trooper Harry Winston’s Histoire de Tourbillon with a tri-axial tourbillon is edgier than its counterparts

Meticulously-crafted mechanical watches store energy in a spring, and must be wound automatically or by hand. is feeds its energy into a series of gears that convertes energy into movement. ment. It shows off a transparent sapphire crystal in its caseback that allows full view of the Co-Axial calbier 8508. TAG Heuer’s Carrera MikroPendulum, meanwhile, has two magnetic pendulums replacing the hairsprings, one for telling time and the other for timekeeping. Composed of 454 working components and based on TAG Heuer-patented technology, the watch’s chain turns at 12Hz and its chronograph chain at 50Hz (60 minutes power reserve). The case is forged from a revolutionary chrome and cobalt alloy used in aviation and surgery. The chronograph tourbillon, said to be the world’s fastest, controls 1/100th of a second, beats 360,000 an hour and rotates 12 times a minute. Breguet—under the stewardship of Marc A. Hayek—dazzles watch aﬁcionados with the updated La Chronometrie Ref. 7727 10Hz. It de-

livers impressive precision, thanks to a balance frequency of 10Hz— the first time that such a high frequency has been applied in a non-chronograph watch, since the purpose is to improve the precision and stability of rate of a conventional mechanical watch. The hand-wound calibre 574DR is fitted with a double balance spring, pallet lever and escape wheel; all in specially prepared silicon. The main advantages of silicon components are that they can be manufactured to a level of high precision and are extremely lightweight and non-magnetic. The watch honours the over two centuries of the brand’s stylistic tradition with a signature fluted caseband, welded lugs, engineturned dial, open-tipped Breguet hands, secret signature and a unique number; all of which are identifying features that express the essence of a Breguet timepiece.

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

CONCEPT

Precision Power

Sharp Shooter

Breguet’s La Chronometrie Ref. 7727 10Hz delivers impressive precision, thanks to a balance frequency of 10Hz

TAG’s Carrera MikroPendulum is rumoured to be the world’s fastest tourbillon and beats 360,000 an hour

Breguet has dazzled watch aﬁcionados with La Chronometrie Ref. 7727 10Hz. is watch delivers impressive precision, thanks to a balance frequency of 10Hz. is is the ﬁrst time that such high frequency has been applied in a non-chronograph watch.

Gold Star Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak has an open caseback that showcases the beautiful 3120 selfwinding movement 38

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

all in one 43.5-millimetre platinum package. Audemars Piguet’s updated version of the Gerald Genta designed Royal Oak has an 18 carat white gold case with 470 brilliant-cut diamonds, a diamond-paved gold dial and a stylish blue crocodile leather strap. It has larger-than-life proportions and is engineered to ensure protection from magnetic waves. The caseback is open, revealing the calibre 3120 self-winding movement that beats at 3Hz or 21,600 vibrations per hour. The bridges are ﬁnished with Cotes de Geneve, and the inverted snailing on the bridges with circular graining on the main plate is handmade. Automatic winding of the mainspring is handled by an engraved

22-ct rose gold monobloc oscillating weight. The ‘Grand Tapisserie’ motif pattern, the white gold applied hour-markers and long Royal Oak hands with luminescent hands, make the dial both easy to read and to admire. While buying a mechanical watch, do ensure it carries the Geneva seal. Most new offerings are usually updated versions of old watches, with manufacturers collaborating with other factories or outsourcing the mechanisms. Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange & Söhne are some of the brands that can boast of integrated manufacturing. Given that a mechanical watch works both as an investment and a heirloom for the future, it’s always better to look closely at its past.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 39

CLASSIC

ALL THAT GLITTERS

QUIRKY

OUTDOORSY

TRENDY

GEEKY

SPLIT PERS ONALITY

by Hari Govind Nair

YOU MIGHT BE DOUBLING UP AS A DEEP SEA DIVER AFTER YOUR DAY ENDS AS AN INVESTMENT

BANKER; GET A WATCH THAT MULTI-TASKS TOO. FIND OUT HOW.

Photographs by GETTY IMAGES

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 41

CLASSIC

ALL THAT GLITTERS

QUIRKY

FOR REFINED MEN WHO LIKE TO HOST A POWER LUNCH AND LEAD IT TOO

OUTDOORSY

FOR MEN WHO LOVE TO TREK THROUGH DENSE FORESTS FOLLOWED BY A DEEP-SEA DIVING SESSION

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER COMPRESSOR EXTREME LAB2 ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST II This watch is nothing less than historic. It carries forward the DNA of Oyster Perpetual Datejust, the ﬁrst self-winding, waterproof chronometer wristwatch to display the date on the dial, created in 1945. The date on the Datejust II is displayed in a window at 3 o’clock and changes automatically at midnight, and that too in just few thousandths of a second. It also has a Cyclops lens to magnify date, two and a half time. The interesting fact: its 41mm Oyster case is clamped shut like an oyster shell and can survive under water up to 100 metres. The reason: its screw-down back, bezel and a screw-down waterproof winding crown. Its bracelet is worth mentioning. First introduced in the 1930s, this robust yet comfortable metal bracelet has broad, ﬂat three-piece links and you can chose different dial colours in various permutations.

Sir James Clark Ross would’ve loved it. The Master Compressor Extreme Lab2, heir to the 1958 Chronometre Geophysic, has an undeniable link with the Master Compressor, an out-and-out sports watch with thoroughly tested mechanisms and functions. But a maze of mechanisms doesn’t necessarily mean it is as complicated as a Polar explorer’s chart. The watch comes with a user-friendly function selector located at the crown and a digital minutes counter for better readability. A clearly visible power reserve and GMT function keeps this chronograph strokes ahead of the competition. All this is housed within a rugged watch case with an external chassis made of TiVan15, a light titanium alloy. It comes with a scratch-proof zirconium ceramic bezel. An innovative interchangeable strap system with a double pin buckle makes changing it faster, easier and safer, even on the go. Land ahoy!

TISSOT T-TOUCH EXPERT

IWC PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC Not only is it tough to create a classic yet simple watch, it’s also tough to carry off an understated style statement with élan. IWC Portoﬁno Automatic collection helps you create that balance, better still if you are a real power broker. Its mechanical automatic movement ticks away in its discreet 40mm case. The no-frills design for hour, minute and second hands and round case make the watch look slimmer. This watch is available in two versions—steel and red gold. You can choose between silver-plated dial or black dial and steel bracelet with high-quality Milanese mesh or an alligator leather strap. Also, the back of red gold model comes with an exquisite engraving of the harbour at Portoﬁno.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

Over 150 years of watchmaking experience means you can trust a Tissot to keep time even when falling free from a chopper, especially with a T-Touch Expert on your wrist. With the kind of features that the watchmaker has managed to cram in, this model is a unique highprecision instrument. If you are on a trip to scale the Everest, you can access all of the watch’s 15 functions with a light touch of the screen. The functions include an altimeter (feet and metres), altitude difference meter, chronograph (split and cumulative time), compass, two alarms, thermometer (Celsius and Fahrenheit), barometer, date and time (12 or a 24 hours), perpetual calendar, countdown timer and a backlight. All this is encased in a titanium case that bears an electronic LCD. Water-resistant up to 100 metres, you would not regret wearing it while climbing mountains or diving in a shark cage off the coast of Cape Town.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 43

TRENDY

ALL THAT GLITTERS

QUIRKY

FOR THOSE WHO DON’T JUST LOVE BEING AHEAD OF FASHION BUT INSPIRE OTHERS TOO

GEEKY

FOR THOSE WHO ENJOY TWO THINGS: THEIR GEEK TAG AND STAR WARS-THEMED PARTIES

MB&F LEGACY MACHINE N°1 HUBLOT MP-02 KEY OF TIME

What do you expect from a brand that has built its reputation by creating three-dimensional watches? The creator of holograms, Dennis Gabor on steroids? This time, however, MB&F has decided to keep it simple with the LM1 model. Maximilian Büsser, founder of MB&F, wanted to create a timepiece that he would have wanted to own if born 100 years ago. With no Robert Zemeckis of Back to the Future to inspire him, Büsser took the cue from 19th century pocket watches, naming his epiphanous new creation Legacy Machine N°1 or LM1. Its domed dials reinforce visual references to the golden age of watchmaking. It features a sedately oscillating (2.5Hz) large diameter balance with a traditional Breguet overcoil suspended from majestic twin arches. This brings the regulating mechanism into full view, but without any apparent connection to the movement. Both hours and minutes on each of the two sub-dials can be set independently of each other. Dual time zone complications usually do not allow independent adjustments of minutes. But, not in this timeless watch.

What if a watch, by means of its mechanics, gives you the ability to manage the passing of time in the manner you wish? Sounds futuristic? Not if you have the Hublot MP-02 Key of Time watch on your wrist. Three differently positioned crowns enable you to modulate speed at which hours and minutes pass. If you want to enjoy every single second, just slow down the speed of the watch hands; divide time by four, whereby one conventional hour is represented as a quarter of an hour on the watch display. If you want ‘real’ time, select normal hand speed to retain ‘standard’ time, whereby one conventional hour equates to one hour on the dial. If you are impatiently waiting at a rendezvous and want time to pass faster, you can accelerate the hand speed— multiply time by four, whereby a conventional quarter of an hour is represented as one hour on the MP-02 Key of Time’s display. This has been made possible by a mechanical memory built into the watch’s movement. In addition, it also has a vertical ﬂying tourbillon cage with the particulars of every second’s indicator on its edge. Do we hear the HG Wells in you gasp?

