GARDENING

HOW PLANTS GOT THEIR NAMES . . . THE WARHAM SNOWDROP

THE 1854 siege of Sebastopol during the Crimean War, in the teeth of the Russian winter, imposed tremendous hardship on the BritishArmy.

When spring finally came, those who survived were given a heartening reminder of home by the sight of snowdrops growing through the melting snow.

The Crimean snowdrop is larger than our native species and a CaptainAdlington, impressed by the flowers, dug up a clump and managed to send it home to Norfolk.

His wife gave some to a friend who lived in the village of Warham and she in turn gave some to her cowman’s wife, a Mrs Buttle.

Over the years they spread to a wonderful display, were much admired, and in 1916 some were sent to E.A. Bowles, an authority on snowdrops.

Mrs Buttle was soon receiving requests from other fanciers and her flowers became known as the Warham Snowdrop.

Other clumps of Crimean snowdrops were brought home by soldiers but experts considered the Warham form to be superior.

Galanthus plicatus ‘Warham’is still listed

by several specialist nurseries.

HEAVENLY HELLEBORES: Clockwise from right, deep red Peggy Ballard, Helleborus niger, Lenten rose with cream flowers

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HELLEBORES are the perfect perennials to brighten garden borders in the depths of winter.

They are handsome, weather-proof and robust enough to grow in most kinds of soil.

But beware – all parts of hellebore plants are poisonous so it is wise to wear gloves when handling them in any way!

The best known is the Christmas rose, Helleborus niger, which is not a rose but does sometimes flower in time for the festive season, opening pure white, saucer-shaped blooms with golden stamens.

The plant is ideal for the border’s edge because it grows only 30cm (12in) tall.

There are several varieties of Christmas rose, from the deep red Peggy Ballard to Potter’s Wheel with enormous white flowers, and around 14 other species of hellebore with blooms ranging in colour from cream and pale yellow through pure green to flushed pink, cerise, plum, purple and blue-black.

Some have the added attraction of speckles or splashes of other hues. The decorative leaves vary from long and pointed to fern-like and vary from deep to pale green. Some have a silvery sheen and others are mottled. Most are evergreen.

The Lenten rose, Helleborus orientalis, with green or cream flowers, generally lives up to its name by blooming at some stage during the seven weeks of Lent (starting on March 2 this year). The plant reaches 45cm (18in) in height and spread.

Flowering between the Christmas and Lenten roses is the Corsican hellebore, Helleborus argutifolius, with rich green, marbled foliage with jagged teeth along the edges – watch your fingers – and clusters of 5cm (2in) pale green bells on strong stems.

It is fully hardy in England and Wales but, unlike most hellebores, prefers a sunny location with decent drainage. Plants can get up to 60cm (2ft) tall and wide.

Although most hellebores originate from the southern and eastern European mountains, there are two native species, both suitable for the garden.

The stinking hellebore, Helleborus foetidus, is rare but still grows wild. It will flower as early as November and, because it has long-lived sepals rather than petals, the same plant can appear to be in flower through to February.

The strain Wester Flisk is a dramatic contrast of deep brick-red stems and pale, red-edged limegreen flowers and dark green leaves. Height and spread 45cm-90cm (18in to 3ft).

The green hellebore or bear’s foot, Helleborus viridis, is also native to England and Wales, growing in scattered localities from Lancashire southwards. It grows to 40cm (16in) in height and spread and opens small green bell-shaped blooms in early spring.

Hellebores dislike transplanting so it is worth choosing their planting place carefully from the start.

Plant them where they’ll get a moderate amount of sun in rich, moist soil that is never allowed to dry out.

While they tolerate rain, they dislike dripping water so avoid planting under the canopy of a tree. To grow more, transplant the seedlings which often appear a few months after the parent plant has flowered.

At flowering time, to help the blooms look their best, cut off any leaves that have been torn and battered by winter weather.

CHECKLIST

FLOWERS: Snowdrops and winter aconites that have grown into congested clumps should be divided when the flowers have faded. SHRUBS: Prune winter jasmine, Jasminum nudiflorum, when the yellow star-like flowers die. Cut back all the side shoots which have flowered, leaving just 3cm4cm (about 1.5in) of shoot. Towards the end of March, prune the butterfly bush, buddleia, down to 30cm (12in) from the ground. Strong new shoots will flower this year. LAWNS: Keep lawns clear of twigs, wormcasts and other debris by brushing them off. Do not walk on lawns when frost is on the ground. If new growth is beginning, give a light trim in March. PONDS: Check electrical equipment and cables. Remove slippery algae from paths and decking. As the weather becomes milder try fish with a little food but if they ignore it remove the food and wait another fortnight. VEGETABLES: Sow broad beans and plant onion and shallot sets if there is a mild spell in February; otherwise wait a few weeks. Sow peas, carrots and beetroots in March. FRUIT: Prune gooseberries and redcurrants if you missed them in the autumn, aiming to produce a goblet shaped bush. GLASS: Reduce the risk of plants rotting by opening greenhouses and cold frames on sunny days but close them by mid-afternoon. In March, sow seeds of salads and herbs in pots in a greenhouse or indoors on a windowsill.

HOUSEPLANTS:

Remove fading flowers and dying leaves. Give plants as much light as possible but in most cases only water when the compost surface is starting to dry out. Exceptions are azalea, cyclamen and maidenhair fern, which prefer more moisture.