India guide 2 by Alok Sheoran

UT TAR PR ADESH

Smith R d

Gra nd

Sw am i

Mar g

CS Azad Park

Allahabad City Train # Station £

Memorial

# Victoria á

a Bank Rd

n Yamu

â8 # # Anand â Bhavan

Triveni Rd

d kR

1 km 0.5 miles

# £

Daraganj : : Train : : : Station : : :

Prayag Ghat Train Station

SangamG

# Þ V # # æ Akbar's Sangam Fort

Mela Ground

Saraswati # # Fo o t Nehru Yamuna Ghat path Ghat River

MM Malviya (Minto) Park

nd Gra

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Viv e

Ze ro Rd

Trunk Rd

Leader Rd

To Bamrauli Airport (13km)

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Public #Library æ

#1 â

Motilal Nehru Rd

University

æ Allahabad #

rt Fo

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# £

Nawab Yu suf Rd Allahabad Junction Train Station

# ÿ

Sapru Rd

î# # ú ú # 17 Mahatma #ú Gandhi (M 12 ÿ #ú #ú # G) Marg ÿ # 15 18 #› û # ÿ # 13 20 22

21 19

Tejbahadur

POLICE LINES

All Saints Ü # Cathedral

ò #

Colvin Rd

CIVIL LINES

Clive Rd

Strachey Rd

Maharshi Da yanand Mar g

tel Marg

Sardar Pa

Malviya Marg

Ka m

ar g

eh ru M

r la

ah a Jaw

aS ita ram

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h Ne

Ganges River

Allahabad

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378

379

Allahabad æ Top Sights Akbar's Fort ........................................... G4 Anand Bhavan......................................... E1 Khusru Bagh .......................................... A3 Sangam .................................................. G4

ÿ Sleeping 10 Grand Continental ..................................B1 11 Hotel Prayag .......................................... A3 12 Hotel Tepso............................................ B2 13 Hotel Valentine's.................................... B2

pilgrims row boats out to this holy spot, but their numbers increase dramatically during the annual Magh Mela, a six-week festival held between January and March, which culminates in six communal ‘holy dips’ (p380). Every 12 years the massive Kumbh Mela (p1103) takes place here, attracting millions of people, while the Ardh Mela (Half Mela) is held here every six years. In the early 1950s, 350 pilgrims were killed in a stampede to the soul-cleansing water (an incident re-created vividly in Vikram Seth’s immense novel A Suitable Boy). The last Ardh Mela, in 2007, attracted more than 70 million people – the largest-ever human gathering. The next Kumbh Mela will take place in 2013. Expect a big one. Old boat hands will row you out to the sacred confluence for around ₹50 per person, or ₹250–500 per boat. Around the corner from Sangam (skirt the riverbank around the front of Akbar’s Fort) are the Saraswati and Nehru Ghats, home to a nightly aarti (an auspicious lighting of lamps/candles). Akbar’s Fort & Patalpuri Temple

FORT

Built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, this 16th-century fort on the northern bank of the Yamuna has massive walls with three gateways flanked by towers. Most of it is occupied

ú Eating 15 Aao Ji Haryana Dhaba...........................B2 16 El Chico ...................................................B2 El Chico Takeaway ........................(see 16) 17 Indian Coffee House...............................B2 Jade Garden ..................................(see 12) 18 Kamdhenu Sweets.................................B2 19 Shahenshah............................................B2 û Drinking Patiyala Peg Bar ........................... (see 10) 20 Rahi Ilawart Tourist Bungalow ............. C2 Information 21 Apollo Clinic............................................B2 UP Tourism Office........................(see 20) Transport 22 Civil Lines Bus Stand ............................ C2 23 Tempo & Autorickshaw Stand..............A3 24 Zero Road Bus Stand............................ C3

by the Indian army and cannot be visited, but a small door in the eastern wall by Sangam leads to one part you can enter, the underground Patalpuri temple (admission by donation; h7am-5pm). This unique temple is crowded with all sorts of idols – pick up some coins from the change dealers outside so you can leave small oﬀerings as you go. You may be pressured into giving ₹100 at some shrines. A few coins are perfectly acceptable. Outside the temple – though its roots can be seen beneath ground – is the Undying Banyan Tree from which pilgrims used to leap to their deaths, believing it would liberate them from the cycle of rebirth. Khusru Bagh

PARK

This intriguing park, surrounded by huge walls, contains four highly impressive Mughal tombs (admission free; hdawn-dusk). One is that of Prince Khusru, the eldest son of Emperor Jehangir, who tried to assassinate his father but was blinded and imprisoned, finally dying in 1622. If Khusru’s coup had succeeded, his brother, Shah Jahan, would not have become emperor and the Taj Mahal would not exist. A second tomb belongs to Shah Begum, Khusru’s mother (Jehangir’s first wife), who committed suicide in 1603 with an opium overdose because of the ongoing feud be-

SIG H T SPR &ADESH AC T I V I TA UT TAR S ILEGLSHATHSA B&AAC D TIVITIES

æ Sights 1 Allahabad Museum.................................D1 2 Khusru Bagh North Gate....................... A3 3 Khusru Bagh South Gate ...................... A3 4 Nesa Begum's Tomb............................. A3 5 Patalpuri Temple ................................... G4 6 Prince Khusru's Tomb........................... A3 7 Shah Begum's Tomb............................. A3 8 Swaraj Bhavan ........................................ E1 9 Tamolon's Tomb.................................... A3 Undying Banyan Tree..................... (see 5)

14 Royal Hotel .............................................B2

380

DIP DATES The following are the auspicious bathing dates for upcoming mela to be held at Sangam in Allahabad. The 2013 event will be a full-blown Kumbh Mela (see p1103).

UT TAR PR ADESH

2012

2013

2014

2015

9 Jan

14 Jan

5 Jan

14 Jan

27 Jan

16 Jan

14 Jan

23 Jan

10 Feb

30 Jan

20 Jan

28 Jan

15 Feb

4 Feb

24 Jan

7 Feb

25 Feb

14 Feb

3 Feb

20 Feb

10 Mar

28 Feb

17 Feb

tween her son and his father. Between these two, a third, particularly attractive tomb was constructed by Nesa Begum, Khusru’s sister, although was never actually used as a tomb. A smaller structure, called Tamolon’s Tomb, stands to the west of the others, but its origin is unknown. Anand Bhavan MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner ₹10/50; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This picturesque two-storey building is a shrine to the Nehru family, which has produced five generations of leading politicians from Motilal Nehru to the latest political figure, Rahul Gandhi. This stately home is where Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru and others successfully planned the overthrow of the British Raj. It is full of books, personal eﬀects and photos from those stirring times. Indira Gandhi was married here in 1942.

Allahabad Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; Kamla Nehru Marg; h10.30am-4.45pm Tue-Sun) This extensive

museum in the grounds of a pleasant park has archaeological and Nehru family items, modern paintings, miniatures and ancient sculptures.

4 Sleeping

Royal Hotel HOTEL $ (%2427201; Nawab Yusuf Rd; r ₹150-350) This

wonderful old building, near the train station, used to be royal stables but was converted into a hotel by the King of Kalakankar, a former princely state, after he was refused entry into a British-run hotel nearby.

It’s basic and very run down, but has bags of character. The rooms (with 6m-high ceilings) and their bathrooms, are absolutely enormous. Has 24-hour checkout. Hotel Prayag HOTEL $ (%2656416; Noorullah Rd; s ₹250-400, d ₹350450, with AC ₹800-900; ai) South of the train

station, this large, well-equipped, well-run place with an internet cafe and ATM has a wide variety of rooms, so look before you leap into one. It’s pretty old-fashioned and rooms are basic, especially the non-AC ones. Note: the shared bathrooms are tap-andbucket jobs. Hotel Tepso HOTEL $$ (%2561408; MG Marg; dm ₹250, s/d ₹700/900; a) Small clean rooms arranged around a

neat little patio courtyard are on the pricey side, but come with TV and AC. The 12-bed dorm also has its own bathroom. There’s a small children’s playground in the front garden beside the spotless Jade Garden Restaurant. Has 24-hour checkout. Grand Continental HOTEL $$$ (%2260631; www.birhotel.com; Sardar Patel Marg; s ₹3000-4500, d ₹4000-5500, ste ₹6000-8000; aiWs) Rooms are a bit old fashioned,

with carpeted floors and nonmatching furniture, but they’re larger than other top-end choices in town, and staying here means you can use the delightful swimming pool, housed in a beautiful open-air marble courtyard. There’s also a good quality restaurant and a bar where evening ghazal performances are held. Wi-fi is free.

Hotel Valentines HOTEL $$ (%2560030; 7/3/2b Clive Rd, oﬀ MG Marg; d ₹1500-1900; a) Not as romantic as the name

suggests, but smart, comfortable rooms have TV, AC, carpeted floors and big bathrooms with towels and toiletries provided.

5 Eating Allahabadians have a sweet tooth and MG Marg is lined with shops selling ice creams, shakes, cakes and sweets. Outdoor eating is all the rage, with some stalls along MG Marg setting up tables and chairs on the footpath in the evening.

oIndian Coffee House

CAFE $

(MG Marg; coﬀee from ₹13; mains ₹20-32; h8am9pm) This large, airy 50-year-old coﬀee hall

is a top choice for breakfast, with waiters

in fan-tailed headgear serving up delicious south Indian fare – dosa, idli, uttapam – as well as eggs, omelettes and toast. Shahenshah INDIAN $ (MG Marg; mains ₹20-80; h11am-10.30pm) Watch

Aao Ji Haryana Dhaba INDIAN $ (MG Marg; mains ₹20-80; h9am-11pm) This airy

fan-cooled shack is run by friendly staﬀ and serves up great-value south Indian breakfasts as well as thalis (₹40-55) and north Indian curries. El Chico MULTICUISINE $$ (MG Marg; mains ₹100-240; hnoon-3pm & 7.3011pm; a) A swish restaurant with a reliable

Indian, Chinese and continental menu, including fish dishes and sizzlers. Next door,

El Chico Takeaway (snacks ₹12-60; h9am10.30pm) tempts diners with ice creams,

cakes, cookies and savoury snacks.

Kamdhenu Sweets SWEETS (MG Marg; snacks ₹5-25; h9am-10pm) Very

popular snack shop selling delicious homebaked sweets (from ₹240 per box) as well as cakes, samosas, sandwiches and ice cream (from ₹25).

Jade Garden INDIAN $$ (Hotel Tepso, MG Marg; mains ₹100-250; h11am11pm; a) Spotless hotel restaurant with

attentive black-tie staff serving Indian, Chinese, nonveg sizzlers, salads and tandoori.

Bus From the Civil Lines bus stand regular buses run to Varanasi (₹85, three hours), Lucknow (₹130, five hours), Faizabad (₹110, five hours) and Gorakhpur (₹180, eight hours). More comfortable AC buses are much less frequent and about twice the price. To get to Delhi or Agra, change in Lucknow, or take a train. For hourly buses to Chitrakut (₹82, four hours, 3am to 9pm), head to Zero Road bus stand. Train Allahabad Junction is the main station. A few daily trains run to Lucknow, Varanasi, Delhi, Agra and Kolkata. Frequent trains also run to Satna from where you can catch buses to Khajuraho. Also see p 382.

8 Getting Around

Cycle-rickshaws (₹20 for a short trip) are plentiful. The train station is your best bet for autos. A return auto to Sangam should cost around ₹150. Consider hiring one for half a day (₹300, four hours) to take in more of the sights. Vikrams (large shared autos) hang about on the south side of the train station. Destinations include Zero Road Bus Stand (₹5) and Sangam (₹10).

% 05198 / POP 22,294

Patiyala Peg Bar BAR (Grand Continental hotel, Sardar Patel Marg) Has

live ghazal music nightly from 7.30pm.

8 Information

Air Bamrauli airport is 15km west of Allahabad. Air India (%2581370; hincoming flights), at the airport, has daily flights to Delhi from ₹4500, except on Sunday. An autorickshaw to the airport costs ₹150 to ₹200, a taxi about ₹350.

Chitrakut

Drinking

Rahi Ilawart Tourist Bungalow (h11am-11pm)

8 Getting There & Away

BAR

ATMs dot the Civil Lines area. Apollo Clinic (%3290507; MG Marg; h8am8pm) A modern private medical facility with 24-hour pharmacy.

Known as a mini Varanasi because of its many temples and ghats, this small, peaceful town on the banks of the River Mandakini is the stuﬀ of Hindu legends. It is here that Hinduism’s principal trinity – Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva – took on their incarnations. It is also the place where Lord Rama is believed to have spent 11½ years of his 14-year exile after being banished from his birthplace in Ayodhya at the behest of a jealous stepmother.

381

D RTAR I N K IPR N GADESH C UT DH RIN T RK A I NKGU T

young chefs frying up their creations from a couple of stalls set around a half open-air seating area with plastic tables and chairs and a high corrugated iron roof. This is nononsense, cheap eating, but it’s popular with the locals so there’s a nice atmosphere. The menu includes uttapam, paratha (flaky bread made with ghee and cooked on a hotplate), a few Chinese dishes, pizza and some absolutely cracking dosa. The fruit beer isn’t alcoholic.

Cyber Cafe (per hr ₹20; h9am-9pm) Behind Shahenshah restaurant. Post office (Sarojini Naidu Marg; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) UP Tourism (%2408873; rtoalld_upt@yahoo. co.in; 35 MG Marg; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) At the Rahi Ilawart Tourist Bungalow. Very helpful.

382

HANDY TRAINS FROM ALLAHABAD

UT TAR PR ADESH

DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR) DEPARTURES

Agra

12403 ALD MTJ Exp

220/561/755

7½

11.30pm

Kolkata (Howrah)

12312 Kalka Mail

318/841/1142

5.30pm

Lucknow

14209 ALD-LKO Intercity

244*

4½

3.20pm

New Delhi

12559 Shiv Ganga Exp

277/723/979

10.30pm

Satna

13201 Rajendra-Nagar Exp

120/287/387

4½

8.25am

Varanasi

15017 Gorakhpur Exp

120/243/326

8.35am

Fares are sleeper/3AC/2AC; *AC chair only

Today Chitrakut attracts throngs of pilgrims, giving the area a strong religious quality, particularly by Ram Ghat, the town’s centre of activity, and at the holy hill of Kamadgiri, 2km away. Dozens, sometimes hundreds, of devotees descend onto Ram Ghat to take holy dips at dawn before returning at the end of the day for the evening aarti. Rowboats wait here to take you across to the opposite bank (₹5), which is actually in Madhya Pradesh, or to scenic spots along the river. The 2km-trip to the Glass Temple (₹100 return), a building covered in religious mosaics made with thousands of pieces of coloured glass, is popular. During the day, many people make their way to Kamadgiri (₹5 by tempo), a hill revered as the holy embodiment of Lord Rama. A 5km-circuit (90 minutes) around the base of the hill takes you past prostrating pilgrims, innumerable monkeys and temples galore. The most enjoyable place to stay in Chitrakut is Pitra Smiviti Vishramgrah (%9450223214; Ram Ghat; r ₹350, without bathroom ₹200). Rooms built just in front of

Bada Math, a 300-year-old red-stone palace, are very basic, but lead out onto a huge shared balcony overlooking Ram Ghat. Look for the word ‘Lodge’ painted on the balcony. There are more comfortable rooms at UP

Tourist Bungalow (%224219; dm ₹125-300, s/d/tr with AC ₹750/800/950; a), which also has an OK restaurant (mains ₹40-70; h6ammidnight).

Shared minivans and tempos ply the 10km route from the train station to Ram Ghat (₹8), passing the bus stand (2km from the train station) and the UP Tourist Bungalow (1km before Ram Ghat). With the exception of buses to Allahabad (₹82, four hours), which run regularly all day,

buses in Chitrakut are notoriously unreliable. There should be a couple a day to both Varanasi (₹160, seven hours) and Khajuraho (₹76, four hours), leaving at around midday, but they don’t always materialise. For Varanasi, you’re better oﬀ changing in Allahabad. For Khajuraho, you will probably have to change once, twice or even three times, via either Satna or Banda, Mahoba and Chhatarpur. Trains tend to pass through Chitrakut at stupid o’clock. Ones you may consider anyway are: Agra (12189 Mahakaushal Exp sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹226/577/780, nine hours, 11.24pm), Varanasi (11107 Bundelkhand Exp, ₹143/391/504, seven hours, 3.52am) and Khajuraho (21108 BSB-KURJ Link E, ₹120/297/400, four hours, 1.03am Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday).

Jhansi % 0510 / POP 420,665

Jhansi is mostly used by travellers on their way to Orchha, Gwalior or Khajuraho, all in Madhya Pradesh. The fort here is of some interest, but otherwise there’s little reason to linger. History

When the raja here died in 1853, his widow and successor, Rani Lakshmibai, was forcibly retired by the British (a controversial law allowed them to take over any princely state under their patronage if the ruler died without a male heir). During the First War of Independence four years later, Rani Lakshmibai was at the forefront of Jhansi’s rebellion. The British contingent here was massacred, but the following year the British retook Jhansi. The rani fled to Gwalior. In a fatal last stand she rode out against the

British disguised as a man and subsequently became a heroine of Indian Independence.

1 Sights

Jhansi Fort HISTORIC BUILDING (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk)

4 Sleeping & Eating There are a number of cheap places around the bus station where you can grab a snack on the run.

8 Getting There & Away

Bus Buses for Khajuraho leave from the bus stand (₹120, five to six hours) at 6am, 7am, 8am, 9am, 11am, noon and 2pm. Regular buses go to Gwalior (₹70, three hours, 9am-10pm). Train Several daily trains run to Gwalior, Agra and Delhi. In addition to the middle-of-the-night, thrice-weekly fast train to Khajuraho, there is also one daily slow train that leaves at 7.20am, takes around five hours and costs ₹30 for a ‘general’ ticket. See p 383.

Hotel Samrat HOTEL $ (%2444943; Elite Rd; s/d from ₹400/500, with AC from ₹775/875; a) This well-run hotel,

8 Getting Around

Red Tomato INDIAN $$ (Hotel Samrat; Elite Rd; mains ₹50-150; h7am10.30pm;a) This smart, clean restaurant at

Varanasi

walking distance from the train station, has decent rooms, all with TV and private bathroom, although the cheaper ones have squat toilets. Turn left out of the station then right at the roundabout.

Hotel Samrat has a good choice of breakfasts plus curries and kebabs.

8 Information

Madhya Pradesh Tourism (%2442622; h10am-6pm) On Platform 1 at the train sta-

Tempos run all the main routes in Jhansi. Prices include: train station to bus station ₹8; train station to Hotel Samrat ₹2; bus station to Jhansi Fort ₹5; and bus station to Orchha ₹10. Autos cost up to 10 times more.

% 0542 / POP 1.2 MILLION

Brace yourself. You’re about to enter one of the most blindingly colourful, unrelentingly chaotic and unapologetically indiscreet places on earth. Varanasi takes no prisoners. But if you’re ready for it, this may just turn out to be your favourite stop of all.

HANDY TRAINS FROM JHANSI DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

DEPARTURE

Agra

12137 Punjab Mail

147/355/471

3½

2.30pm

Delhi

12615 Grand Trunk Exp

204/519/697

6½

11.40pm

Gwalior

12137 Punjab Mail

140/240/309

1½

2.30pm

Mumbai

12138 Punjab Mail

379/1010/1378

12.35pm

Varanasi

11107 Bundelkhand Exp

229/615/842

12½

10.30pm

Fares are sleeper/3AC/2AC

383

SIG H T SPR ADESH VA UT TAR S I GRHATNSA S I

Built in 1613 by Maharaja Bir Singh Deo of Orchha, Jhansi Fort still bears signs of the blood-letting that took place within its double walls and moat, once inhabited by crocodiles. These days its shaded lawns make for pleasant strolls and there are some good views of the city and surrounding rocky outcrops. Near the flag turret is a parapet, over which the fleeing Rani Lakshmibai, with her adopted son mounted behind her, rode her horse. The horse is said to have died, but the story still seems incredible looking at the steep, rocky slope 15m below.

tion; has leaflets and mini guides to the area’s popular destinations. Net Blast (per hr ₹20; h9am-9pm) Internet cafe 200m from Hotel Samrat. Left out of train station, left at roundabout, on right. State Bank of India (Elite Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Changes money and travellers cheques; there’s an ATM outside the train station.

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Also known at various times in history as Kashi (City of Life) and Benares, this is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities and is regarded as one of Hinduism’s seven holy cities. Pilgrims come to the ghats lining the River Ganges here to wash away a life-

time of sins in the sacred waters or to cremate their loved ones. It’s a particularly auspicious place to die, since expiring here oﬀers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death), making Varanasi the beating heart of the Hindu universe. Most visitors agree it’s a magical

385

Varanasi æ Top Sights Assi Ghat ................................................ C5 Ramnagar Fort & Museum ................... D6

11 12 13

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Gateway Hotel Ganges .................. (see 5) Hotel Clarks Varanasi..................... (see 6) Hotel Surya ..................................... (see 8) 3 International Centre .............................. B6 Palace on Ganges ........................... (see 7) 4 Pragati Hindi .......................................... C4 ÿ Sleeping Chaitanya Guest House ................. (see 7) 5 Gateway Hotel Ganges ..........................A1 6 Hotel Clarks Varanasi.............................A1 7 Hotel Ganges View ................................ C5 8 Hotel Surya .............................................A1 9 Kedareswar............................................ C4 Palace on Ganges ........................... (see 7) Sahi River View Guesthouse.......... (see 7) Shiva Ganges View Paying Guest House ......................................... (see 13) ú Eating 10 Brownie ...................................................A1

place, but it’s not for the faint-hearted. Here the most intimate rituals of life and death take place in public and the sights, sounds and smells in and around the ghats – not to mention the almost constant attention from touts – can be overwhelming. Persevere. Varanasi is unique, and a walk along the ghats or a boat ride on the river will live long in the memory. The old city of Varanasi is situated along the western bank of the Ganges and extends back from the riverbank ghats in a labyrinth of alleys called galis that are too narrow for traﬃc. They can be disorienting, but the popular hotels and restaurants are usually signposted and, however lost you become, you will eventually end up at a ghat and get your bearings. You can walk all the way along the ghats, apart from during and immediately after the monsoon, when the river level is too high. Most places of interest, and much of the accommodation, are in the old city. Behind the station is the peaceful Cantonment area, home to most of the top-end hotels.

ü Drinking Aum Cafe .......................................(see 14) Mango Tree..................................... (see 8) 15 Open Hand..............................................C5 Prinsep Bar ..................................... (see 5) þ Shopping 16 Baba Blacksheep....................................C4 17 Benares Art & Culture............................C4 18 Khadi Gramodyog ..................................B5 19 Mehrotra Silk Factory ............................B2 20 Shri Gandhi Ashram Khadi ....................................................C2 Information 21 Heritage Hospital & 24-hour Pharmacy.............................................C5 Transport 22 Bus Stand ...............................................B2 23 Cycle Repair Shop..................................C5 24 Indian Airlines......................................... A1

History

Thought to date back to around 1200 BC, Varanasi really rose to prominence in the 8th century AD, when Shankaracharya, a reformer of Hinduism, established Shiva worship as the principal sect. The Afghans destroyed Varanasi around AD 1300, after laying waste to nearby Sarnath, but the fanatical Mughal emperor Aurangzeb was the most destructive, looting and destroying almost all of the temples. The old city of Varanasi may look antique, but few buildings are more than a couple of hundred years old.

1 Sights Ghats

GHATS

Spiritually enlightening and fantastically photogenic, Varanasi is at its brilliant best by the ghats, the long stretch of steps leading down to the water on the western bank of the Ganges. Most are used for bathing but there are also several ‘burning ghats’ where bodies are cremated in public. The main one is

SIG H T SPR ADESH VA UT TAR S I GRHATNSA S I

æ Sights 1 Alamgir Mosque..................................... D3 2 Bharat Kala Bhavan............................... B6

Canton Restaurant......................... (see 8) Eden Restaurant ....................................B2 Haifa Restaurant ....................................C5 Lotus Lounge..........................................C4 Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe .............................C5 Varuna Restaurant......................... (see 5)

Southern Stretch Assi Ghat (Map p384), the furthest south of the main ghats, and one of the biggest, is particularly important as the River Assi meets the Ganges near here and pilgrims come to worship a Shiva lingam (phallic image of Shi-

Old City Stretch Varanasi’s liveliest and most colourful ghat is Dasaswamedh Ghat (Map p386), easily

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18 St Thomas' Church

Rd Luxa

#2 Ø

‚

To Main Post Office (1.5km)

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To Varanasi Junction Train Station (2.5km)

400 m 0.2 miles

# Lalita

# 4Ø

#3 Ø # 14 ú ú 13 ÿ # ##

Ghat

Meer Ghat

Man Mandir Ghat

Dasaswamedh Ghat

Chausatti Ghat Rana Ghat

Ahalya Bai's Ghat

Pandhey Ghat 19 # # Raja Ghat 6ÿ # Munshi Ghat

To Benares Hindu University (3.5km) A

# ý

nga li Tola

THE OLD CITY

Manikarnika Ghat

44444 44444 44444 44444 44444 #

# 10 ÿ

## ÿ

Scindhia Ghat # Dattatreya # Ghat

Ga ng es

Ri ve r

The Old City

Mand apur Rd

UT TAR PR ADESH

va) beneath a peepul tree. Evenings are particularly lively, as the ghat’s vast concreted area fills up with hawkers and entertainers. It’s a popular starting point for boat trips and there are some excellent hotels here. Nearby Tulsi Ghat (Map p384), named after a 16th-century Hindu poet, has fallen down towards the river but in the month of Kartika (October/November) a festival devoted to Krishna is celebrated here. Next along, Bachraj Ghat (Map p384) has three Jain temples. A small Shiva temple and a 19th-century mansion built by Nepali royalty, sit back from Shivala Ghat (Map p384), built by the local maharaja of Benares. The Dandi Ghat (Map p384) is used by ascetics known as Dandi Panths, and nearby is the very popular Hanuman Ghat (Map p384). Harishchandra Ghat (Map p384) is a cremation ghat – smaller and secondary in importance to Manikarnika, but one of the oldest ghats in Varanasi. Above it, Kedar Ghat (Map p384) has a shrine popular with Bengalis and South Indians. Mansarowar Ghat was built by Raja Man Singh of Amber and named after the Tibetan lake at the foot of Mt Kailash, Shiva’s Himalayan home.

Manikarnika: you’ll often see funeral processions threading their way through the backstreets to this ghat. The best time to visit the ghats is at dawn when the river is bathed in a mellow light as pilgrims come to perform puja (literally ‘respect’; oﬀering or prayers) to the rising sun, and at sunset when the main ganga aarti (river worship ceremony) takes place at Dasaswamedh Ghat. About 80 ghats border the river, but the main group extends from Assi Ghat, near the university, northwards to Raj Ghat, near the road and rail bridge. A boat trip along the river provides the perfect introduction, although for most of the year the water level is low enough for you to walk freely along the whole length of the ghats. It’s a world-class ‘people-watching’ stroll as you mingle with the fascinating mixture of people who come to the Ganges not only for a ritual bath but also to wash clothes, do yoga, oﬀer blessings, sell flowers, get a massage, play cricket, wash their buffaloes, improve their karma by giving to beggars or simply hang around.

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386

calculated. Each type of wood has its own price, sandalwood being the most expensive. There is an art to using just enough wood to completely incinerate a corpse. You can watch cremations but always show reverence by behaving respectfully. Photography is strictly prohibited. You’re almost guaranteed to be led by a priest, or more likely a guide, to the upper floor of a nearby building from where you can watch cremations taking place, and then asked for a donation (in dollars) towards the cost of wood. If you don’t want to make a donation, don’t follow them. Above the steps here is a tank known as the Manikarnika Well. Parvati is said to have dropped her earring here and Shiva dug the tank to recover it, filling the depression with his sweat. The Charanpaduka, a slab of stone between the well and the ghat, bears footprints made by Vishnu. Privileged VIPs are cremated at the Charanpaduka, which also has a temple dedicated to Ganesh. Dattatreya Ghat (Map p386) bears the footprint of the Brahmin saint of that name in a small temple nearby. Scindhia Ghat (Map p386) was originally built in 1830, but was so huge and magnificent that it collapsed into the river and had to be rebuilt. Northern Stretch Continuing north from Scindhia Ghat, you soon reach Ram Ghat (Map p384), which

The Old City æ Top Sights Vishwanath Temple................................C1

9 Puja Guest House................................... C1 10 Rashmi Guest House .............................C2 11 Shanti Guest House ............................... D1

æ Sights 1 Gyan Kupor Well .....................................C1

12 Uma Guesthouse ................................... C1 13 Vishnu Rest House.................................B3

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Ankit Music House.......................... (see 5) 2 Bhasha Bharati Language Institute ................................................C1 International Music Centre Ashram ....................................... (see 21) Learn for Life Society ................... (see 12) 3 Musical Instrument Shops.................... B3 Rashmi Guest House.................... (see 10) 4 Saraswati Education Center................. B3 5 Yoga Training Centre ............................ C2

ú Eating 14 Apsara Restaurant.................................B3 15 Brown Bread Bakery..............................C2 Dolphin Restaurant.......................(see 10) 16 Keshari Ruchikar Byanjan .....................B2 17 Madhur Milan Cafe.................................C2 18 Phulwari .................................................. B1 19 VSR..........................................................B3

ÿ Sleeping 6 Eden Halt................................................ B3 7 Ganpati Guest House ............................ C2 8 Hotel Alka ............................................... C2

ý Entertainment 21 International Music Centre Ashram.................................................B2

ü Drinking 20 Blue Lassi................................................ C1

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SIG H T SPR ADESH VA UT TAR S I GRHATNSA S I

reached at the end of the main road from Godaulia Crossing. The name indicates that Brahma sacrificed (medh) 10 (das) horses (aswa) here. In spite of the oppressive boat owners, flower sellers and touts trying to drag you oﬀ to a silk shop, it’s a wonderful place to linger and people-watch while soaking up the atmosphere. Every evening at 7pm an elaborate ganga aarti ceremony with puja, fire and dance is staged here. Just south of here is Someswar Ghat (Lord of the Moon Ghat), said to be able to heal diseases. The Munshi Ghat (Map p386) is very photogenic, while Ahalya Bai’s Ghat (Map p386) is named after the female Maratha ruler of Indore. Just north of Dasaswamedh Ghat, Raja Man Singh’s Man Mandir Ghat (Map p386) was built in 1600, but was poorly restored in the 19th century. The northern corner of the ghat has a fine stone balcony. Nearby Meer Ghat (Map p386) leads to a Nepali temple, which has erotic sculptures. Manikarnika Ghat (Map p386), the main burning ghat, is the most auspicious place for a Hindu to be cremated. Dead bodies are handled by outcasts known as doms, and are carried through the alleyways of the old city to the holy Ganges on a bamboo stretcher swathed in cloth. The corpse is doused in the Ganges prior to cremation. Huge piles of firewood are stacked along the top of the ghat; every log is carefully weighed on giant scales so that the price of cremation can be

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THE VARANASI SHAKEDOWN

UT TAR PR ADESH

If you thought the touts and rickshaw-wallahs were annoying in Agra, wait till you get to Varanasi. The attention here, particularly around the ghats and the Old City, is incredible: you will have to put up with persistent oﬀers from touts and drivers of ‘cheapest and best’ boat trips, guides, tour operators, travel agents, silk shops and money changers (to name a few). Take it in good humour but politely refuse. Don’t take photos at the ‘burning’ ghats and resist oﬀers to ‘follow me for a better view’, where you’ll be pressured for money and possibly be placed in an uncomfortable situation.

was built by a maharaja of Jaipur. Just beyond it Panchganga Ghat (Map p384), as its name indicates, is where five rivers are supposed to meet. Dominating the ghat is Aurangzeb’s smaller mosque, also known as the Alamgir Mosque (Map p384), which he built on the site of a large Vishnu temple. Gai Ghat (Map p384) has a figure of a cow made of stone. Trilochan Ghat (Map p384) has two turrets emerging from the river, and the water between them is especially holy. Just north of here, Raj Ghat was the ferry pier until the road and rail bridge was completed. Vishwanath Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Golden Temple; Map p386) There are temples

at almost every turn in Varanasi, but this is the most famous of the lot. It is dedicated to Vishveswara – Shiva as lord of the universe. The current temple was built in 1776 by Ahalya Bai of Indore; the 800kg of gold plating on the tower and dome was supplied by Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore 50 years later. The area is full of soldiers because of security issues and communal tensions. Bags, cameras and mobile phones must be deposited in lockers (₹25-50) before you enter the alleyway it’s in. Non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple itself, although this is not always strictly enforced. On the northern side of Vishwanath Temple is the Gyan Kupor Well (Well of Knowledge; Map p386). The faithful believe drinking its water leads to a higher spiritual plane, though they are prevented from doing so by a strong security screen. NonHindus are also not allowed to enter here, and here the rule is enforced more strictly. Benares Hindu University HISTORIC SITE (BHU; Map p384; www.bhu.ac.in) Long regarded

as a centre of learning, Varanasi’s tradition of top-quality education continues today at Benares Hindu University, established in 1916. The wide tree-lined streets and parkland of the 5-sq-km campus oﬀer a peace-

ful atmosphere a world away from the city outside. On campus is Bharat Kala Bhavan

(Map p384; %316337; Indian/foreigner ₹10/100, camera ₹50; h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.30am1pm May-Jun), a roomy museum with a won-

derful collection of miniature paintings, as well as 12th-century palm-leaf manuscripts, sculptures and local history displays. The attractive New Vishwanath Temple (oﬀ Map p384; h4am-noon & 1-9pm), unlike most temples in Varanasi, is open to all, irrespective of religion. Ramnagar Fort & Museum MUSEUM (Map p384; %2339322; museum admission ₹7; h9am-noon & 2-5.30pm) This crumbling but

impressive 17th-century fort and palace, on the eastern bank of the Ganges, is a beautiful place to watch the sun set over the river. It also houses an eccentric museum. There are vintage American cars, jewel-encrusted sedan chairs, a superb weaponry section and an extremely unusual astrological clock. The current maharaja, Anant Narayan Singh – still known in these parts as the Maharaja of Benares despite such royal titles being oﬃcially abolished in 1971 – continues his family tradition of attending the annual monthlong Ram Lila drama festival (p346) held in the streets behind the fort. Boats operate a shuttle service across the river (₹10 return, 10 minutes) between 5am and 8pm, but from November to June you can also cross on the somewhat unsteady pontoon bridge. A boat all the way back to Dasaswamedh Ghat is ₹200-300.

Activities

Nonguests can use the outdoor swimming pools (Map p384) at Hotel Surya (₹200), Hotel Clarks Varanasi (₹300) and Gateway Hotel Ganges (₹350). River Trips

BOATING

A dawn rowing boat ride along the Ganges is a quintessential Varanasi experience. The early morning light is particularly inspiring,

them with a proper education. The school runs classes in English, Maths and Science as well as activities such as music, art and games. Volunteers are welcomed for help with teaching and supervising.

and all the colour and clamour of pilgrims bathing and performing puja unfolds before you. An hour-long trip south from Dasaswamedh Ghat to Harishchandra Ghat and back is popular, but be prepared to see a burning corpse at Harishchandra. Early evening is also a good time to be on the river, when you can light a lotus flower candle (₹10) and set it adrift on the water before watching the nightly ganga aarti ceremony (7pm) at Dasaswamedh Ghat directly from the boat. Boats, available at most ghats, cost about ₹100 per person per hour, but be prepared for some hard bargaining. Another trip worth considering is the lazy one-hour motorboat trip to Ramnagar Fort, which should cost around ₹100 per person from Dasaswamedh Ghat. Many guesthouses oﬀer boat trips, although they’re more expensive than dealing with the boatmen directly.

Sunil Kumar runs classes three times a day on the 3rd floor of a small backstreet building near Meer Ghat. He teaches an integrated blend of hatha, Iyengar, pranayama and ashtanga, and serious students can continue on certificate and diploma courses. This place is highly recommended by travellers.

Hotel Surya MASSAGE (Map p384; %2508465; www.hotelsuryavns.com; The Mall; massage from ₹300; h8am-8pm) Oﬀers

Ankit Music House INDIAN MUSIC (Map p386; %9336567134; ankitmusichouse@hot mail.com; 5/15 Sakarkand Gali; per hr ₹150 to ₹250)

Learn for Life Society VOLUNTEERING (Map p386; %2403566, 6450232; www.learn-for -life.net) This small charity, contacted through

the nearby Brown Bread Bakery, has established a small school for disadvantaged children, and travellers are welcome to turn up and help out. The charity also runs a women’s empowerment group, oﬀering fairly paid work to local women, some of whom are mothers of the school’s students. The women make produce such as jams and pickles, which travellers can buy from Brown Bread Bakery. See the website for more details.

Saraswati Education Center VOLUNTEERING (Map p386; %9839105112; www.varanasivolunteer .blogspot.com; D.32/22 Hathiphatak, Bengali Tola Lane) This reader-recommended NGO runs

a school for around 40 to 50 children whose families don’t have the money to provide

C Courses Beware of ‘fake’ yoga teachers who are mainly interested in hands-on lessons with young females. Yoga Training Centre YOGA (Map p386;%9919857895; www.yogatrainingcentre .com, yoga_sunil@hotmail.com; Sakarkand Gali; 2hr class ₹200; h8am, 10am & 4pm) Yoga master

In the same building as the Yoga Training Centre, in the alleys near Meer Ghat, this friendly place oﬀers classical music tuition. Instructors Bablu and Vijay can also give advice on buying musical instruments.

Bhasha Bharati Language LANGUAGE Institute (Map p386; %9839076805; www.bhashabharati. com; 19/8 Thatheri Bazaar, Chowk; per hr ₹300)

This long-running language institute, housed in a charming old courtyard, oﬀers small classes. You must book at least a one-week block of classes including at least two hours per day. All-inclusive family homestays – staying in the courtyard building where classes are taught, and including six hours of tuition a day – can be arranged (from ₹13500). Book courses two weeks in advance. Pragati Hindi LANGUAGE (Map p384; (%9335376488; pragatihindi@yahoo. com; B-7/176 Kedar Ghat) Readers recommend

VARANASI’S TOP FIVE GHATS » Dasaswamedh Ghat (p386) Especially for the evening ganga aarti ceremony » Manikarnika Ghat (p387)– Varanasi’s primary cremation ghat » Assi Ghat (p386) Large and lively, especially early evening

» Harishchandra Ghat (p386) Another prominent cremation ghat » Panchganga Ghat (p388) Dominated by Alamgir Mosque

C OTAR U R SPR E S ADESH VA UT C ORUARNS AE S I

perhaps the best-value massage treatments in Varanasi.

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the flexibility of the one-to-one classes taught here by the amiable Rajeswar Mukherjee (Raju). Private classes start from ₹200 per hour. Call ahead, or just drop in, to meet Raju and arrange a schedule. Walk up the lane opposite Kedar Ghat and take the first left.

UT TAR PR ADESH

International Music Centre Ashram INDIAN MUSIC (Map p386; %2452303; keshavaraonayak@hotmail.com; per hr ₹200) This family-run centre

is hidden in the tangle of backstreets off Bengali Tola. It offers sitar, tabla, flute and classical dance tuition, and performances are held every Saturday and Wednesday evening at 8pm (₹100). There’s a small, easy-to-miss sign on Bengali Tola directing you here. If you can’t find it, there are loads of musical-instrument shops on Bengali Tola (Map p386), many of which offer tuition. Yoga Education Training Society YOGA (www.varanasiindiango.jimdo.com; 2hr class ₹150-300) Founder of Saraswati Education

Center, Somit Dutta, also runs this society.

International Centre VARIOUS (Map p384; %2368130; trraobhu@hotmail.com; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) If you’re interested in

studying at Benares Hindu University, contact this centre. Courses on offer include Hindi, Sanskrit, yoga, ayurveda studies, and weaving and handicraft.

T Tours

UP Tourism Office CITY TOUR (%2506670; Varanasi Junction train station; half-/ full day tour per person ₹900/1400; h7am-7pm) If

time is short, UP Tourism can arrange guided tours by taxi of the major sites, including a 5.30am boat ride and an afternoon trip to Sarnath.

4 Sleeping The majority of Varanasi’s budget hotels – and some midrange gems – are concentrated in the most interesting part of the city – the tangle of narrow streets back from the ghats along the River Ganges. There’s a concentration around Assi Ghat, while others are in the crazy, bustling northern stretch of alleys between Scindhia and Meer Ghat, part of an area we refer to as the Old City. Varanasi has an active paying-guest house scheme with more than 100 family homes available for accommodation from ₹200 to ₹2000 a night. UP Tourism has a full list.

OLD CITY AREA

oGanpati Guesthouse

GUESTHOUSE $

(Map p386; %2390059; www.ganpatiguesthouse. com; Meer Ghat; r ₹700-1000; r without bathroom ₹350-550, iW) Loads more character than

next-door Hotel Alka, which is also a great choice, this old red-brick building has a pleasant, shaded, wi-fi-enabled courtyard as well as plenty of balcony space dotted around oﬀering fine river views. Nicely painted rooms are colourful and clean and the ones facing out onto the Ganges (₹550) are lovely and spacious. Hotel Alka GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p386; %2401681; www.hotelalkavns.com; Meer Ghat; r ₹450-750, with AC ₹800-1700;ai)

An excellent ghat-side option, Alka has pretty much spotless rooms that open onto, or overlook a large, plant-filled courtyard. In the far corner, a terrace juts out over Meer Ghat for one of the best views in all of Varanasi, a view shared from the balconies of the pricier rooms.

Uma Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p386; %2403566, 9628698015; brown breadbakery@yahoo.com; d ₹300, s/d without bathroom ₹150/250, ) Part of the Learn for

Life Society run by the excellent Brown Bread Bakery, this homely place has basic but clean rooms that are looked after by some of the women involved with the charity. A percentage of your bill goes to the charity that runs the school behind the guesthouse. Bookings should be made through the bakery, where you can also ask about volunteering or donating. Shanti Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p386; %2392568; varanasishanti@yahoo. com; Manikarnika Ghat; d ₹200-350, with AC from ₹500; aiW) Big, bold and bright yellow,

Shanti is as popular as ever. Rooms are basic – often nothing more than a bed in a stonefloor room – but this place is well looked after (even the communal bathrooms are clean). In any case, it’s the very high, 24-hour rooftop restaurant with pool table and fabulous views of the Ganges that really pulls in the punters. Wi-fi isn’t free. Kedareswar HOTEL $$ (Map p384; %2455568; www.kedareswarguest house.com; Chowki Ghat; d ₹600, with AC ₹10001600; a) Housed in a brightly painted, aqua-

marine green building, this friendly place has small but immaculate rooms with spar-

kling bathrooms. There’s only one cheaper non-AC room, so it might be worth phoning ahead. Chowki Ghat is right beside Kedar Ghat. Vishnu Rest House GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p386; %2455238; Pandhey Ghat; r from ₹200) Accessed through a small courtyard

Shiva Ganges View Paying GUESTHOUSE $$ Guest House (Map p384; %2450063; www.varanasiguesthouse .com; Mansarowar Ghat; r ₹2000-2500, with AC ₹3000; ste ₹5000 a) Next to Lotus Lounge

Restaurant, this delightful, bright-red brick building is part of the city’s paying-guest house scheme. Rooms here ooze character, with central double beds, high ceilings, chunky door and window shutters, and some attractive ornaments on shelves. All have river views and spotlessly clean bathrooms. Home-cooked food is also available. The one downside – the manager can be a bit pushy. Eden Halt GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p386; %2454612; Raja Ghat; d ₹400-500 , s/d without bathroom ₹200/300) This friend-

ly, pocket-sized guesthouse only has four rooms. Two have private bathrooms, two have river views. All are simple, but spacious and come with interesting alcoves and builtin shelving (just in case you bring along your favourite ornaments). A simple roof terrace overlooks peaceful Raja Ghat, but be prepared to fight monkeys for space on it. Rashmi Guest House HOTEL $$$ (Map p386; %2402778; www.rashmiguesthouse .com; rashmiguesthouse@sify.com; Man Mandir

Puja Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p386; %2405027; www.pujaguesthouse. com; Lalita Ghat; r from ₹350, without bathroom from ₹150; i) Hidden away up an alley over-

looking Lalita Ghat, this towering building oﬀers extremely basic, but clean enough, cheap rooms. The rooftop restaurant is one of Varanasi’s tallest, with superb 180-degree views of the river and free sitar-and-tabla performances every evening from 8pm. ASSI GHAT AREA

oHotel Ganges View

HOTEL $$

(Map p384; %2313218; www.hotelgangesview .com; Assi Ghat; r ₹1000, with AC ₹3000; a) Sim-

ply gorgeous, this beautifully restored and maintained colonial-style house overlooking Assi Ghat is crammed with books, artwork and antiques. Rooms are spacious and immaculate and there are some charming communal areas in which to sit and relax, including a lovely 1st-floor garden terrace. Book ahead.

Palace on Ganges HOTEL $$$ (Map p384; %2315050; palaceonganges@india times.com; Assi Ghat; d ₹2500-3500; ai) Each

room in this immaculate heritage accommodation is individually themed on a regional Indian style, using antique furnishings and colourful design themes. The colonial, Rajasthan and Jodhpur rooms are among the best. The spa and massage centre (Ayur Arogyam) is also very good.

VARANASI’S TOP FIVE RIVERSIDE RETREATS » Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe (p393) Tree-shaded veranda overlooking Assi Ghat. » Lotus Lounge (p392) Laid-back yet chic.

» Hotel Ganges View (p391) Sip tea in style from the gorgeous first-floor garden terrace.

» Puja Guest House (p391) Offers 180-degree rooftop views with live classical music every evening. » Vishnu Rest House (p391) Simple stone terrace sandwiched between Pandhey Ghat and a colourful temple.

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S LTAR E E P IPR N GADESH VA UT S L EREAPNIANSGI

with family homes coming oﬀ it, or directly from Pandhey Ghat itself, this simple guesthouse is a pleasant place to stay. Some rooms are poky and not the cleanest, but the atmosphere is friendly and the stone terrace overlooking the ghat is a winner.

Ghat; d ₹2500-6500; ai) Sparkling whitetiled corridors and marble staircases lead to clean and modern rooms, which are small but smart. Many have views of Man Mandir Ghat, although the excellent rooftop Dolphin Restaurant oﬀers the best views of all. Ayurvedic massage (₹1250) is also available.

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Chaitanya Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p384; %2313686; Assi Ghat; s/d ₹350/400, d with AC ₹800; a) In complete contrast to next-

UT TAR PR ADESH

door Sahi River View Guesthouse, Chaitanya has just four rooms: a single, two doubles and a double with AC. All are comfortable, with high ceilings and clean bathrooms, and are well looked after by friendly staﬀ.

Sahi River View Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p384; %2366730; sahi_rvgh@sify.com; Assi Ghat; r from ₹250, with AC from ₹625; a) There’s

a huge variety of rooms at this friendly place. Most are good quality and clean, and some have interesting private balconies. Each floor has a pleasant communal seating area with river view, creating a great feeling of space throughout. CANTONMENT AREA Hotel Surya HOTEL $$ (Map p384;%2508465; www.hotelsuryavns.com; 20/51 The Mall; s/d ₹600/800, with AC from ₹1200/1500;aiWs) Varanasi’s cheapest

hotel with a swimming pool, Surya has OK modern rooms, built around a huge lawn area that includes a laid-back Middle Eastern– style cafe (Mango Tree). There’s a nice swimming pool area, a quality restaurant (Canton Royale) housed in a 150-year-old heritage building, and a recommended massage centre. Wi-fi costs ₹60. Gateway Hotel Ganges HOTEL $$$ (Map p384; %2503001; www.thegatewayhotels. com; Raja Bazaar Rd; r ₹9000-10,500, ste ₹11,50013,500; aiWs) Varanasi’s best hotel is set

in five hectares of beautiful gardens with fruit trees, a tennis court, a pool, an outdoor yoga centre and the old maharaja’s guesthouse. You can walk, cycle or take a ride in a maharaja’s buggy around the grounds. Inside, rooms are luxurious, service is top class and there are two fine restaurants, two bars and a luxury spa treatment centre (massages from ₹900). Note, prices rise by about 20% around Christmas and New Year.

Hotel Clarks Varanasi HOTEL $$$ (Map p384; %2501011; www.clarkshotels.com; The Mall; s/d from ₹5000/5500; aiWs) The ex-

ecutive rooms are enormous, with their own private dining areas, but standard rooms are smart rather than luxurious. Service is excellent, though, as is the main restaurant, and the garden out the back has a delightful teardrop-shaped swimming pool shaded by bamboo and palm trees. There’s also a 24-hour cafe. Note, wi-fi costs ₹600 per day!

5 Eating Look out for locally grown langda aam (mangoes) in summer or sitafal (custard apples) in autumn. Singhara is a blackish root that tastes like water chestnut. OLD CITY AREA

oBrown Bread Bakery

MULITCUISINE $$

(Map p386; 17 Tripura Bhairavi; mains ₹75-230; h7am-10pm; i) Not only does this place

lead the way socially and environmentally – it supports a local school, runs a women’s empowerment group and uses organic produce wherever possible – but the food is also terrific. The fabulous menu includes more than 20 varieties of cheese and more than 30 types of bread, cookies and cakes as well as main courses from around the world. The ambience is spot on too, with seating on cushions around low tables and live classical music performances in the evenings. Admittedly, it’s pricier than most, but part of the profits go to the charity Learn for Life (p389). Those with bad backs might like to try their other branch Brownie (Map p384), which has regular chairs and tables and the same great menu. Madhur Milan Cafe INDIAN $ (Map p386; Dasaswamedh Ghat Rd; mains ₹2460; h8am-10pm) Popular with locals, this

no-nonsense restaurant serves up a range of good-value, mostly south Indian dishes, including dosa, idli and uttapam, and paratha. Thalis start from ₹45, and they have lassis. Lotus Lounge MULTICUISINE $$ (Map p384; Mansarowar Ghat; mains ₹90-200; h8am-10pm) A great place to chill, this laid-

back, half-open-air restaurant, with brokentile mosaic flooring and wicker chairs, has a terrace that juts out over Mansarowar Ghat. The menu’s a mixed bag, with fresh coﬀee, set breakfasts, salads, pasta and curries.

Keshari Ruchikar Byanjan INDIAN $$ (Map p386; Dasaswamedh Ghat Rd; mains ₹60-110; h9am-10.30pm) This 1st-floor veg restaurant,

specialising in both North and South Indian cuisine, is the nicest place to eat along this busy market street and is popular with local families. The ground-floor chaat stall (chaat from ₹15) is also a big hit. VSR SOUTH INDIAN $ (Map p386; 25/2 Ganga Mahal; mains from ₹25; h6.30am-9.30pm) This locals’ favourite, right

next to Apsara Restaurant, serves up excellent-value south Indian food (dosa, idli and uttapam) in an airy, fan-cooled hall. Between breakfast (6.30am–10am) and dinner (6pm–9.30pm), it’s thalis only (from ₹35). Apsara Restaurant MULTICUISINE $ (Map p386; 24/42 Ganga Mahal; mains ₹35-80)

Dolphin Restaurant INDIAN $$$ (Map p386; Rashmi Guest House, Man Mandir Ghat; mains ₹110-300) Quality food, quality

location; Dolphin – the rooftop restaurant at Rashmi Guest House – is perched high above Man Mandir Ghat and is a fine place for an evening meal. Watch food being prepared through the glass-walled kitchen by the AC restaurant, or sit out on the breezy balcony. Phulwari MULTICUISINE $$ (Map p386; Chowk Rd; mains ₹45-100; h8.30am10.30pm) Set back from noisy Chowk Rd in a

shaded courtyard beside an old temple, this place makes an unusual change from all the rooftop restaurants nearby. Its speciality is Mediterranean, but Phulwari also does Indian and Chinese plus coﬀee and lassis. ASSI GHAT AREA

oPizzeria Vaatika Cafe

MULTICUISINE $$

(Map p384; Assi Ghat; pizza ₹65-100; h7am-10pm)

Sit in the shady garden terrace overlooking Assi Ghat while you munch your way through top-notch pizza baked in a woodfired oven. None of that thick-crust nonsense here – it’s all thin and crispy, as every pizza should be. Don’t forget to leave some room for the delicious apple pie. Haifa Restaurant MIDDLE EASTERN $$ (Map p384; Hotel Haifa, Assi Ghat; mains ₹50-120; h7.30am-9.30pm) Specialises in Middle East-

ern food – humus, falafel, even a Middle Eastern thali! – but also does Indian and Chinese like everywhere else. CANTONMENT AREA Canton Restaurant INDIAN $$$ (Map p384; Hotel Surya, The Mall; mains ₹100-300; h7am-11pm) Housed in a 150-year-old heri-

tage building, Hotel Surya’s excellent main restaurant has a colonial elegance, and

393

Varuna Restaurant NORTH INDIAN $$$ (Map p384; Gateway Hotel Ganges, Raja Bazaar Rd; mains ₹200-1450; hlunch & dinner) As you’d ex-

pect from Varanasi’s best hotel, this is one of the city’s top restaurants. Elegant without being stuﬀy, Varuna’s specialities include classic North Indian and Afghan dishes, the sumptuous maharaja thali and tandoor kebabs. There’s live sitar and tabla music every evening.

Eden Restaurant INDIAN $$$ (Map p384; Hotel Pradeep, Kabir Chaura Rd; mains ₹110-250) Hotel Pradeep’s rooftop restaurant,

complete with garden, manicured lawns and wrought-iron furniture, is a lovely place for a candle-lit evening meal. Note that staircaseweary waiters will be very appreciative if you order at the ground-floor AC restaurant behind the lobby before heading up to the roof. The good-quality Indian menu is the same in both restaurants.

Drinking & Entertainment

Wine and beer shops are dotted discreetly around the city, usually away from the river. Note that it is frowned upon to drink alcohol on or near the holy Ganges. For bars, head to midrange and top-end hotels away from the ghats. There’s nightly live classical music at Brown Bread Bakery, Puja Hotel and Varuna Restaurant at Gateway Hotel Ganges, to name but a few. The International Music Centre Ashram (Map p390) has small performances (₹100) on Wednesday and Saturday evenings.

oAum Cafe

CAFE

(Map p384; www.touchoflight.us; h7am-5.30pm TueSun; W) Run by a friendly American woman

who has been coming to India for more than 20 years, this cute and colourful cafe has fabulously fresh juices, coﬀee and lassis as well as some delicious snacks and sandwiches. The back of the menu lists the ayurvedic qualities of all the ingredients used. There’s also massage therapies and body piercing available. Up the steps from Assi Ghat. Open Hand CAFE (Map p384; www.openhandonline.com; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat; W) A cafe-cum-gift shop with fresh

coﬀee and juices and a range of cakes and

D RTAR I N K IPR N GADESH & E N T EVA M EIN&T E N T E R TA I N M E N T UT DRRTA RI NAIKNIA NSG

This cosy AC restaurant has cushioned seats, good music and friendly staﬀ. The multi cuisine menu includes Indian, Chinese, continental, Japanese, Israeli and Korean food, and there’s a small rooftop area.

on warm evenings you can eat out on the large lawn. The menu includes high-quality Indian dishes as well as some Chinese and continental.

394

NO 1 LASSI IN ALL VARANASI

UT TAR PR ADESH

Your long, thirsty search for the best lassi in town is over. Look no further than Blue Lassi (Map p386; lassis ₹10-30; h9am-11.30pm), a tiny, hole-in-the-wall yoghurt shop that has been churning out the freshest, creamiest, fruit-filled lassis for more than 70 years. The grandson of the original owner still works here, sitting by his lassi-mixing cauldron in front of a small room with wooden benches for customers and walls plastered with messages from happy drinkers; most of whom seem to be Korean. All four flavours – plain, banana, apple and mango – are delicious (it’s worth coming here four times to try them all!), but we think the apple one, flecked with fresh apple shreds, just about tops the bunch.

snacks plus a few main courses. There’s free wi-fi plus a large selection of gorgeous handicrafts (jewellery, toys, clothing) made in the local community. Prinsep Bar BAR (Map p384; Gateway Hotel Ganges, Raja Bazaar Rd; hmidday-11pm) For a quiet drink with a

dash of history try this tiny bar, named after James Prinsep, who drew wonderful illustrations of Varanasi’s ghats and temples. Beers start at ₹225, cocktails ₹200. Mango Tree CAFE (Map p384; %2508465; www.hotelsuryavns.com; 20/51 The Mall) This laid-back cafe in the

garden at Hotel Surya is a relaxing place where you can smoke hookah pipes (₹100) while sipping a beer.

Shopping

Varanasi is justifiably famous for silk brocades and beautiful Benares saris, but being led by touts and rickshaw drivers to a silk shop is all part of the Varanasi shuﬄe and virtually everyone involved will try to rip you oﬀ. Don’t believe much of what the silk salesmen tell you about the relative quality of products, even in government emporiums. Instead, shop around and judge for yourself. Varanasi is also a good place to shop for sitars (starting from ₹3000) and tablas (from ₹2500). The cost depends primarily on the type of wood used. Mango is cheapest, while teak and vijaysar (a wild Indian herb, the bark of which is used in ayurvedic medicine) are of the highest quality. Ingenious locally made toys, Bhadohi carpets, brass ornaments, perfumes and textiles are other popular purchases. Baba Blacksheep SILK (Map p384; %2454342; Bhelpura; 9am-8pm)

Trustworthy, non-pushy and frequently recommended by our readers, this is a great

place to come for silks (scarves/saris from ₹250/3000) and pashminas (shawls from ₹1300). Benares Art & Culture HANDICRAFTS (Map p384; Shivala Rd; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat)

This centuries-old haveli (traditional, ornately decorated residence) stocks quality carvings, sculptures, paintings and wooden toys all made by local artists. Prices are fixed.

Khadi Gramodyog CLOTHING (Map p384; Khabir Chaura Rd; h7am-10pm MonSat) Stocks shirts, kurta pyjamas, saris and

head scarves, all made from the famous homespun khadi fabric. There’s another branch, called Shri Gandhi Ashram Khadi (Map p384), on the 1st floor of the row of shops opposite the post oﬃce. Both can arrange next-day tailoring services.

Mehrotra Silk Factory SILK (Map p384; %2200189; www.mehrotrasilk.com; h10am-8pm) Tucked away down a tiny alley-

way near the main train station, this pocketsized, fixed-priced shop is a fun place to buy silk scarves (from ₹250), saris (from ₹1600) and bedspread sets (from ₹5000).

8 Information

Internet cafes are everywhere; ₹20 per hour is the going rate. Guesthouses tend to charge double. Wi-fi is becoming more and more popular. Places that didn’t have it during our research may well do by the time you read this. Some charge. Many don’t. There are several ATMs scattered around town. We’ve marked some on our maps. Heritage Hospital (Map p 384; %2368888; www.heritagehospitals.com; Lanka) Englishspeaking staff and doctors; 24-hour pharmacy in reception. Casualty to the right. Main post office (Map p384; %2331398; Kabir Chaura Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, parcels 10am4pm) Known as GPO by some rickshaw riders;

8 Getting There & Away

Air Indian Airlines (Map p 384; h10am-5pm MonSat) airport (% 2622494); Cantonment oﬃce (%2502529) has direct flights to Delhi (around ₹3000, daily), Mumbai (₹5000, daily), Kathmandu (₹7800, Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday) and Khajuraho (₹3000, Monday, Wednesday and Friday). Other airlines are based at the airport. Bus The main bus stand is opposite Varanasi Junction train station. Popular destinations are listed below. Allahabad and Lucknow are also served by one or two AC buses that are more comfortable but cost at least twice the price.

Allahabad ₹82, three hours, every 30 minutes Faizabad ₹160, seven hours, daily at 6am, 7am, 8am, 1.30pm and 2pm Gorakhpur ₹144, seven hours, every 30 minutes Lucknow ₹197, seven to eight hours, about every hour Train Luggage theft has been reported on trains to and from Varanasi so you should take extra care. A few years ago there were reports of drugged food and drink, so it’s probably still best to politely decline any offers from strangers. Varanasi Junction train station (Map p 384), also known as Varanasi Cantonment (Cantt) train station, is the main station. Foreign tourist quota tickets (p1187) must be purchased at the helpful Foreign Tourist Centre (h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun), a ticket office just past the UP Tourism office, on your right as you exit the station. There are several daily trains to Allahabad, Gorakhpur and Lucknow. A few daily trains leave for New Delhi and Kolkata, but only two daily trains goes to Agra. The direct train to Khajuraho only runs on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. On other days, go via Satna from where you can catch buses to Khajuraho. To/From Nepal From Varanasi’s bus stand there are regular services to Sunauli (₹206, 10 hours, 7am-8.30pm). By train, go to Gorakhpur then transfer to a Sunauli bus. Indian Airlines has four weekly flights to Kathmandu (₹7800). Nepali visas are available on arrival.

HANDY TRAINS FROM VARANASI DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

DEPARTURES

Agra

13237/13239 PNBE MTJ Exp

252/678/930

4.45pm

Allahabad

11094 Mahangari Exp

120/277/373

11.30am

Gorakhpur

15003 Chaurichaura Exp

132/340/460

6½

12.35am

Jabalpur

11062/11066 MFP/DBG-LTT Exp 212/562/772

10½

11.20pm

Khajuraho

21108 BSB-Kurj Link E

200/531/725

5.10pm*

Kolkata (Howrah)

12334 Vibhuti Exp

306/806**

6.10pm

Lucknow

14235 BSB-BE Exp

161/422/481*** 7¼

11.45pm

New Delhi

12559 Shiv Ganga Exp

306/806/1095

7.15pm

12½

All fares are sleeper/3AC/2AC; *Mon, Wed, Sat only; **sleeper/3AC; ***sleeper/3AC/1st class

395

8 TAR PR ADESH VA UT 8 RANASI

best PO for sending parcels abroad. Small post offices are dotted around the city. The Cantonment area (Map p384) has a large one. State Bank of India (Map p 384; %2343742; The Mall; h10am-2pm & 2.30-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Changes travellers cheques and cash. Tourist Police (Map p 384; %2506670; UP Tourism office, Varanasi Junction train station; h6am-7pm) Tourist police wear sky-blue uniforms. UP Tourism (Map p 384; Varanasi Junction train station; %2506670; h9am-5pm) The patient Mr Umashankar at the office inside the train station has been dishing out reasonably impartial information to arriving travellers for years; he’s a mine of knowledge, so take advantage of it if you arrive here by train. Can give details of Varanasi’s paying-guesthouse scheme and guided tours.

396

8 Getting Around

To/From the Airport An autorickshaw to Babatpur airport, 22km northwest of the city, costs ₹200. A taxi is about ₹400.

UT TAR PR ADESH

Bicycle You can hire bikes (per day ₹20) from a small cycle repair shop (Map p 384) near Assi Ghat. Cycle-Rickshaw Rough prices from Dasaswamedh Ghat Rd include: Assi Ghat ₹20, Benares Hindu University ₹40 and Varanasi Junction train station ₹30. Be prepared for hard bargaining. Taxi & Autorickshaw Prepaid booths for autorickshaws and taxis are directly outside Varanasi Junction train station and give you a good benchmark for prices around town. First pay a ₹5 administration charge at the booth then take a ticket which you give to your driver, along with the fare, once you’ve reached your destination. Fares include: Airport auto/taxi ₹200/400 Assi Ghat auto/taxi ₹70/200 Dasaswamedh Ghat auto/taxi ₹60/150 Godaulia (by St Thomas’ Church) auto ₹50 Ramnagar Fort auto ₹140 Sarnath auto/taxi ₹80/250 Half-day tour (four hours) auto ₹300 Full-day tour (eight hours) auto ₹600

Sarnath % 0542

Buddha came to Sarnath to preach his message of the middle way to nirvana after he achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya and gave his famous first sermon here. In the 3rd century BC emperor Ashoka had magnificent stupas and monasteries erected here as well as an engraved pillar. When Chinese traveller Xuan Zang dropped by in AD 640, Sarnath boasted a 100m-high stupa and 1500 monks living in large monasteries. However, soon after, Buddhism went into decline and, when Muslim invaders sacked the city in the late 12th century, Sarnath disappeared altogether. It was ‘rediscovered’ by British archaeologists in 1835. Today it’s one of the four important sites on the Buddhist circuit (along with Bodhgaya, Kushinagar and Lumbini in Nepal) and attracts followers from around the world. An easy day trip from Varanasi, Sarnath is also a peaceful place to stay.

1 Sights

Dhamekh Stupa & Monastery HISTORIC SITE Ruins (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk)

Set in a peaceful park of monastery ruins is the impressive 34m Dhamekh Stupa, which marks the spot where the Buddha preached his first sermon. The floral and geometric carvings are 5th century AD, but some of the brickwork dates back as far as 200 BC. Nearby is a 3rd-century BC Ashoka Pillar with an edict engraved on it. It once stood 15m tall and had the famous four-lion capital (now in the museum) perched on top of it, but all that remains are five fragments of its base. Chaukhandi Stupa SACRED SITE (hdawn-dusk) This large ruined stupa dates

back to the 5th century AD, and marks the spot where Buddha met his first disciples. The incongruous tower on top of the stupa is Mughal and was constructed here in the 16th century to commemorate the visit of Emperor Humayun.

Mulgandha Kuti Vihar BUDDHIST TEMPLE (%2585595; h4-11.30am & 1.30-8pm; photo ₹20, video ₹50) This modern temple was completed

in 1931 by the Mahabodhi Society. Buddha’s first sermon is chanted daily, starting between 6pm and 7pm depending on the season. A bodhi tree growing outside was transplanted in 1931 from the tree in Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, which in turn is said to be the oﬀspring of the original tree in Bodhgaya under which Buddha attained enlightenment.

Archaeological Museum MUSEUM (admission ₹5; h9am-6pm) This fully mod-

ernised, 100-year-old sandstone museum houses wonderfully displayed ancient treasures such as the very well preserved 3rdcentury BC lion capital from the Ashoka pillar, which has been adopted as India’s national emblem, and a huge 2000-year-old stone umbrella, ornately carved with Buddhist symbols.

4 Sleeping oAgrawal Paying

GUESTHOUSE $$ Guest House (%2595316; r ₹500-600, with AC ₹900) Peace-

ful place with a refined owner and spotless rooms overlooking a beautiful garden. Jain Paying Guest House GUESTHOUSE (%2595621; d ₹300) Simple but friendly.

200 m 0.1 miles

# Ú

Burmese Temple & Monastery

Monastery Ruins Main Shrine

# # á ä

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 # 0 0Ú 0 0 0 5 0 00 00 0 0

2 # # 12 ú

# â

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 # Ú 00 0 0 70 0 0 9 0 0 ÿ To 0 00 0Train#Station

ô #

# Thai Temple Ú

& Monastary

g Mar oka Ash

# 13 ú

(500m)

# Ú

Chinese Temple & Monastery

# ð

‚

# ÿ

# 11 ÿ 8

ÿ Sleeping 8 Agrawal Paying Guest House .............B3 9 Jain Paying Guest House ....................B2 10 Japanese Temple & Monastery..........B3 11 Tibetan Temple & Monastery.............B3

# Ú

‚

To Varanasi (10km)

æ Sights 1 Archaeological Museum .....................A2 2 Archaeological Museum Ticket Office .................................................A2 3 Ashoka Pillar ........................................ A1 4 Chaukhandi Stupa...............................A3 5 Dhamekh Stupa...................................A2 6 Entrance to Dhamekh Stupa ..............A2 7 Mulgandha Kuti Vihar..........................B2

ú Eating 12 Green Hut.............................................A2 13 Vaishali Restaurant .............................B2

# ÿ

Sarnath

You can stay in very basic rooms, with shared bathrooms, at these monasteries: Tibetan Temple & Monastery (dm ₹100) Japanese Temple & Monastery (dm by donation) Has one five-bed dorm.

5 Eating

Vaishali Restaurant INDIAN (mains ₹20-100; h7am-9pm) Large 1st-floor

Green Hut MULTICUISINE (meals ₹40-90; h8.30am-8.30pm) A breezy

restaurant serving mostly Indian dishes, but some Chinese too.

open-sided cafe-restaurant offering dosa, snacks and chicken dishes.

8 Information

Power cuts mean internet cafes (per hr ₹20; h8am-8pm) are unreliable, but we’ve marked a couple of options on the map.

8 Getting There & Away

Local buses to Sarnath (₹10, 40 minutes) pass in front of Varanasi Junction train station, but you may wait a long time for one. An autorickshaw costs about ₹100 from Varanasi’s Old City. Some cycle-rickshaw-wallahs are willing to do the trip (₹80), but tip generously. On the

way back you can snag a lift in a shared auto or vikram (large autorickshaw; ₹10-20) but you may have to change on the outskirts of the city. Some trains running between Varanasi and Gorakphur also stop here. Trains for Sarnath leave Varanasi Junction at 6.50am, 11.10am, 12.15pm, 4pm, 5pm and 6.35pm. Returning to Varanasi, trains leave Sarnath at 8.43am, 9.47am, 11.31am, 11.58am, 2.48pm, 6.53pm and 9.13pm. The journey takes around 20 minutes and a ‘general’ ticket for an unreserved secondclass seat will cost you just a few rupees.

Gorakhpur % 0551 / POP 624,570

There’s little to see in Gorakhpur itself, but this well-connected transport hub is a short hop from the pilgrimage centre of Kushinagar – the place where Buddha died – making it a possible stopover on the road between Varanasi and Nepal.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Adarsh Palace HOTEL $ (%2201912; hotel.adarshpalace@rediﬀmail.com; Railway Station Rd; dm ₹150, s ₹300-450, d ₹600, with AC ₹800-900; a) There are loads of bud-

get hotels opposite the train station, but this smarter-than-average one, 200m to the left as you leave the station, has something for everyone. The 10-bed dorm has lockers above each bed, cheap singles come with TV and bathroom and there are some decentquality AC rooms too. As with most hotels here, checkout is 24 hours.

397

E AT I N GPR ADESH G UT TAR E AT O RI ANKGH P U R

66 66 66 e # 00

Sarnath

398

New Varden Restaurant INDIAN (mains ₹20-70, thalis ₹35-60; h8am-10pm)

Right opposite the train station, this is popular with travellers and will box up your order for onward journeys.

8 Information

UT TAR PR ADESH

UP Tourism (%2335450; h10am-5pm MonSat) is inside the train station. There’s an internet cafe (per hour ₹20; h10am-11pm) opposite the train station, below Hotel Varden. For the main bus stand, come out of the train station and keep walking straight for about 300m. For Varanasi buses you need the Katchari bus stand, about 3km further south.

8 Getting There & Away

Frequent bus services run from the main bus stand to Faizabad (₹84, five hours), Kushinagar (₹36, two hours) and Sunauli (₹67, three hours). Buses to Varanasi (₹120, seven hours) leave from the Katchari bus stand. There are six daily trains to Varanasi (sleeper/3AC, ₹132/340, 5½ hours), including one slower, cheaper night train (No 55149, seven hours, 11.15pm). A number of daily trains also leave for Lucknow (sleeper/3AC ₹146/380, six hours) and Delhi (₹312/823, 13 hours) and one for Agra Fort (No 19038/19040, ₹249/672, 1.15pm, 15½ hours). The train ticket reservation oﬃce is 500m from the train station; to the right of the station as you exit.

Kushinagar % 05564 / POP 17,982

One of the four main pilgrimage sites marking Buddha’s life – the others being Lumbini (Nepal), Bodhgaya and Sarnath – Kushinagar is where Buddha died. There are several peaceful, modern temples where you can stay, chat with monks or simply contemplate your place in the world, and there are three main historical sights, including the simple but wonderfully serene stupa where Buddha is said to have been cremated.

1 Sights & Activities Ramabhar Stupa

SACRED SITE

Architecturally, this half-ruined, 15m-high stupa is little more than a large, dome-shaped clump of red bricks, but there is an unmistakable aura about this place which is hard to ignore. This is where Buddha’s body is said to have been cremated and monks and pilgrims can often be seen meditating by the palmlined path that leads around the stupa.

Mahaparinirvana Temple

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

Mathakuar Temple

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

The highlight of this modest temple, rebuilt in 1927 and set among extensive lawns and ancient ruins with a circumambulatory path, is its serene 5th-century reclining Buddha, unearthed in 1876. Six metres long, it depicts Buddha on his ancient death-bed and is one of the world’s most moving Buddhist icons. Behind the temple is an ancient 19m-tall stupa, and in the surrounding park is a large bell erected by the Dalai Lama. This small shrine, set among monastery ruins, marks the spot where Buddha is said to have made his final sermon and now houses a 3m-tall blue-stone Buddha statue, thought to date from the 10th century AD. Buddha Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner ₹3/10, photography ₹20; h10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Exhibits Buddhist

relics, sculptures and terracottas unearthed from the Kushinagar region, as well as some Tibetan thangkas (rectangular cloth paintings) and Mughal miniature paintings.

Wat Thai complex TEMPLE (h9-11.30am & 1.30-4pm) Features an elabo-

rate temple, beautifully maintained gardens with bonsai-style trees, a monastery and a temple containing a gilded Buddha. There’s also a Sunday school and health clinic, each of which welcomes visitors. Yama Cafe WALKING (walk incl guide, food, water & return transport ₹750) The cafe runs a so-called Holy Hike,

a 13km-walk that takes in some of the area’s historical sights as well as local villages and a school in the surrounding farmland.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Lotus Nikko Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%274403; s/d ₹3800/4500; a) The best value

of Kushinagar’s top-end hotels, Lotus Nikko has huge, spotless rooms with dining table, sofa and chairs. There’s a restaurant (mains ₹90-145; h7.30am-9.30pm) and a Japanese bath house.

oYama Cafe

MULTICUISINE $

(mains ₹25-55; h7am-8pm) Run by the wel-

coming Mr and Mrs Roy, this Kushinagar institution has a traveller-friendly menu which includes toast, omelettes, fried rice and thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup) and is

the best place to come for information about the area. Some of the temples which have basic accommodation for pilgrims also welcome tourists, including the following:

bathroom and hot water.

Japan-Sri Lanka Buddhist PILGRIMS’ REST HOUSE $ Centre (%273044; tr ₹400) Set up for large groups,

so call ahead, but has decent quality, clean rooms.

Tibetan Temple PILGRIMS’ REST HOUSE (r without bathroom by donation) Rooms are

run down, but the place is welcoming.

8 Information

You’ll find a couple of private money changers here, but no ATMs. Internet connections were too temperamental to bother with when we were here.

8 Getting There & Away

Frequent buses to Gorakhpur (₹36, two hours, until 7pm) will pick you up at the yellow archway.

399

% 05522

Sunauli is a dusty town that oﬀers little more than a bus stop, a couple of hotels, a few shops and a border post. The border is open 24 hours and the crossing is straightforward (p399) so most travellers carry on into Nepal without stopping here. There are more facilities in the Nepali part of Sunauli; Bhairawa, a further 4km north, is a more substantial town. Buses drop you just a few hundred metres from the Indian immigration oﬃce, so you can ignore the cycle-rickshaws. If you’re coming from Nepal but miss the last bus to Gorakhpur, then Hotel IndoNepal (%238142; dm/d ₹100/350), by the bus stand, has basic rooms set around a cool courtyard. Its simple restaurant (mains ₹25-100; thali ₹60-150; h6.30am-10pm) makes a nice lunch stop even if you don’t stay. If you’re leaving India, the very helpful Nepal Tourism Board information centre (%0977 1520197; h10am-5pm Sun-Fri) is on

your right, in no-man’s land.

CROSSING INTO NEPAL Border Hours The border is open 24 hours but closes to vehicles at 10pm, and if you arrive in the middle of the night you may have to wake someone to get stamped out of India.

Foreign Exchange There’s nowhere to change money in Sunauli, but there are foreign-exchange places just across the border on the Nepal side. Small denominations of Indian currency are accepted for bus fares on the Nepal side.

Onward Transport Buses and shared jeeps leave all day until around 8pm from the Nepal side of the border for Kathmandu (NRs500, six hours) and Pokhara (NRs500, eight hours). A taxi to Kathmandu costs around NRs15,000. Shared autorickshaws or jeeps (NRs10) can take you from the border to Bhairawa, 4km away, where you can also catch buses to Kathmandu and Pokhara for the same prices, as well as to Buddha’s birthplace, Lumbini (NRs35, one hour).

Visas Multiple-entry visas (15-/30-/60-day US$25/40/80 – cash, not rupees) are available at the immigration post just across the border. You will need two recent passport photos. At the time of research, travellers leaving India were being prevented from re-entering within two months. Some travellers reported being able to get round this rule by showing proof of an imminent international flight leaving from an Indian city. Others reported being able to pay (US$10) the Indian Embassy in Kathmandu for special dispensation to re-enter earlier.

8 TAR PR ADESH S UT 8 U N AU L I & T H E N E PA L B O R D E R

Linh Son Temple PILGRIMS’ REST HOUSE $ (tr ₹250) Simple, clean triples with private

Sunauli & the Nepal Border

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 400

UT TAR PR ADESH

The Nepali side of Sunauli has a few cheap hotels, outdoor restaurants and a more upbeat atmosphere, but most travellers prefer to stay in Bhairawa, or get straight on a bus to Kathmandu or Pokhara. Regular buses run from Sunauli to Gorakhpur (₹67, three hours, until 7pm) from where you can catch trains to Varanasi. A few morning (4.30am to 10.30am) and afternoon (4.30pm to 7pm) buses run direct to Varanasi (₹208, 10 hours), but it’s a long, bumpy ride.

Be wary of buying ‘through’ tickets from Kathmandu or Pokhara to Varanasi. Some travellers report being intimidated into buying another ticket once over the border. Travelling in either direction, it’s better to take a local bus to the border, walk across and take another onward bus (pay the conductor on board). Travellers have also complained about being pressured into paying extra luggage charges for buses out of Sunauli. You shouldn’t have to.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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Uttarakhand Dehra Dun . . . . . . . . . 404 Mussoorie . . . . . . . . . 408 Haridwar . . . . . . . . . . .412 Rishikesh . . . . . . . . . . . 417 Valley of Flowers & Hem Kund Trek . . . . 428 Kuari Pass Trek . . . . 430 Corbett Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . 430 Nainital . . . . . . . . . . . 432 Ranikhet . . . . . . . . . . 436 Almora . . . . . . . . . . . . .437 Kausani . . . . . . . . . . . 439 Bageshwar . . . . . . . . 440 Pithoragarh . . . . . . . . 440

Best Places to Eat » Kasmanda Palace Restaurant (p411)

Why Go? Soaring Himalayan peaks and steamy lowland jungles. Revered temples and renowned ashrams. Peaceful hill stations and busy cities. Uttarakhand is truly a thalii of a state, with some of India’s best trekking, yoga schools, holiday towns and wildlife watching all tucked into this little corner of the country. Hindus think of Uttarakhand as Dev Bhoomii – the Land of Gods – and the dramatic terrain is covered with holy mountains, lakes and rivers. Twisting roads and highaltitude hiking trails lead to spectacular pilgrimage sites where tales from the Hindu epics are set. And something of these ancient stories seems to have been absorbed by the land, which exudes a subtle sense of actually being sacred – even to ultra-orthodox agnostics. Many travellers flock here for this vibe, finding it a powerful place to pursue a spiritual practice. Others come here for the tigers!

When to Go Rishikesh °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

» Little Buddha Cafe (p422) » Imperial Square (p410) » Prakash Lok (p415)

Best Places to Stay » Palace Belvedere (p433)

» Kasmanda Palace Hotel (p409) » Infinity Resorts (p432)

24/600

20/68

16/400 0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Apr–mid-Jun The best season for tiger spotting at Corbett Tiger Reserve.

Jul–mid-Sep Monsoons may make travel difficult; Valley of Flowers bloom is best July-August.

Mid-Sep–Oct The perfect time to trek the Himalayas.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY » Haridwar, Dehra Dun and Haldwani are easily reached by train or bus. » Jolly Grant Airport is convenient to Rishikesh and Dehra Dun.

» Enter or exit Nepal at Banbassa.

Fast Facts » Population: 10.1 million » Area: 51,125sq km

» Capital: Dehra Dun

» Main languages: Hindi, Garhwali, Kumaoni

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹800, $$ ₹800 to 1800, $$$ above ₹1800

Top Tip If travelling through the hills or mountains, get to buses early to claim a window seat. The landscape, much of which you’ll never stop to explore, is gorgeous.

Resources » US Military maps (www .lib.utexas.edu/maps/ams /india), useful for trekking. » Background on the Chipko movement (http:// nandadevi.prayaga.org /chipko.html), the original ‘tree-huggers’.

» Read up on Transcendental Meditation (www .tm.org), founded by Maharishi Mahesh Yogi.

Food Not famous for its food, cuisine in Uttarakhand is typically North Indian. The most variety is found in Mussoorie, Rishikesh, Nainital and Dehra Dun. A warning to meat-eaters: towns with top-tier religious significance are all-vegetarian, all the time.

DON’T MISS Every evening around sunset, hundreds of Hindu worshippers converge at Haridwar’s Har-ki-Pairi Ghat to perform puja (prayer oﬀering) on the Ganges canal. Leaf baskets filled with a fragrant rainbow of flower petals, each softly lit by a candle nestled in the centre, are launched onto the water; this river of flickering flames carries the prayers of the faithful downstream. Beautiful and intense, this might be the most potent scene of archetypal ‘India’ in all of Uttarakhand. Just north of Haridwar, follow the footsteps of The Beatles to Rishikesh, the world-renowned spiritualseekers’ city, where you’ll surely find a yoga or meditation course to suit your needs – whether you’re a serious practitioner or an undisciplined dabbler. Spanning the northern half of the state are the mighty Himalayas. A vast land of soaring, snowy summits and rolling alpine meadows – plus a chance to see snow leopards and meet tribal herders – Uttarakhand is a trekking paradise. Choose between busy pilgrims’ trails on the Char Dham route or remote wilderness where you’ll hardly see another soul.

Top State Festivals » Magh Mela (Jan & Feb, Haridwar, p412) Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims come to bathe in the soul-cleansing Ganges during this huge annual religious fair. The Ardh Kumbh Mela is held every six years; and millions of pilgrims attend the mega Kumbh Mela every 12 years.

» International Yoga Festival (Mar, Rishikesh, p421) Yoga and meditation masters from around the world converge and give demonstrations and lectures.

» Shivaratri (usually Mar, Tapkeshwar Temple, p406) A festival celebrated in style with carnival rides and stalls at a picturesque riverside cave temple on the outskirts of Dehra Dun.

» Nanda Devi Fair (Sep, Almora, p437) During this five-day fair, thousands of devotees parade the image of the goddess around and watch dancing and other cultural shows.

ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὈὈ ὈὈ

External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of the Government of India. Some boundaries may not be those recognised by neighbouring countries. 403 Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where travellers may need to cross a boundary (and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute.

40 km 20 miles

Lamkhaga Pass (5284m)

Har-kiOsla Dun

Jamdar Glacier

Malla

Ramganga

Seohara

UTTAR PRADESH

Dhanaura

Corbett Kosi River Tiger Reserve

Almora

Dhikuli Bijrani Nainital Jhirna Ramnagar Gate Kashipur Kaladhungi

Bhojpur

Sar

Mukteshwar

Bhowali

Champawat

Kathgodam Haldwani

To Moradabad (15km);

Tanakpur

Nanak Sagar Banbassa

NEPAL

Nihtaur

Pithoragarh

Jageshwar

er Gola Riv

Chandpur

Gangolihat

Ranikhet

Riv

Kalagarh

Bijnar

Kanda Sallya

Dhikala Reservoir

Dharchula Didihat

Rive

Kausani

Kapkot Bageshwar

Riv

Baijnath

Dwarahat

Kotdwar

mti

Chaukhutiya

Lansdowne

GARHWAL

Sahanpur

Song

Gwaldam

Rajaji National Park

Khankhal

s ge

K U M A O N Sundardhunga Glacier Pind er ar Riv Munsyari

Tharali

Rishikesh

Pindari Glacier

Nanda Kot (6860m)

Mahendranagar

Sitargani

Rampur

Uttarakhand Highlights 1 Visit the temple at

Gangotri and trek beyond it to Gaumukh, the source of the holy Ganges River (p425)

2 Float a candle down

the Ganges at the gorgeous nightly ceremony at Haridwar’s Har-ki-Pairi Ghat (p412)

Adi Badri

Pauri

Trisul (7120m)

Ghat

Chilla

Karnaprayag

Srinagar

Ala er Riv Rudraprayag

Jolly Grant Airport Deoprayag

Haridwar

Kedarnath Madmaheshwar Hem Malari Gaurikund Badrinath Kund Sonprayag Milam Thati Joshimath Glacier Rudranath Nanda Devi Kathur Ukhimath Burphu Auli Lata Sanctuary Glacier Milam Chotta Kailash Nanda Devi Ghamsali Nanda Devi (6191m) Kuari Pass (7816m) Chamoli East (7430m) (3640m) Roop Kund a Nandaprayag knand

Dar

Tehri

Dehra Dun

CHINA TIBET

Nilkantha Mana Valley of Flowers National Park (6558m)

Mussoorie

Mana (7272m)

3 Scout for rare Bengal

tigers and ride an elephant in Corbett Tiger Reserve (p430)

4 Get your asanas and chakras sorted at Rishikesh, the yoga and ashram capital of the universe (p417)

5 Cool oﬀ in a scenic Rajera hill station in Mussoorie (p408) or Nainital (p432)

6 Trek to the sublime Valley of Flowers and nearby Hem Kund for an unforgettable combo of the scenic and sacred (p428)

7 Immerse yourself in a mindblowing Himalayan landscape while trekking the Kuari Pass (p430) through Nanda Devi National Park (Sanctuary)

UT TAR AKHAND

thi ira ag r Bh Rive

Dharasu

Kamet (7756m)

Gaumukh

Kedar Tal Kedarnath (6970m)

Uttarkashi

Mana Pass

swati Sara er Riv

Barkot

Lakhmandal

Gangotri

i otr ng er Ga laci G

Hanuman Chatti

Kempty Falls

Harsil

Kalinda Parvat (4221m) Dodi Jaonli Tal (6630m)

Taluka Yamunotri Janki Chatti

Sa r

Sankri (Saur)

Ramganga River

0 0

404

History

UT TAR AKHAND

Uttarakhand consists of the culturally distinct Garhwal (in the west) and Kumaon (east) districts. Over the centuries various dynasties have dominated the region, including the Guptas, Kuturyi and Chand rajas (kings). In the 18th century the Nepalese Gurkhas attacked first the kingdom of Kumaon, then Garhwal, prompting the British to step in and take most of the region as part of the Treaty of Sigauli in 1817. After Independence, the region was merged with Uttar Pradesh, but a vocal separatist movement follwed, and the presentday state of Uttaranchal was formed in 2000. In 2007 it was oﬃcially renamed Uttarakhand, a traditional name meaning ‘northern country’. Climate

Look at the altitude to get an idea of likely temperatures in this state of elevation extremes. Trekking the Himalayas is possible from May to October, but can be extremely dangerous between July and mid-September, during the monsoon. Heavy rains at that time can also make roads impassable for days. Hill stations can be visited all year, but winters there are freezing cold. Low-lying Rishikesh and Haridwar are most comfortable from October to March.

8 Information

Most towns in the region have an Uttarakhand Tourism oﬃce, however the main responsibility for the region’s tourism rests with the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN; www.gmvnl.com), which covers the Garhwal district; and Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN; www.kmvn.org), which covers the Kumaon district.

8 Getting Around

Tough old government buses are the main means of travelling around Uttarakhand. In addition, crowded share jeeps (often called ‘sumos’) criss-cross the state, linking remote towns and villages to important road junctions. Pay 10 times the share-taxi rate and you can hire the whole vehicle and travel in comfort. Roads that snake through the hills can be nerve-racking and stomach-churning.

Dehra Dun % 0135 / POP 527,859 / ELEV 700M

Perhaps best known for the institutions the British left behind – the huge Forest Research Institute Museum, the Indian Military Academy, the Wildlife Institute of India and the Survey of India – the capital

of Uttarakhand is a hectic, congested city sprawling in the Doon Valley between the Himalayan foothills and the Siwalik Range. Be prepared to encounter assertive beggars in the city center. A once green and pleasant town of rice and tea gardens, Dehra Dun has lost much of its charm, but you don’t have to go far out of the city centre to find relief from the traﬃc. Rishikesh and Mussoorie are both just over an hour away, so most travellers merely pass through, but Dehra Dun is worth a stop for its lively Paltan Bazaar and vibrant Tibetan community south of the city in Clement Town. It’s also a transit point for Himachal Pradesh.

1 Sights & Activities Great Stupa & Buddha Statue

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

The region around Dehra Dun is home to a thriving Tibetan Buddhist community, mainly focused on the Mindrolling Monastery (%2640556; www.mindrolling.org), about 10km south of the centre in Clement Town. Everything about the monastery is on a grand scale: it boasts a large college, manicured gardens and the five-storey Great Stupa (admission free; h5am-9pm). At over 60m, it’s believed to be the world’s tallest stupa and contains a series of shrine rooms displaying relics, murals and Tibetan art. Presiding over the monastery is the impressive 35m-high gold Buddha Statue, dedicated to the Dalai Lama. The streets around the monastery have several Tibetan-run guesthouses and cafes. Take vikram (large tempo) 5 from the city centre (₹10). An autorickshaw costs about ₹150. Forest Research Institute NOTABLE BUILDING Museum (%2759382; www.icfre.org; admission ₹10, guide ₹50; h9.30am-1pm & 1.30-5.30pm) The prime

attraction of this museum is the building itself. Set in a 5 sq km park, the institute – where most of India’s forest oﬃcers are trained – is larger than Buckingham Palace and is one of the Raj’s grandest buildings. Built between 1924 and 1929, and designed by CG Blomfield, this red-brick colossus has Mughal towers, perfectly formed arches and Roman columns in a series of quadrangles edged by elegant cloisters. Six huge halls have displays on every aspect of forestry in India that look like leftovers from a middle school science fair. Highlights include beau-

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tiful animal, bird and plant paintings by Afshan Zaidi, exhibits on the medicinal uses of trees, and a cross-section of a 700-yearold deodar tree. A return autorickshaw from the city centre, including waiting time, costs around ₹250. Or take vikram 8 (from Gandhi Rd) or vikram 6 (from Connaught Place) and get out at the institute’s entry gate. Ram Rai Darbar MAUSOLEUM (Paltan Bazaar; admission free; hdawn-dusk) This

unique mausoleum is made of white marble, and the four smaller tombs in the garden courtyard are those of Ram Rai’s four wives. Ram Rai, the errant son of the seventh Sikh guru, Har Rai, was excommunicated by his father. He formed his own Udasi sect, which still runs schools and hospitals. When Ram Rai died in 1687, Mughal emperor Aurangzeb ordered the building of the mausoleum. A free communal lunch of dhal, rice and chapatis is oﬀered to anyone who wants it, although a donation is appreciated.

Survey of India Museum MUSEUM (Survey Chowk; admission free; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Instruments used to accomplish the

monumental task of mapping India in the 19th century are on display here, including some designed for the mission by its leader, George Everest. Among them are beautiful transits and scopes of gleaming brass, and a bar made partly of iron, partly of brass, which allowed surveyors to compensate for inaccuracies in their measurements, caused by the expansion and contraction of their instruments due to heat and cold. Small placards tell snippets of the story of one of the most impressive geographical feats ever achieved. The museum, however, is not oﬃcially opened to the public. To get permission to see it, go to the Surveyor General’s oﬃce at the Survey of India compound in Harthibarkala. There, you’ll have to write a brief letter explaining why you want to view the collection. Permits are given only to those

SIG H TAKHAND S & AC T I VD IH ERSTAS D&U AC UT TAR SIIETGH N TIVITIES

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ÿ #6 HARTHIBARKALA

mitten t ) er

405

To Mussoorie (35km)

æ2 #

406

Dehra Dun æ Sights 1 Ram Rai Darbar ...................................A4 2 Survey of India Compound, Harthibarkala .................................... C1 3 Survey of India Museum .....................C3 ÿ Sleeping 4 Hotel President....................................C3 5 Hotel Saurab ........................................B4 6 Samar Niwas Guest House................. D1

UT TAR AKHAND

ú Eating 7 Kumar Vegetarian & South Indian Restaurant .............................B3 8 Lakshmi Restaurant ............................B3 9 Motimahal ............................................B3 ü Drinking 10 Barista ..................................................B3 11 Maa Cozy Coffee Lounge.................... D1 Polo Bar........................................ (see 4) þ Shopping English Book Depot ....................(see 10) 12 Natraj Booksellers ...............................B3 Survey of India Map Counter.......(see 2) Information 13 iWay ......................................................A4 Transport 14 Mussoorie Bus Stand..........................A4 15 Parade Ground Bus Stand..................B3 Taxi Stand ...................................(see 14)

with an academic or professional interest in the subject – like a geography student or a historian – but proof of your vocation or college major isn’t demanded. Tapkeshwar Temple HINDU TEMPLE (hdawn-dusk) In a scenic setting on the banks

of the Tons Nadi River, you’ll find an unusual and popular Shiva shrine inside a small, dripping cave, which is the site of the annual Shivaratri festival. Turn left at the bottom of the steps for the main shrine. Cross the bridge over the river to visit another one, where you have to squeeze through a narrow cave to see an image of Mata Vaishno Devi. The temple is about 5km north of the centre. Take a rickshaw for ₹300 roundtrip.

4 Sleeping There are plenty of cheapies along the Haridwar road outside the train station, some charging as little as ₹250 a double, but

the better places can be found along Gandhi Rd and Rajpur Rd. There are also some cheap guest houses in the Tibetan colony at Clement Town.

oSamar Niwas Guest

GUESTHOUSE $$ House (%2740299; www.samarniwas.com; M-16 Chanderlok Colony; d ₹800-1500; ai) This charming

four-room guesthouse, in a peaceful residential area just oﬀ Rajpur Rd, is as cosy and welcoming as it gets. The owners are descendants of the Tehri royal family, but the rulers of the house seem to be the friendly pugs that roam the comfortable lounge-cum-lobby. Rooms are well-appointed, but beds are a bit hard.

Devaloka House HOTEL $ (%9759862769; Clement Town; s/d/tr ₹250/ 350/450) Part of the Mindrolling Monastery

complex, the spotless white rooms here are above the semicircular arcade looking across to the monumental Great Stupa and gardens. Rooms have TV, hot water, a small balcony and tiled floors. Check in at Norjin Restaurant.

Hotel President HOTEL $$$ (%2657082; www.hotelpresidentdehradun.com; 6 Astley Hall, Rajpur Rd; s ₹2250-2500, d ₹25002800; a) This Dehra Dun institution is one

of the classiest hotels in town, despite being sandwiched within the complex of shops, restaurants and fast-food spots called Astley Hall. Rooms are thoroughly modern and even the least expensive have fridges, safes and complimentary slippers. There’s a good restaurant, a coﬀee shop and the Polo Bar.

Hotel Saurab HOTEL $ (%2728042; hotelsaurab@hotmail.com; 1 Raja Rd; s/d from ₹550/700, with AC from ₹1200/1600; a) With midrange quality at a near-budget

price, this neatly furnished, comfortable hotel just oﬀ Gandhi Rd is a great deal. All rooms have hot water and TVs, and there’s a multicuisine restaurant. Hotel GP Grand HOTEL (%2625555; 68 Gandhi Rd; s/d from ₹750/900; a) If you want to be near the train sta-

tion, you can’t get much closer or cleaner than the GP Grand.

5 Eating Dehra Dun has an eclectic range of restaurants, but by far the best hunting ground is along Rajpur Rd, northeast of the clock tower.

The Astley Hall precinct is popular for fast food and has a couple of upmarket bars. Kumar Vegetarian & South Indian INDIAN $$ Restaurant (15B Rajpur Rd; mains ₹50-150; hlunch & dinner; a) This popular, sparkling clean restaurant

Motimahal INDIAN $$ (7 Rajpur Rd; mains ₹110-300; hlunch & dinner; a)

Locals consistently rate Motimahal as one of the best midrange diners along Rajpur Rd. An interesting range of vegetarian and nonvegetarian includes Goan fish curry and Afghani murg (chicken), along with traditional South Indian fare and Chinese food. Lakshmi Restaurant SOUTH INDIAN $ (Paltan Bazaar; mains ₹22-44; h10.30am-9pm) If

you’re looking for fast, cheap and tasty, Lakshmi is your place. Near the top of Paltan Bazaar, the busy, blue-walled dining room is a classic Indian restaurant. Dosas and lassis are the specialties, plus chow mein and a few other South Indian snacks.

Drinking

Maa Cozy Coffee Lounge CAFE (76 Rajpur Rd; h11am-11pm) A hip Arabian-

style lounge where you can smoke a fruit sheesha (water pipe from ₹210) while reclining on cushions and rugs. Has a big range of tea, coffee and cold drinks.

Polo Bar BAR (6 Astley Hall, Rajpur Rd; h11am-11pm) One of

the more salubrious of Dehra Dun’s many hotel bars, this one is at Hotel President.

Barista CAFE (15a Rajpur Rd; drinks & snacks ₹10-50; h9am11pm) A popular modern cafe with board

games and an excellent bookshop next door.

Shopping

The congested but virtually traﬃc-free street through Paltan Bazaar, running south from the clock tower, is a popular spot for an evening stroll. Here you can pick up everything from cheap clothing and souvenirs to camping and trekking gear. Among the best bookshops in town are Natraj Booksellers (17 Rajpur Rd; h10.30am1.30pm & 3-8pm Mon-Sat), which gives plenty

English Book Depot (%2655192; www.english bookdepot.com; 15 Rajpur Rd; h10am-8pm), at-

407

tached to the Barista coﬀee shop. Though the Survey of India Map Counter (h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri; maps ₹20-70) in Harthibarkala is mostly good for being told which topographical maps you’re not allowed to buy, you can pick up trekking maps that aren’t bad for getting from village to village, but are worthless for backcountry navigation.

8 Information

Emergency Ambulance %2650102 Police %2653333 Internet Access iWay (Hotel Grand, Shri Laxmi Plaza, 64 Gandhi Rd; per hr ₹30; h10am-8pm) Netzone (per hr ₹25; h9am-9pm) Located one block southeast of the clock tower. Medical Services Doon College Hospital (%2760330; General Mahadev Singh Rd) Money The banks that are located on Rajpur Rd exchange travellers cheques and currency, and there are numerous ATMs that accept foreign credit cards. Post Main post office (Rajpur Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Tourist Information Uttarakhand Tourism office (%2653217; 45 Gandhi Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) The local tourist office, attached to the Hotel Drona. There’s also a tourist-information counter at the train station.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Kingfisher Airlines (www.flykingfisher.com) flies from Delhi to Dehra Dun’s Jolly Grant Airport – about 20km east of the city on the Haridwar road – at 10:50am and 3pm. Flights to Delhi depart at 12:25pm and 4:20pm. A taxi to/from the airport costs ₹550, or take the AC coach for ₹100 (call the Uttarakhand Tourism oﬃce for details). Bus Nearly all long-distance buses arrive and depart from the huge, modern Interstate Bus Terminal (ISBT), 5km south of the city centre. To get

D RTAR I N KAKHAND ING UT DE RH I NRKAI NDGU N

serves what surely comes close to the Platonic Form of a masala dosa, which is the main reason locals flock here. Other Indian dishes are also cooked to near perfection and even the Chinese food is quite good. The waitstaﬀ are very attentive.

of shelf to local author Ruskin Bond, and

408

BUSES FROM DEHRA DUN The following buses depart from the Interstate Bus Terminal (ISBT). DESTINATION

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

FREQUENCY

Chandigarh

150

hourly btwn 4am & 10pm

UT TAR AKHAND

Delhi (deluxe)

290/392AC

hourly btwn 4am & 10.30pm

Delhi (standard)

200

hourly btwn 4am & 10.30pm

Dharamsala

380/700AC

12.30pm & 5pm (AC)

Haridwar

half-hourly

Joshimath

300

5.30am

Manali

425

3pm

Nainital

275

7 per day

Ramnagar

200

7 per day

Rishikesh

1½

half-hourly

Shimla

240

6am, 8am, 10am, 11.30pm

Uttarkashi

225

5am & 8am

there take a local bus (₹5), vikram 5 (₹10) or an autorickshaw (₹100). A few buses to Mussoorie leave from here but most go from the Mussoorie bus stand (₹35, 1½ hours, half-hourly between 6am & 8pm) next to the train station. Some head to Mussoorie’s Picture Palace bus stand while others go to the Library bus stand across town. Private buses to Joshimath (₹250, 12 hours, departs 7am) and Uttarkashi (₹190, 9 hours, departs 8.15am & 1pm) leave from the Parade Ground bus stand. For more bus details, see the table, p 408. Taxi A taxi to Mussoorie costs ₹510, while a share taxi should cost ₹100 per person; both can be found in front of the train station. Taxis charge ₹810 to Rishikesh and ₹960 to Haridwar. Train Dehra Dun is well connected by train to Delhi, and there are a handful of services to Lucknow, Varanasi, Chennai (Madras) and Kolkata (Calcutta). The quickest service linking Dehra Dun and Delhi is the daily Shatabdi Express (chair/executive ₹390/780), which leaves New Delhi train station at 6.50am and reaches Dehra Dun at 12.40pm. The return trip leaves Dehra Dun at 5pm. The daily Mussoorie Express (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹130/365/508, 11 hours) is an overnight service that leaves Delhi Sarai Rohilla station at 9.05pm. The return trip leaves Dehra Dun at 9.30pm. The overnight Dehradun-Amritsar Express (sleeper/3A ₹127/356, 12 hours) to Amritsar departs daily at 7.40pm.

8 Getting Around

Hundreds of eight-seater vikrams (₹3 to ₹10 per trip) race along five fixed routes (look at the front for the number). Most useful is vikram 5, which runs between the ISBT stand, the train station and Rajpur Rd, and as far south as the Tibetan colony at Clement Town. Vikram 1 runs up and down Rajpur Rd above Gandhi Park, and also to Harthibarkala (check with the driver to see which route he’s on). Autorickshaws cost ₹30 for a short distance, ₹100 from ISBT to the city centre or ₹120 per hour for touring around the city.

Mussoorie % 0135 / POP 29,319 / ELEV 2000M

Perched on a ridge 2km high, the ‘Queen of Hill Stations’ vies with Nainital as Uttarakhand’s favourite holiday destination. When the mist clears, views of the green Doon Valley and the distant white-capped Himalayan peaks are superb, and in the hot months the cooler temperatures and fresh mountain air make a welcome break from the plains below. Although Mussoorie’s main bazaars can at first seem like a tacky holiday camp for families and honeymooners, there are plenty of walks in the area, interesting Raj-era buildings, and an upbeat atmosphere. Established by the British in 1823, Mussoorie became hugely popular with the Raj set. The ghosts of that era linger on in the architecture of the churches, libraries, hotels and summer palaces. The town is swamped

with visitors between May and July, but at other times many of the 300 hotels have vacancies and their prices drop dramatically. Central Mussoorie consists of two developed areas: Gandhi Chowk (also called Library Bazaar) at the western end, and the livelier Kulri Bazaar and Picture Palace at the eastern end, linked by the (almost) traﬃc-free 2km Mall. Beyond Kulri Bazaar a narrow road leads 5km to the settlement of Landour. Gun Hill

VIEWPOINT

From midway along the Mall, a cable car (return ₹55; h8am-9pm May-Jul & Oct, 10am-6pm Aug-Sep & late Nov-Apr) runs up to Gun Hill (2530m), which, on a clear day, has views of several big peaks. A steep path also winds up to the viewpoint. The most popular time to go up is an hour or so before sunset and there’s a minicarnival atmosphere in high season with kids’ rides, food stalls, magic shops and honeymooners having their photos taken in Garhwali costumes. Walks

WALKING

When the clouds don’t get in the way, the walks around Mussoorie oﬀer great views. Camel’s Back Rd is a popular 3km promenade from Kulri Bazaar to Gandhi Chowk, and passes a rock formation that looks like a camel. There are a couple of good mountain viewpoints along the way, and you can ride a horse (one way/return ₹200/250) along the trail if you start from the Gandhi Chowk end. An enjoyable, longer walk (5km one way) starts at the Picture Palace Cinema, goes past Union Church and the clock tower to Landour and the Sisters’ Bazaar area. West of Gandhi Chowk, a more demanding walk is to the Jwalaji Temple on Benog Hill (about 18km return) via Clouds End Hotel. The walk passes through thick forest and oﬀers some fine views. A slightly shorter walk is to the abandoned Everest House (12km return), former residence of Sir George Everest, first surveyor-general of India and namesake of the world’s highest mountain. Trek Himalaya (%2630491; Upper Mall; h9.30am-8pm) can organise guides for around ₹650 a day. Jawahar Aquarium AQUARIUM (The Mall; admission ₹15; h9am-9pm) Just up

from the cable-car station, this aquarium is Mussoorie’s newest attraction. Kids

409

C Courses Mussoorie is home to many schools and colleges, including the Landour Language

School (%2631487; www.landourlanguageschool. com; Landour; h1st Mon in Feb-2nd Fri in Dec). One

of India’s leading schools for teaching conversational Hindi at beginner, intermediate and advanced levels. Group classes are ₹175 per hour, and private tutorials are ₹275 per hour. There’s an enrolment fee of ₹250, and course books are an extra ₹2000.

T Tours

GMVN Booth SIGHTSEEING (%2631281; Library bus stand; h10am-5pm MonSat) GMVN organises a number of local bus

tours, including to Kempty Falls (three-hour tour ₹70), and Dhanoltri, Surkhanda Devi Temple and Mussoorie Lake (full-day tour ₹160). Tours can also be booked at the Utterakhand Tourist oﬃce on the Lower Mall. Trek Himalaya TREKKING (%2630491; www.trekhimalaya.com; Upper Mall; h9.30am-8pm) For around ₹2500 per day,

long-time local trekker Neelambar Badoni organises three-day treks to unspoilt Nagtibba, as well as customised treks to Dodital, Har-ki-Dun and Gaumukh Glacier, and safaris as far as Ladakh.

4 Sleeping Peak season is summer (May to July) when hotel prices shoot to ridiculous heights. There’s a midseason during the honeymoon period around October and November, and over Christmas and New Year. At other times you should be able to get a bargain. The following prices are for midseason, unless otherwise specified. Budget places are few (you’ll find some dives near Picture Palace), but most hotels drop their rates to almost budget levels out of season.

oKasmanda Palace

HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ Hotel (%2632424; www.kasmandapalace.com; d ₹40006500, low-season discount 20%) Located oﬀ the

Mall, this is Mussoorie’s most romantic hotel. The white Romanesque castle was built in 1836 for a British oﬃcer and was bought by the Maharaja of Kasmanda in 1915. The red-carpeted hall has a superb staircase

SIG H TAKHAND S & AC T I VM ESSTOSO&R IAC UT TAR SIITUGISH E TIVITIES

1 Sights & Activities

might like it, but your local pet shop is more impressive.

410

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flanked by moth-eaten hunting trophies (the tiger and leopard skins are a sad anachronism). All of the rooms have charm but the wood-panelled and antique-filled Maharaja Room is the royal best. There’s also a separate cottage with six renovated contemporarystyle rooms. The formal dining room and pretty garden area complete the picture. Hotel Broadway HOTEL $ (%2632243; Camel’s Back Rd, Kulri Bazaar; d ₹600-1200, low-season discount 50%) The best

of the budget places by a country mile, this historic 1880s wooden hotel with colourful flowerboxes in the windows oozes character without sacrificing comfort. It’s in a quiet location but close to the Mall. Room 1 has good views and lovely sunlit bay windows.

Hotel Padmini Nivas HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%2631093; www.hotelpadmininivas.com; The Mall; d ₹1875-2400, ste ₹2850-3300; i) Built in 1840

by a British colonel and then bought by the Maharaja of Rajpipla, this green-roofed heritage hotel has real old-fashioned charm. Large rooms with quaint sun rooms, suites and even a private cottage are well appointed and beautifully furnished. The dining room, with its antique furniture, is an outstanding feature, and the whole place is set on 2 hectares of landscaped gardens.

5 Eating Most of Mussoorie’s best eating places are at the Kulri Bazaar and Picture Palace end of town. True to the holiday feel there are lots of fast-food places, and most hotels have their own restaurants. A branch of the popular Barista coﬀee shops is at Gandhi Chowk and there’s a Café Coffee Day in Kulri Bazaar. Imperial Square CONTINENTAL $$ (%2632632; Gandhi Chowk; mains ₹120-320; h7.30am-11pm; W) The tastefully understated

Imperial, with huge windows overlooking Gandhi Chowk, scores high on everything – decor, service and, most importantly, food. The menu is strong on Continental dishes, with long lists of chicken platters and sizzlers, plus big toasted vegetarian or nonvegetarian sandwiches perfect for lunch. For breakfast you can even have waﬄes. There’s an attached hotel (d ₹4000, oﬀ-season discount 30%) with excellent rooms with valley views.

Lovely Omelette Centre FAST FOOD $ (The Mall, Kulri Bazaar; mains ₹35-60; h8am9pm) Mussorie’s most famous eatery is also

its smallest – a cubbyhole along the Mall that serves what many say are the best omelettes in India (a Facebook page for the restaurant started by an omelette lover

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ÿ Sleeping 3 Hotel Broadway ................................... E2 4 Hotel Padmini Nivas ............................ B1 5 Kasmanda Palace Hotel...................... B1 ú Eating 6 Imperial Square ................................... A1 7 Kalsang Friends Corner ......................D2 Kasmanda Palace Restaurant.....(see 5) 8 Lovely Omelette Centre ...................... E2 9 Tavern .................................................. E3 ü Drinking 10 Barista .................................................. B1 11 Café Coffee Day...................................D2

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411

has over 2000 friends). The specialty is the cheese omelette, with chilies, onions and spices, served over toast, but the maestro at the frying pan will whip up a chocolate omelette on request. Kasmanda Palace MULTICUISINE $$ Restaurant (%2632424; mains ₹110-350) The regal restaur-

ant at this Raj-era hotel (found north of the Mall) is the perfect escape from Mussoorie’s holiday bustle. The wood-panelled dining room is intimate but not stuﬀy, and the garden restaurant is fine for a lazy lunch or summer evening. The food lives up to the setting with North and South Indian dishes, as well as Continental (moussaka and pastas) and Chinese.

Tavern MULTICUISINE $$ (The Mall, Picture Palace; mains ₹90-300; h11am11pm) Run by the same family that owns

the Imperial Square, this is a long-time favourite place to dine and hang out, with a global range of food from crispy roast lamb to Goan fish curry and just about everything in between. The decor is a bit British pub, but staﬀ are welcoming and there’s live music in the evening. Beer (₹160) and cocktails are available at the bar.

þ Shopping 12 Tibetan Market .................................... B1 Information Connexions .................................. (see 9) GMVN Booth ............................... (see 17) 13 Library .................................................. A1 14 Trek Himalaya......................................D2 Transport 15 Cycle-rickshaw Stand ......................... A1 16 Cycle-rickshaw Stand .........................D2 17 Library Bus Stand................................ A1 18 Northern Railway Booking Agency...............................................D2 19 Picture Palace Bus Stand ................... F3 Taxi Stand ...................................(see 19) Taxi Stand ................................... (see 17)

Kalsang Friends Corner TIBETAN $$ (The Mall, Kulri Bazaar; mains ₹70-150; h11.30am10.30pm) Tibetan-run, Kalsang has a longer

list of momos than you might think possible – and they’re done right. Also strong on Thai food, this place is deservedly popular for its coconut curries, Thai papaya salad and noodles.

Shopping

There’s a Tibetan Market (The Mall; hfrom 9am) with cheap clothing and other goods. Mussoorie has a wonderful collection of magic shops, where you can buy cheap but baﬄing magic tricks and whacky toys – great gifts for kids. These shops are scattered mainly along the Mall and at Gun Hill.

S HTAR O P PAKHAND ING UT S HUOSPSPOIONRGI E M

3ÿ #

Mussoorie æ Sights 1 Gun Hill ................................................. D1 2 Jawahar Aquarium ..............................C2

c k Rd

412

UT TAR AKHAND

8 Information

8 Getting Around

Money Axis Bank ATM (The Mall and Gandhi Chowk) Bank of Baroda ATM (Kulri Bazaar) State Bank of India ATM (The Mall, Kulri Bazaar) Trek Himalaya (%2630491; Upper Mall; h9.30am-8pm) Exchanges major currencies and travellers cheques at a fair rate.

Haridwar

Internet Access Connexions (The Mall, Kulri Bazaar; per hr ₹60; h10.30am-10.30pm) Above the Tavern.

Post Main post office (%2632206; Upper Mall, Kulri Bazaar; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Tourist Information GMVN booth (%2631281; Library bus stand; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Can book local tours, treks and far-flung rest houses. Uttarakhand Tourism office (%2632863; Lower Mall; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Near the cable-car station.

8 Getting There & Away

Bus Frequent buses leave from Dehra Dun’s Mussoorie bus stand (next to the train station) for Mussoorie (₹35, 1½ hours). Some go to the Picture Palace bus stand (%2632259) while others go to the Library bus stand (%2632258) at the other end of town – if you know where you’re staying it helps to be on the right bus. The return trip takes an hour. There are no direct buses to Rishikesh or Haridwar – change at Dehra Dun. Mussoorie provides access to the mountain towns of Garhwal, but direct buses are not frequent. Head to the Library bus stand for buses and jeeps heading north. For Yamunotri, take a local bus to Barkot (₹140, 3½ hours), then another to Hanuman Chatti (₹60, 2½ hours), from where there are jeeps. The trip to Sankri for the Har-ki Dun trek also requires a combination of buses and share jeeps. For Uttarkashi, leave from the Tehri bus stand on the way to Landour and change at Chamba. Taxi From taxi stands at both bus stands you can hire taxis to Dehra Dun (₹510) and Rishikesh (₹1300), or jeeps to Uttarkashi (₹2700). A shared taxi to Dehra Dun should cost ₹100 per person. Train The Northern Railway booking agency (%2632846; Lower Mall, Kulri Bazaar; h8-11am & noon-3pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) books tickets for trains from Dehra Dun and Haridwar.

Central Mussoorie is very walkable – for a hill station, the Mall and Camel’s Back Rd are surprisingly flat. Cycle-rickshaws along the Mall cost ₹20, but can only go between Gandhi Chowk and the cable-car station. A full day of sightseeing around Mussoorie by taxi costs around ₹2000, including visits to the popular and overdeveloped Kempty Falls, 15km west, and to Dhanoltri – a serene spot 25km east, set in deodar forests with Himalayan views.

% 01334 / POP 220,433 / ELEV 249M

Propitiously located at the point where the Ganges emerges from the Himalaya, Haridwar (also called Hardwar) is Uttarakhand’s holiest Hindu city, and pilgrims arrive here in droves to bathe in the often fast-flowing Ganges. The sheer numbers of people gathering around Har-ki-Pairi Ghat give Haridwar a chaotic but reverent feel – as in Varanasi, it’s easy to get caught up in the spiritual clamour here. Within the religious heirarchy of India, Haridwar is much more significant than Rishikesh, an hour further north, and every evening the river comes alive with flickering flames as floating oﬀerings are released onto the Ganges. Dotted around the city are impressive temples, both ancient and modern, dharamsalas (pilgrims’ guesthouses) and ashrams, some of which are the size of small villages. Haridwar is busy during the yatra (pilgrimage) season from May to October, and is the site of the annual Magh Mela religious festival. Haridwar’s main street is Railway Rd, becoming Upper Rd, and runs parallel to the Ganges canal (the river proper runs further to the east). Generally only cycle-rickshaws are allowed between Laltarao Bridge and Bhimgoda Jhula (Bhimgoda Bridge), so vehicles travel around the opposite bank of the river. The alleyways of Bara Bazaar run south of Har-ki-Pairi Ghat.

1 Sights & Activities Har-ki-Pairi Ghat

GHAT

Har-ki-Pairi (The Footstep of God) is where Vishnu is said to have dropped some heavenly nectar and left behind a footprint. As such, it is very sacred to Hindus, and is the place to wash away your sins. Pilgrims bathe here in its often fast currents and donate money to the priests and shrines. The ghat sits on the western bank of the Ganges canal, and every evening hundreds

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of worshippers gather for the ganga aarti (river worship ceremony). Oﬃcials in blue uniforms collect donations (and give out receipts) and, as the sun sets, bells ring out a rhythm, torches are lit, and leaf baskets with flower petals inside and a candle on top (₹10) are lit and put on the river to drift away downstream. Tourists can mingle with the crowd to experience the rituals of an ancient religion that still retains its power in the modern age. Someone may claim to be a priest and help you with your puja before asking for ₹200 or more. If you want to make a donation, give it to a uniformed collector, or put money in a charity box. The best times to visit the ghat are early morning or just before dusk. Mansa Devi & Chandi Devi HINDU TEMPLES Temples Take the cable car (return ₹48; h7am-7pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-6pm Nov-Mar) to the crowded hilltop temple of Mansa Devi, a wish-

fulfilling goddess. The path to the cable car is lined with stalls selling packages of prasad (food oﬀering used in religious ceremonies) to take up to the goddess on the hill. You can walk up (1.5km) but beware of prasad-stealing monkeys. Photography is forbidden in the temple.

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æ Top Sights Har-ki-Pairi Ghat.................................. D1 æ Sights 1 Mansa Devi Temple............................. C1

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 2 Mohan's Adventure Tours ..................B3 ÿ Sleeping 3 Haveli Hari Ganga ................................C2 4 Hotel Swagat Palace ...........................B3 5 Yatri Niwas ........................................... D1 ú Eating 6 Big Ben Restaurant .............................B3 Haveli Hari Ganga Restaurant .... (see 3) 7 Hoshiyar Puri .......................................D2 Information 8 GMVN Tourist Office ...........................C2 9 Uttarakhand Tourism Office...............B3 Transport 10 GMOU Bus Stand ................................B3 11 Private Bus Stand................................B2 12 UP Roadways Bus Stand ....................B3 13 Vikrams to Rishikesh...........................C2

SIG H TAKHAND S & AC T I VH TGR IH EI SD UT TAR SIIA TS WA&RAC T I V I T I E S

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To Bhimgoda Jhula (250m); Bhaj-Govindam (250m); Moyhal Ashram (3.5km); Rishiskesh (15km)

Rishikesh Rd

414

Many visitors and pilgrims combine this with a cable car (return ₹117; h8am-6pm) up Neel Hill, 4km southeast of Haridwar, to Chandi Devi Temple. The temple was built by Raja Suchet Singh of Kashmir in 1929. Pay ₹165 at Mansa Devi and you can ride both cable cars and take an AC coach between the two temples.

T Tours UT TAR AKHAND

From his oﬃce next to Chitra Talkies cinema, Sanjeev Mehta of Mohan’s Adven-

ture Tours (%9412022966, 9319051335; www. mohansadventure.in; Railway Rd; h8am-10.30pm)

can organise any kind of tour, including trekking, fishing, birdwatching, cycling, motorcycling and rafting. An accomplished wildlife photographer, he specialises in fivehour safaris (₹2350 per person) around Rajaji National Park. Sanjeev also runs threeday trips to Corbett Tiger Reserve (from ₹7000). Tours operate year-round.

4 Sleeping Haridwar has loads of hotels catering to Hindu pilgrims. The busiest time of year is the yatra season from April to November – outside this time you should have no problem finding a room at discounts of 20% to 50%. For details on staying at an ashram, see the boxed text below. Jassa Ram Rd and the other alleys running oﬀ Railway Rd have plenty of budget hotels and although some of the fancy foyers and neon signs may raise your hopes, none are great. Rishikesh has far superior budget accommodation.

Down by the ghats are a number of similar high-rise hotels that are recommended mainly for the location and views, and are popular with middle-class pilgrims.

oHaveli Hari Ganga

HERITAGE HOTEL $$$

(%226443; www.havelihariganga.com; 21 Ram Ghat; r ₹4000-5000; aW) Hidden away in

Bara Bazaar, but right on the Ganges, this superb 1918 haveli (traditional, ornately decorated residence) is Haridwar’s finest hotel. Airy courtyards, marble floors, hanging flower baskets and balconies overlooking the river give it a regal charm. Room rates include breakfast, steam bath, yoga and the hotel’s own ganga aarti on its private ghat. The Ganges laps one terrace, and downstairs an ayurvedic health spa oﬀers treatments as well as yoga classes. It’s hard to find, so call ahead for a pick-up. Yatri Niwas

HOTEL $$

(%226004; www.yatriniwas.com; Upper Rd; r ₹1000) Just a few minutes walk from Harki-Pairi Ghat and the Mansa Devi cable car, this place is set back from the road around a surprisingly quiet courtyard. Rooms are good value, with nice wooden furnishings, glass and steel light fixtures, flat-screen TVs and modern bathrooms. Bhaj-Govindam HOTEL $$ (%261682; www.bhajgovindam.com; Upper Rd; huts ₹800, d from ₹1800; a) Located on Upper

Rd about 100m north of Bhimgoda Jhula, Bhaj-Govindam is in a wonderful spot with river frontage on the banks of the Ganges. Set around a grassy garden and with an am-

HARIDWAR’S ASHRAM STAYS Most travellers make a beeline for Rishikesh to partake in yoga and spirituality and to stay in an ashram, but Haridwar has several serious ashrams where you’ll be surrounded by longer-term practitioners and a less commercial feel. The two most accessible to foreigners: Shri Prem Nagar Ashram (%226345; www.manavdharam.com; Jwalapur Rd) This large ashram was founded by Hansji Maharaj, who died in 1966. His extraordinary mausoleum features a pyramidical blue ceiling with eight steps representing the seven holy rivers and the sea. Silent meditation takes place at 5am and singing prayers are at 7.30pm. The ashram has its own cows, ayurvedic medicine factory and bookshop, as well as a huge, pillarless meeting hall and a ghat facing the Ganges. Plain rooms (from ₹300) have fans, private bathrooms and hot water. Mohyal Ashram (%9219441137; mohans_india@yahoo.com; Rishikesh Rd; d ₹650, with AC ₹1200; a) More a yoga retreat than an ashram, Mohyal has peaceful lawns, marble floors and a meditation and yoga hall with wonderful acoustics. The spotless, almost luxurious accommodation includes meals and occasional classes. This is not a strict ashram (although smoking, alcohol and meat are prohibited), and casual guests are welcome.

biance that’s classy yet casual, rooms are as comfortable as you’d expect for the price, with some of the best mattresses in town. There are also a couple of worn reed huts you can stay in. Hotel Swagat Palace HOTEL $ (%221581; Jassa Ram Rd; d with/without AC ₹950/450; a) Rooms here are large and

5 Eating & Drinking Being a holy city, only vegetarian food and nonalcoholic drinks are available. Hoshiyar Puri INDIAN $ (Upper Rd; mains ₹40-70; h11am-4pm & 7pm-4am)

Established in 1937, this place still has a loyal (and well-deserved) local following. The dal makhani (Kashmiri beans and lentils), lacha paratha (layered fried bread), aloo gobi (potato-and-cauliflower curry) and kheer (rice pudding) are lip-smackingly good. Big Ben Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (Hotel Ganga Azure, Railway Rd; mains ₹80-150; h8.30am-10.30pm) Watch the passing parade

through the big windows and enjoy some of Haridwar’s best food in this restaurant of mirrors, soft music and polite staﬀ. It’s a solid choice for breakfast, with good coﬀee. There’s wi-fi in the adjoining lobby.

Haveli Hari Ganga Restaurant INDIAN (%226443; www.havelihariganga.com; 21 Ram Ghat; dinner buffet ₹450; h8.30-11pm) The

$$$

Indian vegetarian buffet at this lovely heritage hotel is the classiest in Haridwar.

Prakash Lok LASSI $ (Bara Bazaar; lassis ₹20). Don’t miss a creamy

lassi at this Haridwar institution, known for its ice-cold, best-you’ll-ever-have lassis served in tin cups. Just about anyone in the Bara Bazaar can point you to it.

8 Information

Internet Access There are a number of internet places on Railway Rd near the train station and down the side lanes, but most have only one or two terminals. These places have more. Hillway Internet (Jassa Ram Rd; per hr ₹30; h9am-10.30pm)

415

Medical Services Rishikul Ayurvedic Hospital (%221003; Railway Rd) A long-established medical college and hospital with a good reputation. Money Sai Forex (Upper Rd; h10am-9pm) Changes cash and travellers cheques for a commission of 1%. State Bank of India ATM (Railway Rd) Post Main post office (Upper Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Tourist Information GMVN tourist office (%224240; Railway Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Uttarakhand Tourism office (%265304; Rahi Motel, Railway Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

8 Getting There & Away

Haridwar is well connected by bus and train, but book ahead for trains during the pilgrimage season (May to October). Bus For details of major bus routes from Haridwar, see the table, p 416. Private deluxe buses and sleeper buses run to Delhi (deluxe/Volvo ₹175/400), Agra (seat/ sleeper ₹240/295), Jaipur (₹375/475) and Pushkar (₹400/500). They leave from a stand around the corner from the GMVN tourist oﬃce by the gurdwara (Sikh temple), and any travel agent in town can make a booking. Taxi & Vikram The main taxi stand is outside the train station on Railway Rd. Destinations include Chilla (for Rajaji National Park, ₹510), Rishikesh (₹700, one hour) and Dehra Dun (₹1000), but it’s usually possible to arrange a taxi for less than these oﬃcial rates. You can hire private jeep Sumos to go to one or all of the pilgrimage sites on the Char Dham between April and October. One-way rates for Gangotri, Yamnotri and Badrinath are ₹6520 each; Kedarnath costs ₹5500; a 9-day tour of all four is ₹17,150. Shared vikrams run up and down Railway Rd (₹10) and to Rishikesh (₹30, one hour) from Upper Rd at Laltarao Bridge, but for that trip buses are more comfortable. You can hire the whole thing to Rishikesh’s Lakshman Jhula for ₹400. Train The trains listed in the table on p 417 run daily, except as indicated.

E AT ING & D R I N KH UT TAR AKHAND E IAT ANRGIINDGWA & RD R I N K I N G

clean, with tiled floors. Each has its own quirks, so check out a few, but all in all it’s decent value and close to the train and bus stations. Ask for a discount and you will probably get it.

Internet Zone iWay (Upper Rd; per hr ₹30; h10am-8.30pm)

416

BUSES FROM HARIDWAR The following buses depart from the UP Roadways bus stand on Railway Rd. DESTINATION

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

FREQUENCY

Agra

300

early morning

Almora

370

early morning & 5.30pm

Chandigarh

140

hourly

Dehra Dun

half-hourly half-hourly

UT TAR AKHAND

Delhi

140

Dharamsala

350

2.30pm & 4.30pm

Jaipur

310

early morning

Nainital

300

early morning & evening

Ranikhet

230

6am & 5pm

Rishikesh

half-hourly

Shimla

255

1.30am, 12.30pm & 5.30pm

Uttarkashi

200

5.30am, 7.30am & 9.30am

In the yatra (pilgrimage) season from May to October, the following buses run from the GMOU bus stand on Railway Rd. During monsoon season (July to mid-September), service is occasionally suspended. For current info, call %9897924247 for the Gangotri route and %9364936474 for Kedarnath and Badrinath buses. DESTINATION

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

FREQUENCY

Badrinath (via Joshimath)

325

4.15am & 5am

Gangotri

300

5am

Kedarnath

235

5.30am & 7am

8 Getting Around

Cycle-rickshaws cost ₹10 for a short distance and ₹30 for longer hauls, such as from the Haridwar train station to Har-ki-Pairi. Hiring a taxi for three hours to tour the local temples and ashrams costs around ₹700; an autorickshaw costs ₹300.

Rajaji National Park ELEV 300-1000M

This unspoilt park (www.rajajinationalpark.in; admission Indian/foreigner per day ₹150/600; h15 Nov-15 Jun), covering 820 sq km in the forest-

ed foothills near Haridwar, is best known for its wild elephants, numbering around 450 at last count. As well as elephants, the park contains some 15 tigers and 100 leopards. Although they’re not easily seen, they have thousands of chital (spotted deer) and hundreds of sambars (India’s largest species of deer) to feed on. A handful of rarely seen sloth bears

are hidden away. Some 300 species of birds also add interest. Rajaji’s forests include the traditional winter territory of over 1000 families of nomadic Van Gujjar buffalo herders – most of whom have been evicted from the park against their will. For more on this and other issues affecting the unique Van Gujjar tribe, visit www.sophiaindia.org. The village of Chilla, 13km northeast of Haridwar, is the base for visiting the park. At the Forest Ranger’s office, close to the tourist guesthouse at Chilla, you can pick up a brochure, pay entry fees and organise a jeep. These take up to eight people and cost ₹700 for the standard safari (plus a ₹100 entry fee for the vehicle). Elephant rides are no longer offered at Rajaji. Before visiting, contact the GMVN tour-

ist office (Map p413; %2244240; Railway Rd, Haridwar; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) and Mohan’s Adventure Tours (Map p413; %220910; www. mohansadventure.in; Railway Rd, Haridwar; h8am-

TRAINS FROM HARIDWAR

417 DEPARTURE/ ARRIVAL

sleeper/3AC/2AC 147/384/522

8¾

11.10pm/7.55am

Shatabdi Express

chair car/executive 512/950

4½

6.13pm/10.45pm

Delhi (New Delhi Station)

Jan Shatabdi Express

2nd class/chair car 110/352

4½

6.22am/11.15am

Lucknow

Doon Express

sleeper/3AC/2AC 212/564/772

10.15pm/8.15am

Varanasi

Doon Express

sleeper/3AC/2AC 298/811/1112

10.15pm/4.10pm

Kolkata/Howrah

Doon Express

sleeper/3AC/2AC 423/1152/1587

10.15pm/7am (two nights later)

Amritsar

Jan Shatabdi

2nd class/chair car 140/457

2.35pm/9.45pm

Amritsar

Dehra Dun– Amritsar Express

sleeper/3AC/1st class 192/503/580

9¾

9.40pm/7.25am

Haldwani (for Nanital and Almora)

Dehra Dun–Kathgodam Express

sleeper/2AC/1AC 146/516/860

6½

12.20am/6.50am

TRAIN

FARE (₹)

Delhi (Old Delhi Station)

Mussoorie Express

Delhi (New Delhi Station)

10.30pm), which oﬀers abridged safaris even when the park is oﬃcially closed. These are five-hour trips (₹2350 per person) that include being taken on a short safari, hopefully seeing a parade of wild elephants, and maybe visiting a Van Gujjar forest camp. If you’re lucky, Sanjeev might take you to see his legally adopted orphaned elephant.

driver. To book a forest rest house, contact the director at the Rajaji National Park Of-

4 Sleeping & Eating

bathrooms, full meal service and optional jeep tours.

The Chilla Guesthouse (%0138-226678; r with AC Indian/foreigner ₹1500/3000; a) is the GMVN rest house and the most comfortable place to stay in Chilla. There’s a good restaurant here and a pleasant garden. Within the park there are nine historic but basic forest rest houses at Asarohi, Beribara, Kansrao and Motichur (₹1000/2000 per Indian/foreigner), as well as Chilla, Phandowala and Ranipur (₹750/1500 per Indian/ foreigner). If you’re staying at one of the rest houses, the park entry fee is valid for three days. The 1883 forest rest house in Chilla has three rooms downstairs and a suite upstairs with a balcony, while the one at Kansrao has retained its original features. No food is available (except in Chilla) and if you don’t have your own transport you will have to make a special arrangement with a jeep

fice (%/fax 0135-2621669; 5/1 Ansari Marg, Dehra Dun). Mohan’s Adventure Tours (see p414)

can also make bookings. There’s also a new safari resort in the park north of Chilla, Camp King Elephant

(%9871604712; cottage per Indian/foreigner from ₹4000/$110), with solar electricity, private

8 Getting There & Away

Buses to Chilla (₹20, one hour) leave the GMOU bus stand in Haridwar every hour from 7am to 2pm. The last return trip leaves Chilla at 5.30pm. Taxis charge ₹510 one way for the 13km journey.

Rishikesh % 0135 / POP 79,591 / ELEV 356M

Ever since the Beatles rocked up at the ashram of the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in the late ’60s, Rishikesh has been a magnet for spiritual seekers. Today it styles itself as the ‘Yoga Capital of the World’, with masses of ashrams and all kinds of yoga and meditation classes. Most of this action is north of the main town, where the exquisite setting on the fast-flowing

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UT TAR AKHAND m Ra

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419

Rishikesh æ Top Sights Shri Trayanbakshwar Temple ...............G1 Swarg Niwas Temple..............................G1 æ Sights 1 Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram .......... D3 2 Parmarth Niketan Ashram.................... D2

ÿ Sleeping 11 Bhandari Swiss Cottage......................... E1 12 Divine Ganga Cottage ............................ F1 13 Green Hotel ............................................ D2 Green View Hotel.......................... (see 13) 14 High Bank Peasants Cottage................. E1 15 Hotel Ishan .............................................. F1 Hotel Rajpalace............................. (see 13) 16 Hotel Surya ............................................ G3 New Bhandari Swiss Cottage ....... (see 11)

Ganges, surrounded by forested hills, is conducive to meditation and mind expansion. In the evening, the breeze blows down the valley, setting temple bells ringing as sadhus (spiritual men), pilgrims and tourists prepare for the nightly ganga aarti. Rishikesh is very New Age: you can learn to play the sitar or tabla on your hotel roof; try laughing yoga; practise humming or gong meditation; experience crystal healing and all styles of massage; have a go at chanting mantras; and listen to spiritually uplifting CDs as you sip ayurvedic tea with your vegetarian meal. But it’s not all spirituality and contorted limbs. Rishikesh is now a popular whitewater rafting centre, backpacker hang-out, and gateway to treks in the Himalaya. Rishikesh is divided into two main areas: the crowded, unattractive downtown area (Rishikesh town), where you’ll find the bus and train stations as well as the Triveni Ghat; and the riverside communities 2km upstream around Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula, where most of the accommodation, ashrams,

ú Eating 18 Devraj Coffee Corner ..............................F1 19 Ganga Beach Restaurant ......................G3 20 Green Italian Restaurant .......................D2 La Bella View..................................(see 21) 21 Little Buddha Cafe ................................. F4 Lucky Restaurant..........................(see 19) 22 Madras Cafe ........................................... D1 Oasis Restaurant........................... (see 11) 23 Pyramid Cafe.......................................... F4 þ Shopping 24 Adventure Compass ...............................F1 Information Lucky Internet ...............................(see 19) 25 Main Post Office .....................................C4 26 Post Office .............................................. E2 Red Chilli Adventure .......................(see 7) Transport 27 Main Bus Stand ......................................B4 28 Private Buses to Delhi............................C2 29 Share Jeep Stand...................................A2 Taxi & Autorickshaw Stand......... (see 22) Taxi & Share Jeep Stand ..............(see 19) 30 Yatra & Local Bus Stand........................B3

restaurants and travellers are ensconced. The two jhula (suspension bridges) that cross the river are pedestrian-only. Swarg Ashram, located on the eastern bank, is the traﬃc-free ‘spiritual centre’ of Rishikesh, while High Bank, west of Lakshman Jhula, is a small enclave popular with backpackers.

1 Sights

Lakshman Jhula & Around

AREA

The defining image of Rishikesh is the view across the Lakshman Jhula hanging bridge to the huge, 13-storey wedding-cake temples of Swarg Niwas and Shri Trayanbakshwar. Built by the organisation of the guru Kailashanand, they resemble fairyland castles and have dozens of shrines to Hindu deities on each level, interspersed with jewellery and textile shops. Sunset is an especially good time to photograph the temples from the bridge itself, and you’ll hear the bell-clanging and chanting of devotees in the morning and evening. Shops selling devotional CDs add to the cacophony of noise on this side of the river.

SIG H TAKHAND S UT TAR SIG R S H ITKSE S H

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 3 De-N-Ascent Expeditions ...................... F1 4 GMVN Trekking & Mountaineering Division .................... C3 5 Om Rudra Cultural Society................... D2 6 Omkarananda Ganga Sadan .................D1 7 Red Chilli Adventure............................... F1 8 Sachdeva Language Service .................F4 9 Sivananda Ashram ................................. E1 10 Sri Sant Seva Ashram ........................... G4

17 Vasundhara Palace ................................C2

420

Markets, restaurants, ashrams and guesthouses sprawl on both sides of the river; in recent years the area has grown into the busiest and liveliest part of upper Rishikesh. Swarg Ashram

AREA

UT TAR AKHAND

A pleasant 2km walk south of Lakshman Jhula along the path skirting the east bank of the Ganges leads to the spiritual community of Swarg Ashram, made up of temples, ashrams, a crowded bazaar, sadhus and the bathing ghats where religious ceremonies are performed at sunrise and sunset. The colourful, though rather touristy, ganga aarti is held at the riverside temple of the Parmarth Niketan Ashram every evening at sunset, with singing, chanting, musicians and the lighting of candles. Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram

HISTORIC BUILDING

Just south of Swarg Ashram, slowly being consumed by the forest undergrowth, is what’s left of the original Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram. It was abandoned in 1997 and is now back under the control of the forest department. However, the shells of many buildings, meditation cells and lecture halls can still be seen, including Maharishi’s own house and the guest house where the Beatles stayed and apparently wrote much of the White Album.

Activities

Yoga & Meditation

Rishikesh styles itself as the yoga capital of the world, and yoga and meditation are the buzzwords here. Teaching and yoga styles vary tremendously, so check out a few classes before committing yourself to a course. If you want to get started, virtually every hotel oﬀers one-hour yoga sessions for around ₹100, but ashram stays are the best way to truly immerse yourself in the spiritual vibe. Many places also oﬀer ayurvedic massage. Sri Sant Seva Ashram MIXED YOGA (%2430465; www.santsewaashram.com; Lakshman Jhula; d ₹150-600, with AC ₹1000; i) Over-

looking the Ganges in Lakshman Jhula, the large rooms here are popular, so book ahead. The more expensive rooms have balconies with river views. The yoga classes are mixed styles and open to all. Beginner (₹100) and intermediate and advanced (₹200) sessions run daily. There are also courses in reiki, ayurvedic massage and cooking.

Omkarananda Ganga Sadan IYENGAR YOGA (%2430763; www.iyengaryoga.in; Lakshman Jhula Rd; r with/without AC ₹850/280, minimum 3-day stay) Also on the river, at Ram Jhula, this ash-

ram has comfortable rooms and specialises in Iyengar yoga classes at the Patanjala Yoga Kendra centre. There are daily classes (except Sunday; ₹250) and intensive seven- to 10-day courses (₹800) on oﬀer from October to May. The ashram has its own ghat and evening ganga aarti.

Sivananda Ashram YOGA, MEDITATION (%2430040; www.sivanandaonline.org; Lakshman Jhula Rd) Founded by Swami Shivananda,

this ashram is run by the Divine Life Society. Free yoga and meditation classes are available every morning, but two months’ advance notice is required if you want to stay here – email the ashram through its website. Parmarth Niketan Ashram HATHA YOGA (%244008; www.parmarth.com; Swarg Ashram; r ₹600) Dominating the centre of Swarg

Ashram and drawing visitors to its evening ganga aarti on the riverbank, Parmarth has a wonderfully ornate and serene garden courtyard. The price includes a room with a private bathroom, all meals and hatha yoga lessons. Rafting, Kayaking & Trekking

A number of companies offer full- and half-day rafting trips, putting in upstream and paddling back to Rishikesh. Some also offer multiday rafting trips, staying at rafting camps along the river bank. The official rafting season runs from 15 September to 30 June. A half-day trip starts at about ₹800 per person, while a full day costs from ₹1500. Most companies also offer allinclusive Himalayan treks to places such as Kuari Pass, Har-ki Dun and Gangotri from around ₹2300 per day. De-N-Ascent Expeditions KAYAKING, TREKKING (%2442354; www.kayakhimalaya.com; Tapovan Sarai, Lakshman Jhula) Specialist in kayaking

lessons and expeditions. Learn to paddle and eskimo roll with an experienced instructor, or go on multiday kayaking or rafting adventures. Also organises trekking trips.

GMVN Trekking & TREKKING Mountaineering Division (%2430799; www.gmvnl.com; Lakshman Jhula Rd, Muni-ki-Reti; h10am-5pm) Can arrange high-

altitude treks in the Garhwal Himalaya

and hires out trekking equipment, guides and porters.

z Festivals & Events

Red Chilli Adventure TREKKING, RAFTING (%2434021; www.redchilliadventure.com; Lakshman Jhula Rd; h9am-9pm) Reliable outfit

International Yoga Festival (www.international yogafestival.com), attracting swamis and yoga

In the first week of March, Rishikesh hosts the

offering Himalayan trekking and rafting trips throughout Uttarakhand and to Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh.

masters from around the world for discourses and lectures. Most of the action is centred on the Parmarth Niketan Ashram in Swarg Ashram. Check the festival website for dates.

Walks & Beaches

4 Sleeping

C Courses Look out for flyers around Lakshman Jhula, Swarg Ashram and High Bank advertising music tuition and concerts.

Om Rudra Cultural Society (%98376 54284; rudradance@rediﬀmail.com; Swarg Ashram; hSep-May) is run by an enterprising couple

Most of the accommodation is spread on both sides of the river around Lakshman Jhula; there are a handful of hotels among the ashrams at Swarg Ashram and directly across the river around Ram Jhula, and some good budget places at High Bank. For ashram stays, see p420. Midrange and top-end hotels are in relatively short supply in budget-minded Rishikesh. HIGH BANK

This small, leafy travellers’ enclave is a 20-minute walk up the hill from Lakshman Jhula and has some of the best backpacker accommodation in Rishikesh. All of the following places are clean, relaxed and good value. It gets pretty rowdy during peak season from November to March. New Bhandari Swiss Cottage HOTEL $ (%2435322; www.newbhandariswisscottag.com; d ₹300-800, AC cottages ₹1200-1800; ai) One of

and oﬀers kathak (classical) dance, flute, tabla or Hindi lessons.

the last places on the High Bank lane, this is a large, popular place with rooms ranging from clean and simple to simply impressive. There’s a massage centre, a good restaurant, and a helpful travel desk in their internet cafe.

Hindi language instruction.

High Bank Peasants Cottage HOTEL $$ (%2431167; d ₹600-800, with AC ₹1500-2000; aiW) A High Bank original, this is the

Sachdeva Language Service (%98971 03808; sachdevalanguage@yahoo.com.uk; Lakshman Jhula; per hr ₹150) oﬀers casual one-on-one

THE MAHARISHI & THE BEATLES In February 1968 Rishikesh hit world headlines when the Beatles and their partners stayed at Maharishi Mahesh Yogi’s ashram in Swarg Ashram, following an earlier visit by George Harrison. Ringo Starr and his wife didn’t like the vegetarian food, missed their children and left after a couple of weeks, but the others stayed for a month or two. They relaxed and wrote tons of songs, many of which ended up on their double album White Album. But rumours of the Maharishi’s demands for money and his behaviour towards some female disciples eventually disillusioned all of them. ‘You made a fool of everyone,’ John Lennon sang about the Maharishi. In later years, Harrison and Paul McCartney said, on record, that the rumours were unfounded. The original ashram is now abandoned, but nearly 40 years on, idealistic foreigners still swarm into Rishikesh seeking spiritual enlightenment from teachers and healers in their tranquil ashrams scattered along the Ganges River.

C OTAR U R SAKHAND ES UT C IOSUHRI K R SESH

An easy, 15-minute walk to two small waterfalls starts 3km north of Lakshman Jhula bridge on the south side of the river. The start is marked by drink stalls and a roadside shrine, and the path is easy to find. Four-wheel-drive taxis cost ₹100 from Lakshman Jhula. On the other side of the river, it’s about 2km north to the signposted walk to lovely Neer Garh Waterfall (admission ₹30), from where it’s a 20-minute uphill walk. For a longer hike, follow the dedicated pilgrims who take water from the Ganges to oﬀer at Neelkantha Mahadev Temple, a 7km, approximately three-hour walk along a forest path from Swarg Ashram.

421

422

most upmarket accommodation here (it’s closer to midrange than budget). Lovely gardens feature flowering trees and giant cacti, there are wicker chairs on the balconies, and the spacious rooms are neatly furnished. Bhandari Swiss Cottage HOTEL $ (%2432939; www.bhandariswisscottage.com; r ₹150-600, ste with AC ₹1500; ai) The first

UT TAR AKHAND

place you come to, this is a well-run backpacker favourite with rooms in several budgets – the higher up you stay, the higher the price. Rooms with big balconies have expansive views of the river backed by green mountains. Excellent little restaurant, internet cafe and yoga classes.

LAKSHMAN JHULA

There are several good budget options on both sides of the river here, which is the liveliest part of Rishikesh. Divine Ganga Cottage HOTEL $ (%2442175; www.divindgangacottage.com; r ₹300600; ai) Tucked away from the hubbub and

surrounded by small rice paddies and local homes with gardens, the huge upstairs terrace has supreme river views. Sweet rooms for the price have nice beds, and some have writing tables. There’s an ayurvedic spa and yoga instruction on some days.

Hotel Surya HOTEL $ (%2433211; www.hotelsuryalaxmanjhula.com; s/d ₹150/250) Above the Coﬀee Day, Surya is

great value. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the river and all are good-sized and clean, though there are signs that mice like it here too. The management is friendly and helpful. Hotel Ishan HOTEL $ (%2431534; narendra_u@hotmail.com; r ₹250-700; i) This long-running riverfront place near

Lakshman Jhula looks a bit rough, but has a wide range of clean rooms, some with balconies overlooking the river. The top-floor room with TV and balcony has a prime view. SWARG ASHRAM & MUNI-KI-RETI

If you’re serious about yoga and introspection, stay at one of Swarg’s numerous ashrams. Otherwise, there’s a knot of guest houses a block back from the river towards the southern end of Swarg. Green Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2434948; www.hotelgreen.com; Swarg Ashram; d with/without AC ₹1300/750; ai) In a small en-

clave of hotels down an alleyway, the newly

renovated Green has bright rooms with tasteful furnishings, hot showers and flat-screen TVs. There are peaceful views of the hills – but not the river – from the rooftop terrace. Hallways on some floors are connected by wooden bridges over the atrium. The sibling Green View Hotel around the corner is a bit cheaper (₹500-900) but not as nice. Vasundhara Palace HOTEL $$$ (%2442345; www.vasundharapalace.com; Muni-kiReti; s/d ₹2950/3550, ste ₹5500; as) Rishikesh’s

top riverside hotel, this modern high-rise has luxurious, tastefully designed rooms, an elegant restaurant, and a rooftop pool and health spa with river views – unfortunately, views from the rooms are blocked by apartments.

Hotel Rajpalace HOTEL $ (%2440079; rajholidays@hotmail.com; Swarg Ashram; d ₹450-650, with AC from ₹1000; a) This is

a small but well-run hotel with clean rooms and friendly staﬀ. The rooftop terrace has views, and facilities include a yoga hall and a travel agent oﬀering tours and activities.

5 Eating Virtually every restaurant in Rishikesh serves only vegetarian food, but there are lots of travellers’ restaurants whipping up various interpretations of Continental and Israeli food, as well as Indian and Chinese. LAKSHMAN JHULA

oLittle Buddha Cafe

MULTICUISINE $$

(mains ₹70-140; h8am-11pm) This funky tree-

house-style restaurant has an ultraloungey top floor, tables overlooking the Ganga, and really good international food. Pizzas are big and the mixed vegetable platter is a serious feast. It’s one of the busiest places in Lakshman Jhula, for good reasons. Devraj Coffee Corner CAFE $ (snacks & mains ₹30-100; h8am-9pm) Perched

above the bridge and looking across the river to Shri Trayanbakshwar temple, this German bakery is a sublime spot for a break at any time of the day. The coﬀee is the best in town and the menu ranges from specialties like brown bread with yak cheese to soups and sizzlers, along with the usual croissants and apple strudel. There’s a good new and used bookshop next door. Pyramid Cafe MULTICUISINE $ (mains ₹35-95; h8am-10.30pm; W) Sit on cush-

ions inside pyramid-shaped tents and choose

from a menu of home-cooked Indian food, plus a few Tibetan and Western dishes including pancakes. The family that runs it is super friendly and they also rent out a peaceful, well-kept pyramid tent with a double bed and attached bath (₹250). At the time of research, this was the only cafe in Rishikesh that had wi-fi (per hour ₹ 20). Bonus! Ganga Beach Restaurant MULTICUISINE $ (mains ₹60-120; h8am-10pm) Great riverside

Lucky Restaurant INDIAN (mains ₹40-100; h9am-10pm) An awesome

La Bella View MULTICUISINE (mains ₹60-120; h9m-11pm) A good menu

and a split personality: upstairs is more refined, with tables overlooking the river, while the cushioned downstairs area has a hippie-den vibe.

SWARG ASHRAM & RAM JHULA Madras Cafe INDIAN $ (Ram Jhula; mains ₹50-120) This local institu-

tion dishes up tasty South and North Indian vegetarian food, thalis, a mean mushroom curry, whole-wheat pancakes and the intriguing Himalayan ‘health pilau’, as well as super-thick lassis.

Green Italian Restaurant ITALIAN $$ (Swarg Ashram; mains ₹60-150) Wood-fired vege-

tarian pizzas and imported pastas including gnocchi and cannelloni keep the customers coming back to this spotless, glass-fronted restaurant in the heart of Swarg.

HIGH BANK

Backpackers gather at the popular restaurants on High Bank. This is the only area in town where you’ll find meat on the menu. Oasis Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (mains ₹45-190) At New Bhandari Swiss Cot-

tage, this place has some character, with candlelit tables in the garden and hanging lanterns inside. The menu covers oodles of world cuisines, from Mexican and Thai to Israeli and Tibetan, and features a number of chicken dishes including a delicious chilli chicken. Great desserts include apple crumble.

Adventure Compass (%9899297904; www. adventurecompass.com; Badrinath Rd, Lakshman Jhula), which stocks everything from sleep-

ing bags and carabiners to climbing harnesses and trekking boots.

8 Information

riverside garden shaded by a huge tree and a cushioned area.

Shopping

Swarg Ashram is the place to go for bookshops, ayurvedic herbal medicines, clothing, handicrafts and tourist trinkets such as

423

Dangers & Annoyances Travellers should be cautious of being befriended by sadhus – while many sadhus are on genuine spiritual journeys, the orange robes have been used as a disguise by fugitives from the law since medieval times. The current in some parts of the Ganges is very strong, and as inviting as a dip from one of the beaches may seem, people drown here every year. Don’t swim out of your depth. Women walking alone may be at risk. Internet Access Internet access is available all over town, usually for ₹20 or ₹30 per hour. Blue Hills Travels (Swarg Ashram; per hr ₹30; h8am-10pm) Lucky Internet (Lakshman Jhula; per hr ₹30; h8.30am-10pm) Wi-fi access. Red Chilli Adventure (Lakshman Jhula Rd; per hr ₹30; h9am-9pm) Surf with a view. Medical Services Himalayan Institute Hospital (%2471133; h24hr) The nearest large hospital, 17km along the road to Dehra Dun and 1km beyond Jolly Grant airport. Shivananda Ashram (%2430040; www.siva nandaonline.org; Lakshman Jhula Rd) Provides free medical services and a pharmacy. Money Several travel agents around Lakshman Jhula and Swarg Ashram will exchange travellers cheques and cash. Axis Bank ATM (Swarg Ashram) Bank of Baroda ATM (Dehra Dun Rd) State Bank of India ATM (Swarg Ashram & Dehra Dun Rd) Post Main post office (Ghat Rd; h10am-4pm MonFri, 10am-1pm Sat) Near Triveni Ghat.

S HTAR O P PAKHAND ING UT SH R I SOHPI K P IENSGH

location with a spacious terrace and big menu including crepes and ice-cold lassis.

jewellery and Tibetan singing bowls, though there are also plenty of stalls around Lakshman Jhula. Many stalls sell rudraksh mala (the strings of beads used in puja), made from the nuts of the rudraksh tree, which originally grew where Shiva’s tears fell. Beads with mukhi (diﬀerent faces) confer various blessings on the wearer. If you need outdoor gear, your best bet is

424

Post office (Swarg Ashram; h10am-4pm MonFri, 10am-1pm Sat) Tourist Information Uttarakhand Tourism office (%2430209; Dhalwala Bypass Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Inconveniently located out on the road to Haridwar, it’s in the same building as the GMVN Yatra office. It has a few brochures and can book tours.

8 Getting There & Away

UT TAR AKHAND

Bus There are regular buses to Haridwar and Dehra Dun; for Mussoorie change at Dehra Dun. Buses run north to pilgrimage centres during the yatra season (April to November), and to Joshimath and Uttarkashi year-round. See the table below for details. Private deluxe buses to Delhi (₹350, seven hours) leave from Kailash Gate, just south of Ram Jhula, at 1.30pm and 9.30pm. There’s also one direct overnight bus daily from Rishikesh to Dharamsala (₹1100) at 4pm. Private night buses to Jaipur (seat/sleeper ₹700/900, 13 hours), Agra (₹600/700, 12 hours) and Pushkar (₹700/900, 16 hours) can be booked at travel agents in Lakshman Jhula, Swarg Ashram and High Bank, but they leave from Haridwar (see p 415). Share Jeeps & Taxi Share jeeps leave, when overfull, from the corner of Dehra Dun Rd and Dhalwala Bypass Rd, to Uttarkashi (₹180, five hours) and Joshimath (₹250, eight hours), mostly early in the morning, starting from 4am. From the taxi stand near the main bus stand, oﬃcial taxi rates are: Haridwar (₹500), Dehra Dun (₹650, 1½ hours) and Uttarkashi (for Gangotri; ₹2000, seven hours).

There are also taxi stands at Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula (west bank), charging ₹550 to Haridwar, ₹800 to Dehra Dun, ₹2300 to Uttarkarshi and ₹3500 to Joshimath. Although these rates are fixed, on long-distance trips you can usually get a cheaper rate by asking around at travel agents and guesthouses. Vikrams charge ₹300 to make the trip to Haridwar. Train Bookings can be made at the reservation oﬃce (h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) at the train station, or at travel agents around Lakshman Jhula and Swarg Ashram (for a fee). Only a handful of slow trains run from Rishikesh to Haridwar, so it’s usually better to go by bus or taxi.

8 Getting Around

Shared vikrams run from the downtown Ghat Rd junction up past Ram Jhula (₹10 per person) and the High Bank turn-oﬀ to Lakshman Jhula. To hire the entire vikram from downtown to Ram Jhula should cost ₹80, and from Ram Jhula to High Bank or Lakshman Jhula is ₹40. To get to the eastern bank of the Ganges you either need to walk across one of the suspension bridges or take the ferry (one way/return ₹10/15; h7.30am-6.45pm) from Ram Jhula. On the eastern bank of the Ganges, taxis and share jeeps hang around to take passengers to waterfalls and Neelkantha temple, but it’s a 16km trip by road to get from one side of the river to the other. Motorcycles (Enfields and Yamahas) and mopeds can be hired for ₹300 to ₹600 a day around the Lakshman Jhula area. There are no specific shops – you just hire from private owners – so there’s no insurance; ask around at guesthouses or look for rental signs.

BUSES FROM RISHIKESH The following buses depart from the main bus stand (A) or the yatra bus stand (B). The latter leave when full. DESTINATION

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

Dehra Dun (A)

1½

half-hourly

Delhi (A)

167/265 ordinary/deluxe

half-hourly

Gangotri (B)

250

btwn 4am & 7am or 9am

Haridwar (A)

half-hourly

Joshimath (B)

230

btwn 4am & 7am or 9am

Kedarnath (B)

210

btwn 4am & 7am or 9am

Yamnotri (B)

230

btwn 3am & 7am

Uttarkashi (B)

150

btwn 3am & 12pm

FREQUENCY

Uttarkashi

Garhwal Temple Treks

% 01374 / POP 16,220 / ELEV 1158M

GANGOTRI TEMPLE & GAUMUKH GLACIER TREK

Monal Guest House HOTEL $ (%222270; www.monaluttarkashi.com; Kot Bungalow Rd; s/d/q/ste from ₹400/500/1350/1500; i)

Off the Gangotri road 3km north of town, about 100m from the office that issues permits to Gamukh, this hillside hotel feels like a large comfortable house with lean, airy rooms, a big-windowed restaurant and peaceful garden setting.

Hotel Govind Palace HOTEL $ (%223815; near bus stand; s/d from ₹ 200/300)

One of the best value choices if you’ve got to catch an early morning bus. It’s got good beds, hot showers, TVs and helpful management.

Shangri-La Restaurant MULTICUISINE $ (mains ₹30-125; h9am-9pm) In the main ba-

zaar, this restaurant has the most diverse menu in Uttarkashi: pizza, veggie burgers and banana pancakes as well as Indian and Tibetan food.

Buses depart in the morning for Gangotri (₹90, six hours), Haridwar (₹175, eight hours, at 7am), and Dehradun (₹190, nine hours) via Rishikesh (₹160, seven hours). There are buses to Hanuman Chatti, for Yamunotri Temple, at 7.45am and 10am (₹115, seven hours), and multiple services to Sangam Chatti, for Dodi Tal, until 3pm (₹10, one hour).

% 01377 / ELEV 3042M

In a remote setting at an altitude of 3042m, Gangotri temple is one of the holiest places in India. Near the source of the Ganges (known as the Bhagirathi until it reaches Deoprayag), the shrine is dedicated to the origin of Hinduism’s most sacred river – nearby is the rock on which Shiva is said to have received the flowing waters in his matted locks. Erected by Gorkha commander Amar Singh Thapa in the 18th century, the temple – for a site of such significance – is surprisingly underwhelming. Unless you’re a devout Hindu, to get a real sense of awe for the place you’ll probably have to trek from Gangotri to the true source of the river, at Gaumukh, 18km upstream. There, the water flows out of Gangotri Glacier beneath the soaring west face of Baghirathi Parvat (6856m), with the peak of Shivling (the 6543m ‘Indian Matterhorn’) towering to the south. Don’t be daunted by the trek – the trail rises gradually and is totally solid. Fourteen kilometres (four to six hours) up the trail, at Bhojbasa (3790m), there’s a GMVN Tourist Bungalow (dorm beds ₹300) and other basic lodging; Gaumukh is 4km (1½ hours) past that. On clear days, the best time to visit the source is early-to-mid-afternoon, when it’s out of the shadows. Porters (₹500 each way) and horses (one way/return ₹850/1250) can be hired in Gangotri. More ambitious hikers with their own gear often continue to the gorgeous meadow at Tapovan, 6km beyond Gaumukh. Before trekking to Gaumaukh, you must get a permit from the District Forest Office (%222444), 3km north of the Uttarkashi bus stand. It’s valid for two days and costs ₹150/600 per Indian/foreigner (then ₹50/250 for each extra day). Access to Gaumukh is limited to 150 people per day. Bring a copy of your passport ID page and visa. Gangotri village has plenty of guesthouses, ashrams and dharamsalas charging ₹300 or less per room. There’s also a

GMVN Tourist Bungalow (%22221; dm ₹150, d ₹400-900). When hungry, follow the Indian families to the Hotel Gangaputra Restaurant (mains ₹ 45-100; h7am-11pm), which is

busy for a good reason.

8 TAR AKHAND U UT 8 T TA R K A S H I

Uttarkashi, 155km from Rishikesh and the largest town in northern Garhwal, is a major stop on the road to Gangotri Temple and the Gaumukh Glacier trek, so it’s an obvious place to break your journey and stock up on supplies at the local market. Guides and porters can also be arranged here. There’s a State Bank of India ATM in the market. The town is probably best known for the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (%222123; www.nimindia.net; h10am-5pm), which trains many of the guides running trekking and mountaineering outfits in India. The centre has a museum and outdoor climbing wall. Basic and advanced mountaineering and adventure courses are open to all – check the website for details and admission information. Across the river from the main market. Uttarkashi also hosts the annual Makar Sakranti festival in January. There are plenty of hotels and dhabas (snack bars) around the bus stand and in the nearby market.

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Buses run from Gangotri to Uttarkashi (₹90, six hours) and, during peak season, to Rishikesh (₹250, 12 hours). Share jeeps (₹150) also run between Gangotri and Uttarkashi. YAMUNOTRI TEMPLE TREK ELEV 3185M

UT TAR AKHAND

Yamunotri Temple is tucked in a tight gorge close to the source of the Yamuna, Hinduism’s second most sacred river after the Ganges. For pilgrims, Yamunotri is the least visited and so least developed of the char dham temples, but once you get to the trailhead it’s an easy trek in. The 5km, two-hour hike begins where the road ends at Janki Chatti, 6km beyond the village of Hanuman Chatti (2400m). At Yamunotri Temple there are several hot springs where you can take a dip, and others where pilgrims cook potatoes and rice as prasad. One kilometre beyond the temple, the Yamuna River spills from a frozen lake of ice and glaciers on the Kalinda Parvat mountain at an altitude of 4421m, but this is a very tough climb that requires mountaineering skills. Across the river from Janki Chatti is the pretty village of Kharsali, which is worth a stroll if you’ve got the time. Accommodation is available at basic guesthouses or the GMVN tourist lodges (www.gmvnl.com) in Yamunotri, Janki Chatti and Hanuman Chatti. Buses only go as far as Hanuman Chatti, where you need to catch a share jeep to Janki Chatti (₹30). During peak yatra season buses run from Dehra Dun, Mussoorie and Rishikesh to Hanuman Chatti, but the most frequent transport services originate in Barkot. From Janki Chatti, share jeeps go to Barkot (₹60, two hours); from Hanuman Chatti, buses go to Barkot (₹50, 2½ hours)

and Uttarkashi (₹115, seven hours) for those heading to Gangotri. HAR-KI-DUN VALLEY TREK

The wonderfully remote Har-ki-Dun (3510m) is a botanical paradise criss-crossed by glacial streams and surrounded by pristine forests and snowy peaks. The area is preserved as Govind Wildlife Sanctuary & National

Park (Indian/foreigner up to 3 days ₹50/350, subsequent days ₹20/175). You might be lucky

enough to glimpse the elusive snow leopard above 3500m. The trail begins at Sankri (also called Saur), and there are GMVN Tourist Bungalows (dm/d ₹150/450) at Sankri, Taluka and Osla, but you have to stay in a Forest Department rest house or camp in the valley itself. It’s a 38km hike to Har-ki-Dun, which takes three days – or two days if you take a share jeep to Taluka. A side trip to Jamdar Glacier takes another day. The trek can be busy during June and October. To get to Sankri, take a bus or a share jeep from Gandhi Chowk in Mussoorie. If you cannot find a bus or share jeep going all the way, go as far as you can and then catch other buses or share jeeps. KEDARNATH TEMPLE TREK % 01364 / ELEV 3584M

Kedarnath is revered as the source of the Mandakini River, but this magnificent temple is primarily dedicated to the hump that Shiva (who had taken the form of a bull) left behind when he dove into the ground to escape the Pandavas. Other portions of Shiva’s body are worshipped at the other four Panch Kedar shrines, which are hard to reach but can be visited: the arms at Tungnath; the face at Rudranath; the navel at Madmaheshwar; and the hair at Kalpeshwar. The actual source of the Mandakini River is 12km past Kedarnath.

THE CHAR DHAM The char dham of Garhwal refers to the four ancient temples that mark the spiritual sources of four sacred rivers: the Yamuna (Yamunotri), the Ganges (Gangotri), the Mandakini (Kedarnath) and the Alaknanda (Badrinath). Every year during the yatra (pilgrimage) season from April to November, hundreds of thousands of dedicated Hindu pilgrims make these important treks – the exact dates the temples are open are announced each year by local priests. Religious tourism is big business and numerous buses, share jeeps, porters, ponies and palanquins are on hand for transport, along with a well-established network of budget guesthouses, ashrams and government rest houses. As a result, getting to these temples is easy enough without the need for a guide or carrying supplies. Only Gangotri and Badrinath temples can be visited without having to undertake a trek.

Tourist Bungalow (%269202; dm ₹200, d ₹600-990). Stalls store luggage, and porters

and ponies can be hired. The wide, paved trail to the temple is lined with dhabas and chai stalls. There is more pilgrim accommodation available near the temple, including the GMVN Tourist Bungalow (%263218; dm ₹200, d ₹640-800).

Buses run from Gaurikund to Rishikesh (₹190, 12 hours), or you can use share jeeps to make the same journey. Get oﬀ at Rudraprayag for connections to Joshimath, Badrinath and the eastern Kumaon district.

Joshimath % 01389 / POP 13,202 / ELEV 1845M

As the gateway to Badrinath Temple and Hem Kund, Joshimath sees a steady stream of Hindu and Sikh pilgrims from May to October. And as the base for the Valley of Flowers, the Kuari Pass and Nanda Devi treks, and Auli ski resort, it attracts adventure travellers year-round. Reached from Rishikesh by a hair-raising mountain road that hugs steep-sided valleys for the final few hours, Joshimath is a ramshackle two-street town and a rather ugly administrative centre full of rusting rooftops, erratic power supply and limited places to eat. Although the mountain views are lost from the town itself, it’s only a short cable-car ride from here to magnificent views of Nanda Devi.

Activities

Trekking

Kuari Pass and Nanda Devi are two of the most popular treks from Joshimath. You need a permit and a registered guide to undertake these treks. There are three excellent operators in town who can organise everything.

Adventure Trekking OUTDOOR ADVENTURE (%9837937948; www.thehimalayanadventures. com; Main Bazaar) Treks of anything from

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two to 10 days can be arranged here for around US$45 per person per day, as well as white-water rafting, skiing and mountain climbing. The owner, Santosh, is helpful and runs a guesthouse on the way up to Auli (r ₹1000 to ₹2000).

Eskimo Adventures OUTDOOR ADVENTURE (%222630; eskimoadventures@rediffmail.com)

Offers treks and rock-climbing expeditions from ₹1500 per day, and equipment rental (for trekking and skiing), as well as whitewater rafting trips on the Ganges.

Himalayan Snow Runner OUTDOOR ADVENTURE (%9412082247; www.himalayansnowrunner.com)

Recommended outfit for trekking (from ₹1900 per day), skiing and adventure activities. The owner, Ajay, also takes cultural tours to Bhotia and Garhwali villages, and runs a guesthouse in his home in Mawari village, 5km from Joshimath (d ₹1060).

4 Sleeping & Eating There are lots of cheap lodgings and a few hotels scattered around town. Joshimath’s trekking outfits also operate upmarket homestay-style guesthouses that are worth considering. Hotel New Kamal HOTEL (%221891; r ₹300) Small and clean with

bucket hot water and TV, one of the better cheapies in the town center. Hotel Snow Crest HOTEL $$ (%222344; www.snowcrest.co.in; d ₹1750) A few

steps up the road to the Auli ropeway, it’s clean and cosy but very overpriced. Rates are usually reduced by 40% (except in May and June).

Hotel Kamet HOTEL $ (%222155; d ₹200-900) Decent enough cen-

tral budget option, but check a few rooms to find the least worn. There’s a new, modern annexe in the back with rooms from ₹1000.

There are several dhabas in the main bazaar, all serving similar vegetarian thalis and dosas from ₹20 to ₹90.

8 Information

There’s a GMVN Tourist Oﬃce (%222181; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) located just north of the town (follow the Tourist Rest House sign oﬀ Upper Bazaar Rd), and there’s a State Bank of India

ACTAR T I V IAKHAND TIES UT JAC O ST H I VI IMTAT I E SH

The temple was originally built in the 8th century by Guru Shankara, who is buried behind the shrine. The surrounding scenery is superb, but Kedarnath attracts 100,000 pilgrims every year, which means plenty of people, noise and litter. The site is so auspicious that pilgrims used to throw themselves from one of the cliﬀs behind the temple in the hope of instantly attaining moksha (liberation). The tough 14km uphill trek to the temple (3584m) takes six hours on foot (five hours on a pony) and begins at Gaurikund, which has basic accommodation and a GMVN

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ATM that accepts foreign cards. Tour companies also have internet services.

8 Getting There & Away

UT TAR AKHAND

Although the main road up to Joshimath is maintained by the Indian army, and a hydroelectric plant on the way to Badrinath has improved that road, the area around Joshimath is inevitably prone to landslides, particularly in the rainy season from mid-June to the end of August. Buses run to Badrinath (₹50, two hours) at 6.30am, 9am, 11.00am, 2pm and 4.00pm, departing from the Badrinath bus stand at the far end of Upper Bazar Rd. Take the same buses to Govindghat (₹25, one hour), which is the start of the treks to the wonderful Valley of Flowers and dramatic Hem Kund. Share jeeps (₹60) do the same trip, departing from the jeep stand in the same spot. Hiring the whole jeep costs ₹600. Buses run from Joshimath to Rishikesh (₹230, 10 hours) and Haridwar (₹250, 11½ hours) about every hour between 4am and 7am. They leave from outside the tiny GMOU booth (Upper Bazaar Rd; h4am-8pm), where you can also book tickets. During yatra season you can also catch an 8am bus directly to Gaurikund (₹185, 12 hours) for Kedarnath Temple. To get to the eastern Kumaon region take any Rishikesh bus to Karnaprayag (₹75, 3½ hours), from where local buses and share jeeps can take you along the beautiful road – that often feels like a charming country lane – towards Kausani, Bageshwar and Almora. You may have to change buses at Gwaldam (₹65, 3½ hours), to get to where you’re going.

Around Joshimath AULI

% 01389 / ELEV 3019M

Rising above Joshimath, 14km by road – and only 4km by the gondola-style cable car – Auli is India’s premier ski resort. But you don’t have to visit in winter to do some hiking and enjoy the awesome views of Nanda Devi (India’s highest peak) from the top of the cable-car station. As a ski resort, Auli is hardly spectacular, with gentle 5km-long slopes, one 500m rope tow (₹100 per trip) that runs beside the main slope, and an 800m chairlift (₹200) that connects the upper and lower slopes. The snow is consistently good, though, and the setting is superb. The season runs from January to March and equipment hire and instruction can be arranged here or in Joshimath. The state-of-the-art cable car (return ₹500; hevery 20min 8am-6.50pm), India’s longest, links Joshimath to the upper slopes

above Auli. There’s a cafe, of sorts, at the top, serving hot chai and tomato soup. There are just two places to stay at Auli and both hire out ski equipment and provide ski lessons. The Cliff Top Club Resort (%223217, in Delhi 011-25616679; www.nivalink.com/cliﬀtop; studio ₹4500, ste ₹7500, f ₹9500) wouldn’t look

out of place in the Swiss Alps, with its solid timber interior finish, cosy atmosphere and spacious rooms, some with views of Nanda Devi. Meals and all-inclusive ski packages are available. If on a tighter budget, stay at the perfectly acceptable GMVN Tourist Rest House

(%223208; www.gmvnl.com; dm ₹250, huts ₹2500, d ₹3000) at the start of the chairlift.

Valley of Flowers & Hem Kund Trek British mountaineer Frank Smythe stumbled upon the Valley of Flowers in 1931. ‘In all my mountain wandering,’ he wrote, ‘I have not seen a more beautiful valley where the human spirit may find repose.’ The bugyals (high-altitude meadows) of tall wildflowers are a glorious sight on a sunny day, rippling in the breeze, and framed by mighty 6000m mountains that have glaciers and snow decorating their peaks all year. The 300 species of flowers make the valley a unique and valuable pharmaceutical resource that may soon be a World Heritage Site. Unfortunately, most flowers bloom during the monsoon season in July and August, when the rains make access diﬃcult and hazardous. There’s a widespread misconception that the valley isn’t worth visiting outside of peak flower season, but even without its technicolour carpet it’s still ridiculously beautiful. And you may find you have it all to yourself. To reach the 87-sq-km Valley of Flowers

National Park (Indian/foreigner up to 3 days ₹40/600, subsequent days ₹20/175; h6am-6pm May-Oct, last entry 3pm) requires a full-day trek

from Govindghat to the village of Ghangaria, less than 1km from the park. The fabled valley begins 2km uphill from the ticket office, and continues for another 5km. Tracks are easy to follow. No overnight stay is permitted here (or at Hem Kund) so you must stay in Ghangaria. A tougher trek from Ghangaria involves joining the hundreds of Sikh pilgrims toiling up to the 4300m Hem Kund, the sacred

lake surrounded by seven peaks where Sikh guru Gobind Singh is believed to have meditated in a previous life. The pilgrim season runs from around 1 June to 1 October. Ponies (₹350) are available if you prefer to ride up the 6km zigzag track. Also called Govinddham, Ghangaria is a one-street village in a wonderful deodar forest with a busy market, a handful of budget hotels and mediocre restaurants, hundreds of ponies, a pharmacy and a doctor. Water and electricity supplies are erratic.

Ghangaria is a scenic but strenuous 14km uphill trek from Govindghat, which takes four to seven hours depending on your pace. You can quicken the trip and help the local economy by hiring a pony (₹437) through the Eco Development Committee oﬃce at the bridge over the Alaknanda River. The return trip takes four to five hours. You don’t need to carry food because there are dhabas and drink stalls along the way serving the army of pilgrims heading to Hem Kund. Despite the distances and grades of the trails, treks to Ghangaria, the Valley of Flowers and Hem Kund are often undertaken by small children and people with weak legs or lungs – they ride up in a wicker chair hauled on the back of a kandi man (from ₹400) or reclining in a dandi litter (from ₹5000), carried on the shoulders of four men like the royalty of old. At Govindghat you can stay at the huge gurdwara (payment by donation), where VIP rooms are basic, or the Hotel Bhagat (%01381-225226; d ₹600), up on the main road between Joshimath and Badrinath, with very clean rooms and meals available. All buses and share jeeps between Joshimath and Badrinath stop in Govindghat, so you can easily find transport travelling in either direction, though this trickles oﬀ later in the day and stops dead at night.

Badrinath & Mana Village % 01381 / ELEV 3133M

Basking in a superb setting in the shadow of snow-topped Nilkantha, Badrinath Temple appears almost lost in the tatty village that surrounds it. Sacred to Lord Vishnu, this vividly painted temple is the most easily accessible and popular of the char dham temples. It was founded by Guru Shankara in the 8th century, but the current structure

4 Sleeping & Eating Badrinath can easily be visited in a day from Joshimath if you get an early start, but it’s a serene place to spend the night and there are plenty of places to stay and eat here during the pilgrimage season. Budget guesthouses are generally discounted to ₹200 a room outside the short peak season of May and June. Hotel Charan Paduka HOTEL $ (%9411554098; r ₹150) Right behind the bus

stand, it’s friendly and clean enough for the price, with bucket hot water.

Jagirdar Guest House HOTEL (%9457646148; r ₹500) In a stone building

on the temple side of the river, this is a good place in a quiet spot out of the fray of pilgrims.

Hotel Snow Crest HOTEL $$$ (%9412082465; www.snowcrest.co.in; r ₹20006000) Overpriced but modern and clean,

rooms have heaters, TVs and geysers.

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S LTAR E E PAKHAND I N G & E ATB UT SILANEDGERPI N I NAT G H& &E AT M AI NNGA V I L L A G E

Hotel Pritam (%0199-1322031; s/d ₹200/300) is one of the better budget places to stay. Hotel Priya (d from ₹200) is good, too.

is much more recent. Below the temple are hot springs that reach a scalding 40°C and serve as a laundry for locals. A scenic 3km walk beyond Badrinath along the Alaknanda River (cross over to the temple side to pick up the path), past fields divided by dry-stone walls, leads to tiny but charismatic Mana Village. The village is crammed with narrow stone laneways and traditional houses of varying designs – some have slate walls and roofs while others are wooden with cute balconies. You can wander around and watch the village ladies knitting colourful jerseys or hauling loads of fodder while the men tend goats or play cards or carom billiards. Carpets (₹200 for a small square, ₹2000 for bigger ones), blankets, jerseys, hats and gloves are all on sale. Just outside the village in a small cave is the tiny, 5000-year-old Vyas Temple. Nearby is Bhima’s Rock, a natural rock arch over a river that is said to have been made by Bhima, strongest of the Pandava brothers, whose tale is told in the Mahabharata. The 4km hike along the Alaknanda to the 145m Vasudhara Waterfall has a great reward-to-eﬀort ratio, with views up the valley of the Badrinath massif jutting skyward like a giant fang. The villagers migrate to somewhere warmer and less remote – usually Joshimath – between November and April. From the large bus station at the entrance to Badrinath, buses run to Govindghat, Joshimath and Gaurikund (for Kedarnath) during yatra season, but check scheduled departure times or you may end up stranded.

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Brahma Kamal INDIAN $ (meals ₹30-80) Directly opposite the temple

overlooking the river, this is a popular restaurant.

Kuari Pass Trek

UT TAR AKHAND

Also known as the Curzon Trail (though Lord Curzon’s party abandoned its attempt on the pass following an attack of wild bees), the trek over the Kuari Pass (3640m) was popular in the Raj era. It’s still one of Uttarakhand’s finest and most accessible treks, affording breathtaking views of the snow-clad peaks around Nanda Devi – India’s highest mountain – while passing through the outer sanctuary of Nanda Devi National Park. The trailhead is at Auli and the 75km trek to Ghat past lakes, waterfalls, forests, meadows and small villages takes five days, though it’s possible to do a shorter version that finishes in Tapovan in three days. A tent, guide, permit and your own food supplies are necessary, all of which can be organised easily in Joshimath. Auli can be reached by bus or cable car from Joshimath. From Ghat, share jeeps (₹40, 1½ hours) go to Nandaprayag, and from there buses run to Joshimath or southwest to Rishikesh and Haridwar. For other trekking options within the fabulous Nanda Devi, you must go with a registered guiding company. Check details with trekking outfitters in Joshimath or Rishikesh.

Corbett Tiger Reserve % 05947 / ELEV 400-1210M

This famous reserve (h15 Nov-15 Jun, Jhirna zone open year-round) was established in 1936

as India’s first national park. It’s named for legendary tiger hunter Jim Corbett (1875– 1955), who put Kumaon on the map with his book The Man-Eaters of Kumaon. The British hunter was greatly revered by local people for shooting tigers that had developed a taste for human flesh, but he eventually shot more wildlife with his camera than with his gun. The reserve Jim Corbett established inspired the India-wide Project Tiger program, which started in 1973 and saw the creation of 22 other reserves. Tiger sightings take some luck as the 175 or so tigers in the reserve are neither baited nor tracked. Your best chance of spotting one is late in the season (April to

mid-June), when the forest cover is low and animals come out in search of water. Notwithstanding tiger sightings, few serious wildlife enthusiasts will leave disappointed, as the 1318-sq-km park has a variety of wildlife and birdlife in grassland, sal forest and river habitats, and a beautiful location in the foothills of the Himalaya on the Ramganga River. Commonly seen wildlife include wild elephants (200 to 300 live in the reserve), sloth bears, langur monkeys (black face, long tail), rhesus macaques (red face and backside), peacocks, schools of otters and several types of deer including chital (spotted deer), sambars, hog deer and barking deer. You might also see leopards, mugger crocodiles, gharials, monitor lizards, wild boars and jackals. The Ramganga Reservoir attracts large numbers of migrating birds, especially from mid-December to the end of March, and over 600 species have been spotted here. The reception centre (%251489; www .corbettnationalpark.in; Ranikhet Rd; h6am-4pm), where you must get your park entry permit and can sign up for a day trip or overnight safari, is located on the main road in the town of Ramnagar, almost opposite the bus stand. From 15 November to 15 June the entry fee (₹200/900 per Indian/foreigner) covers three days and grants access to the entire park. Single-day permits (valid for four hours) are available for every zone except Dikhala (₹100/450 per Indian/foreigner). On top of that, there’s the jeep vehicle fee (₹500/1500 per Indian/foreigner overnight, ₹250/500 for a single day). Of Corbett’s five zones – Bijrani, Dhikala, Domunda, Jhirna and Sonanadi – Dhikala is the highlight of the park. Forty-nine kilometres northwest of Ramnagar and deep inside the reserve, this is the designated core area, where the highest concentration of the animals you probably hope to see are found. It’s only open from 15 November to 15 June to overnight guests or as part of a one-day tour booked through the reception centre. Jhirna, in the southern part of the reserve, is the only zone that remains open all year. Short jeep safaris can be organised in Ramnagar, but your chances of seeing serious megafauna there are iﬀy. In certain years, depending on conditions, some of the other zones open in October, but the only way to find out is to contact the reception centre. Two-hour elephant rides (₹300/1000 per Indian/foreigner) are available only at Dhikala and Bijrani, at 6am and 4pm on a firstcome, first-served basis.

Be sure to bring binoculars (you can hire them at park gates) and plenty of mosquito repellent and mineral water. If you’re interested in the life of Jim Corbett, his former house at Kaladhungi, 26km southeast of Ramnagar, is now a museum (admission ₹50; h8am-5pm).

T Tours

4 Sleeping & Eating For serious wildlife viewing, Dhikala – deep inside the reserve – is the best place to stay, though the prices for foreigners are exorbitant. Book through the reception centre in Ramnagar at least one month in advance, except where indicated. The town of Ramnagar has budget accommodation, while upmarket resorts are strung out along the road skirting the eastern side of the park between Dhikuli and Dhangarhi Gate. DHIKALA

Easily the cheapest beds in the park are at Log Huts (dm Indian/foreigner ₹200/400), resembling 3AC train sleepers, with 24 basic beds (no bedding supplied). Tourist Hutments (Indian/foreigner ₹1250/2500) oﬀer the best value accommodation in Dhikala and sleep up to six people. Dhikala has a couple of restaurants serving vegetarian food. No alcohol is allowed in the park. The New Forest Rest House (r ₹1250/ 2500), three cabins (₹1250/2500) and the VIP Old Forest Rest House (r ₹1500/3000 or ₹2500/5000) can all be booked at the reception centre in Ramnagar. Annexe (r ₹1000/2000) can be booked through the Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board (UTDB; %011-23319835) in Delhi.

Small rest houses in the park are at Kanda, Sultan Mailini and Jhirna (₹600/1400 per Indian/foreigner), Lohachaur, Halduparao, Morghatti, Sendhikal, Mudiapani, Rathuadhab, Pakhro and Dhela (₹400/800). The following are some other places to stay. Bijrani Rest House HOTEL (s/d Indian ₹500/1000, foreigner ₹1250/2500)

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The first place in from Amdanda Gate; meals and elephant rides available.

Gairal Rest House HOTEL $$$ (r Indian/foreigner from ₹1250/2500) On the

Ramnagar River, accessed from Dhangarhi Gate; meals available.

Sarapduli Rest House HOTEL (r Indian/foreigner ₹2000/4000) Also has a

$$$

good location in the reserve’s core area. Khinnanauli Rest House HOTEL $$$ (r Indian/foreigner ₹5000/12000) VIP lodging

near Dhikala, deep in the reserve.

RAMNAGAR

A busy, unappealing town, Ramnagar has plenty of facilities, including internet cafes (₹30 per hr), ATMs (State Bank of India ATM at the train station, and a Bank of Baroda ATM on Ranikhet Rd) and transport connections – mostly along Ranikhet Rd.

oCorbett Motel

HOTEL $

(%9837468933; karansafaris@yahoo.co.in; tent ₹400, d/tr ₹500/600) Set in a beautiful mango or-

chard only a few hundred metres from the train station, Ramnagar’s best budget accommodation is a world away from the traﬃcclogged centre and oﬀers exceptional service and hospitality. You can stay in sturdy tents or basic but spotless rooms, and the restaurant serves fine food. The owner, Karan, is a wellknown local naturalist and can organise jeep safaris into the park. Call ahead for a pick-up.

Krishna Nidhi Corbett Inn HOTEL $$ (%251225; Ranikhet Rd; dm ₹300, d with/without AC ₹1600/600; a) Clean, spacious rooms

with balconies or verandas make this a good midrange option at the northern end of Ramnagar’s main street. The manager can help organise safaris.

Hotel Anand HOTEL $ (%254385; Ranikhet Rd; s/d ₹300/500) A noisy

budget option located about 100m from the bus stand, Anand has average rooms with bucket hot water and TV – however many of the rooms only have windows onto a corridor. Its Delhi Darbar Restaurant (mains

TOTAR U R SAKHAND C UT TO OU RR B SE T T T I G E R R E S E R V E

The reception centre in Ramnagar runs daily bus tours (Indian/foreigner ₹1000/2000) to Dhikala at 5.30am and 12pm. Four-wheel drives or the smaller Maruti Gypsies can be hired at the reception centre in Ramnagar, or through your accommodation or a tour agency. The jeep owners have formed a union, so in theory the rates are fixed (on a per jeep basis, carrying up to six people). Half-day safaris (leaving in the morning and afternoon) should cost ₹1000 to Bijrani, ₹1000 to Jhirna, or ₹1500 to Domunda, excluding the entry fees for you and your guide. Full-day safaris cost double. Trips to Dhikala cost ₹2500. Check prices at the reception centre and at your hotel before hiring a jeep.

ELSEWHERE IN THE RESERVE

432

₹50-100; h7am-11pm) is one of the cleanest,

quietest places to eat in town, with a typical Indian menu plus pizzas.

NORTH OF RAMNAGAR

UT TAR AKHAND

Half a dozen upmarket African-style safari resorts are strung along the Ramnagar-Ranikhet road that runs along the reserve’s eastern boundary. Most are around a settlement called Dhikuli – not to be confused with Dhikala! When most of the reserve is closed (15 June to 15 November), discounts of up to 50% are oﬀered. Rates given here are for a room only, but most have packages that include meals and safaris. All places have resident naturalists, recreational facilities, restaurants and bars. Tiger Camp HOTEL $$$ (%2551963; www.tiger-camp.com; r ₹2050/2500, cottages ₹3050; a) This intimate, excellent-

value resort is nestled in a shady jungle-style garden by the Kosi River, 8km from Ramnagar. Cosy cottages and bungalows have modern facilities, and nature walks and village tours are oﬀered.

Infinity Resorts HOTEL $$$ (%251279; www.infinityresorts.com; Dhikuli; s/d incl breakfast from ₹6000/8000; as) The most im-

pressive of the resorts in this area, Infinity has luxurious rooms, a roundhouse with restaurant and bar, and a swimming pool in a lovely garden backing onto the Kosi River (where you can see hordes of golden mahseer fish). Corbett Hideaway HOTEL $$$ (%284132; www.corbetthideaway.com; Dhikuli; cottages ₹11,000-22,000; as) The luxurious

ochre cottages oﬀer privacy, the riverside garden is relaxing, and there’s a poolside bar and thatched restaurant at this quality resort, 12km north of Ramnagar.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses run almost hourly from Ramnagar to Delhi (₹150, seven hours), Haridwar (₹113, six hours) and Dehra Dun (₹150, seven hours). For Nainital (₹71, 3½ hours) there are four direct buses, or take one to Kaladhungi and change there. Buses to Ranikhet (₹77, 4½ hours) leave every couple of hours in the morning, and some continue to Almora. Frequent buses run to Haldwani (₹35, two hours). Ramnagar train station is 1.5km south of the main reception centre. The nightly Corbett Park Link Express (sleeper/2AC ₹107/417) leaves Delhi at 10.40pm, arriving in Ramnagar at 4.55am. The return trip leaves Ramnagar at 9.40pm, arriving in Old Delhi at 4.15am. For other destinations, change at Moradabad.

Nainital % 05942 / POP 39,840 / ELEV 1938M

Crowded around a deep, green volcanic lake, Nainital is Kumaon’s largest town and favourite hill resort. It occupies a steep forested valley around the namesake lake Naini and was founded by homesick Brits reminded of the Cumbrian Lake District. Disaster struck here in December 1880, when a major landslide buried a hotel and 150 people, creating the memorial recreation ground now known as the Flats. Plenty of hotels are set in the forested hills around the lake, there’s a busy bazaar, and a spider’s web of walking tracks covers the forested hillsides to viewpoints overlooking the distant Himalayan peaks. For travellers, it’s a good place to kick back and relax, eat well, go horse riding or paddling on the lake. In peak seasons – roughly May to mid-July and October – Nainital is packed to the gills with holidaying families and honeymooners, and hotel prices skyrocket. Tallital (Lake’s Foot) is at the southeastern end of the lake where you’ll find the bus stand and the main road heading east towards Bhowali. The 1.5km promenade known as the Mall leads to Mallital (Lake’s Head) at the northwestern end of the lake. Most hotels, guest houses and restaurants are strung out along the Mall between Mallital and Tallital.

1 Sights & Activities Naini Lake

SIGHTSEEING

This pretty lake is Nainital’s centrepiece and is said to be one of the emerald green eyes of Shiva’s wife, Sati (naina is Sanskrit for eye). Naina Devi Temple, rebuilt after the 1880 landslide, is on the precise spot where the eye is believed to have fallen. Nearby is the Jama Masjid and a gurdwara. You can walk around the lake in about an hour – the southern side is more peaceful and has good views of the town. Boatmen will row you around the lake for ₹160 (₹95 one way) in the brightly painted gondola-like boats, or the Nainital Boat Club (Mallital; h10am-4pm) will sail you round for ₹250. Pedal and rowing boats can also be hired for ₹100 per hour. Snow View & Cable Car VIEWPOINT A cable car (adult/child return ₹150/100; h8am7pm May & Jun, 10.30am-4pm Jul-Apr) runs up to

the popular Snow View at 2270m, which (on

Tiffin Top & Land’s End

HORSE RIDING,WALKING

A 4km walk west of the lake brings you to Tiﬃn Top (2292m), also called Dorothy’s Seat. From there, it’s a lovely 30-minute walk to Land’s End (2118m) through a forest of oak, deodar and pine. Mangy horses gather west of town on the road to Ramnagar to take you on rides to these spots. A threehour ride costs about ₹490, but you can take shorter rides (eg Tiﬃn Top for ₹70). Touts for these rides will no doubt accost you in Mallital near the ropeway. Nainital Zoo

ZOO

This high-altitude hillside zoo (admission ₹25, with camera ₹25; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) has some large enclosures containing Himalayan animals, Siberian tigers, leopards and lots of pheasant species. It’s a steep 20-minute walk from the Mall or a ₹50 taxi ride. Rock Climbing & Trekking OUTDOOR ADVENTURE The enthusiasts at Nainital Mountaineering Club (%235051; Mallital; per day ₹600) oﬀer

rock-climbing courses on an artificial tower and at the rock-climbing area, a 15m-high rock outcrop to the west of the town. Snout Adventures (%231749; www.snout adventure.co.in; Ashok Cinema Bldg, Mallital) is a

recommended outfit oﬀering treks in the Kumaon and Garhwal mountains (from ₹3000 per day, all inclusive), rock-climbing courses (₹600 per day) and adventure camps. For information on KMVN’s rest houses and trekking packages, visit KMVN Parvat

Tours (%235656; www.kmvn.org; Tallital; h9am7pm).

T Tours Travel agencies along the Mall such as

Hina Tours & Travel (%235860; www.nainital

and Anamika Travels hinatours.com) (%9720180161) oﬀer bus tours of the local

433

lakes and trips to Corbett National Park.

4 Sleeping Nainital is packed with hotels but they fill up fast in peak seasons, making it hard to find a bargain at those times. The prices given below are for the main peak season; virtually all hotels oﬀer around 50% discounts in the low season. The main peak season is generally 1 May to 30 June, and some hotels have a semipeak in October, at Diwali (October/ November) and at Christmas. A few of the following hotels have budgetrange prices in the low season.

oPalace Belvedere

HERITAGE HOTEL $$$

(%237434; www.palacebelvedere.com; Mallital; s/d/ ste from ₹4500/5200/7000; W) Built in 1897,

this was the summer palace of the rajas of Awagarh. Animal skins and old prints adorn the walls and lend a faded Raj-era charm. Rooms are spacious, high-ceilinged, and have a finely-aged kind of soul – there’s something irresistable about them. Downstairs is an elegant dining room/lounge/veranda. You’ll find it oﬀ the Mall.

Hotel City Heart HOTEL $$ (%235228; www.cityhearthotel.netfirms.com; Mallital; d ₹1650-3500) Located oﬀ the Mall, the

rooftop terrace restaurant has fine lake views. Rooms range from small but cute to a fabulous deluxe room with a view. This place discounts more than most and is one of Nainital’s best oﬀ-season bargains, with rooms from ₹700. The eﬀusive owner will gladly play the CD of his band covering tunes by Pink Floyd and Dire Straits.

Traveller’s Paradise HOTEL $$ (%9411107877; www.kmvn.gov.in; Mallital; d ₹1500)

A bit north of the Mall, it’s the details that set this hotel apart from others in its price range. Bedsheets are surprisingly stylish, bathrooms are colorfully tiled, and the big rooms, though not fancy, have chairs and coﬀee tables. It’s run by the aimiable Anu Consul, who spent ten years living in Mexico and knows what it’s like to be on the road.

Evelyn Hotel HOTEL $$ (%235457; www.hotelevelynnainital.com; the Mall, Tallital; d ₹1500-2700, ste ₹3500-5300) This large

Victorian-looking hotel overlooking the lake is quintessential Nainital – charming and slightly eccentric. It’s big, with stairways and terraces cascading down the hillside. It’s a

TOTAR U R SAKHAND N UT TO AU I NRISTA L

clear days) has panoramic Himalayan views, including of Nanda Devi. The ticket oﬃce is at the bottom. At the top you’ll find the usual food, souvenir and carnival stalls, as well as Mountain Magic (rides ₹30-100), an amusement park with kids’ entertainment including bumper cars, trampolines and a flying fox. A highlight of the trip to Snow View is hiking to viewpoints such as Cheena/Naina Peak, 4km away. Local guides may oﬀer to lead you on walks. One such guide, Sunil Kumar (%9411196837), has plenty of experience as a trekker and birdwatcher and can take you on day walks (₹550), or overnight walks where you stay in local villages (₹1400). If you want to get up to Snow View for sunrise, taxis charge ₹180.

434

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UT TAR AKHAND

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bit old-fashioned, but the well-tended rooms have a nice, cosy feel.

5 Eating Nainital has a host of restaurants, mostly along the Mall on the north side of the lake. For cheap eats, head to the food stalls around the Tibetan Market or to the dhabas in Bara Bazar. Embassy INDIAN $$ (The Mall, Mallital; meals ₹80-320; h10.30am-11pm)

With a wood-lined chalet interior and snappily dressed staﬀ, Embassy has been serving up five pages of menu items for over 40 years. For drinks try ‘dancing coﬀee’ or a rosewater lassi. Good terrace for people-watching.

Machan Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (The Mall, Mallital; mains ₹80-350; h10am-4.30pm & 7pm-10.30pm) The jungle-themed decor and

bamboo facade here represent Corbett’s wildlife-spotting towers, while the menu oﬀers

some of Nainital’s best comfort food (pizzas and burgers), along with Indian fare. Watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Sakley’s Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (Mallital; mains ₹60-350; h9am-10pm) A spot-

less restaurant found oﬀ the Mall, serving up a range of unusual global items such as Thai curries, honey chicken, roast lamb, pepper steaks, and plenty of Chinese dishes, pizzas and sizzlers. Desserts include pastries and Black Forest cake.

Sonam Chowmein Corner FAST FOOD $ (The Flats, Mallital; mains ₹20-50; h11am-7pm) In

the covered alley part of the Tibetan Market, this authentic Tibetan dhaba whips up fabulous chow mein and momos (Tibetan dumplings) for the best cheap eats in town.

Cafe de Mall CAFE $$ (The Mall, Tallital; mains ₹50-250; h9am-4pm & 6-10pm) This open-fronted lakeside cafe

halfway along the Mall is a great place for

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breakfast or a cappuccino on the terrace. The menu ranges from fish curry and kali mirch chicken to pizzas and impressive vegetarian sizzlers.

Drinking

Nainital Boat Club BAR (The Mall, Mallital; temp membership men/women/ couples ₹830/415/830; h10am-10pm) This club

is a classic remnant of the Raj-era. Temporary membership is ridiculously steep, but the atmospheric bar – with timber beams, buttoned-up barmen with handlebar moustaches, and an outdoor deck overlooking the lake, is perfect for an afternoon drink. The dress code specifies no shorts or thongs, and signs warn that ‘decorum should be maintained’.

8 Information

Post Main post office (Mallital; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Tourist Information Uttarakhand Tourism office (%235337; The Mall; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

ô #

Naini Lake (Nainital)

Money Bank of Baroda ATM (The Mall, Tallital) Accepts international cards. HDFC Bank (The Mall; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Exchanges cash and travellers cheques; 24-hour ATM. State Bank of India (The Mall, Mallital; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Exchanges major foreign currencies and travellers cheques. ATM accepts international cards.

Internet Access Cyberia (Mallital; per hr ₹25; h10am-9pm)

8 Getting There & Away

Bus For details of buses leaving from the Tallital bus stand, see the table, p 437. Although there are direct buses from Nainital, many more services leave from the transport hubs of Haldwani and Bhowali. From Haldwani, regular buses head to Ramnagar, Delhi and the Nepal border at Banbassa. Haldwani is also a major train terminus. To go north, take a bus or share jeep to Bhowali (₹10, 20 minutes) and catch one of the regular onward buses to Almora, Kausani and Ranikhet. Three daily buses to Ramnagar (₹71, 3½ hours) originating at the Tallital bus stand also pass by the Sukhatal bus stand, northeast of Mallital. Travel agencies sell tickets on private overnight deluxe coaches (with reclining seats) to Delhi (₹250-500, nine hours), which leave from Tallital around 9.30pm. Taxi & Share Jeep From the Kumaon Taxi Union stand in Tallital, taxi drivers charge ₹500 to Kathgodam (1½ hours), ₹1200 to Ramnagar (three hours) and ₹1500 to Almora (three hours) or Ranikhet (two hours). Share jeeps leave when full, and go to Bhowali (₹10, 20 minutes) and Kathgodam/Haldwani (₹60, 1½ hours). Train Kathgodam (35km south of Nainital) is the nearest train station, but Haldwani, one stop further south, is the regional transport hub. The train booking agency (h9am-noon & 2-5pm

435

D RTAR I N KAKHAND ING UT DR N AI N K I TA I NLG

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Medical Services BD Pandey Government Hospital (%235012; Mallital) Located off the Mall.

436

Nainital æ Sights 1 Gurdwara ............................................... D2 2 Jama Masjid ........................................... C2 3 Mountain Magic ...................................... E1 4 Naina Devi Temple ................................ D2 5 Snow View............................................... E1 6 Tiffin Top ................................................ B4

UT TAR AKHAND

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 7 Anamika Travels .....................................E2 8 Hina Tours & Travel............................... B4 9 KMVN Parvat Tours................................F4 10 Nainital Boat Club.................................. A4 11 Nainital Mountaineering Club............... A3 12 Rock Climbing Area............................... A3 13 Snout Adventures.................................. D2 ÿ Sleeping 14 Evelyn Hotel ............................................F3 15 Hotel City Heart ..................................... D2 16 Palace Belvedere ....................................D1 17 Traveller's Paradise................................C1

Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat), next to the Tallital bus stand, has a quota for trains to Dehra Dun, Delhi, Moradabad, Lucknow, Gorakhpur and Kolkata. The daily Ranikhet Express (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹121/339/472) departs Kathgodam at 8.40pm and arrives at Old Delhi station at 4.15am. In the other direction, it departs Delhi at 10.15pm, arriving at Kathgodam at 5.45am.

8 Getting Around

Cycle-rickshaws charge a fixed ₹10 along the Mall, but can only pick up and drop oﬀ at the ticket booths at either end. Taxi rides within town cost ₹80 to ₹200.

Ranikhet % 05966 / POP 19,049 / ELEV 1829M

Ranikhet, home to the Kumaon Regiment and bristling with good-old-fashioned military atmosphere, spreads over rolling green hills with some lovely views over the distant Himalayas. The focus of the town is a busy single-street bazaar area, but you don’t have to walk far along the winding Mall Rd to be immersed in forest and tall English trees. From Sadar Bazaar, the Mall heads 3km south to the army headquarters. A walking path starting by the sports ground provides a pleasant short cut, passing a small pond and the stone Catholic church. From the

ú Eating 18 Embassy .................................................B4 19 Machan Restaurant ...............................A4 20 Sakley's Restaurant ...............................D2 21 Sonam Chowmien Corner.....................D2 Drinking Nainital Boat Club .........................(see 10) Information 22 BD Pandey Government Hospital.........C2 Transport 23 Boat Hire .................................................B4 24 Boat Hire .................................................D2 25 Cycle-rickshaw Ticket Booth ................ F4 26 Cycle-rickshaw Ticket Booth ................A3 27 Horse Stand............................................A3 28 Sukhatal Bus Stand ............................... B1 29 Tallital Bus Stand ................................... F4 Train Booking Agency.................. (see 29)

southern end of the Mall it’s a 1km walk to Jhula Devi Temple, which is festooned with bells. Before you get there you’ll pass the KRC Community Center (%220567; The

Mall; admission free; h8.30am-4pm, closed Wed & Sun), an old church that’s been converted

into a handloom-weaving workshop established for the benefit of army widows.

4 Sleeping & Eating Outside the two peak seasons (generally mid-April to mid-July and 1 October to early November), the prices given below are reduced by 30% to 50%. Dhabas and a few budget hotels can be found in the bazaar. Ranikhet Club HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%226011; The Mall; d ₹7555) For a taste of

Raj nostalgia, look no further than the four classic rooms at this 1860 heritage wooden bungalow. The gentrified army ambience is typified by the members’ bar, billiard room, card-playing rooms, tennis court and stylish restaurant. The Seven Peaks Bar has a colonial feel – dress smartly after 7pm. Hotel Meghdoot HOTEL $$ (%220475; www.hotelmeghdoot.com; The Mall; s ₹800-1100, d ₹1300-1500, ste ₹2000) This big

old hotel, just past the army headquarters, 3km from the bazaar, has some quaint historical touches, a range of clean, spacious rooms,

and a veranda packed with pot plants and greenery. Oﬀ-season rates are a bargain here.

8 Information

8 Getting There & Away

From the KMOU bus stand, at Gandhi Chowk, regular buses run to Almora (₹45, two hours) and to Ramnagar (₹77, 4½ hours) hourly from 6.30am to 2pm. There’s one bus to Nainital at 9.30am (₹77, 2½ hours). From the UP Roadways bus stand at the eastern end of the bazaar, transport runs to Delhi, Haridwar, Karnaprayag, Haldwani, and Kathgodam via Bhowali. Share jeeps leave when full for Almora (₹80, two hours), Nainital (₹100, 1½ hours) and Haldwani (₹80, two hours) from near either of the two bus stands.

Almora % 05962 / POP 32,357 / ELEV 1650M

Clinging to a steep-sided valley, Almora is the sprawling regional capital of Kumaon, first established as a summer capital by the Chand rajas of Kumaon in 1560. A cool climate and mountain views are attractions, but don’t be put oﬀ by the ugly, shambolic main street when you’re first deposited at the bus stand – head one block south to the

Sights & Activities

Nanda Devi Temple

HINDU TEMPLE

The stone Nanda Devi Temple in Lalal Bazaar dates back to the Chand raja era, and is covered in folk-art carvings, some erotic. Every September, the temple hosts the Nanda Devi Fair. Panchachuli Weavers HANDICRAFTS Factory (%232310; admission free; h10am-5pm MonSat) The Panchachuli Weavers Factory, oﬀ

Bageshwar Rd, employs some 300 women to weave woollen shawls. The shop here has a wider range of products than at the small shop in the Mall. Taxis charge ₹150 return to the factory, or you can walk the 3km – follow the continuation of Mall Rd to the northeast and ask for directions. High Adventure TREKKING (%9012354501; www.thehighadventure.com; the Mall) Organises six-day treks to Pindari

Glacier and 10-day treks to Milam Glacier for around ₹1700 per person, per day.

Discover Himalaya TREKKING (%9411346550; bobbyalmora@hotmail.com; the Mall) Also runs trips to Pindari and Milam

Glaciers.

BUSES FROM NAINITAL The following buses leave from the Tallital bus stand. For Kathgodam, take the Haldwani bus. DESTINATION

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

FREQUENCY

Almora

100

7am

Dehra Dun

235-419

8 daily

Delhi

218-430

6 daily

Haldwani

half-hourly

Haridwar

235-419

several early morning

Kathgodam (A)

1½

half-hourly

Rishikesh

270

5am

437

8 TAR AKHAND A UT 8 LMORA

Ranikhet Cyber Cafe (Gandhi Chowk; per hr ₹25; h8am-7.30pm) Near the SBI ATM. State Bank of India (Sadar Bazaar; h10am4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Exchanges travellers cheques but not cash. State Bank of India ATM Just uphill from the bank, this ATM accepts foreign cards. Uttarakhand Tourism office (%220227; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Located above the UP Roadways bus stand.

pedestrian-only cobbled Lalal Bazaar, lined with intricately carved and painted traditional wooden shop facades. It’s a fascinating place to stroll, people-watch and shop. While otherwise not bursting with interest, Almora has some colonial-era buildings, reliable trekking outfits and a couple of community-based weaving enterprises. You’ll often see Westerners floating around, thanks to a hippie subculture of travellers living up around Kasar Devi temple.

438

4 Sleeping Unlike most hill stations, prices here are not seasonal. Hotel Shikhar HOTEL $$ (%230253; www.hotelshikhar.com; The Mall; dm ₹300, d ₹500-1800, ste ₹2500; a) Dominating

UT TAR AKHAND

the centre of town and built to take in the views, this large, boxlike hotel is perched on a hillside and oﬀers a maze of rooms covering all budgets. Expensive rooms aren’t much better than cheaper ones. The hotel also has the reasonable Mount View Restaurant. Kailas International Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ (%230624; jawaharlalsah@india.com; dm ₹150, d ₹250-450) Ramshackle but colourful, Kailas

is run by the elderly Mr Shah, an engaging retired bank manager who will regale you with tales of Almora, temples and his philosophy on life. Staying here is like sleeping in a museum’s attic, though the rooms are basic and a serious mixed bag. The large rooms (such as the ‘Maharaja suite’) at the top are easily the best. The cheapest rooms have common bathrooms. It’s oﬀ the Mall. Bansal Hotel HOTEL $ (%230864; Lalal Bazaar; d ₹300-400) Above

Bansal Cafe in the bustling bazaar, but easily reached from the Mall, this is a fine budget choice with small, tidy rooms (some with TV) and a rooftop terrace.