AUDEMARS PIGUET EXTRA-THIN With a case as thin as 6.70mm, Audemars Piguet Extra-Thin collection is Bette Franke on your arm. All ﬁve watches in this collection have Jules Audemars’s barrel bridge that contributes to the thinness of the movement while ensuring a power reserve of 40 hours —quite extraordinary for this model. As it has a reverser, the winding of the watch is bidirectional and no ball bearings were used to reduce the thickness. When the rotor turns, a distinctive sound is produced, as its lateral play, due to the oscillating weight, is limited by a peripheral ring rolling on four jewelled runners ﬁxed to the manipulate. Six inertia blocks adjust the balance with variable movements vibrating at a frequency of 19,800 vph.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

URWERK UR-1001 ZEIT DEVICE Urwerk loves to create something that stands out in a crowd. With the UR-1001 Zeit Device, the brand has created its own way of measuring time. It’s extraordinary complication can measure and quantify time in its entirety, marking the seconds, minutes, hours, day/night, date, month, years and centuries; all the way to a monumental 1,000 years. Its AlTiN (aluminium titanium nitride)-coated case houses a constellation of indicators that include orbiting satellites and a comet-like flying retrograde. The hour satellite complication has a flying design as there is no top bridge supporting the carousel. The retrograde minute hand is fixed to a sprung ring around the circumference of the satellite complication, pushed along a guide-rail by the hour satellite. The day/night indicator is a rotating disc marked with black Super-LumiNova for the night and white brushedruthenium for the day and a striped mix for dusk or dawn. The power reserve indicator monitors the quantum of power in the mainspring up to 39 hours and a red warning zone reminds you when the watch needs refuelling.

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

EXPERT VOICE

Age-appropriate jewellery

What’s that?

ALPANA GUJRAL Jewellery Designer

Just like your ensemble, your jewellery too switches gears with age. Let our expert guide you.

T TEENS 20s

here are many things to consider when buying jewellery, such as lifestyle, budget, colour and attire preferences. Happily, the one thing you don’t have to worry about is age-appropriateness. Because while there are definite rules that apply to dressing for one’s age, there are no such guidelines when it comes to jewellery. Here, it all boils down to taste. I encourage individuals to explore their personal style when making their jewellery selection and to take into consideration their body type, lifestyle and personal preference. That said, there is absolutely no jewellery that is off limits due to one’s age. In fact, as a woman blossoms from teenager to adulthood, she gains more confidence and presence, and thereby can wear chunkier and larger jewellery pieces. Trends certainly play a factor, when it comes to choosing long earrings or cocktail rings or cuffs but, in no way, should statistical demographic influence one’s selection. Jewellery should reflect individuality, and this hold true at all ages. That said, it’s important for jewellery to complement a woman’s lifestyle. Women play so many different roles today, whether it is as a mother, businesswoman, homemakers or philanthropists—it’s important to have jewellery that is as easily adaptable and allows them to switch hats with ease. As I take you through the different demographics, it’s not about dainty or chunky, or stone preference or size, sometimes it just comes down to the number of pieces that may be appropriate. At certain ages,

less may be best and quantity may grow with time.

TEENS For example, a girl in her teens can get away with wearing little jewellery, maybe just earrings or bangles. That’s fun and fresh enough, and keeps the girl from taking on too ‘grown-up’ a feel. Also, smaller pieces may be sensible given the hectic lifestyle of school, friends and extracurricular activities. Basically, a young girl’s jewellery should be as easy and carefree as she is.

WOMEN IN THEIR 20s As one moves into her 20s and joins the workforce, a women should look for jewellery that can take her from day to evening. She would need to find pieces that complement both her position and field of work. At junior levels, a cocktail ring or pearls are a great way to complete the look and are something that look good both in office and at an evening out with colleagues or friends. Jewellery that is easily adaptable is key, as young ladies develop both personally and professionally.

WOMEN IN THEIR 30s A woman in her 30s is growing into her individuality. She is more comfortable in her skin and, therefore, wants her pieces to make a style statement. She may start wearing more statement pieces, such as chunky neckpieces that stand out in a crowd or a bold cuff that offsets gentle pearls or something more boutique than mainstream.

While there is nothing called age-appropriate jewellery, women of different age groups do view, and hence wear, their jewellery differently

30s

40s

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While a woman in her 30s is juggling life, a woman in her 40s is balancing it. She has more responsibility and presence than before. Her role in the world is more signiﬁcant and impacts several others, whether at home or in the workplace. For a woman in her 40s, jewels are something she buys for herself. It’s a feel-good factor that makes her feel special. The purchase is invariably well thought out and is done more with longevity in mind than a trend. Statement pieces with emeralds and polkis look good on a lady who is active through the day and socializes most evenings. She diligently selects her necklace according to the neckline of her outﬁt and knows that long earrings will elongate her neck. This is a lady who knows how to accentuate her positives.

WOMEN OVER 50 A woman in her fifties has got it all together. She is the artist behind the masterpiece. She is self-assured and extremely secure in who she is. She doesn’t see jewellery as clothes or make-up that has to be altered with age. She follows the beat of her own drum and wears what she pleases; conﬁdent enough to combine ﬁne jewellery with casual clothes. Not giving into trends, she understands the nuances of jewellery design and can appreciate the piece on a whole other level. By now, she has built up quite a collection of jewellery pieces, so she has separate pieces for day and evening. She may even start looking at passing jewellery down to the youngsters in her life. In other words, jewellery for a woman at any age is special. Especially for the Indian woman, whose heritage and culture ensures that jewels are passed down from generation to generation.

50s Photo courtesy: CARTIER, TANISHQ MIA(Above)

WOMEN IN THEIR 40s

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

INTERVIEW

“Traditional jewellery never goes out of fashion”

“Today, we are one of the biggest names in the jewellery business in South India but the family business began on a humble note. Today we have a couple of showrooms and 300strong staff”

GOING FOR GOLD

Vummidi Jithendra ﬂanked by models at one of his Chennai stores

1900

20-something Vummidi Bangaru Chetty opens a small shop and a manufacturing unit in Gudiyatham in Vellore district of Tamil Nadu; crafts pooja thaalis items

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1953

Moves to corner shop on NSC Bose Road; designs lightweight jewellery created by Bengali craftsmen and traditional pieces by Tamil Nadu and Kerala craftsmen

1962

V Raghunath and his wife expand the business by setting large shop at Panagal Park, later moving to a showroom in T Nagar; continue making accessories for mangalyam apart from jewellery pieces

1981

Opens an exclusive showroom at Rani Seethai Hall, Anna Salai on December 7; adding exclusive showroom for silverware and silver jewellery in same hall in 2004

ummidi Jithendra, managing partner of Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers (VBJ), looks uncomfortable as he poses for the cameras, flanked by two bejewelled models. The occasion is a store re-launch and his self-consciousness is palpable. But the awkwardness is only fleeting, and excitement and passion take over once he starts talking about VBJ. A gemologist trained in Belgium, Jithendra is a fourthgeneration member of the VBJ family of jewellers. This year, the family revamped the main showroom located in Chennai’s Anna Salai area, segregating the collection into gold, diamond, platinum and silver jewellery sections. Though one of the biggest names in south India today, the family business began on a humble note. The story started with Vummidi Bangaru Chetty crafting small accessories for his customers’ pooja thalis. Next, he graduated to creating jewellery and silverware. Back in 1900, the founder of VBJ would have found it difficult to believe that his small shop in Vellore would one day be-

come a multi-million rupee company. Today, VBJ is also jewellery designer to the gods, literally. “Yes, we make jewellery and accessories for temples the world over,” Jithendra says. Speaking about the company’s expansion plans, the founder’s great-grandson tells Nidhi Raj Singh that VBJ plans to set up ﬁve showrooms in the next ﬁve years. Q. Where did the journey start for VBJ? A. Our story began some 113 years ago. My great grandfather Vummidi Bangaru Chetty set up a small shop and a manufacturing unit in north Arcot, Vellore. In the beginning, his team of goldsmiths and silversmiths used to make manis (bells), kuthu vilakkus (lamp) and thambalams (worship plates). With expansion on his mind, he moved to Chennai where he used a portion of his home on Govindappa Naicken Street as a jewellery shop. He later moved

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

INTERVIEW

GOLD COST

GODSEND

The Surya katari sword weighs 1,768 grams and is studded with precious gemstones

“We have crafted items for Sri Venkateswara Temple, New Jersey; Aurora Temple, Chicago; Shri Venkateswara (Balaji) Temple, Chicago; Sri Venkateswara Swami (Balaji) Temple, Greater Chicago”

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GIRL’S BEST FRIENDS

A ruby necklace and Bridal Bijoux gold jewellery collection comprising rings and kamarbands

to a bigger set-up on NSC Bose Road in 1953. This was popularly known as the ‘corner shop’. Apart from traditional pieces crafted by artisans from Tamil Nadu and Kerala, he also offered lightweight jewellery designed by Bengali craftsmen. His sons, V Sreeramalu Chetty, V Anjaneyulu Chetty and V Anantham Chetty, joined him later. They soon expanded and opened a showroom at Panagal Park in 1962. But then, the business got split among the three brothers. After the split, my father Vummidi Raghunath (V Anjaneyulu’s son) scripted a turnaround. Steering a small family-run business into a company, he found his best companion in my mother, V Shyamala Raghunath. She not only guided kaarigars on design aspects, but also took keen interest in the business. Together, they opened the ﬁrst showroom in Rani Seethai Hall at Anna Salai on December 7, 1981. Today my brother, Vummidi Amarendra, and I assist our parents as managing partners. Q. VBJ crafts items for temples too.

