Cenotes & Whale Shark Photography in Mexico

FEATURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY LEVENTE ROZSAHEGYI

The Carwash Cenote.

If you are a diver and afraid of closed spaces, such as those of shipwrecks, then read on, this is amazing…

PREPPING FOR THE CENOTES

Cenotes are types of sinkholes that contain groundwater and are a very special gift from mother nature in Mexico on the Yucatán Peninsula. I have seen many incredible photos from there before, however, I told myself I must experience this for myself and see it with my own eyes. Initially I got invited to join the Wetpixel’s photo group, however due to unforeseen circumstances and a few cutbacks, I couldn’t make it. I then contacted Tom St George who lives in Tulum. He has been diving the cenotes for years and takes incredible photos which have won him multiple awards on a global scale. He came back to me with a proposal for 2 days of diving near Tulum with serious briefing sessions via zoom to get ready before the actual dives took place. This was my first time to dive in a proper cave. In the past I’ve only managed a few swim-throughs and shipwrecks. This trip however required some preparation.

I had two 3-hour zoom calls with Tom to prepare for these dives in the cenotes. There is a lot of information to go over. The environment is incredibly fragile as well as being very cold, and we have to be careful with any movements made.

Tom showed me a lot of images during those calls and we discussed the various techniques we would use to take, or attempt to take similar photos. According to Tom, given the circumstances, there is no way to take the same photo twice, so we are looking for the magic ahead of us.

I luckily managed to get my brand new Marelux housing for my Z6II camera delivered to Florida so I could use the new setup especially for this trip. Marelux is a new brand in the underwater photography world, and thanks to Rene Capozzola, I received my unit early. Marelux is now available in the UAE at www.marelux.ae.

I planned 4 days in Mexico which is a short flight from Florida, with 2 days searching for whale sharks, and the remaining 2 days diving in the cenotes. To explain just how small the diving world is, I went to the Bahamas back in 2016 to dive with Hammerhead sharks off the coast of Bimini where I met two Italian brothers there who run Bullshark dives in the Yucatan. The guys also run the whale shark snorkelling trips out of Cancun.

THE WHALE SHARK TRIP

There are a couple of things we need to know about whale sharks here. First off, they are amazing! There is no need to be afraid of them, they have no teeth, they swallow huge amounts of water that they filter through their gills for the small plankton that they consume, making them the gentle giants of our oceans. They also migrate between Mexico and Cuba during the summer months of July and August each year when the water at the surface (which is great for us observers) is full of small animals that they enjoy “eating”.

Some great feeding interactions with the whale sharks.

Any animal populations in the world these days are of an endangered species, hence when swimming with whale sharks, there is no touching allowed as we could transfer bacteria to their skin that could be very harmful to them. The local authorities have come up with new regulations that only allow two jumps into the water with the whale sharks so you can imagine how limited we were for time with them. Flash photography is strictly prohibited (makes it easier to swim to be honest without strobes, and the ambient light from the sun was great). I had brought my freediving fins with me as I learnt my lesson from the past swimming with dolphins and whale sharks, these guys move their bodies at least 5 times faster than I can.

My good friend Luca was waiting for me that morning and we boarded the boat together with a few other people. It was a good hour’s boat ride out to the channel between Mexico and Cuba where a bunch of other boats were also searching for whale sharks. This year was not the most eventful in numbers as the animals had decided to stay elsewhere, however we managed to find 3-4 whale sharks as they fed at the surface. Interestingly enough, the whale sharks come to the surface in the morning hours and stay there until midday, then the water warms up and the whale sharks dive deeper to disappear into the cooler waters.

It was interesting to get some interaction with these magnificent fish. It felt short, but the time we had was better than nothing and I managed to capture a few of them while feeding.

THE CENOTES

Now in Tulum, Tom was ready to roll, and I had to setup my gear and my strobes. It was good to have had a test run with my mirrorless camera on the whale sharks – practice makes perfect – at least one hopes.

Diving Angelita at the layer of hydrogen sulfide that looks like smoke creating this eerily special atmosphere underwater.

Adding unfamiliarity to my gear, I had bought new torches now attached to my rig, and I had to use a 5mm wetsuit – most people use drysuits in the caverns, but this was sufficient enough for me except I ended up having a slight wardrobe malfunction. I have a Diverite travel BCD that I have been using a number of years and I had an insulation ring missing from my BCD that connects to the hose (no big deal when you have to dive to 35 metres and everything gets compressed), so I managed to “MacGyver it” – if you don’t know what this means, you are too young! I had a temporary seal in place that kind of worked for the first two dives, however beyond 15 metres the seal started losing air – despite all of this, I managed to hover somehow to get through this dive.

Angelita is a very special cenote, imagine an almost column like hole that used to have a top cover. This had broken inwards down into the soil and rocks, landing in the middle of the column at 60 metres. Further up at 30 metres, an island has been created with some tree branches on top of it. That alone is interesting, but now there’s a layer of hydrogen sulfide which is 3 metres thick that looks just like smoke hanging at 30-35 metres creating this eerily special atmosphere underwater. We were luckily the only ones in the water as we got to the cenote early enough, allowing me some extra time to take photos.

Ascending from Angelita, the light rays started to shine into the water through all the stillness.

The spectacular Tajma Ha Cenote using off camera lighting techniques where Tom placed torches in the cave to light up the formations from different angles.

The second Cenote of the day was at the Carwash. I’m not sure where the name came from, however I understood that there is a large opening to the long cavern system, with a bunch of lilies near the large lake’s surface. Given the timing of my trip, mother nature was good to me as it rained quite a bit before I got there. This is good as the water was stirred up and created a magical and colourful view from the inside of the cave. We dived down to 10 metres deep where Tom carried out “model” duties around the opening area. There was a school of fish that I also managed to capture in the frame.The view was magnificent! On the way up, I tried to take photos of the lilies, but was unfortunately unsuccessful as the water was too stirred up for it.

Back at the hotel, I had another zoom session with Tom to review the photos, and plan for the next day.

Diving in the Ponderosa Cenote with its light-beam magic.

We dived the Ponderosa Cenote with its light-beam magic. You can only enter the cavern from the large lake side where a lot of people swim. Diving down 5-10 metres into the cavern within 2-3 minutes, we arrived at an opening where you couldn’t get into the water, however the light could. Light is always magic as you never know what to expect. It was great timing by Tom for the dive, there were only a few of us diving there so we had some time to take photos and adjust settings. We made our way further into the cavern, it was still very shallow at 5-8 metres only, so air consumption was not an issue. Ascending back to the lake, we spent some time taking split shots as the water was completely still before moving to the afternoon session’s location.

The last dive was an even more special one as we planned to use off camera lighting techniques where Tom placed torches in the cave to light up the formations from different angles. This cenote is called Tajma Ha. During this dive we actually went deep into the cavern and used lines as references, this was quite spectacular.

Until then I hadn’t quite understood why people would want to cave dive… the peace, the clear water… the zen.