5 Eating Almora’s speciality sweet is ball mithai (fudge coated in sugar balls), available for ₹5 in sweet shops all along the Mall and bazaar. New Soni Restaurant INDIAN (The Mall; mains ₹25-150; h10.30am-9.30pm)

A popular Sikh-run dhaba serving tasty paneer (unfermented cheese), chicken and mutton dishes, and egg curry.

Glory Restaurant INDIAN (LR Sah Rd; mains ₹35-85; h8.30am-9.30pm)

This long-running family eatery features popular South and North Indian vegetarian and nonvegetarian dishes, including biryanis and lemon chicken. The pizzas are super cheesy.

8 Information

Internet access is available at several places in Lalal Bazaar and the Mall, usually from ₹25 per hour. HDFC (The Mall; h9.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) The ATM accepts foreign cards and the bank changes foreign currencies.

Sify iWay (The Mall; per hr ₹25; h7am-8.30pm) Internet access and train reservations. State Bank of India (The Mall; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) An ATM here accepts foreign cards. Uttarakhand Tourism office (%230180; Upper Mall; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

8 Getting There & Away

The vomit-splattered sides of the buses and jeeps pulling into Almora tell you all you need to know about what the roads are like around here. Buses run from the adjacent UP Roadways and KMOU bus stands on the Mall roughly hourly until 4pm to Ranikhet (₹45, two hours), Kausani (₹47, 2½ hours), Bageshwar (₹80, two hours) and Bhowali (₹45, two hours), near Nainital. Buses to Delhi (₹325, 12 hours) leave at 2pm, 3pm & 4pm. There are early morning buses to Pithoragarh (₹128, five hours) and more run from the Dharanaula bus stand on the Bypass Rd. For Banbassa on the Nepal border, take a bus to Haldwani and change there. There’s a Railway Reservation Centre (h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) at the KMVN Tourist Holiday Home. Taxis or jeeps can be picked up from the Mall to Ranikhet (₹800, two hours), Kausani (₹1000, 2½ hours), Bageshwar (₹1200, two hours), Nainital (₹1500, three hours), Pithoragah (₹2000, five hours) and Munsyari (₹4000, 10 hours).

Around Almora The hilltop Kasar Devi Temple, where Swami Vivekananda meditated, is 8km north of Almora and can be reached by share jeep (₹15) or taxi (₹300). The nearby village has become a popular destination for backpackers, with its peaceful vibe and clear-day Himalayan views. There are some great accomodation options here, including

Mohan’s (%9412162816; www.mohanscafe.com; r ₹500; iW), which has good rooms, internet,

a library and an inviting restaurant set on a large garden terrace with views; the wellrun Rainbow Guesthouse (%9410793473; r ₹ 300-500; W) where clean, appealing rooms have soothing color schemes; and Manu Guest House (%9410920696; r ₹250-400), set amid an orchard with a resident water buﬀalo, where the largest stone or brick cottages include kitchenettes. Beyond Kasar Devi, picturesque Binsar (2420m), 26km from Almora, was once the summer capital of the Chand rajas and is now a popular beauty spot for forest trekking, with panoramic views of the Himalayan peaks. There’s a ₹100 fee to enter the sanctuary. A return taxi from Almora costs ₹800.

Fourteen kilometres west of Almora, the 800-year-old Surya (Sun) temple at Katarmal, a 2km walk from the main road, can be visited by getting on any share jeep (₹20, 30 minutes) going to Ranikhet. An impressive temple complex is set in a forest of deodars at Jageshwar, 38km northeast of Almora. The 124 temples and shrines date to the 7th century AD and vary from linga shrines to large sikhara (Hindu temples). They’re a 4km walk from Jageshwar, which can be reached by taxi (₹900 return).

% 05962 / POP 4000 / ELEV 1890M

Perched high on a forest-covered ridge, this tiny village has lovely panoramic views of distant snowcapped peaks, fresh air and a relaxed atmosphere. Mahatma Gandhi found Kausani an inspirational place to retreat and write his Bhagavad Gita treatise Anasakti Yoga in 1929, and there is still an ashram devoted to him here. Nineteen kilometres north, Baijnath village has an intriguing complex of 12th-century sikhara-style temples in a lovely location shaded by trees, with other shrines in the nearby old village.

1 Sights & Activities

Kausani Tea Estate TEA ESTATE (%258330; www.uttaranchaltea.com; admission free; h9am-6pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov) At Kausani

Tea Estate – a tea plantation that involves private enterprise, the government and local farmers – you can look around and sample and buy products that are exported around the world. It’s 3.5km north of the village on the road to Baijnath, an easy and scenic walk. Anasakti Ashram HISTORIC SITE (%258028; Anasakti Ashram Rd) About 1km up-

hill from the bus stand, Anasakti Ashram is where Mahatma Gandhi spent two weeks pondering and writing Anasakti Yoga. It has a small museum (admission free; h6amnoon & 4-7pm) that tells the story of Gandhi’s life through photographs and words. Visit at 6pm to attend nightly prayers in his memory. You can stay at the ashram for a donation, but you must respect the rules, including attending evening prayers. Meals cost ₹40.

4 Sleeping & Eating Outside the two short peak seasons (May– June and October–November) the accommodation listed below is discounted by 50%.

439

bus stand but in a quiet location with a panoramic view of the Himalaya from your veranda, this is Kausani’s best-value accommodation. The cheaper rooms are small, with bucket hot water, but upper-floor rooms are spacious and have hot showers and TVs. The manager is helpful and friendly, and credit cards are accepted.

Krishna Mountview HOTEL $$$ (%258008; www.kumaonindia.com; Anasakti Ashram Rd; d ₹3200-4500, ste ₹6500-9000) Just past

Anasakti Ashram, this is one of Kausani’s smartest hotels, with clipped formal gardens (perfect for mountain views), the good Vaibhav restaurant, a gym and a pool table. All rooms are well kept and comfy, but the spacious upstairs rooms with balcony, bay windows and even rocking chairs are the pick.

Garden Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (Hotel Uttarakhand; meals ₹60-250; h24hr) In

front of Hotel Uttarkhand and enjoying fine Himalayan views, this bamboo and thatchroofed restaurant is Kausani’s coolest. The food comprises first class dishes from Swiss rösti to chicken tikka and imported pasta, as well as some Kumaon specialities, using fresh ingredients. There a lots of cheap dhabas around the main bazaar and the road leading uphill from the bus stand.

8 Information

Kausani has a State Bank of India ATM in the main bazaar, but no foreign currency exchange. Sanchar Dhaba Cyber Cafe (Anasakti Ashram Rd; per hr ₹40; h6am-9pm) At Hill Queen Restaurant. Uttarakhand Tourism office (%258067; The Mall; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

8 Getting There & Away

Buses and share jeeps stop in the village centre. Buses (₹45, 2½ hours) run about hourly to Almora, but afternoon buses generally stop at Karbala on the bypass road, from where you need to take a share jeep (₹10). Heading north, buses run every hour or so to Bageshwar via Baijnath (₹40, 1½ hours). Share jeeps (₹20, 30 minutes) run to Garur, 16km north of Kausani, from where other share jeeps go to Gwaldam for onward buses and jeeps to Garhwal (via Karnaprayag). A taxi to Almora costs around ₹1000; to Nainital it costs ₹2000.

SIG H TAKHAND S & AC T I VK TGI H ESSTASN& UT TAR SIIAU I AC T I V I T I E S

Kausani

Hotel Uttarakhand HOTEL $$ (%258012; www.uttarakhandkausani.zoomshare. com; d ₹750-2250; i) Up some steps from the

440

Bageshwar % 05963 / POP 7803 / ELEV 975M

UT TAR AKHAND

At the confluence of the Gomti and Sarju Rivers, Hindu pilgrims visit Bageshwar for its ancient stone Bagnath Temple. For travellers, it’s more important as a transit town to or from the Milam or Pindari Glacier trailheads. There’s a KMVN office (%220034; www.kmvn.org; Tarcula Rd) at the Tourist Rest House, where the trekking manager can arrange all-inclusive treks. At the bus stand, Annapurna Communication & Cafe (per hr ₹50; h8.30am-9.30pm) has internet access,

and there’s a State Bank of India ATM in the main bazaar. The okay Hotel Annapurna (%220109; r ₹200-400, s/d without bathroom ₹70/150) is conveniently located next to the bus stand. Across the river, about 1km from the bus stand, the large KMVN Bageshwar Tourist

Rest House (%220034; Tarcula Rd; dm ₹100, d ₹250-600) is a bit institutional but has rea-

sonable, spacious rooms and dorms. Several daily buses go to Almora (₹76, three hours), and Ranikhet (₹90, three hours) via Kausani (₹35, 1½ hours). Frequent buses run to Bhowali (₹120, six hours) and Haldwani (₹170, 7½ hours). For connections to Garhwal, take a bus (₹45, two hours) to Gwaldam and change there. For the Pindari Glacier trek, there are two daily buses to Song (₹36, two hours). For Milam Glacier, there’s a 9am bus to Munsyari (₹135, six hours). There are also 6.30am & 8am buses to Pithoragarh (₹145/120; 7 hours). The jeep stand is near the bus stand: share jeeps go to Garur (₹25, 30 minutes), Kausani (₹50, 1½ hours) and Gwaldam (₹60, two hours). A taxi to Song costs ₹800 (two hours).

Pithoragarh % 05964 / POP 41,157 / ELEV 1815M

Spread across the hillsides above a scenic valley that’s been dubbed ‘Little Kashmir’, Pithoragarh is the main town of a littlevisited region that borders Tibet and Nepal. Its sights include several Chand-era temples and an old fort, but the real reason to come here is to get oﬀ the tourist trail. The busy main bazaar is good for a stroll, and townspeople are exceptionally friendly. Picturesque hikes in the area include the rewarding climb up to Chandak (7km) for views of the Panchachuli (Five Chimneys) massif. There’s a tourist office (%225527) that can help with trekking guides and informa-

tion, a State Bank of India ATM in the bazaar and a handful of internet cafes (₹30 per hour). Cheap hotels can be found around the bus stand (rooms from ₹200), but for something much better head 200m uphill to

Hotel Yash Yatharth (%225005; Naya Bazaar; dm ₹200, r ₹600-2500). Rates can be reduced

by 80% if business is slow. For a good meal at a good price, locals swear by Jyonar Res-

taurant (Gandhi Chowk; mains ₹50-250; h8am9pm) in the bazaar.

Several buses leave in the morning for Almora (₹110, five hours). Regular buses go to the transport hub of Haldwani and on to Delhi. There are hourly services from 5am to 2pm to Banbassa (₹165, six hours), the border crossing into Nepal. Buses run north to Munsyari (₹135, eight hours), the trailhead for Milam Glacier, as do the ubiquitous share jeeps (₹180). If taking the long route to Munsyari through Jauljibi, one stretch of road has amazing views of the Kumaon and Nepali Himalayas.

Pindari Glacier Trek This six-day, 94km trek passes through truly virgin country that’s inhabited by only a few shepherds, and it oﬀers wonderful views of Nanda Kot (6860m), and Nanda Khat (6611m) on the southern rim of Nanda Devi Sanctuary. The 3km-long, 365m-wide Pindari Glacier is at 3353m, so take it easy to avoid altitude sickness. Permits aren’t needed but bring your passport. The trek begins and finishes at Song (1140m), a village 36km north of Bageshwar. Guides and porters can be organised easily in Song, or you can organise package treks through companies in Bageshwar or Almora. KMVN operates all-inclusive six-day treks out of Bageshwar for ₹5750 per person, staying at government rest houses. KMVN dorms (mattresses on the floor for ₹200), basic guest houses or dhaba huts (₹50 to ₹200) are dotted along the route, and food is available. Buses (₹36, two hours) or share jeeps (₹60, 1½ hours) run between Song and Bageshwar.

Milam Glacier Trek A challenging eight-day, 118km trek to this massive glacier at 3450m is reached along an ancient trade route to Tibet that was closed in 1962 following the war between India and

441

CROSSING INTO NEPAL Border Hours The border is open 24 hours, but before 6am and after 6pm you’re unlikely to find any officials to stamp you in and out of the respective countries. While officially open to vehicles only from 6am to 7am, noon to 2pm and 5 to 6pm, rickshaws and motorcycles are usually allowed to make the 1km trip across the bridge between the border posts at any time. Otherwise, you have to walk it. (Even if the vehicle gate is closed, ask them to open it, and they might.) Hotels in Banbassa will exchange Indian and Nepali rupees, as will a small office near the Nepal border post. Nabil Bank in Mahendranagar has an ATM and foreign currency exchange.

Onward Transport From the border, take a rickshaw to Mahendranagar. The bus station is about 1km from the centre on the Mahendra Hwy, from where buses leave for Kathmandu (₹1100, 16 hours) three times a day. There’s also a single Pokhara service at 10.30am (₹1000, 16 hours).

Visas Visas are available for US$30 (cash only) at the Nepali side of the border between 9am and 5pm.

China. It passes through magnificent rugged country to the east of Nanda Devi (7816m) and along the sometimes spectacular gorges of the Gori Ganga River. A popular but tough side trip to Nanda Devi East base camp adds another 32km or three days. Permits (free, passport required) are available from the District Magistrate in Munsyari. You will also need a tent and your own food supplies, as villages on the route may be deserted. KMVN organises all-inclusive eight-day treks (from ₹5325). The base for this excursion is the spectacularly located village of Munsyari (2290m), where the 6000m Panchachuli peaks scrape the sky across the Johar Valley. A guide, cook and porters can be hired and package treks can be arranged through Nanda Devi Tour

N Trek (%05961-222324; trek_beeru@rediﬀmail. com) or Johar Tour & Treks (%05961-222752).

Two kilometres downhill from the bazaar is the small Tribal Heritage Museum (%9411337094; admission free), run by the charming scholar SS Pangtey, with artifacts from the days when Munsyari was an important nexus of trade with Tibet. The plentiful accommodation in Munsyari includes Hotel Pandey Lodge (%9411130316; www.munsyarihotel.com; r ₹1001200) by the bus stand, which has a wide

range of good-value rooms, some with

amazing views. For motherly urging to eat til you’re stuﬀed (plates refilled free), try the hole-in-the-wall dhaba just to the left of Bugyal Restaurant, at the bus stand. A daily bus runs to Munsyari (₹190, 11 hours) from Almora; a jeep taxi costs around ₹3000 (10 hours). Buses run to and from Pithoragarh (₹140, eight hours) and Bageshwar (₹135, six hours). Share jeeps run to Thal (₹100, three hours), where you can change for onward transport. If travelling to Munsyari via Thal, get a right-side window seat for the best views along the road.

Banbassa POP 7138

Banbassa is the closest Indian village to the Nepal border post of Mahendranagar, 5km away. Check the current situation in western Nepal before crossing here, as roads during monsoon or immediate postmonsoon season may be impassable due to landslides and washed-out bridges. Although Banbassa has a train station, only metre-gauge local trains run to the main railhead at Bareilly. A better option is the bus service that runs to and from Haldwani, Haridwar and Delhi. Alternatively, take a train from Delhi to Bareilly then a bus from there to Banbassa.

8 TAR AKHAND B UT 8 ANBASSA

Foreign Exchange

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kolkata (Calcutta) Why Go? History . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . Entertainment . . . . . . . Shopping . . . . . . . . . . .

445 446 458 459 459 463 466 467 468

Best Places to Eat » Bhojohari Manna (p466) » Kewpies (p465)

» Oh! Calcutta (p465)

India’s second-biggest city is a daily festival of human existence, simultaneously noble and squalid, cultured and desperate. By its old spelling, Calcutta conjures up images of human suﬀering to most Westerners. But locally, Kolkata is regarded as India’s intellectual and cultural capital. While poverty is certainly in your face, the dapper Bengali gentry continues to frequent grand old gentlemen’s clubs, back horses at the Calcutta Racetrack and tee oﬀ at some of India’s finest golf courses. As the former capital of British India, Kolkata retains a feast of colonial-era architecture, albeit much in a photogenic state of semi-collapse. Meanwhile urban slums contrast with dynamic new-town suburbs and a rash of airconditioned shopping malls. Kolkata’s also the ideal place to experience the mild, fruity tang of Bengali cuisine. Friendlier than India’s other mega-cities, this is a city you ‘feel’ more than simply visit.

» Fire and Ice (p464)

Best Places to Stay » Oberoi Grand (p460) » Chrome (p461)

» Tollygunge Club (p462)

» Ashreen Guest House (p460)

When to Go Kolkata (Calcutta) °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

16/400 0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Oct The city dresses up magnificently for the colourful mayhem of Durga Puja.

Nov–Jan Cool and dry; there’s a November film festival and a big book fair in January.

May–Sep Best avoided unless you’re prepared for a very serious drenching.

Food Fruity and mildly spiced, Bengali food favours the sweet, rich notes of jaggery (palm-sugar), daab (young coconut), malaikari (coconut milk) and posto (poppy seed). Typical Bengali curry types include the light, coriander-scented jhol, drier spicier jhal and richer, ginger-based kalia. Strong mustard notes feature in shorshe curries and paturi dishes that come steamed in a banana leaf. Gobindobhog bhaat (steamed rice) or luchi (small puris) are the usual accompaniment. More characteristic than meat or chicken (murgir) are chingri (river prawns) and excellent fish, particularly white rui (rohu), fatty chital, cod-like bhekti and tasty but bone-filled ilish (hilsa). Excellent vegetarian choices include mochar ghonto (mashed banana-flower, potato and coconut), doi begun (eggplant in creamy sauce) and shukto, a favourite lunchtime starter combining at least five diﬀerent vegetables in a milk-based sauce. Bengali desserts and sweets are legendary. Most characteristic are mishti dhoi (curd deliciously sweetened with jaggery), rasgulla (syrupy sponge balls) and cham-cham (double-textured curd-based fingers).

DON’T MISS Sampling distinctive Bengali food, walking the chaotic back alleys, riding the Hooghly ferries, taking a motorbike tour to see more of the city and – if you’ve got more time – an excursion to the Sundarbans.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY The city has three major train stations Howrah, Sealdah and ‘Kolkata’ (Chitpore). The airport is well connected domestically and has a modest range of international flights. Buses arrive frequently from Bangladesh and regional destinations.

Fast Facts » Population: 14.7 million » Area: 185 sq km

» Telephone code: %033 » Main language: Bengali » Sleeping prices: $ below ₹1200, $$ ₹1200 to ₹10,000, $$$ above ₹10,000

Top Tip Top Festivals » Dover Lane Music Conference (www.thedoverlanemusic conference.in, late Jan) Indian classical music and dance at Rabindra Sarovar. » Kolkata Boi Mela (www.kolkatabookfaironline.com, late Jan/early Feb) Asia’s biggest book fair. » Saraswati Puja (early Feb) Prayers for educational success, all dress in yellow.

» Rath Yatra (Jun/Jul) Major Krishna chariot festival similar to the Puri equivalent.

» Durga Puja (www.durga-puja.org, Oct, see p457) Kolkata’s biggest festival. » Lakshmi Puja (full moon after Durga Puja) and Kali Puja (Diwali) feature more idol dunking. » Kolkata Film Festival (www.kff.in, mid-Nov) Week-long festival of Bengali and international movies.

Come for the head-spinning contrasts and disarmingly human quality of the city rather than for specific sights.

Resources » Bengali Recipes (http:// sutapa.com) » Tourist office (www .wbtourism.com/kolkata/ index.htm) » News & Listings (www .calcuttaweb.com)

» Classified ads (http:// kolkata.quikr.com, http:// kolkata.clickindia.com)

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Kolkata Highlights

1 Watch goddesses coming to life in the curious lanes of Kumartuli (p455) or on Kalighat Rd near the famous Kalighat Temple (p456)

2 Ponder the contradictions of the magnificent Victoria Memorial (p446) which remains Kolkata’s most splendid building, over 60

years after the end of the colonial era

3 Sample lipsmackingly authentic Bengali cuisine cheaply at Sidheshwari Ashram (p463) or in style at 6 Ballygunge Place (p466)

4 Discover the enlightened

universalist idealism of Ramakrishna in Belur Math

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(p456) and Rabindranath Tagore, India’s greatest modern poet, at Tagore’s House (p454), of which Kolkatans are understandably proud

5 Volunteer to help the destitute at Mother Teresa’s ‘Motherhouse’ (p448)

History

among middle-class Calcuttans. This was further galvanised by the massively unpopular 1905 division of Bengal, sowing the seeds of the Indian Independence movement. Bengal was reunited in 1911, but the British promptly transferred their colonial capital to less troublesome Delhi. Initially, loss of political power had little eﬀect on Calcutta’s economic status. However, the impact of 1947’s partition was devastating. While West Pakistan and Punjab saw a fairly equal (if bloody) exchange of populations, migration in Bengal was almost entirely one-way. Around four million Hindu refugees from East Bengal arrived, choking Calcutta’s already overpopulated bastis (slums). For a period, people really were dying of hunger in the streets, creating Calcutta’s abiding image of abject poverty. No sooner had these refugees been absorbed than a second wave arrived during the 1971 India–Pakistan War. After India’s partition, the port of Calcutta was hit very hard by the loss of its main natural hinterland, now behind the closed Pakistan (later Bangladesh) border. Labour unrest spiralled out of control while the city’s dominant party (Communist Party of India) spent most of its eﬀorts attacking the feudal system of land ownership. Wellintentioned attempts to set strict rent controls have since backfired: where tenants still pay a few rupees in monthly rent, landlords have no interest in maintaining or upgrading properties so many fine old buildings are crumbling before one’s eyes.

KOLKATA IN… Three Days On the first day admire the Victoria Memorial and surrounding attractions then visit India Tourism to grab a Marble Palace permit (to be used two days hence), before dining and dancing on Park or Camac Sts. On day two wander through the crumbling colonialera wonderland of BBD Bagh, experience the fascinating/disturbing alley-life of Old Chinatown and Barabazar and observe Howrah Bridge from colourful Mullik Ghat flower market. Refresh yourself with a beer at the Fairlawn. Day 3 visit Marble Palace and surrounding attractions, continuing to Kumartuli directly or by a vastly longer loop via Dakshineswar and Belur Math, returning by boat.

One Week To the above, consider adding a day or more volunteering. Visit Mother Teresa’s Motherhouse, continue by tram to South Park St Cemetery and dine at Shiraz. Experience the contrasts of Southern Kolkata, its dawn laughing clubs, the great Bengali food, the goat sacrifices at Kalighat and the art galleries of Gariahat. Ponder the moral dilemmas of taking/not taking a hand-drawn rickshaw, of playing golf or of having a flutter at the racecourse. Join a tour to the Sundarbans in West Bengal.

445

H I S TO R Y (CALCUT TA) H I S TO R Y KOLK ATA

Although Kalikata (now Kalighat) had been a much-revered temple for centuries, the Kolkata area was very much a rural backwater when British merchant Job Charnock showed up in 1686. He considered the site appropriate for a new, defendable colonial settlement and within a few decades a miniature version of London was sprouting stately buildings and English churches amid wide boulevards and grand formal gardens. But the grand illusion vanished abruptly at Calcutta’s frayed edges where Indians servicing the Raj mostly lived in cramped, overcrowded slums. The most notable hiccup in the city’s meteoric rise came in 1756, when Sirajud-daula, the nawab of nearby Murshidabad, recaptured the city. Dozens of members of the colonial aristocracy were imprisoned in a cramped room beneath Fort William. By morning, around 40 of them were dead from suﬀocation. The British press exaggerated numbers, drumming up moral outrage back home: the legend of the ‘Black Hole of Calcutta’ was born. The following year, Clive of India retook Calcutta for Britain. The nawab sought aid from the French but was soundly defeated at the Battle of Plassey (now Palashi), thanks mainly to the treachery of former allies. A stronger fort was built and the town became British India’s oﬃcial capital, though well into the late 18th century one could still hunt tigers in the bamboo forests around where Sudder St lies today. The late-19th-century Bengali Renaissance movement saw a great cultural reawakening

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In 2001 Calcutta oﬃcially adopted the more phonetic spelling, Kolkata. Around the same time the city administration implemented a new, relatively business-friendly attitude that has encouraged a noticeable economic resurgence. The most visible results are numerous suburban shopping malls and apartment towers plus the rapid emergence of Salt Lake City’s Sector 5 as Kolkata’s alternative corporate and entertainment centre, albeit well oﬀ most tourists’ radar.

1 Sights CENTRAL KOLKATA Victoria Memorial HISTORIC BUILDING (VM; Map p446; Indian/foreigner ₹10/150; h10am5pm Tue-Sun, last tickets 4.30pm) The incredible

Victoria Memorial is a vast, beautifully proportioned festival of white marble: think US Capitol meets Taj Mahal. Had it been built for a beautiful Indian princess rather than a dead colonial queen, this would surely be

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considered one of India’s greatest buildings. It was designed to commemorate Queen Victoria’s 1901 diamond jubilee, but construction wasn’t completed until nearly 20 years after her death. Don’t miss the statues as you enter the first hallway: King George V faces his wife Mary but looks more a queen himself in his camp breeches. To the left, prints and paintings are displayed on hardboard hoardings that jar with the gallery’s original splendour. The soaring central chamber remains very impressive and leads through to the Kolkata Gallery, an excellent, even-handed exhibition tracing the city’s colonial-era history. Even if you don’t want to go in, the building is still worth admiring from afar: there’s a magnificently photogenic view across reflecting ponds from the northeast. Or you can get closer by paying your way into the large, well-tended park (admission ₹4:

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h5.45am-5.45pm). By day, entrance is from the north or south gates (with ticket booths at both), though you can exit to the east. In the evenings the VM makes a spectacular canvas for a 45-minute Englishlanguage sound-and-light show (Indian/

foreigner ₹10/20; h7.15pm Tue-Sun Nov-Feb, 7.45pm Tue-Sun Mar-Jun) that’s better than you

might initially fear from the very dated opening slide sequence. Ticket booth and entry are from the east gate. Seating is outside and uncovered; there are no shows in summer. Around the Victoria Monument

Loosely styled on Sarnath’s classic Buddhist stupa, the Birla Planetarium (Map p446; Chowringhee Rd) presents slow-moving, half-hour star shows (admission ₹30) in English at 1.30pm and 6.30pm.

Revolutionary turned guru Sri Aurobindo was born in Calcutta in 1872 and his grand childhood mansion-home has been preserved as an Aurobindo centre. Its garden forms an oasis of peace in the city centre and there’s an openair meditation space where you can sit as you wish or join half-hour group meditations at 7pm on Thursdays or Saturdays.

The Maidan PARK (Map p446, p450) After the ‘Black Hole’ fiasco, a

See Southern Kolkata Map (p458)

# ð

(Map p446; www.hstreetartscentre.com; 2nd fl, 8 Ho Chi Minh Sarani; h2-8pm Mon-Sat) and Aakriti Gallery (Map p446; www.aakritiartgallery.com; 1st fl, 12/3A Hungerford St; hnoon-7pm Mon-Sat).

Aurobindo Bhawan SACRED SITE (Map p446; 8 Shakespeare Sarani; h8am-8pm)

are Sarani (T heatre Rd)

AREA

With its central crenellated tower, the 1847

St Paul’s Cathedral (Map p446; Cathedral Rd; h9am-noon & 3-6pm) would look quite at

home in Cambridgeshire. It has a remarkably wide nave and features a stained-glass west window by pre-Raphaelite maestro Sir Edward Burne-Jones. The Academy of Fine Arts (Map p446; 2 Cathedral Rd; admission free; h3-8pm) has a

447

moated ‘second’ Fort William was constructed in 1758 in octagonal, Vaubanesque form. The whole village of Gobindapur was flattened to give the new fort’s cannons a clear line of fire. Though sad for then-residents, this created the Maidan (pronounced moidan), a 3km-long park that is today as fundamental to Kolkata as Central Park is to New York City. Fort William remains hidden within a walled military zone, but for an amusingly far-fetched tale of someone who managed to get in, read Simon Winchester’s Calcutta. New Market & Esplanade AREA (Map p450) Before 8am, most of New Mar-

ket’s handicraft touts are still sleeping, so come early to admire the distinctive brick clocktower and atmospheric Hogg Market. Walking towards Esplanade, notice the fascinatingly crumbling facade of Futnani Chambers, the classic ’50s-style Elite Cinema and colonial-era Metropolitan Building. A block north the fanciful Tipu Sultan’s Mosque hides almost invisibly behind market stalls. Rising above chaotic Esplanade bus station, the 1828 Sahid Minar is a 48m-tall round-topped obelisk originally celebrating an 1814 British military victory over Nepal. Indian Museum MUSEUM (Map p450; www.indianmuseumkolkata.org; Chowringhee Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹10/150, camera ₹50;

S I G H ATA T S (CALCUT TA) S I G H T S KOLK

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bright, ground-floor gallery featuring changing exhibitions by local artists but its upstairs museum section remains closed for the foreseeable future. Imaginative private galleries include Harrington Street Gallery

448

Central Kolkata æ Sights 1 Aakriti Gallery .........................................D1 2 Academy of Fine Arts............................ B3 3 Aurobindo Bhawan................................ C2 4 Birla Planetarium................................... B2 5 Harrington St Gallery .............................C1 6 Netaji Bhawan........................................ C4 7 South Park St Cemetery........................E2 8 St Paul's Cathedral................................ B2 9 Victoria Memorial .................................. A2

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

ÿ Sleeping 10 Allenby Inn ............................................. C4 11 Astor ....................................................... C2 12 Chrome................................................... D3 13 Golden Park ............................................C1 14 Kenilworth .............................................. C2

ý Entertainment 25 ICCR ........................................................ C1 Inox Elgin Rd ................................. (see 22) 26 Nandan Cinema......................................B3 Rabindra Sadan............................ (see 26) 27 Sisir Mancha...........................................B3 28 Underground ..........................................C3 Venom........................................... (see 24) þ Shopping 29 Ankur Kala .............................................. F3 30 Classic Books/Earthcare Books........... C1 31 Crossword ..............................................C4 32 Manjusha ................................................ D1 Nagaland Emporium.....................(see 41) 33 Pragjyotika.............................................. C1

ú Eating Drive Inn ........................................(see 30) 15 Fire & Ice .................................................C1 16 Haldiram................................................. B3 17 Jalapenos ................................................D1 18 Kewpies .................................................. C4 19 Kookie Jar ...............................................E2 20 Mainland China .......................................E4 21 Momo Corner......................................... B4 22 Oh! Calcutta ........................................... C4 23 Shiraz.......................................................F2

Information 34 Bangladeshi Consulate.......................... F3 35 Bhutanese Consulate ............................E3 36 British Deputy High Commission......................................... C1 37 FRO..........................................................C3 38 Globe Forex ............................................ C1 39 India Tourism..........................................C2 40 Manipur State Office..............................E4 41 Nagaland State Office............................C2 42 Sikkim State Office ................................ C1 43 US Consulate..........................................C2

û Drinking Big Ben .......................................... (see 14) Café Thé ........................................ (see 25) 24 Urban Desi.............................................. C2

Transport 44 Biman Bangladesh ..................................E1 45 China Eastern Airlines ...........................D3 Druk Air ......................................... (see 35)

h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun, last entry 4pm) Kolkata’s old-fashioned main museum fills a colonnaded palace ranged around a central lawn. Extensive exhibits include fabulous 1000-yearold Hindu sculptures, lumpy minerals, a dangling whale skeleton and an ancient Egyptian mummy. Gag at the pickled human embryos (gallery 19) and eight-legged goat, spot the surreal Glyptodon dinosaur-armadillo (gallery 11) and don’t miss the re-assembled 2ndcentury BC Barhut Gateway (gallery 2). Gallery 15 displays 20 rings and 18 bangles found in the tummy of a gigantic man-eating crocodile. Note that no bags are allowed inside: handbags can be stored at the entrance but don’t arrive with a backpack.

Mother Teresa’s ‘Motherhouse’ SACRED SITE (oﬀ Map p450; www.motherteresa.org; 54A AJC Bose Rd; hvisits 8am-noon & 3-6pm Fri-Wed)

Pilgrims arrive here in droves to pay homage at Mother Teresa’s large, sober tomb. Exhibits in a small adjacent museum (h9am-noon & 3-5.30pm) include Teresa’s worn sandals and battered enamel dinner-bowl. And upstairs, the ‘Mother’s room’ is where she worked and slept from 1953 to 1997, preserved in all its simplicity. The charity’s numerous Kolkata sites welcome short-term volunteers, qualified or not. Start by attending a briefing two blocks north at Sishu Bhavan (78 AJC Bose Rd; h3pm Mon, Wed & Fri). Please do not give anything (including sweets, milk powder, toothpaste etc) to the handful of professional beggars who have ‘claimed the territory’ outside the Motherhouse: some, including an eloquent Eurasian mother–daughter team, are sophisticated players but their activities cause regular problems

for the Mission staﬀ and the ‘profession’ is so lucrative that we’ve been told that the children refuse to take available school places. South Park Street Cemetery CEMETERY (Map p446; admission ₹20 donation appropriate; h8am-4.45pm) Today Park St is one of Kol-

kata’s top commercial avenues, but when it was constructed in the 1760s, it was a simple causeway across uninhabited marshlands built to access the then-new South Park Street Cemetery. These days the cemetery remains a wonderful oasis of calm featuring mossy Raj-era graves from rotundas to soaring pyramids, all jostling for space in a lightly manicured jungle.

if you’re lunching at Kewpies, this housemuseum celebrates the life and vision of controversial independence radical Subhas Chandra Bose, maintaining several rooms decorated in 1940s style. It was Bose’s brother’s residence from which Subhas made his famous ‘Great Escape’ from British-imposed house arrest in January 1941. The original getaway car is parked in the drive. BBD BAGH AREA BBD Bagh

AREA

Originally called Tank Sq, BBD Bagh is a large square centred on a palm-lined central reservoir-lake (‘tank’) that once supplied the young city’s water. Some locals still call it by its later-colonial name Dalhousie Sq, commemoratingBritish Lieutenant-Governor Lord Dalhousie. The square is now rerenamed after the nationalists who tried to assassinate him. In fact the BBD trio (Binoy, Badal and Dinesh) bungled their 1930 raid, killing instead an unlucky prisons inspector. Nonetheless the attack was a highly symbolic moment in the self-determination struggle. The assassination took place within the photogenic 1780 Writers’ Building (Map p452), whose glorious south facade looks something like a French provincial city hall. Originally built for clerks (‘writers’) of the East India Company, it’s still a haven of pen-pushing bureaucracy. Although concrete intrusions detract from the overall spectacle, there are many other resplendent colonial-era edifices around the square. St Andrews Church (Map p452) has a fine Wren-style spire, the former Standard Chartered Building (Map p452; Netaji Subhash Rd) has a vaguely Moorish feel and the red-brick Standard Buildings

449

GPO LANDMARK (Map p452; BBD Bagh) The 1866 General Post

Oﬃce was built on the ruins of the original Fort William, site of the infamous ‘Black Hole of Calcutta’. It sports an imposing cupola and at night, floodlit in pale violet light, looks particularly impressive when viewed across the lake from behind the BBD Bagh minibus stand. Nearby there’s a loveable little philatelic museum (Map p452; Koilaghat St; admission free; h11am-4pm Mon-Sat). Raj Bhavan HISTORIC BUILDING (Map p452; http://rajbhavankolkata.nic.in; hclosed to public) Somewhat resembling the US White

House, the grand Raj Bhavan was designed in 1799 along the lines of Kedleston Hall, the Derbyshire home of the Curzon family. By strange coincidence, one of its most famous masters a century later would be none other than Lord Curzon. Today the building is the oﬃcial residence of the West Bengal governor and visitors may only peep through the ornate giant gates. High Court HISTORIC BUILDING (Map p452; http://calcuttahighcourt.nic.in; Esplanade Row West) Another of Kolkata’s greatest

architectural triumphs is the 19th-century High Court building, loosely modelled on the medieval Cloth Hall in Ypres (Flanders). You can’t go inside, but for good exterior views approach from the south walking past the western end of the low-domed West Bengal Assembly building. Kolkata Panorama MUSEUM (Map p452; http://tinyurl.com/Kolkpan; 4 Esplanade West; weekdays/weekends ₹10/15; h11am6pm Tue-Sun, last entry 5pm) Within an impos-

ing colonnaded cube that was originally the Town Hall building, this interactive museum introduces the city’s heritage through a lively collection of working models. It’s well designed, though historically selective, and many foreigners will struggle to appreciate fully the detailed sections on Bengali popular culture. You’ll be accompanied by a guide which makes it awkward to ‘escape’ quickly. St John’s Church CHURCH (Map p452; KS Roy Rd; h8am-5pm) This stone-

spired 1787 church is ringed by columns and contains a small, portrait-draped room once used as an oﬃce by Warren Hastings, India’s first British governor-general (on the right as you enter). The graveyard (admission ₹10)

S I G H ATA T S (CALCUT TA) S I G H T S KOLK

Netaji Bhawan MUSEUM (Map p446; www.netaji.org; 38/2 Elgin Rd; adult/ child ₹5/2; h11am-4pm Tue-Sun) Worth a look

(Map p452; 32 BBD Bagh) have carved nymphs and wrought-iron balconies at the rear.

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small, professionally presented new museum brings alive the history of Indian banking using archive materials like the original account ledgers of Tagore and of Nehru’s father.

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contains two curious octagonal monuments, the mausoleum of Job Charnock celebrating Kolkata’s disputed ‘founder’ and a 1902 Black Hole Memorial that was moved here in 1940. Eden Gardens

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NORTH-CENTRAL KOLKATA Howrah Bridge (Rabindra Setu)

LANDMARK

Howrah Bridge is a 705m-long abstraction of steel cantilevers and traffic fumes. Built during WWII, it’s one of the world’s busiest bridges and an architectural icon. For the best view, fight your way through the Mullik Ghat flower market to Mullik Ghat. Photography of the bridge itself is technically prohibited but enforcement appears to be lax of late and if you’re stopped here, you might sneak a discreet shot from one of the various river-ferries that ply the Hooghly to the vast 1906 Howrah train station. Barabazar

AREA

North and northeast of BBD Bagh lies a wide scattering of religious buildings. Alone none warrants a special trip, but weaving between them is a great excuse to explore some of Kolkata’s most vibrantly chaotic alleys teeming with traders, rickshaw couriers and baggage

451

Chowringhee æ Sights 1 Indian Museum ...................................... A2 2 New Market Clocktower........................ B2

35 Mocambo................................................B4 36 Peter Cat.................................................A4 37 Prince ......................................................D2

Radhuni......................................... (see 37) Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 3 Backpackers .......................................... C2

38 Raj's Spanish Cafe ................................. D1 39 Sidheswari Ashram................................ B1 40 Super Chicken ........................................ D1

ú Eating 24 Aminia .....................................................B1 25 Arsalan ................................................... B3 26 Bar-B-Q .................................................. B4 27 Blue & Beyond ....................................... B2 28 Blue Sky Cafe......................................... B2 29 Fresh & Juicy ......................................... B2 Gangaur......................................... (see 41) 30 Hot Kati Rolls ......................................... A3 31 Hotel Mastan...........................................B1 32 Jong's/Zaranj ........................................ A2 33 Kathleen Confectioners .........................D1 34 Marco Polo ............................................. B4

wallahs with impossibly huge packages balanced on their heads. Hidden away amid the paper-merchant district of Old China Bazaar St, the 18th-century Armenian Church of

Nazareth (Map p452; Armenian St; h6am-6pm)

was founded in 1707 and is claimed to be Kolkata’s oldest place of Christian worship. Gravestones in the peaceful yard outside date back to 1630. The church’s low but finely proportioned, whitewashed clocktower-spire is best spied from Bonfield Lane. The larger

41 Teej..........................................................A4

ü Drinking Ashalayam .....................................(see 15) Fairlawn Hotel................................(see 10) 42 Flury's......................................................A4 Roxy ...............................................(see 21) Someplace Else.............................(see 21) ý Entertainment 43 BQ's Snooker..........................................B3 Tantra.............................................(see 21) þ Shopping Ashalayam .....................................(see 15) 44 Hawkers' Market .................................... A1 45 Karmyog .................................................A4 46 Local Tailors ...........................................C4 47 Oxford Bookstore...................................A3 Information 48 Eastern Diagnostics...............................D2 49 Electro Photo-Lab ..................................A2 50 Gorukh .................................................... D1 51 Nahoum Bakery (for BethEl Synagogue permits) ........................... B1 Transport Backpackers................................... (see 3) 52 Bus 55A for Botanical Gardens............. A1 53 GMG Airlines...........................................B4 54 GreenLine ...............................................B3 55 Shohagh Paribahan ...............................B2 United Airways Bangladesh ........ (see 25)

1797 Portuguese-Catholic Holy Rosary Cathedral (Map p452; Brabourne Rd; h6am-11am)

has eye-catching crown-topped side towers and an interior whose font is festively kitsch. Kolkata’s Jewish community once numbered around 30,000 but these days barely 40 aging co-religionists turn up at Moghan

David Synagogue (Map p452; Canning St; hby discussion with doorkeeper) for rare celebrations

in what looks, from outside, like a tall-spired church. Around the corner, the derelict Neveh

S I G H ATA T S (CALCUT TA) S I G H T S KOLK

ÿ Sleeping 4 Aafreen Tower ....................................... B3 5 Ashreen Guest House ............................D1 6 Bawa Walson...........................................D1 7 Bhagirathi Guest House........................ D2 8 Centrepoint Guest House ......................D1 9 Corporate............................................... B4 10 Fairlawn Hotel ........................................ B2 11 Hotel Aafreen......................................... C3 12 Hotel Galaxy........................................... D2 13 Hotel Pioneer International................... B3 14 Hotel Pushpak........................................ B3 15 Hotel VIP InterContinental.................... B3 16 Housez 43 .............................................. B3 17 Lytton Hotel ........................................... A2 18 Modern Lodge........................................ D2 19 Oberoi Grand ..........................................A1 20 Paragon Hotel ........................................ D2 21 Park Hotel .............................................. A3 22 Sunflower Guest House ........................ B4 23 Timestar Hotel ....................................... D2

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Shalome Synagogue (Map p452; Brabourne Rd) is almost invisible behind the shop stalls

that use it as a storehouse. Opposite decrepit Pollock St Post Oﬃce (once a grand Jewish school building) is BethEl Synagogue (Map p452; Pollock St) whose colonnaded interior can

# ¡

only be visited with written permission, oddly obtained across town from Nahoum Bakery (Map p450; Stall F-20, New Market; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1pm Sun). Allow two days!

Rising above the colourful shopfronts of ever-fascinating Rabindra Sarani, the 1926

453

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ÿ Sleeping 27 Bengal Buddhist Association ............... D5 28 Broadway Hotel ..................................... D5

Nakhoda Mosque (Map p452; 1 Zakaria St) is an impressive confection of red arches bristling with domes and minarets. It was loosely modelled on Akbar’s Mausoleum at Sikandra. Old Chinatown

AREA

For nearly two centuries the area around Phears Lane was home to a predominantly Christian Chinese community, many of whom fled or were interned during a fit of antiChinese fervour during the 1962 war. These days ‘old’ Chinatown is pretty run down but is a fascinating place to glimpse Kolkata’s contrasts. On the turn of ragged little Damzen Lane you’ll find the shrine-like Chinese church, Nam Soon (Map p452). A little further along is an oversized turquoise gateway (Map p452; 10 Damzen Lane), built to allow passage for domestic elephants. The once-grand 1924 Nangking Restaurant (Map p452; Lushun Sarani) is now a wreck beside which a rubbish

29 Esplanade Chambers.............................D5

ú Eating 30 Amber/Essence .....................................C5 31 Anand ......................................................C5 32 KC Das.....................................................C6 33 Song Hay.................................................B5 û Drinking Broadway Bar............................... (see 28) 34 Rocks.......................................................C5 þ Shopping 35 Mondal & Sons .......................................C4 Information 36 West Bengal Tourism ............................B4 Transport 37 Air India ...................................................D5 38 Airport Bus .............................................B6 39 Computerised Booking Office...............A4 40 CSBC Ticket Office ................................B6 41 Eastern Railways' Foreign Tourist Bureau.....................................B3 42 Esplanade Bus Station...........................B6 43 Minibus to Airport Gate 1 via Dum Dum.............................................B4 44 Prepaid Taxi Booth................................. A1 45 Shipping Corporation of India...............A4 46 Tram 26 Terminus ................................. B1

heap supports a community of destitute scavengers who scrape together a miserable existence living in tent-and-box shacks on neighbouring pavements. Very humbling. Just after dawn, there’s a lively market scene on Tiretta’s Bazaar. It’s all closed by 10am, as is the archetypal old Chinese shop,

Hap Hing (Map p452; 10 Sun Yat Sen St; h6am10am Mon-Sat, 6am-8.30am Sun) where owner

Stella Chen can tell you lots more about the community and sells a colour-picture-book/ CD set Chinatown Kolkata (₹500). Note that Kolkata has a second Chinatown further east at Tangra where tanneries once produced the leather for the community’s many shoe-makers. That rather forbidding area now has only around 50 Chinese families but almost as many Chinese restaurants.

Marble Palace MUSEUM (oﬀ Map p452; 46 Muktaram Babu St; h10am-3pm closed Mon & Thu) Resplendent yet slightly

S I G H ATA T S (CALCUT TA) S I G H T S KOLK

æ Sights 1 Armenian Church of Nazareth ............. C2 2 Banking Museum................................... A5 3 BethEl Synagogue ................................. C3 4 Elephant Gateway ................................. D3 5 Elite Cinema........................................... C6 6 Former Nangking Restaurant............... D4 7 GPO......................................................... B4 8 Hap Hing Chinese Shop ........................ C4 9 High Court.............................................. A5 10 Holy Rosary Cathedral .......................... C2 11 Kolkata Panorama................................. A5 12 Metropolitan Building............................ C6 13 Moghan David Synagogue.................... C2 14 Nakhoda Mosque .................................. D2 15 Nam Soon .............................................. D3 16 Neveh Shalome Synagogue Ruin...................................................... C2 17 Philatelic Museum ................................. B4 18 Raj Bhavan ............................................. B5 19 Ranji Stadium......................................... A6 20 Sahid Minar ............................................ B6 21 St Andrew's Church .............................. C4 22 St John's Church ................................... A4 23 Standard Buildings................................ B4 24 Standard Chartered Building ............... B3 25 Tipu Sultan's Mosque............................ C6 26 Writers' Building .................................... B3

454

run down, this grand 1835 raja’s mansion is astonishingly overstuﬀed with statues, Victoriana, Belgian glassware and fine if bedraggled paintings including supposedly original works by Murillo, Joshua Reynolds and three by Rubens. Napoleons beat Wellingtons two to one in the music room, which is lavishly floored with marble inlay. The ballroom retains its vast array of candle chandeliers with globes of silvered glass to spread illumination: original 19th-century disco balls! Before arriving you need to get a permission note from one of the tourist oﬃces (see p469). With this note, admission

is technically free. However, the (obligatory) guide solicits tips of ₹50 to ₹100 per group. To find Marble Palace from MG Rd metro, walk three blocks north to the first traﬃc light and turn west at 171 Chittaranjan Ave. To continue to Tagore’s House, continue west down Muktaram Babu St (there’s a great little ₹2 tea stand at no 13 run by a yogi teawallah), then turn right on Rabindra Sarani, passing several stone-cutting workshops. Tagore’s House MUSEUM (oﬀ Map p452; Rabindra Bharati Museum; www.rabin drabharatimuseum.org; 246D Rabindra Sarani; Indian/foreigner ₹10/50, student ₹5/25;

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

STREET NAMES After independence, the Indian government changed any street name that had Raj-era connotations. The Communists continued the process. Humorously they chose to rename Harrington St such that the US found its consulate on a road named for its then arch-enemy, Ho Chi Minh. Today citizens and taxis mostly use the British-era names while, confusingly, most maps, street signs and business cards use the new names (or sometimes both). This text uses what we found, quite unscientifically, to be the most commonly employed variant, italicised in the list below: OLD NAME

NEW NAME

Ballygunge Rd

Ashutosh Chowdhury Ave (AC Rd)

Brabourne Rd

Biplabi Trailokya Maharaja Rd

Camac St

Abinindranath Tagore St

Central Ave

Chittaranjan (CR) Ave

Chitpore Rd

Rabindra Sarani

Chowringhee Rd

Jawaharlal Nehru Rd

Dalhousie Sq

BBD Bagh

Free School St

Mirza Ghalib St

Harrington St

Ho Chi Minh Sarani

Harrison Rd

Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd

Hungerford St

Picasso Bithi

Kyd St

Dr M Ishaque Rd

Lansdowne Rd

Sarat Bose Rd

Loudon St

Dr UM Bramhchari St

Lower Circular Rd

AJC Bose Rd

Old Courthouse St

Hemant Basu Sarani

Park St

Mother Teresa Sarani

Rowden St

Sarojini Naidu Sarani

Theatre Rd

Shakespeare Sarani

Victoria Terrace

Gorky Terrace

Waterloo St

Nawab Siraj-ud-Daula Sarani

Wellesley St

RAK (Rafi Ahmed Kidwai) Rd

Wood St

Dr Martin Luther King Sarani

455

MOTHER TERESA

h10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Within Rabindra Bharati University, the comfortable 1784 family mansion of Rabindranath Tagore has become a shrine-like museum to India’s greatest modern poet. Even if his personal eﬀects don’t inspire you, some of the wellchosen quotations might spark an interest in Tagore’s deeply universalist philosophy. There’s also a decent gallery of paintings by his family and contemporaries and an exhibition on his links with Japan. The 1930 photo of Tagore taken with Einstein could win a ‘World’s Wildest Hair’ competition. You’d need an hour to see everything but for many casual visitors a brief glimpse is enough. Bagbazar-bound trams connect to Kumartuli, passing many fascinating vignettes of Kolkata life.

Kumartuli

AREA

Many of the giant god effigies that are immersed in the holy Hooghly during Kolkata’s colourful pujas have been made by the kumar (sculptors) of this enthralling district. Diﬀerent workshops specialise in creating the straw frames, adding clay coatings or painting the divine features. Craftsmen are busiest from August till November for the Durga and Kali festivals. There’s a great selection of workshops on the narrow lane running two blocks west from 499 Rabindra Sarani. Where

that makes a T-junction turn right for more (Banamali Sakar St). That road ends 300m north at Durgacharan Banerjee St. Turning left here brings you quickly to a ghat where the sculptors’ mud-clay is brought in by boat. A tree-shaded riverside stroll north of here passes several small shrines en route to Bagbazar Jetty whence passenger ferries cross to Howrah (₹4.50, 20 minutes with two stops, four hourly) and Baranagar (twice hourly). Ashutosh Museum of Indian Art MUSEUM (www.caluniv.ac.in; Centenary Bldg, 87/1 College St; admission ₹10; h11.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Price-

less antique Indian sculptures, brasswork and Bengali terracotta are displayed with very little fanfare in this dry, but brilliantly endowed museum tucked behind Kolkata University’s Central Library. It’s down the first lane oﬀ College St as you walk north from Colootola Rd. Trams 2 and 5 pass along College St here. While you’re in the university area consider visiting the mythic Indian

Coffee House (1st fl, 15 Bankim Chatterjee St; coﬀee ₹9, snack meals ₹14-35; h9am-9pm MonSat, 9am-12.30pm & 5-9pm Sun). Once a meet-

ing place of freedom fighters, bohemians and revolutionaries, today its high ceilings and slightly grimy walls ring with deafening student conversation but despite the dishwater coﬀee, it’s perversely fascinating.

S I G H ATA T S (CALCUT TA) S I G H T S KOLK

For many people, Mother Teresa (1910–97) was the living image of human sacrifice. Born Agnes Gonxha Bojaxhiu to Albanian parents in then-Ottoman Üsküp (now Skopje in Macedonia), she joined the Irish Order of Loreto nuns and worked for over a decade teaching in Calcutta’s St Mary’s High School (92 Ripon St). Horrified by the city’s spiralling poverty she established a new order, the Missionaries of Charity (www.mother teresa.org) and founded refuges for the destitute and dying. Nirmal Hriday (Sacred Heart; Map p458; 251 Kalighat Rd; hclosed for renovation at the time of research), the first of these, opened in 1952 in a former Kalighat pilgrims’ hostel. Although the order expanded into an international charity, Mother Teresa herself continued to live in absolute simplicity. She was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1979 and beatified by the Vatican in October 2003, the first oﬃcial step towards being made a saint. But this ‘Saint of the Gutters’ is not universally beloved. For some Kolkatans it’s slightly galling to find their cultured, predominantly Hindu city popularly linked in the world’s mind with a Catholic heroine whose work underlined the city’s least appealing facet. Germaine Greer has accused Mother Teresa of religious imperialism, while Christopher Hitchens’ book, The Missionary Position, decries the donations from dictators and corrupt tycoons. Many have questioned the Missionaries of Charity’s minimal medical background and Teresa’s staunchly Catholic position against contraception, which seems particularly untenable given Kolkata’s AIDS and hepatitis problems. However, the organisation was never primarily focused on saving lives, simply oﬀering a little love and dignity to the dying. Before Mother Teresa, even that was an unknown luxury for the truly destitute.

456

Walk up College St and turn right one block before MG Rd (it’s 20m down a side lane then upstairs to the left). MG Rd towards Sealdah Station from here is an inspiring chaos of mouldering generations-old box shops, potion sellers and cardmakers beneath dishevelled, occasionally grand old facades. Heading the other way, numbers 104 to 116 oﬀer colourfully costumed brass-bands for hire. NORTHERN KOLKATA

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

This area’s long distances and tedious traﬃc are mitigated if you use a public riverboat from Dakshineswar to Belur Math, then charter a boat onward to Bagbazar. Doing that in reverse is less feasible due to a lack of boat-hire possibilities at Bagbazar. Sheetalnathji Mandir JAIN TEMPLE (www.jaindharmonline.com/pilgri/shitala.htm; Badridas Temple St; donation appropriate; h6am-noon & 3-7pm) The best known of a closely grouped

trio of Jain temples, this 1867 complex is a dazzling if unrefined pastiche of colourful mosaics, spires, columns and slivered figurines that looks like a work by Gaudi. It’s 1.6km from Shyambazar metro.

Dakshineswar HINDU TEMPLE (www.dakshineswarkalitemple.org; h6.30am-noon & 3-8.30pm) The heart of this vibrant river-

side complex is a cream-and-red 1847 Kali Temple shaped like an Indian Sacré-Coeur. The site is where Ramakrishna started his remarkable spiritual journey and his small room in the outer northwest corner of the temple precinct is now a place of special meditative reverence. A metro extension is under construction to Dakshineswar train station, 400m south of the temple, which has roughly hourly suburban train services from Sealdah (20 minutes) and is the terminus of bus DN9/1 from Dum Dum metro (₹5). Uncovered boats to Belur Math (per passenger/boat ₹8/240, 20 minutes) leave when full from the temples’ treeshaded riverbank. Bring a hat or umbrella.

Belur Math SACRED SITE (www.sriramakrishna.org/belur.htm; Grand Trunk Rd; h6.30am-noon & 3.30-8.30pm) Set very at-

tractively amid palms and manicured lawns, this large religious centre is the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Mission, inspired by 19th-century Indian sage Ramakrishna Paramahamsa, who preached the unity of all religions. Its centrepiece is the 1938

Ramakrishna Mandir (hcloses 8pm) which somehow manages to look like a cathedral, Indian palace and Istanbul’s Aya Sofya all at the same time. Several smaller shrines (h6.30-11.30am & 3.30-5.15pm) near the Hooghly riverbank include the Sri Sarada Devi Temple, entombing the guru’s wife. Accessed from the car park, the beautifully presented dual-level museum (admission ₹5; h8.30-11.30am & 3.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun)

charts Ramakrishna’s life and travels, with mock-ups of buildings in which he stayed from Rajasthan to New York. Minibus 11 and bus 54 run to Esplanade, bus 56 to Howrah. However, to avoid the miserable stop-start traﬃc, consider chartering a boat to Bagbazar near Kumartuli (₹350). Six daily suburban trains run from Belur Math to Howrah (₹4, 25 minutes)

WEST KOLKATA Botanical Gardens PARK (Indian/foreigner ₹5/50, 40-min buggy-tour ₹25/150 extra; h5.30am-5pm) If it weren’t

such an awkward trek by public transport, Kolkata’s lovely 109-hectare Botanical Gardens would make a great place to escape from the city’s sounds and smells. Founded in 1786, the gardens played an important role in cultivating tea long before the drink became a household commodity. Today there’s a cactus house, palm collection, river-overlook and a boating-lake with splendid Giant Amazon Lily pads. The most touted attraction is the 250-year-old ‘world’s largest banyan tree’. However,the central trunk rotted away in the 1920s, leaving a disappointing array of cross-branches and linked aerial roots that have become virtual trees of their own. The banyan is five minutes’ walk from the park’s Bicentenary Gate (Andul Rd) on bus route 55A or 25 minutes’ walk from the gardens’ main gate where bus 55 and minibus 6 terminate after a painfully slow drive from Esplanade (₹7) via Howrah. Taxis from Shakespeare Sarani charge around ₹90 via the elegant Vidyasagar Setu (Hooghly Suspension Bridge). SOUTH KOLKATA Kalighat Temple HINDU TEMPLE (h5am-2pm & 4-10pm) This ancient Kali tem-

ple is Kolkata’s holiest spot for Hindus and possibly the source of the city’s name. Today’s version, a 1809 rebuild, has floral- and peacock-motif tiles that look more Victorian than Indian. More interesting than the

457

DURGA PUJA

architecture are the jostling pilgrim queues that snake into the main hall to fling hibiscus flowers at a crowned, three-eyed Kali image. There’s no need to join them to feel the atmosphere (loitering priests that oﬀer to whisk you to the front of the queue will expect a very hefty ‘donation’). Behind the bell pavilion but still within the mandir complex, goats are ritually beheaded to honour the ever-demanding goddess, or, as a local guide described it, to buy ‘God power’. The temple is hidden in a maze of alleys jammed with market stalls selling votive flowers, brassware, religious artefacts and pictures of Kali. From Kalighat metro station (with its four-storey Mother Teresa mosaic) walk towards the putrid Tolisnala Stream where Shanagar Burning Ghat (Map p458) hosts an impressive gaggle of monuments celebrating those cremated here. Turn north up Tollygunge Rd which becomes Kalighat Rd after one block. The temple is to the right down the footpath beside Nirmal Hriday (Map p458; 251 Kalighat Rd). That’s Mother Teresa’s world famous, if surprisingly small, home for the dying, its roof-corners pimpled with neo-Mughal mini-domes. Further north up lively Kalighat Rd, after it curves across Hazra Rd, you’ll find numerous image makers: less famous but almost as intriguing as those in Kumartuli (p455). Rabindra Sarovar PARK (Map p458) The parkland here is less beau-

tiful than Kolkata’s Botanical Gardens but at dawn the lake prettily reflects the hazy

sunrise while middle class Kolkatans jog, row and meditate. Some form circles to do group-yoga routines culminating in ho-ho ha-ha-ha laugh-ins; these are the informal Laughing Clubs (h6-7am), engagingly described by Tony Hawks in The Weekenders: Adventures in Calcutta. Even if forced, a good giggle can be refreshingly therapeutic. Alipore

AREA

First opened in 1875, Kolkata’s 16-hectare zoo

(Map p458; Alipore Rd; admission ₹10; h9am-5pm Fri-Wed) includes lawns and lakeside prom-

enades that are very popular with weekend picnickers, hence all the rubbish. Some enclosures are more confined than others but reconstruction works were underway during research both here and across the road at the sorry little aquarium (Map p458; admission ₹3; h10.30am-5pm Fri-Wed). Bus 230 from Rabindra Sadan passes outside. Directly south of the zoo entrance, the (private) access road to India’s National Library (www.nlindia.org) loops around the very regal Curzon Mansion (Map p458), once the colonial Viceroy’s residence. Around 1km southeast, the delightful Horticultural Gardens (admission ₹10; h6-10am & 2-7pm) oﬀer some respite from the traﬃc rumble. Gariahat

AREA

This wealthy area isn’t really a tourist draw but has a good scattering of restaurants and shops. There’s also the large, distinctive 20thcentury Birla Mandir (Map p458; Gariahat Rd; h6-11am & 4.30-9pm).

S I G H ATA T S (CALCUT TA) S I G H T S KOLK

Much as Carnival transforms Rio or New Orleans, Durga Puja brings Kolkata even more colourfully to life. For five days people venerate gaudily painted idols of the 10-armed goddess Durga and her entourage displayed in pandals (temporary shrines) that dominate yards, block roads or fill little parks. In the last 30 years, design competitions and increasing corporate sponsorship have seen pandals growing ever more ornate and complex, some with topical or political messages. West Bengal Tourism tours try to take tourists around a selection of the best pandals but getting anywhere within the city can take hours given the general festive pandemonium. At the festival’s climax, myriad Durga idols are thrown into the sacred Hooghly River amid singing, water throwing, fireworks and indescribable traﬃc congestion. If you just want pandal photos and not the festival aspect, consider visiting just after Durga Puja when the idol has gone but pandals have yet to be deconstructed. Or come back for Kali Puja three weeks later when the city does the whole thing all over again, this time with statues of blue-faced, red-tongued Kali. And for months to come there are many alternative pujas. Many diaspora Bengalis return ‘home’ for Durga Puja so Kolkata hotels fill up. Hotels will be comparatively empty afterwards but at that stage many locals go away on holiday so getting air tickets out can be virtually impossible for a week or two (the tourist quota on train tickets can be a saviour).

66 6 66 6 6 6 6 6 666 6 6 666 e # 00

Southern Kolkata

# ¡

Rabindra 13 ÿ # Sarovar Ø 12 #

menter (www.experimenter.in; 2/1 Hindustan Rd;

(Map p458; www.cimaartindia.com; Sunny Towers, 2nd fl, 43 Ashutosh Chowdhury Rd; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat, 3-7pm Mon), a six-room gallery; Birla Academy of Art & Culture (Map p458; www .birlaart.com; 109 Southern Ave; h4-7pm Tue-Sun); and Ganges Gallery (Map p458; www.gangesart .net; 33A Jatin Das Rd; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat).

Activities

Cooking Kali Travel Home (www.traveleastindia.com; ₹550-750) arranges personal three-hour Ben-

gali cooking courses led by local women in their homes. Costs include food. Golf

A major plus of sleeping at the Tollygunge

Club (p462; www.thetollygungeclub.com; guest

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KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

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ALIPORE

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458

weekday/weekend ₹175/350) is the right to play on their magnificent golf course. The 1829 Royal Calcutta Golf Club

(%24731288; www.royalcalcuttagolfclub.com; 18 Golf Club Rd), the world’s oldest outside Brit-

ain, allows foreign nonmembers to play a round for US$50. Volunteering

Several organisations welcome foreign volunteers with specific skills (see p41). Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity (p448) welcomes all comers. Yoga

There are five-day courses at varying locations with Art of Living (www.artofliving.org,

http://artoflivingindia.in/courses.asp; aolkol@vsnl. net), plus holistic and therapeutic yoga with Vivekananda Yoga Anusandhana Samsthana (Map p458; %24241340; www.vyasacal .org; 69K Prince Bakhtiar Shah Rd).

459

Southern Kolkata æ Sights 1 Aquarium.................................................A1 2 Birla Academy of Art & Culture............ C3 3 Birla Mandir............................................ D2 4 CIMA ........................................................D1 5 Curzon Mansion......................................A1 6 Experimeneter ....................................... D3 7 Horticultural Gardens ........................... A2 8 Kalighat Temple..................................... B3 Nirmal Hriday.................................. (see 8) 9 Rabrindra Sarovar ................................. C4 10 Shanagar Burning Ghat ........................ B3 11 Zoo...........................................................A1

ÿ Sleeping 13 Bodhi Tree.............................................. B4

T Tours For excursions to the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve, see p477. City Tours

Personal, accompanied city-walks lasting around four hours are available through expat-run Kali Travel Home (%25550581,

9007778504; www.traveleastindia.com; ₹350-600) and youthful CalWalks (%9830184030; www .calcuttawalks.com; from ₹1200). Both are en-

thusiastic and flexible as to the area covered and both oﬀer a range of alternative Kolkata experiences. Best known for their mangrove boat trips,

Backpackers (Map p450; %9836177140; www .tourdesundarbans.com; Tottee Ln) also oﬀer in-

novative two-part city tours on the back of a motorbike (₹1500). Tours drive past several well-known sites and add curiosities like Kolkata’s giant trash-mountain, Tangra Chinatown, a burning ghat, a Shiva temple (join the prayers) and a brief drive through the red-light district. Longer car tours (₹3000 per person) visit Belur Math and Dakshineswar then continue up the Hooghly as far as Bansberia’s Kremlin-styled palace temple. West Bengal Tourism (Map p452;

%22437260, westbengaltourism.gov.in; 3/2 BBD Bagh; h10.30am-1.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri,

10.30am-1pm Sat) runs full-day sightseeing bus tours (₹250; h8.30am). They’re a relative

bargain but give only sweaty, drive-by

û Drinking 17 Mirch Masala ..........................................D2 ý Entertainment 18 Basement................................................ C1 19 Ginger......................................................B2 þ Shopping 20 Dakshinapan Shopping Centre .............D4 21 Seagull Bookstore..................................B2 Information 22 German Consulate .................................A2 23 Mizoram State Office.............................D2 24 Myanmar Consulate ..............................D2 25 National Library...................................... A1

glimpses of most sights and rush you round Belur Math and Dakshineswar in barely half an hour apiece. The oﬃce opens at 7am to sell last-minute tickets. Trips might be cancelled if there are less than 10 customers (least likely on Sundays).

4 Sleeping Looks can be deceptive. Some eye-catchingly smart facades mask lacklustre, mustily disappointing rooms. Other very survivable places are hidden within buildings that look like crumbling wrecks. Decent hotel accommodation in Kolkata often costs about the same as in Europe. So if you want to pay under ₹400 for a room, don’t expect to enjoy the experience. Even in many midrange hotels peeling paint, loose wires, battered furniture and damp patches come as standard. Much of Kolkata’s rock-bottom accommodation represents ‘a whole new league of nastiness’, and where we review such cheapies be aware that we’re usually identifying the least objectionable options rather than making a recommendation: consider putting a mat on the bed to reduce bed-bug bites. Many cheaper hotels lock their gates by midnight. AC hotels add 10% luxury tax (5% on cheaper rooms) and some tack on further service charges. For fairness we quote total prices. Most places charging under ₹1000 won’t take bookings. Top-end places are often

TO U RATA S (CALCUT TA) TO U R S KOLK

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 12 Vivekananda Yoga Anusandhana Samsthana ................. B4

ú Eating 14 6 Ballygunge Place.................................D2 15 Bhojohori Manna (Branch 6).................D3 16 Bhojohori Manna (Ekdalia)....................D3

460

very significantly discounted on websites like www.yatra.com and www.agoda.com.

rates the lack of a lift, the limited views and a ₹500 internet charge are less forgivable.

SUDDER ST AREA

Housez 43 HOTEL $$ (Map p450; %22276020; www.housez43.com; 43 Mirza Ghalib St; s/deluxe/luxury ₹2625/3150/4400; aW) Bright colours, funky lamps and odd-

The nearest Kolkata gets to a backpacker ghetto is the area around Sudder St. It’s the only place in town to suﬀer much beggar hassle and many of the buildings are decrepit but the location is brilliantly central, there’s a range of traveller-oriented services and it’s about the only area in Kolkata where ultracheap dives accept foreigners. There’s also a growing scattering of higher-end options.

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

Oberoi Grand HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (Map p450; %22492323; www.oberoikolkata.com; 15 Chowringhee Rd; s/d/ste from ₹19,900/22,550/ 38,500; aiWs) Passing through the almost

hidden courtyard gateway, you’re transported from the chaos of Chowringhee Rd into a regal oasis of genteel calm that deserves every point on its five stars. Immaculate accommodation oozes atmosphere, the swimming pool is ringed with palms and proactive staﬀ anticipate your every need. Ashreen Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p450; %22520889; ashreen_guesthouse@yahoo.com; 2 Cowie Lane; d ₹495-845; a) One of Kol-

kata’s best value mini-hotels, the rooms are small but sparkling clean with sometimesfunctioning geysers and many playful interior touches. There’s often a waiting list. Across the road, the co-managed Afridi International is less impressive. Fairlawn Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p450; %22521510; www.fairlawnhotel.com; 13A Sudder St; s/d incl breakfast ₹2721/3322; a)

Taking guests since 1936, the Fairlawn is a characterful 1783 Raj-era home fronted by tropical greenery. The stairs and sitting room are smothered with photos, family mementos and articles celebrating the hotel’s nonagenarian owner. While not luxurious, most rooms are spacious and well equipped with re-tiled bathrooms (some old tubs remain). At least one of the cheaper downstairs rooms (s/d ₹2326/2880) has limited natural light and startling pink decor.

Bawa Walson HOTEL $$ (Map p450; %22521512; bawawalson@bawa hotels.com;5ASudderSt;rdiscount/fullfrom₹3000/ 5750; a) Sudder Street’s sexiest new addi-

tion comes with back-lit panels, luxurious box-spring mattresses, selected toiletries and flat-screen TVs. When finished there’ll be a spa across the fairly lit courtyard. It’s good value when discounted but at full rack

shaped mirrors bring character to this handily central boutique hotel, though cheaper rooms are less impressive than the bold public spaces.

Sunflower Guest House GUESTHOUSE (Map p450; %22299401; 5th fl, 7 Royd St; d/ tr from ₹750/900; a) Slightly spartan but

Bhagirathi Guest House GUESTHOUSE (Map p450; %9836993678; Sudder St; old/new d ₹650/850, tr 1300; a) Entered from the

Lytton Hotel HOTEL (Map p450; %39841900; www.lytton hotelindia.com; 14 Sudder St; s/d/tr/ste ₹5280/6050/6930/8030; a) This solid

Hotel Aafreen GUESTHOUSE (Map p450; %22654146; Nawab Abdur Rahman St; d with fan/AC ₹500/750; a) Offering

Aafreen Tower GUESTHOUSE (Map p450; %22293280; www.aafreentower. com; 9A Kyd St; d with fan/AC ₹600/990; a)

fresh and assiduously cleaned with high ceilings and ample communal space, the Sunflower occupies much of a once-grand 1865 building that’s attractive but was rated as a potential fire hazard in a 2010 Calcutta Telegraph article. To check in, take the 1940s lift to the top and cross the little roof garden.

same courtyard as the Super Guest House, this all-AC guesthouse can be great value if you score one of the five newer rooms with windows, new paintwork, clean tiled floors and piping hot water. Other rooms are windowless and those across the courtyard are more dated.

midrange choice has a dark, slightly dated lobby but Tiffany-style panels enliven the corridors and rooms have received a gently contemporary revamp including good modern bathrooms. Room sizes vary significantly.

midrange quality at budget prices, the Aafreen’s paintwork is mostly intact, staff are obliging and freshly tiled bathrooms have hot water. The lift is temperamental.

The glass elevator creaks a little and the bright orange-and-gold corridors are being patched up, but if repairs are fully followed through, this should once again be a recommended choice.

Hotel Galaxy GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p450; Stuart Lane; r with fan/AC ₹500/800; a) This ageing mansion-block has had

Lodge has a more homely feel than most other ultra-budget dives, with an idiosyncratic courtyard, 1st-floor sitting room, old teak doors and peaceful roof terrace. But the bed-spaces are as ragged as ever; many are haphazardly subdivided and without power-points. Management seems erratic.

The Corporate HOTEL $$ (Map p450; %22267551; www.thecorporatekolkata. com; 4 Royd St; r from ₹4400; a) In this ca-

Hotel Pushpak GUESTHOUSE, HOSTEL $ (Map p450; %22265841; www.hotelpushpakinter national.com; 10 Kyd St; dm/s/d ₹300/1260/1470; a) Ocean-liner corridors lead to rooms

its high-ceilinged rooms well upgraded with shiny floor tiles and hot water in the sizeable bathroom, at least those we saw. Bookings aren’t possible and guests tend to stay a while.

pable cube of stone and glass, the cheaper rooms are sometimes bigger than ₹4950 ‘executive’ ones. Wi-fi is ‘being installed’.

an unpromisingly aged house lead to six unexpectedly neat rooms with new tiled floors and multilingual TV. Staff are friendly and helpful.

Hotel VIP InterContinental GUESTHOUSE (Map p450; %22520150; vipintercontinental@ rediffmail.com; 44 Mirza Ghalib St; s/d from ₹1120/1575, super-deluxe r ₹2310; aW) Be-

toilets tucked in what appears to be a cupboard. AC rooms are larger but no lovelier. Three large 4th-floor bunk-dorms are nominally sex-segregated, have under-bed safe-boxes (bring a padlock) with shared showers and toilets on the open terrace. Stairs seem dangerously half-collapsed and some mattresses have proved itchy.

hind the one-desk reception, friendly VIP InterContinental has a selection of small to very small rooms but all are well airconditioned, carefully maintained, have hot water and stone or tiled floors. Don’t confuse it with the nearby Hotel VIP Continental whose dashing foyer hides sorry corridors and pricey modern rooms spoilt by sickening wall-stains.

CITY CENTRE

Timestar Hotel GUESTHOUSE (Map p450; %22528028; 2 Tottie Lane; s/d/ tr from ₹250/350/475, d with AC ₹750) This

Paragon Hotel BACKPACKER DIVE (Map p450; 2 Stuart Lane; dm ₹120, s/d without bathroom from ₹200/270, d with shower ₹350)

chunky-walled colonial-era mansion has tatty elements but well-tiled floors and high enough ceilings in the upstairs rooms that they don’t overheat too badly. Two rooms now have air-conditioning, repainted walls and decent bathrooms.

Some of the coffin-box rooms are so spirit-crushing that the graffiti is actually an improvement. However, a few battered chairs on the rooftop create a great place to hang out with fellow backpackers and staff are friendlier here than at the essentially similar Hotel Maria next door. Bring your own padlock. Modern Lodge BACKPACKER DIVE (Map p450; 1 Stuart Lane; s ₹100-150, d₹200300) It isn’t modern at all but Modern

Centrepoint Guest House BACKPACKER DIVE $ (Map p450; %22520953; ian_rashid@yahoo.com; 20 Mirza Ghalib St; dm ₹100, s/d from ₹400/450; a) Fan rooms are bare-bones boxes with

oChrome

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$

(Map p446; %30963096; www.chromehotel.in; 226 AJC Bose Rd; s/d from ₹8800/9350; aW) Sleep in

a brilliantly executed artistic statement that looks like a seven-storey Swiss cheese by day and a colour-pulsing alien communicator by night. Rooms have optical illusion decor, the 5th-floor landing hides a mini-library and a rooftop pool is under construction. Bleeping music masks traﬃc noise. Park Hotel HOTEL $$$ (Map p450; %22499000; www.theparkhotels. com; 17 Park St; s/d from ₹13,200/15,400; aiWs) Perfectly central and hosting

much of the city’s nightlife, two of the Park’s pricier floors use very stylish blackon-black decor while ‘Residency’ floors go for a more classical feel. Annoyances include reverberating music on the lower floors that can disturb light sleepers and a front desk where staﬀ seem constantly over-stretched. The small, colourfully stylish foyer entrance is accessed bizarrely by walking through a cafe-deli.

S L E E ATA P I N G(CALCUT TA) S L E E P I N G KOLK

Hotel Pioneer International GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p450; 1st fl, 1 Marquis St; d without/with AC ₹400/600) Wobbly wooden stairs within

that are mostly lacklustre and a little worn but an interesting feature here is the new 28-bed AC dorm, each bunk with lockers above and beneath (some already broken), lamp, fan and curtains for minimal privacy. Shared bathrooms include geyser showers.

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Allenby Inn GUESTHOUSE $$ (Map p446; %24869984; allenbyinn@vsnl.net; 1/2 Allenby Rd; r ₹3300; ai) With fashion-

able trimmings and lashings of abstract art, some of the 20 rooms are very large, though towels could be softer and mattresses thicker. Two 5th-floor rooms share a dining area and small kitchen.

Golden Park HOTEL $$ (Map p446; %22883939; www.thegoldenpark.com; 13 Ho Chi Minh Sarani; s/d ₹8800/9900, discount rate ₹5500/6500; a) The Golden Park is very

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

fair value by central Kolkata standards with typical business-hotel amenities in the regularly upgraded if modestly sized rooms. The eccentric four-storey lobby-atrium features oddly mismatched nymphs, wood panelling, glass elevators and a vast Shakespeareversus-Zoroaster relief.

Hotel Aston HOTEL $$ (Map p446; %24863145; hotelaston@gmail.com; 3 Aston Rd; s/d ₹1495/1610; ai) Compact but at-

tractive all-AC rooms with marble floors and decor that’s far better than most Kolkata options at this price level. It’s just oﬀ Sarat Bose Rd near the Laxmi Narayan Mandir.

Kenilworth HOTEL $$$ (Map p446; %22823939; www.kenilworthhotels.com /kolkata; 1 Little Russell St; s/d/ste ₹9900/11,000/ 17,600; a) The deep lobby of marble, dark

wood and chandeliers contrasts successfully with a more contemporary cafe that spills out onto an attractive lawn. Pleasing, fully equipped rooms have thick mattresses, restrained sunny colour schemes and large mirrors. Discount rates from ₹7000 are often available. Five suites lead off an impressive landing in an old mansion opposite but don’t quite pull off the full ‘heritage’ effect.

Astor HOTEL $$ (Map p446; %22829950; www.astorkolkata.com; 15 Shakespeare Sarani; s/d from ₹4725/6600; a) Artful evening floodlighting brings out

the best of the Astor’s solid 1905 architecture, while some floors are quaintly uneven and stairways have original wrought-iron banisters. But while some rooms have attractive three-colour woodwork, the floral bedspreads maintain that nursing-home feel. A few singles are windowless. Look for discount deals. BBD BAGH AREA

There’s no traveller scene here but the following options are handy for Chandni Chowk metro and fair value by Kolkata standards.

Esplanade Chambers GUESTHOUSE $$ (Map p452; %22127101; www.esplanadecham bers.com; 2 Chandni Chowk St; s/d/ste with fan ₹700/900/1000, with AC ₹900/1500/1800; aW)

These two floors of former apartments are more homestay than hotel. Rooms vary wildly from unadorned claustrophobic singles to comfortable ‘executive’ mini-suites complete with ornaments, wooden bed– frames and even a circular bathtub in the best room. There are a few minor cleaning issues but prices include wi-fi (best downstairs), breakfast, hot water and toiletries. Access is via a narrow alley beside Gypsy Restaurant.

Bengal Buddhist Association GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p452; Bauddha Dharmankur Sabha; %22117138; http://bengalbuddhist.com/guest-house.html; bds1892@yahoo.com; Buddhist Temple Rd; tw from ₹250; a) Although intended for Buddhist stu-

dents, anyone can rent these simple rooms which have plenty of cobwebs without being unduly dirty. Shared bathrooms are basic but have geysers. Three rooms have AC, two with private bathrooms. The courtyard location is quiet; gates are locked from 10.30pm to 5am. Broadway Hotel HOTEL $ (Map p452; %22363930; www.broadwayhotel.in; 27A Ganesh Chandra Ave; s/d/tr/ste ₹580/625/925/1125, without bathroom s/d ₹480/565) This simple but

well-maintained old hotel has an antiquated lift, ’50s furniture and classic bar downstairs. Most rooms are generously large with high ceilings, and corner rooms oﬀer plenty of light. The free newspaper under the door is a nice touch. It’s clean and great value but noisy and showers are cold. OUTER KOLKATA

Due to distant locations and lack of convenient transport links, we don’t review several of the city’s top business hotels including the impressive Hyatt Regency (http:// kolkata.regency.hyatt.com), eco-friendly Sonar (www.itcwelcomgroup.in/hotels/itcsonar.aspx) and the antique-softened 1990s Taj Bengal (www.tajhotels.com).

oTollygunge Club

GUESTHOUSE $$

(%24732316; www.thetollygungeclub.org; d/cottage/ste ₹4412/4743/5074; Was) The Tolly’s

idyllic setting with mature tropical trees, roosting birds and velvet-smooth golf greens creates a mind-boggling contrast to the deafening chaos of surrounding Kolkata. All guest rooms are sparkling clean but while

some have functional motel-style decor, others have been very stylishly revamped to the standards of a boutique hotel. Guests get temporary membership allowing access to all club sports and entertainment facilities including otherwise exclusive colonial-era bar-cafes and (except Monday) the wonderful golf course. It’s a 10-minute walk from Tollygunge metro. Book ahead. Bodhi Tree GUESTHOUSE $$ (Map p458; %24243871, 24246534; www.bodhi treekolkata.com; 48/44 Swiss Park; r incl breakfast ₹2200-4000; aW) Well-travelled owners dub Bodhi Tree’s intriguing little gallerycafe (h2pm-7pm Tue-Sun) a ‘monastery of

AIRPORT AREA

An accommodation booth in the airport’s domestic terminal lists numerous ‘airport area’ hotels but most decent options are over 2km away down VIP Rd. There is a selection of cheaper places (fan/AC from ₹350/750) on Jessore Rd between Airport Gates 1 and 2 and in the side lanes behind. However, virtually all of the latter seem overpriced and grimy while rooms facing Jessore Rd suﬀer particularly serious street noise. Of the dozen that we checked, none could be wholeheartedly recommended. Better than most, if slightly past its prime, is White Palace (%25117402; 28/1 Italgacha Rd; s ₹1100-1430, d ₹1210-1650; a), facing Om Lodge (on the street that leads oﬀ Jessore Rd nearly opposite the Bharat Petrol Station, close to Airport Gate 1).

5 Eating Most restaurants add 12.5% tax to bills. A few posher places add further ‘service charges’. Tips are welcome at cheaper places and expected at most expensive restaurants. The Times Food Guide (www.timescity.com/ kolkata; ₹100) oﬀers hundreds of restaurant reviews. Don’t miss sampling Bengali cuisine. At its best it’s a wonderful discovery with a whole new vocabulary of names and flavours. In cheaper Bengali places, portions are often tapas-sized so order two or three dishes along with rice/luchi and sweet khejur (chutney).

A few basic traveller cafes around Sudder St serve backpacker favourites like banana pancakes, muesli and toasted sandwiches complemented by fresh fruit juices and a range of good-value Indian dishes. Eateries across Mirza Ghalib St cater predominantly to Bangladeshi tastes. Cheap places for Indian-regional food lie around Hogg Market with many more food stalls lining Madge Lane, Bertram St, and Humayan Pl where fast food chains join vendors of dosas, chow mein and fresh juices. For more upmarket fare try Jong’s, the hotel restaurants at the Oberoi and Peerless Inn or walk ten minutes south to Park Street where you’ll find many of Kolkata’s age-old family favourites facing oﬀ with KFC and a beef-free McDonald’s. AROUND SUDDER ST

Raj’s Spanish Cafe CAFE $ (Map p450; Taberna Vasca; oﬀ Sudder St; mains 25150; h7.30am-10pm; W) Excellent coﬀee, juices,

pancakes and ₹25 wi-fi (plenty of powerpoints too) makes this a great traveller cafe hang-out. The menu includes a small but very well made selection of Spanish dishes (tortilla, pisto manchego) and delicious pesto-pasta (₹90). Decor is simple but welcoming with a cushioned sitting space and a small outdoor area.

Sidheshwari Ashram BENGALI $ (Map p450; 19 Rani Rashmoni Rd; mains ₹3-70, h9am-4pm & 7pm-11pm) In this old-fashioned

eating house, walls are a little grubby, little English is spoken and if you come around noon you’ll have to fight for one of the old stone-topped tables. But in return you’ll get truly excellent Bengali food at bargain local prices. Ideally bring a local friend to help you choose. It’s not far from Sudder St but easily missed set back between shops then up an unlikely stairway. Khub bhalo!

Jong’s/Zaranj EAST ASIAN, INDIAN $$$ (Map p450; %22490369; Sudder St; mains ₹400840; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Wed-Mon) Two

suave if pricey restaurants in one. Jong’s serves Chinese, under-spiced Thai and other Asian cuisines in a magnificently woodpanelled room that feels like a Raj-oriental gentleman’s club. Smart-casual Zaranj has a more modern vibe and takes the taste-buds on a gourmet tour of India. Some meals include rice but with most it’s ₹100 extra.

Blue & Beyond MULTICUISINE $$ (Map p450; 9th fl, Lindsay Hotel, Lindsay St; mains ₹120-190; h11am-11pm) The open-air rooftop

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E AT I NATA G (CALCUT TA) E AT I N G KOLK

art’. Above, five uniquely characterful Buddha-themed rooms come with stone walls and decent facilities. Bathrooms aren’t as memorable and the cheapest room is pretty cramped but the suburban location is under 10 minutes’ stroll from Rabrindra Sarovar metro (walk east from behind the southeast exit and keep going).

UPPER CHOWRINGHEE AREA

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terrace oﬀers views over New Market and there’s a well air-conditioned dining room in case rain or excessive heat make sitting there impractical. A wide-ranging menu encompasses Bengali fish dishes, Irish stew and ratatouille at prices that are very reasonable for a restaurant that’s licensed to serve alcohol. Blue Sky Cafe CAFE (Map p450; Chowringhee Lane; snacks ₹22-60, mains ₹50-195; h6.30am-10.30pm) A vast se-

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

lection of reliable traveller standbys served in an almost stylish setting with highbacked zinc chairs at long glass tables. Tiny, unadorned Fresh & Juicy across the road is arguably even better value but gets sweaty with just five cramped tables. Super Chicken TRAVELLER CAFE $ (Map p450; Sudder St; mains ₹40-100; h8.30am11.30pm) Succulent tandoori tops off a

decent menu of tempting backpacker faves in this small but bright, well airconditioned room.

Prince BENGALI (Map p450; 17 Mirza Ghalib St; dishes ₹12-120; h7.30am-11pm) Air-conditioned place for

eat-with-hands, unpretentious Bengali food aimed primarily at the area’s Bangladeshi visitors. Two doors away, Radhuni is very similar. Both are neater but less satisfying than Sidheshwari Ashram.

Aminia MUGHLAI (Map p450; Hogg St; mains ₹50-84; h10.30am10.30pm) Ceiling fans whirr above this

brightly lit cacophonous classic where decor is vaguely art deco, service is rapid and local women dine unchaperoned. For better biriyanis you might prefer Arsalan or Shiraz . Hotel Mastan INDIAN $ (Map p450; Unit H6, 37 Hogg Market; mains ₹7-35; h6am-11.30pm) Craving beef on a budget?

Dare yourself to visit the ‘pious man’, barely changed since 1941. The soot-darkened interior looks seriously off-putting but for four generations the Sufi-inspired Haider family have been serving up cheap yet fresh meals including bhuna curried beef (₹32 with rice).

Kathleen Confectioners BAKERY $ (Map p450; 12 Mirza Ghalib St; snacks ₹12-35; h9am-10pm) Their sickly sweet cakes aren’t

exactly the promised ‘Taste of Hapinezz’ but savoury pastries are delicious. Numerous alternative branches.

PARK ST AREA

Fire and Ice ITALIAN $$$ (Map p446; %22884073; www.fireandicepizzeria. com; Kanak Bldg, Middleton St; mains ₹290-550, hnoon-11.15pm) Self-consciously handsome

wait-staﬀ sporting black shirts and bandannas bring forth real Italian pastas, and pizzas whose fresh-baked thin crusts are Kolkata’s best.

Arsalan MUGHLAI $$ (Map p450; 119A Ripon St; mains ₹95-205; hnoon11.30pm) The decor is striking and contem-

porary without being upmarket. The high ceilings with gilt insets contrast with plain tables at which the main attractions are melt-in-mouth chicken tikka and celebrated biriyanis that come with a free palette of extras (lemon, chilli, onion, mint chutney).

Teej RAJASTHANI $$$ (Map p450; %22170730; www.teej.in; 1st fl, 2 Russell St; mains ₹145-255, thalis ₹338-450; hnoon-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) Superbly painted with Mughal-

style murals, the interior feels like an ornate Rajasthani haveli (traditional residence) and the excellent, 100% vegetarian food is predominantly Rajasthani, too. Downstairs, much cheaper if stylistically neutral Gangaur serves dosas and ₹124 thalis in AC comfort.

Shiraz MUGHLAI $$ (Map p446; 135 Park St; mains ₹75-125; h5am11.30pm) Synonymous with Kolkata biriyani,

the Shiraz also oﬀers a range of curries and a mutton chaap (rib-meat dish) of rare subtlety and succulence. The location is handy if you’re visiting South Park St Cemetery.

Peter Cat MULTICUISINE $$ (Map p450; Middleton Row; mains ₹116-200; h11am-11.15pm) This phenomenally popular

Kolkata institution oﬀers fizzing sizzlers, great chelo-kebabs (barbecued ground lamb) and beers in pewter tankards. Waiters wear Rajasthani costumes in an atmosphere redolent of a mood-lit 1970s steakhouse. Reservations aren’t accepted; queues are often long but sociable. Across Park St, Mocambo is similarly dated yet ever-popular. Bar-B-Q INDIAN, CHINESE $$ (Map p450; 1st fl, 43 Park St; mains ₹130-208; hnoon-4.30pm & 7-11.15pm) Three inter-

connected dining rooms oﬀer diﬀerent but similar menus in this enduring family favourite that features sloping ceilings held on polished wooden pillars, buzzing conversation and an ever-witty maître d’.

Marco Polo MULTICUISINE $$$ (Map p450; %22273939; 24 Park St; mains ₹250-475; h1.30-11pm) Stylish and moodily

under-lit, this split-level restaurant takes diners on a culinary world tour from Bengal to Italy via Goa, China and Lebanon.

CITY CENTRE

As well as the places reviewed there are dining options scattered around Camac St, Shakespeare Sarani and in the Forum Mall (Elgin St), plus three cheap Tibetan eateries at Momo corner (cnr Suburban Hospital Rd & Chowringhee Rd).

vited to a dinner party in the chef’s eclectic, gently old-fashioned home (avoid the charmless annex-room, via the north door). First-rate Bengali food comes in small but fairly priced portions. Minimum spend is ₹250 per person. Oh! Calcutta BENGALI $$$ (Map p446; %22837161; 4th fl, Forum Mall, Elgin Rd; mains ₹280-460; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm)

Shutter-edged mirror ‘windows’, bookshelves and B&W photography create a casually upmarket atmosphere in this suave if pricey Bengali-fusion restaurant. Luchi (₹102 for six) are feather-light, and fresh lime brings out the subtleties of koraishatir dhokar dalna (pea-cakes in ginger, ₹312). Drive Inn MULTICUISINE (Map p446; 10 Middleton St; mains ₹46-82; h10.30am-10pm) Sandwiches, thukpa

(Tibetan noodle-soup), curries and pizza served in a modest open-air ‘garden’ with simple fan-pavilion tables, mosaic backdrops and a trio of metal musicians fashioned from scrap metal and bicycle chains. Good value thalis (from ₹75) available except Sundays. No meat.

Mainland China CHINESE $$$ (Map p446; %22837964; www.mainlandchinaindia. com/contact_kolkata.html; 3A Gurusaday Rd; mains

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Kookie Jar BAKERY $ (Map p446; Rowden St; pastries ₹20-60; h8am10pm) Kolkata’s most heavenly cakes and

fudge brownies (₹40) along with multigrain bread (₹50) and various wraps and fluffy pastries. Take-away only. Haldiram FAST FOOD (Map p446; 58 Chowringhee Rd; h8am-10pm)

Chain eatery with great value pay-thenqueue vegetarian thalis (₹70), dosas (from ₹36), burgers (₹32) and Bengali sweets. Jalapenos MEXICAN $$ (Map p446; %22820204; 10 Wood St; mains ₹85250; h11.30am-10.15pm; a) High-ceilinged

with mock wooden beams and little spicebottle alcoves, their ‘Mexican’ dishes are enjoyable albeit almost unrecognisable.

BBD BAGH AREA Song Hay CHINESE (Map p452; %22480974; 3 Waterloo St; lunches ₹25-75, dinner mains ₹50-110; h11am-10.30pm)

This modest but prize-winning restaurant cooks authentic Chinese food at prices that are especially reasonable before 5pm when half-priced, half-size portions are available.

Amber/Essence MULTICUISINE $$ (Map p452; %22483477; 2nd fl, 11 Waterloo St; mains ₹130-350; h1.30-11pm) This pleasantly

semi-trendy middle-class restaurant has back-lit panels and triangular lamp niches but music can get a little oppressive at night and their signature brain masala isn’t to everyone’s taste. Another branch on Middleton Row.

Anand SOUTH INDIAN $ (Map p452; %22128344; 19 CR Ave; dosas ₹3286; h9am-9.30pm, closed Wed) Prize-winning

pure-veg dosas served in a well-kept if

KATI ROLLS Bengal’s trademark fast food is the kati roll: take a paratha roti, fry it with a coating of egg then fill with sliced onions, chilli and your choice of stuﬃng (curried chicken, grilled meat or paneer). Roll it up in a twist of paper and it’s ready to eat, generally on the street from hole-in-the-wall serveries. Standards vary considerably but a classic is Hot Kati Rolls (Map p450; 1/1 Park St; rolls ₹13-60; h11am-10.30pm).

E AT I NATA G (CALCUT TA) E AT I N G KOLK

Kewpies BENGALI $$ (Map p446; %24861600; 2 Elgin Lane; most dishes ₹73-175, thalis ₹250-540; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun) Dining at Kewpies feels like being in-

₹375-590; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm)

Consistent, upmarket Chinese food in sophisticated surroundings. Reservations advised. Lunch buffet weekday/weekend ₹482/590.

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old-fashioned family restaurant with bamboo and mirror-tiled ceilings. KC Das SWEETS $ (Map p452; Lenin Sarani; sweets ₹3-16; h7.30am9.30pm) Though visually uninteresting, this

historic Bengali sweet shop claims to have invented rasgulla (rosewater-scented cheese balls) in 1868. Basic seating available. GARIAHAT AREA Bhojohari Manna BENGALI $ (www.bhojohorimanna.org; Branch 6 Map p458; %24663941; 18/1 Hindustan Rd; dishes ₹45-210; hnoon-10pm; Ekdalia Map p458; 9/18 Ekdalia Rd; dishes ₹20-190; hnoon-10pm) One of Kolkata’s

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

best respected chains for genuine if preprepared Bengali food, this is a fine place to try coconut-tempered chingri malaikari (₹145), a dish where the prawns are so big they speak lobster. The tiny original Ekdalia branch is jam-packed and basic, the only decor being sketches by the father of celebrated film director Satyajit Ray. The food is the same (but with more choice and higher prices) at the bigger, more inviting Branch 6 where the walls are adorned with a variety of musical instruments. A much more central branch very near KC Das is unpleasantly claustrophobic. 6 Ballygunge Place BENGALI $$ (Map p458; %24603922; 6 Ballygunge Pl; mains ₹85205; h12.30-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) In a sturdy

but not overly formal century-old mansion, lunchtime buﬀets (₹366) allow a good allround introduction to Bengali food with five main courses plus chutneys, rice and desserts. Minibus 118 from Jatin Das Park metro stops a block north on Bondel Rd.

Drinking

Most better bars are in hotels or restaurants. Cheaper places are usually dingy and overwhelmingly male-dominated with a penchant for over-loud music, often sung by scantily clad females. Plentiful branches of Starbuck -style chains Barista and Café Coﬀee Day (most appealingly on Wood St) make air-conditioned oases in which to sip a decent Americano, though coﬀee prices can vary substantially by location. A Kolkata delight is making street-side tea stops for ₹2 minicuppas served in disposable bhaar (environmentally friendly earthenware thimbles). CHOWRINGHEE AREA Anglo pubs Big Ben (Map p446; Kenilworth Hotel, 1 Little Russell St) and Someplace Else

(Map p450; Park Hotel, 17 Park St) showcase local

bands, predominantly rock oriented, without a cover charge. There are several other lively bars in and around the Park Hotel.

Fairlawn Hotel BAR (Map p450; 13A Sudder St; beers ₹110; h10am10pm) Half woodland, half Santa-grotto,

the small tropical garden of the historic Fairlawn Hotel is strung with fairy lights and plastic fruit. It’s great for a cold brew but doesn’t serve cocktails.

Urban Desi BAR (Map p446; 9th fl, 6 Camac St; small beers ₹95; hnoon-11pm, cover charge ₹200 after 4pm)

Low-key rooftop party lounge with shisha pipes to smoke, pool and table football to play and sofa seating. Admire the city panorama to trancy music that pulsates louder as the night wears on. There’s also a restaurant section with great silhouette views of Victoria Memorial.

Café Thé CAFE (Map p446; ICCR Bldg, 9A Ho Chi Minh Sarani; teas ₹30-75, snacks ₹40-160; h10am-9pm) Tea

house with bold, abstract-floral designs serving around 30 different teas including a mellow coconut-based Thai chai. No coffee or booze.

Flury’s CAFE (Map p450; www.flurysindia.com; Park St; coffees ₹80-150; h7.30am-9.45pm) This enticing art

deco palace is the classic place to nurse a good espresso or an iced-tea that comes layered like a tequila sunrise. The food is less reliable.

Ashalayam CAFE (www.ashalayam.org; 1st fl, 44 Mirza Ghalib St; coffee ₹6-15; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4pm Sat) Play chess at low wicker tables while

sipping cheap machine-frothed Nescafe in this calm, bright charity craft-shop.

Roxy BAR (Map p450; Park Hotel, 17 Park St; small beers ₹175; hfrom 6pm) Clockwork Orange retro-

futuristic atmosphere.

BBD BAGH AREA Broadway Bar BAR (Map p452; Broadway Hotel, 27A Ganesh Chandra Ave; small/standard beer ₹45/88; h11am10.30pm) Back-street Paris? Chicago 1930s?

Prague 1980s? This cavernous, unpretentious old-men’s pub defies easy parallels but has a compulsive left-bank fascination with cheap booze, 20 ceiling fans, grimy walls, marble floors and, thankfully, no music.

Rocks LIVE MUSIC (Map p452; 9 Waterloo St; beer from ₹120; h2pmmidnight) Three floors, three diﬀerent sets of

Bengali musical performers, but while some of the musicians are proficient, others sound like karaoke singers and all is played out at ear-splitting volume.

Floatel BAR, RESTAURANT (off Map p452; www.floatelhotel.com; Strand Rd; small/large beer ₹100/200; hbar 11am-10.30pm)

Wide river views are best before sunset but drinks are pricey whether in the thirdfloor restaurant or water-level Anchor Tavern (from 3pm).

half a taxi chassis and a North Indian menu presented like a gossip magazine combine to create an amusing ambience that feels like a Bollywood Tex-Mex joint. Take the lane beside Pantaloons department store and continue beyond Mirch Masala’s Chinese Restaurant. Kitchen closed 3pm to 7pm.

3 Entertainment Events and cultural happenings are announced in the Telegraph newspaper’s Metro section and the various listings brochures. Nightclubs

On Kolkata’s party nights (Wednesday, Friday and Saturday) clubs open till 2am or later. On other nights most are half empty and close at midnight. Note the diﬀerence between entry charge and cover charge: the latter can be recouped in drinks or food to the same value. Either is charged per couple. Women can sometimes enter free but single men (known as stags) are generally excluded and, except at Ginger, if admitted aren’t expected to dance without a female partner. Basement NIGHTCLUB (Map p458; Samilton Hotel, 25 Lansdowne Rd; small beers ₹100; live music Wed-Fri) Scoot

beneath the scooter to enter this cramped but convivial venue for DJ sets and live bands, with low ceilings, barrel tables and relatively cheap drinks.

Underground NIGHTCLUB (Map p446; HHI Hotel, AJC Bose Rd; cover ₹500, small beers ₹220) Small dance floor in

a pub-bar with Hard Rock Café—style elements.

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Kolkata’s top club, contemporary sounds throb through the single dance floor and not-so-chilled chill-out zone around a central-island bar with an overhead observation bridge.

Venom NIGHTCLUB (Map p446; 8th fl, Fort Knox, 6 Camac St; cover charge ₹500-1000 Sat, small beers ₹175; hclosed Tue) Oscillating bars of vertical red light

makes it feel like you’re dancing in a giant 1970s amplifier. Musical styles vary.

Ginger NIGHTCLUB (Map p458; 104 SP Mukherjee Rd; cover ₹500, small beers ₹190; h8pm-2am Fri-Sun; mJatin Das Park) A majority male clientele whoop

to 1990s dance hits, ‘stags’ are admitted and it’s modestly gay friendly.

Hops NIGHTCLUB (2nd fl, South City Mall; small beers ₹170; hDJs 8pm-midnight) This relatively suave lounge-

restaurant goes disco from 8pm with a dance floor beneath a stylised cave of wooden layers. No cover, ‘stags’ allowed (for now).

Cultural Programs Nandan Complex CULTURAL CENTRE (Map p446; 1/1A AJC Bose Rd) Comprises theatre halls Rabindra Sadan (%22239936) and Sisir Mancha (%22235317), plus the arthouse Nandan Cinema (%22231210). ICCR CULTURAL CENTRE (Map p446; %22872680; www.iccrindia.org; 9A Ho Chi Minh Sarani) State-of-the-art new cultural

centre hosting exhibitions and interesting, if sporadic, dance shows and recitals that are often free but rarely well publicised.

Cinema Inox Elgin Rd CINEMA (Map p446; www.inoxmovies.com; Forum Shopping Mall, 10/3 Elgin Rd; tickets ₹110-260) One

of several modern multiplex cinemas, bookable online.

Pool/Snooker BQ’s Snooker SNOOKER (Map p450; off Mirza Ghalib St; pool/snooker ₹30/60; h10am-10pm) Four-table hall hid-

den at the rear of the Anihant Building. Spectator Sports

Even if you don’t know Ganguly from a googly, the electric atmosphere of a cricket

E N T EATA R TA I(CALCUT N M E N T TA) E N T E R TA I N M E N T KOLK

SOUTHERN KOLKATA Mirch Masala BAR, RESTAURANT (Map p458; Monoronjan Roy Sarani; beers/cocktail ₹110/115; hnoon-11pm) Old clocks, fake trees,

Tantra NIGHTCLUB (Map p450; Park Hotel, 17 Park St; entry ₹5001000, small beers ₹200) Often considered

468

match at Ranji Stadium (Map p452; Eden Gardens) is an unforgettable experience. For IPL fixtures see www.kkr.in. At Maidan racecourse (%22291104; www.

rctconline.com; Acharya Jagdish Rd; admission from ₹15; j36), you can watch some of India’s

best horse racing from 19th-century grandstands, with the Victoria Memorial providing a beautiful backdrop. Over 40 annual meets.

Shopping

Books

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

Several small traveller-oriented bookstalls huddle around the junction of Sudder St and Mirza Ghalib St (Map p450). For more choice visit the following. Classic Books/Earthcare Books BOOKSHOP (Map p446; www.earthcarebooks.com; 10 Middleton St; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun)

Family publisher-bookshop.

Crossword BOOKSHOP (Map p446; www.crosswordbookstores.com; 8 Elgin Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm) Three-storey

chain bookshop with cafe.

Oxford Bookstore BOOKSHOP (Map p450; www.oxfordbookstore.com; 17 Park St; h9.45am-10pm) Excellent full-range book-

shop with browse-seating and cafe.

Seagull Bookstore BOOKSHOP (Map p458; www.seagullindia.com; 31A SP Mukherjee Rd; h10.30am-7.30pm) Academic

bookshop with strengths in humanities, regional politics and social sciences. Clothing

Kolkata is great value for clothing, with pre-cut shirts costing under ₹100 from the Chowringhee Rd Hawkers’ Market (Map p450). Local tailors (Map p450) on Elliot Rd are less tourist-oriented than those around New Market. Fashion-conscious locals head to Hazra Rd and Gariahat. Crafts & Souvenirs

State-government emporia sell good-quality souvenirs at decent fixed prices, while several charity cooperatives allow you to feel good about your purchases. GOVERNMENT EMPORIA

Dakshinapan Shopping SHOPPING CENTRE Centre (Map p458; Gariahat Rd; h10.30am-7pm MonSat) It’s worth facing the soul-crushing

1970s architecture for Dakshinapan’s wide range of government emporia. There’s

plenty of tack but many shops oﬀer excellent-value souvenirs, crafts and fabrics. Kashmir Emporium (Shop F38) has colourful papier mâché boxes from ₹45, NEHHDC (F22) has interesting tribal crafts and ₹80 wind-flutes, Purbasha Tripura (F4) has bargain caneware from intricate lampshades to Marx and Lenin portraits. On the lower level don’t miss Dolly’s Tea Shop (G62; teas ₹25-50, snacks ₹23-90) where teak-panels, rattan chairs, tea-crate tables and the regal presence of matriarch Dolly create a charming little oasis that attracts a wonderfully eclectic clientele. Pragjyotika HANDICRAFTS (Map p446; Assam House, 8 Russell St; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2.30pm Sat)

Cane vases, jute handbags, pearls, fabrics and Assam tea.

Manjusha HANDICRAFTS (Map p446; 4 Camac St; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) Limited choice of West Bengal

handicrafts and fabrics. CHARITY COOPERATIVES

Ankur Kala SOUVENIRS (Map p446; www.ankurkala.org; 3 Meher Ali Rd; h10am-5pm) This cooperative training-

centre empowers women from the slums. The small shop sells batik, embroidered goods, greeting cards and leathergoods.

Nagaland Emporium SOUVENIRS (Map p446; 11 Shakespeare Sarani; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Naga crafts including

shawls and face necklaces for wannabe head-hunters.

Ashalayam HANDICRAFTS (Map p450; www.ashalayam.org; 1st fl, 44 Mirza Ghalib St; h10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4pm Sat) Buying cards, handmade paper and

fabrics funds the (ex)street kids who made them.

Karmyog HANDICRAFTS (Map p450; www.karmayog.org; 12B Russell St; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Elegant gallery of

paper products.

Musical Instruments

Shops and workshops along Rabindra Sarani sell a great range of musical instruments. For tablas and other percussion, try numbers 248, 264 and 268B near Tagore’s House (oﬀ Map p452). For sitars (from ₹4000) or violins (from ₹2000) visit Mondal & Sons (Map p452; 8 Rabindra Sarani; h10am-6pm MonFri, 10am-2.30pm Sat). Family-run since the

1850s, Mondal & Sons has counted Yehudi Menuhin among its satisfied customers.

8 Information

Internet Access Cyber Zoom (27B Park St; per hr ₹15; h9am11pm) E-Merge (iWay) (59B Park St; per hr ₹30; h10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-9.30pm Sun) Dated booths but good AC and fast connection. Gorukh (7 Sudder St; per hr ₹20; h8.30am10.30pm) At the back of a fabric shop with new flatscreens, pleasant owners and fingerprint security.

Money ATMs are widespread. Many private moneychangers around Sudder St oﬀer commissionfree exchange rates several per cent better than banks and some will exchange travellers cheques. Rates are often better around the corner in Mirza Ghalib St. Shop around and double-check the maths. At the airport be aware that moneychangers charge up to 5% tax/ commission. Globe Forex (Map p 446; 11 Ho Chi Minh Sarani; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat) City-centre exchange with unusually good rates for cash and travellers cheques. Permits For any permit bring your passport, passport photographs and photocopies of your passport identity page and Indian visa. FOREIGNERS’ REGISTRATION OFFICE (FRO; Map p 446; %22837034; 237 AJC Bose Rd; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri) Issues limited permits for Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh (but not Tawang) and Nagaland (Mon and Phek only) at ₹1395 per person per permit. Minimum group of four applicants usually required. Allow two working days. STATE OFFICES Indian nationals can get state-specific inner line permits at the following state oﬃces but, except for Sikkim, foreigners shouldn’t expect any permit help whatsoever. Arunachal Pradesh (%23341243; Arunachal Bhawan, Block CE 109, Sector 1, Salt Lake City) Manipur (Map p 446; %24758163; Manipur Bhawan, 26 Rowland Rd)

469

Photography Electro Photo-Lab (Map p 450; %22498743; 14 Sudder St; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sun) Instant passport photos, film-developing, digi-prints and camera-to-CD/DVD burning. Telephone If you’re a foreigner, getting a SIM card can be awkward in most of Kolkata but around Sudder St, numerous stalls will sell you a Vodafone SIM (₹155 including ₹49 credit) if you provide one passport photograph and a passport/visa photocopy. Tourist Information Cal Calling (₹45) Useful monthly info-booklet sold at Oxford Bookstore. CityInfo (www.explocity.com) Advertisementled listings pamphlet available free from better hotels. India Tourism (Map p 446; %22825813; 4 Shakespeare Sarani; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Free maps of greater Kolkata. West Bengal Tourism (Map p 452; % 22437260, westbengaltourism.gov.in; 3/2 BBD Bagh; h10.30am-1.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1pm Sat) Comfortable, recently redecorated office mostly set up to sell tours (last sales 4.30pm). They also have booths at the airport, both domestic terminal (h8am-9pm) and international terminal (h11am-6.30pm Mon-Sat).

Dangers & Annoyances

Kolkata feels remarkably unthreatening. Predictable beggar-hassle around the Sudder St traveller ghetto is a minor irritant. Crossing the road is a more of a day-to-day worry: the mad traﬃc takes no prisoners. Bandhs (strikes) occur with monotonous regularity, closing shops and stopping all land transport (including taxis to the airport). Monsoon-season flooding is highly inconvenient but rickshaw-wallahs somehow manage to ferry passengers through knee-deep, waterlogged streets.

8 Getting There & Away

Comprehensive and largely accurate air- and train-timetables appear in the Graphiti supplement of the Telegraph newspaper each Sunday.

8 KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA) S H O P P I N G

Medical For listings of medical services see www.kolkata information.com/diagnostic.html and www .calcuttaweb.com/doctor.php. Eastern Diagnostics (Map p 450; 135 Mirza Ghalib St; h7.30am-8.30pm) Doctors’ consultations cost ₹200. Handy for Sudder St.

Mizoram (Map p 458; %24617887; Mizoram Bhawan, 24 Old Ballygunge Rd) Take the lane beside 23 Ashutosh Chowdhury Rd. Nagaland (Map p 446; %22825247; Nagaland House, 11 Shakespeare Sarani) Sikkim (Map p 446; %22817905; Sikkim House, 4/1 Middleton St; h10.30am-4pm MonFri, 10.30am-2pm Sat) Permits free and usually issued within 24 hours.

470

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

Air Long-haul destinations from Netaji Subhash Bose International Airport (NSBIA; www.nscbi airport.org) include Frankfurt on Lufthansa and London on Air India (Map p 452; %22114433; 39 Chittaranjan Ave; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat). Alternatively connect via Dubai, Singapore, Bangkok or Dhaka. For Chinese destinations use China Eastern Airlines (Map p 446; % 40448887; InterGlobe, 1st fl, Landmark Bldg, 228A AJC Bose Rd) flights to/via Kunming, Yunnan. Druk Air (Map p 446; %22902429; 3rd fl, 51 Tivoli Court, 1A Ballygunge Circular Rd) flies to Paro, Bhutan but you’ll need to make tour arrangements. The Bhutanese consulate is in the same building. Most carriers sell tickets online but for Bangladeshi airlines it can prove useful to visit an agency or go directly to the airline oﬃce: Biman (Map p 446; %22266672; www.biman -airlines.com; 6th fl, 99A Park St) GMG (Map p 450; %30283030; www.gmgair lines.com; 20H Park St) United Airways Bangladesh (Map p 450; % 9007095363; www.uabdl.com; Ripon St) Boat Sporadic ferries to Port Blair (Andaman Islands) depart from Kidderpore Docks (Karl Marx Sarani), entered from Gate 3 opposite Kidderpore commuter train station. Tickets (₹1700 to ₹7640) go on sale 10 days before departure at the Shipping Corporation of India (Map p 452; %22484921; Hare St; h10am-1pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Fri). Bus INTERNATIONAL

BANGLADESH Several Marquis St agencies

run Bangladesh-bound services involving a change of vehicle at the Benapol border. Shohagh Paribahan (Map p 450; %22520757; 21A Marquis St; h5am-10.30pm) runs 10 daily bus services to Dhaka (₹720/520 with/without AC, 13 hours). GreenLine (Map p 450; %22520571; 12B Marquis St; h4am-10.30pm) serves Dhaka (₹750, 13 hours, 5.30am and 7am), Chittagong (₹1150, 22 hours, 1pm) and Sylhet (₹1150, 18 hours, 5.30am). BHUTAN A Bhutan Government postbus to Phuentsholing (₹350, 22 hours, 7pm Tue, Thu, Sat) departs from a side yard of Esplanade bus station (Map p 452), where there’s a special ticket booth (h9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm MonSat). DOMESTIC

The city’s biggest bus station is Esplanade (Map p 452) with many city buses, state-wide CSBC services and routes towards Sikkim. For buses

towards Odisha (Orissa) use Babughat (Map p 442) near Eden Gardens. FROM ESPLANADE For Darjeeling or Sikkim, start with one of many night buses to Siliguri (₹325 to ₹700, 12 hours), departing between 6pm and 8pm. For Malda, CSTC buses leave at 7am, 8.30am, 9.30am, 10.45am and 8.15pm (₹143, 9 hours) and can be prebooked up to two weeks ahead. FROM BABUGHAT Buses line up in front of Eden Gardens commuter train station oﬀering numerous overnight services to Ranchi (from ₹170, 10 hours) and to Puri (₹370, 12 hours) via Bhubaneswar (₹320, 9½ hours). Dolphin (www .odishabusservice.com) charges only ₹50 extra for sleeper buses. Most buses leave around 8.30pm but arrive by 5pm if you have baggage. Train

INTERNATIONAL For Dhaka, Bangladesh, the

Maitree Express (II/CC/1AC ₹348/522/869, 12½ hours) departs Kolkata (Chitpore) Station at 7.10am Saturday and Wednesday, returning from Dhaka Cantt at 8.30am Tuesday and Sunday. You must have Darsana marked on your Bangladesh visa. Buy tickets up to 10 days ahead at a special desk (h10am-5pm Mon-Thu, 10am-3pm Fri & Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) within Eastern Railways’ Foreign Tourist Bureau (Map p452; %22224206; 6 Fairlie Pl). No return tickets are available. DOMESTIC Before buying your tickets, check ‘train between stations’ on indianrail.gov.in to see if there’s a Foreign Tourist quota left (using the ‘Enter Quota’ line). If so, head for the Eastern Railways’ Foreign Tourist Bureau (Map p452; %22224206; 6 Fairlie Pl; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) with a book to read – waits can be long but there are sofa-seats. Computerised booking oﬃces (Map p 452; Koilaghat St; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) oﬀer tickets on the wider train network but have no tourist quota. Sudder St travel agencies can save you the trek and can sometimes manage to find tickets on ‘full’ trains but check what their commission will be before booking.

HIRE

CAR & MOTORBIKE

Car rental companies including Wenz (%9330018001; http://wenzcars.com) and Ruia (www.ruiacarrentals.com) can organise long-distance chauﬀeured rides. Sudder St agencies might be able to find you better deals: reliable Backpackers (Map p450; %9836177140; www.tourdesun darbans.com; Tottee Lane) can help and also has three 125cc motorcycles for hire (per day/month ₹500/10,000).

471

DOMESTIC & REGIONAL FLIGHTS FROM KOLKATA DESTINATION

AIRLINES (& NO OF FLIGHTS PER WEEK IF LESS THAN DAILY)

DURATION

FARES FROM

Agartala

SG, AI, IT, I7, 6E, 9W

55min

₹1930

Ahmedabad

SG, 6E

2½hr

₹3430

Aizawl

AI, IT

1½hr

₹2630

Bangkok (Thailand)

IT, IX, 9W, TG

Bagdogra (Siliguri)

IT, SG, 9W, AI (4)

55min

₹1930

Bengaluru (Bangalore)

6E, IT, SG, AI, S2, 9W

2hr

₹3430

Bhubaneswar

IT, 9W

55min

₹3315

Chennai

9W, 6E, SG, AI, I7

2hr

₹3030

Chittagong (Bangladesh)

Z5 (3), 4H (Tue, Thu)

1hr

₹5000

Delhi

6E, 9W, AI, SG, IT, S2

2hr

₹3030

Dhaka (Bangladesh)

BG, IT, 9W, IX (4), Z5, 4H (3)

1hr

₹3520

Dibrugarh

6E, AI (5)

1½hr

₹2360

Dimapur

1-2hr

₹2210

Gaya

AI (Fri)

50mins

₹1400

Goa

IT via Mumbai, SG via Delhi

4½hr

₹3710

Guwahati

SG, 9W, S2, 6E, AI, IT

1¼hr

₹1930

Hyderabad

IT, 6E, AI, SG

2hr

₹3030

Imphal

AI, IT, 6E, S2 (4)

1¼hr

₹2430

Jaipur

6E, SG

2½hr

₹3030

Jorhat

9W (3), S2 (2), AI via Shillong (3)

2¾hr

₹2080

Kathmandu (Nepal)

AI (4)

1¼hr

₹6030

Lucknow

9W 6E via Patna

1½hr 2½

₹6330 ₹2285

Mumbai

9W, 6E, IT, AI, SG, S2

2½hr

₹3735

Nagpur

1¾hr

₹2185

Patna

9W, IT, 6E

1hr

₹2030

Port Blair

AI, S2

2hr

₹7830

Raipur

2hr

₹3830

Ranchi

IT, 9W

1¼hr

₹2730

Shillong

AI (6)

1¾hr

₹2120

Silchar

AI, IT

1½hr

₹2200

Singapore

IX/AI

4½hr

₹7520

Tezpur

AI (3)

2hr

₹2120

Varanasi (via Delhi)

8hr

₹2315

Visakhapatnam (Vizag)

2¼hr

₹6100

Yangon (Rangoon, Myanmar) AI (Mon)

2hr

₹9080

Yangon (via Gaya)

4hr

₹9080

6E=IndiGo, 9W=Jet Airways, AI=Air India, I7=Paramount, IT=Kingfisher, IX=Air India Express, KB=Druk Air, S2=JetLite, SG=SpiceJet, TG=Thai Airways, 4H=United Airways Bangladesh, Z5=GMG, BG=Biman

8 KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA) T R A N S P O R T

AI (Fri)

₹8055

472

Check whether your long-distance train departs from Howrah (Haora; HWH), Sealdah (SDAH) or ‘Kolkata’ (Chitpore; KOAA) Station.

8 Getting Around

Tickets on most city transport routes cost from ₹4 to ₹8. Men shouldn’t sit in assigned ‘Ladies’ seats’.

KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA)

To/From the Airport NSBIA Airport is 5km east of Dum Dum, itself 20 minutes by metro (₹6) from central Kolkata. With massive construction works underway to expand and modernise the airport, you can expect changes to come. Vehicle access is currently from Gate 1, 900m southwest of the terminals where a shopping and hotel complex is under construction. Or from Gate 2 on Jessore Rd, around 400m northwest of the terminals. Note that the airport’s left-luggage service has closed. SUBURBAN TRAIN Biman Bandar is the airport train station, raised on concrete piles and a three-minute stroll from the International terminal. Trains run just a few times daily and not on Sundays. There are departures to Sealdah at 10.45pm, to Majerhat via BBD Bagh Commuter Station at 7.40am and 1.54pm, and to Majerhat via Ballygunge at 10.40am and 6.45pm. These, plus a 6.30am train, stop at Dum Dum Junction where you can switch onto the metro. Don’t mistakenly alight at Dum Dum Cantt. TAXI Prepaid, fixed-price taxis from the airport to Dum Dum metro/Sudder St/Howrah cost ₹140/240/240. Pay before leaving the terminal then cross over to the rank of yellow cabs, ignoring touts in between. After 10pm very few fixedrate taxis are available and others will charge far more. AC BUS New air-conditioned airport buses (₹40, around one hour) run every half hour from the terminal area to Esplanade Bus Station (Map p 452). There are also less-frequent services to Tollygunge (via the bypass) and to Howrah. BUS–METRO COMBINATION Cheaper (₹12), more frequent and often faster than the airport bus but a bad idea with much luggage. Passing by on Jessore Rd, crowded buses 30B (bound eventually for Babughat) and DN9/1 take around 25 minutes to get to Dum Dum metro station. To find Jessore Rd, walk 400m northwest out of the international terminal keeping the Hindu temple and raised train line to your direct left. Cross a construction area and a busy access road and immediately beyond this, shimmy through a small gap in the walled airport compound; the gap is known as Airport Gate 2½ and is opposite Shiva & Sons Airtel shop. CITY BUS Minibus 151 to BBD Bagh and relatively infrequent bus 46 to Esplanade (₹7, one hour) via VIP Rd start from Airport Gate 1, 900m from the domestic terminal.

Bus & Tram Passenger-crammed mechanical sweat boxes hurtle along at frightening speeds wherever the chronic traﬃc congestion abates. Most buses’ route-numbers are written in Western script even when destination signboards aren’t. Photogenically battered old trams are slower but follow more predictable routes. Pay aboard. Ferry The fastest and most agreeable way from central Kolkata to Howrah train station is generally by river ferry (₹4; h8am-8pm) departing every 15 minutes from various jetties including Bagbazar, Armenian (not Sundays), Fairlie, Bishe June and Babu Ghat. Reduced service on Sundays. Metro Kolkata’s busy one-line metro (www.mtp. indianrailways.gov.in; ₹4-8; h7am-9.45pm Mon-Sat, 2-9.45pm Sun) has trains every six to 15 minutes. Extensions are being built to Dakshineswar and to the airport, while a second line (Howrah–Sealdah–Salt Lake) is planned eventually. For Sudder St use Esplanade or Park St. There’s a cursory baggage check on entering. Theoretically you may not carry bags over 10kg (nor may you carry ghee, leaves or dead bodies for that matter). Rickshaw Kolkata is the last bastion of human-powered ‘tana rickshaws’, especially around New Market. During monsoon, high-wheeled rickshaws are the transport most able to cope in the worstflooded streets. Although rickshaw pullers sometimes charge foreigners disproportionate fares, many are virtually destitute, sleeping on the pavements beneath their rented chariots at night so tips are heartily appreciated. Autorickshaws squeeze aboard five passengers to operate as share-taxis along fixed routes. Suburban Trains Useful trains run roughly hourly between Sealdah–Dum Dum–Dakshineswar and in rush hour only from Kidderpore–BBD Bagh–Bagbazar– Chitpore–Dum Dum. For timetables see http://erail.in/kolkatasuburbantrains.htm. Taxi Kolkata’s ubiquitous yellow Ambassador cabs charge a minimum fare of ₹22 for up to 1.9km. Ensure that the meter’s on (usually easier when flagging down a passing cab than if approaching a parked one) but be aware that what it shows is NOT what you’ll pay. To calculate short-trip fares, double the meter reading and add two rupees. For longer trips, that system will be a couple of rupees under, so consult the driver’s conversion chart or ask for a fare print-out. Fares rise after 10pm.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 473

MAJOR TRAINS FROM KOLKATA Departures daily unless otherwise stated.

DEPARTURES

FARES (SLEEPER/ 3AC/2AC UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED)

Bhubaneswar 12839 Chennai Mail

6¾

11.45pm (HWH)

₹167/468/675

Chennai

12841 Coromandal

26½

2.50pm (HWH)

₹461/1242/1700

12839 Chennai Mail

11.45pm (HWH)

₹461/1242/1700

12303/12381 Poorva

8.05am/ 8.20am (HWH)

₹426/1143/1561

12313 SDAH Rajdhani 17

4.50pm (SDAH)

2AC/1AC ₹2030/3395

Gorakhpur

15047/15049/15051

17¾-19

2.30pm/9.40am/ 8.10am (KOAA)

₹311/845/1160

Guwahati

12345 Saraighat

17¾

3.50pm (HWH)

₹359/954/1302

15657 Kanchenjunga

6.35am (SDAH)

₹332/902/1240

USEFUL FOR

Delhi

TRAIN

Hooghly

Bandel Local

every half-hour (HWH) Unreserved ₹9

Lucknow

13151 Tawi Exp

11.45am (KOAA)

₹339/924/1272

12327/12369

18¼

1.10pm (HWH)

₹363/966/1316

Mumbai CST 12810 Mumbai Mail

33¼

8.15pm (HWH)

₹508/1374/1883

New Jalpaiguri

12377 Padatik

10.55pm (SDAH)

₹259/673/911

Patna

12351 Danapur

9½

8.35pm (HWH)

₹252/653/881

Puri

12837 Howrah-Puri

10.35pm (HWH)

₹244/631/852

18409 SriJagannath

9½

7pm (HWH)

₹224/601/822

Siliguri Jctn

13149 Kanchankaya

11½

8.30pm (SDAH)

₹259/643/881

Varanasi

13005 Amritsar Mail

7.10pm (HWH)

₹269/776/1065

HWH=ex-Howrah, SDAH=ex-Sealdah, KOAA=ex-Chitpur

Beware that around 1pm, much of the city’s one-way road system reverses direction! Not surprisingly many taxis are reluctant to make journeys around this time.

There are prepaid taxi booths at Howrah Station, Sealdah Station and at both airport terminals, but such taxis are infamously hard to find at night.

8 KOLK ATA (CALCUT TA) T 8RANSPORT

DURATION (HR)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

West Bengal & Darjeeling Sunderbans Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . .477 Up the Hooghly . . . . .478 Bishnupur . . . . . . . . . .479 Shantiniketan . . . . . . .479 Murshidabad & Berhampore . . . . . . . .481 West Bengal Hills . . . .482 Siliguri & New Jalpaiguri . . . . . . . . . .482 Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . .484 Darjeeling . . . . . . . . . .487 Kalimpong. . . . . . . . . .499

Best Places for a Cuppa » Windamere Hotel (p493) » Sunset Lounge (p495)

» Makaibari Tea Estate (p486)

Why Go? Stretching from the jagged northern hills down to the sultry mangroves of the Bay of Bengal, few states oﬀer such a rich range of destinations and experiences as West Bengal. Down south in the plains, brilliant green rice fields surround bustling trading towns, mud-and-thatch villages, and vestiges of Bengal’s glorious history: ornate, terracotta-tiled Hindu temples and monumental ruins of Muslim princes. Up in the cool northern hills the ‘toy train’ of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway chugs its way up the British-era hill station of Darjeeling, a quintessential remnant of the Raj, whose views of massive Kkangchendzonga towering over the surrounding tea estates rank as one of the region’s most inspiring sights. Overshadowed perhaps by the reputation of its capital Kolkata (Calcutta), the rest of West Bengal sees surprisingly few foreign tourists. Perhaps visitors should learn from the Bengalis themselves, enthusiastic travellers who never tire of exploring their own fascinating and diverse region.

When to Go Darjeeling °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

16/400

Best Places to Stay » Dekeling Hotel (p493)

» Holumba Haven (p502)

» The Ffort Raichak (p478)

0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Oct–Dec & Mar–May Best for West Bengal hills views, trekking and spring bloom.

Oct–Mar Best for avoiding the heat on the lower plains.

Jan The best time to navigate the dense mangrove forests of the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve.

Food & Drink Darjeeling is the place to taste a range of teas from local tea estates. Noted for its delicate taste, the teas range from black to green to white and are best taken alone or with a slice of lemon, but not with milk. For more on the best tearelated travel experiences see p492. Not to be outdone, Bengali food is considered iconic by locals and visitors alike – for more information on the delicacies of this region, see p443 and p1115.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Kolkata Airport (p470) Kolkata (Chitpore) Train Station (p470) Bagdogra Airport (p483) New Jalpaiguri Train Station (p484)

DON’T MISS The views of 8598m Khangchendzonga, the world’s third-highest mountain, are easily one of the West Bengal Hills’ highlights. The classic viewpoints are from Tiger Hill or from the Singalila Trek, where the Himalayan skyline stretches from Nepal to Bhutan. Darjeeling town also has great views, as does Deolo Hill in Kalimpong. The major potential spoiler is the weather. The most reliable clear skies are at dawn during the post-monsoon months of October to December.

Top State Festivals » Lepcha & Bhutia New Year (Jan, West Bengal Hills) Colourful fairs and traditional dances in and around Darjeeling.

» Ganga Sagar Mela (mid-Jan, Sagar Island, p478) Hundreds of thousands of Hindu pilgrims converge where the Ganges meets the sea, to bathe en masse in a fervent festival.

» Magh Mela (6-8 Feb, Shantiniketan, p479) Crafts and rural arts take centre stage at this festival. » Bengali New Year (mid-Apr, Naba Barsha) A statewide holiday celebrating the first day of the Bengali calendar.

» Rath Yatra (Jun & Jul, Chariot Festival, statewide) Celebrated by pulling the juggernaut of Lord Jagannath’s chariot. » Jhapan (mid-Aug, Bishnupur, p479) Draws snake charmers to honour the goddess Manasa, the central figure of snake worship.

» Fulpati (Sep & Oct, West Bengal Hills) Linked to Durga Puja and marking the seventh day of Dashain, this predominantly Nepali festival is also celebrated by Lepchas and others with processions and dancing from Ghum to Darjeeling.

» Durga Puja (Oct, statewide) Across the state, especially in Kolkata, temporary pandals (pavilions) are raised and intense celebrations take place to worship the goddess Durga. After four colourful days, beautiful clay idols of the 10-armed deity are immersed in the rivers.

» Jagaddhatri Puja (Nov, Chandarnagar, p478) Honours the goddess Jagaddhatri, an incarnation of Durga. » Poush Mela (23-26 Dec, Shantiniketan, p479) Folk music, dance, theatre and Baul songs radiate across the university town.

Fast Facts » Population: 91.3 million » Area: 87,853 sq km » Capital: Kolkata

» Main language: Bengali

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹600, $$ ₹600 to ₹3000, $$$ above ₹3000

Top Tip During the month-long ‘puja season’, around the Durga Puja, Dasain/Dushera and later Diwali festivals, hotels, jeeps and trekking huts are often booked out by travelling Bengali tourists. Pack a jumper and visit in November to avoid the crowds.

Resources » West Bengal Tourist Department (www.west bengaltourism.gov.in) Information and online booking for WBTDC lodges like Jaldaphara. » Kalimpong (www.kalim pong.org) Travel information with an emphasis on accommodation.

West Bengal Highlights

476

1 Enjoy 360-degree mountain views over breakfast at hilltop lodges on the Singalila Ridge Trek (p499)

SIKKIM Singalila National Park Singalila Ridge Trek

Rangpo Kalimpong Darjeeling Tiger Hill Kurseong

Kakarbhitta Panitanki

Jalpaiguri

Chengrabandha

ASSAM Cooch Behar

Tee

sta Ri r ve

Purnia Raiganj 31

MEGHALAYA 34

0 0

100 km 50 miles

Gaur

BIHAR

River

BANGLADESH

Jamuna

Godagari Lalgola

Moregram

To Dhaka (78km)

nge

Nalhati

M Ex ore pr g es ram sw ay

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING

Pandua Malda

Bhagirathi River

Murshidabad

Riv

Berhampore

Sainthia

6 Admire intricate

7 Cruise the river channels of the Sunderbans (p476) through the world’s most extensive mangrove forest, to spot darting kingfishers, spotted deer and the elusive Royal Bengal tiger

Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary

Haldibari

5 Watch dawn break over the world’s third-highest peak from Tiger Hill (p490) scenes from the Hindu epics carved on the medieval terracotta temples of Bishnupur (p479)

Buxa Duar

Jaigon Madarihat

New Jalpaiguri

4 Visit a tea estate, sip a delicate local brew and enjoy the fantastic views from the historic hill station of Darjeeling (p487)

BHUTAN Phuentsholing

Mane Bhanjang Toy Train Mirik PAL Bagdogra Siliguri

2 Ride the steamdriven toy train (p484) as it puﬀs and pants its way between the tea towns of Kurseong and Darjeeling

3 Meander up the wide Hooghly River (p478) to uncover colonial and Mughal relics in Serampore, Chandarnagar and Hooghly

To Thimphu (93km)

Gangtok

Jorethang

Suri Asansol

Palashi

Shantiniketan/ Bolpur

Katwa

Hooghly River Krishnanagar Nabadwip

Ilambazar Durgapur Panagarh

Shantipur Bankura

Burdwan

NH2

Bishnupur Arambagh

Bansberia Chandarnagor Mahesh Serampore Howrah

Tarakeswar

Midnapore

Grand d Trunk R

NH6

Kolaghat

Haldia

Hardwood Point Kakdwip

ODISHA

Digha

Benapole

Bandel/Chinsurah 34

Barrackpore

Basirhat

KOLKATA (CALCUTTA)

Diamond Harbour

NH41

Kharagpur Nandakumar (Tamluk)

Jessore

Ranaghat Bangoan Kalyani

Canning Sonakhali Pakhirala Gosaba Sajnekhali

Jatar Daul

Sunderbans Tiger Reserve Namkhana

Contai

Mandarmani

Sagar Island

Bakkali

Mouths of the Ganges

History

Activities

TREKKING

While pleasant walks along pine-scented trails are possible in all of West Bengal’s hill stations, the most popular place for a multiday trek is Singalila Ridge (p498), near Darjeeling, where teahouse-style trekking is possible. Camping treks are possible elsewhere, including around Kalimpong. RAFTING

White-water rafting trips should resume soon on the mighty Teesta and Rangeet Rivers, easily arranged and accessed from Darjeeling (see p492).

8 Getting There & Around

The vast majority who enter West Bengal arrive in Kolkata. Siliguri’s Bagdogra airport has services to Bangkok, Kolkata, Delhi and Guwahati, as well as daily helicopter flights to Gangtok.

Most land arrivals are by train: main lines run south to Bhubaneswar and Chennai (Madras), and west to Gaya, Varanasi and Delhi. Other lines connect the state to Assam in the northeast and Jharkhand in the southwest. Numerous longdistance buses also connect surrounding states. Overcrowded ‘share jeeps’ ply the winding roads of the West Bengal hills. Try to avoid the cramped back seats.

477

SOUTH OF KOLKATA Sunderbans Tiger Reserve Home to one of the largest concentrations of tigers on the planet, this 2585 sq km reserve (Indian/foreigner ₹15/150) is a network of channels and semi-submerged mangroves that forms the world’s largest river delta. Royal Bengal tigers (oﬃcially estimated to number close to 300) lurk in the impenetrable depths of the mangrove forests, and also swim the delta’s innumerable channels. Although they do sometimes kill villagers working in the Sunderbans, tigers are typically shy and sightings are rare. Nevertheless, cruising the broad waterways through the world’s biggest mangrove sanctuary (now a Unesco World Heritage Site) and watching wildlife, whether it be a spotted deer, 2m-long water monitor or luminescent kingfisher, is a world away from Kolkata’s chaos. The best time to visit the reserve is between October and March. Organised tours (see p477) are the best way to navigate this tricky and harsh landscape, not least because all your permits, paperwork, guiding duties and logistical problems are taken care of. In fact, travelling alone is not recommended. At Sajnekhali, the oﬃcial gateway into the reserve, you’ll find the Mangrove Interpretation Centre (h8.30am-5pm) with a small turtle and crocodile hatchery, a collection of pickled wildlife and a blackboard with the date of the last tiger-spotting chalked up.

T Tours Tour prices vary widely. They typically include return transport from Kolkata, as well as all the fees, but do check what is and isn’t included. West Bengal Tourism (p469) organises weekly boat cruises from September to April, costing from ₹2300 per person for one night and two half-days, including food and on-board accommodation. Trips that include a worthwhile extra day start from ₹3100.

SOUTHBENGAL OF KOLK TO U R S WEST &ATA DARJEELING TO S UU NR D SE R B A N S T I G E R R E S E R V E

Referred to as Vanga in the Mahabharata, this region has a long history predating the Aryan invasions of India. It was part of the Mauryan empire in the 3rd century BC before being overrun by the Guptas. For three centuries from around the 9th century AD, the Buddhist Pala dynasty controlled a large area based in Bengal and including parts of Odisha (Orissa), Bihar and modern Bangladesh. Bengal was brought under Muslim control by Qutb-ud-din, first of the sultans of Delhi, at the end of the 12th century. Following the death of Aurangzeb in 1707, Bengal became an independent Islamic state. The British East India Company established a trading post in Kolkata (Calcutta) in 1698, which quickly prospered. Sensing rich pickings, Siraj-ud-daula, the nawab of Bengal, came down from his capital at Murshidabad and easily took Kolkata in 1756. Robert Clive defeated him the following year at the Battle of Plassey, helped by the treachery of Siraj-ud-daula’s uncle, Mir Jafar, who commanded the greater part of the nawab’s army. Jafar succeeded his nephew as nawab but his reward was short-lived; after the Battle of Buxar in 1764 the British took full control of Bengal. West Bengal was the cradle of the Indian Renaissance and national freedom movement, and has long been considered the country’s cultural heartland. In 1947 Indian independence from Britain, and the subsequent partition of the country, saw the state of Bengal divided on religious grounds, causing the upheaval of millions of Bengalis.

478

Backpackers WILDLIFE WATCHING (%9836177140; www.tourdesundarbans.com; 11 Tottee Lane, Kolkata) An extremely pro-

fessional and knowledgeable outfit that conducts highly recommended tours of the jungles, including birdwatching and local music sessions. All-inclusive prices are ₹4000/4500 per person for one-/two-night trips, give or take a few hundred depending on the number of people in your group.

Sunderban Tiger Camp WILDLIFE WATCHING (%9331092632; www.sunderbantigercamp.com; 71 Ganesh Chandra Avenue, Kolkata; 1/2 nights per person from ₹3250/4930; a) Provides expert

guides and quality accommodation (on dry land).

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING N O R T H O F KO L K ATA

Help Tourism WILDLIFE WATCHING (%033-24550917; www.helptourism.com; 67A Kali Temple Rd, Kalighat, Kolkata; 1/2 nights for 2 people all-inclusive ₹22100/27600) Prices come

down sharply as the number of people increases.

Diamond Harbour % 03174 / POP 37,238

Diamond Harbour, once among the main ports of the East India Company, rests 51km south of Kolkata, where the Hooghly turns south and flows into open sea. It’s a good staging area for points in the south. There isn’t much to see around, except the smoking chimneys of industrial Haldia township across the river. Ffort Raichak (%275444; www.ﬀort.com; Sarisa; d from ₹7500; ais) is a surprisingly

pleasant (though a tad outsized) resort nearby, a relaxed stay in which could be your only reason to halt an extra night here. Cutting a handsome profile and located right next to the waters, it’s a plush getaway set amid 26 hectares of lush greens, and is equipped with the very best of luxe features. If you’re staying, consider spending a few extra bucks on a delightful river cruise, if the hotel can arrange it for you. Buses from Kolkata’s Esplanade (₹40, 1½ hours) come and go every 30 minutes.

Sagar Island According to legend, after the sage Kapil reduced King Sagar’s 60,000 sons to ashes, it was at Sagar Island that the Ganges revived their souls by flowing over their dusty remains. Each year the Ganga Sagar Mela is

held here, near the Kapil Muni Temple, honouring the legend. The best way to see the festival is the two-day, one-night boat tour operated from Kolkata by West Bengal Tourism (p469), with accommodation on board (per person deck/berth ₹3950/6500). The island hibernates for the rest of the year.

Mandarmani % 03220

About 180km south of Kolkata, Mandarmani is a sleepy fishing village that sports a heavenly beach stretching nearly 15km. It remains one of the more unpolluted beaches in the country, and supports countless colonies of sand bubbler crabs. The beaches see some additional action at dawn, when fishing boats drop anchor and disgorge their catches of marine goodies. Sana Beach (%9007725066; www.thesana beach.com; d incl breakfast from ₹4050; a), at

the far end of the beach, has a mix of comfy rooms, cottages and tents, and a good barcum-restaurant. To go, take the 6.40am Tamralipta Express (2nd class/chair ₹77/298, 3½ hours) from Kolkata’s Howrah Station to Digha. A taxi drop from there costs about ₹400.

NORTH OF KOLKATA Up the Hooghly On the Hooghly River, about 25km north of Kolkata, Serampore was a Danish trading centre until Denmark’s holdings in India were transferred to the British East India Company in 1845. Serampore College was founded in 1818 by the first Baptist missionary to India, William Carey, and houses a library that was once one of the largest in the country. Further upstream is the former French outpost of Chandernagar, where you can visit the Eglise du Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart Church) and the nearby 18th-century mansion now housing the Cultural Institut de Chandernagar (admission free; h11am5.30pm, closed Thu & Sat), with collections

documenting this colonial outpost. In 1571 the Portuguese set up a factory in Bandel, 41km north of Kolkata and close to Saptagram, which was an important trading port long before Kolkata rose to prominence.

Here, you can climb the lofty clock tower of the romantically crumbling Imambara (ad-

mission ₹5; h8am-6pm Apr-Jul, to 5.30pm Aug-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Mar), where the view over the river

(not to mention the climb) will take your breath away. The building was constructed in 1861 as a centre for learning and worship. Only 1km south of Bandel, Chinsurah was exchanged by the Dutch for the British possessions on the (Indonesian) island of Sumatra in 1825. There are dilapidated ruins of a fort and a cemetery, about 1km to the west. About 6km north of Hooghly, Bansberia has two interesting temples. The 13 sikharas (spires) of the Hanseswari Temple look like something you’d expect to see in St Petersburg, while the ornate terracotta tiles covering the Vasudev Temple resemble those seen in Bishnupur.

% 03244 / POP 61,943

Known for its beautiful terracotta temples, Bishnupur flourished as the capital of the Malla kings from the 16th to the early 19th centuries. The architecture of these intriguing temples (Indian/foreigner ₹10/250; hdawn-dusk)

is a bold mix of Bengali, Islamic and Orissan styles. Intricately detailed facades of numerous temples play out scenes of the Hindu epics, the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The most striking structures include the Jor Bangla, Madan Mohan Temple, the multi-arched Ras Mancha and the elaborate Shyam Rai Temple. You need to pay for your ticket at Ras Mancha and show it at the other temples. Cycle-rickshaw-wallahs oﬀer tours (the best way to negotiate the labyrinth of lanes) for ₹200. There’s a small museum (admission ₹10; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun) that’s worth a look for its painted manuscript covers, stone friezes, musical instruments and folk art gallery. Bishnupur is in Bankura district, famous for its Baluchari silk saris and its pottery, particularly the stylised Bankura horse. Reproductions of detailed terracotta tiles from the temples are sold everywhere.

Bishnupur Tourist Lodge (%252013; College Rd; d without/with AC from ₹500/1100; a) is a freshly renovated and upgraded

government-run hotel, with clean rooms and a good bar-cum-restaurant. It’s close to the museum and a ₹50 rickshaw ride from the train station. It’s often full, so book ahead. Regular buses run from Bishnupur to Kolkata (₹90, five hours). For Shantiniketan (₹70, four hours) you may have to change in

479

Shantiniketan % 03463

Shantiniketan is the epitome of its Bengali name, which means peaceful (shanti) abode (niketan). The mystic, poet and artist Rabindranath Tagore (1861–1941) founded a school here in 1901, which later developed into the Visva Bharati University, with an emphasis on humanity’s relationship with nature. It’s a relaxed place with students from all over India and overseas. The post office (Santiniketan Rd; h9am5pm Mon-Sat) is on the main road, opposite the turn-oﬀ to the university entrance. The State Bank of India (Santiniketan Rd; h10am3pm Mon-Fri), on the same road, has an ATM

and changes foreign currency. Spread throughout the leafy university grounds are eclectic statues, the celebrated Shantiniketan Murals and the Tagore Prayer Hall. The museum and art gallery (adult/student ₹5/3; h10.30am-1pm & 2-4.30pm Thu-Mon, 10.30am-1pm Tue) within the Utta-

rayan complex (Tagore’s former home) are worth a peek if you are a Tagore aficionado. Reproductions of his sketches and paintings are sold here. The Subarnarekha bookshop near the post oﬃce has plenty of Tagore’s titles (₹80 to ₹250) in English.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Shantiniketan Tourist Lodge HOTEL $$ (%252699; Bhubandanga; d without/with AC from ₹750/1800; a) This large-scale government-

run operation oﬀers good-value rooms opening out to airy corridors, with good housekeeping and friendly service. There’s a pleasant garden and the restaurant (mains ₹70 to ₹90) works up a limited range of Indian standards.

Hotel Rangamati HOTEL $$ (%252305; Bhubandanga; s/d ₹700/990, with AC ₹1090/1400; a) A fun ‘jungle hut’ theme

with faux branches, wooden fittings and lots of fish tanks at the entrance. Rooms are clean with big bathrooms and dark wood furniture. There’s a basic restaurant.

Camellia Hotel & Resort HOTEL $$ (%9007030195; www.camelliagroup.org; Prantik; d without/with AC from ₹1750/4500; as) The

NORTHBENGAL OF KOLK S L E E P I N GB WEST & ATA DARJEELING S&LI SEEHEAT N P IUINNPGG U& R E AT I N G

Bishnupur

Durgapur (see p480). Two trains run daily to Howrah (2nd class/chair ₹85/317, four hours): the 5.31pm Rupashi Bangla Express and the 7.33am Howrah Purulia Express.

480

UP ON THE FARM, DOWN ON THE FARM

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING N O R T H O F KO L K ATA

If you want to get oﬀ the tourist track and enjoy views and solitude, we recommend three (very diﬀerent) farm homestays in West Bengal. All need to be booked in advance. Perched on an idyllic mountainside three hours’ bumpy jeep ride from Darjeeling or two hours’ drive from Rimbik, at the end of the Singalila Ridge Trek (p498), Karmi Farm (www.karmifarm.com; per person incl full board ₹1500) overlooks Sikkim in one direction and Nepal in another. It’s managed by Andrew Pulger-Frame, whose Sikkimese grandparents once ran an estate from the main house here, where delicious home-cooked meals are now served up to visitors on the old kitchen table. The simple but very comfortable double and family rooms are attractively decorated with colourful local fabrics, and bathrooms have 24-hour hot water. A small clinic for villagers is run from the farm, providing a volunteer opportunity for medical students and doctors. Treks and other activities can be organised, but it’s equally easy to just sit for days on the rooftop deck with a book and a pot of tea, overlooking the bird- and flower-filled gardens and towering distant peaks. Wonderful. Back down on the plains, bordered by brilliant-green paddy fields, is the rustic Basudha Farm (%9432674377; www.cintdis.org; per person ₹300), an hour’s drive from Bishnupur. Basudha is a rural self-help organisation and documentation centre that operates a seed bank of indigenous rice strains. Rices are grown using organic methods, and farmers are sensitised to use them as an alternative to using genetically modified strains. Visitors to the farm are assumed to be interested in the work and the local culture. Accommodation is basic, with limited (solar) power, and all water needs to be pumped from the well. The all-veg food is mostly grown on the farm. A similar approach to nature and life is taken at Babli (%03463-271285; www.babli-farm .tripod.com; per person from ₹650), a farm near Shantiniketan that busies itself with conservation of forests, flora and fauna, while promoting rural empowerment. Those interested in learning more can spend a quiet day on their sylvan campus and be treated like family. Accommodation is in huts and cottages, and there’s great veg food at the canteen.

Camellia has a pleasant country setting about 2km from the university, with leafy gardens and green lawns. Tasteful art and furniture make the rooms especially comfortable; the suites have a fridge and bathtub. Pick-up from the train station is available.

oAlcha

CAFÉ $

(Ratanpalli; mains ₹50-80; h7.30am-10am, noon2pm & 4-8pm) This lovely cafe on one edge of the

university campus is a melting pot for writers, artists, poets, musicians and free-thinking students nursing million-dollar ideas in their fertile minds. It’s got a cool shack-style seating space that often doubles as an art gallery, and there’s a boutique adjoining the eatery that sells a fantastic selection of jewellery, textiles and handicrafts made by local artisans. Oh, and the parathas are sinful.

8 Getting There & Away

Several trains ply between Bolpur station, 2km south of the university, and Kolkata daily. The best is Shantiniketan Express (2nd class/chair ₹70/232, 2½ hours) departing at 10.10am from Howrah and 1.10pm from Bolpur. For New Jal-

paiguri, take the 9.40am Kanchenjunga Express 5657 (sleeper/3AC ₹187/496, eight hours). There’s a train booking oﬃce (Santiniketan Rd; h8am-noon, 12.30-2pm Thu-Tue) near the post oﬃce. The Jambuni bus stand is in Bolpur. Buses go to Berhampore/Murshidabad (₹70, four hours) and Bishnupur (₹70, four hours) but direct buses can be hard to find: you may need to change in Durgapur for Bishnupur and Suri for Berhampore.

Nabadwip & Mayapur % 03472 / POP 115,036

Nabadwip, 114km north of Kolkata, is an important Krishna pilgrimage centre, attracting throngs of devotees, and is also an ancient centre of Sanskrit culture. The last Hindu king of Bengal, Lakshman Sen, moved his capital here from Gaur. Across the river from Nabadwip, Mayapur is a centre for the Iskcon (Hare Krishna) movement. There’s a large, colourful temple and the basic but clean Iskcon Guest

Houses (%245620; mghb@pamho.net; d/tr/q from ₹300/350/450). Iskcon runs a private bus

to Kolkata (₹200, five hours) early on Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings, returning in the evening; for details or to make a booking call Iskcon Kolkata (%033-32488041).

Murshidabad & Berhampore % 03482 / POP 36,894

In Murshidabad, rural Bengali life and 18thcentury architecture meld on the verdant shores of the Bhagirathi River. When Sirajud-daula was nawab of Bengal, Murshidabad was his capital, and he was assassinated here after the defeat at Plassey (now Palashi). The main draw here is the Hazarduari (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h10am-4.30pm SatThu), a palace famous for its 1000 doors (real

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Samrat HOTEL $ (%251147; fax 253091; NH34 Panchanantala; d without/with AC from ₹300/770; a) This is

one of Berhampore’s longest-running operations, and oﬀers spacious and clean rooms opening along corridors painted in orange and cream. The Mahal restaurant (mains ₹100) downstairs is a good place for meals. Hotel Manjusha HOTEL $ (%270321; Murshidabad; d from ₹500) A won-

derful setting on the banks of the Bhagirathi, behind the Great Imambara. Downstairs rooms are cheapest, while rooms 201 to 203 have river and Hazarduari views for an extra ₹100. It’s all about the location and period charm, though the rooms themselves are threadbare – some are slightly whiﬀy.

The Bhagirathi Express (2nd class/chair ₹69/264, four hours) departs Kolkata’s Sealdah station at 6.25pm, and departs from Berhampore at 6.34am. Regular buses leave for Kolkata (₹95, six hours) and Malda (₹70, four hours). To Shantiniketan/Bolpur (₹70, four hours) there are occasional direct buses but you may need to change in Suri. Shared autorickshaws (₹20) whiz between Murshidabad and Berhampore. Cycle-rickshaws/ taxis oﬀer guided half-day tours to see the spread-out sites for ₹200/500.

481

Malda % 03512 / POP 161,448

Malda, 340km north of Kolkata, is a convenient base for visiting the ruins of Bengal’s former capitals in nearby Gaur and Pandua. Malda is also famed for its mangoes ripening in spring; even if it’s not mango season, you’ll probably get mango pickle on the side with any food you order here. State Bank of India and ICICI ATMs are on the highway, near the turn-oﬀ to the bus station. i-Zone (per hr ₹20; h10am-7pm), behind the bus station on the way to Malda Museum, has fast internet connections.

Hotel Kalinga (%283567; www.hotelkalinga malda.net; NH34, Ram Krishna Pally; d without/ with AC ₹500/1000; a) is a big place on the

highway, about halfway between the bus and train stations. The AC rooms are fine, but the cheaper ones are slightly grubby. The rooftop multicuisine restaurant (mains ₹100) has good food and great views.

Malda Tourist Lodge (%220911; Rathbari More; d without/with AC ₹525/1050; a) is a state-

run accommodation option that was undergoing renovation during research, and should have fresh, clean rooms on oﬀer by now. The best trains from Kolkata (Sealdah station) are the 3.15pm Intercity Express (2nd class/chair ₹105/374, six hours) and the New Jalpaiguri-bound 6.35am Kanchanjanga Express (sleeper/2AC ₹250/580, six hours). The former returns at 6.10am the next morning. Buses depart regularly for Siliguri (₹135, six hours), Berhampore/Murshidabad (₹70, four hours) and Kolkata (₹170, 10 hours).

Gaur & Pandua Rising from the flooded paddy fields of Gaur (15km south of Malda) are mosques and other vestiges of the 13th- to 16th-century capital of the Muslim nawabs. Little remains

NORTHBENGAL OF KOLK S L E E P I N GM WEST & ATA DARJEELING S&LUEEREAT SPHIIN INDGGA & B AEDAT&I NBGE R H A M P O R E

and false), built here for the nawabs in 1837. It houses an astonishing collection of antiquities from the 18th and 19th centuries. Other beautiful structures in the complex include the Nizamat Imambara, the clock tower, the Wasef Manzil, a former regal residence, and the elegant Madina Mosque. Murshid Quli Khan, who moved the capital here in 1700, is buried beneath the stairs at the impressive ruins of the Katra Mosque. Siraj-ud-daula was assassinated at the Nimak Haram Deori (Traitor’s Gate). Within the Kathgola Gardens (admission ₹7; h6.30am-5.30pm) is an interesting family mansion of a Jain trading family, dating back to 1873. Berhampore is 15km south of Murshidabad and acts as its bus and railway hub.

8 Getting There & Around

482

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

from the 7th- to 12th-century pre-Muslim period, when Gaur was the capital of the successive Buddhist Pala and Hindu Sena dynasties. Wander through the ruins of the impressive Baradwari Mosque and the intact arcaded aisle of its corridor, or beneath the fortress-like gateway of Dakhil Darwaza (1425). The Qadam Rasul Mosque enshrines the flat footprint of the Prophet Mohammed. The adjacent tomb of Fateh Khan (1707) startlingly informs you that its occupant ‘vomited blood and died on this spot’. Remnants of colourful enamel cling to the Chamkan Mosque and the Gumti Gate nearby. In Pandua (30km north of Malda) are the vast ruins of the 14th-century Adina Masjid, once India’s largest mosque. Within a section of arched and domed bays sits the tomb of Sikander Shah (r 1364–79), the builder of this mosque. About 2km away is the Eklakhi Mausoleum, so called because it cost ₹1 lakh (₹100,000) to build. The monuments are spread throughout Gaur and Pandua along some of the worst roads in India; it’s worth hiring a taxi from Malda for half a day (₹1200).

WEST BENGAL HILLS Siliguri & New Jalpaiguri % 0353 / POP 656,000 / ELEV 120M

The crowded and noisy transport hub encompassing the twin towns of Siliguri and New Jalpaiguri (NJP) is the jumping-oﬀ point for Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Sikkim, the northeast states, eastern Nepal and Bhutan. There’s little to see here: for most travellers, Siliguri is an overnight transit point to cooler climes. Most of Siliguri’s hotels, restaurants and services are spread along Tenzing Norgay Rd, better known as Hill Cart Rd. NJP Station Rd leads southward to NJP station, while branching northeastward oﬀ Hill Cart Rd are Siliguri’s other main streets, Sevoke and Bidhan Rds, the latter hiding the city’s most interesting bazaars.

4 Sleeping

Hotel Conclave HOTEL $$ (%2516144; www.hotelconclave.com; Hill Cart Rd; s/d from ₹750/900; a) Unhelpful staﬀ can’t

detract from this solid contemporary hotel, conveniently close to all the transport options. Quality mattresses, artwork on the walls and a glass elevator add a touch of class. The rooms are spotless and downstairs is the excellent Eminent Restaurant (mains ₹70-140). Road-facing luxury rooms can be noisy. Pricier rooms come with breakfast. Conclave Lodge HOTEL $ (%2514102; Hill Cart Rd; s/d without bathroom ₹200/350, s/d/tr with bathroom ₹332/500/611)

Tucked away behind the more visible Hotel Conclave, this central lodge is the best budget option, with clean, quiet and high-ceilinged rooms with TV and hot water bathrooms.

Hotel Sinclairs HOTEL $$$ (%2517674; www.sinclairshotels.com; oﬀ NH31; d from ₹3800; asW) This comfortable three-

star hotel escapes the noise of Hill Cart Rd, 1km north of the bus terminal. The rooms are spacious and there’s an excellent restaurantcum-bar and the chance to dive into a cool, clean pool.

Cindrella Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%2544130; 3rd Mile, Sevoke Rd; www.cindrellahotels.com; s/d incl breakfast from ₹3600/4000; aWs) The top place in town oﬀers com-

fortable rather than luxurious rooms, with a bar, small gym and pool (closed Nov-Feb), grassy lawns, and free wi-fi throughout. It’s 3km northeast of the centre.

Hotel Himalayan Regency HOTEL $$ (%6502955; Hill Cart Rd; s/d from ₹500/600, with AC from ₹1200; a) Comfortable rooms

with big clean bathrooms. Thought has gone into the design and colour scheme, though apparently by someone suffering from an extreme form of colour blindness. Hotel Mount View HOTEL (%2512919; Hill Cart Rd; d from ₹500) Under

renovation after a change of owner at the time of research, but worth a look; located next to Khana Khazana restaurant.

5 Eating oKhana Khazana

MULTICUISINE $

(Hill Cart Rd; mains ₹60-120) The secluded out-

door area here oﬀers merciful relief from the chaos outside. The extensive menu ranges from Chinese and South Indian specials to Mumbai street snacks, and includes plenty of vegetarian options. Our mildly-spiced chicken mumtaz was so good we ordered it three times.

Sartaj INDIAN $$ (Hill Cart Rd; mains ₹70-140; a) A sophisticat-

ed and cool (literally – the AC is heaven) bar-restaurant with a huge range: first-rate North Indian tandooris and curries, good Continental options and top-notch service.

8 Information

Internet Access iWay (Hill Cart Rd; per hr ₹40; h9am-9pm) A tangerine dream, with bright-orange interior. It’s half-hidden behind a shop, 1km southeast of the bus terminal. Medical Services Sadar Hospital (%2436526; Hospital Rd)

Tourist Information Sikkim Tourist Office (SNT Terminal, Hill Cart Rd; h10am-5pm) Issues permits for Sikkim on the spot. Bring copies of your passport, visa and one passport-sized photo. West Bengal Tourist Office (%2511974; www.westbengaltourism.gov.in; Hill Cart Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) Can book accommodation for Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary, including forestry lodges. Less helpful information desks are at Bagdogra Airport and NJP train station. Travel Agencies Private transport booking agencies line Hill Cart Rd. Help Tourism (% 2433683; www.helptourism .com, www.helptourism.net; 143 Hill Cart Rd; s) A recommended agency with a strong environmental and community-development focus, including voluntourism. It has links to homestays and lodges around the hills, and its tour and trekking packages get rave reviews. Tourist Service Agency (%2531959; tsaslg@ sanchar net.in; Pradhan Nagar Rd) Can book

Jaldaphara accommodation, including forest lodges. It’s close to the Delhi Hotel.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Bagdogra Airport is 12km west of Siliguri. Check websites for fares, which vary widely. Some

Bus Most North Bengal State Transport Corporation (NBSTC) buses leave from Tenzing Norgay Central Bus Terminal (Hill Cart Rd), as do many private buses plying the same routes. Private bus companies line the entrance. NBSTC buses include frequent buses to Malda (₹120, 6½ hours) and Madarihat (see p 484), plus a daily service to Kolkata (₹266, 7pm). Assam State Transportation Corporation runs a daily 4pm bus to Guwahati (₹353, 12 hours). For Patna (₹275, 12 hours, departs 6pm) try Gupta Travels, just outside the bus station. Deluxe Volvo buses for Kolkata (₹900, 11 hours) leave around 7pm from this and many other agencies. Sikkim Nationalised Transport (SNT) buses to Gangtok (₹115-210, 4½ hours) leave at 7.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm and 1.30pm from the SNT terminal (Hill Cart Rd), 250m south of the bus terminal. The 11.30am departure is normally aircon (₹220). Arrange your permit in advance at the Sikkim Tourist Oﬃce next door (p 483). Jeep A faster and more comfortable way of getting around the hills is by share jeep. There are a number of jeep stands lining Hill Cart Rd: for Darjeeling (₹90, three hours), Kurseong (₹50, 1½ hours) or Mirik (₹60, 2½ hours), look around opposite the bus terminal or outside the Conclave Hotel; for Kalimpong (₹80, 2½ hours) there’s a stand on Sevoke Rd (take an autoricksaw); and for Gangtok (₹140, four hours) jeeps leave from next to the SNT terminal until around 2pm. Share and charter jeeps for all these destinations also leave straight from NJP train station.

483

S 8 WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING 8 I L I G U R I & N E W J A L PA I G U R I S

Money Bagdogra Airport has a money changer with decent rates but a fairly high commission. Delhi Hotel (Hill Cart Rd; h9am-7pm) Currency and travellers cheques exchanged, opposite the bus station; ₹25 tax per transaction. Multi Money (1st fl, 143 Hill Cart Rd; h10am6.30pm Mon-Sat) Exchanges cash only; next to Standard Chartered Bank. Standard Chartered Bank (144 Hill Cart Rd) One of several ATMs on Hill Cart Rd.

flights to Delhi are direct, while others go via Guwahati. Air India (%2511495; www.airindia.in; Hill Cart Rd; h10am-1pm & 1.45-4.30pm Mon-Sat) Five weekly to Kolkata and Delhi, three to Guwahati. Go Air (%1800 222111; www.goair.in) Daily to Delhi, three weekly to Guwahati. Jet Airways (%2538001; www.jetairways.com; Hill Cart Rd; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Daily to Kolkata and Delhi, four weekly to Guwahati. Kingfisher Airlines (%1800 2093030; www .flykingfisher.com) Daily to Kolkata and Delhi, three weekly to Guwahati. Spice Jet (%1800 1803333; www.spicejet .com) Daily to Kolkata (direct) and Delhi (some direct, some via Guwahati/Kolkata). Five-seater helicopters (₹2200, 30 minutes, 10kg luggage limit) travel daily from Bagdogra to Gangtok at 2.30pm in good weather. You need to book by phone through Sikkim Tourism Development Corporation (% 03592-203960; see p535) in Gangtok.

484

Chartering a jeep privately costs roughly 10 times that of a shared ticket. An option for XLsized Westerners is to pay for and occupy the front three seats next to the driver. A prepaid taxi stand at Bagdogra Airport oﬀers fixed fares to Darjeeling (₹1375-1475), Mirik (₹880), Kakarbhitta (₹400) and even Bhadrapur in Nepal (₹835), thus bypassing Siliguri completely. It’s not diﬃcult to find other people to share the cost.

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

Train There’s a train booking oﬃce (%2537333; cnr Hospital & Bidhan Rds; h8-11am, 11.30am-2pm & 2.15-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) in Siliguri. Darjeeling Mail 2344 The fastest of the four daily services to Kolkata (sleeper/3AC ₹264/695, 10 hours, departs 8pm), via Malda. Haldibari Koaa SF Express 2364 A better option for Malda (2nd class/chair ₹108/343, 3½ hours, departing 9.55am Wednesday, Friday and Saturday). North East Express 2505 Fast to Delhi (sleeper/3AC ₹458/1214, 27 hours, departs 5.15pm), via Patna (₹229/587, 11 hours). Rajdhani Express 2435 (2AC/3AC ₹2194/1735, 21 hours, departs 12.05pm) Fastest service to Delhi.

North East Express 2506 For Guwahati (sleeper/3AC ₹228/569, eight hours, departs 8.40am). TOY TRAIN The diesel toy train climbs the 88km from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling in eight long hours (2nd/1st class ₹42/247, departs 9am). It’s wise to make reservations two to three days in advance. It’s also possible to board the train at Siliguri Jct station, which is just behind the Tenzing Norgay Bus Terminal on Hill Cart Rd. The line was under repair in 2011 after a series of landslides but should reopen soon. If steam is your passion, catch the steam version to Darjeeling from Kurseong (p 487 ).

8 Getting Around

From the bus terminal to NJP train station a taxi/autorickshaw costs ₹200/90, while cyclerickshaws charge ₹50 for the 35-minute trip. Taxis/autorickshaws between Bagdogra Airport and Siliguri cost ₹350/200.

Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary % 03563 / ELEV 60M

This little-visited sanctuary (%262239; Indian/foreigner ₹50/200, camera/video ₹50/500;

CROSSING INTO BANGLADESH, BHUTAN & NEPAL To/From Bangladesh A number of private agencies in Siliguri, including Shyamoli (%9932628243; Hotel Central Plaza complex, Hill Cart Rd) run a daily AC bus direct to Dhaka (₹800, 16 hours), departing at 1.30pm. You’ll need to complete border formalities at Chengrabandha. Regular buses go from the Tenzing Norgay Central Bus Terminal to Chengrabandha (₹42) starting from 7.30am. The border post is open from 8am to 6pm daily. From near the border post you can catch buses on to Rangpur, Bogra and Dhaka. Visas for Bangladesh can be obtained in Kolkata and New Delhi (see p1176).

To/From Bhutan Bhutan Transport Services run three daily buses from just outside the central bus terminal to Phuentsholing (₹75, departs 7.15am, noon and 2pm), and there are many more local buses to Jaigaon on the Indian side of the border, where you clear Indian immigration. Non-Indian nationals need visa clearance from a Bhutanese tour operator to enter Bhutan. See www.tourism.gov.bt and Lonely Planet’s Bhutan for details.

To/From Nepal For Nepal, local buses pass the Tenzing Norgay Central Bus Terminal every 15 minutes for the border town of Panitanki (₹20, one hour). Share jeeps to Kakarbhitta (₹70) are readily available in Siliguri. The Indian border post in Panitanki is oﬃcially open 24 hours and the Nepali post in Kakarbhitta is open from 7am to 7pm. Onward from Kakarbhitta there are numerous buses to Kathmandu (17 hours) and other destinations. Bhadrapur Airport, 23km southwest of Kakarbhitta, has regular flights to Kathmandu (US$147) on Yeti Airlines (www.yetiairlines.com), Buddha Air (www.buddhaair.com) or Agni Air (www. agniair.com). Visas for Nepal can be obtained at the border (bring two passport photos), in Kolkata or New Delhi (see p1177).

hmid-Sep–mid-Jun) protects 114 sq km of lush forests and grasslands along the Torsa River and is a refuge for over 50 Indian onehorned rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis). The best time to visit is mid-October to May, particularly March and April when wild elephants, deer and tigers (rarely seen) are attracted by new grass growth. Your best chance of spotting a rhino is on an elephant ride (Indian/foreigner ₹200/600 per hr; h5-8am), though these lumbering safaris are often booked out by the tourist lodges. Even if you are staying at Jaldaphara Tourist Lodge for a night you are not guaranteed a ride, as full occupancy is double that of their daily elephant quota.

Jeep safaris (4/8 passengers ₹1860/2260, 40% less for Indians) operate in the early

tours (per person Indian/foreigner ₹4200/4500; hdeparts 10am Sat, returns 5pm Sun) from

Hotel Relax HOTEL $ (%262304; Madarihat; d ₹500) The Relax is the

best private option, opposite the Jaldhapara Tourist Lodge, but is still quite simple, with private bathrooms (hot water in buckets ₹10) and thundering road noise. Deluxe rooms were under construction at time of research. Simple set meals are available for ₹50.

8 Getting There & Away

Jaldhapara is 124km east of Siliguri. Local buses run every hour or so between Siliguri and Madarihat (₹66, four hours). There are also daily mail trains (unreserved seat ₹38, three to four hours), leaving Siliguri at 6am and 5.35pm, returning from Madarihat at 7am and 1.30pm. From Madarihat to the park headquarters at Hollong is 7km. A return taxi costs ₹400, including waiting time, plus you’ll also have to pay the ₹150 vehicle entry and parking fees.

Siliguri to Jaldhapara, which include an elephant ride, transport, accommodation at the Hollong Tourist Lodge and all meals. Mithun of Wild Planet Travel Desk (%9735028733; easthimalayan3@yahoo.com) and Hotel Relax can often book accommodation and elephant rides when no-one else can and is probably your best option for a DIY trip. Budget travellers should bear in mind that an hour-long elephant ride is probably going to end up costing a minimum US$40 per person, after all costs are added in. Bring mosquito repellent.

Nestled near the Nepal border, halfway between Siliguri and Darjeeling, the lowprofile hill station of Mirik is surrounded by an undulating carpet of tea estates, orange orchards, cardamom plantations and forests of tall, dark Japanese cedars. It has a quiet lakeside charm and relaxed vibe that make it quite diﬀerent from Darjeeling or Kalimpong.

4 Sleeping & Eating

1 Sights & Activities

The two lodges should be booked well in advance through the West Bengal Tourist Oﬃce in Siliguri, Darjeeling or Kolkata, or online at www.westbengaltourism.gov.in. They don’t take direct bookings. Hollong Tourist Lodge JUNGLE LODGE $$ (%262228; d ₹2000, plus compulsory breakfast & dinner ₹300 per person) This wooden forestry

lodge right in the heart of the park is easily the best place to stay, though booking one of the six rooms can be a real challenge. You can spot animals right from the verandah and you are guaranteed a morning elephant ride. Book up to three months in advance. Jaldhapara Tourist Lodge HOTEL $$ (%262230; Madarihat; d ₹1600, with AC ₹22003000;a) This functional WBTDC hotel is just

outside the park in Madarihat town and has

485

Mirik % 0354 / POP 9180 / ELEV 1770M

Mirik is centred on the artificial murkycoloured Sumendu Lake and there’s a pleasant walk around its 3.5km circumference. Pedal boats (per 30min ₹42) can be hired near the central bridge, which is also the place for pony rides (half/full round-the-lake trips ₹80/160). Perched high above Mirik, the large Kagyud-school Bokar Gompa is very active. Look for the unusually modern Wheel of Life mural, depicting cars, soldiers and even joggers! It’s a bracing walk up Monastery Rd from opposite Hotel Jagjeet. A short walk from the monastery is the Rameetay Dara viewpoint, though you’ll get better Himalayan views from the helipad beside Swiss Cottage, on a hilltop on the southwest corner of the lake.

S S L E E P I N GM AT WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING S LI&R E EI KP I NI N G G& E AT I N G

morning and afternoon and stop at viewing platforms, but again these can be hard to arrange unless you are on a tour. The West Bengal tourist oﬃces in Kolkata (p469) and Siliguri (p483) organise overnight

rooms in wooden and concrete blocks or in new cottages. All meals are included in the room rates, so singles get a 25% discount.

486

For a great two-hour walk, take a Darjeelingbound jeep 8km out of town and walk back past a charming Dr Seuss landscape of conical-hilled tea estates.

facilities but both Axis Bank and the State Bank of India have ATMs next to Hotel Jagjeet.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Share jeeps depart every 30 minutes between 6am and 3.40pm to Siliguri (₹60, 2½ hours) and hourly to Darjeeling (₹60, 2½ hours). Jeeps to Kurseong (₹60, three hours) run in the early morning and at 3pm.

Mirik has good value accommodation. All the places here are within 100m of each other in the lakeside settlement known as Krishnanagar. Buddha Lodge GUESTHOUSE $ (%9609982057; r ₹250-450) The five spotless,

comfy and carpeted rooms with private hot water bathrooms are the best value in Mirik; the bright upstairs rooms are larger with appealing wood panelling and tiled bathrooms. Hotel Ratnagiri HOTEL $$ (%9832010013; www.hotelratnagiri.com; d ₹4001000, ste ₹2000) There are lots of diﬀerent

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

rooms here, the best being the warm, woodpanelled upstairs doubles with cute sloping ceilings. Some rooms have balconies and views of Sumendu Lake; all have TV and geyser. The pleasant garden restaurant (mains ₹30 to ₹180) out back oﬀers such exotic fare as lasagne and sizzlers. Hotel Jagjeet HOTEL $$ (%2243231; www.jagjeethotel.com; d ₹1300-2400)

The best hotel in town has a wide variety of rooms. The super-deluxe options (₹1800) come with balconies, while the luxury rooms (₹2400) are surprisingly sleek and stylish. The cheapest rooms are in the basement. The restaurant-bar (mains ₹100 to ₹175) is easily the best in town, serving really excellent thalis. Toothsome sweets, including barfi (fudge-like sweet), are sold at a separate counter. Lodge Ashirvad GUESTHOUSE $ (%2243272; s ₹200, d ₹350-450) A friendly,

family-run budget hotel down a lane just oﬀ the main road. The rooms are simple with very thin, but clean, mattresses. Only the priciest rooms have geysers; a bucket of hot water costs ₹15.

Lohit Sagar Restaurant INDIAN $ (mains ₹30-80; hbreakfast & lunch) Beside the

taxi stand, and near the lake, is this pure-veg cafeteria-type place catering to lakeside day trippers, with good snacks and South Indian favourites.

8 Information

Ashirvard Lodge has an attached internet cafe (per hr ₹30). There are no money-changing

8 Getting There & Away

Kurseong % 0354 / POP 40,100 / ELEV 1460M

Kurseong, 32km south of Darjeeling, is the little sister of (and quiet alternative to) the Queen of the Hills further up the track. Its name derives from the Lepcha word kurson-rip, a reference to the small white orchid prolific in this area. Surrounded by manicured tea estates, it is the southern terminus for the charming steam-powered toy trains of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. Hill Cart Rd (Tenzing Norgay Rd) – the noisy, shop-lined main thoroughfare from Siliguri to Darjeeling – and its remarkably close shadow, the railway line, wind through town. There are numerous good walks in the area, including one to Eagle’s Crag (2km return) that aﬀords splendid views down the Teesta Valley and the steamy plains to the south. Makaibari TEA ESTATE (%2330181; Pankhabari Rd; www.makaibari.com; hTue-Sat) Anyone interested in tea should

visit this organic and biodynamic tea estate. The factory is open to visitors and in between the huge sorting and drying machines and the fields of green bushes you may just run into the owner, local tea guru Rajah Banerjee. Mornings are the best time to see the production process. The estate is 4km below Kurseong along Pankhabari Rd, and 1km below Cochrane Place. A taxi here costs ₹100 to ₹150, or it’s a pleasant downhill walk (it’s much steeper coming back so take a shared taxi from Cochrane Place). En route, the lushly overgrown old graveyard at St Andrews has poignant reminders of the tea-planter era. Makaibari also runs a homestay and volunteer program (www.volmakaibari.org; see p41) and oﬀers courses for tea professionals.

4 Sleeping & Eating oCochrane Place

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$

(%2330703; www.imperialchai.com; 132 Pankhabari Rd; s/d from ₹2250/2650; i) With 360-degree

views over tea plantations, distant Himalayan peaks and the twinkling lights of Siliguri, this quirky, charming boutique hotel is a destination in its own right. The 31 rooms are individually decorated with divans and antiques and have either a view or a balcony. Delicious meals and tea tastings are available, making it a good lunch stop if you have your own transport. The hotel is wheelchairfriendly, can provide Bagdogra Airport and NJP train station pick-up and oﬀers guided village and tea estate walks, as well as massage and beauty treatments. Kurseong Tourist Lodge HOTEL $$ (%2345608; Hill Cart Rd; d ₹1200-1500) This old-

8 Getting There & Away

Numerous share jeeps run to Darjeeling (₹50, 1½ hours), Siliguri (₹50, 1½ hours), Kalimpong (₹110, 3½ to four hours) and Mirik (₹80, 2½ hours). The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway’s steam toy train to Darjeeling (9D; 2nd/1st class ₹22/144, three hours) leaves at 3pm, while the diesel version (1D; originating at New Jalpaiguri) departs around 1.35pm. A diesel train (originating in Darjeeling) to Siliguri (2D; 2nd/1st class ₹44/247, four hours) departs at 12.05pm.

Darjeeling % 0354 / POP 109,160 / ELEV 2135M

Spread in ribbons over a steep mountain ridge, surrounded by emerald-green tea plantations and with a backdrop of jagged white Himalayan peaks floating over distant clouds, the archetypal hill station of Darjeeling is rightly West Bengal’s premier attraction. When you aren’t gazing at Khangchendzonga (8598m), you can explore colonialera buildings, visit Buddhist monasteries and spot snow leopards and red pandas at the nearby zoo. The steep narrow streets bustle with an array of Himalayan faces from Sikkim, Bhutan, Nepal and Tibet and when energies start to flag a good, steaming Darjeeling brew is never far away. Most tourists visit after the monsoon (October and November) and during spring (mid-March to the end of May) when skies

487

History

This area belonged to the Buddhist chogyals (kings) of Sikkim until 1780, when it was annexed by the invading Gurkhas from Nepal. The East India Company gained control of the region in 1816 then returned most of the lands back to Sikkim in exchange for British control over any future border disputes. During one such dispute in 1828, two British oﬃcers stumbled across the Dorje Ling monastery, on a tranquil forested ridge, and passed word to Kolkata (Calcutta) that it would be a perfect site for a sanatorium; they were sure to have also mentioned its strategic military importance in the region. The chogyal of Sikkim (still grateful for the return of his kingdom) happily agreed to lease the uninhabited land to the East India Company for the annual fee of £3000. In 1835 the hill station of Darjeeling (Dorje Ling) was born and the first tea bushes were planted that same year. Forest gradually made way for colonial houses and tea plantations, and by 1857 the population of Darjeeling reached 10,000, mainly because of a massive influx of Gurkha labourers from Nepal. After Independence, the Gurkhas became the main political force in Darjeeling and friction with the state government led to calls for a separate state of Gorkhaland in the 1980s. In 1986, violence and riots orchestrated by the Gurkha National Liberation Front (GNLF) brought Darjeeling to a standstill, leading to the Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council (DGHC) being given a large measure of autonomy from the state government. Calls for full secession have continued, and in 2007 the political party Gorkha Janmukti Morcha (GJM), headed by Bimal Gurung, was formed out of the GNLF. It has

S 8 WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING 8 RJEELING DA

fashioned, government-run lodge has inviting wood-lined rooms that feature valley views. The toy train whistles past the popular cafe, where you can snack on momos (Tibetan dumplings), or you can enjoy a meal at its scenic restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹115). Look for the much-photographed ‘Hurry burry spoils the curry’ traﬃc sign across the road.

are dry, panoramas are clear and temperatures are pleasant. Tourist attractions and other establishments often extend their hours during these periods (specified as ‘high season’ in the following reviews), although they are not set in stone so check ahead. Darjeeling sprawls over a west-facing slope in a confusing web of interconnecting roads and steep flights of steps. The two main squares are Chowrasta, near the top of town, and Clubside junction, which are linked by pedestrianised Nehru Rd (aka the Mall), the main shopping street. Hill Cart Rd (aka Tenzing Norgay Rd) runs the length of the bustling lower bazaar and is Darjeeling’s major vehicle thoroughfare.

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WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

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To Happy Valley Tea Estate (1km); Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park & Himalayan Mountaineering Institute; Jorethang

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488

1 Sights

Tiger Hill

VIEWPOINT

To watch the dawn light break over a spectacular 250km stretch of Himalayan horizon, including Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8501m), Makalu (8475m) to the far west,

489

Darjeeling æ Sights 1 Bengal Natural History Museum...........C1 2 Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (Toy Train) .......................................... A6 3 Dhirdham Mandir .................................. A6 4 Manjushree Centre of Tibetan Culture................................................. C5 Trek Mate ......................................(see 24)

ú Eating Dekevas.........................................(see 20) 16 Frank Ross Café..................................... C4 17 Glenary's ................................................ C3 18 Hasty Tasty ............................................ C4 19 Hot Pizza Place ...................................... C2 20 Kunga's................................................... C4 Lunar Restaurant............................ (see 6) 21 Park Restaurant..................................... C5 22 Shangri-La.............................................. D3 23 Sonam's Kitchen ................................... D4 û ü Drinking Buzz................................................(see 17) Café Coffee Day............................(see 32) Elgin ................................................. (see 7) Glenary's ........................................(see 17) 24 House of Tea .......................................... C4

rise early and get to Tiger Hill (2590m), 11km south of Darjeeling, above Ghum. The sunrise over the Himalaya from here has become a major tourist attraction, with convoys of jeeps leaving Darjeeling for Tiger Hill every morning around 4.30am. At the summit, you can either pay ₹10 to stand in the pavilion grounds, or buy a ticket for one of the heated lounges in the pavilion (₹20 to ₹40). It can be a real bunfight, even outside of the high season, with crowds of hundreds jostling for the best viewing spots.

26 Sunset Lounge .......................................D2

Windamere Hotel ..........................(see 15) þ Shopping 27 Dorjee Himalayan Artefacts ..................C5 28 Hayden Hall ............................................C5 29 Life & Leaf Fair Trade Shop...................D3 30 Nathmull's Tea Room ............................B5 31 Oxford Book & Stationery Company..............................................D2 32 Rink Mall..................................................B5 33 Rope ........................................................C4 Information 34 Adventures Unlimited............................D4 35 Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council ..............D2 36 Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council Booth....................................................C4 37 Das Studios ............................................C3 Frank Ross Pharmacy...................(see 16) Hayden Hall .................................. (see 28) 38 Himalayan Travels .................................C6 39 Planter's Hospital...................................D4 40 Ridhi Siddhi.............................................C3 41 Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks ....................................................C5 42 Sikkim Tourist Office .............................D3 43 Somewhere Over the Rainbow Treks & Tours ......................................C2 Transport 44 Chowk Bazaar Bus & Jeep Station..................................................B3 Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (Toy Train) ................................... (see 2) 45 Darjeeling Transport Corporation .........................................B5 46 Indian Airlines Office..............................D3 47 Pineridge Travels ...................................D3

Organised sunrise trips (usually with a detour to Batastia Loop on the way back) can be booked through a travel agency or directly with jeep drivers at the Clubside taxi stand. It’s also possible to jump on a jeep going to Tiger Hill from along Gandhi or Laden La Rds between 4am and 4.30am, allowing you to check whether skies are clear before you go. Return trips cost around ₹80 per person or ₹600-800 for a vehicle. One excellent idea is to take the jeep one way to Tiger Hill (or back to Ghum) and then spend the morning/day visiting the

S S I G H T S DA WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING S I GRHJTESE L I N G

ÿ Sleeping 5 Andy's Guesthouse ............................... D5 6 Dekeling Hotel........................................ C4 7 Elgin ........................................................ C2 8 Hotel Aliment ......................................... C6 9 Hotel New Galaxy .................................. D5 10 Hotel Seven Seventeen......................... C4 11 Hotel Tower View................................... D5 12 Hotel Tranquility .................................... D5 13 Main Olde Bellevue Hotel...................... D3 14 Travellers Inn ......................................... D6 15 Windamere Hotel....................................D1

25 Joey's Pub...............................................C5

490

KHANGCHENDZONGA VIEWS The Himalayan skyline is a major attraction in Darjeeling. The skyline is dominated by Khangchendzonga, India’s highest peak and the world’s third-highest mountain (until 1852 it was thought to be the world’s highest). The name ‘Khangchendzonga’ is derived from the Tibetan words for ‘great five-peaked snow fortress’. On either side of the main massif are Kabru (7338m), Jannu (7710m) and Pandim (6691m), all serious peaks in their own right. Apart from popular dawn views from Tiger Hill, an early morning stroll around Bhanu Bhakta Sarani, which runs from Chowrasta around the north side of Observatory Hill, oﬀers several stunning viewpoints.

monasteries of Ghum before wandering back to Darjeeling. You can take either the busy main road or the much quieter Tenzing Norgay Rd, via Alu Bari, (1½ hrs), which despite the lack of mountain views also makes a nice cycling route. WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

Happy Valley Tea Estate TEA ESTATE (Pamphawati Gurungni Rd; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)

This tea estate below Hill Cart Rd, is worth visiting when the plucking and processing are in progress. An employee will whisk you through the aromatic factory and its various processes before politely demanding a tip – ₹20 from each visitor is appropriate. Take the marked turn-oﬀ about 1km northwest of town on Hill Cart Rd.

Observatory Hill

SACRED SITE

Sacred to both Buddhists and Hindus, this hill was the site of the original Dorje Ling monastery that gave the town its name. Today, devotees come to a temple in a small cave, below the crest of the hill, to honour Mahakala, a Buddhist deity and an angry form of the Hindu god Shiva. The summit is marked by several shrines, a flurry of colourful prayer flags and the ringing notes from numerous devotional bells. A path leading up to the hill through giant Japanese cedars starts about 300m along Bhanu Bhakta Sarani from Chowrasta; watch out for marauding monkeys. Disappointingly, there are no mountain views. Gompas

MONASTERIES

Darjeeling and Ghum are home to a number of fascinating Buddhist monasteries. The most scenic is Bhutia Busty Gompa, with Khangchendzonga providing a spectacular backdrop. Originally on Observatory Hill, it was rebuilt in its present lower location by the chogyals of Sikkim in the 19th century. It houses fine murals depicting the life of Buddha. To get here, follow CR Das Rd

steeply downhill for five minutes from Chowrasta Square, past a trinity of colourful Buddhist rock carvings. Climbing back up is a 20-minute slog.

Yiga Choling Gompa (Ghum; camera per photo ₹10), the region’s most famous monas-

tery, has wonderful old murals and is home to 30 monks of the Gelugpa (yellow-hat) school. Built in 1850, it enshrines a 5m-high statue of Jampa (Maitreya, or ‘Future Buddha’) and 300 beautifully bound Tibetan texts. It’s just west of Ghum, about a 10-minute walk oﬀ Hill Cart Rd. Other gompas of interest nearby include the fortress-like Sakya Guru Gompa, which has pujas (prayers) between 5.30am and 7.30am (useful if returning from a dawn visit to Tiger Hill). The very active Samten Choling Gompa, just downhill, has the largest Buddha statue in West Bengal, a memorial chorten dedicated to German mystic Lama Govinda and even a small cafe. All three gompas are within 10 minutes’ walk of each other on Hill Cart Rd and can be reached by share jeep or train from Darjeeling (₹15); some people organise to visit on the way back from Tiger Hill. About halfway between Ghum and Darjeeling is the huge Druk Sangak Choling Gompa, also known as Dali Gompa, inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 1993. Known for its vibrant frescoes, it is home to 300 Himalayan monks who study philosophy, literature, astronomy, meditation, dance and music. Japanese Peace Pagoda

BUDDHIST SIGHT

Perched on a hillside at the end of AJC Bose Rd, this gleaming white pagoda (hpujas 4.30-6am & 4.30-6.30pm) is one of more than 70 pagodas built by the Japanese Buddhist Nipponzan Myohoji organisation around the world. Drumming resonates through the forested grounds during their daily pujas.

It’s a pleasant, gentle 30-minute uphill walk from Clubside along Gandhi and AJC Bose Rds, past the implausible-sounding Institute of Astroparticle Physics and Space Science. Padmaja Naidu Himalayan ZOO Zoological Park (admission incl Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Indian/foreigner ₹40/100; h8.30am-5.30pm FriWed, ticket counter closes 4pm) This zoo, one of

Himalayan Mountaineering MUSEUM Institute (HMI; %2254087; www.hmi-darjeeling.com; admission incl zoo Indian/foreigner ₹40/100; h8.30am4.30pm Fri-Wed) Tucked away within the

grounds of the zoo, this prestigious mountaineering institute was founded in 1954 and has provided training for some of India’s leading mountaineers. Within the complex is the fascinating Everest Museum, with

491

Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre MUSEUM (Lebong Cart Rd; hdawn-dusk Mon-Sat) Estab-

lished in 1959, this refugee centre comprises a home for the aged, school, orphanage, clinic, gompa and craft workshops that produce carpets, woodcarvings, leather work and woollen items. There’s also an interesting, politically charged photographic exhibition portraying the establishment and workings of the centre. The refugees are welcoming, so wander through the workshops. The handicrafts are for sale in the showroom (%2252552; h9am5.30pm), where proceeds go straight back into the Tibetan community. See p496 for details regarding Tibetan carpets. The quickest way to reach the centre is to walk downhill from the north side of Bhanu Bhakta Sarani; take the alley down beside the Hotel Dolphin. The 20-minute walk requires a steep climb back. A chartered taxi via North Point costs around ₹300 return.

THE TOY TRAIN The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, known affectionately as the toy train, made its first journey along its precipice-topping, 2ft-wide tracks in September 1881 and is one of the few hill railways still operating in India. The panting train passes within feet of local storefronts as it weaves in and out of the main road, bringing traffic to a standstill and tooting its whistle incessantly for almost the entire trip. The train has been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1999. There is a daily steam service to Kurseong and a diesel train to NJP train station. It’s an exhausting seven to eight-hour haul to/from NJP, so if you simply want to experience the train, consider the steam train to/from Kurseong. During the high season there are also joy rides (₹240) that leave Darjeeling at 10.40am (14D), 1.20pm (16D) and 4pm (18D) for a two-hour steam-powered return trip. The service stops for half an hour in Ghum, India’s highest railway station, to visit the small railway museum (admission ₹20; 10am-1pm, 2-4pm) and pauses on the way back at the scenic Batastia Loop (see p492). For a budget taste of the train take the 10.15am passenger service to Ghum. Book at least a day ahead at the train station (Hill Cart Rd), or online at www.irctc .co.in. For more on the service and efforts to maintain it, see www.dhrs.org.

S S I G H T S DA WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING S I GRHJTESE L I N G

India’s best, was established in 1958 to study, conserve and preserve Himalayan fauna. Housed within the rocky and forested environment are Himalayan megafauna such as musk deer, red pandas and Tibetan wolves. The zoo, and its attached snow leopardbreeding centre, are home to the world’s largest single captive population of snow leopards. The zoo is a pleasant 20-minute downhill walk down from Chowrasta along Jawahar Rd West; alternatively, take a share jeep (₹10, about 10 minutes) or a private taxi (₹70) from the Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station.

fascinating detail from the 1922 and 1924 Everest expeditions, which both set oﬀ from Darjeeling. Look for the Carl Zeiss telescope presented by Adolf Hitler to the head of the Nepali army. Just beside the museum, near the spot where Tenzing Norgay was cremated, stands the Tenzing statue. The intrepid Everest summiteer lived in Darjeeling for most of his life and was the director of the institute for many years. Various mountaineering courses are oﬀered here; see p493 for more information.

492

TEA TOURISM We spoke to Makaibari Tea Estate and Nathmull’s, two of the Darjeeling region’s most experienced tea companies, for some tips on the best places to indulge in the area’s most famous export. Visit The easiest places to learn about tea production are Makaibari Estate in Kurseong and Happy Valley outside Darjeeling. March to May is the busiest time, but occasional plucking also occurs from June to November. Outside of high season there’s no plucking on Sunday, which means most of the machinery isn’t working on Monday. Stay Overnight with a tea pickers family at a homestay (%9832447774; www.volmakaibari. org; per person incl food ₹600) at Makaibari Estate and you’ll get to join your hosts for a morning’s work in the tea bushes. Pick your own leaves, watch them being processed and then return home with a batch of your very own hand-plucked Darjeeling tea. How’s that for a personalised gift!

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

Drink Where better to sip a cup of Darjeeling tea? You can sample diﬀerent grades of black, white and green teas by the cup at Sunset Lounge (p495) and House of Tea (p495). The pukka afternoon tea at the Windamere Hotel (₹375; h4-6pm) is a joy for aficionados of all things colonial, with shortcake, scones, cheese and pickle sandwiches and brews from the Castleton Tea Estate. Splash Out Accommodation doesn’t get any more exclusive than top-end Glenburn (www.glenburnteaestate.com; s/d ₹11,000/14,000), between Darjeeling and Kurseong, a working tea estate/resort that boasts five staﬀ for every guest. A stay at Glenburn is rumoured to have given director Wes Anderson inspiration for his film The Darjeeling Limited.

Lloyd Botanical Gardens BOTANICAL GARDENS (%2252358; admission free; h8am-4.30pm)

These pleasant gardens contain an impressive collection of Himalayan plants, most famously orchids and rhododendrons, as well as temperate trees from around the world. Follow the signs along Lochnager Rd from the Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station, until the hum of cicadas replaces the honking of jeeps. A map is posted at the oﬃce at the top of the park.

Batastia Loop

MEMORIAL

If you’re travelling on the toy train, or walking back from Tiger Hill, look out for this famous railway loop and the sobering Gorkha war memorial (admission ₹10; hdawn-dusk). Some tours stop here after the sunrise trip at Tiger Hill; the views are almost as good, and the atmosphere much more serene. Bengal Natural History Museum MUSEUM (Bishop Eric Benjamin Rd; adult ₹10; h9am-5pm)

Established in 1903, this minor sight houses a moth-eaten collection of Himalayan and Bengali species, hidden away in a compound just oﬀ Bishop Eric Benjamin Rd. The giant leeches and horrific baby animals pickled in jars are guaranteed to provoke a shudder.

Dhirdham Mandir

HINDU TEMPLE

The most conspicuous Hindu temple in Darjeeling is a replica of the famous Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu. It’s easy to find – just below the Darjeeling train station. There’s a great view over Darjeeling from its grounds.

Activities

See p498 for information on treks around Darjeeling. White-Water Rafting

RAFTING

At the time of writing, white-water rafting trips on the Teesta River from Teesta Bazaar along the road to Kalimpong, had been suspended following a fatal accident. Check with the DGHC to see if trips have resumed. Expect scenic/adventure trips to cost around ₹450/800 per person, with a minimum of four people. Transport will cost another ₹1500 per jeep, or take a shared jeep for Gangtok and get oﬀ at Teesta Bazaar. The friendly DGHC-run Chitrey Wayside Inn (%9434862561; dm/d ₹150/500), 1.5km from the bazaar, overlooks the Teesta River. Private companies, such as Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks (p497), oﬀer similar routes for a minimum of four people; prices include lunch and transport.

The rapids are graded from Grade II to Grade IV, though dam construction has limited runs in recent years. The best times for rafting are September to November and March to June. Pony Rides

HORSE RIDING

From Chowrasta, children can take a ride around Observatory Hill for ₹100, or through tea estates to visit a monastery for ₹200 per hour.

C Courses Language

Beginner and advanced lessons in written and spoken Tibetan are oﬀered at the Manjushree Centre of Tibetan Culture (%2252977; www.manjushreetibcentre.org; 12 Ghandi Rd; 3-/6-/9-month courses ₹11,970/17,010/22,050; hmid-Mar–mid-Dec). Accommodation for stu-

Mountaineering

The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (p491) runs 15-day adventure courses (Indian/ foreigner ₹2000/US$325) in January and February, which include climbing, jungle survival and canoeing, for those aged between 18 and 30. There are also 28-day basic and advanced mountaineering courses (Indian/foreigner ₹4000/US$650), from March to May and September to December. Some courses are women only. Foreigners should apply directly to the centre at least three months in advance.

T Tours During the high season the DGHC and other travel agencies oﬀer a variety of tours around Darjeeling, usually including the zoo, Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre and several viewpoints. See p488 for Tiger Hill sunrise tour information. Taxis can be hired for custom tours for around ₹750 per half-day.

4 Sleeping Only a small selection of Darjeeling’s many hotels is mentioned here. Prices given are for the high season (October to early December and mid-March to June), when it’s wise to book ahead. In the low season prices can drop by 50%. Top-end hotels oﬀer rooms on the ‘American Plan’, with breakfast, lunch and dinner

oAndy’s Guesthouse

493

GUESTHOUSE $

(%2253125; 102 Dr Zakir Hussain Rd; s/d from ₹300/400) This simple, spotless, stone-walled

budget place has airy, carpeted rooms, a comfy common area and a rooftop terrace with a great view. Mrs Gurung provides a friendly boarding-house atmosphere (no restaurant) that makes it quieter than most other budget places. There’s a good laundry service.

oDekeling Hotel

GUESTHOUSE $$

(%2254159; www.dekeling.com; 51 Gandhi Rd; d without bathroom ₹700, d ₹1300-2200; iW) Spotless

Dekeling is full of charming touches like coloured diamond-pane windows, a traditional bukhari (wood-burning heater) in the cosy lounge/library, wood panelling and slopingattic ceilings, plus some of the best views in town. Tibetan owners Sangay and Norbu are the perfect hosts. The whole place is a perfect combination of clean and homey, right down to the well-bathed and adorable dog, Drolma.

Windamere Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%2254041; www.windamerehotel.com; Jawahar Rd West; s/d full board from ₹7300/9400; i) This

quaint, rambling relic of the Raj on Observatory Hill oﬀers Darjeeling’s most atmospheric digs. The charming superior room block was once a boarding house for British tea planters, and the well-tended grounds are spacious with lots of pleasant seating areas. The comfortable rooms, fireplaces and hot water bottles oﬀer just the right measures of comfort and fustiness; a bit like staying at a rich aunt’s house. It’s a particularly great place to spend Christmas. Keep your eyes peeled for the Jan Morris poem in the tearoom. Hotel Aliment HOTEL $ (%2255068; alimentwe@sify.com; 40 Dr Zakir Hussain Rd; s ₹150, d ₹300-600; i) A budget travel-

lers’ favourite, with a good top-floor restaurant (and cold beer), books, helpful owners and wood-lined rooms. The upstairs rooms (₹600) have a TV and valley views. All the double rooms have geysers, but they only operate for an hour or so in the evening. The singles are a big step down in quality. Hotel Tower View HOTEL $ (%2254452; krimilan@yahoo.com; 12 Dr Zakir Hussain Rd; dm ₹80, r ₹100-350) Rooms are

basic but clean (the rooms with a view are best, as others can be cold and damp), but the real draw to this sociable place is the

S C O U R S E SDA WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING C O RUJRESEELSI N G

dents and tourists is available at the attached Tibet Home (rooms ₹1500). Classes in Tibetan Buddhism are also possible.

included; taxes and service charges usually add 15% to 20% to the bill.

494

cosy restaurant area that doubles as the family kitchen and lounge. Hotel Tranquility HOTEL $ (%2257678; hoteltranquility@yahoo.co.in; Dr Zakir Hussain Rd; d ₹400-500; W) This good-value

place is sparkling clean, with 24-hour hot water, nice lobby seating and small but neat baby-blue rooms. The helpful owner is a local schoolteacher, and can provide all kinds of info about the area. Revolver BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%225370; www.revolver.in; 110 Gandhi Rd; r ₹800900; W) This Beatles-themed hotel is a must

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

for fans. The five small but stylish rooms are each named after one of the Fab Four (plus Brian Epstein), so you can choose your favourite Moptop (John fills up first; no-one likes Ringo). The hotel is chock-ablock with Beatles memorabilia, including ‘Beatles Rock Band’ on the resident PlayStation 3. The downstairs restaurant serves good coﬀee and interesting Naga set meals (₹55 to ₹70) and the owners will even give you a momo masterclass if arranged in advance. It’s certainly well thought-out but it could perhaps do with a bit more oldfashioned family warmth. The entrance is easily missed behind the Union Church.

Travellers Inn HOTEL $$ (%2258497; Dr Zakir Hussain Rd; www.darjeeling travellersinn.com; s/d/ste ₹1100/1500/2600)

This well-decorated, faintly stylish hotel comes complete with polished-wood panelling, framed old photos of Darjeeling and a terrace restaurant with terrific views (mains ₹40 to ₹80). The mountain-lodge-style rooms are comfy but dimly lit and hot water is in the evening only. On Sundays forget about that lie-in and clap along to the loud gospel music from the church next door.

Elgin HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%2257226; www.elginhotels.com; HD Lama Rd; s/d/ste incl full board ₹6500/6800/7900; iW) A

grand yet friendly hotel full of classy ambience, the Elgin is more modern and formal than the Windamere but has less of a sense of history. The restaurant is elegant, as is the great bar and small library, and the smallbut-lovely garden terrace is the perfect place to relax over a beer (₹185) or high tea (₹465; h4-6pm). The cosy ‘attic room’ underneath the dripping eaves is especially charming. Mayfair Darjeeling HOTEL $$$ (%2256376; www.mayfairhotels.com; Jawahar Rd West; d with breakfast & dinner from ₹9000; W)

Originally a maharaja’s summer palace but renovated within an inch of its life, this plush choice sits among manicured gardens and a bizarre collection of kitschy sculptures. Soft carpets and coal fires add to the warm welcome; there’s a choice of DVDs and a comfortable bar. The outside and common areas don’t have quite the cosy charm of the Elgin, but the plush rooms are well decorated in warm colours and art prints. The children’s playroom makes it good for families. Dekeling Resort at Hawk’s HERITAGE HOTEL $$ Nest (%2253092; www.dekeling.com; 2 AJC Bose Rd; d ₹3300; www.dekeling.com) Run by the good

people at Dekeling, this is a quieter, more exclusive place, 1km outside of Darjeeling up a steep hill. The four 130-year-old, colonialstyle suites come with antique touches and fireplaces in the room.

Hotel Seven Seventeen HOTEL $$ (%2255099; www.hotel717.com; 26 HD Lama Rd; main block s/d/tr from ₹1500/1800/2000) A

friendly Tibetan-themed place on the edge of the bazaar with a good restaurant and clean, fresh rooms. The older annexe (s/d ₹1300/1500) is cheaper but darker and less cheery.

Hotel New Galaxy HOTEL $ (%5520771; Dr Zakir Hussain Rd; s ₹150-250, d ₹300) A clean, simple budget option almost

opposite Andy’s, with wood-panelled walls, smallish rooms and hot-water buckets for ₹10. Try for room 104 – it has the best views across to the mountains.

Main Olde Bellevue Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2254178; www.darjeelinghotel.co.uk; Chowrasta; budget/deluxe d ₹1250/1950) Rooms at

this 19th-century hotel are spacious and fairly well maintained and have a great location, though the service is sleepy at best. Opt for a room in the creaky chaletstyle upper building, as these have a lot more colonial charm. Don’t confuse this with the next-door Bellevue Hotel, run by a feuding brother.

5 Eating Most restaurants close by 8pm or 9pm.

oSonam’s Kitchen

CONTINENTAL $

(142 Dr Zakir Hussain Rd; mains ₹80-120; h8am2pm, 5-8pm) Providing an island of real

brewed coﬀee in an ocean of tea, Sonam

serves up lovely breakfasts, French toast, pancakes, fresh soups (nettle in season) and pasta; the deliciously chunky wholemeal sandwiches can be packed to go for picnics. Home-style dinner mains need to be preordered at least an hour in advance, so someone can dash up the street to stock up at the nearby veg stalls. It’s a tiny place so try not to linger during mealtimes.

Dekevas TIBETAN $ (51 Gandhi Rd; mains ₹60-90) Next door to Kun-

Frank Ross Café MULTICUISINE $ (14 Nehru Rd; mains ₹60-120, set breakfast ₹90-120)

just below Dekeling Hotel is perhaps the best vegetarian Indian restaurant in town, with good service and great views from the large windows. The masala dosas (lentilflour pancake filled with vegetables) come with yummy dried fruit and nuts.

There’s a diner-feel at this strictly vegetarian self-service place, with a wide-ranging menu, including pizzas, South Indian dosa and even enchiladas and nachos. The attached Frank Ross Pharmacy has groceries for self-caterers. Park Restaurant INDIAN/THAI $$ (%2255270; 41 Laden La Rd; mains ₹70-140) The

Glenary’s INDIAN/CONTINENTAL $$ (Nehru Rd; mains ₹120-210; hnoon-9pm, later in high season) This elegant restaurant atop the

famous bakery and cafe receives mainly rave reviews: of note are the Continental sizzlers, Chinese dishes, tandoori specials and veg gratin (good if you’re oﬀ spicy food). We’ve heard a few grumbles that it’s coasting on its reputation, but most people love it. Hot Pizza Place ITALIAN $ (HD Lama Rd; pizza ₹90-150) A cramped but

sociable one-table pizza joint with excellent pizza, pasta, paninis and salads. Come here also for breakfast, pancakes and good coﬀee, as well as that hard-to-find sausage fix. Service is friendly but slow. Shangri-La INDIAN $$ (Nehru Rd; mains ₹75-180) This classy modern

bar-restaurant near the top of the Mall oﬀers an upmarket version of the usual Indian/ Chinese/Continental food mix in stylish surrounds, with sleek wooden floors, clean tablecloths and friendly service. There are also a couple of stylish hotel rooms upstairs (d ₹2750). Kunga’s TIBETAN $ (51 Gandhi Rd; mains ₹60-90) Kunga’s is a cosy

wood-panelled place run by a friendly Tibetan family, strong on noodles and momos, with excellent juice and fruit museli curd.

Lunar Restaurant INDIAN $ (51 Gandhi Rd; mains ₹50-120) This classy spot

Hasty Tasty INDIAN $ (Nehru Rd; mains ₹30-80, thali ₹80) There’s noth-

ing fancy at this vegetarian self-service canteen, but the open kitchen churns out good South Indian dosas and several types of veg thali (set meals). Don’t be in a hurry.

Drinking

Glenary’s BAKERY (Nehru Rd; small pot ₹35, pastries ₹10-35; h8am8pm; iW) Below the restaurant, this cafe

has massive windows and good views – order your tea, select a cake, grab your book and sink into some wicker. It’s a great place to grab breakfast.

Café Coffee Day CAFE (h8am-8pm; coﬀee from ₹40) It’s almost heresy

to drink espresso in Darjeeling but if the caffeine calls you, this reliable chain has two locations, one at the Rink Mall, the other at Chowrastra, both with good coﬀee. House of Tea TEAHOUSE (Nehru Rd; tea ₹25-40; h9.15am-8pm) Sit and

sip a range of brewed teas from several local Goodricke estates before purchasing a package of your favourite leaves.

Sunset Lounge TEAHOUSE (20 Chowrastra Square; cup of tea ₹20-75; h9am8pm; W) This tearoom run by Nathmull’s Tea

oﬀers aficionados a range of teas by the cup, with baked treats, fine valley views and wi-fi. Bars

The top-end hotels all have bars; the Windamere is the most atmospheric place to kick back with an early evening G&T (₹200). Joey’s Pub PUB (SM Das Rd; beer ₹120; h11am-10pm) If your

preferred beverage comes in a pint not a pot,

S D R I N K I N GDA WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING DRR I NJKE IENLGI N G

intimate Park is deservedly very popular for its tasty North Indian curries and surprisingly authentic Thai dishes, including small but tasty tom kha gai (coconut chicken soup) and spicy green papaya salad. Grab a seat early or make a reservation.

495

ga’s, this is a similarly good place, oﬀering Tibetan butter tea, tsampa (roast barley flour) and a range of noodles for connoisseurs who can tell their thenthug (Tibetan noodles) from their sogthug (diﬀerent Tibetan noodles).