How did that happen? A. We started with crafting gold and silver items for the pooja thali, so designing for deities was like an evolutionary step-up for us. Our silverware division, Vummidi Silverware, receives orders, crafts and ensures timely delivery of the offertory. Our ﬁrst order was ﬁve sets of silver doors for Sri Venkateswara temple located at Bridge Water, New Jersey. Later, they ordered silver idols of Gaja vahana, Sarpa vahana and Garuda vahana. So far, we have crafted silver kavacham for deities of Aurora temple, Chicago, and the kreedam (crown) for the principal deity of Sri Venkateswara (Balaji) Temple, Chicago. This handcrafted crown set in 24-carat gold-plated silver is embellished with diamonds and pearls. Recently, we designed a Surya katari sword for Sri Venkateswara Swami (Balaji) Temple, Greater Chicago. Q. Tell us more about this sword. It sounds special. A. It’s special indeed. According to folklore, Surya katari swords were offered to temples

VBJ also has a range of diamond and platinum jewellery

by ruling kings. We, thus, decided to create something intricate. Weighing 1,768 grams, this lofty gold offertory is embellished with diamonds and rubies. It was designed by our head designer, Vijay, who has been associated with VBJ for the last 13 years. He was helped by another designer Ganesh, whose expertise helped bring this design to life. Q. How many outlets do you have now and where are they located? A. We have two showrooms in Chennai. Our main store in Anna Salai is dedicated exclusively to jewellery. We have recently revamped it. Our showroom in Anna Nagar, opened last year, is sprawled across 4,275 square feet. We train our store staff to deliver professional service with a personalised touch. We also have an e-shop (www.vummidi.com) where customers can choose from a wide array of designs and shop online. Q. Tell us more about your jewellery. A. Our range includes traditional kundan, nakshi and antique ﬁnished jewellery, as well as

trendy diamond and platinum jewellery. VBJ collections are true works of art, transforming inspirations from nature into creations. Our temple jewellery takes inspiration from traditional dance forms, gods and goddesses. Although our specialisation lies in gold jewellery, we do have a great range of diamond and platinum jewellery as well. Our gold jewellery is hallmarked and conforms to international standards. All solitaires are certified and sealed by world-renowned gemological laboratories such as Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD) and Gemological Institute of America (GIA). We use best quality diamonds such as DEF (colour grading chart), IF (internally flawless), VVS 1 & 2 clarity ratings (very, very slightly included) sourced from renowned companies like Forevermark. We use precious stones like rubies, emeralds, sapphires, tourmalines and pearls too, sourcing them from certified gemological laboratories from across the world. My brother Amarendra and I, qualified gemologists from Belgium, keep a strict quality check.

AT FINGER TIPS

A large pear and diamond ring from VBJ

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

INTERVIEW

“Gold jewellery has always been popular in the south, but recently diamond and platinum jewellery, too, has become a rage. Most women don’t like to think of their gold jewellery as investment and usually do not sell it.”

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

Q. Who designs the jewellery at VBJ? A. I head a team of nine designers, who work at three of our workshops in Coimbatore, Chennai and Mumbai. We have a 300-strong staff. Q. Who’s your target customer? What all has changed at VBJ over the years? A. We design for women and men of all ages and traditions. Yes, we have changed with changing customers’ proﬁle—in terms of our design and marketing strategy. For example, traditionally VBJ was known for its gold jewellery but we diversiﬁed into diamond and platinum jewellery segments to attract younger customers with global sensibilities. Our stores are now open seven days a week keeping in mind young professionals, who have only weekends to shop. We also roped in South Indian actresses like Priya Anand and Pooja Umashankar to endorse our jewellery to create a buzz. Q. What’s the buying trend in South India? A. Gold jewellery has always been popular in the south, but recently diamond and platinum jewellery, too, has become a rage. Modern brides love to wear diamond sets. But, in our opinion, traditional jewellery can never go out of fashion. For

example, handcrafted temple jewellery is an integral part of a traditional Tamil wedding. These are usually passed on as family heirlooms and brides love to inherit them. Q. What’s the best way to invest in gold? A. Gold was and will always be the best investment option though not in the form of jewellery but as gold coins, biscuits and saving schemes. As for jewellery, most women don’t like to think of their gold jewellery as a piece of investment and usually do not sell it. Q. Since you are talking about saving schemes, do you offer such schemes? A. Yes. In fact, we were the very first jewellery outlet in Chennai to introduce a saving scheme. Our wealth starter gold plan helps customers invest certain amount per month and receive gold worth the investment plus a bonus amount on maturity after 15 months. Q. What are your plans? A. The company plans to set up five showrooms over the next five years. These showrooms will have an average carpet area of 4,500 sq ft each. We are also toying with the idea of setting up an outlet outside Tamil Nadu.

ALL THAT GLITTERS

BRAND STORY

STRIKING

GOLD Tata brand Tanishq revolutionised the Indian market with innovative retailing practices that transformed the way jewellery was perceived, and bought, in India by Supriya Sharma

REEL TO REAL

The Tanishq Jodhaa Akbar collection was specially designed for the silver screen epic

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

BRAND STORY

ou know something, Jaya, there are three categories of diamond quality—very, very slight inclusion, very slight inclusion and slight inclusion,” says Amitabh Bachchan in a matter-of-fact tone as he holds up a glittering necklace to light to explain the ﬁner points of a diamond’s cut and clarity to his surprised wife. Out to win her approval for her birthday gift, the superstar rattles off all that he supposedly learnt earlier at the Tanishq store. “If you don’t like this, it can be exchanged at the current diamond price,” Bachchan concludes, before sitting down. His wife hears him out in silence and rewards him with a dazzling smile, “I am impressed.” Mr and Mrs Bachchan may be play-acting on behalf of the brand, which is relying on their star power to grab eyeballs, but the subtler message of making informed purchases

UPPING THE FUN

The Mia collection offers trendy, 9-to-5 wear for the working woman

and getting your money’s worth applies to every Tanishq customer. India’s largest jewellery brand from the Tata stables has, over the last 19 years, earned the trust of the notoriously acquisitive but tight-ﬁsted Indian consumer. A division of Titan Industries, Tanishq’s history is a merit list of innovations and ﬁrsts. The company brought in transparency and professionalism into a largely unregulated scenario, changing the very way jewellery was perceived—and bought—in the country. The story began in the early 1990s, when

Tanishq brought in transparency and professionalism into a largely unregulated scenario, changing the very way jewellery was perceived in the country

DOWN THE YEARS A timeline of Tanishq’s unique jewellery collections

2002

2010

Farah Khan Ali is arguably one of the most talented de-

2005

Unveils Paheli collection, created for the movie Paheli, forays into kundan and meenakari jewellery; introduces Colors, gold jewellery range using traditional kundan and jadau works

Rolls out two collections: Taj inspired by the sculptural beauty of the Taj Mahal and the ﬁrst edition of its more popular workwear jewellery, Mia

2012

Unveils Jodhaa Akbar range designed for its second Bollywood venture and Aria diamond jewellery inspired by ﬂowers

Launches four collections: Affordable Tanishq priced at `10,000-`25,000; Mia 2.0 in modern and ethno-contemporary styles; Ganga diamond collection inspired by the holy river and IVA, ﬁne fashion jewellery worn in Race 2

Introduces Conversations, a range of chunky earrings made of yellow and white gold and precious stones; also unveils Blush, a range of light jewellery crafted in 18-carat gold

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2011

2008 2009

Launches Celeste, an exclusive online service, offering an inventory of 20,000 solitaires

Launches Diva, a pearl and diamond jewellery range, and Collection-G, the 9-to-5 jewellery for working women

2013 Unveils three collections: Inara diamond jewellery; Mia 3.0 and Accessible Tanishq, a range of ﬁne jewellery with starting price of `5,000

Titan sought to diversify into selling jewellery and jewellery watches to the European and American markets. The move was aimed at generating foreign exchange needed to purchase imported equipment to expand the already established watch brand. India was facing a major foreign exchange crisis and little aid could be expected from the government. But the crisis and the lure of the global market declined by the time Tanishq was ready for launch. So Titan decided to tap the domestic market instead. But finding a foothold in the jewellery industry back in 1994 was easier said than done. Branded jewellery was unheard of and, in the absence of national players, the chaotic market was haphazardly controlled by small, local jewellers. Unethical practices such as misrepresentation of quality and undercaratage of gold were rampant. Customers (often blindly) placed their trust in old family jewellers, and big purchases were seen as either an investment or an indulgence meant to be bought for and shown off at weddings. Tanishq’s teething years were riddled with obstacles and its losses ran into crores. Many began to wonder whether Titan should have dabbled in jewellery in the first place. Despite the losses, however, Tanishq doggedly went about setting new business standards and ethics, beginning with informing consumers about unethical practices while offering a transparent and fair business set up as an alternative. This is where the Karatmeter came in. In 1999, Tanishq introduced the first nondestructive method (the traditional methods being rubbing gold on a touchstone or an acid test) to test the purity of the yellow metal. The scientific device, now adopted by many international agencies to certify hallmark gold, uses X-rays to give an exact reading of the purity of gold in minutes. The facility enabled customers to not only check the gold they bought from Tanishq, but even bring their own and have it tested at any Tanishq outlet. Needless to say, many sceptics of branded jewellery left with long faces when they realised that they had been systematically conned by trusted jewellers over the years, not only in weight but also in purity. “Tanishq has been the pioneer in the field of branded jewellery. With extensive research, consumer insights and innovative designs and techniques, we overcame the few hurdles that we faced in the beginning,” says Sandeep Kulhalli,

STARS SHINE DOWN

The new Inara collection promises cosmic swirls and star bursts at affordable prices

Despite initial losses, Tanishq doggedly went about setting new business standards and ethics, beginning with informing consumers about unethical practices

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BRAND STORY

One big reason for Tanishq’s success has been their customized collections catering to every age and income group of their primary customer—the urban Indian woman

SONG OF A RIVER

Sparkling, delicate, rivulet-like, the Ganga collection is inspired by the holy river in its myriad moods

It is not just the sheer variety that is staggering; the frequency with which the brand upgrades and rolls out newer collections is no mean feat either. It is hardly surprising then that the Tanishq design studio frequently bags prestigious design awards. FOR THE DIVA

Deepika Padukone was the brand ambassador for the IVA collection; (right) jewellery from the collection

vice president, retail and marketing, Titan Jewellery Division. Tanishq’s reputation for providing quality gold was replicated with diamonds too. When inconsistencies plagued the diamond market in India back in 2009, Tanishq pioneered a free Diamond Purity Check Campaign. The campaign raised the bar for diamond purity in the country and was carried out across 10 cities in collaboration with HRD Antwerp (Belgium). Special-

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

ist graders from HRD Antwerp appraised the purity of the stones brought in by customers, apart from cleaning, weighing and certifying them. One of the biggest contributions to the brand’s success, however, has been the introduction of customised collections catering to every age and income group of Tanishq’s primary customer—the urban Indian woman. There really is something for everyone here: from the extensive wedding collection to the delicate, rivulet-

like Ganga collection inspired by the holy river in its myriad moods; Blush (which offers 18k pendants and danglers); Conversations for more chunky, eye-catching earrings made of gold, white gold and precious stones; Aria with 300 designs inspired by flowers; Celeste solitaires that come with a Certificate of Authenticity; Accessible Tanishq—a range of gold and diamond jewellery starting at `5,000; the trendy, minimalistic 9-5 wear Mia, Mia 2.0, Mia 3.0 and the gold and diamond Taj collection. In 2012, Tanishq also forayed into fine fashion jewellery with its IVA collection. In July 2013, it brought out a stunning new diamond collection Inara, promising cosmic swirls and star bursts at affordable prices. It is not just the sheer variety that is staggering; the frequency with which the brand upgrades and rolls out new collections is no mean feat either. It is hardly surprising then that the

Tanishq design studio routinely bags prestigious design awards, the last trophy haul being in January 2013. The studio is located at the Titan Industries headquarters in Bangalore and most of its designers are alumni of the National Institute of Design and National Institute of Fashion Technology. “Our designers are encouraged to attend workshops and gain exposure through international travel so that they can make the most of a host of infrastructure facilities,” says Revathi Kant, general manager, design, innovation and development at Tanishq. The brand has frequently played jeweller to Bollywood as well, creating exquisite pieces for many blockbusters. It collaborated with Shah Rukh Khan for his 2005 home production Paheli, crafting beautiful Rajasthani kundan and meenakari jewellery to recreate 19th century Marwar. Intricate necklaces, earrings and kangans made of precious emeralds, rubies, pearls

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BRAND STORY

The AD FACTOR

Blending wit, warmth, sentiment and steering clear of mush, Tanishq ads have always stuck the right chords

The Anniversary Repartee

husband on the tenth “Are you sure about me?” asks a Hussain play a couple Adil anniversary. Tisca Chopra and The husband, who . sion occa dining out to celebrate the s the wisdom of mull fully play ic, ahol admits to be a work he presents a Tanishq getting such an expensive gift (as she might leave him for solitaire to his wife) when he fears er continues as the wife bant witty being so unromantic. The ek by assuring him she expresses her delight tongue-in-che s. won’t leave him for another 10 year

Big B Goes Shopping fo r

The Wedding C ollection

Jewellery that makes you w ant to marry, ad brings to lif says the taglin e the dream of e. And the every parent ing child to th trying to push e altar. A girl an unwillno t in te rested in mar mind after win riage change dow shopping s her at a Tanishq enquiring abou store. She then t the boy her begins parents have meet. The ad been wanting vertisment dr her to ew a lot of atte weren’t too ha ntion though ppy with the ge the feminists ne ra lis the temptatio ation that no n of jewellery woman can re . sist

Where’s the Catch?

on Tanishq diamond jewellery This ad about 15 per cent discount being on the suspicious cusis quite entertaining despite the joke ction and the husband is sure tomer. A couple is looking at the colle good to be true. He asks too is there must be a catch as the offer at a discount. The saleslable avai is the salesman what on display at till the man picks up a ring and man says yes to all that he points smirks triumphantly at his wife, a gets the no he wanted to hear. He n politely informs him that the little too soon though, as the salesma ring belongs to his wife.

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Pieces from the Tanishq Jodhaa Akbar collection

Diamonds

It is Jaya’s birthday and Big B wants to get her diamonds. But women, tells you, put a lot of tho he ught into expensive buy s and he will have to do same if he wants to ple the ase her. He buys a nec klace at a Tanishq store thorough investigation afte r into the different varieti es of diamonds. An exc B repeats at home what ited Big he learnt at the store to show off his newly acq knowledge about the pre uired cious stone. He does ma nage to impress Jaya though not entirely as she pulls a long face and ask s, “And bangles?”

EPIC LOVE

Sibling Revelry A brother gets his soon-to-be married sister a present. The sister opens the box to ﬁnd a pair of earrings. Touched by the gesture, she wonders whether her younger brother has spent all of his ﬁrst salary in getting her this gift. She then begins to rib him playfully about missing her already.

Smart and innovative advertising has also been one of the brand’s many strengths. Tanishq ads have always been about treasuring relationships through the trusted brand’s panaromic range that is positioned as being desirable and yet affordable. and set in pure gold, available at a starting price of `80,000, were showcased at select Tanishq stores, in time with the film. Its second collection for the silver screen matched the magnitude of the epic venture. Hundreds of craftsmen laboured for nearly two years to recreate Mughal era jewellery for Ashutosh Gowariker’s historical drama Jodhaa Akbar. Some 400 kg of gold, precious and semi-precious stones were used to recreate hefty Mughal and Rajasthani pieces for the film characters; the wedding set worn by Aishwarya Rai’s character, Princess Jodha, alone weighed around three-and-a-half kg. Besides recreating elegant jewellery of the past, Tanishq carved a distinctive space in fine fashion jewellery as well with its IVA Collection (launched for the action-thriller Race 2). The collection consisted of semi-precious gemstones set in gold and silver and its detachable components (for instance, modular rings that can be worn separately) added to its funky versatility. Bringing gold down from its out-of-limits pedestal, Tanishq was the first to promote the idea

of jewellery as affordable and suited for daily wear. True to its trait of re-inventing constantly, it was also the ﬁrst to introduce jewellery in the online space in India. To connect with the fastgrowing online shopping segment and the huge Indian diaspora, Tanishq launched its website in 2010. In July this year, Titan launched its ecommerce website merging the e-stores of all Titan Industries brands. Sentimental but innovative advertising has been one of the brand’s many strengths. Tanishq’s ads invariably show relationships being strengthened through the giving and receiving of jewellery that is desirable yet affordable. “Tanishq speaks about jewellery in a unique way. The ads are warm and humane, presenting its jewellery as something to aspire for, yet relatable and accessible,” says adman Santosh Desai, MD and CEO at Future Brands. Tanishq has a pan-India presence with 150 stores in 86 cities at the moment. Grand expansion plans for 2013-14 are on the anvil. “We plan to open 30-35 more stores this year,” says Kulhalli. More golden surprises, it seems, are in store.