496

this long-standing pub near the post oﬃce is a great place to strike up conversations with other travellers. It has sports on TV, cold beer and Hot Toddys in the winter. It’s generally very friendly, though lone women have experienced some not entirely goodnatured teasing from staﬀ. Buzz (Nehru Rd; h4pm-9.30pm; beer ₹130) An

PUB

American-style sports bar in the basement at Glenary’s. If you get peckish you can order food from the upstairs restaurant.

Shopping

Nathmull’s Tea Room TEA (www.nathmulltea.com; Laden La Rd; h9am7.30pm Mon-Sat, daily high season) Darjeeling

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

tea is some of the finest tea in the world and Nathmull’s is the best place to pick up some, with over 50 varieties. Expect to pay ₹80 to ₹150 per 100g for a decent tea and up to ₹1400 per 100g for the finest flushes. You can ask for a tasting, which will be expertly brewed, and you can also buy attractive teapots, strainers and cosies. The Sarda family has run the business for 80 years and are very knowledgeable.

Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre

CARPETS

This centre makes gorgeous carpets to order, if you don’t mind waiting around six months for one to be made. Choose from the catalogue and they will ship the finished carpet to your home address (US$370 with shipping). Hayden Hall CRAFTS (www.haydenhall.org; Laden La Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Sells yak wool carpets as part of

its charitable work (₹5000 for a 1m by 1.8m carpet). There are Kashmiri-style carpets in most of the souvenir shops, but they’re not likely to be locally made. There are also good knitwear and bags made by local women. Dorjee Himalayan Artefacts HANDICRAFTS (Laden La Rd) This tiny Aladdin’s cave is

crammed full of Himalayan knick-knacks, from Tibetan amulets to cast Buddhas and silver prayer wheels. Walking in through the door is like entering a scene from a Kipling novel.

Life & Leaf Fair Trade Shop HANDICRAFTS (19 Nehru Rd) Supports local artisans and

environmental projects through the sale of organic honey, tea, rhododendron juice, plus bamboo bags, scarves and toys.

Oxford Book BOOKS & Stationery Company (Chowrasta; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, daily high season) The best bookshop in Darjeeling,

selling a good selection of novels and Himalayan-related titles. They mail worldwide. Trek Mate CLOTHING (sleeping bag ₹40 per day, plus ₹1500 deposit)

Clothing or gear can be hired from here, but the quality is pretty low.

Rope CLOTHING (NB Singh Rd) This is located just below

Clubside; stocks high quality imported clothing and trek boots.

8 Information

Emergency Police assistance booth (Chowrasta) Sadar Police Station (%2254422; Market Rd) Internet Access There are dozens of internet cafes around town; all generally charge ₹30 per hour. Compuset Centre (Gandhi Rd; h8am-8pm; W) Does printing (₹2) and will burn photos to a CD/DVD for ₹50/70, but doesn’t offer Skype. Cyber Planet (Dr Zakir Hussain Rd; h8am10pm) Opposite Sonam’s Kitchen. Glenary’s (p 496) Most convenient to the Mall; has wi-fi. Medical Services Planter’s Hospital (D&DMA Nursing Home; %2254327; Nehru Rd) The best private hospital. Money A number of shops and hotels around Darjeeling can change cash and travellers cheques at fairly good rates; shop around. Axis Bank (Rink Mall; h10.30am-3pm Mon-Fri) Changes cash and Amex travellers cheques, with an ATM. ICICI Bank ATM (Laden La Rd) Accepts most international bank and credit cards. Poddar’s (Laden La Rd; h9am-8.30pm) Better rates than the State Bank next door and changes most currencies and travellers cheques at no commission. It accepts credit cards and is a Western Union agent. It’s inside a clothing store. Ridhi Siddhi (Laden La Rd; h8.30am8.30pm) Changes cash at good rates with no commission and sells trekking gear. State Bank of India (Laden La Rd; h10am-2pm & 3-4pm Mon-Fri) Changes cash US dollars, euros and pounds sterling, plus US-dollar Amex

travellers cheques, with a commission of ₹100 per transaction. It has an adjacent ATM, another in Chowrasta; both accept Visa cards. Photography Das Studios (Nehru Rd; h9.30am-6.30pm MonFri, to 2.30pm Sat, daily in high season) Film and printing, passport pics (six for ₹50) and burns digital photos to DVD (₹200). The reprinted 19thcentury photographs make for a great souvenir (₹175); ask to look at the catalogue. Post Main post office (Laden La Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Travel Agencies Most travel agencies in town can arrange local tours, including the DGHC. Other reliable agencies and their specialities include the following: Adventures Unlimited (% 9933070013; Dr Zakir Hussain Rd; www.adventuresunlimited. in) Offers Goecha La treks, kayaking, paragliding, motorbike trips and mountain bike rental (₹450 per day); ask about the cycle itinerary to Kurseong and back via Senchul Reservoir. They also offer internet access, a laundromat, cheap international calls and cash advances on a credit card. Contact Gautam. Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks (%2252874; samsara1@sancharnet.in; 7 Laden La Rd) Helpful and knowledgeable agency offering rafting and trekking trips, and domestic Nepali bus and air tickets to Kathmandu. Somewhere Over the Rainbow Treks & Tours (% 9832025739; kanadhi@yahoo.com; HD Lama Rd; h8am-6pm, later in high season) Organises off-the-beaten track walks around Darjeeling, as well as rafting, rock climbing, cycling and trekking in Sikkim (including interesting routes from Uttarey). Treks start from US$40 per day. Sikkim Travel Permit Sikkim Tourist Office (% 9832438118; Nehru Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) For an on-thespot Sikkim permit bring a photocopy of your passport and Indian visa, plus one photo. It’s opposite Glenary’s.

Dangers & Annoyances

Strikes in support of the GJM’s call for a separate Indian state of Gurkhaland have become

497

8 Getting There & Away

Air The nearest airport is 90km away at Bagdogra, about 12km from Siliguri. See p 483 for details about flights to/from Bagdogra. Indian Airlines (%2254230; Chowrasta; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Pineridge Travels (%2253912; pineridge@ mail.com; Nehru Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) For domestic and international flight tickets. Bus Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks can book ‘luxury’ air-con buses from Siliguri to Kolkata (₹750-1000, 12 hours) and ordinary night buses to Guwahati (₹360) and Patna (₹350). These tickets don’t include transfers to Siliguri. Jeep & Taxi Numerous share jeeps leave the crowded Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep stand for Siliguri (₹90-110, three hours) and Kurseong (₹50, 1½ hours). Jeeps for Mirik (₹60, 2½ hours) leave from the northern end about every 1½ hours. A ticket oﬃce inside the ground floor of the Old Super Market Complex sells advance tickets for the frequent jeeps to Kalimpong (₹80-90, 2½ hours), while two roadside stands sell advance tickets for Gangtok (₹130, four hours), departing between 7am and 3pm. At the northern end of the station, three to four jeeps a day leave before noon for Jorethang (₹90, two hours) in Sikkim. You must already have a permit to enter Sikkim (see p 497 ) via this route. To New Jalpaiguri or Bagdogra, get a connection in Siliguri, or charter a jeep or taxi from Darjeeling. Darjeeling Transport Corporation (Laden La Rd) oﬀers charter jeeps to Gangtok (₹1400), Kalimpong (₹1200) and Siliguri/Bagdogra Airport (₹1200). Train The nearest major train station is at New Jalpaiguri (NJP), near Siliguri. Tickets can be bought for major services out of NJP at the Darjeeling train station (h8am-2pm). Fares are to Ghum (2nd/1st class ₹21/96, 50 minutes), Kurseong (₹27/144, three hours), Siliguri Junction (₹38/217, 6½ hours) and NJP (2nd/1st class ₹42/247, seven hours). For sightseeing services see p 484.

S 8 WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING 8 RJEELING DA

Tourist Information Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council Tourist Reception Centre (DGHC; %2255351; Silver Fir Bldg, Jawahar Rd West; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, except 10am-1pm every 2nd Sat, 10am-1pm Sun high season) The staff are friendly, well organised and the best source of information in Darjeeling.

less regular in recent years but could easily return if discontent resurges. While there has been little violence and tourists have not been targeted, everything simply shuts down, including all banks, restaurants and transport.

498

DARJEELING HIMALAYAN RAILWAY NO

DARJEELING

GHUM

KURSEONG

2D*

9.15am

9.45am

11.55am

4pm

4.50pm

10.45am

1.10pm

10D (steam) 10.15am

SILIGURI JCT NJP

*At the time of research the 2D service was suspended due to landslides, but should have resumed by time of publication.

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

To/From Nepal Foreigners can only cross the border into Nepal at Kakarbhitta/Panitanki (not at Pasupati). Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks can book night buses from Kakarbhitta to Kathmandu (₹750; departure 4pm), leaving you to hire a jeep to Kakarbhitta (₹1600), or catch a shared jeep to Siliguri and then Karkabhittha. Samsara can also book Nepali domestic flights from Bhadrapur to Kathmandu (US$147), which will save you the overnight bus trip. Any tickets you see advertised from Darjeeling to Kathmandu are not direct buses and involve transfers in Siliguri and at the border – leaving plenty of room for problems – it’s just as easy to do it yourself. See the boxed text, p 484 for Siliguri-Panitanki transport details.

8 Getting Around

There are several taxi stands around town, but rates are absurdly high for short hops. Darjeeling’s streets can be steep and hard to navigate. You can hire a porter to carry your bags up to Chowrasta from Chowk Bazaar for around ₹60. Share jeeps to anywhere north of the town centre (eg to North Point) leave from the northern end of the Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station. To Ghum, get a share jeep (₹15) from along Hill Cart Rd.

Trekking Around Darjeeling A number of rewarding and picturesque treks are accessible from Darjeeling. October and November’s clear skies and warm daytime temperatures make it an ideal time to trek, as do the long days and incredible rhododendron blooms of May and early June. The Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council (DGHC; p497) produces a useful Himalayan Treks leaflet (₹25), which includes a map and descriptions of major trekking routes. Most popular is the Singalila Ridge Trek from Mane Bhanjhang to Phalut, which passes through the scenic Singalila National

Park (Indian/foreigner ₹100/200, camera/video ₹100/400) and oﬀers great views of the Hima-

layan chain stretching from Nepal to Sikkim and Bhutan. Sandakhphu in particular offers a stunning panorama that includes Lhotse, Everest and Khangchengdzonga peaks. Guides (₹700 per day) are mandatory within the park and can be arranged at the office of the Highlander Trekking Guides Association (%9734056944) at Mane Bhanjhang, along with porters (₹ 350) if required. Mane Bhanjhang is 26km from Darjeeling and is served by frequent shared jeeps (₹50, 1½ hours) as well as a 7am bus from Darjeeling’s Chowk Bazaar bus/jeep station. From Rimbik, there are shared jeeps back to Darjeeling (₹110, five hours) at 7am and noon and a bus at 6.30am (₹72). Book seats in advance. If you have to overnight in Rimbik the best lodges are Hotel Sherpa (%9434212810; dm ₹100, d ₹300-800), with pleasant lawns and Alpine-style huts, and Green Hill (dm ₹80-100, r ₹350-600), with quieter wooden rooms out back. For a relaxing end to a trek, consider a stay at Karmi Farm (p480), an hour or two drive from Rimbik near Bijanbari. The usual trekking itinerary is described in the boxed text, p498. A shorter four-day option is possible by descending from Sandakhphu to Sri Khola on day three. A very rough jeep road now follows the trek from Mane Bhanjhang to Phalut but traffic is very light and the walking trail partly avoids the road. Private lodges, some with attached bathrooms, are available along the route for around ₹100 for a dorm bed or ₹300-600 per room. All offer food, normally a filling combo of rice, dhal and vegetables (₹60-80). Rooms have clean bedding and blankets so sleeping bags are not strictly necessary, though they are nice to have. At a minimum bring a sheet, a sleeping bag/liner and warm clothes for dawn peak viewing. Bottled and boiling water is available along the route. Trekkers’ huts can be booked at the DGHC (p497), but even they will tell you that you are better off at one of the private lodges. The main lodges are listed below in ascending order of price and quality:

Tumling Trekkers’ Hut, Mountain Lodge,

Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council Tourist Reception Centre (p497) Charges about

₹2000 per day (all-inclusive) for Singalila Ridge, or can just organise guides/porters.

SINGALILA RIDGE TREK DAY ROUTE

DISTANCE (KM)

Mane Bhanjhang (2130m) to Tonglu (3070m)/Tumling (2980m) via Meghma Gompa

Tonglu to Sandakphu (3636m) via Kalipokhri & Garibas

Sandakphu to Phalut (3600m) via Sabarkum

Phalut to Rammam (2530m) via Gorkhey

Rammam to Rimbik (2290m) via Sri Khola

Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks (p497)

Experienced agency offering reasonably priced rafting and trekking trips.

499

Trek Mate (%2256611, 9832083241; trek matedarj@gmail.com; Nehru Rd) All-inclusive

guided treks run from US$45 per person per day, or US$60 for Goecha La in Sikkim, depending on group size. Himalayan Travels (%2252254; kkgurung@ cal.vsnl.net.in; 18 Gandhi Rd; h8.30am-7pm)

Experienced company arranging treks and mountaineering expeditions in Darjeeling and Sikkim. Can supply tents and other equipment.

Kalimpong % 03552 / POP 43,000 / ELEV 1250M

This bustling bazaar town sprawls along a ridge overlooking the roaring Teesta River and within sight of Khangchendzonga. It’s not a must-see but it does boast Himalayan views, some fine hikes, temples and churches, and a fascinating nursery industry. Kalimpong’s early development as a trading centre focused on the wool trade with Tibet, across the Jelep La Pass. Like Darjeeling, Kalimpong once belonged to the chogyals of Sikkim, but it fell into the hands of the Bhutanese in the 18th century and later passed to the British, before becoming part of India at Independence. Scottish missionaries, particularly the Jesuits, made great eﬀorts to win over the local Buddhists in the late 19th century and Dr Graham’s famous orphanage and school is still running today. The Gorkhaland movement is active in Kalimpong. The Gurkha leader CK Pradhan was assassinated here in October 2002, and is commemorated by a small shrine on the spot where he was gunned down. Kalimpong is centred on its chaotic Motor Stand. Nearby are restaurants, cheap hotels and shops; most sights and quality accommodation are a kilometre or two from town, accessed via DB Giri and Rinkingpong Rds.

1 Sights

Durpin Gompa

MONASTERY

Kalimpong’s largest monastery, formally known as Zangtok Pelri Podrang (sometimes spelled Zong Dog Palri Fo-Brang), sits atop spectacular Durpin Hill (1372m) and was consecrated after its opening by the Dalai Lama in 1976. There are impressive wall and ceiling paintings in the main prayer room downstairs

S SIGHTS K WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING S IAGLHI M T SP O N G

Siddharta Lodge, Shikhar Lodge Tonglu Trekkers’ Hut Kalipokhari Chewang Lodge and five others Sandakhphu Trekkers’ Hut, Namobuddha, Sunrise, Sherpa Chalet Lodge Phalut Trekkers’ Hut Gurdum Himalayan Sherpa Lodge Sri Khola Trekkers’ Hut, Goparma Lodge Gorkhey Trekkers’ Hut, Shanti Lodge, Eden Lodge Ramman Trekkers’ Hut, Namobuddha Lodge Molley Trekkers’ Hut All-inclusive guided treks on this route are oﬀered by Darjeeling travel agencies for ₹1600 to ₹1800 per day, though it’s easy enough to arrange a DIY trek for much less. Lodges can get booked out in the busy month of October, so consider a November trek. Remember to bring your passport, as you’ll have to register at half a dozen army checkpoints. The ridge forms the India– Nepal border and the trail actually enters Nepal in several places. Reliable trekking agencies include the following:

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(photography is permitted), and interesting 3-D mandalas (visual meditational aids) on the 2nd floor. The monastery is located about 5km south of the town centre, and is best reached by taxi (₹80 return). A viewpoint

about 300m below the gompa looks out south over the Relli and Teesta Rivers. Tharpa Choling Gompa

MONASTERY

Built in 1922, this Gelugpa-school Tibetan monastery, oﬀ KD Pradhan Rd, contains stat-

501

Kalimpong æ Sights 1 CK Pradhan Shrine.................................B1 2 Himalayan Eagle .....................................A1 3 Lepcha Heritage Museum..................... D4 Nurseryman's Haven...................... (see 8) 4 Pineview Nursery................................... A5 ÿ Sleeping 5 Cloud 9 ................................................... B6 6 Elgin Silver Oaks .................................... C3 7 Himalayan Hotel .................................... B4 8 Holumba Haven ..................................... A4 9 Kalimpong Park Hotel ........................... B6 10 Sherpa Lodge......................................... A2 11 Sood's Garden Retreat.......................... A4

ues of the past, present and future Buddhas. A garuda protects each Buddha from above, his mouth devouring hatred and anger (in the form of a snake). It’s a 30-minute walk (uphill) from town, past the top of Tripai Rd. Thongsa Gompa

MONASTERY

Near the top of RC Mintri Rd, past JP Lodge, is this Nyingmapa-school monastery, also known as the Bhutanese Monastery. The gompa was founded in 1692, but the present building, surrounded by 219 small prayer wheels, was built in the 19th century after the Gurkhas rampaged across Sikkim. Dr Graham’s Home

HISTORIC BUILDING

This working orphanage and school was built in 1900 by Dr JA Graham, a Scottish missionary, to educate the children of tea estate workers, and now has more than 1300 students. There’s a small museum (admission free h9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) that commemorates the founder and his wife, Katherine. The 1925 chapel above the school seems lifted straight out of a Scotland parish, with its grey slate, spire and fine stained-glass windows. The gate is 4km up the steep KD Pradhan Rd. Many people charter a taxi to get here (₹100) and then walk back to town via Tharpa Choling Gompa.

þ Shopping 17 Haat Bazaar ............................................ D1 18 Kashi Nath & Sons ................................. A1 19 Lark's Provisions .................................... B1 Information 20 Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council Tourist Reception Centre ................... A1 Helpdesk ........................................(see 10) Studio Foto Max ............................(see 16) Transport 21 Himalayan Travellers.............................A2 22 Kalimpong Mainline Taxi Driver's Welfare Association ..........................................A2 23 Kalimpong Motor Transport .................B2 24 Kalimpong Railway Out Agency............ B1 25 Sikkim Nationalised Transport .............A2

Deolo Hill VIEWPOINT (admission ₹50; 9km from Kalimpong) On a clear

day the sunrise views of Khangchendzonga from this hilltop park are superb. After savouring the views you can have breakfast at the attached Tourist Lodge (breakfast ₹70140; hfrom 8am) and then walk back to Kalimpong via Dr Graham’s. A taxi here costs around ₹250. If it’s cloudy, stay in bed.

Himalayan Handmade HANDICRAFTS Paper Industry (KD Pradhan Rd; %255418; www.rupeshpradhan. com; h9am-3.30pm Mon-Sat) Visitors are wel-

come to drop into this small workshop to see the traditional papermaking process, from pulping of the local argayli bush to pressing and drying. The resulting insect-resistant paper is used by monasteries to block print scriptures. Morning is the best time to visit.

Nurseries

NURSERIES

Kalimpong is a major flower exporter and produces about 80% of India’s gladioli as well as many orchid varieties. Visit Nurseryman’s Haven (%256936; 9th Mile) at Holumba Haven (see p502) to have a look at orchids; Santi Kunj (BL Dixit Rd; h8.30am-noon & 1.304pm Sun-Fri) to see anthuriums and the bird

of paradise flower (bulbs are also sold here); and Pineview Nursery (%255843; www.pine

viewcactus.com; Atisha Rd; admission ₹10; 8am-

S SIGHTS K WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING S IAGLHI M T SP O N G

ú Eating 12 3C's......................................................... A2 13 China Garden Restaurant ..................... B2 14 Fresh Bite Restaurant ............................A1 15 Gompu's Bar & Restaurant................... A2

16 King Thai .................................................A3

502

5pm, Sun closed winter) to gaze at its eminently photographable cactus collection. Lepcha Heritage Museum MUSEUM (%9800033650; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) There

are plans to move this collection of Lepcha treasures to a more formal location, but until then the experience is best likened to rummaging through the attic of your grandfather’s house, if he were a Lepcha tribal elder. A guide will explain Lepcha creation myths, while pointing out the religious texts, sacred porcupine quill hat and several old pangolin skins. It’s a 10-minute walk below the sports ground, just past the Kamudini Homes School. Calling ahead is advised. St Teresa’s Church

CHURCH

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

A fascinating missionary church built in 1929 by Swiss Jesuits, St Teresa was constructed to incorporate designs from a Bhutanese gompa. The carved apostles look like Buddhist monks, and the carvings on the doors resemble the tashi tagye, eight auspicious symbols of Himalayan Buddhism. The church is found oﬀ 9th Mile, about 2km from town, but is often locked outside of the early morning services.

Activities

The sleepy DGHC Tourist Reception Centre (p503) and private Helpdesk (p503) can arrange local transport and treks.

Gurudongma Tours & Travels (%255204; www.gurudongma.com; Hilltop, Rinkingpong Rd)

organises interesting tours, including trekking, rafting, mountain biking, birdwatching and fishing throughout the region, in a bus especially from its lodge on the Samthar Plateau (see p504). Kalimpong-based Swede Roger Lenngren oﬀers paragliding flights through Himalay-

an Eagle (%9635156911; www.paraglidingkalim pong.com; Dambar Chowk). Tandem flights cost

₹2150/3500 for a 15-/30-minute flight, which includes transport. Weather conditions have to be perfect. Lenngrenn also runs motorbike and 4WD trips through www.himalayanbiketours.se.

Kalimpong Walks (%9932828753; www. kalimpongwalks.blogspot.com, www.thesilkroute experience.com; walks ₹300-900) oﬀers a series

of guided walks around Kalimpong, ranging from hour-long dawn strolls to full-day hikes.

4 Sleeping The hotels closest to the Motor Stand are mainly grotty and overpriced; it’s well worth walking a few extra steps for a significant increase in quality. High-season rates (October to early December and mid-March to early June) are given here.

oHolumba Haven

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$

(%256936; www.holumba.com; 9th Mile; r ₹7001800, cottage from ₹4500) Described by its wel-

coming owners as ‘more of a homestay than a hotel’, this family-run guesthouse is situated in a splendid orchid nursery just 1km below town. The spotless, comfy rooms are arranged in homey cottages spread around the lush garden, and spring water is piped directly into the rooms. Good home-style meals (₹300, preorder) are available in the sociable dining room. Owner Norden is a fantastic source of local information.

oHimalayan Hotel

HERITAGE HOTEL $$

(%255248; www.himalayanhotel.com; Upper Cart Rd; s/d ₹1800/2800;i) This hotel was opened

by the revered David MacDonald, an interpreter from Francis Younghusband’s mission to Lhasa in 1904 and one of those who helped the 13th Dalai Lama escape Tibet in 1910. The original rooms have loads of Rajera appeal beneath a sloping Himalayan-oak ceiling, while the new suites mesh old-world charm with modern comfort and private balconies. It’s a triumph of sympathetic renovation; comfortable but full of lovely original fittings. You’re in fine company here; the former guest list reads like a ‘Who’s Who’ of the great 19th-century Himalayan travellers, from Alexandra David-Neel and Heinrich Harrer to Charles Bell. Head to the lawn to savour the Himalayan views over an al fresco breakfast or afternoon beer.

Kalimpong Park Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%255304; www.kalimponghotel.com; s/d/ste ₹1800/2300/3000) This former maharaja’s

summer residence has oodles of Raj-era charm. Wicker chairs and flowerpots line the verandah and there’s a charming lounge bar, along with a restaurant oﬀering such British boarding-school dishes as jelly custard. Rooms in the new wing lack some of the period charm of the old house but are fresh and still very appealing. Request a frontfacing room, preferably on the upper floors.

Deki Lodge GUESTHOUSE $ (%255095; Tripai Rd; s ₹250-450, d ₹350-650, deluxe d ₹850-1050) This pleasant lodge is close

to the Thongsa and Tharpa Choling Gompas and still handy to town. It’s a friendly, family -run place set in a garden with a cafe (on request) and rooftop viewing area. Rooms are generally appealing, particularly the upper-floor rooms, and it’s light years better than anything near the Motor Stand.

Sherpa Lodge HOTEL $ (%8972029913; s ₹200, d ₹300-400) This decent

budget place is slap bang in the centre of town, oﬀering bright, clean rooms and buckets of hot water for the attached bathrooms. The rooftop terrace has great potential. Ask for Raju.

Renovations have reinvented Sood’s as a modern, stylish boutique hotel. The suites in particular have great floor to ceiling mountain views and there’s a good restaurant with a pleasant sitting area for tea or a beer. The eager-to-help owners can organise all kinds of tours and trips. Elgin Silver Oaks HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%255296; www.elginhotels.com; Rinkingpong Rd; s/d incl full board ₹5600/5900) This centrally

located Raj-era homestead has been renovated into a modern and very comfortable Elgin hotel. The rooms are plushly furnished and oﬀer grand views down the valley (ask for a garden-view room). The tariﬀ includes all meals in the excellent restaurant and the sociable bar packs bags of atmosphere.

Cloud 9 HOTEL $$ (%259554; cloud9kpg@yahoo.com; Rinkingpong Rd; d ₹1100-1500) There’s no chance of a tour-

group invasion in this friendly place, since there are just three wood-panelled rooms, plus a cosy TV lounge and a good restaurant, serving interesting Bhutanese and Sikkimese dishes (try the kewa tachi – potato and cheese). Guitars in the lounge attest to the owner’s love of late-night Beatles covers.

oKing Thai

Gompu’s Bar & Restaurant TIBETAN $ (%257456; oﬀ DB Giri Rd; mains ₹40-120, beer ₹120) Gompu’s is famous for its massive

momos (pork, chicken and veg), which have been drawing locals and travellers alike for ages. It’s a good place for a cold beer. It’s found within the hotel of the same name. China Garden Restaurant CHINESE $ (%257456; Lal Gulli, mains ₹70-100) In the China

Garden Hotel near the Motor Stand, this is Kalimpong’s best Chinese restaurant. The fairly authentic soups, noodles and spicy ginger chicken are tasty, if you can pry the staﬀ ’s attention away from the hypnotising TV. Fresh Bite Restaurant MULTICUISINE $ (DB Giri Rd; mains ₹50-140) Upstairs, across the

road from the DGHC, this place has a wide range of almost uniformly good food including some hard-to-find dishes that you might have been craving, like miso soup and bacon sandwiches and a good Gorkhali set meal, featuring Nepali-style gundruk (fermented greens).

3C’s BAKERY $ (DB Giri Rd; cakes & snacks ₹10-30; h8.30am7.15pm) If you need a quick break, this popu-

lar bakery and fast food restaurant oﬀers a variety of pastries and cakes, both sweet and savoury, with seating in the back.

Shopping

Lark’s Provisions FOOD & DRINK $ (DB Giri Rd) The best place to pick up Ka-

limpong cheese (₹240 per kg), produced in Kalimpong since the Jesuits established a dairy here in the 19th century, and locally made Kalimpong lollipops (₹25). Also sells groceries and yummy homemade pickles. Haat Bazaar MARKET (btwn Relli & RC Mintri Rds) On Wednesday

and Saturday this normally quiet bazaar roars to life.

5 Eating CHINESE $$

(3rd fl ‘supermarket’, DB Giri Rd; mains ₹50-110; h11am-9.30pm) A multicultural hang-out

with a Thai name, Chinese food, Bob Marley posters and British soccer banners for

503

Kashi Nath & Sons BOOKS (DB Giri Rd; h10am-6.30pm) This, and the

shop next door, has a decent range of books on Buddhism, Nepal and Tibet, plus some novels.

S E AT I N G K WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING E AT A LI N MGP O N G

Sood’s Garden Retreat BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%9733123113; www.soodsgardenretreat.com; 81/2nd Mile; ste ₹2550-3050 with breakfast; W)

decoration, the regular crowd here mixes expats, monks, businessmen and Tibetan cool kids drawn to the noisy live music in the evenings. The excellent food is mainly Chinese with some Thai and Indian flavours and there’s a bar with comfy chairs and even a disco ball.

504

DIY EXPLORING AROUND KALIMPONG

WEST BENGAL & DARJEELING W E S T B E N G A L H I L L S

There’s plenty of scope for some exploring in the hills and villages around Kalimpong. The picturesque drive east from Kalimpong passes through mist and moss-laden, oldgrowth forests and makes for nice hiking. For more information on the region see the Helpdesk in Kalimpong (p503) or Norden at Holumba Haven (p502). About 32km east of Kalimpong, Lava (2353m) is a small village popular with Bengali tourists, with a Kagyupa gompa and a bustling Tuesday market. En route, a short detour 6km from Algarh, you can make the short hike to the faint 17th-century ruins of Damsang Dzong, a former fortress of the chogyals of Sikkim. Adjoining Lava town is Neora Valley National Park (admission ₹150), featuring lush forests home to red panda and clouded leopard. There are some fine day hikes or you can make the four-day camping trek to Rochela (3155m), at the high junction of West Bengal, Sikkim and Bhutan. There’s plenty of accommodation in Lava. The cottages of the Lava Forest Lodge (www.wbfdc.com; d ₹600-1200) just above town is the nicest option but can be hard to book; try through WBTDC in Siliguri or Holumba Haven in Kalimpong. The governmentrun Tourist Cottage (%9932270767; d ₹750) is another decent choice. About 26km further east of Lava is Kaffer (1555m), also known as Lolaygaon, from where there are views of the summit of Khangchendzonga. Daffey Munal Tourist Lodge (%03552-277218; dm ₹150, d/tr ₹750/1000) is a rambling old DGHC place with huge, clean rooms, hot water and fireplaces. To get further afield, Gurudongma Tours & Travels (%255204; www.gurudongma .com, www.awakeandshine.org; Hilltop, Rinkingpong Rd, Kalimpong; s/d full board from ₹3800/4500) runs the cosy Farm House at Samthar. There are fine views of the Bhutanese Himalaya and some fascinating conversations when the owner, ‘the General’, is in residence. They will arrange transport from Kalimpong. Other adventure companies in the region include Silk Route Experience (www .thesilkrouteexperience.com) based around its Silk Route Retreat in Pedong, 22km from Kalimpong. Several jeeps daily link Kalimpong with both Lava and Kaﬀer.

8 Information

Axis Bank ATM (81/2nd Mile) Next to Sood’s Garden Retreat. Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council Tourist Reception Centre (DGHC; %257992; DB Giri Rd; h10am-5pm) Staff can organise local tours and rafting in Teesta Bazaar (see p 492). Helpdesk (%9434886511; helpdesk_kpg@hot mail.com; h9am-5pm) This private information centre on the ground floor of the Sherpa Lodge offers guides, walks and information on trips around Kalimpong. ICICI Bank ATM (DB Giri Rd) Net Hut (per hr ₹30; h9.30am-7.30pm) Internet access near the Motor Stand. Post office (Rinkingpong Rd; h9am-5pm MonFri, to 4pm Sat) Just behind the police station. Sikkim permit There is nowhere in Kalimpong to obtain permits for Sikkim, but free 30-day permits are available at the border at Rangpo, en route to Gangtok. You need to present three passport photos. State Bank of India ATM (DB Giri Rd)

Studio Foto Max (h8am-7pm) Small shop in an arcade will burn digital pictures to a CD/DVD for ₹50/75.

8 Getting There & Away

All the bus and jeep options and their oﬃces mentioned here are found next to each other at the chaotic Motor Stand. Bus & Jeep Bengal government buses run twice daily to Siliguri (₹50, 2½ hours), and there’s also a single Sikkim Nationalised Transport (SNT) bus to Gangtok (₹80, 3 hours) at 1pm. Himalayan Travellers (% 9434166498) Helpful transport company runs share jeeps to Gangtok (₹100, three hours, four daily), Lava (₹50, 1½ hours, five per day) and Kaffer (₹60, 2½ hrs, 8am). Kalimpong Mainline Taxi Driver’s Welfare Association (KMTDWA) Regular share jeeps to Siliguri (₹80, 2½ hours) and Gangtok (₹100, 2½ hours) and one daily to Kaffer (₹70, departs 7.15am) and Jorethang (₹60, two hours, departs 7.15am).

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd KS & AH Taxi Driver’s Welfare Association Four jeeps daily to Ravangla (₹110, 3½ hours) and Namchi (₹80) in Sikkim, though you need to have arranged a permit in advance for this route. Kalimpong Motor Transport Regular share jeeps to Darjeeling (₹80-90, 2½ hours). Jeeps can also be chartered for Darjeeling (₹1400), Siliguri (₹1400) and Gangtok (₹1500). Train Kalimpong Railway Out Agency (Mani Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) sells train tickets from New Jalpaiguri station.

To/From Bhutan & Nepal A West Bengal government bus travels to the Bhutan border, Jaigon (₹100, 5½ hours) at 8.15am, and there are also early morning jeeps (₹130, five hours). There is one early morning bus (₹90, 5.45am) and jeep (₹110, 6.30am) to the Nepal border at Kakarbhitta (₹110, three hours). Border information can be found in the boxed text, p 484.

505

8 Getting Around

Taxis can be chartered for local trips from along DB Giri Rd. A half-day rental to see most of the sights should cost ₹700.

S 8 WEST BENGAL HILL & DARJEELING 8 ALIMPONG K

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Bihar & Jharkhand Bihar . . . . . . . . . . . . . .509 Patna . . . . . . . . . . . . . 509 Around Patna . . . . . . . 513 Raxaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514 Gaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514 Bodhgaya . . . . . . . . . .516 Rajgir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521 Around Rajgir . . . . . . 522 Jharkhand . . . . . . . . . . 523 Ranchi . . . . . . . . . . . . 523 Betla (Palamau) National Park . . . . . . 525

Why Go? Though long harnessed as pilgrim country for the devout, Bihar and Jharkhand remain pioneer travel territory for the average tourist and are perhaps more representative of traditional India than any other northern states as a result. Outside the big cities most signage is in Hindi and men are more likely to be wearing the kurta and dhoti rather than Western-style shirt and trousers. But the region’s spirituality is the big draw. As the birthplace of Buddhism, Bihar holds great significance in India’s cultural and religious heritage. Siddhartha Gautama – Buddha – spent much of his life here and attained enlightenment underneath a bodhi tree in Bodhgaya, making it the most important pilgrimage site in the world for Buddhists. Jharkhand’s highest point, Parasnath Hill, is notable as the most significant Jain pilgrimage site in north-central India. Together, the states cater to a procession of pilgrims throughout the year.

Best Places to Eat » Bellpepper Restaurant (p512) » Chanakya BNR Hotel (p523) » Tandoor Hut (p512)

» Mohammed Restaurant (p520) » Takshila (p512)

Best Places to Stay » Indo Hokke Hotel (p522)

» Chanakya BNR Hotel (p523) » Taj Darbar (p518)

» Hotel Windsor (p511)

When to Go Patna °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

16/400 0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Feb & Mar Beat the heat: temperatures hover between a pleasant 19°C and 25°C.

Oct & Nov With monsoons in retreat, the region is pleasant and dry as winter sets in.

Nov & Dec Bihar’s Sonepur Mela extravaganza puts Pushkar’s Camel Fair to shame.

The Flavour Frontier You’re in hearty frontier country. Leading the charge north towards the Himalayas is a vibrant gastronomic medley influenced by Mughals, Afghans, Bengal Nawabs, Persians, Europeans and Buddhist vegetarianism. Look out for chokha, spicy mashed potatoes prepared with panch foron, a five-seed mix of mustard, anise, fenugreek, carom and onion; and roasted chickpea flour fried in hot sand, known as sattu, which boasts a high-carb, energetic kick. Litti, balls of spiced sattu covered in dough and baked on coals, is ubiquitous on the streets. Bihari kebabs, usually made with mutton splashed with red chillies, cumin, coriander, raw papaya, cinnamon, garlic and ginger, are a delight if you can find them, and are sometimes wrapped inside paratha and served as rolls. Sweet tooths in Bihar and Jharkhand are satiated with dry sweets, like the strange but satisfying tilkut, pounded sesame seed cookies made with jaggery batter or melted sugar.

DON’T MISS Buddhist pilgrims from all over the world flock to Bihar’s Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya and rightfully so: it is here that Prince Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment beneath a bodhi tree and became Buddha. The temple complex was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2002. Other treats in the region include the Jain Holy Ground at Parasnath Hill, the elephantrich Betla National Park and the ancient ruins in and around Rajgir.

Top Bihar & Jharkhand Festivals » Pataliputra Mahotsava (Mar, Patna, p511) Patna celebrates its historic past with parades, sports, dancing and music.

» Rajgir Mahotsava (Oct, Rajgir, p521) A classical performing arts festival with folk dances, devotional songs and instrumental music.

» Chhath Festival (Oct/Nov, Bihar and Jharkhand) People line the banks of rivers and water bodies to honour Surya, the Sun God. At sunset on the sixth day after Diwali, married women, having fasted for 36 hours, immerse themselves in the water and offer fruits and flowers to the deity. » Sonepur Mela (Nov/Dec, Sonepur, p514) With 700,000 attendees and countless thousands of animals taking part, this three-week festival is four times the size of Pushkar’s Camel Fair.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Most travellers arrive at Patna’s Jaiprakash Narayan International Airport, Ranchi’s Birsa Munda Airport or by train into Patna (PNBE) or Ranchi junctions (RNC).

Fast Facts » Population: 103.8 million (Bihar), 33 million (Jharkhand) » Area: 99,200 sq km (Bihar), 74,677 sq km (Jharkhand)

» Capital: Patna (Bihar), Ranchi (Jharkhand) » Language: Hindi

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹800, $$ ₹800 to ₹1500, $$$ above ₹1500

Top Tip Steer clear of this region during monsoon season (June to September) – Bihar is India’s most flood-prone state.

Resources » Tourism Bihar (www.tour ismbihar.org) is the official department of tourism site of Bihar.

» Jharkhand Tourism (www.jharkhandtourism.in) is the official department of tourism site of Jharkhand.

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Bihar & Jharkhand Highlights 1 Witness the spiritual dawn spectacle at the Mahabodhi Temple (p516) in Bodhgaya 2 Take a walking tour

through the Buddhist world at Bodhgayaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s numerous temples and monasteries (p517)

3 Join the Jain pilgrimage to the 1366m-high Parasnath Hill (p524)

4 Visit the ancient university at Nalanda (p522) and imagine what life was like for its 10,000 pupils from all over Asia

5 Journey to the lost capital of Magadha through the ruins, temples and monuments around Rajgir (p521) 6 Trade noise pollution for

silent lucidity at the stunning

Vishwashanti Stupa (p521) in Rajgir

7 Prowl the forested Betla (Palamau) National Park (p525) on the back of an elephant in search of elusive tigers

8 Indulge in the memorable

frontier cuisine of Patnaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many excellent restaurants (p512)

History

8 Information

State tourism oﬃces exist in every major town but do little besides handing out leaflets – if that.

BIHAR Patna % 0612 / POP 1,285,470

Bihar’s busy capital sprawls out over the south bank of the polluted Ganges, just east of the river’s confluence with three major tributaries. Unlike Varanasi, there’s nothing for the traveller along the river itself and Patna has only a handful of worthwhile sights. Otherwise it’s a chaotic eyesore that would be an odd place to voluntarily spend any considerable length of time save one crucial caveat: Patna is home to Bihar and Jharkhand’s best eats. Still, most tourists get to know it only as a major transport hub and

a springboard for visiting the Buddhist sites of Vaishali and Kesariya. Patna was once a powerful city. Early in the 5th century BC, Ajatasatru shifted the capital of his Magadha kingdom from Rajgir to Pataliputra (Patna), fulfilling Buddha’s prophecy that a great city would arise here. Emperors Chandragupta Maurya and Ashoka also called Pataliputra home and it remained one of India’s most important cities for almost 1000 years. The old and newer parts of Patna stretch along the southern bank of the Ganges for about 15km. The main train station, airport and hotels are in the western half, known as Bankipur, while most of the historic sites are in the teeming older Chowk area to the east. The 5.7km-long Mahatma Gandhi Setu, the longest single river bridge in the world, connects Patna with Hajipur.

509

1 Sights & Activities oPatna Museum

MUSEUM

(Buddha Marg; Indian/foreigner ₹10/250; h10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Behind its impres-

sive but decaying exterior, this museum houses a splendid collection of Mauryan and Gupta stone sculptures. There’s the usual collection of period weapons, including Humayun’s dagger, and a gallery of wonderful Rajasthani

STAYING SAFE IN BIHAR & JHARKHAND Bihar and Jharkhand have a deserved reputation for lawlessness throughout India. Conditions have improved under the Nitish Kumar government, but dacoit (bandit) activity, such as holding up cars, buses and trains, is still a possibility and Maoist and Naxalite bombings are not uncommon. Although foreign and domestic tourists are not specific targets, it’s a good idea to split up your valuables on long journeys and avoid night travel where possible, especially by road. Women should take extra precaution throughout the state. In Patna, security has improved, but do take care at night, especially if alone. For more info, check the English-language newspapers Bihar Times (www.bihartimes. com), Patna Daily (www.patnadaily. com) and Ranchi Express (ranchiex press.com) before arrival.

H T S & AC T I VPAT BIHAR S &I G JHARKHAND SI ITGI EHNSTAS & AC T I V I T I E S

Prince Siddhartha Gautama arrived in Bihar during the 6th century BC and spent many years here before leaving enlightened as Buddha. The life of Mahavira, a contemporary of Buddha and the founder of Jainism, was born in Bihar and attained Nirvana there before his death near Nalanda at the age of 72. In the 4th century BC, after Chandragupta Maurya conquered the Magadha kingdom and its capital Pataliputra (now Patna), he expanded into the Indus Valley and created the first great Indian empire. His grandson and successor, Ashoka, ruled the Mauryan empire from Pataliputra, which was one of the largest cities in the world at that time. Emperor Ashoka embraced Buddhism (see p1087), erecting stupas, monuments and his famous Ashokan pillars throughout northern India, notably at Sarnath (Uttar Pradesh) and Sanchi (Madhya Pradesh). In Bihar, Ashoka built the original shrine on the site of today’s Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya (p516) and the lion-topped pillar at Vaishali (p514). Bihar continued to be coveted by a succession of major empires until the Magadha dynasty rose to glory again during the reign of the Guptas (7th and 8th centuries AD). With the decline of the Mughal empire, Bihar came under the control of Bengal until 1912, when a separate state was formed. Part of this state later became Orissa and, more recently in 2000, Jharkhand.

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miniatures. In another gallery is a motley collection of stuﬀed animals, including tigers, a large gharial (a type of crocodile), a bizarre three-eared and eight-legged goat kid, and a wombat. Upstairs in a locked gallery (for an extra ₹500) you can glimpse a tiny casket that’s believed to contain some of Buddha’s ashes that were retrieved from Vaishali (p514). PARK

This new 9-hectare park on Fraser Rd, inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 2010, is notable for its massive sandblasted charcoal stupa, which houses a unique bulletproof chamber inside; and sapling plantings from both the Bodhi Tree in Bodhgaya and Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka. There is also a colour-coordinated museum and meditation centre, which makes for a striking architectural panorama. Judging by appearances, it looks to be far more interesting and welcoming than Gandhi Maidan.

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MUSEUM Library (Ashok Raj Path; h9.30am-5pm Sat-Thu) This fas-

cinating library, founded in 1900, contains a renowned collection of Arabic and Persian manuscripts, Mughal and Rajput paintings, and even the Quran inscribed in a book just 25mm wide. A significant exhibit is Nadir Shah’s sword – perhaps this was the one he raised at Delhi’s Sunehri Mosque in 1739 to order the massacre of the city’s residents.

oGolghar

HISTORIC BUILDING

(Danapure Rd; h24hr) For a dome with a view,

climb this MC Escher-esque landmark. The British army built this massive, bulbous beehive of a granary in 1786, hoping to avoid a repeat of the 1770 famine. Fortunately it was never required. Its dual spiralling staircases (250 steps each side), designed so that workers could climb up one side and down the other, lead to an unparalleled view of

511

Patna æ Top Sights Buddha Smriti Park ............................... C3 Golghar....................................................C1 Patna Museum....................................... B2 æ Sights 1 Gandhi Museum .....................................C1 ÿ Sleeping 2 Garden Court Club ................................ C2 3 Hotel City Centre ................................... C4 4 Hotel Kautilya Vihar .................................................... A4 5 Hotel Maharaja Inn ................................ C3 6 Hotel Maurya Patna............................... C2 7 Hotel President...................................... C2 8 Hotel Windsor ........................................ C3

Har Mandir Takht

SIKH TEMPLE

Behind a grand gate and sheltered from the mayhem of Patna’s Chowk area lies this important Sikh shrine. Its miniature marble domes, sweeping staircases and fine latticework mark the spot where Guru Gobind Singh, last of the 10 Sikh gurus, was born in 1666. It’s 11km east of Gandhi Maidan.

FQila House (Jalan Museum)

MUSEUM

(%2641121; Jalan Ave; hby appointment only) This

intriguing private museum overflows with antiques ranging from elaborate Mughal-period silverware and weaponry to the wooden bed of Napoleon III. It is located on the banks of the Ganges, 12km east of Ghandi Maiden.

FGandhi Museum

MUSEUM

(Danapure Rd; h10am-6pm Sun-Fri) Contains a

pictorial history of Mahatma Gandhi’s life, plus some of his meagre belongings.

z Festivals & Events Patna honours its historic past every March with Pataliputra Mahotsava, a celebration featuring parades, sports, dancing and music.

4 Sleeping Most accommodation choices are around Fraser and Station Rds. Rooms below ₹1000 have an additional 5% tax, those above, 10%.

û Drinking 12 Elevens....................................................C3 þ Shopping 13 Ajanta ......................................................C3 Information BSTDC Tourist Office ...................(see 10) 14 Ruban Memorial Hospital & Ratan Stone Clinic...............................D2

oHotel Windsor

HOTEL $$

(%2203250; www.hotelwindsorpatna.com; Exhibition Rd; s/d ₹1200/1400; ai) This is Patna’s

best midrange hotel, with well-designed rooms, spotless bathrooms, cheery and prompt service, a superb restaurant and internet centre. With a bar it’d be perfect.

Garden Court Club HOTEL $ (%3202279; www.gardencourtclub.com; SP Verma Rd; s/d ₹500/600, with AC from ₹800/1000; a)

Take the lift within a small shopping complex up to the intimate 13-room Garden Court Club. Rooms diﬀer: some have views, some have squat toilets. The underused faux-forest open-air rooftop restaurant is a pleasant retreat from street level, though there is a pastry shop down there, which only sweetens the deal.

Hotel City Centre HOTEL $ (%2308686; hotelcitycentrepatna@rediﬀmail.com; Station Rd; s/d ₹600/800, with AC ₹1050/1250; aW) You can’t miss this modern glass tower

hotel as you exit the train station. Only one year old, its good-value rooms are still in great shape (non-AC rooms have squat toilets) and it’s perfect for a comfortable transit overnighter.

Hotel Maurya Patna HOTEL $$$ (%2203040; www.maurya.com; South Gandhi Maidan; s ₹8000, s/d incl airport transfer & breakfast ₹9000/10000; aiW) Fine appointments and

luxurious surroundings distinguish Patna’s top business hotel. The large gardens host a tempting pool and there are a few nice

S T I VA L S & E VPAT BIHAR F&EJHARKHAND FEENSTT NSIAVA L S & E V E N T S

the city and Ganges. Golghar is a short walk west of Gandhi Maidan, a large, messy park with a couple of sights that's located south of the river.

ú Eating 9 Anarkali ...................................................C3 Bellpepper Restaurant................... (see 8) Bollywood Treats ........................... (see 6) 10 Takshila...................................................A4 11 Tandoor Hut ...........................................C2

512

restaurants (and an underwhelming bar). Rooms are tastefully furnished, centrally airconditioned and have disobedient wi-fi. Hotel President HOTEL $ (%2209203; www.hotelpresidentpatna.com; oﬀ Fraser Rd; s/d from ₹675/800, with AC ₹1000/1200; ai) This family-run hotel is in a relatively

quiet location oﬀ Fraser Rd and close to Patna Museum. Rooms are simple, clean and good value with TV, seating areas and hot water.

Hotel Kautilya Vihar HOTEL $ (%2225411; bstdc@sancharnet.in; Gardiner Rd; dm ₹100, d ₹600, with AC from ₹800; a) This

hotel has typically well-worn rooms and cramped dorms. It lacks atmosphere, but there’s a restaurant and eager staff.

Hotel Maharaja Inn HOTEL $$ (%2321955; Station Rd; s/d ₹900/1100, with AC ₹1150/1450; a) The brightest in a cluster

of midrange cheapies has colourful rooms but nothing you’d mention on a postcard.

5 Eating & Drinking BIHAR & JHARKHAND B I H A R

Animated Fraser Rd is the main shopping street, with a buzz of restaurants and bars.

oBellpepper Restaurant

INDIAN $$

(Hotel Windsor, Exhibition Rd; mains ₹100-275; hlunch & dinner) The Bellpepper is an inti-

tikka and chicken reshmi kebabs (feeds two) are both extraordinary, but we can’t imagine anything not being wonderful – and we didn’t even make it to the curries or Chinese food.

oTakshila

INDIAN $$$

(Hotel Chanayka; Birchand Patel Marg; mains ₹145375; hlunch & dinner) Exuding the ambience

of the North-West Frontier with its solid furniture, exposed brick decor and copper flatware, the upscale Takshila is a meatheavy Mughlai, Afghan and tandoori gastrodream. Though the meat is every bit as good for half the price at Tandoor Hut, here you pay for the ambiance and service. Elevens LOUNGE (Dumraow Kothi, Fraser Rd; hlunch & dinner) If

you’ve been travelling any length of time in Bihar, the cocktails (₹165 to ₹220) at Patna’s first stand alone lounge go down like Gatorade at halftime – even if they do put olives in the watermelon martinis. It’s owned by Indian cricketer Kapil Dev, whose adjacent restaurant (mains ₹145 to₹375, order from the bar) features an atypical menu of recipes collected from his sporting travels throughout Asia. Bollywood Treats INDIAN $$ (Maurya Patna Hotel Arcade; mains ₹70-160; hfrom 1pm) This spotless, modern self-ser-

mate, contemporary restaurant popular for its tandoori dishes. The murg tikka Lababdar (tandoori chicken basted with garlic, ginger, green chillies, and a pistachio- and cashew-nut paste) is so good Patna’s ills will disappear into a flavour cavalcade in your mouth. No booze to wash it down, though. The best meal we had in this region.

vice cafe dishes out dosas, Chinese stir-fries, shwarma, chicken hot dogs, decent pizza and tempting brownies to Patna’s blossoming middle class in self-proclaimed ‘American style'. Well, there is a Baskin-Robbins ice cream stand just outside its doors.

oTandoor Hut

chicken tikka butter masala hurts so good.

INDIAN $$

(%delivery 9304871717; SP Verma Rd; mains ₹60-160; hlunch & dinner) It’s impossible to saunter past

the delicious dangling kebabs in the display of this take away – only stand without throwing your rupees across the counter. The chicken

Anarkali INDIAN (Mamta Hotel, cnr Fraser & Dak Bungalow Rds; mains ₹60-175) Great food. Cold beer. The

Shopping

Ajanta HANDICRAFTS (Hotel Satka Arcade, Fraser Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Come here for Patna’s best selection

MITHILA PAINTINGS Bihar’s unique and most famous folk art is its Mithila (or Madhubani) paintings. Traditionally, women from Madhubani and surrounding villages started creating strong line drawings on the walls of their homes from the first day of their marriage. Using pigments from spices, minerals, charcoal and vegetable matter, they painted local deities and scenes from mythology, often intermingled with special events and aspects of everyday life. These paintings, in both black-and-white and strong primary colours, are now professionally produced on paper, canvas and silk and are for sale. Original wall paintings can still be seen in homes around Madhubani, 160km northeast of Patna.

of Mithila paintings (see p512). Although most of the stock on display is bronzes, the owner can show you a wide range of unmounted paintings starting from ₹200 (handmade paper) to ₹1050 (silk).

Information

Internet Access Cyber World (Rajendra Path; per hr ₹20; h9.30am-9pm) Rendezvous Cyber Cafe (Hotel Windsor, Exhibition Rd; per hr ₹25; h10am-8pm) Medical Services Ruban Memorial Hospital & Ratan Stone Clinic (Gandhi Maidan; h24hr) Emergency room, clinic and pharmacy. Money State Bank of India (Gandhi Maidan) Currency and travellers cheques exchanged. Thomas Cook (Hotel Maurya Patna Arcade, South Gandhi Maidan) Currency exchange and travel agency.

Tourist Information BSTDC tourist office (%2225411; bstdc@ sancharnet.in; Hotel Kautilya Vihar, Gardiner Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Limited information. Travel Agencies Thomas Cook (%2221699; www.thomascook .in; Hotel Maurya Patna Arcade, South Gandhi Maidan; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Helpful for booking airline tickets, car rental and chauffeur arrangements.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Patna’s Jaiprakash Narayan International Airport is 8km from the city centre. Air India (%2223199; Patna airport) and GoAir (%2227184; Patna airport) fly daily to Delhi. Kingfisher Red (%1800 1800101; Patna airport) and Jet Airways (%2223045; Patna airport) fly daily to Delhi and Kolkata. Indigo (%1800 1803838; Patna airport) flies to Kolkata, and to Mumbai and Delhi via Lucknow and Ranchi, respectively. Bus The Mithapur bus station occupies a large, dusty space about 1.5km of the train station. Services include buses to Gaya (₹50, three hours, hourly), Ranchi (₹200, eight hours, several between 5pm and 9pm) and Raxaul (₹125, eight hours, 6am, 9.15pm, 9.30pm, 10.30pm and 10.50pm).

513

Car Hiring a car and driver is the best way for day trips from Patna. Most hotels and Thomas Cook (p513) can arrange this service, starting from ₹6.5 per kilometre (minimum 200km). Arrange an early start, as few drivers operate after dark. Train Patna Junction is a chaotic station, but there’s a foreign-tourist ticket counter (window 7; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) at the 1stfloor reservation office, in the right-hand wing of the station. Destinations with regular daily services include: Kolkata (Howrah station) (sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC ₹252/653/881/1467, eight to 13 hours) Delhi (sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC ₹359/954/1302/2191, 12 to 28 hours) Silguri/New Jalpaiguri (for Darjeeling and Sikkim) (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹212/564/772, 10 to 14 hours) Varanasi (2nd class/sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹83/150/365/484, five hours, 10.50am, 12.05pm and 2.30pm) Gaya (sleeper/3AC ₹120/210, 2½ hours, 9.15pm, 9.45pm and 11.30pm) Ranchi (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹232/623/851, 10 to 12 hours, 3.25pm and 9.45pm) There is no direct train to Raxaul, but it’s possible to cross the Mahatma Gandhi Setu to Hajipur – you can catch a rickshaw (Rs50) from the stand in front of Hotel City Centre – and catch one of many trains to Muzaffarpur, where you can switch for the 13021 Mithila Express to Raxaul (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹120/238/319, 3¼ hours, 5.15am), but this would only make sense if you were vehemently opposed to the bus.

8 Getting Around

The airport is located 7km west of the city centre. Autorickshaws to/from the city cost ₹125, while prepaid taxis start at ₹350. Shared autorickshaws shuttle between the train station and Gandhi Maidan bus stand (₹3), departing from the backside of the train station. For short trips, cycle-rickshaws are best.

Around Patna As the sights of Vaishali are well dispersed and transport to both Vaishali and Kesariya sporadic, it is far better to organise a car and driver (see p513) for a longish day.

BIHAR 8 & JHARKHAND A 8 R O U N D PAT N A

Post Post office (Buddha Marg)

From the Gandhi Maidan bus stand, government bus services travel to Ranchi (₹183, 10 hours, 8pm, 9.30pm and 10pm) and Raxaul (₹120, eight hours, 7.15am and 10pm).

514

VAISHALI % 06225

Most sites in Vaishali, 55km northwest of Patna, surround a large ancient coronation water tank. Dominating the skyline is a gleaming, modern Japanese Peace Pagoda (Indian/ foreigner ₹5/100), while opposite is a small museum (%229404; admission ₹5; h10am-5pm Sat-Thu) presenting clay and terracotta fig-

ures plus an intriguing 1st- to 2nd-century AD toilet pan with appropriately sized exit holes. Nearby are the ground-floor remains of a stupa that once contained Buddha’s ashes, which now reside in Patna Museum (p509). Three kilometres away in Basokund, you’ll find the most widely accepted birthplace of Lord Mahavira, the 24th and final Jain tirthankar (teacher), one of three debated locations in Bihar. An engraved stone marks the place in a flower-decorated plot. At a similar distance are the ruins of the Kolhua Complex (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h7am-5pm), comprising a hemispherical

BIHAR & JHARKHAND B I H A R

brick stupa guarded by a lion squatting atop a 2300-year-old Ashoka pillar. The pillar is plain and contains none of the Ashokan edicts usually carved onto these pillars. Nearby are the ruins of smaller stupas and monastic buildings. According to legend, Buddha was given a bowl of honey here by monkeys, who also dug out a rainwater tank for his water supply.

KESARIYA

Rising high out of the earth from where the dying Buddha donated his begging bowl, this stupa (h24hr) is an enthralling example of how nature reclaimed a deserted monument. Excavated and half revealed from under a grassy and wooded veil is what’s likely to be the world’s second-tallest (38m) Buddhist stupa dating from the Pala period. Above the 425m-circumference pedestal are five uniquely shaped terraces that form a gargantuan Buddhist tantric mandala. Each terrace has a number of niches containing

mutilated Buddha statues whose heads were lopped oﬀ by Muslim invaders. MANER

Worth visiting 30km west of Patna is Chhoti Dargah (h24hr), an architecturally elegant three-storey mausoleum fronted by a large tank. The venerable Muslim saint Makhdum Shah Daulat was buried here in 1619 under a canopied tomb. As it is auspicious to be buried close to a saint, several cloth-covered graves in front of the mausoleum keep the saint company. The large body of water is a favourite swimming spot for local children and its steps provide a good laundry site.

Raxaul % 06255 / POP 41,347

Raxaul is a grim, dirty and horribly congested border town. Most of the goods imported into Nepal pass through it, and its twin Birganj over the border. As you’d guess, it’s not a place to linger. If you must spend the night, Hotel Kaveri (%221148; Main Rd; r with/without AC ₹800/500;a) is tolerable, with room service

and a vague semblance of tourist-friendliness. Restaurants are very scarce, but you can check your email at India’s friendliest cyber house, Soni Cyber Cafe (Main Rd; per hr ₹25). The Karai Tala bus stand is 200m down a western side road about 2km south of the border. There are supposedly five daily buses to Patna, times are extremely variable (₹125, six hours, 6am, 9am, 2pm, 9pm and 10pm). The 13022 Mithila Express train runs daily to Kolkata (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹272/735/1088, 18 hours, 10am).

Gaya % 0631 / POP 383,197

Brash and loud Gaya, 100km south of Patna, is a religious centre for Hindu pilgrims who

SONEPUR MELA According to the Gajendra Moksha legend, Sonepur, 25km north of Patna, is where Vishnu ended the prehistoric battle between the lords of the forest (elephants) and the lords of the water (crocodiles). Each November/December, during the full moon of Kartik Purnima, the three-week Sonepur Mela celebrates this infamous tale. During this auspicious time devotees bathe where the Ganges joins with the Gandak and Mehi Rivers while Asia’s largest cattle fair takes place nearby at Hathi Bazaar. More than mere bovines are on sale – Marwari horses, brindled goats, camels, birds and elephants change hands, although trade in the latter is illegal.

515

CROSSING INTO NEPAL Border Hours The border at Raxaul is open from 6am to 10pm.

Foreign Exchange No banks change money in Raxaul but there are many private money changers on both sides of the border. The State Bank of India in Raxaul has an ATM.

Onward Transport Catch a cycle-rickshaw (₹20), autorickshaw or tonga (two-wheeled horse or pony carriage) from Raxaul’s bus or train station to Birganj, 5km away in Nepal. From Birganj, the most convenient and fastest option is Jai Mata di Tours & Travels (%9308051147; Main Rd, Birganj), which runs 10-seater jeeps to Kathmandu and Pokhara from its oﬃce a few hundred metres past the border every morning between 7am and 10am (₹560, six hours). Jeeps leave when full. There are also regular day and night bus departures to Kathmandu (₹350/400, nine hours) and Pokhara (₹350/425, nine hours).

Visas Nepali 15-, 30- and 90-day visas (US$25/40/100 and one passport photo) are only available from 6am to 6pm on the Nepal side of the border.

1 Sights & Activities Vishnupad Temple

HINDU TEMPLE

Close to the banks of the Falgu River south of town, the sikhara (spired) Vishnupad Temple was constructed in 1787 by Queen Ahilyabai of Maheshwar (Madhya Pradesh) and houses a 40cm ‘footprint’ of Vishnu imprinted into solid rock. Non-Hindus are not permitted to enter, but you can get a look from the pink platform near the entrance. Along the ghats on the river’s edge, Hindus bathe and light funeral pyres, so be discreet when you visit. Brahmajuni Hill

LANDMARK

One thousand stone steps lead to the top of Brahmajuni Hill, 1km southwest of the Vishnupad Temple, where Buddha is said to have delivered the fire sermon.

4 Sleeping & Eating If you arrive late or have an early departure, staying in Gaya might be more convenient than in Bodhgaya.

Hotel Vishnu International HOTEL $ (%2224422; Swarajayapur Rd; s ₹350, d ₹450-750, with AC ₹800-1200; a) Funky, with a French

castle-like exterior, this is the best-value option in town. There’s a friendly front desk and clean, well-kept rooms with high-powered fans, but hot water is only available by the bucket. Ajatsatru Hotel INDIAN, CHINESE $$ (Station Rd; breakfast ₹35-75, mains ₹35-125) This

hotel across from the train station is home to the excellent and friendly multicuisine restaurant, Sujata, that can’t be beat while waiting for a train. Bihari sweet shops line either side for dessert.

Hotel Akash

HOTEL $

(%2222205; Laxman Sahay Rd; s/d ₹250/300)

A decent budget option across from the train station, with threadbare but clean rooms. An air cooler costs an extra ₹150.

Khushi

INDIAN/CHINESE $

(Swarajayapur Rd; mains ₹40-155) A good

selection of Indian and Chinese dishes done quite well, with friendly service and stylish blue uniforms to boot. Near Hotel Vishnu.

8 Information

There’s a Bihar state tourist oﬃce (%2223635; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) and a State Bank of India ATM at the train station. Several

H T S & AC T I VG TGI EHST S & AC T I V I T I E S BIHAR S &I G JHARKHAND SI IAYA

believe temple oﬀerings here protect ones’ ancestors and relieve the recently departed from the cycle of birth and rebirth. Foreign tourists believe in making a quick getaway to Bodhgaya, 13km away. If you’re stuck, look for pilgrims oﬀering pinda (funeral cake) at the ghats along the river.

516

SASSARAM If you’re motoring on from Gaya to Varanasi, a short detour to the Mausoleum of Sher Shah (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk) is worthwhile. Seemingly floating within a large tank, the mausoleum of the historically significant emperor Sher Shah (p1089) is an exercise in architectural restraint. Its beauty lies in an aesthetic use of proportion, from its rounded dome down through a ring of chhatris (pavilions or pillar-supported canopies) to its solid pedestal. Very similar in style to Isa Khan’s tomb in Delhi (p67), it still bears vestiges of deep-blue Persian tiling. Within is the tomb of Sher Shah, his son and their family. Hasan Shah, father of Sher Shah, has his own less spectacular tomb, minus the watery setting, 200m away.

internet cafes (per hr ₹30) line Swarajayapur Rd near Hotel Vishnu.

8 Getting There & Away

BIHAR & JHARKHAND B I H A R

Bus Patna (₹60, three hours, hourly) Buses leave from the Gandhi Maidan bus stand and from a stand next to the train station. Ranchi (₹120, seven hours, hourly) Buses leave from the Gandhi Maidan bus stand. Rajgir (₹50, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes) Use the bus stand across the river in Manpur. Train Gaya is on the Delhi–Kolkata railway line. Delhi (3AC/2AC/1AC ₹1155/1555/2610, 11 to 12 hours, 10.39pm) The fastest train to Delhi is the 12301 Kolkata Rajdhani Express. Kolkata (3AC/2AC/1AC ₹710/940/1570, six hours, 4.04am) Catch the 12302 for the most convenient connection to Kolkata. Varanasi (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹127/325/441, five hours, 5.10am) The most convenient is the 13009 Doon Express. Patna (AC chair ₹165, 2½ hours, 1.10pm) The 18626 Rajendranagar Express is the most convenient of the several daily trains to Patna. Autorickshaw drivers will make the trip to Bodhgaya for ₹200 but can usually be bargained down to about ₹80.

Bodhgaya % 0631 / POP 30,883

This spiritually important town attracts Buddhist pilgrims from around the world who come for prayer, study and meditation. It was here that 2600 years ago Prince Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment beneath a bodhi tree and became Buddha. A beautiful temple in a garden setting marks the spot and a descendant of that original bodhi tree flourishes here, its roots

embedded in the same soil as its celebrated ancestor. Many monasteries and temples dot the bucolic landscape, built in their national style by foreign Buddhist communities. But don’t expect a tranquil monastic retreat – the town is firmly planted on the non-religious tourism map as well, and with that has come the usual invasion of tourist paraphernalia, souvenir stalls and a serious rubbish problem. Conversely, Bodhgaya has the best range of accommodation in Bihar and oﬀers the most traveller camaraderie of anywhere in Bihar and Jharkhand. The best time to visit is October to March when Tibetan pilgrims come down from McLeod Ganj in Dharamsala. The high season is from December to January, which is also when the Dalai Lama often visits.

1 Sights & Activities oMahabodhi Temple

HINDU TEMPLE

(camera/video ₹20/300; h4am-9pm)

The magnificent Unesco World Heritagelisted Mahabodhi Temple, where Buddha attained enlightenment and formulated his philosophy of life, forms the spiritual heart of Bodhgaya. The Mahabodhi Temple was built in the 6th century AD atop the site of a temple erected by Emperor Ashoka almost 800 years earlier. After being razed by 11thcentury Muslim invaders, the temple underwent several major restorations, the last in 1882. Topped by a 50m pyramidal spire, the ornate structure houses a 10th-century, 2m-high gilded image of a seated Buddha. Amazingly, four of the original sculpted stone railings surrounding the temple, dating from the Sunga period (184–72 BC), have survived amid the replicas. Pilgrims and visitors from all walks of life and religions come to worship or just

soak up the ambience of this sacred place. There’s a well-manicured Meditation Park

(admission ₹25 5-10am & 5-9pm, ₹20 10am-5pm)

for those seeking extra solitude within the temple grounds. An enthralling way to start or finish the day is to stroll around the perimeter of the temple compound and watch a sea of maroon and yellow dip and rise as monks perform endless prostrations on their prayer boards. Monasteries & Temples

MONASTERIES, TEMPLES

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high Buddha towers above a pleasant garden at the end of Temple St. The impressive monument was unveiled by the Dalai Lama in 1989, and is surrounded by 10 smaller sculptures of Buddha’s disciples. The statue is partially hollow and is said to contain some 20,000 bronze Buddhas. Archaeological Museum MUSEUM (%2200739; admission ₹10; h8am-5pm) This

museum contains a small collection of local Buddha figures and parts of the original granite railings and pillars rescued from the Mahabodhi Temple.

Bodhgaya Multimedia Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner ₹30/100; h8am-8pm) The

Dalai Lama himself blessed the 2010 opening of this visual museum, which is low on production value but big on information and historical perspective.

C Courses

Root Institute for Wisdom MEDITATION, YOGA Culture (%2200714; www.rootinstitute.com; hoﬃce 8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm) This foreign-run

institute holds various meditation courses (from two to 21 days) between late October and March. A requested donation of ₹750 per day covers the course, accommodation and meals. Intermediate-level courses are also scheduled from December to February.

BUDDHA’S BODHI Surely the most sacred fig tree ever to grace the Earth was the Bodhi Tree at Bodhgaya’s Mahabodhi Temple, under which Prince Siddhartha Gautama, the spiritual teacher and founder of Buddhism, achieved enlightenment. The tree that stands there today, though, is a mere descendant of the original. Known as the Sri Maha Bodhi, the original tree was paid special attention by Ashoka the Great, an Indian emperor who ruled most of the subcontinent from 269 to 232 BC, a century or so after Buddha’s believed death between 411 and 400 BC. His wife, Tissarakkhā, wasn’t such a fan of the tree and in a fit of jealousy and rage, caused the original Bodhi Tree’s death by poisonous thorns shortly after becoming queen. Thankfully, before its death, one of the tree’s saplings was carried oﬀ to Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka by Sanghamitta (Ashoka’s daughter), where it continues to flourish. A cutting was carried back to Bodhgaya and planted where the original once stood. The red sandstone slab between the tree and the temple was placed there by Ashoka and marks the spot of Buddha’s enlightenment – it’s referred to as the Vajrasan (Diamond Throne). Buddha was said to have remained under the original tree for one week after his enlightenment, staring unblinking in an awed gesture of gratitude and wonder. Today, pilgrims and tourists alike flock here to attempt to do exactly the same thing, and the tree is considered the most important of Buddhism’s four holiest sites.

URSES BIHAR C & OJHARKHAND COD B UH R SGEAYA S

One of Bodhgaya’s great joys is its collection of monasteries, each oﬀering visitors a unique opportunity to peek into diﬀerent Buddhist cultures and compare architectural styles. For example, the Indosan Nipponji Temple (h5am-noon & 2-6pm) is an exercise in quiet Japanese understatement compared to the richly presented Bhutanese Monastery nearby. The most impressive is the newer Tergar Monastery of the Karmapa (Black Hat sect), a glory of Tibetan decorative arts that will leave you slack-jawed as you enter. A none-too-distant runner-up is the impressive Thai Monastery, a brightly coloured wat with gold leaf shimmering from its rooftop and arches and manicured gardens. Meditation sessions are held here mornings and evenings. The Tibetan Karma Temple and Namgyal Monastery each contain large prayer wheels. Other noteworthy monasteries include those from the Chinese Monastery, Vietnamese Monastery and Nepali Monastery. Monasteries are open sunrise to sunset.

Great Buddha Statue MONUMENT (oﬀ Temple St; h7am-noon & 2-5pm) This 25m-

518

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BIHAR & JHARKHAND B I H A R

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The 6.45am meditation session is open to all, and for a donation visitors are welcome to stay on for breakfast. You can also catch drop-in yoga classes at 11.45am Tuesday to Saturday. Bodhgaya Vipassana Meditation MEDITATION Centre (Dhamma Bodhi; %2200437; www.dhamma.org)

Runs intensive 10-day vipassana courses twice each month throughout the year. The small compound is 4km west of town on Boghgaya Rd and runs on donations.

International Meditation Centre MEDITATION (%2200707; per day from ₹200) The donation-

only courses here are more informal and year-round, though anything less than a three-day commitment is frowned upon.

Tergar Monastery BUDDHISM (%2201256; www.tergar.org) Oﬀers courses

on Tibetan Buddhism and welcomes longterm qualified volunteer English teachers.

4 Sleeping Rates listed are for the high season (from December to January) but can fall by as much as 50% in the low season, so it pays to negotiate. A 10% tax is often tacked on to midrange choices and above.

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Sujata 1 Bridge

Bodhg aya Rd

Mahabodhi Temple

Muchalinda Lake

oMohammad’s House

GUESTHOUSE $

(%9934022691; yasmd_2002@rediﬀmail.com; near Kal Chakra Ground, Miya Bigha; d without bathroom ₹250-350, with bathroom ₹400-500; iW) This is a

wonderful opportunity to live within a village (Miya Bigha). Rooms are basic but spotless and popular with long-term stayers. A rooftop terrace gives commanding views of rice paddies, sunsets and monasteries. Friendly Mohammad is a mine of useful information and advice, an excellent chef (p520) and refuses to pay commission to rickshaw touts. There’s a one-month minimum stay in high season.

oTaj Darbar

HOTEL $$$

(%2200053; www.hoteltajdarbar; Bodhgaya Rd; s/d ₹2800/3200; aW) The best-value top-

end choice by a landslide, with polished marble hallways and spacious rooms with ivory-white bed sheets, small seating areas, working desks and sporadic bathtubs. The restaurant is also very popular with expats and good value for money, though we had to cut away an inexcusable amount of fat from our mutton bhuna ghost. It’s nothing extraordinary, but it excels at the ordinary. Rahul Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (%2200709; rahul_bodhgaya@yahoo.com; d ₹250300) This serene guesthouse run as a family

519

Bodhgaya æ Top Sights Great Buddha Statue ............................ B3 Mahabodhi Temple................................ C2 Thai Monastery...................................... B3

18 Rahul Guest House ................................ C1

Root Institute for Wisdom Culture ........................................(see 14) 19 Royal Residency.....................................A2 20 Taj Darbar ...............................................A2 ú Eating 21 Fujiya Green............................................C2 22 Gautam ................................................... D1 23 Hotel Sujata ............................................B3 24 Mohammad Restaurant (Aug-Oct) .............................................C2 25 Mohammad Restaurant (Nov-Mar) ............................................C2 Royal Residency............................(see 19) 26 Sewak Tea Corner..................................C2 27 Siam Thai ................................................C2 28 Tibet Om Cafe ........................................C2

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 13 International Meditation Centre........... B2 14 Root Institute for Wisdom Culture................................................. A3

þ Shopping 29 Kundan Bazaar.......................................B2 30 Mahabodhi Bookshop............................D2 31 Tibetan Refugee Market ........................ C1

ÿ Sleeping Bhutanese Monastery.................... (see 2) 15 Hotel Tathagat International ................ C2 Karma Temple ................................ (see 7) 16 Kirti Guest House .................................. C2 17 Mohammad's House ............................. B2

Information 32 BSTDC Tourist Complex .......................B2 33 Middle Way Travels................................D2 34 Verma Health Care Centre ..................................................D2

home (and kept sparkling clean as a result) is the pick of the assembly of guesthouses backing onto the Kalachakra Maidan. The rooms upstairs, with whitewashed walls, nice breezes and simple furnishings, are better than those on the ground floor. Kirti Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$ (%2200744; kirtihouse744@yahoo.com; Bodhgaya Rd; d incl breakfast ₹2400-3500; ai) Run by

the Tibetan Monastery and one of the best of the midrange places. Kirti is normally known for its clean, bright rooms (although a mouse did scurry across the room we inspected) and its monastery-like facade is particularly pretty. Ask for a mouse-free front room opening out onto the balcony.

Royal Residency HOTEL $$$ (%2200124; www.theroyalresidency.net/bodhgaya; Bodhgaya Rd; s/d ₹6000/6500; aW) Bodhga-

ya’s most luxurious hotel is about 1.5km west of the centre. Fine woodwork, rich marble, pleasant gardens and comfy rooms await

those who are not too concerned with getting good value for money. Hotel Tathagat International HOTEL $$$ (%2200106; www.hoteltathagatbodhgaya.net; Bodhgaya Rd; s/d ₹2200/2750; aW) The tapioca–

pudding paint job was a bad idea, but the simple rooms are clean and conservatively furnished. Avoid the cramped deluxe rooms and the Mahabodhi Temple–end rooms above the generator.

If you don’t mind some simple rules, it’s possible to stay at some of the monasteries and dharma centres. Two of the best are the Bhutanese Monastery (%2200710; Buddha Rd; d ₹300, with bathroom ₹500), a tranquil

place typified by colourful surroundings, gardens and big rooms, and the Tibetan Karma

Temple (%2200795; ktcmbodhgaya@yahoo.com; Temple St; d shared bathroom ₹300). Another excellent choice is the Root Institute for Wisdom Culture (%2200714; www.rootinstitute.com; dm ₹200), whose well-kept dorm

with mosquito nets is open to everyone.

EEPING BIHAR S &LJHARKHAND S LOEDEHPGI N B AYA G

æ Sights 1 Archaeological Museum ....................... C2 2 Bhutanese Monastery........................... B3 3 Bodhgaya Multimedia Museum ........... C2 4 Bodhi Tree.............................................. C2 5 Chinese Monastery ............................... B2 6 Indosan Nipponji Temple...................... B3 7 Karma Temple ....................................... B3 8 Mahabodhi Temple Entrance ............... C2 9 Namgyal Monastery.............................. C2 10 Nepali Monastery .................................. C3 11 Tergar Monastery.................................. B2 12 Vietnamese Monastery......................... B2

520

CHOOSING THE RIGHT CHARITY Central Bihar is one of the poorest parts of India and with its influx of visitors and Buddhist pilgrims, Bodhgaya has become home to numerous charity organisations and schools that rely on donations and volunteers. Some are set up by dodgy characters jumping on the charity bandwagon to fleece tourists. Be wary of those who approach you in the street for donations, especially children who besiege tourists asking for money for everything from school books and educational sponsorship to new cricket bats – they may speak several languages but are most likely illiterate. Genuine charities advise that you never give money directly to children. It’s far better to help by donating to legitimate institutions or volunteering. For more information, see p39.

BIHAR & JHARKHAND B I H A R

5 Eating & Drinking During the peak season, when Tibetan pilgrims pour into Bodhgaya, temporary tent restaurants are set up around the Tibetan Refugee Market, serving a range of Tibetan dishes and sweets. Word of warning: no restaurant listed here at the time of writing had a sign boldly claiming its inclusion in the guide at time of publication. Don’t be duped.

oMohammad Restaurant

CAFE $

(mains ₹30-110) Hands-on Mohammed has been cooking professionally since he was 13 and it shows: his traveller tent serves up fresh, cheap food that you miss no matter where you are from. Fresh vegetables not drowned into submission in butter and oil? Check. (Sorta) English breakfasts, Tibetan momos (dumplings), Israeli saksuka, quesadillas, Japanese food, Chinese fare, Greek salads, home-made soups – check, check, check. From November to March, he’s located next to the Tibetan Refugee Market; from August to October, in an extremely cramped space behind Fujiya Green. Flashy it ain’t, but it has some of the town’s best food and those in the know flock to it. Save room for the tasty chocolate balls.

oTibet Om Cafe

TIBETAN, CAFE $

(dishes ₹30-100; hNov-Mar) A sweet Tibetan fam-

ily has been coming down from Dharamsala every winter since 1986 to feed travellers hun-

gry for momos, pancakes, brown bread, pies and cakes. The food is cheap and tasty and you can loiter endlessly. It lies within the Mayayana Guesthouse of the Namgyal Monastery. Fujiya Green CAFE $ (oﬀ Kalachakra Maidan; mains ₹30-85) Another

makeshift restaurant that’s hugely popular with travellers, with surprisingly brightly coloured walls and tile flooring inside. The menu – running the gamut of Asian travel staples – excels across the board.

Sewak Tea Corner SWEETS $ (items ₹6-50) If you’re seeking sustenance at

rock-bottom prices, look no further than this dhaba-style eatery, little more than a glorified roadside stand, for excellent snacks, sweets, lassis and basic thalis. The outdoor seating is a great spot to sit back with a chai and watch Bodhgaya go by. Siam Thai THAI $$ (Bodhgaya Rd; mains ₹100-195) Authentic is a

stretch – dishes here are slightly oﬀ – but the fact remains that if you’re looking to shake up your tastebuds, this Thai place does the job…just not as good as it should considering it’s Thai owned and around the corner from the Thai Monastery. Still, we gobbled down our green curry in an anti-masala delirium. Locals report the quality improves dramatically when the Thai direct flight is operating. We should hope.

Gautam BREAKFAST $ (Bodhgaya Rd; mains ₹20-80) A semi-tent aﬀair

that’s a good choice for standard traveller fare, notably great banana pancakes and cinnamon masala tea – if you can stand the owner spitting in the restaurant’s ‘garden’ while you eat. The Royal Residency (Bodhgaya Rd; mains ₹85-200) and Hotel Sujata (Buddha Rd; mains ₹120-250) are similar high-class restaurants in two of Bodhgaya’s upmarket hotels. They are the only ones in town to oﬃcially serve alcohol (₹250 for a beer).

Shopping

Kundan Bazaar BOOKSTORE (Bodhgaya Rd; www.kundanbazar.com; h9am9pm) Novels and Buddhist literature. Book

swap or hire.

Mahabodhi Bookshop BOOKSTORE (Mahabodhi Temple; h5am-9pm) A range of

Buddhist literature within the temple complex.

Tibetan Refugee Market CLOTHING (h8am-8pm Oct-Jan) There are slim pickings

here for winter woollens or textiles – most items appear to be purchased from a (tasteless) department store in Delhi. Elsewhere there are scores of souvenir stalls.

8 Information

Internet cafes (per hour ₹30) cluster around Hotel Tathagat International and across from the Mahabodi Temple entrance. Medical Services Verma Health Care Centre (%2201101; h24hr) Emergency room and clinic. Money State Bank of India (Bodhgaya Rd) Best rates for cash and travellers cheques; has an ATM. Post Main post office (cnr Bodhgaya & Godam Rds)

Travel Agencies Middle Way Travels (%2200648; Bodhgaya Rd; h9am-10pm) A sign of success is when others open businesses with similar names: this is the one to deal with. Almost opposite the temple entrance, the agency exchanges currency and travellers cheques, sells or swaps books, and deals with ticketing and car hire.

8 Getting There & Away

Gaya airport is 8km west of town. Air India (%2201155; airport) flies once a week to Kolkata; during the high season there are direct international flights from Bangkok (Thailand), Colombo (Sri Lanka), Thimphu (Bhutan) and Yangon (Myanmar). Overcrowded shared autorickshaws (₹15) leave from the T-junction of Bodhgaya Rd and Sujata Bridge for the 13km trip to Gaya. A private autorickshaw to Gaya should cost ₹100 in high season.

SERENE SUNSETS Bodhgaya is often privy to some spectacular sunsets. At dusk, head out halfway across the Sujata Bridge and watch the fiery-red glow descend over the Mahobodhi Temple.

% 06112 / POP 33,691

The fascinating surrounds of Rajgir are bounded by five semiarid rocky hills, each lined with vestiges of ancient ‘Cyclopean’ walls – once the ancient capital of Magadha. Thanks to both Buddha and Mahavira spending some serious time here, Rajgir is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists and Jains. A mention in the Mahabharata also ensures that Rajgir has a good supply of Hindu pilgrims who come to bathe in the hot springs at the Lakshmi Narayan Temple. However, foreign travellers criminally undervisit the ramshackle town and its environs. It’s a shame – a couple of days spent exploring the many historic Buddhist and Jain sites around town and the ancient university site of Nalanda (p522), 12km south, provides the perfect complement to Bodhgaya, 80km away. Beyond that, ruins pepper the landscape. The centre is 500m east of the main road, on which you’ll find the train station, bus stand and a number of hotels. Rajgir Mahotsava, in October, is the town’s three-day cultural festival featuring classical Indian music, folk music and dance.

1 Sights & Activities The easiest way to see Rajgir’s scattered sites is to rent a tonga. A four-hour tour that includes the hot springs, Vishwashanti Stupa, the Son Bhandar caves, Naulakha Mandir, Jain Temple, Japanese Temple, Veerayatan, Venuvana Vihar and the shrine of Maniyar Math is ₹500.

oVishwashanti Stupa

BUDDHIST TEMPLE

About 5km south of town (take a tonga), a wobbly, single-person ropeway (chairlift return ticket ₹30, 8.15am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm) runs to the top of Ratnagiri Hill and its blazing-white 40m-high Vishwashanti Stupa. Recesses in the stupa feature golden statues of Buddha in the four stages of his life – birth, enlightenment, preaching and death. Expansive views reveal some of the 26 Jain shrines dotting the distant hilltops. If you walk back down, you can detour to the remains of a stupa and Griddhakuta (Vulture’s Peak), where Buddha preached to his disciples.

oVeerayatan

MUSEUM

Near the Indo Hokke Hotel, this fascinating Jain museum (admission ₹15; www.veerayatan bihar.org; h7am-6pm) tells the history of each

BIHAR 8 & JHARKHAND R 8 AJGIR

Tourist Information BSTDC Tourist Complex (%2200672; cnr Bodhgaya Rd & Temple St; h10.30am-5pm Tue-Sat) Useless.

521

Rajgir

522

of the 24 Jain tirthankars through ornate dollhouse-like 3-D panel depictions made from wood and metal. The level of detail is astonishing. Don’t miss the display by artist-in-residence Arharya Shri Chandanaiji Maharaj, made by hand out of flour. Other Sights

LANDMARKS, HOT SPRINGS

BIHAR & JHARKHAND B I H A R

Spread around town are relics of the ancient city, caves and places associated with Ajatasatru and Bimbisara. Hindu pilgrims are drawn to the rowdy Lakshmi Narayan Temple complex, about 2km south of town, to enjoy the health benefits of the hot springs. The murky grey Brahmakund, the hottest spring, is a scalding 45°C. Temple priests will show you around, pour hot water on you and ask for generous donations (₹100 to ₹200 for this contrived ritual); you can politely shoo them oﬀ as you are only being targeted because you are a tourist. It’s a fascinating but confusing place with no English signs, so tread carefully so you don’t unintentionally oﬀend. Not as spiritually significant, but perhaps more realistic, is next door’s Rajasthan-pink Buddha Jal Vihar (Indian/foreigner ₹25/50; hmen 5-10am & noon-9pm, women 10am-noon),

an inviting, crystal-clear swimming pool set in well-manicured gardens and perfect to beat the heat.

4 Sleeping & Eating oIndo Hokke Hotel

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

(%255245; centaur@dte.vsnl.net.in; s/d ₹6000/6500; aiWs) Surrounded by lovely

gardens, this is Bihar’s unique sleeping experience. Most of the rooms are furnished Japanese style with tatami mats instead of beds, teak furniture and Eastern decor. Soak in the Japanese bathhouse and meditate in the towering cylindrical Buddhist prayer hall.

Hotel Gautam Vihar HOTEL $ (%255273; Nalanda Rd; dm ₹75, d ₹450, with AC ₹700; a) One of three Bihar Tourism (BSTDC)

hotels in town, this is well located between the bus and train stations. Though typically rundown, the rooms are spacious with lounge chairs, TV and hot water and – perhaps more importantly – a friendly manager with hospitality training under his belt.

Siddharth Hotel HOTEL ₹₹ (%255616; www.siddharthrajgir.com; r ₹1050, with AC ₹2500; aiW) Near the hot springs, Sid-

dharth has undergone a dramatic renovation and now features all the facilities of a top-

end hotel. Prices are shockingly ambitious in high season (October to March, when rates also include breakfast, mineral water and tea) but come back down to earth with a 30% discount in the low season. Rajgir Residency HOTEL $$$ (%255404; www.rajgir-residency.com; s/d ₹3800/ 4600; aW) It lacks personality but has bath-

tubs and provides top-end comfort with two restaurants that can whip up Thai or Korean if you ask.

Lotus Restaurant INDIAN/JAPANESE $$$ (meals ₹40-275) At the Indo Hokke Hotel, this

upscale restaurant with high-backed chairs and long tables is part Japanese, part Indian/ Chinese. The pricier Japanese menu features soba noodles, teriyaki and tempura, with authentic flavours and fresh ingredients (including authentic pepper, pickles and tea) – a refreshing left oﬀ the ghee highway. Green Restaurant (mains ₹40-100) Opposite

INDIAN $

the Lakshmi Narayan temple complex and hot springs, this simple restaurant oﬀers great Indian meals. The thali (₹60 to ₹100) comes with a memorable spicy dahl fry.

8 Information

There’s a BSTDC tourist oﬃce at the Hotel Gautam Vihar, about 1km south of the train station on Nalanda Rd, and a State Bank of India ATM on Bank Rd about 200m west of the bus stand; and another across from the temple complex.

8 Getting There & Around

Frequent buses run to Gaya (₹40, 2½ hours) and Nalanda (₹6, 30 minutes) from the bus stand on the road to Nalanda. Ridiculously crowded shared jeeps also shuttle between Rajgir and Nalanda (₹10). There is only one direct bus to Patna (₹55, three hours, 4.30pm). Three express trains connect Rajgir with Patna daily (SL/ CC/3AC/2AC ₹120/165/210/279, three to five hours, 8.10am, 2.50pm and 11.30pm).

Around Rajgir NALANDA % 061194

Founded in the 5th century AD, Nalanda was the ancient world’s great university and an important Buddhist centre. When Chinese scholar and traveller Xuan Zang visited sometime between 685 and 762 AD, about 10,000 monks and students lived here, studying theology, astronomy, metaphysics, medicine

KUNDALPUR

Just outside Nalanda you’ll find the striking Nandyavarta Mahal (h5am-9pm) at Kundalpur, believed by the Jain Digamber sect to be the birthplace of Lord Mahavira, the final tirthankar and founder of Jainism. The small temple complex houses three hot-white temples, the main featuring a toscale postured idol of Mahavira. Inside the serene Trikal Chaubeesi Jinmandir within the same complex you’ll find 72 tirthanker idols representing 24 each of the past age, the present age and the future age.

JHARKHAND Jharkhand was hewn out of neighbouring Bihar in 2000 to meet the autonomy demands of the Adivasi (tribal) population. Despite the

fledgling state having a jaw-dropping 40% of the country’s mineral wealth (mostly coal, copper and iron ore), rich forests, several major industrial centres and the healthy budget of a newly formed state, it still suﬀers thanks to poverty, incompetence, corruption, and outbursts of Maoist and Naxalite violence. For travellers, Jharkhand’s prime attractions are the Jain pilgrimage centre at Parasnath Hill, its national parks and the chance to explore a tourist-free northern India.

523

Ranchi % 0651 / POP 846,454

Set on a plateau at 700m and marginally cooler than the plains, Jharkhand’s capital, Ranchi, was the summer capital of Bihar under the British. There’s little of interest in the city and it’s not really on the way to anywhere except Betla (Palamau) National Park (p525).

1 Sights & Activities Jagannath Temple

HINDU TEMPLE

The Jagannath Temple, about 12km southwest of town (₹200 to ₹250 return by autorickshaw), is a smaller version of the great Jagannath Mandir at Puri (p595), and is open to non-Hindus. Every year, at the same time and in the same manner as in Puri, Jagannath and his brother and sister gods are charioted to their holiday home, a smaller temple some 500m away.

4 Sleeping & Eating Station Rd, running between the train and bus stations, is lined with hotels of varying quality. Other hotels and restaurants can be found on the seemingly endless Main Rd, which runs at right angles to Station Rd. A 7% luxury tax is sometimes levied.

oChanakya

HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ BNR Hotel (%2461481; chanakyabnrranchi@hotmail.com; Station Rd; s/d ₹1730/2081; aiW) This part-historic

rail hotel, almost opposite the train station, is a red-tiled terracotta-roofed Raj relic. It’s been completely renovated by the Chanakya group (and expanded from 14 to 82 rooms, no less), with extra-large rooms, rain-style showers and hardwood floors. There’s free wi-fi in the business centre, a bar, a very good restaurant and parrots in the trees. Unfortunately, the super-spacious 110-year-old heritage rooms have all been booked on contract, but check ahead just in case that went belly up.

JHARKHAND S I G H T S &R TCITH VSI T&I EAC S TIVITIES BIHAR & JHARKHAND SAC IAGNH

and philosophy. It’s said that Nalanda’s three libraries were so extensive they burnt for six months when invaders sacked the university in the 12th century. Allow an hour or two for wandering the extensive ruins (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video camera ₹25; h9am-5.30pm). They’re peaceful and well maintained with a park-like atmosphere of clipped lawns, shrubs and roses. A guide (₹100) is a worthwhile investment in unravelling the labyrinthine buildings and their history. The red-brick ruins consist of nine monasteries and four main temples. Most impressive is the Great Stupa, with steps, terraces, a few intact votive stupas, and monks’ cells. Across from the interesting Multimedia Museum is the archaeological museum (admission ₹5; h8am-5pm), a small but fascinating museum housing the Nalanda University seal and a host of sculptures and bronzes unearthed from Nalanda and Rajgir. Among the many Buddha figures and Picasso-like 9th-century Kirtimukha (gargoyle) is a bizarre multiple-spouted pot. About 2km further on from the museum is the huge Xuan Zang Memorial Hall (Indian/ foreigner ₹5/50; h8am-5pm), built by the Chinese as a peace pagoda in honour of the famous Chinese traveller who studied and taught for some years at Nalanda. Modernday backpackers will appreciate the statue of Xuan Zang at the front. Regular shared jeeps run between Rajgir and Nalanda village (₹10), and from there you can take a shared tonga (per person ₹10 when full) for the final 3km to the site of Nalanda.

524

THE HOLY PARASNATH

BIHAR & JHARKHAND J H A R K H A N D

Parasnath, a dusty town in eastern Jharkhand, is the railhead for the major Jain pilgrimage centre in east India. The site and its 31 temples blanket the top of Parasnath Hill – Jharkhand’s highest point. At the summit (1366m), where the Parasnath Temple now stands, 20 of the 24 Jain tirthankars reached salvation, including Parasnath at the age of 100. The best approach is from the auspicious town of Madhuban, 13km northeast of Parasnath, and home to some magnificent temples itself. The daily pilgrimage begins at 3am from the village, where it’s a 9km jaunt to the top, followed by a 9km loop visiting each of the temples. The entire 27km circuit takes about 12 hours. If you don’t want to walk you can hire a dandi (a cart carried by two men) for ₹2000 return. Water and snacks are available along the way. During holidays, up to 15,000 people per day make the jaunt. You’re likely to spend one, if not two, nights here. There are several dharamsalas (pilgrim’s rest houses) in Madhuban, which are more or less free save a nominal upkeep fee, but nearly always jam-packed. For a proper hotel, the government-run and extra friendly Yatri Nivas (%0658232365; shikharjioﬃce@yahoo.com; r from ₹300) has refreshingly comfortable rooms (with TV, lockers and hot water). Don’t miss the small but well-done Jain Museum (admission ₹5; h8am-6.30pm Mar-Oct, 8.30am-6pm Nov-Feb). Parasnath is on the Kolkata–Gaya–Delhi train line. Convenient options include the 12875 Neelachal Express to Gaya (SL/3AC/2AC ₹140/292/383, three hours) and Varanasi (₹196/494/662, seven hours) at 12.44am; and the 12308 Jodhpur Howrah Superfast Express to Kolkata (₹175/434/581, 5½ hours, 10.26pm). Regular minibuses run from Parasnath’s bus stand to Madhuban every half-hour (₹30, 40 minutes). From Ranchi, you’ll need to hire a car.

Hotel Embassy HOTEL $ (%2460449; embassyhotel@rediﬀmail.com; Station Rd; s/d ₹600/700, with AC from ₹700/850; a)

One of the few budget places along Station Rd to accept foreigners; the comfortable rooms are refreshingly contemporary and decently clean.

Hotel Capitol Hill HOTEL $$$ (%2331330; www.hotelcapitolhill.com; Main Rd; s/d ₹4500/5000; aW) A classy upmarket hotel in

the Capitol Hill shopping complex. The ultramodern 3rd-floor lobby with cream leather chairs complements equally modern rooms with a Scandinavian touch and wi-fi. The lipstick-red bar is Ranchi’s most stylish. Planet Masala CAFE $ (56C Main Rd; mains ₹50-90) A great, modern

cafe oﬀering some 26 types of dosas, veg pizzas and Indian/Chinese dishes, sundaes and proper but odd espresso. The jazzed-up fourstar thali (₹138; feeds two) is excellent. The Nook INDIAN $$ (Station Rd; mains ₹75-140) The best midrange

restaurant in the train station area; the dining room in Hotel Kwality Inns is comfortable and the service attentive without being

obsequious. The Indian, tandoori and Chinese excel and there’s alcohol on tap. Hotel Amrit HOTEL $ (%2461952; Station Rd; s/d/tr from ₹380/500/600, with AC ₹980/1200; a) Cheap

option near the Embassy. AC rooms are in much better shape than others. Paint donations probably accepted – Lord knows it needs it.

Veda é Café CAFE $ (3rd fl, Roshpa Tower, Main Rd; sandwiches ₹4580) Stylish cafe across from Planet Masala,

with sandwiches, pizza and better coffee.

8 Information

The most helpful tourist information is at Samridhi Travels (%2332179; www.samridhitravels. com; Main Rd; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 6pm Sun) at the Birsa Vihar tourist complex. It makes train reservations and accommodation bookings and is next door to a most unhelpful government tourist oﬃce. The State Bank of India (Main Rd; h10am3.30pm Mon-Fri) changes cash and travellers cheques, and has an ATM. Chawla Travels & Cafe (Gurunanak Market, Station Rd; per hr ₹20; h8am-10.30pm), within a small shopping centre next to Hotel Embassy, has internet access. In the same shopping centre is Suhana Tour and Travels (%3293808, 9431171394; suhana_

jharkhand tour@yahoo.co.in; h8am-8pm MonSat, till 2pm Sun), which organises day trips to local waterfalls (from ₹400) and three-day trips to Betla (Palamau) National Park with unsophisticated drivers (from ₹4200 for four people), as well as other transport ticketing.

8 Getting There & Away

Betla (Palamau) National Park % 06562

This undisputed natural gem is 140km west of Ranchi and one of the better places in India to see wild elephants. Tiger sightings are comparatively rare. The park covers around 1026 sq km, while the core area of 232 sq km was declared as Betla National Park in 1989. Stands of sal forest, rich evergreens, teak trees and bamboo thickets are home to some 17 tigers, 52 leopards, 216 elephants and four lonely nilgai (antelope) according to a 2007 census. This area was the seat of power of the Adivasi kings of the Chero dynasty and the ruins of its 16th-century forts and 10km of walls still exist in the jungle.

525

open year-round, but the best time to visit is October to April. If you can stand the heat, May is prime time for tiger spotting as forest cover is reduced and animals venture out in search of waterholes. Jeep safaris (per hr ₹350) can be arranged privately at the park gate. You must also hire a local guide (per hr ₹50) to accompany you. The park has two pachyderms for elephant safaris (per hr ₹200, up to 4 people)

so you can plod into the jungle for an unparalleled look at the flora and fauna. The best accommodation is the superbly renovated Forest Lodge (r without/with AC ₹920/1070; a), with viewing balconies, LCD TV, spacious bathrooms and an all-around luxurious feel (for a Indian-run forest lodge, mind you). Just nearby is the Tree House (r ₹318), with two elevated sets of rooms built out of teak and containing two bedrooms, a bathroom and an observation deck. Both can be booked through the park oﬃce. The walls drew the short straw at the government-run Van Vihar (%06567226513; dm ₹100, d from ₹400, with AC ₹900; a), where the new flooring does little to compensate for the fact that there is more peeling going on here than at a banana plantation! The nearest town to the park entrance is Daltonganj (Medininagar), 25km away. There are six daily buses between Betla and Daltonganj (₹15, one hour) or you can arrange a taxi for around ₹500. Daltonganj is connected to Ranchi by bus (non-AC/AC ₹100/200, six hours, hourly). Alternatively, organise a tour through a Ranchi travel agency that will take you directly to the park. Suhana Tour and Travels (p524) has two-day trips, or longer, from ₹3200 per person, including transport, accommodation and safari. This is probably the best option considering the inadequate transport and safety issues in this isolated and sometimes lawless part of the state. In any case, call the park for security advice before leaving. If you do come independently, Betla Tour & Travels (%226559, 9955527371), next door to Van Vihar, can make all of your arrangements.

JHARKHAND 8 BIHAR & JHARKHAND 8 E T L A ( PA L A M AU ) N AT I O N A L PA R K B

Ranchi’s Birsa Munda Airport is 6km from the city centre. Kingfisher Red (%1800 2333131; airport) flies daily to Kolkata and Delhi (direct flights to Patna had been cancelled during time of research). Air India (%2503255) has daily flights to Delhi and Mumbai. Jet Airways (%2250051) flies to Kolkata and Delhi. A prepaid taxi to Station Rd from the airport is ₹200 outside the terminal (you’ll pay ₹50 more inside). From the government bus stand on Station Rd, there are five hourly departures to Gaya (₹130, six hours) from 6.30am to 10.30am; and one to Patna (₹183, nine hours, 9.30pm). There are additional and more comfortable departures from the Birsa bus stand oﬀ Old HB Rd. Buses to Daltonganj (for Betla National Park) leave from the Ratu Rd bus stand (non-AC/AC ₹100/200, six hours, hourly). From the Birsa Vihar tourist complex on Main Rd there are two deluxe buses to Patna at 8pm (non-AC ₹200) and 9.30pm (AC ₹500). The 18626 Hatia-Patna Express (6.15am) calls at Gaya (AC Chair ₹324, 6½ hours) and Patna (CC ₹383, 10 hours). For Kolkata you can take the 12020 Shatabdi Express (CC/1AC ₹645/1195, 7½ hours, 1.40pm) or the overnight 18616 Howrah-Hatia Express (SL/3AC/2AC/1AC ₹187/496/679/1140, 9½ hours, 9.40pm).

The park (%222650, 9973819242; dtj_fdp trpal@sancharnet.in; admission per vehicle ₹100, camera/video ₹100/500; h6-10am & 2-5pm) is

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Sikkim East Sikkim . . . . . . . . .530 Gangtok . . . . . . . . . . . 530 North Sikkim . . . . . . . . 538 Gangtok to Singhik. . 538 South Sikkim . . . . . . .540 Namchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540 Jorethang (Naya Bazaar). . . . . . . . . . . . .541 West Sikkim . . . . . . . . 541 Ravangla (Rabongla) 541 Geyzing, Tikjuk & Legship. . . . . . . . . . . . . 543 Pelling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543 The Monastery Loop 545

Best Places to Stay » Camping on the Goecha La trek (p548) » Elgin Mount Pandim (p544)

» Mt Narsing Resort (p542)

Why Go? If you’re suﬀering from too much heat, dust or crowds, then the tiny, former Himalayan kingdom of Sikkim is the perfect antidote. Fresh mountain air sweeps the lush green state; there’s room to move but the people are among India’s friendliest, with a charming manner that’s unobtrusive and slightly shy. Plunging mountain valleys are lushly forested, interspersed with rice terraces and flowering rhododendrons. Tibetan-style Buddhist monasteries (gompas) add splashes of white, gold and vermilion to the green ridges and are approached through avenues of fluttering prayer flags. Sikkim’s big-ticket item is the majesty of Khangchendzonga (Kanchenjunga; 8598m), the world’s third-highest mountain, straddling the border between Sikkim and Nepal. Khangchendzonga’s guardian spirit is worshipped in a series of spectacular autumn festivals and its magnificent white peaks and ridges create the backdrop to a dozen wonderful walks and viewpoints.

When to Go Gangtok °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

16/400 0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4

Best Monasteries » Tashiding Gompa (p549)

» Pemayangtse Gompa (p545)

» Labrang Gompa (p538)

Late Sep– mid-Nov Clearest weather for views, but high-season crowds and prices.

Apr–May Spring blooms and warmth make up for cloudier skies.

Mid-Jun–Sep Good for northern Sikkim but monsoon rains hide mountain views elsewhere.

Food & Drink Sikkim’s one ‘don’t-miss’ beverage is tongba, an alcoholic millet beer that is enjoyed across the entire eastern Himalaya. The beer (also known as chhang) is sipped through a bamboo straw and the wooden container (the tongba) is topped up periodically with boiling water to let the brew gain strength. You can find tongba anywhere in northern and western Sikkim. Traditional Sikkimese foods include sisnoo/sochhya (nettle soup), ningro (fried fiddlehead ferns), Tibetan-style churpi (dried yak cheese) and the Nepali speciality gundruk ko jhol (fermented mustard-leaf soup).

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY If entering Sikkim via Rangpo, permits are available at the border. For entry via Jorethang permits must be arranged in advance.

Fast Facts » Population: 607,700

DON’T MISS Sikkim’s monastic chaam masked dances are the Himalaya at their most colourful. Part morality play, part country fair and part exorcism, the dances feature masked monks acting out Buddhist parables, stories from the life of Guru Rinpoche and dances representing the victory of good over evil, with a supporting crew of clowns, demons and dancing snowlions, all entertaining a crowd of spellbound locals dressed in their Sunday best. It’s worth arranging your itinerary around.

Top State Festivals » Losar (Feb/Mar, Pemayangtse, p545, Rumtek, p536, Enchey, p530) Sikkim’s biggest chaam (monastic masked dances) take place just before Tibetan New Year.

» Bumchu (Feb/Mar, Tashiding Gompa, p549) Bum means pot or vase and chu means water. The lamas open a pot of holy water to foretell the year’s fortunes. » Saga Dawa (May/Jun, all monastery towns) Religious ceremonies and parades commemorate Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and death.

» Pang Lhabsol (Aug, Ravangla, p542) Prayers and religious dances are performed in honour of Sikkim’s guardian deity Khangchendzonga. » Losoong (Dec/Jan, Old Rumtek, p536) Sikkimese New Year, preceded by chaam dances in many locations including Lingdum, Phodong, Phensang and Ralang. » Detor Chaam (Dec/Jan, Enchey Gompa, p530) Chaam dances.

» Area: 7096 sq km » Capital: Gangtok

» Main language: Nepali

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹700, $$ ₹700 to ₹3000, $$$ above ₹3000

Top Tip Shared jeeps are the best way to get around the hills. To avoid getting landed with a cramped sideways-facing back seat, book a seat in advance; and if you really value your personal space, book all the front seats for yourself.

Resources » Cultural Affairs & Heritage Department (www.sikkim-culture.gov.in) offers cultural background. » Government of Sikkim Tourism (www.sikkim tourism.travel) lists sights, homestays and entry formalities. » Sikkiminfo (www.sikkim info.net) provides an excellent introduction.

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20 km 10 miles

Kangra-La Chomoyummo (6829m)

Kabur (4810m)

Garakhet

Gomathang

Dzongri Phedang Tsokha Ri Ra Baktim

Narsing (5825m)

Phamrong Falls

Phimkaru-La Lachen

Lachung

Chumbi

Mt Katao

Tolung (2488m)

Chumbi Valley

Chungthang

Linzey

Dikchu

Singhik Mangan Seven 31A

Labrang

Sisters Falls

Border Crossing for Indian Citizens Only

Phensang Kyongosla Phodong Alpine Hanuman Tashi Sanctuary Viewpoint Tok Tsomgo Lingdum

Yuksom

Singali

Singalila La

gee

TIBET

Nathu La Jelep La Yuksom Maenam Hillside Gangtok (Changu) Kupup Hill (3150m) Ranga Trail Lake Tashiding Ralang Ranipul ge Ranipul River Rumtek a n Border Pelling Tikjuk R 31A Crossing Uttarey Lungthung Ravangla Sang Geyzing Not Permitted Pakyong Legship Damthang Dentam Singtam Rinchenpong Tendong Rongli Reshi (2589m) Manglai Rangpo BHUTAN Samdruptse Solophuk Soreng Namchi Melli Jorethang Kalimpong Sombare (Naya Bazaar) Melli Bazaar Teesta Bazaar WEST BENGAL To Darjeeling To Siliguri (20km) (45km)

ve n r Dhor Khecheopalri Lake Chewabhanjang

Ran

Gora-La

CHINA

Yumthang

r ve

Thangsing Kokchurong

Yumthang Valley

Jemathang

Yume Samdong

r ve

Goecha La Pandim (6691m)

Chaunrikhiang

Thanggu

Lookout

Pauhunri (7125m)

Kangchengyao Tsopta (6889m)

Khangchendzonga National Park

Khangchendzonga (8598m) Khangchendzonga

Kabru (7338m)

Tsopta Valley

ta es Te

Siniolchu (5780m)

NEPAL

Zemu Glacier

Green Lake

Nepal Peak (6910m)

Teesta River

SIKKIM

Si k kim

Khang La

Gurudongmar Lake

TIBET

Kora Kang (6601m)

Yumt hang

ὄὄ ὄὄὄ

CHINA

Sikkim Highlights 1 Wonder at the spectacular scenery of the Sikkim Himalaya on a 4WD trip to the Yumthang Valley (p539) 2 Be enthralled by a colourful

chaam (masked monk dance) at Rumtek gompa (p536)

3 Take in dawn Khangchendzonga views in Pelling (p543), visit Pemayangtse

Gompa (p545), then help out the local schoolkids by eating banana cake

4 Wander among the prayer flags, mantras and ancient chortens (stupas) of Tashiding Gompa (p548) 5 Hike the scenic hillside trail (p547) from Yuksom to Tashiding

6 Stare open-mouthed

at one of Sikkim’s gigantic religious statues, in Namchi (p540) or Ravangla (p542)

7 Overnight at peaceful Khecheopalri Lake (p545) before hiking up to a nearby meditation cave

History

Activities

Sikkim oﬀers considerable trekking potential. Day hikes between villages follow centuries-old footpaths and normally don’t require permits: the most popular option is between Yuksom and Tashiding. For multiday treks that head into the high Himalaya, notably to Goecha La at the base of Khangchendzonga (p548), you need to book through a trekking agency to arrange permits and guides.

Tour agencies are striving to open new trekking areas, notably the fabulous route across Zemu Glacier to Green Lake in Khangchendzonga National Park. However, permits remain very expensive and take months to arrange from Delhi, while tempting routes close to the Tibetan border remain oﬀ-limits.

8 Permits

STANDARD PERMITS Foreigners require an

Inner Line Permit to enter Sikkim (Indians don’t). These are free and a mere formality, although to apply you’ll need photos and passport photocopies. Permits are most easily obtainable at Darjeeling or the Rangpo border post on arrival but can also be obtained at Indian embassies abroad when getting your visa and the following places: Foreigners’ Regional Registration Offices (FRRO) Delhi (Map p78; % 011-26195530; frrodelhi@hotmail.com; Level 2, East Block 8, Sector 1, Rama Krishna (RK) Puram; h9.30am5.30pm Mon-Fri); Kolkata (Map p 450; % 22837034; 237 AJC Bose Rd; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri); Mumbai (Map p730; %22620446; Annexe Bldg No 2, CID, Badaruddin Tyabji Rd, near Special Branch) Or other major branches. Sikkim House Delhi (%11-26883026; 12-14 Panchsheel Marg, Chankyapuri, Delhi); Kolkata (Map p 450; %22817905; 4/1 Middleton St; h10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pm Sat) Sikkim Tourist Office Darjeeling (% 9832438118; Nehru Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat); Siliguri, West Bengal (SNT Terminal, Hill Cart Rd; h10am-5pm) For an on-the-spot Sikkim permit bring a photocopy of your passport and Indian visa, plus one photo. EXTENSIONS Permits are generally valid for 30 days (sometimes 15 days from embassies abroad). One or two days before expiry they can be extended for a further 30 days, giving a maximum of 60 days. For the extension try these: » Gangtok Foreigners’ Registration Oﬃce (p535) » Tikjuk District Administration Centre, Superintendent of Police, (p543), 5km below Pelling.

BLOODY LEECHES Sikkim is generally a very safe place; the only annoyance is the famous little leeches. They aren’t dangerous, just a nuisance, primarily during the summer monsoon (June to September). They’re ubiquitous in damp grass so stick to dry, wide paths.

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SIKKIM

Lepchas, the ‘original’ Sikkimese people, migrated here from Assam or Myanmar (Burma) in the 13th century, followed by Bhutias (people of Tibetan origin) who fled from religious strife in Tibet during the 15th century. The Nyingmapa form of Vajrayana (Tibetan) Buddhism arrived with three refugee Tibetan lamas who encountered each other at the site of modern-day Yuksom. Here in 1641 they crowned Phuntsog Namgyal as first chogyal (king) of Sikkim. The capital later moved to Rabdentse (near Pelling), then to Tumlong (Phodong) before finally settling in Gangtok following a Nepali invasion. At their most powerful the chogyals’ rule encompassed eastern Nepal, upper Bengal and Darjeeling. However, much territory was later lost during wars with Bhutan and Nepal, and throughout the 19th century large numbers of Hindu Nepali migrants arrived, eventually coming to form a majority of Sikkim’s population. In 1835 the British bribed Sikkim’s chogyal to cede Darjeeling to the East India Company. Tibet, which regarded Sikkim as a vassal state, raised strong objections. In 1849, amid rising tensions, the British annexed the entire area between the present Sikkim border and the Ganges plains, repulsing a counterinvasion by Tibet in 1886. In 1903–04, Britain’s ultimate imperial adventurer Francis Younghusband twice trekked up to the Sikkim–Tibet border. There, with a small contingent of soldiers, he set about inciting a fracas that would ‘justify’ an invasion of Tibet. Sikkim’s last chogyal ruled from 1963 to 1975, when the Indian government deposed him after a revolt by Sikkim’s Nepali population. China didn’t recognise India’s claim to Sikkim until 2005 so prior to this, to bolster pro-Delhi sentiment, the Indian government made Sikkim a tax-free zone, pouring crores (tens of millions) of rupees into roadbuilding, electricity, water supplies and local industry. As a result Sikkim is surprisingly aﬄuent by Himalayan standards.

530

Once you leave Sikkim, you must wait three months before applying for another permit. PERMIT VALIDITY The standard permit is valid for visits to the following areas: » Gangtok, Rumtek and Lingdum » South Sikkim

SIKKIM E A S T S I K K I M

» anywhere on the Gangtok–Singhik road » most of West Sikkim to which paved roads extend. SPECIAL PERMITS High-altitude treks, including the main Goecha La and Singalila Ridge routes, require trekking permits valid for up to 15 days and organised by trekking agents. For travel beyond Singhik up the Lachung and Lachen valleys foreigners need additional restricted area permits from the tourism department and police and, even with these, cannot go further than the Tsopta valley or Yume Samdong (Zero Point). Indian citizens need a police permit to travel north of Singhik, but can travel further up the Thangu valley to Gurudongmar Lake. Foreigners also need a restricted area permit to visit Tsomgo (Changu) Lake. Indians only (no foreigners) are permitted to travel east past Tsomgo Lake to the Tibetan border at Nathu La. Restricted area permits are issued locally through approved tour agencies and you will have to join a tour to get one. You’ll need a minimum group of two, a passport photo, and copies of your existing permit, visa and passport details page. Permits take 24 hours to arrange and last for a maximum of five days.

EAST SIKKIM Gangtok % 03592 / POP 31,100 / ELEV 1400-1700M

Sikkim’s capital is mostly a functional sprawl of multistorey concrete boxes. But, true to its name (meaning ‘hill top’), these are steeply tiered along a precipitous mountain ridge. When clouds clear, typically at dawn, views are inspiring with Khangchendzonga soaring above the western horizon. While Gangtok’s manmade attractions are minor, it’s a reasonable place to spend a day or two organising a trek or trips to the north. Gangtok’s crooked spine is the Rangpo– Mangan road, National Hwy 31A, cryptically referred to as 31ANHWay. The tourist oﬃce, banks and many shops line the central pedestrianised Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Marg.

1 Sights

Namgyal Institute of Tibetology & MUSEUM, VIEWPOINT Around (%281642; www.tibetology.net; Deorali; admission ₹10; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd Sat of month) Housed in traditionally styled

Tibetan architecture, this unique institute was established in 1958 to promote research into Vajrayana Buddhism and Tibetan culture. The museum hall displays Buddhist manuscripts, icons, thangkas (Tibetan religious paintings) and Tantric ritual objects, such as a thöpa (bowl made from a human skull) and kangling (human thighbone trumpet). There are plenty of useful explanatory captions. Further along the same road is the DoDrul Chorten, a large white Tibetan pagoda surrounded by dormitories for novice monks. The institute sits in a park and is conveniently close to the lower station of Damovar Ropeway (per person adult/child return ₹60/35; h9.30am-4.30pm), a cable car run-

ning from Secretariat ridge. The views are stupendous, if you can bear to look down. Ridge

PARK

With views east and west, it’s very pleasant to stroll through shady parks and gardens on the city’s central ridge. Its focal point the Raj Bhawan (the former Royal Palace) is closed to visitors, though the impressive Tsuglhakhang temple is often open early in the morning (and during major festivals) to pilgrims and curious tourists. During the spring bloom (March and April) it’s worth peeping inside the Flower

Exhibition Centre (admission ₹10; h9am5pm), a modestly sized greenhouse full of

exotic orchids, anthuriums and lilium.

Enchey Gompa MONASTERY (h4am-4pm Mon-Sat, 4am-1pm Sun) Approached

through gently rustling conifers high above Gangtok, this monastery dating back to 1909 is Gangtok’s most attractive, with some decent murals and statues of Tantric deities. The monastery founder was famous for his levitational skills. It comes alive for the colourful Detor Chaam masked dances in December/January (28th and 29th day of the 11th Tibetan lunar month). Ganesh Tok & Around

VIEWPOINTS

From Enchey Gompa the main road swings northeast around the obvious telecommunications tower to a collection of prayer flags, where a footpath scrambles up in around

Himalayan Zoological Park ZOO (%223191; admission ₹50, video ₹500; h9am-4pm)

Across the road from Ganesh Tok viewpoint, a lane leads into the zoo. Red pandas, Himalayan bears and snow leopards roam around in extensive wooded enclosures so large that you’ll value a car to shuttle between them.

T Tours Classic early morning ‘three-point tours’ show you Ganesh Tok, Hanuman Tok and Tashi viewpoints (₹500). Almost any travel agent, hotel or taxi driver oﬀers variants, including a ‘five-point tour’ adding Enchey Gompa and Namgyal Institute (₹700), or ‘seven-point tours’ tacking on old-and-new Rumtek (₹900) or Rumtek plus Lingdum (₹1200). Prices are per vehicle holding three or four passengers. For high-altitude treks, visits to Tsomgo Lake or tours to northern Sikkim you’ll need a tour agency. There are more than 180 agencies but only 10% of those work with foreigners; look for a company that belongs to Travel Agents Association of Sikkim (TAAS) as its members conform to ecologically and culturally responsible guidelines. Sikkim Tourism SCENIC FLIGHTS Development Corporation (STDC; %203960; stdcsikkim@yahoo.co.in; MG Marg) For eagle-eye mountain views, STDC

books scenic helicopter flights. Prices are for

FURTHER THAN IT LOOKS Sikkim is tiny, only approximately 80km from east to west and 100km north to south but, due to the seriously vertical terrain, it is slow to traverse. Your next destination, just across the valley, looks an hour’s drive away but will probably take closer to three or four.

up to five passengers (four for Khangchendzonga ridge): buzz over Gangtok (₹7590, 15 minutes); circuit of West Sikkim (₹66,000, 55 minutes); circuit of North Sikkim (₹78,500, 65 minutes); Khangchendzonga ridge (₹90,000, 75 minutes). Book at least three days ahead. Blue Sky Treks & Travels TREKKING (%205113; www.himalayantourismonline.com; Tourism Bldg, MG Marg) Trekking and tours. Ecotourism & Conservation HOMESTAYS Society of Sikkim (ECOSS; %232798; www.sikkimhomestay.com; Tadong/Daragaon) Can arrange homestays

(₹600 to ₹1500 per person) in Dzongu (permits required), Pastanga and Yuksom villages.

Galaxy Tours & Treks TREKKING (%201290; www.tourhimalayas.com; Metro Point)

Tours to North Sikkim and runs several hotels in the Lachung Valley.

Hub Outdoor OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES (%9434203848; www.gosikkim; Tibet Rd) Offers

mountain biking, trekking and even canyoning, with a decent outdoor gear shop.

Modern Treks & Tours TREKKING (%204670; www.modernresidency.com; Modern Central Lodge, MG Marg) Trekking and North

Sikkim tours.

Namgyal Treks & Tours OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES (%203701; www.namgyaltreks.com; Tibet Rd)

Trekking, mountaineering, mountain biking, tours to northern Sikkim. Also runs a homestay below Gangtok.

Potala Tours & Treks TREKKING (%200043; www.sikkimhimalayas.com; PS Rd)

Top end of the price range.

Sikkim Tours & Travels TREKKING, BIRDWATCHING (%202188; www.sikkimtours.com; Church Rd)

Specialises in trekking, birdwatching and botanical tours.

4 Sleeping Peak seasons for Gangtok accommodation are March to May and September to November, reaching a peak in October. Decent budget hotels are in short supply any time of year. Check rooms carefully as standards can vary widely even within the same hotel.

SHidden Forest

GUESTHOUSE $$

(%205197; www.hiddenforestretreat.org; Middle Sichey Busty; s/d ₹1800/2000) A wonderful,

friendly family-run hideaway on the edge of town, secluded on more than a hectare of fruit trees, orchid and flower nurseries. The

531

E AST SIKKIM SIKKIM TO G AU N RGTO STOKU R S

15 minutes to Ganesh Tok viewpoint. Festooned in colourful prayer flags, Ganesh Tok oﬀers superb city views and its minicafe serves hot teas. Hanuman Tok, another impressive viewpoint, sits on a hilltop around 4km drive beyond Ganesh Tok, though there are shortcuts for walkers. Gangtok’s best view of Khangchendzonga can be found from the Tashi viewpoint, 4km northwest of town, beside the main route to Phodong.

e # 00

Gangtok B

‚

› 33 #

To Rachna Bookshop (300m); Handicrafts & 1 Handlooms Emporium (600m); Tashi Viewpoint (5km); Ganesh Tok (10km)

)

Rd PS

# 10 ÿ

To Enchey Gompa (1km)

‚

To Hidden Forest (2km); Lingdum Gompa (17km)

Palijor Stadium 1

200 m 0.1 miles

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Gate #

To Damovar Ropeway Lower Station (1km); Namgyal Institute of Tibetology (1.5km); Deorali Jeep Stand (1.5km); Hotel Tashi Tagey (3km); ECOSS (3km); Rumtek (23km) A

No A

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# 30 î

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SIKKIM E A S T S I K K I M

# ˜

Pr ivate

532

14 rooms are nicely furnished with Tibetan motifs, polished wood floors and private balconies, and there’s fine terrace seating. The environmental credentials are also impressive: superb food comes from the solar-powered kitchen, a resident cow provides dairy

Upper Damovar Ropeway Station

¤ #

Damovar Ropeway

produce and all vegetable matter is composted. A taxi from the centre costs ₹80.

Mintokling Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$ (%204226; www.mintoklingsikkim.com; Bhanu Path; s/d from ₹1250/1650; i) Set within secluded

gardens far from the traﬃc noise, this lodge-

533

Gangtok æ Sights 1 Flower Exhibition Centre....................... D2 2 Tsuglhakhang ........................................ C5

ÿ Sleeping 9 Chumbi Residency ................................ C3 10 Hotel Nor-Khill ........................................B1 11 Hotel Pandim ......................................... C4 12 Hotel Sonam Delek................................ C2 13 Kanchen Residency............................... C2 14 Mintokling Guest House........................ C3 15 Modern Central Lodge .......................... B3 16 New Modern Central Lodge.................. C3 ú Eating 17 Bakers Cafe............................................ B4 18 Gangtalk ................................................. B3 19 Golden Pagoda ...................................... B4 20 Parivar Restaurant ................................ B4 21 Roll House .............................................. B3 Tangerine ........................................ (see 9)

like family home of a dozen rooms is a real oasis, featuring Sikkimese fabrics, timber ceilings and prayer flags in the garden. The restaurant serves seasonal Sikkimese specialities like nettle soup and fried fiddlehead fern. Hotel Pandim HOTEL $ (%9832080172; www.hotelpandim.com; Secretariat; s/d/tr from ₹500/650/950, deluxe s/d from ₹950/1250; W) Right on the top of the ridge,

this well-run guesthouse is perhaps the best at the upper end of the budget options. Topfloor deluxe rooms have the best views but the cheaper basement rooms are also clean and good value with TV and a small balcony. The top-floor restaurant is particularly nice, with great views, a fine terrace and traditional meals if ordered in advance. Barking dogs can be a problem at night. Hotel Tashi Tagey HOTEL $$ (%231631; www.tashitagey.com; 31ANHWay, Tadong; d ₹850-1650; i) For Tibetan hospital-

ity at its best it’s worth seeking out this

û Drinking Hotel Nor-Khill ...............................(see 10) 23 Indulge ....................................................B3 24 Tashi Delek Hotel ...................................B5 ý Entertainment 25 Café Live and Loud.................................C3 þ Shopping 26 Golden Tips.............................................B5 27 Khangchendzonga Market ....................A5 Information 28 Foreigners' Registration Office ....................................................B5 29 Sikkim Tourist Information Centre ..................................................B3 30 STNM Hospital .......................................C2 Transport 31 Lal Bazzar Taxi Stand ............................A5 Railway Booking Counter ............ (see 33) 32 Shared Taxis to Tadong.........................B5 Sikkim Tourism Development Corporation ............................... (see 29) 33 SNT Bus Station..................................... C1 34 Southwest Jeep Stand...........................B3 35 Taxi Stand............................................... C1

super-friendly place, 3km below Gangtok. There’s a wide range of spotless rooms, great views from the rooftop bonsai garden and the Tibetan food is some of the best you’ll ever taste (ask Nyima to make her excellent cottage cheese with tomato and basil). The main drawback is the heavy road noise, so get a room at the back. The location appears inconvenient but frequent shared taxis (₹15) shuttle between the hotel and Gangtok. Hotel Nor-Khill HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%205637; www.elginhotels.com; PS Rd; s/d incl full board ₹6900/7200; W) Oozing 1930s elegance,

this sumptuous ‘house of jewels’ was originally the King of Sikkim’s royal guesthouse. Historical photos, antique furniture and Tibetan carpets line the hallways and lobby, giving the latter a Victorian feel. The spaciously luxurious rooms attract film stars and Dalai Lamas.

New Modern Central Lodge HOTEL $ (%201361; Tibet Rd; dm ₹100, d ₹300-400, s without bathroom ₹150) A backpacker’s favourite for so

E AST SIKKIM E SIKKIM S LAENEGTO G PSI NL K GE P I N G

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 3 Blue Sky Treks & Travels ...................... B3 4 Galaxy Tours & Treks ............................ B3 5 Hub Outdoor .......................................... C2 Modern Treks & Tours ................. (see 15) 6 Namgyal Treks & Tours ........................ C3 7 Potala Tours & Treks............................. C2 8 Sikkim Tours & Travels ......................... A3

22 Taste of Tibet .........................................B4

534

long that people still come here despite somewhat dreary rooms (front-facing rooms are easily the best). With plenty of cheap options and a friendly ground-floor restaurant and budget tour agency, it will probably remain a shoestring standby. Most rooms have a toilet but only a few have hot-water showers.

SIKKIM E A S T S I K K I M

Modern Central Lodge GUESTHOUSE $ (%221081; info@modern-hospitality.com; 31ANHWay; d ₹500-700, tr ₹600) More rupees buy you

a slightly larger room right on the main junction by MG Marg. There’s good home-cooked food on the roof garden if you book ahead. Hotel Sonam Delek HOTEL $$ (%202566; www.hotelsonamdelek.com; Tibet Rd; d ₹1000-3000) This is a longstanding favou-

rite oﬀering good service, reliable food and a great back terrace with views over the valley. The best-value super-deluxe rooms (₹2000) come with soft mattresses and decent views. Bigger suite rooms (₹3000) have better views and balconies, but the standard rooms are a very noticeable step down – in the basement.

Chumbi Residency HOTEL $$$ (%206618; www.thechumbiresidency.com; Tibet Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹2600/3400; W) This

central three-star hotel has comfortable but smallish rooms with fresh white walls, good furniture and tea-and-coﬀee-making equipment. There’s little diﬀerence between the two grades of rooms but make sure you get a view. The cool basement Tangerine barrestaurant is recommended.

Kanchen Residency HOTEL (%9732072614; kanchenresidency@indiatimes.com; Tibet Rd; d back/side/front ₹600/900/1000) Above the dismal (unre-

Golden Pagoda INDIAN $ (MG Marg; mains ₹50-105) The rooftop of the

hotel of the same name doesn’t look like the location of some of the best Indian food in town but the views, service and food are all top-notch. Specialties include the Lucknow chaat (savoury snacks), Rajasthani and Gujarati thalis, and superb mixed raita (flavoured yoghurt).

Gangtalk CONTINENTAL $$ (MG Marg; mains ₹140-270, set lunch ₹149-199)

Fresh and modern is the vibe here, with a collection of retro album covers on the walls and a wide range of comfort food from burgers to bangers and mash. It’s also probably the only place you’ll ever see fish momos on the menu. Grab a seat on the fine terrace overlooking interesting MG Marg.

Tangerine SIKKIMESE $$ (Ground fl, Chumbi Residency, Tibet Rd; mains ₹130180) Descend five floors for sublime cuisine,

tasty Western snacks or cocktails in the brilliant Japanese-style floor-cushioned bar area. Try the stuﬀed-tomato curry or sample Sikkimese specialities like sochhya (nettle stew). The stylishly relaxed decor adds a real splash of glam. Parivar Restaurant SOUTH INDIAN $ (MG Marg; dishes ₹60-110) Eat here for good-

value South Indian vegetarian food; try the various masala dosas for breakfast, the choley paneer (chickpeas with cottage cheese) or the all-inclusive mini/full thali for ₹90/150. Bakers Cafe BAKERY (MG Marg; pastries from ₹12, mains ₹75-150; h8am-8pm) The perfect breakfast escape,

lated) Hotel Prince, this airy discovery is spacious, light and well run. Upper front rooms have good views.

this cosy Western-style cafe has strong coffee (₹40), croissants, tempting cakes, paninis and pizzas, though the service can be glacial.

5 Eating

Roll House SNACK BAR $ (MG Marg; rolls ₹15-30; h8am-8pm) In an alley

Most budget hotels have cheap cafe-restaurants serving standard Chinese/Tibetan dishes, basic Indian meals and Western breakfasts.

oTaste of Tibet

TIBETAN $

(MG Marg; mains ₹40-80) You’ll have to grab

a seat early in this bustling upstairs familyrun place, and even then you’ll likely have to share a table with Tibetan students or maroon-robed monks. The momos (Tibetan dumplings) are simply the best in town, or try a shyabhale (fried meat pasty).

just off MG Marg this hole-in-the-wall serves delicious Kolkata-style kati rolls, a kind of Indian enchilada.

Drinking & Entertainment

Two of the nicest locations for a quiet drink are the large terrace of the Tashi Delek Hotel (MG Marg) or the bar and garden of the Hotel Nor-Khil. Cafe Live & Loud BAR, LIVE MUSIC (www.thriceasmuch.com; h8.30am-11pm; W) One

of the northeast’s main live music venues,

this cool lounge-bar hosts live rock and blues bands every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings. There’s a full bar and food menu, with some unusual Southeast Asian oﬀerings (mains ₹110 to ₹170), and a pleasant cafeterrace if you need a bit of peace and quiet. The bathrooms are the cleanest in Sikkim.

Big windows overlooking MG Marg add to the cool of this modern bar-restaurant, even if the blue-and-red walkway lights do feel a bit like the entrance to a Disney ride. The bar food stretches to pizza and steaks (mains ₹60 to ₹220). If you’re lucky there’ll be a game on the big-screen TV, if you’re unlucky the karaoke will kick in.

Shopping

Several souvenir shops on MG Marg and PS Rd sell Tibetan and Sikkimese handicrafts like wooden tongba (Himalayan millet beer) pots, prayer flags and Nepali-style kukri knives. Sikkim’s tax-free status means that booze is big business. A few local liquors are available in novelty souvenir containers. Opening a 1L monk-shaped bottle of Old Monk Rum (₹220) means screwing oﬀ the monk’s head! Fireball brandy comes in a bowling-ballstyle red sphere. Khangchendzonga Market

FOOD & DRINK

This covered market is interesting for its range of traditional Himalayan produce, including churpi (dried cheese on a string), cow skin snacks, Tibetan tsampa (ground roasted barley), dried phing noodles and circular yeast patties used for brewing chhang (millet beer). Handicrafts & Handloom HANDICRAFTS Emporium (Zero Point; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, daily Jul-Mar)

This government initiative teaches traditional crafts to local students and markets their products – including toy red pandas, 1m by 2m hand-woven carpets (₹5500), Tibetan furniture, handmade paper and traditional Sikkimese-style dresses (₹1000 to ₹1600). Golden Tips FOOD & DRINK (www.goldentipstea.in; Kazi Rd; h9am-9pm)

Buy or taste at this inviting tea showroom with a wide selection of blends, including Sikkimese tea from Temi. Also sells tea by the cup (₹30).

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Gangtok’s best-stocked and most convivial bookshop also has occasional film and music events on the upstairs terrace.

8 Information

Many ATMS line MG Marg. Axis Bank (MG Marg; h9.30am-3.30pm MonFri, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat) Changes cash and travellers cheques and has an ATM. Stock up with rupees in Gangtok: exchange is virtually impossible elsewhere in Sikkim. Cyber Cafe (MG Marg; per hr ₹30; h9am9pm) Internet access; the entrance is opposite Roll House. Foreigners’ Registration Office (Kazi Rd; h10am-4pm, 10am-noon public hols) In the lane beside Indian Overseas Bank, for permit extensions. Main post office (PS Rd, Gangtok; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun for stamps) Police station (%202033; 31ANHWay) STNM hospital (%222059; 31ANHWay) Sikkim Tourist Information Centre (%toll free 204408; www.sikkimtourism.travel; MG Marg; h8am-8pm) Offers general advice. Open 10am to 4pm outside peak seasons. For specific queries regarding trekking and permit-area travel, deal with a travel agent.

8 Getting There & Away

Air The nearest airport to Sikkim is Bagdogra (p 483), 124km from Gangtok, near Siliguri in West Bengal, which has flights to Kolkata, Delhi and Guwahati. Helicopters shuttle from Gangtok to Bagdogra (₹2200, 35 minutes), departing at 11am and returning at 2.30pm, but services are cancelled in adverse weather. There’s a strict maximum 10kg baggage allowance. Sikkim Tourism Development Corporation (%203960; MG Marg) sells the tickets for this and scenic flights. Fixed-price Maruti vans/sumos (jeeps) go directly to Bagdogra (₹1500/1700, 4½ hours). You’ll get the best rates from returning vehicles, so look for West Bengal (WB) number plates. Sikkim’s first airport is planned at Pakyong, 35km from Gangtok, with a tentative completion date of 2012. Bus Buses run from the government SNT bus station (PS Rd) at 7am to Jorethang (₹80), Kalimpong (₹80) and Namchi (₹80), at 1.15pm to Pelling (₹122) and hourly to Siliguri (₹115 to ₹220, 6am to 1pm). In general you are better oﬀ taking the faster and more frequent shared jeeps.

E AST SIKKIM SIKKIM SH G AO NP GTO PSIHNKOGP P I N G

Indulge BAR (www.thriceasmuch.com; Tibet Rd; h11am-11pm)

Rachna Bookshop BOOKSTORE (www.rachnabooks.com; Development Area)

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SIKKIM E A S T S I K K I M

Shared Jeeps Some jeep departures are fixed, others leave when all the seats are filled. Departures usually start at 6.30am for the more distant destinations and continue up to about 2pm. From the hectic but relatively well-organised Deorali jeep stand (31ANHWay), 1.5km below Gangtok, shared jeeps depart every 30 minutes or so to Darjeeling (₹140, five hours), Kalimpong (₹150, three hours) and Siliguri (₹140, four hours), some continuing to New Jalpaiguri train station. There are daily jeeps to Kakarbhitta (₹180, four hours, 6.30am) on the Nepalese border and Jaigaon (₹250, four hours, 8am) on the Bhutanese border. Buses to Siliguri (₹100) also run from here. Purchase tickets in advance. The stand is hidden in the alleys below the lower ropeway station. West Sikkim vehicles depart from Southwest jeep stand (Church Rd) for Geyzing (₹140, 4½ hours, four daily), Ravangla (₹90, three hours, four daily), Namchi (₹110, three hours, every halfhour) and Jorethang (₹110, three hours, hourly). Jeeps for Yuksom, Tashiding and Pelling (₹150 to ₹180, five hours) depart around 7am and possibly again around 12.30pm. For independent travel, small groups can charter a vehicle. Train The nearest major train station is over 120km away at New Jalpaiguri (NJP). There’s a computerised railway booking counter (h8am-2pm Mon-Sat, 8am-11am Sun & public hols) at the SNT bus station.

8 Getting Around

There’s a taxi stand in Lal Bazaar opposite the Denzong Cinema, and another in PS Rd just north of the post oﬃce. Shared taxis to Tadong (₹15, every 10 minutes) depart from just under the pedestrian bridge on the National Hwy.

Around Gangtok Rumtek and Lingdum gompas make for a great day trip from Gangtok. Viewing the temples takes less than an hour each, but the winding country lanes that link them is a big part of the attraction, curving through mossy forests high above river valleys and artistically terraced rice slopes. RUMTEK

% 03592 / ELEV 1690M

Facing Gangtok distantly across a vast green valley, Rumtek village is entirely dominated by its extensive gompa complex. Spiritually the monastery is hugely significant as the home in exile of Buddhism’s Kagyu (Black Hat) sect. Visually it is not Sikkim’s most

spectacular sight and during high season it can get quite crowded. To experience Rumtek at its most serene, stay the night and hike around the delightful nearby hilltops at dawn.

1 Sights

Rumtek Gompa MONASTERY (%252329; www.rumtek.org) This rambling

and walled complex is a village within a village, containing religious buildings, schools and several small lodge-hotels. To enter, foreigners must show both passport and Sikkim permit. Unusually for a monastery, this place is guarded by armed police, as there have been violent altercations, and even an invasion, by monks who dispute the Karmapa’s accession. The main monastery building (admission ₹10; h6am-6pm) was constructed between 1961 and 1966 to replace Tsurphu Monastery in Tibet, which had been partially destroyed during China’s Cultural Revolution (there’s a mural of the original monastery beside the metal detector). The giant throne within awaits the crowning of Kagyu’s current spiritual leader, the (disputed) 17th Karmapa. Exit to the side and take the rear stairs past a snack shop (good tea and momos) up to the Golden Stupa (h6-11.45am & noon5pm). The smallish room holds the ashes of the important 16th Karmapa in an amber, coral and turquoise-studded reliquary to which pilgrims pay their deepest respects. If locked, someone from the colourful Karma Shri Nalanda Institute of Buddhist Studies opposite can usually open it for you. Rumtek holds impressive masked chaam dances during the annual Drupchen (group meditation) in May/June, and two days before Losar (Tibetan New Year) when you might also catch traditional lhamo (Tibetan opera) performances. Old Rumtek Gompa

MONASTERY

About 1.5km beyond the gompa towards Sang, a long avenue of white prayer flags and flowers leads photogenically down to the powder-blue Old Rumtek Gompa. Despite the name, the main prayer hall has been thoroughly renovated. The interior is a riotous festival of colour and the lonely location is idyllic with some wonderful westfacing views. Two days before Losoong (Sikkimese New Year), Old Rumtek holds the celebrated Kagyed Chaam dance. Lingdum Gompa MONASTERY (www.zurmangkagyud.org) Only completed in

1998, peaceful Lingdum Gompa is visually

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THE KARMAPA CONTROVERSY

more exciting than Rumtek. Its structure grows out of the forest in grand layers, with pleasant side gardens and a photogenic chorten. The extensively muralled main prayer hall enshrines huge statues of Sakyamuni (historic) Buddha, Guru Rinpoche and the 16th Karmapa. Sonorous chanting at the 7.30am and 3.30pm puja (prayers/oﬀerings) adds to the magical atmosphere. There’s a nice outdoor cafe by the entrance and an interesting souvenir shop selling Buddhist accessories and Tibetan cloth.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Sungay Guesthouse HOTEL $ (%252221; r ₹250-600) The friendly Tibetan

management make this a great alternative to rushing back to Gangtok. Rooms are comfortable and good value, with hot-water bathrooms, and many come with balconies. It’s just inside Rumtek’s main entrance gate.

Bamboo Retreat ECO RESORT $$ (%252516; www.bambooretreat.in; Sajong; s/d incl breakfast & dinner from ₹3300/3900; W) This

Swiss-run rural resort just below Rumtek is a destination in its own right. There’s plenty to keep you busy, with mountain bikes for hire and guided hikes, or just relax with a herbal bath and massage. The 12 colourful rooms are all uniquely decorated. Culinary highlights include an authentic Italian pizza oven and Sikkimese food grown in the organic garden. Sangay Hotel GUESTHOUSE (%252238; d ₹350, s/d without bathroom ₹150/250,) A simple but decent budget

option just below Rumtek.

8 Getting There & Away

Rumtek is 26km (1½ hours) from Gangtok by a winding but scenic road. Lingdum Gompa is a 2km walk from Ranga or Ranka village, reached by rough backlanes from Gangtok. Shared jeeps run to Rumtek (₹30) every hour or so, with the last jeep returning to Gangtok between 2pm and 3pm. A return taxi costs around ₹600. Linking the two sites requires private transport (₹1000 to ₹1200).

Towards Tibet TSOMGO (CHANGU, TSANGU) LAKE ELEV 3780M

Pronounced Changu, this scenic high-altitude lake about three hours’ drive from Gangtok is a popular excursion for Indian visitors, but restricted area permits are required for foreign visitors. To get one, sign up for a tour by 2pm and most Gangtok agents can get the permit for next-day departure (two photos required). A budget tour will cost around ₹2600 to ₹3500 per vehicle or ₹500 per person if you can get a group together. At the lakeside, food stalls sell hot chai, chow mein and momos, while short yak rides potter along the shore. If you can muster the puﬀ, the main attraction is clambering up a nearby hilltop for inspiring views. NATHU LA

Indian citizens are permitted to continue 18km along the spectacular road from Tsomgo Lake to the 4130m Nathu La (Listening Ears Pass), whose border opened with much fanfare in 2006 but to local traﬃc only.

E AST SIKKIM SIKKIM 8 O WA R8D S T I B E T T

The ‘Black Hat’ sect is so named because of the priceless ruby-topped headgear used to crown the Karmapa (spiritual leader) during key ceremonies. Being woven from the hair of dakinis (angels), the hat must be kept locked in a box to prevent it from flying back to the heavens. Or at least that’s the official line. Nobody has actually seen the hat since 1993, after the death of the 16th Karmapa. Since then the Kagyu school has been embroiled in a bitter controversy between two rival candidates. The main candidate, Ogyen Trinley Dorje (www.kagyuoffice.org), fled Tibet in 2000 but currently remains based at Dharamsala: Indian authorities are believed to have prevented him from officially taking up his Rumtek seat for fear of upsetting Chinese government sensibilities. The rival candidate, Thaye Dorje (www.karmapa.org), lives in nearby Kalimpong in West Bengal. Supporters of the two are locked in a legal dispute over who can control Rumtek. To learn more about the controversy, read The Dance of 17 Lives by Mick Brown. Only when the dispute is resolved and the 17th Karmapa is finally crowned will anyone dare to unlock the box and check whether the sacred black hat is actually still there.

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A few kilometres southeast of Nathu La,

Jelep La was the pass used by Francis Youn-

ghusband in the British Great Game-era attack on Tibet (1903-04). Until 1962 Jelep La was the main trade route between Kalimpong and Lhasa, but it shows no signs of reopening.

SIKKIM N O R T H S I K K I M

NORTH SIKKIM % 03592

The biggest attractions in North Sikkim are the idyllic Yumthang and Tsopta Valleys. Reaching them and anywhere north of Singhik requires a special permit (p530), which is easy to obtain if you sign up for a tour. It’s possible to visit Phodong and Mangan/Singhik independently using public jeeps but they can also be conveniently seen during brief stops on any Yumthang tour and at no extra cost. The Yumthang and Tsopta Valleys are very cold by October and become really fingertip numbing between December and February.

Gangtok to Singhik The narrow but mostly well-paved 31ANHWay clings to steep wooded slopes above the Teesta River, occasionally descending in long coils of hairpins to a bridge photogenically draped in prayer flags, only to coil right back up again on the other side. If driving, consider brief stops at Tashi Viewpoint (p531), Kabi Lunchok, Phensang and the Seven Sisters waterfall. Kabi Lunchok, an atmospheric glade 17km north of Gangtok, decorated with memorial stones, is the site of a 13th-century peace treaty between the chiefs of the Lepcha and Bhutia peoples. They swore a blood brotherhood until the River Rangit ran dry and Khangchendzonga ceased to exist. The small 290-year-old Nyingmapaschool Phensang Gompa is further north, 1km oﬀ the main road. It has beautifully decorated lower and upper-floor prayer halls. It’s all recent, though, as the monastery was rebuilt after a 1957 fire. A Chaam festival is celebrated here on the 28th and 29th days of the Tibetan 10th month, usually December. Just over 30km north of Gangtok, Seven Sisters Waterfall, a multistage cascade, cuts a chasm above a roadside cardamom grove and plummets into a rocky pool. It’s fine spot for a photo and a welcome chai break.

TIPS

NORTH SIKKIM TOUR

» A group size of four or five people is ideal for sharing costs while not overfilling the jeep. » To find jeep-share partners, try asking around at the cafe at New Modern Central Lodge (p533) in Gangtok, around 6pm a few days before you plan to travel.

» Less than four days is too rushed to comfortably visit both Yumthang/Lachung and Lachen. Three days is enough to see just Yumthang. Three-night, fourday tours range from around ₹6500 to ₹8000 per person for groups of four, depending on accommodation and vehicle standards. A budget two-night, three-day tour starts around ₹4000 per person in a group of seven. » Leave Gangtok early on the first day: it’s a shame to arrive in the dark.

» Your (obligatory) ‘guide’ is actually more of a translator. Don’t assume he’ll stop at all potential points of interest without prodding. » Bring a torch (flashlight) and warm clothes.

The little strip of roadside restaurants at

Phodong (1815m) make it a popular lunch

stop. About 1km southeast, near the Km39 post, a 15-minute walk along a side road leads to the Phodong Gompa (established in 1740), belonging to the Kagyu sect. The beautiful two-storey prayer hall contains extensive murals and a large statue of the 9th Karmapa. A rear room contains a hidden statue of Mahakala, a protective deity of the monastery. Drive or walk on another 1.5km uphill to the much more atmospheric Labrang Gompa (established in 1884), home to 100 monks. The inner walls of the eight-sided main building are lined with over 1000 icons of Padmasambhava, while upstairs a fearsome statue of the guru sports a necklace of severed heads. Chaam dances take place at the end of December. Between the two monasteries, just below the road lie the 19th-century foundations of Tumlong, Sikkim’s third capital. The enigmatic palace ruins are worth a quick scramble.

North Sikkim’s district headquarters,

Mangan (Km67 post; ie 28km from Pho-

Sila Inn (%9474016226; d ₹1000) Family run

and friendly, with a mixed bag of rooms above a friendly hostel-restaurant. The best rooms are on the top floor.

Crown Villa (crownhotels@gmail.com) New re-

sort under construction at time of writing.

Beyond Singhik With relevant permits and an organised tour you can continue north beyond Singhik. At Chungthang, the next settlement, the road branches up the Lachung Chu and Lachen Chu valleys. If you only have time to visit one valley, the Lachung Chu has the most impressive scenery. Accommodation is available in Lachung and Lachen, with some basic options in Thanggu. We have listed a few favourites but your tour agency will normally preselect for you. Cheaper hotels tend to have a mixed bag of rooms with prices the same whether or not the room has geyser, shower, heating, window or balcony. Try to see a few diﬀerent rooms even if you can’t choose your hotel. LACHUNG

% 3592 / ELEV 2630M

Soaring rock-pinnacled valley walls embroidered with long ribbons of waterfall surround the scattered village of Lachung. To appreciate the full drama of its setting, take the metal cantilever bridge across the wild Yumthang River to the Sanchok side then climb 1.5km along the Katao road for great views from the Lachung (Sarchok) Gompa (established 1880). The gompa’s refined murals include one section of original paintings (inner left wall as you enter) and its twin giant prayer wheels chime periodically. Over a dozen hotels are dotted around Lachung. Many outwardly modern places maintain traditional Tibetan-style wood-fire kitchens that are a cosy place to linger over a butter tea or a tongba of chhang. Some of the better places: Modern Residency (Taagsing Retreat; %214888; www.modernresidency.com; Singring village; d ₹2500) Rooms are comfortable and

well decorated, though walk-in prices are steep. Even if you don’t stay, the gompastyle building 3km south of Lachung is worth visiting for its upper-floor minimuseum, library and bar. Staying here is one advantage of booking a tour with Modern Treks & Tours in Gangtok.

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place in town.

YUMTHANG VALLEY

The main reason to come to Lachung is to continue 23km further north to admire the majestic Yumthang Valley, which starts some 10km after leaving Lachung. This point is also the entry to the Singba Rhododendron Sanctuary, whose network of hiking trails oﬀers a welcome chance to get out of the jeep. From March to early May a host of primulas, 24 species of rhododendrons and other flora bursts into flower to carpet the valley floor. At the Km23 point there are a number of snack shacks that open up in the high season. Don’t bother with the hot springs, a grimy, 2-sq-metre pool in a rubbish-ringed hut on the other side of the river. As the valley widens and flattens, the scenery becomes 100% Himalayan, with jagged peaks, lush pasturage and bridges draped with colourful prayer flags. From Yumthang you can continue up switchbacks for 14km onto the snowy plateau of Yume Samdong (Zero Point) at a head-pounding 4640m, where a candelabra of jagged peaks rises towards Tibet. This is as far as you can go. The road starts to get blocked by snow from mid-October. LACHEN

POP 2000 / ELEV 2700M

The traditional mountain village of Lachen is changing fast with the construction of concrete tourist hotels. Nonetheless, alleyways remain sprinkled with old wooden homes on sturdy stone bases and decorated with colourful Tibetan-style window frames. Logs are stacked everywhere for winter fuel. Lachen (Nyudrup Choeling) Gompa is about 15 minutes’ walk above the town and is most likely to be open early morning or late afternoon. At the beginning of town, beside a giant cypress tree, is a huge mounted prayer wheel and a spooky collection of geometric threads designed to trap evil spirits. Lachen is the trailhead for eight-day expeditionary treks to Green Lake (5050m) along the yeti-infested Zemu Glacier

NORTH SIKKIM SIKKIM 8 E YO N D8S I N G H I K B

dong) proudly declares itself to be the ‘Large Cardamom Capital of the World’. Some 1.5km beyond, concrete stupas on a sharp bend mark a small footpath; a three-minute descent leads to a panoramic viewpoint and an excellent tea stop.

Mayfair Yarlam (%9434330030; www .yarlamresort.com; r from ₹8000) The top

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SIKKIM S O U T H S I K K I M

towards Khangchendzonga’s northeast face. These require long advance planning and very expensive permits. Most groups stay in either the Shangrila Residency, Bayul Inn or Twin Peak Lodge, with rooms from around ₹500 to ₹800. A step up is the Lachen View Point (%9434867312; r ₹1500-4000). Best of the bunch is the luxurious Apple Orchard Resort (www.theappleor chardresort.com; r ₹4830-6050), above the village next to the ani gompa (nunnery). The new Blue Pine Hotel at the entry to town looks as if it will have great views when finished. THANGGU & TSOPTA

Beyond a sprawling army camp 32km north of Lachen, Thanggu (3850m) has an end-ofthe-world feel. There are no phones (mobile or otherwise), the electricity is solar generated and the Chinese are only 15km away. Misleadingly named Thanggu Resort (d & tr ₹500; hMay-Nov) is a simple wooden house incorporating a traditional-styled kitchen and tongba-drinking den (tongba ₹20) that oﬀers a popular breakfast stop. There are couple of grubby rooms upstairs. A boulder-strewn stream leads on 2km to the Tsopta Valley. Just above the tree line, the scenery feels rather like Glencoe (Scotland), with the added drama of a glaciertoothed mountain wall framing the western horizon. A two-hour hike leads up to a pair of meditation caves, one of which was used for two years by the famous French traveller and mystic Alexandra David-Neel. Indian visitors can continue 30km north to spectacular Gurudongmar Lake (5150m), right on the border with Tibet, but the glacial lake is oﬀ-limits to foreigners.

SOUTH SIKKIM The main sights in South Sikkim are Namchi’s gigantic statues but there are plenty of other villages and viewpoints to explore here in little-visited villages like Rinchenpong, Uttarey and Hillay – for trip ideas see www. sikkimtourismuttarey.com. Ravangla falls administratively within South Sikkim, but we cover it in the Gangtok to Pelling section (West Sikkim), where it fits more logically.

Namchi % 03595 / ELEV 1525M

Few travellers would linger in Namchi were it not for the two huge statues, one Hindu,

the other Buddhist, that face each other across the town from opposite hillsides. There are several internet cafes in the central pedestrianised plaza, along with an Axis Bank, two ancient bodhi and pipal trees and, oddly, a piranha aquarium.

1 Sights

Samdruptse MONUMENT (Indian/foreigner ₹10/20; hdawn-dusk) Painted

in shimmering copper and bronze, the impressive 45m-high Padmasambhava statue dominates the forested Samdruptse ridge and is visible for miles around. Known as Guru Rinpoche in Tibetan, Padmasambhava was the 8th-century holy man, magician and Tantric master widely credited with introducing Tantric Buddhism across the Himalayan region. Completed in 2004 on a foundation stone laid by the Dalai Lama, the statue is starting to look a bit weathered but is still impressive atop its lotus plinth. The site is 7km from Namchi, 2km oﬀ the Damthang/Ravangla road. Taxis charge around ₹500 return. Alternatively, pay ₹300 for a one-way drop and walk back to Namchi, either by shortcutting down steps through the rock garden (admission ₹20) or, more interestingly, following the road down to Ngadak Gompa. A large new gompa is under construction at Ngadak, just uphill from a spooky Gönso Lhakhang (protector chapel) but of most interest is Ngadak’s ruined and neglected old dzong, dating back to 1717, which still exudes a sense of old Sikkim. Its unpainted stone exterior incorporates lovely carved door pillars and, upstairs, intriguing but decrepit fragments of painting remain on the peeling old cloth wallpaper. Bring a torch (flashlight). A cable-car style ropeway is currently under construction to link the statue with Namchi centre via the rock garden. Solophuk

MONUMENT

Even grander than the Samdruptse Guru is the massive 33m Shiva statue, currently being finalised on the memorably named Solophuk hilltop, 5km south of Namchi. A huge complex of guesthouses, temples and pagodas surround the statue, including replicas of the Chor Dam, India’s four sacred Hindu pilgrimage sites. Everything here is on an epic scale – even the prayer beads that Shiva holds in his hand are the size of cannonballs. A taxi here costs ₹500/300 for a return/one-way drop.

Not satisfied with two statues, the town is planning an equally epic statue of the goddess Devi on nearby Shakti Hill.

4 Sleeping & Eating

an excellent option. All the rooms are spotless and fresh, and most come with a balcony and great views. The family grows its own organic vegetables and oﬀers bird-watching walks in 2.4 hectares of private jungle. It’s 4km from town on the road to Solophuk.

oSeven Hills Resort

RESORT $$

(%9647783038; www.sevenhillsresort.com; Phalidara; d ₹2800-3200) If it’s peace and quiet you

want, head to this relaxing resort on a remote ridge, 7km northeast of Namchi. A dozen rustic but comfortable cottages with private balconies are dotted around gardens of passionfruit, bamboo and orchids, and the views are superb. Warm up on cold evenings with a glass of house-made rhododendron brandy.

Hotel Samdruptse HOTEL $$ (%264806; Jorethang Rd; d ₹600-1000) The

higher the room rate the better the Khangchendzonga views from this decent but slightly scruﬀy concrete place. The hotel is 300m west of the centre, along the road to Jorethang, and includes Namchi’s most pleasant restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹130). Hotel Zimkhang HOTEL $ (%263625; s/d ₹300/450) An acceptable bud-

get option in the main pedestrian plaza.

8 Getting There & Around

Share jeeps leave frequently when full to Jorethang (₹30, one hour) from near the Hotel Samdruptse; to Ravangla (₹40, one hour) and Gangtok (₹110, 3½ hours) from the northwest junction; and to Siliguri (₹120, three hours) from a stand at the southern end of the pedestrian mall. Services dry up around 3pm. Buses leave from the ground floor of the huge new transport complex on the east of town. There are one or two departures each morning to Jorethang (₹20), Ravangla (₹25) and Gangtok (₹80).

Jorethang (Naya Bazaar) % 03595 / ELEV 520M

This bustling but charmless transport hub between West Sikkim, Namchi and Darjeeling/Siliguri is just a place to change jeeps.

WEST SIKKIM Sikkim’s greatest tourist draw is simply staring at Khangchendzonga’s white-peaked magnificence from Pelling ridge. Most visitors then add excursions to nearby waterfalls and monasteries, plus perhaps a spot of walking. Some lovely hikes start from the charming village of Yuksom, which is also the trailhead for multiday group treks to Dzongri and Goecha La (group trekking permits required).

Ravangla (Rabongla) % 03595 / ELEV 2010M

Rapidly expanding Ravangla (Rabong) is spectacularly perched overlooking a wide sweep of western Sikkim, the gompas of Old Ralang, Tashiding, Pemayangtse and Sangachoeling all distantly visible against a horizon that’s sawtoothed with snow-capped peaks. The town has little aesthetic distinction, but is useful as a hub to visit the interesting surrounding sights. Joining the main highway is Main Bazaar, a concentration of shops, cheap hotels, the jeep stand and the Cyber Cafe (per hr ₹30; h8.15am-7pm).

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WEST SIKKIM GAYA SIKKIM JSO L EREEPTIS HNLAGENE& GP EI(NN AT I& N GEBAT A ZI N AG A R)

Dungmali Heritage Resort GUESTHOUSE $$ (%9434126992; rairashmi_27@yahoo.co.in; Solophuk Rd; s ₹500, d ₹900-1500, deluxe ₹25004000) This friendly family-run guesthouse is

If you get stuck here, the brightest, friendliest accommodation option remains the recently renovated Hotel Namgyal (%276852; d ₹450), on the main drag, 70m east of the bridge, just before the SNT bus station. Across the road beside the Darjeeling jeep stand is a helpful tourist office (h8am-4pm Mon-Sat Dec-Feb & Jun-Aug, 10am-8pm rest of yr). Jeep services are expected to move to a large new transport complex on the east end of town. Until then, shared jeeps leave regularly from next to the tourist oﬃce for Darjeeling (₹100, two hours). Jeeps for Gangtok (₹110, four hours), Geyzing (₹60, two hours), Namchi (₹40, one hour) and Siliguri (₹100, three hours) leave from a chaotic stand 100m east. For Nepal there’s a 7am jeep to Kakarbhitta (₹150, four hours). Buy tickets before boarding. Jeeps for Tashiding (₹70, two hours) and Yuksom (₹100, three hours) leave from a third stand just to the west of this one. Less frequent and slower buses run from the SNT bus station to Gangtok (₹85, 12.30pm), Namchi (₹24, noon), Pelling (₹50, 2.30pm), Ravangla (₹45, noon) and Siliguri (₹83, 9.30am)

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1 Sights

Mane Choekhorling Gompa

MONASTERY

SIKKIM W E S T S I K K I M

Steps lead up from the end of Main Bazaar to this handsome new stone-and-wood gompa. The festival ground here is the site of the annual Pang Lhabsol festival (www .panglhabsol.blogspot.com), held each August in honour of Kanchendzonga. Chaam dances take place on the 15th day of the seventh lunar month. Sakyamuni Complex

MONUMENT

Just behind the gompa is the huge new

Sakyamuni Complex (www.sakyamuniproject. com), centrepiece of which is a giant 41m tall

Buddha statue. The statue holds Buddhist relics from 13 countries and will eventually include a meditation and hotel complex when completed in 2012. The Dalai Lama blessed the site in 2010.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hotel 10-Zing GUESTHOUSE $ (%9434241324; s ₹250, d ₹400-500) At the

main junction, this friendly and helpful place just has a few rooms so is often full. Doubles have geysers; otherwise it’s free bucket hot water. The good restaurant has nice outdoor seating.

Mt Narsing Resort RESORT $$ (%03592-226822; www.yuksom-tours.com; s/d lower resort from ₹800/900, upper annexe from ₹1700/2000) There are two wings at this rus-

tic bungalow place 5km southwest of Ravangla. The lower main building is cheaper but the ambience and views are better at the upper resort, which oﬀers a characterful lodge with a fire pit, good food and fine views over the lawn towards Narsing and Pandim peaks. A taxi to the lower/upper resort costs ₹70/200. Kookie Restaurant TIBETAN $ (h7am-8pm; mains ₹40-80) This clean and

fresh Tibetan-run restaurant is easily the best in town. The menu includes rice and curry sets, Chinese sizzlers and good momos and noodle soups, and the tables are even decorated with fresh flowers. Leave a note on the ‘We Were Here’ noticeboard.

8 Getting There & Away

Luckypo Travels on the main highway books shared jeeps to Gangtok (₹90, 8am to noon), Pelling (₹90, 1pm), Siliguri (₹150, 7am to 8am) and Geyzing (₹70, 9am); for Yuksom, change at

Geyzing. Jeeps to Namchi (₹45, one hour) and Legship (₹40) leave from near Hotel 10-Zing. The SNT bus booking oﬃce is part of Hotel 10-Zing. Buses run to Namchi (₹26, one hour, 9am and 1pm) and Siliguri (₹130 to ₹140, five hours, 6.30am).

Around Ravangla At Ralang, 13km below Ravangla, the splendid and active 1995 Palchen Choeling Monastic Institute (New Ralang Gompa) is home to about 200 Kagyu-order monks. Arrive early morning or around 3pm to hear them chanting in mesmerising unison. There’s a 9m-high golden statue of the historical Buddha in the main hall, and locally the gompa is famous for elaborate butter sculptures. Peek into the side room to see the amazing eﬃgies used in November’s impressive Mahakala dance. About 1.5km downhill on the same road is peaceful Old Ralang Gompa, established in 1768 and worth a visit. A chartered taxi to Ralang costs around ₹500 from Ravangla (return with two hours’ wait). Beside the main Legship road, 5.5km from central Ravangla, small but fascinating Yungdrung Kundrakling is the only Bon monastery in Sikkim. The originally animistic Bon faith preceded Buddhism in Tibet but has since been largely subsumed by it. You’ll have to look closely to notice that the deities are slightly diﬀerent and that the prayer wheels are turned anticlockwise. Non-flash photography is allowed inside. You can get here from Ravangla on a shared jeep to Kewzing (₹20). On the way back you could stop at the roadside Cloud’s End Retreat for a tea before descending the stone steps for ten minutes to Sakyamuni (Doling Gompa), a monastery complex. Back in town, a steep three- to four-hour hiking trail leads from above the Sakyamuni statue to the top of Maenam Hill (3150m), looming just above the town of Ravangla, through the springtime rhododendrons and magnolia blooms of the Maenam Wildlife Sanctuary. The views are wonderful and you just might see rare red pandas and monal pheasants (Sikkim’s state bird). From the summit continue 2km to Bhaledunga rock, where the government is planning to build an observation ‘skyway’. A guide is useful to avoid getting lost in the forest on your

return; arrange one for around ₹400 at the forestry check post.

Geyzing, Tikjuk & Legship % 03595

(Side wing, 3rd fl; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd Sat of month).

Apart from its vaguely interesting Sunday market, Geyzing is most useful as West Sikkim’s transport hub. Frequent shared jeeps go to Jorethang (₹60, 1½ hours), Legship (₹25, 30 minutes), Pelling (₹25, 20 minutes), Tashiding (₹60, 1½ hours) and Yuksom (₹70, 2½ hours). Several serve Gangtok (₹140, seven to nine hours, 7am to 12.30pm), Ravangla (₹68, one hour, 9am and 11.45am) and Siliguri (₹150, four hours, 7am and 12.30pm). When no other transport is available, especially to or from Tashiding, try connecting at Legship. Should you get stranded, Hotel Trishna (%250887; d/tr ₹200/300) is simple, with private bathrooms, bucket hot water and a rooftop terrace. Just 5km south of Legship, across the river, the Phursangchu hot springs and Guru Rinpoche cave are worth a quick stop if you have your own transport.

Pelling % 03595 / ELEV 2085M

Pelling’s raison d’être is its stride-stopping view of Khangchendzonga at dawn. It’s not so much a town as a 2km string of tourist hotels, but don’t be put oﬀ. The view is worth it. Despite hordes of visitors, locals remain surprisingly unjaded, and the best budget hotels are great for meeting fellow travellers. The helipad to the west of the centre gives magnificent panoramic views, especially at dawn. Pelling is nominally divided into Upper, Middle and Lower areas, though these eﬀectively merge. A focal point of Upper Pelling is a small roundabout where the main road from Geyzing turns 180 degrees in front of Hotel Garuda. At the same point, minor

543

T Tours Most hotels and travel agencies oﬀer oneday tours. Popular options visit Yuksom via Khecheopalri Lake and three waterfalls (₹2000 to ₹2500 per jeepload) or combine Khecheopalri Lake, Pemayangtse Gompa and Rabdentse (₹1800 to ₹2000). Hotel Garuda (%258319; Upper Pelling; tours per day per jeep ₹1800) Half-day tours to Khe-

cheopalri Lake cost ₹1200; to Pemayangtse and Rabdentse costs an extra ₹600.

Hotel Kabur (%258504; deepesh83@yahoo. co.in; Upper Pelling; day tours ₹2000) Local

tours and more; ask about the treks from Ribdi.

4 Sleeping Most of Pelling’s hotels cater primarily to midrange domestic tourists. Rates typically drop 30% in low season and are highly negotiable during low occupancy. Hotel Garuda HOTEL $ (%258319; Upper Pelling; dm ₹100, r ₹250-600, deluxe ₹900-1100; i) A well-run backpacker fa-

vourite, with clean, spacious rooms, all with hot shower and TV, good Khangchendzonga views and a good-value restaurant ideal for hooking up with other travellers. The owner is very knowledgable about the region and oﬀers guests a handy schematic guide map. Hotel Kabur HOTEL $ (%258504; deepesh83@yahoo.co.in; Upper Pelling; r ₹150-600) Entry is via the top floor, which is

a delightful restaurant backed by a verandah that looks out onto the mountains. Rooms have towels, soap, toilet paper and heaters in winter – all usually absent in rooms of this price, though rooms without a view can be dark and cold. If you need to know something, do something or go somewhere, the owners Deepen and his identical twin Deepesh are the people to ask (even if you’re never quite sure which one you’re talking to!).

Norbu Ghang Resort HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%258272; www.norbughangresort.com; Upper Pelling; s/d from ₹2800/3000; aW) A spread of

pretty cottages (some private, some duplexes) dots the hillside of this resort. Most have fine views, so you can savour the dawn views from the toasty-warm comfort of your own bed. An afternoon beer on the lawn is another

WEST SIKKIM SIKKIM TO G EU Y ZRISNTO G ,UTRISK J U K & L EG S H I P

The following three towns have little to offer a visitor apart from a permit extension at Tikjuk and transport changes at Geyzing. Geyzing is West Sikkim’s capital, but for permit extensions you need Tikjuk, half way to Pelling. Tikjuk is the District Administrative Centre for West Sikkim. Permits can be extended at the Superintendent of Police office

roads branch south to Dentam and southwest to the helipad and tourist oﬃce.

544

e # 00

Pelling

200 m 0.1 miles

Pelling

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 1 Hotel Garuda........................................B2 2 Hotel Kabur ..........................................B2

‚

To Yuksom (36km)

#4 ÿ #8 ÿ

# 13

# ö ÿ # #

Helipad

# ÿ ÿ #6 Playing Field

1 # 12 ˜ #Ø

# ì

ï #

# ð Ø #

11 2

‚

Lookout

To Geyzing (10km)

ÿ #

‚

SIKKIM W E S T S I K K I M

ú 9#

To Pemayangtse Gompa (1.3km)

To Sangachoelling Gompa (1.5km) A

ú Eating 9 Melting Point........................................ A1 Information 10 Tourist Office .......................................B2

highlight. A second Norbu Ghang resort and spa is under construction behind this one. Elgin Mount Pandim HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%250756; www.elginhotels.com; s/d incl full board ₹5600/5900; ai) Pelling’s most historic hotel

is a five-minute stroll from Pemayangtse gompa, with arguably the best mountain views in all of Sikkim. The fairy godmother of renovation has been generous with the parlour-room wicker and antiques and the Aussie-Tibetan managers add a personal warmth to the elegant charm. Request a mountain-view room. Hotel Sonamchen HOTEL $$ (%258346; sonamchen07@yahoo.com; s/d from ₹1000/1200) The rooms here can’t deliver

on the expectations created by the ornately decorated lobby but most do have superb Khangchendzonga views, with rates decreasing in price as you descend the floors. The standard rooms with balcony oﬀer the best value. Pelling has over 80 hotels. Other options:

Touristo Hotel HOTEL (%258206; Lower Pelling; d ₹500-1000) Only

ÿ Sleeping 3 Hotel Parodzong..................................A2 4 Hotel Rabdentse Residency ............... A1 5 Hotel Simvo..........................................A2 6 Hotel Sonamchen................................A2 7 Norbu Ghang Resort ...........................A2 8 Touristo Hotel ...................................... A1

the best rooms have good Khangchendzonga views.

Hotel Rabdentse Residency HOTEL $$ (%258612; www.saikripa.in; Lower Pelling; d from ₹850-1050, ste ₹1800-3300) Downstairs

behind the Touristo, with some views and a good restaurant.

5 Eating & Drinking Pelling’s best dining is in the hotels. The Norbu Ghang, Garuda, Kabur and Rabdentse Residency are the best bets.

Transport 11 Father Tours ........................................B2 12 Shared Jeeps to Geyzing ....................B2 13 SNT Counter (Hotel Pelling)............... A1

Melting Point MULTICUISINE $ (Middle Pelling; mains ₹60-110) It’s a short stroll

downhill to this friendly restaurant, which oﬀers cosy indoor seating or excellent terrace views. The wide menu ranges from baked potatoes to Sikkimese fixed meals (₹350; ordered in advance). There’s 20% discount between 5pm and 7pm.

8 Information

Paylink Cyber Zone (per hr ₹50; h8am-7pm) Just below Hotel Kabur. SBI ATM Opposite the Hotel Garuda. Tourist office (% 9434630876; h9am-5pm)

8 Getting There & Away

SNT buses run to Siliguri (₹135, four hours, 7am) via Jorethang (₹40, 2½ hours); book at the SNT counter (Hotel Pelling) in Lower Pelling from where the buses depart. Father Tours (%258219; Upper Pelling) runs shared jeeps at 7am for Gangtok (₹200, five hours) and Siliguri (₹200, 4½ hours). If nothing is available ex-Pelling, change in Geyzing. Shared jeeps to Geyzing (₹25, 20 minutes) leave frequently from near the Hotel Garuda, passing close to Pemayangtse, Rabdentse and Tikjuk district administrative centre. For Khecheopalri Lake (₹60) or Yuksom (₹60) jeeps start from Geyzing, passing through Pelling between noon and 1pm. The Kabur and Garuda

hotels can book seats for you, or simply join a day-trip tour and throw away the return ticket.

Around Pelling

Rock), supposedly the scene of an epic Ramayana battle between Rama and 10-headed demon king Ravana. Arrange a guide (₹300 to ₹400) from the Kabur or Garuda hotels.

545

PEMAYANGTSE GOMPA

RABDENTSE

The royal capital of Sikkim from 1670 to 1814, the now-ruined Rabdentse (admission free; hdawn-dusk) consists of chunky wallstubs with a few inset inscription stones. These would look fairly unremarkable were they not situated on such an utterly fabulous viewpoint ridge. The entrance to the site is around 3km from Upper Pelling, along the road to Geyzing. The ruins are a 10-minute walk from the site’s yellow gateway. As the sign says, ‘Do not get tired. Great excitement is awaiting’!

The Monastery Loop Day-long and overnight jeep tours from Pelling take in the major sights here, or you can do a great adventurous three-day trip from Pelling to Tashiding via Khecheopalri Lake, using a combination of jeeps and hiking. Alternatively, consider catching a ride to wonderful Yuksom via Khecheopalri Lake using tour jeeps and hiking from there to Tashiding. PELLING TO YUKSOM

Tourist jeeps stop at several relatively lacklustre time-filler sites. Rimbi and Khangchendzonga Falls are best after rains while Phamrong Falls are impressive any time. Although it’s several kilometres up a dead-end spur road, virtually all Yuksombound tours visit Khecheopalri, dropping you for about half an hour at a car park five minutes’ walk from the little lake. Pronounced ‘catch-a-perry’, the holy Khecheopalri Lake (1950m) is highly revered by both Sikkimese Buddhists and Lepcha animists who believe that birds assiduously remove any leaves from its surface. During Khecheopalri Mela (March/ April), butter lamps are floated out across the lake. Prayer wheels line the lake’s jetty, which is backed by fluttering prayer flags and Tibetan inscriptions, but the setting, ringed with forested hills, is serene rather than dramatic. The best way to appreciate the site is to stay overnight and visit once the tourists have left. Around the car park is a Buddhist nunnery, a couple of shops and the simple

SANGACHOELING GOMPA

The second-oldest gompa in all of Sikkim, charming Sangachoeling has some beautiful murals and a peaceful ridgetop setting. It’s a steep 2km walk from Pelling starting along the dirt track that veers left where the asphalted road rises to Pelling’s new helipad. A huge statue of Chenresig, the Buddhist Bodhissatva of Compassion, is currently under construction just behind the monastery A jungle trek continues 10km beyond Sangachoeling to Rani Dhunga (Queen’s

If you are headed to or from Pemayangtse Monastery, pop into the Lotus Bakery (cake ₹25-30; h8am-5pm), 15 minutes’ walk above Pelling, for a restorative slice of carrot or banana cake. All money raised goes to the nearby Denjong Pema Choling Academy.

WEST SIKKIM SIKKIM 8 R O U N8D P E L L I N G A

Literally translated as ‘Perfect Sublime Lotus’, the 1705 Pemayangtse gompa (Indian/ foreigner ₹10/20; h7am-5pm) is one of Sikkim’s oldest and most significant Nyingmapa gompas. Magnificently set on a hilltop (2100m) overlooking the Rabdentse ruins, the atmospheric compound is ringed by gardens and traditional cottages used by the resident monks. The ground floor features a central Buddha, while upstairs fierce-looking statues depict all eight reincarnations of Padmasambhava. On the top floor is an astounding seven-tiered model representing Padmasambhava’s heavenly abode of Zangtok Pelri, handmade over five laborious years by a single dedicated lama. During February/March impressive chaam dances celebrating Losar culminate with the unfurling of a huge gyoku (giant embroidered thangka) and the zapping of evil demons with a great fireball. Pemayangtse is 1.5km from Upper Pelling, along the road to Geyzing, and is easily combined with a visit to Rabdentse. The signposted turn-oﬀ is near an obvious stupa.

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Jigme Restaurant serving tea and chow

SIKKIM W E S T S I K K I M

mein. From the car park a path to the left leads uphill for 20 minutes to Khecheopalri Gompa and stupa, high above the lake. A hiking trail from here leads up for a couple of hours to the Duphuk meditation cave and viewpoint, where the outline of the lake below looks like a footprint. There are other viewpoints to explore around the lake. Just beside the gompa and run by a local lama is Pala’s Guest House (%9832471253; per person incl 3 meals ₹300), with more rooms available at next-door Sonam’s nicer annexe. The wooden rooms are simple, but it’s a great opportunity to slow things down a bit, do some hiking and even learn some meditation. Deepen Pradhan also operates a good homestay (%9735945598; per person incl one meal ₹450), five minutes’ walk away; for de-

tails ask at the Kabur Hotel in Pelling. Shared jeeps to Geyzing (₹70, two hours) leave the parking lot at 6am, travelling via Pelling. A hiking trail to Yuksom (9km, three to five hours) leaves the road about 400m before the car park and descends steeply in 90 minutes to the main road (take the right branch after crossing the Runom Khola river), emerging near the Khangchendzonga Falls. After the road suspension bridge, follow the concrete steps uphill to meet the Yuksom road, about 2km below Yuksom village. Alternatively hitch a ride (₹30) once you get to the road.

YUKSOM

% 03595 / ELEV 1780M

Loveable little Yuksom is historic, charming and unspoilt. Domestic tourists avoid it as it lacks the mountain views and it hasn’t become a travellers’ ghetto like Hampi or Manali. The town is the main trailhead for the treks towards Mt Khangchendzonga.

1 Sights

Norbugang Park

SACRED SITE

Yuksom means ‘meeting place of the three lamas’, referring to the trio of Tibetan holy men who crowned the first chogyal of Sikkim here in 1641. The charming site is now Norbugang Park, which contains a small temple, huge mani khorlo (prayer wheel), chorten (stupa) and the supposedly original Coronation Throne (Norbugang). Standing beneath a vast cryptomeria pine, it looks something like an ancient Olympic podium made of whitewashed stone. Just in front of

the throne is a spooky footprint fused into the stone, believed to be that of one of the crowning lamas: you can see a distinct impression of sole and toes. Walking up to Norbugang Park past Hotel Tashi Gang you’ll pass the murky prayer-flaglined Kathok Lake, from which anointing waters were taken for the original coronation. Tashi Tenka

RUINS

When Yuksom was Sikkim’s capital, a royal palace complex known as Tashi Tenka sat on a ridge to the south with superb almost 360-degree views. Today barely a stone remains but the views are still superb. To find the site head south out of town and take the small uphill path marked by two weathered stupas near the school football pitch. The site is 10 minutes’ walk away through the charming village of Gupha Dara. Dubdi Gompa

MONASTERY

Kathok Wodsallin Gompa

MONASTERY

Ngadhak Changchub Choling Gompa

MONASTERY

High on the ridge above Yuksom, Dubdi (Hermit’s Cell) Gompa is set in beautifully tended gardens behind three coarsely hewn stupas. Established in 1701, it is said to be Sikkim’s oldest monastery, though the current chapel looks much newer. Start the steep 40-minute climb from upper Yuksom’s primary health centre; the clear path rises through thickets of trumpet lilies and some lovely mature forest. Yuksom has two photogenic new gompas. Kathok Wodsallin Gompa, near Hotel Tashi Gang, has an impressively stern statue of Guru Padmasambhava surrounded by a collection of yogis, gurus and lamas in glassfronted compartments. The entry is up a path opposite the Tashigang Hotel.

This other new and similarly colourful gompa is accessed through an ornate gateway opposite Hotel Yangri Gang. The main statue is of an 11-headed Chenresig, the Bodhissatva of Compassion.

2Activities Several trekking agencies in Yuksom can organise a Khangchendzonga trek given a couple of days warning. Prices start around US$40 per person per day assuming a group of four. The best: Alpine Exodus Tours & Travel TREKKING (%9735087508; nawang.bhutia@gmail.com; Hotel Yangri Gang)

Desire Earth Treks & Expeditions TREKKING (%9733052919; www.trekinsikkim.com) Next to Hotel Pemathang Mountain Tours and Treks (%9641352656; www.sherpatreks.in)

TREKKING

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Demazong HOTEL $ (%9775473687; dm ₹80-100, r ₹500, without bathroom ₹200) The concrete exterior isn’t exactly

charming but the rooms here are spacious, clean and decent value, making this the most popular budget option. Hotel Tashi Gang HOTEL $$ (%9733077249; hoteltashigang@gmail.com; s/d from ₹1200/1500) The traditional bedspreads,

painted furniture and decorative thangkas add an element of Sikkimese style to this good-value place. Rooms are large (some with balconies), beds are comfortable and there’s a nice lawn.

Yuksom Residency HOTEL $$ (%241277; www.yuksomresidency.com; s/d from ₹2500/2700;W) The plushest place in town

has clean spacious rooms, a pleasant garden and even a meditation hall; perfect for re-

547

Hotel Yangri Gang HOTEL $ (%241217; d ₹500-800, without bathroom ₹300; i) The basement rooms are functional

concrete cubes, but the upstairs options are airy with clean wooden floors, wooden halfpanelling and good hot showers. It’s a good upper budget option favoured by trekkers.

5 Eating

Gupta Restaurant MULTICUISINE $ (mains ₹35-90; h5am-9pm) Beers, curries, piz-

za, breakfasts and almost anything else you could dream up (including quesadillas!) are available in this popular backpacker cafe. Sit outside at the sociable thatched cabana or keep warm in the cosy interior. The nextdoor Yak Restaurant is similar but has a smaller menu. 8Information Community Information Centre (internet per hr ₹50; h10am-3pm Mon-Sat) Offers internet connections in an unlikely hut near Kathok Lake. Khangchendzonga Conservation Committee (% 9733158268; www.kccsikkim.org; h10am4pm) An impressive local environmental group that offers information on local ecotourism options, recycling initiatives and homestays. An internet cafe is planned. The office is at the top of town, 300m past the Gupta Restaurant.

8 Getting There & Away

Around 6.30am, several shared jeeps leave for Jorethang (₹100, four hours) via Tashiding

YUKSOM TO TASHIDING HIKE Starting in Yuksom is easier than coming the other way for this long but highly rewarding one-day hike. No trekking permits are required. Figure on six hours of walking (19km), plus another two hours visiting the monasteries. Porter-guides are available in Yuksom for around ₹400. Start by ascending to Dubdi Gompa (p546), from where a path dips into a side valley for 40 minutes to Tsong, where the trail divides. The lower route returns to Yuksom, while the upper route leads uphill past cardamom fields to lonely Hongri Gompa, a small, unusually unpainted ancient monastery with a superlative ridge-top location. Local folklore claims the gompa was moved here from a higher spot where monks kept being ravaged by yeti. A signpost points the way downhill for 20 minutes to Nessa hamlet, continuing down to the new road 10 minutes before the village of Pokhari Dara (four hours from Yuksom). Follow the road until a footpath branches towards Sinon Gompa (built 1716), high above Tashiding. The path then drops steeply down steps behind the yellow monastic school, following village trails down to Tashiding. The switchbacking road takes much longer.

WEST SIKKIM 8 N A S T E R Y LO O P SIKKIM 8HE MO T

Foreign trekking groups often book out the Tashi Gang and Yuksom Residency hotels so it’s wise to make reservations for these places. Khangchendzonga Conservation Committee (p547) arranges homestays (per person full board ₹500-700), oﬀering travellers the chance to connect with locals, eat local food and even share in chores like milking the cows.

turning trekkers in need of a hot shower and a splash of decadence.

548

(₹50, 1½ hours), and Geyzing via Pelling (₹70, approximately 2½ hours). Jeeps to Gangtok (₹180, six hours) leave early in the morning and, less reliably, in the afternoon. Try to book the day before, either at the shop next to the Gupta Restaurant or at the hut opposite.

SIKKIM W E S T S I K K I M

DZONGRI & GOECHA LA – THE KHANGCHENDZONGA TREK

For guided groups with permits, Yuksom is the starting point of Sikkim’s classic sevento 10-day trek to Goecha La, a 4940m pass with quite fabulous views of Khangchendzonga. Trek costs start at US$40 to US$60 per person per day (assuming a group of four), including food, guides, porters and yaks. You have to arrange your trek through a trekking agency, who will sort out the permits. Paperwork must be done in Gangtok but, given two or three days, agents in Pelling or Yuksom can organise things by sending a fixer to the capital for you. Don’t underestimate the rigours of the trek. Don’t hike too high too quickly: altitude sickness often strikes those who are fittest and fastest. Starting early makes sense, as rain is common in the afternoons, spoiling views and making trail sections annoyingly muddy. Check all your equipment before setting oﬀ, making sure there are enough goodquality sleeping bags to go around. Bring a torch (flashlight). For full details of the trek see Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Indian Himalaya. March to May is an ideal time to trek. By the end of May the monsoon rains have started to arrive. Clearest skies are from October to December, when snow starts to block the trails. The route initially follows the Rathong Valley through unspoilt forests then ascends steeply to Baktim (Bakhim; 2750m) and the rustic Tibetan village of Tsokha (3050m), established in 1969 by Tibetan refugees and the last village on the trail, where spending two nights helps with acclimatisation. The next stage climbs to pleasant meadows around Dzongri (4020m). Consider another acclimatisation day here spent strolling up to Dzongri La (4550m, four-hour round-trip) for fabulous views of Mt Pandim (6691m). From Dzongri, the trail drops steeply to Kokchurong then follows the river to Thangsing (3930m). Trekkers have recommended spending an extra day here to visit the beautiful lake at Lampokhari,

three hours’ walk away. Next day takes you to camping at Lamuni, 15 minutes before Samiti Lake (4200m), from where a nextmorning assault takes you to head-spinning Goecha La (4940m) for those incredible views of Khangchendzonga. A further viewpoint, an hour’s walk further, oﬀers even closer views. The return is by essentially the same route. Alternatively at Dzongri you could cut south for about a week following the Singalila Ridge along the Nepal–Sikkim border to emerge at Uttarey, from where public transport runs to Jorethang. There are government-run trekkers’ huts at Baktim, Tsokha, Dzongri, Kokchurong and Thangsing, but most have neither furniture nor mattresses and huts sometimes get booked out with noisy student groups during high season. It’s far better to bring all camping equipment and food. TASHIDING ELEV 1490M

Little Tashiding is just a single, sloping market street forking north oﬀ the Yuksom– Legship road, but its south-facing views are wide and impressive. Walking 400m south from the junction towards Legship takes you down past a series of mani walls with bright painted mantras to a colourful gateway. A 2.5km

KHANGCHENDZONGA TREK SCHEDULE STAGE

ROUTE

DURATION

Yuksom to Tsokha, via Baktim

6-7 hr

Optional acclimati- 1 day sation day at Tsokha

Tsokha to Dzongri

Acclimatisation day 1 day at Dzongri, or continue to Kokchurong

Dzongri (or Kokchu- 6-7 hr rong) to Lamuni, via Thangsing

Lamuni to Goecha La, then down to Thangsing

8-9 hr

Thangsing to Tsokha

6-7 hr

Tsokha to Yuksom

5-6 hr

4-5 hr

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd mani padme hum; at the back of the compound is the engraver’s lean-to. In January or February, the monastery celebrates the Bumchu festival during which lamas gingerly open a sacred pot. Then, judging from the level of holy water within, they make all-important predictions about the coming year. The central wooden Mt Siniolchu Guest House (%243211; r without bathroom ₹200) is a basic but friendly budget option. Concrete New Tashiding Lodge (%243249; tr without bathroom ₹300-350), 300m south of the mar-

ket, has fine views from Rooms 3, 4 and 5 and even better ones from the shared bathroom.

Yatri Niwas (%9832623654; kabirbista@ yahoo.com; s/d ₹1000/1200) is an excellent mid-

range place down at the base of town by the turn-oﬀ to the monastery, oﬀering spacious rooms, lovely gardens and a good restaurant. Shared jeeps to Gangtok (₹130, four hours), Jorethang (₹70, two hours) and Geyzing (₹60, 1½ hours) leave from the main junction between 6.30am and 8am. A few jeeps to Yuksom pass through during early afternoon.

549

WEST SIKKIM 8 N A S T E R Y LO O P SIKKIM 8HE MO T

uphill driveable track (and much shorter footpath) leads to a car park from where a footpath leads up between an avenue of prayer flags to the atmospheric Nyingmapaschool Tashiding Gompa, about 30 minutes’ walk away. Founded in 1641 by one of the three Yuksom lamas (see p546), the monastery’s five colourful religious buildings are strung out between more functional monks’ quarters. Notice the giant-sized prayer wheel with Tibetan script picked out in gilt. Beautifully proportioned, the four-storey main prayer hall has a delicate filigree topknot, with wonderful views across the semi-wild flower garden towards Ravangla. The Dalai Lama chose the magical spot for a two-day meditation retreat in 2010. Beyond the last monastic building, an unusual compound contains dozens of white chortens, including the Thongwa Rangdol, said to wash away the sins of anyone who gazes upon it. Smaller but more visually exciting is the golden Kench Chorgi Lorde stupa. Propped up all around are engraved stones bearing the Buddhist mantra om

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Northeast Tribal States Assam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553 Guwahati . . . . . . . . . . 553 Kaziranga National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 559 Arunachal Pradesh . .564 Nagaland . . . . . . . . . . . 570 Manipur . . . . . . . . . . . . 573 Mizoram . . . . . . . . . . .574 Tripura . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576 Meghalaya . . . . . . . . . 579

Best Places to Stay

Why Go? India’s Northeast States, dangling way out on the edge of the map and the national perception, are strictly for explorers who want something different from their India experience. These remote frontier lands, where India, Southeast Asia and Tibet meet, are a collision zone of cultures, climates, landscapes and peoples and are one of Asia’s last great unknowns. It’s a place of rugged beauty where uncharted forests clamber up toward unnamed Himalayan peaks. It’s a land of enormous variety where rhinoceros live in swampy grasslands and former head-hunters live in longhouses in the jungle. And it’s an adventure in the truest sense of the word. Infuriating permits and over-exaggerated safety worries mean the northeast is way off the tourist trail, yet the people are probably the friendliest in India. So with all this on offer, why wait? Don your pith helmet and set forth in search of adventure.

» Eco-Camp (p559)

» Heritage Hotel (p570)

» Hotel Tripura Castle (p580)

» Classic Hotel (p574)

» Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort (p583)

When to Go Assam (Guwahati) °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

16/400

Best Adventures » Travel to Shangri La (p567) » Search for Paradise (p568)

» Brahmaputra ferry ride (p567) » Encounters with Naga Warriors (p572)

» Explore rural Mizoram (p576)

0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Mar The wildlife is at its most visible in Kaziranga and other national parks.

Oct The Himalayan vistas are perfect and the roads to Tawang and Mechuka remain snow-free.

Dec Fierce Naga warriors descend on Kohima for the Hornbill festival (December 1–7).

Food The food in the northeast is as varied and exotic as the people and the terrain. Sure, you can get all the North Indian and Chinese staples in most places, but if travel is all about new experiences then Northeast India is going to be a culinary adventure you’ll never forget. Things start oﬀ tame enough in high mountain areas like Tawang, where the food is reminiscent of neighbouring Tibet – delicious momos and less-delicious Tibetan tea are all the rage. Head east and things become more interesting. Barbecued rat, forest antelope and something we couldn’t quite identify were on the menu in central Arunachal Pradesh. If you’re going to Mizoram, don’t take Rover – dog meat is a delicacy there. In Nagaland, grubs, maggots, snakes, hornets and giant spiders all get taste buds excited.

DON’T MISS There aren’t all that many places left in the world where the maps may as well have blank spaces on them, snowcapped mountains remain unnamed and unclimbed, forests are filled with creatures that scientists have yet to lay eyes upon and hill tops are crowned with unmolested tribal villages, but northeast India is one such place. As the region slowly opens up, don’t miss this opportunity for genuine, undiluted adventure. Areas that are safe yet largely unexplored by tourists include almost all of rural Mizoram, large tracts of Tripura (check the security situation first), the furthest reaches of Nagaland and, best of all, huge chunks of steamy forests, alpine meadows and high Himalayan wildernesses have finally started opening up in Arunachal Pradesh.

Top Festivals » Torgya and Losar (Jan/Feb, Tawang, p569) Masked Tibetan Buddhist dances.

» Ambubachi Mela (Jun, Kamakhya Mandir, Guwahati, p554) Tantric rituals and animal sacrifices. » Nongkrem (Oct, Smit, p582) Khasi royal festival.

» Wangala (Oct/Nov, Meghalaya statewide, p579) Harvest festival with impressive dancing. » Ras Mahotsav Festival (3rd week of Nov, Majuli Island, p562) Major Vishnu festival.

» Hornbill Festival (Dec 1-7, Kohima, p571) Naga tribes in full warrior gear.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Guwahati airport has flights to most major Indian cities. It’s also the only big city in the northeast with a train line connecting it to the rest of India.

Fast Facts » Population: 44.99 million » Area: 255,083 sq km

» Main languages: Assamese, Bodo, Hindi, Nagamese, Manipuri, Mizo, Khasi, Garo, Bengali » Sleeping prices: $ below ₹800, $$ ₹800 to ₹2500, $$$ above ₹2500

Top Tip If you’re using a tour company, allow at least one month to obtain travel permits and two months if travelling in a group of less than four (and you’re not a married couple). If applying independently allow at least two to three months.

Resources » www.assamtourism.org » www.arunachaltourism .com » www.tourismnagaland .com » http://manipur.nic.in /tourism.htm

» www.mizotourism.nic.in » www.tripuratourism.in

» www.megtourism.gov.in

Anini

Tuting

External boundaries shown reflect the requirements of

552 the Government of India. Some boundaries may not

be those recognised by neighbouring countries. Lonely Planet always tries to show on maps where travellers may need to cross a boundary (and present documentation) irrespective of any dispute.

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Namdapha National Park

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Northeast Tribal States Highlights 1 Ride atop an elephant in search of rhinos in Kaziranga National Park (p559) 2 Touch the clouds at the 4176m pass of Se La before descending to Tawang Valley (p569), Arunachal Pradesh’s ‘little Tibet’ 3 Visit intriguing tribal

villages around Ziro (p565) and

meet the last of the bizarrely adorned Apatani women

6 Search for the Last

of Bangladesh from the lofty escarpment around Cherrapunjee (Sohra; p582)

gently out to the floating palace of Neermahal (p578)

4 Gaze down on the plains

5 Feel as if you’ve stepped

out of India into a diﬀerent culture and country in Nagaland’s Mon (p572)

Shangri La in Mechuka (p567)

7 Row, row, row the boat

8 Avoid the ghosts and hang with the Gods on the Blue Mountain (p576) of Mizoram

ASSAM

Guwahati

553

% 0361 / POP 809,805

The biggest, most cosmopolitan and, some might say, the most ‘Indian’ city in the northeast, Guwahati is an essential stop on any northeastern tour. A casual glance might place Guwahati alongside any other Indian city but wander the back alleys around Jorpulkuri Ponds, away from the concrete jungle of the central business district, and you could almost imagine yourself in a village made up of ponds, palm trees, small single-storey traditional houses and old colonial-era mansions. History

Guwahati is considered the site of Pragjyotishpura, a semi-mythical town founded by Asura King Naraka who was later killed by Lord Krishna for a pair of magical earrings. The city was a vibrant cultural centre well before the Ahoms arrived, and later it was the theatre of intense Ahom–Mughal

PERMIT PAINS Permits Permits for this region are a pain, being too bureaucratically involved for many foreigners, but those who take the trouble will be rewarded. Permits are mandatory for Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram and Manipur, and entry without one is a serious matter. Indian citizens just need an inner line permit, issued with little fuss in Guwahati or Kolkata (see p469). The rest of this box applies to foreigners who’ll require a Restricted Area Permit (RAP). Minimum Group Size Permit applications need a four-person minimum group. Exceptions are Nagaland, for a legally married couple with marriage certificate; and Arunachal Pradesh for a minimum of two people. In reality though, it’s now possible for single travellers to get permits to all the states, but only if you use a tour company (and even then you need a lot of patience). In Nagaland and Manipur, authorities may refuse you entry if some people listed on your permit are ‘missing’; Mizoram doesn’t seem bothered and Arunachal Pradesh is now much more relaxed. Validity & Registration Permits are valid for 10 days from a specified starting date, but Arunachal allows 30 days. You might be able to extend your permit, but only in state capitals at the Secretariat, Home Department. Be aware that permits only allow you to visit specified districts between specified dates, so plan carefully as changing routes might be problematic. Be sure to make multiple photocopies of your permit to hand in at each checkpoint, police station and hotel. Where to Apply Applications made independently through the Ministry of Home Aﬀairs (%011-23385748; Jaisalmer House, 26 Man Singh Rd, Delhi; hinquiries 9-11am Mon-Fri) or the appropriate State House in Delhi can take weeks and will normally end in frustration. Kolkata’s Foreigners’ Registration Oﬃce (FRO; %22837034; 237 AJC Bose Rd; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri) can issue permits but it seems to want to exclude Tawang from Arunachal, restrict access to Nagaland and not allow you into Mizoram. The easiest and most reliable way to get permits is through a reputable travel agency; see the Information section for each state.

ASSAM AST TRIBAL STATES G U WA H AT I NORTHE

Fascinating Assam (also known as Asom and Axom) straddles the fertile Brahmaputra valley, making it the most accessible of India’s Northeast States. The archetypal Assamese landscape oﬀers golden-green vistas over seemingly endless rice fields and manicured tea estates framed in the distance by the hazy-blue mountains of Arunachal. Assamese people might look Indian, but Assamese culture is proudly distinct: their Vishnu-worshipping faith is virtually a regional religion (see the boxed text, p562) and the gamosa (a red-and-white scarf worn by most men) is a subtle mark of regional costume. With warm and genuinely hospitable locals, national parks crawling with animals big and small, slow boat rides down the Brahmaputra and a string of Hindu temples, Assam is a delight to travel in.

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fighting, changing hands eight times in 50 years before 1681. In 1897 a huge earthquake, followed by a series of devastating floods, wiped out most of the old city.

Kamakhya is 7km west of central Guwahati and 3km up a spiralling side road. Occasional buses from Guwahati’s Kachari bus stand run all the way up (₹20, 20 minutes).

1 Sights

Umananda Mandir HINDU TEMPLE (Peacock Island) The temple complex sits on

Kamakhya Mandir HINDU TEMPLE (admission for no queue/short queue/queue ₹500/100/free; h8am-1pm & 3pm-dusk) While

Sati’s disintegrated body parts rained toes on Kolkata (see p443), her yoni fell on Kamakhya Hill. This makes Kamakhya Mandir important for shakti (sensual tantric worship of female spiritual power). Goats, pigeons and the occasional buﬀalo are ritually beheaded in a gory pavilion and the hot, dark inner womblike sanctum is painted red to signify sacrificial blood. The huge June/ July Ambubachi Mela celebrates the end of the mother goddess’ menstrual cycle with even more blood.

a small forested river island, accessed by a 15-minute ride on a ferry (₹10 return, half hourly 8am to 4.30pm) from Kachari Ghat, which itself oﬀers attractive afternoon river views. The Shiva temple, which sits atop the island, is less interesting than the boat ride out to it. Assam State Museum MUSEUM (GNB Rd; admission/camera/video ₹5/10/100; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, until 4pm winter) This mu-

seum is worth a visit. It has a large sculpture collection, while the upper floors are devoted to informative tribal culture displays. You get to walk through reconstructed tribal homes.

555

Guwahati æ Sights 1 Assam State Museum........................... B2 2 Courthouse ............................................ B2 3 Dighulipukhuri Park............................... B2 4 Guwahati Planetarium .......................... B2 5 Kachari Ghat .......................................... B2 6 Umananda Mandir..................................B1

ÿ Sleeping 9 Dynasty .................................................. A3 10 Hotel Prag Continental.......................... A2 11 Hotel Siroy Lily....................................... B3 12 Hotel Suradevi ....................................... A3 13 Prashaanti Tourist Lodge ..................... B3 14 Sundarban Guest House....................... B3

Old Guwahati

AREA

The distinctive beehive dome of the Courthouse (MG Rd) rises above attractive Dighuli-

pukhuri Park (HB Rd; admission ₹5, boats per person ₹15; h9.30am-8pm) with its large tank full of row boats. The nearby Guwahati Planetarium (MG Rd; shows ₹15; hnoon & 4pm, closed 1st & 15th of the month) looks somewhere

between a mosque and a landed UFO.

4 Sleeping Most midrange and top-end hotels add a 15% tax and 10% service charge to their nightly rates. These have been included in the prices listed here. Hotel Prag Continental HOTEL $$ (%2540850; www.hotelpragcontinental.com; MN Rd; s/d from ₹1180/1725; a) The spacious and

well-furnished rooms with wooden floors on oﬀer at this hotel are as spotless as the aquarium full of brightly painted fish that sits in the reception. The staﬀ are attentive and discounts easy to come by. It’s on a quieter side street and has a good restaurant. Sundarban Guest House HOTEL $ (%2730722; s/d from ₹385/550; a) A cheery,

colourful hotel that’s the best budget option in town and about the closest the northeast comes to a backpacker hangout. Rooms are atypically clean and tidy with stain-free sheets, and management is helpful. It’s oﬀ Manipuribasti East (ME) Rd, in the first side lane and away from road noise.

û ü Drinking 19 Café Coffee Day .......................................................B2 20 Trafik .......................................................D3 Information Assam Tourism .............................(see 13) Transport 21 Blue Hill ...................................................B4 22 Deep ........................................................B4 23 Kachari Bus Stand ....................................................B2

Dynasty HOTEL $$$ (%2516021; www.hoteldynastyindia.com; Sir Shahdullah (SS) Rd; r from ₹6100; aiW) The

shabby exterior makes it hard to believe that this is really Guwahati’s top hotel, but as we all know it’s what’s on the inside that counts: magnificent rooms with an old colonial flavour. It has all the facilities you’d expect from a top-end hotel, including a couple of superb restaurants plus a sauna and steam room. Hotel Siroy Lily HOTEL $$ (%2608492; www.hotelsiroylily.com; Solapara Rd; s/d from ₹836/1083; a) Professionally run

but tired-looking hotel with a pleasantly airconditioned foyer, complimentary breakfast and free newspapers delivered to your door. Considering the price it’s a pretty good deal. Also recommended:

Prashaanti Tourist Lodge HOTEL (%9207047841; Station Rd; r from ₹578; a)

Convenient for the train station, the rooms are OK but the staff could do with a brush-up in hospitality management. It’s a genuine bargain, though, but be prepared for some train noise.

Hotel Suradevi HOTEL $ (%2545050; MN Rd; s/d ₹200/300, without bathroom ₹100/250) Well-organised warren

of spartan rooms. Check in early to get a room. The owner speaks good English.

ASSAM SAST L E E PTRIBAL ING NORTHE STATES G S LUEWA E PHI NAT GI

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 7 Network Travels .................................... B3 8 Rhino Travels ......................................... A3 Traveller's Point............................ (see 13)

ú Eating 15 Beatrix.....................................................C2 16 Dhaba ......................................................D3 17 Kurry Pot.................................................D3 18 Paradise ..................................................D3 Tandoori.......................................... (see 9)

556

TRAVELLING SAFELY IN THE NORTHEAST STATES

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES A S S A M

In recent decades many ethnolinguistic groups in the northeast have jostled – often violently – to assert themselves in the face of illegal Bangladeshi immigration, governmental neglect and a heavy-handed defence policy. Some want independence from India, others autonomy, but more are fighting what are eﬀectively clan or turf wars. At the time of writing Arunachal Pradesh, most of Assam, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland and the tourist areas of Tripura were fairly peaceful. The problem is that trouble can flare up suddenly and unpredictably. In 2010 bombings hit parts of Assam and the Garo hills area of Meghalaya. Much of Manipur remains dangerous to visit (but the areas open to tourists are currently calm). If you stick to the main tourist routes, the worst problems you’re likely to encounter are the regular strikes that paralyse Assam. Even so, it’s wise to keep abreast of latest news with the Assam Tribune (www.assam tribune.com) and if you’re with a tour group, ensure your guide is up to date with the latest situation.

5 Eating

above a student hangout. Its eclectic menu oﬀers fish and chips, momos (Tibetan dumplings) and Hakka Chow. The beautiful old villa it sits next door to is also worth gawping at.

concocts majestic North Indian dishes which are served at stylish low tables by waiters in Mughal uniforms accompanied by gentle live tabla music.

Tandoori NORTH INDIAN $$ (%2516021; SS Rd; mains ₹200-300; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm) Inside the Dynasty Hotel, Tandoori

Paradise ASSAMESE $$ (1st fl, GNB Rd; mains ₹100-200) Well known

for its authentic Assamese cuisine, its thali is the best way to get a lot of small tasters. Assamese food is not a lip-tingler like typical Indian food and for some this cuisine can seem rather bland, but it’s the subtleties you’re after rather than the heat. Dhaba NORTH INDIAN $$ (Silpukhuri, GNB Rd; mains ₹120-180) This simple

canteen-style restaurant serves good North Indian staples as well as some token Chinese dishes. You can eat indoors or, if you prefer, out in the courtyard where the side portion of carbon monoxide comes free with the meal. They have a couple of other branches around town.

Kurry Pot SOUTH INDIAN $$ (GNB Rd; mains ₹100-180) The specialities of

this clean and peaceful restaurant are the dosas (₹40 to ₹80) and the list of diﬀerent types is almost as long as the dosa itself. If a dosa’s not for you then they dish up a range of other Indian staples. It’s popular with the lunchtime work crowd. Beatrix MULTICUISINE $ (Manik Chandra (MC) Rd; dishes ₹60-165) Upbeat

and cartoon-walled, Beatrix is just a peg

Drinking

Café Coffee Day CAFE (Taybullah Rd; espresso ₹25; h 10am-10pm)

Guwahati’s central coffee shop, pumping out contemporary music, attracts the city’s students and nouveau-riche youth with perfect (if very slow) macchiato.

Trafik BAR (GNB Rd; beers ₹70; h10am-10pm) This underlit

bar has a vast screen for cricket matches or filmi (slang term describing anything to do with Indian movies; in this case, Bollywood music) clips.

8 Information

Emergency Police station (%2540126, Hem Barua (HB) Rd) Internet Access iWay (Lamb Rd; per hr ₹25; h9am-last customer) Medical Services Downtown Hospital (%2331003; GS Rd, Dispur) The area’s best. Money ATMs abound and it’s a good idea to stock up on local currency here as ATMs in smaller centres can be unreliable. State Bank of India (SBI; 3rd fl, MG Rd) ATM, changes major currencies and travellers cheques.

Permits Indian citizens can obtain inner line permits (see the following list) but foreigners shouldn’t expect any assistance (for foreigner permits, see p553). Arunachal House (%23341243; Rukmini Gao, GS Rd) Manipur Bhawan (%2540707; Rajgarh Rd) Mizoram House (%2529441; GS Rd, Christian Basti) Nagaland House (%2332158; Sachel Rd, Sixth Mile, Khanapara)

Tourist Information Assam Tourism (%2542748; www.assam tourism.org; Station Rd) Informal help desk within the Prashaanti Tourist Lodge, with a tour booth just outside.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Air India (%2264420, Ganeshguri), IndiGo Airlines, Jet Airways (%2633252; Tayebullah Rd), Kingfisher and SpiceJet fly to Guwahati from most major Indian cities (often with a stopover in Kolkata). Getting into town from Guwahati’s orderly Lok-Priya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport costs ₹500/100/70 for taxi/shared taxi/airport bus. HELICOPTER

Pawan Hans Helicopters (%2842174; www .pawahans.co.in) shuttles to Shillong (₹1200, 45 minutes, 9am & 1pm Mon-Sat), Naharlagun near Itanagar and Lumla for Tawang (₹3000, 1¼ hours, 10am Mon-Sat). Phone through your booking then pay at the airport if the service flies (weather and passenger numbers permitting).

Bus & Sumo Distance buses leave from the Interstate Bus Terminal (ISBT) 8km east of Guwahati. Private bus operators run shuttle services from their oﬃces to the ISBT. With extensive networks are Network Travels (%2522007; GS Rd), Deep (%2152937; Heramba Prasad Borua (HPB) Rd) and Blue Hill (%2601490; HPB Rd). All companies charge the same regulated fares. Train Of the four daily trains to Delhi, the Guwahati New Delhi Rajdhani (No 2423; 3AC/2AC ₹1995/2565, 27 hours, 7.05am) is the fastest; others take over 42 hours. The best daily train to Kolkata (Howrah Junction) is the Saraighat Express (No 2346; sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹386/1012/1366, 16½ hours, 12.45pm). For New Jalpaiguri (for Darjeeling and Sikkim) the best train is the Guwahati New Jalpaiguri Rajdhani (No 2423; 3AC/2AC/1AC ₹733/926/1522, six hours). Several trains serve Dimapur (sleeper/3AC/2AC from ₹166/401/531, four to six hours), Jorhat (sleeper/3AC ₹202/521, seven to 11 hours) and Dibrugarh (3AC/2AC/1AC ₹926/1206/1970, 11 hours). Trains to Jorhat and Dibrugarh cut through Nagaland, but you don’t need a Nagaland permit as long as you stay on the train (the same rule doesn’t apply for buses however).

8 Getting Around

Shared taxis to the airport (per person/car ₹100/500, 23km) leave from outside the Hotel

BUSES FROM GUWAHATI DESTINATION

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

Agartala (Tripura)

660

24-26

Aizawl (Mizoram)

750

Dibrugarh

380

Imphal (Manipur) via Mao

700

Jorhat

260

Kaziranga

260-300

Kohima (Nagaland)

330

Shillong (Meghalaya)

90-110

3½

Sivasagar

310-390

Tezpur

140-150

557

ASSAM 8AST TRIBAL STATES G NORTHE 8 U WA H AT I

Post Main post office (Ananda Ram Barua (ARB) Rd)

Meghalaya Helicopter Service (%2223129; airport) has two to three daily (except Sunday) flights to Shillong (₹1200, 30 minutes, 9am & 12.30pm plus 2pm Tuesday & Thursday). There are also services to Tura (Garo Hills, ₹1500, 50 minutes, 10.30am Mon, Wed & Fri). Helicopter travel in India has a poor safety record.

558

Mahalaxmi on GS Rd. From the Adabari bus stand city buses travel to Hajo (bus 25, ₹50, one hour) and Sualkuchi (bus 22, ₹50, one hour). Autorickshaws charge ₹25 to ₹50 for shorter hops.

Around Guwahati HAJO

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES A S S A M

Some 30km northwest of Guwahati, the pleasant little town of Hajo attracts Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims to its five ancient temples topping assorted hillocks. Haigriv Madhav temple is the main one, which is accessed by a long flight of steps through an ornate quasi-Mughal gateway. The images inside of Madhav, an avatar of Krishna, are alleged to be 6000 years old. POA MECCA

Two kilometres east of Hajo is a mosque sheltering the tomb of the multi-named Hazarat Shah Sultan Giasuddin Aulia Rahmatullah Alike who died some 800 years ago. Muslims need to walk (the less pious may drive) 4km up a spiral road to reach the mosque, which is architecturally unremarkable. POBITORA NATIONAL PARK

Only 40km from Guwahati, this small national park has the highest concentration of rhinoceros in the world. Entrance fees are the same as Kaziranga National Park (see p561). Getting into the park involves a boat ride over the river boundary to the elephantmounting station. From there it’s a one-hour trip atop an elephant lumbering through boggy grassland and stirring up petulant rhinos.

Northwestern Assam (Bodoland) MANAS NATIONAL PARK % 03666

Bodoland’s Manas National Park (www.ma nas100.com; Indian/camera/video ₹50/50/500; foreigner/camera/video ₹250/500/1000; hOctMar) is Unesco-listed and has two ‘ranges’ – Bansbari and Koklabari – with diﬀerent access points. Bansbari Range

NATURE RESERVE

Famous for tigers (though you’ll probably only see their pug marks), this range is comparatively accessible and can be

appreciated in delightful comfort from

Bansbari Lodge (%3612602223; www.assam bengalnavigation.com/bansbari.htm; d ₹2000, jungle package ₹7500). Jungle packages cover

full board, early morning elephant safari, jeep safari, guide, park entry fee and village and tea garden excursions. Ask about river rafting. Contact Jungle Travels India in Guwahati (p560) for bookings. Access is from Barpeta Rd.

8 Getting there & Away

Guwahati–Kokrajhar buses serve Pathsala junction and pass within 3km of Barpeta Rd. The Kamrup Express (No 5960, sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹144/280/345, 2½ hours, 7.35am) and Brahmaputra Mail (No 4055, sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹144/280/345, 2½ hours, 11.50am) connect Guwahati and Barpeta Rd. Jeep rental is available at Koklabari, Barpeta Rd and (for guests) at Bansbari Lodge.

Tezpur % 03712 / POP 80,573

Tezpur, with its large Bangladeshi immigrant population, is probably Assam’s most attractive city thanks to beautifully kept parks, attractive lakes and the enchanting views of the mighty Brahmaputra River as it laps the town’s edge. The imaginatively named Internet Cafe (Main Rd; per hr ₹20; h9am-8pm) has, you guessed it, internet.

1 Sights

Chitralekha Udyan (Cole Park; Jenkins Rd; adult/camera/video ₹20/20/100; h9am-7pm)

has a U-shaped pond (paddleboat hire ₹10 per person) wrapped around pretty manicured lawns, dotted with fine ancient sculptures. The park also contains bumper cars and waterslides (hApr-Sept)! A block east, then south, stands Ganeshgarh temple, which backs onto a ghat overlooking the surging river, a good place for Brahmaputra sunsets. Nearly 1km east along the narrow, winding riverside lane is Agnigarh Hill (Padma Park; adult/camera/video ₹20/20/100; h8.30am-7.30pm) that might have been Ban-

asura’s fire fortress site.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Centre Point HOTEL $$ (%232359; Main Rd; r from ₹660; aW) The

cheaper rooms at this new hotel bang in the town centre are splashed in smart white paint, but have cold water–only showers,

while the ‘executive’ rooms, with flat screen TVs, hot showers, desks and polished wooden floors are truly swanky, with business class standards for non-business class prices. Wi-fi is ‘coming soon’. KF HOTEL $$ (%237825; Mission Charali; s/d from ₹1760/1980; aW) With slick, contemporary rooms, good

Tourist Lodge HOTEL $ (%221016; Jenkins Rd; s/d from ₹473/525) Facing

Chitralekha Udyan, two blocks south of the bus station, the Tourist Lodge is unusual for a government-run hotel in that the staff do actually care about the well-being of their guests and the cleanliness of their hotel. This place offers good-value spacious rooms with bathrooms (some squat toilets) and mosquito nets. The modern glass tower Baliram Building, on the corner of Naren Bose (NB) and NC/SC Roads, contains several floors of good dining. The ground-floor stand-up-and-eat dosa house (h6am-9pm) has South Indian fare and cheap breakfasts. Semismart China Villa (meals from ₹120; h10am-10.30pm) offers Indian and Chinese food in AC comfort, while the rooftop Chat House (snacks from ₹30; h8am-9.30pm) has an open-sided, but roofed, terrace for cooling breezes, views, Indian snacks, noodles, pizzas and momos.

8 Getting There & Away

Sumos have their booking counters in Jenkins Rd and run to Bomdila in Arunachal Pradesh (₹250, eight hours) and Tawang (₹500, 15hrs). Bargain for a private taxi in the same street for the Eco-Camp at Potasali (₹1500) and Kaziranga (₹1500). A little further on is the bus station (Jenkins Rd) with frequent services to Guwahati (₹140 to ₹150, five hours), Jorhat (₹100, four hours) and Kohora for Kaziranga (₹45, two hours). Tezpur’s train station recently closed down, meaning that you now have to head to Guwahati or Jorhat if you want to ride the rails.

Around Tezpur Picturesque Nameri National Park (Indian/ camera/video ₹20/50/500, foreigner/camera/ video ₹250/500/1000; hNov-Apr) specialises in

Eco-Camp (%9435250052/09854019932; dm/d ₹200/1620, plus membership per person ₹50) organises all Nameri visits, including

two-hour birdwatching rafting trips (two people ₹550). Accommodation is in ‘tents’, but colourful fabrics, private bathrooms, sturdy beds and thatched-roof shelters make the experience relatively luxurious. The camp is set within lush gardens full of tweeting birds and butterflies drunk on tropical nectar. There’s an atmospheric, and excellent, open-sided restaurant and the staﬀ are simply superb. All up it gets our vote as the best place to stay in the entire northeast. It’s very popular, so book way ahead. If it’s full the government-run Jiabhoroli Wild Resort (%9954357376; tw ₹1200) just a short walk beyond the Eco-Camp, has plain ‘cottages’ that aren’t quite as quaint as a cottage should be. It’s very much the second choice.

Kaziranga National Park % 03776

Assam’s must-do attraction is an elephant safari to look for rhinoceros hiding in the expansive grasslands of this national park (h1

Nov-30 Apr, elephant rides 5.30-8.30am, jeep access 7.30am-noon & 2.30pm-dusk). Kaziranga’s popu-

lation of around 1855 Indian one-horned rhinos (just 200 in 1904) represents more than two-thirds of the world’s total. The park consists of a western, central and an eastern range, but the central range is the most accessible, giving the best viewing chances for rhinos, elephants and swamp deer plus plenty of bird life (take binoculars).

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ASSAM 8AST TRIBAL STATES A NORTHE 8 ROUND TEZPUR

customer service and plenty of attention to detail, this hotel has lots going for it. In fact, about the only downside we could come up with was its location, 3km north of town and on a busy junction. There’s an in-house restaurant.

low-key, walk-in birdwatching treks. Around 374 bird species have been recorded in the park, including such rarities as the whiterumped vulture (which may now be extinct in the park), greater spotted eagle and the white-winged duck. Of the big mammals, wild elephants are present as are numerous deer species and a few rarely seen tigers. However, for many mammal-spotting naturalists, the park’s most exciting resident is the critically endangered dwarf hog, which, after many years of absence has recently been returned to the wild thanks to a successful captive breeding project run by the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust (www.durrell.org). Park fees include the compulsory armed guard. Access is from Potasali, 2km oﬀ the Tezpur–Bhalukpong road (turn east at one-house hamlet Gamani, 12km north of Balipara).

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NORTHEAST TOURS

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES A S S A M

The vast majority of foreign tourists visiting the northeast states travel as part of an organised tour, and indeed for four of the states (Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Manipur and Mizoram), independent travel in the normal sense of the word is almost impossible. Instead, the only realistic way of getting permits is to enlist the services of a tour company. Once you have a permit, travelling around independently is not normally a problem, but you’re unlikely to find a tour company who’ll help you get permits without first hiring a car and driver/guide from them, thus making real independent travel in the permit states pretty much impossible. Most tour companies are based in Guwahati and all of the following can organise permits and tours throughout the northeast. » Traveller’s Point (Map p554; %2604018; www.assamtourism.org; Prashaanti Tourist Lodge, Station Rd) If you’re staying only within Assam then Assam Tourism’s commercial booth runs a variety of city- and state-wide tours including day excursions to Hajo via the silk-weaving centre of Sualkuchi.

» Network Travels (Map p554; %2605335; www.networktravelsindia.net; GS Rd; h5am9pm) A highly experienced agency whose operations cover the whole of the northeast with tailor-made and fixed-itinerary tours. Organising permits is a speciality.

» Jungle Travels India (off Map p554; %2667871, 9207042330; www.jungletravelsindia .com; 3b Dirang Arcade, GNB Rd) Another experienced agency covering the entire northeast with tailor-made tours and fixed-date departures. It organises all the permits, but can be slightly disorganised in this regard. With two boats, it runs Brahmaputra cruises (see www.assambengalnavigation.com) for four to 10 nights at US$350 per person per night, and also runs the Bansbari Lodge in Manas National Park. » Rhino Travels (Map p554; %2540666; www.rhinotravels.com; M Nehru (MN) Rd) This agency offers set-date tours in Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. It also offers two- to four-night river cruises.

4 Sleeping & Eating Prices drop at least 30% when Kaziranga National Park closes. In season booking ahead is wise and advance payment is often required. All the better hotels listed here sell ‘Jungle Plan’ packages, which includes full-board accommodation, park entrance fees, a morning elephant safari and an afternoon jeep safari. Unless stated otherwise, the prices we list are for rooms only. TOURIST COMPLEX

There are a number of fairly run-down places to stay within a five-minute walk of the range oﬃce. The following are the best options. Jupuri Ghar HOTEL $$$ (%361-2605335; Guwahati; s/tw ₹2250/2800; a)

Traditional-style cabins set around pleasant, mature gardens in a tranquil setting. It’s well-managed and has an open-air restaurant.

Prashanti Cottage HOTEL $ (%9864575039; d ₹685) Right beside the

ticket office, this ageing place has cheap but fairly clean rooms.

BEYOND THE COMPLEX Wild Grass Resort ECORESORT $$ (%262085; www.oldassam.com; r ₹1900) This de-

lightful and slightly ramshackle ecofriendly resort is so justifiably popular that it doesn’t bother with a sign but carefully labels all the trees instead. Raj-inspired decor makes you feel that the clock has slowed. The dining room serves tasty Indian food. The entrance is opposite the Km373 marker on National Highway (NH) 37. In season, bookings are essential. Diphlu River Lodge HOTEL $$$ (%361-2602223; Guwahati; www.jungletravelsindia .com; jungle plan Indian s/d ₹9000/12,000, foreigner s/d ₹18,000/24,000) Fifteen minutes’ drive

west of the tourist complex, this new lodge, with its chic-rustic feel, is without doubt the most comfortable place to stay in the Kaziranga region. It consists of six bamboo cottages on raised stilts overlooking a river. The rooms have enormous soft beds and the bathrooms sport heavenly rain showers. There’s no sign – look for the dirt track on the left (if travelling from the Guwahati direction) beside the 37 marker post.

Iora; the Retreat HOTEL $$$ (%262411; www.kazirangasafari.com; s/d from ₹3300/3900; aiWs) Not quite as discreet

as you may imagine a place named ‘the Retreat’ to be, this vast new place, to the east of the tourist complex, is almost as big as the national park itself, but despite this its deliciously quiet and subtly decorated rooms oﬀer superb value for money. However, if you value a personal service you’d best look elsewhere.

plex, this place consists of an old villa with a colonial look and feel, and a series of comfortable cottages set around gorgeous gardens.

8 Information

Paradise (%9435659461; Solicitor Rd; d ₹300)

isn’t quite as ‘beautiful’ as the manager told us, but at this price you can’t be too hard on the daﬀodil-yellow rooms. Its restaurant (h11am-4pm & 8-9pm) serves excellent-value 10-dish Assamese thalis (from ₹40). The town’s best hotel is the Hotel Herit-

age (%2301839; Solicitor Rd; s/d from ₹478/588; a), which has well-maintained rooms,

Kohora village is closest for Kaziranga’s central range with an obvious Rhino Gate leading to the Kaziranga Tourist complex 800m south. Here you’ll find the range office, elephant-ride booking office (h6-7pm, book the previous night) and jeep rental stand (rental from ₹1200). Pay your fees at the range office before entering the park, 2km north. Fees for Indians/foreigners are: entry fees ₹50/250 per day, cameras ₹50/500, videos ₹500/1000, elephant rides ₹350/1050, and vehicle toll fee ₹150/150 (including an armed escort – a ₹50 tip is customary). There’s an SBI ATM a few hundred metres east of Kohora village centre.

obliging staﬀ and old-fashioned character. Nearby is the New Park (%2300725; Solicitor Rd; s/d from ₹687/880; a), which is a big new hotel with small but tidy rooms and hot showers. The ASTC bus station (AT Rd) has frequent services to Sivasagar (₹35 to ₹45, 1½ hours), Tezpur (₹120 to ₹140, four hours) and Guwahati (₹260, eight hours, eight buses 6am to noon; buses pass Kaziranga en route). The Jan Shatabdi Express (No 2068, AC Chair ₹468, 6¾ hours, 1.55pm Monday to Saturday) is the most convenient of the two trains to Guwahati.

8 Getting There & Away

AROUND JORHAT Tea Estate Getaways

Buses travel to: Guwahati (₹260 to ₹300, five hours, hourly 7.30am to 4.30pm), Dibrugarh (₹260 to ₹300), Tezpur (₹45, two hours) and Shillong (₹450 to ₹600, eight hours).

Upper Assam JORHAT

% 0376 / POP 83,670

Bustling Jorhat is the junction for Majuli Island. Gar-Ali, Jorhat’s commercial street, meets the main east–west thoroughfare – Assam Trunk (AT) Rd (NH37) – in front of a lively central market area. AT Road is also home to an SBI ATM and the Netizen Cyberspace (₹20 per hr; h9am-8pm)

internet cafe. Journey another 200m west of the market along AT Rd, then south to find a small museum (Postgraduate Training College, MG Rd;

TEA ESTATES

After all this huffing and puffing around the Northeast it’s time to relax with a jolly nice cup of tea, don’t you think old chap? And where better to do so than in a colonial-era heritage bungalow on a working tea estate. Bookings are essential. The best of the couple of different options are the tastefully renovated Banyan

Grove (%9954451548; www.heritagetourism india.com; s/d ₹6272/7280; lunch ₹350, dinner ₹450; s). Dating from the late 19th century,

its rooms are crammed with antiques and the drawing room is straight out of a Victorian period drama. It has wonderful lawns and verandas overlooking a tea estate and swimming pool. The site is 7km down rural tracks from Km442 on NH37 (Jorhat– Deragaon Rd). With a classical portico and wide, immaculate lawns, Thengal Manor (%bookings

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ASSAM 8AST TRIBAL STATES U NORTHE 8 PPER ASSAM

Bonhabi Resort HOTEL $$ (%262675; www.bonhabiresort.com; r ₹16002000) A short way east of the tourist com-

admission free; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) with Ahom artefacts and nearby Assam Tourism (h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat) in the good-value Tourist Lodge (%2321579; MG Rd; s/d ₹578/683), which has tiled floors, mosquito nets and enthusiastic staﬀ who know how to use cleaning products. Tucked conveniently behind the Assam State Transport Corporation (ASTC) Bus Station (AT Rd), Solicitor Rd has half a dozen reasonable hotels. The Hotel Janata

562

9954451548; www.heritagetourismindia.com; Jalukanburi; s/d ₹6272/7280; lunch ₹350, dinner ₹450)

For local guiding, accommodation or bicycle hire, contact Jyoti Naryan Sarma

oozes grandeur. Old photos, four-post beds and medal certificates from King George VI add atmosphere to this stately mansion. Thengal is 15km south of Jorhat down MG Rd, towards Titabor.

(%9435657282; jyoti24365@gmail.com, www.majuli tourism.com; per day ₹500).

MAJULI ISLAND

(₹100).

The great muddy-brown Brahmaputra River’s ever-shifting puzzle of sandbanks includes Majuli, which at around 421 sq km (2001 figures) is India’s largest river island (many locals will tell you that Majuli is the world’s largest river island, but in fact this honour belongs to Brazil’s Bananal Island). Size aside, what there is no doubting is Majuli’s sheer beauty. The island is a relaxed, shimmering mat of glowing rice fields and water meadows bursting with flowers. Aside from relishing the laidback vibe that permeates island life, highlights of a visit include birdwatching and learning about neoVaishnavite philosophy at one of Majuli’s 22 ancient satras (Hindu Vaishnavite monasteries and centres for art). If all this makes Majuli sounds like your kind of place then don’t waste time getting there – surveys indicate that at current levels of erosion the island will cease to exist within 20 years. The two main villages are Kamalabari, 3km from the ferry port and Garamur, 5km further north. The most interesting, accessible satras are the large, beautifully peaceful Uttar Kamalabari (1km north, then 600m east of Kamalabari) and Auniati (5km west of Kamalabari), where monks are keen to show you their little museum (Indian/

La Maison de Ananda GUESTHOUSE $ (%9435205539; dm ₹150-200) On a Garamur

% 03775 / POP 140,000

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES A S S A M

foreigner/camera/video ₹5/50/50/200; h9.3011am & 12-4pm) of Ahom royal artefacts. The

best chances of observing chanting, dances or drama recitations are around dawn and dusk or during the big Ras Mahotsav Festival (third week of November).

4 Sleeping & Eating As well as the options listed below, many of the sutras have very basic guesthouses

back lane, this French-owned traditionally styled thatched house on bamboo stilts has rooms decked out in locally made fabrics, which give it a hippie-chic atmosphere. It’s probably the best value-for-money lodgings on the island.

Ygdrasill Bamboo Cottage GUESTHOUSE $$ (%9401625744; r ₹1200) Around a kilometre

before Garamur (on the road to Kamalabari), this thatched hut perches on stilts above a marshy, avian-filled lake. The sound of fish plopping about in the water below your bed and a thousand screaming cicadas (as well as a million marauding mosquitoes – bring repellent!) will lull you to sleep at night. The bamboo beds are comfortable and it’s nicely furnished. They serve a stunning Majuli thali in the evening and a breakfast that might be a bit too local for many tastes! La Villa GUESTHOUSE $ (%9435657282; jyoti24365@gmail.com; r from ₹300) Run by knowledgeable and keen-to-

please Jyoti Naryan Sarma (who also acts as a guide), this Garamur guesthouse has three brightly painted but uninspiring rooms overlooking an open-billed stork roosting site (whose dawn chorus will do away with any need for an alarm clock).

8 Getting There & Away

This windswept sandbank of Nimatighat, pockmarked with chai shacks, is the departure point for photogenically overcrowded ferries to Majuli

SATRAS A satra is a monastery for Vishnu worship, Assam’s distinctive form of everyman Hinduism. Formulated by 15th-century Assamese philosopher Sankardev, the faith eschews the caste system and idol worship, focussing on Vishnu as God, especially in his Krishna incarnation. Much of the worship is based around dance and melodramatic play-acting of scenes from the holy Bhagavad Gita. The heart of any satra is its namghar, a large, simple, prayer hall usually open sided and shaped like an upside-down oil tanker. Beneath the eastern end, an inner sanctum hosts an eternal flame, the Gita and possibly a horde of instructive (but not divine) images.

Island. It’s a 12km-ride from Jorhat by bus (₹20, 40 minutes). Ferries (adult/jeep ₹20/800, 2½ hours) leave Nimatighat at 8.30am, 10.30am, 1.30pm and 3pm; return trips are at 7.30am, 8.30am, 1.30pm and 3pm.

8 Getting Around

SIVASAGAR

% 03772 / POP 64,000

Despite being an oil-service town, Sivasagar exudes a residual elegance from its time as the capital of the Ahom dynasty that ruled Assam for more than 600 years. The name comes from ‘waters of Shiva’, the graceful central feature of a rectangular reservoir dug in 1734 by Ahom Queen Ambika. Three typical Ahom temple towers rise proudly above the tank’s partly wooded southern banks – to the west Devidol, to the east Vishnudol and in the centre, the 33m-high Shivadol Mandir, India’s tallest Shiva temple. Its uppermost trident balances upon an egg-shaped feature whose golden covering the British reputedly tried (but failed) to pilfer in 1823. Around 500m from Shivadol a gaggle of hotels line AT Rd, the most appealing of which is the surprisingly swish Hotel Shiva

Palace (%222629; hotelshivapalace@rediﬀmail .com; s/d from ₹715/825; a), incorporating a decent restaurant, the Sky Chef Restaurant (mains ₹70-180). Hotel Siddhartha (%222276; s/d from ₹500/800; a) is out of town (1.5km), but

otherwise this sparkly place oﬀers great value for backpackers in the cheaper rooms and flashpackers in the swankier rooms. The ASTC bus station (cnr AT & Temple Rds) has frequent services to Jorhat (₹35 to ₹45, one hour), Dibrugarh (₹51 to₹69, two hours), Tezpur (₹189, five hours), Guwahati (₹310 to ₹390, eight hours, frequent from 7am). Many private buses have ticket counters on nearby AT Rd. For Kareng Ghar, use a tempo (₹10, 45 minutes), which depart from an unmarked stop on Bhuban Gogoi (BG) Rd, 300m north up AT Rd, then 50m right. AROUND SIVASAGAR

Dotted around Sivasagar are many lemonsqueezer-shaped temples and ochre-brick

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TALATALGHAR

This famous (but not spectacular) Ahom ruin is 4km down AT Rd from central Sivasagar. Some 2km beyond a WWIIera metal lift-bridge, look right to see the rather beautiful Rang Ghar (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk). From this two-storey oval-shaped ‘pavilion’, Ahom monarchs once watched buﬀalo and elephant fights. Just beyond, a left turning passes the Golaghar or Ahom ammunition store, the stonework of which is held together with a mix of dhal, lime and egg. Beyond are the two-storey ruins of Talatalghar (Indian/ foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk), the extensive, two-storey Ahom palace built by Ahom King Rajeswar Singha in the mid-18th century. KARENGHAR

Dramatic if largely unadorned, this 1752 brick palace (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk) is the last remnant of the Ahom’s pre-Sivasagar capital. The unique four-storey structure rises like a sharpened, stepped pyramid above an attractive forest-and-paddy setting spoilt by nearby electricity substations. It’s 900m north of the Sivasagar–Sonari road: turn just before Gargaon (14km) from Sonari. GAURISAGAR

Like a practice run for Sivasagar, Gaurisagar has an attractive tank and a trio of distinctive 1720s temples – Vishnudol, Shivadol and Devidol – built by ‘dancing girl queen’ Phuleswari. The more impressive is Vishnudol, not as tall as Sivasagar’s Shivadol but sporting finer, but eroded carvings. Gaurisagar is on the main NH37 at Km501.5. DIBRUGARH

% 0373 / POP 122,000

Travelling to Dibrugarh (‘tea-city’) usefully closes a loop between Kaziranga and the Ziro–Along–Pasighat route and is the terminus (or starting point) for the fascinating ferry ride along the Brahmaputra to Pasighat in Arunachal Pradesh. Dibrugarh is a rapidly growing city with a new road and rail bridge being built at Bogibeel Ghat (originally scheduled to open in 2008, it’s now unlikely to be ready for some years to come) that will extend the railway system to north of the Brahmaputra. Dibrugarh is a reliable place to change money; the SBI Bank (RKB Path) changes travellers cheques and foreign currency and there’s an ATM. Cyber@Generation Next

ASSAM 8AST TRIBAL STATES U NORTHE 8 PPER ASSAM

Jam-packed buses and vans (₹10/20) meet arriving ferries then drive to Garamur via Kamalabari where three-wheelers are easier to rent. For a few days consider arranging a bicycle through Jyoti at La Villa.

ruins built by the Ahom monarchs during their 17th- and 18th-century heyday.

564

(HS Rd; per hr ₹20; h9am-10pm) is one of several internet cafes. Purvi Discovery (%2301120; www.purviweb.com; Medical College Rd, Jalan Nagar)

organises regional tours including culinary tours and multiday horse-riding trips. Purvi also handles bookings for two colonial-era tea bungalow retreats: the delightful 1849

Heritage Chang Bungalow (Mancotta Rd, Mancotta; r ₹6600-7150; aW), 4km from town, and Chowkidinghee Chang Bungalow (Convoy Rd; r ₹6600-7150; aW), 700m from the bus stat-

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES A R U N AC H A L P R A D E S H

ion. At both places, choose the upper rooms that have polished hardwood floorboards and a wonderful heritage feel. For either of these you must book in advance. Tea-estate tours can also be organised between April and November for guests of either bungalow.

Hotel Mona Lisa (%2320416; Mancotta Rd; r ₹600-1500; a), part Africa, part

Cuba and possibly even a little slice of India, is a superb budget hotel with character. It’s set back from the main road and everything is kept ticking along smoothly thanks to the lovely old man running it.

Hotel Rajawas (%2323307; www.hotel rajawas.com; AT Rd; s/d from ₹687/860; ai) is

a new, mirror-fronted hotel with a flowerfilled lobby, cheeky modern art on the walls and decent bathrooms. The deluxe rooms are the best bet (single/double ₹1144/1399). If you’ve just trudged in from the mountains and jungles of Arunachal Pradesh you’ll think its in-house restaurant (mains ₹120-160) is the best thing since sliced bread (or maybe cold dhal). H2O (Mancotta Rd; mains ₹80-120, beers from ₹80) is an upstairs bar-restaurant with ele-

ments of spaceship decor. For a break from the rigours of the Indian road you’ll find a branch of Café Coffee Day on HS Rd.

8 Getting There & Away

From Mohanbari airport, 16km northeast of Dibrugarh and 4km oﬀ the Tinsukia road, JetLite flies to Guwahati, Kolkata and Delhi and IndiGo flies to Guwahati. From the main bus station (Mancotta Rd) both ASTC and private buses depart for Sivasagar (₹51 to ₹69, two hours, frequent 6am to 9am), Jorhat (₹130, three hours, frequent 6am to 9am), Tezpur (₹260, six hours) and Guwahati (₹380, 10 hours). The Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express is the overnight train for Guwahati (No 2423; 3AC/2AC/1AC ₹203/962/1206/1970, 10 hours, 8.15pm). Rough-and-ready DKO Ferries (Indian/ foreigner ₹20/100, vehicle ₹1200; 8.30am & 9.15am) cruise daily to Oriamghat, where the

boat is met by a bus to Pasighat in Arunachal Pradesh. Ferries can carry just two jeeps. There’s little shelter and the journey takes around eight hours (5½ hours downstream), so bring an umbrella, water and sunscreen. The journey can be quite an adventure with the boats bouncing oﬀ the ever-shifting sandbars (and sometimes not bouncing oﬀ them!) and with brief stops en route giving glimpses of isolated riverside hamlets. Exact departure points depend on the Brahmaputra’s water level.

ARUNACHAL PRADESH India’s wildest and least explored state, Arunachal Pradesh, the ‘Land of Dawn-lit Mountains’ is the final frontier in Indian tourism. The state rises abruptly from the Assam plains as a mass of densely forested, and impossibly steep, hills. These in turn rise to fabulous snow-capped peaks along the Tibetan border. At least 25 tribal groups live in Arunachal’s valleys; high up in the dramatic Tawang Valley are several splendid Monpa monastery villages. Arunachal has yet to be fully surveyed and mapped, but slowly its high passes and deep valleys are starting to open up to those with an adventurous heart. China has never formally recognised Indian sovereignty here and it took the surprise Chinese invasion of 1962 for Delhi to really start funding significant infrastructure. The Chinese voluntarily withdrew. These days border passes are heavily guarded by the Indian military and the atmosphere is extremely calm.

Arunachal Tourism (www.arunachaltour ism.com) has additional information.

Itanagar % 0360 / POP 38,000

Built since 1972, Arunachal’s pleasantly green, tailor-made capital is named for the mysterious Ita Fort whose residual brick ruins crown a hilltop above town. There’s a stack of ATMs in Mahatma Gandhi Marg, along with several internet cafes. With an oversized foyer better suited as a car showroom, Hotel Arun Subansiri (%2212806; Zero Point; s/d ₹1100/1320; a) has comfortably large rooms with soft beds. It’s within walking distance of the decent

State Museum (Indian/foreigner/camera/video ₹10/75/20/100; h9.30am-4pm Sun-Thu) and the brightly decorated Centre for Buddhist Culture gompa set in gardens on the hill above.

Some 3km west on Mahatma Gandhi Marg is Ganga Market, landmarked by a red, triple-spired temple and nearby clock tower. The market itself is a busy clash of peoples from across the borderlands as well as piles of colourful fruit and some other decidedly exotic food items. The good-value

Hotel Blue Pine (%2211118; s ₹300-500, d ₹500-600) is here, with well-maintained

AROUND ITANAGAR

The beautifully forested hills around Itanagar hide the attractive Ganga Lake (5km), a local picnic spot. Further away (20km) is Poma village, which is about the closest place to town to see the traditional architecture of bamboo longhouses (although many of these are being slowly replaced with concrete box houses).

Central Arunachal Pradesh ZIRO VALLEY % 03788

After weaving for hour upon hour along a road suﬀocated by a wall of dense forest, it comes as something of a surprise when the

(%9402048466/8014012558; christopherdulley@ yahoo.co.in/christophermichi@hotmail.com) is the

chairman of the Apatani Cultural Preservation Society and can organise superb visits to the villages – don’t be at all surprised if your tour culminates in an evening of drinking rice wine and chowing down on barbequed rat in a villager’s house! Sprawling Hapoli (New Ziro), starting 7km further south than Ziro, has hotels and road transport. Just below the Commissioner’s oﬃce on a bend in MG Rd is an SBI ATM. There are a couple of internet cafes around the market area but connections are as rare as a tiger in the nearby forests. The small central market is well worth poking about in. As well as fruit, veg and clothing you can stock up on various insects and other ‘delights’ to snack on.

CENTRAL ARUNACHAL’S TRIBAL GROUPS The variety of tribal peoples in central Arunachal Pradesh is astonishing, but although the Adi (Abor), Nishi, Tajin, Hill Miri and various other Tibeto-Burman tribes consider themselves diﬀerent from one another most are at least distantly related. Over the last few decades Christian missionaries have been highly active throughout the Northeast and in the process have brought huge changes to the region’s traditional cultures, religious beliefs and ways of life. Despite this, some aspects of the traditional lifestyle are just about holding on and many people continue to practise the traditional religion of Donyi-Polo (sun and moon) worship – sometimes at the same time as proclaiming themselves Christian. For ceremonial occasions, village chiefs typically wear scarlet shawls and a bamboo wicker hat spiked with porcupine quill or hornbill feathers. A few old men still wear their hair long, tied around to form a topknot above their foreheads. Women favour hand-woven wraparounds like Southeast Asian sarongs. House designs vary somewhat. Traditional Adi villages are generally the most photogenic with luxuriant palmyra-leaf thatching and boxlike granaries stilted to deter rodents.

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ARUNACHAL PR ADESH 8 NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES 8 E N T R A L A R U N AC H A L P R A D E S H C

rooms and a mix of common and private bathrooms. Don’t mind the caged receptionist, he’s quite tame and helpful. The APST bus station (Ganga Market) has services to Guwahati (₹450, 11 hours, 6am) and Pashighat (₹170, 10 hours, 5.30am and 6am). Over the road the Royal Sumo Counter has daily services to Ziro (₹250, four hours, 5.30am and 2.50pm), Along (₹400, about a million hours, 5.30am) and Pasighat (₹300, eight hours, 5.30am).

world bursts open into the flat and fertile Ziro Valley (vale would be a more accurate description) filled with rice fields and dotted with the intriguing villages of the Apatani tribe. Voyaging to the Ziro Valley is one of the undisputed highlights of a trip to Arunachal Pradesh and, though the scenery is stunning and the village architecture fascinating, the voyeuristic main attraction here is meeting the friendly older Apatani folk who sport facial tattoos and nose plugs that would be the envy of any tattooist in the West (see p566). The most authentic Apatani villages are Hong (the biggest and best known), Hijo (more atmospheric), Hari, Bamin and Dutta; none of which are more than 10km apart. It’s vital to have a local guide to take you to any of these villages otherwise you won’t see much and might even be made to feel quite unwelcome. Christopher Michi

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The warren-like Hotel Pine Ridge (%224725; MG Rd; s/d from ₹350/500), in a

courtyard oﬀ the main road, is reasonable value, but foreigners are often restricted to the more expensive rooms.

Hotel Blue Pine (%224812; s ₹650, d from ₹500) is the best-value lodgings in the town

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES A R U N AC H A L P R A D E S H

itself (though it’s still a bit of a walk from the centre). It has wood-panelled rooms with plenty of character. Out of town, and by far the best place to stay, is the new Ziro Valley Resort (%9856910173; Biiri village; r in old wing ₹1000, tw/d ₹1200/1500), which has rainbow-coloured rooms in a faux colonial–style building. It’s halfway between Old and New Ziro and is surrounded by sunburnt fields. It’s also known as the Village Tourist Lodge. At the time of research another midrange resort style place was under construction near the Ziro Valley Resort. Sumos depart from MG Rd, Hapoli (near SBI ATM), for Itanagar (₹250, five hours, 5am and 11am), Lakhimpur (₹200, four hours) and Daporijo (₹350, around 9.30am). ZIRO TO PASIGHAT

A peaceful lane winding through forested hills and tribal settlements links Ziro to Pasighat via Along. Highlights are dizzying suspension footbridges and thatched Adi villages around Along. Do be warned though that the attractions along this route are very low-key, the villagers around Along are much less welcoming to foreigners (and they don’t sport the Apatanis’ tattoos and nose plugs) and the route, which involves three full days of travel, is very tiring. Unless you’re going to be heading from Along to fabulous Mechuka or remote eastern towns and valleys such as Tuting or the Namdapha National Park then you may find this route something of a let down. DAPORIJO % 03792 / POP 15,468 / ELEV 699M

This is probably the dirtiest and most unsophisticated town in Arunachal Pradesh, but

it is a necessary stopover. In the town itself is the Hotel Kanga Karo Palace (%223531; r ₹750), which is brand new but already looks like its on its last legs. Even so it’s still a damn sight better than the couple of ultrabasic places around the market. If you have your own transport, far more interesting accommodation is available in the small, traditional thatched village of Ligu (coming from Ziro take the left turning just before the bridge at the entrance to Daporijo) where you’ll find the basic, but delightful Ligu Tourist Resort (%223114; r ₹700). The family who run it cook up fantastic meals. Vanishing under the shadow of jungle trees, Ligu village itself is well worth exploring and the people are truly lovely. Sumos leave New Market at 6am for Itanagar (₹450, 12 hours) and Ziro (₹300, six hours). The bus station has a lackadaisical 7am service to Along (₹150, six hours) on alternate days – depending on when the bus returns from Along. ALONG % 03783 / POP 20,000 / ELEV 302M

This nondescript market town has an internet cafe, Eastern Infotech Cyber Cafe

(Nehru Chowk; per hr ₹40; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat) opposite the APST bus station and an SBI ATM (Main Rd). Next to the Circuit House,

also on Main Rd, is an informative little

district museum (admission free; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri).

The best accommodation option here is

Aagaam Hotel (%223640; Nehru Chowk; s/d from ₹400-500), which has rooms that could

almost be called plush. The attached restaurant, Pizza Coffee Day (mains ₹80-100, pizzas ₹80-150) is the best place in town to eat and yes, it really does sell pizzas – of a sort. Another option is the Hotel Holiday Cottage (%222463; Hospital Hill; r ₹400-600) southwest of the helipad. However, it’s not a cottage and nor is it the sort of place you’d really

FACIAL TATTOOING Historically famous for their beauty, Apatani women were all too often kidnapped by warriors of the neighbouring Nishi tribes. As a ‘defence’, Apatani girls were deliberately defaced. They were given facial tattoos, like graﬃtied beards scribbled onto living Mona Lisa paintings, and extraordinary nose plugs known as dat fitted into holes cut in their upper nostrils. Some men also have tattoos. Peace with the Nishis in the 1960s meant an end to that brutal practice, but many older women still wear dat. Photography is an understandably sensitive issue, so ask first. Some Apatani women have had cosmetic surgery to remove their tattoos.

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THE LAST SHANGRI LA?

want to spend an entire holiday. For one night though it does just fine. There are sumos to Itanagar (₹400, 12 hours, 5.30am) and Pasighat (₹220, seven hours, 5.30am and 11.30am). For Daporijo you have the relative luxury of a bus (₹160; six hours, 7am). Of the various Adi villages around Along, Kabu (2km north of Along) is the best known and most easily accessible. Before entering the village you must seek permission from the headman (who often demands a ₹500 fee). As well as admiring the spectacular longhouse architecture that is a hallmark of all Adi villages don’t miss the terrifying cable-trussed but bamboo-decked wobbly suspension bridge over the river. Fortunately for vertigo suﬀerers a modern metal bridge has just been completed, which makes crossing the river slightly less sickening. It remains to be seen if the old bridge will be maintained or not. There are further interesting, and less visited, Adi villages on the road to Pasighat, but whichever village you visit be discreet with cameras as the locals aren’t at all keen on them. PASIGHAT

% 0368 / POP 23,000

Nestled before a curtain of luxuriantly forested foothills, Pasighat, which sits back out on the plains, feels more like Assam than Arunachal Pradesh. The town hosts the interesting Minyong-Adi tribe’s Solung Festival (1-5 September). The internet cafe (per hr ₹60; h7.30am-8pm) is 50m from the Hotel Aane and there’s an SBI ATM just along from the sumo stand in the central market area. Sleep at the friendly, central Hotel Oman (%2224464; Main Market; s/d from ₹315/630),

the owners of which have realised that it is possible to buy new tins of paint – a fairly revolutionary thought for many hotels in the northeast. Otherwise try the plusher Hotel Aane (%2222777; s ₹500, d from ₹1500; a), which has hot showers and an appealing

rooftop terrace.

8 Getting There & Away

Helicopters from Pasighat Aerodrome, 3km northeast, serve Naharlagun (Itanagar) via Mohanbari (Dibrugarh) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday; Guwahati via Naharlagun on Tuesday; and Along on Friday. The inconveniently located APST bus station (take an autorickshaw) has services to Along (₹220, seven hours, 6am and 12pm) and Itanagar (₹170, 10 hours, 5.30am and 6am). Sumos run to Along (₹220, seven hours, 6am and noon) and Itanagar (₹300, six hours, 6am). The road to Along is in a dreadful state – be prepared for a very long and rough day. Sumos also run to Tuting (₹800) but only when demand warrants it. Ferries (Indian/foreigner ₹20/100, vehicle ₹1200; 8.30am & 9.15am) drift lazily down the Brahmaputra to Dibrugarh in Assam from Majerbari Ghat (sumos take one hour from Pasighat, depart at 6am and cost ₹120). Ferry tickets are sold by Otta Tours & Travel at the sumo stand.

Western Arunachal Pradesh Remote, culturally magical and scenically spectacular, Tawang is the archetypical Shangri La and a mountain-hopping journey through this, the lands of the Monpa (a people of Buddhist-Tibetan origin) to the gates of the famous Tawang Monastery is one of the northeast’s greatest adventures.

ARUNACHAL PR ADESH 8 NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES 8 ESTERN ARUNACHAL PRADESH W

Recently the government of Arunachal Pradesh has opened up a couple of new areas to foreign tourists. Possibly the most exciting of these is the road from Along to the small, remote town of Mechuka, close to the Tibetan border. In the past the Mechuka valley, which until recently had no real road connecting it to the rest of the state, was called ‘the forbidden valley’ or even a ‘Last Shangri La’. Populated by the Buddhist Memba peoples, Mechuka, sitting on the banks of the West Siang River, lives up to its Last Shangri La status and is notable for both the 400-year-old Samten Yongcha Monastery and the stunning landscapes surrounding the town, which culminate in a massive hulk of snowdraped mountains running along the border. For the moment tourist facilities (and tourists!) remain virtually non-existent but sumos now ply the 180km from Along (₹300, seven hours, 5.30am). The only accommodation is the Circuit House, but if that is unavailable then it’s likely that local people will put you up – be generous in your donation.

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Ideally budget at least one week for a return trip from Guwahati (or Tezpur), breaking the journey each way at Dirang (allow one full day here) or less interesting Bomdila. Be prepared for intense cold in winter. BOMDILA

03782 / ELEV 2682M

Bomdila is an alternative sleeping place to Dirang, with the traditionally decorated

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES A R U N AC H A L P R A D E S H

Doe-Gu-Khill Guest House (%223232; r from ₹700), just below the large monastery, providing fabulous views. The Hotel Tsepal Yangjom (%223473; www.hoteltsepalyangjom .co.in; s/d from ₹800/1200) in the market area

is probably the town’s most popular hotel. Its wood-panelled rooms have a vague Scandinavian feel and it has a generator to cope with the frequent blackouts. DIRANG

% 03780 / ELEV 1621M

Tiny Old Dirang, 5km south of Dirang, is a picture-perfect Monpa stone village. The main road separates its rocky mini citadel from a huddle of picturesque streamside

houses above which rises a steep ridge topped with a timeless gompa. Heading the other way, just north of New Dirang, the valley opens out and its floor becomes a patchwork of rice and crop fields through which gushes the icy blue river. A fun day could be spent walking along the footpaths between fields and little hamlets. All Dirang’s commercial services are in New Dirang, with a strip of cheap hotels, eateries and sumo counters around the central crossroads. Tourist Lodge (%200176; d ₹825), a kilometre south and overlooking New Dirang, is a basic but friendly family hotel in an old-style hill house crowded with potted plants. Nicer is the next-door Hotel Pemaling (%207265; s/d ₹1815/2420), which has shiny rooms, excellent service and a very pleasant garden where you can enjoy the views towards the sometimes snow-bound Se La and the high Himalaya beyond. DIRANG TO TAWANG VALLEY

The road endlessly zigzags sharply upward, eventually leaving the forest behind. Se La, a 4176m pass, breaches the mountains and

RAFTING IN THE LAND OF MILK AND HONEY Another newly opened route is the Pasighat to Tuting road. This route is all about two things: the River Siang and the mysterious Buddhist land of Pemako. Tuting, which sits near the Tibetan border, is the point at which the Tsang Po river – having left the Tibetan plateau and burrowed through the Himalaya via a series of spectacular gorges – enters the Indian subcontinent and becomes the Siang (once it reaches the plains of Assam it turns into the Brahmaputra). Tuting and the River Siang are starting to gain a reputation as one of the world’s most thrilling white-water rafting destinations, but this ain’t no amateurs’ river. The few people who have descended the river have reported that the 180km route is littered with numerous grade 4-5 rapids, strong eddies and inaccessible gorges. For those after adventure of a diﬀerent kind Tuting also serves as the launch pad for searching out the legendary Buddhist land of Pemako. You will, however, need more than this guidebook and a compass in order to find it. Buddhist belief says that Pemako is a synonym for a hidden earthly paradise and that it’s the earthly representation of Dorje Pagmo, a Tibetan goddess. It was said that this land of milk and honey was to be found in the eastern Himalaya and that to reach it you had to pass behind an enormous hidden waterfall. For hundreds of years outsiders knew that the Tsang Po river left Tibet and entered a huge, and utterly impenetrable, gorge before emerging from the Himalaya around Tuting, but what happened to the river inside that gorge was unknown until the 1950s. As it turned out the river did indeed tumble over an enormous waterfall and, what’s more, it passed through a rich and fertile valley populated by Memba Buddhists, completely isolated from the rest of the world. Today, this vast region of northern Arunachal Pradesh and parts of south eastern Tibet remains almost utterly unknown to the outside world, but Pemako is out there and for those willing to endure days of incredibly tough hiking (and deal with reams of paperwork) it is possible to visit.

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NAMDAPHA NATIONAL PARK

provides access to Tawang Valley. From here the road plummets down the mountainside into the belly of Tawang Valley. TAWANG VALLEY % 03794 / ELEV 3048M

Calling the Tawang Valley a valley just doesn’t do justice to its incredible scale; it’s more a mighty gash in the earth ringed by immense mountains. Patchworking the sloping ridges of the lower hills is a vast sweep of fields dotted with Buddhist monasteries and Monpa villages. The biggest attraction is magical Tawang Gompa (admission free, camera/video ₹20/100;

hdawn-dusk)

backdropped by snow-speckled peaks. Founded in 1681, this medieval citadel is reputedly the world’s second-largest Buddhist monastery complex and famed in Buddhist circles for its library. Within its fortified walls, narrow alleys lead up to the majestic and magnificently decorated prayer hall containing an 8m-high statue of Buddha Shakyamuni. Come here at dawn (4am to 5am) to see row after row of monks performing their early morning prayers. Across the central square is a small but interesting museum (₹20; h8am-5pm) containing images, robes, telescopic trumpets and some personal items of the sixth Dalai Lama. Spectacular chaam (ritual masked dances performed by some Buddhist monks

in gompas to celebrate the victory of good over evil, and of Buddhism over pre-existing religions) are held during the Torgya, Losar and Buddha Mahotsava festivals. Other enchanting gompas and anigompas (nunneries) oﬀer great day hikes from Tawang, including ancient if modest Urgelling Gompa where the sixth Dalai Lama was born. By road, it’s 6km from Tawang town but closer on foot downhill from Tawang Gompa. At the time of research construction was almost complete on a chasm-spanning cable car that will link the monastery with an anigompa on the opposite side of the valley. There was no information available on whether it would be open to tourists. Tawang town is a transport hub and service centre for the valley’s villages; its setting is more beautiful than the town itself. Nonetheless, colourful prayer wheels add interest to the central old market area. These are turned by apple-cheeked Monpa pilgrims, many of whom sport traditional black yakwool gurdam (skullcaps that look like giant Rastafarian spiders). In the market area is M/S Cyber (per hr ₹30; h9am-6pm), which has internet – sometimes. There’s an SBI Bank with an ATM just past the market on the road to the monastery. Tawang has a number of small hotels. Cheapest is the Hotel Nefa (%222419;

ARUNACHAL PR ADESH 8 NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES 8 ESTERN ARUNACHAL PRADESH W

Arunachal Pradesh is said to contain fifty percent of India’s bio-diversity. In fact, so rich is life in Arunachal that the whole area has been proclaimed a world bio-diversity hotspot. Nowhere is the gathering of habitats and plant and animal species so dense as in eastern Arunachal and it’s here that the staggering Namdapha National Park (Indians/foreigners/cameras/cameras with zoom lens/video ₹10/50/75/400/750) can be found. Covering 1985 sq km this vast park has an altitude range from 200m to 4500m and contains an exceptional diversity of habitats and an equally varied array of wildlife. Namdapha is famous for being the only park in India to have four big cat species (leopard, tiger, clouded leopard and snow leopard). It’s also a birdwatching hotspot with around 500 species recorded. The park is a long haul from anywhere but it’s slowly opening up to tourism. The access point is the small town of Miao. From here you will need private transport to take you 26km to Deban where the park headquarters are located. Simple accommodation is available in Miao at the Eco-Tourism Guest House (%9436228763; per person Indian/foreigner ₹400/600) or in Deban at the Forest Rest House (%3807-222249; s/d from ₹175/300). To really get into the middle of nowhere you’ll have to stay at one of the campsites inside the park. Bring a tent and all supplies. Porters and guides can be obtained in Miao or Deban. Tour companies in the northeast can help with the logistics of a visit, or UK-based tour company Naturetrek (www.naturetrek.co.uk) runs pioneering 16-day tours of Namdapha and other northeastern parks. However you do it, prepare for real adventure.

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s/d ₹700/1300) which has tidy, wood-

panelled rooms with a more reliable electricity supply than many similar places. It’s in the market area. The Hotel Siddhartha (%222515; s ₹750, d ₹1030-1350) has large, carpeted and well-kept rooms that help make it the best of the town-centre options.

Hotel Gakyi Khang Zhang (%224 647; r from ₹1320), a couple of kilometres out

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES N AG A L A N D

of town on the road to the monastery, offers far and away the best rooms in town – colourful sky-blue affairs with polished wooden floors. There’s a decent restaurant (mains ₹80-120) and the staff are great fun. It also has good monastery views, a generator and, most bizarrely, a lounge bar/nightclub complete with throbbing strobe lights! While each of these hotels have good restaurants, the cosy Dragon Restaurant (Old Market; mains ₹60-150) is the town’s best eatery with freshly made local dishes such as churpa (₹150), a fermented cheese broth with fungi and vegetables that tastes much better than it sounds. Also don’t miss the Tibetan tea. An acquired taste if ever there were one.

8 Getting There & Away

From Lumla, 42km towards Zemithang, helicopters (₹3000, two hours, hMon-Sat) fly to Guwahati. APST buses leave Tawang 5.30am Monday and Friday for Tezpur (₹290, 12 hours), calling at Dirang (₹130, six hours), Bomdila (₹170, seven hours) and Bhalukpong (₹240, 10 hours). More frequent public sumos to Tezpur (₹500) depart at dawn.

NAGALAND Draped across the dazzling hills and valleys of the India–Myanmar border regions is Nagaland, an otherworldly place where until very recently some twenty headhunting Naga tribes valiantly fought oﬀ any intruders. Today the south of the state is fairly developed, but in the north, tribesmen in loin cloths continue to live a lifestyle that is normally only seen within the pages of National Geographic magazine.

Dimapur % 03862 / POP 165,782 / ELEV 260M

Nagaland’s flat, uninspiring commercial centre was the capital of a big Kachari kingdom that ruled much of Assam before the Ahoms

showed up. The only reason tourists visit Dimapur is to transfer to Kohima. Of the central hotels de Oriental Dream (%231211; Kohima Rd; r from ₹900; aW) is the smartest option. Air India (%229366, 242441) flies to Kolkata, Guwahati and Imphal. The NST bus station (Kohima Rd) runs services to Kohima (₹65 to ₹75, three hours, hourly) and Imphal (₹400, nine hours, 10am).

Kohima % 0370 / POP 96,000 / ELEV 1444M

Nagaland’s agreeable capital is scattered across a series of forested ridges and hilltops. Avoid Kohima on Sundays as apart from hotels, everything is closed.

1 Sights

War Cemetery HISTORIC SITE (hdawn-dusk Mon-Sat) This immaculate War

Cemetery contains the graves of 1400 British, Commonwealth and Indian soldiers. It stands at the crucially strategic junction of the Dimapur and Imphal roads, the site of intense fighting against the Japanese during a 64-day WWII battle.

Central Market MARKET (Stadium Approach; h6am-4pm) At the fasci-

nating if tiny central market, tribal people sell such ‘edible’ delicacies as borol (wriggling hornet grubs).

State Museum MUSEUM (admission ₹5; h9.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun) The

superbly presented State Museum, 3km north, includes plenty of tableaux with mannequins-in-action depicting diﬀerent traditional Naga lifestyles plus everyday tools.

4 Sleeping & Eating Accommodation becomes extremely scarce for kilometres around during the Hornbill Festival – book well in advance.

oHeritage Hotel

HERITAGE HOTEL $$

(%9774416649; www.theheritage.in; Oﬃcers Hill; r/ ste ₹1800/3500; W) Back in colonial days this

was the home of the deputy commissioner and, with roaring open fires taking the chill oﬀ a cold winter night and hunting trophies and tribal arts adorning the walls, it retains something of the flavour of those times. Aradura Inn GUESTHOUSE $$ (%2241079; aradurainn@gmail.com; Aradura Hill; r from ₹1350; i) This fantastic new guesthouse

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HORNBILL FESTIVAL Nagaland’s biggest annual festival, the Hornbill Festival (1-7 December) is celebrated at Kisama Heritage Village (see below) with various Naga tribes converging for a weeklong cultural, dance and sporting bash, much of it in full warrior costume. Of all the festivals in the northeast this is the most spectacular and photogenic. Simultaneously, Kohima also hosts a rock festival (www.hornbillmusic.com).

Tribal Discovery (% 9436000759, 9856474767; yiese _neitho@rediffmail.com; Science College Rd) Neithonuo Yeise (‘Nitono’) is an eloquent guide to local sites and can arrange permits.

Razhu Pru HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%2290291; Mission Compound, Kohima Village; d from ₹1800; aW) An old family house that’s

The NST bus station (Main Rd) has services to: Dimapur (₹65-75, three hours, hourly Monday to Saturday, 8am Sun) Mokokchung (₹105-155, seven hours, 6.30am Monday to Saturday) Imphal (₹150, six hours, 7.30am) The taxi stand opposite has share taxis to Dimapur (₹150, 2½ hours). A car for a day out to Kisama and Khonoma costs ₹800 to ₹1000.

been lovingly converted into a heritage hotel filled with tribal arts and antiques. We thought the sleek white deluxe rooms (₹2200) oﬀered the best value.

Hotel Pine HOTEL $ (%2243129; d ₹ from 500/600) Down a side

lane oﬀ Phool Bari this small hotel is centrally located, well kept and the cleaners actually seem to take pride in their job. Arudupa Spur Cafe MULTICUISINE $$ (Arudupa Hotel; mains ₹120-160; hMon-Sat) Part

of the Arudupa Hotel, this is one of Kohima’s most happening restaurants and is always busy with young middle-class Nagas relaxing on the sofas and tucking into a menu that spans the globe. There’s a cool soundtrack playing in the background and lots of heaters for cold winter nights. Dream Café CAFE $ (Cnr Dimapur & Imphal Rds; mains ₹50-100; h10am-6pm, Mon-Sat) Beneath UCO Bank

and with daily lunch specials such as fried noodles or pizzas as well as coﬀee and snacks, this is the meeting point for Kohima’s young people. Great views from the back windows, a bunch of magazines to read and lots of students keen for a chat make this a good place to linger.

8 Information

NIIT Internet Cafe (opp NST bus station; per hr ₹30; h6.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) The internet cafe with the longest opening hours. SBI Bank (Police Bazar) One of several ATMs. Secretariat, Home Department (%2221406; Secretariat Bldg) Permit extensions.

8 Getting There & Away

Around Kohima KISAMA HERITAGE VILLAGE This open-air museum (admission ₹50; h8am-6pm May-Sep, 8am-4.30pm Oct-Apr),

which hosts the annual Hornbill Festival, has a representative selection of traditional Naga houses and morungs (bachelor dormitories) with full-size log drums. Kisama is 10km from central Kohima along the wellsurfaced Imphal road.

KHONOMA

This historic Angami-Naga village was the site of two major British–Angami siege battles in 1847 and 1879. Built on an easily defended ridge (very necessary back in headhunting days), Khonoma looks beautifully traditional. There are several simple homestay guesthouses in the village. TUOPHEMA

Forty-five kilometres north of Kohima is the small town of Tuophema, which can make a useful overnight stop on the road to Mon if you leave Kohima late in the day. Although the town itself is nothing special, the

Tuophema Tourist Village (%9436005002; per person half-board ₹1600-1800), where you

NAGAL AND NORTHE AST8TRIBAL STATES A 8 R O U N D KO H I M A

has simple yet immaculate rooms. It’s the little touches that set it apart from the competition, such as cups of tea brought to you in bed in the morning. There are great views over the town from the garden, friendly and helpful staﬀ and a superb restaurant.

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sleep in comfortable traditionally styled Naga thatched bungalows, is very enjoyable, but make sure you let them know of your arrival in advance or it will probably be closed up.

Kohima to Mon Beautiful forested hillsides flank the road from Kohima to Mon. Road conditions often require you to travel some of the way through Assam. NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES N AG A L A N D

MOKOKCHUNG

Sitting almost halfway between Kohima and Mon most people sensibly choose to break their journey in laidback Mokokchung. Aside from enjoying the town’s spectacular setting, try to make time for a couple of other low-key attractions including the small, privately run Rendikala Subong Museum (Town Hall Rd; admission ₹10), which contains tribal items collected from surrounding villages as well as what is purported to be the world’s smallest Bible. The museum is open whenever someone turns up to see it. A couple of kilometres away is pretty Ungma village, where you’ll find a couple of huge log drums and a cloud scrapping Jendong (a pole that helps connect people on Earth with the Gods high up in the skies).

Tourist Lodge (%0369-2226373; tourist.lodgemkg@yahoo.com; r ₹750, without bath ₹400; aiW), The only place to stay worth

considering is the superb Tourist Lodge, which has bright and clean rooms, excellent service and a decent restaurant serving Indian and Naga dishes.

Northern Nagaland Northern Nagaland, the most unspoiled part of the state, is the reason you came to Nagaland. This rugged and divinely beautiful country is home to many diﬀerent villages composed of thatched longhouses, many of whose inhabitants are adorned with tattoos and continue to live a fairly traditional hunting and farming lifestyle. The most accessible villages are the Konyak settlements around Mon. Traditional houses abound, and some villages have morungs and religious relics from pre-Christian times. Village elders may wear traditional costume and Konyak of all ages carry the fearsome-looking dao – a crude machete used for headhunting right up until the mid-20th century. Visiting a Naga village without a local guide is unproductive – there will be language diﬃculties and you’ll be unaware of local cultural expectations. MON

The impoverished hill town of Mon is in a gorgeous setting but feels like a frontier town. There’s an SBI ATM in the town centre but don’t rely on it working. The little village market is well worth exploring and like so many markets in the northeast, it’s the exotic food items that stick longest in the memory. Of the numerous tribal villages in the area the closest is Old Mon village, a mere 5km from town. Tamgnyu village (13km) is a rarely visited, yet easy to reach, village with a friendly headman, a couple of human skulls left over from headhunting days and

HEAD HUNTERS Throughout northeastern India and parts of western Myanmar the Naga tribes were long feared for their ferocity in war and for their sense of independence – both from each other and from the rest of the world. Intervillage wars continued as recently as the 1980s, and a curious feature of many outwardly modern settlements is their ‘treaty stones’ recording peace settlements between neighbouring communities. It was the Naga’s custom of headhunting that sent shivers down the spines of neighbouring peoples. The taking of an enemy’s head was considered a sign of strength, and a man who had not claimed a head was not considered a man. Fortunately for tourists, headhunting was oﬃcially outlawed in 1935, with the last recorded occurrence in 1963. Nonetheless, severed heads are still an archetypal artistic motif found notably on yanra (pendants) that originally denoted the number of human heads a warrior had taken. Some villages, such as Shingha Changyuo in Mon district, still retain their ‘hidden’ collection of genuine skulls. Today Naga culture is changing fast, but it was not a government ban on headhunting that put an end to this tradition but rather the activities of Christian missionaries. Over 90% of the Naga now consider themselves Christian.

MANIPUR This ‘Jewelled Land’ is home to Thadou, Tangkhul, Kabul, Mao Naga and many other tribal peoples, but the main grouping is the predominantly neo-Vaishnavite Meitei. Manipuris are famed for traditional dances, spicy multidish thalis and the sport of polo – which they claim to have invented. Manipur’s forested hills provide cover for rare birds, drug traﬃckers and guerrilla armies, making it by far the Northeast’s most dangerous state. Permit conditions usually restrict foreigners to Greater Imphal although this

represents more a zone of safety rather than a geographical area. Most foreigners fly into Imphal; it is also possible to drive in from Kohima (Nagaland) or Silchar (Assam) if you have a guide. Travelling east of Kakching towards the Myanmar border is not permitted.

573

Imphal % 0385 / POP 234,958

Noisy and polluted it might be, but Imphal, with its melange of peoples and positioning right on the border lands of India and southeast Asia is undeniably fascinating and travellers who spend any time here are well rewarded. The airport is 9km to the southwest.

1 Sights

Kangla PARK (admission ₹2; h9am-4pm Nov-Feb, 9am-5pm Mar-Oct) Fortified Kangla was the oﬀ-and-

on-again regal capital of Manipur until the Anglo-Manipuri War of 1891 saw the defeat of the Manipuri maharaja and a British takeover. Entrance is by way of an exceedingly tall gate on Kanglapat. The interesting older buildings are at the rear of the citadel guarded by three restored large white kangla sha (dragons).

Manipur State Museum MUSEUM (Oﬀ Kangla Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹3/20; h10am4pm Tue-Sun) Manipur State Museum has

REGISTERING ON ARRIVAL IN MANIPUR On arrival at Imphal airport all foreigners must register with the police stationed next to the luggage collection point. You must then register again with the CID at the main police station. In both cases it’s a fairly painless aﬀair (assuming your papers are in order). Technically you don’t need a local guide if you are just staying in Imphal, but it’s highly unlikely that any tour company will help you obtain a permit without you agreeing to take one of their guides. A reliable tour company (who can also help obtain permits) to Manipur is Seven Sisters Tourism Services (%2445373; sstourism@redif fmail.com; MG Ave, Imphal).

MANIPURAST S I GTRIBAL HTS NORTHE STATES ISMI GPHHTASL

some impressive traditional buildings all set, surreally, under two giant mobile phone towers. Shingha Chingyuo village (20km, population 5900) has a huge longhouse decorated with mithuna (pairs of men and women) and deer skulls, three stuﬀed tigers, and a store of old human skulls. Longwoa (35km) is spectacularly sited on the India –Myanmar border, with the headman’s longhouse actually straddling the two nations. Despite its popularity with tourists it remains one of the most interesting villages. Chui (8km) includes an elephant skull in its longhouse collection. Shangnyu village has a shrine full of fertility references such as tumescent warriors, a crowing cock, a large snake, a man and woman enjoying sex and, to complete the picture, a double rainbow. Langmeang village, with its stack of human skulls piled up in a wooden box, is also highly impressive. In more touristy villages such as Longwoa and Shingha Chingyuo a fairly standard ₹200 photo fee is charged. For many a year accommodation in Mon meant the friendly, but sadly very scrappy and slightly overpriced Helsa Cottage (%9436433782; r from ₹1000) run by Aunty. At the time of research Aunty was about to shut the old place down and open a new (as yet unnamed) hotel near the market area. Another venture is the confusingly named Helsa Resort (%9436000028; r ₹1000), a couple of kilometres out of town on the road to Myanmar. It consists of four traditional thatched Konyak huts with springy bamboo floors, sparse furnishings and hot water by the bucket. Its generator is a huge plus. All the accommodation options serve meals. Buses, if you can call them that, bounce painfully to Dimapur (₹450, 13 hours, 3pm) and Sonari in Assam (₹60).

574

a marvellous collection of historical, cultural and natural history ephemera. Tribal costumes, royal clothing, historical polo equipment, stuﬀed carnivores in action and pickled snakes compete with a two-headed calf for the attention of visitors.

ture, friendly management and possession of a vacuum cleaner characterise this acceptable hotel. Hot water flows from 6am to 11am, thereafter by a free bucket-load.

Shri Govindajee Mandir & HINDU TEMPLE Around The 1776-built Shri Govindajee Mandir,

friendly place with an ultra quick-service restaurant, although it doesn’t open until 10am so breakfast has to be by room service. The rooms are nothing special but you do feel a sense of belonging when staying here.

Hotel Nirmala HOTEL $ (%2459014; MG Ave; s/d from ₹390/650; a) A

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES M I ZO R A M

with two rather suggestive domes, is a neoVaishnavite temple with Radha and Govinda as the presiding deities. Afternoon puja (oﬀerings, prayers) is for one hour at 4pm in winter and 5pm in summer. Adjacent to the mandir is the Royal Palace, closed to visitors except for during the annual Kwak Tenba festival, when a colourful procession led by the titular maharaja heads to the Polo Ground for religious ceremonies and cultural festivities. The festival takes place on the fourth day of Durga Puja.

Internet Cafe (MG Ave; per hr ₹20; h8am7pm Mon-Sat) SBI ATM (MG Ave) About 100m from Hotel Nirmala. Note that the few ATMs in Imphal tend to have enormous queues of people waiting to use them. It’s better to bring enough cash with you. Tourist office (%224603; http://manipur.nic. in/tourism.htm; Jail Rd)

Khwairamband Bazaar MARKET (Ima Market; h7am-5pm) This vast all-women’s

8 Getting There & Away

market (well, we saw one male vendor – perhaps appropriately he was selling headphones!) is run by some 3000 ima (mothers). Divided by a road, one side sells vegetables, fruit, fish and groceries while the other deals in household items, fabrics and pottery. It’s easily one of the largest markets in the northeast.

Imphal War Cemetery HISTORIC PARK (Imphal Rd; h8am-5pm) This peaceful and well-

kept memorial contains the graves of more than 1600 British and Commonwealth soldiers killed in the battles that raged around Imphal in 1944. Oﬀ Hapta Minuthong Rd is a separate Indian War Cemetery (h8am-5pm).

4 Sleeping & Eating A state tax adds 30% to your bill. This is included in the prices below.

oClassic Hotel

HOTEL $$

(%2443967; North AOC Rd; s/d from ₹845/1170; aiW) This unexpectedly classy hotel is

one of the best-value business hotels in the northeast. The large spotless rooms come with full facilities, staﬀ who love to please and the town’s best restaurant (mains ₹100 to ₹150). Opt for one of the Classic Standard rooms (s/d₹1885/2470).

Anand Continental HOTEL $$ (%2449422; Khoyathong Rd; s/d from ₹650/1300; a) Smallish rooms, a little too much furni-

8 Information

Private buses to head to Guwahati (₹700, 20 hours, 10am) and Dimapur (₹400, 10 hours, 10am) via Kohima (₹300, five hours). If you’re heading to Aizawl you must change in Dimapur first. All the bus company oﬃces are found on North AC Rd. Air India (%2450999; MG Ave), IndiGo, Jetlite (%2455054) and Kingfisher Red all fly to Guwahati and Kolkata. Air India also flies to Aizawl and Dimapur.

Around Imphal Conjure up an image of a shimmering blue lake broken up into small lakelets by floating ‘islands’ of thick matted weeds. Add bamboo bridges, tribal people in dugout canoes and thatched hut-villages anchored on to the floating islands, and you have Loktak Lake, one of the few places a foreigner is allowed to visit outside of Imphal. More peculiar than floating villages are the large, perfectly circular fishing ponds created out of floating rings of weeds. The best view is atop Sendra Island, more a promontory than island. You can hire a boat (per person ₹100) in order to get a closer look at lake life.

MIZORAM Gorgeous Mizoram is slashed by north-southrunning valleys and might be the most beautiful of all the states in the northeast. You’ll see very few typical Indian faces among the

locals, with their Thai- and Chinese-style features, and most people are Christian. Mizoram runs to its own rhythm. Most businesses open early and shut by 6pm; virtually everything closes tight on Sunday. Mizo culture has no caste distinctions and women appear liberated; in Aizawl girls smoke openly, wear jeans and hang out in unchaperoned posses meeting up with their beaus at rock concerts on the central field.

z Festivals

Aizawl % 0389 / POP 275,000

From a distance Aizawl (pronounced eyezole) seems a painted backdrop to an Italian opera, such is the steepness of the ridge on which it’s perched. Backs of homes at road level might be held there with stilts three times higher than their roofs.

1 Sights

Mizoram State Museum MUSEUM (Macdonald Hill, Zarkawt; admission ₹5; h9.30am5pm Mon-Fri) This museum has interesting

exhibits on Mizo culture. It’s up a steep lane from Sumkuma Point past Aizawl’s most distinctive church, whose modernist belltower spire is pierced by arched ‘windows’.

KV Paradise MONUMENT (Durtlang; admission ₹5; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat) V

is for Varte who died in a 2001 motor accident. K is for her husband Khawlhring who has since lavished his entire savings and energy creating a three-storey mausoleum to her memory. The marble fountain-patio has wonderful panoramic views. The site is 8km from Zarkawt, 1km oﬀ the Aizawl-Silchar road via an improbably narrow dirt lane.

Market MARKET (Mission Veng St) A Saturday street market

sprawls along the street with village women oﬀering fruit, vegetables, maybe a dead pig, fish and live hens in individualised wickerwork carry-away baskets.

Agencies, notably Mizo Holidays and Three Dimension, both in Aizawl, can arrange 10-day permits. Mizoram permit restrictions are perhaps the most lax of the Northeast States. Be sure that all places you wish to visit are on your permit and you should be allowed to go anywhere in the state. Note though that the Kolkata FRO doesn’t grant Mizoram permits.

4 Sleeping Hotels typically add a 10% service charge (included below). Hotel Clover HOTEL $$ (%2305736; www.davids-hotel-clover.com; G-16 Chanmari; s/d from ₹750/1500; iW) Dolly, your

host for the evening, should win an award as one of India’s friendliest hotel receptionists. Rooms are equally friendly and as full of character with colourful, art-adorned walls.

Hotel Arini HOTEL $$ (%2301557; Upper Khatla; s/d from ₹800/1200; W) Only a small red sign announces the Ho-

tel Arini, named after the owner’s daughter. The rooms are cheerily bright and freshlooking, and the staﬀ pleasant and obliging. Choose a back room with a stupendous down-valley view. They have a couple of very basic singles for a mere ₹200.

5 Eating

David’s Kitchen MULTICUISINE $$ (%2305736; Zarkawt; mains ₹80-140; h10am9.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-9.30pm Sun) David’s fine

Mizo, Thai, Indian, Chinese and continental food, mocktails, friendly staff and pleasant decor will please everyone. The views aren’t half bad either. Curry Pot INDIAN $$ (%2324567; Upper Khatla; meals ₹50-120; h10am9pm Mon-Sat) Next door to Hotel Arini, this

place has tasty Indian and Chinese dishes. On Sundays only the hotels and David’s Kitchen will save you from starving.

8 Information

Directorate of Tourism (%2333475; www .mizotourism.nic.in; PA-AW Bldg, Bungkawn)

575

MIZOR AM F E STRIBAL T I VA L S STATES A NORTHE AST F EI ZSAW T I VA L LS

Two main Mizo festivals, Chapchar Kut (Kut is Mizo for festival) and Pawl Kut celebrate elements in the agricultural cycle. Chapchar Kut takes place towards the end of February and signals the start of the spring sowing season, and Pawl Kut is held at the end of November to celebrate the harvest. In both festivals, participants don national costume and celebrate with folk dancing and song.

PERMITS FOR MIZORAM

576

Mizo Holidays (%2306314; to7.puia@gmail.com; Hauva Bldg, Chanmari; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Arranges tourist permits and a variety of statewide tours including some interesting village visits. Net Cyber Cafe (Canteen Sq; per hr ₹30; h9am-6pm) SBI ATM (Raj Bhawan Junction) Three Dimension (%2351867; Zangtui; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Arranges permits, Mizoram tours and even paragliding (₹500).

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES T R I P U R A

8 Getting There & Away

Taxis charge ₹600 and shared sumos charge ₹50 to eﬃcient little Lengpui airport, 35km west of Aizawl. Air India (%2322283) flies to Guwahati, Kolkata and Imphal, while Kingfisher Red goes to Kolkata. Counters for long-distance sumos are conveniently clustered around Zarkawt’s Sumkuma Point. Guwahati (₹750; 28hrs; 6pm, Mon-Sat) Shillong (₹650, 16 hours, 6pm, Mon-Sat) Silchar (₹280, six hours, four daily)

Rural Mizoram Mizoram’s pretty, green hills get higher as you head east. Champhai is widely considered the most attractive district and is where you’ll find the Murlen National Park, known for its hoolock gibbons. The small town of Saitual is a good stopover on the road to Champhai. Very close to Champhai is pretty Tamdil Lake, ringed by lush mountains. Further afield is the stunning Blue Mountain (Phawngpui), which at 2147m is the highest peak in Mizoram. It’s considered by Mizos to be the abode of the Gods, but its slopes are said to be haunted by ghosts. Three Dimension can organise trekking trips here. For a more accessible taste of the Mizoram hinterland visit the Vantawng waterfalls, 95km from Aizawl.

TRIPURA Tripura is culturally and politically fascinating, and the state’s handful of royal palaces and temples draw a growing flow of domestic tourists. For the moment though foreign tourists remain very rare indeed. There’s a large Bangladeshi refugee population in Tripura and much of the more accessible western parts of the state look and feel much like its near neighbour. Foreigners must register with the police on arrival at the airport.

Agartala % 0381 / POP 367,822

Tripura’s low-key capital, with its smalltown atmosphere, feels like an India of yesteryear. The pace of life is much slower than in the towns and cities of the Indian heartlands and people are much more likely to swerve across the street to wish you a good day than to try and sell you something. The old quarter, which centres on the Ujjayanta Palace, has some impressive town gates and pretty tanks and gardens. Durga puja is celebrated with huge pandals (temporary temples built from wood and cloth).

1 Sights

Ujjayanta Palace PALACE (admission ₹5; h5-7pm) Agartala’s indisputable

centrepiece is this striking, dome-capped palace. Flanked by two large reflecting ponds, the whitewashed 1901 edifice was built by Tripura’s 182nd maharaja. It looks particularly impressive floodlit at night, but for security reasons only the gardens are open to the public. Temples

HINDU TEMPLES

Of four Hindu temples around the palace compound, the most fanciful is Jagannath Mandir (h4am-2pm & 4-9pm). Its massive sculptured portico leads into a complex with wedding-cake architecture painted in ice-cream sundae colours. Several royal mausoleums are decaying quietly on the riverbank behind Batala market. To get to them walk west down HGB Rd, turn left at Ronaldsay Rd and right along the riverbank. Chaturdasha Devata Mandir (Temple of Fourteen Deities) hosts a big seven-day Kharchi Puja festival in July in Old Agartala, 7km east down Assam Agartala (AA) Rd (NH44) at Kayerpur. Museums

MUSEUMS

The small Tripura Government Museum

(http://tripura.nic.in/museum/welcome.html; Post Oﬃce Circle; admission ₹2; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) has a variety of tribal displays plus

some interesting musical instruments made from bamboo. The new Tripura State Tribal

Museum (Lake Chowmuhani; admission free; & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) has further

h10am-1pm

displays of tribal dress.

4 Sleeping State taxes add 10% to your bill (included in the prices listed here).

e # 00

ú Eating 6 Abhishek Restaurant...........................A2 Restaurant Kurry Klub .................(see 5)

# Þ

Transport 7 Air India ................................................ B1 8 Motor Stand .........................................B3

LN Bari Rd

Old Thana La 8

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Central Rd

# Þ

Water Tank

Akhaura Rd

Rd ò HGB ñ # # #5 #ÿ â ì #

ÿ Sleeping 4 Hotel Chandana................................... B1 5 Hotel Welcome Palace ........................A3

BK Rd

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577

æ Sights 1 Jagannath Mandir................................A2 2 Tripura Government Museum............A3 3 Ujjayanta Palace .................................. B1

tor Stand Rd

To Interstate Bus Terminal (3km) 3 Santipara

Hotel Chandana HOTEL $ (%2311216; Palace Compound Lane; r ₹210)

Lacklustre but cheap and bearable, the Chandana’s simple rooms have mosquito nets and cold showers.

6 CR Rd

Sakunta la

Jagannath Ba ri Rd (JB Rd)

Mantri Bari Rd

Water Tank

# #6 ð ú

To International Bus Terminal (200m)

æ3 #

#4 ÿ

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6 6 To Ginger & Geetanjali Guest House # (2km) ì

# Þ

Agartala

Ginger HOTEL $$ (%1800 2093333, 2411333; www.gingerhotels .com; Airport Rd; s/d ₹1649/2199; aiW) Part

of the Tata-owned Ginger chain of hotels, this friendly and well-run place has superb rooms with wif-fi, real coﬀee and a small gym. What might be India’s smallest Café Coﬀee Day branch is attached. For the best rates book online in advance.

Geetanjali Guest House HOTEL $$ (%2410009; Airport Rd; d/tw from ₹1650; ai)

Brand new and the only possible competition for the Ginger, which is right opposite, half of this government-run guesthouse is reserved for visiting Ministers, the other half is for nobodies like us. The large, perfect rooms are filled with sunlight and for the moment it’s all very impressive, but as we said it’s government-run so there’s every chance it’ll be allowed to rot away without anyone really caring! Hotel Welcome Palace HOTEL $$ (%2384940; HGB Rd; s ₹500, d ₹700-1200; a)

This hard-to-beat option has helpful Englishspeaking staﬀ, eager room service and superb food. Rooms are neat, although some may not have external windows. It’s by far the most popular of the city centre hotels and is worth booking in advance.

5 Eating

Restaurant Kurry Klub INDIAN $$ (Hotel Welcome Palace, HGB Rd; mains ₹50-200; h10am-10pm) Very tasty food served in a

small dining room whose decor would be rather striking if only the lighting was improved. If you’re staying in the hotel, room service is faster and beers can be acquired.

Abhishek Restaurant INDIAN $ (LN Bari Rd; mains ₹60-100) Reliable food

served either on an inviting outdoor terrace or in a marine-themed dining room with good AC.

8 Information

Axis ATM (Hotel Welcome Palace, HGB Rd) SBI (%2311364; top fl, SBI Bldg, HGB Rd) Changes cash and travellers cheques and has an ATM. Netzone (6 Sakuntala Rd; per hr ₹20; h8am10pm) Best of several closely grouped options. Tripura Tourism (%2225930; www.tripura tourism.in; Swet Mahal, Palace Complex; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 3-5pm Sun) Helpful and enthusiastic with many great-value tours.

8 Getting There & Around

Air India (%2325470; VIP Rd), Spicejet and Jet Airways fly to Kolkata and Guwahati; IndiGo Airlines and Kingfisher fly just to Kolkata. Agartala’s airport is 12km north and a taxi costs ₹225.

TRIPUR AAST E ATTRIBAL ING NORTHE STATES AG E ATAIRNTA G LA

Palace Compound North (VIP Rd) # 7

‚

Lake

‚

To Tripura State Tribal Museum (300m)

200 m 0.1 miles

BK Rd

Agartala

578

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES T R I P U R A

Private bus operators are clustered on LN Bari Rd; others leave from the new Interstate Bus Terminal 3km east of the centre (rickshaw ₹50). Sumos use the Motor Stand (Motor Stand Rd) and South Bus Station (SBS; oﬀ Ronaldsay Rd). Destinations and their respective departure stations for bus and sumo trips are: Guwahati bus (₹660, 24 hours, 6am and noon) Interstate Bus Terminal. Kailasahar sumo (₹88, five hours) South Bus Station. Melagarh (for Neermahal) bus (₹25, 1½ hours); sumo (₹20) South Bus Station. Shillong bus (₹660, 20 hours, 6am and noon) Interstate Bus Terminal. Silchar bus (₹153, 12 hours, 6am) International Bus Station. Udaipur bus (₹26, 1¾ hours); sumo (₹35) South Bus Station. Opposite the TRTC is the International Bus Terminal where Bangladesh Road Transport Corporation’s daily bus departs for Dhaka (₹182, six hours, 12pm).

Around Agartala Southern Tripura’s best-known sights can be combined into a long day trip from Agartala, though sleeping at Neermahal is worthwhile. Any of Agartala’s hotels can arrange a taxi, or you can engage English-speaking Partha Laskar (%09774702908; partha.laskar@rediﬀmail .com) for a day trip in an AC car (₹1300 plus

₹12 per km).

UDAIPUR % 03821

Udaipur was Tripura’s historic capital and remains dotted with ancient temples and a patchwork of tanks. MATABARI

When Sati’s toes fell on Kolkata, her divine right leg dropped on Matabari. This gruesome legend is piously celebrated at the Tripura Sundari Mandir (h4.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-9.30pm), a 1501 Kali temple where

a steady stream of pilgrims make almost endless animal sacrifices that leave the grounds as bloody as the temple’s vivid-red shikhara (Buddhist monastery). Even more people come here at the big Diwali festival (October/November) to bathe in the fishfilled tank by the temple. The temple is 100m east of the NH44, 4km south of Udaipur. A rickshaw from Udaipur costs ₹50.

8 Getting There & Around

Udaipur’s bus stand has quarter-hourly departures to Agartala (₹26, 1¾ hours) and Melagarh (₹15, 45 minutes). NEERMAHAL & MELAGARH % 0381 / POP 21,750

Tripura’s most iconic building, the 1930 Neermahal, is a long, red-and-white water

palace (admission/camera/video ₹10/10/25; h8.30am-4pm, until 4.30pm Apr-Sep), which is

empty but shimmering on its own boggy island in the lake of Rudra Sagar. Like its counterpart in Rajasthan’s Udaipur, this

CROSSING INTO BANGLADESH AT AGARTALA Border Hours The border at Agartala is open from 7am to 6pm.

Foreign Exchange There’s no exchange booth and Agartala banks don’t sell Bangladeshi taka, so changing money is hit and miss; ask local traders or border oﬃcials.

Onward Transport From central Agartala the border is just 3km along Akhaura Rd (₹50 by rickshaw). On the Bangladesh side the nearest town is Akhaura, 5km beyond, reached by ‘baby taxi’ (autorickshaw). From Akhaura trains head to Dhaka, Comilla and Sylhet. Coming eastbound, be sure to pay your Bangladeshi departure tax at a Sonali bank before heading for the border.

Visas Unhelpful, but the northeast’s only Bangladesh visa office (%2324807; Airport Rd, Kunjaban; happlication 9am-1pm Mon-Thu, 9am-noon Fri, collection same day 4pm) hides down a small lane in Agartala, about 2km north of the Ujjayanta Palace.

was a princely exercise in aesthetics; the finest craftsmen building a summer palace of luxury in a blend of Hindu and Islamic architectural styles. The delightful waterborne approach by speedboat (passenger/boat ₹20/400) or fancy rowboat (boat ₹100) is the most enjoyable part of visiting. Boats leave from beside the remarkably decent Sagarmahal Tourist Lodge (%2524418; d from ₹250; a), where most rooms have lake-facing balconies and a good restaurant presides downstairs.

Carved out of Assam in 1972, hilly Meghalaya (Abode of Clouds) is a cool, pine-fresh contrast to the sweaty Assam plains. Set on dramatic horseshoes of rocky cliﬀ above the Bengal plains, Cherrapunjee and Mawsynram are statistically the wettest places on earth. Most of the rain falls between April and September, creating very impressive waterfalls and carving out some of Asia’s longest caves. Eastern and central Meghalaya are mainly populated by the closely related Jaintia, Pnar and Khasi peoples, originally migrants from Southeast Asia. Western Meghalaya is home to the unrelated Garo tribe. Despite their different ethnic backgrounds, these two groups use a matrilineal system of inheritance with children taking the mother’s family name. A good time to be in Meghalaya is when the four day, state-wide, Wangala festival takes place. This Garo harvest festival is renowned for its impressive traditional dancing.

Shillong % 0364 / POP 268,000

This sprawling hill station was the capital of British-created Assam from 1874 until 1972. Since becoming the state capital of Meghalaya it has rapidly developed into a typical modern Indian town and in doing so some of its older buildings have been demolished. In parts it still retains its charm, the air is refreshingly cool and it has become a favourite holiday destination for domestic tourists.

1 Sights & Activities

Ward’s Lake LAKE (admission/camera/video ₹5/10/20; h8.30am5.30pm Nov-Feb, 8.30am-7pm Mar-Oct) Colonial-

era Shillong was planned around this at-

579

and gaggles of geese.

Colonial Shillong

NOTABLE BUILDINGS

The city’s half-timbered architecture has been rather swamped by lots of drab Indian concrete, but areas such as Oakland retain many older houses and even in the centre a few gems remain. The Pinewood Hotel (Rita Rd), a 1920s teagrowers retreat, is particularly representative and looks great at night. The 1902 All Saints’ Cathedral (Kacheri Rd) would look perfect pictured on a biscuit tin. Located nearby, the turreted Das-Roy House (closed to the public) lurks behind a traﬃc circle that harbours five forgotten Khasi monoliths as well as a mini Soviet-style globe monument.

oDon Bosco Museum

MUSEUM of Indigenous Cultures (www.dbcic.org; Sacred Heart Theological College; Indian/foreigner ₹50/150; h9.30am-4.30pm MonSat, 1.30-4.30pm Sun, until 5.30 Apr-Sep) This

very professional museum displays a truly vast, very well laid-out collection of tribal artefacts interspersed just occasionally with gratuitous galleries on Christian missionary work. Tours (compulsory) last over an hour, departing on the half-hour. Wankhar Entomology Museum MUSEUM (Riatsamthiah; Indian/foreigner/camera per photo/ video ₹50/100/10/500; h11am-4pm Mon-Sat)

The memorably named Wankhar Entomology Museum is a remarkable one-room display of pinned butterflies, gruesome rhinoceros beetles and incredible stick-insects in the home of the original collector. Both museums are northwest of the town centre.

Siat Khnam

SPORT

All around Shillong gambling booths offer ‘Forecast’ odds on Siat Khnam. This is a unique ‘sport’. A semicircle of weatherbeaten Khasi men fire hundreds of arrows at a drum-shaped straw target for a set time before a canvas curtain is raised to keep further arrows oﬀ the target. Those that stick in are counted and bets predict the last two digits of this total. It’s eﬀectively a lottery but the shooting is a gently fascinating spectacle. Shoots are usually scheduled at 4pm and 5pm every day, timings can vary somewhat by season. The easy-to-miss Siat Khnam site is a small grassy area approximately opposite the big Nehru Stadium on the south river bank.

MEGHALAST AYA TRIBAL S I G H T S STATES & AC T I V ISTIHIGEI H NORTHE LSLO T SN&G AC T I V I T I E S

MEGHALAYA

tractive lake, with its pretty ornamental bridge, flower beds, coy courting couples

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To All Saints' Cathedral (200m); Khasi Monoliths & Globe Monument (400m); Das-Roy House (450m)

‚

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES M EG H A L AYA

POLICE BAZAAR

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4 Sleeping

Tariﬀs are seasonal and highly negotiable in the low season. During peak periods hotels fill fast, but there are dozens of choices around the Police Bazaar area, so just keep looking. Taxes add a discouraging 20% to your bill (included in the prices listed here).

oHotel Tripura Castle

HISTORIC HOTEL $$$

(%2501111; Cleve Colony; s/d from ₹3600/3720, ste ₹7200; aiW) Tucked away on a wooded

hillside is the distinctively turreted summer villa of the former Tripura maharajas. It’s this private ‘castle’ that features in hotel brochures, but accommodation is actually in a mostly new, if pseudo-heritage building behind. Pine-framed rooms have a gently stylish vibe with period furniture and a level of service that’s hard to beat. For the full maharaja experience opt for a suite. The hotel is 2.5km southeast of the centre.

oRi Kynjai

HOTEL $$$

(%9862420300; www.rikynjai.com; Umiam Lake; r from ₹7200; a) In the local Khasi language ri

kynjai means ‘land of serene environments’ and this divine resort, on the banks of the Umiam lake, 22km from Shillong, is certainly that. Cottages lie scattered about the lush, green gardens and each is impeccably presented with lake views and bathrooms with deep bath tubs. There’s also a spa, a decent restaurant and a bar that’s perfect for sundowners. Silk Route HOTEL $$ (%2503301; www.hotelsilkroute.com; Keating Rd; s/d from ₹1200/1440; W) This small hotel has

memorably colourful rooms kept ship-shape by the enthusiastic cleaners. The stylish bathrooms contain big rain showers. It’s popular, so book ahead. Earle Holiday Home HISTORIC HOTEL $ (%2228614; Oakland Rd; r ₹550-1650) The cheap-

est rooms at this amusingly disorganised

Shillong æ Sights 1 Pinewood Hotel....................................D2 ÿ Sleeping 2 Baba Tourist Lodge.............................A2 3 Earle Holiday Home.............................B2 4 Silk Route .............................................A3

Drinking Cloud 9 ..........................................(see 7) Information 8 Cultural Pursuits Adventures ............. A1 9 Government of India Tourist Office .................................................A2 10 Meghalaya Tourism.............................B2 Transport 11 Deep .....................................................B2 12 Khasi Hills Tourist Taxi Cooperative.......................................B3 13 Network Travels Counter....................A2 14 Shared taxis to Guwahati airport................................................B3

hotel are original half-timbered aﬀairs within a classic 1920 Shillong hill house adorned with sweet little turrets. Pricier rooms in the concrete annexe are less atmospheric but more comfortable. The ₹650 rooms are the best. Baba Tourist Lodge HOTEL $ (%2211285; GS Rd; r ₹500-900) Ageing but

clean, and popular with backpackers, Baba hides behind a deceptively small PCO shop. The best rooms have windows and views out onto greenery. Bucket showers and bucket hot water.

5 Eating & Drinking

La Galerie INDIAN $$ (Hotel Centrepoint, TSS Rd; mains ₹150-200) A

suave restaurant compartmentalised into booths by photographs of local scenes, it oﬀers excellent Indian food. Cloud 9 is the top-floor bar-restaurant serving dainty Thai dishes, cold beers and cocktails. City Hut Dhaba MULTICUISINE $$ (Oakland Rd; mains ₹100-150) Tucked behind

Earle Holiday Home and guarded by

581

Broadway INDIAN, CHINESE $$ (GS Rd; mains ₹60-150) With a a relaxed and

pleasant atmosphere and an impressive array of aquariums full of goldfish, this nononsense restaurant serves a tasty mix of Indian and Chinese meals.

8 Information

Internet Access Techweb (basement Zara’s Arcade, Keating Rd; per hr ₹20; h9am-8.30pm) Money There are many ATMs. SBI (Kacheri Rd) Exchange of foreign currency and travellers cheques; ATM outside. Tourist Information Cultural Pursuits Adventures (% 9436303978; www.culturalpursuits.com; Hotel Alpine Continental, Thana Rd) Experienced agency for caving, trekking, village stays and off-the-beaten-track stuff. Government of India tourist office (%2225632; TSS Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Free basic maps and brochures. Meghalaya Tourism (%2226220; www .megtourism.gov.in; Jail Rd) Lots of useful information.

8 Getting There & Away

The MTC bus station (Jail Rd) also has a computerised railway-reservation counter (nearest train station is Guwahati). Private buses depart from Dhanketi Point; book tickets from counters around Police Bazaar, including Network Travels (Shop 44, MUDA Complex, Police Bazaar) and Deep (Ward’s Lake Rd). Frequent buses and sumos run to the following towns: Aizawl (₹550, 15 hours) Cherrapunjee (bus/sumo ₹250/220, three hours) Dawki (bus ₹110, three hours) Dimapur (₹340, 14 hours) Guwahati (government bus/private bus ₹90/110, 3½ hours) Silchar (₹190, 10 hours) Siliguri (₹430, 16 hours) Tura (bus/sumo ₹260/360, 12 hours via Guwahati)

MEGHALAST AYA TRIBAL E AT I N G STATES & DRINKS NORTHE EI NAT HGI LI N LO G N&G D R I N K I N G

ú Eating 5 Broadway .............................................A2 6 City Hut Dhaba ....................................B2 7 La Galerie .............................................A2

gnomes, City Hut serves a variety of Indian, Chinese, barbecue and ice creams in four diﬀerent eating rooms, including a familyonly room and an attractive, flower-decked straw pavilion.

582

From a Kacheri Rd parking area, taxis will take you direct to Guwahati airport (₹1600, 3½ hours). Khasi Hills Tourist Taxi Cooperative (Kacheri Rd) charges ₹1800 to ₹2000 for a day trip to Cherrapunjee, and for a ride to the Bangladesh border near Dawki it’s ₹1600.

Around Shillong SMIT

NORTHE AST TRIBAL STATES M EG H A L AYA

Framing itself as the Khasi cultural centre, Smit hosts the major five-day Nongkrem Festival (October). This features animal sacrifices and a curious slow-motion shuffling dance performed in full costume in front of the thatched bamboo ‘palace’ of the local syiem (traditional ruler). Smit is 11km from Shillong, 4km oﬀ the Jowai road. CHERRAPUNJEE (SOHRA) % 03637 / POP 11,000

Once you leave the outskirts of Shillong the road to Cherrapunjee passes through pretty scenery that becomes dramatic at Dympep viewpoint, where a photogenic V-shape valley slits deeply into the plateau. Although straggling for several kilometres, Cherrapunjee (known locally as Sohra) has a compact centre. Huddling beside the marketplace is the sumo stand.

1 Sights & Activities Root Bridges

LANDMARK

The most fascinating sight around Cherrapunjee are the incredible root bridges, living rubber fig-tree roots that ingenious

Khasi villagers have trained across streams to form natural pathways. Three of these root bridges (including an amazing ‘doubledecker’) are near Nongriat. Access involves a two-hour very steep trek down from Tyrna, a pretty, palm-clad village that’s 2km from Mawshamok. From Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort the entire roundtrip hike takes eight hours, is highly strenuous and involves descending and ascending some 2000-odd steps (this particular author couldn’t walk for two days afterwards!). The Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort provides maps. Moors & Waterfalls

VIEWPOINT

The surrounding grassy moors justify Meghalaya’s over-played ‘Scotland of the East’ tourist-oﬃce soubriquet, although they’re dotted with Khasi monoliths and scarred by quarrying. Much more impressive is the series of ‘grand canyon’ valleys that plunge into deep lush chasms of tropical forest sprayed by a succession of seasonally inspiring waterfalls. The Nohkalikai Falls, fourth highest in the world, are particularly dramatic, especially in the monsoon when their capacity increases 20-fold. You can see them easily enough without quite entering the oﬃcial viewpoint (admission/camera ₹10/200; h8am-5pm), 4.4km southwest of Sohra market. Mawsmai Cave CAVE (admission/camera/video ₹10/15/50; h9.30am5.30pm) Their popularity with domestic

tourists means that the incongruous sight of

GARO HILLS The lush, green Garo Hills in the far west of Meghalaya are well off the beaten path. The towns are not visually distinctive, but most houses in small hamlets remain traditionally fashioned from bamboo-weave matting and neatly cropped palm thatch. The Garo Hills are easier to visit from Guwahati than from Shillong. Sprawling Tura is the western Garo Hills’ regional centre and an unhurried transport hub. The tourist office (%03651-242394; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) is 4km away towards Nazing Bazaar. Friendly staff offer brochures and sketchy maps, and arrange guides for anywhere in the Garo Hills, including a three-day hike to Nokrek Biosphere Reserve where it’s possible to watch for Hoolock Gibbons from a traditional-style borang (Garo tree house). There are some cheap and not very cheerful places to stay near the market in Tura or, for something a little more comfortable, try the Rikman Continental (%03651-220744; Circular Rd; s/d from ₹900/1080; ai). Almost on the Bangladesh border, Baghmara is the southern Garo Hills’ district centre. From Baghmara you can visit the Balpakhram National Park, 45km away, but jeep and guide hire will have to be organised in Tura.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

CROSSING INTO BANGLADESH FROM DAWKI

583

Border Hours The border is open from 6am to 5pm.

Foreign Exchange There’s no oﬃcial exchange booth but ask at the Bangladesh customs oﬃce.

Onward Transport

sari-clad women stooping through the low passages of the 150m-long Mawsmai Cave is common. Mawsmai’s tall row of roadside monoliths is as impressive as the cave but don’t receive the same attention.

4 Sleeping & Eating

oCherrapunjee Holiday

HOTEL $$ Resort (%09436115925; www.cherrapunjee.com; Laitkynsew village; d ₹1480-1800; iW) With seven

eminently comfortable rooms, this resort is run by truly delightful hosts. They oﬀer a selection of hikes, either self-orientated (using their hand-drawn maps) or with a local guide. Built on a ridge, rooms either look down to Bangladesh or up to the escarpment. During peak times tent accommodation (₹600) is available with shared bath-

rooms but no hot water. More rooms were under construction at the time of research. A daily bus leaves nearby Laitkynsew village for Shillong (₹40, 6am). Going the other way it leaves Shillong at 1pm. Otherwise a taxi from Cherrapunjee costs ₹250 to ₹300. Rest House Nongriat GUESTHOUSE $ (%9856891520; Nongriat; per person ₹100) This

highly basic four-room guesthouse is just one minute from the double-decker bridge and so is ideal if you want to explore the escarpment floor in greater depth. If you stay, take the absolute minimum with you because carrying a backpack back up all those steps would be a real bitch! Meals cost ₹100. Sohra Plaza Hotel HOTEL $ (%235762; r ₹550) This mucky but friendly

two-room hotel is by the market.

MEGHALAST AYA TRIBAL 8 NORTHE STATES A 8 R O U N D S H I L LO N G

The border post is at Tamabil, 1.7km from Dawki market (taxis are ₹40-50). Coming from Bangladesh, beware that Tamabil has no Sonali bank, so prepay your Tk300 Bangladeshi departure tax in Sylhet or in Jaintiapura. There are frequent Tamabil–Sylhet minibuses.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Odisha Bhubaneswar . . . . . . .587 Puri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 594 Konark . . . . . . . . . . . . 599 Chilika Lake . . . . . . . .601 Gopalpur-On-Sea . . . 602 Rayagada. . . . . . . . . . 604 Jeypore . . . . . . . . . . . 604 Koraput . . . . . . . . . . . 604 Onkadelli . . . . . . . . . . 605 Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . 606 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . 608

Best Places to Stay » Nature Camp (Satkosia; p594) » Chandori Sai (p606)

» Nature Camp (Bhitarkanika; p609)

» Lotus Eco Village (p600) » Hotel Gandhara (p596)

Best Temples » Sun Temple (p600)

» Mukteswar Mandir (p589) » Lingaraj Mandir (p588)

» Jagannath Mandir (p595) » Yogini Temple (p594)

Why Go? Long ignored by all but the most intrepid, Odisha (Orissa) is a backseat destination with unfamiliar flair. Travellers are waking up to its intricate patchwork of culture, tradition, sun and sand, but it continues to feel relatively undiscovered. Odisha aﬀords an escape from the frenzy of other Indian traveller epicentres and boasts the World Heritage–listed Sun Temple in Konark, bursting with brilliantly worked scenes of Odisha life. Medieval temples pepper the streets of the capital, Bhubaneswar. Wonderful national parks and wildlife sanctuaries are crammed with tigers, elephants, Irrawaddy dolphins, monster crocodiles and millions of migratory birds. Chilika Lake, Asia’s largest brackish lagoon, is flanked by inexpensive seaside retreats along one of India’s prettiest coasts. Inland, the Adivasis (tribal people) live precariously on the edge of mainstream society, yet retain their colourful, fascinating traditions – a metaphor for Odisha itself.

When to Go Bhubaneswar °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

16/400 0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Nov–Mar Warm and dry, just like a fresh load of laundry.

Nov Join the beach bash at Puri’s Beach Festival.

Dec The Unescobetrothed Sun Temple is the backdrop for the seductive Konark Festival.

Dishes of Odisha If there is a staple in Odishan kitchens, it’s mustard, used ubiquitously in seed, paste and oil forms, giving many Odisha dishes a distinct pungent flavour. A typical meal consists of bhata (rice) served alongside a variety of tasty side dishes like kaharu phula bhaja (fried pumpkin flower); dalma (dahl cooked with pumpkin, potato, plantains and eggplant, then fried in a five-spice oil of fenugreek, cumin, black cumin, anise and mustard, topped with grated coconut); and besara (vegetables or river fish with mustard-paste gravy). Saga bhaja, leafy greens lightly fried with garlic paste and a five-seed mixture called pancha phutan (cumin, mustard, anis, black cumin and chilli) is also a treat here. On the coast, fish and prawns are omnipresent: sarison macha is a superb favourite fish dish cooked in a mustard-based curry.

DON’T MISS Odisha’s masterstroke is undeniably its 13th-century Sun Temple at Konark; one of the state’s most unforgettable journeys is a tour through the Western tribal regions, where colour and culture collide in the fascinating villages and markets of some 62 tribal (Adivasi) societies.

Top State Festivals » Adivasi Mela (Jan, Bhubaneswar, p591) Features art, dance and handicrafts of Odisha’s tribal groups.

» Rath Yatra (Jun/Jul, Puri, p594) Immense chariots containing Lord Jagannath, brother Balbhadra and sister Subhadra are hauled from Jagannath Temple to Gundicha Mandir. » Puri Beach Festival (Nov, Puri, p596) Song, dance, food and cultural activities on the beach.

» Konark Festival (Dec, Konark, p600) Features traditional music and dance and a seductive temple ritual.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Most travellers usually arrive at Bhubaneswar’s Biju Patnaik Airport or by the rails into Bhubaneswar (BBS) or Puri (PURI) junctions.

Fast Facts » Population: 41.9 million » Area: 155,707 sq km

» Capital: Bhubaneswar » Main language: Odia

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹900, $$ ₹900 to ₹3000, $$$ above ₹3000

Top Tip Puri is Odisha’s travellers’ hub. If you want to hit the ground running on a tribal tour, it’s most pleasantly organised from there.

Resources » Visit Odisha (www .visitorissaa.org) – official Department of Tourism site.

JHARKHAND

586 CHHATTISGARH

Rourkela

Badrama Wildlife Sanctuary

Hirakud Reservoir

Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary Hirakud

Similipal National Park

Balasore Chandipur

Bhadrak

Daitari

ODISHA

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Sonapur

Bolangir

Ratnagiri

Riv

Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary

Udayagiri

Lalitgiri

Nandankanan Zoo Chandaka Wildlife Sanctuary

Cuttack

Hirapur Kendrapara

Bhubaneswar Paradip Dhauli Pipli Gop Sakhigopal Konark Mangalajodi

Baliguda

Bhanjanagar Bhawanipatna

Hot Springs Taptapani

Tribal Kashipur Areas Nabarangpur

Khiching

Huma

Baripalli

Titlagarh

Baripada

Lulung

Sambalpur

Dam 6

r i Rive man Brah

Jharsugada

Bangriposhi Jashipur

Chilika Lake Puri Barkul Satapada Rajhansa Rambha

Chatikona

Raghurajpur

Rushikulya Berhampur

Rayagada

Gopalpur-on-Sea

Jeypore Koraput

Goudaguda

BAY OF

To Onkadelli (80km)

BENGAL Srikakulam 5

Vizianagram

ANDHRA PRADESH

Bheemunipatnam Visakhapatnam

0 0

To Chennai (600km)

100 km 60 miles

Odisha Highlights 1 Catch the sun at dawn’s light on the stunning Sun Temple (p600) in Konark

but don’t shy away from its holy quarter on the ‘Indian’ side

the gorgeous Mahanadi River cutting through breathtaking Satkosia Gorge Sanctuary (p594)

tribal marketplaces of Onkadelli (p605) and Chatikona (p604)

2 Sleep on the sands of

3 Bliss-out beachside in

traveller favourite Puri (p594),

4 Barter in the colourful

5 Ply wildlife-rich mangroves on the prowl for 8m-long saltwater crocodiles

in Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary (p608)

6 Enjoy the silence between

the sea and Asia’s largest brackish lagoon on an overnight camping trip to Chilika Lake (p601)

7 Explore the ancient Hindu shrines around India’s Temple City, Bhubaneswar (p587)

History

Climate

Monsoonal rains and cyclones in July to October can seriously aﬀect transport. A particularly devastating cyclone struck Odisha

in 1999, causing significant damage and the loss of thousands of lives, and in 2008 serious flooding destroyed crops and villages and led to mass evacuations.

587

National Parks

The admission fee for foreigners to visit most of Odisha’s national parks and wildlife sanctuaries is ₹1000 per day – including the day you depart– a hefty fee that Odisha’s private tour operators have continued to protest against. Dangers & Annoyances

Mosquitoes here have a record of being dengue and malaria carriers. See p1190 for advice, and consider bringing a mosquito net.

8 Information

Odisha Tourism (www.Odishatourism.gov. in) has a presence in most towns, with oﬃces for information and tour/hotel booking. It also maintains a list of approved guides for tribalarea visits. Odisha Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC; www.panthanivas.com), the commercial arm of Odisha Tourism, runs tours and hotels throughout the state.

8 Getting There & Away

Air routes connect Bhubaneswar with Bengaluru, Delhi, Hyderabad, Mumbai (Bombay), Kolkata (Calcutta) and Chennai. Major road and rail routes between Kolkata and Chennai pass through coastal Odisha and Bhubaneswar with spur connections to Puri. Road and rail connect Sambalpur with Kolkata, Chhattisgarh and Madhya Pradesh.

8 Getting Around

Public transport in the coastal region is good with ample long-distance buses and trains. For touring around the interior hiring a car is the best option, although buses and trains are available if you’re not in a hurry.

Bhubaneswar % 0674 / POP 647,310

At first glance, Bhubaneswar’s wide avenues, green belts and public highway murals that reflect its temple-town heritage – all on the outskirts – seem quite pleasant. Its inner sanctum, whose many gorgeous and wellpreserved Hindu temples inspired the nickname of India’s Temple City, is also a serene spiritual epicentre and a living museum of Odishan medieval temple architecture. The problem is the rest of it – typically noisy, polluted and congested. But a day or two to take in the old city’s holy centre around Bindu Sagar where, from the thousands that once

ODISHA B H U B A N E S WA R

Formerly known as Kalinga, then Orissa, Odisha (per a longstanding name-change campaign that finally received Lok Sabha approval in 2010) was once a formidable maritime empire that had trading routes leading down into Indonesia, but its history is somewhat hazy until the demise of the Kalinga dynasty in 260 BC at the hands of the great emperor Ashoka. Appalled at the carnage he had caused, Ashoka forswore violence and converted to Buddhism. Around the 1st century BC Buddhism declined and Jainism was restored as the faith of the people. During this period the monastery caves of Udayagiri and Khandagiri (in Bhubaneswar) were excavated as important Jain centres. By the 7th century AD Hinduism had supplanted Jainism. Under the Kesari and Ganga kings, trade and commerce increased and Odishan culture flourished – countless temples from that classical period still stand. The Odishans defied the Muslim rulers in Delhi until finally falling to the Mughals during the 16th century, when many of Bhubaneswar’s temples were destroyed. Until Independence, Odisha was ruled by Afghans, Marathas and the British. Since the 1990s a Hindu fundamentalist group, Bajrang Dal, has undertaken a violent campaign against Christians in Odisha in response to missionary activity. The often illiterate and dispossessed tribal people have suﬀered the most from the resulting communal violence, which has been as much about power, politics and land as religious belief. Violence flared up again in 2008 after the killing of a Hindu leader in Kandhamal district, and thousands of Christians were moved to government relief camps outside the district after their homes were torched. The creation of the neighbouring states of Jharkhand and Chhattisgarh has prompted calls for the formation of a separate, tribaloriented state, Koshal, in the northwest of Odisha, with Sambalpur as the capital. A separatist political party, the Kosal Kranti Dal (KKD), fielded candidates in the 2009 state election. The last few years have seen something of an industrial boom in Odisha, with an influx of big steel plants and controversial mining.

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stood here, 50-odd stone temples remain, is an enthralling pit stop.

₹300). A live temple will always have a red flag fluttering above it.

1 Sights

oLingaraj Mandir

According to legend, Bhubaneswar once boasted over 7000 temples and is a longharnessed religious centre dating back 2000 years. Today, it’s most famous for its surviving medieval temples, a mix of ‘live’ (still in use as places of worship) and ‘dead’ (archaeological sites). Bhubaneswar still lays claim to around 500 or so Hindu temples. Along with Puri and Konark, the city forms one side of East India’s hallowed ‘Swarna Tribhuja’ (the ‘Golden Triangle’), a heavy-visited domestic tourist route. Unless you’re on an organised tour, a priest might approach you and expect a donation; ₹20 is reasonable. Consider it a guiding fee as undoubtedly the priest will reveal something about his temple. To see all the major temples, charter an autorickshaw for two to three hours (about

HINDU TEMPLE

The 54m-high Lingaraj Mandir, dedicated to Tribhuvaneswar (Lord of Three Worlds), dates from 1090 to 1104 (although parts are over 1400 years old) and is surrounded by more than 50 smaller temples and shrines. The granite block, representing Tribhuvaneswar, is bathed daily with water, milk and bhang (marijuana). The main gate, guarded by two moustachioed yellow lions, is a spectacle in itself as lines of pilgrims approach, prasad (temple-blessed food oﬀering) in hand. Because the temple is surrounded by a wall, and closed to non-Hindus, foreigners can see it only from a viewing platform (this can also include foreign Hindus, as some Indian Hindus do not believe in conversion). Face the main entrance, walk around to the

589

Bhubaneswar æ Top Sights Lingaraj Mandir...................................... C4 State Museum ....................................... D3

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 8 Alternative Tours................................... C4 9 Discover Tours....................................... D4 Odisha Tourism ............................(see 20) ÿ Sleeping Hotel Pushpak............................... (see 15) 10 Hotel Richi .............................................. D2 11 Hotel Upasana ....................................... D2 12 Kasturi Guest House ............................. D2 13 New Marrion ...........................................D1

right and find the viewing platform down a short laneway to the left. There have been reports of aggressive hassling for ‘donations’ (according to our guide) at the viewing platform. The money will not go to the temple; stand your ground and do not pay. Mukteswar, Siddheswar & Kedargauri Mandirs

HINDU TEMPLES

Not far from Parsurameswar is the small but beautiful 10th-century Mukteswar Mandir, one of the most ornate temples in Bhubaneswar; you’ll see representations of it on posters and brochures across Odisha. Intricate carvings show a mixture of Buddhist, Jain and Hindu styles – look for the Nagarani (Snake Queen), easily mistaken by Westerners for a mermaid, who you’ll also see at the Raja Rani Mandir. The ceiling carvings and stone arch are particularly striking as is the arched torana (architrave) at the front, clearly showing Buddhist influence. Siddheswar Mandir, in the same compound, is a later but plainer temple with a fine red-painted Ganesh. Over the road is Kedargauri Mandir, one of the oldest tem-

þ Shopping 16 Ekamra Haat........................................... D1 17 Modern Book Depot...............................D2 18 Odisha State Handloom Cooperative (Utkalika) .............................................C2 Information 19 Capital Hospital......................................B3 Odisha Tourism............................ (see 20) 20 Odisha Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC) ...........................D3 Transport 21 Air India ...................................................C2 22 Bus Stop for Cuttack .............................D3 23 Bus Stop for Puri....................................D3 24 City Bus Stand........................................D2 25 Former Capital Bus Stand.....................C2 26 Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus Stop....................D2 27 Rajmahal Taxi Stand..............................C2

ples in Bhubaneswar, although it has been substantially rebuilt. Vaital Mandir

HINDU TEMPLE

This 8th-century temple, with a double-storey ‘wagon roof’ influenced by Buddhist cave architecture, was a centre of Tantric worship, eroticism and bloody sacrifice. Look closely and you’ll see some very early erotic carvings on the walls. Chamunda (a fearsome incarnation of Devi), representing old age and death, can be seen in the dingy interior, although her necklace of skulls and her bed of corpses are usually hidden beneath her temple robes. Parsurameswar Mandir

HINDU TEMPLES

Just west of Lewis Rd lies a cluster of about 20 smaller but important temples. Best preserved is Parsurameswar Mandir, an ornate Shiva temple built around AD 650. It has lively bas-reliefs of elephant and horse processions, and Shiva images. Raja Rani Mandir HINDU TEMPLE (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawndusk) This temple, built around 1100 and

SIGHTS B ODISHA S IHGUHBTASN E S WA R

æ Sights 1 Bindu Sagar ........................................... C4 Kedargauri Mandir.......................... (see 2) 2 Mukteswar Mandir................................. D4 3 Museum of Tribal Arts & Artefacts...............................................A1 4 Odisha Modern Art Gallery ................................................. B3 5 Parsurameswar Mandir ........................ C4 6 Raja Rani Mandir.................................... D4 Siddheswar Mandir ........................ (see 2) 7 Vaital Mandir.......................................... C4

ú Eating 14 Hare Krishna Restaurant.......................D2 15 Khana Khazana ......................................D3 Maurya Gardens............................(see 10) Tangerine 9....................................(see 14)

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surrounded by manicured gardens, is famous for its ornate deul (temple sanctuary) and tower. Around the compass points are pairs of statues representing eight dikpalas (guardians) who protect the temple. Between them, nymphs, embracing couples, elephants and lions peer from niches and decorate the pillars. The name of the temple isn’t for a particular king and queen, but is the name of the stone used in the temple’s construction. Brahmeswar Mandir

HINDU TEMPLE

ODISHA

Standing in well-kept gardens, flanked on its plinth by four smaller structures, this 9thcentury temple is a smaller version of Lingaraj Mandir. It’s notable for its finely detailed sculptures with erotic elements.

oUdayagiri & Khandagiri

HISTORICAL SITE Caves (admission both sites Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk) Six kilometres west

of the city centre are two hills riddled with rock-cut shelters. Many are ornately carved and thought to have been chiselled out for Jain ascetics in the 1st century BC. Ascending the ramp at Udayagiri (Sunrise Hill), note Swargapuri (Cave 9) to the right with its devotional figures. Hathi Gumpha (Cave 14) at the top has a 117-line inscription relating the exploits of its builder, King Kharavela of Kalinga, who ruled from 168 to 153 BC. Around to the left you’ll see Bagh Gumpha (Tiger Cave; Cave 12), with its entrance carved as a tiger mouth. Nearby are Pavana Gumpha (Cave of Purification) and small Sarpa Gumpha (Serpent Cave), where the tiny door is surmounted by a three-headed cobra. On the summit are the remains of a defensive position. Around to the southeast is the single-storey elephant-guarded Ganesh Gumpha (Cave 10), almost directly above the two-storey Rani ka Naur (Queen’s Palace Cave; Cave 1), carved with Jain symbols and battle scenes. Continue back to the entrance via Chota Hathi Gumpha (Cave 3), with its carvings of elephants, and the double-storey Jaya Vijaya Cave (Cave 5), with a bodhi tree carved in the central area. Across the road, Khandagiri oﬀers fine views over Bhubaneswar from its summit. The steep path splits about one-third of the way up the hill. The right path goes to Ananta Cave (Cave 3), with its carved figures of athletes, women, elephants and geese

carrying flowers. Further along is a series of Jain temples; at the top is another (18thcentury) Jain temple. Buses don’t go to the caves, but plenty pass nearby on NH5, or take an autorickshaw (about ₹200 return). State Museum MUSEUM (www.Odishamuseum.nic.in; Lewis Rd; Indian/ foreigner ₹5/50, camera ₹10/100; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) This museum boasts Odisha’s best

collection of rare palm-leaf manuscripts, traditional and folk musical instruments, Bronze Age tools, an armoury, and an impressive collection of Buddhist, Jaina and Brahmanical sculptures.

Bindu Sagar

LANDMARK

Bindu Sagar (Ocean Drop Tank) reputedly contains water from every holy stream, pool and tank in India.

FMuseum of Tribal Arts &

MUSEUM Artefacts (h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) For anyone consider-

ing a visit to the tribal areas, this museum, oﬀ National Hwy 5 (NH5), is recommended. Dress, ornaments, weapons, household implements and musical instruments are displayed.

FOdisha Modern Art Gallery

ART GALLERY

(132 Forest Park; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun) Housing a

surprisingly high standard of contemporary art by local artists, this small gallery also has prints and originals for sale.

T Tours

Odisha Tourism runs a hop-on, hop-oﬀ bus service (per day ₹250) starting at the OTDC

(p593). The AC buses do a loop of the city’s temples every hour. The OTDC runs a city tour (AC ₹250) every day except Monday, covering the Nandankanan Zoo, Dhauli, the Lingaraj and Mukteswar temples, the State Museum, and Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves. Another tour goes to Pipli, Konark and Puri (AC ₹300, daily except Monday). Both tours leave from the Panthanivas Bhubaneswar hotel. These prices do not include entry fees. Private tour operators organise customised tours into Odisha’s tribal areas; these can also include visits to handicraft villages, and Similipal National Park and Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary. Prices will depend on number of people, transport and hotel standards, but expect to pay around US$50 to

US$100 per person per day for tours that include transport, accommodation and a professional guide, varying from budget to top end. Tribal tours usually start on a Sunday or Monday to synchronise with village markets. Alternative Tours TRIBAL/CULTURAL (%2590830; www.travelclubindia.com; Room 5, BDA Market Complex, Palaspalli) A veteran

for tribal tours in Odisha, Nagaland and Arunchal Pradesh.

Discover Tours TRIBAL/WILDLIFE (%2430477; www.Odishadiscover.com; 463 Lewis Rd;hclosed Sun) Specialises in tribal and

textile village tours as well as Bhitarkanika and Similipal.

4 Sleeping Bhubaneswar has plenty of accommodation, but a real dearth of anything in the way of clean or appealing family-run places or traveller dens in the budget and lower midranges. Conversely, it has a great selection of top-end hotels.

Ginger BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (%2303933; www.gingerhotels.com; Jayadev Vihar, Nayapalli; s/d ₹2999/3499; aiW) Ginger is

paint-by-numbers boutique business hotel chain (owned by Tata) with an IKEA-like self-service philosophy that means you’re not constantly surrounded by tip-demanding bag-carriers, laundry peons etc. With young friendly staff, clean modern lines, and fresh, spotless rooms with LCD TVs, tea and coffee, minifridge and silent AC, it’s Bhubaneswar’s best bang for the buck. Meals are served buffet style in the restaurant and there’s a 24-hour branch of Café Coffee Day that will deliver to your room. Advanced internet booking can cut rates by 50%.

Mayfair Lagoon HOTEL $$$ (%2360101; www.mayfairhotels.com; Jaydev Vihar; d cottages from ₹9000, d villas ₹30,000; aiWs) Quirky, colourful, even kitschy,

but luxuriously Indian at the same time. In the jungle-like grounds you’ll find static tigers, an elephant, even a twin-prop 1942 aircraft. The cottages are scattered around a serene lagoon and facilities run to a complimentary breakfast, six excellent restaurants,

591

New Marrion BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (%2380850; www.hotelnewmarrion.com; 6 Janpath; s/d from ₹6100/6500; aiWs) A centrally

located hotel where rooms have contemporary, classy design – LCD TVs, dark-wood panelling and extraordinarily stylish shower curtains. Restaurants here includes South Indian, Italian-Mexican combo and Chinese, a great kebab house, a Café Coﬀee Day and a contemporary Scottish bar. Avoid executive rooms on the 2nd floor unless you like a rooftop as a patio. Kasturi Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (%2537050; Ashok Nagar, Janpath; r from ₹750, with AC from ₹1000; a) Located in the heart

of Bhubaneswar’s commercial district (read: noisy), this intimate guesthouse oﬀers numerous categories for all budgets and is a little more welcoming than others in its price range. Rooms vary in size so there’s something for everyone.

Hotel Pushpak HOTEL $$ (%2310185; Kalpana Sq; s/d incl breakfast ₹900/1000, with AC ₹1600/1800; aW) Fresh

coats of lavender paint that evoke the stylish Bhubaneswar traﬃc police uniforms in the AC rooms can’t save them from seeming overpriced at this vaguely institutional, halfhearted choice, but the non-AC rooms are a diﬀerent story. They haven’t been renovated, but you’d be hard-pressed to find a better deal for the price.

Trident Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%2301010; www.tridenthotels.com; CB-1, Nayapalli; s/d/ste from ₹10,000/11,000/13,000; aiWs) The high-ceilinged lobby, in-

spired by Konark’s temple architecture, is a beauty and the Trident is more refined, but the Mayfair is more fun, with loads more dining choices.

Hotel Richi HOTEL (%2534619; 122A Station Sq; s/d incl breakfast from ₹400/600, d with AC from ₹1150; a)

Hotel Bhagwat Niwas HOTEL (%2313708; Kalpana Sq; s ₹200-250, d ₹350450, d with AC ₹1100-1200; a) Behind Hotel

The stone facade of this dim hotel is Iron Curtain depressing; the rooms only marginally improve on that condition, but proximity to the train station make it (very) popular.

Padma, the Bhagwat is what it is: a nearly

F E S T I VAB SSU&TBIEA VNELEN ODISHA FLEH VA SSTWA &S ERV E N T S

z Festivals & Events Every January, Bhubaneswar goes tribal for the annual Adivasi Mela festival, celebrating the art, dance and handicrafts of Odisha’s tribal groups.

a British-style pub and Bhubaneswar’s pub, nightclub and mini-bowling alley, 10 Downing Street.

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clean choice for rupee pinchers. Checkout is 24 hours. Hotel Upasana HOTEL $ (%2310044; upasana_bbsr@rediffmail.com; off Cuttack Rd; d from ₹900, with AC from ₹1100; a)

Behind the rancid Bhubaneswar Hotel, the Upasana is one of the friendlier and more welcoming budgets in town.

3 Entertainment o10 Downing Street

BAR, NIGHTCLUB

(Mayfair Lagoon, Jayadev Vihar; h7-11.30pm) So

5 Eating & Drinking oTangerine 9

your first meal in India, but this fast-food street stall with a few chairs and tables scattered outside does tandoori chicken, chicken biryani or large portions of delicious chow mein.

INDIAN/FUSION $$

ODISHA

(Station Sq; mains ₹60-250) The soothing namesake tones of this excellent restaurant won’t relieve the burn of the fiery chicken Dum Puk, the first curry in a month to make our head tingle. All the dishes – North Indian (especially tandoori), Chinese and a few Thai thrown in – burst with the flavour of fresh herbs and spices. If you can’t aﬀord five-star-hotel dining but want the same quality for half the price, Tangerine 9 won’t disappoint. Maurya Gardens INDIAN, CHINESE $$ (Hotel Richi, Station Sq; mains ₹50-160) This

darkened restaurant is a welcome respite from the train-station chaos outside, as well as a dramatic contrast from the hotel in which it’s located. The menu is loaded down with Chinese, Indian and Continental dishes and the curries are nice and hot, but if you want a beer to cool it down you’ll have to eat (same menu) in the bar next door.

Hare Krishna Restaurant INDIAN $$ (Station Sq, Lalchand Market Complex; mains ₹45140; hlunch & dinner) The menu says ‘Surren-

der to the pleasure of being vegetarian’, and it’s not diﬃcult at this excellent veg restaurant. In dimly lit, upmarket surrounds you can enjoy mainly Indian dishes, including a wide range of tasty biryanis and pilaus.

Khana Khazana INDIAN $$ (outside Hotel Padma, Kalpana Sq; snacks & mains ₹18-160; hdinner) It probably shouldn’t be

ridiculous it’s awesome, 10 Downing Street is what happens when you build something from nothing. Bhubaneswar was hurting for nocturnal diversions, so it’s all here: a colonial British-style megapub with pool, cricket on the TV and a small dance floor, too, with DJ’s spinning house, R&B and Bollywood from 7pm. Oh. Wait. There’s also a minibowling alley!

Shopping

Ekamra Haat MARKET (www.ekamrahaat.in; Madhusudan Marg; h10am10pm) A wide-ranging exposition of Odishan

handicrafts (and snack stalls) can be found at this permanent market in a large garden space. While the gates open at 10am, many stalls don’t get going until later. Odisha State Handloom HANDICRAFTS Cooperative (Utkalika; Eastern Tower, Market Bldg) Odishan

textiles, including appliqué and ikat (a technique involving tie-dyeing the thread before it’s woven) works, can be bought here.

8 Information

Modern Book Depot (Station Sq; h9.30am2pm & 4.30-9pm) Maps, English-language novels, coffee-table books, postcards and books on Odisha. If you’re interested in learning some Odia, ask the owner about the well-regarded Oriya in Small Bites. Oxford Bookstore (2nd fl, PAL Heights, Jaydev Vihar) Modern megachain bookstore and signature tea bar Cha Bar.

SIMPLY SUMPTUOUS This dead simple restaurant (Market Bldg, Sahid Nagar; thalis ₹100-250; hlunch & dinner) is the place to try authentic Odishan cuisine, served in huge proportions thali-style on plantain leaves resting in traditional Bell Metal dishware. The restaurant observes Hindu dining restrictions (so no garlic or onions on Monday or Thursday) and the menu board is entirely in Odia, so just order veg or non-veg (not always available, depending on the religious calendar) and sit back and await your feast. It’s like a Hindu Last Supper!

8 Getting There & Away

Air Bhubaneswar’s Biju Patnaik Airport is a 7km drive from town. Air India (%2530533; www. airindia.com; Rajpath; h10am-4.45pm MonSat) flies daily to Delhi, Chennai and Mumbai. Jet Lite (%2596176; www.jetlite.com; airport) flies direct to Kolkata daily. IndiGo (% 6543547; www.goindigo.in; airport) flies to Delhi, Bengaluru, Mumbai and Hyderabad daily. Kingfisher (%2596046; www.flykingfisher.com; airport) flies to Mumbai, Bengaluru and Kolkata daily. Bus Baramunda bus station (%Advance Ticket Booking Center 2354769; NH5) has frequent buses to Cuttack (₹14 to ₹15, one hour), Puri (₹35, 1¼ hours) and Konark (₹40, two hours). Less frequent services go to Berhampur (₹120, five hours), Sambalpur (non-AC/AC ₹220/270, nine hours) and Baripada (non-AC/AC ₹170/200, seven hours). There are several daily services to Kolkata (nonAC/AC/sleeper₹270/350/400, 12 hours). Train Foreigner’s queue up at window 2 at the Computerised Reservation Oﬃce. The 12841 Coromandal Express travels daily to Chennai

(sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹391/1043/1424, 20 hours, 9.35pm). The 12801 Purushotlam Express goes to Delhi (₹481/1296/1777, 31 hours, 11.30pm) and the 11020 Konark Express to Mumbai (₹484/1333/1838, 37 hours, 3.20pm). Howrah is connected to Bhubaneswar by the 12074 Jan Shatabdi (2nd class/AC chair ₹142/460, seven hours, 6.20am daily except Sunday) and the daily 12822 Howrah Dhauli Express (₹122/432, seven hours, 1.20pm). To Sambalpur, the 12893 Bhubaneswar-Sambalpur Express (2nd class/AC chair ₹93/339, five hours, 6.45am) is quick, comfortable and convenient.

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8 Getting Around

No buses go to the airport; a taxi costs about ₹150 from the centre, though they are hard to come by. Try the Rajmahal taxi stand. An autorickshaw to the airport costs about ₹80 to ₹100. Prepaid taxis from the airport to central Bhubaneswar cost (non-AC/AC) ₹130/290, and to Puri or Konark ₹740/940. Another way to get to Puri or Konark in relative comfort is to go one way on an OTDC tour; let the guide know you won’t be returning.

Around Bhubaneswar NANDANKANAN ZOOLOGICAL PARK

Famous for its 11 blue-eyed white tigers, the zoo (www.nandankanan.org; Indian/foreigner ₹20/100, digital camera/video ₹10/100; h7.30am5.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 8am-5pm Oct-Mar), one

of India’s best, also boasts rare Asiatic lions, rhinoceroses, copious reptiles and longsnouted crocodiles, monkeys, deer, a vulture that is believed to have worked for the Pakistan Inter-Services Intelligence agency and India’s only orang-utan. The highlight is the hour-long lion and tiger safari (₹30), which leaves every 30 minutes from 9am 5pm. Other attractions include a toy train and boat rides. A cable car (₹30; hzoo hr) crosses a lake, allowing passengers to get oﬀ halfway and walk down (300m) to the State Botanical Garden. Early or late in the day you might catch the elephants having a bath in the lake. OTDC tours stop here for an (insuﬃcient) hour or so. From Bhubaneswar, frequent public buses (₹15, one hour) leave from Kalpana Sq (near Hotel Padma) and outside the former Capital bus stand for Nandankanan village, about 400m from the entrance to the zoo. By taxi, a return trip (including waiting) costs about ₹350.

8 ODISHA 8 R O U N D B H U B A N E S WA R A

Capital Hospital (%2401983; Sachivajaya Marg) Has a 24-hour pharmacy on-site. CBG’s (14 Kharvel Nagar; internet per hr ₹20; h8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat) Internet access. Ganpati Travel & Communication (Kalpana Sq; internet per hr ₹30; h9am-9pm) Internet access. Odisha Tourism (www.Odishatourism.gov. in) airport (% 9238578358); main office (%2432177; Paryatan Bhavan, behind State Museum, Lewis Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat); train station (%2530715; h24hr) Tourist information, maps and lists of recommended guides. Odisha Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC; %2430764; behind Panthanivas Bhubaneswar, Lewis Rd; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Commercial arm of Odisha Tourism. Books sightseeing tours and hotels. Om Sai Communication (Ravi Talkies; internet per hr ₹12; h9am-11pm) Internet access conveniently located near temples. Police (%2533732; Capitol Police Station, Rajpath) Post office (cnr Mahatma Gandhi & Sachivajaya Margs; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 3-7pm Sun) State Bank of India (Rajpath; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Cashes travellers cheques and exchanges foreign currency. Thomas Cook (130 Ashok Nagar, Janpath) Cashes travellers cheques, including Amex, and exchanges foreign currency.

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DHAULI

ODISHA S O U T H E A S T E R N O D I S H A

In about 260 BC one of Ashoka’s famous edicts was carved onto a large rock at Dhauli, 8km south of Bhubaneswar. The rock is now protected by a grill-fronted building and above, on top of a hillock, is a carved elephant. On a nearby hill is the huge, white Shanti Stupa (Peace Pagoda), built by Japanese monks in 1972. Older Buddhist reliefs are set into the modern structure. You have to climb the stairs barefoot (hot! hot! hot!) but it’s worth it for the four lovely images of the Buddha and great views of the surrounding countryside. You’ll find the turn-oﬀ to Dhauli along the Bhubaneswar–Puri road, accessible by any Puri or Konark bus (₹8). From the turn-oﬀ, it’s a flat 3km walk to the rock, and then a short, steep walk to the stupa. By autorickshaw/taxi, a return trip costs about ₹150/250. HIRAPUR

Among iridescent-green paddies, 15km from Bhubaneswar, is a small village with an important Yogini Temple, one of only four in India. The low, circular structure, open to the sky, has 64 niches within, each with a black chlorite goddess. Getting here requires hired transport or coming on a customised tour from Bhubaneswar. PIPLI

This colourful town, 16km southeast of Bhubaneswar, is notable for its brilliant appliqué craft, which incorporates small mirrors and is used for door and wall hangings

and the more traditional canopies hung over Lord Jagannath and family during festival time. Lampshades and parasols hanging outside the shops turn the main road into an avenue of rainbow colours. The work is still done by local families in workshops behind the shops; you may be able to go back and have a look. During Diwali, it’s particularly vibrant. Pipli is easily accessible by any bus between Bhubaneswar and Puri or Konark.

SOUTHEASTERN ODISHA Puri % 06752 / POP 157,610

Hindu pilgrims, Indian holidaymakers and foreign travellers all make their way to Puri, setting up camp in diﬀerent parts of town. For Hindus, Puri is one of the holiest pilgrimage places in India, with religious life revolving around the great Jagannath Mandir and its famous Rath Yatra (Car Festival). Puri’s other attraction is its long, sandy beach and esplanade. Backing this, on New Marine Rd, is a long ribbon of hotels, resorts and company holiday homes that become instantly full when Kolkata rejoices in a holiday – great for an evening stroll. In the 1970s travellers on the hippie trail through Southeast Asia were attracted here by the sea and bhang, legal in Shiva’s Puri. There’s little trace of that scene today (though the bhang hasn’t departed); travellers come just to hang out and recharge their backpacking spirit.

SATKOSIA GORGE SANCTUARY This 795-sq-km Sanctuary (www.satkosia.org; per day Indian/foreigner ₹20/1000; h6am-7pm), 190km west of Bhubaneswar, is part of the larger Satkosia Tiger Reserve, inaugurated in 2007 by combining adjoining Satkosia Gorge and Baisipalli wildlife sanctuaries. The reserve is straddled by the breathtaking gorge, cut by the mighty Mahanadi River, one of the most beautiful natural spots in all of Odisha, if not India. Among its 38 recorded species of mammals, significant populations of Gharial crocodiles, leopards, elephants, sambar, wild dogs, jackals and giant squirrels call the reserve home – and at least 18 tigers. The main entry gate of the tiger reserve is at Pampasar, 30km southwest of Angul. There are three sets of excellent forest rest houses (d ₹550) in the park, but forget about those. Where you want to be is the Nature Camp (%0674-236218; dfosatkosiawl@ yahoo.co.in; tents incl meals ₹1500-2000; h1 Nov-31 Mar), perched right on the golden sand beaches of the Mahanadi River at Tikarpada with the gorge as the scenic backdrop. Here the double-bedded tents with toilets and water supply are Odisha’s most storybook setting.

The action is along a few kilometres of coast, with the backpacker village clustered around Chakra Tirtha (CT) Rd to the east, busy New Marine Rd to the west and resorts in the middle. A few blocks inland is the holy quarter’s chaotic but fascinating jumble of streets. Dangers & Annoyances

1 Sights oJagannath Mandir

HINDU TEMPLE

This mighty temple belongs to Jagannath, Lord of the Universe and incarnation of Vishnu. The jet-black deity with large, round, white eyes is hugely popular across Odisha; figures of Jagannath are tended and regularly dressed in new clothes at shrines across the state. Built in its present form in 1198, the temple (closed to non-Hindus) is surrounded by two walls; its 58m-high sikhara (spire) is topped by the flag and wheel of Vishnu. Guarded by two stone lions and a pillar crowned by the Garuda that once stood at the Sun Temple at Konark, the eastern entrance (Lion Gate) is the passageway for the chariot procession of Rath Yatra. Jagannath, brother Balbhadra and sister Subhadra reside supreme in the central jagamohan (assembly hall). Priests continually garland and dress the three throughout the day for diﬀerent ceremonies. Incredibly, the temple employs about 6000 men to perform the complicated rituals involved in caring for the gods. An estimated 20,000 people – divided into 36 orders and 97 classes – are dependent on Jagannath for their livelihood. Non-Hindus can spy from the roof of Raghunandan Library (cnr Temple Rd & Swargadwar Rd; h9am-2pm & 4-6pm Mon-Sat) opposite;

a ‘donation’, while not oﬃcially compulsory, is expected (₹10 is fine). The library is closed on Sunday, so touts who will help you to a nearby rooftop prey on tourists and demand ₹100 – easily negotiated down to ₹50.

BEACH

Puri is no palm-fringed paradise – the beach is wide, shelves quickly with a nasty shore break and is shadeless. It could also use a clean-up. But it is the seaside and oﬀers the best beach vibe in Odisha, with dramatic sunsets and a lingering hippie atmosphere. By New Marine Rd (the ‘Indian side’ or ‘Puri I’) the beach is healthier (although still not particularly pleasant for swimming) and often crowded with energetic holidaymakers, especially at night, where there is lots of hangout action on the long esplanade. Be on the look out for artists constructing sand sculptures, a local art form. To the east it’s a public toilet for the fishing village. Swargdwar LANDMARK (oﬀ New Marine Rd; h24hr) These hallowed cre-

mation grounds are the end stop of choice for Eastern India’s Hindu population and beyond – some 40 bodies are cremated here daily. Anyone can watch or walk among the open-air ceremonies providing you are behaving in a respectful manner and not taking photos. It’s an obviously solemn aﬀair, but a fascinating glimpse into Puri’s role as one of India’s holiest cities.

T Tours

OTDC (%223526; New Marine Rd; h6am-10pm)

runs a series of day trips. Tour 1 (AC/nonAC ₹350/250, departs 6.30am Tuesday to Sunday) skips through Konark, Dhauli, Bhubaneswar’s temples, Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves plus Nandankanan Zoo. Tour 2 (AC/non-AC ₹250/150, departs 7am daily) goes for a boat jaunt on Chilika Lake. Various admission fees are additional to the tour cost. Tours begin and end at various points including the Odisha Tourism oﬃce and the Chanakya BNR Hotel. Several tour operators organise tours into Odisha’s tribal areas that can include visits to handicraft villages plus Similipal National Park and Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary. Tribal tours have to be approached cautiously as not all agencies have the necessary local contacts to conduct a responsible tour. For recommended options in Bhubaneswar see p590 and for more details see p605.

SGrass Routes Journeys

TRIBAL/CULTURAL

(%226642, 9437029698; www.grassroutesjour neys.com; CT Rd; h8am-1pm & 4-9pm) This

Australian-Indian agency works from a sustainable philosophy and has its heart in the right place – contacts in the tribal com-

595

SOUTHE ASTERN ODISHA S IUGRHI T S ODISHA S I G H T S P

Ocean currents can become treacherous in Puri, and drownings are not uncommon, so don’t venture out beyond your depth. Ask one of the nolias (fishermen/lifeguards), with their white-painted, cone-shaped wicker hats, for the best spots. Muggings and attacks on women have been reported along isolated stretches of beach, even during the day, so take care. Young boys may approach foreign men on the beach; Puri has an ongoing problem with paedophiles abusing local youngsters.

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BAY OF BENGAL

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ODISHA S O U T H E A S T E R N O D I S H A

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munities, policies about appropriate ways to photograph people and contributions to the welfare of the community are pluses. It also does excellent trips to Chilika Lake and Satkosia Gorge.

(p585) and the Puri Beach Festival (23–27 November) featuring magnificent sand art, food stalls, traditional dance and other cultural programs.

SHeritage Tours

For Rath Yatra, Durga Puja (Dussehra), Diwali or the end of December and New Year, book well in advance. Prices given are for October to February. Significant discounts can be negotiated during the monsoon, while prices can triple during a festival. Many hotels have early checkout times – often 8am. A 10% service charge is frequently levied.

CULTURAL, WILDLIFE

(%223656; www.heritagetoursOdisha.com; Mayfair Beach Resort; h8am-8pm) A sustainable tribal

and cultural tourism veteran, but also interesting for its Green Riders program in which 75 cycle rickshaw drivers are trained weekly in fixed pricing, self-respect and why spiking prices for foreign tourists is uncool. In addition to transport, the program oﬀers a wealth of local cycle-rickshaw tours to fascinating parts of old Puri you would never otherwise see.

z Festivals Highlights of the festival-packed year include the celebrated festival of Rath Yatra

4 Sleeping

oHotel Gandhara

HOTEL $

(%224117; www.hotelgandhara.com; CT Rd; s/d ₹450/550, with AC & breakfast ₹1888/1999; aWi)

The Indian-Japanese-owned Gandhara blows away the competition for friendliness, services and value, remarkably outpunching its

Puri Activities, Courses & Tours Grass Routes Journeys.............. (see 11) Heritage Tours............................. (see 6) ÿ Sleeping 1 Baywatch Residency...........................D3 2 Chanakya BNR Hotel...........................B3 3 Hotel Ghandara....................................C3 4 Hotel Lee Garden.................................A4 5 Hotel Lotus...........................................D3 6 Mayfair Beach Resort..........................A4 7 Z Hotel ..................................................D3

Shopping Grocery Stores .............................(see 5) Information Ghandara International............... (see 3) 14 Headquarters Hospital........................ A1 15 Odisha Tourism ...................................A4 16 Swapu...................................................A4 Transport Bike & Motorcycle Rental ............(see 5)

weight class. There’s a wide range of bright rooms for diﬀerent budgets in the whitewashed, once-regal building. The rear fivestorey block has rooftop AC rooms catching breezes and views and free wi-fi; others are arrayed around a tree-shaded garden with balconies. There’s a friendly dog named after an Indian soda, international cable channels, full-on Western breakfast and self-service beer – rare as a porterhouse in Puri! Chanakya BNR Hotel HOTEL $$ (%223006; www.therailhotel.com.com; CT Rd; r incl breakfast ₹2500; ai) This sprawling historic

railway hotel has received a long overdue makeover, catapulting it to one of Puri’s most interesting lodging options. Looming archways and wide hallways lead to spacious, hardwood-floored rooms with 2.7m doors and modern furnishings. There are beautiful historic touches throughout, most notably the dark, 90-year-old Lac mural art in the lobby stairwell and restaurant.

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luxury features spacious units nestled in idyllic gardens dotted with carved statues. Its stretch of beach is cleaned and maintained by the resort and a good spot to kick away a day guest or not, and the white-wicker charm of the Verandah deck restaurant (excellent sarison macha) makes it a lovely refuelling setting. Z Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $ (%222554; www.zhotelindia.com; CT Rd; dm women only ₹100, s/d without bathroom ₹250/500, d ₹700, with AC ₹1500;a) This former mahara-

ja’s home has huge, clean, airy rooms, many of them facing the sea, and new ones with AC and excellent bathrooms. Great common areas include a TV room with movies screened nightly. The heritage vibe and traveller’s scene here – rare in Odisha – trumps the hospitality, which is nonexistent. Despite its flaws (no toilet paper, no internet, among others), it’s one of Puri’s most atmospheric choices.

Baywatch Residency HOTEL $ (%226133; www.baywatchculturalresidency.com; oﬀ CT Rd; s/d ₹600/750, with AC ₹1200/1350; a)

It’s pricier and there’s no beach creeping under the door, but rupee pinchers seeking sand adjacent will be far happier in this simple abode with huge, big-value rooms that are just clean enough. Non-AC 3rd-floor rooms 301, 302 and 304 are massive, with extra living rooms and small seaview balconies. There’s a small temple bellowing right outside most rooms and a 15% discount for anyone working in arts or culture.

Hotel Lee Garden HOTEL $ (%9040747616, lee_garden@rediﬀmail.com; VIP Rd; d from ₹650, with AC from ₹1100; ai) As was

clearly pointed out to us, 90% of the clientele here is West Bengali tourists (hence the 7.30am checkout time, due to train arrivals from there), so perhaps the harsh welcome is explained by a lack of concern for foreign tourism? It’s too bad, really. The rooms are spotless and good value, all dangerously too close to the excellent Chinese restaurant, Chung Wah, which tastes a lot better than the reception. Hotel Lotus HOTEL (%227033; CT Rd; d/q from ₹300/450, with AC ₹950; a) A range of inexpensive rooms

that are clean and comfortable. The nonAC rooms are some of the best value for

SOUTHE ASTERN ODISHA S L E E P I N G ODISHA S LUEREI P I N G P

ú Eating 8 Aero Dine..............................................A4 Chung Wah................................... (see 4) 9 Dakshin.................................................C3 10 Honey Bee Bakery & Pizzeria .............D3 11 Peace Restaurant ................................D3 12 Pink House Restaurant ......................D3 13 Wildgrass Restaurant..........................A4

Mayfair Beach Resort HOTEL $$$ (%227800; www.mayfairhotels.com; r incl breakfast from ₹7500; aWs) The benchmark for Puri

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money in Puri, though the front rooms may suffer a bit of street noise.

5 Eating There’s excellent fresh seafood to be enjoyed almost anywhere in Puri, and in CT Rd homesick travellers can find muesli and pancakes. Low-season opening times can be a bit random.

oChung Wah

INDO-CHINESE $$

(VIP Rd; mains ₹110-180; hlunch & dinner) The real

ODISHA S O U T H E A S T E R N O D I S H A

thing courtesy of a Chinese family transplanted from Kolkata 40 years ago. Chung Wah’s menu is loaded down with spicy Szechwan dishes that bite back. Try the excellent hot garlic chicken, Szechwan prawns or go fusion: Kung Pao paneer, which has a much catchier ring to it than Kung Pao Chicken. It’s great by any standard, but if you’ve been on the all-Indian diet for any length of time, it’s salvation.

Honey Bee Bakery & Pizzeria ITALIAN CAFE $$ (CT Rd; set breakfast ₹110-150, mains ₹60-270; h8.30am-2pm & 6-10pm) Decent pizzas and

pancakes, filtered coﬀee and espresso, toasted sandwiches and fry-up brekkies (including bacon!) – all the comforts of home are here. It’s Puri’s tried and true traveller hang-out. Aero Dine INDIAN/MULTICUISINE $$ (Hotel Shakti International, VIP Rd; mains ₹90-300)

Is this the mess hall on the Starship Enterprise? This very surprising place will throw your holidays for a loop with its white modular furniture, random flashing lights and monitors, and overall space-age decor. The menu brings you back down to earth a little with great Indian, Chinese and Continental standards, along with a few wildcards like Cajun chicken and crêpes Suzette.

Wildgrass Restaurant INDIAN $$ (VIP Rd; mains ₹60-150; hlunch & dinner) With

huts scattered through its grounds, Wildgrass is a secret garden gone wild. The Indian and Continental menu is enlivened with good-value seafood dishes and Odishan specialties. Grand INDIAN $$ (Grand Rd; mains ₹55-110) This pure veg mon-

strosity has good grub and snacks throughout the day – the bhindi chatpati (okra) and gobi Hyderabadi (cauliflower) are both commendable, but it’s more notable for its open-air terrace, from which there are striking views of Jagannath Mandir and the hubbub of Grand Rd below. From the temple, it’s 100m down Grand Rd.

Peace Restaurant INDIAN (CT Rd; mains ₹40-180) ‘World famous in

Puri but never heard of anywhere else.’ So reads the menu, which features curries, macaroni, the best muesli in town (₹70) and tasty fish dishes. Dakshin SOUTH INDIAN (CT Rd; dosas ₹25-35, thali ₹50) Standing out

in CT Rd’s string of ageing sand-floor banana-pancake joints, this clean place has a simple menu of well-prepared South Indian dishes. Thalis and masala dosas are outstanding. Pink House Restaurant INDIAN/SEAFOOD (off CT Rd; mains ₹60-130) Solid seafood on

the sands – like night and day compared to the hotel.

Shopping

Shops along New Marine Rd sell fabric, beads, shells, saris and bamboo work, while shops on CT Rd sell typical all-India trinkets. Near Jagannath Mandir, many places sell Jagannath images, palm-leaf paintings, handicrafts and Odishan hand-woven ikat, which you can buy in lengths or as readymade garments.

mismatched sculptures and precarious tree

PURIFECTLY SWEET The narrow lanes of Puri’s holy quarter are full of makeshift sweet shops, perhaps none more famous than Puri Cheesecake (Dolamandap Sahi, Temple Rd). Bikram Sahoo and his six brothers have been churning out this unique Puri delight for 45 years. It’s cottage cheese, sugar and cardamom cooked in an iron pan over an open flame. Though it’s more like a flan than traditional cheesecake, it’s oﬀ the mark by name only. A real treat and just ₹15 per piece. To find it, walk down Temple Rd from Jagganath Mandir and it’s about 400m on your right.

A couple of general grocery stores on CT Rd (mainly around the Hotel Lotus) stock a good range of toiletries that might be hard to find elsewhere in Odisha, eg women’s deodorant.

8 Information

8 Getting There & Away

Bus From the sprawling bus station near Gundicha Mandir, frequent buses serve Konark (₹17, one hour), Satapada (₹25, three hours), Bhubaneswar (₹32, two hours) and Kolkata (₹260 to ₹775, 12 hours). For Pipli and Raghurajpur, take the Bhubaneswar bus. For other destinations change at Bhubaneswar. Train Book well ahead if travelling during holiday and festival times. The booking counter at the train station can become incredibly crowded, but CT Rd agencies will book tickets for a small fee. The 12801 Purushottam Express travels to Delhi (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹493/1330/1822, 32 hours, 9.50pm), while Howrah can be reached on the 12838 Puri-Howrah Express (sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC ₹244/631/852/1416, nine hours, 8.05pm) and the 18410 Sri Jagannath Express (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹224/601/822, 10 hours, 10.50pm), both also stop in Balisore for access to Similipal National

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8 Getting Around

A few places along CT Rd (mainly around the Hotel Lotus) rent bicycles from ₹40 per day, and mopeds and motorcycles for ₹150 to ₹300. From CT Rd, cycle-rickshaws charge about ₹40 to the train station, bus station or Jagannath Mandir. Look for the appropriately attired Green Riders (p596) for no-hassle pricing.

Raghurajpur The fascinating artists’ village of Raghurajpur, 14km north of Puri, is two streets and 120 thatched brick houses adorned with murals of geometric patterns and mythological scenes – a traditional art form that has almost died out in Odisha. The village is most famous for its patachitra – work made using cloth coated with a mixture of gum and chalk made from tamarind seeds and then polished. With eye-aching attention and a very fine brush, artists mark out animals, flowers, gods and demons, which are then illuminated with bright colours. It makes for very beautiful and unique souvenirs. Take the Bhubaneswar bus and look for the ‘Raghurajpur The Craft Village’ signpost 11km north of Puri, then walk the last 1km (don’t get cornered by the few shops that have set up first but technically outside the village itself).

Konark % 06758 / POP 15,020

The iconic Sun Temple at Konark – a Unesco World Heritage Site – is one of India’s signature buildings and Odisha’s raison d’être. Most visitors are day-trippers from Bhubaneswar or Puri, but a new beach ‘resort’ nearby in Ramchandi Beach should tempt more travellers to sleep over. After all, the temple is most majestic at dawn. Originally nearer the coast (the sea has receded 3km), Konark was visible from far out at sea and known as the ‘Black Pagoda’

SOUTHE ASTERN ODISHA ODISHA 8 AG H U R A R JPUR 8

The main traveller-hotel stretch of CT Rd is a zoo of travel agents and moneychangers. Internet places have sprung up here; most charge ₹20 per hour. As well as a convenient branch in CT Rd, the State Bank of India has a number of reliable MasterCard and Visa ATMs around town. Gandhara International (%2224623; www .hotelgandhara.com; Hotel Gandhara, CT Rd; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sun) Travel agency. Headquarters Hospital (%223742; Grand Rd) ICICI Bank (Grand Rd; h8am-8pm) MasterCard and Visa ATM; does foreign exchange but not travellers cheques. Odisha Tourism CT Rd (%222664; CT Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat); train station h6am10pm) Tourist information, hotel, vehicle and tour booking, and a convenient start/finish point for day tours, though not particularly friendly. Police Station Seabeach (%222025; CT Rd); Town (%222039; Grand Rd) Post office (cnr Kutchery & Temple Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Samikshya Forex (CT Rd; h9am-10pm) Cashes travellers cheques and foreign currencies. Swapu (VIP Rd) Probably Odisha’s nicest pharmacy.

Park. The 12875 Neelachal Express goes to Varanasi (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹371/988/1348, 21 hours, 10.55am), continuing to Delhi, on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday. To Sambalpur, the 18304 Puri-Sambalpur Express (2nd class/chair ₹97/343, six hours, 3.45pm), runs daily. For Gopalpur-on-Sea, the 17479 Puri-Tirupati Express departs at 1pm (sleeper/3AC ₹120/301, five hours) daily except Tuesday and Saturday to Berhampur.

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by sailors, in contrast to Puri’s whitewashed Jagannath. The inland lighthouse near Chandrabhaga Beach is odd testament to that fact.

1 Sights

Archaeological Museum MUSEUM (admission ₹10; h8am-5pm) This interesting

(and refreshingly cool and quiet) museum, just west of Yatri Nivas, contains many impressive sculptures and carvings found during excavations of the Sun Temple.

Chandrabhaga Beach

BEACH

ODISHA S O U T H E A S T E R N O D I S H A

The local beach at Chandrabhaga is 3km from the temple down the Puri road. Walk, cycle or take an autorickshaw (₹60 return), or use the Konark–Puri bus. The beach is quieter and cleaner than Puri’s, but beware of strong currents; there have also been reports of thefts on the beach. To the east is a fishing village with plenty of boating activity at sunrise.

z Festivals & Events

The Konark Festival, steeped in traditional music and dance, takes place every December with the gorgeous Sun Temple as a backdrop.

4 Sleeping & Eating oLotus Eco Village

HOTEL $$$

(%236161; www.lotusresorthotels.com; Puri-Konark Marine Drive; villas/cottages incl breakfast from ₹5500/7500; a) About 7km from the Sun

Temple on pretty Ramchandi Beach, this new collection of rustic Canadian pine cottages is Konark’s only beach ‘resort’. It’s in a beautiful spot across a calm and swimmable islet catering to a few local fisherman and not much else; villas are surprisingly stylish inside and amenities include a small Ayurvedic spa, a nice sandside restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹200) and an organic vegetable garden.

SUN TEMPLE The massive Sun Temple (Indian/foreigner ₹10/250, video ₹25, guide per hr ₹100; hdawn8pm) was constructed in the mid-13th century, probably by Odishan king Narashimhadev I to celebrate his military victory over the Muslims, and was in use for maybe only three centuries. In the late 16th century the 40m-high sikhara (spire) partially collapsed: speculation about causes ranges from marauding Mughals removing the copper over the cupola to a ransacking Kalapahad displacing the Dadhinauti (arch stone), to simple wear and tear from recurring cyclones – the truth was apparently lost with Konark’s receding shoreline. The entire temple was conceived as the cosmic chariot of the sun god Surya. Seven mighty prancing horses (representing the days of the week) rear at the strain of moving this stone leviathan on 24 stone cartwheels (representing the hours of the day) that stand around the base. The temple was positioned so that dawn light would illuminate the deul (temple sanctury) interior and the presiding deity, which may have been moved to Jagannath Mandir in Puri in the 17th century. The gajasimha (main entrance) is guarded by two stone lions crushing elephants and leads to the intricately carved nritya mandapa (dancing hall). Steps, flanked by straining horses, rise to the still-standing jagamohan. Behind is the spireless deul, with its three impressive chlorite images of Surya aligned to catch the sun at dawn, noon and sunset. The base and walls present a chronicle in stone of Kalinga life; you’ll see women cooking and men hunting. Many are in the erotic style for which Konark is famous and include entwined couples as well as solitary exhibitionists. Around the grounds are a small shrine called Mayadevi Mandir; a deep, covered well; and the ruins of a brick temple. To the north are a couple of elephant statues, to the south a couple of horse statues, both trampling soldiers. If there’s anywhere worth hiring a guide, it’s here. The temple’s history is a complicated amalgam of fact and legend, and religious and secular imagery, and the guides’ explanations are thought-provoking. They’ll also show you features you might otherwise overlook – the woman with Japanese sandals, a giraﬀe (proving this area once traded with Africa) and even a man treating himself for venereal disease! Be sure your guide is registered. There are only 29 registered guides in Konark, listed on the name board by the entrance.

Labanya Lodge HOTEL $ (%9937073559; labanyalodge1@rediﬀmail.com; Sea Beach Rd; s ₹100-150, d ₹350-750, r with AC ₹850; ai) The best budget choice, this

friendly place has a garden and a fresh coconut drink to welcome guests. The brightcoloured rooms come in diﬀerent sizes, and there’s a rooftop terrace. This is the only internet facility (per hour ₹60) in town and there’s bike hire (per day ₹25). Yatri Nivas HOTEL $ (%236820; yatrinivaskonark.das@gmail.com; d from ₹450, with AC from ₹750; ai) A little slap of

Suntemple Hotel INDIAN $$ (mains ₹40-180) A busy, friendly place with a

big range of Indian veg and non-veg dishes, including recommended seafood dishes. It also takes a decent stab at traveller favourites like chips and banana pancakes.

8 Information

The road from Bhubaneswar swings around the temple and past a couple of hotels and eateries before continuing to meet the coastal road to Puri. To the north and east of the temple is the post oﬃce (h10am-5pm Mon-Sat), a State Bank of India ATM, the bus station and numerous souvenir shops. The tourist oﬃce (%236821; Yatrinivas hotel; h10am) can line up a registered guide to meet you at the temple.

8 Getting There & Away

Overcrowded minibuses regularly run along the coastal road between Puri and Konark (₹17, one hour). There are also regular departures to Bhubaneswar (₹40, two hours). Konark is included in OTDC tours from Bhubaneswar and Puri. An autorickshaw will take you to Puri, with a beach stop along the way, with negotiations usually beginning around ₹350 depending on the season. Because the road is flat, some diehards even cycle the 36km from Puri.

Chilika Lake Chilika Lake is Asia’s largest brackish lagoon. Swelling from 600 sq km in April/May to 1100 sq km in the monsoon, the shallow lake is separated from the Bay of Bengal by a 60km-long sand bar called Rajhansa. The lake is noted for the million-plus migratory birds – including grey-legged geese,

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SATAPADA % 06752

This small village, on a headland jutting southwestwards into the lake, is the starting point for most boat trips. There’s an Odisha Tourism office (%262077; Yatri Nivas hotel)

here. Boat trips from Satapada usually cruise towards the new sea mouth for a paddle in the sea and some dolphin and bird-spotting en route. Travellers have reported dolphins being (illegally) herded and otherwise harassed; make it clear you don’t want this. OTDC (%262077; Yatri Nivas hotel) has boats for hire (for large groups) or a three-hour tour (per person ₹100) at 10.30am, with another at 2pm if demand warrants.

Dolphin Motor Boat Association (%9090881551; Satapada jetty; 1-8hr trips per boat ₹600-1800), a cooperative of local boat own-

ers, has set-price trips mixing in dolphin sightseeing, Nalabana Bird Sanctuary and Kalijai Island temple. Chilika Visitor Centre (admission ₹10;

h10am-5pm)

is an exhibition on the lake, its wildlife and its human inhabitants. The centre has an upstairs observatory with a telescope and bird identification charts. A regular ferry (₹15, three hours) plies between Satapada and Balugaon just north of Barkul, departing at 1pm and returning at 7am the next day. Travel agents lining CT Rd in Puri can organise return trips on crowded buses for around ₹150, but four or more will be far more comfortable in a taxi (₹650), including about four hours in Satapada where you can organise your own boat. Yatri Nivas (%262077; d ₹460, with AC ₹1150; a) is typically rundown but perhaps

the most architecturally interesting of the government-run hotels, with its elevated walkways. The best rooms have balconies with lake views. The restaurant (mains ₹20 to ₹100) has a small selection of standard Indian fare and a couple of seafood dishes. Several shops and food stalls line the road to the jetty. Don’t forget to take water on your boat trip.

SOUTHE ASTERN 8 ODISHA 8 H I L I K A ODISHA C LAKE

fresh paint could do wonders for this OTDC hotel, set in a large, well-manicured garden next to the museum. Cheaper rooms are clean but unremarkable while deluxe rooms are nicer but not worth double the rupees.

herons, cranes and pink flamingos – that flock here in winter (from November to midJanuary) from as far away as Siberia and Iran and concentrate in a 3-sq-km area within the bird sanctuary on Nalabana Island. Other attractions are rare Irrawaddy dolphins near Satapada, the pristine beach along Rajhansa, and Kalijai Island temple where Hindu pilgrims flock for the Makar Mela festival in January.

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BARKUL % 06756

ODISHA S O U T H E A S T E R N O D I S H A

On the northern shore of Chilika, Barkul is just a scatter of houses, basic ‘lodges’ and food stalls on a lane oﬀ NH5. From here boats go to Nalabana and Kalijai Island. Nalabana is best visited in early morning and late afternoon, November to late February. With a minimum of seven people, the OTDC (Panthanivas Barkul) runs tours to Kalijia (₹50), and Nalabana and Kalijia (₹150). Otherwise, a boat with a quiet engine (that doesn’t scare birds) can be hired from ₹450 to ₹1600 per hour. Private boat owners (with no insurance and often no safety gear) charge around ₹450 an hour; a recommended operator is fisherman Babu Behera (%9937226378).

Panthanivas Barkul (%220488; r ₹750, with AC ₹1700; ai) has a great setting, with

comfortable rooms overlooking the garden to the lake. Newer cottages are clean and inviting, with lake views, but the most interesting option is the new houseboat, where an overnight stay, food and a two-hour cruise goes for ₹5500 (double occupancy). Frequent buses dash along NH5 between Bhubaneswar (₹45) and Berhampur (₹30). You can get oﬀ anywhere en route. A ferry (₹15) goes to Satapada at 7am from Balugaon, a couple of kilometres north of Barkul – autos and taxis whiz up and down the route. RAMBHA % 06810

The small town of Rambha is the nearest place to stay for turtle watching on Rushikulya beach. Not as commercial as Barkul, Rambha is a very pleasant little backwater.

Panthanivas Rambha (%278346; dm ₹180, d ₹650, d/d cottage with AC ₹1200/2400; a), about 200m oﬀ the main road, and 1km

west of Rambha centre, looks a tad battered outside but has fine rooms (the AC rooms are better) with big clean bathrooms and

balconies overlooking the lake. Newer cottages hog the charm and views, and all beds have mozzie nets. The restaurant (mains ₹30 to ₹100) is very good, especially the seafood. One-hour speedboat or three-hour motor boat tours of the lake are ₹1500. There are regular bus services to/from Bhubaneswar (₹100) and Berhampur (₹20).

Gopalpur-On-Sea % 0680 / POP 6660

If you dig nosing about crumbling seaside resorts, Gopalpur-on-Sea, a seaside town the British left to slide into history until Bengali holidaymakers rediscovered its attractions in the 1980s, is your bygone living museum on the ocean. Prior to this, it had a noble history as a seaport with connections to Southeast Asia, the evidence of which is still scattered through the town in the form of romantically deteriorating old buildings. It’s no paradise, but the peaceful and relatively clean beach is great for a stroll and it’s oddly charismatic in its own strange, antiquated way. People often tack on a few days here. Swimming in the nasty shore break at Gopalpur, where there are undercurrents, is dodgy, but it doesn’t stop locals.

1 Sights

Lighthouse LANDMARK (Indian/foreigner/child ₹10/25/3, camera ₹20; h3.30-5.30pm) Peering over the town is the

lighthouse, with its immaculate gardens and petite staﬀ cottages. It’s a late-afternoon draw card and after puﬃng up the spiral staircase you’re rewarded with expansive views and welcome cooling breezes.

4 Sleeping & Eating Gopalpur-on-Sea can be booked out during holiday and festival time. Prices here are for

MANGALAJODI On Chilika’s north shore, 60km northwest of Bhubaneswar, is this haven for resident and migratory birds, an ecotourism success story virtually unknown to the outside world until 2006. Six years prior, Sir Naiver Pikas Sargasso started Wild Oriss, a waterfowl safeguard committee that began the arduous process of converting bird poachers into protectors …and now ecotourism guides. In just a decade, the waterfowl population has climbed from 5000 to an estimated 40,000, spread among some 160 species. It’s all best viewed on a sunrise canoe ride in winter, when tepid sunlight illuminates the waters and the cackle of various species of ducks provides the only soundtrack.

ODISHA’S OLIVE RIDLEY TURTLES

the high season (November to January); discounts are available at other times. Hotel Sea Pearl HOTEL $ (%2242556; d ₹650-850, with AC ₹1150-1500; a) Any nearer the sea and it’d be in it; the

big and popular Sea Pearl has some great rooms, especially the upper-storey, beachfacing, non-AC rooms, and a little private entrance to the beach. Look at a few rooms; price doesn’t necessarily reflect quality here. There is a standard Indian-Chinese restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹120). Hotel Green Park HOTEL $ (%2243716; greenpark016@yahoo.com; d from ₹330, with AC ₹770; a) One street back from

the beach, Green Park is a clean, friendly and good-value option. Some rooms have front-facing balconies and there’s 24-hour checkout. Swosti Palm Resort HOTEL $$$ (%2243718; www.swosti.com; Main Rd; s/d ₹2600/3200; ai) Further back, and an un-

fortunate walk past a rubbish tip, the Swosti has the best accommodation in town with comfortable, well-appointed rooms. The excellent multicuisine restaurant, Lighthouse,

serves good seafood including authentic local dishes (mains ₹110 to ₹220) – and the cosy bar is the town’s one-man show, with an unusually varied selection of Indian beers. Krishna’s INDIAN, CHINESE $ (mains ₹10-70) Mainly Indian and Chinese

standards (nicely executed) and excellent kati rolls (p465). In the quiet season, if you ask, the kitchen can produce good pancakes, pasta and fried calamari or fish and chips. Expect to pay ₹100 and up, though, for some of the seafood. On our visit, the ‘chef’ was 17 years old, part of the super-friendly owner’s plan to give less fortunate youth a marketable skill.

8 Getting There & Away

Frequent, crowded minibuses travel to Berhampur (₹10, one hour), where you can catch onward transport by rail or bus. Alternatively, an autorickshaw will cost you about ₹150.

WESTERN ODISHA Although permits are no longer necessary, foreigners venturing into the tribal areas independently with plans to camp should register their details with the police in the

WESTERN ODISHA 8 OODISHA G PA L P U R-8 O N - S E A

One of the smallest sea turtles and a threatened species, the olive ridley marine turtle swims up from deeper waters beyond Sri Lanka to mate and lay eggs on Odisha’s beaches. The main nesting sites are Gahirmatha (Bhitarkanika National Park), Devi near Konark and Rushikulya. Turtle deaths due to fishing practices are unfortunately common. Although there are regulations, such as requiring the use of turtle exclusion devices (TEDs) on nets and banning fishing from certain areas, these laws are routinely flouted in Odisha. Casuarina trees have been planted to help preserve Devi beach but they occupy areas of soft sand that are necessary for a turtle hatchery. Other potential threats include nearby port developments and oil exploration. In January and February the turtles congregate near nesting beaches and, if conditions are right, come ashore. If conditions aren’t right, they reabsorb their eggs and leave without nesting. Hatchlings emerge 50 to 55 days later and are guided to the sea by the luminescence of the ocean and stars. They can be easily distracted by bright lights; unfortunately NH5 runs within 2km of Rushikulya beach. Members of local turtle clubs in the Sea Turtle Protection Committee gather up disoriented turtles and take them to the sea. The best place to see nesting and hatching is on the northern side of Rushikulya River, near the villages of Purunabandh and Gokharkuda, 20km from the nearest accommodation in Rambha. During nesting and hatching, activity takes place throughout the night: don’t use lights. Ask staﬀ at Panthanivas Rambha (p602) what conditions are like, or contact the Wildlife Society of Odisha (%0674-2311513; www.wildlifeOdisha.org; A320, Sahid Nagar, Bhubaneswar). Rickshaws between Rambha and Rushikulya cost ₹250 return if you stay an hour or two, ₹500 for the whole day.

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nearest city as a safety precaution. This is all done for you if you are on a tour or by your hotel otherwise.

Rayagada % 06856

ODISHA W E S T E R N O D I S H A

Big and gritty Rayagada is the base for visiting the weekly Wednesday Chatikona market at Bissamcuttack (about 40km north). Here, highly ornamented Dongria Kondh and Desia Kondh villagers from the surrounding Niayamgiri Hills bring their produce and wares to sell. Alongside piles of chillies and dried fish are bronze animal sculptures made locally using the lost wax method. The new Hotel Raj (%222270; Main Rd;

dm 12/24hr ₹100/200, s ₹300-400, d ₹350-450, with AC ₹575/700; a) is notable for its rare

(though close-quarters) dorm; cheap, wellmaintained rooms and restaurant and sweet shop. At the friendly Hotel Rajbhavan (%223777; Main Rd; r from ₹600, with AC from ₹1100; a), stick to higher category rooms.

There’s a good multicuisine restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹140). Both are just across the main road from the train station. Hotel Sai

International (%225554; JK Rd; s/d ₹600/700, with AC from ₹1100/1200; a) is marginally the

most comfortable and has a great multicuisine restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹165). There are three early morning local buses to Chatikona (₹20, two hours, 5.30am, 6.30am and 8am); as well as Jeypore (₹60 to ₹80, five hours) and Bhubaneswar (₹280, 12 hours). The 8447 Hirakhand Express leaves Bhubaneswar daily at 7.35pm and reaches Rayagada at 4.50am on its way to Koraput.

Jeypore % 06854 / POP 77,000

Jeypore is the traditional though least interesting base for visiting the amazingly colourful Onkadelli market. There is little reason to choose here over Koraput other than the 22km head start to Onkadelli. Modern, two-star side-by-side sister hotels Hotel Mani Krishna (%321139; manikrishna_ hotels@yahoo.com; MG Rd; s/d ₹595/695, with AC from ₹895/995; a) and Hotel Sai Krishna (%230253; www.hotelsaikrishna.com; MG Rd; s/d ₹595/695, with AC from ₹1295/1495; a) of-

fer spotless rooms, international cable and room service (at Mani) and a great Indian restaurant (at Sai). Hello Jeypore (%231127;

www.hoteljeypore.com; NH Rd; s/d incl breakfast

from ₹795/995, with AC ₹995/1195; aWs) is the

most comfortable. Freshly made-over rooms are shockingly boutique, including a few allwhite minimalist retreats. From the main bus station there are frequent buses to Koraput (₹15, one hour); others go to Berhampur (₹235 to ₹260, 12 hours), Bhubaneswar (₹360, 12 to 16 hours) and Rayagada (₹84, five hours). To reach Onkadelli (₹35, three hours) there are three morning buses, at 7am from the bus station, and 9am and 11.30am from the Ghoroi Bus Union’s oﬃce on Byepass Rd.

Koraput % 06852

Koraput is just a few kilometres from Jeypore and is a far more interesting base for visits to Onkadelli. The temple is fascinating, especially for non-Hindus who couldn’t enter the Jagannath temple in Puri. The tourist office (%250318; Jeypore Rd; h10am-9pm, closed 2nd Sat of month) has information and can arrange car hire. It’s housed in the stuck-in-limbo Panthanivas Koraput, which may never open. The Jagannath temple has an exhibition of gods of the diﬀerent states of India. There’s also a selection of local forms of ossa (also known as rangoli), traditional patterns made with white and coloured powders on doorsteps. At the back of the temple is a series of apses containing statuettes of Jagannath in his various guises and costumes. The brand-spanking-new Raj Residency (%251591; www.hotelrajresidency.com; Post Office Rd; s/d ₹450/650, with AC from ₹750/950; aW) is the best digs in town, oﬀering mod-

ern rooms with plasma TVs, exceptionally friendly service and – brace yourself – free wi-fi. Chicken tikka butter masala at the dimly lit Indian-Chinese restaurant (mains ₹25 to ₹120) was the best hotel meal we had in Western Odisha. The temple operates three budget hotels just outside its grounds. Atithi Bhaban

(%250610; atithibhaban@gmail.com; d ₹250, with AC ₹500; a) is the older building, with

a pure veg restaurant and simple rooms.

Atithi Nivas (s ₹150) is singles only, but solo

travellers are better oﬀ springing for a much nicer double at Atithi Bhaban. Yatri Nivas (%9337622798; d ₹175) has distinctly basic crashpads. The 18447/8 Hirakhand Express plies daily between Bhubaneswar and Koraput. There are regular buses to Jeypore (₹12 to

ODISHA’S INDIGENOUS TRIBES

» Adivasis often speak little Hindi or Odia, and usually no English.

» Various cultural issues could affect your visit: the Dongria Kondh don’t welcome strangers due to sensitive mining issues; alcohol sometimes makes the Bonda violent. » Some tour operators have developed longstanding relationships with the tribes, providing a level of interaction, experience and welcome not otherwise possible.

Some operators are more sensitive to the issues than others; ask about the size of your group and attitudes to photography, and try to get a feel for how interactions will be handled. Communal violence can flare up; tourists haven’t been targeted but a good operator should be honest about and avoid areas experiencing trouble. Try to meet the guide who will travel with you, not just the boss in the oﬃce. See p595 and p590 for recommended agencies.

₹15, 45 minutes) and less frequent service to Sambalpur (₹280, 14 hours) and Bhubaneswar (non-AC/AC ₹330/440, 12 hours).

Onkadelli This small village, 65km from Jeypore, has a most remarkable and vibrant Thursday market (best time 10am to 1pm) that throngs with Bonda, Gadaba, Mali and Didai villagers. In the morning, it’s all business on the vegetable side; in the afternoon, the alcohol market revs up, and entire families get sloshed – including infants. The market is popular with tour groups. Discreet photographs can be taken without issue, but if you’re blatant or expect someone to pose for you, consent should be sought

and will often come with a request for ₹10 or more; carry small-denomination notes and stick to the women – men have been known to throw stones at photographers. Souvenir shopping is pretty much limited to jewellery sold by Bonda women. Onkadelli is best accessed by hire car and should only be visited with a professional guide. You’ll get much more out of the experience with a guide, who will usually be able to take you to visit craftspeople, not to mention keep the peace if things get ugly among the alcohol and the bows and arrows. This doesn’t mean you have to come all the way from Bhubaneswar or Puri with a group or guide – it’s feasible to come to Jeypore or Koraput independently and organise a guide at your hotel.

WESTERN ODISHA 8 NODISHA O K A D E L L8I

Sixty-two tribal (Adivasi) groups live in an area that encompasses Odisha, Chhattisgarh and Andhra Pradesh. In Odisha they account for one-quarter of the state’s population and mostly inhabit the jungles and hilly regions of the centre and southwest. Their distinctive cultures are expressed in music, dance and arts. Most Adivasis were originally animists but over the last 30 years have been targeted (with varying degrees of success and cultural sensitivity) by Christian missionaries, Hindu activists and government development agencies. Naxalites (members of an ultraleftist political movement) have used Adivasis as foot soldiers while claiming to defend them. Visits are possible to some villages and haats (village markets) that Adivasis attend. There are arguments regarding the morality of visiting Adivasi areas. At the haats you are free to interact with and buy directly from the villagers but tourism still brings very little income to the tribes. Of the more populous tribes, the Kondh number about one million and are based around Koraput in the southwest, Rayagada and the Kandhamel District in the central west. The 500,000-plus Santal live around Baripada and Khiching in the far north. The 300,000 Saura live near Gunupur near the border with Andhra Pradesh. The Bonda, known as the ‘Naked People’ for wearing minimal clothing but incredibly colourful and intricate accessories, have a population of about 5000 and live in the hills near Koraput. Important reasons to visit these areas on an organised tour: » Some tribal areas are hard to find and not accessible by public transport.

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606

CHANDORI SAI Some 50km northeast of Koraput in the tiny Adivasis village of Goudaguda, you’ll find this Australian-run guesthouse (%9443342241; www.chandoorisai.com; s/d incl meals 4000/5000; i), Odisha’s most stylish rural accommodation bar none. Built from the ground up by the hands of some 60 Poraja tribal men and women, it’s a sustainable earthen-walled refuge with beautiful terracotta flooring and bamboo-sheeted ceilings. The main lobby is dressed up with colourful hanging saris and the pottery, a speciality of the village, is present throughout. Guests interact with tribal women, who act as cultural ambassadors on property and guides through the village. It’s about as close as you can get to a brief assimilation into the vibrant Adivasis way of life. The owner is a hard-driving ex–oil man, who runs the hospitality on a tight leash. To reach Chandori Sai, catch the 18447 Hirakhand Express towards Koraput and get oﬀ at Kakirigumma, a 7.37am arrival. The guesthouse will pick you up from there.

ODISHA N O R T H E A S T E R N O D I S H A

Sambalpur % 0663 / POP 154,170

Sambalpur is the centre for the textile industry spread over western Odisha, and Gole Bazaar is the place to buy ikat or sambalpuri weaving. The town is a base for nearby Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary on the edge of Hirakud Dam. NH6 passes through Sambalpur to become VSS Marg. Laxmi Talkies Rd crosses VSS Marg and leads down to the government bus stand and Gole Bazaar.

Odisha Tourism (%2411118; Panthanivas Sambalpur, Brooks Hill; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd Sat of month) can provide informa-

tion on Debrigarh. The lobby of all-AC Hotel Uphar Palace

Hotel (%2400519; VSS Marg; s ₹995-1095, d ₹10951195; a) needs dusting, but rooms are in pretty

good shape and are good value compared to Sheela. The Sharda restaurant has an Indian and Chinese menu (mains ₹20 to ₹215). The nicest – though not by much – is Sheela Tow-

ers (%2403111; www.sheelatowers.com; VSS Marg; s/d from ₹995/1095; aiW), with a range of

comfortable rooms. The modern art deco restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹185) does Indian, Chinese and Continental. The New Hong Kong

Restaurant (VSS Marg; mains ₹45-220; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sun) draws in crowds from far and

wide, anxious to get down some authentic Chinese cuisine in a sea of curry. The Chen family has been at it for two decades. The government bus stand has buses running to Jeypore (₹260, 12 hours), Koraput (₹275, 13 hours) and Berhampur (₹162, 12 hours). Travel agencies on Modipada Rd between the government bus station and Laxmi Talkies Rd book (usually more comfortable) buses that leave from the private Ainthapali bus stand, 3km from the city centre (₹20 by

cycle-rickshaw) during the day (night buses leave from in front of the agency counters). Several buses go to Bhubaneswar (₹205 to ₹260), Raipur (₹180, eight hours) and Jashipur for Similipal (₹190, seven hours). The 18451 Tapaswini Express goes to Puri (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹176/463/632, nine hours, 10.40pm) via Bhubaneswar (₹158/413/563, seven hours). The 18006 Koraput-Howrah Express goes to Howrah (₹239/643/881, 10 hours, 6.15pm).

Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary The 347-sq-km Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary (www.debrigarh.org; per day Indian/foreigner ₹20/1000; h6am-6pm 15 Nov-15 Jun), 40km

from Sambalpur, is an easy day out. Mainly dry deciduous forest blankets the Barapahad Hills down to the shores of the vast Hirakud reservoir, a home for migratory birds in winter. Wildlife here includes deer, antelopes, sloth bears, langur monkeys and the ever-elusive tigers and leopards. Access to the sanctuary usually requires a 4WD, which can be arranged through Odisha Tourism, a private tour agency, or your hotel in Sambalpur for about ₹1700 for a full day.

NORTHEASTERN ODISHA Similipal National Park % 06792

The 2750-sq-km Similipal National Park

(www.similipal.org; per day Indian/foreigner ₹40/1000, camera per 3 days ₹50/100; h6amnoon day visitor, to 2pm 15 Nov-15 Jun with accom-

modation reservation) is Odisha’s prime wild-

(%06797-232474; National Park, Jashipur, Mayurbhanj District), or the field director, Similipal Tiger Reserve Project (%06792-252593; Bhanjpur, Baripada, Mayurbhanj District).

Visitors either come on an organised tour or charter a vehicle in Jashipur (₹1500 per day for 4WD) or Baripada (₹2500); the latter is pricier but you will see more of the park. Hiring a guide (around ₹500 in Jashipur, ₹800 in Baripada) is advisable. If you want to avoid the hassles of arranging permits, transport, food and accommodation, an organised tour from Bhubaneswar, Puri or Baripada is the answer. Forest Department bungalows (d Indian/foreigner from ₹600/800) has six sets of

bungalows; Chahala, Joranda and Newana are best for animal spottings and Barheipani for views. The very basic accommodation has to be booked well in advance with the field director at Baripada. You have to bring your own food (no meat or alcohol allowed) and water. In March 2009 Maoist rebels (or the timber mafia, depending on who you believe)

blew up three forest oﬃces inside the park and raided the Chahala bungalow, robbing tourists who were staying there. The park was closed as a result and reopened for the 2011 season for day trips only. Check with tour operators or the field director for the most current information.

607

Jashipur % 06797

This is an entry point for Similipal and a place to collect an entry permit and organise a guide and transport. Accommodation is very limited. Sairam Holiday Home (%232827; NH6; s from ₹80, d from ₹250, with AC from ₹550; a) has basic rooms with mat-

tresses like slabs of granite save the deluxe rooms (₹650). The owner can help arrange transport to Similipal. Regular buses serve Sambalpur (₹150 to ₹200, seven hours), Bhubaneswar (₹150 to ₹170, nine hours), Baripada (₹55 to ₹70, 2½ hours), Balisore (₹65 to ₹85, 3½ hours) – for train connections – and Kolkata (₹140 to ₹180, seven hours).

Baripada % 06792 / POP 95,000

The ramshackle transit hub of Baripada is the best place to organise a Similipal visit; if you’re planning an independent trip, see Odisha Tourism (%252710; Baghra Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd Sat in month). Recommended agency Mayur Tours & Travels (%253567; mayurtour@rediﬀmail.com; Lal Bazaar) can also organise tours and has

capable guides. The best of the scant sleeping options, the clean-but-fading Hotel Ambika (%252557;

hotel_ambika@yahoo.com; s/d from ₹300/350, with AC ₹1000;a) has a great restaurant, local

workers’ bar and large rooms. The hotel can organise Similipal trips, language barrier notwithstanding. Regular buses go to Kolkata (₹150, five hours), Bhubaneswar (₹170 to ₹207, five hours), Balasore (₹30 to ₹40, 1½ hours) and Jashipur (₹50 to ₹55, 2½ hours). The 2892 Bhubaneswar-Baripada Express (2ndclass/AC chair ₹92/339, five hours, 5pm) runs from Bhubaneswar every day except Saturday, and returns as the 2891 at 5am every day except Sunday.

NORTHE ASTERN 8 ODISHA J8A S H I P U ODISHA R

life sanctuary. The scenery is remarkable: a massif of prominent hills creased by valleys and gorges, made dramatic by plunging waterfalls, including the spectacular 400m-high Barheipani Waterfall and the 150m-high Joranda Waterfall. The jungle is an atmospheric mix of dense sal forest and rolling open savannah. The core area is only 850 sq km and much of the southern part is closed to visitors. There’s a huge range of reptile, bird and mammal species. The tigers aren’t tracked and sightings are extremely rare – the best chance to spot them will be at the Joranda salt lick. What you’re more likely to see is a wild elephant (there are over 400 in the park), most probably at the Chahala salt lick. The best time to visit is early in the season before high visitor numbers aﬀect animal behaviour. There are two entrances, Tulsibani, 15km from Jashipur, on the northwestern side, and Pithabata, near Lulung, 25km west of Baripada. Options are a day visit or an overnight stay within the park. Overnight accommodation needs to be booked 30 days in advance, and remember you’ll have to pay the ₹1000 entry fee for both days you’re here. Entry permits can be obtained in advance from the assistant conservator of forests

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Balasore POP 106,000

Balasore, the first major town in northern Odisha geographically, was once an important trading centre. Now it’s a staging post for Chandipur, Similipal National Park and the main rail line. The oﬃce of Odisha Tourism (%262048; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) is located in Panthanivas Balasore but skip the hotel. Best option here is the new and eager Hotel Chandrabhaga

(%261808; Nuasahi; s/d from ₹350/450, with AC from ₹800/900; a), 1km from the bus station,

ODISHA N O R T H E A S T E R N O D I S H A

with spotless, fantastic-value rooms with large balconies. Don’t spring for deluxe – the only diﬀerence is free water and tea. All rooms have king-size beds, which could be an issue for non-couples. Tolerable for a quick overnight is Hotel Swarnachudaa (%262657; s/d/tr from ₹120/150/180, s/d with AC from ₹550/650; a), just 100m from the bus

stand; the AC rooms are worth the splurge. From the bus stand at Remuna Golai, there is a 5am bus for Kolkata (₹160, 4½ hours) and more frequently for Bhubaneswar (₹130 to ₹160, five hours). For access to Similipal, there’s a frequent service to Baripada (₹30, 1½ hours). The sporadic service to Chandipur makes an autorickshaw (₹200) a better option. Balasore is on the main rail line. Options include the 12837 Howrah-Puri Express departing for Puri daily at 1.55am (sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC ₹163/376/534/890, five hours). For Chennai, the 12841 Howrah-Chennai Coromandel Express calls at 6.05pm (sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC ₹426/1143/1561/2637, 11½ hours).

Chandipur % 06782

Throw down a few hostels, a couple of good bars and a moonlight DJ or two and this laid-back seaside village could be a very easy place to lose a few days. Unfortunately, Chandipur, which ambles down to the ocean through a short avenue of casuarina and palm trees, seems content as an underachiever. The draw here is a huge and beautiful beach: the sea recedes an astonishing 4km at low tide – a sight to see. It’s safe to swim here when there’s enough water.

Hotel Shubham (%270025; www.hotelshub ham.com; d from ₹550, with AC from ₹1000; a) of-

fers spotless and comfortable rooms (30% of

which are new or just renovated), a pleasant garden and an average restaurant. Pan-

thanivas Chandipur (%270051; dm ₹200, d from ₹750, with AC from ₹1150; ai) has a great

location overlooking the beach, but is otherwise not the best value in town. Hotel Golden (mains ₹30-150), on the main drag, does a limited selection of mainly veg Indian food, plus recommended local seafood; the excellent crab masala (₹150) is the house speciality, served whole. Regular buses ply the NH5 between Bhubaneswar and Balasore. From Balasore, taxis and autorickshaws can take you the 15km to Chandipur.

Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary Three rivers flow out to sea at Bhitarkanika forming a tidal maze of muddy creeks and mangroves. Most of this 672-sq-km delta forms Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary, a significant biodiversity hotspot. The only way to get around the sanctuary is by boat. Many boats are a little battered, with old tyres on ropes acting as life preservers: this definitely adds piquancy to the thrill of boating on waters where enormous crocodiles can suddenly surface rather close by.

1 Sights oBhitarkanika Wildlife

NATURE RESERVE Sanctuary (www.bhitarkanika.org; Indian/foreigner per day ₹20/1000, camera/video ₹25/500; hclosed 15 May-31 Jul) The best time to visit is from

December to February. Hundreds of massive estuarine crocodiles bask on mud flats waiting for the next meal to swim by. Birdwatchers will find eight species of brilliantly coloured kingfishers, plus 207 other species. First stop is a permit check at Khola jetty before chugging on to Dangmal Island, where you’ll find a successful crocodile breeding and conservation program (and accommodation). Pythons, water monitors, baboons, wild boar and numerous spotted deer can also be seen. Herons arrive at Bagagahan Island in early June and nest until early December, when they move on to Chilika Lake. Raucous open-billed storks have set up a permanent rookery here. The island is reached by a narrow pathway leading to a watchtower,

where you can spy on a mass of herons and storks nesting in the treetops. Rigagada

HINDU TEMPLE

Back at Khola, a 2km walk leads to Rigagada with its interesting 18th-century Jagannath temple, built with some erotica in Kalinga style. While there, take an amble through this typical Odishan village.

4 Sleeping & Eating oNature Camp

CAMPGROUND $$$

(%09437016054; www.bhitarkanikatour.com; dm/ s/d/tr/q incl meals₹1000/3000/3500/4000/5000)

Forest rest houses GUESTHOUSE $ (r per person Indian ₹100-600, foreigner ₹2001200) The distant second (and only other)

choice at Dangmal has various options with solar lights, mosquito nets, no fans and lots of rules. You can book through the divisional forest officer in Rajnapur or through a travel agency in Bhubaneswar.

Aranya Nivas HOTEL $ (%06786-220397; Chandbali; dm ₹200, r from ₹600, with AC from ₹1150; a) Old, unremark-

able rooms and new deluxe rooms (from ₹1500) that are more spacious with small touches like crown mouldings. Either way, mozzies abound. It’s 50m from the Chandbali jetty.

8 Information

Permits, accommodation and boat transport can all be organised in the small port of Chandbali. Organise a boat (per day ₹2000, negotiable) with one of the private operators, such as the recommended Sanjog Travels (% 06786220495, 9937702517; Chandbali Jetty), which can also help with obtaining the permit from the divisional forest oﬃcer (% 06729-272460, 9437037370; Rajnagar). If you make arrangements in advance, you can shave one hour oﬀ the boat travel time by arranging to leave from the jetty in Jayanagar,

609

8 Getting There & Away

Chandbali is 55km and two hours southeast of Bhadrak on NH5. Non-AC/AC buses go from Chandbali bazaar to Bhadrak (₹30/40), Bhubaneswar (₹80/130) and Cuttack (₹65/120); only non-AC goes to Kolkata (₹180). The 12821/2 Howrah-Bhubaneswar Dhauli Express stops in Bhadrak at 10.30am going south to Bhubaneswar (2nd class/AC chair ₹77/244, two hours); and at 3.30pm going north to Howrah (₹104/346, five hours).

Ratnagiri, Udayagiri & Lalitgiri These Buddhist ruins are about 60km northeast of Cuttack. Currently there’s no accommodation and inadequate transport, so the only feasible way to visit is by hire car organised in Bhubaneswar or Puri. RATNAGIRI

Ratnagiri has the most interesting and extensive ruins (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk). Two large monasteries flourished here from the 6th to 12th centuries. Noteworthy are an exquisitely carved doorway and the remains of a 10m-high stupa. The excellent museum (h8am-5pm) contains beautiful sculptures from the three sites. UDAYAGIRI Another monastery complex is being exca-

vated here in lush surrounds. There’s a large pyramidal brick stupa with a seated Buddha and some beautiful doorjamb carvings. There’s no entry fee, but unhelpful guides may attach themselves to you then ask for a donation (not compulsory).

LALITGIRI Several monastery ruins (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk) are scattered

up a hillside leading to a small museum and a hillock crowned with a shallow stupa. During excavations of the stupa in the 1970s, a casket containing gold and silver relics was found. It’s also notable for its surrounding village atmosphere.

NORTHE ASTERN ODISHA S LGEI R EP I NI G ODISHA S LAT R E ENPAG I NIG R I&, UEDAYA AT I N I I&N LGA&L IETAT GIR

A special experience awaits at this small tented camp in the heart of Dangmal Village, built with the help of villagers and with a sustainable foot on the ground just steps from the sanctuary. The stylish Swiss Cottage tents are fully equipped with electricity, fans, sitdown flush toilets and pleasant terraces, and the restaurant serves wonderful rustic Odisha cuisine. Three-day/two-night packages (₹5000 to ₹7900 per person based on double occupancy) begin and end in Bhubaneswar and include full board, entrance fees, a boat trip, a nature trek and transport.

20km southeast of Chandbali. Take any bus from Bhubaneswar to Chandbali, get oﬀ in Kanika Chowk and take an autorickshaw (₹100) to Jaynagar. You can also take an autorickshaw from Chandbali (₹150). Contact Nature Camp (p609) or a travel agent in Bhubaneswar to arrange a boat.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh Gwalior . . . . . . . . . . . . 613 Orchha . . . . . . . . . . . . . 618 Khajuraho . . . . . . . . . .623 Bhopal . . . . . . . . . . . . .633 Pachmarhi. . . . . . . . . .643 Ujjain . . . . . . . . . . . . . .646 Indore . . . . . . . . . . . . .648 Omkareshwar . . . . . . . 651 Maheshwar . . . . . . . . .653 Mandu . . . . . . . . . . . . .654 Jabalpur . . . . . . . . . . .658 Chhattisgarh . . . . . . . 664 Jagdalpur . . . . . . . . . .666

Best Places to Eat » Raja’s Café (p630)

» Bapu Ki Kutia (p636) » Didi’s Cafe (p622)

» Girnar Thali Restaurant (p665)

Why Go? The vast but unassuming state of Madhya Pradesh (MP) doesn’t roar for attention like its more celebrated neighbours. Instead it growls deeply from within, oﬀering the promise of something big and beautiful for those prepared to prowl the plains. Tiger parks are the star attraction, and your chances of spotting a wild tiger here are good, but lesser-known treasures abound: Khajuraho’s temples display some of the finest temple art in the world and are the architectural highlight of a region scattered with ruined palaces, majestic hilltop forts, ancient Buddhist stupas and India’s biggest and smallest mosques. Laidback traveller havens like Orchha and Omkareshwar add some chill-out flavour to the region, but the more adventurous will love a foray into tribal Chhattisgarh, which split from Madhya Pradesh in 2000 and remains a world far removed from mainstream Indian culture.

When to Go Bhopal °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

» Shivam Restaurant (p647)

16/400 0/32

Best Places to Stay » Orchha Homestay (p622) » Evelyn’s Own (p645)

» Labboo’s Cafe (p653)

» Manu Guest House (p652) » Hotel Sheesh Mahal (p621)

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Nov–Feb Most pleasant time to visit central India, although hilltops will still be chilly.

Apr–Jun Best chance of spotting tigers; vegetation is thin and water sources are few.

Jul–Sep Monsoon time, but places like Chhattisgarh are at their most beautiful.

Food & Drink The combined region of Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh is enormous so, naturally, food varies across the land. Bhopal produces some exquisite meat and fish dishes as well as some great biryanis and kebabs. In the dryer regions of the north and west, you’ll find more wheat-based foods and less rice. There’s wonderful fruit to be had, especially in the lush south and southeast regions – mangoes and custard apples are the highlights – and those brave enough to venture to the tribal markets of Chhattisgarh will see locals eating live ants. The favourite tipple, meanwhile, is a liquor made from the flowers of the mahuwa tree, which you’d be advised to drink with caution – it’s potent.

DON’T MISS Madhya Pradesh is bursting at the seams with fabulous places to visit, but two things you really shouldn’t leave without seeing (or at least attempting to see) are the exquisite temples of Khajuraho and India’s most magnificent creature – the tiger.

Top State Festivals » Festival of Dance (Feb/Mar, Khajuraho, p623) Week-long event with the cream of Indian classical dancers performing amid floodlit temples. » Shivaratri Mela (Feb/Mar, Pachmarhi, p643) Up to 100,000 Shaivite pilgrims, sadhus (spiritual men) and Adivasis (tribal people) attend celebrations at Mahadeo Temple. Participants bring symbolic tridents and hike up Chauragarh Hill to plant them by the Shiva shrine.

» Magh Mela (Apr/May, Ujjain, p646) Huge annual religious fair held on the banks of the Shipra River at Ujjain; pilgrim numbers increase dramatically every 12th year for the massive Kumbh Mela (next held in Ujjain in 2016). » Ahilyabai Holkar’s Birthday (Apr/May, Maheshwar, p653) The Holkar queen’s birthday is celebrated with palanquin (enclosed seats carried on poles on four men’s shoulders) processions through the town.

» Navratri (Sep/Oct, Ujjain, p647)The Festival of Nine Nights, leading up to Dussehra, is celebrated with particular fervour in Ujjain. Lamps on the large pillars in Harsiddhi Mandir are lit. » Dussehra (Oct, Jagdalpur, p666) Dedicated to local goddess Danteshwari, this 75-day festival culminates in eight days of (immense) chariot-pulling around the streets.

» Tansen Music Festival (Nov/Dec, Gwalior, p616) Four-day music festival attracting classical musicians and singers from all over India; free performances are usually staged at the tomb of Tansen, one of the most revered composermusicians of Hindustani classical music.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY No international airports here, but the main cities – Bhopal, Indore, Jabalpur and Raipur – plus big tourist spots such as Khajuraho are connected by rail and air to one or more of Delhi, Mumbai (Bombay) and Kolkata (Calcutta).

Fast Facts » Population: 72.6 million (Madhya Pradesh), 25.5 million (Chhattisgarh)

» Area: 308,000 sq km (Madhya Pradesh), 135,000 sq km (Chhattisgarh) » Capital: Bhopal (Madhya Pradesh), Raipur (Chhattisgarh) » Main languages: Hindi, regional tribal languages

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹500, $$ ₹500 to ₹2500, $$$ above ₹2500

» Eating prices: $ dishes below ₹50, $$ ₹50 to ₹100, $$$ above ₹100

Top Tip If you’re serious about seeing a tiger, plan and budget for at least three days of jeep safaris, with two safaris each day.

Resources » Madhya Pradesh Tourist Board (www.mptourism .com) » Chhattisgarh Tourist Board (www.chhattisgarh tourism.net)

» Tiger protection www .saveourtigers.com

Agra

Jaipur

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Kanpur

RAJASTHAN

Gwalior

UTTAR PRADESH

25 86

Jhansi

Shivpuri Kota

Mahoba Harpalpur Raneh

Falls

Orchha

Madhav (Shivpuri) National Park

Chhatarpur Bamitha Lalitpur

27 Khajuraho Panna Satna Madla Rewa Panna Amarpatan National Park

Mandsaur Biaora

Udayapur

Sagar

Islamnagar

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH

Dhar

Indore

Mandu Dhamnod

Omkareshwar

Maheshwar

Khandwa

Pachmarhi

Chhindwara

Betul

Mandla Chiraidongri Khatiya Seoni

Pench Tiger Reserve (National Park) 3

Dindori

Pipariya

Satpura National Park

Bandhavgarh National Park

Umaria

Jabalpur

Narsinghpur Obaidullaganj 12

Bhimbetka Hoshangabad Timurni

MADHYA PRADESH

Vidisha Sanchi Bhojpur

Ratlam Ujjain

Bhopal

Tala

Katni

Dewas

Allahabad Chitrakoot

Khawasa

Nagpur

Kanha National Park Bhoramdeo Bilaspur 26

Barnawapara Sanctuary (National Park)

Balaghat Raipur

Sirpur

CHHATTISGARH Dhamtari

MAHARASHTRA

Udanti Sanctuary (National Park)

Bastar Region

Kondagaon Nagarnar Bastar Jagdalpur Tokapal Chingitarai Pakhnar Kanger Valley Darbha National Kuknar

Chitrakote Falls

ANDHRA PRADESH

Park

Madhya Pradesh & Chhattisgarh Highlights 1 Venture deep into tiger

territory at one of MP’s three big tiger parks (p613)

2 Blush at the erotic

carvings on the exquisite temples in Khajuraho (p623)

3 Choose to bed down in a former palace or a mud-hut homestay in laidback Orchha (p618)

4 Watch brave locals eat live red ants at a tribal market around Jagdalpur in Chhattisgarh (p667)

5 Cool oﬀ under a waterfall

in Pachmarhi (p643), MP’s only hill station

6 Chill out on the Omshaped holy island of Omkareshwar (p651)

7 Cycle around India’s finest Afghan ruins at the hilltop getaway of Mandu (p654) 8 Soak up the spiritual

vibe at the bathing ghats in historical Maheshwar (p653)

History

With the States Reorganisation Act of 1956, several former states were combined to form Madhya Pradesh. In 2000, Chhattisgarh became an independent state.

613

NORTHERN MADHYA PRADESH Gwalior % 0751 / POP 865,548

Famous for its medieval hilltop fort, Gwalior makes an interesting stop en route to some of the better-known destinations in this part of India. The city also houses the eccentric Jai Vilas Palace, home of the Scindia Museum and the historic seat of the Scindias, one of the country’s most revered families. The Tansen Music Festival (p611) – a fourday classical music event attracting performers from all over India – comes to town in November/December. History

Gwalior’s legendary beginning stems from the 8th century when a hermit known as Gwalipa is said to have cured the Rajput chieftain Suraj Sen of leprosy using water from Suraj Kund tank (which still remains in Gwalior fort). Renaming him Suhan Pal, he foretold that Suhan’s descendants would remain in power as long as they retained the name Pal. Suhan’s next 83 descendants did just that, but number 84 changed his name to Tej Karan and, naturally, lost his kingdom. In 1398 the Tomar dynasty came to power. Gwalior Fort became the focus of continual clashes with neighbouring powers and

TOP TIGER PARKS Madhya Pradesh is blessed with five tiger parks, but most tourists don’t have the time or money to visit more than one. To help you decide where best to prowl, here’s a quick guide to tiger territory in MP: » Kanha The biggest and most professionally run of the lot. Can venture deep into the forests. Chances of a tiger: very good.

» Bandhavgarh Budget-travellers’ favourite with highest density of tigers, but sightings can feel a bit ‘rush and grab’. Chances: excellent. » Pench Quiet and more exclusive. Most people prebook here. Chances: good.

» Panna Three relocated tigers are slowly rebuilding Panna’s once-decimated tiger population. Boat safaris here can be fun. Chances: extremely slim.

» Satpura Beautiful hilltop landscape, but come here for the waterfalls and the hiking rather than the tigers. Chances: slim.

NORTHERN ADESH MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH GWA L I O R

Virtually all phases of Indian history made their mark on the region historically known as Malwa, starting with the rock paintings at Bhimbetka (p639) and Pachmarhi (p643), which date back more than 10,000 years. They tell of a cultural succession through the late Stone Age to the start of recorded history in the 3rd century BC, when the Buddhist emperor Ashoka (see boxed text, p1087) controlled the Mauryan empire from Malwa and built Sanchi’s Great Stupa (p640). The Mauryas were followed by the Sungas and the Guptas (see p1085) – Chandragupta II (r AD 382–401) ruled from Ujjain and had the caves cut at Udaigiri (p642) – before the Huns rampaged across the state. Around 1000 years ago the Parmaras reigned in southwest Madhya Pradesh – notably Raja Bhoj, who ruled for over half a century across this region and who founded the now-ruined town of Bhojpur, the magnificent fort of Mandu and, according to some scholars, the city of Bhopal. The Chandelas ruled over much of central India from the 9th to the 13th centuries. It was their nimble-fingered sculptors who enlivened with erotic scenes the facades of some 85 temples in Khajuraho (p623) before the dynasty eventually moved its capital from Khajuraho to Mahoba. Between the 12th and 16th centuries, the region experienced continuing struggles between Hindu and Muslim rulers (p1088), and Mandu was the scene of some decisive clashes. The Mughals were eventually superseded by the Marathas (p1091) after a 27-year-long war (1681–1707) – the longest in India’s history. The Marathas went on to rule the region for more than a century before they fell to the British (1818) for whom the Scindia maharajas of Gwalior (p613) were powerful allies.

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reached its ascendancy under Raja Man Singh (r 1486–1516). Two centuries of Mughal possession followed, ending with the fort’s capture by the Marathas in 1754. Over the next 50 years the fort changed hands several times, including twice to the British before finally passing to the Scindias. During the First War of Independence (Indian Uprising) in 1857, Maharaja Jayajirao remained loyal to the British but his troops rebelled, and in mid-1858 the fort was the scene of some of the uprising’s final events. Near here the British defeated rebel leader Tantia Topi and it was in the

final assault on the fort that the rani (wife) of Jhansi was killed (see p382).

1 Sights

Gwalior Fort FORT (hdawn-dusk) Perched majestically on top

of a 3km-long plateau overlooking Gwalior, this hilltop fort is an imposing yet eyecatching sight, with the circular towers of the dominating Man Singh Palace ringed with turquoise tiles. There are two approaches to the fort, both steep treks. Rickshaws can drive you up to Urvai, the western gate, so it’s tempt-

Gwalior

ÿ Sleeping 17 Hotel Chandralok.................................D4 18 Hotel DM ..............................................D4 19 Hotel Gwalior Regency........................D4 20 Hotel Mayur .........................................C4 21 Tansen Residency ...............................D4 22 Usha Kiran Palace ...............................A5 ú Eating 23 Indian Coffee House............................D3 Silver Saloon .............................. (see 22) 24 Zayka ....................................................B4 Drinking Bada Bar..................................... (see 22) ý Entertainment 25 Sound-and-Light Show ....................... B1 þ Shopping 26 Arihant Emporium...............................A5 Information 27 Gwalior Fort Ticket Counter ............... B1 MP Tourism................................. (see 21)

ing to go that way because vehicles cannot drive up from the eastern entrance. But the western entrance is an anticlimax compared with the formidable view of the fort from the eastern approach, which makes entering

615

₹50/250; hEnglish 8.30pm Mar-Oct, 7.30pm NovFeb, Hindi 7.30pm Mar-Oct, 6.30pm Nov-Feb) is

held nightly in the open-air amphitheatre. Much of the fort is now occupied by the prestigious private Scindia School, established by Maharaja Madhavrao Scindia in 1897 for the education of Indian nobility.

Man Singh Palace PALACE This imperial-style palace is one of the more unusually decorated monuments you’ll see in India: the outer walls include a frieze of yellow ducks! These – and mosaic tiling of elephants, tigers and crocodiles in blue, yellow and green – give it its alternative identity of Chit Mandir (Painted Palace). Built by Tomar ruler Man Singh between 1486 and 1516, this fine example of early Hindu architecture consists of two open courts surrounded by apartments on two levels. Below ground lie another two storeys constructed for hot weather, connected by ‘speaking tubes’ built into the walls, and used by the Mughals as prison cells. Rock Sculptures SCULPTURES While there are sculptures carved into the rock at a few points on the plateau, including on the way up from Gwalior Gate, the most impressive is the upper set on the western approach, between Urvai Gate and the inner fort walls. Mostly cut into the cliﬀ face in the mid-15th century, they represent nude figures of tirthankars (the 24 great Jain teachers). They were defaced by Babur’s Muslim army in 1527 but have been more recently repaired. There are more than 30 images, including a splendid 17m-high standing sculpture of the first tirthankar, Adinath. Teli ka Mandir TEMPLE Used as a drinks factory and coﬀee shop by the British after the First War of Independence (Indian Uprising) of 1857, this 30mhigh, 8th-century temple is the oldest monument in the compound.