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

HHEIR S ITTOARGYE

HHEIR S ITTOARGYE AZURE ALLURE

A blue sapphire and diamond necklace, set in white gold by Amrapali

Rhymes

with desire ...and aptly so. Sapphire, the seductive cornﬂower-blue stone, is a seductress that few can resist. by Shubhra Krishan

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he name ‘sapphire’ comes from the Greek word ‘sappheiros’, meaning blue. So how old is the stone? Well, the ﬁrst mention of it occurs around the 7th century BC, when the Etruscans seem to have begun using it. And guess where they got their sapphire from? The subcontinent! Yes, the precious sapphire has a deep connection with India, having been part of our nation’s history, legend and heritage for many centuries. After the Etruscans, the Greeks and Romans too imported sapphires from India. The kings of yore sought the stone reportedly to protect themselves from harm and envy. By the time the 13th century rolled around, sapphires had acquired a strong reputation as powerpacked stones. References in world history suggest that sapphires protect against poverty, make a stupid man wise, and an irritable man good-tempered. Traditional teachings of Judaism in the Talmud hold that the two tablets containing the Ten Commandments were composed of blue sapphire as a symbolic reminder of the sky, the heavens, and ultimately of God’s throne. It also meant that the

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HISTORY

ARTIST’S MUSE

Sitarist Anushka Shankar wears ‘Starry-Starry Night’, a sapphire necklace created by Mirari

tablets were so strong that a hammer swung against them would be smashed to smithereens. The ancient Persians put forward the charming theory that the earth rested on a giant sapphire and its reﬂection coloured the sky. Crown jewels across the world, including Britain, are full of large blue sapphires, the symbol of pure and wise rulers.

FOR SEPTEMBER BORN The sapphire is believed to be the birthstone of those born in September. Which means gifting the stone to someone born under the Virgo sun sign can bring them good luck and happiness. It protects its Virgo-born wearers from mental disorders, and is said to cure those who already suffer from them. Symbolising sincerity and faithfulness, sapphires are an excellent choice for engagement rings; they also serve as the traditional anniversary gift for a couple’s ﬁfth and 45th years together. One of the hardest natural gemstones (second only to diamonds), the sapphire belongs to the Corundum class of minerals that are formed in many colours and have different names for different hues; for example, when they are red, they are called rubies. The most commonly found colour is blue. Unlike diamonds (which are made almost purely of carbon), sapphires are an amalgam of aluminium and oxygen. They are so rare and expensive that instead of perfect rounds, cutters shape them into ovals or cushions, in order to preserve most of the original rough. Round sapphires are also available, but their ﬁnal shape lacks a lot of rough, making them more expensive than ovals or cushions. Throughout the world, Burmese and Kashmiri sapphires are the most soughtafter varieties, known for their superior clarity, hue and saturation. Since sapphires are rarely mined in Kashmir anymore, the Kashmir variety is found almost exclusively on the resale market. Today, the most common sapphires are found in Sri Lanka and Madagascar, and occur in shades ranging from light sky blue to dark blue. Other producers of blue sapphire are Australia, Tanzania, Thailand, Cambodia, and the American state of Montana. The best sapphire cuts offer a depth-towidth ratio that is higher than a comparable diamond cut. Good quality sapphires have a depth percentage (which is the measurement of a gemstone’s width with respect to its diameter) of 65 to 80 per cent. Depth percent-

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

age is a good way to measure a gemstone’s refraction—stones with a high depth look small, but show off more colour than similar gems which have been cut to normal proportions. Since deep-cut stones preserve more weight, making the size of the sapphire’s crown (top portion) almost irrelevant, it’s safe to say that the higher the depth percentage, the costlier the stone. Shallow stones look big for their weight and are lighter in colour than deeper-cut stones. One way to tell if a sapphire is of good quality is to view it in profile against the light—good symmetry will ensure that it reflects light evenly. Sapphires are too impure in their natural state to be cut and sold immediately. Therefore, the corundum is heated at extremely high temperatures to fine-tune its clarity and colour. Treated at temperatures above 1,700 degree Celsius, the silk within the stone dissolves, greatly improving the colour and clarity of the stone. In this way, you can turn a colourless sapphire into a dazzling blue gem. At lower temperatures, the silk can be improved and the colour lightened.

Stone

Know the

s Sapphire is the second-hardest stone known to man. Only diamonds are harder.

s The virtues of ‘truth’ and ‘sincer-

ity’ are closely associated with this gemstone.

s The colour of a sapphire is determined by its ability to absorb certain wavelengths of light.

s Apart from astrology, sapphire

has tremendous use in traditional science as well, owing to its remarkable hardness. It makes very effective infrared optical component, watch crystal, highly durable window, and is even found in semiconductors.

s Ancient Persians used to believe that earth was kept in place by a giant sapphire, whose natural blue light turned the sky blue.

Historically, the Burmese and Kashmir sapphires were the most sought-after, owing to their superior clarity and hue. But now Sri Lanka too is a good source for the stone

COLOUR CODES Blue is the most famous and most commonly available colour of sapphires. The famed Kashmir and Burmese sapphires have a rare, intense, velvety deep blue, which the Sri Lankan and Madagascar varieties can’t hope to match. Yellow sapphires are on the lighter side. Heat treatment produces a more intense golden-yellow colour, while a beryllium-treated sapphire may be of a brilliant yellow. The yellow colour is caused by traces of iron in the stone. Colourless sapphires are extremely rare, since faint shades of colour are nearly always present. Small white sapphires used in inexpensive jewellery are usually synthetic in nature and are not preferred by real connoisseurs. Purple sapphires are quite uncommon and are found mostly in Sri Lanka and Tanzania. The corundum gets its purple hue from the iron and titanium impurities within. Padparadscha is the Sinhalese word for a Sri Lankan lotus ﬂower. In the world of gem-

THE CONFLUENCE

A checkers pendant studded with blue sapphire and diamonds by Entice

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HISTORY

stones, it refers to one of the more classy sapphires, with hosts tinges of both pink and orange, simultaneously. A true padparadscha will always have a hint of pink. Many sapphires that appear green actually consist of ﬁne alternating bands of blue and yellow.

MYTHS AND LEGENDS Through history, sapphires have symbolised truth, sincerity and faithfulness in relationships. They bring peace, joy and wisdom to the wearer and owner. In the past, sapphires were sold as talismans against evil spirits, especially star sapphires which protected travellers and seekers. They were said to be so powerful that they would continue protecting the wearer even after being passed on to his next of kin. In the Middle Ages, blue gemstones were used to treat eye diseases and as an antidote to poison. Members of royal families were asked to wear blue gems around

BIRD’S VIEW

A pair of peacockinspired earrings studded with blue sapphires by Mirari

With love from

Kashmir A

CLAIM TO FAME

The 22.6-carat Hill’s Kashmir sapphire pendant

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

their necks to protect them from envy, poison and harm. Sapphires were also considered to be an effective treatment for colic and rheumatism. It wasn’t just physical ailment that the blue stone fought. Citizens across the world believed that the sapphire held such mythical powers that it was also used by witches and necromancers to communicate with the dead. In the 18th century, a gemstone known as the ‘Saphire Merveilleux’ became famous even as a vehicle for ‘feminine virtue testing’. If it looked light blue in colour, the woman wearer was pure; if it looked dark, her future looked dark too. The test was obviosuly rigged since the stone, like many sapphires, changed colour as per the light source—appearing deep blue in daylight and changed to a deep violet under artiﬁcial light. Still, to prove her faithfulness, or lack thereof, women were asked to wear the stone for three hours. The inside story is that women who the sapphire-owner wanted to prove guilty were asked to wear it at night (when candles and lamps were the only source of light) while those who were to walk away as innocent were given the stone in daylight. In India, we don’t go that far, but yes, we do believe that the blue sapphire is

s per the records of the Geological Survey of India, Kashmir sapphires were ﬁrst brought to light in 1881-82, when some stones were brought into Simla by traders from Lahaul, who said they had got them from the mountains on the borders of Zanskar, where a landslip had laid bare the rocks beneath the soil. According to one story, a certain shikari, looking for a handy fragment of quartz or some other hard rock which he could use to strike a light with, picked up a small sapphire, and ﬁnding that it answered his purpose better than the ordinary fragments of quartz he normally used, carried it about with him before selling it to a Lahauli trader, who took it to Simla, where its value was recognised. Enquiries were then made, which resulted in the discovery of the spot where the shikari had picked up the stone. For some time, until guards were posted near the locality by the Maharajah of Kashmir, large quantities of the stones were brought to Simla and sold at absurdly low prices, the Lahaulis reportedly asking for one rupee per seer for them. Another story runs to the effect that a number of traders who had arrived in the Simla bazaar with borax from Rupshu were emptying

their baskets in a merchant’s shop, when a stone fell out and was thrown by the merchant into the street. A well-known jeweller by the name of Jacobs happened to be passing by, and was struck by the stone. Picking it up, he recognized it for what it was and bought it for a small sum. Stories have been circulated of the discovery of sapphires in Kullu and other portions of the North-West Himalayas too, but up to the present time none of these have been confirmed. Other stories claim that the stones were first discovered in Kashmir around 1880, in Kudi Valley, near the hamlet of Sumjam in the Paddar region. Whatever the original location, the Kashmir sapphire remains extra special to this day. is is largely because of its colour saturation. Kashmir sapphires contain the highest concentration of blue possible; the colour is homogenous and spread evenly. Another key feature is the stone’s velvety look. is is caused by the presence of very fine and evenly distributed silk in the sapphire crystal. e blue sapphire is a crystalline form of aluminium oxide; the blue is caused by the displacement of some aluminium atoms by atoms of titanium and iron.