NORTHERN ADESH S I G H T SGWA MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH S I G HLTI SO R

æ Sights 1 Archway ...............................................A5 2 Badalgarh Gate.................................... B1 3 Chatarbhuj Mandir .............................. B1 4 Ganesh Gate ........................................ B1 Gujari Mahal ................................(see 13) 5 Gwalior Gate (Alamgiri Gate) ............. B1 6 Hathiya Paur Gate (Elephant Gate).................................................. B1 Hindu Temple .............................. (see 4) 7 Jai Vilas Palace ....................................B5 Kabutar Khana............................. (see 4) 8 Lower Western Rock Sculptures.........................................A3 9 Man Singh Palace ................................ B1 10 Museum ............................................... B1 11 Sasbahu Temples................................B2 Scindia Museum ...........................(see 7) 12 Sikh Gurdwara .....................................A3 13 State Archaeological Museum ........... B1 14 Teli ka Mandir.......................................A3 15 Tomb of Tansen................................... C1 16 Upper Western Rock Sculptures.........................................A2

from the east well worth the climb. Don’t, however, miss the rock sculptures part of the way down the western side. The upper set in particular are far more impressive than those on the eastern approach and make for a rewarding detour during your stroll around the fort. A ticket counter (%2480011; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk) near Man Singh Palace sells tickets for the monuments, and another ticket (₹5) for a small, adjacent museum. A sound-and-light show (Indian/foreigner

616

The modern, gold-topped gurdwara (Sikh Temple) nearby is dedicated to Sikh hero Guru Har Gobind, who was imprisoned in Man Singh Palace from 1617 to 1619. Sasbahu Temples TEMPLE The Mayan-like Sasbahu, or Mother-in-Law and Daughter-in-Law Temples, date from the 9th to 11th centuries. Mother-in-Law, dedicated to Vishnu, has four gigantic pillars supporting its heavy roof, layered with carvings. The smaller Daughter-in-Law, dedicated to Shiva, is also stacked with sculptures.

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH N O R T H E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

Eastern Entrance FORT From the east entrance a series of gates punctuates the worn steps of the path leading up to the fort. At the bottom, the first gate you pass through is Gwalior Gate (Alamgiri Gate), which dates from 1660. The second, Bansur (Archer’s Gate), has disappeared, so the next is Badalgarh, named after Badal Singh, Man Singh’s uncle. Further up is Ganesh Gate, built in the 15th century. Nearby is Kabutar Khana, a small pigeon house, and a small four-pillared Hindu temple to the hermit Gwalipa, after whom fort and town are named. You’ll pass a 9th-century Vishnu shrine known as Chatarbhuj Mandir (Temple of the Four-Armed) before reaching the fifth gate, Hathiya Paur (Elephant Gate), now the entrance to the palace (as the sixth gate, Hawa Gate, no longer exists). State Archaeological Museum MUSEUM This museum (Indian/foreigner ₹10/100, camera/video ₹50/200; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) is within Gujari Mahal, just through Gwalior Gate at the base of the fort. Built in the 15th century by Man Singh for his favourite rani (wife), the palace is now rather deteriorated. There’s a large collection of Hindu and Jain sculptures, including the famed Salabhanjika (an exceptionally carved female figure) plus copies of Bagh Caves frescoes. Jai Vilas Palace & Scindia Museum PALACE (Indian/foreigner ₹40/230, camera/video ₹50/ 100; h10am-5.30pm Thu-Tue) This museum

occupies some 35 rooms of the Scindias’ opulent Jai Vilas Palace, built by Maharaja Jayajirao in 1874 using prisoners from the fort. The convicts were rewarded with the 12-year job of weaving the hall carpet, one of the largest in Asia.

The gold paint around the durbar (royal court) hall weighs half a tonne. Supposedly, eight elephants were suspended from its ceiling to check it could cope with two 12.5m-high, 3.5-tonne chandeliers with 250 lightbulbs, said to be the largest pair in the world. Bizarre items fill the rooms: Belgian-cut glass furniture, stuﬀed tigers and a ladiesonly swimming pool with its own boat. The cavernous dining room displays the pièce de résistance, a model railway with a silver train that carried after-dinner brandy and cigars around the table. Note: the gates to the north and south are locked so you have to enter the palace from the west. Tomb of Tansen

HISTORIC BUILDING

Tucked away in the winding lanes of the Old Town, and in the same compound as the resplendent tomb of Mohammed Gaus, is the smaller, simpler tomb of Tansen, a singer much admired by Akbar and held to be the father of Hindustani classical music. Chewing the leaves from the tamarind tree here supposedly enriches your voice. Free performances are staged during the fourday Tansen Music Festival in November/ December.

T Tours UP Tourism’s cute little yellow bus, Gwalior Darshan, takes passengers on a full-day city tour (per person ₹75; h10.30am-6pm), taking in all the main sights, including Gwalior Fort and Jai Vilas Palace. Enquire at the tourist oﬃce at Tansen Residency.

4 Sleeping

Hotel Gwalior Regency HOTEL $$ (%2340670; Link Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1975/2725; aiW) None of the string of

midrange hotels on Mandhav Rao Scindia Marg are as good value as this super-friendly place near the train station. Standard rooms are fine, albeit a little old fashioned (and musty before the AC kicks in), but if you pay an extra ₹1000 for ‘grande deluxe’ you’ll find rooms with modern furnishings (wall-mounted wide-screen TV, glass-walled shower room, free wi-fi) and a luxurious feel. Usha Kiran Palace HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%2444000; www.tajhotels.com; Jayendraganj; r from ₹10,000; ais) Live like royalty in this

120-year-old building, which once accom-

617

SHIVPURI’S MARBLE CENOTAPHS A possible day trip from Gwalior is to the old Scindia summer capital of Shivpuri. This rarely visited town is the site of the Scindia family’s chhatris (cenotaphs), appropriately grand memorials to maharajas and maharanis gone by. Two kilometres’ walk from the bus stand (autorickshaw ₹15), and set in formal gardens, the chhatris (admission ₹40, camera/video ₹10/40; h8am-noon & 3-8pm) are magnificent walk-in marble structures with Mughal-style pavilions and sikharas (Hindu temple-spires) facing each other across a pool with a criss-cross of walkways. The chhatri to Madhorao Scindia, built between 1926 and 1932, is exquisitely inlaid with intricate pietra dura (marble inlay work). Buses leave regularly from the Shivpuri bus stand for Gwalior (₹80, 2½ hours) and Jhansi (₹70, three hours), meaning you don’t have to double-back on yourself to visit.

Hotel DM HOTEL $ (%2342083; Link Rd; s/d from ₹400/500) Rooms

are small, but in much better condition than the other budget options around town. All have clean bathrooms and a TV locked securely inside a special cabinet (when was the last time you stole a hotel TV?). Some come with a cute little wooden bench outside.

Hotel Mayur

HOTEL $

(%2325559; Padav; s/d from ₹280/450, with AC from ₹620; a) Spacious, but slightly grubby

rooms set around a courtyard, extending up three floors. Twenty-four-hour checkout.

Hotel Chandralok

HOTEL $

(%2341425; s/d from ₹350/400) The only

hotel on Station Rd that accepts foreigners. Rooms are shabby, but prices are agreeable.

Tansen Residency

HOTEL $$

(%4056789; r ₹1690) MP Tourism hotel with

neat and tidy rooms, but little character. Has a bar and a restaurant.

5 Eating & Drinking

Indian Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN $ (Station Rd; mains ₹40-110; h7.30am-11pm) An-

other popular oﬀering from the fab Indian Coﬀee House, this branch does all the usual

breakfast favourites – real coﬀee, dosa (large savoury crepes), scrambled eggs – but also has a proper main-course menu, including an excellent thali (all-you-can-eat meal; ₹85), in a separate 1st-floor section. Zayka MULITCUISINE $ (MLB Rd; mains ₹40-110; h11am-11pm) This

trendy, cafe-style restaurant with glass tabletops and brightly painted walls pulls in young local punters with its foreign menu – noodles, burgers, pizza – but the Indian veg dishes are still very good. Try the stuﬀed capsicum.

Silver Saloon INDIAN $$$ (%2444000; Usha Kiran Palace, Jayendraganj; mains ₹350-750; h7am-11am, 12.30-3pm & 7.3010.30pm) Mouth-watering Indian, Nepali

and Continental dishes are served either in the tangerine-and-magenta restaurant or the palm-shaded courtyard of this exquisite heritage hotel. Bada Bar (%2444000; Usha Kiran Palace, Jayendraganj; beer ₹250; h5-11pm) Take a peek inside

BAR

Gwalior’s most luxurious hotel, order a beer or a glass of French wine, then rack up for a frame or two on the 120-year-old snooker table.

Shopping

Arihant Emporium HANDICRAFTS (Moti Mahal Rd; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Near

Jai Vilas Palace, this place has all sorts of handicrafts but specialises in a Gwalior favourite – silver boxes (₹500) decorated with enamel images to imitate the tile work on Man Singh Palace.

NORTHERN ADESH E AT I N GGWA RIIGO NR& KID NR GI N K I N G MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH E&ATDI LN

modated King George V. Every room has its own unique touches – one a mosaic-tiled bathtub, another a silk-cushioned lounging area – while the luxury villas come with their own private pool! The gorgeous main pool (with separate kids pool) can be used by nonguests (₹500) as can the excellent Jiva Spa (massage treatments from ₹1400; h8am-8pm), the Silver Saloon restaurant and Bada Bar. Online deals available for as little as ₹5600.

618

HANDY TRAINS FROM GWALIOR DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

DEPARTURE

Agra

12617 Mangala Ldweep

140/265/336

8.15am

Bhopal

12920 Malwa Express

198/502/674

6½

12.47am

Delhi

12625 Kerala Express

178/443/593

8.30am

Indore

12920 Malwa Express

282/737/999

12.47am

Jhansi*

12002/22002 BhopalSHTABDI

240/470

9.39am

Fares are sleeper/3AC/2AC; *chair/1AC only

8 Information

8 Getting Around

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH N O R T H E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

Fun Stop Cyber Zone (MLB Rd; per hr ₹30; h9am-10pm) Internet access and webcams for Skype use. MP Tourism Tansen Residency (%2340370; 6A Gandhi Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Train station (% 4040777; h9am-7.30pm) Organises daily Gwalior bus tour. Very helpful. Post office (Station Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1.30pm Sat) State Bank of India (%2336291; Bada Chowk; h10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pm Sat) Cashes travellers cheques; also has an ATM in the train station foyer.

Cycle-rickshaws (per trip ₹10 to ₹20) and autorickshaws (₹20 to ₹40) are plentiful. Brutishlooking tempos (large autorickshaws; ₹2 to ₹6) chug along fixed routes. An auto to the airport will cost ₹100 to ₹150.

8 Getting There & Away

Orchha

Air Air India (%2376872; MLB Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) has flights to Delhi (from ₹4500, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday). Bus Services from the bus stand on Link Rd include: AGRA ₹85, 3½ hours, frequent, 4.30am to 9pm JAIPUR seat/sleeper ₹250/330, 10 hours, four daily, 6.30am, 7.15am, 6.30pm, 7.30pm JHANSI ₹67, three hours, frequent, day and night. KHAJURAHO ₹190, seven hours, one daily, 8.30am SHIVPURI ₹80, 2½ hours, frequent, 5am to 10pm Train More than 20 daily trains go to Agra’s Cantonment station and to Jhansi for Orchha or Khajuraho, while more than 10 go to Delhi and Bhopal. See the boxed text (p618) for details.

Jhansi This nondescript town, commonly used as a gateway to Orchha, Khajuraho and Gwalior, is in fact in Uttar Pradesh. See p382 for details.

% 07680 / POP 8501

This historic village on the banks of the boulder-strewn Betwa River showcases some fabulous architecture similar to that of nearby Khajuraho, albeit without such high-quality artistry. The atmosphere in Orchha, though, is far more laid-back and hassle-free, which makes for a relaxing stay. There are great homestay options as well as opportunities to enjoy the surrounding countryside, with walking, cycling, swimming and rafting all on the agenda. History

Orchha was the capital of the Bundela rajas from the 16th century to 1783, when they decamped to nearby Tikamgarh. Bir Singh Deo ruled from Orchha from 1605 to 1627 and built Jhansi fort. A favourite of Mughal prince Salim, Bir Singh feuded with Salim’s father, Emperor Akbar, who all but ruined his kingdom.

In 1605 Prince Salim became Emperor Jehangir, making Bir Singh a powerful figure. The Jehangir Mahal was built for the emperor’s state visit the following year.

1 Sights

The ticket for Orchha’s sites (Indian/foreigner ₹10/250, camera/video ₹25/200) covers seven

monuments – Jehangir Mahal, Raj Mahal, Raj Praveen Mahal, the camel stables, the chhatris, Chaturbhuj Temple and Lakshmi Narayan Temple – and is only for sale at the ticket office (h8am-6pm). You can walk around the palace grounds for free. Palaces

HISTORIC SITE

Temples

HINDU TEMPLE

Chhatris

HISTORIC SITE

Orchha’s impressive 16th-century temples still receive thousands of Hindu pilgrims. At the centre of a lively square is the pink- and gold-domed Ram Raja Temple (h8am-noon & 8-10pm), the only temple where Rama is worshipped as a king. Built as a palace for Madhukar Shah’s wife, it became a temple when an image of Rama, temporarily installed by the rani, proved impossible to move. Ram Raja is overlooked by the spectacular towers of Chaturbhuj Temple, an immensely solid building on a cruciform plan. Buy a cheap torch from the bazaar and climb the internal stairs to the roof where, from among the mossy spires and domes, you get the best view in town. Vultures also perch on the rooftops here. Lakshmi Narayan Temple, on the road out to Ganj village, has fine rooftop views and well-preserved murals on the ceilings of its domed towers. Cenotaphs to Orchha’s rulers, including Bir Singh Deo, the serene chhatris rise from the rubble and undergrowth about a kilometre south of the village. They’re best seen at dusk, when the birds reel above the children splashing at the river ghats.

FSaaket Museum

MUSEUM

(h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) More of an art gal-

lery than a museum, the Saaket Museum showcases some beautiful folk paintings from diﬀerent states of India. The Madhubani paintings from Bihar are particularly striking.

Activities

Nature Trails

WALKING

Some paths in the vast palace grounds lead down to the river through gates in the wall. Another option is the 12km-long nature trail in Orchha Nature Reserve, a 44-sq-km island surrounded by the Betwa and Jamni Rivers. You need to buy a ticket (Indian/foreigner ₹20/150) from the ticket oﬃce (open 8am to 6pm) to enter the reserve, then you are free to explore, although guides (₹200) are available. The nature trail is well marked and the roads are signposted, making this

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NORTHERN ADESH S I G H T SO MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH S IRGCHHTHSA

Crossing the granite bridge from the village centre over the often dry river channel brings you to a fortified complex dominated by two wonderfully imposing 17th-century palaces – Jehangir Mahal and Raj Mahal. Langur monkeys play by the ruins here, while vultures perch on the rooftops. If you look closely at the top of some buildings, you can still see some of the few remaining turquoise-coloured tiles that once decorated the palaces here. Jehangir Mahal, an assault course of steep staircases and precipitous walkways, represents a zenith of medieval Islamic architecture. There’s a small archaeological museum on the ground floor and behind the palace sturdy camel stables overlook a green landscape dotted with monuments. In the nearby Raj Mahal, the caretaker will open the painted rooms where Rama, Krishna and Orchha royalty wrestle, hunt, fight and dance across the walls and ceilings. Downhill from the palace compound are the smaller Raj Praveen Mahal, a pavilion and formal Mughal garden, and Khana Hammam (Turkish Bath), with some fine vaulted ceilings. On the other side of the village, Palki Mahal was the palace of Dinman Hardol (the son of Bir Singh Deo), who committed suicide to ‘prove his innocence’ over an affair with his brother’s wife. His memorial, two cloth-covered stone beds in a pavilion, is in the adjacent Phool Bagh, a traditional charbagh (formal Persian garden, divided into quarters). Prince Hardol is venerated as a hero in Bundelkhand culture. Women sing songs about him, tie threads onto the jali (carved marble lattice screen) of his memo-

rial and walk around it five times, clockwise, to make wishes they hope he’ll grant.

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MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH N O R T H E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

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Orchha Nature Reserve

a nice place to cycle. Wildlife you’re likely to see on the trail includes monkeys, deer, monitor lizards and peacocks. For a chance to spot one of four types of turtles found here, cycle to Ret Ghat, 14km south of the ticket oﬃce, on the Jamni River.

Rafting RAFTING River-rafting (per raft per 1½/3hr ₹1200/2500)

Massage & Yoga

Swimming

AYURVEDA

Amar Mahal (p621) and Orchha Resort (%252222; www.orchharesort.com) both oﬀer good-quality ayurvedic massage treatments (from ₹500; 8.30am to 8.30pm) and hold yoga classes (₹500). Amar Mahal is the better but pricier of the two.

trips start from the boat club, but tickets must be bought through MP Tourism at Hotel Sheesh Mahal or Betwa Retreat. Rafts take one to six people. SWIMMING

Locals swim in the Betwa River every day. A popular spot is in front of the boat club by the bridge that leads into the Orchha Nature Reserve. Another option is the boulder-strewn section beside Bundelkhand Riverside hotel. Follow the track

Orchha

ÿ Sleeping 19 Amar Mahal..........................................B4 20 Betwa Retreat......................................B5 21 Bhandari Guesthouse .........................B4 22 Bundelkhand Riverside ....................... D1 23 Fort View Guest House .......................C2 24 Hotel Sheesh Mahal ............................C3 25 Hotel Shri Mahant................................A2 26 Shri Mahant Guest House...................B3 ú Eating 27 Betwa Tarang.......................................B3 28 Didi's Cafe ............................................C2 Hotel Sheesh Mahal .................. (see 24) 29 Ram Raja ..............................................C3 Turquoise Diner ......................... (see 22) Information MP Tourism................................ (see 20) MP Tourism................................ (see 24) Ticket Office................................(see 12) Transport 30 Raju Bikes.............................................A2

from Jhansi Rd to the hotel but instead of turning left into the hotel itself, carry on down to the river. Nonguests can use the swimming pools at the following hotels: Bundelkhand Riverside (₹150), Betwa Retreat (₹150), Amar Mahal (₹200) and Orchha Resort (₹300).

oHotel Sheesh Mahal

HERITAGE HOTEL $$

621

(%252624; smorchha@mptourism.com; Jehangir Mahal; r ₹1690, ste ₹3990-4990; a) Literally pa-

latial, this hotel is actually located in a wing of Jehangir Mahal. As you’d expect, the surrounding architecture is stunning – arches, columns, lattice windows, decorative wooden door frames – but the rooms themselves are gorgeous too, and each is unique, some with regal touches such as throne-like toilets. Even if you don’t stay here, pretend you want to and have a look around. Bundelkhand Riverside HOTEL $$$ (%252612; www.bundelkhandriverside.com; s/d from ₹3000/3600; as) The granddaddy of

Orchha hotels is owned by the grandson of Orchha’s last king, Vir Singh, who sold his palaces to the state after India’s Independence. Some of the maharaja’s personal art collection is displayed in the corridors. Exquisite rooms overlook either the river or the hotel’s beautiful gardens, which contain some 16th-century monuments as well as a small swimming pool. Shri Mahant Guest House HOTEL $ (%252715; r from ₹200, with AC from ₹450; a)

Overlooking the souvenir market at the entrance to Ram Raja Temple and overlooked itself by the wonderful Chaturbhuj Temple, this excellent budget choice has a superb location, clean rooms – some with TV, others with balconies – and friendly staﬀ. If rooms are full, you’ll be directed to its sister property, Hotel Shri Mahant (%252341; Lakshmi Narayan Temple Rd; r from ₹400; a), a few hundred metres west of town. Fort View Guest House HOTEL $ (%252701; Jhansi Rd; r ₹250-550, with AC from ₹850; a) Smart, simple rooms oﬀ a cute

courtyard come with marble floors and clean bathrooms with 24-hour hot water. The three AC rooms have huge windows with palace views, while one has a marble bed! Not to be confused with nearby New Fort Guest House, which isn’t such good value. Betwa Retreat HOTEL $$ (%252618; www.mptourism.com; tents ₹1290, cottages ₹1690, ste ₹4990; as) Set in peaceful

shaded gardens with a small swimming pool this MP Tourism property, overlooking the river and with views of the chhatris, makes an excellent family choice. Rooms come in

NORTHERN ADESH SLEEPIN MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH S LG O RECEHPHI N AG

æ Sights 1 Boat Club..............................................B5 2 Camel Stables......................................C3 3 Chaturbhuj Temple .............................B3 4 Chhatris................................................B5 5 Jehangir Mahal ....................................C3 6 Khana Hammam..................................D3 7 Lookout ................................................C4 8 Orchha Nature Reserve Ticket Office .................................................B5 9 Orchha Resort......................................B5 10 Palki Mahal ...........................................B2 11 Phool Bagh...........................................B2 12 Raj Mahal..............................................C3 13 Raj Praveen Mahal...............................C3 14 Ram Raja Temple ................................B3 15 Ruins.....................................................C4 16 Ruins.....................................................D4 17 Saaket Museum...................................C4 18 Sawan Bhado Pillars............................B2

4 Sleeping

622

MUD-HUT HOMESTAYS IN THE VILLAGE OF GANJ

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH N O R T H E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

Thanks to Friends of Orchha (%9098353799; www.orchha.org; s/d ₹350/450, extra bed ₹100, breakfast/dinner ₹30/50), a nonprofit organisation run by Dutchman Louk Vreeswijk and his Indian wife, Asha D’Souza, travellers now have the opportunity to stay with local villagers as part of an excellent homestay program. This is a wonderful chance to experience genuine Indian village life, so don’t expect anything but the most basic of facilities. Friends of Orchha helped provide loans for some renovations, including installing ecofriendly dry toilets in the yards of each homestay house, but you will still be staying in mud huts and eating the simple veg dishes that your host family eats every day. Staying for a single night is discouraged for logistical reasons. If you really want to stay one night only, you can, but room rates will be slightly higher. In any case, the slow pace of life in Ganj is something that should be savoured. At the time of research there were only five family homes set up to provide homestays (although more were being planned), so it would still be sensible to book ahead. Friends of Orchha also runs an after-school youth club for village children. Volunteers and, of course, donations are always welcomed. The Friends of Orchha oﬃce is in Ganj Village itself, on the left-hand side of the main road as you are coming from Orchha.

Mughal-style cottages or Swiss tents and have nice touches such as iron bed frames. There’s a restaurant, a bar and an outdoor terrace, and it’s only a five-minute walk from the main drag. Amar Mahal HOTEL $$$ (%252102; www.amarmahal.com; s ₹2400-3400, d ₹3400-4400, ste ₹6000; as) Grand rooms

containing lovely wood-carved furniture, such as four-poster beds, are set around a courtyard with white pillars supporting a covered walkway. There’s an excellent ayurvedic massage and yoga centre (see p620) beside the large, but slightly exposed pool. This doesn’t have the history or character of Bundelkhand Riverside, but it’s probably Orchha’s most luxurious stay.

Bhandari Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%252745; oﬀ Tikamgarh Rd; r ₹400, without bathroom ₹250) Neat and tidy rooms, with large

bathrooms, are set around a simple courtyard. The huge common bathroom is kept very clean. Rooms with a private bathroom also have a TV.

5 Eating & Drinking oDidi’s Cafe

CAFE $$

(Jhansi Rd; mains ₹80; h8am-5pm) Run by De-

nise and Loyal, a very cheerful Northern Irish–Indian couple, this friendly, laid-back cafe is perfect for breakfast or a lunchtime snack. The excellent menu includes fresh coﬀee, porridge, omelettes, pasta and salads.

If that all sounds too healthy for you, plump instead for their simply delicious homemade banoﬃ pie. Betwa Tarang INDIAN $ (Jehangir Mahal Rd; mains ₹45-130; h7.30am10pm) This place does the best quality Indian

food out of any of Orchha’s budget restaurants – the thalis (₹70 to ₹130) are particularly good. It also has the attraction of a rooftop terrace where you can sit and overlook the market, with the old palace to your right and Chaturbhuj Temple to your left.

Turquoise Diner INDIAN $$$ (%252612; Bundelkhand Riverside; mains ₹160300, h7-10am, 12.30-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) Fab-

ulous green- and blue-tiled AC restaurant inside the sumptuous grounds of this topnotch hotel knocks out arguably the best Indian food in Orchha. There’s a smattering of Continental options too, but stick to the local dishes and you won’t leave disappointed. Ram Raja INDIAN (Jehangir Mahal Rd; mains ₹30-60; h7.30am11pm) A friendly, family-run streetside

Hotel Sheesh Mahal INDIAN (Jehangir Mahal; mains ₹60-200; h7.30am10.30pm) Indian tandoori, Chinese and

restaurant offering tasty vegetarian fare under the shade of a large tree.

Continental are all on the menu, but it’s the historic surroundings that are the attraction here (plus the beer).

8 Information

Internet cafes (₹20 to ₹30) are everywhere. Canara Bank (%252689; Jhansi Rd; h10.30am-2.30pm & 3-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am1pm Sat) Changes travellers cheques and cash. There’s an ATM by the bus stand. MP Tourism (%252624; Hotel Sheesh Mahal or Betwa Retreat; h7am-10pm)

8 Getting There & Around

Dangers & Annoyances

Most of the hassle tourists experience comes in the form of seemingly endless demands for money, pens and photo fees, often from children. Also be wary of commission-driven operations such as guides oﬀering to take you to a local school or charity. Many yogis and massage therapists are not qualified. That doesn’t mean they’re not good, but it’s something to be aware of.

1 Sights Temples

Khajuraho % 07686 / POP 19,286

The erotic carvings that swathe Khajuraho’s three groups of World Heritage–listed temples are among the finest temple art in the world. The Western Group of temples, in particular, contains some stunning artwork. See our special colour illustration (p626) for all the details. Many travellers complain about the tiring persistence of touts here, preferring the more laid-back charms of nearby Orchha instead. Their complaints are well founded, but be aware that missing out on Khajuraho means missing out on some of the most beautiful temples in India. Come February/March, the Western Group of temples becomes the stage for the week-long Festival of Dance (see p611).

HINDU/JAIN

The temples are superb examples of IndoAryan architecture, but it’s their liberally embellished carvings that have made Khajuraho famous. Around the outsides of the temples are bands of exceedingly artistic stonework showing a storyboard of life a millennium ago – gods, goddesses, warriors, musicians and real and mythological animals. Two elements appear repeatedly – women and sex. While the mithuna (pairs of men and women, usually depicted in erotic poses) are certainly eye-catching, the erotic content should not distract from the great skill underlying the sculptures. Sensuous, posturing surasundaris (heavenly nymphs), apsaras (dancing surasundaris) and nayikas (mortal surasundaris) have been carved with a half-twist and slight sideways lean that make the playful figures dance and swirl out from the flat stone. A classic example is the

623

NORTHERN ADESH 8 MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH 8 HAJURAHO K

Tempos (large shared autorickshaws; ₹10) go between Jhansi bus stand and Orchha all day. Private autorickshaws charge about ₹150. Coming from Khajuraho, you can ask the bus driver to drop you oﬀ at the Orchha turn-oﬀ on the National Hwy, where you should be able to wave down a vehicle to take you to Orchha. Annoyingly, there are no buses between Orchha and Khajuraho. You need to go to Jhansi first then catch a bus (₹120, six hours, 6am to 2pm) from there as Jhansi–Khajuraho buses tend not to stop for you if you wait on the side of the highway. Taxis to Khajuraho cost at least ₹2000. You can now also catch a slow passenger train to Khajuraho from Orchha’s tiny train station, which is on the Jhansi Rd, about 3km from the village centre. The train leaves daily at 7.25am and takes five hours (if it’s on time). It’s 2ndclass seats only so you can’t reserve tickets. Just turn up at the station and buy a ‘general’ ticket (₹30). The return train leaves Khajuraho at 12.30pm. Raju Bikes (Lakshmi Narayan Temple Rd; h7am-6pm) hires out rickety bicycles at great rates (per hour/day ₹5/40).

History

Legend has it that Khajuraho was founded by Chardravarman, the son of the moon god Chandra, who descended and saw a beautiful maiden as she bathed in a stream. Historians tell us that the Chandela dynasty built the temples, many of which originally rose from a lake. Most of the 85 temples – of which 25 now remain – were built during a century-long burst of creative genius from AD 950 to 1050 and remained active long after the Chandelas moved their capital to Mahoba. Khajuraho’s isolation may well have helped preserve it from the desecration Muslim invaders inflicted on ‘idolatrous’ temples elsewhere, but perhaps for the same reason the area was slowly abandoned and eventually fell into ruin, with the jungle taking over. The wider world remained largely ignorant until British oﬃcer TS Burt was apparently guided to the ruins by his palanquin bearers in 1838.

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washerwoman with a wet sari clinging to her body – an image imbued with as much eroticism as any of the couples, threesomes or foursomes. Walk around the temples with your right shoulder facing the building – the right side is considered divine. Western Group – inside the fenced enclosure TEMPLE Khajuraho’s most striking and best-preserved temples are those within the fencedoﬀ section of the Western Group (Indian/ foreigner ₹10/250, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk), and are the only temples here you have to pay to see. An Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) guidebook to Khajuraho (₹99) and a 90-minute audio guide (₹50) are available at the ticket oﬃce. Varaha, dedicated to Vishnu’s boar incarnation, and the locked Lakshmi are two small shrines facing the large Lakshmana

# 21 æ

Temple. Inside Varaha is a wonderful, 1.5mhigh sandstone boar, dating from AD 900 and meticulously carved with a pantheon of gods. The large Lakshmana Temple took 20 years to build and was completed in about AD 954 during the reign of Dhanga according to an inscribed slab in the mandapa (pillared pavilion in front of a temple). It’s arguably the best preserved of all Khajuraho temples. You’ll see carvings of battalions of soldiers here – the Chandelas were generally at war when they weren’t inventing new sexual positions. On the south side is a highly gymnastic orgy, including one gentleman proving that a horse can be a man’s best friend, while a shocked figure peeks out from behind her hands. More sensuous figures intertwine between the elephants in the frieze ringing the basement, while some superb carvings can be found around the garbhagriha (inner sanctum). Lakshmana

625

Khajuraho

ÿ Sleeping 25 Ayur Arogyam........................................ B2 26 Hotel Harmony ...................................... B3

is dedicated to Vishnu, although it is similar in design to the Shiva temples Vishvanath and Kandariya-Mahadev. The 30.5m-long Kandariya-Mahadev, built between 1025 and 1050, is the largest temple in town and represents the highpoint of Chandelan architecture. It also has the most representations of female beauty and sexual aerobics, all crammed into three central bands. There are 872 acrobatic statues, most nearly 1m high – taller than those at the other temples. One frequently photographed sculpture illustrates the feasibility of the handstand position. The 31m-high sikhara here is, like linga, a phallic Shiva symbol, worshipped by Hindus hoping to seek deliverance from the cycle of reincarnation. It’s decorated with 84 subsidiary spires, which make up a mountain-like rooftop scene reminiscent of the Himalayan abode of the gods.

27 Hotel Narayana Palace ..........................A3 28 Hotel Payal.............................................. B1 29 Hotel Surya .............................................B3 30 Lalit Temple View................................... A1 31 Osaka Guesthouse.................................C3 32 Radisson Jass Hotel...............................A4 33 Yogi Lodge .............................................. D1

ú Eating 34 Agrasen...................................................C3 35 Bella Italia ...............................................B3 36 Blue Sky Restaurant .............................. D1 37 Lassi Corner ...........................................B2 38 Madras Coffee House ............................D2 39 Mediterraneo..........................................B3 40 Paradise Restaurant ..............................B3 41 Raja's Café .............................................. D1 ý Entertainment Kandariya Art & Culture .............. (see 43) 42 Sound-and-Light Show.......................... C1 þ Shopping 43 Kandariya Art & Culture ........................A4 Information 44 Rajesh Medical Store .............................B3 45 Ticket Office ...........................................D2 46 Tourist Interpretation & Facilitation Centre .................................................. A1 47 Tourist Police Booth ..............................D2

Mahadeva, a small ruined temple on the same platform as Kandariya-Mahadev and Devi Jagadamba, is dedicated to Shiva, who is carved on the lintel of its doorway. It houses one of Khajuraho’s finest sculptures – a sardula (mythical beast – part lion, part other animal – possibly human) caressing a 1m-high lion. Devi Jagadamba was originally dedicated to Vishnu, but later to Parvati and then Kali. The carvings include sardulas accompanied by Vishnu, surasundaris, and mithunas frolicking in the third uppermost band. Its three-part design is simpler than Kandariya-Mahadev and Chitragupta. It has more in common with Chitragupta, but is less embellished with carvings so is thought to be a little older. North of Devi Jagadamba, Chitragupta (1000–25) is unique in Khajuraho – and rare among North Indian temples – in being

NORTHERN ADESH S I G H T SK MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH S IHGAHJTUSR A H O

æ Sights 1 Adinath ................................................... D4 2 Adivart Tribal & Folk Art Museum................................................B1 3 Archaeological Museum (Existing Site) ..................................... D2 4 Archaeological Museum (Future Site) ......................................................A1 5 Brahma Temple ..................................... D3 6 Chausath Yogini..................................... A3 7 Chitragupta .............................................C1 8 Devi Jagadamba .....................................C1 9 Ghantai Temple ..................................... D4 10 Hanuman Temple.................................. C3 11 Javari Temple ........................................ D2 12 Kandariya Mahadev................................C1 13 Lakshmana Temple............................... C2 14 Lakshmi.................................................. C2 15 Mahadeva................................................C1 16 Matangesvara ........................................ C2 17 Nandi Shrine ...........................................D1 18 Parsvanath Temple ............................... D4 19 Parvati Temple........................................C1 20 Pratapeswar............................................D1 21 Shanti Nath ............................................ D4 22 Vamana Temple .................................... D2 23 Varaha .................................................... C2 24 Vishvanath Temple.................................D1

DANIEL MCCROHAN

Khajuraho Temples

626

Handstand Position

Perhaps Khajuraho’s most famous carving, this Áexible Áirtation is above you as you stand on the south side of the awesome KandariyaMahadev.

WESTERN GROUP

Sikharas

Despite its many Àne statues, perhaps the most impressive thing about Kandariya-Mahadev is its soaring sikharas (temple rooftops), said to represent the Himalayan abode of the gods.

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH N O R T H E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

The sheer volume of artwork at Khajuraho’s best-preserved temples can be overwhelming. Initiate yourself with this introductory tour, which highlights some of those easy-to-miss details. First, admire the sandstone boar in the Varaha shrine before heading to study towards Lakshmana Temple the south side of the temple’s base, which has some of the raunchiest artwork in Khajuraho: Àrst up, a nine-person orgy; further along, a guy getting very friendly with a horse. Up on the temple platform see a superb dancing Ganesh carved into a niche (south side), before walking to the west side for graceful surasundaris (nymphs): one removing a thorn from her foot; another draped in a wet sari; a third admiring herself in a mirror. Next is Khajuraho’s largest temple, Kandariya-Mahadev . Carvings to look for here include the famous handstand position (south side), but the most impressive thing about this temple is the scale of it, particularly its soaring rooftops. Mahadeva and Devi Jagadamba share the same stone plinth as Kandariya-Mahadev, as do four beautifully carved sardula (part-lion, part-human mythical beasts), each caressing a stone lion – one is at the entrance to Mahadeva; the other three stand alone on the plinth. Walk north from here to Chitragupta , with beautiful carvings hidden on the west side, as well as elephant friezes around the temple’s base (north side). The interior here is particularly impressive. Continue east to Vishvanath Temple for more fabulous carvings before admiring the impressive statue of Vishnu’s bull in the Nandi shrine opposite.

KandariyaMahadev Temple

Devi Jagadamba Temple

Mahadeva Temple

Toilets

Sardula Statue

There are four lion-stroking sardula (part-lion, part-human mythical beasts) on this huge stone plinth, but this one, guarding the entrance to Mahadeva, is our favourite.

Kama Sutra Carvings

DANIEL MCCROHAN

Although commonly referred to as Kama Sutra carvings, Khajuraho’s erotic artwork does not properly illustrate Vatsyayana’s famous sutra. Debate continues as to its signiÀcance: to appease evil spirits or imply rulers here were virile, thus powerful? Interestingly, the erotic carvings are never located close to the temple deity.

DANIEL MCCROHAN

The audio guide only covers two temples but it is very detailed, so is a really useful introduction.

DANIEL MCCROHAN

Listen Up

627

Chitragupta Temple

Just the Ticket

Vishvanath Temple

Parvati Temple

For an extraclose look at Khajuraho artwork, use your ticket for same-day entrance to the small Archaeological Museum nearby.

Nandi Shrine Lakshmana Temple

Pratapeswar Temple

Lakshmi Shrine

Matangesvara Temple

Varaha Shrine

Entrance

Nandi Statue

This massive 2.2m-long statue of Nandi, the bull-vehicle of Shiva, is enshrined in a pavilion facing Vishvanath Temple.

Surasundaris

Beautifully graceful depictions of nymphs are found on a number of Khajuraho temples. And hee despite all the depictions of gymnastic orgies, the wonderfully seductive surasundari draped in a wet sari is arguably the most erotic of all.

Vishnu’s Boar

DANIEL MCCROHAN

This 9th-century statue of Varaha, the boar incarnation of Vishnu, is carved all over with Àgures of Bramanical gods and goddesses. Under Varaha’s foot notice the serpent Seshanaga in a devotional posture, and the feet of a goddess, now missing.

NORTHERN ADESH S I G H T SK MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH S IHGAHJTUSR A H O

Toilets

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MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH N O R T H E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

dedicated to the sun god Surya. While its condition is not as good as the other temples, it has some fine carvings of apsaras and surasundaris, elephant fights and hunting scenes, mithuna and a procession of stonecarriers. In the inner sanctum, Surya drives his seven-horse chariot, while in the central niche on the south facade is an 11-headed statue of Vishnu, representing the god and 10 of his 22 incarnations. Continuing around the enclosure, the closed-up Parvati Temple is on your right, a small temple originally dedicated to Vishnu and now with an image of Gauri riding a godha (iguana). Believed to have been built in 1002, the Vishvanath Temple and Nandi Shrine are reached by steps on the northern and southern side. Elephants flank the southern steps. Vishvanath anticipates Kandariya-Mahadev, with which it shares saptamattrikas (seven mothers) flanked by Ganesh and Virabhandra, and is another superlative example of Chandelan architecture. Its sculptures include sensuous surasundari writing letters, cuddling babies and playing music while languishing more provocatively than at other temples. At the other end of the platform, a 2.2m-long statue of Nandi, Shiva’s bull vehicle, faces the temple. The basement of the 12-pillared shrine is decorated with an elephant frieze that recalls similar work on Lakshmana’s facade. The nearby white temple, Pratapeswar, is a much more recent bricks-and-mortar structure built around 200 years ago. Western Group – outside the fenced enclosure TEMPLE Skirting the southern boundary of the fenced enclosure, Matangesvara is the only temple in the Western Group still in everyday use. It may be the plainest temple here (suggesting an early construction), but inside it sports a polished 2.5m-high lingam (phallic image of Shiva). From its platform you can peer into an open-air storage facility scattered with temple finds but not open to the public. The ruins of Chausath Yogini, beyond Shiv Sagar, date to the late 9th century and are probably the oldest at Khajuraho. Constructed entirely of granite, it’s the only temple not aligned east to west. The temple’s name means 64 – it once had 64 cells for the yoginis (female attendants) of Kali, while the 65th sheltered the goddess herself. It is reputedly India’s oldest yogini temple.

A further 600m west, down a track and across a couple of fields (just ask the locals), is the sandstone-and-granite Lalguan Mahadev Temple (900), a small ruined shrine to Shiva. Eastern Group – Old Village Temples The eastern group includes three Hindu temples scattered around the old village and four Jain temples further south, three of which are in a walled enclosure. The Hanuman Temple, on Basti Rd, contains a 2.5m-tall statue of the Hindu monkey god. It’s little more than a bright orange shrine, but the interest is in the pedestal inscription dating to AD 922, the oldest dateable inscription in Khajuraho. The granite Brahma Temple, with its sandstone sikhara overlooking Narora Sagar, is one of the oldest in Khajuraho (about 900). The four-faced lingam in the sanctum led to it being incorrectly named, but the image of Vishnu above the sanctum doorway reveals its original dedication to Vishnu. Resembling Chaturbhuja Temple in the southern group, Javari Temple (1075–1100) stands just north of the old village. It’s dedicated to Vishnu and is a good example of small-scale Khajuraho architecture for its crocodile-covered entrance and slender sikhara. Vamana Temple (1050–75), 200m further north, is dedicated to the dwarf incarnation of Vishnu. It has quirky touches such as elephants protruding from the walls, but its sikhara is devoid of subsidiary spires and there are few erotic scenes. Its roofed mahamandapa (main hall) is an anomaly in Khajuraho but typical among medieval west Indian temples. Located between the old village and the Jain Enclosure, the small Ghantai Temple, also Jain, is named after the ghanta (chain and bell) decorations on its pillars. It was once similar to nearby Parsvanath, but only its pillared shell remains and it’s normally locked. Eastern Group – Jain Enclosure TEMPLE While not competing in size and erotica with the western-enclosure temples, Parsvanath Temple, the largest of the Jain temples in the walled enclosure, is notable for the exceptional skill and precision of its construction, and for its sculptural beauty. Some of the best-preserved of Khajuraho’s most famous images can be seen here, in-

Southern Group TEMPLE A dirt track runs to the isolated Duladeo Temple, about 1km south of the Jain enclosure. This is the youngest temple, dating to 1100–1150. Its relatively wooden, repetitious sculptures, such as those of Shiva, suggest that Khajuraho’s temple builders had passed their artistic peak by this point, although they had certainly lost none of their zeal for eroticism. Anticipating Duladeo and its flaws, the ruined Chaturbhuja Temple (c 1100) has a fine 2.7m-high, four-armed statue of Vishnu in the sanctum. It is Khajuraho’s only developed temple without erotic sculptures. Just before Chaturbhuja there’s a signed track leading to Bijamandala Temple. This is the excavated mound of an 11th-century temple, dedicated to Shiva (judging by the white marble lingam at the apex of the mound). Although there are some exquisitely carved figures, unfinished carvings were also excavated, suggesting that what would have been Khajuraho’s largest temple was abandoned as resources flagged. Museums MUSEUM, ART GALLERY The Archaeological Museum (Main Rd; admission ₹10, free with same-day Western Group ticket; h8am-5pm), announced by a wonder-

ful 11th-century statue of Ganesh (dancing sensuously for an elephant-headed deity), has a small but well-presented collection of sculptures from around Khajuraho. This is a good opportunity to get up close to some

very well-preserved carvings. At the time of research, there were plans to move this museum to a larger site north of the Western Group, but don’t hold your breath; they’ve been telling us that since 2006. The museum-cum-art gallery, Adivart

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Tribal & Folk Art Museum (Chandela Cultural Centre, Link Rd No 1; Indian/foreigner ₹10/50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), makes a colourful

change from the temples. It gives a taste of the vibrant tribal culture of both Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh through pointillist Bhili paintings, terracotta Jhoomar sculptures, masks, statues and bamboo flutes. Original signed paintings are for sale from around ₹8000. Prints can be bought from around ₹200.

Old Village

AREA

If you can put up with the persistent requests from local children for pens and money, then a stroll or cycle around the dusty narrow streets of the old village can be very rewarding. Homes here are whitewashed or painted in colourful pastels and the lanes are dotted with small shrines, old wells and water pumps.

Activities

Massage

AYURVEDA

Many budget hotels offer cheap ayurvedic massage treatments of varying levels of authenticity. Top-end hotels offer more luxurious versions. For the real deal, though, head to Ayur Arogyam (%272572; treatment ₹14002100; h24hr). The lovely Keralan couple who run this small place from their home also have two simple doubles rooms to rent (₹100). Barbers in Gole Market offer simple but rejuvenating head massages for ₹20. Yoga

YOGA

Apart from the hotels oﬀering yoga, the inspiring Yogi Sudarshan Dwiveda

(%9993284940; Vidhya Colony; fee by donation; h6am) runs sessions at his home. Accommo-

dation can be arranged. There is no English sign. If you have trouble contacting him, go through Rajesh Medical Store (h9am-9pm) in Gole Market. Swimming

SWIMMING

Nonguests can use the pools at Hotel Payal (₹200) and Radisson Jass Hotel (₹300).

NORTHERN ADESH AC T I V I TK IHETA SIJVUI T MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH AC R IAEHSO

cluding the woman removing a thorn from her foot and another applying eye make-up, both on the south side. Although the temple was originally dedicated to Adinath, a jetblack image of Parsvanath was substituted about a century ago. Both an inscription on the mahamandapa doorway and its similarities with the slightly simpler Lakshmana Temple date it to 950–70. The adjacent, smaller Adinath has been partially restored over the centuries. With fine carvings on its three bands of sculptures it’s similar to Khajuraho’s Hindu temples, particularly Vamana. Only the striking black image in the inner sanctum triggers a Jain reminder. Shanti Nath, built about a century ago, houses components from older temples, including a 4.5m-high Adinath statue with a plastered-over inscription on the pedestal dating to about 1027.

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4 Sleeping Hefty discounts (20% to 50%) are available out of season (April to September), although it’s worth bargaining at any time of year. Hotel Surya HOTEL $ (%274144; www.hotelsuryakhajuraho.com; Jain Temples Rd; r from ₹300, with AC from ₹700; ai)

There’s a huge range of decent-value rooms in this sprawling, well-run hotel with whitewashed corridors, marble staircases and a lovely courtyard garden out the back. Some rooms have TV. Some have balconies. There’s yoga and massage, and the atmosphere is generally laid-back. Hotel Harmony HOTEL $$ (%274135; Jain Temples Rd; r ₹500, with AC ₹1000; aiW) Cozy, well-equipped rooms oﬀ mar-

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH N O R T H E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

ble corridors are tastefully decorated with green and brown furnishings and come with cable TV. Yoga and massage available. Wi-fi costs ₹40.

Osaka Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%272839; oﬀ Basti Rd; r ₹250-400, with AC ₹600; a) Spacious rooms here are pretty basic, but

have a homey feel to them and the owner is very welcoming. Osaka is set back oﬀ the main drag, down a dirt track, so is quieter than elsewhere, and has some nice temple views from its rooftop. Hotel Narayana Palace HOTEL $$ (%272832; govindgautam@rediﬀmail.com; Jhansi Rd; s ₹450-1000, d ₹550-1100; a) This kitsch-

tastic hotel with its orange-and-white facade will dazzle you with the pinks, purples, reds and greens of its interior paintwork, decor and ornaments. Rooms are large with shiny tiled floors and clean bathrooms.

Yogi Lodge GUESTHOUSE $ (%274158; yogi_sharm@yahoo.com; r ₹150-300)

Rooms are basic – some with tap-andbucket showers – but small courtyards, narrow corridors and the cute stone tables in the rooftop restaurant give this place character.

Radisson Jass Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%272777; www.radisson.com; Bypass Rd; s/d from ₹5600/6400; aiWs) A marble spiral stair-

case winds its way up from the fountain in the lobby to modern, stylish 1st-floor rooms that are very smart, if a little small. There’s a comfortable bar area (with pool table), a restaurant, tennis and badminton courts, and

a fine swimming pool. Best of all, though, is the service, which we found to be exemplary. Wi-fi is free. Lalit Temple View HOTEL $$$ (%272111; www.thelalit.com; Main Rd; s/d from ₹14,000/15,000; aiWs) Sweeps aside all

other five-star pretenders with supreme luxury, impeccable service and astonishingly high prices. Rooms are immaculate with large plasma-screen TV, wood-carved furniture and tasteful artwork. Guests who don’t have temple-view rooms can see the Western Group from the delightful lotusshaped pool. Hotel Payal HOTEL $$ (%274076; payal@mptourism.com; Link Rd No 1; r ₹890, with AC ₹1490; as) This MP Tourism

hotel has smart rooms with dark-wood furniture set around very nice gardens with an inviting swimming pool out the back. It also rents bikes (₹50 per day).

Ayur Arogyam GUESTHOUSE $ (%272572; r ₹100) There are two small basic

rooms beside the treatment rooms at this simple ayurvedic massage lodge (see p629). Both have private bathrooms with squat toilets.

5 Eating oRaja’s Café

MULTICUISINE $$

(Main Rd; mains ₹60-200; h8am-10pm) Raja’s

has been on top of its game for more than 30 years, and recently added a coﬀee stall (coffee from ₹50) so that punters can now enjoy quality fresh coﬀee as well as superb food. The central location is great, as is the restaurant design, with a delightful wroughtiron spiral staircase linking a shaded courtyard with a temple-view terrace. But it’s the food that steals the show. The Indian dishes are wonderful – the paneer kofta (unfermented cheese and vegetable balls) and chicken kababi (barbecued chicken pieces marinated in yoghurt), in particular, and there’s good-quality Italian and Chinese too. Mediterraneo ITALIAN $$$ (Jain Temples Rd; mains ₹100-300, pizza ₹240345; h7.30am-10pm) High-quality food,

served on a lovely terrace overlooking the street, includes chicken, salads and organic wholewheat pasta, but it’s all about the pizza here, baked in the wood-fired oven and easily the best in town. Beer and wine is also available.

Madras Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN $ (cnr Main & Jain Temples Rds; mains ₹30-60; h8am9.30pm) Good, honest South Indian fare – dosa,

idli (spongy round fermented rice cakes), uttapam (thick savoury rice pancakes), thali – as well as coﬀee and chai, served in a simple, slimline cafe-restaurant. Ideal for breakfast.

Paradise Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (Main Rd; mains ₹45-250; h8am-11pm; iW) A

recent facelift means this cafe-restaurant now has an open terrace overlooking the lake. The menu has been extended, too, to include Chinese, Continental and pizza as well as the good Indian food that was always on oﬀer. There’s a couple of computer terminals for internet use as well as wi-fi (per hour ₹30, Skype ₹60).

Blue Sky Restaurant MULITCUISINE $$ (Main Rd; mains ₹60-200; h7.30am-10pm) A

Lassi Corner INDIAN (Jain Temples Rd; mains ₹30-40, lassis from ₹10; h10am-10pm) This tarpaulin-covered

Agrasen MULTICUISINE (Jain Temples Rd; mains ₹60-250; h7.30am10.30pm) This smart place with gingham

bamboo shack is a great place for a quick chai break or a lazy lassi. Also does pancakes as well as simple Indian fare such as pakora, paratha, pulao and kofta.

raneo, this pleasant rooftop restaurant overlooks Gole Market and sits beside a couple of huge trees, which host remarkable parrot-squawking contests every day from around 6pm.

3 Entertainment Admittedly, the temples do look magical illuminated with technicolour floodlights,

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Khajuraho is still about 45 minutes too long. Folk dancing can be seen at the comfortable indoor theatre at Kandariya Art & Culture (%274031; Jhansi Rd; admission ₹350;

h7-8pm & 8.45-9.45pm).

Shopping

Kandariya Art & Culture HANDICRAFTS (Jhansi Rd; h9am-9pm) Full-size replicas of

some of Khajuraho’s temple carvings can be bought – if you have a spare ₹100,000. Smaller, more aﬀordable versions, along with textiles, wood carvings and marble inlay, can be found indoors.

8 Information

Internet cafes around town tend to charge ₹40 per hour, ₹50 for Skype. Community health centre (%272498; Link Rd No 2; h9am-1pm & 2-4pm) Limited English, but helpful staff. Post office (%274022; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) State Bank of India (%272373; Main Rd; h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pm Sat) Changes cash and travellers cheques. There are ATMs beside Raja’s Cafe and Paradise Restaurant. Tourist Interpretation & Facilitation Centre (%274051; khajuraho@mptourism.com; Main Rd; h10am-9pm) Leaflets on state-wide tourist destinations. Also has a stand at the airport and train station. Tourist police booth (%272690; Main Rd; h6am-10pm)

8 Getting There & Away

tablecloths and a 1st-floor terrace serves up safe-to-eat salads, pasta and pizza as well as a variety of Indian vegetable and meat dishes. Bella Italia ITALIAN (Jain Temples Rd; mains ₹45-215; h7am10.30pm) A cheaper version of Mediter-

(Indian/foreigner ₹50/300; hEnglish 7.10pm Nov-Feb, 6.30pm Mar-Oct, Hindi 8.20pm Nov-Feb, 7.40pm Mar-Oct) chronicling the history of

Air Jet Airways (%274406; h10am-3.30pm), at the airport, has a daily 1.45pm flight to Delhi (from ₹4200, 3½ hours) via Varanasi (from ₹3800, 40 minutes). Air India (%274035; Jhansi Rd; h10am-4.50pm Mon-Sat), closer to town, has 2pm flights to the same two cities, but only on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Bus If the bus stand ticket oﬃce (h7am-noon & 1-3pm) is closed, the owner of the Madhur coﬀee stand, just opposite, is very helpful and trustworthy. There are three daily buses to Jhansi (₹130, five hours, 5.30am, 7am and 9am), which will all drop you at the junction to Orchha from where

NORTHERN ADESH E N T E R TA MADHYA PRMADHYA ADESH & PR CHHAT TISGARH EN K HI TN AEM JR UETA RNATIHNOM E N T

rickety wooden platform, three storeys up, leads out to the most unusual place to eat in Khajuraho – a one-table tree house with an unrivalled view of the western temples. The view from the ordinary, terraced balcony is good too, while the menu is the usual Indian and Chinese, plus Western breakfasts. The grumpy service is perhaps understandable. Would you like to serve food to customers in a tree?

but the one-hour sound-and-light show

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you can wave down a shared autorickshaw (₹10) to Orchha. Regular buses run to Madla (for Panna National Park; ₹25, one hour, 8am to 7pm), where you can change for Satna (₹65, three hours). There are two direct buses to Satna (₹110, four hours, 2pm and 3pm) from where you can catch trains to various destinations. Much more frequent buses can be caught at the Bamitha crossroads, 11km away on Hwy 75, where buses between Gwalior, Jhansi and Satna shuttle through all day. Catch a shared jeep (₹10, 7am to 7pm) to Bamitha from the bus stand or as they drive down Jhansi Rd. Taxi Yashowaran Taxi Driver Union is opposite Gole Market. Fares include: airport (₹150), train station (₹250), Raneh Falls (₹500), Panna National Park (₹1500), Satna (₹2000), Orchha (₹2900), Chitrakut (₹2900), Bandhavgarh (₹4800), Varanasi (₹6800) and Agra (₹7000).

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH N O R T H E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

Train Three useful trains leave from KHAJURAHO TRAIN STATION: A daily passenger train leaves at noon for Jhansi, stopping at the tiny train station of Orchha (₹30, four hours). There are 2nd-class seats only, so you can’t buy tickets in advance. Just turn up at the train station, buy a ‘general’ ticket and squeeze in. On Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays the 22447 Khajuraho–Nizamuddin Express leaves for Delhi (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹273/713/960, 6pm, 11½ hours) via Agra (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹210/527/699, 8½ hours). On Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays the 21107 Bundelkhand Link Express leaves for Varanasi (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹198/522/694, 11pm, 12 hours) via Chitrakut (five hours) and Allahabad (eight hours). Train tickets can be bought from the train reservation oﬃce (%274416; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) at the bus stand. You must book tickets at least four hours before departure. Coming to Khajuraho the 21108 Bundelkhand Link Express leaves Varanasi on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays at 5.10pm and passes Allahabad (10.25pm) and Chitrakut (1.03am) before arriving in Khajuraho (5.15am). The 22448 Nizamuddin–Khajuraho Express leaves Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddin station on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 10.15pm and passes Agra (11.20pm) before arriving in Khajuraho (6.05am). The daily passenger train leaves Jhansi at 7.20am, passing Orchha (7.25am) before arriving in Khajuraho at around noon.

8 Getting Around

Bicycle is a great way to get around. Several places along Jain Temples Rd rent them (per day ₹20 to ₹50).

Cycle-rickshaws should cost ₹10 to ₹20 wherever you go in Khajuraho, and around ₹100/200 for a half-/whole-day tour. Autorickshaws are about double the price. Taxis to and from the airport/train station charge ₹150/250, autorickshaws ₹50/80, but if you don’t have too much luggage it’s easy enough to wave down a bus or a shared jeep (₹10) as they head along Jhansi Rd either into or out of town.

Around Khajuraho RANEH FALLS These 30m-high waterfalls (admission Indian/ foreigner on foot or by bicycle ₹15/150, motorbike ₹40/200, autorickshaw ₹80/400, car ₹200/1000, compulsory guide ₹40; h6am-6pm), 18km from

Khajuraho, at times tumble as a churning mass over rocks but are only really worth the trip just after rain. The ticket oﬃce is 3km before the falls so if you don’t want to pay the high fees for vehicle entry be prepared for a bit of a walk. It’s possible to view gharials – a critically endangered species of crocodile – at Ken Gharial Sanctuary (h9am-5pm, closed during monsoon), 8km from the ticket oﬃce,

beyond the falls. The road to Raneh Falls is signposted if you fancy cycling through the countryside from Khajuraho, or else its ₹300/500 return in an autorickshaw/taxi. PANNA NATIONAL PARK

Sadly, in recent years tigers haven’t done well in this reserve (%07732252135; jeep safaris ₹3230 per 6-person jeep, optional 30min boat safari ₹600 per 6-person boat; h5.30-10am & 2.30-5.30pm Oct 16-Jun 30). They were

wiped out completely a few years back, and although three adult tigers were later reintroduced here from Bandhavgarh, Pench and Kanha, and some cubs have been born, actually seeing any tigers here is extremely rare. Nevertheless, this is a good place to see crocodiles and, with the Ken River flowing through it, Panna is a peaceful, picturesque place to spend a day on your way to or from Khajuraho. In fact, it’s easy enough to do an afternoon safari here as a day trip from Khajuraho, using public transport to get to and from Madla. Even if you don’t stay the night here, it’s worth making Jungle Camp (%07732275275; jcmadla@mptourism.com; r ₹1990) your base. There’s a restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹150), you can arrange jeep safaris and there’s a nicely kept garden dotted with children’s play areas in which the comfortable AC tents for guests are located. Jungle Camp is on the edge of Madla village, 200m past the large Ken River bridge (if

you’re coming from Khajuraho), and right by Madla Gate, the main entrance to the park. Regular buses run between Madla and Khajuraho (₹25, one hour) and between Madla and Satna (₹65, three hours), although for Satna you sometimes have to change at the nearby town of Panna (₹10, 30 minutes).

Satna % 07672 / POP 229,307

View (%410600; Rewa Rd; s/d from ₹750/975; a) is 50m right of the bus stand and has de-

cent rooms and a restaurant. Three buses go to Khajuraho (₹75, four hours, 6.30am, 9.15am and 2.30pm). At other times you can go via Panna (last bus 6pm). There are also regular buses towards Chitrakut (₹60, three hours, 6am to 8pm), although you often have to change. Six daily trains go to Varanasi (sleeper/3AC/2AC, ₹158/413/563, seven hours), frequent daily trains go to Jabalpur (₹120/297/400, three hours) and two to Umaria, for Bandhavgarh National Park (₹120/267/359, three hours and four hours, 7pm and 10.15pm).

CENTRAL MADHYA PRADESH Bhopal % 0755 / POP 1.46 MILLION

Split by a pair of central lakes, one of which is India’s largest manmade lake, Bhopal offers two starkly contrasting cityscapes. In the north is the Muslim-dominated old city, a fascinating area of mosques and crowded bazaars. Bhopal’s population is 40% Muslim – one of India’s highest concentration of Muslims – and the women in black niqabs (veils) are reminders of the female Islamic rulers who built up Bhopal in the 19th cen-

1 Sights & Activities Mosques

MOSQUE

Bhopal’s third female ruler, Shah Jahan Begum, wanted to create the largest mosque in the world, so in 1877 set about building Tajul-Masjid (hclosed to non-Muslims Fri). It was still incomplete at her death in 1901, after funds had been diverted to other projects, and construction did not resume until 1971. It is now one of the largest mosques in India, thanks to its huge courtyard. The main structure is enormous too; fortresslike terracotta walls surround three gleaming white onion domes and a pair of towering pink minarets with white domes. If you can make the dawn azan (Muslim call to prayer), you won’t regret it. And while you’re in the area, don’t forget to pop over the road to see Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid, the city’s oldest and teeniest mosque (see boxed text p636). The gold spikes crowning the squat minarets of the Jama Masjid, built in 1837 by Bhopal’s first female ruler, Qudsia Begum, glint serenely above the skull caps and veils swirling through the fascinating bazaar below. The Moti Masjid near Sadar Manzil was built by Qudsia Begum’s daughter and Bhopal’s second female ruler, Sikander Jahan Begum, in 1860. Similar in style to the Jama Masjid in Delhi, this smaller marble-faced mosque has two dark-red minarets and goldspiked cupolas. Inside, the kiblah has 11 white arches. The five most central are marble. State Museum MUSEUM (%2661856; Shamla Hills; Indian/foreigner ₹10/100, camera/video ₹50/200; h10.30am-5.30pm TueSun) This first-class archaeological museum

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CENTR AL PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH S I G H T S &S IAT AC I VS I T S TIVITIES MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT G HNTTA &I EAC

Satna is of no interest to tourists but is a transport link between Khajuraho and Madhya Pradesh’s three big tiger parks – Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench. The bus and train stations are 3km apart (cyclerickshaw/autorickshaw ₹10/25). There is an ATM opposite the bus stand and one at the train station, where you’ll also find MP Tourism (%225471), which is occasionally open. If you get stuck here, Hotel Chandra

tury. North of here is a reminder of a more recent, tragic history – the Union Carbide plant, site of the world’s worst industrial disaster (see boxed text, p637). South of the two lakes, Bhopal is more modern, with wide roads, shopping complexes and more upmarket hotels and restaurants nestled comfortably in the Arera and Shamla Hills, which overlook the lakes and the old city beyond. The central district here is known as New Market. The main train and bus stations are just oﬀ Hamidia Rd – the main budget hotel area – with the bustling chowk (marketplace) slightly further southeast. Hamidia Rd is accessed via the Platform 5 end of the train station. The Platform 1 end is where you’ll find left luggage (you need your own padlock), MP Tourism, the post oﬃce and an ATM.

66 6 634

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MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH C E N T R A L M A D H YA P R A D E S H

includes some wonderful temple sculptures as well as 87 Jain bronzes unearthed by a surprised farmer in western Madhya Pradesh. Keep an eye out for the tiny, but remarkably animated, metal carpet seller in the Royal Collections Gallery.

Bharat Bhavan ART GALLERY (%2660239; admission galleries/performances ₹10/20, galleries free on Fri; h2-8pm Tue-Sun Feb-Oct, 1-7pm Nov-Jan) This cultural centre is

a serene place to take in modern Indian art, tribal carvings and paintings, a library and private contemporary art galleries. There is a cafe, and regular evening performances (7pm) of poetry, music and theatre. Some of the artwork here is of the highest quality. Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya PARK (Museum of Man; %2661319; Shamla Hills; admission ₹10, vehicle ₹10, video ₹50; h10am-5pm TueSun Sep-Feb, 11am-6.30pm Mar-Aug) A kind of

tribal safari park, only without the tribes, this

New Market Rd D

open-air hillside complex is possibly your best chance to get a taste of India’s 450-plus tribes without actually visiting an Adivasi village. Authentic-looking dwellings – built and maintained by Adivasis (tribespeople) using traditional tools and materials – dot the hillside. There’s a mythological trail and a more conventional museum on the hilltop.

Upper Lake LAKE The MP Tourism Boat Club (%3295043; Lake Drive Rd; h9am-6.30pm winter, 9am-7.30pm summer) oﬀers motorboat rides (per person

₹50, five minutes, minimum three people), pedal boats (per boat ₹50, 30 minutes) and even jet skiing (per person ₹300). Children might enjoy feeding the more than 100 geese that make their home by the boat club.

T Tours

Bhopal-On-Wheels (%3295040; 3½hr tour adult/child ₹60/30; h11am) is a guided tour

Bhopal æ Sights 1 Bharat Bhavan .....................................B3 2 Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid............................ B1 3 Jama Masjid .........................................C2 4 Moti Masjid...........................................C2 5 MP Tourism Boat Club........................A3 6 Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya Entrance Gate ...................................A4 7 State Museum .....................................A4 8 Taj-ul-Masjid ........................................ B1 Activities, Courses & Tours Bhopal-On-Wheels .....................(see 12)

ú Eating 14 Bapu Ki Kutia .......................................C4 15 Indian Coffee House............................C4 16 Manohar ............................................... D1 17 New Inn.................................................C4 û ü Drinking 18 Café Coffee Day...................................A4 19 Wine Shop ............................................ D1 þ Shopping 20 Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan..................C4 21 Mrignayani ...........................................C4 22 Variety Book House.............................C4 Information 23 Hamidia Hospital ................................. B1 MP Tourism Regional Office......(see 12) 24 Raj Medical Store ................................ D1 Transport 25 Air India ................................................C4 26 Autorickshaw Stand............................C4 27 Buses to Hamidia Road.......................C4 28 Buses to Islamnagar............................ C1 29 Central Bus Stand ............................... D1 30 Minibuses to New Market ................... D1

on a toy-train lookalike open bus, departing from Palash Residency (p636) and winding through the hills and the old city. Stops include Taj-ul-Masjid, MP Tourism Boat Club and Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya. Minimum five passengers.

All hotels here, including budget ones, add at least 10% tax to their listed rates.

635

HAMIDIA ROAD Hotel Rama International HOTEL $ (%2740542; 2 Hamidia Rd; s/d ₹350/450, with AC ₹600/750; a) Big, airy rooms in this old-

school Indian hotel come with clean, tiled flooring and quality wooden furniture. Much better value than its foreign-friendly neighbours, but it’s often full. Hotel Ranjit HOTEL $$ (%2740500; ranjeethotels@sancharnet.in; 3 Hamidia Rd; s/d from ₹400/600, with AC from ₹650/850; ai) They look after you in Ran-

jit. Even in the cheapest rooms you get your own soap, towel, bottle of mineral water and a complimentary breakfast, plus there’s one computer terminal in the lobby for brief (free) internet use. The restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹140) here is good and there’s a bar (beer from ₹126). Hotel Sonali HOTEL $$ (%2740880; sonalinn@sancharnet.in; Radha Talkies Rd; s/d from ₹450/495, with AC incl breakfast from ₹1000/1200; aiW) Excellent service

and shiny tiled floors in big rooms make this the best quality option near Hamidia Rd. Some non-AC rooms come with slightly shabby carpets, but all have TV and there’s 24-hour internet and free wi-fi in the lobby. Also has a restaurant. From Hamidia Rd, turn left down the lane alongside Hotel Ranjit and follow it round to the right.

NEW MARKET Jehan Numa Palace Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%2661100; www.hoteljehanumapalace.com; 157 Shamla Hill; cottage s/d ₹3700/4700, s ₹49007300, d ₹5900-8300, ste from ₹14,000, incl breakfast; aiWs) This former 19th-century

palace lost none of its colonial-era charm through conversion into a top-class hotel. Arched walkways and immaculate lawns lead you to beautifully decorated rooms. There’s a palm-lined pool, an excellent health spa and three restaurants, including one under the shade of an enormous mango tree.

Park Hotel HOTEL $$ (%4057711; Rang Mahal Rd; s/d from ₹500/600, with AC from ₹700/900; a) This neat place is a good-

value option for New Market, with a great location close to all the restaurants, shops

CENTR AL PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH S L E E P I N GB MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT S LHEOEPA P I LN G

ÿ Sleeping 9 Hotel Rama International.................... D1 Hotel Ranjit................................... (see 9) 10 Hotel Sonali.......................................... D1 11 Jehan Numa Palace Hotel...................B4 12 Palash Residency ................................C4 13 Park Hotel ............................................C4

4 Sleeping

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THE WORLD’S SMALLEST MOSQUE?

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH C E N T R A L M A D H YA P R A D E S H

There are more than 400 mosques in Bhopal, the most famous being the biggest of them all, the towering Taj-ul-Masjid. But what many visitors don’t know is that this fascinating city is also home to what we believe to be the world’s smallest mosque. It’s hard to confirm such sweeping claims, but we paced out the main prayer hall of Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid and found it to be roughly 16 sq metres in size. Internet searches since then have yet to dig up a smaller mosque, either in India or elsewhere. Whether it really is the world’s smallest mosque or not, Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid is well worth a visit. Intriguingly, it’s hidden away inside the grounds of a hospital, which in turn were built inside the grounds of the now ruined 18th-century Fatehgarh Fort. The whitewashed mosque is perched on top of an overgrown stone turret, which forms a corner of the old fortress wall, and was built as the very first mosque in Bhopal, so that soldiers deployed as guards could perform their daily prayers. Roughly translated, the mosque’s name means ‘two-and-a-half-steps mosque’, in reference to the steps leading up to its tiny prayer hall. A gatekeeper is usually on hand to let you in for a quick look round, although when we were here he could neither confirm nor deny Dhai Seedi Ki Masjid’s potential record-holding status. To get here, enter Hamidia Hospital from Royal Market Rd, then turn right into the campus of Gandhi Medical College. Follow the road around the main building and you’ll eventually see the mosque on your right.

and market stalls, and has decent rooms with marble floors, TV and hot-water showers.

fermented cheese and pea curry). Has good kebabs too.

Palash Residency HOTEL $$ (%2553066; palash@mptourism.com; TT Nagar; s/d from ₹2290/2490; aiW) Walking dis-

Indian Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN $ (New Market; mains ₹30-130; h7am-11pm) As al-

tance from New Market, this MP Tourism hotel has smart rooms with dark-wood furniture, wall-mounted flat-screen TV, kettle, complimentary toiletries and free wi-fi in the lobby. Has a bar and restaurant.

5 Eating & Drinking oBapu Ki Kutia

INDIAN $

(Sultania Rd; mains ₹42-110; h10am-11pm) Papa’s

Shack has been serving up delicious Indian veg dishes since the ’60s and is so popular you often have to share a table. Does handy half portions if you just fancy a snack. There’s an English menu, but no English sign. Look for the picture of a beach hut and palm tree above the door. New Inn INDIAN $$ (New Market; mains ₹40-160; h8am-10pm) Clean

and colourful split-level restaurant with a well-priced menu delivered by staﬀ in waistcoats and bow ties. There are good breakfast choices, including filter coﬀee (₹10), but it’s the delicious main courses that hit the spot. If you like a bit of spice, don’t leave this place without trying the mattar paneer (un-

ways, Indian Coﬀee House is a top spot for breakfast, with waiters in white suits and fan-tailed hats serving good-value coﬀee plus South Indian favourites such as dosa, idli and vada (doughnut-shaped deepfried lentil savoury). There’s a good choice of mains here too, ranging from biryani to Chinese. Manohar INDIAN $ (6 Hamidia Rd; mains ₹30-90; h8am-11pm) This

bright, clean, canteen-style restaurant is a decent place to come for South Indian breakfasts. After midday it also does thalis and ‘mini-meals’ as well as some Chinese dishes and pizza. Has an impressive range of cakes, cookies and sweets at a side counter. Café Coffee Day CAFE (Lake Drive Rd; coffee from ₹35-93; h8.30am10.30pm) Quality fresh coffee and over-

priced snacks come with the best view in town.

Wine Shop (Hamidia Rd; draft beer ₹30; h10am-10pm)

BAR $

There are a number of bottle shops on this stretch of Hamidia Rd, but this one has the added attraction of beer on tap. Has

a couple of benches inside, otherwise it’s stand-on-the-side-of-the-street drinking.

Shopping

Bhopal’s two main shopping areas are the small shops and stalls around New Market, which really come to life in the evenings, and the labyrinthine old-city alleys of chowk that weave their way towards the Jama Masjid. Both areas stock delicate gold and silver jewellery, fancifully woven saris, handembroidered appliqué skirts and jari (glittering embroidery, often including shards of mirror or glass) shoulder bags, a speciality of Bhopal. Mrignayani HANDICRAFTS (23 New Market Shopping Centre; h11am-2.30pm & 3.30-8pm Tue-Sun) This state-owned place

Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan CLOTHING (Bhadbhada Rd; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun) Kurta, py-

jama, head scarves and shirts made from the famous khadi cotton (see boxed text p1132), plus some quality khadi silk garments. Next-day tailoring service available.

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selection of contemporary novels and Indian history books.

8 Information

There are internet cafes (per hr from ₹10) off Hamidia Rd and around New Market. Hamidia Hospital (%2540222; Royal Market Rd) Housed within the grounds of the now ruined Fatehgarh Fort. Main post office (Sultania Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Also a counter at the train station. MP Tourism airport (hincoming flights); regional office (%2550588; Palash Residency, TT Nagar; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, h10am-5pm Sat & Sun); train station (%2746827; h9.30am5.30pm) Raj Medical Store (Hamidia Rd; h9am9.30pm) State Bank of India (Rang Mahal Rd; h11am5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat) ‘International Division’ on 1st floor changes travellers cheques and cash. Has ATM. There’s also an ATM at the train station.

THE BHOPAL DISASTER – A CONTINUING TRAGEDY At five minutes past midnight on 3 December 1984, 40 tonnes of deadly methyl isocyanate (MIC) gas leaked out over Bhopal from the US-owned Union Carbide chemical plant. Blown by the wind, rivers of the heavy gas coursed through the city. In the ensuing panic, people were trampled trying to escape while others were so disorientated that they ran into the gas. There were 3828 initial fatalities according to official figures, but the continuing death toll stands at over 20,000. More than 120,000 people suffer from a catalogue of illnesses from hypertension and diabetes to premature menopause and skin disorders, while their children experience growth disorders, such as shrunken rib cages. The leak at the plant resulted from a saga of untested technology, negligent maintenance and cost-cutting measures. Damages of US$3 billion were demanded, and in 1989 Union Carbide paid the Indian government US$470 million, but winning compensation for the victims has been a tortuous process slowed by the Indian government’s wrangling over who was a victim and Dow Chemical’s acquisition of Union Carbide in 2001. Both buyer and seller deny ongoing liability. Union Carbide also financed the building of a multimillion dollar hospital, while charity Sambhavna Trust Clinic (%2730914; www.bhopal.org; Bafna Colony, Berasia Rd; h8.30am-3pm) treats more than 200 people a day using yoga, Ayurvedic treatments, conventional Western treatments and remedies prepared using herbs from its medicinal garden. Volunteers can work in a range of areas from watertesting and medical research to gardening and internet communications; they are hugely appreciated and offered board and lodgings in the medical centre. Visitors and, of course, donations are also always welcome. Bafna Colony is off Berasia Rd. If walking from Hamidia Rd, turn right after about 500m and keep asking for Sambhavna.

CENTR AL PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH S H O P P I NB MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT SGH O P PA P ILN G

offers stress-free handicraft shopping, though the fixed prices are higher than in the market behind it.

Variety Book House BOOKSTORE (14-15 GTB Complex, Bhadbhada Rd; h10am10pm) Stationery, maps and a fabulous

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HANDY TRAINS FROM BHOPAL DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)*

DURATION (HR)

DEPARTURE

Agra

12627 Karnataka Express

244/631/852

11.35pm

Delhi

12621 Tamil Nadu Express

295/772/1048

10½

8.35pm

Gwalior

11077 Jhelum Express

178/472/644

9.15am

Indore

12920 Malwa Express

161/397/529

7.50am

Jabalpur

18233 Narmada Express

164/430/586

11.35pm

Mumbai (CST)

12138 Punjab Mail

325/857/1167

14½

5pm

Raipur

18238 Chhattisgarh Express 269/728/998

14½

6.55pm

Ujjain

12920 Malwa Express

3½

7.50am

140/322/424

*Fares are sleeper/3AC/2AC

8 Getting There & Away MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH C E N T R A L M A D H YA P R A D E S H

Air Air India (%2770480; Bhadbhada Rd; h10am5pm Mon-Sat) flies daily to Delhi (from ₹3800, one hour, 9.05am) and Mumbai (from ₹3800, two hours, 7.30pm) via Indore (₹3400, 20 minutes). Bus Services from central bus stand oﬀ Hamidia Rd include: BHIMBETKA ₹30, one hour, regular, 6am to 6pm INDORE ₹130, five hours, three daily, 6am, 6.15am and 7.30am JABALPUR ₹230, eight hours, regular, 5am to 11pm PACHMARHI ₹140, six hours, six daily, 5.15am, 6.15am, 8.15am, 3pm, sleeper 1am and 2.30am SANCHI ₹30, 1½ hours, regular, 5am to 9.30pm Train There are more than 20 daily trains to Gwalior and Agra and more than 10 to Ujjain and Delhi. See boxed text, p638.

8 Getting Around

Minibuses and buses (both ₹5) shuttle between New Market and Hamidia Rd all day and all evening. Catch ones to New Market at the eastern end of Hamidia Rd. Returning from New Market, you can catch them from the Nehru Statue. Autorickshaws cost about ₹40 for the same journey. The autorickshaw fare from New Market to MP Tourism Boat Club is ₹40, and from Hamidia Rd to Taj-ul-Masjid it’s ₹30. The airport is 16km northwest of central Bhopal. Expect to pay at least ₹100/200 for an autorickshaw/taxi.

Around Bhopal ISLAMNAGAR

This now-ruined fortified city 11km north of Bhopal was the first capital of Bhopal state, founded as Jagdishpur by the Rajputs before Dost Mohammed Khan occupied and renamed it in the early 18th century. The still-standing walls enclose two villages as well as the remains of two palaces (Indian/ foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk), Chaman Mahal and Rani Mahal. The 18th-century Chaman Mahal is a synthesis of traditional Indian and Islamic architecture with Bengali-influenced drooping eaves. The main attraction is the Mughal water garden. There’s also a hammam (Turkish bath) with changing rooms and water troughs in the dark, cool interior. Adjacent is the dusty 19th-century Rani Mahal with a colonnaded Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience). Outside stand eight massive iron treasure chests, presumably delivered by outsized porters from the nearby hathi khana (elephant stables). Catch a tempo, bus or shared jeep (all ₹10) up Berasia Rd, though you may have to change, or take an autorickshaw (₹100). BHOJPUR

Built by the founder of Bhopal, Raja Bhoj (1010–53), Bhojpur used to be home to a 400-sq-km manmade lake, which was destroyed in the 15th century by the dambusting Mandu ruler Hoshang Shah. Thankfully, the magnificent Bhojeshwar Temple survived the attack.

Square in shape and simple in design, this 1000-year-old Hindu temple doesn’t look much from the outside, but the interior of the sanctum, supported by four gargantuan pillars and housing the world’s tallest Shiva lingam (22ft), is very powerful indeed. Beautifully carved figures now share space with beehive honeycombs on the partly restored ceiling. Round the back, a large stony ramp illustrates how such huge pieces of rock would have been moved into position onto the temple’s 5m-tall platform. To the side, fenced-oﬀ areas of rocky slopes show etchings of grander plans for a temple complex that was never finished. Take the Bhimbetka bus to the turn-oﬀ for Bhojpur (₹10, 30 minutes), where tempos (₹10) ply the 11km-road to the temple. BHIMBETKA

₹10/100, motorbike or car ₹50/200, autorickshaw ₹100/400; hdawn-dusk). Around 500 of them

contain some of the world’s oldest prehistoric paintings. Thanks to their natural red and white pigments, the colours are remarkably well preserved and, in certain caves, paintings of

Around Bhopal

0 0

10 km 6 miles

Satpara

Betwa Berasia

Halali Reservoir

River

To Heliodorus Gyaraspur (30km) Pillar Udaigiri

Ri ve r

Pipalkhera

Udaigiri Caves Satdhara as

Vidisha Sanchi

Gunaga

Highway Treat Bhimbetka (%07480 281558; r ₹890; a), with a pleasant restau-

rant-cafe (mains ₹60 to ₹110; h8am-10pm), a children’s playground and five comfortable AC rooms, is by the Bhimbetka turning, 3km from the rock shelters. The ticket oﬃce is halfway up the road to the rocks from here. Ask your bus driver to drop you at the turning for Bhimbetka, about 6.5km beyond Obaidullaganj. It’s a 45-minute, 3km walk from here. Alternatively, take an autorickshaw from Obaidullaganj. On the return journey, flag down anything that moves (buses often won’t stop for you) and go as far as Obaidullaganj (₹5), where you’ll find buses to Bhopal (₹25) via the Bhojpur turning (₹15).

Diwanganj Sonari

Islamnagar Raisen

Narwar

Andher

Bhopal

Bhojpur

Obaidullaganj Bhimbetka

To Hoshangabad (12km); Itarsi (25km)

Sanchi % 07482 / POP 6784

Rising from the plains, 46km northeast of Bhopal, is a rounded hill topped with some of India’s oldest Buddhist structures. In 262 BC, repentant of the horrors he had inflicted on Kalinga in present-day Odisha, the Mauryan emperor Ashoka (see boxed text, p1087) embraced Buddhism. As a penance he built the Great Stupa at Sanchi, near the birthplace of his wife. A domed edifice used to house religious relics, it was the first Buddhist monument in the region,

639

CENTR AL PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH 8 MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT 8ANCHI S

Secreted in a forest of teak and sal in craggy cliﬀs 46km south of Bhopal are more than 700 rock shelters (Indian/foreigner on foot

diﬀerent eras adorn the same rock surface. A gamut of figures and scenes spill across the rocks: gaurs (Indian bison), rhinoceroses, bears and tigers share space with scenes of hunting, initiation ceremonies, childbirth, communal dancing, drinking, religious rites and burials. The oldest paintings (Upper Palaeolithic) in red, often of huge animals, are thought to be 12,000 years old. Successive periods depict hunting tools, trade with the agricultural communities on the Malwa plains, and, still later, religious scenes involving tree gods. The latest are crude geometric figures probably dating from the medieval period, when much of the artistry was lost. The rock shelters are easy to find. The 15 most accessible are numbered, signposted and linked by a concrete path. Zoo Rock Shelter (Shelter 4), famous for its variety of animal paintings, is one of the first you come to; Shelter 15 features a magnificent red bison attacking a helpless stick figure. There are no facilities here, so bring water.

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although many other religious structures followed. As Hinduism gradually reabsorbed Buddhism, the site decayed and was forgotten, until purportedly being ‘rediscovered’ in 1818 by a British army oﬃcer. Although Sanchi can be visited as a day trip from Bhopal, this crossroads village is a relaxing spot to spend the night, and a number of side trips can be taken from here.

1 Sights

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH C E N T R A L M A D H YA P R A D E S H

The hilltop stupas (Indian/foreigner ₹10/250, car ₹10, museum ₹5; hdawn-dusk) are reached via a path and stone steps at the end of Monuments Rd (which is a continuation of the road that leaves the train station), where the ticket oﬃce is located. If you’re going up to the stupas for sunrise, buy a ticket the day before. Remember, it is auspicious to walk clockwise around Buddhist monuments. Stupa 1 (Great Stupa)

SACRED SITE

Beautifully proportioned, the Great Stupa is the main structure on the hill, directly in front of you as you enter the complex from the north. Originally constructed by Ashoka, it was later enlarged and the original brick stupa enclosed within a stone one. Presently it stands 16m high and 37m in diameter. Encircling the stupa is a wall with four entrances through magnificently carved toranas (gateways) that are the finest Buddhist works of art in Sanchi, if not India. Toranas The stupa’s four gateways were erected around 35 BC but had all fallen down by the time the site was rediscovered. They have since been repositioned. Scenes carved onto the pillars and their triple architraves are mainly tales from the Jatakas, episodes from Buddha’s various lives. At this stage in Buddhist art he was never represented directly – his presence was alluded to through symbols. The lotus stands for his birth, the bodhi tree his enlightenment, the wheel his teachings, and the footprint and throne his presence. The stupa itself also symbolises Buddha. The Northern Gateway, topped by a broken wheel of law, is the best preserved of the toranas. Scenes include a monkey oﬀering a bowl of honey to Buddha, who is represented by a bodhi tree. Another panel depicts the Miracle of Sravasti – one of several miracles represented here – in which Buddha, again in the form of a bodhi tree,

ascends a road into the air. Elephants support the architraves above the columns, while delicately carved yakshis (maidens) hang nonchalantly on each side. The breathtakingly carved figure of a yakshi, hanging from an architrave on the Eastern Gateway, is one of Sanchi’s best-known images. One of the pillars, supported by elephants, features scenes from Buddha’s entry to nirvana. Another shows Buddha’s mother Maya’s dream of an elephant standing on the moon, which she had when he was conceived. Across the front of the middle architrave is the Great Departure, when Buddha (a riderless horse) renounced the sensual life and set out to find enlightenment. The back-to-back lions supporting the Southern Gateway, the oldest gateway, form the state emblem of India, which can be seen on every banknote. The gateway narrates Ashoka’s life as a Buddhist, with scenes of Buddha’s birth and another representation of the Great Departure. Also featured is the Chhaddanta Jataka, a story in which Bodhisattva (Buddha before he had reached enlightenment) took on the form of an elephant king who had six tusks. The less favoured of the elephant king’s two wives was so jealous of the other that she decided to starve herself to death, vowing to come back to life as the queen of Benares in order to have the power to avenge her husband’s favouritism. Her wish came true and as queen she ordered hunters to track down and kill the elephant king. A hunter found the great elephant but before he could kill it, the elephant handed over his tusks, an act so noble it led to the queen dying of remorse. Potbellied dwarfs support the architraves of the Western Gateway, which has some of the site’s most interesting scenes. The top architrave shows Buddha in seven diﬀerent incarnations, manifested three times as a stupa and four times as a tree. The rear of one pillar shows Buddha resisting the Temptation of Mara (the Buddhist personification of evil, often called the Buddhist devil), while demons flee and angels cheer. Other Stupas SACRED SITE Stupa 2 is halfway down the hill to the

west (turn right at Stupa 1). If you come up from the village by the main route you can walk back down via Stupa 2, although be prepared for some oﬀ-piste fence-hopping at the bottom. Instead of gateways, ‘medallions’ decorate the surrounding wall – naive

in design, but full of energy and imagination. Flowers, animals and people – some mythological – ring the stupa. Stupa 3 is northeast of the Great Stupa (you pass it on your left as you approach the Great Stupa from the main entrance) and similar in design, though smaller, with a single, rather fine gateway. It once contained relics of two important disciples of Buddha, Sari Puttha and Maha Moggallana. They were moved to London in 1853 but returned in 1953 and are now kept in the modern vihara (resting place). Only the base is left of the 2nd-centuryBC Stupa 4, which stands behind Stupa 3. Between Stupas 1 and 3 is the small Stupa 5, unusual in that it once contained a statue of Buddha, now displayed in the museum. Pillars

MONUMENT

Temples BUDDHIST TEMPLES Temple 18 (behind Stupa 1) is a chaitya

(prayer room or assembly hall) remarkably similar in style to classical Greek-columned buildings. It dates from around the 7th century AD, but traces of earlier wooden buildings have been discovered beneath it. To its left is the small, also Greek-like Temple 17. Beyond both of them, the large Temple 40 dates back to the Ashokan period, in part. The rectangular Temple 31 (beside Stupa 5) was built in the 6th or 7th century but reconstructed during the 10th or 11th century. It contains a well-executed image of Buddha. Monasteries

MONASTERY

The earliest monasteries were made of wood and are long gone. The usual plan was of a central courtyard surrounded by monastic cells. These days only the courtyards and stone foundations remain. Monasteries 45 and 47, standing on the eastern ridge to the left of Stupa 1, date from the transition from Buddhism to Hinduism, with strong Hindu elements in their design. The former has two sitting Buddhas. The one housed inside is exceptional.

641

Vihara MUSEUM The vihara (h9am-5pm), literally ‘resting

place’, was built to house the returned relics from Stupa 3. They can be viewed on the last Sunday of the month. It’s immediately on your left as you enter the complex. Archaeological Museum MUSEUM (admission ₹5, free with Stupa ticket; h8am5pm Sat-Thu) This fine museum has a small

collection of sculptures from the site. The centrepiece is the 3rd-century BC lion capital from the Ashoka Pillar 10. Other highlights include a yakshi hanging from a mango tree, and beautifully serene Buddha figures in red sandstone – some of the earliest found anywhere. There are also some interesting photos showing the site, pre-restoration.

4 Sleeping & Eating

New Jaiswal Lodge GUESTHOUSE $ (%266508; Monuments Rd; r ₹350-550, with AC ₹750-850; a) This friendly place has cute,

clean, colourful rooms and small private bathrooms with sit-down toilets. On your right as you exit the train station. Does food.

Gateway Retreat HOTEL $$ (%266723; www.mptourism.com; Bhopal-Vidisha Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1590/1690; as)

This family-friendly MP Tourism hotel is the most comfortable place to stay in Sanchi. AC bungalows are set among well-kept gardens with a small children’s play area and a swimming pool with slide. There’s a restaurant (mains ₹45 to ₹125; open 7am to 11pm) and bar (beer from ₹150). Come out of the train station, turn right at the crossroads and it’s on your right. Krishna Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ (%266610; Bhopal-Vidisha Rd; r ₹100-300) Sim-

ple rooftop rooms, some with sit-down flush toilets, are slightly more expensive than the darker, noisier rooms at the front. It’s above Jaiswal Medical Store. Come out of the train station, turn left at the crossroads and it’s on your right.

Gateway Cafeteria INDIAN (%266743; Monuments Rd; mains ₹45-90; h7am-10.30pm) This clean MP Tourism

place has a simple Indian menu plus

CENTR AL PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH S L E E P I N GS LA&ENECP AT MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT HI INI N GG& E AT I N G

Of the scattered remains of pillars, the most important is Pillar 10, erected by Ashoka but later broken. Two upper sections of this beautifully proportioned and executed shaft lie side by side behind Stupa 1; the capital (head of the pillar, usually sculpted) is in the museum. Pillar 25 (to the left of Stupa 1) dating from the Sunga period (2nd century BC), and the 5th-century-AD Pillar 35 (to the right of Stupa 1) are less impressive.

Behind Monastery 51, partway down the hill towards Stupa 2, is the Great Bowl, carved from a boulder, into which food and oﬀerings were placed for distribution to the monks.

642

coffee. Come out of the train station and keep going. It’s on your left, just before the ticket office for the stupas.

8 Information

There’s nowhere to change money in Sanchi and the nearest ATM is in Vidisha. A couple of places in the market by the bus stand have internet access (per hr ₹30 to ₹40)

8 Getting There & Around

Bike You can rent bicycles (per hour/day ₹5/30) at the market by the bus stand.

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH C E N T R A L M A D H YA P R A D E S H

Bus Frequent buses connect Sanchi with Bhopal (₹25, 1½ hours, 6am to 10pm) and Vidisha (₹8, 20 minutes, 6am to 11pm). It’s better to wait at the village crossroads for buses rather than going into the bus stand, which is on your right as you exit the train station. Train Train is a decent option for getting to Sanchi from Bhopal. It takes less than an hour so there’s no need to book a seat: just turn up with enough time to queue up for a ‘general’ ticket (₹7 to ₹21), and squeeze on. Six daily trains leave from Bhopal (8am, 10.20am, 3.15pm, 4.10pm, 6pm and 8.55pm). Only four run in the other direction (8am, 8.50am, 4.30pm and 7.10pm).

Around Sanchi VIDISHA

% 07592 / POP 125,453

This small but thriving market town, 8km northeast of Sanchi, was a commercial centre in the 5th and 6th centuries BC. These days it’s an interesting place for a wander or a chai break en route to the Udaigiri Caves. Many of the attractive whitewashed or painted buildings still have old wooden balconies that overlook the market streets where horse-drawn carts share space with scooters and rickshaws. There are also a number of brightly coloured temples dotted around the old town, which is located to the left of the main road from Sanchi. Past the town, and over the railway line, is the dusty District Museum (Sagar-Vidisha Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹5/50, camera ₹50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), which houses some beautiful sculp-

tures recovered from local sites, the most impressive of which is a 3m-high, 2nd-century-

BC stone statue of Kuber Yaksha, treasurer of the gods, on display as you enter. It’s a straightforward 30-minute cycle from Sanchi or else there are frequent buses (₹8, 20 minutes). UDAIGIRI CAVES

Cut into a sandstone hill, about 5km northwest of Vidisha, are some 20 Gupta cave shrines (hdawn-dusk) dating from the reign of Chandragupta II (AD 382–401). Most are Hindu but two, near the top of the hill, are Jain (Caves 1 and 20) – unfortunately both are closed due to unsafe roofs. In Cave 4 is a lingam bearing Shiva’s face complete with a third eye. Cave 5 contains the finest carving – a superb image of Vishnu in his boar incarnation topped with a frieze of gods, who also flank the entrance to Cave 6. Lotus-ceilinged Cave 7 was cut out for the personal use of Chandragupta II. On the top of the hill are ruins of a 6th-century Gupta temple dedicated to the sun god. To get here by bike from Sanchi, head towards Vidisha but about 1km before the town, turn left, following a sign for Udaigiri. Follow the road to the Betwa River, cross the river then take the first left and keep going until you reach the caves. Alternatively, take a bus to Vidisha then a rickshaw (₹100 return). A return rickshaw from Sanchi is about ₹250. If you want to cycle back via Vidisha, cross back over the river and keep going straight instead of bearing round to the right on the road you took from Sanchi. HELIODORUS PILLAR

The Heliodorus Pillar (Khamb Baba), just beyond the Udaigiri Caves turning, was erected by a Greek ambassador, Heliodorus from Taxila (now in Pakistan), in about 140 BC, and dedicated to Vasudeva. The pillar is worshipped by local fishermen who chain themselves to the pillar on fullmoon nights. It is said they then become possessed and are able to drive evil spirits from other locals. When someone has been exorcised, they drive a nail into the tamarind tree nearby, fixing to it a lime, a piece of coconut, a red thread and supposedly the spirit. The large tree is bristling with old nails. The pillar is close to the Udaigiri Caves. Once you cross the Betwa River, carry straight on, rather than turning left for the caves, and you’ll soon see a sign directing up a small lane on your right, which leads to the pillar.

Pachmarhi % 07578 / POP 11,370 / ELEV 1067M

WATERFALL

Chauragarh

VIEWPOINT

Just south of town, past Christchurch, the trailhead for Bee Falls is easily accessed by bike. There are chai and snack stalls along the way to the bottom of the trail. Further along the main road, past the trailhead, you’ll find the access roads for Duchess Falls, the two beauty points known as Reechgarh and Astachal, and a small, crystal-clear pool called Ramykund. On the other side of Jaistambha, about 1km past Pandav Caves, is the trailhead for Apsara Vihar (Fairy Pool), a pool underneath a small waterfall, which is the best of Pachmarhi’s natural pools for swimming. Upstream from here is Panchuli Kund, five descending rock pools which are great for a paddle. Steps up from the snack stall by Apsara Vihar lead to a point with magnificent views of the gorge and of Rajat Prapat (Big Fall), the tallest of Pachmarhi’s waterfalls, which tumbles down a gully in a sheer cliﬀ.

named Bison Lodge after a herd of bison he spotted here. It’s now an old-fashioned, dilapidated museum focusing on the history, flora and fauna of the Satpura region.

South of Jaistambha is the road that leads towards Chauragarh (1308m), Madhya Pradesh’s third-highest peak. The Shiva shrine at the top attracts tens of thousands of pilgrims during Shivaratri Mela (see p611). On the way, stop at Handi Khoh, also known as Suicide Point, to gawk down the 100m canyon into the dense forest. You’ll spy Chauragarh in the distance from here as well as Priyadarshini (Forsyth Point), further along the road. About 3km beyond Priyadarshini the road ends at Mahadeo Cave, where a path 30m into the damp gloom reveals a lingam with attendant priest. This is the beginning of the 1365-step pilgrim trail to Chauragarh (five hours’ return hike). A kilometre further on, another Shiva shrine is at the back of a terrifyingly narrow passage created by sticks holding open a fissure in the cliﬀ.

Caves

1 Sights

Satpura National Park NATURE RESERVE (Indian/foreigner per day ₹20/200, entrance fee per jeep Indian/foreigner ₹250/1500; hdawn-dusk) A

ticket for Satpura National Park must be bought at the ticket office (h8am-noon & 4-8pm Apr-Oct, 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Nov-Mar) outside Bison Lodge. It includes entry to Bison Lodge, Bee Falls, Duchess Falls, Reechgarh, Astachal, Ramykund and Rajat Prapat (including Panchuli Kund and Apsara Vihar). Other sights are free. Bison Lodge MUSEUM (h8am-noon & 4-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) Captain Forsyth

CAVES

The nearest sight to Pachmarhi village is Jata Shankar, a cave temple in a beautiful gorge about 2.5km along a good track that’s signed just north of the town limits. The small Shiva shrine is hidden under a huge overhanging rock. Just southeast of Jaistambha, you’ll find Pandav Caves, which are believed to have been carved by Buddhists as early as the 4th century. The foundations of a brick Buddhist stupa have been excavated on top of them.

Activities

All the sights mentioned here can be cycled to, although bikes have to be left at the trailheads from where the hiking begins. Baba

Cycles (Subhash Rd; per hr/day ₹5/50; h9.15am9pm) rents bikes. Parasailing

PARASAILING

Parasailing (per person ₹350; 9am to noon and 2.30 to 6pm) can be done at the airstrip near Reechgarh.

643

CENTR AL PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH S I G H T S PAC MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT S I G HHTMSA R H I

Madhya Pradesh’s only hill station is surrounded by waterfalls, cave temples and the forested ranges of the Satpura Tiger Reserve and oﬀers a perfect escape from steamy central India. Even if you don’t go on an organised trek or jeep safari, you can easily spend a couple of days here cycling or hiking to the numerous sights before taking a dip in one of the natural pools that dot the area. Explorer Captain J Forsyth ‘discovered’ Pachmarhi as late as 1857 and set up India’s first Forestry Department at Bison Lodge in 1862. Soon after, the British army set up regional headquarters here, starting an association with the military that remains today. A number of colonial buildings from that era have been converted into delightful guesthouses, which can be found in the Jaistambha area, 2km southwest of the small town.

Pools & Waterfalls

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Swimming

SWIMMING

Trekking

TREKKING

Locals paddle at the bottom of Bee Falls and Duchess Falls, and Ramykund is good for an invigorating plunge, but for a proper swim, try Apsara Vihar. Satpura Adventure Club, based at Hotel Saketh, can arrange guides (per day ₹300; Hindi-speaking only) to take you on treks around the area. Forestry commission guides (per day ₹315 to ₹510) can also be arranged at Bison Lodge ticket oﬃce; some speak English. Wildlife Safaris JEEP SAFARIS Satpura Tiger Reserve (entrance fee per jeep Indian/foreign ₹2000/3000; 16 Oct-30 Jun)

has tigers and leopards, although you’re unlikely to see either. What you will get, though, is virgin forests without another tourist jeep in sight, plus plenty of monkeys, deer and birds of all types. On top of

your group and jeep entrance fee, you will need to pay for a guide (₹315). Fees are per jeep, not per person. Unlike in other tiger parks, where safaris are split into morning and afternoon outings, here you get a full day in the reserve, and there are opportunities to overnight in the reserve at a Forest Rest House (d Indian/foreign ₹1000/2500). All food costs are extra. Safaris are best arranged at Bison Lodge.

4 Sleeping & Eating High seasons are from April to July and December to January, when places fill up and room rates rocket. The same applies during national holidays and major festivals. PACHMARHI TOWN Hotel Saketh HOTEL $ (%252165; hotelsaket2003@yahoo.com; r ₹200500, with AC ₹1000; a) There is a wide range

of rooms in this friendly hotel on a quiet side

Pachmarhi æ Sights 1 Apsara Vihar (Fairy Pool)....................D4 2 Astachal................................................A3 3 Bee Falls ...............................................B2 4 Bison Lodge .........................................C3 5 Duchess Falls .......................................A2 6 Jata Shankar ........................................ D1 Panchuli Kund............................... (see 1) 7 Pandav Caves ......................................D3 8 Rajat Prapat .........................................D4 9 Ramykund ............................................A3 10 Reechgarh............................................A3

ú Eating 17 Nandavan Restaurant .........................C3 Raj Bhoj .......................................(see 15) Information 18 MP Tourism..........................................C3 19 MP Tourism Kiosk ............................... A1 Transport 20 Baba Cycles ......................................... B1

street oﬀ Patel Rd, from budget classics to midrange options. The attached restaurant Raj Bhoj (mains ₹30-90) does Gujarati, Bengali, Chinese and South Indian dishes, including delicious breakfast dosa. Hotel Prateek HOTEL $$ (%252427; Subhash Rd; r ₹495-795, with AC ₹995; a) Kitsch rooms decorated in pinks,

browns and maroons come with neon lighting, flowery net curtains and corner beds with velvet covers. Bathrooms are large and clean.

Hotel Highlands HOTEL $$ (%252099; highland@mptourism.com; Pipariya Rd; r ₹890, with AC ₹1290; a) This family-friendly

MP Tourism property on the approach road into Pachmari has rooms with high ceilings, dressing rooms, modern bathrooms and verandas, which are dotted around well-tended gardens. There’s a children’s play area and a restaurant.

oEvelyn’s Own

GUESTHOUSE $$

645

(%252056; evelynsown@gmail.com; r incl breakfast ₹1000-4000; ais) Simply gorgeous

colonial-era cottage built by a reverend then bought and converted into a guesthouse by the wonderfully welcoming Colonel Balwant Rao and his wife Pramilla. The main cottage, where you can share meals (veg/meat ₹100/150) with the colonel and his wife, is full of family portraits and period furniture. Guest rooms – also beautifully decorated – are in buildings dotted around the fabulously lush gardens, which also contain a small swimming pool. Follow the signs to Satpura Retreat, which is down the same dirt track. Rock-End Manor HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%252079; mptremph@sancharnet.in; s/d ₹5028/ 5628; a) Another gorgeous colonial-era build-

ing, whitewashed Rock-End is perched above the parched fairways of the army golf course. Spacious rooms have wonderfully high ceilings, and furnishings are luxurious with quality upholstery and framed paintings. There are also great views to be had from seating areas around the covered walkway.

Glen View HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%252533; gview@mptourism.com; s/d ₹2790/ 3290, heritage rooms ₹4190/4690; a) Large,

comfortable AC tents and cottages are dotted around the shaded gardens of a huge colonial-era cottage, which has also been converted to house the luxury ‘heritage’ rooms. Has restaurant and bar. Nandavan Restaurant INDIAN (mains ₹30-90; h9.30am-11pm) An outdoor

restaurant with an interesting take on the concept of a zoo, as monkeys sit outside watching humans eating in a cage. South Indian, Gujarati and thalis.

8 Information

Internet Cafe (Subhash Rd; per hr ₹30; h7am11pm) MP Tourism (%252100; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) Near Jaistamba. Also has kiosk by bus station. State Bank of India ATM (cnr main road & Patel Rd)

8 Getting There & Away

Eight daily buses go to Bhopal (₹140, six hours, 7am–8pm). The two evening ones (7pm to 8pm) are sleepers and carry on to Indore (seat/bed ₹300/350, 12 hours). There are three buses – all nonsleeper – to Nagpur (₹190, eight hours, 8am, 10am and 9pm). The friendly guys at the bus-ticket counter are around from 7am to 9pm.

CENTR AL PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH 8 MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT 8 HMARHI PAC

ÿ Sleeping 11 Evelyn's Own........................................C3 12 Glen View..............................................C3 13 Hotel Highlands ...................................D2 14 Hotel Prateek .......................................B2 15 Hotel Saketh ........................................A2 16 Rock-End Manor..................................C3

JAISTAMBHA AREA

All Bhopal buses, plus some extra local ones, go via Pipariya (₹50, two hours), from where you can catch trains to onward destinations such as Jabalpur and Varanasi without having to go all the way to Bhopal. Train tickets can be bought at the Railway Reservation Oﬃce (h8am-2pm) beside the forlorn Woodlands Adventure Camp. The bus station and train station in Pipariya are next to each other. If you’re coming from Pipariya, shared jeeps to Pachmarhi leave far more frequently than buses and cost the same.

pilgrims for hundreds of years. An undeniable energy pulses through the temples here – perhaps because this is one of Hinduism’s seven sacred cities, or perhaps because the Tropic of Cancer runs through Ujjain. The town is also one of four sites in India which hosts the incredible Kumbh Mela (p1103), during which millions bathe in the Shipra River. It takes place here every 12 years, normally during April and May. The next one is in 2016 (22 April to 21 May). Six years before and after each Kumbh Mela there is a slightly smaller Ardh (Half) Mela. On all other years a smaller festival called Magh Mela is held.

8 Getting Around

A place in a shared jeep costs about ₹150 for a day. Cycling or hiking will give you more freedom.

History

WESTERN MADHYA PRADESH

% 0734 / POP 431,162

Underwhelming at first, Ujjain grows on you the more you explore. The area around the train and bus stations is nothing special, but wander down towards the river ghats, via Ujjain’s maze of alleyways, and you’ll discover an older, more spiritual side to this small town which has been attracting traders and

1 Sights Temples

TEMPLES

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MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH W E S T E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

Ujjain

The Guptas, the Mandu sultans, Maharaja Jai Singh (of Jaipur fame), the Marathas and the Scindias have all had a controlling hand in Ujjain’s long and chequered past, which stretches back to when the city, originally called Avantika, was an important trade stop. When the Scindias moved their capital to Gwalior in 1810, Ujjain’s prominence declined rapidly.

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646

To Chintaman Ganesh Mandir (1.5km) A

the underground chambers can be magical. At nonfestival times, the marble walkways are a peaceful preamble to the subterranean chamber containing one of India’s 12 sacred Shiva shrines known as jyoti linga – naturally occurring lingam believed to derive currents of shakti (creative energies) from within themselves rather than being ritually invested with mantra-shakti by priests. The temple was destroyed by Altamish in 1235 and restored by the Scindias in the 19th century. You may be asked to give a donation, but it’s not compulsory.

Harsiddhi Mandir Built during the Maratha period, this temple enshrines a famous image of goddess Annapurna. At the entrance, two tall blackened stone towers bristling with lamps are a special feature of Maratha art. They add to the spectacle of Navratri (Festival of Nine Nights; Hindu festival leading up to Dussehra) in September/October when filled with oil and ignited.

Ujjain æ Sights 1 Gopal Mandir........................................ B1 2 Harsiddhi Mandir ................................. A1 3 Mahakaleshwar Mandir.......................B2 4 Ram Ghat ............................................. A1 5 Vedh Shala (Observatory)..................B3 ÿ Sleeping 6 Hotel Grand Tower ..............................D2 7 Hotel Pleasure Landmark ...................B2 8 Hotel Rama Krishna ............................C2 ú Eating New Sudama................................ (see 8) 9 Shivam Restaurant..............................B2 Zharokha Restaurant .................. (see 6)

Ram Ghat

647

GHAT

The most central and most popular of Ujjain’s river ghats is best visited at dawn or dusk when the devout chime cymbals and light candles at the water’s edge. People bathe here at all times of the day, though. You can also rent pedal boats (₹10). Vedh Shala (Observatory) HISTORIC BUILDING (Jantar Mantar; admission ₹5; h8am-5.30pm) Uj-

jain has been India’s Greenwich since the 4th century BC and this simple but interesting observatory – now with a huge globe positioned beside its entrance – was built by Maharaja Jai Singh in about 1730. He also built observatories in Jaipur, Delhi, Varanasi and Mathura, but Ujjain’s is the only one still in use. Among the instruments in the small garden are two marble-topped sundials – one a conventional sundial, the other made up of two large quadrants split by a tall staircase whose shadow tells the time.

4 Sleeping

Hotel Rama Krishna HOTEL $ (%2553017; www.hotelramakrishna.co.in; Subhash Rd; s/d without bathroom ₹150/200, s ₹2003400, d ₹300-400, d with AC from ₹700; a) This

cleaner-than-average Subhash Rd hotel has rooms with white-tiled floors, TV and sit-down flush toilet.

Hotel Pleasure Landmark HOTEL $$ (%2557867; 98 Mahakal Marg; r ₹700-800, with AC ₹1200; a) Great location from which to

launch yourself into the old town, rooms here are small but smart and clean and come with decent quality wooden furniture. Hotel Grand Tower HOTEL $$ (%2553699; 1 Vikram Marg; s/d from ₹800/900, with AC from ₹1200/1400; a) Large, clean,

well-kept rooms, excellent service and a very good restaurant.

5 Eating Thali restaurants line Subhash Rd and are good value (from ₹20) but have no English menus and don’t open before around 9.30am.

WESTERNPR MADHYA PRCHHAT ADESHTISGARH SLEEPINU G LJ JEAE IPNI N G MADHYA ADESH & S

Gopal Mandir The Scindias built this marble-spired temple, a magnificent example of Maratha architecture, in the 19th century. Muslim pillagers originally stole the sanctum’s silver-plated doors from Somnath Temple in Gujarat (p698) and installed them in Ghazni, Afghanistan. Mohammed Shah Abdati later took them to Lahore (in present-day Pakistan), before Mahadji Scindia brought them back here. The alleyways north, east and west of here are wonderful places to get lost in.

Chintaman Ganesh Mandir This temple is believed to be of considerable antiquity – the assembly hall’s artistically carved pillars date to the Parmara period. Worshippers flock here to pray to the deity, whose name means ‘assurer of freedom from worldly anxieties’. It’s an easy cycle from the centre, mostly through farmland. Pass the observatory and keep to the left.

648

oShivam Restaurant

INDIAN $

(mains ₹50-80; h7am-11pm) This friendly

and very popular veg restaurant in the basement below Hotel Satyam has a fabulous menu with detailed descriptions of every dish. Choose from tandoori kebabs, a selection of paneer dishes, koftas and a variety of stuffed vegetables, or just come for the south Indian breakfasts. Also does thalis (₹35 to ₹70). Zharokha Restaurant INDIAN (mains ₹50-90; h7am-3.30pm & 7-11.15pm)

The vegetarian restaurant at Hotel Grand Tower serves excellent Kashmiri, Punjabi and Chinese food and has 1st-floor balcony seating. The service is friendly here too. New Sudama INDIAN (mains ₹40-60; h8.30am-11pm) The best

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH W E S T E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

of the many Subhash Rd offerings, this clean restaurant attached to Hotel Rama Krishna has comfy booth seating and decent quality Indian food.

8 Information

There are ATMs all over Ujjain, including two next to Hotel Grand Tower, but the nearest place to change money is Indore. Cyber Cafe (per hr ₹10; h10am-10pm) Walk up Vikram Marg, turn left at the roundabout and it’s on your right in a basement. You can you hook up your laptop. DF.com (per hr ₹15; h10.30am-10pm) Only internet cafe we could find in the old part of town.

8 Getting There & Away

Bus Services from the bus stand include the following. For Mandu or Maheshwar, change at Dhar.

BHOPAL ₹130, five hours, two daily, 6am and

7.30am

DHAR ₹80, four hours, four daily, 5.30am,

8.30am, 9am and 9.45am

INDORE ₹38, two hours, every 15 minutes,

5.30am to 11pm

OMKARESHWAR ₹91, four hours, four daily,

6am, 8am, 11am and 4pm

Train The two direct trains to Gwalior and Agra arrive at stupid o’clock so you’re better oﬀ going via Bhopal which, like Indore, is served by more than 10 daily trains. See the boxed text (p648) for details.

8 Getting Around

A cycle rickshaw from the train station to Ram Ghat costs ₹20, while a tonga costs ₹30. You can also rent dirt-cheap bicycles (per hr/day ₹3/15; h7am-11pm) from a place behind the bus stand. Handy Bus No 9 (₹4) runs between Jawahar Marg in the old town and Chintaman Ganesh Mandir, via the train station and the clock tower. Prices from the prepaid autorickshaw booth outside the train station include: RAM GHAT ₹30 CHINTAMAN GANESH MANDIR ₹100 return FOUR-HOUR TOUR AROUND UJJAIN ₹300

Indore % 0731 / POP 1.52 MILLION

The Holkar dynasty left behind some fine buildings here, and you’ll find some cool cafes thanks to the city’s ever-burgeoning coffee culture, but Indore – Madhya Pradesh’s business powerhouse – is primarily used by tourists as the gateway to Omkareshwar (p651),Maheshwar (p653) or Mandu (p654).

HANDY TRAINS FROM UJJAIN DURATION (HR) DEPARTURE

DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)*

Bhopal

19656 AII Bhopal Express

120/292/394

3½

7.50am

Delhi

12919 Malwa Express

333/881/1199

2.07pm

Indore

18234 Narmada Pas Express 80/210/279

8.40am

Jaipur

12465 Ranthambore Express

135/247/502/638**

8½

8.05am

305/801/1087

5.35pm

Mumbai (Central) 12962 Avantika Express *Fares are sleeper/3AC/2AC **2nd class/sleeper/chair car/3AC

1 Sights

a very popular sweet shop on the ground floor. Note, the cheapest rooms don’t have windows.

Built between 1886 and 1921, Lal Bagh Palace is the finest building left by the Holkar dynasty. Replicas of the Buckingham Palace gates creak at the entrance to the 28-hectare garden, where, close to the palace, there is a statue of Queen Victoria. The palace is dominated by European styles, with baroque and rococo dining rooms, an English library with leather armchairs, a Renaissance sitting room with ripped sofas and a Palladian queen’s bedroom. An autorickshaw from the town centre to here is about ₹40.

Maasharda Hotel HOTEL $ (%4006562; Sarvate bus stand 4 Nasia Rd; r ₹300, with AC ₹600; a) Good-value, clean choice

Central Museum MUSEUM (AB Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹10/100, camera/video ₹50/200; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Housed in

ciary at this branch of the excellent Indian Coﬀee House set inside the grounds of the commissioner’s oﬃce and near the district court. As always, a top spot for breakfast, with dosa and particularly good idli sharing the menu with eggs and toast.

Lal Bagh Palace MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Gandhi Hall

HISTORIC BUILDING

This Gothic town hall, built in 1904 and originally called King Edward’s Hall, stands incongruously on MG Rd like a ghost of the Independence era.

4 Sleeping

Hotel Neelam HOTEL $ (%2466001; 33/2 Patel Bridge Corner; s ₹300350, d ₹400-475, s/d with AC ₹550/750; a) One

of the few budget places near the train and bus stations that accepts foreigners, friendly Neelam is very well run and has simple but clean rooms oﬀ a central courtyard.

Hotel Shreemaya HOTEL $$$ (%2515555; shree@shreemaya.com; 12 RNT Marg; s/d from ₹1850/2500; aiW) This profession-

ally run place is quality throughout. Modern rooms with wide-screen TV and coﬀee maker are in immaculate condition and there’s free wi-fi in all of them. Rates include breakfast.

Hotel Chanakya HOTEL $$ (%2704497; RNT Marg, Chhawni Chowk; s/d from ₹500/600, with AC from ₹800/900; a) Rooms

here are functional rather than flash, but staﬀ members are friendly and it’s right in the heart of an interesting section of the old town. There’s a restaurant upstairs and

near the bus stand. This hotel is sometimes reluctant to take foreign guests, but smile sweetly when you arrive and you should be OK.

5 Eating & Drinking

Indian Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN $ (MG Rd; mains ₹30-80, thalis ₹60-75; h7.30am10pm) Drink coﬀee (₹10) with Indore’s judi-

Shree Chotiwala INDIAN $ (Nath Mandir Rd; mains ₹40-75; h10.30am-11pm)

This very popular restaurant has comfy booth seating and a family-friendly veg menu that includes Jain dishes and a children’s thali. An excellent choice for an evening meal.

Shreemaya Celebration BAKERY $$ (Tuko Ganj; mains ₹35-115; h7.30am-10.30pm)

This clean and modern bakery next to Hotel Shreemaya sells pastries, sandwiches, cookies and cakes, as well as a handful of mains, including South Indian, Chinese and pizza. Also has juices, shakes and coﬀee, making this a good pick for breakfast if you can’t be bothered to trek to Indian Coﬀee House.

Apna INDIAN $ (Sarvate bus stand; mains ₹40-70, beer from ₹105; h10am-11.30pm) This 50-year-old bar and

restaurant right opposite the bus stand serves up delicious veg and meat dishes from an all-Indian menu as well as the usual selection of beers and cheap whiskeys. Mr Beans CAFE (MG Rd; coffee from ₹27; h9am-11pm) Slick

Buddy’s Cafe CAFE (MG Rd; mains ₹45-80, coffee ₹20; h2-11pm)

cafe housed in a charming 100-year-old colonial-era building. There are snacks, the coffee’s excellent and you can even puff on a sheesha pipe (₹225) if that sort of thing takes your fancy.

Popular with young Indorians who come for the atmosphere rather than the quality

WESTERNPR MADHYA PRCHHAT ADESHTISGARH S I G H T S ISNI G MADHYA ADESH & DH O TRSE

another fine Holkar building, this museum has one of Madhya Pradesh’s best collections of medieval and premedieval Hindu sculptures, along with tools, weaponry and copper-engraved land titles. Skirmishes took place here during the First War of Independence (Indian Uprising) – the well in the garden was poisoned during the struggle.

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of the food and drinks, Buddy’s has outdoor seating in a large roadside front garden and serves OK food as well as juices, shakes and instant coffee. Sheesha pipes (₹200) are also available. $$

Good-quality coffee, wi-fi (₹40) and DVDs shown on a giant screen. Music, though, is often deafeningly loud and sometimes of the karaoke variety. Oh, and yes, you guessed it; there are sheesha pipes here too (₹250).

Shopping

Mrignayani HANDICRAFTS (165 MG Rd; h11am-1.30pm & 2.30-8pm MonSat) Fixed-price government emporium

with two floors crammed with handicrafts from across the state, including leather toy animals – an Indore speciality.

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8 Information

ATMs are all over town. 007 Cyber Gallery (Silver Mall; per hr ₹10; h9am-11pm) Internet cafe serving drinks and snacks. Bombay Hospital (% 4077000; www.bombay hospitalindore.com; Indore Ring Rd) Indore’s best general hospital. Main post office (AB Rd; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Royal Chemist (MY Hospital Rd; h9.15am10pm) State Bank of India (AB Rd; h10.30am4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2.30pm Sat) Changes travellers cheques and cash, and has an ATM. Wintech Cyber (1st fl; per hr ₹10; h11am-10pm) Internet cafe set back from Ushaganj Main Rd.

Indore æ Sights 1 Central Museum ..................................D4 2 Gandhi Hall (Town Hall) ......................B2 ÿ Sleeping 3 Hotel Chanakya ...................................C4 4 Hotel Neelam .......................................B3 5 Hotel Shreemaya.................................C3 6 Maasharda Hotel .................................B3 ú Eating 7 Apna .....................................................B3 8 Indian Coffee House............................B2 9 Shree Chotiwala ..................................C2 10 Shreemaya Celebration ......................C3

Information 14 Royal Chemist......................................C3 Transport 15 Air India ................................................ D1 16 Jet Airways........................................... D1 17 Sarwate Bus Stand..............................B3 18 Shared Minivans to Gangwal Bus Stand..........................................B2 19 Train Reservation Office .....................B3

8 Getting There & Away

Air Air India (%2431595/6; Racecourse Rd; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) flies daily to Mumbai and Delhi (both from around ₹3000). Jet Airways (%2544590; Racecourse Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) has daily flights to Mumbai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Ahmedabad and Raipur. Bus Bus services from Sarwate bus stand include those listed below. For Maheshwar, change at Dhamnod. BHOPAL ₹125, five hours, every 30 minutes, 5am to midnight. DHAMNOD ₹50, three hours, every 30 minutes, 7am to 5pm GWALIOR seat/sleeper ₹200/250, 12 hours, three daily, 7pm, 8pm and 9pm OMKARESHWAR ₹125, three hours, frequent, 7am to 4.30pm PACHMARHI seat/sleeper ₹200/250, 12 hours, four daily, 5pm, 6pm, 7pm and 8pm

For Mandu, catch a bus from Gangwal bus stand to Dhar (₹45, three hours, 6am to 10.30pm) from where you can change for Mandu (₹20, one hour, last bus 7pm). Shared minivans (₹10) go between Gangwal bus stand and the centre. Private autorickshaws charge around ₹40.

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Taxi Private taxi firms on the service road parallel to Valiash Nagar charge around ₹1500 return to Mandu and the same price for a trip incorporating Omkareshwar and Maheshwar. Train There are six daily trains to Bhopal and more than 10 to Ujjain – see boxed text, p 652. The train reservation oﬃce (h8am-8pm MonSat, 8am-2pm Sun) is 200m east of the train station.

8 Getting Around

The airport is 9km from the city. Allow 45 minutes. Autorickshaws charge around ₹100, taxis ₹150 to ₹200. Autorickshaw journeys around Indore cost ₹20 to ₹30.

Omkareshwar % 07280 / POP 6616

One of a number of holy places with ghats referred to as a ‘mini Varanasi’, this Omshaped island attracts pilgrims in large numbers and has become a popular chill-out destination on the backpacker trail. The controversial dam (p1153) has changed the look of Omkareshwar considerably, but the island has retained its spiritual vibe and remains a pleasant place to stay. Much activity takes place oﬀ the island, at a market square known as Getti Chowk (from where the old bridge crosses to the island), and on Mamaleshwar Rd, which links Getti Chowk to the bus stand. If you continue straight along Mamaleshwar Rd from the bus stand, without turning left to Getti Chowk, you’ll find steps leading down to the ghats (where you can cross the river on boats for ₹5). Beyond is the new bridge and the dam. The path leading from the old bridge to Shri Omkar Mandhata temple is the hub of the island.

1 Sights & Activities Shri Omkar Mandhata

HINDU TEMPLE

Tourists can rub shoulders with sadhus in the island’s narrow lanes, browse the colourful stalls selling chillums and souvenir linga,

WESTERNPR MADHYA PRCHHAT ADESHTISGARH 8 MADHYA ADESH & 8 M K A R E S H WA R O

ü Drinking 11 Buddy's Cafe........................................D2 12 Monkey Cafe ........................................D3 13 Mr Beans ..............................................D2

UJJAIN ₹40, two hours, frequent, 6am to 10pm

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HANDY TRAINS FROM INDORE DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)*

DURATION (HR) DEPARTURE

Bhopal

12919 Malwa Express

161/397/529

Mumbai

12962 Avantika Express

320/847/1151

3.50pm

Delhi

12919 Malwa Express

350/927/1262

16½

12.25pm

Ujjain

12919 Malwa Express

140/240/309

12.25pm

*Fares are sleeper/3AC/2AC

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH W E S T E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

or join pilgrims attending the thrice daily puja (prayer) at Shri Omkar Mandhata. This cave-like temple, which houses the only shapeless jyothi lingam (12 important shrines dedicated to Shiva), is one of many Hindu and Jain monuments on the island.

of all the activity going on below. It’s hard to find, though. Cross the old bridge from Getti Chowk and turn right. After about 100m, you may spot a tiny sign for the guesthouse that leads you vaguely in the right direction, up a lot of steps. Keep asking the way as you climb.

Other Temples

Maharaja Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%271237; r ₹150-600, without bathroom ₹70)

HINDU TEMPLES

From the old bridge, instead of turning right to Shri Omkar Mandhata, you can also head left and walk up the 287 steps to the 11thcentury Gaudi Somnath Temple, from where you can descend the hill to the northern tip of the island, where sadhus bathe in the confluence of the holy Narmada and Keveri Rivers. You can climb the narrow, inner staircase of the temple or just sit and watch the many langur monkeys that play round here. Nearby, is a 30m-tall Shiva statue, built by the Raj Rajeshwari Seva Sahsrhan Trust. The path passing in front of the statue can be followed back to the ghats (45 minutes), up and down hills and past a number of temple ruins. Don’t miss the beautifully sculpted Siddhanatha Temple (left at the T-junction in the pathway) with marvellous elephant carvings around its base.

4 Sleeping & Eating oManu Guest House

GUESTHOUSE $

(%9826749004; r ₹200, without bathroom ₹100)

Give it a couple of days and you’ll feel like part of the family that runs this wonderfully welcoming guesthouse. Rooms are simple but very well looked after and bathrooms are shared only, but kept clean. There’s no restaurant, but your hosts will whip up a delicious thali (₹50) if you ask in advance. The other great thing about this guesthouse is its location. This is pretty much the only place to stay on the island itself that isn’t a dharamsala (pilgrim’s rest house) and it’s perched high above the old bridge meaning that it’s lovely and quiet, but has great views

Like something out of an adventure book, this 600-year-old stone building, accessed via a small path off Getti Chowk, is slowly being swallowed up by the undergrowth on the cliffs overlooking the river. Its nine extremely basic rooms are all in various states of disrepair, and come with tap-and-bucket showers and squat toilets only, but each has its own unique character – a wooden doorway here, a carved alcove there. Room 1, with family portraits on the walls and two doorways that lead out to private clifftop river views, is certainly worth asking for. Ganesh Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (%271370; r ₹150-200) Off the path leading

down to the ghats from Mamaleshwar Rd, friendly Ganesh has neat and tidy budget rooms and a peaceful ambience. Its shaded garden restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹130) overlooking the ghats has a multicuisine menu including Western breakfasts.

Brahmin Bhojanalaya INDIAN $ (Mamaleshwar Rd; mains ₹30-70; h8am-10pm)

There are a number of no-nonsense dhabas (snack bars) in Omkareshwar, both on the island and on the mainland, especially in Getti Chowk. None has an English sign, although this one does at least have an English menu. It’s on your left as you walk up from the bus stand, 50m before the road bears left towards Getti Chowk. You may have to ask for help to locate it, but once you’re inside you’ll find a decent selection of tasty veg dishes.

Lassi & Juice Centre CAFE $ (Getti Chowk; drinks ₹10-30; h7am-11pm) A great

place to sit and while away time with some people-watching, this pocket-sized cafe on Getti Chowk does magnificent lassis and delicious fruit salads as well as breakfasts and snacks.

8 Information

Some telephone stalls on Mamaleshwar Rd and on the island have a computer and a stuttering internet connection (per hr ₹50). A State Bank of India ATM (Mamaleshwar Rd) is near the bus stand. There’s a pharmacy (h9am-9pm) diagonally opposite.

8 Getting There & Away

HINDU TEMPLES

From the ramparts of the fort you can see boats (return trip per person/boat ₹10/100) and incense smoke drifting across the water to Baneshwar Temple, located on a tiny island in the middle of the river. Descending to the dhobi-wallahs (clothes washers) at the ghats, you pass two impressive stone temples. The one on the right, guarded by stone Holkar sentries and a frieze of elephants, houses more images of Ahilyabai and two candle towers, lit during festivals. Rehwa Society HANDICRAFTS WORKSHOP (%273203; www.rehwasociety.org; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon, shop open daily) Between the palace

Maheshwar % 07283 / POP 19,649

The friendly, peaceful town of Maheshwar has long held spiritual significance – it’s mentioned in the Mahabharata and Ramayana (p1108) under its old name, Mahishmati, and still draws sadhus and yatris (pilgrims) to its ancient ghats and temples on the holy Narmada River. The town enjoyed a golden age in the late 18th century under Holkar queen Ahilyabai, who built the palace in the towering fort and many other monuments. Away from the ghats and historic buildings, Maheshwar’s colourful streets house old wooden doorways and overhanging balconies fronting brightly painted local homes. The river, and the fort which overlooks it, is about 1.5km south of the bus stand. Leaving the bus stand, walk straight over the crossroads and continue past the internet cafe and ATM until you reach a floodlit roundabout. Take the left fork to get to the ghats via Hansa Heritage hotel, Labboo’s Café and the fort. Take the right fork to head directly to the ghats.

1 Sights & Activities Fort & Palace

Temples

HISTORIC SITE

Apart from the holy river itself, the most treasured part of the town is its 16th-century fort.

and the two stone temples a small doorway announces the NGO Rehwa Society, a craft cooperative where profits are ploughed back into the education, housing and welfare of the weavers. A local school, run entirely by Rehwa, is behind the workshop. Maheshwar saris are famous for their unique weave and simple, geometric patterns, often using stripes. You can watch the weavers at work and buy shawls, saris, scarves and fabrics (from ₹450) made from silk, cotton and wool. Volunteers with some design background are always welcome, as are those interested in volunteer teaching at the school.

4 Sleeping & Eating oLabboo’s Café

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GUESTHOUSE, CAFE $$

(%09229125267; r ₹1500) Not only a delight-

ful cafe in a shaded courtyard (open 8am to 8pm), but also a place with six wonderful rooms to stay in. All are diﬀerent but each is decorated with care and attention, and two of them actually form part of the fort’s outer wall – the upper one coming with its own fort-wall veranda. The cafe menu is snacks only (₹10 to ₹40), but staﬀ will whip up a delicious, unlimited thali (₹100) if you ask nicely. They also organise river trips (per hour per boat ₹200) here.

WESTERNPR MADHYA PRCHHAT ADESHTISGARH 8 MADHYA ADESH & 8 A H E S H WA R M

Services from the bus stand include: DHAMNOD (for Mandu, via Oonera) ₹55, 3½ hours, regular, 6am to 5pm INDORE ₹60, two hours, regular, 6am to 6pm MAHESHWAR ₹45, three hours, regular, 6am to 4.30pm UJJAIN ₹100, four hours, four daily, 6am, 11.30am, 2.30pm and 6pm

The huge, imposing ramparts were built by Emperor Akbar, while the Maheshwar Palace and several temples within its grounds were added during the reign of Holkar queen Ahilyabai (r 1767-95). The palace is part public courtyard, part posh hotel. Housed within the courtyard, among a collection of rusty matchlocks and dusty palanquins, is a glass-cased statue of Ahilyabai, treated with the reverence of a shrine. Nearby is a Shiva temple with a golden lingam – the starting point for palanquin processions on Ahilyabai’s birthday (see p611) and Dussehra.

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Hansa Heritage HOTEL $$ (%273296; r ₹1050; a) Despite the name, this

place is almost brand new, but it’s been built with style and quality throughout. Smart, modern rooms have a rustic feel with mud and woodchip interior walls, antiquelooking wooden furniture and attractive coloured-glass window panes. Bathrooms are also very modern and spotlessly clean.

Ahilya Fort HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%273329, Delhi 01141551575; www.ahilyafort.com; r Indian ₹7000-9000, foreigner ₹12,000-16,500; ais) This superior-quality heritage hotel

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH W E S T E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

is owned by Prince Shivaji Rao Holka, a direct descendent of Ahilyabai, and forms part of Maheshwar Palace. Rooms are indeed palatial and some come with fabulous river views, while lush gardens house exotic fruit trees, vegetable patches and a lovely swimming pool. Rates include all meals as well as boat trips on the river. Booking ahead is pretty much essential. Nonguests who fancy a splurge can eat lunch or dinner here. The sumptuous menu is set, as is the ₹1500 per person price. You’ll need to book your place at a table a few hours in advance and pay a deposit. Akash Deep GUESTHOUSE $ (Kila Rd; r ₹200-500) The best budget option

in town, friendly Akash has clean, spacious rooms, some with TV. Checkout time is 10am. Next door to Hansa Heritage.

8 Information

Internet cafe (per hr ₹25; h10am-9pm)

8 Getting There & Away

There are regular buses to Omkareshwar (₹45, three hours, 9am to 5.30pm) and Dhamnod (₹10, 30 minutes, 7am to 11pm) where you can change for Indore (₹55, two hours, regular, last bus 9pm). For Mandu, first head to Dhamnod then take a Dhar-bound bus as far as a forked junction in the main road, known as Oonera (₹25, two hours). From there flag down a bus (₹10, 30 minutes) or hitch for the final 14km to Mandu.

Mandu % 07292 / POP 8550 / ELEV 634M

Perched on top of a pleasantly green, thinly forested 20-sq-km plateau, picturesque Mandu is home to some of India’s finest examples of Afghan architecture. The area is littered with palaces, tombs, monuments and mosques, all within easy cycling distance of each other. Some cling to the edge

of ravines, others are beside lakes, while Rupmati’s Pavilion, the most romantic of them all, sits majestically at the far end of the plateau, overlooking the vast plains below. History

Raja Bhoj, of Bhopal fame, founded Mandu as a fortress retreat in the 10th century before it was conquered by the Muslim rulers of Delhi in 1304. When the Mughals captured Delhi in 1401, the Afghan Dilawar Khan, governor of Malwa, set up his own little kingdom and Mandu’s golden age began. Although Dilawar Khan established Mandu as an independent kingdom, it was his son, Hoshang Shah, who shifted the capital from Dhar to Mandu and raised it to its greatest splendour. In 1526, Bahadur Shah of Gujarat conquered Mandu, only to be ousted in 1534 by the Mughal Humayun, who in turn lost the kingdom to Mallu Khan, an oﬃcer of the Khalji dynasty. Ten more years of feuds and invasions saw Baz Bahadur eventually emerge in the top spot, but in 1561 he fled Mandu to avoid facing Akbar’s advancing troops. After Akbar added Mandu to the Mughal empire, it kept a considerable degree of independence, until taken by the Marathas in 1732. The capital of Malwa was then shifted back to Dhar, and the slide in Mandu’s fortunes that had begun with the absconding of Baz Bahadur became a plummet.

1 Sights & Activities There are three main groups of ruins: the Royal Enclave, the Village Group and the Rewa Kund Group. Each requires its own separate ticket. All other sights are free. Royal Enclave HISTORIC SITE (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk Sat-Thu) These ruins are the only ones fenced oﬀ into one single complex. There’s a Publication Centre (h10am-6pm) selling guide-

books by the entrance and a shaded garden canteen selling tea, coﬀee and snacks by Hindola Mahal.

Jahaz Mahal PALACE Also called the Ship Palace, this is the most famous building in Mandu. Built on a narrow strip of land between Munja and Kapur Tanks, with a small upper storey like a ship’s bridge (use your imagination), it’s far longer (120m) than it is wide (15m).

Ghiyas-ud-din, who is said to have had a harem of 15,000 maidens, constructed its lookouts, scalloped arches, airy rooms and beautiful pleasure pools. Taveli Mahal MUSEUM These former stables now house a small Archaeological Museum (h8am-6pm), which features a handful of artefacts found here including 11th- and 12th-century sculptures as well as stone slabs with Quranic text dating back to the 15th century. Hindola Mahal PALACE Just north of Ghiyas’ stately pleasure dome is Hindola Mahal (Swing Palace), so-called because the slope of the walls is supposed to create the impression that they are swaying. While it doesn’t give that impression, it is an eye-catching design nonetheless.

Mosque of Dilawar Khan MOSQUE Built by Dilawar Khan in 1405, this mosque is Mandu’s earliest Islamic building. There are many Hindu elements to the architecture, notably the pillars and ceilings inside, which was typical for this era. Champa Baodi HISTORIC SITE So-called because its water supposedly smelt as sweet as the champak flower, Champa Baodi is a step-well surrounded by subterranean vaulted chambers, some of which you can explore. Turkish Bath BATH-HOUSE Stars and octagons perforate the domed roofs of this tiny hammam, which had hot and cold water and a hypocaust (under-floor heated) sauna. Village Group HISTORIC SITE (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk)

This group, located by the bus stand in the centre of the village, contains three monuments. One ticket, which you buy at the entrance to Jama Masjid, covers all three:

Hoshang’s Tomb TOMB Reputed to be India’s oldest marble building, this imposing tomb is crowned with a crescent thought to have been imported from Persia or Mesopotamia. Inside, light filters into the echoing dome through stone jalis (carved lattice screens), intended to cast an appropriately subdued light on the tombs. An inscription records Shah Jahan sending his architects – including Ustad Hamid, who worked on the Taj Mahal – here in 1659 to pay their respects to the tomb’s builders. Ashrafi Mahal TOMB Mohammed Shah originally built his tomb as a madrasa (Islamic college), before converting and extending it. The overambitious design later collapsed – notably the seven-storey circular tower of victory. The building is an empty shell, but intricate Islamic pillarwork can be seen at the top of its great stairway. Rewa Kund Group

HISTORIC SITE

A pleasant 4km cycle south of the village, past Sagar Talao, brings you to two more

palace ruins (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk). Tickets for both should be

bought from outside Baz Bahadur’s Palace.

Baz Bahadur’s Palace PALACE Baz Bahadur was the last independent ruler of Mandu. His palace, constructed around 1509, is beside the Rewa Kund Tank where a water lift at the northern end supplied water to the palace. A curious mix of Rajasthani and Mughal styles, it was actually built decades before Baz Bahadur came to power. Rupmati’s Pavilion MONUMENT Standing at the top of a cliﬀ plunging 366m to the plains, Rupmati’s Pavilion has a subtle beauty unmatched by the other monuments – and some of the dinkiest stone staircases you’ll ever climb. According to Malwa legends, the musicloving Baz Bahadur built it to persuade a beautiful Hindu singer, Rupmati, to move

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WESTERNPR MADHYA PRCHHAT ADESHTISGARH S I G H T S &M AC E ST I V I T I E S MADHYA ADESH & S IA GNHTDTIUSV I&T IAC

House & Shop of Gada Shah HOUSE The house is within the enclave but the shop is outside on the road to Delhi Gate. As the buildings’ size and internal workmanship suggest, their owner was more than a shopkeeper. His name, which means ‘beggar master’, is thought to identify him as Rajput chief Medini Ray, a powerful minion of the sultans. The ‘shop’ was a warehouse for saﬀron and musk, imported and sold at a handsome profit when there were enough wealthy people to shop here.

Jama Masjid MOSQUE Entered by a flight of steps leading to a 17mhigh domed porch, this disused red-stone mosque dominates the village of Mandu. Hoshang Shah begun its construction around 1406, basing it on the great Omayyad Mosque in Damascus, Syria, and Mohammed Khalji completed it in 1454. Despite its plain design, it’s reckoned to be the finest and largest example of Afghan architecture in India.

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here from her home on the plains. From its terrace and domed pavilions Rupmati could gaze down at the distant glint of the sacred Narmada River. In fact, the pavilion was built in two or three phases and the style of its arches and pillars suggest it was completed 100 years before Rupmati’s time. Nonetheless, the love story is a subject of Malwa folk songs – not least because of its tragic ending. Lured by tales of Rupmati’s beauty, Akbar marched on the fort and Baz Bahadur fled, leaving his lover to poison herself. This place is simply gorgeous at sunset.

Nil Kanth Palace

HISTORIC SITE

If you’re looking for a great reason to cycle out into the countryside, consider visiting this unusual former palace turned temple. It stands at the head of a ravine, on the site of an earlier Shiva shrine – its name means God with Blue Throat – and is now once again used as a place of worship. A stream built by one of Akbar’s governors trickles through a delightful spiral channel and is usually filled with scented water, giving the palace a sweet aroma. To get here cycle south along Main Rd for less than 1km until you see a large white water tower. Turn right

Mandu æ Sights Archaeological Museum ............(see 15) 1 Ashrafi Mahal.......................................D5 2 Champa Baodi .....................................B3 3 Hindola Mahal (Swing Palace)............B3 4 Hoshang's Tomb .................................C5 5 House of Gada Shah............................C3 6 Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace) .................C3 7 Jain Temple..........................................D5 8 Jama Masjid .........................................D5 9 Kapur Tank...........................................C3 10 Lohani Caves........................................A5 11 Mosque of Dilawar Khan .....................B2 12 Publication Centre...............................C3 13 Rama Temple.......................................D4 14 Shop of Gada Shah..............................C3 15 Taveli Mahal .........................................C3 16 Turkish Bath.........................................B2

ú Eating 20 Relax Point ...........................................D4 21 Shivani Restaurant ..............................C4 Information 22 Royal Enclave Ticket Office ................C4 Village Group Ticket Office ......... (see 8)

here and follow the road as it twists and turns past villages all the way to Nil Kanth (about 2km). You can continue from here, past more remote villages, for about another kilometre to reach the still-standing gateway of the now ruined Songarh Fort, from where there are more great views. Lohani Caves

CAVE

Local guides seem unsure as to just how old these sculpted caves are but some insist that a now-blocked tunnel leads from the caves to Dhar, 35km away. One thing is certain, they command a fabulous view of the ravine below, which you can hike down to from here. Jain Temple

JAIN TEMPLE

Entered by a turquoise doorway, this complex is a splash of kitsch among the Islamic monuments. The richly decorated temples feature marble, silver and gold tirthankars with jade eyes, and behind them is a theme park–like museum with a walk-on replica of Shatrunjaya (p690), the hilltop temple com-

657

Saturday Haat MARKET (h10am-dusk) This colourful weekly market,

behind Jama Masjid, is similar to ones held all over the Bastar region, a tribal stronghold of Chhattisgarh (p667). Adivasis (tribespeople) walk kilometres to come here to buy and sell goods ranging from mountains of red chillies to dried mahuwa, a flower used to make a potent liquor of the same name.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Rama Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%263251; bus stand; r ₹250) Made up of a row

of simple rooms oﬀ a courtyard that leads to the small Rama Temple, accommodation here is slightly cleaner and more spacious than at nearby Tourist Resthouse. Some bathrooms have showers and sit-down loos, but this is still very basic stuﬀ. There’s no English sign. Just walk through an archway between two shops by the bus stand. Reception is beyond the rooms, inside the temple grounds.

Hotel Rupmati HOTEL $$ (%263270; Main Rd; r from ₹700, with AC ₹1400; a) Clean, colourful cottages, with large

bathrooms, are set around gardens on the edge of a cliﬀ. Some come with exceptional views of the valley below. AC rooms can be had for ₹900 if you don’t use the AC. Has a restaurant.

Malwa Resort HOTEL $$ (%263235; www.mptourism.com; Main Rd; r ₹1390, with AC ₹2090; as) This family-friendly MP

Tourism property, 2km south of the village, has large gardens containing comfortable cottages, children’s play areas, tree swings and a pool (which isn’t always open). There are also pleasant views of the neighbouring lake Sagar Talao.

Tourist Resthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%263264; Jahaz Mahal Rd; r ₹150) This row of

seven identical and extremely basic rooms with squat toilets and tap-and-bucket showers is the cheapest place in town. Rooms come with small, private verandas, but they’re right on the roadside (albeit it’s not a very busy road).

Shivani Restaurant INDIAN $ (Main Rd; mains ₹35-90; h8.30am-10pm) The

most popular place to eat in town, this large,

WESTERNPR MADHYA PRCHHAT ADESHTISGARH SLEEPINM GLA&ENEEDPAT N G& E AT I N G MADHYA ADESH & S UI NI G

ÿ Sleeping 17 Hotel Rupmati......................................C3 18 Rama Guesthouse ...............................D4 19 Tourist Resthouse ...............................D4

plex at Palitana in Gujarat. In the colourful murals, bears devour sinners’ arms, crocodiles chew their heads, and demons saw one evil character in half, lengthways.

no-nonsense diner with plastic tables and chairs has an excellent menu that includes a range of thalis (₹50 to ₹110) plus local specialities such as Mandu kofta (dumplings in a mild sauce). South Indian breakfasts are also available, as are lassis and coﬀee.

for Maheshwar (₹10, 30 minutes, last bus 11pm) or Omkareshwar (₹55, 3½ hours, last bus 7pm). If doing this, it’s quicker to get oﬀ 14km before Dhar at a junction called Oonera (₹10, 30 minutes) from where you can flag down Dhamnod-bound buses.

Relax Point INDIAN $ (Main Rd; snacks ₹6-40; h8.30am-9.30pm) A vil-

8 Getting Around

lage shop, gathering point and restaurantcafe rolled into one. The menu is limited to snacks such as samosas and parathas but this is an OK place for a lazy chai break.

Shopping

Roopayan HANDICRAFTS (Main Rd; h9am-7pm) Next to Malwa Resort,

8 Information

The only internet cafe (Main Rd; per hr ₹50; h7am-10pm) has just one terminal. There’s a small pharmacy (h8am-9.30pm) next door, while the post oﬃce (%263222; Main Rd; h9am-5pm) is further south. There’s nowhere to change money. Malwa Retreat can help arrange local guides (₹200 to ₹500).

8 Getting There & Away

There are two direct buses to Indore (₹80, 3½ hours, 9am and 3.30pm), one to Ujjain (₹96, six hours, 6am) and regular services to Dhar (₹25, one hour, 6am to 6pm), where you can change for buses to Dhamnod (₹40, two hours), then, in turn,

EASTERN MADHYA PRADESH Jabalpur % 0761 / POP 1.1 MILLION

Domestic tourists mostly come here to visit Marble Rocks, an attractive river gorge nearby, but for foreigners this industrial city of chowks and working men’s taverns is used mainly as a launchpad for the big tiger parks – Kanha (p661), Bandhavgarh (p662) and Pench (p664). Most of the action takes place north of the railway line, in the dusty lanes of the Old Bazaar, along Vined Talkies Rd and as far south as Russell Chowk, which is where most of the hotels are located. The Civil Lines district, south of the train station, is less interesting, but more peaceful.

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MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH E A S T E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

this small shop sells good-quality scarves (from ₹300), shawls (₹800) and bed spreads (₹900), as well as a selection of clothing, all made from material that has been dyed using a block-printing method that is a speciality of the nearby village of Bagh.

Cycling is best, as the terrain is flat, the air clear and the countryside beautiful. Sonu Bicycles (Main Rd; per hr/day ₹10/30; h6am-6pm) is one of a few places that rent bikes. You can tour the monuments in half a day in an autorickshaw (from ₹200).

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1 Sights & Activities

the guys in white suits and fan-tailed hats serve up delicious breakfasts, from dosa and uttapam to French toast and omelettes, and hearty Indian and Chinese mains.

century sculptures from local sites, while upstairs are letters and photographs relating to Mahatma Gandhi and an old-fashioned gallery exploring tribal culture.

Options INDIAN $$ (Vined Talkies Rd; mains ₹40-80; h10am-11pm)

Rani Durgavati Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner ₹10/100, camera/video ₹40/200; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Has a collection of 10th-

4 Sleeping

Lodge Shivalaya HOTEL $ (%2625188; Napier Town; s/d from ₹240/250, r with AC from ₹750) There are loads of hotels around

Russell Chowk but this is the best-value of the lot. Rooms are simple with stone floors, but are clean enough and come with TV and small bathrooms. They also open onto shared balconies that overlook the bustling street below. Twenty-four-hour checkout.

old-fashioned lift leads to comfortable, compact rooms in this modest, well-run midrange hotel. AC rooms are no smarter than non-AC. Has a restaurant and 24-hour checkout.

Kalchuri Residency HOTEL $$ (%2678491; katchuri@mptourism.com; r incl breakfast ₹2090; a) This MP Tourism property,

located in the quieter Civil Lines area just south of the train station, has large, neat and tidy rooms with TV and kettle and clean, spacious bathrooms. Some rooms have private balconies. There’s a restaurant and a bar.

5 Eating & Drinking

Indian Coffee House SOUTH INDIAN $ (Hotel India; coﬀee from ₹10, mains ₹30-130; h7am-10.30pm) As well as good-value coﬀee,

Jabalpur æ Sights 1 Rani Durgavati Museum......................A2 ÿ Sleeping 2 Hotel Sidharth......................................B2 3 Kalchuri Residency..............................D2 4 Lodge Shivalaya...................................B2 ú Eating 5 Indian Coffee House............................ B1 6 Options ................................................. B1 7 Satyam Shivam Sundram...................B2 û Drinking 8 Yogi Bar ................................................ B1

Popular with families, courting couples and 20-somethings, this child-friendly veg restaurant with funky decor serves up good-quality Indian and Chinese cuisine to a backdrop of Indian pop music and Bollywood soundtracks.

Satyam Shivam Sundram INDIAN $$ (Napier Town; mains ₹40-80, thalis from ₹65; h9am-11pm) Staﬀ members here are very

friendly, sometimes annoyingly so, but the veg menu is spot on and includes some generous thalis. Jabalpur is thick with seedy but reasonably harmless drinking dens, many of which are attached to cheap hotels. Yogi Bar (Vined Talkies Rd; beer from ₹75; h10am-10pm) is pretty representative.

8 Information

City Hospital (%2628154; North Civil Lines; h24hr) Modern, private healthcare facility. Cyber Cafe (Russell Chowk; per hr ₹10; h10.30am-10.30pm) Has wi-fi. MP Tourism (%2677690; h7am-8pm) At train station (south entrance). Post office (Residency Rd; h10am-5pm MonFri, 10am-2pm Sat) An unusual 1860s, Englishmade, red post box stands outside the entrance. State Bank of India (%2677777; South Civil Lines; h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Changes American Express travellers cheques and cash, and has ATM; there’s also an ATM at the train station and others around the city.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Kingfisher Airlines (%2603467), at the airport, has a daily flight to Delhi (from ₹4000, 8.55am). Next door, Air India (% 6459333) flies there on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Bus Two daily buses go to Kanha National Park (₹120, 6 hours, 7am and 11am). For Pench Tiger Reserve, take any Nagpur-bound bus as far as Khawasa (₹130, five hours, 7am to 11pm), then take a shared jeep (₹10) for the final 12km. For Bandhavgarh National Park, it’s best to take a direct train to Umaria, but you can also take a bus to Katni (₹62, three hours, every 30 minutes, 4am to 11pm), from where there are trains and buses to Umaria.

E ASTERN PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH S I G H T S &JSAIAC S TIVITIES MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT GBHATTLI VSPIUT &RI EAC

Hotel Sidharth HOTEL $$ (%4007779; hotel_sidharth@hotmail.com; Russell Chowk; s/d ₹495/550, with AC ₹675-995; a) An

659

660

HANDY TRAINS FROM JABALPUR DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

DEPARTURE

Agra

12189 Mahakaushal Express

310/817/1112

6.10pm

Bhopal

11472 Jbp–Bhopal Express

164/430/586

11pm

Delhi

12192 Jbp–NDLS Express

363/966/1316

5.45pm

Kolkata (Howrah)

12322 Kolkata Mail

387/1032/1409

1.30pm

Mumbai (CST)

12321 Howrah–Mumbai Mail

355/944/1286

17½

6.05pm

Raipur

12854 Amarkantak Express

247/638/862

9½

9.30pm

Satna

11705 Jabalpur–Rewa Pass

140/327/430

7.30am

Umaria

18233 Narmada Express

80/262/353

6.40am

Varanasi*

12945 Tapti–Ganga Express

249/645

11.58pm

Fares are sleeper/3AC/2AC; *except Tue & Sat, sleeper/3AC only

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH E A S T E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

Train More than 10 daily trains leave for Satna, but only one (a slow train that leaves at 7.30am) leaves early enough to meet direct bus connections to Khajuraho. If you’re on a later train, though, you should be able to catch a bus from Satna to Panna and change again for Khajuraho. You’ll probably have to change a third time at Bamitha Junction, from where shared jeeps (₹10) can take you the last 11km to Khajuraho. For Bandhavgarh National Park, take a train to Umaria. Also see boxed text, p660. There are three daily trains to Varanasi but they either leave or arrive at an unearthly hour. Other Varanasi trains run at better times, but not every day, so check when you book your ticket.

8 Getting Around

A cycle rickshaw from the train station to Russel Chowk is about ₹20. Autorickshaws are usually double the price.

Around Jabalpur MARBLE ROCKS

Known locally as Bhedaghat, the marble-like magnesium-limestone cliﬀs at this gorge on the holy Narmada River, 22km west of Jabalpur, change colours in diﬀerent lights, from pink to black. They’re particularly impressive by moonlight, and parts are floodlit at night. The trip up the 2km-long gorge is made in a shared motorboat (per person 30/50min

₹21/31; h7am-7pm, full moon 8pm-midnight, closed 15 Jun-15 Oct due to monsoon) from the

jetty at Panchvati Ghat. Alternatively hire a boat (standard/large ₹200/320) to yourself. There’s good swimming at the ghat too, but currents can be strong: take your lead from the locals. For a nice post-boating stroll, and a closer look at village life, carry on up the hill past the ghat entrance and turn right just before Motel Marble Rocks, where you’ll find a tiny path leading past local homes and down towards the gorge. Dhuandhar (Smoke Cascade) is a worthwhile 1.5km-walk uphill from the ghat. Along the way is the much-revered Chausath Yogini, a circular 10th-century temple dedicated to the Hindu goddess Durga and accessed via a steep flight of steps on the right-hand side of the road. Once at the falls, you can take a short cable-car ride (₹60 return) to the other side of the gorge. Just before Chausath Yogini, Hotel River

View (%6942004; Bhedaghat; r from ₹1000, with AC ₹1500; a) has clean, spacious rooms,

some with wonderful views of the river, which you can also see from its back-garden restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹70). Local buses leave regularly for Bhedaghat (₹15, 40 minutes, 6am to 8pm) from Jabalpur bus stand. They drop you at a crossroads from where shared autorickshaws wait to take you the final 5km to Panchvati Ghat (₹5) or 6.5km to Dhuandhar (₹10). Getting back is just a case of waiting at the crossroads for a passing bus. The impatient might like to try squeezing into a jam-packed, Jabalpur-bound shared autorickshaw (₹10 to ₹15). See if you can beat 14 passengers!

661

Kanha National Park

AMERICAN/JUNGLE PLAN

% 07649 / TIGER POP 80

Many of the more upmarket resorts at the tiger reserves have part- and allinclusive packages rather than straight accommodation prices. The so-called American Plan includes accommodation and all meals, while the Jungle Plan includes accommodation and meals plus a morning and an afternoon jeep safari.

Madhya Pradesh is the king of the jungle when it comes to tiger parks, and Kanha (www.kanha

nationalpark.com; Indian/foreigner ₹1230/2230, jeep am/pm ₹1500/1000; h 16 Oct-30 Jun) is the

1 Sights & Activities Jeep Safaris

JEEP SAFARIS

This is why everyone comes to Kanha and pretty much everyone who lives here can hook you up with a jeep for a safari. The key, if you haven’t prebooked safaris through your hotel, is to find other independent travellers with whom you can share costs because all fees (admission and jeep) are per jeep load (maximum six adults), not per person. Budget guesthouses are the best place to enquire; try at Motel Chandan. Otherwise, just ask around. Note, a jeep containing Indian nationals and foreigners costs the foreigntourist price. There are two safari slots each day: morning (roughly 6am to 11am) and afternoon (roughly 3pm to 6pm). The morning safaris are longer, but cost slightly more and include time spent at the visitor centre. Still, mornings tend to produce more tiger sight-

MORNING CHILL No matter how hot a time of year it is, make sure you bring warm clothing with you for morning jeep safaris. It’s fr-fr-freezing in the forests before the sun comes up properly.

ings and come with the added attraction of a possible elephant safari (see boxed text p663). Nature Trails

WALKING

A well-marked 7km trail leads from just inside Khatiya Gate and skirts along the edge of the park before looping back to the village. Mostly you’ll see a lot of monkeys and birds, but tigers do venture into this area on occasions. Check with locals before you leave. Raheel, the manager at Pugmark Resort, is well informed.

4 Sleeping & Eating All hotels listed here have restaurants. There’s a row of small dhabas just before Khatiya Gate serving cheap food and chai. If you’re on a morning safari, you can grab breakfast (₹20), tea and coﬀee when you stop at the visitor centre inside the park. Note, while lodgings in the buﬀer zone enjoy a wonderfully natural forest location, there are none of the facilities that tourists can enjoy in the village outside Khatiya Gate. INSIDE THE BUFFER ZONE Tourist Hostel HOSTEL $ (%277310; Kisli Gate; American Plan dm ₹690) This

MP Tourism property, made up of a few huge, well-kept multibed dorms with clean shared bathrooms, is actually inside the buﬀer zone, right by Kisli Gate, which leads into the park’s core zone. There are no facilities here outside the dorms, the nearby canteen and the adjacent Baghira Log Huts, but the attraction is that you’re staying right in among the monkey-filled forest, and a stone’s throw from meadows which attract deer and gaur throughout the day. You’ll need to have a room booked in advance in order to get past security at Khatiya Gate, then you can hitch a ride to Kisli Gate on any passing vehicle, or on one of the buses which swing by both gates.

Baghira Log Huts GUESTHOUSE $$$ (%277227; Kisli Gate; American Plan s/d from ₹3590/3990; a) Apart from the nearby Tourist

E ASTERN PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH S I G H T S &K I EAC SI OTNI VAILT IPA MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT S IAC AGNHTHTIAVS INT &AT E SR K

most famous. The forests are vast, and while your chances of seeing a tiger are probably slightly slimmer than at nearby Bandhavgarh, they’re still very good. Add to that the fact that you can really go deep into the forest thanks to the park’s huge core area surrounded by a large buﬀer zone, and you have a complete safari experience, rather than the rush-and-grab outings some complain of at Bandhavgarh. The sal forests and vast meadows contain more than 200 tigers and leopards and support huge populations of deer and antelope, including the extremely rare barasingha. You’ll see plenty of langur monkeys, the odd gaur (Indian bison) and maybe even a family or two of wild boar. The park is also home to more than 300 bird species. There are a few gates into the park, but we focus here on Khatiya Gate, easily the most popular.

662

Hostel, this is the only place inside the buffer zone. Comfortable rather than luxurious log-cabin-lookalike rooms are set among the trees and overlook a beautiful meadow. There’s a restaurant and a bar. As with Tourist Hostel, you’ll need to have a room booked here in advance in order to get past security at Khatiya Gate. IN THE VILLAGE BY KHATIYA GATE Motel Chandan GUESTHOUSE $$ (%277220; www.motel.chandan.com; r from ₹700; a) Spotless modern rooms can be nabbed

for great rates if you bargain hard. Staﬀ members are friendly and are happy to help you find travellers to share safari costs with. On the left-hand side of the main road, 200m before Khatiya Gate.

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH E A S T E R N M A D H YA P R A D E S H

Pugmark Resort GUESTHOUSE $$ (%277291; www.pugmarkresort.com; s/d American Plan ₹1800/2400; a) Large, clean cottages are

bright and airy and set around a lovely, if slightly overgrown, garden. There’s a gazebocovered campfire and a bar, and Raheel, the manager, is very knowledgeable. It’s 700m down a track to the right of Khatiya Gate.

Van Vihar GUESTHOUSE $ (%277241; vanvihar99@yahoo.com; r ₹300-500, with AC ₹800; a) Uninspiring rooms are ba-

sic, but this is probably the best-value budget option. It’s 300m left of Khatiya Gate.

Machan Complex GUESTHOUSE $ (%252457; dm ₹30, r ₹100-300) Like staying

in a tiny Indian village, Machan has rooms in diﬀerent types of buildings set around a huge old banyan tree. There are dorms, very basic rooms in a mud-and-brick hut (₹100), mud-hut doubles (₹200) and larger rooms with sit-down toilets in a still-basic brick building (₹300). The owner, Anil, is a naturalist and extremely welcoming. About 1km before Khatiya Gate, on the right. Tuli Tiger Resort HOTEL (%277221; www.tulihotels.com; American Plan s/d cottages ₹4500/5500, luxury tents ₹16,000/18,000, Jungle Plan s/d cottages ₹14,500/15,500, tents ₹23,500/24,500; ai)

$$$

Fabulous five-star luxury set in peaceful bamboo grounds located 4km before Khatiya gate, just outside the village of Mocha. Buses to Khatiya all stop in Mocha.

8 Information

The ticket oﬃce by Khatiya Gate has internet (per hr ₹50; h6am-8pm). There’s nowhere to change money.

8 Getting There & Away

There are five daily buses from Khatiya Gate to Mandla (₹45, 2½ hours, 6am, 8.30am, 9am, 12.30pm & 6pm). The 6am, 12.30pm and 6pm continue to Jabalpur (₹98, 5½ hours). All apart from the 6pm swing by Kisli Gate too. Services from Mandla Bus Stand include: JABALPUR (₹65, three hours, regular, 4am to 9pm) KANHA (₹45, 2½ hours, five daily, 10am, 10.15am, 11.15am, 2.30pm and 4.15pm) NAGPUR (buses go via Pench National Park turn-off; ₹180, eight hours, regular, 8am to 11pm) RAIPUR (₹195, eight hours, four daily, 9am, noon, 4.20pm and 9pm)

Bandhavgarh National Park % 07653 / TIGER POP 65

If your sole reason for visiting a national park in India is to see a tiger, look no further. A couple of days at Bandhavgarh (www.bandhavgarhnationalpark.com; Indian/for eigner ₹1280/2280, jeep Tala Gate/Maghdi Gate ₹1000/1500; h16 Oct-30 Jun) almost guaran-

tees you a tiger sighting in this relatively small park that boasts the highest density of tigers in India. As well as the star attraction, there are also more than 40 leopards (although they are rarely seen) and more commonly sighted animals such as deer, wild boar and langur. Like Kanha, Bandhavgarh also has a lot of budget accommodation making this a good place for independent travellers to find other people to share safari costs with. The park takes its name from an ancient fort perched on top of 800m-high cliﬀs. Its ramparts provide a home for vultures, blue rock thrushes and crag martins. You can visit it on special jeep trips during the day, but you’ll have to pay all the usual park entry fees. The park is entered at the small, laid-back village of Tala, 32km from Umaria, the nearest train station.

1 Sights & Activities Jeep Safaris

JEEP SAFARIS

Try Kum Kum or Hotel Bagh Vihar if you want to find others with whom to share safari costs. Note, that Tala Gate (a short walk from the village) is cheaper, and has better tiger opportunities, but is sometimes fully booked by the more expensive, all-inclusive resorts. Ask

your guide the day before to try to get you one of the few VIP tickets for Tala Gate that normally go unused. Otherwise, you’ll have to settle for Maghdi Gate (7km from the village). Maghdi is the gate you must use if you want to do an elephant safari (see boxed text p663), although you need to book your ticket for that at Tala Gate the day before. Interpretation Centre MUSEUM (admission ₹5; h11am-2pm & 5.30-8pm) Inter-

esting exhibits detailing the history and legends of Bandhavgarh, plus some superb tiger photos on the 1st floor. On your right just before the village.

4 Sleeping & Eating All accommodation listed here is on the main strip (or within walking distance) and has a restaurant.

rooms are basic but comfortable and come with large bathrooms and a veranda.

Jungle Inn Resort GUESTHOUSE (%265348; r ₹1000, with AC ₹1500; a) New,

yellow-painted, two-storey building in the centre of the village with simple but smart, clean rooms overlooking a huge back lawn.

Kanha and Pench National Parks both use elephants to track tigers in the morning. Tourists on jeep safaris are then radioed in, transferred to elephants (per person Indian/foreigner ₹200/600) and led out to where the tiger is. Elephant rides typically last about 15 minutes. You get your money back if the tiger has scarpered by the time you get there. Bandhavgarh National Park has a different system: tourists here can prebook (a day in advance) one- or twohour elephant rides (₹1500/3000) as part of their next day’s morning safari. The usual safari costs are paid on top.

Inn Resort, Al-Mezbaan (mains ₹30-150) has a similar menu, friendly staff and a roadside terrace with plastic tables and chairs. Near here is the Wine Shop (Kingfisher ₹100; h9am-11pm) for all your takeaway alcohol needs.

8 Information

Tiger’s Den HOTEL $$$ (%265353; www.tigerden.com; r ₹3000-3500, American Plan ₹5000-5500; as) Very smart

olive-green bungalows with quality furnishings set around a lush, palm-lined garden with a gorgeous pool.

There’s internet access at Yadav Cyber Café (per hr ₹60; h8am-11pm), but the nearest place to withdraw money is in Umaria. From the train station, walk to the end of the road, turn right and you’ll find an ATM, along with some restaurants and hotels, on your left after a few hundred metres.

Nature Heritage Resort HOTEL $$ (%265351, 265327; shalinidev@eth.net; s/d ₹2000/2500, with AC ₹2500/3000, American Plan ₹3500/4000; a) It’s all about bamboo

8 Getting There & Around

Hotel Bagh Vihar HOTEL (%265302, 9406754888; s/d ₹400/600) Noth-

Train Trains from Umaria include the 18477 Utkal Express to Delhi (Nizamuddin); (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹316/860/1181, 17 hours, 8.50pm) via Gwalior (11 hours), Agra (14 hours) and Mathura (15 hours), and the 18234 Narmada Express, which goes to Jabalpur (₹80/261/352, 4½ hours, 4.20pm) before continuing to Bhopal (12 hours), Ujjain (16½ hours) and Indore (18½ hours). There’s one daily train to Varanasi, but it’s at 4.30am (15160 Sarnath Express; ₹206/547/750,

here, with luxury, bamboo-trim cottages, containing bamboo furniture including bamboo bed frames, set around lush gardens shaded by…yep, bamboo. Has a very pleasant open-air restaurant. It’s 1km down a track opposite Kum Kum.

ing fancy, but 1st-floor rooms above the only internet cafe in the village are neat and tidy. Kolkata Restaurant (mains ₹25-150; h7.3010pm), at the end of the village before the

petrol pump, does good quality Indian veg and meat dishes plus some Chinese and breakfasts. The omelettes are popular. In the centre of the village, next to Jungle

663

There’s one early-morning bus from Umaria train station to Tala Village (₹25, one hour, 6.30am). After that you’ll have to either take an autorickshaw (₹300) or taxi (₹500). Alternatively, take a cycle rickshaw to Umaria bus stand (₹10, 10 minutes), from where there are one or two buses an hour to Tala (₹30). The last bus from Tala Village back to Umaria bus stand is 7.30pm.

E ASTERN PR MADHYA ADESHTISGARH S L E E P I N GB AT IN MADHYA ADESH PR & CHHAT S LA&ENEDP HI N AVG GG&A RE H ATNI NAT G I O N A L PA R K

Kum Kum Home GUESTHOUSE $ (%265324; r ₹350-400) Best budget option –

ELEPHANT RIDES

664

12 hours). Trains to Satna (from where you can also catch buses to Khajuraho (p633), are equally inconvenient, the least sleep-depriving being the 51754 Chirmiri-Rewa Passenger (sleeper ₹80, 3½ hours, 1am). For Chhattisgarh, there are two daily trains to Raipur, the best being the 15159 Sarnath Express (₹173/455/621, eight hours, 10.18pm) An alternative to Umaria is Katni, a busier railway junction from where there are direct trains to places like Jabalpur, Satna and Varanasi. You can catch a direct bus to Katni (₹50, three hours, three daily, 6.30am, 8am and 2pm) from Tala Mall, 3km beyond Tala Village.

Pench Tiger Reserve % 07695 / TIGER POP 33

The third of Madhya Pradesh’s trio of wellknown tiger parks, Pench (www.penchnation

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH C H H AT T I S G A R H

alpark.com; Indian/foreigner ₹1230/2230, jeep ₹1000-1500; h16 Oct-30 Jun) is made up mostly

of teak-tree forest rather than sal and so has a diﬀerent flavour than nearby Kanha or Bandhavgarh. It also sees fewer tourists so, as you’re driving around the park, you’ll often feel like you have the whole forest to yourself. Tigers are fewer too, but are generally spotted every few days. For elephant rides, see the boxed text on p663.

1 Sights & Activities Jeep Safaris

JEEP SAFARIS

A lack of budget accommodation means it’s tough to find other independent travellers to share jeep costs with. Kipling’s Court is your best bet. Otherwise, try hanging around the park gate and keep your fingers crossed that a jeep comes along with passengers who aren’t on an all-inclusive package. As at the other tiger parks, there are morning (sunrise to 10am) and afternoon (3pm to sunset) safaris.

4 Sleeping & Eating All of these hotels have restaurants. Mowgli’s Den GUESTHOUSE $$ (%232832; s/d ₹1600/2800, American Plan ₹2200/4000) A nice choice for families; the

reception and restaurant are set around a lush lawn with children’s playground, tyre swing, duck pond and rabbit hutch. Log cabin-lookalike concrete huts come with delightful wrought-iron furniture and huge circular bathrooms with Jacuzzi-sized sunken baths. There’s no TV to spoil the natural sounds of the jungle, and when you turn oﬀ the lights to sleep, a fluorescent night sky magically appears on your bedroom ceiling. It’s 1km past the village of Turia.

Kipling’s Court GUESTHOUSE $$ (%232830; kcpench@mptourism.com; dm/s/d American Plan ₹700/2290/2890, with AC s/d ₹3290/3890; a) Considering prices include

all meals, the large dorms here are good value. There are two, with five beds each. They’re both in tip-top condition and share a large clean shower area. The private cottages aren’t bad either and are dotted around well-kept gardens. Also has a bar. It’s 2km past Turia, about 1km before the park gate. Tuli Tiger Corridor HOTEL $$$ (%232859, 09981994116, Nagpur office 07122534784; www.tulihotels.com; cottage/tent American Plan ₹10,000/18,000; ais) Ex-

travagance by the bucketload in exquisite cottages with verandas and luxury tents with private lawns. There’s also a gorgeous pool, a spa and massage centre, and a bar. It’s 500m past Mowgli’s Den.

8 Information

Buses running between Nagpur and Jabalpur will drop you at Khawasa, which is about 12km east of the small crossroads village of Turia, beyond which you’ll find the accommodation we list here. The main gate to the park is about 3km beyond Turia. The nearest airport and major train station is in Nagpur. There’s nowhere to change money and no reliable internet access.

8 Getting There & Away

Regular buses, day and night, link Khawasa with Nagpur (₹50, two hours) and Jabalpur (₹130, five hours, 7am to 11pm). Shared jeeps (₹10) run between Khawasa and Turia when full. You can go to Kanha National Park from Khawasa without going all the way to Jabalpur or Mandla. Flag down any north-bound bus to Seoni (₹30, one hour) then take a Mandla-bound bus to Chiraidongri (₹60, 2½ hours) where you can catch buses to Khatiya Gate (₹25, one hour, last bus 9pm).

CHHATTISGARH Chhattisgarh is remote, its public transport system is poor and its tourist infrastructure outside the main cities is almost nonexistent, but for the intrepid traveller, time spent here may well prove to be the highlight of your trip to this part of India. The country’s most densely forested state is blessed with natural beauty – waterfalls and unspoilt nature reserves abound. More interestingly, though, it is home to 42 diﬀerent tribes whose pointillist paintings and spindly sculptures are as

vivid as the colourful haats (markets) that take place across the region, particularly around Jagdalpur in Bastar. Chhattisgarh is one of the eastern states associated with the Naxalite guerrillas (an ultra-leftist political movement that began in Naxal Village, West Bengal), but they rarely stray from their remote hideouts on Chhattisgarh’s northern and southern borders.

Raipur % 0771 / POP 700,113

Chhattisgarh’s ugly capital is a centre for the state’s steel industry and, apart from being a day trip away from Sirpur, has little in the way of tourist attractions. The Chhattisgarh Tourism Board head oﬃce is worth visiting here, though. Hotel Jyoti HOTEL $ (%2428777; Pandri; s/d from ₹400/500, with AC from ₹750/900; a) A tranquil retreat after

a long bus journey. Rooms are well looked after and the manager is helpful. Right opposite the bus stand.

Hotel Radhika HOTEL $$ (%2233806; Jaistambh Chowk; r from ₹550, with AC from ₹1000; a) A centrally located one-

stop point for all your needs – a bank opposite, an ice-cream parlour below, a thali restaurant above and two bars next door. What more could you need? Rooms vary from basic budget jobs to decent AC midrangers. Book ahead – it’s popular.

Girnar Restaurant INDIAN $$ (Hotel Radhika, Jaistambh Chowk; mains ₹70-170; h11am-10pm) This 40-year-old restaurant

serves good-quality Indian food. It’s right opposite Hotel Radhika reception. Upstairs, the separate thali restaurant (unlimited thali ₹85; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm) is wonderful. Supreet Restaurant INDIAN (Pandri; mains ₹30-70; h9am-10.30pm) South

Indian breakfasts and tasty veg mains at this cheap and cheerful place near the bus stand. Turn left out of the bus stand and it’s 500m along on your left.

8 Information

There are ATMs outside the bus and train stands. Chhattisgarh Tourism Board head office (% 9425811615, 4066415; www.chhattisgarh

A possible day trip from Raipur, Sirpur is home to dozens of ruined Hindu temples and Buddhist monasteries, all dotted around the village and surrounding countryside. Many of the excavations are works in progress. All are free to see apart from the star of the show, the 7th-century Laxman Temple (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk), one of the oldest brick temples in India. Buses from Raipur bus stand drop you at Sirpur Mudh (₹40, two hours), a junction 17km from Sirpur where you’ll have to wait for a bus or shared jeep (₹10, 25 minutes) to the village. For Laxman Temple, turn right past the snack stalls and keep walking for 1km. It’s on the left, past the petrol pump.

tourism.net; beside Sibbal Palace Hotel, GE Rd; h10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat); train station (% 6456336; h10am-5pm) Gives statewide advice and can help organise tribal visits, transport, accommodation and guides. Internet cafe (per hr ₹10; h9.30am-10pm) Turn right out of the bus stand and it’s 500m along on your right. State Bank of India (%2535176; Jaistambh Chowk; h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1.30pm Sat) Opposite Hotel Radhika. Changes travellers cheques and cash, and has an ATM.

8 Getting There & Around

Air Air India (%4060942; Pandri; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) flies daily to Mumbai (₹5500, 3½ hours) via Bhubaneswar (₹3000, 50 minutes), and to Delhi (₹5500, 2½ hours) via Nagpur (₹3000, 40 minutes). Turn left out of the bus stand and the oﬃce is 1km along on your left, just past the level crossing. Kingfisher (%2535322; Lal Ganga Shopping Mall; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) flies daily to Delhi and Kolkata (₹5700). Lal Ganga Shopping Mall is 200m from Hotel Radikha. An autorickshaw to the airport, 15km out of town, costs ₹100 to ₹150. Bus The government bus ticket oﬃce is invariably unmanned so it’s far easier to use private bus companies, which all operate out of the bus stand area too. Mahendra Travels, with a ticket

665

CHHAT TISGARH S L E&E PCHHAT I N G & TISGARH E AT I N G R MADHYA PR ADESH S LAEI PEU PR I N G & E AT I N G

4 Sleeping & Eating

THE VENERABLE LAXMAN TEMPLE

666

desk directly opposite the bus stand, where the Jagdalpur buses leave from, is reliable. Between government- and private-run buses you’ll find frequent departures to Jagdalpur (seat/sleeper ₹210/270, seven hours, 10.45am to midnight), and a few early morning and late evening buses to both Jabalpur (₹280, 11 hours) and Nagpur (₹220, eight hours). Rickshaws A cycle-rickshaw or autorickshaw between the bus stand and train station costs ₹25/50. Shared autos (₹10) ply the same route as well as the main GE Rd between Jaistambh Chowk and Chhattisgarh Tourism’s head oﬃce (₹10).

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH C H H AT T I S G A R H

Train Useful trains include the 18237 Chhattisgarh Express to Delhi’s Nizamuddin station (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹398/1090/1502, 27½ hours, 4.20pm) via Nagpur (5½ hours), Bhopal (14½ hours), Jhansi (19½ hours), Gwalior (21½ hours) and Agra (24 hours), and the 12859 Gitanjali Express to Kolkata’s Howrah station (₹323/852/1159, 13 hours, 11.35pm).

Jagdalpur % 07782 / POP 103,123

The friendly capital of the Bastar region is an ideal base for exploring tribal Chhattisgarh (see boxed text, p668). The town itself hosts a haat every Sunday where you’ll see Adivasis (tribespeople) buying, selling and bartering alongside town traders, but it’s in the surrounding villages where Adivasi life can be fully appreciated. Some villages are extremely remote, and only really accessible with a guide. Others, though, are just a bus ride away

FANCY A BITE? Red ants are more than just a painful nuisance to the Bastar tribes. Known as chapura, they also play an important role in food and medicine. They are often eaten live, served on a leaf with white ant eggs. Alternatively, villagers grind them into a paste and mix them with chilli to make chutney. The bodies of chapura contain formic acid believed to have useful medicinal qualities. If suﬀering from a fever, locals will sometimes put their hand into an ants nest, allowing it to be bitten hundreds of times so that the acid is administered into their bloodstream. Paracetamol for the hardcore.

and, particularly on market days (see boxed text, p667), can be explored independently. For eight particularly lively days in October, Jagdalpur’s streets transform into race tracks as immense, home-made chariots are pitted against each other in an unusual climax to the 75-day festival of Dussehra (see p611). Sanjay Market, which hosts the Sunday haat, is the heartbeat of Jagdalpur. Hotel Rainbow is opposite, while Main Rd, a lively shopping street, is 200m away (turn left out of the market, then first right). The bus stand and train station are 3km and 4km south respectively (₹15 and ₹20 in a cyclerickshaw).

1 Sights

Anthropological Museum MUSEUM (Chitrakote Rd; admission free; h10am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Old-fashioned museum

with fascinating collection of artefacts (tools, jewellery, musical instruments) collected from tribal villages in the 1970s and 80s. Cycle-rickshaw from the centre of town, cost ₹40 to ₹50. Shared autorickshaws from the Chitrakote Rd junction near Sanjay Market cost ₹10.

4 Sleeping & Eating If the following are full, there are a couple of OK hotels opposite Shabari emporium. Hotel Rainbow HOTEL $$ (%221684; hotelrainbow@indiatimes.com; s/d from ₹495/550, with AC from ₹700/825; a) Even the

cheap, non-AC rooms are huge and well furnished in this good-value hotel, while the restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹150; open 7am to 10.30pm) is one of the best in town. Opposite Sanjay Market. Twenty-four-hour checkout. Hotel Chetak HOTEL $ (%223503; s/d ₹325/425, with AC ₹625/725; a)

Handy for the bus stand, tidy rooms are smaller than Rainbow’s but clean enough. Has a (very) low-lit bar-restaurant (mains ₹40 to ₹130, beer ₹110; open 10am to 10.30pm). Turn right out of the bus stand and walk 100m.

Shopping

Shabari HANDICRAFTS (Chandi Chowk; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat) A fixed-

price government emporium selling Adivasi handicrafts from small, spindly iron figures (₹20) to more expensive, heavy bell-metal statues. From the Sanjay Market end of Main

BASTAR HAATS – HOW TO FIND ADIVASI MARKETS

667

Most haats (markets) run from around noon to 5pm. There are many markets – these are just some of the more popular ones. Ask at the Chhattisgarh Tourism Board in Raipur (p665) for details. Shared jeeps normally hang around markets to take people back to Jagdalpur. WHEN

WHERE

DISTANCE FROM BUS FROM JAGDALPUR JAGDALPUR

Mon

Tokapal

23km

₹13, 30min

To buy bell-metal craftwork from Ghadwa Adivasis

Tue

Pakhnar

70km

No direct bus

Beautiful forest setting

Wed

Darbha

40km

₹30, 1hr

Attended by Bhurwa Adivasis

Thu

Bastar

18km

₹25, 30min

Easy to reach from Jagdalpur

Fri

Nangur

35km

No direct bus

Attended by distant forest Adivasis

Nagarnar

18km

No direct bus

Chance to see colourful Bhatra Adivasis

Sat

Kuknar

65km

₹45, 2hr

Bison-Horn Maria stronghold

Sun

Jagdalpur

Central city location, open late into the evening

Chingitarai

52km

No direct bus

Open, meadow setting

Pamela

12km

₹10, 20min

If you feel inclined to see animated crowds bet on cockfighting

8 Information

Internet Garden (Main Rd; per hr ₹20; h8.30am-10.30pm) lets you hook up your laptop and is walking distance from Sanjay Market. Turn left, take the first right (Main Rd) and it’s 500m on your left. There’s nowhere to change money, but there’s an ATM opposite Shabari emporium, and others around town. Contact the Chhattisgarh Tourism Board in Raipur (p665) to arrange a guide to help with trips to tribal areas of the Bastar region, or arrange your own (p667 ).

8 Getting There & Away

Bus There are regular services to Raipur (seat/ sleeper from ₹210/290, seven hours, 4.30am to midnight), via Kondagaon (₹55, 1½ hours). Buses to Chitrakote Falls (₹30, 1½hrs) leave from Anumapa Takij, a local cinema about 2km (cycle-rickshaw ₹10) from the bus stand. From Hotel Rainbow, turn left then take the first right and buses, plus shared jeeps, will be on your left. Train There’s only one train here, but it’s a good’un. The 58502 Kirandul–Visakhapatnam heads over

the scenic Eastern Ghats on India’s highest broad gauge line to Visakhapatnam (sleeper/ 1st class ₹102/384, 11 hours) on the Andhra Pradesh coast, via Koraput (₹80/199, three hours) for connections into Orissa. It leaves Jagdalpur daily at 9.50am. In the opposite direction, the 58501 arrives in Jagdalpur at 4.35pm. Train reservations (h8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Sun) can be made at the train station, a ₹10 cycle-rickshaw ride from the bus stand.

Around Jagdalpur You can get to many local Adivasi villages by bus – this is certainly an option on market days – but some are pretty inaccessible, and if you want to actually meet tribespeople, rather than just look at them, a guide is essential as a translator if nothing else. They can also help you arrange homestays. Awesh Ali (%9425244925; aweshali@gmail.com; per day ₹1000) comes highly recommended. Contact him directly, or go through the Chhattisgarh Tourism Board (p665). A car and driver will cost ₹800 per day plus diesel (about ₹50 per 10km). HAATS

These colourful markets are the lifeblood of tribal Chhattisgarh, and visiting them is

CHHAT TISGARH 8 & CHHAT TISGARH A MADHYA PR ADESH 8 R O U N D J AG DA L P U R

Rd, take the third right and continue for 500m. Opposite the Bank of Baroda ATM.

WHY GO?

668

THE EIGHT TRIBES OF BASTAR » Bhatra – Women are distinguished by their particularly colourful saris and an abundance of jewellery, including their distinctive gold, conical nose studs. » Bhurwa – Men wear simple headscarves wrapped around their foreheads, often coloured red and white.

» Bison-Horn Maria – Famed for their distinctive double-horned headdress worn during festivals. » Ghadwa – The bell-metal specialists of Bastar.

» Dorla – The only tribe to make their homes from the branches and leaves of trees found in the remote forests of the far south of Chhattisgarh (instead of mud thatch).

» Halba – Excellent farmers, taller in stature than other Adivasis. Men often only wear a loincloth.

» Hill Maria or Abhuj Maria – Extremely remote tribe whose people very rarely venture out from their villages in the dense forests of the Bastar Hills. » Muria – Known for the huge amount of jewellery worn by both men and women.

MADHYA PR ADESH & CHHAT TISGARH C H H AT T I S G A R H

an excellent way to get a taste of Bastar’s vibrant Adivasi culture. Diﬀerent tribes walk up to 20km to trade everything from their distinctive, almost fluorescent, saris to live red ants. Called chapura (see boxed text, p666) these ants are sold as food, eaten live (yes, still crawling and biting; ₹5 per leaf if you’re interested) oﬀ a leaf. More appetising perhaps are bobo (rice and lentil cakes; ₹3) or bhajiya (fried lentil powder; ₹3), both eaten with a spicy relish. The large piles of what look like squashed dates are in fact dried mahuwa, a type of flower, either eaten fresh, or dried then boiled to create steam which is fermented to produce a potent liquor, the favourite tipple of many Bastar Adivasis. For more information on haats, see the boxed text (p667). ADIVASI VILLAGES

There are more than 3500 villages in Bastar. Earrakote, 3.5km beyond Tokapal, is a mixed-tribe village, made up largely of Ghadwa, specialists in the art of bell-metal craftwork. The skill has been passed down through generations, in some instances for as long as 300 years. A number of family members are involved in the process, from the initial clay moulding and melting of scrap metal to the painstaking job of covering the moulds in wax thread, a part of the process which is unique to Bastar. Awesh Ali (p667 ) can put you in touch with families here who will put you

up for the night in exchange for scrap metal or wax, which you can buy for them in Jagdalpur. CHITRAKOTE FALLS

India’s broadest waterfall (300m), twothirds the size of Niagara, is at its roaring best just after the rains, but beautiful all year round, particularly at sunset. When the water is low, it’s possible to paddle in pools at the top of the drop. Take extreme care. In the river below the falls you can swim or get a local fisherman to row you up to the spray (₹25). Take the steps that lead down from the garden of the government-only hotel.

Chitrakote Log Huts (%07859200194, 9993854165; cabins ₹1600; a), with comfort-

able AC cabins (some with fantastic views of the falls), is a peaceful place to stay. The eyesore of a restaurant does simple dishes (from ₹30) plus tea and coﬀee, and its veranda is a nice place to sit and admire the views. The last bus back to Jagdalpur is at 4pm.

KONDAGAON

% 07786 / POP 26,898

Some 76km north of Jagdalpur is a craft complex run by NGO Saathi (%242852,

9425259152; saathibastar@yahoo.co.in; Kondagaon; training & daily board ₹500, weekly materials ₹500; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat), encouraging Adivasis in

the production of terracotta, woodcarving and metalwork. You can visit crafts people at work, there’s a shop and training can be given. All Raipur–Jagdalpur buses go through Kondagaon.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Gujarat Ahmedabad (Amdavad). . . . . . . . . .672 Vadodara (Baroda) . . 684 Bhavnagar . . . . . . . . . 688 Palitana . . . . . . . . . . . 690 Diu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 692 Veraval . . . . . . . . . . . . .697 Somnath . . . . . . . . . . 698 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . 699 Junagadh . . . . . . . . . . 700 Gondal . . . . . . . . . . . . 704 Rajkot . . . . . . . . . . . . . 704 Jamnagar . . . . . . . . . . 706

Why Go? Gujarat is a dynamic, relatively prosperous state that’s barely glimpsed by many travellers scurrying between Mumbai (Bombay) and Rajasthan. But stop and explore and you’ll find that this homeland of Mahatma Gandhi is quite a cocktail of surprises. It has its industries, but it also has artisans who weave and embroider some of India’s finest textiles, and pristine parks harbouring unique wildlife such as the Asiatic lion. Its terrain is mostly flat, but it’s scattered with dramatic, temple-topped, sacred mountains. Its cities range from the hectic to the frantic but they’re also endowed with a wealth of beautiful old palace, mosque and temple architecture. The Gujarati people are renowned for their entrepreneurial nous and industriousness but with foreign tourists so scarce here, you’re more likely to enjoy a friendly chat rather than a hard sell from locals. Gujarat is a dry state but this is one nonalcoholic cocktail that’s worth savouring.

Kachchh (Kutch) . . . . 710

When to Go Best Places to Eat Ahmedabad a Gujarati Thali °C/°F Temp » Agashiye (p678)

» Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort (p713) » Geeta Lodge (p703)

» Zorba the Buddha (p716)

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

16/400 0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4

Best Places to Stay » Camp Zainabad (p716) » House of MG (p677)

» Vijay Vilas Adpur (p691) » Herança Goesa (p693)

Sep/Oct Navratri festival brings music and dancing to every town and village.

Nov–Dec Mango milkshake time in Junagadh.

Nov–Mar The best months to visit Gujarat’s national parks and wildlife sanctuaries.

MAIN POINT OF ENTRY Ahmedabad (Amdavad) has direct flights from Singapore and several Persian Gulf cities, plus nine Indian cities. It’s also the major hub for trains and buses connecting Gujarat with the rest of India.

Fast Facts » Population: 60.4 million » Area: 196,024 sq km

» Capital: Gandhinagar

» Main language: Gujarati

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹1000, $$ ₹1000 to ₹5000, $$$ above ₹5000

Top Tip Gujarat’s most exhilarating destinations are away from its crowded, noisy cities. To enjoy it most, head out to its national parks and wildlife sanctuaries, to the tops of its sacred mountains, to the island retreat of Diu or to the handicraft hotbed of Kachchh (Kutch).

Food Gujarat is strong on vegetarian food, partly thanks to the Jain influence here, and the quintessential Gujarati meal is the all-veg Gujarati thali. It’s sweeter, lighter and less spicy and oily than Punjabi thali and locals have no doubts it’s the best thali in the world. It begins with a large stainless-steel dish, onto which teams of waiters will serve most or all of the following: curries, chutneys, pickles, dhal, kadhi (a yoghurt and gram-flour preparation), raita, rotis, rice, khichdi (a blend of lightly spiced rice and lentils), farsan (savoury nibbles), salad and one or two sweet items – to be eaten concurrently with the rest. Buttermilk is the traditional accompanying drink. Normally the rice and/or khichdi don’t come till you’ve finished with the rotis. In most thali restaurants the waiters will keep coming back until you can only say ‘No more’. A good thali is an unbelievable combination of flavours – and a balanced, healthy, and usually good-value meal too.

DON’T MISS Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary oﬀers the chance to see the only wild Asiatic lions, the last of a species that once roamed from the Middle East to northern India. Lion numbers in this forest sanctuary have risen to around 400 and the chances of seeing some on a jeep safari are roughly fifty-fifty. Take two or three safaris and you’d be unlucky not to get a lion sighting. The complicated jigsaw of tribal groups and subcastes who inhabit the villages of Kachchh (Kutch) are some of India’s finest artisans, practising a huge variety of crafts and especially textiles. Their embroidery, weaving, tie-dye and block printing are intensely colourful and infinitely varied, and visits to some of their workshops and sales outlets make a fascinating journey into a world of colour, pattern and endless hours of meticulous, amazingly skilled craftwork.

Resources » Gujarat Tourism (www .gujarattourism.com)

» Gujarat Forest Department (www.gujaratforest .gov.in)

» Diu Tourism Department (www.diutourism.co.in) » Kala Raksha (www.kala -raksha.org)

Top State Festivals » Uttarayan (14–15 Jan, Ahmedabad, p677) Kite festival.

» Modhera Dance Festival (around 20 Jan, Modhera, p683) Indian classical dance jamboree. » Bhavnath Mela (Jan/Feb, Junagadh, p701) Hindu festival at the foot of sacred Girnar Hill.

» Mahakali Festival (Mar/Apr, Pavagadh, p688) Pilgrims pay tribute to Kali at Pavagadh hill. » Navratri (Sep/Oct, statewide, p684) Nine nights of dancing all around Gujarat. » Kartik Purnima (Nov/Dec, Somnath, p698, and Shatrunjaya, p690) Large fair at Somnath; Jain pilgrims flock to Shatrunjaya hill.

ὄὄ

100 km 60 miles

PAKISTAN

Rhinmal

Guru Sirohi Shikhar (1722m) Mt Abu Abu Road

Dholavira

Khavda Ravechi Ludia

Dhinodhar Hill (388m) Bhuj

Bhujodi

Bada

Gulf of Kachchh

Mandvi

Anjar Gandhidham Kandla 8A

Dhrangadhra Surendranagar

Morvi

Marine Pirotan Khijadiya Bet Island Bird Sanctuary Okha Island National Park

Rajkot

Dwarka

Kathiawar Peninsula (Saurashtra)

Madhavpur Porbandar

Bagodra

Sayla

Gondal

Keshod

Sasan Gir Talala

Gandhinagar

Adalaj Vav

Ahmedabad (Amdavad) Dakor Godhra

Nadiad Jambughoda Lothal Anand Champaner Vadodara Cambay (Baroda) Pavagadh

Blackbuck National Park

Dabhoi N

Valabhipur Bhavnagar

Dhoraji

Girnar Hill

Junagadh

Himatnagar

Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary

Tarnetar

Wankaner Jamnagar

Unjha Mahesana

Dasada Zainabad Viramgam

Wild Ass Sanctuary

Patan

Modhera

Little Rann of Kachchh

Sumrasar Sheikh

Narara

Palanpur

Lilpur

Udaipur

Disa

Great Rann of Kachchh

Lakphat Kachchh (Kutch) Hodka Than

671

RAJASTHAN

arm Riv ada er

Bharuch

Sihor Palitana

Mangrol Chorwad Veraval Somnath Kodinar

Visavadar Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary Una

Shatrunjaya

Mahuva

Delwada Diu

Alang Talaja

Gulf of Cambay Dandi

Tapti River Surat Navsari 8

Udvada Vapi

ARABIAN SEA

The Dangs Saputara

Daman

DADRA & HAGAR HAVELI

MAHARASHTRA

Nasik

To Mumbai (110km)

Gujarat Highlights 1 Take a forest safari in

search of Asia’s only wild lions at Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary (p699)

2 Change down a gear and

head for a sleepy island sojourn at the former Portuguese enclave of Diu (p692)

3 Explore the villages of Kachchh (Kutch; p714) to

GUJAR AT

ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ 0 0

understand, admire and acquire some of India’s best textiles

4 Explore an abandoned capital city and follow pilgrims up a mountain at the World Heritage Site of Champaner and Pavagadh (p687) 5 Undertake a challenging dawn pilgrimage to the hilltop temples of Shatrunjaya

(p690) near Palitana or Girnar Hill (p701) near Junagadh

6 Tackle a thali, explore the old-city mosques, and pay homage to Mahatma Gandhi in bustling Ahmedabad (Amdavad; p672)

7 Go looking for Indian wild

ass on the flat salt plains of the Little Rann of Kachchh (p716)

672

History

GUJAR AT E A S T E R N G U J A R AT

It’s said that Gujarat’s Temple of Somnath witnessed the creation of the universe, and many significant sites in Krishna’s life lie along the state’s coast. On a firmer historical footing, Lothal and Dholavira (Kachchh) were important sites of the Indus Valley civilisation more than 4000 years ago. Gujarat featured in the exploits of the mighty Buddhist emperor Ashoka, and you can see his rock edicts near Junagadh. Jainism, an important element of Gujarati life today, first took root under a grandson of Ashoka who governed Saurashtra. The rule of the Hindu Solanki dynasty from the 10th to 13th centuries, with its capital at Patan, is considered Gujarat’s cultural golden age. Solanki rule was ended when Ala-ud-din Khilji brought Gujarat into the Delhi sultanate after several campaigns around 1300. A century later the Muslim Gujarat sultanate broke free of Delhi rule and established a new capital at Ahmedabad. The Mughal empire conquered Gujarat in the 1570s and held it until the Hindu Marathas from central India occupied eastern and central Gujarat in the 18th century. The British set up their first Indian trading base at Surat on Gujarat’s coast in about 1614, and replaced Maratha power in the early 19th century. Most of Gujarat’s 400 or so princely states – many of them ruled by assorted Rajput clans – retained a degree of local autonomy under the British. Daman and Diu survived as Portuguese enclaves on Gujarat’s coast until 1961. After Independence, eastern Gujarat became part of Bombay state. Saurashtra and Kachchh, initially separate states, were incorporated into Bombay state in 1956. In 1960 Bombay state was divided on linguistic lines into Gujarati-speaking Gujarat and Marathi-speaking Maharashtra. The Congress Party of India largely controlled Gujarat until 1991 when the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) came to power. In 2002, communal violence erupted after a Muslim mob was blamed for an arson attack on a train at Godhra that killed 59 Hindu activists. Hindu gangs set upon Muslims in revenge. This violence coincided with the beginning of the state election campaign, and BJP chief minister Narendra Modi followed a policy of fiercely Hindu rhetoric, but it brought him a landslide victory. In 2011 a court in Gujarat sentenced 11 Muslims to death, and 20 to life imprisonment, for setting fire to the train, while Modi was criticised by a Supreme Court panel for a ‘partisan stance’ over the

subsequent violence. Since the 2002 riots, however, Gujarat has been peaceful, and continues to enjoy its reputation as one of India’s most prosperous and businesslike states. It has, among other things, some exceptionally good roads (as well as some awful ones), and its buses mostly run on time. In 2008 the large and lucrative Tata Motors’ Nano car project was secured for the town of Sanand, west of Ahmedabad.

EASTERN GUJARAT Ahmedabad (Amdavad) % 079 / POP 4.52 MILLION

Ahmedabad (also called Amdavad, Ahmadabad or Ahemdavad) is Gujarat’s major city and a startling metropolis with a long history, many remarkable buildings, a fascinating maze of an old quarter, excellent museums, fine restaurants and fabulous night markets. Yet the old-world charm is all but swamped by 21st-century traﬃc, crowding, pollution and the usual extremes of wealth and poverty. Many travellers stop oﬀ briefly en route to Rajasthan or Mumbai, sneaking in a visit to Sabarmati Ashram (Gandhi’s former headquarters). You need a little stamina to get to know the city better, as it’s quite spread out and moving around can be a bit of a task. The old city lies on the east side of the Sabarmati River and used to be surrounded by a 10km-long wall, of which little now remains except 15 formidable gates standing

ALCOHOL PERMITS Gujarat is a dry state but alcohol permits for foreign visitors are easy to get at most large hotels with a ‘wine shop’; show your passport plus a certificate or letter from your hotel (your Gujarat ‘residence form’) to receive a onemonth permit. Permits are only available within one month of your arrival in India. Although they are oﬃcially free, local authorities often demand ₹100 or so from the shops and the shops pass this cost on to the customer. The permit allows you two units over the month and that equates to 20 bottles of standard beer, which you must drink in private. Cheers.

as forlorn islands amid swirling, cacophonous traﬃc. The new city on the west side of the river, nearly all built in the last 50 years, has wider streets with freer-flowing traﬃc and many middle-class neighbourhoods. History

1 Sights FSabarmati Ashram

HISTORIC SITE

(www.sabarmati.org; Ashram Rd; h8.30am-6.30pm)

About 5km north of the centre, in peaceful, shady grounds on the river’s west bank, this ashram was Gandhi’s headquarters from 1917 to 1930 during the long struggle for Indian independence. It’s said Gandhi chose this site because it lay between a jail and a cemetery and any satyagrahi (nonviolent resister) was bound to end up in one or the other. From here on 12 March 1930 Gandhi and 78 companions set out on the famous Salt March to Dandi on the Gulf of Cambay in a symbolic protest, with Gandhi vowing not to return to the ashram until India had gained independence. The ashram was disbanded in 1933, later becoming a centre for Dalit welfare activities and cottage industries. Gandhi’s poignant, spartan living quarters are preserved, and there’s a museum that presents an informative record of his life and teachings. After Gandhi’s death some of his ashes were immersed in the river in front of the ashram. Buses 13/1 and 83 (₹5) run here from Lal Darwaja bus stand. An autorickshaw from the city centre is about ₹40.

MUSEUM

(%22868172; www.calicomuseum.com; Sarabhai Foundation; htours 10.30am & 3pm Thu-Tue) This

museum contains one of the world’s finest collections of antique and modern Indian textiles, all handmade and up to 500 years old. There are some astoundingly beautiful pieces, displaying incredible virtuosity and extravagance. You’ll see Kashmiri shawls that took three years to make, and doubleikat cloths whose 100,000 threads were each individually dyed before weaving. The main textile galleries can only be visited in the morning session: the tours last two hours with a maximum 25 people – 15 by group booking and 10 on a firstcome-first-served basis. Be there by 10am to maximise chances of getting in. The afternoon tour (maximum 15 people, all firstcome-first-served) is devoted to the Sarabhai Foundation’s collection of religious art, which explores depictions of Indian gods, including textile galleries. No photography is allowed. The museum is in the Shahibag area, 3.5km north of the old centre, opposite the Shahibag Underbridge. You can get there by bus 101, 102 or 105 (₹5) from Lal Darwaja local bus stand and through Delhi Gate. An autorickshaw should cost ₹40. Mosques & Mausoleums

MOSQUES

Under the Gujarat sultanate in the 15th and 16th centuries, and especially under Ahmed Shah I (1411–42) and Mahmud Begada (1459–1511), Ahmedabad was endowed with a remarkable collection of stone mosques in a unique style incorporating elements of Hindu and Jain design. The Mausoleum of Ahmed Shah (Badshah-na-Hazira), outside the Jama Masjid’s east gate, may have been constructed by Ahmed Shah himself before his death in 1442. His cenotaph is the central one under the main dome. An 11pm drumming session in the mausoleum’s eastern gateway used to signal the closing of the city gates and still happens nightly. Through an arch a little further east is Ahmed Shah’s queen’s tomb, the Rani-na-Hazira, on a raised platform now engulfed by market stalls, and in poor shape, though the jali (carved lattice) screens are nice. Siddi Sayid’s Mosque (Lal Darwaja) was built in the year the Mughals conquered Gujarat (1573), by an Abyssinian in the Gujarati army. One of Ahmedabad’s most stunning buildings, it is famed for its exquisite

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Ahmedabad was founded in 1411 by Gujarati sultan Ahmed Shah at the spot where, legend tells, he saw a hare chasing a dog (he was impressed by its bravery). The city spread quickly beyond his citadel on the east bank of the Sabarmati and by the 17th century it was considered one of the finest cities in India, a prospering trade nexus with an array of fine Islamic architecture. Its influence waned but from the second half of the 19th century Ahmedabad rose again as a huge textile centre (the ‘Manchester of the East’). By the late 20th century many of the mills had closed and the subsequent economic hardship may have been a contributing factor in the communal violence that split the city in 2002, when over 1200 people, mostly Muslims, were killed. Today Ahmedabad is booming again as a centre for IT, education and chemicals production on top of its traditional textiles and commerce, and has recently been dubbed a ‘megacity’.

FCalico Museum of Textiles

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jali windows, spiderweb fine, depicting the intricate intertwining branches of the ‘tree of life’. Southwest of Bhadra Fort, Ahmed Shah’s Mosque was built in 1414 for the sultan and nobles within Ahmedabad’s original citadel. The prayer hall is a forest of beautifully carved stone pillars and jali screens, and its elaborately carved ceiling has a circular symmetry reminiscent of Hindu and Jain temples. The small Rani Sipri’s Mosque, near the ST bus stand, is also known as the Masjide-Nagira (Jewel of a Mosque) because of its graceful construction, with delicate carved minarets and Rani Sipri’s domed tomb with fine jali screens. Rani Sipri is said to have been a Hindu widow of Mahmud Begada; the buildings date from 1514. Between Ahmedabad train station and Sarangpur Gate, the Sidi Bashir Mosque, built in 1452, is famed for its 21.3m-high shaking minarets (jhulta minara), built to

shake to protect against earthquake damage. This certainly worked in 2001.

Kankaria Lake LAKE (admission ₹10; h9am-11pm) Built in 1451 and

recently dandified as a recreation space for the city, this large lake is a nice respite from the hectic streets. Attractions include a tethered hot-air balloon (10min ride ₹100; h10am-10pm), a mini-train and a zoo. One Tree Hill Garden on the west side (entered from outside) contains some quite grand colonial Dutch tombs.

FBhadra Fort & Teen Darwaja

FORT

(Lal Darwaja; hdawn-dusk) Built immediately

after the founding of Ahmedabad in 1411, Bhadra Fort now houses government offices and a Kali temple. Its gate formed the eastern entrance of the Ahmedabad citadel, which stretched west to the river. From the roof you can check out the formidable structure and views of the surrounding streets.

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west of the old centre, Sarkhej Roza is a mosque, tomb and palace complex dedicated to the memory of Ahmed Shah I’s spiritual advisor, Ahmed Khattu Ganj Baksh. The elegant though dilapidated buildings cluster around a great (now often dry) tank, constructed by Sultan Mahmud Begada in the mid-15th century. It’s an atmospheric place that was used as a retreat by several of Ahmedabad’s rulers. The mausoleums of Mahmud Begada (by the entrance, with geometric jalis casting patterns of light on the floor) and Ganj Baksh (the largest in Gujarat) are both here. A return autorickshaw from the city centre will cost around ₹120 and Sarkhej Roza

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Between the fort and the Teen Darwaja (Triple Gateway) to its east was the Maidan Shahi (Royal Square), where royal processions and polo games took place. Today it’s a seething market area. Temples

JAIN & HINDU TEMPLES

Outside Delhi Gate, north of the old city, the Jain Hutheesingh Temple (Balvantrai Mehta Rd) is constructed of delicately carved white marble. Built in 1848, it’s dedicated to Dharamanath, the 15th Jain tirthankar (great teacher). The glorious, multicoloured, woodcarved Swaminarayan Temple (Kalupur; h6am7pm), in the old city, was built in 1822 as the

first temple of the Swaminarayan Hindu sect. Followers believe the sect’s founder, Swaminarayan (1781–1830), was the supreme being. The start of the daily Heritage Walk (p677) here at 8am usually coincides with worship at the temple, with believers’ passion on full display.

JAMA (JUMMA) MASJID Built by Ahmed Shah in 1423, the Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque) on Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd ranks as one of India’s most beautiful mosques, enhanced by an enormous, peaceful courtyard. Demolished Hindu and Jain temples provided the building materials and the mosque displays some architectural fusion with these religions, notably in the lotus-like carving of some domes, similar to that of many Jain temples. The prayer hall’s 260 columns support 15 principal domes at diﬀerent elevations. There were once two ‘shaking’ minarets, but they lost half their height in the great earthquake of 1819, though their lower portions still flank the prayer hall’s central portico.

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the river in Bhudarpura, displays an impressive range of Gujarati folk arts, including woodcarvings, metalwork and some wonderful embroidered textiles and amazing tie-dyed quilts. Included in the ticket is the Kalpana Mangaldas Museum, with festival masks from around India and, just to round things oﬀ, an elephant skeleton. It’s all set in the peaceful, peacock-dotted grounds of the Shreyas Foundation. Photos are not allowed. An autorickshaw from the centre costs around ₹35.

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Shreyas Folk Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner ₹10/90; h10am-1.30pm & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun) This museum, 3km west of

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Ahmedabad (Amdavad) æ Top Sights Ahmed Shah's Mosque ......................... D3 Jama Masjid ............................................E3 Kankaria Lake .........................................F4 Siddi Sayid's Mosque ............................ D2

23 Havmor ...................................................D2 24 Havmor ...................................................C2 25 Havmor Restaurant ............................... C1 26 Hotel ZK ..................................................D3 27 Muslim Street Stalls...............................D3 28 Neelkanth Patang...................................C2

æ Sights 1 Bhadra Fort ............................................ D3 2 City Museum.......................................... C4 3 Hutheesingh Temple.............................. E1 Kite Museum................................... (see 2) 4 Lalbhai Dalpatbhai Museum................. A2 5 Mangaldas ni Haveli ...............................E3 6 Mausoleum of Ahmed Shah ..................E3 NC Mehta Gallery ........................... (see 4) 7 Rani Sipri's Mosque................................E3 8 Rani-na-Hazira........................................E3 9 SEWA Reception Centre ....................... D3 10 Sidi Bashir Mosque.................................F3 11 Swaminarayan Temple ..........................E2 12 Teen Darwaja ......................................... D3

GUJAR AT E A S T E R N G U J A R AT

ÿ Sleeping 13 Comfort Inn President ...........................B1 14 Hotel Ambassador................................. D2 15 Hotel Cadillac......................................... D3 Hotel Good Night ...........................(see 17) 16 Hotel Royal Highness ............................ D2 Hotel Volga.....................................(see 17) 17 House of MG .......................................... D2 18 Le Meridien Ahmedabad....................... D2 19 Neelkanth Sahara.................................. C3 20 Ritz Inn.....................................................F2 21 Royal Orchid Central ............................. C3 ú Eating Agashiye.........................................(see 17) Dadi Dining Hall ............................ (see 19) Food Inn..........................................(see 17) 22 Gopi Dining Hall ..................................... C3 Green House ..................................(see 17) Havmor.......................................... (see 15)

29 Sankalp ...................................................B2

TGB Cafe 'n Bakery...................... (see 28) 30 Zen Cafe.................................................. A1

þ Shopping 31 Art Book Center .....................................C3 32 Crossword ..............................................C2 33 Gamthiwala............................................. E3 34 Garvi Gurjari............................................C2 35 Hansiba ................................................... B1 36 Law Garden Night Market .....................B2 Information 37 Apollo City Center ..................................B3 Cyberpoint.................................... (see 32) 38 Cyberworld .............................................C2 39 Gujarat Tourism ..................................... C1 HDFC ATM .................................... (see 26) Relief Cyber Café ......................... (see 26) 40 Tourism Desk .........................................B2 Transport 41 Computerised Train Booking Office ..................................... F3 42 Express Travels ...................................... C1 43 Gujarat Travels.......................................C4 44 Indian Airlines/Air India.........................D2 45 Jet Airways ............................................. C1 Kingfisher Airlines ........................ (see 29) 46 Lal Darwaja Local Bus Stand ....................................................D3 47 Patel Tours & Travels.............................B4 Raj Express ................................... (see 47) 48 Shree Swaminarayan.............................C4 49 ST Bus Stand.......................................... E4

could be combined with a visit to Vishalla restaurant and its utensil museum (p679), about 1km back towards the city.

manuscripts. A 6th-century-AD sandstone carving from Madhya Pradesh is the oldestknown carved image of the god Rama.