How to buy

Sapphires

s Colour: Look for a stone with an in-

tense, rich blue, without being dark or inky. Having said that, light blue sapphires often have a brilliance that is rarely found in the darker stones.

s Lighting: To judge a sapphire’s

quality just by the way it reﬂects and refracts light, it’s best viewed under ﬂuorescent light or daylight; incandescent light usually makes the corundum look less attractive.

BRIDAL BIJOU

Blue sapphire and diamond neckpiece by designer Annu Chadha

s Clarity: Look for stones that are

eye-clean (when no impurities are visible to the naked eye). Extremely ﬁne silk, which runs throughout the stone, can actually enhance the value of some sapphires (the famous velvety-blue colour of the Kashmir sapphires is created by this ﬁne silk). Too much silk weakens the colour.

s Cut: Ovals are most common, while Buddhist monks believe the blue sapphire eliminates Saturn’s negative rays, replacing it with tranquillity. Blue sapphire bestows upon the wearer a true picture of his or her dreams. not for everyone. Mumbai-based astrologer Bhim Prasad Bhattarai explains how a blue sapphire can have powerful effects on its wearer. “As is well known, the blue sapphire, popular as neelam, does not suit everybody,” says Bhattarai. “It can be extremely effective, and if it suits you, it can destroy poverty, sorrow, disease and accelerate prosperity, life-span, and your overall health. Moreover, a blue sapphire has been seen to help recover lost property or funds. However, if the stone is unfavourable, it will act against you in every way, and has been even known to wreck lives. Therefore, blue sapphires should only be worn after consulting an astrologer.” He adds that a blue sapphire should be set in silver or gold, and worn on the middle ﬁnger. Blue sapphires reportedly represent ‘Saturn, the attendant’ of our solar system. According to the Linga Purana, Saturn evolved from the exuberant lump of light of Lord Rudra. The Markendaya Purana, however, says Saturn was born to Chhaya, wife of Surya, the sun god. Buddhist monks believe the blue sap-

phire eliminates Saturn’s negative rays. The monks say the sapphire bestows upon its wearer the realisation of his or her dreams and desires, and wipes out all hurdles in the process. Some people also believe in its power to grant fertility to women who are finding it difficult to conceive. For maximum effect, astrologers recommend wearing it in the form of a ring or pendant. St Hildegard of Bingen (1098-1179), also known as Sybil of the Rhine, believed that the stone was formed through the mystical combination of fire and water, and enjoyed the same powers as those elements. In her book, Physica, she says: “Who is dull and would like to be clever, should, in a sober state, frequently lick with the tongue on a sapphire, because the gemstone’s warmth and power, combined with the saliva’s moisture, will expel the harmful juices that affect the intellect. Thus, the man will attain a good intellect.” Well, we don’t know about that but you sure can attain a good appearance with a sapphire glinting on your throat, or wrist.

round sapphires are slightly rarer. Other shapes, such as the heart or emerald cut, are even more difﬁcult to ﬁnd.

AROUND THE WORLD

L-R: Yellow sapphire earring by Cartier (Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck); Le Jardin earring by Ganjam; and Regina Cleopatra earring by Damiani

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TREND

Chunky CHOKERS

Hair Jewels

ARMS AND AMMUNITION

BLING STAYS KING

Drapes

Season’s

BROCADES & BAUBLES FOR MEN

GREETINGS A saatlada necklace wrapped around a high ponytail, spiral armlets and multiple rings—Indian designers have thought up new ways for brides to wear their jewellery this wedding season by Nidhi Raj Singh

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TREND

SUNEET VARMA ENSEMBLES Varma’s brides dazzled in cutwork saris with detailed blouses (or none!). Draped skirts with off-shoulder corsets, tunics with wide pants and tiered skirts with net jackets—clearly for a bold bride.

JEWELLERY Rings covering the entire ﬁnger (as we predicted in our last issue), spiral jewellery for the arms and neck, Roman-styled headgears and bracelets with edgy designs matched the clothes.

DESIGNER’S TAKE

“Made to measure clothes as well as jewellery are an Indian tradition, so couture is not lost on us.”

RINA DHAKA ENSEMBLES The designer gave this season’s brides surface embroidery on rich velvets and silks, while her sheer fabrics were embellished with threadwork in vibrant colours. JEWELLERY Dhaka’s focus was on the hair/ head. Gold kadas by Azva (World Gold Council) did double duty as hair adornments, as did jadau necklaces and multi-strand chains. The earrings were created with polki and meenakari. DESIGNER’S TAKE

“Edgy works for me and it has found a place in this collection too, be it by way of clothes, or jewellery or the manner in which they are worn.”

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TREND

ROHIT BAL ENSEMBLES Rohit Bal’s clothes are always fun, and his bridal collection wasn’t different—corsets with lehengas, antique gold Kashmiri embroidery on rich velvets, lace and voiles were his looks for this wedding season.

JEWELLERY He picked Azva gold jewellery studded with precious stones like rubies and matched the clothes with huge mirror rings, antique gold jhumars and maang tikas.

DESIGNER’S TAKE

“My collection reﬂects the glorious indulgence of the privileged aristocracy from a golden age of India.”

TARUN TAHILIANI ENSEMBLES TT put his ladies in pastelcoloured lehengas studded with pearls, Swarovski crystals and 3D ﬂower artwork and blouses with risqué necklines and chain-mail dupatta and ivory silk threads work on panelled kurtas.

JEWELLERY The clothes were matched with two types of jewellery—sparkling crystals, diamonds and pearls as well as a gold collection designed by Tahiliani for Azva.

DESIGNER’S TAKE

“This collection is a living, breathing heritage, married with the fresh vibrancy and essence of modern India.” 72

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TREND

ANJU MODI ENSEMBLES Modi gave a twist to the traditional bridal trousseau with multi-layered lehengas and ghagras in printed fabrics worn with peek-a-boo blouse backs and jackets worn with saris in vibrant hues.

JEWELLERY Gold ear cuffs shaped like conches were a perfect antithesis to traditional silhouettes as heavy-set jadau neckpieces and bracelets complemented the clothes.

DESIGNER’S TAKE

“My collection explored modern design while drawing a new story from rich traditional vocabulary.”

RINA DHAKA

RAGHAVENDRA RATHORE ENSEMBLES Rathore’s bridal clothes were adorned with surface embroidery and embellishments on silks and velvets in shades of fuchsia, midnight blue and wine. Grooms were dressed in bandhgala jackets.

JEWELLERY All that glittered was gold for this collection as regal yet light gold jewellery in form of maang tikas, matha patti and elaborate earrings were given to brides while men ﬂaunted bejewelled accessories like brooches.

DESIGNER’S TAKE

“I gave a refreshing twist to bandhgalas and women’s couture line—classic prêt à porter, red carpet designs.” 74

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TREND

SATYA PAUL WITH PC JEWELLER ENSEMBLES Tailcoat jackets paired with lace shararas, gowns with high necklines and lapels, sari draped over a sheer jumpsuit in ﬂoral printed organzas, lycra knits, georgettes and chiffons were the highlights of the collection.

JEWELLERY A mix of heavy kundan polki bridal sets, temple jewellery in antique gold, and antique polished diamond jewellery were showcased. Maang tikas made an appearance as did elaborate brooches for men.

JEWELLER’S TAKE

“Diamond and gold jewellery with antique polish, kundan and polki complemented Masaba Gupta’s demi couture collection,” said Balram Garg, MD, PC Jeweller.

JJ VALAYA ENSEMBLES Valaya’s clothes blended Spanish and Indian inﬂuences as lehengas were teamed with velvet cholis in shades of burgundy and grey and fringed Spanish shawls (Mantón de Manila) made with jamawar and matka silk.

JEWELLERY Hair jewellery was the mainstay of Valaya’s collection and gypsy style-inspired multi-stones jewellery, elaborate, multi-layered maang tikas, polki kamarbandhs and thewa jewellery took the centre stage.