FLalbhai Dalpatbhai Museum

FNC Mehta Gallery

MUSEUM

(LD Museum; www.ldindology.org; Radhakrishnan Rd; h10.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) Part of the LD

Institute of Indology, this museum houses a fine collection of ancient and medieval Indian art treasures, including stone, marble, bronze and wood carvings and 75,000 Jain

MUSEUM

(Radhakrishnan Rd; h10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Jul-Apr, 8.30am-12.30pm Tue-Sun May-Jun) In

the same building as the LD Museum, this gallery has an important collection of jewellike illustrated manuscripts and miniature paintings. Best known is Chaurapanchasi-

by renowned Swiss architect Le Corbusier, the City Museum covers Ahmedabad’s history with rather old-fashioned displays, but explanatory material is in English and Gujarati – interesting enough if you’re a history buﬀ. It includes sections on the city’s religious communities, Gandhi and the Independence struggle. On the ground floor you will find the Kite Museum (admission free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), with a selection of patterned tissuepaper kites resembling trapped butterflies.

in Kalupur and finishes at the Jama Masjid around 10.30am. It’s advisable to book. The tours, through narrow, confusing streets and past dilapidated, carved wooden houses, are an excellent way to get a feel for old Ahmedabad with its 600 pols – neighbourhoods of narrow streets with common courtyards, wells and chabutaras (bird-feeding towers). The tours are in English and there’s a brief slide show beforehand. Wear slip-on footwear as you’ll be visiting plenty of temples. The House of MG oﬀers an ingenious audio guide walk (₹100). Beginning at the famed hotel (where you deposit your passport), the 80-minute walk takes an alternative route through the old city, ending at the Mangaldas ni Haveli, a finely carved old mansion that houses a crafts shop. The Municipal Corporation runs twicedaily four-hour city tours (₹100) by bus, with short stops at major sights. Buses depart from Bhadra Fort at 9am and 1.30pm.

FDada Hari Vav

4 Sleeping

ka (Fifty Love Lyrics of a Thief), written by Vilhana, an 11th-century Kashmiri poet sentenced to be hanged for loving the king’s daughter. Before his execution he was granted one final wish: he chose to recite these 50 poems, which so impressed the king that he gave Vilhana his daughter in marriage.

FCity Museum

MUSEUM

(Sanskar Kendra, Bhagtacharya Rd; h10am-6pm TueSun) In a 1956 red-brick-and-concrete building

NOTABLE BUILDING

by the supervisor of Sultan Begada’s harem, has steps down through five levels of carved stone columns to two small wells, now often bone dry. The depths are cool, even on the hottest day, and it’s a fascinating and eerie place. Overflow channels at the top are a reminder of times when water tables were much higher than today. Behind the stepwell, the 16th-century Dai Halima Mosque contains the mausoleum of a royal midwife named Halima, with nice jali screens. Vechaar Utensil Museum MUSEUM (www.vishalla.com; Bye-Pass Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹10/50; h3-10.30pm Tue-Sun) At Vishalla res-

taurant, opposite Vasna Tol Naka, this museum displays the graceful practicality of pots and utensils, with more than 4500 items from all over India, some 1000 years old.

z Festivals & Events Uttarayan

KITE FESTIVAL

Each 14–15 January, Ahmedabad hosts Uttarayan (Makar Sakranti), a traditional kite festival that attracts international participants and is well worth the stiﬀ neck.

T Tours The Municipal Corporation runs a fascinating daily Heritage Walk (%9824032866; Indian/foreigner ₹30/50) through the old city. It starts at 8am at the Swaminarayan Temple

Budget hotels are mostly clustered in the noisy, traﬃc-infested Lal Darwaja area, close to the old city, while the majority of midrange and top-end places are found on Khanpur Rd (paralleling the east bank of the Sabarmati) or west of the river, which is a more congenial environment but further from most of the interesting sights. Ahmedabad has most of the top-end hotels in Gujarat. House of MG HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%25506946; www.houseofmg.com; Lal Darwaja; s/d from ₹4990/5990, ste from ₹8990/10,900, all incl breakfast; aiWs) This 1920s building

(with two excellent restaurants) opposite Siddi Sayid’s Mosque was once the home of textile magnate Sheth Mangaldas Girdhardas – it was converted into a beautiful heritage hotel in the 1990s by his great-grandson. All the rooms are vast, verandah-edged and tastefully decorated, with great attention to detail. It’s an icon of the upper classes, and hugely popular with locals and foreigners alike. Service is first-rate, and the indoor swimming pool and gym are divine. If you know your dates, book a couple of months in advance online to receive up to 30% discount. Le Meridien Ahmedabad HOTEL $$$ (%25505505; http://lemeridien.com/ahmedabad; Khanpur Rd; s/d from ₹6500/7500, ste ₹20,000, all incl breakfast; aiWs) This luxurious option

towers over the fragile shacks scattered along the river bank. All rooms are super comfort-

E ASTERN ATLBSAF D E&S(A VA GUJAR AT A FGUJAR EHSMTEI VA DA ETVIM EDAVA NLTSS &D)E V E N T S

(hdawn-dusk) This step-well, built in 1499

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able and the suites are palatial. Breakfast is excellent and as huge as you like, and there is a neat indoor swimming pool, spa and sauna. Ask for the best available rate, which can be little more than half the rack rate. Royal Orchid Central HOTEL $$$ (%30912345; www.royalorchidhotels.com; Ellis Bridge; s ₹7000-8000, d ₹8000-9000, ste ₹12,000, all incl breakfast; aiWs) Opposite Gujarat

College, a new high-end business hotel where the rooms are tasteful and comfortable rather than exciting but have stateof-the-art gadgets like universal electrical sockets and iPod docks. There’s an excellent 24-hour restaurant-cum-coﬀee-shop. Free airport transfers too.

Hotel Ambassador HOTEL $$ (%25502490; www.ambassadorahmedabad.com; Khanpur Rd; s/d from ₹2100/2500; aiW) New-

GUJAR AT E A S T E R N G U J A R AT

ly renovated inside and out, with a bright white exterior, the Ambassador greets you with a chilled lobby and friendly desk and follows up with rooms that are quite stylish in browns and creams. With discounts often available, it’s not bad value.

Ritz Inn HOTEL $$ (%22123842; www.hotelritzinn.com; Station Rd; s ₹2400-2600, d ₹3000-4500; aiW) Near the

railway station, this smart hotel has unusual class and is excellent value for money. The art-deco lobby, comfortable rooms with superb beds, and unusually slick and amiable service make it an outstanding option. There’s a good veg restaurant, checkout is a civilised 24 hours, discounts are often available and it oﬀers free airport and station transfers.

Comfort Inn President HOTEL $$ (%26467575; www.comfortinnpresident.com; oﬀ CG Rd, Navrangpura; s/d incl breakfast from ₹3125/4000; aW) This is a calm, well-run

hotel on a quiet street close to the Chimanlal Girdharilal (CG) Rd shops in middle-class Navrangpura. Rooms aren’t huge but are solidly comfortable and well equipped, and there’s an in-house wine shop as well as a multicuisine restaurant. Good discounts are often available; airport transfers are free. Hotel Royal Highness HOTEL $$ (%25507450; www.hotelroyalhighness.com; Lal Darwaja; s/d incl breakfast from ₹2750/3300; aiW)

This grand edifice is in a convenient location and the lobby is impressive. The rooms have all been renovated and are spacious and clean. Deluxe rooms feature zebra-print furnishings and sparkling bathrooms with

big glassed-in showers. There is a 24-hour restaurant, and a free airport shuttle service. Hotel Volga HOTEL $ (%25509497; www.hotelvolga.com; Hanuman Lane, oﬀ Relief Rd, Lal Darwaja; s/d ₹600/750, s with AC ₹800-1000, d with AC ₹950-1150; a) This sur-

prisingly good option tucked down a narrow street behind the House of MG is worth searching out. Rooms are smart and respectably clean, with a hint of 1970s design in the curved beige walls – some are more dashingly decorated. The front desk is friendly and eﬃcient, checkout is 24 hours, and you can order decent multicuisine food (mains ₹95 to ₹175) to your room.

Hotel Good Night HOTEL $ (%25507181; hotelforyou2002@yahoo.com; Lal Darwaja; s/d from ₹450/550, s with AC ₹800-1300, d with AC ₹/950-1500; a) This tidy hotel next

door to the House of MG has budget rooms better than the average in these parts. There are seven categories of room, all clean and well kept, so it shouldn’t be too hard to find one that suits your budget and comfort needs, though the ground-floor ‘Ordinary’ ones are dingy and can be odorous.

Neelkanth Sahara HOTEL $$ (%66615145; sahara@neelkanthhotels.com; 2nd fl, Iscon Sq, Pritamraj Rd, Paldi; s/d ₹750/850, with AC from ₹900/1100; a) With helpful staﬀ, bright,

tasteful decor, and decent-sized rooms, this is quite good value and close to many private bus oﬃces. There’s a fruit-and-vegetable market on the ground floor of the building, and a good thali restaurant, Dadi Dining Hall (thali ₹140; hlunch & dinner), on the 1st floor. Hotel Cadillac HOTEL $ (%25507558; Advance Cinema Rd, Lal Darwaja; s/d ₹250/300, without bathroom ₹150/300) This

cheerful and cheap option, sporting a wooden balustrade, is a classic from 1934. Management vouch for the comfort of the lumpy cotton mattresses, but we remain dubious. While the street noise and squat-toilet bathrooms are not selling features, the peoplewatching balcony is.

5 Eating Ahmedabad has the best range of eating options in Gujarat and is a great place to sample the Gujarati thali. Agashiye GUJARATI $$ (%25506946; House of MG, Lal Darwaja; lunch or dinner regular/deluxe ₹395/495; hnoon-3.30pm &

STEP-WELLS: DEEP & MEANINGFUL

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The profound significance of water in the drought-prone districts of Gujarat and Rajasthan is set in stone in the step-well – vav, wav, kuva or baoli (baori in Rajasthan). These elaborate constructions are unique to northwestern India. Ancient Hindu scriptures venerate those who build communal wells. With the Indian inclination to turn the functional into works of art, sophisticated water-storage structures were developed, first by Hindus and then under the Mughals. Although the nobility considered it a religious obligation to construct these, the wells were evidently status symbols – the grandeur and artistry reflected the power and sensibility of their patrons. Often attached to temples, the wells were also meeting places, with verandahs where people could take refuge from the summer heat, and stopping places on caravan routes. Reliant on rainfall and (dropping) levels of ground water, many of the wells are now often dry, sadly neglected and full of rubbish.

7-10.45pm) This is Ahmedabad’s best dining

Green House GUJARATI $$ (House of MG, Lal Darwaja; mains ₹100-175) The

Green House is the casual front restaurant at the House of MG. Choose the fan-blasted outdoor courtyard or the AC room with a 15% surcharge. The selection of vegie Gujarati dishes is superb. Do try the house special sharbat (sherbet); and the delicate and delicious panaki, a thin crêpe cooked between banana leaves; or the divine malpuva, a sweet, deep-fried pancake in saﬀron syrup, topped with rose petals. And don’t leave without trying the hand-churned ice cream. The breakfasts (₹175 to ₹250) are pretty good too. Vishalla INDIAN $$ (%26602422; www.vishalla.com; Bye-Pass Rd; lunch ₹197, dinner ₹449; hlunch & dinner) On

the southwest outskirts of town, just oﬀ the road to Sarkhej (opposite Vasna Tol Naka), Vishalla is a magical eating experience in an open-air setting that recreates a traditional Gujarati village. You eat a copious vegetarian meal seated on the floor in rustic wooden huts, and dinner is a whole evening’s feast (7.30pm to 11pm) including entertainment of folk music and dance and puppet shows. The complex includes a fascinating utensil

museum (p677). An autorickshaw from the city centre costs about ₹100 return. Neelkanth Patang MULTICUISINE $$ (%26586200; Chinubhai Center, west end Nehru Bridge; lunch Mon-Sat ₹329, brunch Sun ₹449, dinner Mon-Fri ₹399, dinner Sat & Sun ₹449; h11am2.30pm & 7-11.30pm) For a meal with a view

the Neelkanth Patang has no rivals as it’s 50m above the ground and revolves. The multicuisine buﬀet meals are terrific and bountiful. It’s worth calling ahead to book.

Food Inn INDIAN $$ (Lal Darwaja; mains ₹85-175; hlunch & dinner) A

clean, bright and bustling curry house in the Hotel Good Night building (opposite Siddi Sayid’s Mosque) where carnivores can tuck into numerous chicken, mutton and fish dishes, including spicy Punjabi curries, lipsmackin’ tandoori, biryani and sizzlers.

Sankalp SOUTH INDIAN $ (Samir Bldg, CG Rd; mains ₹50-120) A quality

chain restaurant serving up excellent vegetarian South Indian food, Sankalp sits on a rooftop about five storeys high. Unusual fillings like pineapple or spinach-cheese-garlic are available for its renowned dosas (paperthin lentil-flour pancakes) and uttapams (thick, savoury rice pancakes) that come accompanied by seven diﬀerent sauces. Order masala papad (thin, crisp wafer with a spicy topping) for a tasty starter. Gopi Dining Hall GUJARATI $ (oﬀ Pritamraj Rd; thali ₹85-115; hlunch & dinner)

Just oﬀ the west end of Ellis Bridge, this little restaurant is a much-loved thali institution, with a small garden and an AC dining room. You can choose from ‘fix’, ‘full’ and ‘with one sweet’ options depending how hungry you are.

E ASTERN AT(A I NMGDAVA D) GUJAR AT A EGUJAR AT H MI N E DA GATB AE D

experience. On the rooftop of one of the city’s finest mansions, the lovely tiled terrace is an oasis of calm and space, candle-lit at night and a world away from the congested streets. The all-veg menu, which changes daily, begins with a welcoming drink and is a cultural journey around the traditional thali – a multitude of ravishingly tasty vegetable dishes – and finishes with hand-churned ice cream. You even get a handy leaflet on the etiquette of eating a thali. For dinner, it is advisable to book ahead.

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Zen Cafe CAFE $ (www.zencafe.info; Radhakrishnan Rd; drinks ₹25-40, snacks ₹50-100; h4-9pm Tue-Sun) This peaceful

spot in a tree-fringed garden is popular with students from Gujarat University and other colleges nearby. It’s right next to the weird Amdavad ni Gufa (Amdavad Cave), an underground art gallery which looks like a heap of octopuses with sawn-off tentacles. Offerings include panini, chocolate walnut brownies, organic coffee and capriosch mocktails – perfect icy coolers of mint, lime and soda.

Havmor ICE CREAM $ (scoops ₹15-40; h11am-11pm) Ahmedabad is fa-

mous for ice cream and locals aver that the Havmor brand, found only in Gujarat, is best. Havmor has branches all over the city including at Lal Darwaja, Khanpur Rd, Navrangpura and the Cinemasala building, Ashram Rd. Hotel ZK INDIAN, CHINESE $$ (Relief Rd, Lal Darwaja; mains ₹75-150; h9am11pm) This AC, non-veg restaurant has tinted

GUJAR AT E A S T E R N G U J A R AT

windows, low lighting and impeccable service. The chicken Afghani curry is recommended but apparently the most popular dish with the locals is the interesting-sounding chicken pesto Chinese.

Havmor Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (Stadium Complex, Navrangpura; mains ₹50-250; hnoon-10.45pm) Havmor ice-cream company

operates this AC place where Ahmedabad’s middle class congregate for a huge choice of well-prepared snacks and meals, from wraps and nachos to Italian and Indian.

TGB Cafe ‘n Bakery CAFE $ (Chinubhai Center; cakes ₹30-130; h11.30am11pm) Time you treated yourself to a Dutch

truﬄe cake or sizzling chocolate brownie with ice cream? Head to this lounge-style cafe underneath the Neelkanth Patang, at the west end of Nehru Bridge, and indulge. Real coﬀee too. The Law Garden Night Market and Manek Chowk are good for street food after about 8pm. Muslim street food is available on Bhathiyar Gali, a small street parallel to MG Rd: you can get a good meaty feed for about ₹30 from the evening stalls.

Shopping

Law Garden Night HANDICRAFTS, CLOTHING Market (Law Garden; hdusk-11pm) An evening market

packed with stalls selling glittering wares from Kachchh and Saurashtra. It’s chocka-block with fantastically decorated cholis (sari blouses) and chaniyas (long, wide traditional skirts), as well as embroidered wall hangings, costume jewellery and more.

Manek Chowk HANDICRAFTS, FOOD (Old City) This busy space and surrounding

narrow streets are the commercial heart of the old city. Weave your way through the crowds to soak up the atmosphere and browse the vegetable and sweet stalls and silver and textile shops. Gamthiwala (h11am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat), by the entrance to the Mausoleum of Ahmed Shah, sells quality block-printed textiles.

Garvi Gurjari HANDICRAFTS, CLOTHING (Ashram Rd; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) This

state-government-run outlet has three floors of Gujarat crafts including silk and handloomed-cotton saris, painted metal

SEWA The Ahmedabad-based Self-Employed Women’s Association (SEWA) is one of India’s largest trade unions and a rarity for two reasons: its members are women and they work in the informal sector (that large majority of Indian workers who do not receive the benefits of formal employment, such as hawkers, vendors and many home-based workers, labourers and domestic workers). Established in 1972 by women working on the fringes of the Ahmedabad textile industry, SEWA now has some 1.2 million members. It’s based on the notion that poor women need organisation, not aid. SEWA assists self-employed workers to organise into unions and cooperatives, so that they can control the fruits of their labours. Its approach focuses on health and childcare, literacy, appropriate housing and self-suﬃciency, and the SEWA Academy conducts leadership courses for its members. SEWA also runs a bank, provides access to legal aid and is active in the campaign for a needs-based minimum wage. The SEWA Reception Centre (%25506444; www.sewa.org; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) is at the eastern end of Ellis Bridge. It has a range of literature and visitors are welcome. SEWA’s fixed-price handicrafts are sold at Hansiba.

jewellery boxes and clothing in folksy designs. There are some good finds if you rummage around. Hansiba HANDICRAFTS (8 Chandan Complex, CG Rd; h11am-9pm MonSat, 11.30am-7.30pm Sun) The retail outlet

of SEWA, Hansiba sells colourfully woven and embroidered shawls, saris, other clothes and wall hangings.

Art Book Center BOOKSTORE (www.artbookcenter.net; off Mangaldas Rd; h10am-6pm) This specialist treasure trove

is upstairs in a brightly painted building near Ellis Bridge. Indian architecture, miniature painting and textile design are the main topics stocked.

Crossword BOOKSTORE (Shree Krishna Centre, Mithakali Six Rd; h10.30am-9pm) A large, bustling book,

music and DVD shop also boasting a Café Coffee Day.

8 Information

Medical Services Apollo City Center (% 66305800; www.apollo ahd.com; 1 Tulsibaug Society) Small but recommended private hospital opposite Doctor House, near Parimal Garden. Money For changing travellers cheques and currency, there’s State Bank of India (Lal Darwaja; h11am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-1pm Sat) opposite the local bus stand, and ICICI Bank (2/1 Popular House, Ashram Rd; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri). There are numerous ATMs: HDFC (Relief Rd, Lal Darwaja) Also off Mithakali Six Rd, Navrangpura. State Bank (Ramanial Sheth Rd) Also at Ahmedabad train station. Post Main post office (Ramanial Sheth Rd; h10am7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) Tourist Information Gujarat Tourism (%1800 2337951; www .gujarattourism.com) Ahmedabad train station (h6am-6pm Mon-Sat); Ashram Rd

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8 Getting There & Away

Air Ahmedabad’s busy airport has direct flights to nine Indian cities and, overseas, Doha (Qatar), Dubai (United Arab Emirates), Kuwait City (Kuwait), Muscat (Oman), Sharjah (United Arab Emirates) and Singapore. Domestic airlines serving Ahmedabad: Go Air (% 9223222111; www.goair.in) Indian Airlines/Air India (%25505198; www .airindia.in; Lal Darwaja) IndiGo (% 9910383838; www.goindigo.in) Jet Airways (% 022-39893333; www.jetair ways.com; Ratnanabh Complex, Ashram Rd) Kingfisher Airlines (%1800 2093030; www .flykingfisher.com; Shop No 3, Shoppers Plaza, CG Rd, Navrangpura) SpiceJet (%1800 1803333; www.spicejet.com) Many agencies sell air tickets, including Express Travels (%26588602; expresstravel@eth.net; Jivabhai chambers, oﬀ Ashram Rd). Bus Private buses from the north may drop you on Naroda Rd, about 7km northeast of the city centre – an autorickshaw will complete the journey for ₹50 to ₹60. From the ST bus stand (Sabarmati Terminal), frequent Gujarat State Road Transport Corporation (GSRTC, ST) buses go to Vadodara (Baroda; express/luxury ₹78/115, two hours), Bhavnagar (₹110/130, five hours), Junagadh (₹160/180, eight hours), Jamnagar (₹166/186, seven hours), Rajkot (express/AC ₹115/232, 4½ hours) and Bhuj (seat/sleeper ₹160/210, nine hours). Six or seven daily buses go to Udaipur (express/luxury ₹150/185, 5½ hours). A Volvo AC bus departs at 7pm for Udaipur (₹395), Jaipur (₹985) and Delhi (₹1585, 20 hours). For long distances, private buses are mostly quicker; most oﬃces are close to Paldi Char Rasta. Patel Tours & Travels (www.pateltours andtravels.com; 8 Shroff Chambers) Runs Volvo AC buses to Rajkot (₹300, four hours, 18 daily), Jamnagar (₹400, six hours, nine daily) and Mumbai (seat/sleeper ₹600/800, 11 hours, 7.30pm), plus non-AC buses to Mumbai (seat/sleeper ₹400/500, 6pm and 10pm) and

E ASTERN ATB A8 D (A M DAVA D) GUJAR AT A 8GUJAR H M E DA

Internet Access Cyberpoint (Shree Krishna Centre, Mithakali Six Rd; per hr ₹20; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun) Behind Crossword bookstore. Relief Cyber Café (Relief Rd; per hr ₹20; h9.30am-12.30am) It’s air-conditioned, what a relief!

(%26578044/5/6; HK House, opposite Bata showroom, off Ashram Rd; h8am-8pm) The very helpful HK House office has all sorts of information at its fingertips and you can also hire cars with drivers here. Tourism Desk (%32520878; Law Garden; h10.30am-8.30pm) Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation’s office has a few publications and can answer some questions.

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six daily buses to Bhuj (seat/sleeper non-AC ₹220/320, AC ₹270/370, eight hours). Raj Express (8 Kanth Complex) Runs Volvo AC buses to Udaipur (₹350, five hours, 6.45am and 2pm) and non-AC buses to Jaipur (seat/ sleeper ₹300/400, 12 hours, four daily). Gujarat Travels (www.gujarattravels.co.in; 1 Medicine Market) Has buses to Mt Abu (seat/ sleeper ₹220/300, seven hours, three daily). Shree Swaminarayan (22 Anilkunj Complex) Heads to Diu (seat/sleeper ₹200/280, 10 hours, 10.30pm and 2.30am). Train There’s a computerised booking oﬃce (h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) just outside Ahmedabad train station. Window 6 handles the foreign-tourist quota. Computerised booking is also available at the relatively quiet Gandhigram station, although there is no window dedicated to foreigners.

8 Getting Around

GUJAR AT E A S T E R N G U J A R AT

To/From the Airport The airport is 8km north of the centre; a prepaid taxi should cost around ₹300 depending on your destination. An autorickshaw costs about ₹150 to the old city. A cheaper option is bus 105 to/ from Lal Darwaja (₹10).

Autorickshaw Autorickshaw drivers are supposed to turn their meter to zero at the start of a trip then calculate the fare using a conversion chart at the end. They should cost ₹7 per kilometre.

Around Ahmedabad Trips to destinations to the northwest and southwest of the city can be extended with a visit to the Wild Ass Sanctuary (p716). ADALAJ VAV

Adalaj Vav, 19km north of Ahmedabad, is among the finest of the Gujarati step-wells. Built by Queen Rudabai in 1499, it has three entrances leading to a huge platform that rests on 16 pillars, with corners marked by shrines. The octagonal well is five storeys deep and is decorated with exquisite stone carvings; subjects range from eroticism to buttermilk. The Gandhinagar bus will get you within walking distance (ask the conductor where to get oﬀ ). An autorickshaw costs ₹300 return. GANDHINAGAR

With broad avenues and greenery, Gandhinagar forms a striking contrast to Ahmed-

MAJOR TRAINS FROM AHMEDABAD DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

DEPARTURE

DURATION (HR)

FARE (₹)

Bhavnagar

12971 BandraBhavnagar Exp

5.45am

182/442/584 (A)

Bhuj

19115 Bandra-Bhuj Exp

11.59pm

7¾

180/462/624 (A) 1230/1615/2680 (B)

Delhi

12957 Rajdhani

5.25pm

12915 Ashram Exp

5.45pm

16½

353/924/1253/2106 (C)

Jamnagar

19005 Saurashtra Mail

5.15am

174/445/601/1005 (C)

Junagadh

19221 Somnath Exp

10pm

6½

177/454/613 (A)

Mumbai (Bombay)

12010 Shatabdi

2.30pm (Mon-Sat)

715/1350 (D)

12902 Gujarat Mail

10pm

8¾

242/609/817/1375 (C)

19944 AhmedabadUdaipur Exp

11pm

162/554 (E)

2.30pm (Mon-Sat)

1¾

305/570 (D)

Udaipur

Vadodara (Baroda) 12010 Shatabdi

Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC/2AC, (B) 3AC/2AC/1AC, (C) sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC, (D) AC chair/1AC, (E) sleeper/2AC

NALSAROVAR BIRD SANCTUARY This 121-sq-km sanctuary (Indian/foreigner ₹30/250, car ₹20, camera/video ₹50/2500),

around 60km southwest of Ahmedabad, comprises Nalsarovar Lake, a flood of island-dotted blue dissolving into the sky and iron-flat plains, and its surrounding wetlands. Between November and February, the sanctuary sees flocks of indigenous and migratory birds with as many as 250 species passing through. Ducks, geese, eagles, spoonbills, cranes, pelicans and flamingos are best seen early in the morning (aim for 5.30am) and the evening. The sanctuary is busiest at weekends and on holidays. To see the birds it’s best to hire a boat (around ₹1000, negotiable, for a full day). Gujarat Tourism runs a group of podlike cottages (%02715-245083; s/d ₹300/400, with AC ₹450/650; a) 1.5km from the lake. Buses (₹30, two hours) run from Ahmedabad’s ST bus stand at 7am, 12.15pm and 5pm. A taxi (around ₹1500 for a day trip from Ahmedabad) is an easier option, and gives you the option of combining Nalsarovar with Lothal (40km south).

LOTHAL

About 80km southwest of Ahmedabad, this important archaeological site (admission free; hdawn-dusk) was discovered in 1954. The city that stood here 4500 years ago was one of the most important of the Indus Valley civilisation, with similarities to Moenjodaro and Harappa in Pakistan. The site has no dramatic buildings but rather a set of scattered, low structures, so it’s really one for archaeology buﬀs. Excavations have revealed, among other things, a tidal dockyard (the world’s oldest known artificial dock) that was connected to an old course of the Sabarmati River and thus to the Gulf of Cambay. Seals discovered at the site suggest that trade may have been conducted with the civilisations of Mesopotamia, Egypt and Persia. The site museum (Indian/foreigner ₹2/50; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu) displays fragments of this well-ordered civilisation, such as intricate seals, weights and measures, games and jewellery, plus an artist’s impression of how Lothal looked at its peak.

Palace Utelia (%02714-262222; r from ₹3000), 7km from the site, by the Bhugavo

River, is an imposing palace – complete with aged retainers – that dwarfs the village it oversees. The shabby rooms are overpriced, but it’s an unusual place with some charm if not comfort. Lothal is a long day trip from Ahmedabad, and a taxi (around ₹1500 return) is the easiest bet. Buses heading for Sayla or Rajkot can drop you at Bagodra (₹35, 1½ hours), where you should be able to find an autorickshaw, taxi or jeep to the site, 18km south. Trains from Ahmedabad’s Gandhigram station at 7.15am and 9am run to Lothal-Bhurkhi station (2nd-class ₹45, two hours), 6km from the site, from where you can catch a bus. Take water and food with you.

MODHERA

The beautiful Sun Temple (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h9am-5pm) was built in 1026 and 1027 by King Bhimdev I and is one of the greatest monuments of the Solanki dynasty, whose rulers were believed to be descended from the sun. Like the better-known Sun Temple at Konark in Odisha (Orissa), which it predates by 200 years, the Modhera temple was designed so that the dawn sun shone on the image of Surya, the sun god, during the equinox. Though it was sacked by invading Delhi sultan Ala-ud-Din Khilji around 1300, losing its main spire, it remains impressive. The main hall and shrine

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abad. This is where state politicians live in large, fortified houses. Although Ahmedabad became Gujarat’s capital when the old state of Bombay was split, this new capital was planned 28km north on the west bank of the Sabarmati River. Named Gandhinagar after Mahatma Gandhi, it’s India’s second planned city after Chandigarh. The secretariat was moved here in 1970. The best reason for visiting is the spectacular Akshardham (www.akshardham.com; J Rd, Sector 20; h9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun), belonging to the wealthy Hindu Swaminarayan group. The elaborately carved main temple, built by nearly 1000 artisans and opened in 1992, is constructed of 6000 tonnes of pink sandstone and surrounded by manicured gardens. Three underground exhibition areas (admission ₹50; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) have hi-tech multimedia presentations on the Swaminarayan movement, the Hindu epics and other religions. At sunset (every day except Monday) a 45-minute Water Show (adult/child ₹75/50) presents the story of the Upanishads through fountains, music, fire and lasers and promises to reveal the secret of life after death. Buses to Gandhinagar (₹18, 45 minutes, every 15 minutes) depart from the back northwest corner of Lal Darwaja and from the numerous stops along Ashram Rd.

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GUJAR AT E A S T E R N G U J A R AT

are reached through a pillared pavilion. The temple exterior is intricately carved with demons and deities. Within, 52 sculpted pillars depict scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, and a hall with 12 niches represents Surya’s diﬀerent monthly manifestations. Erotic sculpture panels complete the sensual decoration. The temple is fronted by the Surya Kund, an extraordinary rectangular step-well that contains over 100 shrines, resembling a sunken art gallery. Around 20 January, the temple is the scene for a three-day classical dance festival with dancers from all over India. Modhera is 100km northwest of Ahmedabad. You can take a bus (₹59, two hours, half-hourly) from Ahmedabad’s ST bus stand to Mahesana (Mehsana), and then another bus 26km west to Modhera (₹30, one hour). There are also trains from Ahmedabad to Mahesana. Buses run from Modhera to Patan (₹35, 1¼ hours) every 30 minutes till around 4pm. There are also two daily buses to/from Zainabad (₹45, 1½ hours). A taxi from Ahmedabad will cost about ₹1500 round-trip. PATAN

% 02766 / POP 112,038

About 130km northwest of Ahmedabad, Patan was Gujarat’s capital for six centuries before Ahmedabad was founded in 1411. It was ruined by the armies of Ala-ud-Din Khilji around 1300, and today is a dusty, littlevisited town with narrow streets lined by elaborate wooden houses. The only real sign of its former glory is the Rani-ki-Vav (Indian/ foreigner ₹5/100; h9am-5pm), an astoundingly beautiful step-well, incongruously grand in this unassuming town. Built in 1063 by Rani Udayamati to commemorate her husband, Bhimdev I, the step-well is the oldest and finest in Gujarat and is remarkably well preserved – it was protected by centuries of silt before being excavated and restored between the 1960s and 1980s. Steps lead down through multiple levels with lines of carved pillars and over 800 sculptures, mostly on Vishnu-avatar themes. Patan also has more than 100 Jain temples, the largest of which is Panchasara Parshvanath, and is famed for its beautiful Patola silk textiles produced by the torturously laborious double-ikat method. Both the warp (lengthways) and weft (transverse) threads are painstakingly tie-dyed to create the pattern before the weaving process

begins. It takes about six months to make one sari, which might cost ₹100,000. To see double-ikat being made visit the Salvi family at Patan Patola Heritage (%232274; www .patanpatola.com; Salvivado, Patolawala St). The new, clean and friendly Surya Pal-

ace Hotel (%329872; Yash Plaza, University Rd; s/d ₹400/500, AC from ₹700/800; a), near the train station, is the best bet for rooms. Anand Restaurant (Kilachand Shopping Centre; mains ₹40-70) has good thalis and à la carte dishes.

Patan is 40km northwest of Mahesana. Buses leave Ahmedabad’s ST bus stand about every hour (₹78, 3½ hours). There are also buses to/from Zainabad (₹65, 2½ hours, two daily), via Modhera.

Vadodara (Baroda) % 0265 / POP 1.49 MILLION

Vadodara (or Baroda as it’s often known) lies 106km southeast of Ahmedabad, little over an hour’s drive along National Expressway 1. Vadodara has some interesting city sights, but the main reason for coming here is the stunning nearby Unesco World Heritage Site of Champaner and Pavagadh. After the Marathas expelled the Mughals from Gujarat in the 18th century, their local lieutenants, the Gaekwad clan, made Vadodara their capital. Vadodara retained a high degree of autonomy even under the British,

NAVRATRI & DUSSEHRA Navratri (Festival of Nine Nights) is celebrated in September or October Indiawide, but Gujarat has made it its own. The festival celebrates feminine divinity in the forms of the goddesses Durga, Lakshmi and Saraswati. Celebrations centre on special shrines at junctions, marketplaces and, increasingly today, large venues that can accommodate thousands. People dress up in sparkling finery to whirl the night away in entrancing garba or dandiya circle dances till the early hours. Navratri is celebrated in every town and village in Gujarat and it’s a festival where you may well find yourself joining in. The night after Navratri is Dussehra, which celebrates the victory of Durga and Rama over the demon king Ravana, with more nocturnal dancing and fireworks.

right up to Independence in 1947. Maharaja Sayajirao III (1875–1939) was a great moderniser and laid the foundations of Vadodara’s modern reputation as Gujarat’s cultural capital.

1 Sights Sayaji Bagh

PARK, MUSEUM

Within this shady park is the Baroda Mu-

seum & Picture Gallery (Indian/foreigner ₹10/200; h10.30am-5pm), which houses a

diverse collection, much of it gathered by Sayajirao III, including statues and carvings from several Asian regions, an Egyptian room and some rather mangy zoology exhibits. The gallery has lovely Mughal miniatures and a motley crew of European masters.

FTambekar Wada

HISTORIC BUILDING

Laxmi Vilas Palace PALACE (Nehru Rd; audio tour ₹125; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Still the residence of Vadodara’s royal family, Laxmi Vilas was built in full-throttle 19th-century Indo-Saracenic flourish by Major Charles ‘Mad’ Mant for Sayajirao III at a cost of ₹6 million. It’s set in expansive parklike grounds. The audio tour lets you have a leisurely stickybeak at the palace’s elaborate interiors with their mosaics, chandeliers, artworks and jarokhas (projecting balcony-windows).

4 Sleeping The main cluster of hotels is in the conveniently central Sayajigunj area. Sapphire Regency HOTEL $$ (%2361130; www.sapphireregency.com; Sayajigunj; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1400/1800; aW) New

in 2009, the Sapphire Regency has the best rooms in Vadodara for its price range. Looking and smelling fresh, it has a contemporary minimalist style with white walls and tiles and brown furniture and doors. Room size increases as you move up the price categories. Hotel Ambassador HOTEL $$ (%2362727; www.hotelambassadorindia.com; Sayajigunj; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1100/1400; aW)

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Hotel Surya HOTEL $$ (%2361361; www.hotelsurya.com; Sayajigunj; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1700/1900; aiW) Surya is

a popular choice, with a cordial atmosphere and professional staﬀ. Rooms are clean, though not particularly big or modern, and the mattresses are on the firmer side of hard. Two excellent restaurants, Vega and Myra, flank the reception.

Hotel Valiant HOTEL $$ (%2363480; www.hotelvaliant.com; 7th fl, BBC Tower, Sayajigunj; s/d ₹600/775, with AC from ₹850/1025; ai) The Valiant has surprisingly fresh

rooms on the upper floors of a high-rise building. Take the lift up from the street entrance to find reception in a spacious lobby on the 7th floor. The rooms are clean, well presented and good value, and checkout is 24 hours. Hotel Express Towers HOTEL (%3055000; www.expressworld.com; RC Dutt Rd; s economy ₹1990, s/d incl breakfast from ₹3200/4000; aiW) A good choice about

1km west of the train station, with business-minded rooms, a wine shop and two very good restaurants.

WelcomHotel Vadodara HOTEL $$$ (%2330033; www.itcwelcomgroup.in; RC Dutt Rd; s/d from ₹8000/9000; aiWs) A swish

five-star complex with predictable, wellappointed rooms, an unusual outdoor pool, plenty of cool lounge areas, an expensive 24-hour multicuisine restaurant and a wine shop.

Apsara Hotel HOTEL (%2225399; Sayajigunj; s/d ₹250/450) This

budget place with a leafy little front yard is friendly and welcoming, although the rooms are small and a bit grubby (those upstairs are marginally brighter).

5 Eating

Kansaar GUJARATI $ (101 Unique Trade Centre, Sayajigunj; thali ₹130; h11am-3pm & 7-10.15pm) A classy veg thali joint

on the 1st floor (behind the ‘Kadahi Punjabi’ sign), with impeccable service and delicious food; the thali is bottomless and you can eat inside or out on the terrace for the street view.

E ASTERN GUJAR AT VA SGUJAR I GDHOTDA SAT R AS I(GBHATRSO DA)

(Pratap Rd, Raopura; h8am-6pm) This wooden multi-storeyed townhouse is a typical Maratha mansion, once the residence of Bhau Tambekar, diwan of Baroda (1849–54). Inside are beautiful 19th-century murals featuring scenes from the Mahabharata, Krishna’s life and the 19th-century Anglo-Maratha War. It was due to reopen in 2011 after restoration.

Newly renovated and jazzed up, the Ambassador oﬀers very good value. The cheapest (‘deluxe’) rooms have a vaguely Japanese air, while the ‘executive’ quarters have a slick contemporary feel, all pinks, oranges, squares and rectangles. There’s civilised 24hour checkout too.

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GUJAR AT E A S T E R N G U J A R AT

This small Italian ristorante e pizzeria serves excellent veg pizza, and so-so veg pasta. With a Sistine Chapel ceiling and redgreen-and-white aproned waiters, it is an almost-convincing slice of the Continent on the subcontinent. Mandap GUJARATI $$ (Hotel Express Towers, RC Dutt Rd; thali ₹200; h12.30-2.45pm & 7.30-10.45pm) One the best

thalis in town, served in a splendidly decorated room with a desert-tent interior. Vega MULTICUISINE (Hotel Surya, Sayajigunj; mains ₹100-170)

Comfortable Vega serves decent Chinese, Indian, Thai and Italian fare. Kalyan SOUTH INDIAN, FAST FOOD $ (Sayajigunj; dishes ₹40-100) Kalyan is a breezy

student hang-out serving healthy portions of South Indian food and less healthy attempts at Western fast food (though all dishes are vegetarian).

Shopping

Baroda Prints HANDICRAFTS (h10am-8pm) Aries Complex (3 Aries Complex, Productivity Rd); Salatwada (Main Rd, Salatwada) A

shop selling hand-printed dress materials in original, colourful and attractive designs. In the Salatwada store you can see the printers at work in the back room.

8 Information

There are State Bank and Bank of India ATMs at the train station, an SBI ATM on RC Dutt Rd, and Bank of Baroda and ICICI ATMs in Sayajigunj.

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Gujarat Tourism (%2427489; Block C, Narmada Bhavan, Indira Ave; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month) On the ground floor of a red and yellowy-white nine-storey building and not well signed. Unless you want to organise a tour or get brochures, this office is rather disappointing. ICICI Bank (Sayajigunj) As well as the ATM, it changes travellers cheques and cash. Speedy Cyber Cafe (Sayajigunj; per hr ₹20; h8am-10pm)

8 Getting There & Away

Air The airport is 4km northeast of the centre. Jet Airways (% 022-39893333; www.jetairways. com; 11 Panorama Bldg, RC Dutt RD) and IndiGo (www.goindogo.com) fly to Mumbai and Delhi (Jet has several flights daily); Indian Airlines (%2794747; www.indian-airlines.nic.in; AG Chambers, Fatehganj) has an evening flight to Delhi. Bus The ST bus stand is about 300m north of the train station, with buses to many destinations in Gujarat and neighbourng states including Ahmedabad (ordinary/deluxe ₹65/100, two hours, at least hourly), Bhavnagar (express ₹150, five hours, about hourly from 6am), Diu (deluxe ₹179, 12 hours, 6pm, 9pm and 10pm), Mumbai (deluxe ₹275, nine hours, 6pm, 7pm and 7.30pm) and Udaipur (₹195, eight hours, four daily). Many private bus companies have oﬃces nearby, including BGTS Travel House, with Volvo AC buses to Mumbai (seat/sleeper ₹900/1000, eight hours, 8.30pm, 8.45pm, 9.30pm and 11.30pm), and three buses to Udaipur (seat/sleeper ₹300/400) all leaving at 8.30pm.

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Vadodara (Baroda) æ Top Sights Baroda Museum & Picture Gallery........C1 Laxmi Vilas Palace................................. C2 Tambekar Wada .................................... C2

Vega ................................................. (see 1) þ Shopping 7 Baroda Prints.......................................... A1 8 Baroda Prints..........................................C2

ÿ Sleeping 1 Apsara Hotel ...........................................B1 2 Hotel Ambassador..................................B1 Hotel Surya ......................................(see 1) 3 Hotel Valiant............................................B1 4 Sapphire Regency ..................................B1

Information Bank of Baroda ATM...................... (see 4) 9 Gujarat Tourism .....................................C2 ICICI................................................. (see 4) Speedy Cyber Cafe ........................ (see 6)

ú Eating 5 Kalyan......................................................B1 6 Kansaar ...................................................B1 Pizza Meo ........................................ (see 5)

Transport 10 BGTS Travel House................................ B1 11 Local Bus Stand ..................................... B1 12 ST Bus Stand.......................................... B1

Around Vadodara CHAMPANER & PAVAGADH

This spectacular Unesco World Heritage Site, 47km northeast of Vadodara, combines a sacred, 762m volcanic hill (Pavagadh), looking like a chunk of the Himalaya dumped on the plain, and a ruined Gujarati capital with beautiful mosque architecture (Champaner). Pavagadh may have been fortified as early as the 8th century; it became the capital of the Chauhan Rajputs around 1300 and was taken by the Gujarat sultan Mahmud Begada, after a 20-month siege, in 1484 (the Rajputs committed jauhar – ritual mass suicide – in the face of defeat). Mahmud Begada turned Champaner, at the base of the hill, into a splendid new capital. But its glory was brief: when it was captured by Mughal emperor Humayun in 1535, the Gujarati capital reverted to Ahmedabad, and Champaner fell into ruin. Hindu and Jain pilgrims, however, continue to this day to climb to the temples atop Pavagadh. The heart of Champaner (Indian/foreigner ₹10/250; h8am-6pm) is the Citadel, a rectangular area nearly 1km long, surrounded by high stone walls and now partly occupied by

a village. A 6km-long outer wall enclosed the rest of the city. Champaner’s most stunning features are its monumental mosques (no longer used for worship), with their beautiful blending of Islamic and Hindu decoration styles – above all the huge Jami Masjid, just outside the Citadel’s east gate. Here a wonderful carved entrance porch leads into a lovely courtyard surrounded by a pillared corridor. The prayer hall has two tall central minarets, further superb stone carving, multiple domes, and seven mihrabs (prayer niches) along the back wall. Other beautiful mosques include the Saher ki Masjid, behind the ticket oﬃce inside the Citadel, which was probably the private royal mosque, and the Kevda Masjid, 300m north of the Citadel and about 600m west of the Jami Masjid. Here you can climb narrow stairs to the roof, and higher up the minarets, to spot other mosques even further out into the countryside – Nagina Masjid, 500m north, with no minarets but exquisite geometric carving, and Lila Gumbaj ki Masjid, 800m east, on a high platform and with a fluted central dome. The twin minarets resembling factory chimneys, about 1km west, adorn the Brick Minar ki Masjid, a rare brick tomb. To ascend Pavagadh, you can either walk up the pilgrim trail, which will take two to three hours, or you can take a shuttle bus (₹10) from opposite the Citadel’s south gate. The bus deposits you about halfway up the hill, where you can either join the walking path (here lined by souvenir and drink stalls), or hop on the Ropeway (cable car; return ₹98; h7am-11pm) which glides you up

E ASTERN 8 D O DA R A GUJAR AT A 8GUJAR R O U NAT D VA

Train About 30 trains a day run to Ahmedabad, including the 12009 Shatabdi at 11.20am Monday to Saturday (AC chair/1AC ₹335/610, two hours). The 13 daily trains to Mumbai include the 12010 Shatabdi at 4.17pm Monday to Saturday (AC chair/1AC ₹625/1170, 5¼ hours).

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to within a 700m walk of the Kalikamata Temple on the hill’s summit. The first ver-

sion of this temple to Kali, an evil-destroying incarnation of the mother goddess, was built in the 10th or 11th century. The temple attracts a steady stream of pilgrims, especially during the nine days of Navratri (September/October) and the month-long Mahakali Festival (March/April). Near the top of the hill are also Pavagadh’s oldest surviving monument, the 10th- to 11th-century Hindu Lakulisha Temple, and several Jain temples. The views are fantastic and so, if you’re lucky, are the cooling breezes.

Hotel Champaner (%02676-293041; s/d ₹350/500, with AC ₹700/1000; a), near the

foot of the Ropeway, has typically state-run rooms that are plain and basic, but all have balconies with superb views. Buses to Champaner run about every half-hour from Vadodara (₹45, two hours); a return taxi costs around ₹700.

of them retain a core of narrow old streets crowded with small-scale commerce. Outside the cities it’s still villages, fields, forests and a timeless, almost feudal feel, with farmers dressed head to toe in white and rural women as colourful as their sisters in Rajasthan. Saurashtra is mainly flat and its rare hills are often sacred – including the spectacular, temple-topped Shatrunjaya and Girnar. The peninsula is liberally endowed with wildlife sanctuaries, notably Sasan Gir, where Asia’s last wild lions roam. On the south coast lies the very quaint, laid-back ex-Portuguese island enclave of Diu. Saurashtra is also where Mahatma Gandhi was born and raised: you can visit several sites associated with the great man. Saurashtra has a reputation for being fond of its sleep, and siesta takes place from at least 1pm to 3pm.

Bhavnagar GUJAR AT S AU R A S H T R A

South of Vadodara Gujarat stretches some 240km south from Vadodara to the border of Maharashtra, 150km short of Mumbai. Surat, 140km south of Vadodara, is where the British established their first Indian settlement in 1614. It’s now Gujarat’s hectic second-biggest city (population 5 million), a busy commercial centre for textiles and diamonds. Around 40km south of Surat is Dandi, the destination of Gandhi’s epic Salt March in 1930, with several Gandhi monuments by its strikingly empty beach. Just before the Maharashtra border is the ex-Portuguese enclave of Daman, an alcohol-infused resort town on a grey sea. Though it still retains a little of the piquancy of old Portugal, Daman is far less attractive than its counterpart Diu in Saurashtra. In the southeast, the hilly Dangs district is the northern extremity of the Western Ghats, with a large tribal population and little tourist infrastructure. The main town is the minor hill resort of Saputara. The Dangs Darbar (February/March), in the week before Holi, is a spectacular, largely touristfree tribal festival.

SAURASHTRA Before Independence, Saurashtra, also known as the Kathiawar Peninsula, was a jumble of over 200 princely states. Today it has a number of hectic industrial cities, but most

% 0278 / POP 510,958

Bhavnagar is a hectic, sprawling industrial centre with a colourful old core, that makes a base for journeys to nearby Shatrunjaya and Blackbuck National Park. Founded in 1743 and always a cotton-trading town, Bhavnagar supplements its income today through diamonds, plastics – and ship parts: Alang, 70km south, is the world’s biggest shipbreaking site, with thousands of workers dismantling dozens of vessels, from supertankers down, by hand. Alang attracts controversy over its working conditions, health risks and pollution: the only way in is by invitation from a company operating there.

1 Sights & Activities Mahatma Gandhi attended university in Bhavnagar, and the dusty Gandhi Smriti

Museum (admission free; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month), by the

clock tower, has a multitude of Gandhi photographs and documents. Explanatory material is in Hindi only. Downstairs, the equally dusty Barton Museum (Indian/foreigner ₹2/50; hsame), has religious carvings, betelnut cutters, and a skeleton in a cupboard. The old city, north of Ganga Jalia Tank, is worth a wander, especially in the evening – it’s busy with small shops and cluttered with dilapidated elaborate wooden buildings leaning over the colourful crowded bazaars. Takhteshwar Temple sits on a small hillock high enough to provide splendid views over the city and out onto the Gulf of Cambay.

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4 Sleeping The budget hotels, mostly in the old city and near the train station, are fairly grim, but midrange hotels are reasonable. Hotel Sun ‘n’ Shine HOTEL $$ (%2516131; Panwadi Chowk, ST Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1600/1800; aiW) This well-run,

three-star hotel is excellent value. It has a Mediterranean-inspired and vertigo-inducing atrium, a very welcoming front desk, and the recommended RGB restaurant. The rooms are fresh and clean with comfortable beds: the more you pay, the more windows you get. The breakfast is substantial, and free airport transfers are oﬀered. Narayani Heritage HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%2513535; narayaniheritage@gmail.com; Dairy Rd; s/d ₹1200/1600; as) This hotel occupies a

former administrative building in the royal compound of Nilambag Palace Hotel and styles itself a ‘budget heritage hotel’. The bright, spacious rooms are tastefully decorated and good value. Though they don’t have the atmosphere of the palace they do share its dining room, pool, gym and tennis court. Nilambag Palace Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%2424241; www.nilambagpalace.com; s/d cottage room ₹1500/2100, palace room ₹2500/4000;

Bhavnagar æ Top Sights Gandhi Smriti Museum .......................D2 Takhteshwar Temple ..........................C3 æ Sights 1 Barton Museum...................................D2 ÿ Sleeping 2 Hotel Apollo..........................................A2 3 Hotel Sun 'n' Shine ..............................A2 ú Eating 4 Rasoi .....................................................C2 RGB Restaurant........................... (see 3) 5 Sankalp.................................................C3 6 Tulsi Restaurant ..................................C3 Information 7 Forest Office ........................................A3 Transport 8 Jet Airways...........................................C3 9 ST Bus Stand .......................................A2 10 Tanna Travels ......................................C3

ais) In large gardens beside the Ahmedabad road, about 600m southwest of the bus station, this former maharaja’s palace was built in 1859. It looks rather stern from

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outside, but has a more personal feel inside. The ‘cottage’ rooms are good-sized but rather bare; the palace rooms are much nicer and bigger, in a stately early-20th-century style. Guests have use of a circular swimming

pool (nonguests ₹100; h7am-noon & 3-8pm Tue-Sun) in the Vijay Mahal in the extensive

grounds, plus a gym and tennis facilities.

Hotel Apollo HOTEL $$ (%2425251; www.thehotelapollo.com; ST Rd; s/d ₹500/800, with AC from ₹1100/1250; a) Bare

but quite spacious rooms.

5 Eating

Tulsi Restaurant INDIAN, CHINESE $ (Kalanala Chowk; mains ₹60-80; hlunch & dinner)

Low-lit with plants and understated decor, this cosy and clean place with well-prepared Punjabi and Chinese veg dishes is rightly popular. Service is friendly and eﬃcient, and it’s excellent value.

GUJAR AT S AU R A S H T R A

Rasoi INDIAN, CHINESE $ (mains ₹50-70, thali ₹120; h11.30am-3.15pm & 6-11pm) This secluded bungalow and (in the

evening) garden restaurant serves up great unlimited Gujarati thalis, as well as Punjabi and Chinese veg fare. It’s behind the police post between two petrol stations just north of the Galaxy Cinema. RGB Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (Hotel Sun ‘n’ Shine, Panwadi Chowk, ST Rd; mains ₹100-130) Cool, cosy, vegetarian, hotel res-

taurant offering generous serves of Jain, North Indian and Chinese.

Sankalp SOUTH INDIAN (Waghawadi Rd; mains ₹50-120; h11am-11pm)

First-class South Indian vegetarian dishes in clean, contemporary surroundings.

8 Information

State Bank of India (Darbargadh; h10.30am4.30pm Mon-Fri) Changes cash and travellers cheques and has a 24-hour ATM and a lovely, ornately carved, old-city portico. Other ATMs include State Bank and HDFC near Tulsi Restaurant.

8 Getting There & Around

AIR Jet Airways (%2433371; www.jetairways .com; Surat House, Waghawadi Rd) and Kingfisher (%1800 2093030; www.flykingfisher. com) have daily flights to and from Mumbai. A taxi to or from the airport costs around ₹100. BUS From the ST bus stand there are buses for Diu (₹115 to ₹122, seven hours, four daily), Rajkot (₹93 to ₹100, four hours, 12 daily) and

Ahmedabad (₹100 to ₹108, five hours, 13 daily). Private bus companies include Tanna Travels (Waghawadi Rd), with AC buses to Ahmedabad (₹150, four hours, 15 daily), Vadodara (₹170, four hours, seven daily) and Mumbai (₹700, 13 hours, 4pm). TRAIN The 12972 Bhavnagar-Bandra Express departs at 8.30pm and arrives at Ahmedabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹182/442/584) at 1.55am.

Around Bhavnagar BLACKBUCK NATIONAL PARK This beautiful, 34-sq-km park (Indian/foreigner car ₹200/1000, 4hr guide ₹50/500; hdawndusk 16 Oct-15 Jun), north of Bhavnagar,

encompasses large areas of pale, custardcoloured grassland stretching between two seasonal rivers. Formerly called Velavadar National Park, it’s famous for its blackbucks, beautiful, fast antelopes which sport elegant spiralling horns – as long as 65cm in mature males. Some 1600 inhabit the park, which is also good for spotting birds such as wintering harriers from Siberia (about 2000 of them most years). The park has a good road network and is best explored by car. Pay your fees and pick up a guide (who is unlikely to speak English) at the reception centre about 65km from Bhavnagar, north of Valabhipur. You can book accommodation in the fourroom Forest Department Guest House (Indian/foreigner d ₹500/2500, with AC ₹1500/3750), by the reception centre, through the Forest Office (%0278-2426425; F-10, Annexe, MS h11am-5pm Mon-Fri) in Bhavnagar. The

Bldg;

very comfortable stone-built villas of Blackbuck

Lodge (%9824019877, 079-40020901; www.the blackbucklodge.com; s/d incl all meals ₹3000/5300)

are just outside the park’s western entrance. A taxi day trip from Bhavnagar costs about ₹2000.

Palitana % 02848 / POP 51,934

The hustling, dusty town of Palitana, 51km southwest of Bhavnagar, has grown rapidly to serve the pilgrim trade around Shatrunjaya. Your best bet for general information is the helpful manager at Hotel Shravak.

1 Sights & Activities

Shatrunjaya SACRED SITE (Place of Victory; htemples 6.30am-6pm) One of

Jainism’s holiest pilgrimage sites, Shatrun-

Shri Vishal Jain Museum (admission ₹10; h8am-8.30pm), 500m down the street from

the foot of the Shatrunjaya steps, exhibits assorted Jain artwork and artefacts up to 500 years old. In the basement is a surprising circular temple with mirror walls and centuries-old images of four tirthankars.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Vijay Vilas Adpur HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%282371, 9427182809; vishwa_adpur@yahoo. co.in; Adpur village; s/d incl breakfast ₹2000/3000; a) Vijay Vilas sits in deep, beautiful coun-

tryside beneath the western end of Shatrunjaya, 11km west of Palitana. It’s a small 1906

palace with six large, plain but nicely decorated rooms, with original furniture. Three have terraces/balconies looking towards Shatrunjaya – which can be climbed from here by a slightly shorter, steeper path (2700 steps) than the one from Palitana. Vijay Vilas is family-run, with delicious home-cooked food (a mix of Gujarati and Rajasthani, veg and non-veg). You can also just pop in for lunch (₹300) – it’s best to call first.

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Hotel Shravak HOTEL $ (%252428; s/d/tr/q ₹100/300/400/500) The

ultrabasic rooms at the friendly Shravak, opposite the bus stand, are the best bet in Palitana itself. They’re shabby but clean; doubles are better than singles for space. Showers are unheated: buckets of hot water are available from 5am to 10am.

Hotel Sumeru HOTEL $ (%252327; Station Rd; men-only dm ₹75, s/d ₹300/400, with AC ₹683/945; a) This dowdy

Gujarat Tourism establishment is 200m towards the station from the bus stand. Rooms are rundown, but the upstairs ones have balconies, and there’s a restaurant.

Jagruti Restaurant INDIAN $ (thali ₹30, mains ₹30-50; h10am-10pm) Across

the laneway from Hotel Shravak, Jagruti is a wildly busy thali house.

8 Getting There & Away

Plenty of ST buses run to/from Bhavnagar (₹25, 1½ hours, every half-hour) and Ahmedabad (₹120, five hours, hourly). For Diu, take a bus to

SHATRUNJAYA PRACTICALITIES It’s best to start the ascent around dawn so you can climb before it gets too hot. You should be properly dressed (no shorts etc). Leave behind leather items, including belts and bags, and don’t take any food or drinks inside the temples. Water (not bottled) can be bought at intervals on the ascent. If you wish, you can be carried up and down the hill in a dholi (portable chair with two bearers), for about ₹1000 round-trip. Photo permits (₹100) must be obtained before you start the climb, from an oﬃce on the left just before the foot of the steps.

SAUR ASHTR SPLI N E EA &I N E AT GUJAR AT PA S L EA L EI TA GP&I NEGAT G ING

jaya is an incredible hilltop sea of temples, built over 900 years on a plateau dedicated to the gods. The temples are grouped into tunks (enclosures), each with a central temple and many minor ones. Some of the earliest were built in the 11th century, but were destroyed by Muslim attackers in the 14th and 15th centuries; the current temples date from the 16th century onwards. The 500m climb up 3300 steps to the temples adds to the extraordinary experience and takes most people about 1½ hours. The steps start on the southwest edge of Palitana about 3.5km from the bus stand (₹20 by autorickshaw). Pilgrims make the climb in their hundreds most days, and in thousands around Kartik Purnima, in November or December. As you near the top of the hill, the track forks. The main entrance, Ram Pole, is reached by taking the left-hand fork. To see the best views over the site first, take the right-hand fork. There are superb views in all directions; on a clear day you can see the Gulf of Cambay. Inside the Nav Tonk Gate, one path leads left to the Muslim shrine of Angar Pir, where women who want children make oﬀerings of miniature cradles. The Muslim saint protected the temples from a Mughal attack. To the right, the second tunk you reach is the Chaumukhji Tunk, containing the Chaumukh (FourFaced Shrine), built in 1618 by a wealthy Jain merchant. Images of Adinath, the first Jain tirthankar (believed to have attained enlightenment here), face the four cardinal directions. You can easily spend a couple of hours wandering among the hundreds of temples up here. The biggest and one of the most splendid and important, with a fantastic wealth of detailed carving, is the Adinath Temple, on the highest point on the far (south) side.

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Talaja (₹20, one hour, hourly), where you can catch buses to Diu (₹90, 5½ hours, around six daily.). Three passenger trains run daily to/from Bhavnagar (2nd class ₹9).

Diu % 02875 / POP 21,576

GUJAR AT S AU R A S H T R A

What is Diu? For better or worse, this tiny ex-Portuguese island is one of the main reasons travellers come to Gujarat. And while it may not be the tropical paradise they imagined, it has a quirky charm and serenity. Diu is clean and uncrowded and boasts some reasonable beaches, whitewashed churches, an imposing fort, interestingly colourful Portuguese-influenced streets (most of them deliciously quiet) and fresh seafood, as well as groups of giggly Gujarati weekenders who flock here for the cheap booze. Plus it’s the safest place to ride a scooter in all of India, with minimum traﬃc and excellent roads. Like Daman and Goa, Diu was a Portuguese colony until taken over by India in 1961. With Daman, it is still governed from Delhi as part of the Union Territory of Daman & Diu and is not part of Gujarat. It includes Diu Island, about 11km by 3km, separated from the mainland by a narrow channel, and two tiny mainland enclaves. One of these, housing the village of Ghoghla, is the entry point to Diu from Una. Diu town sits at the east end of the island. The northern side of the island, facing Gujarat, is tidal marsh and salt pans, while the southern coast alternates between limestone cliﬀs, rocky coves and sandy beaches. The island’s main industries are fishing, tourism, alcohol and salt. Kalpana Distillery at Malala produces rum from sugar cane. One legacy of the Portuguese that is very much respected by many local businesses is that of the siesta. History

Diu was the first landing point for the Parsis when they fled from Persia in the 7th century AD. By all accounts they moved on to Sanjan, in southeast Gujarat, after a few years, although Diu did have some sort of Parsi community later in its history. Between the 14th and 16th centuries Diu was an important trading post and naval base from which the Ottomans controlled the northern Arabian Sea shipping routes. Portugal unsuccessfully attempted to capture the island in 1531, during which the

Turkish navy helped Bahadur Shah, Sultan of Gujarat. The Portuguese finally secured control in 1535 by taking advantage of a quarrel between the sultan and the Mughal emperor, Humayun. Bahadur signed a treaty with the Portuguese, giving them control over Diu port. Though both Bahadur and his successor, Mahmud III, then attempted to contest the issue, another treaty eventually signed in 1539 ceded the island of Diu and the mainland enclave of Ghoghla to Portugal. Seven Rajput soldiers and a few civilians were killed in Operation Vijay, which ended Portuguese rule in 1961. After the Indian Air Force unnecessarily bombed the airstrip and terminal near Nagoa, it remained derelict until the late 1980s. Diu, Daman and Goa were administered as one union territory of India until 1987, when Goa became a state. Dangers & Annoyances

Much more an annoyance than a danger, drunk male tourists can be tiresome, particularly towards single or pairs of women, and particularly around Nagoa Beach.

1 Sights & Activities DIU TOWN

The town is sandwiched between the massive fort at its east end and a huge city wall on the west. The main Zampa Gateway, painted bright red, has carvings of lions, angels and a priest, while just inside it is a chapel with an image of the Virgin and Child dating from 1702. Cavernous St Paul’s Church (h8am-6pm) is a wedding cake of a church, founded by Jesuits in 1600 and then rebuilt in 1807. Its neoclassical facade is the most elaborate of any Portuguese church in India. Inside, it’s a great barn, with a small cloister next door, above which is a school. Daily mass is heard here. Nearby is white-walled St Thomas’ Church, a lovely, simple building that is now the Diu Museum (admission free; h9am-9pm), with a spooky, evocative collection of wooden Catholic saints going back to the 16th century. Once a year, on 1 November, this is used for a packed-out mass. The Portuguese-descended population mostly live in this area, still called Farangiwada (Foreigners’ Quarter). The Church of St Francis of Assisi, founded in 1593, has been converted into a hospital, but is also sometimes used for services. Many other Diu buildings show a lingering Portuguese influence. The western part of town is a maze of narrow, winding streets

and many houses are brightly painted, with the most impressive being in the Panchwati area, notably Nagar Sheth Haveli, an old merchant’s house laden with stucco scrolls and fulsome fruit. AROUND THE ISLAND Beaches BEACHES Nagoa Beach, on the south coast of the is-

Gangeswar Temple

HINDU TEMPLE

Parsi Bungali

HISTORIC SITE

Gangeswar Temple, on the south coast 3km west of town, just past Fudam village, is a small coastal cave where five Shiva linga (phallic symbols) are washed by the waves. A stone-paved path leads 200m inland from Gangeswar Temple to two Parsi ‘towers of silence’, squat, round stone towers where the Parsis laid their dead out to be consumed by vultures. Sea Shell Museum MUSEUM (adult/child ₹10/5; h9am-6pm) This museum,

6km from town on the Nagoa road, is a labour of love. Captain Devjibhai Vira Fulbaria, a merchant navy captain, collected shells from literally all over the world in 50 years of sailing, and has displayed and labelled them in English with great care. Vanakbara

FISHING VILLAGE

At the extreme west of the island, Vanakbara is a fascinating little fishing village. It’s great to wander around the port, packed with colourful fishing boats and bustling activity – best around 7am to 8am when the fishing fleet returns and sells oﬀ its catch.

T Tours

You can take 20-minute boat trips (per per-

DIU FORT Built in 1535, with modifications made in the 1540s, Diu’s massive, wellpreserved Portuguese fort (admission free; h8am-6pm) with its double moat (one tidal) on the land side, must once have been impregnable. Cannonballs litter the place and the ramparts have a superb array of cannons. The lighthouse in the fort is Diu’s highest point, with a beam that reaches 32km. There are several small chapels, one of them dedicated to Santiago, whose horsemounted, sword-wielding image is quite a surprise to encounter so far from its Iberian Peninsula homeland! Part of the fort also now serves as the island’s jail. The former jail is Fortim-do-Mar (Pani Kotha), the boat-shaped building that seems to float in the bay north of the fort.

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son ₹25, minimum charge ₹150; h9.30am-1.30pm & 3-6.30pm) around the harbour, with a close-

up look at Fortim-do-Mar, when it’s calm enough. Get tickets at the kiosk in front of the tourist oﬃce. Other options include a onehour evening cruise (per person ₹120, minimum charge ₹960) at 7.30pm, weather permitting.

4 Sleeping Rates at most hotels are extremely flexible, with discounts of up to 60% available at the more expensive places when things are quiet. Some only charge the full rates at peak holiday times like Diwali and Christmas/ New Year. DIU TOWN Herança Goesa GUESTHOUSE $ (%253851; heranca_goesa@yahoo.com; Farangiwada; r ₹350-500) Behind Diu Museum, this

friendly home of a Portuguese-descended family has eight absolutely spotless rooms that represent incredible value. Take one of the upstairs rooms that captures the sea

SAUR ASHTR GUJAR AT D TO I UA U RTO S URS

land 7km west of Diu town, is long, palmfringed and safe for swimming – but busy, and often with drunk men: foreign women receive a lot of unwanted attention. Two kilometres further west begins the sandy, 2.5km sweep of Gomptimata Beach. This is often empty, except on busy weekends, but it gets big waves – you need to be a strong swimmer here. Beaches within walking distance of Diu town are the rocky Jallandhar, on the town’s southern shore; the longer, sandier Chakratirth, west of Jallandhar; and pretty Sunset Point Beach, a small, gentle curve beyond Chakratirth that’s popular for swimming and relatively hassle-free. Sunset Point itself is a small headland at the south end of the beach, topped by the INS Khukhri Memorial, commemorating an Indian Navy frigate sunk oﬀ Diu during the 1971 India-Pakistan War. Unfortunately the region around Sunset Point is also the town’s dumping ground. Waste is sometimes dumped directly into the sea, and any early-

morning excursion will reveal that the tidal zone here is a popular toilet venue.

Diu Town

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GUJAR AT S AU R A S H T R A

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breeze and just relax. Good breakfasts are served and delicious fish/seafood dinners (around ₹200) are available if you reserve in the morning. Hotel São Tomé Retiro GUESTHOUSE $ (%253137; r ₹500-800, without bathroom ₹250)

This atmospheric guesthouse, occupying rooms up on the side of old St Thomas’ Church, is definitely the place to stay for the shoes-oﬀ, gone fishin’ Diu experience. Your host, George D’Souza, is a gentle soul, and his barbecue parties are a treat. Rooms range from small, hot and basic structures on the roof to charming, breezy thick-walled abodes. The 360-degree views from the church roof are unrivalled on the island. Hotel Samrat HOTEL $$ (%252354; www.cidadedediu.com/samrat; Old Collectorate Rd; r ₹1450, regular/deluxe with AC ₹1850/2250; a) Hotel Samrat is the town’s

best midrange choice, with comfortable doubles, some with street-facing balconies. Credit cards are accepted and there’s a decent Indian/Chinese restaurant (mains ₹65 to ₹145) with plenty of grog available. Hotel Super Silver HOTEL $ (%252020; hotel_supersilverdiu@yahoo.com; Super Silver Complex; s/d ₹250/300, r with AC ₹700; a) Super Silver has a nice central location

and is very good value, with simple, clean, freshly painted rooms, some with views, and helpful management. Non-AC rooms are smallish. The hotel has a handy cybercafe and scooter and motorcycle rental. Sanmaan Palace HOTEL $$ (%253031; Fort Rd; s/d cottage ₹850/1200, deluxe ₹1250/1600, ste ₹1650/2000; a) This is

a nearly 200-year-old Portuguese villa in a superb, breezy waterfront location between the town square and fort. The ‘cottages’ are stuﬀy converted shipping containers in the garden and best avoided. The six original villa rooms, including the two larger corner ‘suites’, are plain and simple, but their high ceilings lend a little charm. There’s a pleasant rooftop restaurant – perfect for a beer. Hotel Apaar HOTEL $$ (%255321; hotelapaardiu@gmail.com; Bunder Rd; r ₹1800-2600; a) Set back oﬀ the main wa-

terfront road in town, the Apaar opened in 2009 and still has that recently-opened shine – for now at least. The sizeable ‘superior’ rooms (₹2300) have full-wall windows, faux-wood surfaces and balconies, some of them sea-facing. Hotel Relax Inn HOTEL $$ (%9638741888; Bunder Rd; r ₹2000; a) Next to

the Apaar and equally new, with colourful

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Diu Town æ Top Sights Diu Fort................................................... D2 St Paul's Church .................................... C2 St Thomas' Church................................ C2 Zampa Gateway..................................... A2 æ Sights 1 Church of St Francis of Assisi (Hospital) ............................................ C2 2 Diu Museum........................................... C2 3 Fortim-do-Mar ........................................D1 4 Nagar Sheth Haveli................................ B2 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 5 Boat Tour Kiosk ......................................B1

exterior paintwork, Relax Inn oﬀers similarly bright rooms, in blues and whites, all with balconies. If the weather’s not too hot, you can score a good discount by having the AC turned oﬀ. NAGOA BEACH Resort Hoka HOTEL $$ (%253036; www.resorthoka.com; r ₹1750-1950; as) Hoka is a great place to stay, with co-

lourful, clean and cool rooms in a small, palmshaded complex with a small swimming pool. Some rooms have terraces over the palm trees. The management here is very helpful, you can hire mopeds, and the food is excellent. Fork right when you arrive at Nagoa Beach, and it’s on the left about 300m along. Radhika Beach Resort HOTEL $$ (%252553; www.radhikaresort.com; d ₹25504050; ais) An immaculate, smart, mod-

ern place and Diu’s best-located upmarket option, with comfortable, tasteful villas in grassy grounds. Rooms are spacious, clean and worth the money, and there’s a very good multicuisine restaurant. The ‘classic’ and VIP rooms are set around a large pool. Hotel Gangasagar HOTEL $$ (%252249; d ₹900, with AC or beach-facing balcony ₹1200; a) A classic beachfront hotel, with

ú Eating 11 Apana Foodland ..................................... B1 12 Fish Market ............................................. A1 Hotel São Tomé Retiro............................................ (see 2) 13 La Dolce Vita...........................................B3 14 O'Coqueiro.............................................. C1 15 Ram Vijay ................................................ B1 û Drinking 16 Casaluxo Bar .......................................... B1 Information 17 A to Z .......................................................B2 ICICI ATM.......................................(see 16) Post Office .....................................(see 16) 18 Tourist Office.......................................... B1 Transport A to Z .............................................. (see 17) 19 Jethibai Bus Stand ................................. A1

salty sea-shack ambience and a well-stocked beachfront bar, which might or might not be an advantage. The beach-facing balcony rooms are the best, though all rooms are clean and simple. A downside can be the weekend clientele.

5 Eating Fresh fish is excellent here, and drinks are blissfully cheap – around ₹50 for a Kingfisher or ₹150 for a bottle of port.

oO’Coqueiro

MULTICUISINE $$

(Farangiwada Rd; mains ₹65-240) Here, a dedi-

cated owner has developed a soul-infused garden restaurant celebrating freshness and quality. The menu oﬀers uncomplicated but very tasty pasta, chicken and seafood, plus a handful of Portuguese dishes learnt from a local Diu matriarch. There’s also good coﬀee, cold beer, mellow music and friendly service. La Dolce Vita MULTICUISINE $$ (%9824203925; Hospital Rd; mains ₹60-130) This

is a pretty garden restaurant on the beach side of town with excellent-value breakfasts (options include homemade muesli, fruit salad, pancakes and lassi) and very good Moka coﬀee. Lunch and dinner comprise veg and non-veg curries, pasta and seafood.

SAUR ASHTR E AT GUJAR AT D E AT I UAI N G ING

ÿ Sleeping 6 Herança Goesa ...................................... C2 7 Hotel Apaar .............................................B1 Hotel Relax Inn................................ (see 7) 8 Hotel Samrat...........................................B1 Hotel São Tomé Retiro................... (see 2) 9 Hotel Super Silver...................................B1

10 Sanmaan Palace .................................... C1

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Bon Apetit MULTICUISINE $$ (Nagoa Beach; mains ₹110-140) This rustic place,

500m west from the Nagoa fork, serves up very tasty pasta, pizza, and prawn and chicken masala and curries, at low tables in a nice, shady garden setting. If you pre-order you can get a BBQ dinner for anywhere between ₹185 and ₹400 depending on what you fancy and what’s available at the market. Resort Hoka MULTICUISINE $$ (Nagoa Beach; mains ₹100-275; h8.30-10.30am, 1-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm) The open-air restau-

rant at this small hotel has notably excellent food, with inviting breakfasts and delicious choices such as penne with tuna and tomato, fish and chips, and prawn coconut curry. It’s relaxed, pleasant and tree-shaded. Apana Foodland MULTICUISINE $$ (Apana Hotel, Fort Rd; mains ₹60-160) This out-

GUJAR AT S AU R A S H T R A

door restaurant facing the town waterfront does everything: breakfasts, South Indian, Gujarati, Punjabi and Chinese. The fish dishes, including shark tikka, or kingfish/ prawns with rice, chips and salad, can be pre-ordered so you don’t miss out. The Gujarati fruit salad is delicious.

Hotel São Tomé Retiro SEAFOOD $ (%253137; all-you-can-eat BBQ ₹150) From

around September to April, hospitable George and family hold BBQ parties every other evening. The fresh fish and delicious salads are fantastic, beer’s available and it’s an atmospheric place to sit around a blazing campfire and meet other travellers.

Ram Vijay ICE CREAM $ (scoops ₹20-25; h8.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-9.30pm)

For a rare treat head to this small, squeakyclean, old-fashioned ice-cream parlour near the town square, for delicious handmade ice cream and milkshakes. Going since 1933, this family enterprise started with soft drinks, and still makes its own brands (Dew and Leo) in Fudam village – try a mint or ginger lemon soda and then all the ice creams! There are two fish markets, one opposite Jethibai bus stand, and an evening market, lit by flame torches, across the bridge in Ghoghla. The fresh fish and seafood are delicious; most guesthouses and hotels will cook anything you buy.

Drinking

Apart from the restaurants (most of which double as bars), there are a number of

bars around town. Some are on the seedy side, but the almost publike Casaluxo Bar (h9am-1pm Mon-Sat, 4-9pm Tue-Sat), facing the town square, has a more salubrious air. It opened in 1963, and doesn’t seem to have updated its decor since, with lots of dusty bottles.

8 Information

Note that many shops around town change money. A to Z (Vaniya St, Panchwati; internet per hr ₹30; h9am-11pm) ICICI ATM Facing the town square. Post office (h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Upstairs, facing the town square. SBI ATM (Goldmoon Complex, Bunder Rd) State Bank of India (Main Bazaar; h10am4pm Mon-Fri) Changes cash and travellers cheques. Tourist office (%252653; www.diutourism. co.in; Bunder Rd; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) This quite helpful office has maps, bus schedules and hotel prices. Uma Cyber Café (internet per hr ₹30; h9.30am-11pm) Next to Uma Shakti Hotel.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Jet Airways (%255030; www.jetairways.com) flies to/from Mumbai daily except Saturday. There are several ticketing agents in town. The airport is 6km west of town, just before Nagoa Beach. Bus & Car Apart from the final 14km from Una, the roads approaching Diu are abysmal. Hwy 8E is one long pothole from 30km west of Una to 30km east of it. Visitors arriving in Diu by road may be charged a border tax of ₹50 per person, though the practice seems to be erratic. From Jethibai bus stand there are buses to Veraval (₹70, three hours, 10 daily), Junagadh (₹110, five hours, seven daily), Rajkot (₹140, six hours, six daily), Bhavnagar (₹107, seven hours, 10 daily) and Ahmedabad (₹200, 12 hours, 7am and 9pm). More frequent departures go from Una, 14km north of Diu. Buses run between Una bus stand and Diu (₹14, 40 minutes) every halfhour between 6.30am to 8pm. Outside these hours, shared autorickshaws go to Ghoghla or Diu from Tower Chowk in Una (1km from the bus stand), for about the same fare. An autorickshaw costs ₹150 to ₹200. Una rickshaw-wallahs are unable to proceed further than the bus station in Diu, so cannot take you all the way to Nagoa Beach (an additional ₹60).

A to Z (Vaniya St; h9am-11pm) sells tickets for private buses from Diu to Mumbai at 11am (seat/sleeper ₹450/500, 22 hours) and to Ahmedabad at 7.30pm (₹200/250, 11 hours).

building. Veraval was the major seaport for Mecca pilgrims before the rise of Surat. The main reason to come here now is to visit the Temple of Somnath, 6km southeast.

Train Delwada, 8km from Diu on the Una road, is the nearest railhead. Train 315 at 2.25pm runs to Sasan Gir (2nd class ₹15, 3½ hours) and Junagadh (₹23, 6¼ hours). Train 314 at 8.05am heads to Veraval (₹17, 3¼ hours). Half-hourly Diu–Una buses stop at Delwada (₹14, 20 minutes).

1 Sights

8 Getting Around

Veraval % 02876 / POP 141,207

Veraval is cluttered, chaotic, and smells strongly of fish – not surprising given that it’s one of India’s major fishing ports – and its busy harbour is full of bustle and boat 0 e #0

Veraval ›4 # #S# ð ÿ1 3 T #

6 #2 ú

# Rd College ì ‚ To Toran Tourist Bungalow (600m)

Clock Tower

Kaveri is the pick of the town’s uninspiring accommodation, and the most convenient choice, with a range of well-kept rooms and switched-on management.

Toran Tourist Bungalow HOTEL $ (%246588; College Rd; s/d ₹350/500, with AC ₹600/800; a) This state-government-run ho-

tel, 1km west of the clock tower, is not very conveniently situated. But it has sizeable, clean rooms with white-tile walls and floors, and terraces from which you can see the sea. Sagar INDIAN $ (ST Rd; mains ₹60-100; h9am-3.30pm & 5-11pm)

Veraval ÿ Sleeping 1 Hotel Kaveri.......................................... A1

ARABIAN SEA A

Hotel Kaveri HOTEL $ (%220842; 2 Akar Complex, ST Rd; s/d ₹250/400, AC s ₹550-650, d ₹650-850, ste ₹1100-1800; a)

Municipal To Bhalka Gardens Tirth (1km); # ì Somnath (6km) Satta Bazaar

Fruit & Vegetable Market

4 Sleeping & Eating

This subdued, friendly vegetarian restaurant serves reasonable Punjabi and South Indian food.

Train # £ Station

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200 m 0.1 miles

One kilometre from Veraval towards Somnath, Bhalka Tirth is where Krishna was mistaken for a deer (he was sleeping in a deerskin) and fatally wounded by an arrow. The temple here is an architecturally mundane aﬀair, but it contains an image of Krishna reclining, a tulsi tree planted in his memory growing out through the roof, a relief of his footprint and two Shiva linga. A sign outside tells us that this was where Krishna departed on his journey to Neejdham (final rest) at 2.27 and 30 seconds am on 18 February, 3102 BC. The fishing harbour about 800m south of Bhalka Tirth towards Somnath is a striking sight with hundreds of wooden dhows flying colourful flags.

ú Eating 2 Sagar .................................................... A1 Transport 3 Krishna Travels.................................... A1 4 ST Bus Stand ....................................... A1

SAUR ASHTR 8 L GUJAR AT V 8 EA R AVA

Travelling by autorickshaw anywhere in Diu town should cost no more than ₹20. To Nagoa Beach pay ₹60 and to Sunset Point ₹40. Scooters are a perfect option for exploring the island – the roads are deserted and in good condition. The going rate for 24-hour rental is ₹150 to ₹200 (not including fuel), and motorcycles can be had for ₹250. Most hotels can arrange rentals, although quality varies. You will normally have to show your driving licence and leave a deposit of ₹500 to ₹1000. At Hotel Super Silver, rentals include a helmet and the deposit is ₹500. Local buses from Diu town to Nagoa and Vanakbara (both ₹10) leave Jethibai bus stand at 7am, 11am and 4pm. From Nagoa, they depart for Diu town from near the police post at 1pm, 5.30pm and 7pm.

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8 Information

There are HDFC and Axis Bank ATMs near the municipal gardens. JP Travels International (Satta Bazaar; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Changes travellers cheques and cash. Magnet Cyber Café (2nd fl, Chandramauli Complex, ST Rd; internet per hr ₹20; h9.30am-10pm) Opposite the bus station.

8 Getting There & Away

BUS ST buses go to Ahmedabad (₹175, nine

GUJAR AT S AU R A S H T R A

hours, five daily), Diu (₹70, three hours, 10 daily), Sasan Gir (₹25 to ₹45, 1½ hours, hourly), Junagadh (₹40, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes) and Rajkot (₹80, four hours, hourly). Krishna Travels, opposite the ST bus stand, oﬀers a nightly jaunt to Ahmedabad (seat/sleeper ₹180/280) at 9.30pm. TRAIN The Jabalpur Express (train 11463 or 11465) leaves at 10am for Junagadh (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹130/225/294, 1¾ hours), Rajkot (₹130/307/409, four hours) and Ahmedabad (₹204/529/717, nine hours). Secondclass-only trains with unreserved seating head to Sasan Gir (₹7, 1¼ to two hours) at 9.45am and 1.55pm, and to Delwada (for Diu) at 4.20pm (₹17, 3¼ hours). There’s a computerised reservation oﬃce (h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) at the station.

8 Getting Around

An autorickshaw to Somnath should cost about ₹40; buses are ₹9 and leave from the ST bus stand.

Somnath % 02876

Somnath’s famous, phoenix-like temple stands in neat gardens above the beach, 6km southeast of Veraval. The sea below gives it a wistful charm. The small town of Somnath is an agglomeration of narrow streets now shielded by a high wall from the gaze of the relentless stream of pilgrims at the temple. There’s a State Bank ATM on your right as you approach the temple. Somnath celebrates Kartik Purnima (November or December), marking Shiva’s killing of the demon Tripurasura, with a large colourful fair.

1 Sights

Temple of Somnath HINDU TEMPLE (h6am-9pm) This temple has been razed and

rebuilt at least seven times. It’s said that Somraj, the moon god, constructed a gold

version, rebuilt by Ravana in silver, by Krishna in wood and by Bhimdev in stone. A description of the temple by Al-Biruni, an Arab traveller, was so glowing that it prompted a visit in 1024 by a most unwelcome tourist – the legendary looter Mahmud of Ghazni from Afghanistan. At that time, the temple was so wealthy that it had 300 musicians, 500 dancing girls and even 300 barbers. Mahmud of Ghazni took the town and temple after a two-day battle in which it’s said 70,000 Hindu defenders died. Having stripped the temple of its fabulous wealth, Mahmud destroyed it. So began a pattern of Muslim destruction and Hindu rebuilding that continued for centuries. The temple was again razed in 1297, 1394 and finally in 1706 by Aurangzeb, the notorious Mughal fundamentalist. After the 1706 demolition, the temple wasn’t rebuilt until 1950. The current serene, symmetrical structure was built to traditional designs on the original coastal site: it’s painted a creamy colour and boasts a little fine sculpture. The large, black Shiva lingam at its heart is one of the 12 most sacred Shiva shrines known as jyoti linga. Colourful dioramas of the Shiva story line the north side of the temple garden. A one-hour sound-and-light show (admission ₹20) highlights the temple nightly at 8pm. Prabhas Patan Museum MUSEUM (Indian/foreigner ₹2/50; h10.30am-5.30pm ThuTue, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month) This mu-

seum, 300m north of the Somnath temple, is laid out in courtyard-centred rooms and contains remains of the previous temples, with lots of beautiful fragments, including an elaborate 11th-century ceiling.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Sukhsagar HOTEL $$ (%232311; www.hotelsukhsagar.in; Somnath Bye Pass Corner; r ₹1400-2800; a) The prime

choice lies 2km northeast of Somnath temple where the Veraval–Somnath bypass meets Hwy 8E. It’s a new hotel with spickand-span, reasonably spacious rooms with sparkling tiled floors, plus a veg restaurant with garden and AC sections. Hotel Mayuram HOTEL (%231286; Triveni Rd; r without/with AC ₹400/700; a) Just down the coast road

heading away from the temple, quiet Mayuram has clean, plain doubles shining with tiles.

New Bhabha Restaurant INDIAN, CHINESE $ (mains ₹50-80) The pick of a poor bunch of

eateries, vegetarian New Bhabha sits 250m north of the ST bus stand. You can eat in a small AC room or outside open to the street. The sweet Kashmiri pulao is reasonably tasty despite its alarming dyed-green colour.

8 Getting There & Away

Somnath has fewer departures than Veraval, but buses run to Diu (₹65, three hours, daily at 9.40am), Junagadh (₹45, two hours, eight daily) and Rajkot (₹85, four hours, two daily). Mahasagar Travels, just north of the ST bus stand, has buses to Ahmedabad (seat/sleeper ₹200/300, nine hours) at 9pm and 10pm.

Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary % 02877

699

1 Sights & Activities oSafaris

WILDLIFE-WATCHING

As a general rule of thumb about one in every two safaris has a lion sighting. So if you’re determined to see lions, allow for a couple of trips. You’ll certainly see a variety of other wildlife, and the guides are adept spotters. Visits to the sanctuary are in jeeps which follow varied circuits of about three hours. The best time for seeing wildlife is early morning. Most hotels and guesthouses in and around Sasan Gir have jeeps and drivers or will arrange them for you, charging ₹900 or more per safari for up to six passengers. Alternatively, you can hire a jeep and driver for around ₹800 outside the sanctuary reception centre (%285541), next to Sinh Sadan Guest House in Sasan

THE LAST WILD ASIATIC LIONS The Asiatic lion (Panthera leo persica) once roared as far west as Syria and as far east as India’s Bihar. Widespread hunting decimated the population, with the last sightings recorded near Delhi in 1834, in Bihar in 1840 and in Rajasthan in 1870. In Gujarat too they were almost hunted to extinction, with as few as 12 remaining in the 1870s. It was not until one of their erstwhile pursuers, the enlightened Nawab of Junagadh, decided to set up a protection zone at the beginning of the 20th century that the lions began slowly to recover. This zone now survives as the Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary. Separated from their African counterpart (Panthera leo leo) for centuries, Asiatic lions have developed unique characteristics. Their mane is less luxuriant and doesn’t cover the top of the head or ears, while a prominent fold of skin runs the length of the abdomen. They are also purely predatory, unlike African lions which sometimes feed oﬀ carrion.

SAUR ASHTR GUJAR AT S 8 AA S A8N G I R W I L D L I F E S A N C T UA R Y

The last refuge of the Asiatic lion (Panthera leo persica) is this forested, hilly, 1412-sq-km sanctuary about halfway between Veraval and Junagadh. It feels beguilingly uncommercial, and simply driving through the thick, undisturbed forests would be a joy even if there wasn’t the excitement of lions and other wildlife to spot. The sanctuary was set up in 1965, and a 259-sq-km core area was declared a national park in 1975. Since the late 1960s, lion numbers have increased from under 200 to over 400. The sanctuary’s 37 other mammal species, most of which have also increased in numbers, include the dainty chital (spotted deer), the sambar (a large deer), the nilgai or bluebull (a large antelope), the chousingha (four-horned antelope), the chinkara (a gazelle), crocodiles and rarely seen leopards. Sasan Gir is a great destination for birders too, with over

300 species, most of them resident. While the wildlife has been lucky, more than half the sanctuary’s human community of distinctively dressed maaldhari (herders) have been resettled elsewhere as their herds of cattle and buﬀalo were competing for food resources with the antelopes, deer and gazelles, while also being preyed upon by the lions and leopards (maaldhari livestock still provides a quarter of the lions’ diet). Sasan Gir is no longer big enough for the number of lions, and today groups of lions are found as far away as the Junagadh hills to the north and even occasionally on the beaches of Diu! The sanctuary access point is Sasan Gir village, on a minor road and railway between Veraval and Junagadh (about 40km from each). The best time to visit is from December to April; the sanctuary is closed from 16 June to 15 October and possibly longer if there has been a heavy monsoon.

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Gir village. Once you have a vehicle sorted, you must queue up at the reception centre to obtain a permit (vehicle with up to 6 pas-

sengers Indians/foreigners ₹400/US$40 Mon-Fri, ₹500/US$50 Sat & Sun, ₹600/US$60 around Navratri, Diwali & Christmas/New Year) and a guide (4hr ₹50), and pay photography fees (camera up to 7 megapixel free, over 7 megapixel Indian/foreigner ₹100/US$10). Your driver will

usually help with this; be at the reception centre with your passport when it opens to ensure getting a permit and an early start. Permit-issuing times are posted at the reception centre: at research time they were 5am to 6am, 8am to 9am and 2pm to 3pm. Up to 90 permits can be issued each day and half of those can be booked in advance. Although permit prices are quoted in US dollars, payment is in rupees and the exchange rate is at the oﬃcial’s discretion – usually fair.

GUJAR AT S AU R A S H T R A

Gir Interpretation Zone WILDLIFE-WATCHING (Indian/foreigner ₹75/US$20; h8.30am-noon & 3.30pm-dusk Thu-Tue) Twelve kilometres

west of Sasan Gir village at Devalia, within the sanctuary precincts, is the Gir Interpretation Zone, better known as simply ‘Devalia’. The 4.12-sq-km fenced-oﬀ compound is home to a cross-section of Gir wildlife. Chances of seeing lions here are good but stage-managed, and you’re only likely to get 30 to 45 minutes looking for wildlife and only from a bus. An autorickshaw/taxi round-trip to Devalia from Sasan Gir village costs around ₹70/100. Gir Orientation Centre EXHIBITION (admission free; h8am-6pm) Next to the

reception centre, this has an informative exhibition on the sanctuary and a small shop. A creaking film about the park is screened behind the building at 7pm.

4 Sleeping & Eating It’s a good idea to make an advance booking. Sasan Gir has one main street and most accommodation is on it or nearby, with a few upmarket options further away. Amidhara Resort HOTEL $$ (%285950; www.amidhararesorts.com; r incl 3 meals ₹3900-7500, with AC ₹4900-8000; as)

Two kilometres south of the village on the Veraval road, this is easily the most comfortable choice. The rooms and cottages are generously decked out and there’s an inviting pool and other sports and games facilities. The included meals are vegetarian; it’s

also possible to get a room without meals for about one-third oﬀ the rates given here, and take veg or non-veg meals as you choose. Hotel Umang HOTEL $ (%285728; www.hotelumang.com; Rameshwar Society, SBS Rd; r without/with AC ₹750/1250; a) This is a quiet option with serviceable

rooms, helpful management and decent meals. Discounts are available when business is slow, and it offers a two-night package with all meals for ₹3150. Head 150m west from Sinh Sadan then 200m south off the main road. Maneland Jungle Lodge HOTEL $$ (%285690; www.maneland.com; r incl meals ₹2500, with AC ₹3500; a) Off the road to Junagadh,

3km from Sasan Gir village, this friendly and relaxed place is in a nice, natural setting backing on to the sanctuary, and has good, clean rooms in stone-built cottages. The included meals are vegetarian and good.

Gir Birding Lodge HOTEL $$ (%9899810456; www.girbirdinglodge.com; cottage incl meals s/d standard ₹3000/3500, deluxe ₹4500/5000; a) Has 12 bungalow rooms in

a fruit orchard 2.5km from the village off the Junagadh road. Bird and river walks available; naturalist guides cost ₹2000 per day. Hotel Annapurna HOTEL (%285569; r without/with AC ₹400/1000; a)

Gir Rajwadi Hotel INDIAN (mains ₹60-70; hlunch & dinner) This veg-

On the main street, with small, clean rooms freshly painted in pinks and yellows. Get one with an exterior window.

etarian joint is the best of several simple restaurants along the village’s main street. Gujarati thali is ₹80.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses run from Sasan Gir village to both Veraval (local/express ₹25/45, 1½ hours) and Junagadh (₹30/50, two hours) about 10 times daily. Second-class unreserved-seating trains run to Junagadh (₹12, 2¾ hours) at 5.57pm, to Delwada (for Diu, ₹15, 3½ hours) at 9.57am, and to Veraval (₹7, 1½ hours) at 12.07pm and 4.27pm.

Junagadh % 0285 / POP 168,686

Junagadh is an interesting small city reached by few tourists. It’s an ancient, fortified city with 2300 years of history (its name means

‘old fort’), at the base of holy Girnar Hill. At the time of Partition, the Nawab of Junagadh opted to take his tiny state into Pakistan – a wildly unpopular decision as the inhabitants were predominantly Hindu, so the nawab departed on his own. Junagadh makes a good jumping-oﬀ point for chasing lions at Sasan Gir.

1 Sights & Activities While parts of the centre are as traﬃc-infested, crowded and hot as any other city, the area up towards Uparkot Fort and around Circle and Diwan Chowks is highly atmospheric, dotted with markets and half-abandoned palaces in Euro-Mughal style with grass growing out of their upper storeys. Uparkot Fort FORT (admission ₹2; hdawn-dusk) This ancient fort is

Girnar Hill

SACRED SITE

The long climb up 10,000 stone steps to the summit of Girnar is best begun at dawn. Be prepared to spend a full day going up and down if you want to reach the furthest temples at the top. Starting out in the early

701

SAUR ASHTR AHAG STISG S & GUJAR AT JSUI GN AH & DT HAC T I AC V I TTI IEVSI T I E S

believed to have been built in 319 BC by the Mauryan emperor Chandragupta, though it has been extended many times. In places the walls reach 20m high. It’s been besieged 16 times, and legend has it that the fort once withstood a 12-year siege. It’s also said that the fort was abandoned from the 7th to 10th centuries and, when rediscovered, was completely overgrown by jungle. The views over the city and east to Girnar Hill are superb. The Jumma Masjid, the mosque inside the fort, was converted from a palace in the 15th century by Gujarat sultan Mahmud Begada and has a rare roofed courtyard with three octagonal openings which may once have been covered by domes. Close to the mosque is a set of Buddhist caves (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk), not actually caves but monastic quarters carved out of the rock about 2000 years ago. The three-storey complex is quite eerie and the main hall contains pillars with weathered carvings. The fort has two fine step-wells both cut from solid rock. Adi Kadi Vav (named after two slave girls who used to fetch water from it) is 41m deep and was cut in the 15th century. Navghan Kuvo, 52m deep and designed to help withstand sieges, is almost 1000 years old and its magnificent staircase spirals around the well shaft.

morning light is a magical experience, as pilgrims and porters begin to trudge up the well-maintained steps. The start is 4km east of the city at Girnar Taleti. A road goes as far as about the 3000th step, which leaves you only 7000 to the top – it was closed for repairs at research time but expected to reopen in 2011. The refreshment stalls on the ascent sell chalk, so you can graffiti your name on the rocks. As you near the top, take a moment to marvel at how the stallholders can rustle up a chilled drink. If you can’t face the walk, dholis carried by porters cost ₹3850 (roundtrip) if you weigh between 50kg and 70kg, and ₹4250 for heavier passengers. If your weight range isn’t obvious, you suffer the indignity of being weighed on a huge beam scale before setting off. Girnar is of great significance to the Jains, but several important Hindu temples mean that Hindus make the pilgrimage, too. The Jain temples, a cluster of mosaicdecorated domes interspersed with elaborate stupas, are about two-thirds of the way up. The largest and oldest is the 12thcentury Temple of Neminath, dedicated to the 22nd tirthankar: go through the first left-hand doorway after the first gate. Many temples are locked from around 11am to 3pm, but this is open all day. The nearby triple Temple of Mallinath, dedicated to the ninth tirthankar, was erected in 1177 by two brothers. During festivals this temple is a sadhu magnet. Further up are various Hindu temples. The first peak is topped by the Temple of Amba Mata, where newlyweds worship to ensure a happy marriage. Beyond here there is quite a lot of down as well as up to reach the other four peaks and further temples. The Temple of Gorakhnath is perched on Gujarat’s highest peak at 1117m. The steep peak Dattatraya is topped by a shrine to a three-faced incarnation of Vishnu. Atop the final outcrop, Kalika, is a shrine to the goddess Kali. The Bhavnath Mela (Bhavnath Fair), over five days in the month of Magha (January/ February) brings folk music and dancing and throngs of nagas (naked sadhus or spiritual men) to Bhavnath Mahadev Temple at Girnar Taleti. It marks the time when Shiva is believed to have danced his cosmic dance of destruction. An autorickshaw from town to Girnar Taleti costs about ₹50.

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Mahabat Maqbara HISTORIC BUILDING This stunning mausoleum of Nawab Maha-

GUJAR AT S AU R A S H T R A

bat Khan II of Junagadh (1851–82) seems to bubble up into the sky. One of Gujarat’s most glorious examples of Euro-Indo-Islamic architecture, with French windows and Gothic columns, its lavish appeal is topped oﬀ by its silver inner doors. Boasting even more flourish is the neighbouring Vazir’s Mausoleum, sporting four storybook minarets encircled by spiralling stairways. Junagadh Zoo ZOO, MUSEUM (admission ₹20, camera/video ₹20/100; h9am6pm Thu-Tue) If you don’t make it to Sasan

Gir, Junagadh’s zoo at Sakkarbaug, 2km north of the centre, has Asiatic lions and a broad selection of other Indian wildlife. Though the concrete enclosures in the front part are cruelly small, there is a surprisingly good ‘safari’ park (20min bus tour ₹25; h9am-1pm & 2.30-5.45pm) at the back, with an abundance of lions, tigers and leopards. Safari visits start from the zoo’s north gate whenever 10 punters accumulate there. The zoo also houses the Junagadh Museum

(Indian/foreigner ₹2/50; h9am-12.15pm & 2.456pm Thu-Tue, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month), with

paintings, manuscripts, archaeological finds and more. An autorickshaw from the centre costs around ₹25.

Durbar Hall Museum MUSEUM (Diwan Chowk; Indian/foreigner ₹2/50; h9am12.15pm & 2.45-6pm Thu-Tue, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month) This museum displays weapons,

armour, palanquins, chandeliers, and howdahs from the days of the nawabs, as well as a huge carpet woven in Junagadh’s jail.

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There’s a royal portrait gallery, including photos of the last nawab with his numerous beloved dogs. Ashokan Edicts HISTORIC SITE (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk) Just out-

side town on the road to Girnar Hill, a white building on the right encloses a large boulder on which the Buddhist emperor Ashoka had 14 edicts inscribed in Brahmi script in the Pali language about 250 BC. The spidery lettering instructs people to be kind to women and animals and give to beggars, among other things, and is one of several inscriptions that Ashoka placed all around his realm expounding his moral philosophy and achievements. Translations into Hindi, English and Gujarati are placed beside the boulder.

4 Sleeping There are several cheap hotels around Kalwa Chowk which, because of the clientele they attract, are best avoided by females – even when travelling with a male partner. Lotus Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2658500; www.thelotushotel.com; Station Rd; s/d from ₹1000/1250; aW) This luxurious

and comfortable option occupies the totally renovated top floor of a former dharamsala (pilgrim’s rest house). Pilgrims never had it so good, with split-system AC and LCD TVs. Rooms are beautifully bright, spacious and pristine, the beds are great, and everything works – incredible value for such quality. There isn’t a restaurant, but there is room service and Geeta Lodge is in the same building.

Junagadh æ Top Sights Durbar Hall Museum ...........................B2 Mahabat Maqbara ............................... B1 Uparkot Fort......................................... C1 æ Sights 1 Adi Kadi Vav ......................................... C1 2 Ashokan Edicts .................................... D1 3 Buddhist Caves.................................... C1 4 Jumma Masjid ..................................... C1 5 Navghan Kuvo...................................... C1 ÿ Sleeping 6 Hotel Vishala ........................................ A1 7 Leo Resorts .......................................... D1 8 Lotus Hotel........................................... B1 9 Relief Hotel........................................... B1

on the way out towards Girnar Hill. Staﬀ seemed oddly out of sorts when we visited.

5 Eating & Drinking Junagadh is famous for its fruit, especially for kesar (mangoes) and chiku (sapodilla), which are popular in milkshakes in November and December. Geeta Lodge GUJARATI $ (Station Rd; thali ₹65; h10am-3.30pm & 6-10.30pm) Geeta’s army of waiters are con-

stantly on the move serving up top-class, allyou-can-eat veg Gujarati thalis at a bargain price. Finish oﬀ with sweets, such as fruit salad or pureed mango, for ₹15. Relief Restaurant INDIAN $ (Relief Hotel, Chitta Khana Chowk; mains ₹60-100; h11.30am-3.30pm & 6.30-11.30pm) This spot-

less, relaxed, AC restaurant serves up delicious Punjabi, tandoori and Chinese dishes. Meat-eaters can choose from chicken, mutton, fish or prawns, and there’s a good choice of veg and paneer dishes.

Transport 13 Mahasagar Travels.............................. A1 14 ST Bus Stand ....................................... A1

Garden Cafe INDIAN $ (mains ₹60-110; h6.30-10.30pm Thu-Tue) Some-

Sorathia (Junagadh’s unoﬃcial tourist information oﬃcer) presides over the pick of the town’s budget accommodation, which has simple, clean, colourfully painted rooms and the best set-up for travellers. There’s also a fabulous restaurant and secure parking is available. Hotel Vishala HOTEL $$ (%2631599; www.hotelvishala.com; 3rd fl, Dhara Complex; r from ₹800, with AC ₹1500; a) Almost

opposite the bus station and recognisable by the little awnings over its windows, this has good-sized, recently renovated rooms with a touch of contemporary minimalism in the AC quarters. There’s a rooftop veg restaurant too.

Leo Resorts HOTEL $$ (%2652844; www.leoresorts.com; Taleti Rd; s ₹1800-2700, d ₹2000-3000; aWs) Leo boasts

a very inviting pool, a large playground and lawned gardens. The cheaper (‘delux’) rooms are spacious and quite liveable, without being attractive; the ‘super delux’ have a touch of style and plenty of comfort. It’s situated

thing diﬀerent: this restaurant has a lovely garden setting next to Jyoti Nursery on the east side of town, and reasonable Jain, Punjabi and South Indian food. It’s popular with families and worth the short rickshaw ride. Jay Ambe Juice Centre JUICE BAR $ (Diwan Chowk; snacks & drinks ₹25-40; h10am11pm) Perfect retreat for a fresh juice,

milkshake or ice cream – try a custardapple shake.

8 Information

The very helpful management at Hotel Relief serves as an unoﬃcial tourist information provider. Bank of Baroda ATM (cnr MG Rd & Post Office Rd) State Bank ATM (Prism Complex) Near the bus station. State Bank of India (Nagar Rd; h11am-2pm Mon-Fri) Changes travellers cheques and cash; has an ATM. X’S Internet Cafe (1st fl, Lake View Complex, Talav Gate; internet per hr ₹20; h9am-11pm)

8 Getting There & Away

Bus Buses leave the ST bus stand for Rajkot (₹50, two hours, hourly), Sasan Gir (₹55, two hours, hourly), Veraval (₹40, 2½ hours, eight daily), Diu (₹98, five

SAUR ASHTR AIAG E AT GUJAR AT JE U AT N N GA & DI NHDGR& I NDKRI NI NGK I N G

ú Eating 10 Garden Cafe .........................................D2 11 Geeta Lodge......................................... B1 12 Jay Ambe Juice Centre .......................B2 Relief Restaurant......................... (see 9)

Relief Hotel HOTEL $ (%2620280; www.reliefhotel.com; Chitta Khana Chowk; s/d ₹300/400, r with AC ₹700; ai) Mr

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hours, 2.30pm and 3.15pm), Una (for Diu, ₹80, 4½ hours, eight daily), Jamnagar (₹80, four hours, nine daily), Ahmedabad (₹160, eight hours, 6am and 7am) and Bhuj (₹100, seven hours, five daily). Various private bus oﬃces including Mahasagar Travels are on Dhal Rd, near the rail tracks. Services go to Mumbai (seat/sleeper ₹350/450, 19 hours), Ahmedabad (with/without AC ₹300/250, eight hours), Rajkot (₹60, two hours), Jamnagar (₹100, four hours) and Udaipur (seat/sleeper ₹300/400, 14 hours). Train There’s a computerised reservation oﬃce (h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) at the station. The Jabalpur Express (train 11463 or 11465) departs at 11.38am for Rajkot (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹130/244/301, 2½ hours) and Ahmedabad (₹177/454/613, seven hours). Second-class train 316 at 7.15am heads to Sasan Gir (₹12, 2¾ hours) and Delwada (for Diu, ₹23, six hours).

GUJAR AT S AU R A S H T R A

Gondal % 02825 / POP 96,000

Gondal is a small, leafy town, 38km south of Rajkot, that sports a string of palaces and a gentle river. It was once capital of a 1000-sqkm princely state ruled by Jadeja Rajputs.

1 Sights & Activities

Naulakha Museum MUSEUM (Naulakha Palace; admission ₹20; h9am-noon & 3-6pm) This interesting museum in the old

part of town is housed in a beautiful, 260-yearold riverside royal palace that was built in a mixture of styles, with striking gargoyles. It shows royal artefacts, including scales used to weigh Maharaja Bhagwat Sinhji in 1934 (his weight in silver was distributed to the poor), a nine-volume Gujarati dictionary compiled by the same revered maharaja, and the royal horse-carriage and Dinky Toy collections.

Vintage & Classic Car Collection MUSEUM (Orchard Palace; Indian/foreigner ₹60/210; h9amnoon & 3-6pm) This is the royal collection of

cars – 32 impressive vehicles, from a 1907 car made by the ‘New Engine Company Acton’ to racing cars raced by the present maharaja. All are still in working condition. Bhuvaneshwari Ayurvedic AYURVEDA Pharmacy (www.bhuvaneshwaripith.com; Ghanshyam Bhuvan; h9am-noon & 3-5pm Tue-Sat) Founded in 1910

by Gondal’s royal physician, this pharmacy

manufactures ayurvedic medicines and it’s possible to see all the weird machinery involved, as well as buy medicines for treating hair loss, vertigo, insomnia etc. The founding physician, Brahmaleen Acharyashree, is said to have coined the title ‘Mahatma’ (Great Soul) for Gandhi. Also here is a temple to the goddess Bhuvaneshwari. Udhyog Bharti Khadi Gramodyog HANDICRAFTS WORKSHOP (Udhyog Bharti Chowk; h9am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Sat) A large khadi (homespun cloth)

workshop where hundreds of women work spinning cotton upstairs, while downstairs embroidered salwar kameez (traditional dresslike tunic and trouser combination for women) and saris are on sale.

4 Sleeping & Eating SOrchard Palace

HERITAGE HOTEL $$

(%220002; www.gondalpalaces.com; Palace Rd; s/d incl breakfast ₹2225/4450, incl all meals ₹3025/6050; a) This small palace, once

the royal guesthouse, has seven well-kept, though hardly luxurious, high-ceilinged rooms of diﬀerent sizes, filled with 1930s and ’40s furniture. It’s rather overpriced, though a peaceful place to stay where guests get free admission to all of Gondal’s attractions. Vegetables are from the on-site organic garden. Reservations recommended.

Riverside Palace HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%220002; www.gondalpalaces.com; Ashapura Rd; s/d incl breakfast ₹2225/4450, incl all meals ₹3025/6050; a) This is the erstwhile rul-

ing family’s other palace-hotel, built in the 1880s and formerly the crown prince’s abode. It has a slightly less welcoming feel than the Orchard Palace, but is still fine. It’s adorned with hunting trophies and fourposter beds and has river views. Reservations recommended.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses run frequently to/from Rajkot (₹20, one hour) and Junagadh (₹30, two hours). Slow passenger trains between Rajkot (₹15, one hour) and Junagadh (₹18, 1½ hours) also stop at Gondal.

Rajkot % 0281 / POP 1.137 MILLION

Rajkot is a large, hectic commercial and industrial city that isn’t easy to love with its heavy traﬃc, impatient drivers and lack of open spaces. But the old city, east of the

newer centre, still has plenty of character, with narrow streets, markets, and farmers still selling ghee on street corners. Rajkot was founded in 1612 by Jadeja Rajputs, and in colonial times it became the headquarters of the Western India States Agency, Britain’s administrative centre for some 400 princely states in Saurashtra, Kachchh and northern Gujarat. After Independence Rajkot was capital of the shortlived state of Saurashtra.

1 Sights & Activities

Watson Museum MUSEUM (Jubilee Gardens; Indian/foreigner ₹2/50; h9am12.45pm & 3-6pm Thu-Tue, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month) The Watson Museum is named af-

FKaba Gandhi No Delo

HISTORIC BUILDING

(Ghee Kanta Rd; h9am-noon & 4-6pm Mon-Sat)

This is the house where Gandhi lived from the age of six (while his father was diwan of Rajkot), and it contains lots of interesting information on his life. The Mahatma’s passion for the hand loom is preserved in the form of a small weaving school. Patola Sari Weaving

HANDICRAFTS WORKSHOPS

The Patola-weaving skill comes from Patan, and is a torturous process that involves dyeing each thread before it is woven. Whereas in Patan both the warp and weft threads are dyed (double ikat), in Rajkot only the weft is dyed (single ikat), so the product is more affordable. You can visit workshops in people’s houses in the Sarvoday Society area about 1km southwest of Shastri Maidan, including Mayur Patola Art (%2464519; Street No 4; h10am-6pm), behind Virani High School. You can call for directions.

4 Sleeping There are plenty of cheapies on Dhebar and Kanak Rds, either side of the ST bus stand. Imperial Palace HOTEL $$ (%2480000; www.theimperialpalace.biz; Dr Yagnik Rd; s ₹3900-5900, d ₹4400-6400, ste from ₹8500; aiWs) The numero uno in town, with a

masterful lobby and lavish, well-appointed

705

Hotel Kavery HOTEL $$ (%2239331; www.hotelkavery.com; Kanak Rd; s ₹1250-2100, d ₹1850-2650, incl breakfast; aW)

A popular midrange business hotel; the rooms here fill up quickly. Rooms are comfortable without being inspiring, and desk staff are helpful. Part of the popularity is undoubtedly due to the excellent in-house Bukhara Restaurant.

Galaxy Hotel HOTEL $$ (%222905; www.thegalaxyhotelrajkot.com; 3rd fl, Galaxy Commercial Centre, Jawahar Rd; s ₹10901890, d ₹1390-2290, ste ₹2790, incl breakfast; aW) An oddly classy hotel on the 3rd

floor of a very ordinary building, with spacious, gleaming rooms. No restaurant, but there is 24-hour room service.

Hotel Bhakti HOTEL (%2227744; Kanak Rd; s/d ₹500/650, s with AC ₹750-850, d with AC ₹1100-1250; a) This

reasonable semi-cheapie out the back of the bus station has neat and comfortable rooms, but check your bathroom for proper functioning.

5 Eating Temptations MULTICUISINE $$ (Kasturba Rd; mains ₹100-170; h11am-midnight)

A few doors down from Lord’s Banquet (same management), popular Temptations has Mexican, Italian, falafel, baked potatoes, parathas (thick flat bread with stuffings such as vegetables or paneer) and South Indian in a cool, clean, brightly decorated cafe. Senso MULTICUISINE (Imperial Palace, Dr Yagnik Rd; mains ₹80-210; h24hr) The Imperial Palace’s very good

round-the-clock coffee shop does everything from Lebanese to lasagne and sizzlers to South Indian – all without meat.

Lord’s Banquet MULTICUISINE $$ (Kasturba Rd; mains ₹120-170; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm) Slightly more formal than its

sister Temptations, Lord’s is very popular for pure-veg Punjabi, continental and Chinese cuisine in cool, clean surroundings. Bukhara Restaurant MULTICUISINE (Hotel Kavery, Kanak Rd; mains ₹40-130, thali ₹120; h11am-11pm) Bukhara is smart, cool

and calm with good service and quality

SAUR ASHTR STISG H S & GUJAR AT R S IAGA JHKOT & TAC T I AC V I TTI IEVSI T I E S

ter Colonel John Watson, a political agent (administrator) in the 1880s who gathered many historical artefacts and documents from around Saurashtra. It’s a jumbled attic of a collection, featuring 3rd-century inscriptions, arrays of arms and delicate ivory work overseen by an unamused marble statue of Queen Victoria.

rooms and real mattresses on the beds. There’s a busy little wine shop, and two excellent veg eateries. Breakfast is complimentary.

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ÿ Sleeping 1 Galaxy Hotel.........................................A2 2 Hotel Bhakti .........................................B3 3 Hotel Kavery ........................................B3 ú Eating Bukhara Restaurant .................... (see 3) 4 Lord's Banquet .................................... A1 5 Temptations......................................... A1 Information SBI ATM ....................................... (see 6) 6 Tourist Office .......................................B2

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food, including Gujarati thali for lunch, and South Indian, among others, for dinner.

8 Information

There are ATMs all over town, including SBI on Jawahar Rd. Aaryans (Dr Yagnik Rd; internet per hr ₹15; h7.30am-11pm) Go 100m south from the Imperial Palace hotel. Buzz Cyber Café (Alaukik Bldg, Kasturba Rd; internet per hr ₹15; h8.30am-9.30pm) Tucked away opposite Temptations restaurant. State Bank of India (Kasturba Rd; h10am4pm) Changes cash and travellers cheques. Tourist office (%2234507; Bhavnagar House, Jawahar Rd; h10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Behind a State Bank of India building. Willing staff but no city map.

8 Getting There & Around

AIR There are daily flights to Mumbai with Air

India (%2234122; www.airindia.in) and Jet Airways (%2450200; www.jetairways.com). BUS Regular ST buses connect Rajkot with Jamnagar (₹53, two hours, every half-hour), Junagadh (₹50, two hours, hourly), Ahmedabad (₹109, 4½ hours, every half-hour) and Bhuj (₹125, seven hours, about hourly). Private buses operate to Ahmedabad, Bhavnagar, Una

(for Diu), Mt Abu, Udaipur and Mumbai. Several oﬃces are on Limda Chowk. Head to Jay Somnath Travels (Umesh Complex, Kasturba Rd) for buses to Bhuj (₹160, seven hours, six daily). TRAIN The 19006 Saurashtra Mail leaves at 5.45pm and arrives in Ahmedabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC ₹147/369/497/824) at 10.25pm and Mumbai (₹292/779/1062/1779) at 7.40am. The 19005 departs at 10.45am and arrives at Jamnagar (₹130/225/294/477) at 12.25pm. An autorickshaw to the station from the centre costs about ₹30.

Jamnagar % 0288 / POP 447,734

Jamnagar is another little-touristed but interesting city, brimming with ornate, decaying buildings and colourful bazaars displaying the town’s famous, brilliant-coloured bandhani (tie-dye) – produced through a laborious 500-year-old process involving thousands of tiny knots in a piece of folded fabric. Before Independence, Jamnagar was capital of the Nawanagar princely state. Maharaja Jam Ranjitsinhji (r 1907–33) laid out a European-style street plan for the city and was also the first great Indian cricketer, although he played for England as India had no team then. Today Jamnagar is quite a boom town, with the world’s biggest oil refinery, belonging to Reliance Petroleum, not far west of the city. The whole central

area is one big commercial zone, with more brightly lit shops and stalls at night than you’ll find in many a larger city.

1 Sights

Ranmal Lake & Lakhota Palace

LAKE, MUSEUM

The promenades around Ranmal Lake make for a nice stroll when temperatures are moderate. The diminutive mid-19th-century Lakhota Palace, a fort on an island in the lake, is reached by a causeway from the north shore. It houses a small museum (Indian/foreigner

ayurvedic university, founded in 1967, is 1.5km northwest of the centre. It has played a big part in the revival of ayurvedic medicine since Independence and also has a public hospital treating 800 to 1000 inpatients and outpatients daily, mostly free of charge. Its International Center for Ayurvedic Studies (%2664866; icasjam@gmail.com; hoffice 10.30am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat) runs a

fort’s guardroom, frescos of battles fought by the Jadeja Rajputs and assorted historical and archaeological artefacts.

full-time, three-month introductory course (registration US$20, tuition per month US$375) teaching basic theory, treatment and medicine preparation, as well as longer certificate and degree courses in ayurveda, yoga and naturopathy. These courses are set up for foreign nationals with medical background; see the website for more information.

Bala Hanuman Temple

4 Sleeping

₹2/50; h10am-1.15pm & 2.45-6pm Thu-Tue, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month) which preserves the

HINDU TEMPLE

Old City

AREA

The heart of the old city is known as Chandi Bazaar (Silver Market – which it is, among other things) and it contains, besides a heaving commercial scene, three beautiful Jain temples. The larger two, Shantinath Mandir and Adinath Mandir, dedicated to the 16th and first tirthankars, explode with fine murals, mirrored domes and elaborate chandeliers. The Shantinath Mandir is particularly beautiful, with coloured columns and a gilt-edged dome of concentric circles. Around the temples spreads the old city with its lovely buildings of wood and stone, peeling, pastel-coloured shutters and crumbling wooden balconies. Willingdon Crescent, a European-style arcaded crescent, was built by Jam Ranjitsinhji to replace Jamnagar’s worst slum. It now houses an assortment of shops, and is commonly known as Darbargadh after the now-empty royal residence across the street. Subhas market, the vegetable market, has lots of local colour.

C Courses

Gujarat Ayurved University AYURVEDA (%2677324; www.ayurveduniversity.edu.in; Chanakya Bhavan, Hospital Rd) The world’s first

Hotel President HOTEL $$ (%2557491; www.hotelpresident.in; Teen Batti; r ₹750, with AC ₹1450-2000; a) This hotel has

helpful management and a range of reasonable rooms. The AC rooms have street views and are bigger and generally better than the non-AC, which are in the rear. Many rooms of both types have balconies. The recommended 7 Seas Restaurant is also here.

Hotel Ashiana HOTEL $ (%2559110; www.ashianahotel.com; New Super Market; s ₹325-1300, d ₹375-1500; ai) Ram-

bling, welcoming Ashiana has helpful management and a variety of well-kept rooms, from simple and plain to large and comfortable. There’s a large, pot-plant-decked roof terrace to enjoy in the evenings, and free airport, station and bus station transfers. Enter by lift or stairs from inside the New Super Market shopping centre.

Hotel Aram HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%2551701; www.hotelaram.com; Pandit Nehru Marg; r ₹1300-2500, ste ₹3000-5000; aiW)

This former royal property has more potential magnificence than actual opulence. For the money the rooms are a little past their prime, though it is not without charm, and the rooms are spacious. There’s a good multicuisine veg restaurant (mains ₹50 to ₹125) with garden seating.

Hotel Kirti HOTEL (%2558602; Teen Batti; r ₹400-550, with AC ₹800-1500; a) The Kirti is a good-value

option, with well appointed and clean, if drab, rooms that have a bit of a view.

SAUR ASHTR AHNSTAG ISG HA TRS GUJAR AT JSAI GM

This temple on the southeastern side of Ranmal Lake has been the scene of continuous chanting of the prayer Shri Ram, Jai Ram, Jai Jai Ram since 1 August 1964. This devotion has earned the temple a place in an Indian favourite, the Guinness Book of Records. Early evening is a good time to visit as the temple and lakeside area get busy.

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7 Seas Restaurant MULTICUISINE $$ (Hotel President, Teen Batti; mains ₹90-190) This

cool, clean, eﬃcient hotel restaurant has a nautical theme and a touch of class, oﬀering a good range of veg and non-veg dishes, including seafood and tandoori options. The tandoori bhindi (okra) is a triumph.

Hotel Swati MULTICUISINE $ (Teen Batti; mains ₹40-110; hlunch & dinner) This

upstairs, AC vegetarian restaurant has a faded ambience, but is well run and offers a big range of tasty South Indian, Chinese and Punjabi dishes, plus the odd pizza.

simple, friendly, bustling restaurant with generous serves of Punjabi, South Indian and Chinese in clean surroundings.

The website www.jamnagar.org is full of useful information for visitors.

SBI by the Town Hall roundabout, and Bank of Baroda and Bank of India on Ranjit Rd, change travellers cheques and cash between 10am and 4pm Monday to Friday. Hotel President will also change foreign currency. Surf the internet at IWorld (1st fl, Indraprasth Shopping Centre, Pancheshwar Tower Rd; per 75min ₹30; h24hr) or Cyber City (bottom fl, City Point Shopping Centre; per hr ₹20; h9am10pm).

8 Getting There & Away

AIR Indian Airlines (%2554768; www.indian

Fresh Point INDIAN, CHINESE $ (Town Hall Rd; mains ₹30-70; hlunch & dinner) A

This buzzing eatery is basic and popular and pumps out vegetarian South Indian, Jain, Punjabi, as well as the odd pizza. It has AC and non-AC rooms.

Mandvi Tower

Madras Hotel INDIAN (Teen Batti; mains ₹35-85; hlunch & dinner)

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5 Eating

8 Information

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-airlines.nic.in; Bhid Bhanjan Rd) has daily flights to Mumbai. BUS ST buses run to Rajkot (₹53, two hours, half-hourly), Junagadh (₹80, four hours, about hourly) and Ahmedabad (₹166 to ₹186, seven hours, about hourly). There are also numerous private companies, many based west of the clock tower, including Patel Tours with nine daily Volvo AC buses to Ahmedabad (₹380, seven hours) and three non-AC buses to Bhuj (seat/sleeper ₹210/280, six hours). TRAIN The 19006 Saurashtra Mail departs at 3.35pm for Rajkot (sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC ₹130/235/294/477, 1¾ hours), Ahmedabad (₹174/445/601/1005, seven hours) and Mumbai (₹310/832/1136/1906, 16 hours).

Jamnagar

Marine National Park NATURE RESERVE (6 Indians or 1 foreigner ₹250) This national park

Transport 10 Indian Airlines ...................................... A1 11 Patel Tours...........................................A2

Western Saurashtra

æ Sights 1 Subhas Market.....................................D2 2 Willingdon Crescent ............................D3 ÿ Sleeping 3 Hotel Ashiana....................................... B1 4 Hotel Kirti ............................................. B1 5 Hotel President.................................... B1 ú Eating 7 Seas Restaurant ........................(see 5) 6 Fresh Point........................................... B1 7 Hotel Swati........................................... B1 8 Madras Hotel ....................................... B1

8 Getting Around

An autorickshaw from the airport, 6km west, should be around ₹50, and a taxi ₹150. An autorickshaw from the bus stand to Bedi Gate costs ₹20.

Around Jamnagar Permits for these protected areas are available from the Forest Office (%2679355;

Nagnath Gate, Van Sankul, Ganjiwada, Jamnagar;

h10.30am-12.30pm & 4-5.30pm Mon-Sat).

Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary BIRDWATCHING (6 Indians or 1 foreigner ₹250) This small (6 sq

km) sanctuary, about 12km northeast of Jamnagar, encompasses both salt- and freshwater marshlands and hosts over 200 bird species including rarities like the Dalmatian pelican and black-necked stork. The best months are October to March and the best times of day around sunrise or sunset. The evening arrival of cranes for roosting can be spectacular. A return taxi costs around ₹1200, or you can take a bus (₹10) to nearby Khijadiya, then walk 3km.

Mahatma Gandhi was born in 1869 in the chaotic port town of Porbandar, 130km southwest of Jamnagar. You can visit Gandhi’s birthplace – a 22-room, 220-year-old house – and a memorial next door, Kirti Mandir. Dwarka, 106km from Jamnagar at the western tip of the Kathiawar Peninsula, is one of the four holiest Hindu pilgrimage sites in India – Krishna is said to have set up his capital here after fleeing from Mathura. Its Dwarkadhish Temple is believed to have been founded over 2500 years ago, and has a fantastically carved, 78m-high spire. The town swells to breaking point for Janmastami in August/September in celebration of Krishna’s birthday. There are some good beaches on the ocean coast, including the beautiful, long, clean Okhamadhi, 22km south of Dwarka – waves can be strong here – and the calmer Shivrajpur, a long lagoon beach 12km north of Dwarka. En route to Porbandar, the Barda Wildlife Sanctuary is a hilly, forested area with stone-built villages, old temples and good hiking. A good contact for more information on visiting these and other oﬀ-the-beaten-track places in western Saurashtra is Mustak Mepani (%98242277886; www.jamnagar.org) at Jamnagar’s Hotel President.

709

SAUR ASHTR GUJAR AT A 8 RA O U8N D J A M N AG A R

Information 9 Forest Office ........................................ C1

and the adjoining Marine Sanctuary encompass the intertidal zone and 42 small islands along some 120km of coast east and west of Jamnagar – an area rich in marine and bird life which faces growing challenges from industrialisation. Corals, octopus, anemones, puﬀer fish, sea horses, lobsters and crabs are among the marine life you may see in shallow water at low tide. The best time to visit is from December to March, when wintering birds are plentiful. Access and obtaining permits can be a little complicated, so it’s advisable to enlist local help such as that of Mustak Mepani (%98242277886; www.jamnagar.org), manager at Hotel President. Mr Mepani can arrange a guided day-trip for up to six people to Pirotan Island, a two-hour boat ride through creeks and channels north of Jamnagar, for around ₹12,000; or a car trip to Narara island, 60km west of Jamnagar, for ₹2000 including guide.

æ Top Sights Adinath Mandir ....................................C3 Bala Hanuman Temple........................B3 Lakhota Palace ....................................A3 Shantinath Mandir...............................C3

KACHCHH (KUTCH)

Bhuj % 02832 / POP 136,500

The capital of Kachchh is an interesting city resurrected from the 2001 earthquake. Its beguiling bazaars sell amazing Kachchh handicrafts, and historic buildings such as the Aina Mahal and Prag Mahal possess an eerie beauty. Bhuj is an ideal springboard for visits to the surrounding villages, and textile tourism is attracting visitors from around the world. The Jadeja Rajputs who took control of Kachchh in 1510 made Bhuj their capital 29 years later, and it has remained Kachchh’s most important town ever since.

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PALACES

This walled complex from which Kachchh was once ruled is still in need of much repair after the 2001 earthquake. The 17thcentury Rani Mahal, the former main royal residence, is completely closed up, though you can still admire the latticed windows of its zenana (women’s quarters). Largest of the

‚

GUJAR AT K AC H C H H ( K U TC H )

Kachchh, India’s wild west, is a geographic phenomenon. The flat, tortoise-shaped land (kachbo means tortoise in Gujarati), edged by the Gulf of Kachchh and Great and Little Ranns, is a seasonal island. During the dry season, the Ranns are vast expanses of hard, dried mud. Come the monsoon, they’re flooded first by seawater, then by fresh river water. The salt in the soil makes the lowlying marsh area almost completely barren. Only on scattered ‘islands’ above the salt level is there coarse grass which provides fodder for the region’s wildlife. The villages dotted across Kachchh’s arid landscape are home to a jigsaw of tribal groups and sub-castes who produce some of India’s finest handicrafts, above all their textiles which glitter with exquisite embroidery and mirrorwork. A branch of the Indus River once entered the Great Rann until a massive earthquake in 1819 altered its course. Another mammoth earthquake in January 2001 again altered the landscape, killing nearly 30,000 people and destroying many villages completely. Although the eﬀects of the tragedy will resonate for generations, the residents have determinedly rebuilt their lives and are welcoming to visitors. Tax breaks to encourage economic

recovery have brought in new industrial plants, but by and large Kachchh still remains a refreshingly pristine, rural environment.

‚

710

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three palaces here is the 19th-century Prag

Mahal (New Palace; Indian/foreigner ₹20/100, camera/video ₹100/200; h9am-noon & 3-6pm Feb-Nov, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Dec & Jan). It’s in a sad state and most sections are

closed, but it’s worth visiting for its ghostly Durbar Hall, a wonderful piece of decayed magnificence with broken chandeliers, rotting hunting trophies covered in bird droppings, and gold-skirted classical statues that wouldn’t look out of place decorating a nightclub. The beautiful Aina Mahal (Old Palace; admission ₹10, camera ₹30; h9am-noon & 3-6pm Sun-Fri), built in the 1750s, was badly

Kachchh Museum MUSEUM (College Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹2/50; h10am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm Thu-Tue, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month) Opposite Hamirsar Tank, Gujarat’s

oldest museum has eclectic and worthwhile displays spanning textiles, weapons, silverware, sculpture, wildlife, geography and dioramas of Kachchh tribal costumes and artefacts, with labelling in English and Gujarati. Folk Art Museum MUSEUM (Bharatiya Sanskriti Darshan; admission ₹10, camera ₹50; h9am-noon & 3-6pm Mon-Sat) This mu-

seum has excellent displays on traditional Kachchh culture, including reconstructed Rabari bhungas (mud-and-mirrorwork huts), musical instruments, many wood and stone carvings and much more. It’s a further 700m south of the Kachchh Museum, oﬀ Mandvi Rd.

Sharad Baug Palace PALACE (admission ₹10, camera/video ₹20/100; h9amnoon & 3-6pm Sat-Thu) This graceful 1867 Itali-

anate palace, on the west side of Hamirsar Tank in the midst of shady trees full of crows and bats, was the abode of the last Maharao of Kachchh, Madansingh, until his death in

Bhuj æ Top Sights Darbargadh .............................................B1 Kachchh Museum.................................. B2 Sharad Baug Palace ...............................A1 æ Sights 1 Aina Mahal...............................................B1 2 Prag Mahal ..............................................B1 3 Rani Mahal...............................................B1 ÿ Sleeping 4 City Guest House....................................B1 5 Hotel Annapurna ....................................D1 6 Hotel Gangaram .....................................B1 7 Hotel Ilark ............................................... D2 8 Hotel Prince ........................................... D2 ú Eating 9 Green Rock............................................. B2 10 Hotel Nilam ............................................ D2

711

11 Noorani Mahal ........................................ D1 12 Sankalp ...................................................C2

þ Shopping 13 Bhoomi Handicrafts...............................C2 14 Crossword ..............................................C2 15 Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan............................................B3 16 Señorita Boutique .................................. B1 Information Tourist Information Office ............................................. (see 1) Transport 17 Hemal Travels.........................................C2 18 Jay Somnath Travels .............................B2 19 Jeeps for Mandvi ....................................C2 20 Kingfisher Airlines ..................................C3 21 ST Bus Stand..........................................C2

K ACHCHH GUJAR AT B S(KUTCH) IHGUHJT S S I G H T S

damaged in the earthquake, but the 1st and 2nd floors are open again and contain a fascinating museum with excellent explanatory information in English. The palace was built for Maharao Lakhpatji by Ramsingh Malam, a sailor from Dwarka who had learned European arts and crafts on his travels. The elaborately mirrored interior is a demonstration of the maharao’s fascination with all things European – an inverted mirror of European Orientalism – with blue-and-white Delft-style tiling, a candelabra with Venetian-glass shades and the Hogarth lithograph series The Rake’s Progress. In the bedroom is a bed with solid gold legs (the king apparently auctioned his bed annually). In the Fuvara Mahal room, fountains played around the ruler while he sat watching dancers or composing poems.

It’s estimated that the Aina Mahal will cost ₹2.5 million to repair fully. Donations are gratefully received – contact Pramod Jethi, the curator, at the museum for details (receipts are given).

712

1991. It lost most of its 3rd floor in the 2001 earthquake, and the remaining lower floors are closed. However, the adjacent former dining hall now houses the palace’s eclectic museum collection. Standout exhibits are two huge stuﬀed tigers that the erstwhile maharao shot, and his coﬃn.

4 Sleeping

Hotel Prince HOTEL $$ (%220370; www.hotelprinceonline.com; Station Rd; s/d ₹900/1100, s with AC ₹2000-4000, d with AC ₹2500-4800; aiW) The Prince has slick

service, smart rooms, good restaurants, and free airport transfers. You can get an alcohol permit from reception (free), though you will need to find a fridge to chill the warm beer from its wine shop.

Hotel Gangaram HOTEL $ (%224231; Darbargadh Chowk; s/d ₹300/600, with AC ₹800/1000; a) In the old city, near the

GUJAR AT K AC H C H H ( K U TC H )

Darbargadh, this is a great place – run by kindly Mr Jethi (not to be confused with the Aina Mahal curator) – where nothing is too much trouble. The rooms vary greatly so it might be worth inspecting a few. The meals here are delicious. Hotel Mangalam HOTEL $$ (%220303; www.mangalamhotels.com; Mangalam Cross Roads; s/d ₹900/1200, s with AC ₹15502700, d with AC ₹1850-3600; aW) Towards the

south edge of town, the new Mangalam has big, bright, modern rooms with comfy furnishings and mostly good views. It’s professionally run and on a nice human scale with just 17 rooms. The excellent Yellow Chilli restaurant is here, and free airport transfers are offered. City Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (%221067; Langa St; d ₹300, s/d without bathroom from ₹120/240) Just off Shroff Bazaar, this is

unusually bright and cheery for a budget guesthouse, and has neat, ultraclean, basic rooms. Bathrooms have either squat toilets or the hybrid variety. Breakfast is available, there are two airy roof terraces, and you can rent motorbikes for ₹400 per day. Hotel Ilark HOTEL $$ (%258999; www.hotelilark.com; Station Rd; s ₹1800-3200, d ₹2200-3800, ste from ₹4000; ai) This glitzy-looking modern hotel has

quite stylish wood-panelled, woodfurnished rooms that more or less live up to the promise of the angular glass-andred-paint exterior. Service is professional.

Hotel Annapurna HOTEL (%220831; hotelannapurna@yahoo.com; Bhid Gate; dm ₹70, s/d ₹225/300, without bathroom ₹150/200, with AC ₹700/800; a) Annapurna

has a nice atmosphere, and friendly staff, but stands on a frenetically busy junction. Rooms are clean and some have balconies so you can overlook the mayhem.

5 Eating oYellow Chilli

MUGHLAI $$

(Hotel Mangalam, Mangalam Cross Roads; mains around ₹150, buﬀet lunch ₹175-200; hlunch & dinner) A branch of a franchise run by celebrity

chef Sanjeev Kapoor, the Yellow Chilli serves up innovative, delicious, pure-veg Mughlaibased dishes. Well worth a quick rickshaw ride from the city centre. Hotel Nilam INDIAN, CHINESE $ (Station Rd; mains ₹60-90) Good service by

bow-tied, waistcoated waiters complements tasty vegetarian North and South Indian and Chinese dishes at this long, white, AC and highly popular restaurant. There’s Gujarati thali (₹110) at lunchtime. Sankalp SOUTH INDIAN (Hotel Oasis, New Station Rd; mains ₹50-120; h11am-11pm) A quality chain restaurant

Green Rock MULTICUISINE (Bus Stand Rd; mains ₹90-140, thali ₹120-150; h11am-3pm & 7-10.30pm) This 1st-floor, AC

Noorani Mahal INDIAN (Station Rd; mains ₹55-110; h11.30am-3pm & 7-11pm) This popular non-veg place

with booth seating serving up excellent South Indian food.

place serves up tasty lunchtime thalis as well as an extensive all-veg menu.

gets packed out with mostly men eating chicken, but there’s also mutton and veg cooked in the tandoor or in a spicy North Indian curry.

Shopping

Crossword BOOKSTORE (Bus Stand Rd; h8am-2pm & 4-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) A tiny branch of this fran-

chise with some English-language books on Kachchh. Books are also sold at the Aina Mahal and Hotel Prince.

8 Information

You’ll find Bank of Baroda and SBI ATMs on Station Rd, and an HDFC ATM on Bus Stand Rd.

Ashapura Money Changer (Station Rd; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) Changes currency and travellers cheques, as will most midrange hotels. State Bank of India (Hospital Rd; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Changes travellers cheques or currency. Tourist information office (%291702, 9374235379; Aina Mahal, Darbargadh; h9amnoon & 3-6pm Sun-Fri) Pramod Jethi, the knowledgeable curator of the Aina Mahal, knows all there is to know about Bhuj and surrounding villages. He’s also written a very useful guide to Kachchh (₹100), published in both English and French. Universal Cyber Cafe (1st fl, Tara Empire; per hr ₹20; h9am-10pm) You can surf the internet in small cubicles here.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com) and Kingfisher Airlines (%1800 2093030; www .flykingfisher.com; Hospital Rd) have daily flights to Mumbai.

Train Bhuj station is 1.5km north of the centre and has a reservations oﬃce (h8am-8pm MonSat, 8am-2pm Sun). The 14312 Ala Hazrat Express leaves at 11.05am (Monday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday) and arrives at Ahmedabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹180/462/624) at 6.50pm, continuing to Abu Road, Jaipur and Delhi. The 19116 Bhuj-Bandra Sayaji Express leaves at 10.15pm daily and hits Ahmedabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC ₹180/462/624) at 5.05am.

8 Getting Around

The airport is 5km north of town – a taxi will cost around ₹200, an autorickshaw ₹100. Autorickshaws to the train station cost ₹30.

Around Bhuj The local Jat, Ahir, Harijan, nomadic Rabari and other communities have distinct, colourful craft traditions that make their vil-

Shaam-e-Sarhad Village Resort (%02803-296222; www.hodka.in; tent s/d ₹1900/2200, bhunga s/d ₹3000/3500, incl 3 meals; hOct-Mar), just outside Hodka, in the

beautiful Banni grasslands 70km north of Bhuj, is a fascinating and successful project in ‘endogenous tourism’. Owned and operated by the Halepotra people, its accommodation consists of three bhungas with sloping roofs and neat interiors, and nine luxurious earth-floored tents, all with private bathroom. Local guides cost ₹200 per day for birdwatching or visits to villages in the area like Hodka, Khavda (known for

713

K ACHCHH GUJAR AT A 8(KUTCH) R O U N D B8H U J

Bus Numerous ST buses run to Ahmedabad (₹150 to ₹158, nine hours), Rajkot (₹125, seven hours) and Jamnagar (₹165, seven hours). Book private buses at Hemal Travels (Bus Stand Rd; h8am-9pm), just outside the bus station, for Ahmedabad (seat/sleeper ₹220/320, AC ₹300/400, nine hours, five daily) and Jamnagar (₹200/300, six hours, one bus at 9.30pm), or at Jay Somnath Travels (Bus Stand Rd; h8am9pm) for Rajkot (₹160, seven hours, five daily).

lages fascinating to visit. See p714 for some recommended artisans and organisations. Bhujodi, about 7km southeast of Bhuj, is a village of weavers, mostly using pit looms, operated by both feet and hands. You can look into many workshops, which weave attractive shawls, blankets and other products. The village is 1km off Hwy 42. You can take a bus towards Ahmedabad and ask the driver to drop you at the turn-off for Bhujodi (₹7). A return rickshaw from Bhuj costs ₹250. In the hills about 60km northwest of Bhuj is the eerie monastery at Than. The holy man Dhoramnath, as penance for a curse he had made, stood on his head on top of Dhinodhar hill for 12 years. The gods pleaded with him to stop, and he agreed, provided the first place he looked at became barren – hence the Great Rann. He then established the Kanphata (Slit Ears) monastic order, whose monastery (dating back to at least the 12th century) stands at the foot of the hill. This is a laid-back place to explore the surrounding hills, and the architecture ranges from crumbling mud brick to Portuguese-style stucco, blue and whitewash bell towers, with a hint of basil and marigold in the air. There’s one bus daily to Than from Bhuj (₹40, two hours) at 5pm, returning early next morning. The monastery and the temple atop Dhinodhar have very basic guest rooms with mattresses on the floor (pay by donation) but no drinking water. You need a permit to visit some villages in the northern and western parts of Kachchh, but this is easy to obtain. Take a copy of your passport and visa (and the originals) to the office of the District Superintendent of Police (h11am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat), 800m south of Kachchh Museum in Bhuj, and complete a form listing the villages you want to visit – you should get the permit (free of charge; maximum 10 days) straight away. Drivers will need permits for themselves and their vehicles too.

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KACHCHH CREATIVITY

GUJAR AT K AC H C H H ( K U TC H )

Kachchh (Kutch) is one of India’s richest areas for handicrafts, particularly famed for its beautiful, colourful embroidery work (of which there are at least 14 distinct styles), but it also has many artisans specialising in weaving, tie-dye, block printing, wood-carving, pottery and other crafts. The diversity of Kachchh crafts reflects the differing traditions of its many communities. Numerous local cooperatives invest in social projects and help artisans produce work that is marketable yet still preserves their artistic heritage. Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan (%02832-256281; 11 Nutan Colony, Bhuj) is a grassroots organisation, comprising 12,000 rural women (1200 artisans), that pays members a dividend of the profits and invests money to meet social needs. The embroidery and patchwork are exquisite, employing the distinctive styles of several communities. Products go under the brand name Qasab and range from bags and bedspreads to cushion covers and wall hangings. Visit the head office in Bhuj, the Qasab outlet at Hotel Prince, or Khavda, a village about 80km north of Bhuj. Kala Raksha (%02808-277237; www.kala-raksha.org; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat), based at Sumrasar Sheikh, 25km north of Bhuj, is a nonprofit trust working to preserve and promote Kachchh arts. It works with about 1000 embroiderers and patchwork and appliqué artisans from six communities in some 25 villages. The trust has a small museum and shop, and can help arrange visits to villages to meet artisans. Up to 80% of sale price goes to the artisans, who also help design and price the goods. Vankar Vishram Valji (%02832-240723; Bhujodi; h8am-8pm) is a family operation and one of the leading weavers in Bhujodi; it sells beautiful blankets, shawls, stoles and rugs. Shrujan (%02832-240272; www.shrujan.org; Bhujodi; h10am-7.30pm), just past the Bhujodi turn-off, behind the GEB Substation, is a nonprofit trust working with over 3000 women embroiderers of nine communities in 114 villages. Their showroom sells top-class shawls, saris, cushion covers and more. Dr Ismail Mohammad Khatri (%02832-299786, 9427719313; dr.ismail2005@gmail. com; h9am-5pm) in Ajrakhpur, 6km east of Bhujodi along the Bhachau road, heads a 10-generation-old block-printing business of real quality, using all-natural dyes in bold geometric designs. Go in the morning if you want to see a demonstration of the fascinating, highly skilled process. You can buy tablecloths, shawls, skirts, saris and other attractive products. Parmarth (%02832-273453; 106 Ramkrushn Nagar, New Dhaneti; h8.30am-9pm), run by a delightful family whose work has won national awards, specialises in Ahir embroidery. New Dhaneti is 17km east of Bhujodi on the Bhachau road. Khamir (%02832-271272; www.khamir.org; Lakhond Crossroad, Kukma Rd, Kukma; h9am5.30pm) is an umbrella organisation dedicated to preserving and encouraging Kachchh crafts in all their diversity. At the Kukma centre you can see demonstrations and buy some of the artisans’ products. It’s about 4km beyond Bhujodi in the Anjar direction. In Bhuj, textile dealers line Shroff Bazaar just east of the Darbargadh. However, plenty of so-called block-printed fabric is in fact screen-printed. A good shop is Señorita Boutique (%02832-226773; Shroff Bazaar; h8.30am-9pm), which sells various regional types of embroidery and tie-dyeing. Bhoomi Handicrafts (%02832-225808; Bus Stand Rd; h9am-9pm) is popular with locals. If you’re interested in antique embroidery, contact Mr AA Wazir (%02832-224187; Plot 107B, Lotus Colony, Bhuj; awazir1@rediffmail.com), opposite the General Hospital. He has a stunning collection of more than 3000 pieces, about half of which are for sale.

its pottery and textiles) or Ludia (known for its mudwork), or Kalo Dungar (Black Hill, Kachchh’s highest point at 462m above sea level), or the Great Rann itself, with its snow-glare of salt (you may need to provide

your own transport). You can also just call in for a superb thali lunch (₹125).

SCentre for Desert & Ocean (CEDO;

%02835-221284,

9825248135; www.cedobirding

Complex (%02837-277395; s/d ₹200/300, with AC ₹650/700; a) at Dholavira oﬀers basic ac-

commodation and meals.

Mandvi % 02834 / POP 45,000

Mandvi is an hour down the road from Bhuj and is a busy little place with an amazing shipbuilding yard. Hundreds of men construct, by hand, these wooden beauties for faraway Arab merchants. The massive timbers apparently come from Malaysian rainforests. There are also some sweeping beaches, including the glorious, long, clean private beach (₹100) near Vijay Vilas Palace, and Kashivishvanath Beach, 2km from the centre just east of the Rukmavati River.

1 Sights & Activities

Vijay Vilas Palace PALACE (admission Mon-Sat ₹25, Sun ₹35, vehicle ₹20, camera/video ₹50/200; h8.30am-6.30pm) Vijay Vi-

las Palace is a nicely proportioned 1920s palace reminiscent of an English country house, 7km west of town amid extensive orchards, and set by a magnificent private beach. Originally a summer abode for the Kachchh rulers, its 1st floor (out of bounds to visitors) is now the erstwhile royal family’s main residence. The view from the roof is worth the climb, and the gardens make a nice stroll.

Autorickshaws charge about ₹80/125 oneway/return from town. You can walk back to town along the beach if you like.

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Kutch Vipassana Centre MEDITATION (%02834-273303; www.sindhu.dhamma.org) At

Bada village, 22km west of Mandvi, this centre runs 10-day vipassana meditation retreats for beginners. Courses, accommodation and food are free but donations are accepted.

4 Sleeping & Eating

The Beach at Mandvi Palace HOTEL $$$ (%277597, 9879013118; www.mandvibeach.com; 2-night package s/d ₹11,000/12,000) A small

tent resort in a fantastic location on the private 2.5km beach stretching down from Vijay Vilas Palace. The luxurious air-cooled tents have big beds, white-tiled bathrooms and solid wood furniture. The resort’s Dolphin restaurant (meal veg/non-veg ₹400/450; & 7-9pm) is a wonderful beach pa-

h1-3pm

vilion that is open to nonguests if not full with guests. The beach is open to nonguest couples, families and foreigners for ₹100 per person unless you are having a meal at the Dolphin.

Rukmavati Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (%223558, 9429040484; www.rukmavatihotel .webs.com; Bridge Gate; dm ₹175, s/d from ₹300/400, r with AC ₹900; a) The best Indian

hospital to spend the night in, this pleasant former medical centre, just by the bridge as you enter town, doesn’t feel institutional. It’s light, bright, clean and welcoming to travellers, with solar-water heaters and

EXPLORING KACHCHH It is possible to get out to Kachchh’s villages by public transport – for example, there are hourly buses to Sumrasar Sheikh (₹15, one hour) and three a day to Khavda (₹50, two hours). You can also use autorickshaws to villages not too far from the city. But you’ll have many more options and more flexibility if you rent a car and driver – most Bhuj hotels can organise this for you. An excellent option is the customised autorickshaw tours (per half/ whole day ₹500/1000) to villages outside Bhuj organised by Pramod Jethi (%9374235379; pkumar_94@yahoo.com), curator at the Aina Mahal.

K ACHCHH S I GTHI VTIST I&E SAC T I V I T I E S GUJAR AT M S(KUTCH) IAGNHDV T SI & AC

.com; Moti Virani; per person incl all meals ₹1500), 53km northwest of Bhuj, is a wildlife conservation organisation run by passionate environmentalist Jugal Tiwari. It does birding and wildlife trips focusing on the wildliferich Banni grasslands (between Sumrasar Sheikh and Khavda). Accommodation is in plain but well-kept rooms with 24-hour solar-heated hot water; meals are Gujarati vegetarian. They can pick you up from Bhuj for ₹1200, or you can get a bus to Nakhtrana, followed by an autorickshaw 3km to Moti Virani. A day safari starting from Bhuj is ₹2500 (with AC ₹3000). An expert naturalist/ birder guide costs ₹1500 per day. A long drive northeast from Bhuj is the fascinating and remote Harappan site of Dholavira, on a seasonal island in the Great Rann. Excavations have revealed a complex town of stone buildings 1 sq km in area, inhabited from around 2900 to 1500 BC. It’s best to organise your own transport: the only bus to Dholavira leaves Bhuj at 2pm (₹80, seven hours) and starts back at 5am. The state-government-run Toran Tourist

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self-catering facilities. Some rooms have river-view balconies, and there’s a nice terrace. Owner Vinod is a gentleman, and the town’s unoﬃcial tourist oﬃcer, with maps and heaps of helpful info. Hotel Sea View HOTEL $ (%224481; www.hotelseaviewmandvi.com; cnr ST & Jain Dharamsala Rds; r ₹500, with AC ₹11002000; a) A small hotel facing the river,

this has brightly decorated rooms with big windows that make the most of the views of the shipbuilding.

Zorba the Buddha GUJARATI $ (1st fl, Osho Hotel, Bhid Gate; thali ₹70; h11am-3pm & 7-10pm) In the heart of the town, Zorba’s

is a massively popular place for wonderfully flavourful, endless and cheap Kachchh-style thalis. It’s also known as Rajneesh Hotel, and the sign outside says ‘Osho’. Gabha’s Roti STREET FOOD $ (roti ₹5; h11am-1.30pm daily, 6-8.30pm Mon-Sat)

GUJAR AT K AC H C H H ( K U TC H )

Don’t leave Mandvi without tracking down these famed bread rolls with their very spicy potato, garlic, chutney and masala filling. Mr Gabha frequently sells 1000 in an hour. At lunchtime his stall can be found at the vegetable market (Mochi Bazar); in the evenings it’s on Swaminarayan Rd.

8 Getting There & Away

Regular buses to/from Bhuj (₹22 to ₹32) take 1½ to two hours. Or you can take faster shared jeep-taxis (₹30 or ₹35) which run between the street south of Bhuj’s vegetable market and Mandvi. For least discomfort, sit at the front and buy an extra seat for your luggage. Several agencies including Patel Tours & Travels, by the Sea View Hotel, sell tickets for private buses to Ahmedabad (seat/sleeper non-AC ₹250/350, with AC ₹350/450, 11 hours), mostly leaving between 7pm and 8.30pm.

Wild Ass Sanctuary The barren, blindingly white land of the Little Rann is nature at its harshest and most compelling, and home to the last remaining population of the chestnut-coloured Indian wild ass (also called khur), as well as bluebulls, blackbuck and chinkara. There’s also a huge bird population from October to March (this is one of the few areas in India where flamingos breed in the wild). The 4953-sq-km Wild Ass Sanctuary (jeep with

up to 6 passengers Indians/foreigners ₹200/US$20 Mon-Fri, ₹250/US$25 Sat & Sun; guide per 4hr ₹50)

covers a large part of the Little Rann. The area is accessible from Ahmedabad and can be combined with interesting destinations such as Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary, Modhera and Patan. The Little Rann is punctuated by desolate salt farms, where people eke out a living by pumping up groundwater and extracting the salt. Heat mirages disturb the vast horizon – bushes and trees seem to hover above the surface. Rain turns the desert into a sea of mud, and even during the dry season the solid-looking crust is often deceptive, so it’s essential you take a local guide when exploring the area. There are somewhere between 2000 and 3000 khurs in the sanctuary, surviving oﬀ the flat, grass-covered expanses or islands, known as bets, which rise up to around 3m. These remarkable, notoriously untamable creatures are capable of running at an average speed of 50km/h for long distances.

Desert Coursers (%9998305501, 9427066070; www.desertcoursers.net), run by

infectiously enthusiastic naturalist Dhanraj Malik, organises excellent Little Rann safaris and village tours from its Camp Zainabad (full board per person ₹2500; hAug-Apr; a), very close to the east edge of the Little Rann and just outside the small town of Zainabad, 105km northwest of Ahmedabad. The lodge has comfortable and attractive koobas (traditional thatch-roofed huts) and excellent meals, in a peaceful, remote setting. The price includes unlimited jeep safaris. Advance booking is advised. To get to Zainabad from Ahmedabad, you can take a bus from Ahmedabad’s ST bus stand to Dasada, 10km away (₹70, 2½ hours, about hourly), where Desert Coursers does free pick-ups. There are direct buses between Zainabad and Patan (₹65, 2½ hours, two daily) via Modhera (₹45, 1½ hours). Desert Coursers can arrange taxis around the area for ₹4.5 per kilometre. Rann Riders (%9925236014; www.rannrid ers.com; s/d incl all meals & 2 safaris ₹4500/5800; as), near Dasada, is also family-run and

oﬀers luxurious cottage accommodation in pretty gardens, plus jeep and camel safaris and its own stable of indigenous horses for riding. You may also approach from Dhrangadhra. The town itself is worth visiting, if only to break up the Bhuj–Ahmedabad hike. The streets and alleys wind around each other, and almost every turn is a mosaic of

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd whitewashed and coloured buildings of all periods, description and type. Temple bells ring out, and the locals aren’t used to tourists, making for some refreshing dialogue. The personable Devjibhai Dhamecha

(%9825548090, 02754-280560; www.littlerann. com) is a wildlife photographer who makes a

wonderful guide. You can stay at his appealing house (Dev Krupa, Jinplot, Dhrangadhra; per person incl meals ₹500) or his recently opened

Eco Tour Camp (Jogad village; tents per person ₹750, hut s/d ₹1500/2000, all incl meals) which

has colourful koobas near the edge of the sanctuary, 40km northwest of Dhrangadhra. Six-/eight-hour safaris to the sanctuary from either place cost ₹2000/3000 per jeep. If you can’t get Devjibhai, try his son Ajaybhai (%9825548104). Dhrangadhra is on the Bhuj–Ahmedabad rail route, 215km from Bhuj (3AC ₹350, five hours) and 120km from Ahmedabad (3AC

₹258, three hours). It’s well served by buses, for example to and from Ahmedabad (₹50, three hours) and Bhuj (₹100, five hours). The guides mentioned will arrange your permits for the reserve; the cost of these is normally additional to safari prices. An hour south of Dhrangadhra on the Ahmedabad–Rajkot highway is Sayla, a peaceful, pastoral town that swells during the Tarnetar Fair in August/September.

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Bell Guest House (%9724678145; spjhala@ yahoo.co.in; r incl breakfast ₹3000; a), presided

over by the erstwhile ruling family of Sayla, is a wonderful homestay retreat down a lane oﬀ the Sayla roundabout on Hwy 8A. Rooms have spacious ensuite bathrooms. You can look for bluebulls and peacocks in the surrounding countryside or take trips further afield to see wild asses, blackbuck, the birds of Nalsarovar or a variety of artisans in area villages.

K ACHCHH GUJAR AT W 8(KUTCH) I L D A S S 8S A N C T UA R Y

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Mumbai (Bombay) Why Go? Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .723 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 731 Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 731 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .732 Festivals & Events . . . . .734 Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . .736 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 741 Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . .745 Entertainment . . . . . . . . 747 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . .748 Greater Mumbai . . . . . .756

Best Places to Eat » Khyber (p741)

Mumbai is a beautiful mess, full of dreamers and hardlabourers, actors and gangsters, stray dogs and exotic birds, artists and servants, fisherfolk and crorepatis (millionaires), and lots more. Its crumbling architecture in various states of Technicolor dilapidation is a reminder that Mumbai once dreamt even bigger, leaving a brick-and-mortar museum around its maze of chaotic streets as evidence that its place in the world has always been a poetic disaster. Today Mumbai is home to the most prolific film industry, one of Asia’s biggest slums and the largest tropical forest in an urban zone. It’s India’s financial powerhouse, fashion epicentre and a pulse point of religious tension. Between the fantastical architecture and the modern skyscrapers, the fine dining and frenetic streets, the urban grit and suburban glamour, the madness and the mayhem, there’s a cinematic cityscape set to a playful and addictive raga – a complex soundtrack that dances to the beat of its own desii drum.

» Peshawri (p745)

» Five Spice (p742) » Trishna (p743)

» Culture Curry (p745)

When to Go Mumbai (Bombay) °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

Best Places to Stay » Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai (p736) » Iskcon (p740) » YWCA (p737)

» Hotel Moti (p737)

» Residency Hotel (p738)

24/600

20/68

16/400 0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Apr–May Some like it hot…some like it hot.

Aug–Sep Mumbai goes Ganesh crazy during its biggest and most exciting festival, Ganesh Chaturthi.

Oct–Feb Put away the scuba gear as the monsoons retreat for Mumbai’s ‘cool’ season.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Most travellers arrive at Mumbai’s Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, Mumbai Central train station (BCT) or Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST; Victoria Terminus).

Fast Facts » Population: 16.4 million » Area: 444 sq km

» Area code: %022

» Languages: Marathi, Hindi, Gujarati, English

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹1000, $$ ₹1000 to ₹4000, $$$ above ₹4000

Top Tips Many international flights arrive after midnight. Save yourself some moon-lit hassle by carrying detailed landmark directions for your hotel – many airport taxi drivers don’t speak English and can dwindle precious sleep time hunting it down. Eicher City Map Mumbai (₹250) is an excellent street atlas, worth picking up if you’ll be spending some time here.

Resources » Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (www.maharashtratourism .gov.in) is the official tourism site.

A Mouthful of Mumbai Mumbai is a city shaped by flavours from all over India and the world. Throw yourself into the culinary kaleidoscope by sampling Parsi dhansak (meat with curried lentils and rice), Gujarati or Keralan thalis (‘all-you-can-eat’ meals), Mughlai kebabs, Goan vindaloo and Mangalorean seafood. And don’t forget, if you see Bombay duck on a menu, it’s actually bombil fish dried in the sun and deep-fried. Streetwise, don’t miss Mumbai’s famous beach bhelpuri, readily available at Girgaum Chowpatty, a flavour summersault of crisp-fried thin rounds of dough mixed with puﬀed rice, lentils, lemon juice, onions, herbs, chilli and tamarind chutney piled high on takeaway plates. Other street stalls oﬀering rice plates, samosas, pav bhaji (spiced vegetables and bread) and vada pav (deep-fried spiced lentil-ball sandwich) do a brisk trade around the city.

DON’T MISS For many, a visit to cosmopolitan Mumbai is all about dining, nightlife and shopping, but the city oﬀers far more than nocturnal amusement and retail therapy. Nowhere is that more evident than in the spectacular maze of Gothic, Victorian, Indo-Saracenic and art deco architecture, remnants of the British colonial era and countless years of European influence. Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus), High Court, University of Mumbai, Taj Mahal Palace hotel and the Gateway of India are just the most prominent – little architectural jewels dot the urban quagmire throughout the metropolis and stumbling upon them is one of Mumbai’s great joys.

Top Mumbai Festivals » Mumbai Festival (Jan, citywide, p734) A showcase of Mumbai music, dance and culture

» Elephanta Festival (Feb, Elephanta Island, p734) Classical music and dance on Elephanta Island

» Kala Ghoda Festival (Feb, citywide, p734) Two weeks of art performances and exhibitions » Nariyal Poornima (Aug, Colaba, p734) Commemorates the beginning of fishing season

» Ganesh Chaturthi (Aug/Sep, citywide, p734) Mumbai’s biggest event celebrates all things Ganesh

5 km 3 miles

0 0

Esselworld & Water Kingdom

Gorai Ferry

Sanjay Gandhi National Park

Borivali

Global Pagoda

M Cr anor eek i

Kandivali

Kanheri Caves

Malad

Tulsi Lake

Express

Hwy

Aarey Milk Colony

Vihar Lake

Jogeshwari

Western

M Cr ala ee d k

Goregaon

Powai Lake

Andheri Domestic Terminal Vile Parle

International Terminal

Santa Cruz

Khar

East ern

Juhu

ARABIAN SEA

To Nasik (160km)

Lokmanya Tilak (Kurla)

Khar Rd

Kurla

Bandra

Expr ess

Marve Jetty

Thane Creek

To Pune (140km)

Dharavi Mahim

Chembur See Central Suburbs Map (p742) Matunga Rd Train Station

To Karjat (81km)

Thane Creek

Wadala

Worli

Dadar

Sewri Lower Parel

See Mumbai Map (p724) Mumbai Central Train Station

Taj Mahal Palace

Gateway of India

Colaba See Colaba Map (p728)

rry

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus) Fort See Fort Area & Churchgate Map (p730)

Elephanta Island

Churchgate Train Station High Court University of Mumbai

Dr Bhau Daji Lad Butcher Mumbai City Island Museum

Mumbai Harbour To Mandwa (20km)

Uran

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1 Marvel at the magnificence of Mumbai’s colonialera architecture: Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (p726), University of Mumbai (p726) and High Court (p727) 2 Ogle the

Renaissancerevival interiors of the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum (p727)

3 Dine like a Maharaja at one of India’s best restaurants (p741) 4 Behold the

commanding tripleheaded Shiva at Elephanta Island (p756)

5 Get lost amid the clutter in Mumbai’s ancient bazaars (p748) 6 Sleep in one of

the world’s iconic hotels, the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai (p736)

7 Pay serene respects to an astonishing feat of spiritually fuelled engineering at the Global Pagoda (p731)

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

Gorai Island

Mumbai Highlights

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History

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

In 1996 the city of Bombay oﬃcially became Mumbai. The original Marathi name is derived from the goddess Mumba, who was worshipped by the early Koli residents whose fisherfolk have inhabited the seven islands that form Mumbai since the 2nd century BC. Amazingly, remnants of this culture remain huddled along the city shoreline today. A succession of Hindu dynasties held sway over the islands from the 6th century AD until the Muslim Sultans of Gujarat annexed the area in the 14th century, eventually ceding it to Portugal in 1534. The only memorable contribution the Portuguese made to the area was christening it Bom Bahai, before throwing the islands in with the dowry of Catherine of Braganza when she married England’s Charles II in 1661. The British government took possession of the islands in 1665, but leased them three years later to the East India Company for the paltry annual rent of UK£10. Then called Bombay, the area flourished as a trading port. So much so that within 20 years the presidency of the East India Company was transferred to Bombay from Surat. Bombay’s fort was completed in the 1720s,

and a century later ambitious land reclamation projects joined the islands into today’s single landmass. Although Bombay grew steadily during the 18th century, it remained isolated from its hinterland until the British defeated the Marathas (the central Indian people who controlled much of India at various times) and annexed substantial portions of western India in 1818. The fort walls were dismantled in 1864 and massive building works transformed the city in grand colonial style. When Bombay became the principal supplier of cotton to Britain during the American Civil War, the population soared and trade boomed as money flooded into the city. A major player in the Independence movement, Bombay hosted the first Indian National Congress in 1885, and the Quit India campaign was launched here in 1942 by frequent visitor Mahatma Gandhi. The city became capital of the Bombay presidency after Independence, but in 1960 Maharashtra and Gujarat were divided along linguistic lines – and Bombay became the capital of Maharashtra. The rise of the pro-Maratha regionalist movement, spearheaded by the Shiv Sena

MUMBAI IN... Two Days Start at the grandaddy of Mumbai’s colonial-era giants, the old Victoria Terminus, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST; p726) and stroll up to Crawford Market (p748) and the maze of bazaars here. Lunch at Rajdhani (p744), with a juice shake from Badshah Snacks & Drinks (p744). Spend the afternoon admiring Mumbai’s marvellous architecture at the High Court (p727) and the University of Mumbai (p726). Walk down to the Gateway of India (p723) and Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai (p723). After sunset, eat streetside at Bademiya (p741). Swap tall tales with fellow travellers at Leopold’s Café (p746). The next day, visit the ornate Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum (p727), then head to Kemp’s Corner for lunch at Café Moshe (p743) and some shopping. Make your way down to Mani Bhavan (p727), the museum dedicated to Gandhi, and finish the day wandering the tiny lanes of Kotachiwadi (p739) followed by a beach sunset and a plate of bhelpuri at Girguam Chowpatty (p727). A blowout dinner at Khyber (p741) won’t let you forget Mumbai soon.

Four Days Head out to the Global Pagoda (p731) and return in the afternoon to visit the museums and galleries of Kala Ghoda (p723). In the evening, head to Bandra for a candle-lit dinner at Sheesha (p745), followed by some seriously hip bar action with a view at Aer (p746) in Worli. Another day could be spent visiting the Dhobi Ghat (p729) and the nearby Mahalaxmi Temple (p730) and Haji Ali’s Mosque (p729). Lunch at Olive Bar & Kitchen (p747) at Mahalaxmi Racecourse and then rest up for a night of avant-garde clubbing at Bluefrog (p747) in Worli.

1 Sights Mumbai, the capital of Maharashtra, is an island connected by bridges to the mainland. The city’s (oﬀ-limits) naval docks dominate the island’s eastern seaboard. The city’s commercial and cultural centre is at the southern, claw-shaped end of the island known as South Mumbai. The southernmost peninsula is Colaba, traditionally the travellers’ nerve centre, with most of the major attractions, and directly north of Colaba is the busy commercial area known as Fort, where the old British fort once stood. It’s bordered on the west by a series of interconnected, fenced grassy areas known as maidans (pronounced may-dahns). Though just as essential a part of the city as South Mumbai, the area north of here is collectively known as ‘the suburbs’. The airport and many of Mumbai’s best restaurants, shopping and nightspots are here, particularly in the upmarket suburbs of Bandra and Juhu.

The opening of the cable-stayed BandraWorli Sea Link in 2009 cut travel time between the two areas from one hour to seven minutes, making these upmarket suburbs easily accessible to travellers.

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COLABA

For mapped locations of all the following sights, see Map p728. Sprawling down the city’s southernmost peninsula, Colaba is a bustling district packed with street stalls, markets, bars and budget to midrange lodgings. Colaba Causeway (Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg) dissects the promontory and Colaba’s jumble of side streets and gently crumbling mansions. Sassoon Dock (oﬀ Map p728) is a scene of intense and pungent activity at dawn (around 5am) when colourfully clad Koli fisherfolk sort the catch unloaded from fishing boats at the quay. The fish drying in the sun are bombil, the fish used in the dish Bombay duck. Photography at the dock is forbidden.

oTaj Mahal Palace, Mumbai

LANDMARK

Gateway of India

MONUMENT

This iconic hotel (p736) is a fairy-tale blend of Islamic and Renaissance styles jostling for prime position among Mumbai’s famous landmarks. Facing the harbour, it was built in 1903 by the Parsi industrialist JN Tata, supposedly after he was refused entry to one of the European hotels on account of being ‘a native’. This bold basalt arch of colonial triumph faces out to Mumbai Harbour from the tip of Apollo Bunder. Derived from the Islamic styles of 16th-century Gujarat, it was built to commemorate the 1911 royal visit of King George V. It was completed in 1924. Ironically, the gateway’s British architects used it just 24 years later to parade oﬀ their last British regiment as India marched towards Independence. These days, the gateway is a favourite gathering spot for locals and a top spot for people-watching. Giant-balloon sellers, photographers, beggars and touts rub shoulders with Indian and foreign tourists, creating all the hubbub of a bazaar. Boats depart from the gateway’s wharfs for Elephanta Island and Mandwa. KALA GHODA

‘Black Horse’, the area between Colaba and Fort, contains most of Mumbai’s main galleries and museums alongside a wealth of

S I G H T S (BOMBAY ) S I G H T S MUMBAI

(Hindu Party; literally ‘Shivaji’s Army’), shattered the city’s multicultural mould by actively discriminating against Muslims and non-Maharashtrians. The Shiv Sena won power in the city’s municipal elections in 1985. Communalist tensions increased and the city’s cosmopolitan self-image took a battering when nearly 800 people died in riots following the destruction of the Babri Masjid in Ayodhya in December 1992. The riots were followed by a dozen bombings on 12 March 1993, which killed more than 300 people and damaged the Bombay Stock Exchange and Air India Building. The July 2006 train bombings, which killed more than 200 people, and November 2008’s coordinated attacks on 10 of the city’s landmarks, which lasted three days and killed 173 people, are reminders that tensions are never far from the surface. India’s ‘26/11’ – as the Mumbai attacks have come to be known – was a wake-up call for the city. Security is now intense at many of the city’s prominent landmarks, well-known hotels and important financial and government buildings. Entire streets have been sealed oﬀ in some cases, providing impromptu cricket pitches for the city’s numerous street youth. But Mumbai soldiers on, content to up the ante of inconvenience to maintain the Mumbaikar spirit, a defiant Marathi manner that steadies the city as India’s commercial hub and a global financial powerhouse.

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biggest and best museum, this domed behemoth is an intriguing hodgepodge of Islamic, Hindu and British architecture displaying a mix of dusty exhibits from all over India. Opened in 1923 to commemorate King George V’s first visit to India (back in 1905, while he was still Prince of Wales), its flamboyant Indo-Saracenic style was designed by George Wittet – who also did the Gateway of India. The museum has undergone a ₹12 million upkeep renovation, which introduced a fascinating new miniature-painting gallery and a new gallery dedicated to Vishnu. Elsewhere, the vast collection includes impressive Hindu and Buddhist sculpture, terracotta figurines from the Indus Valley, porcelain and some particularly vicious weaponry.

teresting shows by local artists. Most works are for sale. Rows of hopeful artists often display their work on the pavement outside.

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Lined up in a row and vying for your attention with aristocratic pomp, many of Mumbai’s majestic Victorian buildings pose on the edge of Oval Maidan. This land, and the Cross and Azad Maidans immediately to the north, was on the oceanfront in those days, and this series of grandiose structures faced west directly out to the Arabian Sea.

S I G H T S (BOMBAY ) S I G H T S MUMBAI

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æ Top Sights Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum................................................ F1 Haji Ali's Mosque ....................................B1 Kotachiwadi ........................................... D5 Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat........................... E1 æ Sights 1 Mahalaxmi Temple ................................ B2 2 Mani Bhavan .......................................... C4 3 St Teresa's Church................................ D5 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 4 Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan........................ C4 5 BollyDancing Mumbai ........................... A5 6 H2O Water Sports Complex................. C5 7 Khaivalyadham Ishwardas Yogic Health Centre...................................... D5 8 Yoga Sutra ............................................. B3 ÿ Sleeping 9 Hotel Kemps Corner.............................. B3 ú Eating 10 Badshah Snacks & Drinks......................F6 11 Cafe Noorani .......................................... C2 12 Cream Centre ........................................ C5 Moshe's Café ................................ (see 21) 13 New Kulfi Centre.................................... C5 Olive Bar & Kitchen ...................... (see 15) 14 Rajdhani ..................................................E6 15 Tote on the Turf......................................D1

For mapped locations of the following sights see Map p730.

oChhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus)

HISTORICAL BUILDING

Imposing, exuberant and overflowing with people, this is the city’s most extravagant Gothic building, the beating heart of its railway network, and an aphorism for colonial India. As historian Christopher London put it, ‘the Victoria Terminus is to the British Raj what the Taj Mahal is to the Mughal empire’. It’s a meringue of Victorian, Hindu and Islamic styles whipped into an imposing Dalíesque structure of buttresses, domes, turrets, spires and stained-glass windows. Designed by Frederick Stevens, it was completed in 1887, 34 years after the first train in India left this site. Today it’s the busiest train station in Asia. Oﬃcially renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST) in 1998,

ü Drinking 16 First Floor................................................ F6 17 Haji Ali Juice Centre............................... C1 þ Shopping 18 Bhuleshwar Market................................E5 Biba ................................................(see 21) 19 Chor Bazaar............................................ E4 20 Crawford Market .................................... F6 21 Crossword ..............................................B3 22 Mangaldas Market ................................. E6 23 Mélange ..................................................B3 24 Mini Market/Bollywood Bazaar ..................................................E4 25 Shrujan....................................................B2 26 Zaveri Bazaar .........................................E6 Information 27 Apne Aap Women Worldwide ............... E3 28 Breach Candy Hospital..........................B2 29 US Consulate..........................................B3 Transport 30 Allibhai Premji Tyrewalla .......................D4 31 Mumbai Central Bus Terminal...............................................D3 National CTC .................................(see 31) 32 Private Bus Agents................................. F6 33 Private Long-Distance Bus Stand & Ticket Agents ........................D3

it’s still better known locally as VT. It was added to the Unesco World Heritage list in 2004. University of Mumbai (Bombay HISTORICAL BUILDING University)

Looking like a 15th-century French-Gothic masterpiece plopped incongruously among Mumbai’s palm trees, this university on Bhaurao Patil Marg was designed by Gilbert Scott of London’s St Pancras Station fame. There is an exquisite University Library and Convocation Hall, as well as an 80m-high Rajabai Clock Tower, decorated with detailed carvings, but since the 2008 terror attacks on Mumbai the public is no longer allowed inside the grounds. The architecture is best admired by strolling along Bhaurao Patil Marg as trees obscure much of the splendour when viewed from the Oval Maidan.

High Court HISTORICAL BUILDING (Eldon Rd) A hive of daily activity, packed with

St Thomas’ Cathedral CHURCH (Veer Nariman Rd; h6.30am-6pm) Recently re-

stored to its former glory, this charming cathedral is the oldest English building standing in Mumbai (construction began in 1672, though it remained unfinished until 1718). The cathedral is an interracial marriage of Byzantine and colonial-era architecture, and its airy, whitewashed interior is full of exhibitionist colonial memorials. GIRGUAM CHOWPATTY AREA

For mapped locations of the following sights see Map p724. Marine Drive & Girguam Chowpatty

BEACH

Built on land reclaimed from Back Bay in 1920, Marine Drive (Netaji Subhashchandra Bose Rd) arcs along the shore of the Arabian Sea from Nariman Point past Girguam Chowpatty (where it’s known as Chowpatty Seaface) and continues to the foot of Malabar Hill. Lined with flaking art deco apartments, it’s one of Mumbai’s most popular

EXILE ON MAIN STREET Street numbers on buildings are basically nonexistent in Mumbai and street signs sometimes come in English, sometimes in Hindi, sometimes both, a lot of the time not at all. But signs outside legitimate businesses often include the street address, so look for those to orient yourself when street signs fail you.

FMani Bhavan

MUSEUM

(%23805864; www.gandhi-manibhavan.org; 19 Laburnum Rd; h9.30am-6pm) As poignant as

it is tiny, this museum is in the building where Mahatma Gandhi stayed during visits to Bombay from 1917 to 1934. The museum showcases the room where the leader formulated his philosophy of satyagraha (nonviolent protest) and launched the 1932 Civil Disobedience campaign that led to the end of British rule. Exhibitions include a photographic record of his life, along with dioramas and original documents, such as letters he wrote to Adolf Hitler and Franklin D Roosevelt. Nearby, August Kranti Maidan is where the campaign to persuade the British to ‘Quit India’ was launched in 1942. MALABAR HILL

Mumbai’s most exclusive neighbourhood of sky-scratchers and private palaces, Malabar Hill (Map p724) is at the northern promontory of Back Bay and signifies the top rung for the city’s social and economic climbers. Surprisingly, one of Mumbai’s most sacred and tranquil oases lies concealed among apartment blocks at its southern tip. Banganga Tank (oﬀ Map p724) is a precinct of serene temples, bathing pilgrims, meandering, traffic-free streets and picturesque old dharamsalas (pilgrims’ rest houses). The wooden pole in the centre of the tank is the centre of the earth: according to legend, Lord Ram created the tank by piercing the earth with his arrow. For some of the best views of Girgaum Chowpatty and the graceful arc of Marine Drive, visit the small Kamala Nehru Park (Map p724). BYCULLA

oDr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai

MUSEUM City Museum (Map p724; Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Rd; Indian/ foreigner ₹10/100; h10am-5.30pm Thu-Tue)

727

S I G H T S (BOMBAY ) S I G H T S MUMBAI

judges, barristers and other cogs in the Indian justice system, the High Court is an elegant 1848 neo-Gothic building. The design was inspired by a German castle and was obviously intended to dispel any doubts about the authority of the justice dispensed inside, though local stone carvers presumably saw things diﬀerently: they carved a one-eyed monkey fiddling with the scales of justice on one pillar. You are permitted (and it is highly recommended) to walk around inside the building and check out the pandemonium and pageantry of public cases that are in progress – just walk right in! You’ll have to surrender your camera to the guards, then make your way through the maze-like building to the original building’s courtyard opposite Court 6.

promenades and sunset-watching spots. Its twinkling night-time lights earned it the nickname ‘the Queen’s Necklace’. Girguam Chowpatty (often referred to as ‘Chowpatty Beach’ in English, though this means ‘Beach Beach’ and often confuses locals) remains a favourite evening spot for courting couples, families, political rallies and anyone out to enjoy what passes for fresh air. Eating an evening time bhelpuri at the throng of stalls found here is an essential part of the Mumbai experience. Forget about taking a dip: the water is toxic.

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based on historical research. Also restored were the museum’s 3500-plus objects centering on Mumbai’s history – clay models of village life, photography and maps, archaeological finds, costumes, a library of books and manuscripts, industrial and agricultural exhibits, and silver, copper, Bidriware, laquerware, weaponry and exquisite pottery, all set against the museum’s very distracting, very stunning decor. Skip the zoo. MAHALAXMI TO WORLI

For mapped locations of the following sights see Map p724.

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Colaba æ Top Sights Gateway of India .................................... D3 Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai.................... D3

20 Barista.....................................................B4 21 Busaba ....................................................C3 22 Café Mondegar.......................................C2 23 Leopold's Cafe........................................C2

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 2 Reality Tours & Travel........................... C2 ÿ Sleeping 3 Ascot Hotel ............................................ B4 4 Bentley's Hotel....................................... B4 5 Hotel Moti............................................... C3 6 Hotel Suba Palace ................................. C2 India Guest House .......................... (see 9) 7 Regent Hotel .......................................... C3 8 Salvation Army Red Shield Guest House .................................................. C3 9 Sea Shore Hotel..................................... C4 10 Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai.................... D3 11 YWCA.......................................................B1 ú Eating 12 Bademiya ............................................... C2 Cafe Moshe ................................... (see 15) 13 Colaba Market ....................................... A5 14 Indigo...................................................... C3 15 Indigo Delicatessen ............................... D2 16 New Laxmi Villas.................................... C2 Saharkari Bhandar Supermarket (see 35) 17 Theobroma ............................................ B4 18 Wich Latte .............................................. B4 û ü Drinking 19 Barista .....................................................C1

oHaji Ali’s Mosque

MOSQUE

Floating like a sacred mirage oﬀ the coast, this mosque, one of Mumbai’s most striking symbols, is an exquisite Indo-Islamic shrine. Built in the 19th century on the site of a 15thcentury structure, it contains the tomb of the Muslim saint Haji – legend has it that Haji Ali died while on a pilgrimage to Mecca and his casket miraculously floated back to this spot. A long causeway reaches into the Arabian Sea, providing access to the mosque. Thousands of pilgrims, especially on Thursdays and Fridays, cross it to make their visit, many donating to the beggars who line the way; but at high tide, water covers the causeway and the mosque becomes an island. Once inside, pilgrims fervently kiss the dressings of the tomb.

ý Entertainment 24 Cooperage Football Ground..................A2 25 Polly Esther's..........................................C2 26 Regal ....................................................... C1 27 Voodoo Pub ............................................B4 þ Shopping 28 Antique & Curio Shops ..........................C2 29 Bombay Electric.....................................C3 30 Central Cottage Industries Emporium ............................................ D1 31 Good Earth..............................................C3 32 Phillips..................................................... C1 Information 33 Magnum International Travel & Tours ....................................................C3 34 MTDC Booth ...........................................D2 35 Sahakari Bhandar Chemist ................... C1 Thomas Cook ................................(see 17) Transport 36 BEST Bus Depot.....................................B3 37 BEST Bus Stand ..................................... C1 38 BEST Bus Stand ..................................... C1 39 Jet Airways ............................................. B1 40 Launches to Elephanta Island & Mandwa ............................................D3 Maldar Catamarans Ticket Office .......................................... (see 34) PNP Ticket Office ......................... (see 34)

Erosion has taken its toll on the concrete structure, and at press time, renovations had been ongoing since 2008. The structural upgrade includes beautiful white Rajasthani marble – the same used for the Taj Mahal. The dargah will remain open, but access may be limited.

FMahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat

LANDMARK

If you’ve had washing done in Mumbai, chances are your clothes have already visited this 140-year-old dhobi ghat (place where clothes are washed). The whole hamlet is Mumbai’s oldest and biggest human-powered washing machine: every day hundreds of people beat the dirt out of thousands of kilograms of soiled Mumbai clothes and linen in 1026

S I G H T S (BOMBAY ) S I G H T S MUMBAI

æ Sights 1 National Gallery of Modern Art..............C1

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HINDU TEMPLE

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from polluted Gorai Creek and the lush but noisy grounds of the Esselworld and Water Kingdom amusement parks, the breathtaking structure is a 96m-high stupa modelled after Burma’s Shwedagon Pagoda. The dome, which is designed to hold 8000 meditators and houses relics of Buddha, was built entirely without supports using an ancient technique of interlocking stones. It just snatched the record away from Bijapur’s Golgumbaz for being the world’s largest unsupported dome. The pagoda also has a museum dedicated to the life of the Buddha and his teaching – it’s aﬃliated with teacher SN Goenka, and an onsite meditation centre oﬀers 10-day meditation courses. To get here, take the train from Churchgate to Borivali, then an autorickshaw (₹28) to the ferry landing, where the Esselworld ferries (return ₹35) come and go every 30 minutes. The last ferry back is 5.25pm.

Activities WILDLIFE-WATCHING

Mumbai has surprisingly good birdwatching opportunities. Sanjay Gandhi National Park is popular for woodland birds, while the marshlands of industrial Sewri (pronounced shev-ree) swarm with birds in winter. Contact the Bombay Natural History Society

(BNHS; Map p730; %22821811; www.bnhs.org; Hornbill House, Dr Salim Ali Chowk, Shaheed Bhagat Singh Rd, Kala Ghoda) or Sunjoy Monga at Yuhina Eco-Media (%9323995955) for infor-

mation on upcoming trips.

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LANDMARK

(www.globalpagoda.org; Near Esselworld, Gorai Creek; h9am-6pm) Rising up like a mirage

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oGlobal Pagoda

Nehru Centre CULTURAL COMPLEX (off Map p724; %24964676; www.nehru-centre. org; Dr Annie Besant Rd, Worli) This cultural

complex includes a planetarium, theatre, gallery and an interesting history exhibition Discovery of India (admission free;

Runs one-day rafting trips on the Ulhas River near Karjat, 88km southeast of Mumbai, from July to early September (₹1600 per person). After a good rain, rapids can get up to Grade III+, though usually the rafting is much calmer, with lots of twists and zigzags. OA also organises camping and canoeing trips.

C Courses

Kaivalyadhama Ishwardas YOGA Yogic Health Centre (Map p724; %22818417; www.kdhammumbai.com; 43 Marine Dr, Girgaum Chowpatty; h6.30-10am

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MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

æ Top Sights Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (Prince of Wales Museum)...................................E5 Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus) ............................. F1 High Court.............................................. D4 University of Mumbai ............................ D5 æ Sights 1 Jehangir Art Gallery................................E5 2 Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue..............E5 3 Rajabai Clock Tower.............................. D5 4 St Thomas' Cathedral ............................E4 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 5 Bombay Natural History Society ..........E6 MTDC Reservation Office ............(see 49) ÿ Sleeping 6 Hotel City Palace ....................................F2 7 Hotel Lawrence.......................................E5 8 Hotel Oasis..............................................F2 9 InterContinental .................................... B3 10 Residency Hotel......................................E3 11 Sea Green Hotel..................................... B4 Sea Green South Hotel ................. (see 11) 12 Trident .................................................... A5

& 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat) Several yoga classes are

held daily at the Kaivalyadhama Ishwardas Yogic Health Centre. Fees include a ₹600 (students/seniors ₹500/400) monthly membership fee and a ₹500 admission fee.

Yoga Institute YOGA (Map p742; %26122185; www.theyogainstitute.org; Shri Yogendra Marg, Prabhat Colony, Santa Cruz East; per 1st/2nd month ₹400/300) The Yoga Insti-

tute, near Santa Cruz station, has daily classes as well as weekend and weeklong programs.

Iyengar Yogashraya YOGA (oﬀ Map p724; %24948416; www.bksiyengar.com; Elmac House, 126 Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel; per class ₹130) Has classes in Iyengar yoga,

including some for the developmentally disabled. There is a ₹113 admission fee.

BollyDancing Mumbai DANCING (Map p724; %9821130788; www.BollyDancing.co.in; Napean Sea Rd, opp Walsingham School, Malabar Hill) The family-run institute runs choreo-

graphed Bollywood dance classes as well as BollySalsa, a salsa-fusion with a fitness edge. Hour-long beginner classes (₹450 per hour)

13 West End Hotel....................................... C1

ú Eating 210°C..............................................(see 18) 14 Five Spice................................................ F3 15 K Rustom ................................................C3 16 Khyber..................................................... E5 Koh .................................................. (see 9) 17 Mahesh Lunch Home.............................E3 Moshe's Café ................................ (see 34) Relish..............................................(see 18) 18 Samrat ....................................................C4 19 Suryodaya...............................................C3 20 Trishna .................................................... E5 21 Wich Latte............................................... E5 û ü Drinking 22 Café Universal ........................................ F3 Cha Bar ......................................... (see 38) Dome............................................... (see 9) 23 Kala Ghoda cafe ..................................... E5 24 Mocha Bar...............................................C3 Samovar Café.................................. (see 1) ý Entertainment 25 Eros .........................................................D4 26 National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA).....................A6

are held every Thursday (1.30pm) and Friday (noon); or by special arrangement. Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan LANGUAGE (Map p724; %23871860; cnr KM Munshi Marg & Ramabai Rd, Girgaum; per hr ₹500) Professor

Shukla is based at Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan and oﬀers private Hindi, Marathi, Gujarati and Sanskrit classes. Contact this worldly octogenarian directly to arrange a syllabus and class schedule to suit your needs. Khatwara Institute HANDICRAFTS, COOKING (Shri Khatwari Darbar; Map p742; %26042670, cnr Linking Rd & Shri Khatwari Darber Marg, Khar West) The Khatwara Institute oﬀers dozens

of courses, lasting from three days to one month, for women only (sorry guys!) in Arabic mehndi (decorative henna tattoos), ‘basic’ mehndi, block printing, embroidery, sewing and cooking, among other things. Call Vanita for details.

T Tours Fiona Fernandez’s Ten Heritage Walks of Mumbai (₹395) contains excellent walking

733 27 NCPA Box Office.................................... A6

47 German Consulate .................................B6

28 Sterling ....................................................E2

48 Government of India Tourist

29 Valhalla ................................................... D4 30 Wankhede Stadium............................... C2 49

Information 40 Akbar Travels..........................................F2 41 Australian Consulate............................. B6 42 Bombay Hospital ....................................D1 43 Canadian Consulate ...............................E2 44 Concern India Foundation .....................E5 45 Dutch Consulate.....................................E2 46 Foreigners' Regional Registration Office (FRRO)................. E1

tours in the city, with fascinating historical background. The Government of India tourist oﬃce (p751) can arrange multilingual guides (per half-/full day ₹600/750). Guides using a foreign language other than English will charge at least ₹225 extra.

SReality Tours & Travel

DHARAVI TOUR

(Map p728; %9820822253; www.realitytoursandtrav el.com; 1/26 Akbar House, Nawroji F Rd, Colaba; short/ long tours ₹500/1000) Runs socially respon-

sible tours of Dharavi (p736). Photography is strictly forbidden and funds from the tour plus 80% of post-tax profits go to the agency’s own NGO, Reality Gives (www.realitygives.org), which runs a kindergarten and community centre in Dharavi. Enter the oﬃce through SSS Corner store on Nawroji F Rd. Bombay Heritage Walks WALKING (%23690992; www.bombayheritagewalks.com)

Run by two enthusiastic architects, has the best city tours. Private two-hour guided tours are ₹1500 for up to three people, ₹500 for each additional person.

50 51 52 53 54

Transport 55 Air India ...................................................B5 56 Bus Stand ............................................... F2 57 Central Railways Reservation Centre ...................................................F1 58 El Al Airlines ............................................B4 59 Emirates Airlines ....................................B6 Indian Airlines............................... (see 55) 60 Kingfisher................................................B5 61 Chandni Travels/Private Buses to Goa....................................................E1 62 Swiss .......................................................D2 63 Thai Airways ...........................................C6 Western Railways Reservation Centre ........................................ (see 48)

MTDC CITY TOUR (Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation; Map p728; %22841877; Apollo Bunder; 1hr tour ₹120; h8.30am-4pm Tue-Sun & 5.30-8pm Sat & Sun) Runs open-deck bus tours of illumi-

nated heritage buildings on weekends at 7pm and 8.15pm. They depart from and can be booked at the booth near Apollo Bunder.

Cruises CRUISE (%22026364; h9am-7pm) A cruise on Mum-

bai Harbour is a good way to escape the city and a chance to see the Gateway of India as it was intended. Ferry rides (₹60, 30 minutes) depart from the Gateway of India.

Traansway International CITY TOUR (%9920488712; traanswaytours@gmail.com; per 1-/2-/3-person tour ₹2500/3500/4500) Runs

five-hour day or night tours of South Mumbai’s sights. Prices include pick-up and drop-off.

H2O Water Sports Complex CRUISE (Map p724; %23677546; www.drishtigroup.com; Marine Dr, Mafatlal Beach; h10am-10pm Oct-May)

TO U R S (BOMBAY ) TO U R S MUMBAI

þ Shopping 31 Bombay Store.........................................E3 32 Chimanlals ..............................................E2 33 Cotton Cottage .......................................E5 34 Fabindia...................................................E5 35 Fashion Street Market .......................... D3 36 Kala Niketan............................................C1 37 Khadi & Village Industries Emporium ............................................E3 38 Oxford Bookstore .................................. C5 39 Rhythm House ........................................E5 Standard Supply Co. ...................... (see 6)

Office ....................................................D3 Israel Consulate ........................... (see 53) MTDC Reservation Office......................B5 Royal Chemists ...................................... C1 Singaporean Consulate .........................B6 Sri Lankan Consulate.............................E4 Swiss Consulate ............................(see 51) Thai Consulate .......................................B6 Thomas Cook ......................................... E3

734

BOLLYWOOD DREAMS

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

Mumbai is the glittering epicentre of India’s gargantuan Hindi-language film industry. From silent beginnings with a cast of all-male actors (some in drag) in the 1913 epic Raja Harishchandra and the first talkie, Lama Ara (1931), it now churns out more than 1000 films a year – more than Hollywood. Not surprising considering it has a captive audience of one-sixth of the world’s population, as well as a sizable Non-Resident Indian (NRI) following. Every part of India has its regional film industry, but Bollywood continues to entrance the nation with its escapist formula in which all-singing, all-dancing lovers fight and conquer the forces keeping them apart. These days, Hollywood-inspired thrillers and action extravaganzas vie for moviegoers’ attention alongside the more family-oriented saccharine formulas. Bollywood stars can attain near godlike status in India and star-spotting is a favourite pastime in Mumbai’s posher establishments.

Extra, Extra! Studios sometimes want Westerners as extras to add a whiﬀ of international flair (or provocative dress, which locals often won’t wear) to a film. It’s become so common, in fact, that 100,000 junior actors nearly went on strike in 2008 to protest, among other things, losing jobs to foreigners, who work for less. If you’re still game, just hang around Colaba where studio scouts, recruiting for the following day’s shooting, will find you. A day’s work pays ₹500. You’ll get lunch, and other snacks if you start early or finish late. Transport is usually by 2nd-class train unless there are enough tourists to justify private transport. The day can be long and hot with loads of standing around the set; not everyone has a positive experience. Complaints range from lack of food and water to dangerous situations and intimidation when extras don’t ‘comply’ with the director’s orders. Others describe the behind-the-scenes peek as a fascinating experience. Before agreeing to anything, always ask for the scout’s identification and go with your gut.

Arranges 45-minute day (₹170 per person, minimum four people) and night (₹280, 7pm to 11pm) cruises. Taj Yacht CRUISE (up to 10 people per 2hr ₹48,000) For the luxury

version, hire this yacht; contact the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai (p736) for details.

z Festivals & Events Mumbai Festival

MUSIC, DANCE

Based at several stages around the city, it showcases the food, dance and culture of Mumbai in January. Banganga Festival (www.maharashtratourism.gov.in)

MUSIC

A two-day classical-music festival held in January at the Banganga Tank.

Kala Ghoda Festival ARTS, CULTURE (www.kalaghodaassociation.com) Getting big-

ger and more sophisticated each year, this two-week-long oﬀering in February has a packed program of arts performances and exhibitions.

eElephanta Festival MUSIC (www.maharashtratourism.gov.in) Classical mu-

sic and dance on Elephanta Island in February. Nariyal Poornima HINDU (www.rakhifestival.com) Festivals in the tourist

hub of Colaba kick oﬀ with this celebration in August at the start of the fishing season after the monsoon. Ganesh Chaturthi

HINDU

Mumbai’s biggest annual festival – a 10- to 11day event in August or September in celebration of the elephant-headed deity Ganesh – sweeps up the entire city. On the first, third, fifth, seventh and 10th days of the festival families and communities take their Ganesh statues to the seashore and auspiciously drown them: the 10th day, which sees millions descending on Girgaum Chowpatty to submerge the largest statues, is pure mayhem. Colaba Festival

ARTS

A small October arts festival in Colaba that sometimes overlaps with Diwali festivities.

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Walking Tour

Mumbai Its distinctive mix of colonial-era and art deco architecture is Mumbai’s defining feature. Starting from the 1 Gateway of India walk up Chhatrapati Shivaji Marg past the members-only colonial relic 2 Royal Bombay Yacht Club on one side and the art deco residential-commercial complex 3 Dhunraj Mahal on the other, towards 4 Regal Circle. The best view of the surrounding buildings – including the old 5 Sailors Home, which dates from 1876 and is now the Maharashtra Police Headquarters, the art deco 6 Regal cinema and the old 7 Majestic Hotel, now the Sahakari Bhandar cooperative store – is from the circle’s centre. Continue up MG Rd, past the beautifully restored facade of the 8 National Gallery of Modern Art. Opposite is the 9 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya. Back across the road is the ‘Romanesque Transitional’ a Elphinstone College and the b David Sassoon Library & Reading Room, where members escape the afternoon heat lazing on planters’ chairs on the upper balcony.

Continue north to admire the vertical art deco stylings of the c New India Assurance Company Building. On a traﬃc island ahead lies the pretty d Flora Fountain, erected in 1869 in honour of Sir Bartle Frere, the Bombay governor responsible for dismantling the fort. Turn east down Veer Nariman Rd, walking towards e St Thomas’ Cathedral. Ahead lies the stately f Horniman Circle, an arcaded ring of buildings laid out in the 1860s around a circular and beautifully kept botanical garden. The circle is overlooked from the east by the neoclassical g Town Hall. Backtrack to Flora Fountain, continuing west and turning south on to Bhaurao Patil Marg to see the august h High Court in full glory and the ornately decorated i University of Mumbai. The university’s 80m-high j Rajabai Clock Tower is best observed from within the k Oval Maidan. Turn around to compare the colonial edifices with the row of art deco beauties lining Maharshi Karve (MK) Rd, culminating in the wedding cake tower of the l Eros Cinema.

F E S T I VA L(BOMBAY S & E V E N)TFSE S T I VA L S & E V E N T S MUMBAI

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735

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736

DHARAVI SLUM

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

Mumbaikars had mixed feelings about the stereotypes in 2008’s runaway hit, Slumdog Millionaire (released in Hindi as Slumdog Crorepati). But slums are very much a part of – some would say the foundation of – Mumbai city life. An astonishing 55% of Mumbai’s population lives in shantytowns and slums, and the largest slum in Mumbai (and Asia, for that matter) is Dharavi. Originally inhabited by fisherfolk when the area was still creeks, swamps and islands, it became attractive to migrant workers, from South Mumbai and beyond, when the swamp began to fill in as a result of natural and artificial causes. It now incorporates 1.75 sq km sandwiched between Mumbai’s two major railway lines and is home to more than one million people. While it may look a bit shambolic from the outside, the maze of dusty alleys and sewer-lined streets of this city within a city are actually a collection of abutting settlements. Some parts of Dharavi have mixed populations, but in others inhabitants from diﬀerent parts of India, and with diﬀerent trades, have set up homes and tiny factories. Potters from Saurashtra live in one area, Muslim tanners in another; embroidery workers from Uttar Pradesh work alongside metalsmiths; while other workers recycle plastics as women dry pappadams in the searing sun. Some of these thriving industries, some 10,000 in all, export their wares, and the annual turnover of business from Dharavi is thought to top a remarkable US$665 million. Up close, life in the slums is strikingly normal. Residents pay rent, most houses have kitchens and electricity, and building materials range from flimsy corrugated-iron shacks to permanent multistorey concrete structures. Many families have been here for generations, and some of the younger Dharavi residents even work in white-collar jobs. They often choose to stay, though, in the neighbourhood they grew up in. Slum tourism is a polarising subject, so you’ll have to decide your feelings for yourself. If you opt to visit, Reality Tours & Travel does a fascinating tour, and pours a percentage of profits back into Dharavi, setting up community centres and schools. Some tourists opt to visit on their own, which is OK as well – just don’t take photos. Take the train from Churchgate station to Mahim (₹12), exit on the west side and cross the bridge into Dharavi.

Prithvi Theatre Festival THEATRE (www.prithvitheatre.org) A showcase of what’s

going on in contemporary Indian theatre, held in November; also includes performances by international troupes and artists.

4 Sleeping You’ll need to recalibrate your budget here: Mumbai has the most expensive accommodation in India. Book ahead at Christmas and in Diwali season. Colaba is compact, has the liveliest foreigner scene and many of the budget and midrange options. Fort is more spread out and convenient to sights and the main train stations (CST and Churchgate). Most of the top-end places are dotted around the suburbs; hotels in Juhu are convenient for the trendy Bandra district. To stay with a local family, contact the Government of India tourist oﬃce for a list of homes participating in Mumbai’s payingguest scheme (r with full board; ₹1500-2500; a).

A 4% (more common at budget end) or 10% tax should be added to all prices listed here unless otherwise stated. COLABA

For mapped locations of the following venues see Map p728.

oTaj Mahal Palace,

HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ Mumbai (Map p728; %66653366; www.tajhotels.com; Apollo Bunder, Colaba; s/d tower from ₹21,500/23,000, palace from ₹25,250/26,750; aiWs) The ho-

tel formerly known as the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower debuted its new name and new spaces on Indian Independence Day 2010, the result of a meticulous restoration following the November 2008 terrorist attacks that nearly brought this 1903 Mumbai landmark to its knees. But with its sweeping arches, staircases and domes, it has risen again, defiantly opulent. Some 285 rooms have been lavishly restored in gorgeous fuchsia, saﬀron and celadon colour schemes, and

security is Fort Knox level – guests can only access their own floor via elevator keys. All of the hotel bars – including the legendary Harbour Bar, Mumbai’s first licensed bar – and restaurants have been redesigned, rounding out a triumphant return for one of Mumbai’s most enduring symbols.

presents a frustrating dilemma: It’s immaculate and surprisingly good, considering it’s a cool ₹1000 cheaper than most in its class. Rates include tax, breakfast, dinner, ‘bed tea’, free wi-fi …and a newspaper, so it’s the best value (and location, for that matter) within miles. But there’s a trade-oﬀ here with a series of unorthodox rules, including the very stubborn policy of not allowing early checkin – even if your room is ready – unless you pay extra. Hotel Moti GUESTHOUSE $$ (%22025714; hotelmotiinternational@yahoo.co.in; 10 Best Marg; s/d/tr with AC incl tax from ₹1800/ 2000/3200; ai) This traveller’s haven oc-

cupies the ground floor of a gracefully crumbling, beautiful colonial-era building. Simple rooms have whispers of charm and some nice surprises, like ornate stucco ceilings and Western showers. Some are huge and all have fridges filled with soft drinks and bottled water, which is charged at cost – one of the many signs of the pragmatic and friendly management.

Sea Shore Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ (%22874237; 4th fl, Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder Rd; s/d without bathroom ₹500/700) In a build-

ing housing several budget guesthouses, the Sea Shore will go above and beyond your expectations for the price, mainly due to a

India Guest House (%22833769; s/d without bathroom ₹350/450) with the same new

bathrooms but no further renovations at research time. Hotel Suba Palace HOTEL $$$ (%22020636; www.hotelsubapalace.com; Battery St; s/d with AC incl breakfast ₹4400/5170; aiW)

Teetering precariously on the edge of boutique hotel, the Suba Palace oozes soothing neutral tones, from the tiny taupe shower tiles in the contemporary bathrooms to the creamy crown moulding and beige quilted headboards in the tastefully remodelled rooms. Comfy, quiet and central.

Salvation Army Red Shield GUESTHOUSE $ Guest House (%22841824; red_shield@vsnl.net; 30 Mereweather Rd; dm incl breakfast ₹225, d/tr/q with full board ₹725/991/1368, d with AC & full board ₹1199; ai)

Salvy’s is a Mumbai institution popular with travellers counting every rupee. The large, ascetic dorms are clean, though ratty mattresses encourage bed bugs. All rooms have their own bathroom; some are not attached but you get a private key. Dorm beds cannot be reserved in advance so come just after the 9am kickout to ensure a spot.

Ascot Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%66385566; www.ascothotel.com; 38 Garden Rd; d with AC incl breakfast from ₹6000; aiW)

Marble-meets-modern at this classy hotel with hardwood hallways leading to boutiquey rooms with big headboards, bathtubs, desks, new LCD TVs, and lots of natural light and tree views.

MUMBAI FOR CHILDREN Rina Mehta’s www.mustformums.com has the Mumbai Mums’ Guide, with info on crèches, health care and even kids’ salsa classes in the city. Time Out Mumbai (₹50) often lists fun things to do with kids. Little tykes with energy to burn will love the Gorai Island amusement parks, Esselworld (www.esselworld.in; adult/child ₹510/380; h11am-7pm) and Water Kingdom (www. waterkingdom.in; adult/child ₹510/380; h11am-7pm). Both are well maintained and have lots of rides, slides and shade. Combined tickets are ₹710/580 (adult/child). Low-season weekday ticket prices are lower. It’s a ₹35 ferry ride from Borivali jetty. BNHS (p731) and Yuhina Eco-Media (p731) often conduct nature trips for kids while Yoga Sutra (Map p724; %32107067; www.yogasutra.co.in; Chinoy Mansions, Bhulabhai Desai Rd, Cumballa Hill; drop-in classes ₹300) has kids’ yoga classes, taught in English.

737

S L E E P I N (BOMBAY G MUMBAI ) SLEEPING

YWCA GUESTHOUSE $$ (%22025053; www.ywcaic.info; 18 Madame Cama Rd; s/d/t/q incl breakfast, dinner & taxes ₹2024/3000/4200/6000; aiW) The YWCA

spiﬀy new makeover that has turned ratty plywood walls and shoebox-sized rooms into simple but near hotel-quality accommodation, with communal bathrooms and sinks that approach those of design hotels. On the floor below, the same owners oﬀer

738

GAY & LESBIAN MUMBAI

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

The decriminalisation of homosexuality – a law on the Indian books for 148 years – by Delhi’s High Court in July 2009 means India is out of the closet, but cosmopolitan Mumbai has been slow on the uptake. The pioneering GLBTQ magazine Bombay Dost (www.bombaydost.co.in) organises Sunday High, a twice-monthly screening of queer-interest films, usually in the suburbs, and is an excellent resource on happenings around town. You can pick up a copy at Oxford Bookstore (p750) in Churchgate as well as the Humsafar Trust (p1166) oﬃces around town. Queer Ink (www.queer-ink.com) is an online Indian bookstore specialising in gay and lesbian books and magazines of every ilk. The Kashish-Mumbai International Queer Film Festival (www.mumbaiqueerfest. com) made its debut in 2010 and is expected to become an annual event. XXWHY, a documentary short by Mumbai-based filmmaker Dr Bharaty Manjula about Kerala’s first out female-to-male transgender, was the big winner in the inaugural event. Around town, no dedicated gay and lesbian bars/clubs have yet opened but gayfriendly ‘safe house’ venues often host private gay parties on specific nights – see the following. Check out Gay Bombay (www.gaybombay.org) for listings.