DESIGNER’S TAKE

“The inspiration came from bullﬁghters or matadors. I fused their ﬂamboyant costumes with beautiful Indian fabrics.” 76

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PHOTO FEATURE

Festive

FERVOUR Every piece of jewellery tells a story. Find one that reﬂects your mood this festive season. PHOTOGRAPHS BY SARANG SENA

Left: (Clockwise from top) Navratna reversible set with polkis and emerald drops, Niren Soni. Jhumkis from Nizam collection, Ganjam. Jadau necklace with navratna, south sea pearls and polki, Rose. Gold drop earrings with pearl border, polkis and rubies, Diagold. Polki peacock earrings with pearl drop, Mirari. Facing Page: (From top) Gold ethnic kada with lion face. Gold jhumkis. Polki kada with peacock blue meena. Gold kada with ﬁligree and kundan work. Gold cocktail ring. Gold cuff with ﬁligree work, and kundan and rubies in the centrepiece. All by Blues Jewellery Company (BJC).

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PHOTO FEATURE

Above: Polki and pearl ring, BJC. Facing Page: (Clockwise from left) Regal polki necklace with south sea pearls, carved emeralds and cabachon rubies, BJC. Necklace from Heritage Collection, Ganjam. Regal polki earrings with carved emeralds and cabachon rubies, BJC.

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

PHOTO FEATURE

(Clockwise from extreme left) Choker polki necklace with emerald drops, Entice. Gold squareshaped ring with polkis and red enamel, Diagold. Polki and red enamel necklace, Diagold. Tourmaline and polki ring, Niren Soni. Reversible Meenakari necklace, Diagold. Polki and green enamel ring, Entice. Classic round kundan polki necklace, Entice. Polki ring, Entice. Reversible set with polki and emeralds, Niren Soni. Polki ďŹ&#x201A;ower ring, Entice.

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

PHOTO FEATURE

Above: Gold cuff with ďŹ ligree work with kundan and rubies, BJC. Facing Page: (Clockwise from top) Gold and polki pacheli style bracelet, Diagold. Jadau bracelet with polki and black enamel, Rose. Pearls and rubies gold cuff, Mirari. Wristwear from Heritage Collection, Ganjam. Kundan polki cuff with emerald, rubies and enamel back, Entice Taraash Collection. Green enamel and polki bracelet, Rose. Big polki bangles set, Entice.

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

PHOTO FEATURE

Multi-strand rubies and pearls embrace necklace with peacockinspired pendant studded with polkis, Mirari.

Styling by GUL GARG

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

ALL THAT GLITTERS

TOP BUYS: `10,000 TO `30,000

TOP BUYS: UNDER `10,000

WHIM List

SWAROVSKI This Gecko ﬂamingo charm belongs to the brand’s ‘Style for Less’ collection. The bird has big jet crystal eyes and a shiny, epoxy body enhanced with peridots and indicolite crystal pavé PRICE: `3,150

Glittering pieces to suit every budget and ﬁre every imagination. Take your pick.

ZARIIN Crafted in 22-carat gold, this Santorini Grace Collar necklace features unique jaali work with blue thread and is set with uncut green and blue chalcedony stones

ZARIIN Crafted in 22-carat gold-plated metal, this ‘ruby block’ necklace carries an uncut ruby in the centre of the weblike pendant

PRICE: `12,500

PRICE: `4,500

OUTHOUSE The decadent head piece is a play of elements like Swarovski crystals, baroque and cultured pearls backed with motifs woven with ﬁne quality suede

TANYA ROSSI AMERICAN SWAN These Roosevelt earrings are crafted in silver, and have red enamel and crystals giving them an extra sparkle

These earrings from Tanya Rossi’s ‘Silly is Sexy’ collection has silicon bands (silver or black) holding up blue teardrops wearing tiny caps of sterling silver and you can mix and match the colours

PRICE: `1,749

PRICE: `3,250

PRICE: `18,379

SWAROVSKI This chunky ruthenium-plated ring has a dome that’s studded with glittering pointiage crystals in turquoise and black and has an adjustable shank for extra comfort PRICE: `20,000

VICTORINOX The Maverick watch now comes in a sporty avatar. The new version has a green tone on the dial and bevel, matched with special coating on the case and bracelet in gold and steel PVD PRICE: `27,400

AMRAPALI TITAN Eva ladies watch ﬂaunts a stainless steel bracelet studded with sky-blue coloured crystals and a matching blue dial, creating a surprisingly simple design that dazzles PRICE: `6,995

These chaandbali earrings are studded with lapis lazuli and are embossed with ﬂowers. Ringing the balis are pearls and crystals, set in 18-carat goldplated silver PRICE: `9,700

TANISHQ EINA AHLUWALIA Crafted in 22-carat gold-plated metal, these ‘ﬂoat boat’ earrings have drops attached at the end of delicate chains. Guaranteed to ﬂoat everyone’s boat. RICE: `6,800

JULY-AUGUST 2013

Workwear jewellery ﬁnds new expression in Mia 3.0. Crafted in 18 or 22-carat white and yellow gold, this pendant is set with sparkling crystals in a spiral design PRICE: `17,101

EMPORIO ARMANI Perfect for someone with an active lifestyle, the Stylesport watch has three sub-dials, a stainless steel case, a dial with prominent crown and pusher buttons and a red rubber strap PRICE: `20,995

ALL THAT GLITTERS

TOP BUYS: `30,000 TO `50,000

TOP BUYS: `50,000 TO `1 LAKH

PLATINUM GUILD AMRAPALI Crafted in 18-carat yellow gold plated silver, this cuff has a panther face embossed on its metal body, studded with rose quartz, green chalcedony, amethyst and reconstituted turquoise enamel

These elegant chandelier earrings have three ascending teardrop-shaped frames studded with diamonds

VUMMIDI BANGARU JEWELLERS

PRICE: `99,000

Crafted in 22carat yellow gold, this fairy-shaped pendant is set with diamonds

PRICE: `42,000

TARA JEWELLERS Wear your heart on your ﬁnger. Crafted in 22-carat gold, this ring is studded with rubies and diamonds

PRICE: `55,000

CARATLANE Crafted in 18carat gold, these Mayur chime earrings ﬂaunt ﬂoral design crafted with blue lapis, emeralds and diamonds

PRICE: `82,000

PRICE: `35,180

C. KRISHNIAH CHETTY & SONS Crafted in 18-carat white gold, this pendant is set with emeralds, ruby beads and diamonds PRICE: `44,000

ALPANA GUJRAL This pair of danglers is decorated with ﬂowers crafted in 18-carat gold and studded with small diamonds

BLUESTONE Celebrating the colour of love, these earrings from the Radiant Ruby collection have teardrop-shaped rubies and diamonds set in white gold

TARA JEWELLERS

PRICE: `70,000

Crafted in 18-carat gold, this pendant is set with diamonds backed with a delicate, laser-cut plate

PRICE: `35,941

RAYMOND WEIL

PRICE: `45,400

GUCCI Featuring a painted bamboo bezel and bangle, this women’s timepiece has a black dial and the Gucci logo at 12 o’clock. Also available in silver and white dial variants

FOREVERMARK

SWAROVSKI

This ring from the Encordia collection has elegant knots crafted in a sleek loop of platinum studded with diamonds (it’s also available in a white gold variant)

This Tangara set has a rhodiumplated ring and cuff adorned with pointiage crystals and metallic epoxy. Linked by a chain, the pieces can be worn together or separately (available in two sizes)

The trois aiguilles or rose watch from the Maestro collection is crafted in PVD rose gold and has a brown leather strap with saddle stitching PRICE: `88,000

PRICE: `66,000

PRICE: `69,000

PRICE: `34,000

PLATINUM GUILD This ﬂoral shaped pendant has platinum petal motifs studded with diamonds PRICE: `49,900

ENTICE The ring in white gold has alternate rows of rubies and diamonds giving it an exotic look PRICE: `60,000

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

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ALL THAT GLITTERS

TOP BUYS: `1 LAKH TO `5 LAKH

TOP BUYS: `5 LAKH AND ABOVE

VUMMIDI BANGARU JEWELLERS

LOUIS VUITTON

This temple jewellery-styled necklace has a Goddess Lakshmi pendant set in gold, enhanced with emeralds and rubies

Want to wear diamonds in a casual way? Go for Louis Vuitton’s Ardentes pendant which bears the brand’s signature star in ﬂower-cut diamonds, surrounded by 252 brilliant-cut diamonds, strung on a leather lace

PRICE: `2.90 lakh

PRICE: `61 lakh

NOTANDAS & SONS

CHOPARD This Imperiale ring crafted in 18-carat rose gold is set with a cushion-cut purple amethyst nestled within a rose gold petals casing

This ﬂoral ring is set with pink champagnecoloured diamonds and is set with white diamonds at the border of the petals and the centre

PRICE: `1.99 lakh

ENTICE

TIFFANY & CO Designed by Paloma Picasso, this Venezia Goldoni medallion bracelet imitates the scrolls and swirls of Venetian gates and is fashioned from 18-carat yellow gold, covered in diamonds PRICE: `18.35 lakh

PRICE: `3.38 lakh

Handcrafted in 22-carat gold, these earrings have polkis on one side and intricate enamel work on the other. Dangling pearls dance at the bottom PRICE: `5.50 lakh

TARA JEWELLERS These chandelier earrings crafted in 18-carat white gold are studded with sparkling diamonds and faceted ruby at the centre of the ﬂoral designs

BLUES JEWELLERY COMPANY Crafted in 18-carat yellow gold, this bracelet has diamonds surrounding a large emerald, set in prong style giving it extra sparkle

PRICE: `5.71 lakh

PRICE: `2.95 lakh

DIOR The La Mini D de Dior has a ﬂuorescent pink strap and a petite black motherof-pearl face crowned with a row of 71 diamonds PRICE: `2.64 lakh

HERMÈS This arceau lipstick watch has a stainless steel case taken from its 1978 version and a pink lipstick calf strap to match PRICE: `2.37 lakh

ZENITH

CHANEL

This Captain Chronograph ladies watch has a high-frequency El Primero calibre, a rose gold case set with a single row of diamonds and a guillochéd dial

The Mademoiselle Prive watch is inspired by Coromandel screens and has a dial decorated with Grand Feu enamel, set with 721 diamonds

PRICE: `13.65 lakh

PRICE: `25 lakh

SAPNA SINGHANIA These chaand balis get their colour from emeralds. Also in attendance are creamy pearls and sparkling diamonds

C. KRISHNIAH CHETTY & SONS Crafted in 22-carat white gold, these danglers have delicate jaali work and are set with Tahitian pearl drops with a blue and green tint

PRICE: `4.75 lakh

CARTIER Have fun wearing the Paris Nouvelle Vague ring crafted with rose gold beads studded with pink sapphires and diamonds; it jingles with every move of your hand PRICE: `15 lakh

PRICE: `1.25 lakh

*Prices may vary depending on gold and metal rates, metal weight and size of gemstones

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INDEX

Forevermark Rose Boutique DLF Emporio Nelson Mandela Marg Vasant Kunj, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 24526167

Shopping Guide

Gitanjali Jewels G-20/21, Inorbit Mall Malad Link Road Malad (W), Mumbai Contact: +91 22 28776095 A-13, South Extension I New Delhi Contact: +91 11 24625363

SHOP TILL YOU DROP

Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers’ traditional neckpiece

Amrapali Khan Market, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 41752024 The Oberoi Hotel Nariman Point, Mumbai Contact: +91 22 22843689

Caratlane www.caratlane.com

132, Hotel Rambagh Palace Jaipur Contact: +91 141 5103156

Cartier DLF Emporio Nelson Mandela Marg Vasant Kunj, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 46788888

Alpana Gujral 16, Feroze Gandhi Road Lajpat Nagar 3, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 29831386

Chanel The Imperial Hotel Janpath, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 41116840

Blues Jewellery Company South Extension-I New Delhi Contact: +91 11 47222222 Bluestone www.bluestone.com

C. Krishniah Chetty & Sons The Touchstone

Main Guard Cross Road Bangalore Contact: +91 80 40001869

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013

Chopard DLF Emporio Nelson Mandela Marg Vasant Kunj, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 46662834

DKNY Watches Ethos Summit G-14, Select CityWalk Saket, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 40588700

Dior DLF Emporio Nelson Mandela Marg Vasant Kunj, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 46116666

Emporio Armani Ethos Summit G-14, Select CityWalk Saket, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 40588700

Johnson Watch Co C-16, Connaught Place New Delhi Contact: +91 11 41513121

Entice KGK Tower Borivali (E) Mumbai Contact: +91 22 28701508/09

Ethos Summit Nariman Point Mumbai Contact: +91 22 66150351

M-39, GK-1 Market New Delhi Contact: +91 11 29234455/56

The Helvetica 7, Citi Centre Dr Radhakrishnan Salai Road Mylapore, Chennai Contact: +91 44 4357 7782

Esprit Johnson Watch Co C-16, Connaught Place New Delhi Contact: +91 11 41513121

Watches and More Breach Candy Mumbai Contact: +91 22 23620275

Eina Ahluwalia Design Studio 1D, Ajanta Apartments 10 Gurusaday Road Kolkata Contact: +91 9831059111

High Street Phoenix Lower Parel, Mumbai Contact: +91 22 24978605

Gucci Watches DLF Emporio Nelson Mandela Marg Vasant Kunj, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 46471111

Hublot Ethos Summit G-14, Select CityWalk Saket, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 40588700

Isharya Ensemble 36, Santushti Shopping Complex, Race Course Road New Delhi Contact: +91 11 24121669

Louis Vuitton DLF Emporio Nelson Mandela Marg Vasant Kunj, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 46690000 Louis Erard Ethos Summit G-14, Select CityWalk Saket, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 40588700

Mirari M-1, Lower Ground Floor

GK-1 Market, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 41086600 Montblanc The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower Apollo Bunder, Colaba Mumbai Contact: +91 22 22816827 Grand Hyatt Plaza Vakola, Santacruz (E) Mumbai Contact: +91 22 30689001/02 JW Marriott Juhu Tara Road, Mumbai Contact: +91 22 26120362/64

Nautica The Time Factory 61, Basant Lok New Delhi Contact: +91 11 65103620 Notandas Jewellers 6, Mangal Darshan Water Field Road, Bandra (W) Mumbai Contact: +91 22 26428616 G-26, South Extension I New Delhi Contact: +91 22 24628616

Outhouse Jewellery A-129, Ground Floor Shahpur Jat, New Delhi Contact: +91 8800522111 www.perniaspopupshop.com

p PC Chandra 83, Chowringhee Road Kolkata Contact: +91 33 22238062 K1/20, Chittaranjan Park New Delhi Contact: +91 11 26270002 Prithviraj Jewels E-31, South Extension-II New Delhi Contact: +91 11 26261322 Pure Gold Jewellers Select CityWalk

Saket, New Delhi Contact: +91 11 41054545

Raymond Weil Helvetica Swiss Watch Boutique 7‚ Chennai Citi Centre Dr Radhakrishnan Salai Mylapore, Chennai Contact: +91 44 43577782 Ethos Swiss Watch Studios Departure Terminal, International Airport, Bangalore Contact: +91 80 66783750

Sapna Singhania 91A, Tahnee Heights Nepeansea Road Mumbai Contact: +91 22 23697087 Swarovski Select CityWalk Saket New Delhi Contact: +91 11 40534580 231, Link Corner Building Linking Road Bandra (W) Mumbai Contact: +91 22 26402510

Tanishq G-16, South Extension I New Delhi Contact: +91 11 24624586 New Link Road Andheri (W) Mumbai Contact: +91 22 61996666 Tanya Rossi Watches and More Breach Candy Mumbai Contact: +91 22 23620275 The Rose International 72, Hormuz Mansion Bhulabhai Desai Road Breach Candy Mumbai Contact: +91 22 23685287

High Street Phoenix Lower Parel, Mumbai Contact: +91 22 24978605 Tara Jewellers No. 9, 2705 Bank Street Karol Bagh New Delhi Contact: +91 11 47005989 Ground Floor, Queens Palace CHS Ltd, Waterﬁeld Road Bandra (W) Mumbai Contact: +91 22 26425824 Timex The Time Factory 61, Basant Lok Vasant Kunj New Delhi Contact: +91 11 65103620 World of Titan 129, DLF Place District Centre, Saket New Delhi Contact: +91 11 46102724 1/2, B-Block 2nd Avenue, Anna Nagar East Chennai Contact: +91 44 26220908

Versace Watches Johnson Watch Co C-16, Connaught Place New Delhi Contact: +91 11 41513121 Victorinox 91C, Mittal Towers Nariman Point Mumbai Contact: +91 22 3366 8888 Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers 603, Rani Seethai Hall Anna Salai, Chennai Contact: +91 44 28291576

Zaveri & Co. Pyare Lal Road Karol Bagh New Delhi Contact: +91 11 28758982

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013 95

ALL THAT GLITTERS

ODDS & ENDS

A Platinum Feat The House of Borgezie has unveiled the world’s ﬁrst-ever platinum stiletto, ﬁttingly called the Cleopatra

hoemaker Stuart Weitzman had created a pair of ‘Rita Hayworth shoes’ in 2006 which actress-musician Kathleen York wore to the Academy Awards that year. Inspired by the late actress’ favourite earrings, the open-toed satin sandals were adorned with rubies, sapphires and diamonds and cost $3 million. They are currently owned by Hayworth’s daughter, Princess Yasmin Aga Khan. Those shoes remain the world’s most expensive shoes, courtesy the jewels, but now we’ve got an expensive pair in platinum. Bespoke jeweller The House of Borgezie has unveiled the world’s firstever platinum stiletto, fittingly called the Cleopatra. The pair costs $109,700. The Cleopatra took over four years to develop due to the high temperatures and complex techniques required to work with platinum, according to designer Christopher Shellis. The shoes feature a lily stamen heel detail, as well as replaceable heel and sole caps. The last has been made possible by an ingenious and patented design feature, and the heel and sole of the sandle can be easily replaced by the owner herself, within minutes. The brand says this feature gives the sandal an ability to last forever, hence its ‘eternal forever guarantee’. The shoes are also available in 18-carat yellow and white gold, which come for a more affordable £60,000 a pair. Potential customers receive a personal visit from the Borgezie team, which takes comprehensive measurements to ensure that the stilettoes fit exactly to your unique shape.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2013