Azaardbaazaar BOUTIQUE (Map p742); 16th/33rd Rd, Bandra; hclosed Monday) Billed as India’s first GLBTQ pride store, tucked in a garage off 33rd Rd. Just Around the Corner CAFE (Map p742); cnr 24th & 30th Rd, Bandra West; mains ₹95-375; hlunch) This great cafe is a popular meeting point for the GLBTQ crowd, but it’s popular with everyone for its tolerance across the board. Voodoo Pub NIGHTCLUB (Map p728; %22841959; Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder Rd, Colaba; cover ₹300) This dark and sweaty bar has unofficially hosted Mumbai’s only regular gay night on Saturdays since 1994 – long before it was trendy (or legal) to do so. There is little going on other nights of the week, but staff are screened for open-mindedness and it’s considered gay friendly all week long. Eclipse Lounge NIGHTCLUB (off Map p730; 11/13 Walchand Hirachand Marg, Ballard Estate) Formerly known as Let’s Scream, the dark and iffy Eclipse was quick to point out it isn’t gay, but does often host private gay parties. Bentley’s Hotel HOTEL $$ (%22841474; www.bentleyshotel.com; 17 Oliver Rd; s/d incl breakfast & tax from ₹1690/2090; a)

Colonial charm aplenty, with old-school floor tiles and wooden furniture; its location spread out over several buildings on Oliver St and Henry Rd can all seem a bit The Shining–like isolated.

Regent Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%22871853/4; www.regenthotelcolaba.com; 8 Best Marg; r/tr with AC incl breakfast & tax ₹4290/4620; ai) An upper-scale Arabian-

flavoured hotel with marble surfaces and soft pastels aplenty. The retro-chic breakfast area fills the 1st floor hallway, so avoid rooms 101–110 if you plan to sleep in.

FORT, CHURCHGATE & MARINE DRIVE

For mapped locations of the following venues see Map p730, unless otherwise stated.

oResidency Hotel

HOTEL $$

(Map p730; %22625525; www.residencyhotel. com; 26 Rustom Sidhwa Marg, Fort; s/d from ₹2500/2700; aiW) This polarising hotel

can be hit or miss. On one hand, the small rooms in the original building – where a waft of sweet lemongrass graces the lobby – are older but come with fridges, flat-screen TVs and flip-flops (thongs), while the newly annexed building next door houses a far more modern design-style hotel with rain showers, leather-walled elevators and free wi-fi. But during our visit, a Londoner was overheard complaining, ‘One of our rooms

smells like cigarettes, the other like urine’, so it’s a gamble. Welcome Hotel HOTEL $$ (oﬀ Map p730; %6631488; welcome _hotel@vsnl. com; 257 Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹2783/3278, without bathroom from ₹1397/1595; aW) Its reputation as immacu-

Sea Green Hotels HOTEL $$ (Map p730; s/d ₹2500/3150; aW) Seagreen Hotel (%66336525; www.seagreenhotel.com; 145 Marine Dr); Sea Green South Hotel (%22821613; www.sea greensouth.com; 145A Marine Dr) These identical

art deco hotels have spacious but spartan AC rooms, originally built in the 1940s to house British soldiers. Snag a sea-view room – they’re the same price – and you’ve secured top value in this price range (even with the 10% service charge). West End Hotel HOTEL $$$ (Map p730; %22039121; www.westendhotelmum bai.com; 45 New Marine Lines; s/d with AC from ₹3900/4500; aW) This accidentally retro

hotel boasts a nonchalant funky vibe built around old-fashioned rooms that are spacious, with bathtubs, shagalicious rugs and modish daybeds. Trident HOTEL $$$ (Oberoi Hotel; Map p730; %66324343; www.trid enthotels.com; Marine Dr, Nariman Point; s/d from ₹18,750/20,000; aiWs) The Trident is,

along with the Oberoi, part of the Oberoi

InterContinental HOTEL $$$ (%39879999; www.intercontinental.com; 135 Marine Dr, Churchgate; r incl breakfast from ₹19,500; aiWs) Very sleek for an InterContinen-

tal. All earth tones and Buddha chic, the spacious deluxe rooms are sizeable in their own right, while the halfmoon corner suites mirror the curved elegance of Marine Drive’s Queen’s Necklace. The stunning Dome bar and restaurant stylishly graces the rooftop and overlooks the sea, while Koh turns Thai food on its head at the lobby level.

Traveller’s Inn GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p730; %22644685; 26 Adi Marzban Rd, Ballard Estate; dm ₹500, r ₹900, with AC ₹1150;aiW)

On a quiet, tree-lined street, the tiny Traveller’s Inn underwent a spiﬀy renovation in 2010 and now boasts bigger rooms (and thinner hallways); and new air-con units, lockers and windows, making a good budget choice that much better.

Hotel Lawrence GUESTHOUSE $ (%22843618; 3rd fl, ITTS House, 33 Sai Baba Marg; s/d/tr without bathroom incl breakfast & tax ₹600/700/900) A bottom-barrel guesthouse

tucked away in a little side lane offering clean crashpads that are popular with shoestring meditators – and a management that tends to enforce moral judgements on guests.

Hotel City Palace HOTEL $$ (%22666666; www.hotelcitypalace.net; 121 City Tce, Walchand Hirachand Marg; s/d without bathroom from ₹803/1350, r with bathroom from ₹2200; a) Organised and clean, across

from CST. If you just got off an overnight

KOTACHIWADI This storied wadi (hamlet) is a bastion clinging onto Mumbai life as it was before highrises. A Christian enclave of elegant two-storey wooden mansions, it’s 500m northeast of Girgaum Chowpatty (Map p724), lying amid Mumbai’s predominantly Hindu and Muslim neighbourhoods. These winding laneways allow a wonderful glimpse into a quiet life free of rickshaws and taxis. It’s not large by any means, but you can lose considerable moments wandering these fascinating alleyways – no doubt in shock that the hustle and bustle of the real Mumbai is but steps away. To find it, aim for St Teresa’s Church (Map p724) on the corner of Jagannath Shankarsheth Marg (JS Marg) and RR Roy Marg (Charni Rd), then head directly opposite the church on JS Marg and duck down the second and third lanes on your left.

739

S L E E P I N (BOMBAY G MUMBAI ) SLEEPING

late was crushed when a cockroach scurried across our authoring desk but, all things considered, this is a cleaner-than-most midrange choice. New top-floor executive rooms evoke a diﬀerent hotel altogether – a boutique makeover has turned them into something more LA than Bombay. Rates include evening tea in the rooms. For value under ₹2000, it’s tough to beat.

Hotel complex. But the Trident wins out both on price and on the spiﬀy, streamlined design of its restaurants, bars and pool area. The rates above are rack, but you can get the rooms for half depending on occupancy.

740

train, the rooms are no bigger than a sleeper compartment, so you won’t suffer any disorientation at wake up. THE SUBURBS

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

There are several midrange hotels on Nehru Rd Extension in Vile Parle East near the domestic airport, but rooms are overpriced and only useful for early or late flights. Juhu is convenient for Juhu Beach and for the restaurants, shops and clubs in Bandra.

oIskcon

GUESTHOUSE $$

(Map p742; %26206860; guesthouse.mumbai@ pamho.net; Hare Krishna Land, Juhu; s/d incl tax ₹2095/2495, with AC incl tax ₹2395/2995; ai) If

you are looking for an experience rather than a shelter, this eﬃciently managed guesthouse, part of Juhu’s lively Hare Krishna complex, is one of Mumbai’s most interesting choices. The lobby looks out into the temple, while rooms in the two flamingo-pink towers have pretty lacquered sankheda (lacquered country wood) furniture from Gujarat and those in the original tower have semicircular balconies. The whole things feel like you are in the thick of India, which is more than can be said for most of the resort or businessoriented hotels out this way. Don’t miss the evening aarti (candle-lighting ritual). Four Seasons Hotel HOTEL $$$ (oﬀ Map p724; %24818000; www.fourseasons.com; 114 Dr E Moses Rd, Worli; r from ₹15,200; aiWs)

This modern Four Seasons is everything you expect it to be: exemplary service, psychic staﬀ, everything classic yet slick as oil. Now with the addition of its fashionable rooftop lounge Aer (p746), it’s hip as hopscotch, too.

Hotel Kemps Corner HOTEL $$ (Map p724; %23634646; 131 August Kranti Marg; s/d from ₹2700/3800; aW) A general spiﬃng

-up of the place means the prices at this friendly midrange are no longer the deal they once were, but it remains a great spot in the heart of the Kemp’s Corner fashion bonanza (which is a lot less frenzied than Colaba or Fort) and walking distance to Haji Ali Mosque and Girgaum Chowpatty. Service comes with more smiles than most, though it takes a serious dive on Sundays. Juhu Residency BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (Map p742; %67834949; www.juhuresidency.com; 148B Juhu Tara Rd, Juhu; s/d with AC incl breakfast from ₹5000;aiW) A makeover two years

ago turned this into a quasi-boutique hotel, with sleek marble floors, king-size beds (in

the premium rooms), dark woods and artistic bedspreads imported from Singapore. There are three restaurants for 18 rooms, and one, the Melting Pot, garners accolades for its Indian cuisine. A great choice if you’re looking for something hip and intimate that won’t cost you a fortune. Hotel Suba International BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (Map p742; %67076707; www.hotelsubainterna tional.com; Sahar Rd, Vile Parle East; s/d with AC incl breakfast from ₹6000/7000;aW) Brand-

spanking new at time of research, this hitech boutique business hotel is just 1km from the international terminal, 3km from the domestic. It’s laid out in slick blacks and glossy marble, with clean lines and lots of masculine hardwoods and design-forward touches. All the electronics in the rooms are controlled wirelessly by iPod Touch! If it’s full, its sister property in Andheri East, Hotel Suba Galaxy (Map p742; %26821188; www. hotelsubagalaxy.com; NS Phadke Rd, Andheri East; s/d with AC incl breakfast from ₹3200/6000;aW),

isn’t as shiny but is an acceptable alternative. Sun-n-Sand HOTEL $$$ (Map p742; %66938888; www.sunnsandhotel. com; 39 Juhu Beach, Juhu; r with AC from ₹7500; aiWs) The Sun-n-Sand has been oﬀering

up beachfront hospitality for decades. The newly renovated 4th floor oﬀers shiny new hardwood floors and some bathtubs, but the best rooms remain the sea-facing ones (from ₹8500): lots of silk and the pleasant burntorange motif complement the pool, palmtree and ocean views from the huge window. It’s oﬀ Juhu Rd, near the old Holiday Inn.

ITC Maratha HOTEL $$$ (Map p742; %28303030; www.itcwelcomgroup. in; Sahar Rd, Andheri East; s/d incl breakfast & tax from ₹22,000/23,500; aiWs) The five-star

with the most luxurious Indian character, from the Jaipur-style lattice windows around the atrium to the silk pillows on the beds to Peshawri, one of the best restaurants in town.

Hotel Columbus HOTEL $$ (Map p742; %42144343; www.hotelcolumbus.in; 344 Nanda Patkar Rd, Vile Parle East; r with AC from ₹3000; aiW) The best midrange in

the domestic airport area, with gussied-up super deluxe rooms (₹4000) with stylised wood-grain accents, flat-screen TVs and an aspiration for high design.

Citizen Hotel HOTEL $$$ (Map p742; %66932525; www.citizenhotelmum bai.com; Juhu Tara Rd, Juhu; s/d with AC incl

less expensive sister is just as big a draw as the original, with cool tunes, warm decor and massive wooden tables. It has breakfast all day (₹155 to ₹295), casual meals, French press coﬀee, wines (₹300 to ₹690 per glass) and is also a bakery and deli.

5 Eating

Theobroma CAFE $ (Colaba Causeway; confections ₹40-85) Theo-

In this gastro-epicentre a cornucopia of flavours from all over India collides with international trends and tastebuds. Colaba is home to most of the cheap tourist haunts, while Fort and Churchgate skew more upscale, a trend that continues as you head north to Mahalaxmi and the Central Suburbs, where you’ll find Mumbai’s most exciting, cutting-edge and expensive restaurants. For self-caterers, the Colaba market (Map p728; Lala Nigam St) has fresh fruit and vegetables. Saharkari Bhandar Supermarket

(Map p728; %22022248; cnr Colaba Causeway & Wodehouse Rd; h10am-8.30pm) and, even better, Suryodaya (Map p730; %22040979; Veer Nariman Rd; h7.30am-8.30pm) are well-stocked

supermarkets.

COLABA

For mapped locations of the following venues see Map p728. Indigo FUSION, EUROPEAN $$$ (%66368980; 4 Mandlik Marg; mains ₹525-945; hlunch & dinner) Over a decade in and still a

star, Colaba’s finest eating option is a gourmet haven serving inventive European cuisine, a long wine list, sleek ambience and a gorgeous roof deck lit with fairy lights. Favourites include excellent kiwi margaritas, tea-grilled quail (₹625), anise-rubbed white salmon (₹725) and inventive takes on traditional cuisine like juniper-berry-cured tandoori chicken (₹625). Its cool quotient has chilled a bit with the focus on the suburbs, but it remains a high-gastronomy favourite. Bademiya INDIAN $ (Tulloch Rd; meals ₹50-100) If you can walk by

this street-stall-on-steroids without coming away with a chicken tikka roll in hand, you are a better person than us. This whole street buzzes nightly with punters from all walks of Mumbai life lining up for spicy, fresh grilled treats. If Mumbai street food scares the bejesus out of you, this is the spot to get over it. Indigo Delicatessen CAFE $$ (Pheroze Bldg, Chhatrapati Shivaji Marg; mains ₹245-495; h9am-midnight) Indigo’s casual and

broma calls its creations ‘food of the gods’ – and it ain’t lying. Dozens of perfectly executed cakes, tarts and chocolates, as well as sandwiches and breads, go well with the coffee here. The genius pistachio-andgreen-cardamom truffle (₹30) or decadent chocolate overload brownie (₹65) should send you straight into a glorious sugar coma. A bigger location has opened in Bandra West (Map p742). Wich Latte CAFE $$ (Map p728; Western Breeze Bldg, Colaba; sandwiches ₹120-175) Churning out excellent coffee

but trumping both Coﬀee Day and Barista when it comes to food, Wich Latte bills itself as India’s first sandwich cafe. For breakfast, the bagelwiches are an excellent homesick remedy and throughout the day there are salads, sandwiches and pizza. There’s also a convenient location in Kala Ghoda (Map p730), but it opens from lunch onwards.

New Laxmi Vilas SOUTH INDIAN (19A Ram Mansion, Nawroji F Rd; mains ₹23-85)

A budget eatery that serves great South India specialities. KALA GHODA & FORT

oKhyber

NORTH INDIAN $$$

(Map p730; h40396666; 145 MG Rd,Fort; mains ₹225450; hlunch & dinner) Like Bukhara in Delhi,

Khyber is an iconic restaurant the thought of which will spark Pavlovian drooling for years to come. The burnt-orange, Afghan-inspired interiors are a multitiered and cavernous maze of moody Mughal royalty art embedded in exposed brick, tasteful antique oil lanterns and urns, and railway-trestle ceilings. As mouth-watering Punjabi/North Indian kebabs, biryanis and curries saunter their way to a who’s who of Mumbai’s elite, your tastebuds will do a happy dance – before the disheartening realisation: too much food, too little space. Highlights of the meat-centric menu include the Reshmi Kebab Masala, a transcendent dish of cream and yoghurt-marinated chicken drowning in the restaurant’s intricate red masala; and its pièce de résistance, raan (a whole leg of slow-cooked lamb).

741

E AT I N G (BOMBAY ) E AT I N G MUMBAI

breakfast from ₹7000/7500; aiW) The Citizen’s location is what you’re paying for here, but rooms are also well maintained, with marble floors and marble-top furniture, flat-screen TVs, wi-fi access, fridges – and, of course, excellent beach views.

742

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Five Spice INDO-CHINESE $$ (Map p730; 296A Perin Nariman St, Sangli Bank Bldg, Fort; mains ₹220-275; hlunch & dinner) A

30-minute wait is commonplace at this overheated, near-divey Indo-Chinese Godsend that’s so good, it’ll make you downright an-

gry you can’t eat Chinese like this at home. The menu is packed with chicken, lamb, prawn and veg dishes, all tantalising, so choosing is an issue. We went for the chicken in burnt chilli sauce (₹235) and dumped it on a bed of burnt chilli rice (₹185) –

743

Central Suburbs æ Sights 1 Wall Project ............................................ B6

ÿ Sleeping 4 Citizen Hotel........................................... A2 5 Hotel Columbus..................................... C2 6 Hotel Suba Galaxy ..................................C1 7 Hotel Suba International....................... C2 8 Iskcon ......................................................A1 9 ITC Maratha ........................................... D2 10 Juhu Residency ..................................... A2 11 Sun-n-Sand .............................................A1 ú Eating 12 Culture Curry ......................................... B6 Five Spice ...................................... (see 21) Goa Portuguesa............................ (see 12) 13 Just Around the Corner ........................ B4 14 Lemongrass ........................................... A4 15 Mahesh Lunch Home ............................ A2 Peshawri.......................................... (see 9) Prithvi Cafe....................................(see 23) 16 Salt Water Cafe...................................... A5 17 Sheesha.................................................. B4 18 Theobroma ............................................ B4

quite possibly the best thing since the fortune cookie. Of course, there’s one in Bandra (Map p742). Trishna SEAFOOD $$$ (Map p730; %22614991; Sai Baba Marg, Kala Ghoda; mains ₹170-575; hlunch & dinner) An out-

standing and intimate seafood restaurant focused on Mangalorean preparations. The crab with butter, black pepper and garlic and Hyderabadi fish tikka are house specialities that warrant the hype, while service is underbearing, friendly and helpful. One of the best seafooders in town. Reservations unnecessary before 8pm.

Brittania PARSI $$ (oﬀ Map p730; Wakefield House, 11 Sprott Rd, Ballard Eatte; mains ₹100-250; hlunch Mon-Sat) The

kind of place traveller’s tales are made of – this Mumbai icon, and its endearing owner, has been going since 1923. The signature dish is the berry pulao (₹250) – spiced and boneless mutton or chicken buried in basmati rice and tart barberries, imported to

ý Entertainment Bonobo...........................................(see 18) 23 Prithvi Theatre........................................ A1 24 Trilogy .....................................................A2 þ Shopping 25 Azaadbazaar...........................................B4 Biba ................................................. (see 2) 26 Fabindia ..................................................B3 27 Shrujan.................................................... B1 Information 28 French Consulate...................................C4 29 Humsafar Trust ......................................C3 30 Malaysian Consulate.............................................A4 31 New Zealand Consulate.............................................C4 32 UK Consulate..........................................C4 Transport 33 Qantas..................................................... C1

the tune of 1000kg per year from Iran. The owner, Boman Kohinoor – born the year his father opened the place – will take your order and chat your ear oﬀ. Dead simple, dead delicious. Café Moshe CAFE $$ (Map p730; Fabindia, 1st fl, Jeroo Bldg, MG Rd, Kala Ghoda; light meals ₹120-270; hlunch & dinner) After shopping downstairs, refuel with

Moshe’s excellent salads, sandwiches, baked goods, coﬀees and smoothies. There’s also a Moshe’s in Kemp’s Corner (Map p724); and Colaba (Map p728), where you’ll find an extended menu, including the famed marinated garlic, mushroom, leek and capsicum open-faced sandwich with melted mozzarella on brown bread. Mahesh Lunch Home SEAFOOD $$$ (Map p730; %22023965; 8B Cowasji Patel St, Fort; mains ₹150-600; hlunch & dinner) A great place

to try Mangalorean seafood in Mumbai. It’s renowned for its ladyfish, pomfret, lobster and crabs; the rawas tikka (marinated

E AT I N G (BOMBAY ) E AT I N G MUMBAI

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 2 Khatwara Institute................................. B4 3 Yoga Institute......................................... B3

û Drinking Elbo Room .....................................(see 18) 19 Mocha Bar...............................................B2 20 Olive Bar & Kitchen ................................A4 21 Toto's Garage .........................................B4 22 WTF! ........................................................B4

744

DABBA-WALLAHS

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

A small miracle of logistics, Mumbai’s 5000 dabba-wallahs (dabba means food container; also called tiﬃn-wallahs) work tirelessly to deliver hot lunches to oﬃce workers throughout the city. Lunch boxes are picked up each day from restaurants and homes and carried on heads, bicycles and trains to a centralised sorting station. A sophisticated system of numbers and colours (many wallahs are illiterate) identifies the destination of each lunch. More than 200,000 meals are delivered – always on time, come (monsoon) rain or (searing) shine. This system has been used for centuries and, on average, there’s only about one mistake per six million deliveries. No wonder dabba-wallahs take immense pride in their work.

white salmon) and tandoori pomfret are outstanding. There’s also a branch on Juhu Tara Rd (Map p742). Badshah Snacks & Drinks INDIAN (Map p724; snacks ₹30-110) Opposite Craw-

ford market, Badshah’s been serving snacks, fruit juices and its famous falooda (rose-flavoured drink made with milk, cream, nuts and vermicelli – like swallowing a bed of roses!) to hungry bargainhunters for more than 100 years.

Rajdhani INDIAN $$ (Map p724; 361 Sheikh Memon St, Kalbadevi; thali ₹249; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, lunch Sun)

Opposite Mangaldaas Market, Rajdhani is famous for its Gujarati and Rajasthani thalis. On Sundays, dinner isn’t served and thali prices jump ₹50.

first thali, strap yourself in – the cavalcade of taste and texture will leave you wondering what the hell just happened – then they bring the rice. With a dizzying number of concoctable bites, it’s as adventurous and diverse as India itself. Samrat is the anchor behind a pure-veg empire in the same location, which includes 210°C, an outdoor cafe and bakery, and Relish, a funky spot that’s home to Asian-Mexican-Lebanese fusion. K Rustom SWEETS (87 Stadium House, Veer Nariman Rd; dessert ₹40; hlunch & dinner) Nothing but a few

metal freezers, but the ice-cream sandwich (₹40) has been pleasing Mumbaikar palettes since 1953. Delish. GIRGAUM CHOWPATTY

CHURCHGATE

For mapped locations of the following venues see Map p724.

For mapped locations of the following venues, see Map p730.

oNew Kulfi Centre

oKoh

THAI $$$

(InterContinental Marine Dr; %39879999; mains ₹495-925; hlunch & dinner) India’s first sig-

nature Thai restaurant is Mumbai’s hottest dining destination. Celebrity chef Ian Kittichai works his native cuisine into an international frenzy of flavour that starts with the ‘liquid gastronomy’, which might be a jasmine and honey martini or a Bloody Mary made with lemongrass-infused vodka and sriracha chilli; from there the envelope is further pushed into revelational dishes like the 12-hour lamb shank Massaman curry – pair it with hot-stone garlic rice – that throws preconceived notions about Thai food to the Mumbai curb.

Samrat SOUTH INDIAN $$ (%42135401; Prem Ct, J Tata Rd; lunch/dinner thalis ₹220/260; hlunch & dinner) If this is your

SWEETS $

(cnr Chowpatty Seaface & Sardar V Patel Rd; kulfi per 100gm ₹20-40; h9am-1.30am) Serves the

best kulfi (firm-textured ice cream served in killer flavours like pistachio, rose and saffron) you’ll have anywhere, which means it will rock your pants oﬀ. When you order, the kulfi is placed on a betel-nut leaf and then weighed on an ancient scale – which makes it even better. Cream Centre CAFE $$ (Chowpatty Seaface; mains ₹100-249; hlunch & dinner) This sleek and contemporary

Indian diner is hugely popular for its pure-veg hodgepodge of Indian, Mexican and Lebanese as well as its extensive menu of sizzling sundaes (₹195 to ₹220), which take ‘hot fudge’ to the boiling point!

MAHALAXMI TO WORLI

For mapped locations of the following venues see Map p724.

Tote on the Turf FUSION $$$ (Map p724; %61577777; Near Gate No 5 & 6, Mahalaxmi Racecourse, Mahalaxmi; mains ₹485-985; hlunch & dinner) Funky, all-white tree-branch

Cafe Noorani NORTH INDIAN $$ (Tardeo Rd, Haji Ali Circle; mains ₹120-180; hlunch & dinner) This almost-retro diner is a requisite

stop before or after visiting Haji Ali Mosque. On the menu is the gamut of Moghlai and Punjabi staples, all done well and cheap. The chicken tikka biryani is so good, you’ll forgive a bite or two of gristle.

THE SUBURBS

North Mumbai is home to the city’s trendiest dining, centered on Bandra West and Juhu. For mapped locations of the following venues see Map p742.

oPeshawri

NORTH INDIAN $$$

(%28303030; ITC Maratha, Sahar Rd; mains ₹7001675; hlunch & dinner) Make this Indian north-

With maybe the most beautiful ambience in town, Sheesha’s alfresco rooftop lair has glass lanterns hanging from wooden beams, comfy couches and coloured-glass lamps high above the city and shopping madness below. You almost forget about the food, though you shouldn’t; the countless kebabs and curries are outstanding. Otherwise, it’s all hookah action (no alcohol). Order double apple: ‘It’s way better than apple’, as one Desi beauty put it. Reserve on weekends.

Lemongrass SOUTHEAST ASIAN $$ (Carlton Ct, cnr of Turner & Pali Rds, Bandra West; mains ₹215-400; hlunch & dinner) In a good

spot for watching Bandra streetlife, Lemongrass serves up tasty Southeast Asian fare from Myanmar (Burma) to Indonesia. The veg or meat khowsuey (Burmese noodles with a coconut broth; ₹400) is superb; and the service is above and beyond for its price: staﬀ fronted our rickshaw fare when we didn’t have small change; and the owner told us, ‘If you don’t like the food, send it back’. No, he didn’t know who we were.

Salt Water Cafe FUSION $$$ (87 Chapel Rd, Bandra; mains ₹180-500) This

west frontier restaurant, just outside the international airport, your first or last stop in Mumbai. It’s pricy as hell, but you won’t regret forking out the ₹2700 (feeds two easily) for the exquisite Sikandari raan (leg of spring lamb braised in malt vinegar, cinnamon, black cumin) – it will forever skew your standards of lamb. The buttery dhal Bukhara (a thick black dhal cooked for a day; ₹700) is also memorable.

foodie find oﬀers one of Mumbai’s most ambitious menus. It made a name for itself for marrying dramatically opposing flavours (green peppercorn chicken with grape jus, cardamom and carrot mash) but most of the menu is just mouth-watering global fusion. The aesthetically cold design is as much of a contrast to India as some of the recipes, and service grinds to a crawl at lunchtime, but it’s a lovely spot to twist up your tastebuds after a curry overdose.

Culture Curry SOUTH INDIAN $$ (Kataria Rd, Matunga West; mains ₹209-459; hlunch & dinner) As the Culture Curry folks

Prithvi Cafe CAFE $ (Map p742; Juhu Church Rd, Juhu; light meals ₹70140) You’d never know it was there, but this

rightly point out, there’s a lot more to southern food than idli and dosas. Exquisite dishes from all over the south, ranging from Andhra and Coorg to Kerala, are the specialty here. Vegies are particularly well served: the Kooru Curry (kidney and green beans in coconut gravy; ₹179) is extraordinary. The same owners run Goa Portuguesa (attached), specialising in fiery Goan dishes, where the ‘Chicken Chilly Fry’ is also a knockout (₹299). From Matunga station, it’s about 750m west on Katinga Rd on the left.

bohemian cafe attached to the Prithvi Theatre is a cultural hub of intellectuals, artists and theatre types who tuck themselves away in the lush, bamboo-heavy spot for all-day breakfast, cheap kebab value meals, sandwiches and savoury croissants. The non-veg combo is distinctly average, but the vibe more than makes up for it. Try the Irish coﬀee instead!

Drinking

Mumbai’s lax attitude to alcohol means that there are loads of places to drink – from hole-

745

D R I N K I N (BOMBAY G MUMBAI ) DRINKING

interiors and ridiculously beautiful crowds aside, this hip new restaurant from the folks who own Indigo dishes out Euro-fusion, split into veg (like green garlic risotto with palm hearts, cherry tomatoes and chilli feta) and non-veg (grilled chicken with stuﬀed Bhavnagri chilli and mustard sauce). Don’t dismiss the thin, wood-fired pizzas, which caused a bit of order envy on our visit.

Sheesha NORTH INDIAN $$ (%66770555; 7th fl, Shoppers Stop, Linking Rd, Bandra West; mains ₹145-295; hlunch & dinner)

746

in-the-wall beer bars and chichi lounges to brash, multilevel superclubs – but the 25% liquor tax means bills can bring sticker shock. If it’s the caﬀeine buzz you’re after, Barista and Café Coﬀee Day cafes are ubiquitous in Mumbai.

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

SKala Ghoda Café

CAFE

(Map p730; 10 Ropewalk Ln, Fort) An artsy, modern

and miniscule cafe that’s a favourite among journalists and other creative types, who come for the organic Arabica and Robusta coﬀee sourced from sustainable plantations, organic teas, small bite sandwiches and salads, and charming breakfasts – and then fight for one of the few tables. Even the jaggery (natural sugar) is organic. It’s across the street from Trishna, but uses the English street name.

Mocha Bar CAFE (h10am-1.30am); Churchgate (Map p730; 82 Veer Nariman Rd); Juhu (Map p742; 67 Juhu Tara Rd)

This atmospheric Arabian-styled cafe is often filled to the brim with bohemians and students deep in esoteric conversation, Bollywood gossip, or just a hookah pipe. Cosy, low-cushioned seating (including some old cinema seats), exotic coﬀees, shakes and teas, and global comfort cuisine promote an intellectually chilaxed vibe.

First Floor CAFE (Map p724; Sitaram Bldg, Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd; h7pm-4am) This local’s secret is the come-

down cafe of choice; there’s no alcohol, but the party ends up here, anyway – especially on Wednesdays and Saturdays – when the cool kids pack the house from 1.30am to 4am to sop up the drunkenness over a Continental mix of burgers, Mexican, Italian and sheeshas. It’s above Zaﬀran, a worthy Muglai restaurant in its own right. Haji Ali Juice Centre JUICE BAR (Lala Lajpatrai Rd, Haji Ali Circle; h5am-1.30am Mon-Sat) An excellent juice megastand,

strategically placed at the entrance to Haji Ali Mosque. A great cool off after the hot sun, overwater pilgrimage.

Samovar Café CAFE (Map p730; Jehangir Art Gallery, 161B MG Rd, Kala Ghoda; meals ₹60-90; hclosed Sun) This

intimate place inside the art gallery overlooks the gardens of the Prince of Wales Museum.

Cha Bar TEAHOUSE (Map p730; Oxford Bookstore, Apeejay House, 3 Dinsha Wachha Marg, Churchgate; teas ₹30-

80;h10am-9.30pm) Thirteen pages of exotic teas, including organic and ayurvedic; and tasty snacks amid lots of books. SOUTH MUMBAI

For mapped locations of the following venues see Map p728, unless otherwise indicated. Cafe Mondegar BAR (%22020591; Metro House, 5A Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd, Colaba) Like Leopold’s, ‘Mondys’ draws a

healthy foreign crowd, too, but with a better mix of friendly Indians, who all cosy up together in the much smaller space, bonding over the excellent jukebox, one of Mumbai’s few. Good music, good people.

Busaba BAR, LOUNGE (%22043779; 4 Mandlik Marg) Red walls and

contemporary Buddha art give this loungey restaurant-bar a nouveau Tao. It’s next to Indigo so gets the same trendy crowd but serves cheaper, more potent cocktails (₹330 to ₹480). There’s a low-key DJ Wednesdays to Sundays from 8.30pm. The upstairs restaurant serves pan-Asian (mains ₹350 to ₹575); its back room feels like a posh treehouse. Reserve ahead if you want a table. Leopold’s Café BAR (cnr Colaba Causeway & Nawroji F Rd) Love it or

hate it, most tourists end up at this Mumbai travellers’ institution at one time or another. Around since 1871, Leopold’s has wobbly ceiling fans, open-plan seating and a rambunctious atmosphere conducive to swapping tales with random strangers. Although there’s a huge menu, the lazy evening beers – especially the 3L yards – are the real draw. Café Universal BAR (Map p730; 299 Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd; h9am11pm Mon-Sat, 4-11pm Sun) A little bit of France

near CST. The Universal has an art nouveau look to it, with butterscotch-colour walls, a wood-beam ceiling and marble chandeliers, and is a cosy place for happy hour and Kingfisher drafts (₹100).

Dome BAR (Map p730; Hotel InterContinental, 135 Marine Dr, Churchgate) This white-on-white rooftop

lounge has awesome views of Mumbai’s curving seafront while cocktails beckon the hip young things of Mumbai nightly. THE SUBURBS

oAer

BAR/LOUNGE

(oﬀ Map p724; Four Seasons Hotel, 33rd fl, 114 Dr E Moses Rd, Worli) With astounding city views on

Shiro LOUNGE (%66156969; Bombay Dyeing Mills Compound, Worli) Shiro has its share of detractors, who

squabble: Overpriced! Too pretentious! Snippy service! Sub-par food! (Maybe…but we adored our crispy spicy avocado sushi roll). Regardless, its status as a shock-andawe venue for a cocktail cannot be denied. Water pours from the hands of towering Japanese faux-stone goddesses into lotus ponds, which reflect shimmering light on the walls. It’s totally over the top, but the drinks are excellent and the DJs spin some mean house (Saturdays) and retro (Fridays). Olive Bar & Kitchen BAR (Map p742; %26058228; Pali Hill Tourist Hotel, 14 Union Park, Khar West; h7.30pm-1.30am) Hip,

gorgeous and snooty, this longtime Mediterranean-style restaurant and bar has light and delicious food (mains ₹525 to ₹950), soothing DJ sounds and pure Ibiza-meetsMykonos decor (even the host is Greek). Thursday and weekends are packed. There’s a second branch at Mahalaxmi Racecourse. WTF! BAR (Map p742; 8 Vora Bldg, 3rd Khar Rd, Khar)

Hilariously named and an equally good time, rambunctious WTF! (pronounced as letters) is a small venue divided in two rooms, one a lipstick-red den of pop culture kitsch and Formica, the other dumbed down with the cricket likely to be on the big screen. The DJ spins right in your face beside the front door – a loud and brash wall of international pop trash. Staﬀ wouldn’t call us a taxi at the end of the night, though – WTF? Toto’s Garage BAR (Map p742; %26005494; 30 Lourdes Heaven, Pali Naka, Bandra West; h6pm-1am) Forget the beau-

tiful people. Toto’s is a down-to-earth local dive done up in a mechanic’s theme where you can go in your dirty clothes, drink pitchers of beer and listen to music that gave us

guilty pleasure with the back-to-back-toback Savage Garden–Linkin Park–AC/DC set. Get there early or you won’t get a seat.

747

Elbo Room PUB (Map p742; St Teresa’s Rd, Khar West) A genuine

bar that approaches resto-lounge but thankfully falls short. Instead, it’s a pub reminiscent of home and a good bet for wines by the glass (₹275 to ₹700) screening both English Premier League and Bundesliga football matches. The Italian-Indian menu is best enjoyed on the terrace while the serious drinkers – no shortage of expats among them – stay inside.

3 Entertainment The daily English-language tabloid Mid-Day incorporates a guide to Mumbai entertainment. Newspapers and Time Out Mumbai (p751) list events and film screenings, while www.nh7.in has live music listings. The cutting-edge Bombay Elektrik Projekt (www. bombayelektrik.com) organises everything from live DJs to poetry slams to short film screenings. It would be a crime not to see a movie in India’s film capital. Unfortunately, Hindi films aren’t shown with English subtitles. The cinemas we’ve listed all show Englishlanguage movies, along with some Bollywood numbers. Big clubs nights are (oddly) Wednesday, as well as the traditional Friday and Saturday; there’s usually a cover charge. Dress codes apply so don’t rock up in shorts and sandals. The trend in Mumbai of late is towards resto-lounges as opposed to full on nightclubs – serious tax implications on discos versus lounges and restaurants means folks got a little clever.

oBluefrog

LIVE MUSIC

(oﬀ Map p724; %6158; www.bluefrog.co.in; D/2 Mathuradas Mills Compound, NM Joshi Marg, Lower Parel; admission after 9pm Sun & Tue-Thu ₹300, Fri & Sat ₹500; h7pm-1am Tue-Sun) The most ex-

citing thing to happen to Mumbai’s music scene in a long time, Bluefrog is a concert space, production studio, restaurant and one of Mumbai’s most happening spaces. It hosts exceptional local and international acts, and has space-age, orange-glowing ‘pod’ seating in the intimate main room. Valhalla RESTO-LOUNGE (Map p730; %67353535; 1st fl, East Wing, Eros Theatre Bldg, Churchgate) This discreet resto-lounge

E N T E R TA(BOMBAY I N M E N T ) E N T E R TA I N M E N T MUMBAI

one side and equally impressive sea views on the other, we’ll be damned if this isn’t India’s most impressive tipple. Aer is a slick, openair rooftop lounge with its share of plush couches as well as weird, uncomfortable plastic ‘lounge chairs’ that cater more to form than function. You’ll need to remortgage your home for something shaken and stirred (₹600), but the ₹250 Kingfishers are a steal at these views. A DJ spins low-key house and techno nightly from 9pm, but who cares? It’s all about the eye candy, both near and far.

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MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

caters to Mumbai’s bold and beautiful, who turn up here amid aubergine walls and baroque aesthetics on Friday and Saturday club nights when everywhere else closes (it’s unofficially open until 4am or so). Getting in isn’t easy – you need to call ahead and get on the list – but if you manage it, you’ll rub elbows with a very high-profile crowd. Not Just Jazz By the Bay LIVE MUSIC (Map p730; %22851876; 143 Marine Dr; admission weekdays/weekends ₹100/300; hnoon-3.30am)

This is the best, and frankly the only, jazz club in South Mumbai. True to its name, there are also live pop, blues and rock performers most nights from 10pm, but Sunday, Monday and Tuesday are reserved for karaoke. By day, there’s a well done all-you-caneat buﬀet (₹325).

Trilogy NIGHTCLUB (Map p742; Hotel Sea Princess, Juhu Tara Rd, Juhu; cover per couple after 11pm ₹1000; hclosed Tue)

Mumbai’s newest club at time of writing is all attitude – rumour has it that staﬀ size up potentials for looks and charge a varying admission accordingly. That bodes well for those who make it past face patrol. The trilevel space is gorgeous, highlighted by a black granite dance floor lit up by 1372 LED cube lights that go oﬀ like an epileptic LiteBrite in an Indian power surge. The imported sound system favours house and hip-hop while the bartenders look imported from Ed Hardy’s employee pool.

Polly Esther’s NIGHTCLUB (Map p728; Gordon House Hotel, Battery St, Colaba; cover per couple Wed, Fri & Sat ₹800-1500)

The city’s fashionistas feel nauseous at its mere mention, but this mirror-plated, cheesy nightclub wallowing in retro gaudiness remains a fun choice to mingle with middle-class Mumbai. The Saturday Night Fever illuminated dance floor stays packed with gossiping 20-somethings and ogling tourists. Wednesday is free for the gals and all but ₹200 is recoupable in drinks most nights.

Wankhede Stadium SPORT (Mumbai Cricket Association; Map p730; %22795500; www.mumbaicricket.com; D Rd, Churchgate) Test matches and One Day In-

ternationals are played a few times a year in season (October to April). Contact the Cricket Association for ticket information; for a test match you’ll probably have to pay for the full five days.

Cooperage Football Ground SPORT (Map p728; %22024020; MK Rd, Colaba; tickets ₹2025) Home to FC Air India, Mumbai FC and

ONGC FC. Hosts national-league and local football (soccer) matches between October and February. Tickets are available at the gate. National Centre for the THEATRE Performing Arts (NCPA; Map p730; %66223737, box oﬃce 22824567; www.ncpamumbai.com; cnr Marine Dr & Sri V Saha Rd, Nariman Point; tickets ₹200-500; hbox oﬃce 9am-7pm) Spanning 800 sq me-

tres, this cultural centre is the hub of Mumbai’s music, theatre and dance scene. In any given week, it might host Marathi theatre, poetry readings and art exhibitions, Bihari dance troupes, ensembles from Europe or Indian classical music. The Experimental Theatre occasionally has English-language plays. Many performances are free. The box oﬃce is at the end of NCPA Marg. Prithvi Theatre THEATRE (Map p742; %26149546; www.prithvitheatre.org; Juhu Church Rd, Juhu) At Juhu Beach, this is

a good place to see both Hindi and English-language theatre. It hosts an excellent annual international theatre festival and there’s a charming cafe, too.

Regal CINEMA (Map p728; %22021017; Opposite Regal Circle, Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd, Colaba; tickets ₹100200) Check out the art deco architecture. Eros CINEMA (Map p730; %22822335; MK Rd, Churchgate; tickets ₹80-120) Metro Big CINEMA (off Map p730; %39894040; MG Rd, New Marine Lines, Fort; tickets ₹100-600) This grand dame of Bombay talkies was just renovated into a multiplex. Sterling CINEMA (Map p730; %66220016; Marzaban Rd, Fort; tickets ₹120-180)

Shopping

Mumbai is India’s great marketplace, with some of the best shopping in the country. You can buy just about anything in the dense bazaars north of CST (Map p724). The main areas are Crawford Market (fruit and veg), Mangaldas Market (silk and cloth), Zaveri Bazaar (jewellery), Bhuleshwar Market (fruit and veg) and Chor Bazaar (antiques and furniture). Dhabu St is lined with fine leather goods and Mutton St specialises in antiques, reproductions and fine junk.

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PRAMOD SIPPY: DJ PRAMZ A Mumbai turntable veteran, DJ Pramz has spun the black circles in the city for over half his lifetime. Here are his top picks.

Cosiest Club

Most Stunning Club Wink (off Map p728; Vivanta by Taj – President Hotel, 90 Cuffe Pde, Cuffe Parade) is a beautifully designed bar with a demarcated area for quick meals. The drinks and service are easily the best in town. Their Winktinis are world-renowned and the music is nothing short of spectacular. I love to perform here because they are open-minded and, in spite of being situated in a five-star [hotel], they don’t entertain requests that fall outside the ambit of the DJ. It’s frequented by a large expatriate crowd who are usually [hotel] guests. Although the space is bright and unlike a club, the pulsating music on weekends makes the vibe quite groovy.

Most Celebrated Club Zenzi Mills (oﬀ Map p724; Mathuradas Mills Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel; hclosed Sun) is a paradise of sorts for all alternative music aficionados. It’s basically an oﬀshoot of the legendary Zenzi (Bandra), which essentially laid the foundation for alternative entertainment in the city. Zenzi widened its horizon by launching Mills, which had everything that the original Zenzi lacked – a state-of-the-art sound system, a beautiful set-up for visuals, a split level space. It works for artists of all alternative genres as the club is open to experimentation. A lot of deep-rooted sentiments are attached to it and it has become immortal for many in their hearts, but word is out that it’s undergoing an image makeover and will be seen in an all-new form and feel. What it’s going to be like is yet a mystery, though.

Crawford Market (Mahatma Phule Market) is the last outpost of British Bombay before the tumult of the central bazaars begins. Basreliefs by Rudyard Kipling’s father, Lockwood Kipling, adorn the Norman Gothic exterior. Snap up a bargain backpacking wardrobe at Fashion Street, the strip of stalls lining MG Rd between Cross and Azad maidans (Map p730), or in Bandra’s Linking Rd, near Waterfield Rd (Map p742) – hone your bargaining skills. Kemp’s Corner has many good shops for designer threads. Various state-government emporiums sell handicrafts in the World Trade Centre Arcade (oﬀ Map p728) near Cuﬀe Parade. Small antique and curio shops line Merewether Rd behind the Taj Mahal Palace (Map p728). They aren’t cheap, but the quality is a step up from government emporiums. If you prefer Raj-era

bric-a-brac, head to Chor Bazaar (Map p724): the main area of activity is Mutton St, where you’ll find a row of shops specialising in antiques (and many ingenious reproductions, so beware) and miscellaneous junk. Fabindia CLOTHING (Map p730; Jeroo Bldg, 137 MG Rd, Kala Ghoda)

Founded as a means to get traditional fabric artisans’ wares to market, Fabindia has all the vibrant colours of the country in its trendy cotton and silk fashions, materials and homewares in a modern-meets-traditional Indian shop. If you are too cool for Indian-wear, try here. The Santa Cruz outpost (Map p742) is also good.

SBombay Electric

CLOTHES

(Map p728; www.bombayeletric.in; 1 Reay House, Best Marg, Colaba) High fashion is the calling

S H O P P I N(BOMBAY G MUMBAI ) SHOPPING

Bonobo (Map p742); Kenilworth, Phase 2, Off Linking Rd, Bandra West) is a home away from home. They don’t impose a dress code neither do they charge an entry. It’s a walk-in and offers some really good cocktails at very good prices. It doesn’t take long for one to establish their comfort level. As a DJ, I love performing there because of the ‘no mainstream music’ policy and of course because the owners are very much on the same page as me. They are young entrepreneurs who understand the global trends and are ready to experiment and do things differently.

750

THE GREAT WALL OF MUMBAI

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

An artistic initiative similar to Berlin’s East Side Gallery, though without the 28 years of oppression and isolation, the Wall Project (Map p742; www.thewallproject.com) was started by a group of ex-art/design students who decided to paint their neighbours’ walls with local themes and artsy graﬃti. This soon spread into a public project that has splashed colourful murals on everything from houses to hospitals all over the suburb of Bandra. The idea quickly began spreading like kaleidoscopic Kudzu – a spray-painted virus that has turned crumbling structures and neglected walls into a living museum of contemporary urban culture. At time of writing, hundreds of artists (and nonartists) have painted some 600 murals, the longest stretch of which starts at Mahim station (West) on Tulsi Pipe Rd (Senapati Bapat Marg) and runs along the Western Railway to Matunga Rd station – nicknamed as the Great Wall of Mumbai. Anyone can visit and paint the wall, as long as the art is not sexually explicit, political, religious or commercial. Grab some acrylic distemper paint – recommended due to harsh weather conditions – and get your art on!

at this trendy unisex boutique next to the Taj Mahal Palace hotel. It sources fabrics (for its own hip brand, Gheebutter) and weaved scarfs and jackets from NGOs in Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat, as well as select antiques and handicrafts. It’s a sharp spot to pick up kurtas (long shirts), dress shirts and stylish T-shirts. Phillips ANTIQUES, CURIOS (Map p728; www.phillipsantiques.com; Wodehouse Rd, Colaba) The 150-year-old Phillips has

nizam-era royal silver, wooden ceremonial masks, Victorian glass and various other gorgeous things that you never knew you wanted. It also has high-quality reproductions of old photos, maps and paintings, and a warehouse shop of big antiques.

SShrujan

HANDICRAFTS

Breach Candy (Map p724; Sagar Villa, Warden Rd, opposite Navroze Apts; hclosed Sun); Juhu (Map p742; Hatkesh Society, 6th North South Rd, JVPD Scheme; hclosed Sun) Selling the intricate em-

broidery work of women in 114 villages in Kutch, Gujarat, the nonprofit Shrujan aims to help women earn a livelihood while preserving the spectacular embroidery traditions of the area. The sophisticated clothing, wall hangings and purses make great gifts. Biba CLOTHING (Map p724; 1 Hughes Rd, Kemp’s Corner; h10.30am-9pm Mon-Sat) You’ll be impos-

stationery, aromatherapy, brass sculptures and, perhaps most interestingly, biodegradable Ganesh idols for use in the Ganesh Chaturthi festival.

SGood Earth

HANDICRAFTS

(Map p728; 2 Reay House, Colaba) This Delhi

transplant hawks gorgeous, eco-leaning housewares, candles, cosmetics and glassware. Funky coasters, hand-decorated china, stylish coffee mugs – all higher end and artsy. Oxford Bookstore BOOKSTORE (Map p730; www.oxfordbookstore.com; Apeejay House, 3 Dinsha Wachha Marg, Churchgate; h8am-10pm) Mumbai’s best, with a tea bar. Crossword BOOKSTORE (Map p724; Mohammedbhai Mansion, NS Patkar Marg, Kemp’s Corner) Enormous. Khadi & Village Industries Emporium CLOTHING

(Khadi Bhavan; Map p730; 286 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)

Khadi Bhavan is dusty, 1940s timewarp with ready-made traditional Indian clothing, material, shoes and handicrafts that are so old they’re new again. Cotton Cottage CLOTHING (Map p730; Agra Bldg, 121 MG Rd, Kala Ghoda; h10am-9pm) Stock up on simple cotton

kurtas and various pants – salwars, churidars, patiala – for the road.

sibly fashionable in LA or London in these sundresses! Also in Khar West (p742).

Mini Market/Bollywood Bazaar

Bombay Store HANDICRAFTS (Map p730; Western India House, Sir PM Rd, Fort; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6.30pm Sun)

(Map p724; %23472427; 33/31 Mutton St; h11am-8pm Sat-Thu) Sells original vin-

A classy selection of rugs, clothing, teas,

ANTIQUES, CURIOS

tage Bollywood posters and other movie

Hindustan Times’ Café insert or Time Out Mumbai (www.timeoutmumbai.net; ₹50).

Kala Niketan CLOTHING (Map p730; 95 MK Rd;h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

Medical Services Bombay Hospital (Map p730; %22067676, ambulance 22067309; www.bombayhospital. com; 12 New Marine Lines) Breach Candy Hospital (Map p724; % 23672888; www.breachcandyhospital.org; 60 Bhulabhai Desai Rd, Breach Candy) Best in Mumbai, if not India. Royal Chemists (Map p730; %220040413; 89A Maharshi Karve Rd, Churchgate; h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Sahakari Bhandar Chemist (Map p728; % 22022399; Colaba Causeway, Colaba; h10am-8.30pm)

Sari madness on Queens Rd.

Mélange CLOTHING (Map p724; 33 Altamount Rd, Kemp’s Corner; hclosed Sun) High-fashion ladies garments

from over 100 Indian designers in a chic exposed-brick space.

Chimanlals HANDICRAFTS (Map p730; 210 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat)

Beautiful writing materials made from traditional Indian paper. Enter from Wallace St.

Rhythm House MUSIC STORE (Map p730; h22842835; 40 K Dubash Marg, Fort; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8.30pm Sun)

Nonpirated CDs; tickets to concerts, plays and festivals.

BX Furtado & Sons MUSIC STORE (off Map p730; www.furtadosonline.com; Jer Mahal, Dhobitalao; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat) The

best place in Mumbai for musical instruments – sitars, tablas, accordions and local and imported guitars. The branch around the corner on Kalbadevi Rd is pianos and sheet music only.

Central Cottage Industries Emporium HANDICRAFTS, SOUVENIRS (Map p728; %22027537; Chhatrapati Shivaji Marg, Colaba; hclosed Sun) Limited souvenir shop-

ping at government-restricted prices.

Standard Supply Co PHOTOGRAPHY (Map p730; %22612468; Image House, Walchand Hirachand Marg, Fort; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)

Everything you could possibly need for digital and film photography.

8 Information

Internet Access Portasia (Kitab Mahal, Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; per hr ₹25; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) Entrance is down a little alley; look for the ‘cybercafe’ sign hanging from a tree. Sify iWay (per 2hr ₹100) Churchgate (Prem Ct, J Tata Rd; h8.30am-9.30pm); Colaba (Donald House, 1st fl, Colaba Causeway; h8.30am9.30pm) The Colaba branch entrance is on JA Allana Marg. Media To find out what’s going on in Mumbai, check out the free burrp! Know Your City (www.mumbai. burrp.com), available in most hotels; the

Money ATMs are everywhere and foreign-exchange offices changing cash and travellers cheques are also plentiful. Akbar Travels Colaba (Map p728; %22823434; 30 Alipur Trust Bldg; h10am-7pm); Fort (Map p730; %22633434; Terminus View, 167/169 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sun) Thomas Cook (h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Colaba (Map p728; %22882517-20; Colaba Causeway); Fort (Map p730; % 61603333; 324 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd) Post The main post office (Map p730; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) is an imposing building behind Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST; Victoria Terminus). Poste restante (h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) is at Counter 1. Letters should be addressed c/o Poste Restante, Mumbai GPO, Mumbai 400 001. Bring your passport to collect mail. The EMS Speedpost parcel counter (h11.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri) is across from the stamp counters. Opposite the post office, under the tree, are parcelwallahs who will stitch up your parcel for ₹40. Colaba post office (Map p728; Henry Rd) Convenient branch. Blue Dart/DHL Churchgate (Map p730; www.bluedart.com; Khetan Bhavan, J Tata Rd; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat); Nariman Point (Map p724; www.dhl.co.in; Embassy Centre; h9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Private express-mail company. Telephone Justdial (% 69999999; www.justdial.com) and %197 provide directory enquiries. Tourist Information Government of India tourist office (Map p730; %22074333; www.incredibleindia.com; 123 Maharshi Karve Rd; h8.30am-7pm MonFri, to 2pm Sat) Provides information for the entire country.

751

8 MUMBAI (BOMBAY ) 8

ephemera as well as odd and interesting trinkets. Call if you get lost.

752

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

Government of India tourist office airport booths domestic (%26156920; h7ammidnight); international (%26813253; h24hr) Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation booth (MTDC; Map p728;%22841877; Apollo Bunder; h8.30am-4pm Tue-Sun, 5.308pm weekends) For city bus tours. MTDC reservation office (Map p730; % 22841877; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; Madame Cama Rd, opposite LIC Bldg, Nariman Point; h9.45am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Information on Maharashtra and bookings for MTDC hotels and the Deccan Odyssey train package. This is also the only MTDC office that accepts credits cards. Travel Agencies Akbar Travels (Map p730; %22633434; www.akbartravelsonline.com; Terminus View, 167/169 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h10am7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sun) Magnum International Travel & Tours (Map p728; % 61559700; 10 Henry Rd, Colaba; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) Thomas Cook (Map p730; %22048556-8; 324 Dr Dadabhai Naoroji Rd, Fort; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Visa Extensions Foreigners’ Regional Registration Office (FRRO; Map p730; %22620446; Annexe Bldg No 2, CID, Badaruddin Tyabji Rd, near Special Branch) Does not officially issue extensions on tourist visas; even in emergencies it will direct you to Delhi (p1174). However, some travellers have managed to procure an emergency extension here after much waiting and persuasion.

INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Travel agencies

are often better for booking international flights, while airline oﬃces are increasingly directing customers to their call centres. The following airline ticket oﬃces are clinging to life in Mumbai: Air India (Map p730; %27580777, airport 26156633; www.airindia.com; Air India Bldg, cnr Marine Dr & Madame Cama Rd, Nariman Point; h9.15am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5.15pm Sat & Sun) Cathay Pacific (off Map p724; % 66572222, airport 66859002/3; www.cathaypacific.com; 2 Brady Gladys Plaza, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) Emirates Airlines (Map p730; % 40974097; www.emirates.com; 3 Mittal Chambers, 228 Nariman Point; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) El Al Airlines (Map p730; % 66207400, airport 66859425/6; www.elal.co.il; 6th fl, NKM International House, BM Chinai Marg, Nariman Point; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Qantas (Map p730; % 61111818; www.qantas. com.au; 4th fl, Sunteck Centre, 37-40 Subhash Rd, Vile Parle; h9am-1.15pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Swiss (Map p730; % 67137240; www.swiss. com; 2nd fl, Vashani Chambers, 9 New Marine Lines; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Thai Airways (Map p730; % 61395599; www. thaiair.com; 2A Mittal Towers A Wing, Nariman Point; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) Major nonstop domestic flights from Mumbai include the following:

Air

DESTINATION

SAMPLE LOWEST ONE-WAY FARE (₹)

gateway to South India and has the busiest network of domestic flights. Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (%domestic 26264000, international 26813000; www.csia.in), about 30km from the city centre, has been undergoing a $2 billion modernisation since 2006. At time of writing, the airport comprises three domestic (1A, 1B and 1C) and one international terminal (2A). However, the domestic side is accessed via Vile Parle and is known locally as Santa Cruz airport, while the international, with its entrance 4km away in Andheri, goes locally by Sahar. Both terminals have ATMs, foreign-exchange counters and tourist-information booths. A free shuttle bus runs between the two every 30 minutes for ticket holders only. By 2014 the shiny new terminal T2 is expected to be open, serving both domestic and international flights, with the existing Santa Cruz terminal being converted to cargo only.

Bengaluru

2533

1½

Chennai

3482

1¾ 2

8 Getting There & Away AIRPORTS Mumbai is the main international

DURATION (HR)

Delhi

3483

Goa

2532

Hyderabad

2282

1¼

Jaipur

2533

1¾

Kochi

3483

1¾

Kolkata

3882

2¾

DOMESTIC AIRLINES The following all have

ticketing counters at the domestic airport; most open 24 hours. GoAir (% call centre 1800 222111, airport 26264789; www.goair.in) Indian Airlines (Map p730; %22023031, call centre 1800 1801407; www.indian-airlines.nic.in;

Bus Numerous private operators and state governments run long-distance buses to and from Mumbai. Private buses are usually more comfortable and simpler to book but can cost significantly more than government buses; they depart from Dr Anadrao Nair Rd near Mumbai Central train station (Map p724). Fares to popular destinations (like Goa) are up to 75% higher during holiday periods. To check on departure times and current prices, try National CTC (Map p724; %23015652; Dr Anadrao Nair Rd; h7am10pm). More convenient for Goa and southern destinations are the private buses run by Chandni Travels (Map p730; %22713901) that depart three times a day from in front of Azad Maidan, just south of the Metro cinema. Ticket agents are located near the bus departure point. Long-distance government-run buses depart from Mumbai Central bus terminal (Map p724; %23074272/1524) by Mumbai Central train station. Buses service major towns in Maharashtra and neighbouring states. They’re cheaper and more frequent than private services, but the quality and crowd levels vary. Popular long-distance bus fares include the following: GOVERN- DURAPRIVATE TION NON-AC/AC MENT DESTINATION SLEEPER ₹ NON-AC ₹ (HR)

Ahmedabad

250/600

N/A

Aurangabad

250/600

368

Mahabaleshwar

450/500*

270

7 14-18

Paniji

300/700

N/A

Pune

200**

170-250

Udaipur

350/1400

N/A

* AC Sitting; **AC Sitting

Train Three train systems operate out of Mumbai, but the most important services for travellers are Central Railways and Western Railways. Tickets for either system can be bought from any station, in South Mumbai or the suburbs, that has computerised ticketing. Central Railways (%134), handling services to the east, south, plus a few trains to the north, operates from CST. The reservation centre (Map p730; %139; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) is around the side of CST where the taxis gather. Foreign tourist-quota tickets (Counter 52) can be bought up to 90 days before travel, but must be paid in foreign currency or with rupees backed by an encashment certificate or ATM receipt. Indrail passes (p 32) can also be bought at Counter 52. You can buy nonquota tickets with a Visa or MasterCard at the much faster credit-card counters (10 and 11) for a ₹30 fee. Refunds for Indians and foreigners alike are handled at Counter 8. Some Central Railways trains depart from Dadar (D), a few stations north of CST, or Churchgate/Lokmanya Tilak (T), 16km north of CST. Western Railways (%131, 132) has services to the north (including Rajasthan and Delhi) from Mumbai Central train station (MC; %23061763, 23073535), usually called Bombay Central (BCT). The reservation centre (Map p730; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun), opposite Churchgate train station, has a foreign touristquota counter (Counter 14). The same rules apply as at CST station. The creditcard counter is No 6.

8 Getting Around To/From the Airports

INTERNATIONAL The prepaid-taxi booth

that is located at the international airport has set fares for every neighbourhood in the city; Colaba, Fort and Marine Dr are AC/non-AC ₹495/395, Bandra West ₹310/260 and Juhu ₹235/190. There’s a ₹10 service charge and a charge of ₹10 per bag. The journey to Colaba takes about 45 minutes at night and 1½ to two hours during the day. Tips are not required. Autorickshaws queue up at a little distance from arrivals, but don’t try to take one to South Mumbai: they can only go as far as Mahim Creek. You can catch an autorickshaw (around ₹40) to Andheri train station and catch a suburban train (₹7, 45 minutes) to Churchgate or CST. Only attempt this if you arrive during the day outside of rush ‘hour’ (6am to 11am) and are not weighed down with luggage. Minibuses outside arrivals oﬀer free shuttle services to the domestic airport and Juhu hotels.

753

8 MUMBAI (BOMBAY ) 8

Air India Bldg, cnr Marine Dr & Madame Cama Rd, Nariman Point) IndiGo (% call centre 1800 1803838; www.goindigo.in) Jet Airways (Map p728; % call centre 39893333, airport 26266575; www.jetairways. com; Amarchand Mansion, Madame Cama Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) JetLite (% call centre 1800 225522; www .jetlite.com) Kingfisher/Kingfisher Red (Map p730;%call centre 1800 2331310, airport 26262605; www .flykingfisher.com; Nirmal Bldg, Marine Dr, Nariman Point; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) SpiceJet (% call centre 1800 1803333, airport 26156155; www.spicejet.com)

754

MAJOR TRAINS FROM MUMBAI DESTINATION

DURATION (HR) DEPARTURE

MUMBAI (BOMBAY )

TRAIN NO & NAME

SAMPLE FARE (₹)

Agra

12137 Punjab Mail

410/1098/1501/2533 22

Ahmedabad

12901 Gujarat Mail

232/594/802/1350

9.50pm MC

Aurangabad

17057 Devagiri Express

176/463/632/1061

9.05pm CST

17617 Tapovan Express

102/363*

6.10am CST

Bengaluru

16529 Udyan Express

363/991/1364/2298

8.05am CST

Bhopal

12137 Punjab Mail

325/857/1167/1958

7.40pm CST

Chennai

11041 Chennai Express

383/1046/1440**

2.00pm CST

Delhi

12951 Rajdhani Express

1495/1975/3305†

4.40pm MC

12137 Punjab Mail

442/1187/1623/2743

25½

7.10pm CST

10103 Mandavi Express

288/782/1073/1799

11½

6.55am CST

12051 Shatabdi Express

283/787/1073/1799

5.10am CST

Margao

7.40pm CST

Hyderabad

12701 Hussainsagar Express 312/823/1119/1876

14½

9.50pm CST

Indore

12961 Avantika Express

320/847/1151/1931

14½

7.05pm MC

Jaipur

12955 Jaipur Express

383/1021/1394/2348 18

Kochi

16345 Netravati Express

430/1178/1624***

26½

11.40am T

Kolkata

12859 Gitanjali Express

508/1883*

30½

6.00am CST

12809 Howrah Mail

508/1374/1883/3190 33

8.35pm CST

Pune

12125 Pragati Express

76/267*

3½

5.10pm CST

Varanasi

11093 Mahanagari Express

422/1157/1593***

2½

12.10am CST

Trivandrum

16345 Netravati Express

1277/1762#

11.40am T

6.50pm MC

Station abbreviations: CST (Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus); MC (Mumbai Central); T (Lokmanya Tilak); D (Dadar) Note: fares are for sleeper/3AC/2AC/1AC except for: * AC/Non-AC, ** sleeper/3AC/2AC, *** Non-AC/3AC/2AC, # 3AC/2AC, † 3AC/2AC/1AC

A taxi from South Mumbai to the international airport should be between ₹350 and ₹400 by negotiating a fixed fare beforehand; oﬃcial baggage charges are ₹10 per bag. Add 25% to the meter charge between midnight and 5am. We love the old-school black-and-yellows, but there are also AC, metered call taxis run by Meru (%44224422; www.merucabs.com), charging ₹20 for the first kilometre and ₹14 per kilometre thereafter (25% more at night). Routes are tracked by GPS, so no rip-oﬀs! DOMESTIC Taxis and autorickshaws queue up outside both domestic terminals. The prepaid counter is outside arrivals. A non-AC/AC taxi to Colaba or Fort costs ₹350/400, day or night, plus ₹10 per bag. For Juhu, ₹150/200. A cheaper alternative is to catch an autorickshaw between the airport and Vile Parle train station (₹20 to ₹30), and a train between Vile Parle and Churchgate (₹7, 45 minutes). Don’t attempt this during rush hour (6am to 11am).

Boat Both PNP (%22885220) and Maldar Catamarans (%22829695) run regular ferries to Mandwa (oneway ₹110), useful for access to Murud-Janjira and other parts of the Konkan Coast, avoiding the long bus trip out of Mumbai. Their ticket oﬃces are at Apollo Bunder (near the Gateway of India; Map p728). Bus Mumbai’s single- and double-decker buses are good for travelling short distances. Fares around South Mumbai cost ₹3 for a section; pay the conductor once you’re aboard. The service is run by BEST (Map p728; www.bestundertaking. com), which has a depot in Colaba (the website has a useful search facility for bus routes across the city). Just jumping on a double-decker (such as bus 103) is an inexpensive way to see South Mumbai. Day passes are available for ₹25.

In the table following are some useful routes; all of these buses depart from the bus stand at the southern end of Colaba Causeway and pass Flora Fountain. DESTINATION

BUS NO

Breach Candy

132, 133 1, 3, 21, 103, 124

Churchgate

70, 106, 123, 132

Girgaum Chowpatty

103, 106, 107, 123

Haji Ali

83, 124, 132, 133

Hanging Gardens

103, 106

Mani Bhavan

123

Mohammed Ali Rd

1, 3, 21

Mumbai Central train station

124, 125

Car Cars are generally hired for an eight-hour day and an 80km maximum, with additional charges if you go over. For an AC car, the best going rate is about ₹1000. Agents at the Apollo Bunder ticket booths near the Gateway of India can arrange a non-AC Maruti with driver for a half-day of sightseeing for ₹1000 (going as far as Mahalaxmi and Malabar Hill). Regular taxi drivers often accept a similar price. Metro Mumbai’s US$8.17 billion metro project has broken ground. The Colaba–Bandra–Airport line will most benefit tourists, but is several years away from completion. Motorcycle Allibhai Premji Tyrewalla (Map p724; www. premjis.com; 205/207 Dr D Bhadkamkar Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat), around for almost 100

TAXI TROUBLE We won’t name names, but Mumbaikar taxis and rickshaws might occasionally like to take advantage of foreign faces. If you find yourself in either with an old-fashion meter (outside on the lefthand dash), you are vulnerable. Print out handy conversion charts from the Mumbai Traffic Police (www.traﬃcpo licemumbai.org/Tariﬀcard_Auto_taxi_form. htm) – end of discussion (until the next price hike).

Taxi & Autorickshaw Every second car on Mumbai’s streets seems to be a black-and-yellow Premier taxi (India’s version of a 1950s Fiat). They’re the most convenient way to get around the city, and in South Mumbai drivers almost always use the meter without prompting. Autorickshaws are confined to the suburbs north of Mahim Creek. Drivers don’t always know the names of Mumbai’s streets (especially new names) – the best way to find something is by using nearby landmarks. A 2010 fare increase means taxi meters start at ₹16 during the day (₹20 after midnight) for the first 1.6km and ₹10 per kilometre after this (₹12 after midnight). If you get a taxi with the old-fashion meters, the fare will be roughly 16 times the amount shown. The minimum autorickshaw fare is ₹11. Train Mumbai has an eﬃcient but overcrowded suburban train network. There are three main lines, making it easy to navigate. The most useful service operates from Churchgate heading north to stations such as Charni Rd (for Girgaum Chowpatty), Mumbai Central, Mahalaxmi (for the Dhobi Ghat; p729), Vile Parle (for the domestic airport), Andheri (for the international airport) and Borivali (for Sanjay Gandhi National Park). Other suburban lines operate from CST to Byculla (for Veermata Jijabai Bhonsle Udyan, formerly Victoria Gardens), Dadar and as far as Neral (for Matheran). Trains run from 4am till 1am. From Churchgate, 2nd-/1st-class fares are ₹4/41 to Mumbai Central, ₹7/78 to Vile Parle or Andheri, and ₹9/104 to Borivali. ‘Tourist tickets’ permit unlimited travel in 2nd/1st class for one (₹50/170), three (₹90/330) or five (₹105/390) days. Avoid rush hours when trains are jam-packed, even in 1st class; watch your valuables, and gals, stick to the ladies-only carriages.

755

8 MUMBAI (BOMBAY ) 8

CST & Crawford Market

years, sells new and used motorcycles with a guaranteed buy-back option. For two- to threeweek ‘rental’ periods you’ll still have to pay the full cost of the bike upfront. The company prefers to deal with longer-term schemes of two months or more, which work out cheaper anyway. A used 150cc or 225cc Hero Honda Karizma costs ₹25,000 to ₹80,000, with a buy-back price of around 60% after three months (higher-cc Enfields are sometimes available). A smaller bike (100cc to 180cc) starts at ₹25,000. The company can also arrange shipment of bikes overseas (around ₹24,000 to the UK).

SANJAY GANDHI NATIONAL PARK

MUMBAI (BOMBAY ) G R E AT E R M U M B A I

It’s hard to believe that within 90 minutes of the teeming metropolis you can be surrounded by this 104-sq-km protected tropical forest (%28866449; adult/child ₹30/15, 2-/4-wheeler vehicle ₹15/50; h7.30am-6pm). Here, bright flora, birds, butterflies and elusive wild leopards replace pollution and crowds, all surrounded by forested hills on the city’s northern edge. Urban development and shantytowns try to muscle in on the fringes of this wild region, but its status as a national park has allowed it to stay green and calm. In addition to well-worn trekking trails to Shilonda waterfall and Vihar and Tulsi lakes, there is a lion and tiger safari and Kanheri caves to occupy day-trippers escaping the Mumbai mayhem. Inside the main northern entrance is an information centre with a small exhibition on the park’s wildlife. The best time to see birds is October to April and butterflies August to November.

GREATER MUMBAI Elephanta Island In the middle of Mumbai Harbour, 9km northeast of the Gateway of India, the rockcut temples on Elephanta Island (http://asi.

nic.in/; Indian/foreigner ₹10/250; hcaves 9am5.30pm Tue-Sun) are a Unesco World Heri-

tage Site and worth crossing the waters for. Home to a labyrinth of cave-temples carved into the basalt rock of the island, the artwork represents some of the most impressive temple carving in all of India. The main Shiva-dedicated temple is an intriguing latticework of courtyards, halls, pillars and shrines, with the magnum opus a 6m-tall statue of Sadhashiva – depicting a threefaced Shiva as the destroyer, creator and preserver of the universe. The enormous central bust of Shiva, its eyes closed in eternal contemplation, may be the most serene sight you witness in India. The temples are thought to have been created between AD 450 and 750, when the island was known as Gharapuri (Place of Caves). The Portuguese renamed it Elephanta because of a large stone elephant near the shore, which collapsed in 1814 and

was moved by the British to Mumbai’s Jijamata Udyan. The English-language guide service (free with deluxe boat tickets) is worthwhile; tours depart every hour on the half-hour from the ticket booth. Beware of touts that meet you at the jetty and try to convince you to employ their services – the included English guide will met you at the entrance to the temples. Ask for government-issued ID if in doubt. If you explore independently, pick up Pramod Chandra’s A Guide to the Elephanta Caves from the stalls lining the stairway. There’s also a small museum on-site, which has some informative pictorial panels on the origin of the caves.

8 Getting There & Away

Launches (economy/deluxe ₹105/130) head to Elephanta Island from the Gateway of India every half-hour from 9am to 3.30pm Tuesday to Sunday. Buy tickets at the booths lining Apollo Bunder. The voyage takes just over an hour. The ferries dock at the end of a concrete pier, from where you can walk (around three minutes) or take the miniature train (₹10) to the stairway (admission ₹5) leading up to the caves. It’s lined with handicraft stalls and patrolled by pesky monkeys. Wear good shoes.

Maharashtra Nasik . . . . . . . . . . . . . 760 Aurangabad . . . . . . . .764 Ellora . . . . . . . . . . . . . .769 Ajanta . . . . . . . . . . . . .772 Lonar Meteorite Crater. . . . . . . . . . . . . .776 Nagpur. . . . . . . . . . . . .776 Matheran . . . . . . . . . . 780 Lonavla . . . . . . . . . . . .782 Karla & Bhaja Caves 783 Pune . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .783 Mahabaleshwar . . . . . 791

Why Go? India’s third-largest (and second-most populous) state, Maharashtra is smattered with lazy beaches, lofty mountains, virgin forests and historic hot spots, all complemented by the incredible sights, sounds, smells and tastes of India. Starting up north around Nasik, the state yields a curious blend of spirituality, meditation and chardonnay. Next comes cosmopolitan Pune, a city as famous for its sex guru as its food-and-beverage circuit. Slip westward and you are rewarded with a rash of golden sands, crumbling forts and emerald forests along the lonely shores of the Arabian Sea. For an oﬀ-beat experience, head east to spy tigers prowling in dense tropical jungle, or saunter south for overwhelming temples, zany palaces and brawny action in wrestling pits. Sounds like your kind of melting pot? Dive right in.

Best Places to Eat » Malaka Spice (p788) » Biso (p782)

When to Go

» Khyber (p762)

Nasik

» Prem’s (p788)

40/104

» The Grapevine (p792)

Best Places to Stay » Verandah in the Forest (p781)

» Hotel Sunderban (p787) » Lemon Tree (p765)

» Beyond (see boxed text, p762) » Osho Meditation Resort Guesthouse (p787)

°C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800 24/600

20/68

16/400 0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Jan It’s party time in Nasik’s wineries, marked by grape harvesting and crushing galas.

Sep The frenzied and energetic Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations reach fever pitch.

Dec Winter’s a lovely time for the secluded beaches of Murud, Ganpatipule and Tarkarli.

FORTS GALORE

Top Yoga & Meditation Centres

In terms of medieval forts and citadels, Maharashtra comes second perhaps only to Rajasthan. The best of the lot is Daulatabad Fort (p768), a bastion that once played a cameo as India’s capital. Equally intriguing is Janjira (p778), a 12th century island fortress that was once an outpost for the seafaring African traders. Best of all are the many forts closely associated with the life of Chhatrapati Shivaji, including the Raigad Fort (p792), and Shivneri Fort (p791), where the Maratha leader was born.

The Vipassana International Academy in Igatpuri (p763) has long been a destination for those wishing to put mind over matter through an austere form of Buddhist meditation. The boundaries of yoga, on the other hand, are constantly pushed at the Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute in Pune (p787) and the Kaivalyadhama Yoga Hospital in Lonavla (p782). For a more lavish and indulgent form of spiritual engagement, there’s the superluxurious Osho International Meditation Resort in Pune (p785), where one can meditate in style, while flexing a few muscles in the unique game of ‘zennis’ (Zen tennis).

Fast Facts » Population: 112.4 million » Area: 307,690 sq km » Capital: Mumbai

» Main languages: Marathi, Hindi, English

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹1000, $$ ₹1000 to ₹4000, $$$ above ₹4000

Money Matters Maharashtra is among the most economically well-oﬀ states in India. Its per-capita income is 60% higher than the national average.

Resources » Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC; www.maharashtra tourism.gov.in)

» Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (MSRTC; www.msrtc.gov.in)

DON’T MISS The ancient caves of Ellora and Ajanta are among India’s top architectural and artistic wonders. Rock art and cave paintings reach sublime levels of beauty and perfection at these World Heritage Sites.

Top Festivals » Naag Panchami (Aug, Pune, p783, Kolhapur, p793) A traditional snake-worshipping festival.

» Ganesh Chaturthi (Sep, Pune, p783) Celebrated with fervour all across Maharashtra; Pune goes particularly hysteric in honour of the elephant-headed deity.

» Dussehra (Sep & Oct, Nagpur, p776, Aurangabad, p764) A Hindu festival, but it also marks the Buddhist celebration of the anniversary of the famous humanist and Dalit leader BR Ambedkar’s conversion to Buddhism.

» Ellora Ajanta Aurangabad Festival (Nov, Aurangabad, p764) A cultural festival bringing together the best classical and folk performers from across the region, while promoting a number of artistic traditions and handicrafts on the side. » Kalidas Festival (Nov, Nagpur, p776) Commemorates the literary genius of legendary poet Kalidas through spirited music, dance and theatre sessions.

» Sawai Gandharva Sangeet Mahotsav (Dec, Pune, p783) An extravaganza where you can see unforgettable performances by some of the heftiest names in Indian classical music.

Surat

Thana

Konk

an C

oast

s Chat

To Tarkarli & Malvan (80km); Vengurla (90km); Panaji (180km) To Kolhapur (5km) Panhala Bijapur Miraj

1 Drop your jaw at the awe-inspiring beauty of the monumental Kailasa Temple, the jewel in Ellora Cavesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; crown (p769)

or sauvignon, and lose yourself

3 Sip on a glass of zinfandel

2 Be mesmerised by antique Buddhist art in the ancient cave galleries of Ajanta (p772)

ri R

na er

Riv

Gulbarga

4 Gallop on a horse to Echo Point, or simply outrun the toy train chugging up the hill in Matheran (p780)

ish

KARNATAKA

Latur

in a holy confluence of faith and ritual in Nasik (p760)

Lonar Lonar Meteorite Crater

iver Parbhani Nanded

Sholapur

Paithan G oda va

Jalna

Fardapur

Khuldabad

Ajanta

Chikhaldara

Hyderabad

Secunderabad

7 Learn more about Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diverse cultures and traditions at the fantastic museums of Pune (p783)

Kondagaon

MADHYA PRADESH

50 km 30 miles

Raipur

around the primordial Lonar Meteorite Crater (p776)

Warangal

Chandrapur

0 0

Vijayawada

National Park

Tadoba-Andhari Reserve

astronomy skills while ambling

6 Brush up on your

Moharli

Bhandara To Ramtek Navagaon (40km)

ANDHRA PRADESH

Nizamabad

Wardha

Paunar

Nagpur

Sevagram

5 Rediscover the Gandhian way of life at the Sevagram Ashram in Sevagram (p777)

Melghat Amravati Wildlife Sanctuary

Buldhana Akola

Burhanpur Bhusawal Jalgaon

Tapi River

Daulatabad Aurangabad Shirdi

Ellora

Manmad

Dhulia

Amalner

Malegaon

Maharashtra Highlights

Ratnagiri

Ganpatipule

MUMBAI (BOMBAY)

Ghoti

Bhandardara

Igatpuri

Nasik

GUJARAT

To Ahmedabad (30km)

Trimbak

Kalyan Matheran Shivneri Ahmednagar Karla Junnar Caves Mumbai-Pune Expwy Karjat Mandva Mumbai-Pune Hwy 211 4 Alibag Lonavla Bhaja Chaul Pune Roha Caves Kashid Sinhagad Indapur Murud Barsi Raigad Deccan Janjira Plateau Diveagar Pratapgad Harihareshwar Mahad 9 Panchgani Mahabaleshwar RABIAN Satara Chiplun Pandhapur SEA

Neral

Daman

Gulf of Khambhat

tern

MAHAR ASHTR A

Wes

759

760

History

MAHAR ASHTR A N O R T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

Maharashtra was given its political and ethnic identity by Maratha leader Chhatrapati Shivaji (1627–80), who lorded over the Deccan plateau and much of western India from his stronghold at Raigad. Still highly respected today among Maharashtrans, Shivaji is credited for instilling a strong, independent spirit among the region’s people, as well as establishing Maharashtra as a dominant player in the power relations of medieval India. From the early 18th century, the state was under the administration of a succession of ministers called the Peshwas who ruled until 1819, ceding thereafter to the British. After Independence (1947), western Maharashtra and Gujarat were joined to form Bombay state, only to be separated again in 1960, when modern Maharashtra was formed with the exclusion of Gujarati-speaking areas and with Mumbai (Bombay) as its capital.

8 Information

Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC; Map p730; % 02222845678; www. maharashtratourism.gov.in; Madame Cama Rd; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) has its head office in Mumbai. Most major towns throughout the state have offices, too, but they’re generally only useful for booking MTDC accommodation and tours. While Sunday is not a business day, many government offices also remain closed on alternate Saturdays.

8 Getting There & Away

Mumbai (p752) is Maharashtra’s main transport hub, although Pune (p790), Jalgaon (p776) and Aurangabad (p768) are also major players.

8 Getting Around

Because the state is so large, internal flights (eg Pune to Nagpur) can help speed up your explorations. Airfares vary widely on a daily basis. AC Indica taxis are readily available, too, and charge around ₹7 per kilometre. For long trips, factor in a minimum daily distance of 250km, and a daily driver’s allowance of ₹100.

HOTEL TAXES In Maharashtra, hotel rooms below ₹1200 are charged a 4% tax, while those priced higher are slapped a 10% tax. Some hotels may also charge an extra 10% expenditure tax. At popular tourist getaways, tariﬀs can shoot up manifold over weekends, and holidays such as Diwali, Holi, Christmas and New Year.

The Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (MSRTC; www.msrtc.gov.in) has a superb semideluxe bus network spanning all major towns, with the more remote places connected by ordinary buses. Some private operators have luxury Volvo services between major cities. Neeta Tours & Travels (% 02228902666; www.neetabus.in) is highly recommended.

NORTHERN MAHARASHTRA Nasik % 0253 / POP 1.2 MILLION / ELEV 565M

Located on the banks of the holy Godavari River, Nasik (or Nashik) derives its name from the episode in the Ramayana where Lakshmana, Rama’s brother, hacked oﬀ the nasika (nose) of Ravana’s sister, the demon enchantress Surpanakha. True to its name, the town is an absorbing place, and you can’t walk far without discovering yet another exotic temple or colourful bathing ghat that references the Hindu epic. Adding to Nasik’s spiritual flavour is the fact that the town serves as a base for pilgrims visiting Trimbak (33km west; p764) and Shirdi (79km southeast), once home to the original Sai Baba (see the boxed text, p764). Every 12 years, Nasik also plays host to the grand Kumbh Mela, the largest religious gathering on earth that shuttles between four Indian religious centres on a triennial basis. The next congregation in Nasik is due in 2015 (see p1103). Mahatma Gandhi Rd, better known as MG Rd, a few blocks north of the Old Central bus stand, is Nasik’s commercial hub. The temple-lined Godavari flows through town just east of here.

1 Sights Ramkund

GHAT

This bathing ghat in the heart of Nasik’s old quarter sees hundreds of Hindu pilgrims arriving daily to bathe, pray and – because the waters provide moksha (liberation of the soul) – to immerse the ashes of departed friends and family. For a tourist, it’s an intense cultural experience, heightened by the presence of a colourful market downstream. It’s OK to take photographs, but try not to be intrusive.

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Godavari River 1

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Vakil Wadi Rd 8

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Golf Club

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Temples

‚

HINDU TEMPLES

A short walk uphill east of Ramkund is the Kala Rama Temple, the city’s holiest shrine. Dating to 1794 and containing unusual black-stone representations of Rama, Sita and Lakshmana, the temple stands on the site where Lakshmana sliced oﬀ Surpanakha’s nose. Nearby is the Gumpha Panchavati, where Sita supposedly hid while being assailed by the evil Ravana. The ramshackle Sundar Narayan Temple, at the western end of Victoria Bridge, contains three black Vishnu deities, while the modern Muktidham Temple, about 7km southeast of the city near the train station, has 18 muralled chapters of the Bhagavad Gita lining its interior walls. All the temples are open from 6am to 9pm.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Panchavati HOTEL $$ (www.panchavatihotels.com; 430 Chandak Wadi, Vakil Wadi Rd) To save yourself the hassle of scout-

ing for a comfy bed in town, head straight for this excellent complex, comprising four hotels (and a few popular restaurants) that cover every pocket from budget to top-end, and deliver each rupee’s worth. Kicking oﬀ at the cheaper end is Panchavati Guest House (%2578771; s/d from ₹500/600; a), which has

sik d Na bai R m Mu C

Dwarka Circle

Ò T NH50

Nasik æ Sights 1 Gumpha Panchavati............................D2 2 Kala Rama Temple ..............................D2 3 Market ..................................................C2 4 Ramkund .............................................. C1 5 Sundar Narayan Temple..................... C1 ÿ Sleeping 6 Hotel Abhishek..................................... C1 7 Hotel Samrat........................................B2 8 Panchavati ........................................... B1 ú Eating 9 Annapoorna Lunch Home...................B2 Khyber .......................................... (see 8) 10 Talk of the Town ..................................B3 Transport 11 New Central Bus Stand.......................B3 12 Old Central Bus Stand.........................B2 13 Railway Reservation Office.................A2

slightly cramped but clean rooms and prompt service. A more inviting option is Pancha-

vati Yatri (%2578782; s/d from ₹1100/1350;

a),

761

which features excellent rooms with hot showers, spot-on service, cooperative staﬀ and an in-house health club. Hotel Panchavati

NORTHERN MAHAR ASHTR E EIPNIGN G & E AT I N G MAHAR ASHTR A N S LAES EI K P I N G A& SELAT

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1 km 0.5 miles

762

GRAPES OF NASIK

MAHAR ASHTR A N O R T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

From wimpy raisins to full-bodied wines, the grapes of Nasik have come a long way. The town had been growing grapes meant for regular consumption since time immemorial. However, it was only in the early ’90s that a couple of entrepreneurs realised that Nasik, with its fertile soils and cool climate, boasted conditions similar to Bordeaux. In 1997 industry pioneer Sula Vineyards (%09970090010; www.sulawines.com; Govardhan, Gangapur– Savargaon Rd; h11am-10pm) fearlessly invested in a crop of sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc, and the first batch of domestic wines hit the shelves in 2000. It hasn’t looked back. These days, the wine list in most of Nasik’s wineries stretch to include zinfandel, shiraz, merlot and cabernet as well as a few reserves and champagnes, and most of these drops can be sampled first-hand by visiting one of the estates. York Winery (%02532230700; www.yorkwinery.com, Gangavarhe, Gangapur–Savargaon Rd; h3pm-10pm) oﬀers wine-tasting sessions (₹100) in a top-floor room that has scenic views of the lake and surrounding hills. Sula Vineyards, located 15km west of Nasik, rounds oﬀ a vineyard tour with a wine-tasting session (₹150) that features six of its best. It’s also possible to stay at some wineries. For an extremely indulging experience, head 3km inland to Beyond (%09970090010; www.sulawines.com; d from ₹6000; as), an enchanting luxury resort set by a lake bordered by rolling hills, where you can roam the landscape on bicycles, go kayaking on the still waters or laze the hours away at the spa. Or you could try Chateau Indage, another of Nasik’s wine biggies, that operates Tiger Hill Vineyards Resort & Spa (%02532336274; www.indagegroup.com; Vilholi, Mumbai–Agra NH3; d from ₹3500; a), a stylish getaway-cum-wine bar 10km south of town, where you can pair its signature chardonnay with a relaxing grapeseed-oil massage. During harvest season (January to March), some wineries also organise grapecrushing festivals, marked by unbridled revelry. Events are usually advertised on the wineries’ websites.

(%2575771; s/d from ₹1299/1499; a), fronting the complex, is pricier with classy rooms; it caters largely to business travellers. Last of all is the sumptuous Panchavati Millionaire (%2312318; s/d ₹1600/1950; a), a moody aﬀair where lavish rooms are complemented by cosy sit-in areas that are perfect for a steaming morning cuppa. Hotel Samrat HOTEL $$ (%2577211; www.hotelsamratnasik.com; Old Agra Rd; s/d from ₹900/1175; a) You’ll find little to

complain about at the Samrat. Inviting rooms have large windows, are tastefully decorated in brown and beige, with pine-themed furniture thrown in for good measure. Located right next to the bus stand, its spick-andspan vegetarian restaurant is open 24 hours, making it popular as a refuelling stop.

Hotel Abhishek HOTEL $ (%2514201; www.hotelabhishek.com; Panchavati Karanja; s/d ₹345/450, with AC ₹600/675; a)

Located oﬀ the Panchavati Karanja roundabout, this pleasant budget option packs hot showers, TV and appetising vegetarian food into its well-kept, value-for-money rooms. A few minutes’ walk uphill from the Godavari River, it sits amid all the ritualistic action,

and is a vantage point from which to be totally overwhelmed by sacred India at its noisiest but best. Ginger HOTEL $$ (%6616333; www.gingerhotels.com; Plot P20, Satpur MIDC, Trimbak Rd; s/d ₹1799/2299; aW)

In another town, Ginger could easily have been our top choice. In Nasik, however, it loses out to its rivals mainly due to its location, which is a couple of kilometres west of the central district. Primarily a business hotel, it features do-it-yourself service, but there are luxe features and conveniences aplenty, and the rooms are as fresh as the autumn breeze.

oKhyber

AFGHANI $$

(Panchavati Hotel Complex; mains ₹180-230)

Taste one succulent morsel of any of Khyber’s signature dishes and you might start wondering if you are actually in Kandahar. The Khyber is, without doubt, one of Nasik’s top-notch fine-dining establishments, and it works up a great ambience (soft lighting, sparkling glassware, teak furniture) to go with its wide range of delectable oﬀerings. The murgh shaan-e-khyber, juicy pieces of

chicken marinated with herbs and cooked in a creamy gravy, is not to be missed. Annapoorna Lunch Home FAST FOOD $ (MG Rd; mains ₹50) This fast-moving joint

has all the usual quick eats rolling endlessly oﬀ its culinary assembly line. No surprises on oﬀer, but it would be hard to find fault with the pan-fresh food that’s cheaper than peanuts. Peak lunch hours are a bad time to walk in, as you might have trouble finding a seat.

Central bus stand, this place attracts more tipplers than eaters, although that’s no indication of the quality of its food. An upscale place comprising dining rooms at split levels, it oﬀers a good selection of coastal, North Indian and Chinese dishes, best washed down with a refreshing pint of lager.

8 Information

Cyber Café (Vakil Wadi Rd; per hr ₹20; h10am-10pm) Near Panchavati Hotel Complex. MTDC tourist office (%2570059; T/I, Golf Club, Old Agra Rd; h10.30am-5.30pm MonSat) About 1km south of the Old Central bus stand. State Bank of India (Old Agra Rd; h11am5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-1pm Sat) Opposite the Old Central bus stand. Changes cash and travellers cheques and has an ATM. HDFC Bank (MG Rd) Has a 24-hour ATM.

8 Getting There & Around

Bus Nasik’s Old Central bus stand (CBS) is useful for those going to Trimbak (₹27, 45 minutes). A block south, the New Central bus stand has services to Aurangabad (semideluxe ₹199, 4½ hours) and Pune (semideluxe/deluxe ₹213/360, 4½ hours). South of town, the Mahamarg bus stand has services to Mumbai (semideluxe ₹211, four hours) and Shirdi (₹90, 2½ hours). Private bus agents based near the CBS run buses to Pune, Mumbai, Aurangabad and Ahmedabad. Fares are marginally lower than those charged on state buses. Note that buses depart from Old Agra Rd, and that most Mumbai-bound buses terminate at Dadar in Mumbai. Train The Nasik Rd train station is 8km southeast of the town centre, but a useful railway reservation oﬃce (1st fl, Commissioner’s Oﬃce, Canada Corner; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) is 500m west of the CBS. The Panchavati Express is the fastest

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Around Nasik BHANDARDARA

The picturesque village of Bhandardara is nestled deep in the folds of the Sahyadris, about 70km from Nasik. A little-visited place surrounded by craggy mountains, it remains one of Maharashtra’s best-kept travel secrets and, with an absence of checkbox travellers, makes a fantastic getaway from the bustle of urban India. However, you don’t need to be a rocket scientist to figure out that the scene might be very diﬀerent in the near future – visit while you can. Most of Bhandardara’s habitation is thrown around the spectacular Arthur Lake, a horseshoe-shaped reservoir fed by the waters of the Pravara River. The lake is barraged on one side by the imposing Wilson Dam, a colonial-era structure dating back to 1910. If you like walking, consider a hike to the summit of Mt Kalsubai, which at 1646m was once used as an observation point by the Marathas. Alternately, you could hike to the ruins of the Ratangad Fort, another of Shivaji’s erstwhile strongholds, which has wonderful views of the surrounding ranges. The charming Anandvan Resort (%9920311221; www.anandvanresorts.com; d from ₹5500; a), an ecoresort with a choice of

comfy cottages and villas overlooking Arthur Lake, allows you to camp in style. The

MTDC Holiday Resort (%02424257032; d from ₹1200; a), located further down the hill,

is also a good place to spend the night. Bhandardara can be accessed by taking a local bus from Nasik’s Mahamarg bus stand to Ghoti (₹30, one hour), from where an autorickshaw ride costs ₹60. A taxi from Nasik can also drop you at your resort for about ₹1200. IGATPURI

Heard of vipassana, haven’t you? Well head to Igatpuri to see where (and how) it all happens. Located about 44km south of Nasik, this village is home to the headquarters of the world’s largest vipassana meditation institution, the Vipassana

International Academy (%02553244076; www.dhamma.org), which institutionalises

NORTHERN MAHAR ASHTR MAHAR ASHTR A A 8 RO U N D NAA 8S I K

Talk of the Town MULTICUISINE $$ (Old Agra Rd; mains ₹150-180) Next to the New

train to Mumbai (2nd class/chair ₹75/263, 3½ hours, 7am), and the Tapovan Express is the only convenient direct train to Aurangabad (2nd class/chair ₹66/233, 3½ hours, 9.50am). An autorickshaw to the station costs about ₹70.

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this strict form of meditation first taught by Gautama Buddha in the 6th century BC and reintroduced to India by teacher SN Goenka in the ’60s. Ten-day residential courses (advance bookings compulsory) are held throughout the year, though authorities warn that it requires rigorous discipline, and dropping out midway isn’t encouraged. Basic accommodation, food and meditation instruction are provided free of charge, but donations upon completion of the course are accepted.

MAHAR ASHTR A N O R T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

TRIMBAK

The moody Trimbakeshwar Temple stands in the centre of Trimbak, 33km west of Nasik. It’s one of India’s most sacred temples, containing a jyoti linga, one of the 12 most important shrines to Shiva. Only Hindus are allowed in, but non-Hindus can peek into the courtyard. Nearby, the waters of the Godavari River flow into the Gangadwar bathing tank, where all are welcome to wash away their earthly sins. You also have the option of a four-hour return hike up the Brahmagiri Hill, where you can see the Godavari dribble forth from a spring. Regular buses run from the CBS in Nasik to Trimbak (₹26, 45 minutes).

Aurangabad % 0240 / POP 892,400 / ELEV 515M

Aurangabad lay low through most of the tumultuous history of medieval India and only hit the spotlight when the last Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb, made the city his capital from 1653 to 1707. With the emperor’s death came the city’s rapid decline, but the brief period of glory saw the building of some fascinating monuments, including a Taj Mahal replica (Bibi-qa-Maqbara), that continue to draw a steady trickle of visitors today. These

monuments, alongside other historic relics such as a group of ancient Buddhist caves, make Aurangabad a good choice for a fairly decent weekend excursion. But the real reason for traipsing all the way here is because the town is an excellent base for exploring the World Heritage Sites of Ellora and Ajanta. Silk fabrics were once Aurangabad’s chief revenue generator, and the town is still known across the world for its hand-woven Himroo and Paithani saris (see Shopping, p767). The train station, cheap hotels and restaurants are clumped together in the south of the town along Station Rd East and Station Rd West. The MSRTC bus stand is 1.5km to the north of the train station. Northeast of the bus stand is the buzzing old town with its narrow streets and Muslim quarters. Interestingly, Aurangabad also has a sizeable Buddhist community who follow in the footsteps of eminent humanist and social leader BR Ambedkar, and celebrate his conversion to Buddhism during Dussehra.

1 Sights

Bibi-qa-Maqbara MONUMENT (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-10pm) Built

by Aurangzeb’s son Azam Khan in 1679 as a mausoleum for his mother Rabia-ud-Daurani, Bibi-qa-Maqbara is widely known as the ‘poor man’s Taj’. With its four minarets flanking a central onion-domed mausoleum, the white structure bears striking resemblance to the original Taj Mahal in Agra. It is much less grand, however, and apart from having a few marble adornments, most of the structure is finished in lime mortar. Apparently the prince had conceived the entire mausoleum in white marble like the Taj, but was

SAI BABA OF SHIRDI His iconic status as a national guru is legendary. And his divinity, to some, is unquestionable. But Sai Baba, for all his popularity, remains one of India’s most enigmatic figures. No one knows where he came from, what his real name was, or when he was born. Having stepped out of an obscure childhood, he first appeared in the town of Shirdi near Nasik around the age of 16 (in the mid-1800s). There, he advocated religious tolerance, which he practised by sleeping alternately in a mosque and a Hindu temple as well as praying in them both. The masses took to him right away, and by the time Sai Baba died in 1918, the many miracles attributed to him had seen him gather a large following. Today, his temple complex in Shirdi draws an average of 40,000 pilgrims a day. Interestingly, in Andhra Pradesh, another widely respected holy man Sathya Sai Baba (1926–2011) claimed to be the reincarnation of the original Sai Baba (see p918).

thwarted by his frugal father who opposed his extravagant idea of draining state coﬀers for the purpose. However, despite the use of cheaper material and the obvious weathering, it’s a sight far more impressive than the average gravestone. The central onion dome was being restored during research, and should be back in its untarnished glory by the time you visit. Aurangabad Caves CAVE (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk) Archi-

Panchakki GARDEN (Indian/foreigner ₹5/20; h6.15am-9.15pm) The

garden complex of Panchakki, literally meaning ‘water wheel’, takes its name from the hydro-mill which, in its day, was considered a marvel of engineering. Driven by water carried through earthen pipes from the river 6km away, it was once used to grind grain for pilgrims. You can still see the humble machine at work today. Baba Shah Muzaﬀar, a Sufi saint and spiritual guide to Aurangzeb, is buried here. His memorial garden is flanked by a series of fish-filled tanks, near a large shade-giving banyan tree. Shivaji Museum MUSEUM (Dr Ambedkar Rd; admission ₹5; h10.30am-6pm Fri-Wed) This simple museum is dedicated to

the life of the Maratha hero Shivaji. Its collection includes a 500-year-old chain-mail suit and a copy of the Quran handwritten by Aurangzeb.

T Tours

Classic Tours (p768) and the Indian Tourism Development Corporation (ITDC; %2331143) both run daily bus tours to the

Ajanta and Ellora Caves. The trip to Ajanta Caves costs ₹400 and the tour to Ellora Caves, ₹270; prices include a guide but don’t

4 Sleeping oLemon Tree

HOTEL $$$

(%6603030; www.lemontreehotels.com; R7/2 Chikalthana, Airport Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹3499/4499; aWs) Fresh as lemonade, this

swish, all-new boutique hotel (spread lazily around what we thought was the best swimming pool in the Deccan) makes you want to stay back in Aurangabad even after you’re done sightseeing. The rooms are done up in vivid tropical shades oﬀset against snowwhite walls, and are super snug to boot. Adding a dash of class is the prim Citrus Café, and the Slounge bar, where you can down a drink while hustling a fellow traveller in to a game of pool. It’s one place you’re sure to have a nice stay.

MTDC Holiday Resort HOTEL $$ (%2331513; Station Rd East; d from ₹1100, with AC from ₹1300; a) Set around a lovely lawn and

shaded by robust canopies, this curiously disorganised hotel is one of the better stateowned operations in Maharashtra. The large residential blocks have recently received a facelift, and the rooms, though lacking in character, are spacious and tidy. Service is prompt, there’s also a well-stocked bar, a decent restaurant and a couple of travel agencies and souvenir shops on-site. Come between March and July and you will pay 20% less.

Hotel Panchavati HOTEL $ (%2328755; www.hotelpanchavati.com; Station Rd West; s/d ₹525/625, with AC ₹775/900; a) This

place is fast establishing itself as one of the more reputed hotels in Aurangabad (quite a turnaround from the days when it took some serious stick from travellers). Generally packed to the gills with guests, it oﬀers a range of compact but thoughtfully appointed rooms, with comfortable beds and patterned rugs on the floor that match the

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NORTHERN MAHAR A ATO MAHAR ASHTR A AU TO U RASHTR A RS NGAB D URS

tecturally speaking, the Aurangabad Caves aren’t a patch on Ellora or Ajanta, but they do throw some light on early Buddhist architecture and, above all, make for a quiet and peaceful outing. Carved out of the hillside in the 6th or 7th century AD, the 10 caves, comprising two groups 1km apart (retain your ticket for entry into both sets), are all Buddhist. Cave 7, with its sculptures of scantily clad lovers in suggestive positions, is particularly arty. The caves are about 2km north of Bibi-qa-Maqbara. A return autorickshaw from the mausoleum shouldn’t cost more than ₹150.

cover admission fees. The Ellora tour also includes all the other major Aurangabad sites along with Daulatabad Fort and Aurangzeb’s tomb in Khuldabad, which is a lot to swallow in a day. All tours start and end at the MTDC Holiday Resort. During quiet periods, operators often pool resources and pack their clients into a single bus. For private tours, try Ashoka Tours & Travels (p768), which owns a decent fleet of taxis and can personalise your trip around Aurangabad and to Ajanta and Ellora.

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upholstery and pastel walls. The managers are eﬃcient and friendly and the hotel sits easily at the top of the value-for-money class. VITS HOTEL $$$ (%2350701; www.vitshotelaurangabad.com; Station Rd East; s/d incl breakfast ₹5500/6500; aWs) Located close to the train station,

snazzy-lobbied VITS goes by the motto ‘Guest. Rest. Best’. What that basically means is you have a delightfully luxurious room to flop about in, packed with all the usual luxe features you’d find in top-range

hotels. A branch of the Four Fountains chain of spas located within the hotel considerably ups the indulgence quotient. Hotel Nandanvan HOTEL $ (%2338916; Station Rd East; s/d ₹450/550, with AC ₹650/750; a) Unusually large but clean

rooms are on oﬀer at this well-run hotel, set in a prime location close to Kailash Restaurant. The real dealmakers, of course, are the loos, which are cleaner than those of most other budget options in town. The noise coming oﬀ the main road might get to you at times, though.

Aurangabad æ Sights 1 Bibi-qa-Maqbara.................................. B1 2 Panchakki.............................................A2 3 Shivaji Museum ................................... D1

ú Eating China Town .................................. (see 4) Kailash ...........................................(see 5) 10 Prashanth.............................................B5 11 Swad Veg Restaurant..........................C4 12 Tandoor ................................................B5 Information Ashoka Tours & Travels.............. (see 6) Classic Tours ................................(see 7) MTDC Office..................................(see 7) 13 State Bank of India ..............................C4 Transport 14 MSRTC Bus Stand...............................B3 15 Private Bus Agents..............................B4

Hotel Amarpreet HOTEL $$ (%6621133; www.amarpreethotel.com; Jalna Rd; s/d from ₹2800/3600; ai) We have to hand

it to Amarpreet for trying hard. The rooms might trigger the occasional hunch that you’d have got more bang for your buck elsewhere, but the all-smiles management makes up for it with polite service, excellent housekeeping and a great selection of food and booze. Ask for a room in the western wing, with superb views of Bibi-qa-Maqbara. Tourist’s Home HOTEL $ (%2337212; Station Rd West; d ₹400, with AC ₹1000; a) This one’s as basic as it gets. Although re-

cently given a makeover, most rooms here are barebones, but well-ventilated. There are quite a few rules and regulations to be adhered to, going by the noticeboard at the entrance, but the management is friendly. And it’s close to the train station, which is a positive.

5 Eating

China Town CHINESE $$ (Hotel Amarpreet, Jalna Rd; mains ₹180-200) For a

place like Aurangabad, this in-house restau-

767

Swad Veg Restaurant INDIAN $ (Kanchan Chamber, Station Rd East; mains ₹7080) This place has come a long way since its

formative years, and now oﬀers a fantastic range of Indian snacks and staples – plus a few pizzas, ice creams and shakes – in its prim and clean basement premises. Try the Gujarati thali (₹110), an endless train of dishes that diners gobble up under the benevolent gaze of patron saint swami Yogiraj Hanstirth, whose portrait illuminates a far wall of the restaurant. Tandoor NORTH INDIAN $$ (Shyam Chambers, Station Rd East; mains ₹160180) Oﬀering fine tandoori dishes and fla-

voursome North Indian veg and non-veg options in a weirdly Pharaonic atmosphere, Tandoor is one of Aurangabad’s top standalone restaurants. A few Chinese dishes are also on oﬀer, but patrons clearly prefer the dishes coming out of, well, the tandoor.

Kailash INDIAN $ (Station Rd East; mains ₹70-80) Adjacent to

Hotel Nandanvan, this busy pure-veg restaurant is a smart glass-and-chrome place where you can sit back after a long day out and wolf down a variety of local delicacies brought to your table by smartly dressed waiters.

Prashanth INDIAN $ (Siddharth Arcade, Station Rd East; mains ₹70-90)

Located near the railway station bang opposite the MTDC Holiday Resort, Prashanth has consistently won accolades from travellers for its delightful vegetarian-only dishes, epic fruit juices and enjoyable patio setting. Eat your heart out.

Shopping

Hand-woven Himroo material is a traditional Aurangabad speciality (though people have diﬀering opinions regarding its aesthetic appeal). Made from cotton, silk and silver threads, it was developed as a cheaper alternative to Kam Khab, the more ornate brocade of silk and gold thread woven for royalty in the 14th century. Most of today’s Himroo shawls and saris are mass-produced using power looms, but some showrooms in

NORTHERN MAHAR A AEDAT I N G MAHAR ASHTR A AU E ATRASHTR IANNGG A B

ÿ Sleeping 4 Hotel Amarpreet..................................D3 5 Hotel Nandanvan.................................B5 6 Hotel Panchavati .................................B4 7 MTDC Holiday Resort..........................A5 8 Tourist's Home ....................................A5 9 VITS ......................................................B5

rant at Hotel Amarpreet tosses up Chinese dishes of a surprisingly fine quality. A good range of noodles is on oﬀer, which goes extremely well with the numerous chicken and lamb preparations all presented appetisingly in the restaurant’s well-dressed interiors.

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MAHAR ASHTR A N O R T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

the city still run traditional workshops, thus preserving this dying art. Himroo saris start at ₹1000 (cotton and silk blend). Paithani saris, which are of a superior quality, range from ₹5000 to ₹300,000 – before you baulk at the price, bear in mind that some of them take more than a year to make. If you’re buying, ensure you’re spending your money on authentic Himroo, and not ‘Aurangabad silk’. One of the best places to come and watch weavers at work is the Paithani Weaving Centre (Jalna Rd; h11.30am-8pm), behind the Indian Airlines oﬃce.

8 Information

Internet Access Internet Browsing Hub (Station Rd East; per hr ₹15; h8am-10pm) Sai Internet Café (Station Rd East; per hr ₹15; h8am-10pm) Money ICICI, State Bank of India (SBI), State Bank of Hyderabad (SBH) and HDFC Bank have several ATMs along Station Rd East, Court Rd, Nirala Bazaar and Jalna Rd. State Bank of India (Kranti Chowk; h11am5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-1pm Sat) Handles foreign exchange. Post Post office (Juna Bazaar; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Tourist Information Government of India tourist office (%2331217; Krishna Vilas, Station Rd West; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) A friendly and helpful tourist office with a decent range of brochures. MTDC office (%2331513; MTDC Holiday Resort, Station Rd East; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Travel Agencies Ashoka Tours & Travels (% 9890340816; Hotel Panchavati, Station Rd West) Personalised city and regional tours, car hire and hotel pick-ups. Run by former Lonely Planet recommended autorickshaw driver Ashok T Kadam. Classic Tours (%2337788; www.classictours .info; MTDC Holiday Resort, Station Rd East) Trusty place to book transport and tours.

8 Getting There & Away

Air The airport is 10km east of town. En route are the oﬃces of Indian Airlines (%2485241; Jalna Rd) and Jet Airways (%2441392; Jalna Rd).

There are daily flights to Delhi, with a stopover in Mumbai. Fares start from around ₹1500. Bus Buses leave regularly from the MSRTC bus stand (Station Rd West) to Pune (semideluxe/ deluxe ₹228/390, five hours) and Nasik (semideluxe ₹199, five hours). Private bus agents are located around the corner where Dr Rajendra Prasad Marg becomes Court Rd; a few sit closer to the bus stand. Deluxe overnight bus destinations include Mumbai (with/without AC ₹280/220, sleeper ₹610, eight hours), Ahmedabad (₹410, 15 hours) and Nagpur (₹390, 12 hours). Ordinary buses head to Ellora from the MSRTC bus stand every half hour (₹28, 45 minutes) and hourly to Jalgaon (₹122, four hours) via Fardapur (₹80, two hours). The T-junction near Fardapur is the drop-oﬀ point for Ajanta (see p775 for more details). Train Aurangabad’s train station (Station Rd East) is not on a main line, but two heavily-booked trains, the Tapovan Express (2nd class/chair ₹102/338, 7½ hours, 2.35pm) and the Janshatabdi Express (2nd class/chair ₹127/420, 6½ hours, 6am) run direct to/from Mumbai. For Hyderabad (Secunderabad), take the Devagiri Express (sleeper/2AC ₹224/822, 10 hours, 4.05am). To reach northern or eastern India, take a bus to Jalgaon and board a train there.

8 Getting Around

Autorickshaws are as common here as mosquitoes in a summer swamp. The taxi stand is next to the MSRTC bus stand; share jeeps also depart from here for destinations around Aurangabad, including Ellora and Daulatabad. Expect to pay ₹600 for a full-day tour in a rickshaw, or ₹900 in a taxi.

Around Aurangabad DAULATABAD

This one’s straight out of a Tolkien fantasy. A most beguiling structure, the 12th-century hilltop fortress of Daulatabad is located about 15km from Aurangabad, en route to Ellora. Now in ruins, the citadel was originally conceived as an impregnable fort by the Yadava kings. Its most infamous highpoint came in 1328, when it was christened Daulatabad (City of Fortune) by eccentric Delhi sultan Mohammed Tughlaq and made the capital – he even marched the entire population of Delhi 1100km south to populate it. Ironically, Daulatabad – despite being better positioned strategically than Delhi –

KHULDABAD

Time permitting, take a pit-stop in the scruﬀy-walled settlement of Khuldabad (Heavenly Abode), a quaint and cheerful little Muslim pilgrimage village just 3km from Ellora. Buried deep in the pages of history, Khuldabad is where a number of historic figures lie interred, including emperor Aurangzeb, the last of the Mughal greats. Despite matching the legendary King Solomon in terms of state riches, Aurangzeb was an ascetic in his personal life, and insisted that he be buried in a simple tomb constructed only with the money he had made from sewing Muslim skullcaps. An unfussy aﬀair of modest marble in a courtyard of the Alamgir Dargah (h7am-8pm) is exactly what he got. Generally a calm place, Khuldabad is swamped with pilgrims every April when a robe said to have been worn by the Prophet Mohammed, and kept within the dargah

(shrine), is shown to the public. Across the road from the Alamgir Dargah, another shrine contains strands of the Prophet’s beard and lumps of silver from a tree of solid silver, which is said to have miraculously grown at this site after a saint’s death.

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Ellora % 02437

Give a man a hammer and chisel, and he’ll create art for posterity. Come to the World Heritage Site-listed Ellora cave temples (Indian/foreigner ₹10/250; hdawn-dusk Wed-Mon), located 30km from Aurangabad, and you’ll know exactly what we mean. The epitome of ancient Indian rock-cut architecture, these caves were chipped out laboriously over five centuries by generations of Buddhist, Hindu and Jain monks. Monasteries, chapels, temples – the caves served every purpose, and they were stylishly embellished with a profusion of remarkably detailed sculptures. Unlike the caves at Ajanta (p772), which are carved into a sheer rock face, the Ellora caves line a 2km-long escarpment, the gentle slope of which allowed architects to build elaborate courtyards in front of the shrines, and render them with sculptures of a surreal quality. Ellora has 34 caves in all: 12 Buddhist (AD 600–800), 17 Hindu (AD 600–900) and five Jain (AD 800–1000). The grandest, however, is the awesome Kailasa Temple (Cave 16), the world’s largest monolithic sculpture, hewn top to bottom against a rocky slope by 7000 labourers over a 150year period. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it is clearly among the best that ancient Indian architecture has to offer. Historically, the site represents the renaissance of Hinduism under the Chalukya and Rashtrakuta dynasties, the subsequent decline of Indian Buddhism and a brief resurgence of Jainism under official patronage. The increasing influence of Tantric elements in India’s three great religions can also be seen in the way the sculptures are executed, and their coexistence at one site indicates a lengthy period of religious tolerance. Official guides can be hired at the ticket office in front of the Kailasa Temple for ₹700. Most guides have an extensive knowledge of cave architecture, so try not to skimp. If your tight itinerary forces you to choose between Ellora or Ajanta, Ellora wins hands down.

NORTHERN MAHAR ASHTR MAHAR ASHTR A E 8 L LO RA A 8

soon proved untenable as a capital due to an acute water crisis, and Tughlaq forced the weary inhabitants all the way back to Delhi, which had by then been reduced to a ghost town. Daulatabad’s central bastion sits atop a 200m-high craggy outcrop known as Devagiri (Hill of the Gods), surrounded by a 5km fort (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h6am-6pm). The climb to the summit takes about an hour, and leads past an ingenious series of defences, including multiple doorways designed with odd angles and spike-studded doors to prevent elephant charges. A tower of victory, known as the Chand Minar (Tower of the Moon), built in 1435, soars 60m above the ground to the right – it’s closed to visitors. Higher up, you can walk into the Chini Mahal, where Abul Hasan Tana Shah, king of Golconda, was held captive for 12 years before his death in 1699. Nearby, there’s a 6m cannon, cast from five different metals and engraved with Aurangzeb’s name. Part of the ascent goes through a pitchblack, bat-infested, water-seeping, spiralling tunnel. Guides (₹450) are available near the ticket counter to show you around, and their flame-bearing assistants will lead you through the dark passageway for a small tip. But on the way down you’ll be left to your own devices, so carry a torch. The crumbling staircases and sheer drops can make things difficult for the elderly, children and those suffering from vertigo or claustrophobia.

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Ellora Caves

100 m

Kailasa Temple

Parasnath 30 – 34 Jain Group 33 34

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29 28 27 26 25 24 23 21 20

19 18 17

Hotel Kailas Ticket Office MTDC Ellora Restaurant & Beer Bar

Kailasa Temple 16 15

13 – 29 Hindu Group

14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6

To Daulatabad (15km); Aurangabad (30km)

1 Sights

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4 5 1 – 12 Buddhist Group

HINDU TEMPLE

Halfway between a cave and a religious shrine, this rock-cut temple, built by King Krishna I of the Rashtrakuta dynasty in AD 760, was built to represent Mt Kailasa (Kailash), Shiva’s Himalayan abode. To say that the assignment was daring would be an understatement. Three huge trenches were bored into the sheer cliﬀ face with hammers and chisels, following which the shape was ‘released’, a process that entailed removing 200,000 tonnes of rock, while taking care to leave behind those sections that would later be used for sculpting. Covering twice the area of the Parthenon in Athens and being half as high again, Kailasa is an engineering marvel that was executed straight from the head with zero margin for error. Modern draughtsmen might have a lesson or two to learn here. Size aside, the temple is remarkable for its prodigious sculptural decoration. The temple houses several intricately carved panels, depicting scenes from the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the adventures of Krishna. Also worth admiring are the immense monolithic pillars that stand in the courtyard, flanking the entrance on both sides, and the southeastern gallery that has 10 giant and fabulous panels depicting the diﬀerent avatars of Lord Vishnu. Kailasa is a temple, still very much in use; you’ll have to remove your shoes to enter the main shrine. After you’re done with the main enclosure, bypass the hordes of snack-munching day trippers to explore the temple’s many dank, bat urine-soaked corners with their numerous forgotten carvings. Afterwards, hike up a foot trail to the south of the complex that takes you to the top perimeter of the ‘cave’, from where you can get a bird’seye view of the entire temple complex. Buddhist Caves

CAVES

The southernmost 12 caves are Buddhist viharas (monasteries), except Cave 10, which is a chaitya (assembly hall). While the earliest caves are simple, Caves 11 and 12 are more ambitious, and on par with the more impressive Hindu temples. Cave 1 , the simplest vihara, may have been a granary. Cave 2 is notable for its ornate pillars and the imposing seated Buddha, which faces the setting sun. Cave 3 and Cave 4 are unfinished and not wellpreserved.

Hindu Caves

CAVES

Where calm and contemplation infuse the Buddhist caves, drama and excitement characterise the Hindu group (Caves 13 to 29). In terms of scale, creative vision and skill of execution, these caves are in a league of their own. All these temples were cut from the top down, so it was never necessary to use scaffolding – the builders began with the roof and moved down to the floor. Cave 13 is a simple cave, most likely a granary. Cave 14, the Ravana-ki-Khai, is a Buddhist vihara converted to a temple dedicated to Shiva sometime in the 7th century. Cave 15, the Das Avatara (Ten Incarnations of Vishnu) Cave, is one of the finest at Ellora. The two-storey temple contains a mesmerising Shiva Nataraja, and Shiva emerging from a lingam (phallic image) while Vishnu and Brahma pay homage.

Caves 17 to 20 and 22 to 28 are simple monasteries. Cave 21 , known as the Ramesvara Cave, features interesting interpretations of familiar Shaivite scenes depicted in the earlier temples. The figure of goddess Ganga, standing on her makara (mythical sea creature), is particularly notable. The large Cave 29, the Dumar Lena, is thought to be a transitional model between the simpler hollowed-out caves and the fully developed temples exemplified by the Kailasa. It has views over a nearby waterfall you can walk down to. Jain Caves

CAVES

The five Jain caves may lack the artistic vigour and ambitious size of the best Hindu temples, but they are exceptionally detailed. The caves are 1km north of the last Hindu temple (Cave 29) at the end of the bitumen road. Cave 30, the Chhota Kailasa (Little Kailasa), is a poor imitation of the great Kailasa Temple and stands by itself some distance from the other Jain temples. In contrast, Cave 32, the Indra Sabha (Assembly Hall of Indra), is the finest of the Jain temples. Its ground-floor plan is similar to that of the Kailasa, but the upstairs area is as ornate and richly decorated as the downstairs is plain. There are images of the Jain tirthankars (great teachers) Parasnath and Gomateshvara, the latter surrounded by wildlife. Inside the shrine is a seated figure of Mahavira, the last tirthankar and founder of the Jain religion. Cave 31 is really an extension of Cave 32. Cave 33, the Jagannath Sabha, is similar in plan to 32 and has some well-preserved sculptures. The final temple, the small Cave 34, also has interesting sculptures. On the hilltop over the Jain temples, a 5m-high image of Parasnath looks down on Ellora.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Kailas HOTEL $$ (%244446; www.hotelkailas.com; d ₹1500, cottages from ₹2000; a) The sole decent hotel

near the site, this place should be considered only if you can’t have enough of Ellora in a single day. The comfy cottages here come with warm showers; those with cave views are ₹500 pricier. There’s a good restaurant (mains ₹100) and a lush lawn tailor-made for an evening drink. The spotless MTDC Ellora Restaurant & Beer Bar (mains ₹60-90; h9am-5pm), located

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Cave 5 is the largest vihara in this group, at 18m wide and 36m long; the rows of stone benches hint that it may once have been an assembly hall. Cave 6 is an ornate vihara with wonderful images of Tara, consort of the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, and of the Buddhist goddess of learning, Mahamayuri, looking remarkably similar to Saraswati, her Hindu equivalent. Cave 7 is an unadorned hall, but from here you can pass through a doorway to Cave 8, the first cave in which the sanctum is detached from the rear wall. Cave 9 is notable for its wonderfully carved fascia. Cave 10 is the only chaitya in the Buddhist group and one of the finest in India. Its ceiling features ribs carved into the stonework; the grooves were once fitted with wooden panels. The balcony and upper gallery oﬀer a closer view of the ceiling and a frieze depicting amorous couples. A decorative window gently illuminates an enormous figure of the teaching Buddha. Cave 11 , the Do Thal (Two Storey) Cave, is entered through its third basement level, not discovered until 1876. Like Cave 12, it probably owes its size to competition with the more impressive Hindu caves of the same period. Cave 12, the huge Tin Thal (Three Storey) Cave, is entered through a courtyard. The locked shrine on the top floor contains a large Buddha figure flanked by his seven previous incarnations. The walls are carved with relief pictures, like those in the Hindu caves.

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within the complex, is a good place to settle in for lunch, or pack takeaways in case you want to picnic beside the caves.

8 Getting There & Away

MAHAR ASHTR A N O R T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

Buses regularly ply the road between Aurangabad and Ellora (₹28); the last bus departs from Ellora at 8pm. Share jeeps leave when they’re full with drop-oﬀ outside the bus stand in Aurangabad (₹40). A full-day autorickshaw tour to Ellora, with stops en route, costs ₹600; taxis charge around ₹900.

Ajanta % 02438

Fiercely guarding its horde of priceless artistic treasures from another era, the

Buddhist caves of Ajanta (Indian/foreigner ₹10/250; video ₹25; h9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun),

105km northeast of Aurangabad, could well be called the Louvre of ancient India. Much older than Ellora, its venerable twin in the World Heritage Sites listings, these secluded caves date from around the 2nd century BC to the 6th century AD and were among the earliest monastic institutions to be constructed in the country. Ironically, it was Ellora’s rise that brought about Ajanta’s downfall, and historians believe the site was abandoned once the focus had shifted to the newly-built caves of Ellora. Upon being deserted, the caves were soon reclaimed by wilderness and remained forgotten until 1819, when a British hunting party led by oﬃcer John Smith stumbled upon them purely by chance. The primary reason to visit Ajanta is to admire its renowned ‘frescoes’, actually temperas, which adorn many of the caves’ interiors. With few other examples from ancient times matching their artistic excellence and fine execution, these paintings are of unfathomable heritage value. It’s believed that the natural pigments for these paintings were mixed with animal glue and vegetable gum to bind them to the dry surface. Many caves have small, crater-like holes in their floors, which acted as palettes during paint jobs. Despite their age, the paintings in most caves remain finely preserved today, and many attribute it to their relative isolation from humanity for centuries. However, it would be a tad optimistic to say that decay hasn’t set in. Signposts placed at the entrance of the complex list a series of ‘Dos

and Don’ts’ intended to reduce human impact on this vulnerable site. Please comply. Authorised guides are available to show you around for ₹600.

1 Sights & Activities The Caves

CAVES

The 30 caves of Ajanta line the steep face of a horseshoe-shaped rock gorge bordering the Waghore River flowing below. They are sequentially numbered from one end to the other, barring Caves 29 and 30. The numbering has nothing to do with their chronological order; the oldest caves are actually in the middle and are flanked by newer caves on both sides. Caves 3, 5, 8, 22 and 28 to 30 remain either closed or inaccessible. Other caves might be closed from time to time due to restoration work – Cave 10, the grandest of them all, was being scaﬀolded on the outside during research. During rush periods, viewers are allotted 15 minutes within the caves, many of which have to be entered barefoot (socks allowed). Five of the caves are chaityas while the other 25 are viharas. Caves 8, 9, 10, 12, 13 and part of 15 are early Buddhist caves, while the others date from around the 5th century AD (Mahayana period). In the simpler, more austere early Buddhist school, the Buddha was never represented directly – his presence was always alluded to by a symbol such as the footprint or wheel of law. Cave 1 , a Mahayana vihara, was one of the last to be excavated and is the most beautifully decorated. This is where you’ll find a rendition of the Bodhisattva Padmapani, the most famous and iconic of the Ajanta artworks. A verandah in front leads to a large congregation hall, housing sculptures and narrative murals known for their splendid perspective and elaborate detailing of dress, daily life and facial expressions. The colours in the paintings were created from local minerals, with the exception of the vibrant blue made from Central Asian lapis lazuli. Look up to the ceiling to see the carving of four deer sharing a common head. Cave 2 is also a late Mahayana vihara with deliriously ornamented columns and capitals, and some fine paintings. The ceiling is decorated with geometric and floral patterns. The murals depict scenes from the Jataka tales, including Buddha’s mother’s

Park

iver

To Viewpoint (500m)

Viewpoint

Wag hore R

8 7

Bus Stand Main Ticket Office Cloakroom; Refreshment Centre Toilets

Chair Hire

To Fardapur T-junction (4km); Fardapur (5km)

Main Entrance

NORTHERN MAHAR MAHAR ASHTR A A S IJGAASHTR HNTTA S & AACSTI G I VHI T SI E & S AC T I V I T I E S

Ajanta Caves

100 m

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MAHAR ASHTR A N O R T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

dream of a six-tusked elephant, which heralded his conception. Cave 4 is the largest vihara at Ajanta and is supported by 28 pillars. Although never completed, the cave has some impressive sculptures, including scenes of people fleeing from the ‘eight great dangers’ to the protection of Avalokitesvara. Cave 6 is the only two-storey vihara at Ajanta, but parts of the lower storey have collapsed. Inside is a seated Buddha figure and an intricately carved door to the shrine. Upstairs the hall is surrounded by cells with fine paintings on the doorways. Cave 7 has an atypical design, with porches before the verandah leading directly to the four cells and the elaborately sculptured shrine. Cave 9 is one of the earliest chaityas at Ajanta. Although it dates from the early Buddhist period, the two figures flanking the entrance door were probably later Mahayana additions. Columns run down both sides of the cave and around the 3m-high dagoba at the far end. The vaulted roof has traces of wooden ribs. Cave 10 is thought to be the oldest cave (200 BC) and was the first one to be spotted by the British hunting party. Similar in design to Cave 9, it is the largest chaitya. The facade has collapsed and the paintings inside have been damaged, in some cases by graﬃti dating from soon after their rediscovery. One of the pillars to the right bears the engraved name of Smith, who left his mark here for posterity. Cave 16, a vihara, contains some of Ajanta’s finest paintings and is thought to have been the original entrance to the entire complex. The best known of these paintings is the ‘dying princess’ – Sundari, wife of the Buddha’s half-brother Nanda, who is said to have fainted at the news that her husband was renouncing the material life (and her) in order to become a monk. Carved figures appear to support the ceiling in imitation of wooden architectural details, and there’s a statue of the Buddha seated on a lion throne teaching the Noble Eightfold Path. Cave 17, with carved dwarfs supporting the pillars, has Ajanta’s best-preserved and most varied paintings. Famous images include a princess applying make-up, a seductive prince using the old trick of plying his lover with wine, and the Buddha returning home from his enlightenment to beg from his wife and astonished son. A detailed

panel tells of Prince Simhala’s expedition to Sri Lanka: with 500 companions he is shipwrecked on an island where ogresses appear as enchanting women, only to seize and devour their victims. Simhala escapes on a flying horse and returns to conquer the island. Cave 19, a magnificent chaitya, has a remarkably detailed facade; its dominant feature is an impressive horseshoe-shaped window. Two fine, standing Buddha figures flank the entrance. Inside is a three-tiered dagoba with a figure of the Buddha on the front. Outside the cave, to the west, sits a striking image of the Naga king with seven cobra hoods around his head. His wife, hooded by a single cobra, sits by his side. Cave 24, had it been finished, would be the largest vihara at Ajanta. You can see how the caves were constructed – long galleries were cut into the rock and then the rock between them was broken through. Cave 26, a largely ruined chaitya, is now dramatically lit, and contains some fine sculptures that shouldn’t be missed. On the left wall is a huge figure of the ‘reclining Buddha’, lying back in preparation for nirvana. Other scenes include a lengthy depiction of the Buddha’s temptation by Maya. Cave 27 is virtually a vihara connected to the Cave 26 chaitya. Viewpoints

VIEWPOINT

Two lookouts oﬀer picture-perfect views of the whole horseshoe-shaped gorge. The first is a short walk beyond the river, crossed via a bridge below Cave 8. A further 40-minute

WHEN IN AJANTA… » Flash photography is strictly prohibited within the caves, due to its adverse effect on natural dyes used in the paintings. Authorities have installed rows of tiny pigment-friendly lights which cast a faint glow within the caves, but additional lighting is required for glimpsing minute details, and you’ll have to rely on long exposures for photographs.

» Most buses ferrying noisy tourists to Ajanta don’t get there until noon, so either stay the previous night in Fardapur or push for an early start from Aurangabad and explore the caves in the morning, when they are pleasantly quiet and uncrowded.

uphill walk (not to be attempted during the monsoons) leads to the lookout from where the British party first spotted the caves.

4 Sleeping & Eating Accommodation options close to the caves are limited and you’re better oﬀ using Aurangabad or Jalgaon as a base. MTDC Holiday Resort HOTEL $ (%244230; Aurangabad-Jalgaon Rd, Fardapur; d with/without AC ₹900/700; a) This govern-

MTDC Ajanta Tourist Complex HOTEL $$ (%09422204325; Fardapur T-junction; cottages ₹1200; a) Located just behind the shopping

‘plaza’ and the bus stand is this mint-fresh resort, featuring five charming and wellappointed cottages nestled amid grassy lawns overlooking the hills. However, you’ll have to forage for your own food from the stalls nearby.

Jalgaon % 0257 / POP 368,000 / ELEV 208M

Apart from being a handy base for exploring Ajanta 60km away, Jalgaon is really nothing more than a convenient transit town. A grubby settlement, it stands on the passing rail trade, connecting northern Maharashtra to all major cities across India. Indeed, it’s a place to consider if you’re moving out of the state towards northern India, or vice versa.

4 Sleeping & Eating Most of the hotels in Jalgaon have 24-hour check out. Power cuts are common, so carry a torch for emergencies.

As far as stuﬃng your face goes, there is a string of cheap, unappetising restaurants in the plaza (at Fardapur T-Junction). You could pack a picnic and enjoy it in the shady park below Caves 22 to 27. There’s also a buzzing refreshment centre by the main ticket oﬃce (at Ajanta caves), which serves an overpriced vegetarian thali (₹80) and warm beer.

Hotel Plaza HOTEL $ (%2227354; hotelplaza_jal@yahoo.com; Station Rd; d with/without AC ₹900/500; ai) It’s amazing

8 Information

Hotel Royal Palace HOTEL $$ (%2233555; Jai Nagar, Mahabal Rd; d from ₹975; aW) It’s worth suﬀering the 15-minute

A cloakroom adjoining the toilets near the main ticket oﬃce is a safe place to leave gear (₹5 per item for four hours), in case you are visiting Ajanta en route from Aurangabad to Jalgaon or vice versa. The caves are a short, steep climb from the ticket oﬃce; the elderly can opt for a chair carried by four bearers (₹400). On a rather perplexing note, the authorities were constructing a brand new complex near the T-junction during research, where they reportedly intended to replicate the major caves within modern, climate-controlled domes!

8 Getting There & Away

Buses from Aurangabad (p768) or Jalgaon (p776) will drop you oﬀ at the T-junction (where the highway meets the road to the caves), 4km from the site. From here, after paying an ‘amenities’ fee (₹7), race to the departure point for

how Hotel Plaza continues to impress travellers day after relentless day. There’s nothing fancy on oﬀer here, but for the money you pay it’s a bumper deal. Rooms are squeaky clean, the sheets fresh, and the eﬀusive owner a mine of useful information.

rickshaw ride from the train station to this smart hotel. Luxuriant by Jalgaon’s standards, it has a range of spotlessly clean and prim rooms, and a decent multicuisine restaurant serving eminently edible north Indian, coastal, Chinese and Continental fare.

Hotel Arya INDIAN $ (Navi Peth; mains ₹50-80) Vegetarian-only

grub on offer; try one of the lip-smacking Punjabi delights. You may have to queue for a table during meals.

8 Information

You can find a couple of banks, ATMs and internet cafes on Nehru Rd, which runs along the top of Station Rd.

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ment hotel has been given a much-needed overhaul, and it now sits pretty amid lawns just by the main road in Fardapur. Rooms are decent, and the open-air beer bar clinches the deal. It’s by far the best lodging option around here.

the green-coloured ‘pollution-free’ buses (with/ without AC ₹12/7), which zoom up to the caves. Buses return on a regular basis (half-hourly, last bus at 6.15pm) to the T-junction. All MSRTC buses passing through Fardapur stop at the T-junction. After the caves close you can board buses to either Aurangabad or Jalgaon outside the MTDC Holiday Resort in Fardapur, 1km down the main road towards Jalgaon. Taxis are available in Fardapur; ₹900 should get you to Jalgaon.

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8 Getting There & Away

MAHAR ASHTR A N O R T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

Several express trains connecting Mumbai (sleeper/2AC ₹211/721, eight hours), Delhi (sleeper/2AC ₹375/1362, 18 hours) and Kolkata (sleeper/2AC ₹442/1623, 26 hours) stop at Jalgaon train station. The Sewagram Express goes to Nagpur (sleeper/2AC ₹207/709, eight hours, 10pm). Buses to Fardapur (₹40, 1½ hours) depart half-hourly from the bus stand starting at 6am, continuing to Aurangabad (₹122, four hours). Jalgaon’s train station and bus stand are about 2km apart (₹20 by autorickshaw). Luxury bus oﬃces on Railway Station Rd oﬀer services to Aurangabad (₹140, 3½ hours), Mumbai (₹275, nine hours), Pune (₹275, nine hours) and Nagpur (ordinary/sleeper ₹330/360, 10 hours).

Lonar Meteorite Crater If you like oﬀ-beat adventures, travel to Lonar to explore a prehistoric natural wonder. About 50,000 years ago, a meteorite slammed into the earth here, leaving behind a massive crater, 2km across and 170m deep. In scientific jargon, it’s the only hypervelocity natural impact crater in basaltic rock in the world. In lay terms, it’s as tranquil and relaxing a spot as you could hope to find, with a shallow green lake at its base and wilderness all around. The lake water is supposedly alkaline and excellent for the skin. Scientists think that the meteorite is still embedded about 600m below the southeastern rim of the crater. The crater’s edge is home to several Hindu temples as well as wildlife, including langurs, peacocks, deer and an array of birds. MTDC Tourist Complex (%07260221602; d with/without AC ₹1100/900; a) has a prime

location just across the road from the crater, and oﬀers eight rooms of relatively good value, considering the location.

8 Getting There & Away

There are a couple of buses a day between Lonar and Aurangabad (₹125, 3½ hours). It’s also possible to visit Lonar on a day trip from Aurangabad or Jalgaon if you hire a car and driver, and don’t mind dishing out about ₹2200.

Nagpur % 0712 / POP 2.1 MILLION / ELEV 305M

In the heart of India’s orange country, Nagpur is located way oﬀ the main tourist routes. Apart from being at its festive best during Dussehra, the city – as such – is hopelessly devoid of sites. Nonetheless, it makes a good

base for venturing out to the far eastern corner of Maharashtra. First up, it’s close to the temples of Ramtek (p777) and the ashrams of Sevagram (p777). Besides, Nagpur is also a convenient stop for those heading to the isolated Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, 150km south of Nagpur, which has some of India’s most dense forest teeming with wildlife, including the famed Bengal tigers. If you have some time to kill in the evening, take a stroll in the city’s Civil Lines area, dotted with some fantastic buildings and mansions dating back to the Raj era, now used as government oﬃces.

4 Sleeping & Eating Nagpur’s hotels cater primarily to businesspeople, not tourists. Needless to say, they’re frightfully overpriced. Stay in the Central Ave area if you’re on a budget, or have a train to catch in the wee hours. Otherwise, consider moving to Ramdaspeth, closer to the city centre. Hotel Centre Point HOTEL $$ (%2420910; fax 2446260; www.centrepointgroup .org; 24 Central Bazar Rd, Ramdaspeth; s/d from ₹3750/4250; aWs) A trusted address that’s

been setting the standards of luxury in Nagpur for sometime now. Rooms are plush, with fluﬀy beds, high-speed internet access and cheerful paintings adorning the walls. It’s located in the heart of the business and entertainment district.

Hotel Blue Diamond HOTEL $ (%2727461; www.hotelbluediamondnagpur.com; 113 Central Ave; s/d ₹400/500, with AC ₹1250/1350; a)

The mirrored ceiling in reception is straight out of a bad ’70s nightclub and the rooms are pretty much the type you’d expect above a seedy ’70s nightclub. There’s a dungeon-like bar on the mezzanine floor. AC rooms have LCD TVs and crumpled linoleum flooring.

The Pride Hotel HOTEL $$$ (%2291102; fax 2290440; www.pridehotel.com; opp. airport, Wardha Rd; s/d from ₹5500/6250; aWs) Located close to the airport and

away from the din of the city, this sleek business hotel is a good stopover option for touch-and-go travellers. Royal Lancers, its lobby bar, and Puran Da Dhaba, a soupedup version of a traditional Punjabi eatery, are good places to settle in for the evening.

Krishnum SOUTH INDIAN (Central Ave; mains ₹40-50) This popular

place dishes out South Indian snacks and fruit juices of agreeable quality. It also has branches in other parts of town.

Picadilly Checkers FAST FOOD (VCA Complex, Civil Lines; mains ₹60-80) A

favourite eating joint for Nagpur’s college brigade. A good range of all-vegetarian quick bites are on offer. The dozens of dhabas (snack bars), food stalls and fruit stands opposite the train station rouse in the evening. Summer is the best time to sample the famed oranges.

8 Information

8 Getting There & Away

Air Most domestic airlines, including Indian Airlines (%2533962) and Jet Airways (%5617888), operate daily flights to Delhi (from ₹3500, 1½ hours), Mumbai (from ₹2500, 1½ hours) and Kolkata (from ₹2500, 1½ hours), as well as linking Hyderabad, Ahmedabad, Bengaluru, Chennai and Pune. Taxis/autorickshaws from the airport to the city centre cost ₹350/200. Bus The main MSRTC bus stand is 2km south of the train station and hotel area. Ordinary buses head regularly for Wardha (₹57, three hours) and Ramtek (₹35, 1½ hours). There are two buses to Jalgaon (₹326, 10 hours), and three to Hyderabad (₹317, 12 hours). Train From Nagpur’s train station, the Vidarbha Express departs for Mumbai (sleeper/2AC ₹140/1159, 14 hours, 5.15pm), and heading north to Kolkata is the Gitanjali Express (sleeper/2AC ₹379/1378, 17½ hours, 7.05pm). Several expresses bound for Delhi and Mumbai stop at Jalgaon (for Ajanta caves; sleeper/2AC ₹207/709, seven hours).

Around Nagpur RAMTEK

About 40km northeast of Nagpur, Ramtek is believed to be the place where Lord Rama, of the epic Ramayana, spent some time during his exile with his wife Sita and

SEVAGRAM % 07152

Located about 85km from Nagpur, Sevagram (Village of Service) was chosen by Mahatma Gandhi as his base during the Indian Independence Movement. Throughout the freedom struggle, the village played host to several nationalist leaders, who would regularly come to visit the Mahatma at his Sevagram Ashram (%284753; h6am-5.30pm). The overseers of this peaceful ashram, built on 40 hectares of tree-lined farmland, have carefully restored and conserved the original huts that Gandhi lived and worked in, which now house some of his personal eﬀects, including items of stationery, wooden sandals and his walking stick. Overall, it’s a wonderful daylong excursion, although slightly out of the way. Very basic lodging is available in the Yatri Nivas (%284753; d ₹100), across the road from the entry gate (advance booking recommended), and simple vegetarian meals can be served in the ashram’s dining hall with prior notice. Just 3km from Sevagram, Paunar village is home to the Brahmavidya Mandir Ashram (%288388; h4am-noon & 2-8pm). Founded by Vinoba Bhave, a nationalist and disciple of Gandhi, the ashram is run almost entirely by women. Modelled on swaraj (self-suﬃciency), it’s operated on a social system of consensus with no central management. Sevagram can be reached by taking a Wardha-bound bus from Nagpur (₹50, three hours). TADOBA-ANDHARI RESERVE

Now under India’s Project Tiger directorate, this little-explored national park – with

777

NORTHERN MAHAR ASHTR 8 PUR MAHAR ASHTR A A 8 RO U N D NAAG

Computrek (18 Central Ave; per hr ₹20; h10am-10pm) Internet access on the main drag. MTDC (%2533325; near MLA Hostel, Civil Lines; h10am-5.45pm Mon-Sat) Manned by helpful staff. State Bank of India (Kingsway; h11am-2pm Mon-Fri) A two-minute walk west of the train station. Deals in foreign exchange. State Bank of India, ICICI Bank, Axis Bank and HDFC Bank have ATMs along Central Ave and in Ramdaspeth.

brother Lakshmana. The place is marked by a cluster of temples (h6am-9pm) about 600 years old, which sit atop the Hill of Rama and have their own population of resident monkeys. Autorickshaws will cart you the 5km from the bus stand to the temple complex for ₹50. You can return to town via the 700 steps at the back of the complex. On the road to the temples you’ll pass the delightful Ambala Tank, lined with small shrines. You can take a boat ride (₹20 per head) around the lake if you want. Not far away from the main temple cluster, Rajkamal Resort (%07114202761; d with/ without AC ₹1200/900; a) has large, featureless rooms with TVs, and a basic restaurant-bar. Buses run half-hourly between Ramtek and the MSRTC bus stand in Nagpur (₹35, 1½ hours). The last bus to Nagpur is at 7pm.

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THE LEGEND OF ‘BABA’ AMTE

MAHAR ASHTR A S O U T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

The legend of Murlidhar Devidas ‘Baba’ Amte (1914–2008) is oft-repeated in humanitarian circles around the world. Hailing from an upper-class Brahmin family in Wardha, Amte was snugly ensconced in material riches and on his way to becoming a successful lawyer, when he witnessed a leper die unattended in the streets one night. It was an incident that changed him forever. Soon after, Amte renounced worldly comforts, embracing an austere life through which he actively worked for the benefit of leprosy patients and those belonging to marginalised communities. In the primitive forested backyards of eastern Maharashtra, he set up his ashram called Anandwan (Forest of Joy). A true Gandhian, Amte believed in self-suﬃciency, and his lifelong eﬀorts saw several awards being conferred upon him, including the Ramon Magsaysay Award in 1985. Amte’s work has been continued by his sons Vikas and Prakash and their wives – the latter couple also won the Magsaysay Award in 2008. The family now runs three ashrams in these remote parts to care for the needy, both humans and animals. Volunteering opportunities are available; contact the ashram on mss@niya.org or lbp@bsnl.in.

a healthy population of Bengal tigers – lies 150km south of Nagpur. Less visited than most other forests in India, this is a place where you can get up close with wildlife (which also includes gaurs, chitals, nilgais and sloth bears) without having to jostle past truckloads of shutter-happy tourists. The trade-oﬀ is that you’ll have to make do with basic amenities and low comfort levels. The park remains open through most of the year. The MTDC Resort (d with/without AC ₹1500/1200) in nearby Moharli has a string of decent rooms and dining facilities. The resort can also arrange jungle safaris in jeeps and minibuses. Bookings can be made at the MTDC’s Nagpur oﬃce (see p777). If you’re travelling in groups of six or more, MTDC has an all-inclusive overnight package out of Nagpur (₹3750 per person), which is recommended since it takes care of logistical hassles. Call in advance. Several state buses ply between Nagpur and Chandrapur through the day (₹110, 3½ hours).

SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA Konkan Coast Despite being flanked on both ends by two of India’s top urban centres, it’s laudable how the Konkan Coast manages to latch on to its virginal bounties. A little-explored shoreline running southward from Mumbai

all the way to Goa, it is a picturesque strip of land peppered with flawless beaches, tropical green paddy fields, rolling hills and decaying forts. Travelling through this peaceful and quaint region can be sheer bliss. However, remember that accommodation is scant, the cuisine unsophisticated though tasty, and the locals unaccustomed to tour groups, especially foreigners. Since transport is both limited and unreliable, a good option is to rent a taxi in Mumbai and drift slowly down the coast to Goa. What you’ll get in return is an experience that money can’t buy. MURUD

% 02144 / POP 12,500

Even if you don’t plan on going the whole stretch, the sleepy fishing hamlet of Murud – 165km from Mumbai – should definitely be on your itinerary. Once you step on to its lazy beaches and feel the white surf rush past your feet, you’ll be happy you came. Sight-wise, Murud is home to the magnificent island fortress of Janjira (admission free; h7am-5.30pm), standing about 500m oﬀshore. The citadel was built in 1140 by the Siddis, descendants of sailor-traders from the Horn of Africa, who settled here and allegedly made their living through piracy. No outsider ever made it past the fort’s 12m-high walls which, when seen during high tide, seem to rise straight from the sea. Unconquered through history, the fort finally fell to the spoils of nature. Today, its ramparts are slowly turning to rubble as wilderness reclaims its innards. The only way to reach Janjira is by boat (₹20 return, 15 minutes) from Rajpuri Port.

8 Getting There & Away

AC catamarans (₹100, two hours) from the Gateway of India in Mumbai cruise to Mandva pier between 6am and 7pm. The ticket includes a free shuttle bus to Alibag (30 minutes), otherwise an autorickshaw will be about ₹150. Rickety local buses from Alibag head down the coast to Murud (₹35, two hours). Alternatively, buses from Mumbai Central bus stand take almost six hours to Murud (ordinary/semideluxe ₹117/158). Avoid the train. The nearest railhead is at Roha, two hours away and badly connected. GANPATIPULE % 02357

smart place with breezy sea-facing rooms, this place scores quite well with Mumbai’s weekend travellers. A teeny swimming pool at the entrance is a welcome addition, and dolphin safaris can be arranged upon prior request.

Primarily a temple town, Ganpatipule has been luring a steady stream of sea-lovers over the years with its clean waters and pristine sands stretching to the horizon. Located about 375km from Mumbai, it’s a village that snoozes through much of the year, except during holidays such as Diwali or Ganesh Chaturthi. These are times when hordes of boisterous ‘tourists’ turn up to visit the seaside Ganesha Temple (h6am-9pm) housing a monolithic Ganesha (painted a bright orange), supposedly discovered 1600 years ago. About 40km southward, Ratnagiri is the largest town on the southern Maharashtra coast and the main train station for Ganpatipule (it’s on the Konkan Railway). You’ll also find several ATMs strung along Ratnagiri’s main street. But once you’ve refilled your wallet and gone shopping for conveniences, the only sight worth checking out – apart from a dirty beach – are the remnants of the

Hotel Shoreline HOTEL $$ (%02232258882; www.ajinkyaholidays.com; Darbar Rd; d from ₹3000; a) It’s slightly boxy and

Burmese king, Thibaw, was interned under the British from 1886 until his death in 1916.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Golden Swan Beach Resort HOTEL $$ (%274078; www.goldenswan.com; Darbar Rd; d incl full board with/without AC from ₹3500/2000; a) With only a thicket of palms separating

it from the beach, this upscale hotel oﬀers accommodation in cosy rooms and cottages looking out to the sea. The non-AC rooms are in a charming old bungalow located five minutes away from the main property. Sea Shell Resort HOTEL $$ (%09833667985; www.seashellmurud.com; Darbar Rd; d with/without AC ₹2500/2000; as) A very

Thibaw Palace (Thibaw Palace Rd; admission free; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun), where the last

brassy in contrast to its surroundings, but it’s centrally located and should be alright for a night or two. Only the more expensive rooms face the sea.

4 Sleeping & Eating

New Sea Rock Restaurant FAST FOOD $ (Rajpuri; h9am-9pm) Perched on a cliﬀ over-

Ganpatipule’s beach, this is the best place to camp. It’s a smart, well-kept place with an assortment of rooms and cottages, and packs in a Bank of Maharashtra that changes travellers cheques, along with a beer bar. Try the Konkani huts, themed on rural Malvani homes, for a unique experience.

looking the beach at Rajpuri, this quick-eats joint has an awesome view of Janjira, which looms ahead. A perfect place to steal a million -dollar sunset for the price of a chai (₹10). The proprietors also arrange kayak rides and other water sports during the high season. Vinayaka Restaurant INDIAN $ (Darbar Rd; mains ₹100) A great place to tuck

into a delicious and fiery Malvani thali, served with pink kokam syrup to smother the spices.

MTDC Resort HOTEL $$ (%235248; d with/without AC from ₹1500/1300; a) Spread over a prime complex just oﬀ

Hotel Vihar Deluxe HOTEL $$ (%02352222944; Main Rd, Ratnagiri; d with/without AC ₹1800/1000; a) This gigantic operation is

one of a few functional but featureless hotels that line the main strip in Ratnagiri. Rooms are adequate (the loos quite good), and the

779

SOUTHERN MAHAR ASHTR 8 ST MAHAR ASHTR A KO 8 N K A N CAOA

Boats depart from 7am to 5.30pm daily, but require a minimum of 20 passengers. You can also have a boat to yourself (₹400), and most oarsmen will double as guides for a negotiable fee (around ₹350). To get to Rajpuri from Murud, take an autorickshaw (₹50) or hire a bicycle (₹50 per hour) from the Golden Swan Beach Resort. Back in Murud you can waste away the days on the beach, joining in with karate practice or playing cricket with local youngsters. Alternately, you could peer through the gates of the oﬀ-limits Ahmedganj Palace, estate of the Siddi Nawab of Murud, or scramble around the decaying mosque and tombs on the south side of town.

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GET MAROONED

MAHAR ASHTR A S O U T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

Apart from its main sands, the Konkan Coast also features a string of less-explored but heavenly beaches that could arm-wrestle the Maldives any given day. About 17km north of Murud, well connected by share autorickshaws (₹50), lies Kashid, a fantastic beach where you can cosy up with your favourite paperback while sipping on tender coconuts. South of Murud is Diveagar, swarming with colonies of sand bubbler crabs, scenic Harihareshwar, famous for its seaside temple, and serene Vengurla, 10km from Tarkarli, a place you probably wouldn’t mind being shipwrecked. Most of these places are connected by back roads where public transport is scant, so they are best visited in a hired cab. You might have to ask for directions often, or stay in village homes for the odd night. Be generous with how much you give.

food – especially the seafood – is commendable. A hearty South Indian breakfast is complimentary. Tarang Restaurant INDIAN $ (MTDC Resort; mains ₹80-100) Barring beach-

side stalls, this is one of the few places where you can grab a decent meal in Ganpatipule.

8 Getting There & Away

Ordinary buses shuttle between Ganpatipule and Ratnagiri (₹40, 1½ hours). One semideluxe MSRTC bus heads out at 8.45am to Mumbai (₹369, 10 hours), and departs from Mumbai at 8pm. From Ratnagiri’s train station, the Janshatabdi Express goes to Mumbai (2nd class/chair ₹142/460, 5½ hours, 5.50pm). The return train heading for Goa (2nd class/ chair ₹122/390, 3½ hours) is at 10.45am. From Ratnagiri’s old bus stand, semideluxe buses leave for Goa (₹221, seven hours) and Kolhapur (₹135, four hours). TARKARLI & MALVAN % 02365

A government tourism promo parades this place as comparable to Tahiti, and for once, you can rest assured that these guys are not exaggerating! Within striking distance of Goa, about 200km from Ratnagiri, pristine Tarkarli has white sands and sparkling blue waters that rekindle memories of the Andamans or Ko Phi Phi in Thailand. What’s lacking is a well-oiled tourist industry and urban comforts, but do you care? The monstrous Sindhudurg Fort, built by Shivaji and dating from 1664, lies on an oﬀshore island and can be reached by frequent ferries (₹30) from Malvan. MTDC can arrange snorkelling trips to the clear waters around the fortress. Of the few hotels and resorts available, the good old MTDC Holiday Resort (%252390; d from ₹1800; a) is still your best

bet. Enquire at the resort about backwater tours on its fabulous houseboats (standard/ luxury incl full board ₹6500/7500). The closest train station is Kudal, 38km away. Frequent buses (₹25, one hour) cover the route from Malvan bus stand (%252034). An autorickshaw from Kudal to Malvan or Tarkarli is about ₹400. Malvan has buses daily to Panaji (₹70, three hours) and a couple of services to Ratnagiri (₹130, five hours).

Matheran % 02148 / POP 5100 / ELEV 803M

Literally meaning ‘Jungle Above’, Matheran is a tiny patch of peace and quiet capping a craggy Sahyadri summit within spitting distance from Mumbai’s heat and grime. Endowed with shady forests criss-crossed with foot trails and breathtaking lookouts, it is easily the most elegant of Maharashtra’s hill stations. The credit for discovering this little gem goes to Hugh Malet, erstwhile collector of Thane district, who chanced upon it during one of his excursions in 1850. Soon it became a hill station patronised by the British and populated by Parsi families. Getting to Matheran is really half the fun. While speedier options are available by road, nothing beats arriving in town on the narrow-gauge toy train (mini train) that chugs laboriously along a 21km scenic route to the heart of the settlement. Motor vehicles are banned within Matheran, making it an ideal place to give your ears and lungs a rest and your feet some exercise.

1 Sights & Activities You can walk along shady forest paths to most of Matheran’s viewpoints in a matter of hours, and it’s a place well-suited to stress-

4 Sleeping & Eating Hotels in Matheran are low in quality and unreasonably high in tariﬀ, so if you’re not feeling generous, make your visit a day trip from Mumbai. Check-out times vary wildly (as early as 7am), as do high and low season rates. Matheran shuts shop during the monsoons.

oVerandah

HERITAGE HOTEL $$ In The Forest (%230296; www.neemranahotels.com; Barr House; d incl breakfast from ₹3000) This wonderfully

preserved 19th-century bungalow thrives on undiluted nostalgia. Step past the threshold of one of its quaintly luxurious rooms or suites and find yourself reminiscing about bygone times in the company of ornate candelabras, antique teak furniture, Victorian canvases, grandfather clocks and a rush of other memorabilia. The eponymous verandah is probably the most beautiful location from where to admire Matheran’s woods, and there’s a good selection of food and beverages to keep you company through idle hours. Lord’s Central Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%230228; www.matheranhotels.com; MG Rd; d incl full board from ₹3600; ais) Owned by a

gracious Parsi family over six generations, this charming colonial-style aﬀair is one of Matheran’s most reputed establishments, and guarantees a pleasant stay within its old-world portals. The rooms are comfy, the swimming pool deck oﬀers fabulous views of the valley and distant peaks, and a jumbo chess board out on the lawns is a nice place to down a beer before an awesome Parsi lunch.

Hope Hall Hotel HOTEL $$ (%230253; MG Rd; d from ₹2000) ‘Since 1875’,

781

says a plaque at reception, and frankly, the age shows! However, it’s a cheerful place and going by the scores of ‘thank you’ notes left by guests, it must be an okay place to stay. Hookahs & Tikkas INDIAN (MG Rd; mains ₹50-110) Operating from a

Rasna INDIAN (MG Rd; mains ₹80-100) This restaurant op-

balcony overlooking the main road, this place serves a range of kebabs and savoury Indian fare, as well as hookahs with flavoured tobacco.

posite Naoroji Lord Garden serves tasty vegetarian food. Try the popular Punjabi (North Indian) thali (₹90).

8 Information

Entry to Matheran costs ₹25 (₹15 for children), which you pay on arrival at the train station or the Dasturi car park. On the main road into town, Vishwas Photo Studio (MG Rd; h9.30am-10pm) sells useful miniguides (₹25) and photographic accessories, and doubles as a tourist oﬃce. The Union Bank of India (MG Rd; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) has an ATM.

8 Getting There & Away

Taxi Share taxis run from Neral to Matheran’s Dasturi car park (₹60, 30 minutes). Horses (₹180) and hand-pulled rickshaws (₹200) wait here to whisk you in a cloud of red dust to Matheran’s main bazaar. You can also walk this stretch in a little over an hour. Train The toy train (2nd class/1st class ₹35/210) chugs between Matheran and Neral Junction five times daily. The service is suspended during monsoons. From Mumbai, express trains to Neral Junction include the 7.10am Deccan Express or the 8.40am Koyna Express (2nd class/ chair ₹46/165, 1½ hours). Other expresses from Mumbai stop at Karjat, down the line from Neral, from where you can backtrack on a local train. From Pune, you can reach Karjat by the Sinhagad Express (2nd class/chair ₹47/165, two hours, 6.05am).

8 Getting Around

Apart from hand-pulled rickshaws and horses, walking is the only other transport option in Matheran.

SOUTHERN MAHAR A&SELAT E EIPNIGN G & E AT I N G MAHAR ASHTR A M S LAT EASHTR EHPEI R NAGN

free ambling. To catch the sunrise, head to Panorama Point, while Porcupine Point (also known as Sunset Point) is the most popular (read: packed) as the sun drops. Louisa Point and Little Chouk Point also have stunning views of the Sahyadris and if you’re visiting Echo Point, give it a yell. Stop at Charlotte Lake on the way back from Echo Point, but don’t go for a swim – this is the town’s main water supply and stepping in is prohibited. You can reach the valley below One Tree Hill down the path known as Shivaji’s Ladder, supposedly trod upon by the Maratha leader himself. Horses can be hired along MG Rd for rides to the lookout points; they cost about ₹250 per hour (negotiable).

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Lonavla % 02114 / POP 55,600 / ELEV 625M

MAHAR ASHTR A S O U T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

Cheekily masquerading as a hill station, Lonavla is an overdeveloped (and overpriced) mercantile town about 106km southeast of Mumbai. It’s far from attractive, with its main drag consisting almost exclusively of garishly lit shops flogging chikki, the rockhard, brittle sweet made in the area. The only reason you’d want to come here is to visit the nearby Karla and Bhaja Caves which, after those at Ellora and Ajanta, are the best in Maharashtra. Hotels, restaurants and the main road to the caves lie north of the train station (exit from platform 1). Most of the Lonavla township and its markets are located south of the station. The petrol pump opposite Hotel Rama Krishna now has three ATMs dispensing cash. Internet access is available at Balaji

Cyber Café (1st fl, Khandelwal Bldg, New Bazaar; per hr ₹15; h12.30-10.30pm), immediately

south of the train station.

Activities

Founded in 1924, the Kaivalyadhama Yoga Hospital (%273039; www.kdham.com; Indian/ foreigner incl full board ₹9000/US$320), set about

2km from Lonavla en route to the Karla and

Bhaja Caves, combines yoga courses with naturopathic therapies. Room rates cover accommodation, yoga sessions, programs and lectures over seven days. Two-, three- and four-week packages are also oﬀered. Mumbai-based Nirvana Adventures (%022-26053724; www.flynirvana.com) oﬀers various paragliding courses (Indian/ foreigner including full board from ₹6500/€250) or 10-minute tandem flights (₹2000) at Kamshet, 25km from Lonavla.

4 Sleeping & Eating Lonavla’s hotels suﬀer from inflated prices and low standards. All hotels listed here have a 10am check-out. Hotel Adarsh HOTEL $$ (%272353; near Bus Stand; d from ₹2500; as)

This is clearly the best-value place in town. Centrally located, it has smart rooms and good service, and seems to be preferred by local yuppies. The terrace pool gives you another good reason to stay.

Hotel Lonavla HOTEL $$ (%272914; Mumbai-Pune Rd; d from ₹1195) Fan-

only rooms here, but it’s cheap by Lonavla’s standards. Bulk bookings can often leave you without a room, so enquire in advance. They insist that you clear your bills every third day (who stays that long anyway?).

Lonavla & Around

Rajmachi Fort

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Karla Cave Hindu Temple

Tungarli Lake Valvan Dam

Falls

Lonavla Lake

Bhaja Village Mumbai-Pune Expwy Bhaja Caves

Bhushi Dam

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Bedsa Caves

Pawana Dam

INS Shivaji Naval Training Institute Troppo Point

Kamshet Train Station

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10 km 5 miles

Visapur Fort Lohagad Fort

oBiso

ITALIAN $$

(Citrus Hotel, DT Shahani Rd, mains ₹180-220) This

could be a delightfully redeeming feature of your Lonavla trip. A top-class alfresco restaurant thrown around the lawns of a sleek business hotel about 15 minutes east of the bus stand, Biso serves an excellent selection of pastas, wood oven-fired pizzas and desserts for its upmarket clientele. The penne in basil sauce and the farmhouse pizza are dishes you won’t quickly forget.

is famed for its meaty fare, especially the kebabs, and can brim over with travelling parties during meals.

8 Getting There & Away

Lonavla is serviced by MSRTC buses departing the bus stand to Dadar in Mumbai (ordinary/ semideluxe ₹65/94, two hours) and Pune (ordinary/semideluxe ₹55/80, two hours). Luxury AC buses (about ₹130) also travel to both cities. All express trains from Mumbai to Pune (2nd class/chair ₹57/195, three hours) stop at Lonavla train station. From Pune, you can also reach Lonavla by taking an hourly shuttle train (₹15, two hours).

Karla & Bhaja Caves While they pale in comparison to Ajanta or Ellora, these rock-cut caves (dating from around the 2nd century BC) are among the better examples of Buddhist cave architecture in India. They are also low on commercial tourism, which make them ideal places for a quiet excursion. Karla has the most impressive single cave, but Bhaja is a quieter site to explore. Karla Cave CAVES (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h9am-5pm) Karla Cave,

the largest early Buddhist chaitya in India, is reached by a 20-minute climb from a minibazaar at the base of a hill. Completed in 80 BC, the chaitya is around 40m long and 15m high, and sports similar architectural motifs as chaityas in Ajanta and Ellora. Excluding Ellora’s Kailasa Temple, this is probably the most impressive cave temple in the state. Karla Cave is also the only site in Maharashtra where the original woodwork, more than two centuries old, has managed to survive. A semicircular ‘sun window’ filters light in towards a dagoba or stupa (the cave’s representation of the Buddha), protected by

783

Bhaja Caves CAVES (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h8am-6pm) Across the

expressway, it’s a 3km jaunt from the main road to the Bhaja Caves, where the setting is lusher, greener and quieter than at Karla Cave. Thought to date from around 200 BC, 10 of the 18 caves here are viharas, while Cave 12 is an open chaitya, earlier than that at Karla, containing a simple dagoba. Beyond this is a strange huddle of 14 stupas, five inside and nine outside a smaller cave. Once you’re done exploring the Bhaja Caves, you can embark on a trek to the ruined twin-forts of Lohagad and Visapur. You could also check out the picturesque Pawana Dam, down a road about 20km east from the Karla–Bhaja access point.

4 Sleeping & Eating MTDC Karla Resort HOTEL $$ (%02114-282230; d with/without AC from ₹1300/ 900; a) Set oﬀ the highway, close to Karla–

Bhaja access point. Rooms and cottages are well-kept, and there’s a good restaurant.

8 Getting There & Away

Karla and Bhaja can be visited over a single day from Lonavla. Take a local bus (₹10, 30 minutes) to the access point, from where it’s about a 6km return walk on each side to the two sites. An autorickshaw charges about ₹450 from Lonavla for the tour, including waiting time.

Pune % 020 / POP 3.7 MILLION / ELEV 535M

With its healthy mix of small-town wonders and big-city blues, Pune (also pronounced Poona) is a city that epitomises ‘New India’. Once little more than a pensioners’ town and an army outpost, it is today an unpretentious, cosmopolitan place inhabited by a cheerful and happy population. A thriving centre of academia and business, Pune is also known globally for its numero-uno export, the late guru Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh and his ashram, the Osho International Meditation Resort (p785).

SOUTHERN MAHAR ASHTR MAHAR ASHTR A K 8 AR L A & BAH8A J A C AV E S

Hotel Rama Krishna INDIAN $$ (Mumbai-Pune Rd; mains ₹120-150) This place

a carved wooden umbrella, the only remaining example of its kind. The cave’s roof also retains ancient teak buttresses. The 37 pillars forming the aisles are topped by kneeling elephants. The carved elephant heads on the sides of the vestibule once had ivory tusks. There’s a Hindu temple in front of the cave, thronged by pilgrims whose presence adds colour to the scene.

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Pune was initially given pride of place by Shivaji and the ruling Peshwas, who made it their capital. The British took the city in 1817 and, thanks to its cool and dry climate, soon made it the Bombay Presidency’s monsoon capital. Globalisation knocked on Pune’s

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doors in the 1990s, following which it went in for an image overhaul. However, the colonial charm was retained by preserving its old buildings and residential areas, bringing about a pleasant coexistence of the old and new which (despite the pollution and hectic

785

Pune û ü Drinking 18 1000 Oaks...............................................B6 19 Mocha ..................................................... C1

æ Sights 1 Tribal Cultural Museum ........................ C2

ý Entertainment 20 Inox..........................................................A3

ÿ Sleeping 2 Grand Hotel............................................ B4 3 Homeland............................................... A3 4 Hotel Ashirwad ...................................... A3 5 Hotel Ritz................................................ A4 6 Hotel Srimaan .........................................B1 7 Hotel Sunderban ....................................C1 8 Hotel Surya Villa .....................................C1 9 National Hotel ........................................ A3 10 Osho Meditation Resort Guesthouse......................................... C2 11 Samrat Hotel.......................................... A3

þ Shopping 21 Bombay Store ........................................B5 22 Crossword ..............................................A2 Either Or........................................ (see 22) 23 Fabindia ..................................................A2 24 Pune Central........................................... B1

ú Eating 12 Arthur's Theme.......................................D1 Dario's ............................................. (see 7) 13 Flag's ...................................................... B3 14 Juice World ............................................ B5 15 Malaka Spice...........................................D1 16 Place: Touche the Sizzler...................... B4 17 Prem's .....................................................D1

traﬃc) makes Pune a wonderful place to explore. In September Ganesh Chaturthi brings on a tide of festivities across the city, and provides a fantastic window for exploring the city’s cultural side. The city sits at the confluence of the Mutha and Mula Rivers. Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd, about 1km south of Pune train station, is the main commercial street. Koregaon Park, northeast of the train station, is the undisputed chill-out zone, home to some of the best hotels, restaurants, coﬀee shops and of course, the Osho Ashram.

1 Sights & Activities oOsho International Meditation

MEDITATION Resort (%66019999; www.osho.com; 17 Koregaon Park)

You’ll either like it or hate it. A splurge of an institution, this ashram, located in a leafy, upscale northern suburb, has been drawing thousands of sanyasins (seekers), many of them Westerners, ever since the death of Osho (see the boxed text, p786) in 1990. With its placid swimming pool, sauna, ‘zennis’ and

Information 25 Rokshan Travels.....................................B5 26 Thomas Cook .........................................B6 27 Yatra.com ............................................... D1 Transport 28 Brright Travels........................................A3 29 Jet Airways ............................................. B1 30 Kingfisher Airlines ..................................C2 31 PMT Depot..............................................A3 32 Pune Train Station Stand ......................A3 33 Simran Travels ....................................... D1 34 Taxi Stand...............................................A3

basketball courts, massage and beauty parlour, bookshop and a luxury boutique guest house (p787), it is, to some, the ultimate place to indulge in stress-busting meditation. Alternately, there are detractors who point fingers at the ashram’s blatant commercialisation and accuse it of marketing a warped version of the mystic East to gullible Westerners. The main centre for meditation and the nightly white-robed spiritual dance is the Osho Auditorium (no coughing or sneezing, please). The Osho Samadhi, where the guru’s ashes are kept, is also open for meditation. The commune’s ‘Multiversity’ runs a plethora of courses in meditation and other esoteric techniques. If you wish to take part, or even just meditate, you’ll have to pay ₹1150/1550 (Indian/foreigner), which covers registration, a mandatory on-the-spot HIV test (sterile needles used), introductory sessions and your first day’s meditation pass. You’ll also need two robes (one maroon and one white, from ₹200 per robe). For subsequent days, a daily meditation pass costs ₹300/700 (Indian/foreigner), and you can come and go as you please. If you want

SOUTHERN MAHAR ASHTR MAHAR ASHTR A P S IUGN HET S & AACSTI GI VHIT SI E& S AC T I V I T I E S

æ Top Sights Osho International Meditation Resort .................................................. C2

786

MAHAR ASHTR A S O U T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

further involvement, you can also sign up for a ‘work as meditation’ program. The curious can watch a video presentation at the visitor centre and take a 10-minute silent tour of the facilities (₹10; adults only, cameras and phones prohibited) at 9.15am and 2pm daily. Tickets have to be booked at least a day in advance (9.30am to 1pm and 2pm to 4pm). It’s also worth checking out the 5-hectare garden, Osho Teerth (admission free; h6-9am & 3-6pm), behind the commune, and accessible all day for those with a meditation pass.

oRaja Dinkar Kelkar Museum

MUSEUM

(www.rajakelkarmuseum.com; 1377-1378 Natu Baug, Bajirao Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹20/200; h9.30am5.30pm) This fascinating museum is one of

Pune’s true delights. Housing only a fraction of the 20,000-odd objects of Indian daily life painstakingly collected by Dinkar Kelkar (who died in 1990), it’s worth an entire day out. The quirky pan-Indian collection includes hundreds of hookah pipes, writing instruments, lamps, textiles, toys, entire doors and windows, kitchen utensils, furniture, puppets, jewellery, betel-nut cutters and an amazing gallery of musical instruments. During research, the museum was scouting for a new address with more display space, where it could do justice to the vast unseen

portion of the collection currently rotting away in strongrooms. Tribal Cultural Museum MUSEUM (28 Queen’s Garden; admission ₹10; h10.30am5.30pm Mon-Sat) About 1.5km east of the train

station, near the army cantonment, this small museum showcases an excellent collection of tribal artefacts (jewellery, utensils, musical instruments, even black magic accessories) sourced from remote tribal belts. It’s a great place to familiarise yourself with tribal traditions and cultures of the region. Don’t forget to check out the section featuring ornate papier-mâché festival masks, to the rear of the building.

Aga Khan Palace PALACE (Ahmednagar Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h9am5.45pm) Set amid a wooded 6.5-hectare plot

across the Mula River in Yerwada, the grand Aga Khan Palace (housing the Gandhi National Memorial) is easily Pune’s biggest crowd-puller. Built in 1892 by Sultan Aga Khan III, this lofty building was where the Mahatma and other prominent nationalist leaders were interned by the British for about two years following Gandhi’s Quit India resolution in 1942. Both Kasturba Gandhi, the Mahatma’s wife, and Mahadeobhai Desai, his secretary for 35 years, died here in confinement. You’ll find their shrines (containing their ashes) in a quiet garden to the rear.

OSHO: GURU OF SEX Ever tried mixing spirituality with primal instincts, and garnishing the potent concoction with oodles of panache? Well, Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh (1931–90) certainly did. Osho, as he preferred to be called, was one of India’s most flamboyant ‘export gurus’ to market the mystic East to the world, and undoubtedly the most controversial. Initially based in Pune, he followed no particular religion or philosophy, and outraged many across the world with his advocacy of sex as a path to enlightenment. A darling of the international media, he quickly earned himself the epithet ‘sex guru’. In 1981, Rajneesh took his curious blend of Californian pop psychology and Indian mysticism to the USA, where he set up an agricultural commune in Oregon. There, his ashram’s notoriety, as well as its fleet of (material and thus valueless!) Rolls Royces grew, until raging local paranoia about its activities moved the authorities to charge Osho with immigration fraud. He was fined US$400,000 and deported. An epic journey then began, during which Osho and his followers, in their search for a new base, were either deported from or denied entry into 21 countries. By 1987, he was back at his Pune ashram, where thousands of foreigners soon flocked for his nightly discourses and meditation sessions. They still come in droves. To house them all, the capacious Osho Auditorium was unveiled in 2002, which saw the centre’s name being changed from ‘Osho Commune International’ to ‘Osho International Meditation Resort’. Such is the demand for the resort’s facilities that prices are continually on the rise, with luxury being redefined every day. Interestingly, despite Osho’s comments on how nobody should be poor, no money generated by the resort goes into helping the disadvantaged. That, resort authorities maintain, is up to someone else.

Within the main palace, you can peek into the room where Gandhi used to stay. Photos and paintings exhibit moments in his extraordinary career, but it’s poorly presented. Shaniwar Wada FORT (Shivaji Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h8am-6pm)

Katraj Snake Park & Zoo ZOO (Pune–Satara Hwy; adult/child ₹3/2; h10.30am6pm Thu-Tue) There’s a mediocre selection of

Indian wildlife on show at the Katraj Snake Park & Zoo. But a trip to this faraway park on Pune’s southern outskirts makes sense if you want to know more about snakes, of which there are plenty. Pataleshvara Cave Temple TEMPLE (Jangali Maharaj Rd; h6am-9.30pm) Set across

the river is the curious rock-cut Pataleshvara Cave Temple, a small and unfinished (though living) 8th-century temple, similar in style to the grander caves at Elephanta Island oﬀ the Mumbai coast. Adjacent is the Jangali Maharaj Temple (h6am-9.30pm), dedicated to a Hindu ascetic who died here in 1818. Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga YOGA Institute (%25656134; www.bksiyengar.com; 1107 B/1 Hare Krishna Mandir Rd, Model Colony) To attend class-

es at this famous institute, 7km northwest of the train station, you need to have been practising yoga for at least eight years.

4 Sleeping Pune’s main accommodation hubs are around the train station and Koregaon Park. Most midrange hotels have check-out at noon, and accept credit cards. Some families rent out rooms starting at about ₹400 (without bathroom) to around ₹700 (with bathroom). Rickshaw drivers will know where to look.

oHotel Sunderban

HOTEL $$

(%26124949; www.tghotels.com; 19 Koregaon Park; s/d incl breakfast from ₹2500/3000; aW) Set

around a manicured lawn right next to the Osho Resort, this renovated art deco bungalow eﬀortlessly combines classy antiquity with boutique appeal. The huge non-AC

787

oOsho Meditation Resort

HOTEL $$$ Guesthouse (%66019900; www.osho.com; Koregaon Park; s/d ₹3900/4400; a) This uber-chic designer

place will only allow you in if you come to meditate at the Osho International Meditation Resort (p785). The rooms and common spaces in this stylish property are an elegant exercise in modern aesthetics, as minimalist as they are chic. Add to that other ultra luxe features, such as purified fresh air supply in all rooms! Be sure to book well in advance; it’s perpetually rushed. Hotel Surya Villa HOTEL $$ (%26124501; www.hotelsuryavilla.com; 294/2 Koregaon Park; s/d from ₹1200/1500, with AC ₹1600/2000; ai) A cheerful place with

bright, airy and spacious rooms and squeaky-clean loos, this is clearly the best of Pune’s midrange options. It stands just oﬀ the Koregaon Park backpacker hub, so you’re always clued in to the coolest developments in town. There’s free internet for guests at the book kiosk below.

Homeland HOTEL $$ (%26123203; www.hotelhomeland.net; 18 Wilson Garden; s/d ₹900/1100, with AC from ₹1300/1500; a) A surprisingly restful place tucked away

from the din of the train station, Homeland is excellent value for money. The labyrinthine corridors lead to rooms with freshly painted walls and clean sheets, and the restaurant downstairs shows movies in the evenings. Hotel Srimaan HOTEL $$ (%26136565; srimaan@vsnl.com; 361/5 Bund Garden Rd; s/d ₹2200/2900; ai) The fact

that Srimaan has dropped its tariﬀs actually makes this centrally-located place quite a steal. Jackson Pollock-inspired paintings lend their colour to the small but luxurious rooms. The pricier rooms have lovely windows with soothing green views outside. A good Italian joint called La Pizzeria is available on-site.

Samrat Hotel HOTEL $$ (%26137964; thesamrathotel@vsnl.net; 17 Wilson Garden; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1800/2200; aW)

A sparkling modern hotel with excellent

SOUTHERN MAHAR ASHTR MAHAR ASHTR A P S LUEN EEP I N GA S L E E P I N G

The remains of this fortressed palace of the Peshwa rulers are located in the old part of the city. Built in 1732, Shaniwar Wada was destroyed in a fire in 1828, but the massive walls and plinths remain, as do the sturdy palace doors with their daunting spikes. In the evenings, there is an hour-long sound-and-light show (admission ₹25; h8.15pm Thu-Tue).

rooms in the main building sport a variety of dated furniture, and have a generally quaint air. The pricier rooms are across the lawns, in a sleek, glass-fronted building. An additional draw is the fantastic in-house finedining restaurant, Dario’s (see p788).

788

rooms opening around a central, top-lit foyer, this place sure knows how to make you feel at home. The staﬀ is courteous and eager to please, and the well-appointed rooms meet every expectation you could have from hotels in this price bracket. Westin HOTEL $$$ (%67210000; www.starwoodhotels.com; 36/3B Koregaon Park Annexe; d incl breakfast from ₹6000; aWs) Sprawled out like a giant luxury

MAHAR ASHTR A S O U T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

yacht on Koregaon Park’s eastern fringes is this mint-fresh business hotel, combining the best of luxury and leisure with impeccable service. The rooms oﬀer lovely views of the river course below.

Hotel Ritz HOTEL $$ (%26122995; fax 26136644; 6 Sadhu Vaswani Path; s/d incl breakfast from ₹2550/2750; a) Plush,

friendly, atmospheric: three words that sum it all up for the Ritz, a Raj-era building that holds its own in town. The pricey rooms are in the main building, while the cheaper ones are located in an annexe next to the garden restaurant, which serves good Gujarati and Maharashtrian food.

National Hotel HOTEL $ (%26125054; 14 Sasoon Rd; s/d/q ₹750/850/1100, cottages s/d/q ₹650/750/950) What the Na-

tional can’t provide in terms of comfort, it compensates for with antique charm. Housed in a crumbling colonial-era mansion opposite the train station, the low-end rooms in this hotel can border on suﬀocating, and may not match your idea of ‘clean’. The cottages across the garden are more liveable, and come with tiled sit-outs. Grand Hotel HOTEL $ (%26360728; grandhotelpune@gmail.com; MG Rd; d from ₹770, s without bathroom ₹290) Well, it’s

anything but grand at this budget address. The cheapest beds here (and in all of Pune) are a series of hole-in-the-wall cabins next to the bar. The doubles are converted family homes, not the most luxurious of their kind either. But then, look at how much you’re paying, and take comfort in the fact that the patio is a great place to nurse an evening beer.

Hotel Ashirwad HOTEL $$ (%26128687; hotelashir@gmail.com; 16 Connaught Rd; s/d from ₹3500/4000; aW) A large,

smooth-moving joint, this place stands out for its well-kept (though unremarkable) rooms and the popular Akshaya vegetarian

restaurant downstairs, which serves a good range of Punjabi and Mughlai fare.

5 Eating Pune is a great place for those with an adventurous palate. Predictably, there are a host of well-priced, high-quality eateries, many around Koregaon Park. Unless otherwise mentioned, the following are open noon to 3pm and 7pm to 11pm daily; last orders at 10.45pm.

oMalaka Spice

ASIAN FUSION $$

(Lane 5, North Main Rd, Koregaon Park; mains ₹220250) A definitive stop on Pune’s food cir-

cuit, this upscale alfresco restaurant serves mouth-watering Southeast Asian fare that is given a creative tweak or two by its star chefs. Dishes such as the squid and broccoli tauche, or the burnt garlic and shrimp rice, are simply to die for. There’s a souvenir shop too, if you’d like to buy something to remember your hearty meal here.

oPrem’s

MULTICUISINE $$

(North Main Rd, Koregaon Park; mains ₹180-220; h8am-11pm) In a quiet, tree-canopied court-

yard tucked away behind a commercial block, Prem’s is perfect for those lazy, beer-aided lunch sessions that great holidays are centred around. Its relaxed ambience attracts droves of loyalists throughout the day, who slouch around the tables and put away countless pints before wolfing down their ‘usual’ orders. The noisy sizzlers are a hit with everyone, so don’t leave without trying one. Dario’s ITALIAN $$ (Hotel Sunderban; mains ₹250-280) This bistro

serves only the best of Italian cuisine, made from a selection of local organic produce and handpicked rations flown straight in from Italy. There’s a yummy selection of homemade penne, gnocchi and spaghetti on oﬀer, while dishes such as the torta bombardino (onion quiche with fresh salad) explode on your palate with a hundred flavours. Flag’s MULTICUISINE $$ (G2 Metropole, Bund Garden Rd; mains ₹230-250)

This super-popular place serves timeless favourites from all corners of the world with Lebanese chicken, Mongolian cauliflower, New Orleans seafood platter and yakisoba (fried Japanese noodles) all rubbing shoulders under one roof. There’s also a super-hot lunch buﬀet that goes for a super-cool ₹249.

Vaishali FAST FOOD $ (FC Rd; mains ₹40-70; h10am-10pm) Old-timers

can’t stop raving about this institution, known for its range of delicious snacks and meals. The scrumptious sev potato dal puri (₹45), a favourite of locals, has fed generations of college-goers in Pune, and still garners respect across the board. Arthur’s Theme CONTINENTAL $$ (Lane 6, North Main Rd, Koregaon Park; mains ₹200-230) Start oﬀ with Don Quixote (deep

Juice World CAFE $ (2436/B East St; snacks ₹50-60; h8am-11.30pm)

As well as producing delicious fresh fruit juices and shakes, this casual cafe with outdoor seating serves inexpensive but wholesome snacks such as pizza and pav bhaji (spiced vegetables and bread). The Place: Touche the MULTICUISINE $$ Sizzler (7 Moledina Rd; mains ₹180-200) The perfect

old-school eating option. A variety of smoking sizzlers, and other assorted Indian fare, is on oﬀer at this family-style eatery in the heart of Pune’s business district. The ambience is quaint (read: slightly mothballed), but the overall experience more than makes up for it. Swiss Cheese Garden CONTINENTAL $$ (ABC Farms; mains ₹250-300) About a kilome-

tre east of Koregaon Park, this restaurant leads a pack of smart eateries (many advocating organic food) situated within a leafy campus called ABC Farms. The pastas and the cheese fondues are good.

Drinking & Entertainment

Pune puts a great deal of eﬀort into its nocturnal activities, yet some pubs tend to shut up shop as quickly as they open, so ask around for the latest hot spots. Most are open from 7pm to around 1.30am. 1000 Oaks NIGHTCLUB (2417 East St) This one is an old favourite

among Pune’s tipplers, featuring a cosy pub-style bar, a compact dance floor and a charming, foliaged and moodily lit sit-out area for those who prefer it quieter. There’s

789

Mocha CAFE (North Main Rd, Koregaon Park) This funky café

with quirky decor and friendly staff features a brilliant selection of coffees from around the world, from the famed Jamaican Blue Mountain to Indian Peaberry. There are flavoured hookahs on offer too. Carry some form of ID to show at the gate. Arc Asia (ABC Farms) An extremely classy affair,

BAR

rounding off the ABC Farms experience. A great stock of malts, scotches and beers, with groovy music on the PA.

Inox CINEMA (Bund Garden Rd) A state-of-the-art mul-

tiplex where you can take in the latest blockbuster from Hollywood or Mumbai.

Shopping

Pune has some good shopping options. Bombay Store SOUVENIRS (322 MG Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) The

best spot for general souvenirs.

Pune Central CLOTHING (Bund Garden Rd, Koregaon Park) This glass-

fronted mall is full of Western high-street labels and premium Indian tags.

Crossword BOOKSTORE (1st fl, Sohrab Hall, RBM Rd, h10.30am-9pm) An

excellent collection of fiction, nonfiction and magazines.

Either Or CLOTHING (24/25 Sohrab Hall, 21 Sasoon Rd; h10.30am8pm Fri-Wed) Modern designer Indian

garments and accessories available at this popular boutique.

Fabindia CLOTHING (Sakar 10, Sasson Rd, h10am-8pm) For Indian

saris, silks and cottons, as well as diverse accessories and handmade products.

8 Information

Internet Access You’ll find several internet cafes along Pune’s main thoroughfares. Arihant Communications (North Main Rd, Koregaon Park; per hr ₹30; h9am-11pm) Opposite Lane 5. Lightning-fast broadband connection. Maps Destination Finder (₹65) provides a great map of the city, along with some key travel information.

SOUTHERN MAHAR GI& MAHAR ASHTR A P DU RN IASHTR NEK I N GA&DERNI N T EKRI NTA N ME ENNT TE R TA I N M E N T

fried cheese croquettes) or Cleopatra (grilled chicken cubes), before moving on to King Morgan (tiger prawns in herbs and olive oil) or Lancelot (chicken in cranberry sauce). A wacky (and tasty) way to brush up on your history lessons.

live music on Sundays, to go with your favourite poison.

790

Money Citibank has a 24-hour ATM on North Main Rd. HSBC dispenses cash at its main branch on Bund Garden Rd. You’ll find ICICI Bank and State Bank of India ATMs at the railway station, an Axis Bank ATM on MG Rd and an HDFC Bank ATM on East St. Thomas Cook (% 66007903; 2418 G Thimmaya Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Cashes travellers cheques and exchanges foreign currency.

MAHAR ASHTR A S O U T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

Post Main post office (Sadhu Vaswani Path; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) DHL (Bund Garden Rd; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat) Tourist information MTDC tourist office (%26126867; I Block, Central Bldg, Dr Annie Besant Rd; h10am5.30pm Mon-Sat) Buried in a government complex south of the train station. There’s also an MTDC desk at the train station (h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sunday). Travel Agencies Rokshan Travels (%26136304; rokshantravels @hotmail.com; 1st fl, Kumar Plaza, MG Rd; h10am-6pm) These guys shine when it comes to getting you on the right bus, train or flight without a glitch. They also book taxis. Yatra.com (% 65006748; www.yatra.com; North Main Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) The city office of the reputed internet ticketing site of the same name.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Airline contact information in Pune: GoAir (airline code G8; % 9223222111; www.goair.in) Indian Airlines (airline code IC; %26052147; www.indian-airlines.nic.in; 39 Dr B Ambedkar Rd) IndiGo (airline code 6E; % 9910383838; www.goindigo.in)

Jet Airways (airline code 9W; % 02239893333; www.jetairways.com; 243 Century Arcade, Narangi Baug Rd) Kingfisher Airlines (airline code IT; %1800 2333131; www.flykingfisher.com; Gera Garden, Koregaon Rd) SpiceJet (airline code SG; %1800 1803333; www.spicejet.com) Airlines listed above fly daily from Pune to Delhi (from ₹3100, two hours), Bengaluru (from ₹2200, 1½ hours), Nagpur (from ₹2100, 1½ hours), Goa (from ₹3500, 1½ hours), Chennai (from ₹2300, 1½ hours) and hopping flights to Kolkata (from ₹3500, four hours). Bus Pune has three bus stands: Pune train station stand for Mumbai, Goa, Belgaum, Kolhapur, Mahabaleshwar and Lonavla; Shivaji Nagar bus stand for Aurangabad, Ahmedabad and Nasik; and Swargate bus stand for Sinhagad, Bengaluru and Mangalore. Deluxe buses shuttle from the train-station bus stand to Dadar (Mumbai) every hour (₹260, four hours). Several private buses head to Panaji (Panjim) in Goa (ordinary/sleeper ₹330/450, 12 hours), Nasik (semideluxe/deluxe ₹180/280, five hours) and Aurangabad (₹170, six hours). Try Brright Travels (%26114222; Connaught Rd). Taxi Share taxis (up to four passengers) link Pune with Mumbai airport around the clock. They leave from the taxi stand in front of Pune train station (per seat ₹500, 2½ hours). Several tour operators hire out long-distance taxis over days or even weeks for intrastate travelling. Try Simran Travels (%26153222; North Main Rd, Koregaon Park). Train The computerised booking hall is to the left of Pune’s main station building. The 7.15am Deccan Queen, 6.05am Sinhagad Express and 6.35pm Indrayani Express are fast commuter trains to

MAJOR TRAINS FROM PUNE DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

DEPARTURE

Bengaluru

16529 Udyan Exp

330/1232

11.45am

Chennai

12163 Chennai Exp

371/1348

19½

12.10am

Delhi

11077 Jhelum Exp

430/1624

5.20pm

Hyderabad

17031 Hyderabad Exp

246/910

13½

4.35pm

Mumbai CST

12124 Deccan Queen

67/237

3½

7.15am

Express fares are sleeper/2AC; Deccan Queen fares are 2nd class/chair. To calculate 1st class and other fares see p1187.

Mumbai (2nd class/chair ₹67/237, 3½ hours). For other long-distance trains, see the boxed text, opposite.

8 Getting Around

Around Pune SINHAGAD The ruined Sinhagad (admission free; hdawndusk) or Lion Fort, about 24km southwest of

Pune, was wrested by Maratha leader Shivaji from the Bijapur kings in 1670. In the epic battle (where he lost his son Sambhaji), Shivaji used monitor lizards yoked with ropes to scale the fort’s craggy walls. Today, it’s a sad picture of its past, but worth visiting for the sweeping views. From Sinhagad village, share jeeps (₹40) can cart you 10km to the base of the summit. Bus 50 runs frequently to Sinhagad village from Swargate (₹20, 45 minutes). SHIVNERI

Situated 90km northwest of Pune above the village of Junnar, Shivneri Fort (admission free; hdawn-dusk) holds the distinction of being the birthplace of Shivaji. Within the ramparts of this ruined fort are the old royal stables, a mosque dating back to the Mughal era and several rock-cut reservoirs. The most important structure is Shivkunj, the pavilion in which Shivaji was born. About 4km from Shivneri, on the other side of Junnar, is an interesting group of Hinayana Buddhist caves called Lenyadri (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; hdawn-dusk). Of the 30-odd caves, Cave 7 is the most impressive, and interestingly houses an image of the Hindu lord Ganesh. A bus (₹70, two hours, 7.15am) goes to Junnar from Pune’s Shivaji Nagar terminus. A return bus leaves Junnar at 11.30am. A day cab from Pune will cost around ₹1600.

% 02168 / POP 12,700 / ELEV 1372M

Up in the Western Ghats, Mahabaleshwar – founded in 1828 by British governor Sir John ‘Boy’ Malcolm – was, at one time, the summer capital of the Bombay presidency. However, what was once a pretty town oozing old-world charm is today a jungle of mindless urban construction. Swarms of raucous holiday-makers who throw the place into a complete tizzy only make things worse. Mahabaleshwar’s only face-saver is the delightful views it oﬀers, but they’re not half as good in practice, given that you’ll have to combat the riotous tourists while appreciating them. The hill station virtually shuts down during the monsoons (June to September), when an unbelievable 6m of rain falls. The action can be found in the main bazaar (Main Rd, also called Dr Sabane Rd) – a 200m strip of holiday tack. The bus stand is at the western end. You have to cough up a ₹20 ‘tourist tax’ on arrival.

1 Sights & Activities Viewpoints

VIEWPOINT

The hills are alive with music, though it’s usually blasted out of car stereos as people race to tick off all the viewpoints. To beat them, start very early in the morning, and you can savour fine views from Wilson’s Point (Sunrise Point), within easy walking distance of town, as well as Elphinstone, Babington, Kate’s and Lodwick Points. The sunset views at Bombay Point are stunning; but you won’t be the only one thinking so! Much quieter, thanks to being 9km from town, is Arthur’s Seat, on the edge of a 600m cliff. Attractive waterfalls around Mahabaleshwar include Chinaman’s, Dhobi’s and Lingmala Falls. A nice walk out of town is the two-hour stroll to Bombay Point, and then following Tiger Trail back in (maps are available from the MTDC tourist office).

T Tours Leaving the bus stand thrice from 2.15pm, the MSRTC conducts a Mahabaleshwar sightseeing round (₹80, 4½ hours) taking in nine viewpoints plus Old Mahabaleshwar. Alternatively, taxi drivers will give a three-hour tour for about ₹500. Tours are also available to lookout points south of town (₹400, 2½ hours), Panchgani (₹450, three hours) and Pratapgad Fort (₹500, three hours).

SOUTHERN MAHAR ASHTR MAHAR ASHTR A A 8 RO U N D PAU 8N E

The airport is 8km northeast of the city, and boasts a swanky new building. An autorickshaw there costs about ₹100; a taxi is ₹250. Autorickshaws can be found everywhere. A ride from the train station to Koregaon Park costs about ₹35 (₹60 at night). Turtle-paced city buses leave the PMT depot (opposite Pune train station) for Swargate (bus 4) and Shivaji Nagar (bus 5) and Koregaon Park (bus 159). Some garages in Koregaon Park hire out motorcycles for ₹300 a day, petrol extra. The boys hanging out at Hotel Surya Villa will know where to look.

791

Mahabaleshwar

792

4 Sleeping & Eating Hotel prices soar during weekends and peak holidays (November to June). At other times you might get hefty discounts. Most hotels are around the main bazaar, while dozens of resort-style lodges are scattered around the village. Check out is usually at 8am or 9am. Hotel Panorama HOTEL $$ (%260404; www.panoramaresorts.net; Main Rd; d with/without AC from ₹3500/3000; as) Busi-

MAHAR ASHTR A S O U T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

ness meets leisure at Mahabaleshwar’s most reputed midtown luxury address. Very professionally managed, it boasts clean, comfy and tastefully appointed rooms, and there’s some great grub at the restaurant. There’s a dunk-sized pool, and a water channel where you might want to ride swan-headed paddle boats. MTDC Resort HOTEL $ (%260318; Bombay Point Rd; d from ₹700) This

large-scale operation is situated about 2km southwest from town, and comes with quieter and greener surroundings. Rooms smack of government aesthetics, but it’s cheap, so all’s forgiven. Taxis can drop you here from the city centre for about ₹80. Hotel Vyankatesh HOTEL $$ (%260575; hotelvkt@yahoo.com; Main Rd; d ₹1500) A typically overpriced hotel cashing

in on Mahabaleshwar’s never-ending tourism boom. Located behind a souvenir store, this place has slightly dreary rooms, but so have lots of hotels around town.

oGrapevine

MULTICUISINE $$

(Masjid Rd; mains ₹140-160) Skip this place, and

you’ve missed half the fun in town. Tucked pleasantly away behind the main drag, this tiny eatery serves a delectable range of Indian, Continental and Thai dishes, along with some excellent Parsi fare including the signature dhansak. A charming wroughtiron table set-up tastefully lends the interiors a Mediterranean air, and the restaurant

SOLO BLUES If you’re a single traveller, do not schedule a night in Mahabaleshwar. Local laws bar hotels from renting out rooms to loners, especially men. Make sure you have an early departure plan in place, even if you visit for the day.

also boasts a smart wine list to complement your food. Hotel Rajmahal INDIAN (Main Rd; mains ₹50-70) A good place to dig

Aman Restaurant INDIAN (Main Rd; mains ₹80-100) Little more than

into some lip-smacking veg delights.

a roadside stall, Aman can pull out some amazing kebabs and other meaty bites.

8 Information

State Bank of India (Main Rd; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-1pm Sat) Handles foreign currency. Bank of Baroda Has an ATM on Masjid Rd. RB Travels (%260251; Main Rd) Local tours, ticketing, taxi hire and bus services. Joshi’s Newspaper Agency (Main Rd; per hr ₹50; h10am-7pm) Slow internet access. MTDC tourist office (%260318; Bombay Point Rd) At the MTDC Resort south of town.

8 Getting There & Away

From the bus stand state buses leave regularly for Pune (semideluxe ₹123, 3½ hours) via Panchgani (₹15, 30 minutes). There’s one ordinary bus to Goa (₹274, eight hours, 8.30am) via Kolhapur (₹139, five hours), while seven buses ramble oﬀ to Mumbai Central Station (ordinary/ semideluxe ₹174/234, seven hours). Private agents in the bazaar book luxury buses to destinations within Maharashtra, and Goa (seat/sleeper ₹600/800, 12 hours, with a changeover at Surur). Remember to ask where they intend to drop you. Buses to Mumbai (₹450, 6½ hours) generally don’t go beyond Borivali, while those bound for Pune (₹230) will bid you adieu at Swargate.

8 Getting Around

Taxis and Maruti vans near the bus stand will take you to the main viewpoints or to Panchgani; you can haggle. Cycling is also an option, but be careful of speeding traﬃc especially on the outskirts. Bikes can be hired from Vasant Cycle Mart (Main Rd; h8am-8pm) for ₹50 per day.

Around Mahabaleshwar PRATAPGAD FORT The windy Pratapgad Fort (maintenance fee ₹5; h7am-7pm), built by Shivaji in 1656,

straddles a high mountain ridge 24km west of Mahabaleshwar. In 1659, Shivaji agreed to meet Bijapuri General Afzal Khan here, in an attempt to end a stalemate. Despite

793

BERRIES, ANYONE? Fruity Mahabaleshwar is India’s berry-growing hub, producing some of the country’s finest strawberries, raspberries and gooseberries. Harvested from November to June, the best crops come around February and can be bought fresh at Mahabaleshwar’s bazaar. You can also pick up fruit drinks, sweets, squashes, fudges or jams from reputed farms such as Mapro Gardens (%02168240112; h10am-1pm & 2pm-6.30pm), halfway between Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani.

RAIGAD FORT

Some 80km from Mahabaleshwar, all alone on a high and remote hilltop, stands the enthralling Raigad Fort (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h8am-5.30pm). Having served as Shivaji’s capital from 1648 until his death in 1680, the fort was later sacked by the British, and some colonial structures added. But monuments such as the royal court, plinths of royal chambers, the main marketplace and Shivaji’s tomb still remain, and it’s worth a daylong excursion. You can hike a crazy 1475 steps to the top. But for a more ‘levitating’ experience, take the vertigo-inducing ropeway (h8.30am5.30pm), which zooms up the cliﬀ and offers an eagle-eye view of the deep gorges below. A return ticket costs ₹160. Guides (₹200) are available within the fort complex. Sarja Restaurant (mains ₹30), adjoining the ropeway’s base terminal, is a good place for lunch or snacks. Public transport to Raigad is infrequent, so it’s best to hire a cab at Mahabaleshwar (₹1300). Squeeze both Pratapgad and Raigad into your day’s itinerary, and you’ve got a deal.

Kolhapur % 0231 / POP 505,500 / ELEV 550M

A rarely-visited town, Kolhapur is the perfect place to get up close and personal with the flamboyant side of India. Only a few

hours from Goa, this historic town boasts an intensely fascinating temple complex and a friendly population. In August, Kolhapur is at its vibrant best, when Naag Panchami, a snake-worshipping festival, is held in tandem with one at Pune. Gastronomes take note: the town is also the birthplace of the famed, spicy Kolhapuri cuisine, especially chicken and mutton dishes. The old town around the Mahalaxmi Temple is 3km southwest of the bus and train stations, while the ‘new’ palace is a similar distance to the north. Rankala Lake, a popular spot for evening strolls, is 5km southwest of the stations.

1 Sights oShree Chhatrapati Shahu Museum (Indian/foreigner ₹13/30;

MUSEUM

h9.30am-5.30pm)

‘Bizarre’ takes on a whole new meaning at this ‘new’ palace, an Indo-Saracenic behemoth designed by British architect ‘Mad’ Charles Mant for the Kolhapur kings in 1884. The ground floor houses a madcap museum, featuring countless trophies from the eponymous king’s trigger-happy jungle safaris, which were put to some ingenious uses, including walking sticks made from leopard vertebrae, and ashtrays fashioned out of tiger skulls and rhino feet. Then, there’s an armoury, which houses enough weapons to stage a mini coup. The horrorhouse eﬀect is brought full circle by the taxidermy section. However, don’t forget to visit the durbar hall, a rather ornate aﬀair, where the kings once held court sessions. Photography is strictly prohibited.

Old Town

AREA

Kolhapur’s atmospheric old town is built around the lively and colourful Mahalaxmi Temple (h5am-10.30pm) dedicated to Amba Bai, or the Mother Goddess. The temple’s origins date back to AD 10, and it’s one of the most important Amba Bai temples in India. Non-Hindus are welcome. Nearby, past a foyer

SOUTHERN MAHAR MAHAR ASHTR A KO S I GLASHTR HHTASP U RA S I G H T S

a no-arms agreement, Shivaji, upon greeting Khan, disembowelled his enemy with a set of iron baghnakh (tiger’s claws). Khan’s tomb (out of bounds) marks the site of this painful encounter at the base of the fort. Pratapgad is reached by a 500-step climb that aﬀords brilliant views. Guides are available for ₹150. The state bus (₹80 return, one hour, 9.30am) does a daily shuttle from Mahabaleshwar, with a waiting time of around one hour. A return taxi ride is about ₹500.

in the Old Palace, is Bhavani Mandap (h6am8pm), dedicated to the goddess Bhavani.

MAHAR ASHTR A S O U T H E R N M A H A R A S H T R A

Kolhapur is famed for the calibre of its wrestlers and at the Motibag Thalim, a courtyard beside the entrance to Bhavani Mandap, young athletes train in a muddy pit. You are free to walk in and watch, as long as you don’t mind the sight of sweaty, semi-naked men and the stench of urine emanating from the loos. Professional matches are held between June and December in the Kasbagh Maidan, a red-earth arena a short walk south of Motibag Thalim. Shopaholics, meanwhile, can browse for the renowned Kolhapuri leather sandals, prized the world over for their intricate needlework. Most designs are priced from ₹300 to ₹500. The break-in blisters on your feet come free.

4 Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Tourist HOTEL $ (%2650421; www.hoteltourist.co.in; Station Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹700/900; a) Recently giv-

en a facelift, this is one of the nicest places on the main street, and is acclaimed for its excellent service. Cosy though minimalist rooms oﬀer great value (especially the AC ones), and there’s an excellent restaurant serving great veg food.

Hotel Pavillion HOTEL $$ (%2652751; www.hotelpavillion.co.in; 392 Assembly Rd; s/d ₹950/1150, with AC from ₹1300/1450; ai) Located at the far end of a leafy park-

cum-oﬃce area, this place guarantees a peaceful stay in large, clean rooms with windows that open out to delightful views of seasonal blossoms. It’s very close to the MTDC oﬃce. Hotel Pearl HOTEL $$ (%6684451; hotelpearl@yahoo.com; New Shahupuri; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1900/2100; ai)

Modelled on big-city business hotels, this place has good rooms, a spa, a travel desk and a decent multicuisine restaurant.

Surabhi INDIAN (Hotel Sahyadri Bldg; mains ₹70-80) A great

place to savour Kolhapur’s legendary snacks such as the spicy misal (similar to bhelpuri), thalis and lassi. Saawan Dining Hall, located alongside, serves non-veg food.

8 Information

Axis Bank has a 24-hour ATM near Mahalaxmi Temple. SBI has a 24-hour ATM on Indumati Rd, parallel to Station Rd. Internet Zone (Kedar Complex, Station Rd; per hr ₹20; h8am-11pm) Internet access. MTDC tourist office (%2652935; Assembly Rd; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Opposite the Collector’s Office. State Bank of India (Udyamnagar; h10am2pm Mon-Sat) A short autorickshaw ride southwest of the train station near Hutatma Park. Handles foreign exchange.

8 Getting There & Around

Autorickshaws are abundant in Kolhapur and most drivers are honest with their billing. Most carry conversion charts to calculate fares from outdated meters. From the bus stand, services head regularly to Pune (semideluxe/deluxe ₹228/390, five hours) and Ratnagiri (ordinary/semideluxe ₹100/135, four hours). Most private bus agents are on the western side of the square at Mahalaxmi Chambers, across from the bus stand. Overnight services with AC head to Mumbai (seat/sleeper ₹380/650, nine hours) and non-AC overnighters go to Panaji (₹210, 5½ hours). The train station is 10 minutes’ walk west of the bus stand. Three daily expresses, including the 10.50pm Sahyadri Express, zoom to Mumbai (sleeper/2AC ₹227/832, 13 hours) via Pune (₹161/574, eight hours). The Rani Chennama Express makes the long voyage to Bengaluru (sleeper/2AC ₹294/1097, 17½ hours, 2.20pm). Services at Kolhapur airport were suspended in mid-2010 due to safety concerns.

Goa Panaji (Panjim) . . . . 800 Old Goa . . . . . . . . . . . 807 Ponda & Around. . . . 809 Mapusa . . . . . . . . . . . .810 Calangute & Baga . . .813 Anjuna . . . . . . . . . . . . .818 Vagator & Chapora . .821 Morjim & Asvem . . . 823 Mandrem . . . . . . . . . . 823 Arambol (Harmal) . . 824 Chandor . . . . . . . . . . .827 Palolem & Around . . 832

Why Go? It’s green, it’s glistening and it’s gorgeous: just three of the reasons why Goa has allured travellers for decades. Two million visitors come each year for the silken sand, crystalline shores, cocohut culture and susegad d – a Portuguese-derived term that translates loosely to ‘laid-backness’. But there’s more to discover here than the pleasure of warm sand between your toes. Goa is as beautiful and culturally rich as it is tiny and hassle-free, so you can go birdwatching in a butterfly-filled forest, marvel at centuries-old cathedrals, venture out to white-water waterfalls or meander the capital’s charming alleyways, all in between lazy beach days (or weeks). Pour in a dash of Portuguese-influenced food and architecture, infuse with a colourful blend of religious traditions, pepper with parties, and you’ve got a heady mix that makes Goa easy to enjoy and extremely hard to leave.

Best Places to Eat » Upper House (p805)

» Le Poisson Rouge (p816) » Thalassa (p822)

» Seasonal beach shacks (all over) » Plantain Leaf (p816)

When to Go Goa (Panaji) °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

16/400

Best Places to Stay » Nilaya Hermitage (p816) » Mayfair Hotel (p804)

» Marbella Guest House (p812)

» Backwoods Camp (p810) » Dunes (p824)

0/32

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Early Nov The rains are over and the waterfalls are full – but the beaches aren’t.

Early Dec Festivals galore and great weather, just before the highpeak prices and crowds.

Mar Carnival. Enough said.

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Tiny Dabolim Airport handles all flights, Margao Railway Station is the state’s largest and best connected, and Mapusa and Panaji bus terminals are your best bet for long-distance rides.

Fast Facts » Population: 1.5 million » Area: 3701 sq km

» Capital: Panaji (Panjim)

» Telephone code: %0832

» Main languages: Konkani, Marathi, English and Hindi » Sleeping prices: $ below ₹1000, $$ ₹1000 to ₹2500, $$$ above ₹2500

Top Tip Don’t swim wasted! And stay away during Christmas and New Year’s, when the parties are raging but so are the prices and the hordes.

Resources » Goa Tourism (www.goa -tourism.com) Good background and tour info.

» Goa World (www.goa -world.com) General info on Goan culture. » Goa’s English dailies (www.navhindtimes.in, www.oheraldo.in) For the news.

Food Goans tend to be hearty meat and fish eaters, and fresh seafood is a staple, as is the quintessential Goan lunch ‘fishcurry-rice’: fried mackerel steeped in coconut, tamarind and chilli sauce. The good, genuine cooking can be hard to find in the tourist areas, but hunt around and you’ll be rewarded with your best souvenir: memories of a stellar vindaloo (fiery dish in a marinade of vinegar and garlic) or xacuti (a spicy chicken or meat dish cooked in red coconut sauce).

DON’T MISS There’s little chance of missing the beach – it’s spectacular and it’s everywhere – but don’t give in to the temptation to laze on it nonstop. Yoga is ubiquitous in Goa – in both long-course and short-class form – and even for dabblers, it’s the perfect yin to beachlounging’s yang. Palolem has lots of trekking and even canyoning opportunities, and birds, forests and waterfalls are just waiting to be enjoyed inland. Goa has a fascinating history that also shouldn’t be missed: set aside some time to explore evocative Panaji (Panjim), Old Goa, Quepem and Chandor.

Top State Festivals » Feast of the Three Kings (6 Jan, Chandor, p827) Boys reenact the story of the three kings bearing gifts for Christ. » Shigmotsav (Shigmo) of Holi (Feb/Mar, statewide) Goa’s version of the Hindu festival Holi sees coloured powders thrown about and parades in most towns. » Sabado Gordo (Feb/Mar, Panaji, p800) A procession of floats and street parties on the Saturday before Lent. » Carnival (Mar, statewide) A four-day festival kicking off Lent; the party’s particularly jubilant in Panaji. » Fama de Menino Jesus (2nd Mon in Oct, Colva, p830) Colva’s Menino Jesus statue is paraded through town. » International Film Festival of India (Nov, Panaji, p800) Film screenings and Bollywood glitterati everywhere.

» Feast of St Francis Xavier (3 Dec, Panaji, p800, Old Goa, p807) A celebration of Goa’s patron saint; once every decade (the next one is 2014), the saint’s body is carried through Old Goa’s streets.

» Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception (8 Dec, Margao, p825, Panaji, p800) Fairs and concerts are held, as is a beautiful church service at Panaji’s Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception.

Pernem Train Station Arambol (Harmal)

hap

Mandrem

Chapora

Mapusa

Assagao Arpora

Anjuna Baga

MAHARASHTRA

Thivim Train Station (Mapusa Rd)

Asvem Beach Morjim Beach Vagator

Goa Highlights

River ora

Bicholim

Aldona

Sanquelim Saligao

Calangute

Torda

Chorao Island

Candolim

Sinquerim Beach Fort Aguada

Ribandar

Dona Paula

Mormugao Dabolim Airport

Pequeno Island Sao Jorge Island

r OId Goa Karmali (Old Goa) Panaji Train Station (Panjim) Savoi Plantation Usgao Goa Velha Manguesh Tropical Temple Spice Plantation Agassaim Mahalsa Ponda To Backwards Temple Cortalim Camp (12km) Dabolim Shantadurga Sahakari Temple Spice Farm Verna Train Station Velsao Verna Beach Cansaulim Train Station

Loutolim

Zuar

Grande Island

Majorda

River

Margao (Madgaon)

Colva

Sal

Benaulim

Varca

Chandor To Dudhsagar Falls (20km)

r Quepem

Chinchinim Cavelossim Assolna

Cuncolim

Mobor

Bali Train Station

Betul

SEA

NH17

ilway an Ra

Konk

Cabo da Rama

ARABIAN Agonda Palolem

Canacona Island Patnem Beach

Chaudi Canacona Train Station Masher

0 0

20 km 12 miles

1 Wander the Portuguese quarters of Panaji (Panjim; p800) and linger over lunch at one of its ravishing restaurants 2 Indulge in barefoot luxury on quiet white-sand beaches in the stateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleepy southern stretches

3 Open up your chakras while doing yoga to the rhythm of ocean waves and swaying palms 4 Dream of times

gone by in the mansions of Quepem (p829) and Chandor (p827)

5 Shiver in the shadows of grand cathedrals and observe the countryside from a hilltop chapel in Old Goa (p807) 6 Feel the wind in

your hair while you ride your bicycle or scooter through palm-tree jungles and rice-paddy fields

7 Worship the sun away from the northern crowds on the beautiful beach at Mandrem (p823)

GOA

Coco Beach Miramar

Divar Island

797

798

History

GOA

Goa went through a dizzying array of rulers from Ashoka’s Mauryan empire in the 3rd century BC to the long-ruling Kadambas, who in AD 1054 moved their capital from present-day Chandor to a new settlement called Govepuri, today’s little village of Goa Velha. The centuries following saw much conflict, with the Muslim Delhi sultanate and then Bahmani sultanate fighting the Hindu Vijayanagar empire for control; these were violent times, and in addition to many, deaths, Hindu temples were also razed. (Tiny Tambdi Surla temple, constructed during the Kadamba reign, was the only one to survive.) The Adil Shahs of Bijapur, formerly part of the Bahmani sultanate, created the capital we now call Old Goa in the 15th century. The Portuguese arrived in 1510, seeking control of the region’s lucrative spice routes by way of Goa’s wide natural harbours and plentiful waterways. They defeated the Bijapur kings and steadily pushed their power from their grand capital at Old Goa out into the provinces. (The Goa State Museum in Panaji has lots of interesting artefacts from this period.) Soon after, Portuguese rule and religion spread throughout the state – sometimes by force – and the Goan Inquisition brought repression and brutality in the name of Christianity. It was not until 1961, when the Indian army marched into Goa, that almost five centuries of Portuguese occupation finally came to an end on the subcontinent.

Today Goa enjoys one of India’s highest per-capita incomes and comparatively high health and literacy rates, with tourism, ironore mining, agriculture and fishing forming the basis of its economy. The legacy of the Portuguese can still be found almost everywhere, in the state’s scores of old mansions, its cuisine, its churches and even in its language; it’s rare nowadays, but if you keep an ear out you may hear elderly people conversing in Portuguese. Climate

The annual monsoon used to scour Goa’s beaches clean between June and the end of September reliably, but things have gone a little haywire in recent years, and sometimes the monsoon can end as late as November. In general, though, the tourist season stretches from mid-November to mid-April, with December to February proving the most pleasant (and busiest) time to visit. Temperatures and humidity increase after February. Out of season, between April and October, you’ll find most coastal resorts deserted, though towns such as Panaji, Mapusa and Margao chug on as usual.

Activities

Goa has, of late, become Activity Central, with a whole host of options for yoga and alternative therapies, water sports and wildlife -watching. Many outfits change annually, so we’ve only listed the longer-established operations in this chapter; for the full gamut of options, head to your beach of choice and ask around or scan the noticeboards.

WHERE TO GOA… Goa is tiny. With enough time (and discipline to get oﬀ the beach), you can explore the state’s beaches, nature and culture. Very generally, Goa can be split up into three distinct regions: north, south and central. The north, above the Mandovi River, is the place for those seeking action, shopping and activities in equal supply, and for folks looking for the remnants – and they are only remnants – of Goa’s fabled trance party scene. In addition, the north has some beautiful almost-empty beaches, along with a string of highly developed resorts with lots of choice in restaurants, hotels and water-sports outfits. In central Goa, nestling between the Mandovi and Zuari Rivers, things get decidedly more cultural. Here sits Panaji (Panjim), Goa’s small and loveable state capital, which slings itself comfortably along the broad banks of the Mandovi River, while inland lie spice plantations, waterfalls and the glorious vestiges of Goa’s grand and glittering past in the form of mansions, temples and cathedrals. Things slow down in the south, where the beaches grow generally quieter and the sun lounges are spaced further apart. Not the place for partying the night away, the beaches here cater to a quieter, calmer crowd, with lots of homespun charm. This is the place to sit back, unwind, and perhaps spot a hatching turtle or two.

YOGA & ALTERNATIVE THERAPIES

Every imaginable form of yoga, meditation, reiki, ayurvedic massage and other spiritually orientated health regime is practised, taught and relished in Goa. Palolem and Patnem, in the south of the state, and Arambol (Harmal), Mandrem, Anjuna and Calangute in the north all have courses in ayurveda, yoga, reiki and the like. Mandrem and Arambol have reputable yoga centres, and Calangute has an excellent ayurveda clinic. WILDLIFE-WATCHING

WATER SPORTS

Based in Baga, Barracuda Diving, oﬀers scuba -diving courses and trips. Parasailing and jetskiing are readily available on the beaches at Baga, Benaulim and Colva, and you can try paragliding at Anjuna and Arambol. Dangers & Annoyances

One of the greatest – and most deceptive – dangers in Goa is to be found right in front of your beautiful bit of beach: the Arabian Sea, with its strong currents and dangerous undertows, claims dozens of lives per year, many of them foreigners who knew how to swim. Though some of Goa’s beaches are now overseen by lifeguards during daylight hours, it’s extremely important to heed local warnings on the safety of swimming, and don’t, whatever you do, venture into the water after drinking or taking drugs. Other dangers and annoyances are of the rather more universal kind. Keep your valuables under lock and key, especially if you’re renting an easy-to-penetrate cocohut, and don’t walk along empty stretches of beach alone at night.

799

8 Information

The Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC; www.goa-tourism.com) provides maps and information, operates (not-great) hotels throughout the state and runs a host of one-day and multiday tours. Its main office is in Panaji, but you can book its tours and get a simple map of Goa at any of its hotel branches. Panaji’s Indiatourism office also has information on Goa. ACCOMMODATION Accommodation prices in Goa are generally higher than in most other states of India and vary wildly depending on the season. High-season prices, often more than twice the mid-season rates, run from early December to early February, while prices climb higher still during the crowded Christmas and New Year period (around 22 December to 3 January). Mid-season runs from the end of October through November (when most beach shacks are just being built) and from February to April, and low season runs through the rainy season (April to October). All accommodation rates listed in this chapter are for the high season. Note, however, that prices can fluctuate incredibly from year to year, and some hotels may bump up their high-season tariffs more than others. Always call ahead for rates. In addition, the Goan government levies a hotel tax of either 5% (for rooms costing less than ₹750), 7% (₹750 to ₹1500), 10% (₹1500 to ₹3000) or 12% (over ₹3000). Most accommodation options have a standard noon checkout, except in Panaji, where most hotels cruelly demand you depart at 9am.

8 Getting There & Away

AIR Goa’s sole and diminutive airport, Dabolim,

is in the centre of the state, 29km south of Panaji, 30km north of Margao and an easy taxi or bus ride from any of the state’s beaches. Few international flights go here directly; those that do are package-holiday charters, mostly from Russia and Britain. Independent travellers from the UK could check Thomson (www.thomsonfly.com), and from Germany, Condor (www.condor.com);

DRUGS

DIAL 108 IN EMERGENCIES

Acid, ecstasy, cocaine, charas (hashish), marijuana and all other forms of recreational drugs are illegal in India (though still very much available in Goa), and pur-

In any emergency in Goa, dial 108. This will connect you to the police, fire brigade or medical services.

GOA

Goa is a nature lover’s paradise, perfect for wildlife-watching, with an abundance of brilliant birdlife and a fine (but well concealed) collection of fauna, including sambars, barking deer and the odd leopard. Head to Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary to scout out birds and beasts alike, or to Backwoods Camp. Day Tripper in Calangute oﬀers various naturerelated tours, while John’s Boat Tours in Candolim runs birdwatching boat trips, along with crocodile- and dolphin-spotting rides. At almost any beach, though, you’ll find someone with a boat eager to show you those adorable grey mammals of the sea.

chasing or carrying drugs is fraught with danger. Goa’s Fort Aguada jail is filled with prisoners, including some foreigners, serving lengthy sentences for drug oﬀences, and being caught in possession of even a small quantity of illegal substances can mean a 10-year stay in a cockroach-infested cell.

800

GOA C E N T R A L G OA

both offer flight-only fares. Generally, the quickest way to reach Goa from overseas is to take a flight into Mumbai (Bombay), and then a one-hour hop by domestic airline down to Goa. There are lots of domestic flights each day, starting from around ₹3500 (cheaper if you book well in advance). Dabolim Airport has a money-exchange office, a GTDC counter, charter-airline offices, an ATM and two prepaid taxi booths. BUS Plenty of long-distance interstate buses – both ‘government’ and ‘private’ – operate to and from Panaji, Margao, Mapusa and Chaudi, near Palolem. Fares for private operators are higher than for government buses, and they fluctuate throughout the year; in peak season, they can be triple the price of the state operators. (Some would say that they’re also three times more comfortable, but this isn’t always the case.) A tip for overnight journeys: sleeper buses, counterintuitively, can be less comfortable than seaters. The seats keep you from getting tossed around with every bump and turn. TRAIN The Konkan Railway (www.konkan railway.com), the main train line running through Goa, runs between Mumbai and Mangalore. Its biggest station in Goa is Margao’s Madgaon station, from which there are several useful daily services to Mumbai. Other smaller, useful stations on the line include Pernem for Arambol, Thivim for Mapusa and the northern beaches, Karmali (Old Goa) for Panaji, and Canacona for Palolem. Other train lines out of Margao head to Chennai; Pune; Ahmedabad (Amdavad) and Vadodara (Baroda) in Gujarat; Ernakulam (for Kochi) and Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) in Kerala; Hubli in Karnataka and even Delhi. Book tickets online (see p1185); at Madgaon station; at the train reservation office at Panaji’s Kadamba bus stand; or at any travel agent vending train tickets (though you’ll probably pay a small commission). Only the stations at Margao and Vasco da Gama (near Dabolim Airport) have foreign-tourist-quota booking counters. Make sure you book as far in advance as possible for sleepers, since they fill up very quickly. See p828 for detailed train information.

8 Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Dabolim’s two pre-

paid taxi counters – one in the arrivals hall and the other just outside – make arriving easy; buy your ticket here and you’ll be ushered to a cab. BUS Goa has an extensive network of buses, shuttling to and from almost every town and village. They run frequently and have no numbers, and fares rarely exceed ₹30. Buses are in fairly good condition and tend to be pretty eﬃcient operations. CAR & MOTORCYCLE It’s easy in Goa to organise a private car with a driver for long-distance day trips. Prices vary, but you should bank on

paying from ₹1000 (if you’re lucky) to ₹1500 for a full day out on the road (usually defined as eight hours and 80km). It’s also possible, if you have the nerves and the skills, to procure a self-drive car. A small Maruti will cost from ₹600 to ₹900 per day and a jeep around ₹1000, excluding petrol; there are few organised rental outlets, so ask around for someone with a car willing to rent it to you. Note the slightly mystifying signposts posted on Goa’s major National Highway 17 (NH17), which advise of different speed limits (on the largely single-carriageway road) for different types of vehicles. You’ll rarely go far on a Goan road without seeing a tourist whizzing by on a scooter or motorbike, and renting (if not driving) one is a breeze. You’ll likely pay from ₹200 to ₹300 per day for a scooter, ₹400 for a smaller Yamaha motorbike, and ₹500 for a Royal Enfield Bullet. These prices can drop considerably if you’re renting for more than a day or if it’s an off-peak period. Bear in mind that Goan roads are treacherous, filled with human, bovine, canine, feline, mechanical and avian obstacles, as well as a good sprinkling of potholes and hairpin bends. Take it slowly, try not to drive at night (when black cows can prove dangerous), don’t attempt a north– south day trip on a 50CC scooter, and the most cautious of riders might even consider donning a helmet, which is technically the law. TAXI Taxis are widely available for townhopping, and, as with a chauffeured car, a full day’s sightseeing, depending on the distance, will be around ₹1500. Motorcycles, known as ‘pilots’, are also a licensed form of taxi in Goa. They’re cheap, easy to find, and can be identified by a yellow front mudguard – and even the heftiest of backpacks seem to be no obstacle.

CENTRAL GOA Panaji (Panjim) POP 98,915

Panaji (more commonly known as Panjim) has yellow houses with purple doors, cats lying in front of bicycles parked beneath oyster-shell windows, and paddle-wheel boats moseying along the river that laps the city’s northern boundary. Oh, and a giant church on a hill that looks like a fancy white wedding cake. It’s a friendly, manageable and walkable city – maybe India’s cutest capital – and its Portuguese-era colonial charms make it a perfect place to while away a day or two. Stroll the peaceful streets, take a kitschy river cruise, eat vindaloos and end the evening in a cosy local bar.

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WHEN IN ROME… Venture beyond the tourist areas and you’re sure to find a Goan who will sadly shake their heads and say that Goa has changed for the worse. The spread of serious drug use among locals, overdevelopment and environmental damage, and Goa’s growing reputation within India as a place for bad behaviour are the dark underbelly to its tropical paradise. You can help repair Goa’s image by following a few simple steps: » Away from the beaches, adopt the same, more modest dress that you would in other parts of the country. This generally means shoulders and knees covered, and keeping your shirts on. Nude or topless sunbathing was recently banned in Goa and can result in fines.

Panaji’s also a natural base for exploring Goa’s historic hinterland, and if the timing’s right, the place to be for its many festivals, which include the street party that is Sabado Gordo on the Saturday before Lent, a madcap Carnival, and, in December, the Feast of St Francis Xavier and the Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. If you happen to be here in November, Panaji is also host to the excellent International Film Festival of India (www.iﬃ.gov.in, www.iﬃgoa .org), India’s largest and most glittering film

festival. Panajimites know how to throw a festival – but they also know how to nap: the city mostly shuts down between 1pm and 3pm.

1 Sights & Activities Panaji is a city of long, leisurely strolls, through the sleepy Portuguese-era Sao Tomé, Fontainhas and Altinho districts, for a spot of shopping on 18th June Rd, and down along the languid Mandovi River. Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate CHURCH Conception

Panaji’s spiritual and geographical centre is its gleamingly picturesque main church, consecrated in 1541. When Panaji was little more than a sleepy fishing village, this place was the first port of call for sailors from Lisbon, who would clamber up here to thank their lucky stars for a safe crossing before continuing to Old Goa, the state’s capital until the 19th century, further east up the river. If your visit coincides with 8 December, be sure to call in for the Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, which sees a special church service and a lively fair spilling away from the church to mark the date.

FGoa State Museum

MUSEUM

(%2438006; www.goamuseum.nic.in; EDC Complex, Patto; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) This

large museum, in a strangely uncentral area southwest of the Kadamba bus stand, has a sleepy feel and an intriguing hodgepodge of exhibits. In addition to the usual Hindu and Jain sculptures and bronzes, the museum has a good collection of wooden Christian sculptures, a room devoted to the history of print in Goa (replete with hulking, old-school presses), an exhibition on Goa’s freedom fighters, and a few nice examples of Portuguese-era furniture, including an elaborately carved table used during the notoriously brutal Portuguese Inquisition in Goa.

Houses of Goa Museum MUSEUM (%2411276; Torda; adult/child ₹100/25; h10.30am7.30pm Tue-Sun) This little museum was cre-

ated by a well-known local architect, Gerard da Cunha, to illuminate the history of Goan architecture. Interesting displays on building practices and European and local design will change the way you see those old Goan homes, apparent statewide in various states of glory and decrepitude. Next door is the Mario Gallery (%2410711; admission free; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat), with works by one of India’s favourite cartoonists, Mario Miranda. The museum and gallery are north of Panaji in the Torda neighbourhood. To get here, take a Mapusa-bound bus and get oﬀ at Okukora Circle, also known as Kokeru; a rickshaw from here and back, including waiting time, costs ₹100. From Panaji, a taxi or rickshaw will cost you about ₹300 one-way.

CENTR SAC I GJTHIIM GOA S IAL PA GNHATGOA JSI (&PA N VT IS )T I&E SAC T I V I T I E S

» Keep your naughtiest behaviour confined to appropriate venues. Partying into the night with illegal substances at a family guesthouse might disturb the owners, though they may not say anything. » Women should be cautious when partying; rape, sadly, is on the rise in Goa, and though we don’t believe (as many do) that bikinis are to blame, it makes sense to be in control of your surroundings.

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Panaji (Panjim) æ Top Sights Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception .................... D2 Goa State Museum.................................E4 æ Sights 1 Menezes Braganza Institute..................B1 Panaji Central Library .....................(see 1) 2 Secretariat Building................................D1 3 Statue of Abbé Faria...............................D1 Activities, Courses & Tours River Cruises................................. (see 37)

ú Eating 13 George Bar & Restaurant...................... D2 14 Hospedaria Venite..................................E2 15 Hotel Vihar ..............................................E2 16 Legacy of Bombay................................. B3 17 Satkar Vegetarian Restaurant.............. C2 18 Sher-E-Punjab ....................................... C2

Secretariat Building HISTORIC BUILDING (Avenida Dom Joao Castro) This colonial-era

building is on the site of Bijapur Sultan Yusef Adil Shah’s summer palace. The current structure dates from the 16th century and became the Portuguese viceroy’s oﬃcial residence in 1759. Nowadays it houses less exciting government oﬃces but is worth a gaze as the oldest, and one of the prettiest, buildings in town, though it may still be under renovation when you visit. Immediately to the west, the compelling statue of a man bearing down upon a supine female form depicts Abbé Faria, a Goan priest, ‘father of hypnotism’ and friend of Napoleon, in melodramatic throes. Menezes Braganza Institute HISTORIC BUILDING (Malaca Rd) This beautiful early 20th-century

aﬀair is worth dropping into to see the pretty blue-and-white azulejos (glazed ceramictile compositions) in the entrance hall. The

20 Upper House...........................................C2 21 Viva Panjim ............................................. E3

û Drinking 22 Down the Road ....................................... F2 23 Quarterdeck ........................................... C1 ý Entertainment 24 Casino Royale..........................................E1 þ Shopping 25 Barefoot .................................................. E2 26 Book Fair................................................. C1 27 Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan ....................C2 28 Municipal Market....................................A2 29 Singbal's Book House............................D2 30 Vision World Book Depot.......................D2 Information 31 Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC) ........................... F2 32 Indiatourism ...........................................D2 Transport 33 Kadamba Bus Stand ..............................G3 Konkan Railway Reservation Office .......................................... (see 33) 34 Paulo Travels ..........................................G3 35 Private Bus Agents.................................G3 36 Private Bus Stand ..................................G2 37 Santa Monica Jetty ................................G2

Panaji Central Library (h9.30am-1.15pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Sat) is a pleasantly retro place

to read the paper and some magazines. Campal

AREA

The Campal neighbourhood, to the west of Panaji proper, is home to some green spaces that are perfect for whiling away an afternoon. Goa’s premier cultural centre, Kala Academy has a lovely campus, with a snack bar; an art gallery; a lighthouse, pier and benches along the water; and a library with great books on Indian arts. East of this is Campal Gardens (Bhagwan Mahaveer Bal Vihar), a peaceful, expansive park with playgrounds and river views.

C Courses

Holiday on the Menu COOKING (www.holidayonthemenu.com; courses from US$149) This London-based outfit oﬀers a

CENTR CN O JUIRMS)E S GOA C OAL PA NUARGOA JSIE(SPA

ÿ Sleeping 4 Afonso Guest House ..............................E3 5 Bharat Lodge ..........................................E2 Casa Morada................................... (see 6) 6 Casa Nova ...............................................E2 7 Casa Paradiso........................................ D2 8 Comfort Guest House ............................E2 9 Crown ......................................................E2 10 Mayfair Hotel ......................................... C3 11 Pousada Guest House............................E2 12 Republica Hotel ..................................... D2

19 Sher-E-Punjab ........................................C2

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variety of Goan-cooking holidays, ranging from a Saturday ‘Curry Morning’ to a oneweek program that includes trips to a spice plantation and a local market, based in the picturesque village of Betim, just across the river north of town.

T Tours

GOA C E N T R A L G OA

The Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC) operates a range of boat trips along the Mandovi River, including daily hourlong cruises (₹150; h6pm & 7.15pm) and twohour dinner cruises (₹450; h8.45pm) aboard the Santa Monica. All include a live band and dancers – sometimes lively, sometimes lacklustre – performing Goan folk songs and dances. Cruises depart from the Santa Monica jetty beside the New Patto Bridge, where the GTDC boat counter (%2437496) also sells tickets. Three private companies also oﬀer onehour night cruises (adult/child ₹150/free; h6pm, 7pm & 8.30pm) departing from Santa Monica jetty. The GTDC cruises are a little more staid, while others – maybe because of the bars and DJs – can get rowdy with groups of local male tourists. GTDC also runs a two-hour Goa By Night bus tour (₹200; h6.30pm Tue & Sun), which leaves from the same jetty and includes a river cruise and packs in as much as possible. You can take your own free tour aboard the local ferries that depart frequently (whenever full) at the dock next to Quarterdeck; locals have reported seeing dolphins on evening rides. Avoid rush hour, when the boats are crammed.

4 Sleeping As in the rest of Goa, prices vary wildly in Panaji depending on supply and demand. Lots of rock-bottom-priced options pepper 31st January Rd, but most consist of a celllike room, with a 9am checkout, for ₹500 or less. Inspect a few before you decide. Some are full of bachelors where it would be odd – and potentially problematic – for gals to stay, so if unsure, ask at reception if the hotel is a ‘family’ place.

oMayfair Hotel

HOTEL $$

(%2223317; Dr Dada Vaidya Rd; s/d from ₹900/1200; a) Bright rooms at this friendly family-run

hotel have mango-yellow accents, woodblockprint curtains and either balconies on the street side or windows overlooking the backyard garden (think palms, flowers and cats

chasing butterflies). Beautiful ground-floor oyster-shell windows and good old-fashioned service make it atmospheric, too, and loving details like balcony lanterns at Diwali time make it feel homey. Be sure to get recommendations from the chatty mother and daughters at reception, and check out the fun Mario Miranda mosaic in the lobby. Discounts are given for stays of more than two nights. Casa Nova GUESTHOUSE $$$ (%9423889181, 7709886212; www.goaholidayacc ommodation.com; Gomes Pereira Rd; ste ₹3100)

Here’s your chance to actually stay in one of Panaji’s gorgeous old Portuguese-style homes – if you can get a booking. Casa Nova consists of just one stylish, exceptionally comfy suite, accessed via a little alley and complete with arched windows, wood-beam ceilings and mod cons like a kitchenette. Sister property

Casa Morada (%9822196007, 9881966789; agomes@tbi.in; Gomes Pereira Rd; s/d incl breakfast ₹5000/10,000) is as fancy as Nova is modern.

Its two bedrooms and sitting room are full of antique furniture and objets d’art (ergo the no children, no pets policy), with real art on the walls and floors of elegant pale-green marble. Crown HOTEL $$$ (%2400060; www.thecrowngoa.com; Jose Falcao Rd; d/ste incl breakfast from ₹5000/10,000; aiWs)

Perched high above Panaji, with lovely views from its cool and peaceful pool area, this is a great option for a little bit of luxury in the midst of the city. The Crown was recently renovated, and the result is airy, tastefully done rooms in mustards and whites (some with balconies) with supermodern bathrooms. The staff is competent without being stuffy. The price includes breakfast and, for stays of more than two nights, pick-up/drop-off at the airport or train station. Afonso Guest House HOTEL $$ (%2222359, 9764300165; St Sebastian Rd; r ₹1500) Run by the friendly Jeanette, this

place in a pretty, old Portuguese-era town house oﬀers spacious, well-kept rooms with wood-plank ceilings and a pinch of character. The little rooftop terrace, meanwhile, makes for sunny breakfasting (dishes from ₹20 to ₹30). It’s a simple, serene stay in the heart of the most atmospheric part of town with just two small faults: checkout is 9am and it doesn’t take bookings. Pousada Guest House HOTEL $ (%2422618; sabrinateles@yahoo.com; Luis de Menezes Rd; d/tr/f ₹420/735/900, with AC

₹630/840/1000; a) The four rooms in this little place in the centre of town are nothing special – the two doubles are downstairs, dark and a little small even – but they’re clean; civilised; owner Sabrina is friendly and no-nonsense; and of course, the price is right. Republica Hotel HOTEL $ (%2224630; Jose Falcao Rd; s/d from ₹400/700, d with AC ₹1000; a) The Republica is a story of

Casa Paradiso HOTEL $$ (%2230092; www.casaparadisogoa.com; Jose Falcao Rd; r ₹2000-2500; a) Just steps away from

Panaji’s Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, the newish Casa is a central, if a tad overpriced, option with friendly staﬀ and bright rooms. Bharat Lodge GUESTHOUSE $$ (%2224862, 9890193688; Sao Tomé St; d without/with AC ₹1000/1600; a) A good, clean

option in a pretty, recently renovated old building. Rooms have TVs, but could be cheaper.

Comfort Guest House GUESTHOUSE (%6642250; 31st January Rd; r ₹500) Wasn’t

yet open at research time, but we heard good things about it.

5 Eating You’ll never go hungry in Panaji, where food is enjoyed fully and frequently. A stroll down 18th June or 31st January Rds will turn up a number of great, cheap canteen-style options, as will a quick circuit of the Municipal Gardens.

oUpper House

GOAN $$

(Cunha-Rivara Rd; mains ₹95-295; h11am-10pm)

Fans of Goan seafood and vegetarians alike can rejoice in the food at this new spot specialising in home-style regional dishes. Local favourites such as crab xec xec (crab cooked in a roasted-coconut gravy), pork vindaloo, and fish-curry-rice are done the old-fashioned way (the latter even comes with saltwater mango pickle, rarely found outside

805

Sher-E-Punjab NORTH INDIAN $$ (18th June Rd; mains ₹70-140; h10.30am-11.30pm)

A cut above the usual lunch joint, Sher-EPunjab caters to well-dressed locals with its generous, carefully spiced Punjabi dishes: even a humble mattar paneer (unfermented cheese and pea curry) is memorable here. There’s a pleasant garden terrace out back, too, open seasonally. The food at the fancier branch of Sher-E-Punjab (Hotel Aroma,

Cunha-Rivara Rd; mains ₹120-270; h11am-3pm & 7-10.30pm) is equally tasty.

George Bar & Restaurant GOAN $$ (Church Sq; mains ₹75-160; h9.30am-10.30pm)

Slightly cramped wooden tables and a healthy mix of drunks and families make for a good local, down-to-earth vibe. Seafood’s the name of the game here, and it’s done especially well in pilau (rice cooked in stock; often spelled pulao in Goa) and other Goan classics. George is also one of those rare birds in Goa that does good veg; try the biryani or the delish veg pilau. Hotel Vihar VEGAN $ (MG Rd; mains ₹50-80, thalis ₹45-70; h7.30am10pm) A vast menu of ‘pure veg’ food, great

big thalis and a plethora of fresh juices make this clean, simple canteen a popular place for locals and visitors alike. Sip a hot chai, invent your own juice combination, and dig into one of the fresh thalis or tiﬃns. Viva Panjim GOAN $ (31st January Rd; mains ₹65-120; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 7-10.30pm Sun) Though

it’s crazy touristy these days, this little sidestreet eatery, with a couple of tables out on the street itself, still delivers tasty Goan classics – there’s a whole page of the menu devoted to pork dishes – as well as the standard Indian fare. Veggies, though, will leave disappointed.

Hospedaria Venite GOAN $$ (31st January Rd; mains ₹180-260; h9am10.30pm) The atmospheric Venite is a long-

time tourist favourite: its tiny, rickety balcony

CENTR AL E AT GOA E AT PA NIANGOA JGI ( PA N JI N MG)

unexplored potential, an architectural beauty that’s been left to the elements – though its dilapidation is, in part, its charm. We thought the welcome could be warmer, and the rooms, though a bit worn, are pricey, but the elderly, ramshackle wooden building has balconies railed with ornate wrought-iron banisters, some rooms have three walls of stained glass, and the air hangs heavy with saudade and faded grandeur.

Goan mothers’ kitchens), and even the veg adaptations (eg mixed veg and mushroom xacuti) are show-stoppers. Upper House also serves the best pav (Portuguese-style bread) you’ve ever tasted, while the alebale dessert (pancake stuﬀed with jaggery and coconut) might make you wet your pants it’s so good. The restaurant’s on the 1st floor of the building next to Hindu Pharmacy.

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tables make the perfect lunchtime spot. But perhaps success has gone to Venite’s head: the food was never great, and now it’s exorbitantly priced, too. Maybe visit for a cold beer or snack in the evening instead and chill out on the balcony before moving on. Legacy of Bombay INDIAN (Hotel Fidalgo, 18th June Rd; mains ₹90-150)

Satkar Vegetarian Restaurant INDIAN (18th June Rd; thalis ₹55-70, mains ₹50-80)

Slightly fancy, slightly pricey, really good pure-veg.

Casual, cheap, pretty good pure-veg.

Drinking

GOA C E N T R A L G OA

Panaji’s got pick-me-up pit stops aplenty, especially in Sao Tomé and Fontainhas. Mostly simple little bars with a few plastic tables and chairs, they’re a great way to get chatting with locals. Down the Road (MG Rd; h11am-2am) This restaurant’s

BAR

balcony overlooking the creek and Old Patto Bridge makes for a good and comfy cocktail spot. The ground-floor bar is also Panaji’s only real late-nighter, with occasional live music.

Quarterdeck (Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; h11am-10.45pm)

BAR

The prices here are on the high side, but the spot right on the water makes up for that.

3 Entertainment

Kala Academy CULTURAL PROGRAMS (%2420451; www.kalaacademy.org; Dayanand Bandodkar Marg) On the west side of the city

at Campal is Goa’s premier cultural centre, which features an excellent program of dance, theatre, music and art exhibitions throughout the year. Many plays are in Konkani, but there are occasional Englishlanguage productions; call to find out what’s on when you’re in town.

INOX CINEMA (%2420999; www.inoxmovies.com; Old GMC Heritage Precinct; tickets ₹180-200) This comfort-

able multiplex cinema shows Hollywood and Bollywood blockbusters alike; films change on Fridays.

Casino boats ply the Mandovi waters each night, oﬀering lose-your-savings fun to all who step aboard. Casino Royale

(%6519471/2; www.casinoroyalegoa.com; entry

₹3500; h6pm-8am) is the largest; various age

and dress restrictions apply.

Shopping

Panaji’s municipal market is a great place for people-watching and buying necessities. Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan HANDICRAFTS (Dr Atmaram Borkar Rd; h9am-noon & 3-7pm MonSat) Goa’s only outpost of the government’s

Khadi & Village Industries Commission has an excellent range of hand-woven cottons (the towels and men’s kurtas are particularly good), along with oils, soaps, spices and other handmade products that come straight from – and directly benefit – regional villages. Barefoot HANDICRAFTS (31st January Rd; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat) Barefoot

is part of Panaji’s new wave of very high end shops specialising in design of one kind or another. Barefoot, though pricey, has some nice gifts, ranging from traditional Christian paintings on wood to jewellery to beaded coasters. Panaji has several good bookstores, all with a range of books on Goa and the region. Book Fair BOOKSTORE (Hotel Mandovi, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; h9am-9pm) A small, well-stocked bookstore

in the Hotel Mandovi lobby; you’ll find Fish Curry & Rice, the Goa Foundation’s environmental sourcebook, here (see p811).

Singbal’s Book House BOOKSTORE (Church Sq; h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm MonSat) Lots of books and newspapers and

heaps of character at this slightly grumpy establishment that, incidentally, had a cameo role in the Bourne Supremacy.

Vision World Book Depot BOOKSTORE (Church Sq; h9.30am-8pm) A good selection

of self-help and spiritual titles, among other things.

8 Information

ATMs are everywhere, especially on 18th June Rd and around the Thomas Cook oﬃce. Cozy Nook Travels (18th June Rd; per hr ₹35; h9am-9pm) Superfriendly internet joint, with a quiet ISD booth. Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC; %2424001/2/3; www.goa-tourism.com; Dr Alvaro Costa Rd; h9.30am-1.15pm & 2-5.45pm Mon-Sat) Pick up maps of Goa and Panaji here and book one of GTDC’s host of tours.

Indiatourism (Government of India tourist office; %2223412; www.incredibleindia.com; 1st fl, Communidade Bldg, Church Sq; h9.30am6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Helpful staff can provide a list of qualified guides for tours and trips in Goa. A half-/full-day tour for up to five people costs ₹600/750. Main post office (MG Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Oliveira Fernandes & Sons Business Centre (MG Rd; per hr ₹30; h9am-midnight) Best internet cafe with the best name. Thomas Cook (%2221312; Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Changes travellers cheques commission-free and handles currency exchange, wire transfers, cash advances on credit cards, and air bookings. Vintage Hospitals (% 6644401-05, ambulance 2232533; www.vintage3.com; Cacula Enclave, St Inez) A couple of kilometres southwest of Panaji, Vintage is a reputable hospital with all the fixings.

long-distance services stop. Panaji’s Konkan Railway reservation oﬃce (%2712940; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) is on the 1st fl oor of the Kadamba bus stand. See p 827 for details on trains out of Margao, many of which stop at Karmali.

8 Getting There & Away

From the 16th to the 18th centuries, when Old Goa’s population exceeded that of Lisbon or London, this capital of Goa was considered the ‘Rome of the East’. You can still sense that grandeur as you wander the grounds, with its towering churches and cathedral and majestic convents. Its rise under the Portuguese, from 1510, was meteoric, but cholera and malaria outbreaks forced the abandonment of the city in the 1600s. In 1843 the capital was oﬃcially shifted to Panaji. Some of the churches, the cathedral and a convent or two are still in use, but many of the other historical buildings have become museums. It’s a fascinating day trip, but it can get crowded: consider visiting on a weekday morning, when you can take in Mass at Sé Cathedral or the Basilica of Bom Jesus (remember to cover your shoulders and legs in the churches and cathedral), and definitely stop by if you’re around in the 10 days leading up to the Feast of St Francis Xavier on 3 December.

about an hour, and costs ₹500.

BUS All government buses depart from the Kad-

amba bus stand (%local enquiries 2438034), with local services heading out every few minutes. To get to South Goan beaches, take a bus to Margao and change there; Ponda buses also stop at Old Goa. Calangute ₹14, 45 minutes Candolim ₹12, 30 minutes Mapusa ₹10, 20 minutes Margao express; ₹26, 45 minutes Old Goa ₹8, 15 minutes State-run long-distance services also depart from the Kadamba bus stand (%interstate enquiries 2438035; hreservations 8am-8pm). Private operators have booths outside Kadamba, but the buses depart from the interstate bus stand next to New Patto Bridge. One reliable company is Paulo Travels (%2438531; www .paulotravels.com; Kardozo Bldg). Some highseason government and private long-distance fares: Bengaluru ₹550-800, 15 hours, five daily Bengaluru private; ₹800-1300, 14-15 hours Hampi private; ₹700-800, 10-11 hours Hubli ₹150, six hours, hourly Mumbai private ₹600-1500, 12-14 hours Pune ₹450, 11 hours, nine daily Pune private; ₹700-1200, 10-11 hours Kadamba station has an ATM, an internet cafe – and a Ganesh temple. TRAIN Panaji’s closest train station is Karmali (Old Goa), 12km to the east, where many

8 Getting Around

It’s easy enough to get around Panaji on foot, and it’s unlikely you’ll even need a pilot or autorickshaw, which is good because they charge a lot: a rick from Kadamba to your hotel will cost ₹50. Frequent buses run between Kadamba and the municipal market (₹5). To Old Goa, a taxi costs around ₹300, an autorickshaw ₹150. Lots of taxis hang around the Municipal Gardens, while you’ll find autorickshaws and pilots in front of the post oﬃce, on 18th June Rd, and just south of the church.

Old Goa

1 Sights Sé Cathedral

CHURCH

The largest church in Old Goa, the Sé de Santa Catarina, is also the largest in Asia, at over 76m long and 55m wide. Construction began in 1562, under orders from Portugal’s King Dom Sebastião, and the finishing touches were made 90 years later. Fairly plain allround, the cathedral has three especially notable features: the first, up in the belfry, is the Golden Bell, the largest bell in Asia; the second is in the screened chapel inside

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to the right, known as the Chapel of the Cross of Miracles, wherein sits a cross said to have miraculously, and vastly, expanded in size after its creation by local shepherds in 1619. The third is the massive gilded reredos (ornamental screen behind the altar), which depicts the life of St Catherine, to whom the cathedral is dedicated and who came to a sticky end in Alexandria, Egypt, where she was beheaded. Next to the cathedral, in the old archbishop’s house, Kristu Kala Mandir Art Gallery (admission ₹10; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun) has a hodgepodge of contemporary Christian art and religious objects, including old church confessionals and altar pieces. The decorative wall frescoes may be the gallery’s prettiest holdings. Church of St Francis of Assisi

CHURCH

The gorgeous interior of this 1661 church, built over a 16th-century chapel, is filled with gilded and carved woodwork, murals depicting the life of St Francis, frescoes of decorative flowers and various angels, 16thcentury Portuguese tombstones, and another stunning reredos. Just behind the church, the former convent houses the Archaeological Museum (admission ₹10; h8am-5pm), whose small but worthwhile collection includes a portrait gallery of Portuguese viceroys, a couple of bronze statues, fragments of Hindu temple sculpture, and some interesting ‘hero stones’, carved to commemorate Hindu warriors who perished in combat.

oMuseum of Christian Art

MUSEUM

(http://christianartmuseum.goa-india.org; adult/ child ₹30/free; h9.30am-5pm) This excellent

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museum, in a positively stunning space in the restored 1627 Convent of St Monica, has a fine collection of 16th- and 17th-century Christian art from Old Goa and around the state. There are some exquisite pieces here – wooden sculptures glittering with gilt and polychrome, processional lamps, tabernacle doors, polychrome paintings and other religious objects from Old Goa’s prime – that are almost, but not quite, outdone by the atmospheric interior. The four-storey-high ceilings, exposed wood beams and terracotta -work, and all-around beauty of the place are worth a visit in their own right. Basilica of Bom Jesus

CHURCH

Church of Our Lady of the Mount

CHURCH

Famous throughout the Roman Catholic world for its rather grizzled and grizzly longterm resident, the basilica’s vast, gilded interior forms the last resting place of Goa’s patron saint, St Francis Xavier (except for his diamond-encrusted fingernail, which sits in Chandor). In 1541, the saint embarked on a mission to put right the sinful, heady lifestyles of Goa’s Portuguese colonials. Construction of the imposing red-stone basilica was completed in 1605; St Francis himself is housed in a mausoleum to the right, in a glass-sided coﬃn amid a shower of gilt stars. For a wonderful view of the city hike up to this hilltop church, also known as Capela de Monte, 2km east of Sé Cathedral; it’s especially worth the trip for a spectacular sunset. (Locals will warn you not to go solo; the site is a bit remote.) The church is rarely open but was recently restored and, with its exceptional acoustics, now hosts concerts

809

Old Goa æ Top Sights Basilica of Bom Jesus ........................... B2 Church of St Francis of Assisi ...............B1 Museum of Christian Art....................... A2 Sé Cathedral ...........................................C1

6 Church of Our Lady of the

Rosary ..................................................A2 7 Church of St Cajetan.............................. C1 8 Convent & Church of St John................B2 9 Convent of St Monica ............................B2 10 Kristu Kala Mandir Art Gallery .............. B1

æ Sights 1 Adil Shah Palace Gateway .....................C1 2 Albuquerque's Steps..............................B1 3 Archaeological Museum ........................B1 4 Chapel of St Anthony ............................ A2 5 Chapel of St Catherine...........................B1

Monastery of St Augustine

HISTORIC SITE

The melancholy, evocative ruins of this once vast and impressive Augustinian monastery are all that remain of a huge structure founded in 1572 and abandoned in 1835. The building’s facade came tumbling down in 1942; all that remains, amid piles of rubble, is the towering skeletal belfry, though the bell itself was rescued and now hangs in Panaji’s Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. There are plenty of other monuments in Old Goa to explore, including the Church of St Cajetan, Viceroy’s Arch, Adil Shah Palace Gateway, Chapel of St Anthony, Chapel of St Catherine, Albuquerque’s Steps, the Convent & Church of St John, Sisters’ Convent and the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary.

5 Eating Little tourist restaurants with chai and snacks are peppered around; the basic San-

jay Cafe (Old Goa Rd; thalis ₹35, tiﬃns ₹25-30)

has the best food in town.

8 Getting There & Away

Frequent buses from Old Goa head to Panaji’s Kadamba bus stand (₹8, 25 minutes) from Old Goa Rd, just beside the Tourist Inn and at the main roundabout to the east.

Ponda & Around The workaday inland town of Ponda, 29km southeast of Panaji, has two big drawcards in the vicinity – Hindu temples and spice

13 Viceroy's Arch ........................................ C1

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plantations – and is worth a day away from the beach. Temple aficionados, however, might be a little disappointed; most were built or rebuilt after the originals were destroyed by the Portuguese, so they’re not as ancient as those elsewhere in India. The 18th-century hilltop Mangueshi Temple at Priol, 5km northwest of Ponda, is dedicated to Manguesh, a god known only in Goa, while 1km away at Mardol is the Mahalsa Temple, also dedicated to a specifically Goan deity. The 1738 Shantadurga Temple, meanwhile, just west of Ponda, is dedicated to Shantadurga, the goddess of peace, and is one of the most famous shrines in Goa. The Tropical Spice Plantation (%2340329;

www.tropicalspiceplantation.com; admission incl lunch ₹400; h9am-4pm), 5km northeast of

Ponda, is touristy, but you’ll get an entertaining 45-minute tour of the 120-acre plantation’s ‘demo garden’ followed by a buﬀet lunch. Elephant rides and bathings are available for ₹600, but seeing the elephants uncomfortably tied on short leashes all day may make this part less appealing. Sahakari Spice Farm (%2312394; www.sahakarifarms .com; admission incl lunch ₹400; h9am-4pm), 2km

from Ponda, is practically the same thing. Nearby, the 200-year-old family Savoi

Plantation (%2340272, 9423888899; www .savoiplantation.com; h9am-4.30pm), whose

motto is ‘Organic Since Origin’, is much mellower, less touristed and elephant-free. You’ll find a warm welcome from knowledgeable guides keen to walk you through the 100-acre plantation at your own pace. Local crafts are for sale, and you’re welcomed with fresh kokum juice, cardamom bananas and other organic treats. Savoi also recently built a couple of cottages (d incl meals ₹5000).

CENTR GOA E AT P OAL NIDA NGOA G & AERAT O IUNNGD

during the Feast of St Francis Xavier in December, the Monte Music Festival in February, and at other times during the year.

11 Monastery of St Augustine....................A2 12 Sisters' Convent.....................................B2

810

There are regular buses to Ponda from Panaji (₹18, 45 minutes) and Margao, after which you’ll need to arrange a taxi to visit the temples or spice farms. Taxis from Panaji charge ₹1000 for a day trip to the area (up to eight hours and 80km).

Dudhsagar Falls

GOA N O R T H G OA

On the eastern border with Karnataka, Dudhsagar Falls (603m) are Goa’s most impressive waterfalls, and the second highest in India, best seen as soon as possible after the rains. To get here, take the 8.13am train to Colem from Margao (check return times in advance; there are only three trains daily in each direction), and from there, catch a jeep for the bumpy 40-minute trip to the falls (₹300 return per person, or ₹1800 for the six-passenger jeep). It’s then a short but rocky clamber to the edge of the falls themselves. A simpler, but more expensive, option is to take a full-day GTDC tour (₹700; h9am-6pm Wed & Sun) from Panaji, Mapusa or Calangute (book at the oﬃce in Panaji), or arrange an excursion with the Day Tripper travel agency in Calangute or Speedy Travels in Anjuna.

NORTH GOA Mapusa POP 40,100

The pleasantly bustling market town of Mapusa (pronounced ‘Mapsa’) is the largest town in northern Goa, and is most often visited for its busy Friday Market (h8am-

6.30pm), which attracts scores of buyers and sellers from neighbouring towns and villages, and a healthy intake of tourists from the northern beaches. It’s a good place to pick up the usual embroidered bedsheets and the like at prices lower than in the beach resorts. You’ll probably pass through Mapusa eventually anyway, as it’s a major transport hub for northern Goa buses. Mapusa is also home to the exceptionally awesome Other India Bookstore

(%2263306; www.otherindiabookstore.com; Mapusa Clinic Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat),

specialising in ‘dissenting wisdom’ – a small but spectacular selection of books on nature, farming, politics, education and natural health. To find it, go up the steps on the right as you walk down Mapusa Clinic Rd, and follow signs; it’s at the end of a dingy corridor. There’s little reason to stay the night in Mapusa when the beaches of the north coast are all so close, but if you do, go for Hotel Vilena (%2263115; Feira Baixa Rd; d without/with AC ₹525/725, without bathroom ₹420; a). There

are plenty of nice, old-fashioned cafes within the market area. The thalis are excellent at busy Ashok Snacks & Beverages (thalis &

mains ₹35-70; h6am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun), overlooking the market. It’s a simple

place full of local families and folks on their lunch break. Hotel Vrundavan (thalis ₹38-55, tiﬃns ₹12-50; h7am-10pm Wed-Mon), an all-veg place bordering the municipal gardens, is another great joint with good chai and snacks.

8 Information

There are plenty of ATMs scattered about town. Mapusa Clinic (%2263343; hconsultations 10.30am-1.30pm Mon-Sat, 3.30-7pm Mon, Wed & Fri) A well-run medical clinic, with 24-hour

BACKWOODS CAMP In a forest in the Mahaveer Sanctuary full of butterflies and birds, Backwoods Camp (%9822139859; www.backwoodsgoa.com) could not be in a more magical, serene spot. The resort is about 1km from Tambdi Surla temple, and for birdwatching enthusiasts it oﬀers one of Goa’s richest sources of feathered friends, with everything from Ceylon frogmouths and Asian fairy bluebirds to puﬀ-throated babblers and Indian pittas putting in a regular appearance. Accommodation is in comfortable tents on raised platforms, bungalows and farmhouse rooms (all with attached bathroom), and the camp makes valiant attempts to protect this fragile bit of the Goan ecosystem through measures including waste recycling, replanting indigenous tree species and employing local villagers. One-, two- and three-day birdwatching excursions, including guide, transport from Ponda, accommodation at the camp and all meals, cost from ₹4000, ₹6000 and ₹8000 per person, respectively.

811

GREEN GOA? Goa’s environment has suﬀered from an onslaught of tourism over the last 40 years, but also from the eﬀects of logging, mining and local customs (rare turtle eggs have traditionally been considered a dining delicacy). Construction proceeds regardless of what the local infrastructure or ecosystem can sustain, while plastic bottles pile up in vast mountains. There are, however, a few easy ways to minimise your impact on Goa’s environment: » Take your own bag when shopping and refill water bottles with filtered water wherever possible. The 5L Bisleri water bottles come with a deposit and are returnable to be reused; invest in these when you can. Better yet, bring a water filter with you.

» Rent a bicycle instead of a scooter, and ask around if you don’t find any: bicycle rentals are declining as a result of our scooter infatuation, but they’ll bounce back if the demand is there.

Turtles are currently protected by the Forest Department (www.goaforest.com), which operates huts on beaches, such as Agonda, where turtles arrive to lay eggs. Drop into these or check out the website to find out more about the department’s work. Also doing good work is the Goa Foundation (%2256479, 2263305; www.goafoundation.org; St Britto’s Apts, G-8 Feira Alta, Mapusa), the state’s main environmental pressure group. It has spearheaded a number of conservation projects since its inauguration in 1986, and its website is a great place to learn more about Goan environmental issues. The group’s excellent Fish Curry & Rice (₹400), a sourcebook on Goa’s environment and lifestyle, is sold at Mapusa’s Other India Bookstore. The Foundation occasionally runs volunteer projects; call or swing by for details.

emergency services. Be sure to go to the ‘new’ Mapusa Clinic, behind the ‘old’ one. Pink Panther Travel Agency (%2250352, 2263180; panther_goa@sancharnet.in; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1.30pm Sat) Train and air tickets (both international and domestic), currency exchange and property consultancy services. Softway (%2262075; per hr ₹20; Chandranath Apts; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-9.30pm Sun) Fast internet and ice cream in a shopping complex just past the post office (opposite the police station).

8 Getting There & Away

If you’re coming to Goa by bus from Mumbai, Mapusa’s Kadamba bus stand (%2232161) is the jumping-oﬀ point for the northern beaches. Local services run every few minutes; just look for the correct destination on the sign in the bus windscreen – and try to get an express. For buses to the southern beaches, take a bus to Panaji, then Margao, and change there. Local services: Anjuna ₹10, 20 minutes Arambol ₹20, 1½ hours Calangute/Candolim ₹10/12, 20/35 minutes

Panjim ₹10, 20 minutes Thivim ₹10, 20 minutes Interstate services run out of the same lot, but private operators have their oﬃces next to the bus stand. There’s generally little diﬀerence in price, comfort or duration between private services. Long-distance services: Bengaluru government; ₹500, 12 hours, one daily at 5pm Bengaluru private; non-AC ₹1500, AC ₹16002000 Mumbai private; non-AC ₹1500, AC ₹16002000 Pune government; non-AC ₹380-500, AC ₹600, three daily, in evening Pune private; non-AC ₹1200, AC ₹1200-1500 There’s a prepaid taxi stand outside the bus terminal; it has a handy sign of prices. Cabs to Anjuna or Calangute cost ₹200, Arambol ₹400, and Margao ₹800; autorickshaws typically charge ₹50 less than taxis. Thivim, about 12km northeast of town, is the nearest train station on the Konkan Railway. Local buses meet trains; an autorickshaw into Mapusa from Thivim costs around ₹150.

NORTH GOA 8 AGOA M P U S A8

» Dispose of cigarette butts, which are nonbiodegradeable, in bins; birds and sealife may mistake them for food and choke.

812

Candolim, Sinquerim & Fort Aguada POP 8600

GOA N O R T H G OA

Candolim’s vast beach, which curves round as far as smaller Sinquerim beach in the south, is largely the preserve of older, slowroasting package tourists from the UK, Russia and Scandinavia, and is fringed with beach shacks, all offering sun beds and shade in exchange for your custom. Its bestknown feature, though, may be the hulking River Princess tanker which ran aground here in the late 1990s. This massive industrial creature, marooned just a few dozen metres offshore, with tourists sunbathing in her sullen shadow, is a surreal, and oddly pretty, sight. Candolim’s beach is pleasant, the town is mellow, and there are some great hotels here, but it’s somewhat fading and lacks the personality of many other beach towns. The post office, supermarkets, travel agents, internet cafes, pharmacies and plenty of banks with ATMs are all on the main Fort Aguada Rd, which runs parallel to the beach.

1 Sights & Activities

Fort Aguada FORT, AREA (h8.30am-5.30pm) Guarding the mouth of

the Mandovi River and hugely popular with Indian tour groups, Fort Aguada was constructed by the Portuguese in 1612 and is the most impressive of Goa’s remaining forts. It’s worth braving the crowds and hawkers at the moated ruins on the hilltop for the views; unfortunately, there was no entry at research time to the fort’s four-storey Portuguese lighthouse, built in 1894 and the oldest of its type in Asia. But just down the road is the peninsula’s active lighthouse (Indian/ foreigner/child ₹10/25/3; h3-5.30pm), which you can climb for extraordinary views. It’s a pleasant 2km ride along a hilly, sealed road to the fort, or you can walk via a steep, uphill path past Marbella Guest House. Beneath the fort is the Fort Aguada Jail, whose cells were originally fort storehouses, and Johnny’s Mansion, owned by a famously wealthy Goan and often used as a set for Indian films. Neither is open to the public. Calizz MUSEUM (%3250000; www.calizz.com; Fort Aguada Rd; adult/child ₹300/free; h10am-7pm) A highlight

of Candolim, this impressive compound is filled with traditional Goan houses and

some 75,000 artefacts. The museum won a National Tourism Award for its innovativeness, but it’s the pretty houses that will blow you away. Resident historians conduct 45-minute tours that bring the state’s cultural history to life. Boat Cruises

BOATING

Some of the most popular boat trips around town are run by John’s Boat Tours (%6520190, 9822182814; www.johnboattrips.com), including dolphin-watching cruises (₹900), boat trips to Anjuna Market (₹600), a Grand Island snorkelling excursion (₹1200), and even overnight houseboat cruises (₹5000 per person, full board). For something more low-key (read: cheaper), head to the excursion boat jetty along the Nerul River; independent local boat conductors here operate trips to Anjuna (₹300) and dolphin cruises (₹200; dolphins guaranteed) that pass by Coco Beach, Fort Aguada Jail, the fort, and – of course – ‘Johnny’s Millionaire House’.

4 Sleeping Candolim has a surprising range of great accommodation. Most of the best-value (and cheapest) budget choices are in the lush area in northern Candolim between the road and the beach; wander through the tiny trails and you’re sure to find something. The little road up to the Marbella Guest House also has private houses oﬀering double rooms for around ₹500 per night.

oMarbella Guest House

HOTEL $$$

(%2479551; www.marbellagoa.com; d/ste from ₹3000/4100; a) You might be put oﬀ by

the name, but this place has not a touch of Spain’s Costa del Sol about it. A stunning Portuguese-era villa filled with antiques and backed by a lush, peaceful courtyard garden, the Marbella is a romantic and sophisticated old-world remnant. Its kitchen serves up some imaginative dishes, and its penthouse suite is a dream of polished tiles and fourposters. Sadly for kids with a keen sense of style, no guests under 12 are permitted.

Beach Nest GUESTHOUSE $ (%2489866; d ₹800-1000) Even the sand in

the yard is swept tidily clean each day at this spotless and exceedingly friendly little place that’s just a quick jungle-footpath walk to the beach. Upstairs rooms have balcony, kitchenettes and fridges, the owners are smiley and helpful, and the atmosphere’s serene and homey.

D’Mello’s Sea View Home HOTEL $$ (%2489650; dmellos_seaview_home@hotmail.com; d ₹1200-1800) Lovely breezy rooms are the

principle attraction at D’Mello’s, right at the edge of the beach. Rooms in the sea-facing building are divine, with only three walls: the fourth is your balcony, with huge, stunning views of the ocean. Even interior rooms are stylish, with perky colours and chic cotton bedspreads. All rooms are fastidiously clean and have mosquito nets, and the place is professionally (if a bit impersonally) run.

Villa Ludovici Tourist Home GUESTHOUSE $ (%2479684; Fort Aguada Rd; d incl breakfast ₹1000) Well-worn, creaky rooms in a grand

old Portuguese-style villa.

set around a small swimming pool at this friendly, professional place.

Vivanta by Taj HOTEL $$$ (%6645858; www.vivantabytaj.com; Sinquerim, r with AC from ₹10,000; aiWs) Upmarket

Bob’s Inn MULTICUISINE, BAR $$ (Fort Aguada Rd; mains ₹90-200; h10.30am-4pm & 6.30pm-midnight) Great fish dishes, relaxed am-

bience and old dudes – foreigners and locals alike – chillaxing at the community table. The African wall hangings, thatch everywhere, and terracotta sculptures are a nice backdrop to the rava (semolina wheat) fried mussels or the prawns ‘chilly fry’ with potatoes.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses run frequently to Panaji (₹12, 30 minutes) and Mapusa (₹12, 35 minutes) and stop at the turn-oﬀ near John’s Boat Tours. Calangute buses (₹5, 15 minutes) start at the Fort Aguada bus stop and can be flagged down on Fort Aguada Rd.

Taj hotel.

Calangute & Baga

5 Eating & Drinking Candolim’s plentiful beach shacks are popular places to eat; Pete’s Shack (mains ₹90230), on the northern end of the strip, may be the most elegant.

oCafé Chocolatti

CAFE, BAKERY $$

(Fort Aguada Rd; baked goods ₹40-100, mains ₹120-180; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) When you’re

tired of thalis or simply seeking sanctuary, treat yourself at this lovely tearoom, set in a green garden light years from the bustle of the beach. The cafe serves sandwiches and salads, but the chocolate’s the star. Order a slice of double-chocolate cake and sink back into cocoa heaven.

Stone House MULTICUISINE, BAR $$ (Fort Aguada Rd; mains ₹90-300; h10am-3pm & 6pm-midnight) Surf ’n’ turf’s the thing at this

venerable old Candolim venue, inhabiting a stone house and a leafy front courtyard. ‘Swedish Lobster’ cooked in beer tops the list, followed by other bold plates like flattened beef steak with mushroom and onion in spicy Goan sauce (₹250). There’s quality live music most nights of the week. Republic of Noodles ASIAN FUSION $$$ (Fort Aguada Rd; mains ₹375-450; h11am-3.30pm & 7-11pm) For a sophisticated dining experi-

813

POP 15,800

Once a refuge of wealthy Goans, and later a 1960s hot spot for naked, revelling hippies, Calangute today is popular with extended Indian families, groups of Indian bachelors and partying foreigners. If you want to experience authentic Indian (or Russian) tourism full-on, come to Calangute. The northern beach area can get crowded – including the water, which fills up with people, boats and jet skis – but the southern beach is more relaxed. Baga, to the north, meanwhile, is the place for drinking and dancing, and Northern Baga, across the Baga River, is surprisingly tranquil, with budget accommodation bargains clinging to the coast.

Activities

Water Sports

You’ll find numerous jet-ski and parasailing operators on Calangute and Baga beaches; H20 Adventure is the most established. Parasailing costs around ₹600 per ride, jet-skiing costs ₹1000 per 15 minutes, and water-skiing can be had for about ₹1200 per 10 minutes. Barracuda Diving DIVING (%2279409-14, 9822182402; www.barracudadiv ing.com; Sun Village Resort, Baga; courses from ₹4000) This long-standing diving school

NORTH I N& GBK&AG GOA E AT C A LGOA IANNGGE& UAT TDER IN I NDGAR I N K I N G

Candolim Villa Horizon View HOTEL $$ (%2489105; www.candolimvilla.com; d with AC ₹1500-2250; aiWs) Simple AC rooms are

ence, the RoN delivers with its dark bamboo interior, Buddha heads and floating candles. Delicious, huge noodle plates, wok stir-fries and clay-pot dishes are the order of the day – consider the coconut and turmeric curry of red snapper – and there are some exciting dishes for the veggies too.

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Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 1 Calangute Residency .......................... A1 2 Day Tripper ..........................................B3 ÿ Sleeping 3 Casa de Goa .........................................B2 4 Garden Court Resort........................... B1 5 Johnny's Hotel ..................................... A1 6 Ospy's Shelter......................................A3 ú Eating 7 A Reverie ..............................................A3 8 Casandré .............................................. A1 9 Infantaria .............................................. A1 10 Plantain Leaf ........................................ B1 û Drinking 11 Jerry's Place......................................... A1

St Anthony's Chapel

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To Saligao (5.5km)

Calangute

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oﬀers a range of dives and courses, including a free ‘Try Scuba’ family session every Monday. It’s also exceptional for its ‘Project A.W.A.R.E’, which undertakes marine-conservation initiatives and annual underwater and beach clean-ups.

Yoga & Ayurveda Ayurvedic Natural AYURVEDA, YOGA Health Centre (%2409275; www.healthandayurveda.com; Chogm Rd, Saligao; massages from ₹1200; h7.30am7.30pm) This highly respected centre, 5km

inland, oﬀers a range of massages and other ayurvedic treatments lasting from one hour to three weeks. Herbal medicines and consultations with an ayurvedic doctor are also available. For the more serious, professional courses are given here in ayurveda, yoga and other regimes; enquire well in advance. For the more spontaneous, drop-in yoga classes (₹300) are held daily. Some, but not all, buses from Baga/Calangute to Mapusa stop in Saligao, just near the centre; check before boarding. Boat Trips

Local fishers congregate around northern Baga beach, oﬀering dolphin-spotting trips (₹400 per person), visits to Anjuna Market (₹200 per person) and whole-day excursions

ý Entertainment 12 Kerkar Art Complex.............................B3 þ Shopping 13 Literati Bookshop & Cafe....................B3 Information 14 MGM International Travels ................. B1

to Arambol and Mandrem (₹1000 per person). Call friendly Eugenio (%9226268531).

T Tours

Day Tripper (%2276726; www.daytrippergoa .com; Gaura Vaddo, Calangute; h9am-5.30pm MonSat Nov-Apr), one of Goa’s best tour agencies,

runs a variety of trips around Goa, including two weekly to Dudhsagar Falls (₹1175) and another sailing through the mangroves of the Cumbarjua River (₹1300), as well as longer trips. GTDC tours can be booked online (www. goa-tourism.com) or at Calangute Residency (%2276024), by the beach.

4 Sleeping Calangute and Baga’s sleeping options are manifold. Generally, the quietest hotels lie in south Calangute, and across the bridge north of Baga. CALANGUTE Casa de Goa HOTEL $$$ (%2277777/9999; www.casadegoa.com; Tivai Vaddo; r/ste/cottages ₹5000/6000/7000; aiWs)

The beautiful Casa de Goa is popular with Indian families and books up months in

advance – for good reason. Portuguesestyle yellow-ochre buildings surround a pretty pool courtyard, decor is bright and fresh, and the big, clean rooms have safes, flatscreen TVs and new fridges, with other high-end and thoughtful touches. Cottages are across the street from the main hotel and may not get wi-fi. Ospy’s Shelter GUESTHOUSE $ (%2279505; oscar_fernandes@sify.com; d ₹600700) Tucked away in a quiet, lush little area

Johnny’s Hotel HOTEL $ (%2277458; s ₹400, d ₹600-900) Twelve basic

rooms in this backpacker-popular place make for a sociable stay, with regular classes available in yoga, reiki and the tantalisingly titled ‘metamorphic technique’. A range of apartments and houses are available for longer-stayers. Johnny’s is also home to a popular cafe: stop in for baked beans on toast for

style home, rooms here are set among pretty gardens and have balconies and cathedral-ish windows. Apartments rented for short stays when available.

BAGA Cavala Seaside Resort HOTEL $$ (%2276090; www.cavala.com; s/d/ste incl breakfast from ₹850/1300/2200; aWs) Classy, ivy-

clad Cavala has been charming Baga-bound travellers for more than 30 years, and continues to deliver clean, simple, nicely furnished rooms among a large complex with two swimming pools (₹150 for nonguests). There’s a good vibe about the place and friendly staﬀ, and the bar-restaurant cooks up a storm most evenings, with frequent live music. Divine Guest House GUESTHOUSE $$ (%2279546, 9370273464; www.indivinehome.com; s/d from ₹700/1000; aiW) The Divine wel-

comes you with a ‘Praise the Lord’ gatepost

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ARABIAN SEA

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ÿ Sleeping 2 Cavala Seaside Resort ........................A2 3 Divine Guest House .............................A2 Johnny's ....................................... (see 4) 4 Melissa Guest House...........................A2 5 Nani's Bar & Rani's Restaurant ..........A2 ú Eating 6 Britto's..................................................A2 7 J&A's..................................................... A1 8 Le Poisson Rouge ................................ A1 9 Lila Café................................................ A1

ý Entertainment 11 Café Mambo.........................................A3 12 Tito's .....................................................B3

# Ü

Activities, Courses & Tours 1 Barracuda Diving................................. B1

û Drinking 10 Sun Set .................................................A2

BAGA

a Cal

2ÿ #

815

Garden Court Resort GUESTHOUSE $ (%2276054; luarba@dataone.in; r ₹500-600, with AC ₹700-800, 1-/2-/3-bedroom apts ₹1000/ 1500/2500; a) Fronted by a Portuguese-

þ Shopping 13 Karma Collection.................................A2 14 Mackie's Saturday Nite Bazaar .......... B1 15 Tara Travels .........................................B3

NORTH G A GOA S LAELGOA C EAPNIG NSUGLTEEE P &I N B AG

full of palms and sandy paths between the beach and St Anthony’s Chapel, are a bunch of family-run guesthouses. Ospy’s, just a two-minute walk to the beach, is our favourite. Spotless upstairs rooms have fridges and balconies and look brand new even though they’re not, and the whole place has a cosy family feel. Check out the gorgeous old floor tiles on the ground floor.

breakfast (₹100) or spice up lunchtime with a Goan ‘veg vindaloo’ (₹70).

816

NILAYA HERMITAGE Spend a night at what may be Goa’s most sophisticated luxury hotel, 5km from the beach atop a verdant hill at Arpora, and you’ll be signing the guest book with the likes of Sean Connery, Manish Arora and Kate Moss. At Nilaya Hermitage (%2276793/94; www.nilaya.com; Arpora; d incl breakfast, dinner & spa €350; aiWs), red-stone laterite structures undulate around a swimming pool, and the 10 luxury rooms and four stunning tents could not be more elegantly styled. Everything is done in the colour of lapis lazuli or warm whites, set oﬀ by old brass, chunky wood and perfect touches. The food is as dreamy as the surroundings, and the spa’s sublime.

GOA N O R T H G OA

and keeps perky reminders throughout the place, so only stay here if you don’t mind cheerful proselytising. Rooms are sweet and homey, with bright colours, lots of kitsch and the odd individual touch, all at a quiet riverside location. Nani’s Bar & Rani’s GUESTHOUSE $$ Restaurant (%2276313; www.naniranigoa.com; r without/with AC ₹1300/1500; ai) Nani’s is as charming

as it is well situated, with clean, simply furnished rooms (think fresh paint, a working phone) set around a garden and a gorgeous colonial bungalow that overlook the water. Melissa Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (%2279583; d ₹500) Neat little rooms, all with

attached bathrooms and hot-water showers, comprise this quiet, good-value little place, pleasantly located in a lush spot near the water. Upstairs, Johnny’s (%2914000; d ₹600) is almost as good.

5 Eating Calangute and Baga have everything from fresh fish cooked up on the beach to the finest Scottish smoked salmon. The main beach strip is thick with vendors selling grilled corn, pav bhaji (spiced vegetables and bread) and luminescent candyfloss, as well as the usual beach-shack cuisine. Dining gets more sophisticated to the north and south. The market area, meanwhile, is filled with chai-and-thali joints, and vendors at Baga’s bus-stand area sell chai, omelettes and other nonveg snacks for super cheap. CALANGUTE

oPlantain Leaf

INDIAN $

(thalis ₹70-90, mains ₹75-150) On the 1st floor,

at a slight remove from the business of the intersection below, is the pure-veg Plantain Leaf. The many Indian families that fill the booths here know a good thing when they

see it: the tea is good, the place is cosy, busy and bright, and the veg thali might be the best you’ll get in Goa. Infantaria BAKERY, ITALIAN $$ (Calangute-Baga Rd; pastries ₹50-100, mains ₹110275; h7.30am-midnight) Next to the São João

Batista church is this delish bakery-turnedawesome-Italian-restaurant, loaded with homemade croissants, little flaky pastries, real coﬀee, Goan and Italian specialities, and lots of booze. The noticeboard here is a hotbed for all things current and countercurrent.

A Reverie CONTINENTAL $$$ (Holiday St; mains ₹315-575; h7pm-2am) A gor-

geous lounge-bar, all armchairs, cool jazz and sparkling crystals, this is the place to spoil yourself with the likes of Serrano ham, grilled asparagus, French wines and Italian cheeses. Try the delectable cream prawn velouté with fennel soup (₹250) or splurge on the smoked French mallard duck breast in madeira jus with sour cherries (₹995).

Casandré GOAN, MULTICUISINE $$ (mains ₹60-140; h8.30am-3pm & 6pm-midnight)

Housed in an old Portuguese-style bungalow, this dim and tranquil retreat seems mightily out of place amid the tourist tat of Calangute’s main beach drag. With a long and old-fashioned menu encompassing everything from ‘sizzlers’ to Goan specialities, and a cocktail list featuring the good old gimlet, this is a loveable time warp.

BAGA Le Poisson Rouge FRENCH $$$ (mains ₹310-390; h7pm-midnight) Baga man-

ages to do fine dining with aplomb, and this French-slanted experience is one of the picks of the place. Simple local ingredients are combined into winning dishes such as beetroot carpaccio (₹185) and red-snapper

masala (₹390), and served up beneath the stars.

SJ&A’s

ITALIAN $$$

(mains ₹305-445) A pretty cafe set around a

gorgeous Portuguese-style villa, this little slice of Italy is a treat even before the sumptuous, if rather pricey, food arrives. The jazz-infused garden and twinkling evening lights make for a romantic setting, too. Add to this triplefiltered water, electric car and composted leftovers, and you’ve got an experience that’s as earth-friendly as it is indulgent. $$

Britto’s MULTICUISINE, BAR (mains ₹95-260; h8.30am-midnight) A Baga

German-run place with home-baked breads, perfect, frothy cappuccinos and powerhouse mains like goulash with spaetzle.

institution. Tip: stick to the Goan seafood dishes.

Drinking & Entertainment

Baga’s club scene bubbles on long after the parties further north have been locked down. If you’re up for a night of decadent drinking or dancing on the tables, you’re in the right place. For something lower-key, go for the bars on Calangute’s main seaside road. Jerry’s Place

BAR

Also known as JJJ, Jerry’s Place is a cute little Calangute bar-resto that’s just dingy enough to keep things interesting. Snacks and basic Indian meals (from ₹50) are available, and surprisingly decent rooms (₹800) are just upstairs. Café Mambo NIGHTCLUB (%9822765002; www.titos.in; couple ₹500; h10.30pm-3am) Mambo’s is Baga’s club of

the moment: it’s slightly sophisticated (relative to Baga), with nightly DJs pumping out mostly commercial house and hip hop, and the occasional (Western) retro nights. Tito’s, just next door, used to be Baga’s ‘it’ club. It’s still worth a visit, especially for Bollywood nights. Cover, rules and hours are the same as Mambo’s, and for both clubs, women enter free, but unaccompanied gents don’t enter at all. Kerkar Art Complex CULTURAL PROGRAMS (%2276017, 9923958016; www.subodhkerkar.com; Holiday St; h10am-7pm) Showcasing the work

of local artist Dr Subodh Kerkar, this Calang-

817

Sun Set BAR, MULTICUISINE (h7.30am-10.30pm) Just a little spot to

watch the sunset and the boats with a drink; at low tide, you can walk through the water back to Baga beach.

Shopping

Both Mackie’s Saturday Nite Bazaar (www.mackiesnitebazaar.com), in Baga, and the larger Ingo’s Saturday Nite Bazaar (www .ingosbazaar.com), in Arpora, about 2km northeast of Baga, start around 6pm and are fun alternatives to Anjuna’s Wednesday market. They were running at the time of research but have been cancelled from time to time in recent years for reasons unclear. Ask around to see if they’re on. Karma Collection SOUVENIRS (www.karmacollectiongoa.com; h9.30am10.30pm) This fixed-price shop in Baga has

the usual patchwork wall hangings, but also antiques from across South Asia.

Literati Bookshop & Cafe BOOKSTORE (%2277740; www.literati-goa.com; h10am6.30pm Mon-Sat) A refreshingly different

bookstore, in the owners’ Calangute home. Ask about readings and other events.

Tara Travels BOOKSTORE (h9am-midnight Mon-Sat) A good selection

of new and secondhand books in Baga; it’s also a book exchange and travel agency.

8 Information

Currency exchange oﬃces, ATMs, pharmacies and tons of internet cafes cluster around Calangute’s main market and bus stand area, with several more (of everything) along the Baga and Candolim roads. MGM International Travels (www.mgmtravels .com; Umta Vaddo, Calangute; h9.30am6.30pm Mon-Sat) A long-established and trusted travel agency with competitive prices on domestic and international air tickets. Thomas Cook (%2282455; Calangute-Anjuna Rd, Calangute; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Currency exchange and the like.

8 Getting There & Around

Frequent buses to Panaji (₹14, 45 minutes) and Mapusa (₹10) depart from the Baga and Calangute bus stands, and a local bus (₹5) runs

NORTH IN GE R&ATA EN TAT I N M E N T GOA DA C R LIGOA NAKNIGNDUGRTI&EN EK &N BTAG I NTME ER N

Lila Café CAFE (mains ₹110-270; h8.30am-6pm Wed-Mon)

ute complex is most notable for the open-air music and dance recitals – on Tuesday and Thursday nights and some weekends – hosted by its multicuisine restaurant, Waves (mains ₹300-500; h11am-3pm & 7pm-2am).

between the Baga and Calangute stands every few minutes; catch it anywhere along the way. A prepaid taxi from Dabolim Airport to Calangute costs ₹645.

to almost nothing when the tide washes in, but when the tide goes out, it becomes a lovely, and surprisingly quiet, stretch of sand. For more action, paragliding (tandem rides ₹1500) sometimes takes place on market days oﬀ the headland at the southern end of the beach. If you’re looking to embellish yourself while in town, try Andy’s Tattoo Studio

Anjuna

(www.andys-tattoo-studio-anjuna-goa.com; hnoon7pm Mon-Sat), behind the San Francisco Res-

taurant and brimming with attitude. Drop in to make an appointment and get a quote for your permanent souvenir. Yoga

There’s lots of yoga, reiki and ayurvedic massage oﬀered around Anjuna; look for notices at Café Diogo and the German Bakery. Drop-in classes are organised by Avalon

Activities

Sunset (www.yogainternationalorganisation.com; classes ₹300-400) and at Brahmani Yoga (%9370568639; www.brahmaniyoga.com; classes

Anjuna’s charismatic, rocky beach runs for almost 2km from the northern village area to the flea market. The northern end shrinks

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Anjuna B

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GOA N O R T H G OA

Dear old Anjuna, that stalwart on India’s hippy scene, still drags out the sarongs and sandalwood each Wednesday for its famous – and once infamous – flea market. Though it continues to pull in droves of backpackers and long-term hippies, midrange tourists are also increasingly making their way here. The town itself might be a bit ragged around the edges these days, but that’s all part of its cosy charm, and Anjuna remains a favourite of long-stayers and first-timers alike.

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₹500), next to Hotel Bougainvillea. Also consider staying at Yoga Magic or the Ashtanga Purple Valley Yoga Retreat, both lovely resorts with longer-term yoga programs.

area is gorgeous, with lots of trees around. The grounds are so lush and shady, in fact, that the place seems a good few degrees cooler than the rest of Anjuna.

4 Sleeping

Vilanova GUESTHOUSE $ (%6450389, 9225904244; mendonca90@rediﬀ mail.com; d without/with AC ₹700/900; a) Big,

Hotel Bougainvillea HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (Granpa’s Inn; %2273270/71; www.granpasinn .com; d/ste incl breakfast & tax from ₹2200/2950; aWs) This old-fashioned hotel in a

200-year-old yellow mansion is ridiculously pretty. Elegant rooms have that rare combination of charm and luxury, and the pool

Anjuna æ Top Sights Flea Market ..........................................B4 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 1 Andy's Tattoo Studio ..........................A3 ÿ Sleeping 2 Faiz'd ....................................................B3 3 Florinda's Guest House.......................B3 4 Palacete Rodrigues ............................. D1 5 Paradise ............................................... B1 6 Peace Land........................................... B1 7 Sea Wave Inn ....................................... A1 8 Vilanova................................................ C1 ú Eating 9 6Pack Bar & Restaurant .....................B3 10 Avalon Sunset......................................A2 11 Café Diogo............................................C3 12 German Bakery....................................C3 13 Maria's Tea Stall ..................................B4 14 Shore Bar .............................................B3 15 Whole Bean Tofu Shop & Vegetaria ...........................................C3 û Drinking 16 Curlie's..................................................B4 17 Shiva Valley..........................................B4 Information 18 Speedy Travels .................................... C1

clean rooms have fridge, TV, 24-hour hot water and window screens and are set in three Portuguese-style bungalows in a cute little compound. There are good vibes and a comfortable family atmosphere, with friendly staﬀ and a good-value restaurant. We almost hate to tell anyone about it!

SYoga Magic

GUESTHOUSE $$$

(%6523796; www.yogamagic.net; s/d huts ₹4500/6000, ste ₹6000/8000; W) Solar light-

ing, vegetable farming and compost toilets are just some of the worthy initiatives practised in this ultraluxurious yoga resort, where hand-printed textiles, reclaimedwood furniture and organic, gourmet vegetarian food are the order of the day. ‘Huts’ are of the stunning, dramatic Rajasthani variety. Rates include breakfast; daily yoga classes cost an extra ₹400 per session.

Faiz’d GUESTHOUSE $ (%9619855350; tents ₹800) The spacious,

high-end tents here are lined with embroidered fabric, have tile floors and attached bathrooms, and are set in pretty grounds – like a little tent village – with winding, lamplit paths. The location, a stone’s throw from the beach, isn’t bad, either.

Palacete Rodrigues HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%2273358, 9422056467; www.palacetegoa.com; s/d from ₹850/1000, d/ste with AC ₹1550/1750; a) This old-fashioned mansion, filled with

antiques, odd corners and bags of fun, tacky charm, is as cool and quirky as they come. Choose your theme: rooms come in Chinese, Vietnamese, Portuguese and, of course, Goan flavours.

Paradise GUESTHOUSE $ (%9922541714; janet_965@hotmail.com; AnjunaMapusa Rd; d ₹600-800, with AC ₹1500; a) The

friendly, homey Paradise is fronted by an old Portuguese house, and its clean rooms are set in rustic grounds full of crowing roosters and sleeping cats. Proprietor Janet and her enterprising family also run a general store, restaurant, internet cafe (₹40 per hour), travel agency, money exchange, Western Union services and beauty parlour (₹250 for

NORTH GOA S LNEGOA A JEUPNI ANSGL E E P I N G

Most accommodation and other useful services are sprinkled along the beach, or down shady inland lanes. Dozens of rooms of the largely concrete cell variety run along Anjuna’s northern cliﬀtop stretch; most come in at ₹400 to ₹600 per night. There are also plenty of small, family-run guesthouses tucked back from the main beach strip, oﬀering nicer double rooms for a similar price; take your pick from the dozens of ‘Rooms to Let’ signs.

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GOA’S FLEA MARKET EXPERIENCE: GOAN, GOAN, GONE? Wednesday’s weekly flea market at Anjuna is as much part of the Goan experience as a day on a deserted beach. More than two decades ago, it was the sole preserve of hippies smoking jumbo joints and convening to compare experiences on the heady Indian circuit. Nowadays, things are far more staid and mainstream, and package tourists seem to beat out independent travellers in both numbers and purchasing power. A couple of hours here and you’ll never want to see a mirrored bedspread, brass figurine or floaty Indian cotton dress again in your life. That said, it’s still a good time, and you can find some interesting one-oﬀ souvenirs and clothing in among the tourist tat. Remember to bargain hard and take along equal quantities of patience and stamina, applicable to dealing with local and expat vendors alike.

GOA N O R T H G OA

head massages). You name it and Janet can probably arrange it for you.

promptu party. Head to either to find out what’s on.

Florinda’s Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (%9890216520, 9762331032; r ₹400-900) One of

Shore Bar MULTICUISINE $$ (mains ₹120-400) Anjuna has lots of cliﬀside

the better cheapies near the beach, Florinda’s has clean rooms, with 24-hour hot water and window screens, set around a garden with the world’s tiniest pool. Peace Land GUESTHOUSE $ (%2273700; s/d ₹450/600; W) Rooms here are

small but arranged around a tranquil courtyard garden. There’s also a pool table here, a chill-out area and a small shop selling basic provisions. Customer service could use some help though. Purple Valley Yoga Retreat GUESTHOUSE $$$ (%2268364; www.yogagoa.com; 142 Bairo Alto, Assagao; s) This popular yoga resort in

nearby Assagao offers one- and two-week residential courses in Ashtanga yoga; weekly rates, which include accommodation, classes and meals, begin at £480 per person.

Sea Wave Inn HOTEL $ (Sea Queen; %2274455; seaqueenanjuna@gmail. com; Anjuna-Mapusa Rd; r without/with AC ₹800/1000; a) Good rooms and friendly

staff, and the outdoor restaurant, which shows movies and sports on a big screen, is a fun night-time hang-out.

5 Eating & Drinking Inside the flea market on market days (Wednesdays), look for the teensy Maria’s Tea Stall (snacks from ₹10), selling tasty chai and snacks made by colourful elderly local Maria herself. Curlie’s (mains ₹80-250; h9am-3am) and Shiva Valley (mains ₹80240; h8am-midnight), both big, loud barrestaurants, are good for an evening sunset drink, an alternative crowd and the odd im-

cafes with the standard traveller-orientated menus, happy hours and stunning coastal views, but the food is overwhelmingly mediocre. Shore Bar is the exception: the grilled baguettes, seafood, and especially coﬀees are supergood (at a price), the walls are adorned with cool art, and loungy day beds and sofas are full of happy, mellow dreadlocked customers. Shore also has a no-commission art gallery and rooms out back. There were rumours at research time about relocating; we hope it’s still there by the time you arrive. German Bakery MULTICUISINE $$ (pastries ₹30-50, mains ₹70-170; W) Leafy and

filled with prayer flags, jolly lights and atmospheric curtained nooks, this is a perfect place for a relaxed dinner. Innovative tofu dishes are a speciality: this may be your only chance to try tofu tikka (₹150). There’s live music and sometimes Middle Eastern dancers on Wednesday night and round-theclock wi-fi (₹100 per hour). Café Diogo CAFE $ (Market Rd; snacks ₹30-100; h8am-5pm) Prob-

ably the best fruit salads in the world are sliced and diced at Café Diogo, a small locally run cafe on the way to the market. Also worth a munch are the generous toasted avocado, cheese and mushroom sandwiches. Whole Bean Tofu Shop & Vegetaria CAFE $$ (Market Rd; mains ₹60-150; h8am-5pm) One of

the only places in Goa where vegans can eat well, this tofu-filled health-food cafe focuses on all things created from that most versatile of beans. Breakfasts include eggs (for the nonvegans) and a surprisingly good tofu scramble with onions and toast (₹130).

6Pack Bar & Restaurant MULTICUISINE, BAR $$ (Market Rd; mains ₹60-200; h9am-midnight)

Everyone loves 6Pack for its excellent ‘traditional’ – that’s code for beef – cheeseburgers (₹170), pool table, and festive vibe when sports are shown on the big screen upstairs. Avalon Sunset MULTICUISINE (mains ₹50-140; W) Nice views but so-so

food; we only mention it for the wi-fi (₹40 per hour).

8 Information

8 Getting There & Away

Buses to Mapusa (₹10) depart every half-hour or so from the main bus stand near the beach; some from Mapusa continue on to Vagator and Chapora. Two daily buses to Calangute depart from the main crossroads. Cabs and pilots gather at both stops, and you can hire scooters and motorcycles easily from the crossroads.

placid garden not far from the path down to Little Vagator Beach, this place, run by a

Vagator & Chapora

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GUESTHOUSE $

æ Top Sights Chapora Fort........................................ A1

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Chapora Fort # V ARABIAN

You’ll see lots of signs for ‘rooms to let’ in private homes and guesthouses along Ozran Beach Rd and on side roads too. Most charge around ₹500 per double. (%2273166; d ₹800-1000) Arranged around a

Dramatic red-stone cliﬀs, dense green forests and a crumbling 17th-century Portuguese fort provide Vagator and its diminutive neighbour Chapora with one of the prettiest

VAGATOR

oShalom

Vagator & Chapora

4 Sleeping

ÿ Sleeping 1 Alcove Resort.......................................A2 2 Bean Me Up Soya Station ...................B2 3 Casa de Olga ........................................ A1 4 Garden Villa..........................................A2 5 Janies....................................................A2 6 Paradise on the Earth..........................A2 7 Shalom .................................................A2 ú Eating Bean Me Up Soya Station ............(see 2) 8 Jai Ganesh Fruit Juice Centre............. B1 9 Mango Tree Bar & Café.......................A2 10 Scarlet Cold Drinks.............................. B1 11 Sunrise Restaurant ............................. B1 12 Thalassa ...............................................A2 13 Yangkhor Moonlight ............................A2 û Drinking 14 Nine Bar................................................A2 þ Shopping 15 Rainbow Bookshop..............................B2

821

NORTH GOA 8 GOA VAG AT O 8R & C H A P O R A

Anjuna has three ATMs, clustered together about 100m east of Bank of Baroda (h9.30am2.30pm), which gives cash advances on Visa and MasterCard. Om Sai Internet (Anjuna-Mapusa Rd; per hr ₹40; h10.30am-11pm Mon-Sat) Speedy Travels (%2273266; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) Reliable agency for air and train ticket booking, a range of tours (including one to Dudhsagar Falls), and creditcard advances or currency exchange.

settings on the north Goan coast. Once known for their wild trance parties and heady, hippy lifestyles, things have slowed down considerably these days, though Chapora – reminiscent of Star Wars’ Mos Eisley Cantina – remains a fave for smokers, with the smell of charas hanging heavy in the air. It also has slightly more personality than Vagator, but fewer eating and sleeping options. If you’re keen to see the remnants of the trance scene, hang around long enough in Vagator and you’ll likely be handed a flyer for a party (many with international DJs), which can range from divine to dire. You may also catch wind of something going down in a hidden location. If you’re lucky, it won’t have been closed down by the time you get there.

822

WHERE’S THE PARTY? Though Goa was long legendary among Western visitors for its all-night, open-air Goan trance parties, a central government ‘noise pollution’ ban on loud music in open spaces between 10pm and 6am has largely curbed its often notorious, drug-laden party scene: Goa simply does not party the way it used to. With a tourist industry to nurture, however, authorities tend to turn a blind eye to parties during the peak Christmas–New Year period. Late nights are also allowed in interior spaces, which is why clubs carry on without problems. If you’re looking for the remainder of the real party scene, though, you’ll need to cross your fingers, keep your ear close to the ground, and wait out for word in Vagator or Anjuna.

GOA N O R T H G OA

friendly family (whose home is on site), has a variety of extremely well-kept rooms, and a two-bedroom apartment for long-stayers. Janies GUESTHOUSE $ (%2273635, 9850057794; janiesricardo@yahoo .com; d ₹800, 1-/2-bed bungalow ₹1200/1500) A

great choice for long-stayers, run by a very friendly woman and with a simple but homey vibe. The two double rooms each come equipped with fridge and TV, and the three large bungalows have either one or two bedrooms and full-on kitchen. Bean Me Up Soya Station HOTEL $ (%2273479; www.myspace.com/beanmeupindia; d ₹680, without bathroom ₹475; W) The rooms

around a leafy, parachute-silky courtyard might look a bit cell-like from the outside, but step in and you’ll be pleased to find that the billowing silks and mellow, earthy shades follow you there. Scooters are available for rent, and there’s a great vegetarian restaurant. Paradise on the Earth BEACH HUTS $ (%2273591; www.moondance.co.nr; huts without bathroom ₹500-1000) Simple bamboo huts

(not too common in these parts) clinging to the cliﬀ above Little Vagator Beach are great value for the beachside location, though the name might be a little overkill. Garden Villa GUESTHOUSE (%6529454, 9822104780; Vagator Beach Rd; r ₹250-500) Big, clean, cheap and friendly,

on pretty grounds near Vagator Beach. Room No 14 has an old four-poster. CHAPORA

Head down the road to the harbour and you’ll find lots of rooms – and whole homes – for rent; check out a few before you commit. Casa de Olga GUESTHOUSE $ (%2274355, 9822157145; r ₹1500, without bathroom ₹500) This exceedingly welcoming fam-

ily place has rooms arranged around a pretty

garden in a variety of sizes. The cheaper ones are basic (but comfy and clean), while the pricier ones have hot showers, kitchenette with fridge, and balcony. It’s in a pretty spot near the harbour, too.

5 Eating VAGATOR

A few eating options cluster around the entrance to Little Vagator Beach, along with the usual slew of much-of-a-muchness beach shacks down on the sands.

oThalassa

GREEK $$

(%9850033537; mains ₹180-400; h4pm-midnight)

Authentic and ridiculously good Greek food is served here alfresco on a breezy terrace to the sound of the sea just below. Go for the specials; when we visited, beef stifado (₹270) and lamb meatballs in red sauce (₹320) were on the list. But veggie dishes also excel. The spanakorizo (spinach and rice cooked with Greek olive oil and herbs and topped with feta; ₹230) is hearty and deceptively simple: the fresh ingredients and expert preparation are what made us swoon. Reservations essential. Thalassa also has huts (₹1000), which are almost as classy as the restaurant.

oYangkhor

TIBETAN, MULTICUISINE $$ Moonlight (mains ₹70-200) Superfresh food is glorified

in the Tibetan and even the Italian dishes here. The veg momo (Tibetan dumpling) soup (₹80)? You’ll die. The pasta? F-ing delish. The chairs and tablecloths are plastic and the walls are lime green, but – maybe because of the friendly service and the soft Chinese pop music – it’s cosy to boot.

Mango Tree Bar & Café MULTICUISINE $$ (mains ₹90-210; h9am-4am) With loud reggae,

crappy service, dark-wood furniture and mango-colour walls, a sometimes rambunc-

tious bar scene, terracotta lanterns, and a good vibe, Mango Tree is an ever-popular place for all that and for its really good food. Films or sports are screened most nights. Bean Me Up MULTICUISINE, VEGAN $$ Soya Station (Ozran Beach Rd; mains ₹120-250; h8am-4pm & 7-11pm) Oh, veggies and vegans, you’ve had

CHAPORA

Chapora’s eating situation is not as evolved as Vagator’s. Little restaurants pepper the centre (such as it is), but they’re reliable only for caloric intake. Sunrise Restaurant (mains ₹70-150) is nothing special but good enough, with friendly service, while the very popular Scarlet Cold Drinks (juices & snacks ₹20-80) and Jai Ganesh Fruit Juice Centre (juices ₹20-70) are both in close proximity to the thickest gusts of charas smoke. Scarlet has an exceptionally good noticeboard, while Jai Ganesh has cold coﬀee and avocado lassis.

Drinking & Entertainment

Aside from secretive parties, there’s not as much going on in Vagator and Chapora these days; gone are the all-nighters and the beach trance is now turned oﬀ promptly at 10pm. But Chapora’s extremely mellow hole-in-thewall bars are a certain kind of entertainment; Vagator’s Nine Bar (h6pm-4am) and Hill Top, on the Anjuna road, are still thumping on; and the Russians, having taken the party crown away from the Israelis, seem to create nightlife in various spots around town.

Shopping

Rainbow Bookshop BOOKSTORE (h10am-2pm & 3-7pm) In Vagator, this lovely

little shop, run by a charming elderly gentleman, stocks a good range of secondhand and new books.

8 Information

Vagator’s sole ATM is at Corporation Bank on the road to Anjuna. Plenty of internet places are scattered around town, but Mira Cybercafe

823

8 Getting There & Away

Frequent buses run from Chapora, through Vagator, to Mapusa (₹10) throughout the day, many via Anjuna. The buses start in Chapora village, but there are a couple of other stops in Chapora and Vagator. We couldn’t find any bicycles to rent here, sadly (ask around; it’s a supply-and-demand thing), but prices for scooters/motorbikes tend to be around ₹200/300 per day in high season.

Morjim & Asvem Morjim and Asvem, a pretty strip of mostly empty sand, is one of the very few beaches where sunbathing doesn’t attract hordes of hawkers, dogs and onlookers. The water, though, does suﬀer from a bit of river runoﬀ pollution and cannot ever be described as crystal clear. Nonetheless, rare olive ridley turtles nest at the beach’s southern end from September to February, so this is a protected area, which, in theory at least, means no development and no rubbish. Morjim and Asvem have a handful of low-key beach shacks and several places to stay and eat, including the beachfront Goan Café (%2244394; www .goancafe.com; huts ₹1150-1350, without bathroom ₹800, apt from ₹1250; a), whose three brother-

owners might well be the friendliest and most helpful hotel owners in Goa; Meems’ Beach

Resort (%3290703; www.meemsbeachresort .com; d/q huts from ₹1500/3500; W), which has

a range of huts and rooms also right on the beach, along with free wi-fi and an atmospheric restaurant; and La Plage (mains ₹215315), known for its high-caliber French food.

Mandrem Peaceful, quiet, hidden Mandrem has in recent years become a refuge for those seeking a break from the traveller scenes of Arambol and Anjuna – and those who avoided the scene to begin with. The beach is beautiful, and there’s little to do but laze on it. Cocohuts can be had for around ₹500. It’s not easy to get here by public transport; hire a scooter or cab in Arambol. There’s lots of yoga around, mostly taught by foreigners each season. Himalaya Yoga

Valley (%9922719982; www.yogagoaindia.com)

specialises in hatha and ashtanga teachertraining courses, but also has walk-in classes (₹300) twice daily.

NORTH I ENTM GE R&TA EN TAT I N M E N T GOA D ROIGOA M RNJKI IMNDG &R I& ANSEKVN I NTME ER N

a hard time in Goa. Come here and relax in the garden, full of tall trees and black pepper vines, and eat tofu Thai curry (₹230) or seitan fried onion (₹130) to your heart’s delight, followed by lusciously egg-less desserts. The all-veg restaurant also has breakfasts, juices and even a bar, and an on-site shop sells tofunaise and soysage.

2000 (Ozran Beach Rd; h9am-2pm & 3-11pm; per hr ₹40) is best.

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4 Sleeping & Eating oDunes

2 BEACH HUTS $

(%2247219; www.dunesgoa.com; d/q huts ₹950/ 1500; i) Pretty huts here are peppered around

a palm-forest allée leading to the beach, and at night, globe lamps light up the place like a palm-tree dreamland. Dunes also has friendly, helpful staﬀ, a good restaurant on the beach, and clean, cosy, muslin-lined huts with mosquito nets and balconies with comfy chairs or couches. It’s a peaceful, feel-good kind of place, with yoga classes, yoga teachers -to-be hanging around drinking healthful juices, and a marked absence of trance.

GOA N O R T H G OA

Cuba Retreat HOTEL $$ (%2645775; www.cubagoa.com; d without/with AC ₹1250/1550; a) The sheets here are tucked in

tight (we heart fastidiousness!) and rooms are clean and tidy as anything, but Cuba really scores for its retro white-and-kelly-green exterior, kind staﬀ and good bar-restaurant in the courtyard, which is also home to a hanging swing. Oasis on the Beach BEACH HUTS $$ (%9822163886; r/huts ₹1500/2000) A great,

slightly higher-end beach-hut option, Oasis has some huts with balconies overlooking the sea, and an excellent ayurvedic-massage centre (massages from ₹1000). Oasis’s beachfront restaurant gets rave reviews, too, especially for its seafood and tandoori dishes. Villa River Cat GUESTHOUSE $$$ (%2247928; www.villarivercat.com; d ₹20003800; a) This unusual circular guesthouse

is filled with art, antiques and a lot of spunk, but it should be even spunkier (and friendlier) for the price.

Arambol (Harmal) Arambol first emerged in the 1960s as a mellow paradise for long-haired long-stayers, and ever since, travellers attracted to the hippy atmosphere have been drifting up to this blissed-out corner of Goa, setting up camp and, in some cases, never leaving. As a result, in the high season the beach and the road leading down to it (the town is basically one road) can get pretty crowded – with huts, people and nonstop stalls selling the usual tourist stuﬀ. If you’re looking for a committed traveller vibe, this is the place to come; if you’re seeking laid-back languidness, you might be better oﬀ heading down the coast to Mandrem or Morjim.

Activities

Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre YOGA (www.hiyogacentre.com) A popular spot for Iy-

engar yoga, with five-day courses (beginning on Fridays; ₹3000), intensive workshops, children’s classes, and teacher training all available. The centre is a five-minute walk from the beach, oﬀ the main road; look for the big banner. HI also has huts (s/d without bathroom ₹250/300) for students. Arambol Hammocks PARAGLIDING (%9822389005; www.arambol.com; per 20min ₹1800; h9am-6pm) Paragliding and kite surf-

ing are getting big in Arambol, and several operators give lessons and rent equipment on the very south of Arambol beach. At the north end, Arambol Hammocks is a more established paragliding option, and it also sells…hammocks.

4 Sleeping Accommodation in Arambol is almost all of the budget variety, and it pays to trawl the cliﬀside to the north and south of Arambol’s main beach stretch for the best hut options. It’s almost impossible to book in advance: simply turn up early in the day to check out who’s checking out. The area around the Narayan temple (take a left turn oﬀ the main road as you enter town), also has several guesthouses of similar quality. Chilli’s HOTEL $ (%9921882424; s/d ₹300/400) This clean and

simple place, owned by superfriendly and helpful Derick Fernandes, is one of Arambol’s best nonbeachside bargains. Chilli’s oﬀers 10 nice, no-frills rooms on the beach road, near the beach entrance, all with attached bathroom, fan and hot-water shower; there’s an honour system for buying bottled water, self-service, from the fridge on the landing.

Shree Sai Cottages BEACH HUTS $$ (%3262823, 9420767358; shreesai_cottages@ yahoo.com; huts without bathroom ₹1000) A short

walk north from the main Arambol beach, Shree Sai has a calm, easygoing vibe and really cute hut-cottages with little balconies and lovely views out over the water. Maybe the best of the beach-hut bunch.

Om Ganesh BEACH HUTS $ (%9404436447; r & huts ₹800) Popular huts

right on the edge of the water, as well as rooms, managed by the friendly Sudir. The seaside Om Ganesh Restaurant is also a

great place for lunch or dinner. Note that everyone in the area will tell you that their place is Om Ganesh; it’s a family enterprise. Call ahead to avoid confusion. Lamuella GUESTHOUSE $ (%9822486314; s/d ₹600/900) Cute, charm-

ing rooms with curtains made from saris, built-in cathedral-arch shelving, pretty mosaic tiles around mirrors and little balconies. Far from the beach though.

Internet outfits, travel agents and money changers are as common as monsoon frogs on the road leading down to Arambol’s beach, while several agencies toward the top of the road also oﬀer parcel services by post, FedEx and DHL. The closest ATM is in Siolim, about 12km south. JBL Enterprises (per hr ₹40; h8.30am10.30pm) Internet cafe, travel agency, money and ISD: one-stop shopping.

825

8 Getting There & Around

5 Eating & Drinking

Shimon MIDDLE EASTERN $ (light meals ₹60-120; h9am-11pm) If you can

navigate the surly service and total lack of ambience, then fill up on an exceptional falafel (₹90) at Israeli-owned Shimon before hitting the beach. For something more unusual, go for sabikh (₹100), aubergine slices stuﬀed into pita bread with boiled egg, potato, salad and spicy relishes. Follow either up with Turkish coﬀee (₹35). Fellini ITALIAN $$ (mains ₹140-280; h11am-11pm) Pizza’s the big

deal here – the menu has no fewer than 41 diﬀerent kinds – and the pastas, calzones and paninis, especially with seafood, are also tasty. The tiramisu (₹60) will keep you up at night, thinking back on it fondly.

Double Dutch MULTICUISINE $$ (mains ₹110-290) An ever-popular option

for its steaks, salads, Thai and Indonesian dishes, and famous apple pies, all in a pretty garden setting. The noticeboard here is also worth a peruse, maybe while munching on a plateful of cookies or a huge sandwich.

German Bakery BAKERY, MULTICUISINE $ (Welcome Inn; pastries ₹20-60, mains ₹40-75) This

rather dim and dingy corner cafe is surprisingly popular, with so-so pastries (eg lemon cheese pie, ₹50), big breakfasts (₹100 to ₹140) and Arambol’s best masala chai.

this place tucked away from the Arambol action.

Buses to Mapusa (₹20, 1½ hours) depart from Arambol village every half-hour. It’s only about 1.5km from the main beach area, but you’re lucky if you get a cab, or even an autorickshaw, for ₹50. A prepaid taxi to Arambol from Dabolim Airport costs ₹975; from Mapusa it’s ₹400. Lots of places in Arambol rent scooters and motorbikes, for ₹200 and ₹300, respectively, per day; we like Derick’s, at Chilli’s, the best.

SOUTH GOA Margao (Madgaon) POP 94,400

The capital of Salcete province, Margao (also known as Madgaon) is the main population centre of south Goa and is a friendly, bustling market town of a manageable size for getting things done, or for getting in and out of the state. If you’re basing yourself in south Goa, it’s great for shopping, organising travel arrangements or simply enjoying the busy energy of big-city India without big-city hassles. It’s also your best base for visiting Chandor, Quepem or Dudhsagar Falls.

1 Sights Margao has plenty of shopping opportunities, and the covered MMC New Market (h8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat) is one of the most colourful in all of Goa. It’s also worth a walk around the lovely, small Largo de Igreja district, home to lots of atmospherically crumbling and gorgeously restored old Portuguese homes, and the quaint and richly decorated 17th-century Church of the Holy Spirit, particularly impressive when a Sunday morning service is taking place. The church also hosts services at 4pm on weekdays but is open erratically at other times. The administrative heart of the city, the Municipal Building, is home to the dusty and awesome Municipal Library (h8am-8pm

SOUTH GGK&AO GOA E AT M AGOA RI G N AO G E&AT (D MIRANIDN I NDGNR)I N K I N G

Sparkly and parachute-silk-draped places to eat are everywhere in Arambol. Many change annually, but 21 Coconuts (for seafood) and Relax Inn (for Italian) are mainstays. For simpler fare, head up to Arambol village, by the bus stop, where small local joints will whip you up a thali (₹40) and a chai (₹4).

Outback Bar MULTICUISINE (mains ₹70-150) Seafood’s a speciality at

8 Information

Margao (Madgaon)

0 e # 0

Margao (Madgaon)

200 m 0.1 miles

# Kadamba ›

Bus Stand

To Ponda (17km)

æ Top Sights Church of the Holy Spirit ....................B2 MMC New Market................................B4

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826

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Eras Miguel L F Rd Carva mo lho Rd

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Valaulikar Rd

6 6 ò #

Municipal Gardens 4 ú #

Information 8 DHL .......................................................B4 9 Margao Residency...............................A4 Reliance Cybercafe ......................(see 2) Transport 10 Paulo Travel Masters ..........................A4

# ÿ ì # 2

Is Bap idoro 8 tist aR # 4 Ru d e L o F de 6 ú # iol a Luis Miranda # # Rd # MMC New # RStatioæ ÿ 10 9 3 d n Market

ð 1 # 5 # # æ ú

ú Eating 4 Café Tato..............................................B4 5 Longhuino's..........................................A4 6 SwaD.....................................................B4 þ Shopping 7 Golden Heart Emporium.....................A3

þ # # ñ

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Pad re Mi ran

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Abade Faria Rd

GOA S O U T H G OA

Damodar Þ # Temple

ÿ Sleeping 2 Hotel Tanish.........................................B4 3 Om Shiv Hotel ......................................B4

LARGO DE IGREJA

æ Sights 1 Municipal Library.................................A4

# ›

Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 4-7pm Sat & Sun), which has some great books on Goa and a retro reading room where you can read the paper along with lots of gents in button-downs.

4 Sleeping

Hotel Tanish HOTEL $ (%2735656; Reliance Trade Centre, Valaulikar Rd; s/d ₹600/850, s/d/ste with AC ₹750/1050/ 1600; a) The best place to stay in town –

bright-yellow building tucked away behind the Bank of India, Om Shiv does a fine line in ‘executive’ rooms, which all have AC, balcony and an ordered air. But it’s mostly worth recommending for the suites, which have exceptional views, or as a Tanish backup.

5 Eating

SwaD INDIAN $ (New Market; veg thalis ₹40-75, mains ₹60-85)

Margao’s best veg food, hands down, is at the family-friendly, lunch-break favourite SwaD, across from Lotus Inn. The thalis are reliably delish, as are the snacks, South Indian tiﬃns, mains and all the other stuﬀ on the 12-page menu of pure-veg scrumptiousness.

incongruously located on the top floor of a mall – has really kind staﬀ and tidy, wellequipped rooms with great views of the surrounding countryside. Suites come with a bathtub, big TV and views all the way to Colva. Just make sure to ask for an outsidefacing room; some overlook the mall interior. The hotel is near Grace Church.

Longhuino’s GOAN, MULTICUISINE $$ (Luis Miranda Rd; mains ₹60-150) Since 1950,

Om Shiv Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2710294; www.omshivhotel.com; Cine Lata Rd; s/d/ste with AC from ₹1100/1400/2500; a) In a

Café Tato INDIAN $ (Valaulikar Rd; thalis ₹50, mains ₹50-80; hMonSat) A favourite local lunch spot: tasty

quaint old Longhuino’s bar and restaurant, with its old wooden chairs and slow service, has been serving up tasty Goan, Indian and Chinese dishes popular with locals and tourists alike. Go for the pork vindaloo (₹90) or the fried mussels with salad (₹120).

vegetarian fare in a bustling backstreet canteen.

Shopping

Golden Heart Emporium BOOKSTORE (Confidant House, Abade Faria Rd; h10am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat) One of Goa’s best book-

stores, crammed with fiction, nonfiction and illustrated books on the state’s food, architecture and history.

8 Information

8 Getting There & Around

BUS Government and private long-distance bus-

es both depart from Kadamba bus stand, about 2km north of the municipal gardens. Private buses ply interstate routes several times a day and can be booked at oﬃces all over town; try Paulo Travel Masters (%2702922; 1st fl, Bella Vista Apt, Luis Miranda Rd; h8am-7.30pm). Sample long-distance high-season fares: Bengaluru ₹400, 14 hours, one daily in evening Bengaluru private; without/with AC ₹1000/1500, 13 hours Gokarna ₹95, one daily Hampi private; ₹1000-1200, nine hours Hospet ₹240, 10 hours, one daily in evening Mumbai private; without/with AC ₹800/1400, 14 hours Palolem ₹27, one hour, every 30 minutes Panaji express; ₹26, 45 minutes, every few minutes Pune ₹400, 12 hours, one daily in evening Pune private; without/with AC ₹800/1100, 11 hours Vasco da Gama ‘shuttle’; ₹35, 45 minutes, hourly (stops near Dabolim Airport on request)

Chandor The lush village of Chandor, 15km east of Margao, makes a perfect day away from the beaches, and it’s here, more than anywhere else in the state, that the once opulent lifestyles of Goa’s former landowners, who found favour with the Portuguese aristocracy, are still visible in its strings of quietly decaying colonial-era mansions. If you’re around in January, Chandor hosts the colourful Feast of the Three Kings on the 6th, during which local boys re-enact the arrival of the three kings from the Christmas story. Braganza House, built in the 17th century, is possibly the best example of what Goa’s scores of once grand and glorious mansions have today become. Built on land granted by the King of Portugal, the house was divided from the outset into two wings, to house two sides of the same big family. The West Wing (%2784201; h9am-5pm) belongs to one set of the family’s descendants, the MenezesBragança, and is filled with gorgeous chandeliers, Italian marble floors, 250-year-old, locally made rosewood furniture, and antique treasures from Macau, Portugal, China and Europe. The elderly Mrs Aida MenezesBragança nowadays lives here alone, but will show you around with the help of her assistant. Between them, they struggle valiantly with the upkeep of a beautiful but needy house, whose grand history oozes from every inch of wall, floor and furniture. Next door, the

827

SOUTH SRH GOA S H GOA C O AN PP DION GO P P I N G

Banks oﬀering currency exchange and 24-hour ATMs are all around town, especially near the municipal gardens and along Luis Miranda Rd. Apollo Victor Hospital (%2728888; Station Rd, Malbhat) Reliable medical services. Cyberlink (Abade Faria Rd; per hr ₹20; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Not the best, but it’ll do. DHL (Gurusai Plaza, Isidoro Baptista Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Main post office (h9am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat) North of the Municipal Gardens. Margao Residency (%2715096; www.goa -tourism.com) Book GTDC trips here. Reliance Cybercafe (1st fl, Reliance Trade Centre, Valaulikar Rd; per hr ₹30; h9.30am7pm) Fastest and friendliest. Thomas Cook (Mabai Hotel Bldg; h9.30am6pm Mon-Sat)

Local buses to Benaulim (₹7), Betul (₹15), Colva (₹10) and Palolem (₹27) also swing by the bus stop on the east side of the Municipal Gardens every 15 minutes or so. TAXI Taxis are plentiful around the municipal gardens, train station and Kadamba bus stand, and they’ll go anywhere in Goa, including Palolem (₹700), Panaji (₹700), Calangute (₹900), Anjuna (₹1100) and Arambol (₹1600). Except for the train station, where there’s a prepaid booth, you’ll have to negotiate the fare with the driver. Autorickshaws and pilots are the most popular way to get around town; most trips cost ₹50 and ₹30, respectively. TRAIN Margao’s well-organised train station, about 2km south of town, serves the Konkan Railway and other routes. Its reservation hall (%information 2712790, PNR enquiry 2700730; h8am-2pm & 2.15-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) is on the 1st floor. Services to Mumbai, Mangalore, Ernakulum and Thiruvananthapuram are the most frequent. See p807 for more train information.

828

MAJOR TRAINS FROM MARGAO (MADGAON) DURATION (HR)

DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)

Ahmedabad (via Vadodara)

6338 Okha Express

371/1013/1394 20

10.45am Thu, Sat

Chennai (Madras)

7312 Vasco-da-GamaChennai Express

343/936/1286

3.15pm Thu

Delhi

2431 Rajdhani Express

2035/2615

10.15am Tue, Thu, Fri

Hubli

7312 Vasco-da-GamaChennai Express

124/316/427

3.15pm Thu 7.25pm

Ernakulum

GOA S O U T H G OA

Mangalore Mumbai (Bombay)

Pune

DEPARTURES

2618 Lakshadweep Express

325/857/1167

14½

6345 Netravati Express

345/827/1137

15½

10.40pm

2618 Lakshadweep Express

214/544/732

7.30pm

0112 Konkan Kanya Express

288/782/1073

6pm

0104 Mandovi Express

288/782/1073

9.30am

2052 Jan Shatabdi Express

197/680

2.30pm

2779 Goa Express

264/688/930

3.45pm

1355/1770

12.40pm Mon, Wed, Thu

347/947/1302

10.40pm

Thiruvananthapuram 2432 Rajdhani Express 6345 ThiruvananthapuramNetravati Express

Rajdhani fares are 3AC/2AC; Shatabdi fares are 2S/CC; Express fares are sleeper/3AC/2AC.

East Wing (%2784227, 2857630; h10am-6pm) is owned by the Braganza-Pereiras, descendants of the other half of the family. It’s nowhere near as grand: paint peels from windows, ceilings sag and antiques are mixed in with cheap knick-knacks and seaside souvenirs. But it’s beautiful in its own, lived-in way (check out the kerosene fridge) and has a small but striking family chapel, which contains a carefully hidden fingernail of St Francis Xavier (see p808). Both homes are open daily, and there’s almost always someone around to let you in. The owners rely on donations for the hefty costs of maintenance: if you choose to donate, ₹100 per visitor per house is reasonable, though anything extra is welcomed. Down the road, the original building of the Fernandes House (%2784245; ranferns@ yahoo.co.in; admission ₹200; h9am-6pm), about 1km east of the church, dates back more than 500 years, while the Portuguese section was tacked on by the Fernandes family in 1821. The secret basement hideaway, full of gun holes and with an escape tunnel to the river, was used by the family to flee attackers.

The best way to get here is by cab from Margao: taxis charge ₹350 round trip, including waiting time.

Colva & Benaulim POP 10,200

Colva and Benaulim, with their broad, open beaches, are not the first place backpackers head – most tourists here are of the domestic or ageing European varieties – but are, as a result, slightly less sceney than Palolem or the beach towns up north. Of the two, Benaulim has the greater charm, though out of high season it sometimes has the sad feel of a deserted seaside town. Perhaps the biggest reason to stay at either is to explore this part of the southern coast (which stretches north as far as Velsao and south as far as the mouth of the Sal River at Mobor), which in many parts is empty and gorgeous. The inland road that runs this length is perfect for gentle cycling and scootering, with lots of picturesque Portuguese-era mansions and whitewashed churches along the way.

1 Sights & Activities oGoa Chitra

MUSEUM

(%6570877; www.goachitra.com; St John the Baptist Rd, Mondo Vaddo, Benaulim; admission ₹200; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun) Artist and restorer Vic-

The beach entrances of Colva and Benaulim throng with dudes keen to sell you parasailing (per ride ₹600), jet-skiing (per 15min ₹700), and one-hour dolphin-watching trips (per person ₹300).

4 Sleeping COLVA Sam’s Cottages HOTEL $ (%2788753; r ₹500) Up away from the fray,

north of Colva’s main drag, you’ll find Sam’s, a cheerful place with superfriendly owners,

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Skylark Resort HOTEL $$ (%2788052; www.skylarkresortgoa.com; r without /with AC from ₹2300/3000; as) Clean and

fresh rooms here have pretty, locally made teak furniture and block-print bedspreads, which gives them much more ambience than the hotel’s generic exterior. The pool outside is also pleasant, and you can always just lounge here if you can’t deal with the three-minute walk to the beach.

Casa Mesquita GUESTHOUSE $ (%2788173; r ₹300) With just three rooms

that go beyond simple and a phone number that may or may not work, this old mansion on the main coast road is the place to go if you like atmosphere. Goodness knows when rooms were last cleaned, but the elderly inhabitants are friendly, the paint’s suitably peeling, and the ghosts of better days linger lovingly in the shadows. Soul Vacation HOTEL $$$ (%2788144/47; www.soulvacation.in; r incl breakfast ₹6300-7000; aWs) Tasteful rooms are ar-

ranged around gardens and a gorgeous pool area at the sleek Soul Vacation, 400m from Colva Beach. New luxury rooms are capacious and sophisticated in cool blues and whites – totally worth the extra money. It’s a relaxing (if slightly pretentious) place to unwind. La Ben HOTEL (%2788040; www.laben.net; Colva Beach Rd; r without/with AC ₹1100/1400; a) Neat, clean

and not entirely devoid of atmosphere,

THE FOUNDING FATHER OF QUEPEM When Father José Paulo de Almeida looked out his oyster-shell doors and windows, he saw the Church of the Holy Cross beyond the palm trees out front, the river that functioned as his road into and out of the forest out back, and below, lush gardens elaborately designed with cruciform patterns. The Portuguese priest and nobleman arrived in Goa in 1779 and set up the town of Quepem not long after. Today the Palácio do Deão (%2664029, 9823175639; www.palaciododeao.com; h10am-5pm Sat-Thu) may look a lot like it did when he lived there, with original woodwork, furniture, religious eﬀects and even the garden design all lovingly restored in the past few years by Goan couple Ruben and Celia Vasco da Gama, who researched the mansion’s original features in the dean’s hometown in Portugal. The Vasco da Gamas also host lunches and teatime on the back verandah; call for reservations and prices. All donations to the Palácio are used to continue restoration work and eventually create a cultural centre here. Stop by the Church of the Holy Cross, the small and sweet church across the way, while you’re here. A taxi from Margao, 14km away, will cost ₹550 round trip, including waiting time, but the bus (₹10, every few minutes) stops just a few minutes’ walk down the road.

SOUTH SI V&LI TI AC GOA S IOGGOA C LVA H T S&S&IBGAC EHNTTAU M I E ST I V I T I E S

tor Hugo Gomes first noticed the slow extinction of traditional objects – everything from farming tools to kitchen utensils to altarpieces – as a child in Benaulim. But it wasn’t until he was older that he realised the traditional, and especially agricultural, local knowledge was disappearing with them. He created this ethnographic museum from the more than 4000 cast-oﬀ objects that he collected from across the state over 20 years (he often had to find elderly people to explain their uses). In addition to the organic traditional farm out back, you’ll see tons of tools and household objects, Christian artefacts and some fascinating farming implements, including a massive grinder for making coconut oil, which, ingeniously, attaches to a bull who does all the hard work. Goa Chitra is 3km east of Maria Hall.

spacious, spick-and-span rooms – that were getting a major upgrade when we visited – and pretty and peaceful grounds.

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COLVA’S MENINO JESUS Colva’s 18th-century Our Lady of Mercy Church has been host to several miracles, it’s said. Inside, closely guarded under lock and key, lives a little statue known as the ‘Menino’ (Baby) Jesus, which is thought to miraculously heal the sick and which only sees the light of day during the Fama de Menino Jesus festival, on the second Monday in October. Then, the little image is paraded about town, dipped in the river, and installed in the church’s high altar for pilgrims to pray to. At other times of year, you can still visit the church in the early evening, and if you have any aﬄictions, you might choose to stop on your way in to buy a plastic ex-voto shaped like the body part in question (similar to those used in Mexican or Eastern Orthodox churches) for oﬀering to the Baby Jesus.

this place is particularly known for its rooftop restaurant. GOA S O U T H G OA

BENAULIM

There are lots of homes around town advertising simple rooms to let. This, combined with a couple of decent budget options, make Benaulim a better bet for backpackers than Colva. Palm Grove Cottages HOTEL $$ (%2770059/411; www.palmgrovegoa.com; d without/with AC incl tax from ₹1600/2000; a) Old-

fashioned, secluded charm is to be had amid the dense foliage at Palm Grove Cottages, hidden among a thicket of trees on a road winding slowly south out of Benaulim. Guest rooms are atmospheric (some have balconies), and the ever-popular Palm Garden Restaurant graces the garden. New rooms (₹2700) – more grand than cosy – were being constructed at the time of research.

D’Souza Guest House GUESTHOUSE $ (%2770583; d ₹600) This traditional blue

house is run by a superfriendly local Goan family and comes with bundles of homey atmosphere, a lovely garden and just three spacious, clean rooms – making it best to book ahead. There’s an imposter D’Souza Guest House (%2771307; Vasvaddo Beach Rd; d ₹500) that’s not as homey but also a good op-

tion; rooms are compact but airy and clean.

Blue Corner BEACH HUTS $$ (%9850455770; www.blue-cnr-goa.com; huts ₹1600)

The friendly (but overpriced) Blue Corner has simple beach huts (which sometimes lose electricity or running water) on a cosy spot right on the beach. The restaurant (mains ₹80 to ₹150) gets good reviews from guests.

Rosario’s Inn GUESTHOUSE $ (%2770636; r without/with AC ₹350/600; a)

Across a football field flitting with young players and dragonflies, Rosario’s is a large

establishment with very clean, simple rooms. Sheets are bright and tucked in tight, kids are playing in the garden, and good vibes abound. Taj Exotica HOTEL $$$ (%6683333; www.tajhotels.com; r from ₹20,500; ais) Set in 56 acres of stunning tropi-

cal gardens, the Exotica is luxurious but not the freshest Taj we’ve ever seen.

5 Eating & Drinking COLVA

Colva’s beach has plenty of shacks oﬀering the standard fare. At the roundabout near the church, you’ll find chai shops and thali places, fruit, vegetable and fish stalls, and, at night, bhelpuri vendors. Sagar Kinara INDIAN $ (Colva Beach Rd; thalis ₹65-85, mains ₹70-120) A

pure-veg restaurant with tastes to please even committed carnivores, this great place is super-eﬃcient and serves up cheap and delicious North and South Indian cuisine. You might have to wait for a table among throngs of Indian families who love it as much as we do. Leda Lounge CONTINENTAL, BAR $$ & Restaurant (mains ₹125-200; h7.30am-midnight) Somewhat

pricey Western favourites – pizzas, salads, sandwiches – meet fancy drinks – Mojitos, Long Island iced teas – at this comfy, cosmopolitan cafe-lounge. It’s a hip environment (relative to Colva), replete with contemporary -print sofas lit by artful woven-basket chandeliers. There’s often live music too.

BENAULIM Malibu Restaurant INDIAN, ITALIAN $$ (mains ₹80-180) With a secluded garden set-

ting full of flowers, cool breezes and butterflies, the relatively inland Malibu is one of

Benaulim’s tastier and more sophisticated dining experiences, with great renditions of Italian favourites and live jazz and blues on Tuesday evenings.

ride to the beach. Benaulim gets green points for ubiquitous bicycle rentals for ₹50 per day; scooters will cost you ₹200.

Pedro’s Bar & GOAN, MULTICUISINE $$ Restaurant (Vasvaddo Beach Rd; mains ₹70-220; h9am-midnight) In a large, shady garden set back from

Benaulim to Palolem

the beachfront and popular with local and international tourists alike, Pedro’s oﬀers standard Indian, Chinese and Italian dishes, as well as a good line in Goan choices and some super ‘sizzlers’.

es standard beach-shack favourites from its location just oﬀ the sands. Staﬀ are obliging, and food, if not exciting, is fresh and filling.

8 Information

Colva has plenty of banks and ATM machines strung along the east–west Colva Beach Rd, and a post oﬃce on the lane that runs past the eastern end of the church. Benaulim has a single ‘24hour’ Bank of Baroda ATM, which is sometimes locked, and most of its useful services (pharmacies, supermarkets, travel agents) are clustered around Benaulim village, which runs along the east–west Vasvaddo Beach Rd. Internet joints: Click Nooks (Vasvaddo Beach Rd; per hr ₹30; h9am-10pm) Sify Cyber Café (Colva Beach Rd; per hr ₹30; h9am-11pm)

8 Getting There & Around

COLVA Buses run from Colva to Margao every

few minutes (₹10, 20 minutes) until around 7pm. BENAULIM Buses from Benaulim to Margao are also frequent (₹7, 15 minutes); they stop at the intersection by Maria Hall. Some from Margao continue south to Varca and Cavelossim. Rickshaws and pilots charge ₹150 to ₹200 for Margao, and ₹50 to ₹60 for the five-minute

PUPPY LOVE Pick up some gifts, donate clothes and other stuﬀ you don’t want, and borrow books from the lending library at Colva’s Goa Animal Welfare Trust Shop (h9.30am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat), next to Skylark Resort. You can also learn more about the work of GAWT (%2653677; www.gawt.org; Old Police Station, Curchorem; h9am-4pm), which operates a shelter in Curchorem (near Margao) and a smaller shelter (%9665636264) behind the Chaudi bus stand near Palolem, both serving sick, stray and injured animals. Volunteers are welcome at the shelters, even for a few hours, to walk or play with the dogs.

SOUTH GOA GOA 8 EN B AU L8I M TO PA LO L E M

Johncy Restaurant GOAN, MULTICUISINE $$ (Vasvaddo Beach Rd; mains ₹75-195; h9.30am1am) Like Pedro’s beside it, Johncy dispens-

Immediately south of Benaulim are the beach resorts of Varca and Cavelossim, with wide, pristine sands and a line of roomy five-star hotels set amid landscaped grounds fronting the beach. The most luxe is the (somewhat snooty) Leela Goa (%6621234; www.theleela.com; r from ₹25,000; aiWs) at Mobor, 3km south of Cavelossim. Just beyond it, at the end of the peninsula, you’ll find one of the most picturesque spots in Goa, with simple beach shacks serving good food. The Cafe Beach Hut (mains ₹70-200) is at another pretty beach-shack spot; the turnoff is halfway between Cavelossim town and Mobor, opposite Old Anchor Dalmia Resort. If you’re here with your own transport, you can cross the Sal River at Cavelossim on the rusting tin-tub ferry, which will run until the nearby bridge is completed in late 2012-ish. Ferries run approximately every 30 minutes between 6.15am and 8.30pm; they’re free for pedestrians and ₹7 for cars, or you can charter the whole damn thing anytime for ₹55. To reach it, turn at the ‘Village Panchayat Cavelossim’ sign close to Cavelossim’s whitewashed church, then continue 2km to the river. On the other side is the very charming fishing village of Betul. From Betul on south to Agonda, the road winds over gorgeous, undulating hills thick with palm groves. It’s worth stopping off at the bleak old Portuguese fort of Cabo da Rama (look for the green, red and white signposts leading the way), which has a small church within the fort walls, stupendous views and several old buildings rapidly becoming one with the trees. (You can also reach the fort by bus from Chaudi, near Palolem; it stops 5km from the fort.) Back on the main road there’s a turnoff to Agonda, a small village with a wide,

831

Palolem & Around Palolem’s stunning crescent beach was, as recently as 15 years ago, another of Goa’s undiscovered gems, with few tourists and even fewer facilities to oﬀer them. Nowadays, it’s no longer quiet or hidden, but remains one of Goa’s most beautiful spots, with a friendly, laid-back pace and lots of budget accommodation along the sands. Nightlife’s still sleepy here – there are no real clubs, and the place goes to bed when the music stops at 10pm. But if you’re looking for a nice place to lay up, rest a while, swim in calm seas and choose from an infinite range of yoga, massages and therapies on oﬀer, this is your place. If even Palolem’s version of action is too much for you, head south, along the small

rocky cove named Colomb Bay, which hosts several basic places to stay, to Patnem Beach, where a fine selection of beach huts, and a less pretty – but infinitely quieter – stretch of sand awaits. Note that Palolem, even more so than other beach towns, operates seasonally; many places aren’t up and running until November.

Yoga

Activities

Palolem and Patnem are the places to be if you’re keen to yoga, belly dance, reiki, t’ai chi or tarot the days away. There are courses and classes on oﬀer all over town, with locations and teachers changing seasonally. Bhakti Kutir (p833) oﬀers daily drop-in yoga classes, as well as longer residential courses, but it’s just a single yogic drop in the area’s ever-changing alternative-therapy ocean. You’ll find info on local yoga, and even cooking, classes at Butterfly Book Shop (p834). Beach Activities Kayaks are available for rent on both Pat-

nem and Palolem beaches; an hour’s paddling will cost ₹200 to ₹300, including dry bag. Fishermen and other boat operators hanging around the beach oﬀer rides to beautiful Butterfly Beach, north of Palolem, for ₹800 to ₹1000 for two people, including one hour’s waiting time. Trekking Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary NATURE RESERVE (%2965601; admission/camera ₹5/25; h7am5.30pm) About 9km south of Palolem is

this beautiful, remote-feeling sanctuary.

6 4444 4444 444 6 4444 444 e #

Palolem

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Palolem

200 m 0.1 miles

Activities, Courses & Tours Bhakti Kutir ................................... (see 1)

To Dreamcatcher (300m);

›# # þ 9 Ordo Sounsar (400m) #6 ú # 5ú To Chaudi (2km); #ð ÿ Canacona Train Station (3km); #

Agonda (8km); Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary (9km) 8ú #

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#2 ÿ

# ú

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GOA S O U T H G OA

empty beach on which rare olive ridley turtles sometimes lay their eggs. The water here can be unsafe for swimming at times, which has kept Agonda from getting too popular, but it’s also not the idyllic secret of south Goa that it once was. Nevertheless, the pace is still slow and mellow. There’s plenty of accommodation to choose from, including 10 million beach huts. For a step up, Chattai (%9822481360; www.chattai.co.in; huts ₹1600), at the north end of the beach, has lovely huts with attached bathrooms and front porches. There’s lots of yoga and ayurveda in Agonda – look out for notices – and plenty of beach restaurants serving up the usual grub. Pav bhaji and chai can be had at the cluster of tiny eateries beside the church. The excellent organic restaurant Blue Planet, formerly of Palolem, was moving to Agonda at research time.

‚

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ÿ Sleeping 1 Bhakti Kutir ..........................................B2 2 Ciaran's ................................................ A1 3 My Soulmate........................................ A1 4 Palolem Guest House..........................B2 ú Eating 5 Café Inn ................................................ A1 6 Casa Fiesta........................................... A1 7 German Bakery....................................B2 8 Shiv Sai................................................. A1 þ Shopping 9 Butterfly Book Shop............................ A1

Don’t expect to bump into its more exotic residents (including gaurs, sambars, leopards and spotted deer), but blazingly plumed birds, frogs, snakes and monkeys are plentiful. Trails are marked; set oﬀ early morning for the best sighting prospects from one of the sanctuary’s two forest watchtowers, 6km and 9km from the entrance. A rickshaw/taxi from Palolem to the sanctuary will charge ₹500/600 including a couple of hours’ waiting time, and two buses (at 1pm and 6.15pm) also go here from Chaudi, making the park’s two cottages (₹400 and ₹750) a convenient option.

by a couple of very professional, very gregarious French guys, this adventure outfit gets rave reviews from travellers for its trekking and canyoning trips. (Canyoning, as owner Emmanuel puts it, is ‘part jumping, part abseiling and part sliding’ down a cliﬀ.) Trips run from a half-day to several days, and rafting trips are also occasionally oﬀered. Shoes can be rented for ₹150 per day.

4 Sleeping PALOLEM

Most of Palolem’s accommodation is of the simple beach-hut variety. Since the huts are dismantled and rebuilt with each passing season, standards can vary greatly from one year to the next. Walk along the beach and check out a few before making your decision; a simple hut without attached bathroom will cost around ₹600. Palolem Guest House HOTEL $$ (%2644879; www.palolemguesthouse.com; r ₹7502300; a) Towels here have ‘Palolem Guest

House’ embroidered on them: that’s the kind of old-school hotel this is (though reception could use some friendliness training). Comfortable rooms are arranged around a leafy garden just a quick walk from the beach, and the food in the courtyard restaurant is excellent.

Bhakti Kutir HOTEL $$$ (%2643472; www.bhaktikutir.com; cottages ₹25004000; i) Ensconced in a thick wooded grove

between Palolem and Patnem Beaches, Bhakti’s well-equipped rustic cottages are a little on the pricey side, but still make for a unique jungle retreat. There are daily drop-in yoga classes (₹200) and ayurvedic

833

Ordo Sounsar BEACH HUTS $$ (%9822488769; www.ordosounsar.com; huts ₹2000-2500, without bathroom ₹1500) Beach

huts they might be, but set as far north up Palolem beach as it’s possible to go, across a rickety bridge spanning a wide creek, this hidden haven makes a cool, quiet alternative to some of the elbow-to-elbow options further on down the sands. Friendly owner Serafin prides himself on the restaurant’s Goan dishes.

Ciaran’s BEACH HUTS $$$ (%2643477; www.ciarans.com; huts incl breakfast ₹4000; aW) You can barely call the gor-

geous lodgings here ‘huts’. With actual windows, stone floors, full-length mirrors, wood detailing and nicer bathrooms than you’ll find in most hotels, they’re more like small chalets, all arranged around peaceful gardens right at the beach. It’s the perfect balance of rustic and sophisticated. Plus, the wi-fi’s free. Dreamcatcher BEACH HUTS $$ (%2644873; www.dreamcatcher.in; huts from ₹2000, without bathroom ₹1000) Stylish huts

are peppered around a lush garden on the beach, and yoga’s offered every day. There’s a four-day minimum stay (but you’d probably stay that long anyway).

My Soulmate HOTEL $ (Shirley’s Residency; %9823785250; mysoulmate@ gmail.com; r ₹700-800, with AC ₹1000; a)

A good spot close to the beach (behind Rainbow Travels), and the best hotel name ever.

PATNEM

Long-stayers will revel in Patnem’s choice of village homes and apartments available for rent. A very basic house can cost ₹10,000 per month, while a fully equipped apartment can run up to ₹40,000. Papaya’s BEACH HUTS $$ (%9923079447; www.papayasgoa.com; huts ₹2000-3500; W) Lovely huts head back

into the palm grove from Papaya’s popular restaurant. Each is lovingly tended to, with lots of wood and floating muslin, as well as a porch, and the staﬀ are incredibly keen to please.

SOUTH GOA SGL& E EAPRI N GOA S L ELO PA E PL IENM OG UND

Goa Jungle Adventure OUTDOOR ADVENTURE (%9850485641, 9922173517; www.goajungle.com; trekking/canyoning trips from ₹1200/1500) Run

massages, and the outdoor restaurant (mains ₹120 to ₹240), beneath billowing parachute silks, turns out yummy, imaginative, healthful stuﬀ.

834

Micky Huts & Rooms BEACH HUTS $ (%9850484884; huts/r ₹400/600) If you don’t

blanche at basic, this is the best bargain on the whole of Patnem beach, run by the friendliest and most obliging local family you could imagine. There’s no signpost: just head for the huge patch of bamboo beside the small stream towards the northern end of the beach, and enquire at the restaurant. Sea View Resort HOTEL $$ (%2643110, 9850477147; www.seaviewpatnem .com; r ₹1000-2500, with AC ₹2800-3500; ai)

GOA S O U T H G OA

The friendly management here, clean rooms – many with balconies, some with kitchens – and neighbourhoody garden setting just a quick walk from Patnem beach makes Sea View a reliable, comfy option.

Shiv Sai MULTICUISINE (thalis ₹40-50, mains ₹40-100) A local lunch

joint knocking out tasty thalis, including Goan fish and veggie versions, and a good line in Western breakfasts like banana pancakes (₹40).

Shopping

Butterfly Book Shop BOOKSTORE (%9341738801; h9am-9.30pm Mon-Sat) A

great bookshop with some neat gifts and a range of books on yoga, meditation and spirituality.

8 Information

5 Eating Both Palolem and Patnem’s beaches are lined with beach shacks, oﬀering all-day dining and fresh, fresh seafood as the catch comes in and the sun goes down. Many of these change seasonally, but as of press time, Ma-Rita’s was winning the readers’ choice award.

oCafé Inn

Home also rents out nicely decorated, light rooms (₹1000 to ₹2500); call to book or ask at the restaurant.

CAFE $$

(light meals ₹70-240) This huge, fun semi-

outdoor place has loud music, servers in saris and a cafeteria vibe (in a good way). The snacks, shakes, burgers and salads are great, but it’s the evening barbecue (from 6pm to 10pm) that will really blow you away: pick your base, toppings, sauces and bread to create a grilled mix-and-match masterpiece.

German Bakery BAKERY, MULTICUISINE $$ (pastries ₹25-80, mains ₹95-170) Tasty baked

treats and excellent coﬀee are the star at the Nepali-run German Bakery, but the Western breakfasts and Italian and Indian dinners are also super good. It also occasionally has yak cheese from Nepal – how cool is that? Oh, and the whole thing is set in a peaceful garden festooned with flags. Casa Fiesta MEXICAN, MULTICUISINE $$ (mains ₹70-200) Fiesta, like all the restaurants

around here, has a little bit of everything on the menu. Its speciality, though, is Mexican, and it makes a valiant attempt at it (and does surprisingly well). The mellow hut ambience is also working, as are the evening barbecues. Home CONTINENTAL (%2643916; www.homeispatnem.com; mains from ₹100) A hip, relaxed veg restaurant,

Palolem’s main road is lined with travel agencies, internet places, and money changers – but no ATMs. For those, head to nearby Chaudi, which also has a supermarket, several pharmacies and all the other amenities you might need. An autorickshaw from Palolem to Chaudi costs ₹50, or you can walk the flat 2km in a leisurely 45 minutes. Sun-n-Moon Travels (per hr ₹40; h8ammidnight) Quick internet.

8 Getting There & Around

BUS Services to Margao (₹27, one hour, every 30 minutes) and Chaudi (₹5, every 15 minutes), the nearest town, depart from the bus stand down by the beach and stop at the Patnem turn-oﬀ. Chaudi has good bus connections, but for Panaji, better to go to Margao and catch an express from there. Buses from Chaudi: Agonda ₹9, half-hourly Cabo da Rama ₹18, 9am (return buses depart Cabo da Rama at 3pm) Gokarna ₹70, 2pm Karwar ₹30, half-hourly Mangalore ₹200, two daily Margao ₹24, every 10 minutes Mysore ₹310, one daily Panaji ₹50, 6.20pm and 7.15pm TAXI & AUTORICKSHAW An autorickshaw from Palolem to Patnem costs ₹50, as does a rick from Palolem to Chaudi. A prepaid taxi from Dabolim Airport to Palolem costs ₹1000, but going the other way, you might get it for ₹800. TRAIN Many trains that run north or south out of Margao (see p827 ) stop at the Canacona Train Station (%2643644, 2712790).

Karnataka & Bengaluru Bengaluru (Bangalore) . . . . . . . . .837 Mysore . . . . . . . . . . . . 852 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . 864 Kodagu (Coorg) Region . . . . . . . . . . . . 866 Mangalore . . . . . . . . . 869 Udupi (Udipi) . . . . . . .873 Gokarna . . . . . . . . . . . .874 Hampi . . . . . . . . . . . . .876 Hospet . . . . . . . . . . . . 882 Bijapur . . . . . . . . . . . . 886 Bidar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 889

Best Places to Eat » Karavalli (p846)

» Koshy’s Bar & Restaurant (p847) » Mango Tree (p880)

» Malgudi Café (p857)

Why Go? Rounding oﬀ the southern extent of the Deccan Plateau, sprawling Karnataka is an inexhaustible goldmine of natural, cultural and artistic variety. Complemented by an ultraprofessional tourism industry and an inherently friendly population, it’s a travellers’ haven that makes for fun, stressfree and thoroughly enjoyable gallivanting all the way. At the nerve centre of this mind-boggling state is siliconcapital Bengaluru (Bangalore), overfed with the good life. Scattered around the epicurean city are rolling hills rife with spice and coﬀee plantations, a historic town adorned in brocaded regal splendour, a paradisaical nature reserve and a group of awesome rock-cut temples dating back to medieval times. Only a stone’s throw away is the Karnataka coastline, with shimmering beaches and colourful temple towns. Bringing your pleasure trip full circle are the World Heritage–listed monuments of Hampi and Pattadakal, and the forgotten battlements and ruins of Bijapur and Bidar. You’re unlikely to return home disappointed.

When to Go Bengaluru °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm 32/800

40/104

24/600

20/68

» Namaste Café (p876)

16/400 0/32

Best Places to Stay » Kabini River Lodge (p865) » Taj West End (p843)

» Parklane Hotel (p856)

» Green Hills Estate (p868) » SwaSwara (p875)

8/200 0

-20/-4 J

Jan The best season to watch tigers and elephants in Karnataka’s pristine national parks.

Oct Mysore’s Dasara (Dussehra) carnival brings night-long celebrations and a jumbo parade.

Dec The coolest time to explore the northern districts’ forts, palaces, caves and temples.

ON THE ROCKS

Savoury South

Magnificent bluﬀs and rounded boulders stand tall all over Karnataka. Anegundi (p881) and Hampi (p876) have graded boulders for some easy climbing. Challenging rock faces can be found in Badami (p884), Ramnagar, 40km south of Bengaluru, Savandurga, 50km west of the capital, and Turahalli, on Bengaluru’s southern outskirts.

The diverse and delectable cuisine of Karnataka is perhaps reason enough for you to visit this state. The highest-flying of all local delicacies is the spicy pandhi (pork) masala, a flavourful Kodava signature dish. Mangalore, out on the coast, tosses up a train of fiery dishes – mostly seafood. The crunchy prawn rawa (semolina) fry and the sinful chicken ghee roast are two of Mangalore’s many dishes to have gathered a pan-Indian following. Vegetarians, meanwhile, can head to Udupi to sample its legendary veg thalis. Oh, and did we mention the classic steak-and-beer joints of Bengaluru?

DON’T MISS The temples of Hampi, Pattadakal, Belur and Halebid, and Somnathpur are some of India’s best archaeological sites, embellished with sculptures of stellar quality.

Fast Facts » Population: 61.1 million

Top State Festivals

» Capital: Bengaluru (Bangalore)

» Udupi Paryaya (Jan, Udupi, p873) Held in even-numbered years, with a procession and ritual marking the handover of swamis at the town’s Krishna Temple.

» Area: 191,791 sq km

» Main languages: Kannada, Hindi, English

» Sleeping prices: $ below ₹1000, $$ ₹1000 to ₹4000, $$$ above ₹4000

Jungle Jaunt

» Classical Dance Festival (Jan/Feb, Pattadakal, p886) Some of India’s best classical dance performances.

» Vijaya Utsav (Jan, Hampi, p876) A three-day extravaganza of culture, heritage and the arts at the foot of Hampi’s Matanga Hill.

» Tibetan New Year (Feb, Bylakuppe, p869) Lamas in Tibetan refugee settlements take shifts leading nonstop prayers that span the weeklong celebrations.

Jungle Lodges & Resorts Ltd (Map p844; %080-25597944; www.jungle lodges.com; Shrungar Shopping Complex, MG Rd, Bengaluru; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat), is a top-class government-run organisation promoting lowimpact and sustainable ecotourism in the state’s many wildlife parks and reserves. Book your getaways in their Bengaluru oﬃce or online.

» Vairamudi Festival (Mar/Apr, Melkote, p861) Lord Vishnu is adorned with jewels at Cheluvanarayana Temple, including a diamond-studded crown belonging to Mysore’s former maharajas.

Resources

» Huthri (Nov/Dec, Madikeri, p866) The Kodava community celebrates the start of the harvesting season with ceremony, music, traditional dances and much feasting for a week.

» Karnataka Tourism (KSTDC) (www.karnataka tourism.org) » Bengaluru city guide (www.discoverbangalore. com)

» Ganesh Chaturthi (Sep, Gokarna, p874) Families march their Ganesh idols to the sea at sunset. » Dussehra (Oct, Mysore, see the boxed text, p853) Also spelt ‘Dasara’ in Mysore. The Maharaja’s Palace is lit up in the evenings and a vibrant procession hits town to the delight of thousands.

» Lakshadeepotsava (Nov, Dharmasthala, p872) Thousands and thousands of lamps light up this Jain pilgrimage town, offering spectacular photo ops.

History

8 Information

The website of Karnataka Tourism (KSTDC; www.karnatakatourism.org) has lots of relevant information. Several government oﬃces in Karnataka remain closed on alternate Saturdays. ACCOMMODATION In Karnataka, luxury tax is 4% on rooms costing ₹151 to ₹400, 8% on those between ₹401 and ₹1000, and 12% on anything over ₹1000. Some midrange and top-end hotels may add a further service charge.

8 Getting There & Away

The main gateway to Karnataka is Bengaluru, serviced by most domestic airlines and some international carriers.

Coastal Mangalore is a transit point for those going north to Goa, or south to Kerala. Hubli, in central Karnataka, is a major railway junction for routes going into Maharashtra and northern India.

837

8 Getting Around

The Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation (KSRTC) has a superb bus network across the state. Taxis with drivers are easily available in major towns. For long trips, most taxis charge around ₹7 per kilometre for a minimum of 250km, plus a daily allowance of ₹150 for the driver.

SOUTHERN KARNATAKA Bengaluru (Bangalore) % 080 / POP 5.7 MILLION / ELEV 920M

Despite its grim consequences in real life, getting ‘Bangalored’ has always had sunnier implications for travellers. The hub of India’s booming IT industry, cosmopolitan Bengaluru is the numero uno city in the Indian deep south, blessed with a benevolent climate, a handful of interesting sights and a progressive dining, drinking and shopping scene. Located within close range of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, it’s also a great base for those venturing out across southern India. In recent times, Bengaluru has seen a mad surge of development, coupled with traﬃc congestion and rising pollution levels. However, it’s a city that has also taken care to preserve its greens and its colonial heritage. So while urbanisation continually pushes its boundaries outward, the central district (dating back to the Raj years) remains more or less unchanged. Of interest to travellers are Gandhi Nagar (the old quarters); Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd, the heart of British-era Bangalore; and the Central Business District (CBD), north of MG Rd, across the greens. Locally known as Majestic, Gandhi Nagar is a crowded area where Bengaluru’s central bus stand and the City train station are located. A few historical relics lie to its south, including Lalbagh Botanical Gardens and Tipu Sultan’s palace. About 4km east are the high streets bounded by Mahatma Gandhi (MG), Brigade, St Mark’s and Residency (FM Cariappa) Rds. This is Bengaluru’s cosmopolitan hub, with parks, tree-lined streets, churches, grand houses and military establishments. In between are sandwiched the golf club, the racecourse and the cricket stadium.

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU B E N G A L U R U ( B A N G A LO R E )

A rambling playfield of religions, cultures and kingdoms, Karnataka has been ruled by a string of charismatic rulers through history. India’s first great emperor, Chandragupta Maurya, made the state his retreat when he embraced Jainism at Sravanabelagola in the 3rd century BC. From the 6th to the 14th century, the land was under a series of dynasties such as the Chalukyas, Cholas, Gangas and Hoysalas, who left a lasting mark in the form of stunning caves and temples across the state. In 1327, Mohammed Tughlaq’s army sacked Halebid. In 1347, Hasan Gangu, a Persian general in Tughlaq’s army led a rebellion to establish the Bahmani kingdom, which was later subdivided into five Deccan sultanates. Meanwhile, the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagar, with its capital in Hampi, rose to prominence. Having peaked in the early 1550s, it fell in 1565 to a combined eﬀort of the sultanates. In subsequent years, the Hindu Wodeyars of Mysore grew in stature and extended their rule over a large part of southern India. They remained largely unchallenged until 1761, when Hyder Ali (one of their generals) deposed them. Backed by the French, Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan set up capital in Srirangapatnam and consolidated their rule. However, in 1799, the British defeated Tipu Sultan and reinstated the Wodeyars. Historically, this flagged oﬀ British territorial expansion in southern India. Mysore remained under the Wodeyars until Independence – post-1947, the reigning maharaja became the first governor. The state boundaries were redrawn along linguistic lines in 1956 and the extended Kannadaspeaking state of Mysore was born. It was renamed Karnataka in 1972, with Bangalore (now Bengaluru) as the capital.

5 Marvel at the gravity-defying boulders, and wander among the melancholic ruins of Hampi (p876)

deserted ramparts of the 15th century fort in Bidar (p889)

4 Stride across the

3 Drink yourself under the table, or stab into top-notch global cuisine in Bengaluru (p837)

coﬀee while recharging your soul in the cool highlands of the Kodagu Region (p866)

2 Savour aromatic

1 Be bowled over by the awesome royal palace and the technicolour Devaraja Market in Mysore (p852)

Kolhapur

Gokak Falls

Miraj

Yargatti

MAHARASHTRA

Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary

Dandeli

Haliyal

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Belgaum

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Dharwad

Bagalkot

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Gulbarga

Homnabad

Basavakalyam

Anegundi

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Basavana Bagevadi

Pattadakal

Sholapur

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Karnataka Highlights

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A Ri

Guntakal

Raichur

Bidar

ANDHRA PRADESH

Hyderabad

Secunderabad

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7 Spy on lazy tuskers and listen to exotic birds in the forests bordering the serene Kabini Lake (p865)

ARABIAN SEA

Kasaragod

Ullal

Mangalore

Mudabidri

St Mary's Island Udupi

Malpe

Venur

Karkal

Gajanur

Kannur

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Nagarhole National Park

Tadiyendamol (1745m)

Bylakuppe

Kushalnagar

Sira

Bandipur National Park

Kabini Lake

Mysore

Tumkur

Gundlupet

Bannerghatta Biological Park

Cauvery

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Bengaluru (Bangalore)

Biligiri Rangaswamy Wildlife Sanctuary

Chamrajanagar

Talakad

Somnathpur

Whitefield

Nandi Hills

Sivasamudram

Ramnagar

Mandya

Melkote

Savandurga

Hessaraghatta

Sravanabelagola

Srirangapatnam Hunsur

Brindavan Gardens

Channarayapatna

KERALA

Karapura

Kakkabe

Kotebetta

Madikeri

Pushpagiri (1712m)

Hassan

Dubare Forest Reserve

Dharmasthala

Belur

Halebid

Chikmagalur

Birur Kadur

Tarikere

Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary

Chitradurga

Arsikere

Davangere

Bhadravati

Shimoga

Harihar

Ranibennur

Mullayangiri (1918m)

Muttodi

Tirthahalli

Sringeri

Amgol Agumbe

Linganamakki Reservoir

Sagar

Shettihali Sanctuary

Gudavi Bird Sanctuary

Talguppa

Sharavati Sanctuary

Gersoppa

Jog Falls Kargal

Haveri

ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Sirsi

Siddapur

Kundapura

Murudeshwar

Manki

Kumta Honavar

Gokarna

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU B E N G A L U R U ( B A N G A LO R E )

6 Soak up the electric ambience of the atmospheric Krishna Temple in Udupi (p873)

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TAMIL NADU

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Finding your way around Bengaluru can be diﬃcult at times. In certain areas, roads are named after their widths (eg 80ft Rd). The city also follows a system of mains and crosses: 3rd cross, 5th main, Residency Rd, for example, refers to the third lane on the fifth street branching oﬀ Residency Rd. History

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

Literally meaning ‘Town of Boiled Beans’, Bengaluru supposedly derived its name from an ancient incident involving an old village woman who served cooked pulses to a lost and hungry Hoysala king. Kempegowda, a feudal lord, was the first person to earmark Bengaluru’s extents by building a mud fort in 1537. The town remained obscure until 1759, when it was gifted to Hyder Ali by the Mysore maharaja. The British arrived in 1809 and made it their regional administrative base in 1831, renaming it Bangalore. During the Raj era, the city played host to many a British oﬃcer, including Winston Churchill, who enjoyed life here during his greener years and famously left a debt (still on the books) of ₹13 at the Bangalore Club. Now home to countless software, electronics and business outsourcing firms, Bengaluru’s knack for technology developed early. In 1905 it was the first Indian city to

have electric street lighting. Since the 1940s, it has been home to Hindustan Aeronautics Ltd (HAL), India’s largest aerospace company. And if you can’t do without email, you owe it all to a Bangalorean – Sabeer Bhatia, the inventor of Hotmail, grew up here. The city’s name was changed back to Bengaluru in November 2006, though few care to use it in practice.

1 Sights

Cubbon Park GARDEN (Map p840) In the heart of Bengaluru’s busi-

ness district is Cubbon Park, a sprawling 120-hectare garden named after former British commissioner Sir Mark Cubbon. Under its leafy boughs, groups of Bengaluru’s residents converge to steal a moment from the rat race that rages outside. Idlers, thinkers, lovers, dreamers and health freaks, you’ll find them all here, immersed in their own indulgences. On the fringes of Cubbon Park are the red-painted Gothic-style State Central Library and two municipal museums. For the gadget-oriented traveller, there’s the Visvesvaraya Industrial and Technical Museum (Map p840; Kasturba Rd; admission ₹15; h10am6pm Mon-Sat), which showcases a wide range

of electrical and engineering displays, from a replica of the Wright brothers’ 1903 flyer to

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21st-century virtual-reality games. The Gov-

ernment Museum (Kasturba Rd; admission ₹4; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) to the south houses a

collection of stone carvings and relics. The attached Venkatappa Art Gallery (admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) preserves several works and personal memorabilia of K Venkatappa (1887–1962), court painter to the Wodeyars. At the northwestern end of Cubbon Park are the colossal neo-Dravidian-style Vidhana Soudha, built in 1954, and the neoclassical Attara Kacheri, that houses the High Court. Both are closed to the public. Bengaluru Palace PALACE (oﬀ Map p842; Palace Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹100/200, camera/video ₹500/1000; h10am6pm) The private residence of the Wodeyars,

Lalbagh Botanical Gardens GARDEN (oﬀ Map p842; admission ₹10; h5.30am-7.30pm)

Spread over 96 acres of landscaped terrain, the expansive Lalbagh gardens were laid out in 1760 by Hyder Ali. You can take a guided tour in a ten-seater ecofriendly buggy (per head ₹100), and learn about the centuriesold trees and collections of plants from around the world. A beautiful glasshouse, modelled on the original Crystal Palace in London, is the venue for flower shows in the weeks preceding Republic Day (26 January) and Independence Day (15 August). Walk in early on Sundays and you can hear the police band perform at the Police Bandstand.

Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath ART GALLERY (Map p842; www.karnatakachitrakalaparishath. com; Kumarakrupa Rd; admission ₹10; h10.30am5.30pm Mon-Sat) This visual arts gallery is

Bengaluru’s premier art institution. A wide range of Indian and international contemporary art is on show in its galleries (open

Bengaluru: MG Rd & Cubbon Park æ Sights 1 Attara Kacheri (High Court) ................. A2 2 Cubbon Park .......................................... A2 3 Government Museum ........................... B2 4 State Central Library............................. A2 Venkatappa Art Gallery.................. (see 3) 5 Vidhana Soudha .....................................A1 6 Visvesvaraya Industrial and Technical Museum ............................. B2 ÿ Sleeping 7 Ashley Inn............................................... D2 8 Casa Piccola Cottage ............................ B3 9 Casa Piccola Service Apartments........ C3 10 Hotel Ajantha ......................................... D2 11 Tom's...................................................... C3 ú Eating 12 Caperberry............................................. D2 13 Harima.................................................... B3 14 Olive Beach ............................................ C3 15 Sunny's................................................... B2 û ü Drinking 16 Infinitea....................................................B1 17 Plan B ..................................................... C3

841

Shiro .............................................. (see 23) ý Entertainment INOX ...............................................(see 21) 18 M Chinnaswamy Stadium ..................... B1 þ Shopping 19 Fabindia .................................................. C1 20 Ffolio........................................................B3 21 Garuda Mall ............................................C3 22 Mysore Saree Udyog ............................. C1 23 UB City ....................................................B2 Information 24 Hosmat ...................................................D3 25 Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation..................B2 26 Mallya Hospital.......................................B3 Skyway.......................................... (see 25) STIC Travels ................................. (see 27) 27 TT Forex.................................................. B1 Transport 28 Kingfisher Airlines .................................. B1 KSRTC Booking Counter..............(see 13)

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A S I GB HIETGN SHGTASL U R U ( B A N G A LO R E ) K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU S

erstwhile maharajas of the state, Bengaluru Palace preserves a slice of bygone royal splendour for you to see. Aged retainers show you around the building, designed to resemble Windsor Castle, and you can marvel at the lavish interiors and galleries featuring hunting trophies, family photos and a collection of nude portraits. Ask before you get clicking. The palace grounds, inter-

estingly, are now Bengaluru’s hottest concert arena, having hosted rock ‘n’ roll biggies such as Iron Maiden, the Rolling Stones, Aerosmith and Deep Purple.

Bull Temple & Dodda Ganesha HINDU TEMPLES Temple (Bull Temple Rd, Basavangudi; h7am-8.30pm)

Built by Kempegowda in the 16th-century Dravidian style, the Bull Temple contains a huge granite monolith of Nandi and is one of Bengaluru’s most atmospheric temples. Nearby is the Dodda Ganesha Temple (Bull Temple Rd, Basavangudi; h7am-8.30pm), with an equally enormous Ganesh idol. The temples are about a kilometre south of Tipu Sultan’s Palace, down Krishnarajendra Rd. Iskcon Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Hare Krishna Hill, Chord Rd; h7am-1pm & 4-8.30pm) Built by the International Society

of Krishna Consciousness (Iskcon), also referred to as the Hare Krishnas, this shiny temple, 8km northwest of the town centre, is lavishly decorated in a mix of ultracontemporary and traditional styles. The Sri Radha Krishna Mandir has a stunning shrine to Krishna and Radha. The temple is a 20-minute autorickshaw ride from MG Rd, near Yeshvantpur train station.

HAL Aerospace Museum & Heritage MUSEUM Centre (Airport-Varthur Rd; admission ₹20, camera/video ₹25/45; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) For a peek into

India’s aeronautical history, visit this wonderful museum past the old airport, where you can see some of the indigenous aircraft

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400 m 0.2 miles

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

the vibrant Krishnarajendra (City) Market stands the elegant palace of Tipu Sultan, notable for its teak pillars and ornamental frescoes. Though not as beautiful (or wellmaintained) as Tipu’s summer palace in Srirangapatnam, it’s an interesting monument, and worth an outing when combined with other nearby sights such as the Krishnarajendra (City) Market (Map p842), the massive Jama Masjid (Map p842; Silver Jubilee (SJ) Park Rd; admission free), the remains of Kempegowda’s fort (Map p842) and the ornate

‚

Tipu Sultan’s Palace PALACE (Map p842; Albert Victor Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹5/100, video ₹25; h8.30am-5.30pm) Close to

66 66 6 6 66 66 666 66 6 Bengaluru: Chickpet & Gandhi Nagar e # 00 B e Sampig Rd

10.30am to 7pm), while permanent displays showcase lavish gold-leaf works of Mysorestyle paintings and folk and tribal art from across Asia. A section is devoted to the works of Russian master Nicholas Roerich, known for his vivid paintings of the Himalayas, and his son Svetoslav.

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models designed by HAL. Interesting exhibits include the infamous MIG-21, homegrown models such as the Marut and Kiran, and a vintage Canberra bomber. You can also engage in mock dogfights at the simulator machines (₹10) on the top floor.

Activities

Ayurveda & Yoga The staﬀ at Chiraayu Ayurvedic Health & Rejuvenation Centre (%25500855; 6th block, 17th D Main, Koramangala; h8.30am-6pm) take

their practice seriously, so don’t make vague demands like ‘I’d like a massage!’ Make an appointment, discuss your problems, and the resultant therapy – prescribed by inhouse experts – could range from a day-long session to long-term programs. Allergy, diabetes, asthma and other critical diseases can be treated. Based in the eastern suburb of Whitefield, Ayurvedagram (%27945430; www. ayurvedagram.com; Hemmandanhalli) is a reputed ayurvedic treatment centre that customises packages for individual disorders. For a more lavish experience, try Soukya (%28017000; www.soukya.com; Soukya Rd, Samethanahalli, Whitefield; h6am-8.30pm), an

internationally renowned place set on a picture-perfect 30-acre organic farm that of-

843

Bengaluru: Chickpet & Gandhi Nagar æ Sights 1 Fort ......................................................... B3 2 Jama Masjid ........................................... B3 3 Karnataka Chitrakala Parishath ............B1 4 Krishnarajendra (City) Market ............. B3 5 Tipu Sultan's Palace .............................. A3 6 Venkataraman Temple ......................... A3

ý Entertainment 12 Bangalore Turf Club............................... B1

ÿ Sleeping 7 Hotel Adora ............................................ A2 8 JP Cordial ............................................... A2 9 Taj West End ...........................................B1 10 Tricolour Hotel....................................... A2

Transport 15 Central Bus Stand..................................A2 16 City Bus Stand........................................A2 17 City Market Bus Stand...........................B3 18 Divisional Railway Office........................ A1 Indian Airlines................................(see 19) 19 Jet Airways .............................................B3 20 Train Reservation Office........................A2

ú Eating 11 Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) .................. B3

www.urbanyoga.in; 100ft Rd, Indiranagar; h6.30am-9pm) has a smart yoga studio oﬀer-

ing a range of classes, and sells yoga clothes, accessories and books. Outdoor Adventure Getoff ur ass (%26722750; www.getoﬀurass. com; 858 1D Main Rd, Giri Nagar 2nd Phase) has per-

fect recipes for outward-bound adventures, including rafting, kayaking, trekking and mountaineering in Karnataka and elsewhere. It also sells and rents outdoor gear.

T Tours

Bangalore Walks WALKING (%9845523660, 9845068416; www.bangalorewalks. com) A must-do. Choose between a tradition-

al walk, medieval walk, garden walk or Victorian walk to get under Bengaluru’s skin. Held on Saturdays and Sundays (7am to 10am), the walks (adult/child ₹500/300) are all about knowing and loving Bengaluru in a way that many locals have forgotten. There’s a scrummy breakfast en route. Book in advance; each walk takes a maximum of 15 people. Bus Tours

SIGHTSEEING

The state tourism department runs a couple of city bus tours, all of which begin at Badami House. The basic city tour runs twice daily at 7.30am and 2pm (ordinary/deluxe ₹170/190), while a 16-hour tour to Srirangapatnam, Mysore and Brindavan Gardens

departs daily at 6.30am (ordinary/deluxe ₹530/680). There are longer tours to other destinations; enquire at the Karnataka Tourism oﬃces.

4 Sleeping Hotel tariﬀs are skyrocketing in Bengaluru even as you read this. Decent rooms are perpetually in short supply, and a good night’s sleep will set you back by at least ₹1000. Serviced apartments are frequently a better deal than many midrange and top-end hotels. Most hotels have 24-hour checkout. Book early. Stacks of hotels line Subedar Chatram (SC) Rd, east of the bus stands and train station. It’s a loud and seedy area, but convenient if you’re in transit. For longer stays, consider moving into town, preferably closer to MG Rd. All hotels listed here have hot water, at least in the mornings.

oTaj West End

HERITAGE HOTEL $$$

(Map p842; %66605660; www.tajhotels.com; Racecourse Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹11,600/12,800; aWs)

The West End saga flashbacks to 1887, when it was incepted by a British family as a 10-room hostel for passing army oﬃcers. Since then, nostalgia has been a permanent resident at this lovely property which – spread over 20 acres of tropical gardens – has evolved as a definitive icon of Indian luxury hospitality. Its pearly mansions and villas seamlessly mix heritage with modern comforts, with verandahs overlooking the verdant greens that come alive with the chirping of exotic birds every day. Get antiquated in style.

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A TO UB RESN K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU TO UG RS A L U R U ( B A N G A LO R E )

fers some of the best programs in ayurvedic therapy and yoga (per hour therapy Indian/ foreigner ₹2750/US$55). Long-term packages are also available. Stylish Urban Yoga Centre (%32005720;

Information 13 Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation..................B3 14 Karnataka Tourism ................................ B1

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oCasa Piccola

HERITAGE HOTEL $$ Cottage (Map p840; %22270754; www.casapiccola.com; 2 Clapham Rd; r incl breakfast from ₹3600; aW)

Located on a quiet back lane in Richmond Town, this beautifully renovated 1915 cottage is a tranquil sanctuary from the city madness. With an uncanny ability to make you feel immediately at home, it oﬀers a personalised brand of hospitality that has garnered it a solid reputation. Its studio rooms are high on oldworld charm, and the gazebo in the garden is a nice place to tuck into your free breakfast.

Ashley Inn GUESTHOUSE $$ (Map p840; %41233415; www.ashleyinn.in; 11 Ashley Park Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1800/2200; aW)

Once in a while, we all come across a hotel that gets it right without trying too hard. Ashley Inn is one such place. Seconds from the MG Rd mayhem, with eight pleasant rooms in soothing colours, this sweet guesthouse evokes that homely feeling you sometimes desperately yearn for while on the move.

Tom’s HOTEL $$ (Map p840; %25575875; 1/5 Hosur Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1199/1399; aW) Long favoured for its

unbelievably low tariﬀs, cheerful Tom’s allows you to stay in the heart of town for a song. Yes, there’s been some cost-cutting since we last visited, but rooms are spacious, the linen spotless, and the staﬀ professional. Ask for a north-facing room; they come with balconies.

Villa Pottipati HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%23360777; www.neemranahotels.com; 142 8th Cross, 4th Main, Malleswaram; s/d incl breakfast from ₹4000/4500; ais) Located a little oﬀ-centre,

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this heritage building was once the garden home of an expat Andhra family. Needless to say, it’s flooded with memories in the form of numerous artefacts scattered within its rooms. Dollops of quaintness are added by features such as antique four-poster beds and arched doorways, while the overall ambience gains from a garden full of ageless trees, seasonal blossoms and a dunk-sized pool. Hotel Ajantha HOTEL $ (Map p840; %25584321; www.hotelajantha.in; 22A MG Rd; s/d from ₹475/750, d with AC from ₹999; a) Old Indian tourism posters and stacks of

potted foliage welcome you into this oldie located oﬀ MG Rd, with a range of par-for-thecourse rooms in a semi-quiet compound. Being dirt cheap, it’s insanely popular with budget travellers, so book well ahead. Tricolour Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p842; %41279090; www.ibchotels-resorts. com; 15 Tank Bund Rd; s/d ₹1300/1600; ai) This

pseudo-boutique hotel should be your first option if you want to sleep in relative comfort while being close to the bus and train stations. It’s both classy and contemporary, with primly laid-out rooms and cheerful, sky-lit foyers. Col Sanders sells his legendary fried chicken at the glitzy mall next door.

JP Cordial HOTEL $$ (p842; %40214021; www.jpcordial.com; 68 SC Rd; d incl breakfast Indian/foreigner from ₹3600/US$95; ai) A rather pleasant business hotel strad-

dling the maddening commotion on SC Rd, this designer place meets requisite luxury standards, and the amiable staﬀ is always ready to meet your requirements. It’s one of the better mid-rangers in this part of town.

845

MG Rd Area ÿ Sleeping 1 Brindavan Hotel..................................... D2 2 Hotel Empire International ....................A1 3 Monarch ................................................. C2 ú Eating 4 Ebony.......................................................B1 5 Karavalli.................................................. C2 6 Oye! Amritsar..........................................C1 7 Queen's Restaurant................................B1 8 The Only Place ....................................... B2 û ü Drinking 13th Floor ........................................ (see 4) 9 Barista .....................................................A1 10 Café Coffee Day..................................... C2

serviced apartments, this place oﬀers a set of well-appointed two- and three-bedroom flats located within a residential complex on a shared basis. Tastefully done up in pastel shades, they’re stocked with all amenities. It’s owned by the Oberoi family, who run the Casa Piccola Cottage across the lane.

Ista Hotel HOTEL $$$ (oﬀ Map p840; %25558888; www.istahotels.com; 1/1 Swami Vivekananda Rd, Ulsoor; d from ₹8099; ais) With its name meaning ‘sacred

space’, Ista delivers accommodation happiness in a cool, minimalist style. The smallish but elegant rooms with king-sized windows oﬀer sweeping vistas across Ulsoor lake. The bar and restaurant, opening on to the rooftop pool, are swell, and the spa will pamper you with diverse treatments kicking oﬀ at around ₹1300. Hotel Empire International HOTEL $$ (Map p844; %25593743; www.hotelempire.in; 36 Church St; s/d incl breakfast from ₹1550/1850; ai) Consistency is the Empire’s middle

name. The bright and airy rooms are as clean and well-serviced, the front desk as professional and courteous, and the overall vibe as cheerful as on our previous visits. Combined with its location in the heart of all the action and nightlife, it’s a sure deal. Monarch HOTEL $$ (Map p844; %25591915; www.monarchhotels.in; 54 Brigade Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹25000/3500;

12 Matteo..................................................... C1

þ Shopping 13 Blossom .................................................. B1 14 Bombay Store ........................................ B1 15 Cauvery Arts & Crafts Emporium ............................................ C1 16 Magazines............................................... C1 Information 17 Government of India Tourist Office .................................................... B1 18 Jungle Lodges & Resorts Ltd ................ C1 Monarch.......................................... (see 3)

aW)

Between you and us, a night at the Monarch should be costing twice as much. Don’t tell them, though. Just lie back in one of their super-comfy rooms and make the most of their innumerable facilities (free wifi, 24-hour currency exchange counter, courier service and a dozen others). Then follow it up with a rocking evening on the town.

Brindavan Hotel HOTEL $ (Map p844; %25584000; 108 MG Rd; s/d from ₹750/900; a) Being located conveniently

oﬀ central Bengaluru’s main drag, this budget dive is perennially booked out, and you need to call well in advance if you want to check into one of its plain and characterless (though tidy and airy) rooms. There’s an in-house astro-palmist, if you’re interested. Hotel Adora HOTEL (Map p842; %22200024; 47 SC Rd; s/d from ₹425/650) A largish and popular budget

option near the stations, with unfussy rooms with clean sheets. Downstairs is a good veg restaurant, Indraprastha. Walk-in reservations only. The Park HOTEL $$$ (off Map p840; %25594666; 14/7 MG Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹15,000/16,000) A swanky

designer hotel with oodles of glitz and glam. Home to the reputed Italian restaurant, i-t.ALIA.

5 Eating Bengaluru’s adventurous dining scene keeps pace with the whims and rising standards of its hungry, moneyed masses. Unless stated otherwise, all restaurants are open from noon

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A E ATB K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU EI N AT EG NIGNAGL U R U ( B A N G A LO R E )

Casa Piccola Service Apartments HOTEL $$ (Map p840; %22270754; www.casapiccola.com; Wellington Park Apartments, Wellington St; r from ₹2400; a) One of Bengaluru’s many sleek

11 Koshy's Bar & Restaurant ..................... A1

846

to 3pm, and 7pm to 11pm. It’s best to book a table in some (telephone numbers listed). If and when the state government passes a much-discussed anti cow-slaughter bill, beef may go oﬀ the menus in many midrange restaurants.

OTHER AREAS

oMavalli Tiffin Rooms

MG ROAD AREA

oKaravalli

best places in Bengaluru’s central district where you can tuck into authentic South Indian veg fare, such as dosas, vadas and multicourse thalis.

SEAFOOD $$$

(Map p844; %66604545; The Gateway Hotel; 66 Residency Rd; mains ₹450-500) The Arabian

SOUTH INDIAN $

(MTR; Map p842; Lalbagh Rd; mains ₹40-60; h6.30-11am, 12.30-2.45pm, 3.30-7.30pm & 8-9.30pm) A legendary name in South Indi-

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

Sea is some 500km away, but you’ll have to come only as far as this superb spot to savour South India’s finest coastal cuisines. It’s designed like a seaside villa, and the decor is a stylish mash of thatched roofs and vintage woodwork. The juicy Lobster Balchao is an eternal favourite, as are the fiery Mangalorean fishy delights. And there’s the divine Bebinca with vanilla ice-cream for dessert.

an comfort food, this super-popular eatery, commonly called MTR, has had Bengaluru eating out of its hands since 1924. Head up to the dining room upstairs, queue for a table, and then admire the dated images of southern beauties etched on smoky glass as waiters bring you savoury local fare, capped by frothing filter coﬀee served in silverware. It’s a definitive Bengaluru experience; don’t leave town without trying it.

Oye! Amritsar NORTH INDIAN $$ (Map p844; 4th fl, Asha Enclave, Church St; mains ₹150-180) Pining for some good old Punjabi

Caperberry CONTINENTAL $$ (Map p840; %25594567; 121 Dickenson Rd; mains ₹240-270) A smart blend of European mono-

fare in South India? This is where you’ll find it all. A dhaba-style eatery with funky souped-up decor, this restaurant serves some lip-smacking dishes from the northern state, best washed down with a glass of yoghurt-based lassi.

chromes and glittering South Indian goldwork create a sophisticated ambience at this fancy restaurant specialising in Spanish food. Paella, or pear and asparagus salad? Take your pick from the extensive menu, and match it with a sangria on the side.

The Only Place STEAKHOUSE $$ (Map p844; 13 Museum Rd; mains ₹200-220) Juicy

Windsor Pub MULTICUISINE $$ (7 Kodava Samaja Bldg, 1st Main Vasanthnagar; mains ₹220-280) The awesome fillet steak

steaks, brawny burgers and the classic shepherd’s pie – no one serves them better than this time-tested restaurant which has many an expat loyalist in town. It’s a place that doesn’t encourage much conversation, simply because you’ve got your mouth full most of the time. Queen’s Restaurant INDIAN $ (Map p844; Church St; mains ₹80-100) This re-

puted joint serves some quick and tasty Indian morsels such as a range of vegetable and dhal preparations, to go with fluﬀy and hot chapati. The interiors are rustic, with painted motifs adorning earthy walls. Ebony MULTICUISINE $$ (Map p844; (%41783344; 13th fl, Barton Centre, 84 MG Rd; mains ₹150-180) Serves the best

Parsi food in town, along with some delectable Thai, French and Indian dishes. The interiors are classy, and the rooftop location heavenly. Palm Grove SOUTH INDIAN (Ballal Residency, 74/3 3rd Cross, Residency Rd; mains ₹80-100; h7am-10.30pm) One of the

belted out by this relaxed eatery near Bangalore Palace qualifies as the ultimate deathrow meal for many a Bengaluru foodie. And that’s not forgetting the flavoursome Mangalorean fish fries, or the tangy pandhi (pork) masala from Kodagu’s hills. Beer flows freely from the taps as you gleefully stuﬀ your face.

Harima JAPANESE $$ (oﬀ Map p840; %41325757; 4th fl, Devatha Plaza, Residency Rd; mains ₹250-280) Tempura, sashi-

mi, sushi and that refreshing sip of sake. Flavourful Japanese staples form the core of this restaurant’s repertoire, noted for its minimalist interiors. It’s one of Bengaluru’s most underrated places, but you’ll certainly spread the word once you’ve been there.

Olive Beach MEDITERRANEAN $$$ (Map p840; %41128400; 16 Wood St, Ashoknagar; mains ₹350-400) Lodged within an elegant

villa in upscale Ashoknagar is this fantastic fine-dining restaurant, with food that evokes wistful memories of sunny Tuscany (or

whatever your fave Mediterranean getaway might be). Spinach and goat cheese pizza, anyone? Or crumbled sausage and cauliflower risotto, maybe? The roasted pumpkin and sage ravioli sure has a few admirers, too. Sunny’s ITALIAN $$ (Map p840; %41329366; 34 Vittal Mallya Rd; mains ₹280-300) Cheese and olive oil conspire to

work up some mouth-watering Mediterranean flavours at this popular restaurant specialising in Italian food. Its wide range of pastas, pizzas, salads and desserts are a hit with Bengaluru’s expat community. Barbeque Nation MUGHLAI $$ (100Ft Rd, Indiranagar; meals ₹450) Good news

Gramin INDIAN $$ (%41104104; 20, 7th Block Raheja Arcade, Koramangala; mains ₹140-160) A wide choice of fla-

vourful and breezy North Indian fare is on oﬀer at this extremely popular all-veg place. Try the excellent range of lentils, best had with oven-fresh rotis, or the veg kebabs.

Drinking

BARS & LOUNGES

Despite Bengaluru’s rock-steady reputation as a place to get sloshed in style, local laws require pubs and discos to shut shop at 11.30pm (opening time is usually 7.30pm). However, given the wide choice of chic watering holes around, you can indulge in a spirited session of pub-hopping in this original beer town of India. The trendiest nightclubs will typically charge you a cover of around ₹1000 per couple, but it’s often redeemable against drinks or food.

oKoshy’s Bar & Restaurant

BAR

(Map p844; 39 St Mark’s Rd; h9am-11.30pm)

They say half of Bengaluru’s court cases are argued around Koshy’s teetering tables, and many hard-hitting newspaper articles written over its steaming coﬀees. Having quenched the collective thirst of the city’s intelligentsia for decades, this buzzy and joyful pub is where you can put away pints of beer and classic British meals (mains ₹170 to ₹200) in-between fervent discussions.

847

your beer. There are sober kids in India’, says a poster adorning this chilled-out pub’s robust interiors. And to aid you in this eminently enjoyable task, there’s a whole line of awesome bites from peanut masala to porky platters, and some ageless music (remember ‘My Sharona’?). The place brims over with motorsports buﬀs on F1 racedays.

Shiro BAR (Map p840; UB City) A sophisticated lounge to

get sloshed in style, Shiro has elegant interiors complemented by arty Buddha busts and Apsara figurines. Its commendable selection of cocktails and drinks draw rave reviews from patrons, who often fight oﬀ their Saturday night hangovers by converging again for Sunday brunch. B Flat BAR (100ft Rd, Indiranagar) A pub and jazz bar

that often features live performances by some of India’s best bands, this place is on the radar of every jazz and blues junkie in town. There’s a ₹200 entry fee, oﬀset against moody guitar solos. 13th Floor BAR (Map p844; 13th fl, Barton Centre, 84 MG Rd) Come

early to grab a spot on the terrace sit-out, with all of Bengaluru glittering at your feet. The atmosphere is that of a relaxed cocktail party, and you can tap your feet to a good selection of retro music.

Beach BAR (100ft Rd, Indiranagar) Couldn’t make it to Goa?

Then come to this slick beach-bum’s lounge, and feel the sand between your toes (literally), as you dance away to some groovy music. Women drink free on Wednesdays, and there’s the occasional quiz night for you to flaunt your GK. CAFES & TEAHOUSES

Bengaluru is liberally sprinkled with good chain cafes. Those such as Café Coffee Day (Map p844; Brigade Rd; h8am-11.30pm) and Barista (Map p840; 40 St Mark’s Rd; h8am-11.30pm)

have several outlets across town. For something diﬀerent, try one of the following.

oMatteo

CAFE

(Map p844; Church St; h9am-11pm) The hip-

pest and newest cafe in Bengaluru serves first-rate brews (try the aromatic green tea), along with tasty side-orders such as shrimp and penne pasta or a filling chicken

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A D R IB NERKN K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU D I NGKGAI LNUGR U ( B A N G A LO R E )

for kebab lovers. This stylish place has an endless supply of the grilled meaty delights for you to gorge on. Meals feature unlimited portions of a set menu which changes on a daily basis. And the meat is skewered live at your table to suit your tastes! Eat till you’re beat.

Plan B PUB (Map p840; 20 Castle St, Ashoknagar) ‘Finish

848

baguette. The coolest rendezvous in the city centre. Infinitea CAFE (Map p840; 2 Shah Sultan Complex, Cunningham Rd; h9am-11pm) The service here can be patchy

at times, but the steaming cuppa that follows more than makes up for it. Its menu features orthodox teas from the best estates, alongside a few fancy names such as chocolate tea milkshake.

3 Entertainment CINEMA

English-language films are popular, and tickets range from ₹150 to ₹300, depending on your theatre of choice and the show time. INOX CINEMA (%41128888; www.inoxmovies.com; 5th fl, Garuda Mall, Magrath Rd) Screens new releases from

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

Bollywood and the West.

PVR Cinema CINEMA (%22067511; www.pvrcinemas.com; Forum, 21 Hosur Rd) A megacinema with 11 screens

showing Indian and international titles.

Nani Cinematheque CINEMA (%22356262; 5th fl, Sona Tower, 71 Millers Rd)

Classic Indian and European films are screened here Friday, Saturday and Sunday. SPORT

Bengaluru’s horse-racing seasons are from November to February and May to July. Contact the Bangalore Turf Club (Map p842; www.bangaloreraces.com; Racecourse Rd) for details. For a taste of India’s sporting passion up close, attend one of the regular cricket matches at M Chinnaswamy Stadium (Map p840; MG Rd). Details can be found at www. cricketkarnataka.com. THEATRE Ranga Shankara THEATRE (%26592777; www.rangashankara.org; 36/2 8th Cross, JP Nagar) All kinds of interesting the-

atre (in a variety of languages and spanning various genres) and dance are held at this cultural centre.

Shopping

Bengaluru’s shopping options are abundant, ranging from teeming bazaars to glitzy malls. Some good shopping areas include Commercial St (Map p840), Vittal Mallya Rd (Map p840) and the MG Rd area.

UB City CLOTHING (Map p840; Vittal Mallya Rd; h11am-9pm) Global

haute couture and Indian high fashion come to roost at this towering mall in the central district.

Cauvery Arts & Crafts Emporium SOUVENIRS (Map p844; 49 MG Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)

Showcases a great collection of sandalwood and rosewood products as well as textiles.

Ffolio CLOTHING (Map p840; 5 Vittal Mallya Rd; h10.30am-8pm)

A good place for high Indian fashion, with another branch at Leela Galleria (23 Airport Rd, Kodihalli).

Fabindia CLOTHING (54 17th Main Koramangala; h10am-8pm) Commercial St (Map p840); Garuda mall (McGrath Rd) These branches contain Fabindia’s

full range of stylish clothes and homewares in traditional cotton prints and silks.

Magazines BOOKSTORE (Map p844; 55 Church St) An astounding col-

lection of international magazines. Up to 70% discount on back issues.

Blossom BOOKSTORE (Map p844; 84/6 Church St) Great deals on

new and second-hand books.

Bombay Store SOUVENIRS (Map p844; 99 MG Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm) For

gifts ranging from ecobeauty products to linens.

Mysore Saree Udyog CLOTHING (Map p840; 1st fl, 294 Kamaraj Rd; h10.30am8.30pm Mon-Sat) A great choice for top-

quality silks and saris.

Some good malls in town include Garuda Mall (Map p840; McGrath Rd), Forum (Hosur Rd; Koramangala) and Leela Galleria (23 Airport Rd, Kodihalli).

8 Information

Internet Access Being an IT city, internet cafes are plentiful in Bengaluru, as is wi-fi access in hotels. Café Coﬀee Day (Map p840; Brigade Rd; h8am-11.30pm) has a smoking deal comprising an hour’s internet usage, cappuccino and cookies. Left Luggage The City train station (Map p842) and Central bus stand (Map p842) have 24-hour cloakrooms (per day ₹10).

Maps The tourist oﬃces give out decent city maps. The excellent Eicher City Map (₹200) is sold at major bookshops. Media 080 and What’s Up Bangalore are great monthly magazines covering the latest in Bengaluru’s social life. Kingfisher Explocity Nights (₹200) gives a low-down on the best night spots. All titles are available in major bookstores. Medical Services Most hotels here have doctors on call. Hosmat (Map p 840; %25593796; www.hosmat net.com; 45 Magrath Rd) For critical injuries and other general illnesses. Mallya Hospital (Map p840; %22277979; www .mallyahospital.net; 2 Vittal Mallya Rd) With a 24-hour pharmacy and emergency services.

Photography Digital services are easy to come by. GK Vale (89 MG Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) One-stop photography shop. Post Main post office (Map p 840; Cubbon Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)

Travel Agencies Skyway (Map p 840; %22111401; www.sky waytour.com; 8 Papanna Lane, St Mark’s Rd; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) A thoroughly professional outfit with a satellite office in Mysore. Reliable for booking long-distance taxis and air tickets. STIC Travels (Map p 840; %22202408; www.stictravel.com; G5 Imperial Ct, 33/1 Cunningham Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) For ticketing, vehicles, hotels and holiday packages.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Airline oﬃces are generally open from 9am to 5.30pm Monday to Saturday. City oﬃces and 24-hour helplines of domestic carriers serving Bengaluru include the following: GoAir (% 9223222111; www.goair.in) Indian Airlines (Map p 842; %22277747; www.indian-airlines.nic.in; Unity Bldg, JC Rd)

DAILY FLIGHTS FROM BENGALURU DESTINATION

STARTING FARE ₹

DURATION (HR)

Ahmedabad

3200

Chennai (Madras)

2300

Delhi

3700

2½

Goa

2600

Hyderabad

2400

Kochi

2300

1½

Kolkata (Calcutta)

3500

Mangalore

2300

Mumbai (Bombay)

3000

Pune

2600

1½

Trivandrum

3300

1½

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SOUTHERN ARNATAK A 8 B K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU 8 E N G A L U R U ( B A N G A LO R E )

Money ATMs are common. Monarch (Map p 844; % 41123253; 54 Monarch Plaza, Brigade Rd; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat) Deals in foreign currency, travellers cheques and ticketing. TT Forex (Map p 840; %22254337; 33/1 Cunningham Rd; h9.30am-6.30pm MonFri, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat) Changes travellers cheques and foreign currency.

Tourist Information Government of India tourist office (Map p 844; %25585417; 48 Church St; h9.30am6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation (KSTDC); Badami House (Map p 842; % 43344334; Badami House, Kasturba Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat); Karnataka Tourism House (Map p 840; % 41329211; 8 Papanna Lane, St Mark’s Rd; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat). Bookings can be made for KSTDC city and state tours, as well as for luxury holidays such as the Golden Chariot. Karnataka Tourism (Map p 842; %22352828; 2nd fl, 49 Khanija Bhavan, Racecourse Rd; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

850

MAJOR BUS SERVICES FROM BENGALURU DESTINATION

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

FREQUENCY

Chennai

274 (R)/472 (V)

7-8

15 daily

Ernakulam

484 (R)/598 (V)

10-12

7 daily

Hampi

316 (R)

8½

1 daily

Hospet

306 (R)/381 (V)

6 daily

Hyderabad

432 (R)/736 (V)

10-12

10 daily

Jog Falls

321 (R)

1 daily

Mumbai

1059 (V)

4 daily

Mysore

136 (R)/247 (V)

Every 30min

Ooty

262 (R)/357 (V)

8 daily

Panaji

473 (R)/779 (V)

12-14

4 daily

Puttaparthi

71 (R)/185 (V)

3 daily

R – Rajahamsa Semideluxe, V – Airavath AC Volvo

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

IndiGo (% 9910383838; www.goindigo.in) Jet Airways (Map p 842; %39893333, 39899999; www.jetairways.com; Unity Bldg, JC Rd) Kingfisher Airlines (Map p 840; %18002333131, 41148190; www.flykingfisher .com; 35/2 Cunningham Rd) SpiceJet (%18001803333; www.spicejet.com) Bus Bengaluru’s huge, well-organised Central bus stand (Map p 842; Gubbi Thotadappa Rd), also known as Majestic, is directly in front of the City train station. Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation (KSRTC; www.ksrtc .in) buses run throughout Karnataka and to neighbouring states. Other interstate bus operators: Andhra Pradesh State Road Transport Corporation (APSRTC; www.apsrtc.gov.in) Kadamba Transport Corporation (%22351958, 22352922) Services for Goa. Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (MSRTC; www.msrtc.gov.in) Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation (SETC; www.tnstc.in) Computerised advance booking is available for most buses at the station. KSRTC (Map p840; Devatha Plaza, Residency Rd) also has convenient booking counters around town, including one at Devantha Plaza. It’s wise to book longdistance journeys in advance. Numerous private bus companies oﬀer comfier and only slightly more expensive services. Private bus operators line the street facing the Central bus stand, or you can book through a travel agency.

For major KSRTC bus services from Bengaluru, see the boxed text above. Train Bengaluru’s City train station (Map p842; Gubbi Thotadappa Rd) is the main train hub and the place to make reservations. Cantonment train station (Station Rd) is a sensible spot to disembark if you’re arriving and headed for the MG Rd area, while Yeshvantpur train station (Rahman Khan Rd), 8km northwest of downtown, is the starting point for Goa trains. If a train is booked out, foreign travellers can avail the foreign-tourist quota. Buy a wait-listed ticket, then fill out a form at the Divisional Railway Oﬃce (Map p842; Gubbi Thotadappa Rd) building immediately north of the City train station. You’ll know about 10 hours before departure whether you’ve got a seat (a good chance); if not, the ticket is refunded. The computerised train reservation oﬃce (Map p842; %139; h8am8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun), on the left facing the station, has separate counters for credit-card purchase, women and foreigners. Luggage can be left at the 24-hour cloakroom on Platform 1 at the City train station (₹10 per bag per day). See the boxed text p852 for information on major train services.

8 Getting Around

To/From the Airport The swish city airport (%66782251; www.bengal uruairport.com) is in Hebbal, about 40km north from the MG Rd area. Prepaid taxis can take you from the airport to the city centre (₹700). You can also take the hourly shuttle Vayu Vajra AC bus service to Majestic or MG Rd (₹180).

Autorickshaw The city’s autorickshaw drivers are legally required to use their meters; few comply in reality. After 10pm, 50% is added onto the metered rate. Flag fall is ₹17 for the first 2km and then ₹9 for each extra kilometre. Bus Bengaluru has a thorough local bus network, operated by the Bangalore Metropolitan Transport Corporation (BMTC; www.bmtcinfo. com). Red AC Vajra buses criss-cross the city, while green Big10 deluxe buses connect the suburbs. Ordinary buses run from the City bus stand (Map p842), next to Majestic; a few operate from the City Market bus stand (Map p842) further south. To get from the City train station to the MG Rd area, catch any bus from Platform 17 or 18 at the City bus stand. For the City market, take bus 31, 31E, 35 or 49 from Platform 8.

Around Bengaluru HESSARAGHATTA

Located 30km northwest of Bengaluru, Hessaraghatta is home to Nrityagram (%080-28466313; www.nrityagram.org; h10am2pm Tue-Sun), a leading dance academy es-

tablished in 1990 to revive and popularise Indian classical dance. The brainchild and living legacy of celebrated dancer Protima Gauri Bedi (1948– 98), the complex was designed like a village by Goa-based architect Gerard da Cunha. Long-term courses in classical dance are offered to deserving students here, while local children are taught for free on Sundays. Selfguided tours cost ₹20 or you can book a tour, lecture and demonstration and vegetarian meal (₹1250, minimum 10 people). Opposite the dance village, Taj Kuteeram (%080-28466326; www.tajhotels.com; d ₹4000;

MAJOR TRAINS FROM BENGALURU DESTINATION

TRAIN NO & NAME

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

DEPARTURES

Chennai

12658 Chennai Mail

193/655

10.45pm

12028 Shatabdi

510/1105

6am Wed-Mon

12627 Karnataka Exp

546/2070

7.20pm

12649 Sampark Kranti Exp

536/2020

10.10pm Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun

Hospet

16592 Hampi Exp

191/725

9½

9pm

Hubli

16589 Rani Chennamma Exp

203/745

9.15pm

Kolkata

12864 YPR Howrah Exp

508/1900

7.35pm

Mumbai

16530 Udyan Exp

363/1375

7.50pm

Mysore

12007 Shatabdi

305/590

11am Wed-Mon

12614 Tippu Exp

62/225

2½

3pm

Trivandrum

16526 Kanyakumari Exp

325/1217

9.40pm

Delhi

851

Shatabdi fares are chair/executive; Express (Exp/Mail) fares are 2nd/chair for day trains and sleeper/2AC for night trains.

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A 8 A K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU 8 ROUND BENGALURU

Taxi Several places around Bengaluru oﬀer taxi rental with driver. Standard rates for a longhaul Tata Indica cab are ₹7 per kilometre for a minimum of 250km, plus a daily allowance of ₹150 for the driver. For an eight-hour day rental, you’re looking at around ₹1200. Luxury Renault cabs are also available for ₹60 for 4km kilometre and ₹15 for every subsequent kilometre. Try Meru Cabs (%44224422) or Skyway (%22111401).

Metro Bengaluru’s shiny new AC metro service was all set for inauguration at the time of research. With trains plying every four minutes and tickets costing marginally more than intra-city buses, the service comes as a welcome alternative to the city’s congested public transport system. For the latest updates on the service, log on to www.bmrc.co.in.

852

ai) is a hotel that combines comfort with rustic charm. It also oﬀers ayurveda and yoga sessions.

Our Native Village (%080-41140909; www.ournativevillage.com; s/d incl full board ₹5000/6800; s), an ecofriendly organic farm

and resort situated in the vicinity, is a great place to unwind in style while engaging in fun activities such as flying kites, riding bullock carts or milking cows. From Bengaluru’s City Market, buses 253, 253D and 253E run to Hessaraghatta (₹25, one hour), with bus 266 continuing on to Nrityagram.

NANDI HILLS

Rising to 1455m, the Nandi Hills (admission ₹5; h6am-10pm), 60km north of Bengaluru, K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

were once the summer retreat of Tipu Sultan. Today, it’s the Bengaluru techie’s favourite weekend getaway, and is predictably congested on Saturdays and Sundays. Nonetheless, it’s a good place for hiking, with good views and two notable Chola temples. Buses head to Nandi Hills (₹50, two hours) from Bengaluru’s Central bus stand.

JANAPADA LOKA FOLK ARTS MUSEUM

Situated 53km south of Bengaluru, this museum (adult/child ₹10/5; h9am-5.30pm)

dedicated to the preservation of rural cultures has a wonderful collection of folk art objects, including 500-year-old shadow puppets, festival costumes and musical instruments. Mysore-bound buses (one hour) can drop you here; get oﬀ 3km after Ramnagar.

Mysore % 0821 / POP 799,200 / ELEV 707M

If you haven’t been to Mysore, you just haven’t seen South India. Conceited though it may sound, this is not an overstatement. An ancient city with more than 600 glorious years of legacy, Mysore is one of the most flamboyant places in India. Known for its glittering royal heritage, bustling markets, magnificent monuments, cosmopolitan culture and a friendly populace, it is also a thriving centre for the production of premium silk, sandalwood and incense. It also flaunts considerable expertise in yoga and ayurveda, two trades it markets worldwide. The train station is northwest of the city centre, about 1km from the main shopping street, Sayyaji Rao Rd. The Central bus stand

is on Bengaluru-Nilgiri (BN) Rd. The Maharaja’s Palace sits in the heart of the buzzing quarters southeast of the city centre. The lofty Chamundi Hill is an ever-visible landmark to the south. History

Mysore owes its name to the mythical Mahisuru, a place where the demon Mahisasura was slain by the goddess Chamundi. Its regal history began in 1399, when the Wodeyar dynasty of Mysore was founded, though they remained in service of the Vijayanagar empire until the mid-16th century. With the fall of Vijayanagar in 1565, the Wodeyars declared their sovereignty, which – save a brief period of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan’s supremacy in the late 18th century – remained unscathed until 1947.

1 Sights

Maharaja’s Palace PALACE (www.mysorepalace.tv; Indian/foreigner ₹20/200; h10am-5.30pm) Among the grandest of India’s

royal buildings, this fantastic palace was the former seat of the Wodeyar maharajas. The old palace was gutted by fire in 1897; the one you see now was completed in 1912 by English architect Henry Irwin at a cost of ₹4.5 million. The interior of this Indo-Saracenic marvel – a kaleidoscope of stained glass, mirrors and gaudy colours – is undoubtedly over the top. The decor is further embellished by carved wooden doors, mosaic floors and a series of paintings depicting life in Mysore during the Edwardian Raj. The way into the palace takes you past a fine collection of sculptures and artefacts. Don’t forget to check out the armoury, with an intriguing collection of 700-plus weapons. Every weekend, on national holidays, and through the Dasara celebrations, the palace is illuminated by nearly 100,000 light bulbs that accent its majestic profile against the night. While you are allowed to snap the palace’s exterior, photography within is strictly prohibited. Cameras must be deposited in lockers (₹5) at the palace entrance. Also available within the compound is a multilingual guided audio tour of the palace, the price of which is included in the foreigners’ ticket. Devaraja Market MARKET (Sayyaji Rao Rd; h6am-8.30pm) Dating from

Tipu Sultan’s reign, the spellbinding Devaraja Market is a lively bazaar that combines both the ancient and modern faces of India.

International brands compete for space here with local traders selling traditional items such as flower garlands, spices and conical piles of kumkum (coloured powder used for bindi dots), and their unique co-existence makes for some great photo-ops. Refresh your bargaining skills before shopping. Chamundi Hill

SACRED SITE

Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery ART GALLERY (Jaganmohan Palace Rd; adult/child ₹20/10; h8.30am-5pm) Built in 1861 as the royal auditorium, the Jaganmohan Palace, just west of

the Maharaja’s Palace, houses the Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery, with a collection of kitsch objects and regal memorabilia including rare musical instruments, Japanese art, and paintings by the noted artist Raja Ravi Varma.

FIndira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav

MUSEUM Sangrahalaya (National Museum of Mankind; www.igrms.com; Wellington Lodge, Irwin Rd; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun)

853

FJayalakshmi Vilas Complex

MUSEUM Museum (Mysore University Campus; h10am-5.30pm MonSat, closed alternate Sat) This museum, housed

in a grand mansion, specialises in folklore. A wooden puppet of the 10-headed demon Ravana, leather shadow puppets, rural costumes and a 300-year-old temple cart are part of its fantastic collection. Rail Museum MUSEUM (KRS Rd; adult/child ₹5/2, camera/video ₹10/25; h9.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sun) This one’s a real

gem, and certainly not to be missed. Located behind the train station, the open-air museum bears testimony to the stylish way in which the royals once rode the railways. The chief exhibit is the Mysore maharani’s saloon, a wood-panelled beauty dating from 1899. There are also five steam engines, each with its own story, and a large collection of instruments and memorabilia from the Indian Railways’ chequered past. It’s half a day of pure fun.

DUSSEHRA JAMBOREE Mysore is at its carnivalesque best during the 10-day Dussehra (locally spelt ‘Dasara’) festival in October. Every evening, the Maharaja’s Palace is dramatically lit up, while the town is transformed into a gigantic fairground, with concerts, dance performances, sporting demonstrations and cultural events running to packed houses. On the last day, the celebrations are capped off in grand style. A dazzling procession of richly costumed elephants, garlanded idols, liveried retainers and cavalry kicks off around 1pm, marching through the streets to the rhythms of clanging brass bands, all the way from the palace to the Bannimantap parade ground. A torchlight parade at Bannimantap and a spectacular session of fireworks then closes the festival for the year. Mysore is choc-a-bloc with tourists during the festival, especially on the final day. To bypass suffocating crowds, consider buying a Dasara VIP Gold Card (₹6000 for two). Though expensive, it assures you good seats at the final day gala and helps you beat the entry queues at other events and performances, while providing discounts on accommodation, dining and shopping. It’s also possible to buy tickets (₹250 to ₹1000) just for entering the palace and Bannimantap for the final day’s parades. Contact the local Karnataka Tourism office or the Dasara Information Centre (%2418888; www.mysore dasara.gov.in) for more details.

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A S I GM HITYGSHOTRSE K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU S

At a height of 1062m, on the summit of Chamundi Hill, stands the Sri Chamundeswari Temple (h7am-2pm & 3.30-9pm), dominated by a towering 40m-high gopuram (entrance gateway). It’s a fine half-day excursion, oﬀering spectacular views of the city below; you can take bus 201 (₹15, 30 minutes) that rumbles up the narrow road to the summit. A return autorickshaw trip will cost about ₹300. On your way down, you can also take the foot trail comprising 1000-plus steps that Hindu pilgrims use to visit the temple. Onethird of the way down is a 5m-high statue of Nandi (Shiva’s bull) that was carved out of solid rock in 1659.

This museum functions primarily as a cultural centre and exhibition space showcasing arts from rural India. Housing excellent rotating exhibitions and a souvenir shop, the centre organises two-week workshops in traditional art forms, which are open to the public. The interiors of the museum were under renovation at the time of research but should be completed by the time you read this. Don’t miss the fantastic permanent terracotta exhibition – comprising artefacts from across the country – on the front lawn.

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K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

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Mysore æ Top Sights Devaraja Market .................................... C2 Maharaja's Palace ................................. D4 æ Sights 1 Government House ................................ F1 2 Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya ....................................... E1 Jaganmohan Palace ....................... (see 3) 3 Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery ........... C3 4 Rail Museum ...........................................A1 5 Rangacharlu Memorial Hall .................. D3 6 Silver Jubilee Clock Tower.................... D2 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 7 Shruthi Musical Works...........................D1 8 Sri Patanjala Yogashala ........................ C3

Other Sights

LANDMARKS

For architecture buﬀs, Mysore has quite a handful of charming buildings. Dating from 1805, Government House (Irwin Rd), formerly the British Residency, is a Tuscan Doric building set in 20 hectares of gardens (h5am-9pm). Facing the north gate of the Maharaja’s Palace is the 1927 Silver Jubilee Clock Tower (Ashoka Rd); nearby stands the imposing Rangacharlu Memorial Hall, built in 1884. The beauty of towering St Philomena’s Cathedral (St Philomena St; h5am-6pm), built between 1933 and 1941 in neo-Gothic style, is emphasised by beautiful stained-glass windows. Mysore’s zoo (Indiranagar; adult/child ₹30/15, camera/video ₹10/150; h8.30am-5.30pm WedMon), set in pretty gardens on the eastern

edge of the city, dates from 1892. A range of primates, tigers, elephants, bears, birds and rhinos live here.

Activities

Royal Mysore Walks WALKING (9632044188; www.royalmysorewalks.com; per person ₹495) A walking tour is an excellent way

to familiarise yourself with Mysore’s epic history and heritage. Run by techie-turned-

ü Drinking 20 Café Coffee Day .....................................A2 þ Shopping 21 Cauvery Arts & Crafts Emporium ............................................ C1 22 Government Silk Factory Showroom ...........................................D3 23 Sapna Book House.................................B2 Shruthi Musical Works....................(see 7) Transport 24 Central Bus Stand.................................. E2 25 City Bus Stand........................................D3 26 Indian Airlines.........................................A2 27 Private Bus Stand .................................. C1 28 Railway Booking Office .......................... A1

historian Vinay, the outfit organises weekend walks with a specific focus on either the city’s royal history, its markets, its old quarters or its handicrafts. Oﬀbeat walks, such as a yoga and spirituality tour, can also be arranged at extra cost. Emerge Spa AYURVEDA (%2522500; www.emergespa.co.in; Windflower Spa & Resort, Maharanapratap Rd, Nazarbad) My-

sore’s spa operations are spearheaded by the slick, out-of-town Emerge Spa, where you can drop by for a pampering ayurvedic session (try the one-hour Abhayanga massage for ₹1600) or a range of Balinese massage, hydrotherapy and beauty treatments.

Swaasthya Ayurveda AYURVEDA Retreat Village (%6557557, 9448056406; www.swaasthya.com; 69 Bommaru Agrahara; s/d incl full board ₹2000/3000; i) For an exceptionally peace-

ful and refreshing ayurvedic vacation, head 12km towards Srirangapatnam to this retreat, where you can spend some time in quiet meditation and feel your senses feast on the lush greenery, the aromatic herb gardens, the simple vegetarian food and the

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A AC TM I VYITSTIOIVERISTEI E S K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU AC

ÿ Sleeping 9 Hotel Dasaprakash................................ D2 10 Hotel Maurya Residency........................E3 11 Hotel Mayura Hoysala........................... A2 12 Pai Vista...................................................E2 13 Parklane Hotel ........................................E3 14 Royal Orchid Metropole ........................ A2 15 Viceroy ................................................... D3

ú Eating 16 Café Aramane.........................................C4 17 Guru Sweet Mart ....................................C3 18 Hotel RRR ............................................... E3 19 Hotel RRR ...............................................D2 Parklane Hotel ...............................(see 13) Tiger Trail.......................................(see 14)

856

gurgling sounds of the Cauvery River. Daily rates include basic yoga sessions; for specific ayurvedic treatments, there are special packages on oﬀer. Book well in advance. Indus Valley Ayurvedic Centre AYURVEDA (%2473263; www.ayurindus.com; Lalithadripura; s/d incl full board ₹8400/14,090) Set on 16 acres

of gardens, this classy centre derives its therapies from ancient scriptures and prescriptions. A wide variety of treatments and basic training programs are on oﬀer. The overnight package includes one session each of ayurveda, yoga and beauty therapy.

Karanji Lake Nature Park BIRDWATCHING (Indiranagar; admission ₹10, camera/video ₹10/25; h8.30am-5.30pm) Next to the zoo, ths nature

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

park is the place to spy on various bird species, including great and little cormorants, purple and grey herons, egrets, black ibises, rose-ringed parakeets, green bee-eaters and painted storks, as well as several kinds of butterflies.

C Courses Yoga

The following places have put Mysore on the international yoga map. Unlike casual centres, they are all austerely committed to the art, and require at least a month’s commitment on your part. You’ll also need to register far in advance, as they are often booked out. Call or write to the centres for details. Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute YOGA (AYRI; %9880185500; www.kpjayi.org; 3rd Stage, 235 8th Cross, Gokulam) Founded by the re-

nowned Ashtanga teacher K Pattabhi Jois, who taught Madonna her yoga moves.

Atma Vikasa Centre YOGA (%2341978; www.atmavikasayoga.com; Kuvempunagar Double Rd) ‘Backbending expert’ Yo-

gacharya Venkatesh offers courses in yoga, Sanskrit and meditation. Call in advance to find out if they’ve already shifted to a new campus 2km away.

Sri Patanjala Yogashala YOGA (Yoga Research Institute; Sri Brahmatantra Swatantra Parakala Mutt, Jaganmohan Palace Circle; h6-8am & 5-7pm) The baby of well-

respected Ashtanga practitioner BNS Iyengar (not to be confused with BKS Iyengar, famed exponent of Iyengar yoga). Music

Jayashankar, the music teacher at Shruthi

Musical Works (%9845249518; 1189 3rd Cross,

NO ‘TOURISTS’, PLEASE Yoga Institutes, as well as local laws, insist that all visitors arriving in Mysore to train in yoga must do so on a student visa, not a casual tourist visa. You are also required to register yourself at the local police station within 14 days of your arrival.

Irwin Rd; h10.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-2pm Sun) gets good reviews for his tabla instruc-

tions (₹200 per hour).

T Tours

KSTDC runs a daily Mysore city tour (₹175),

taking in the entire city, Chamundi Hill, Srirangapatnam and Brindavan Gardens. It starts daily at 8.30am, ends at 8.30pm and is likely to leave you breathless! Other KSTDC tours include one to Belur, Halebid and Sravanabelagola (₹450) on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 7.30am to 9pm. It requires a minimum of 10 people, so call in advance. There’s also a three-day tour of Ooty, Kodaikanal, Doddabetta and Coonoor every Monday, Thursday and Saturday (per person including accommodation is ₹2500) that starts oﬀ from Bengaluru; you can join at Mysore. These tours generally run during the high season. All tours leave from the tours oﬃce at

Hotel Mayura Hoysala (%2423652; 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd). Bookings can be made at the nearby KSTDC Transport Office (%2423652; 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; h8.30am8.30pm) or at travel agencies around town.

4 Sleeping Mysore attracts tourists through the year and can fill up very quickly during Dussehra. Booking early is recommended. Check with the tourist oﬃce about governmentapproved homestays, oﬀering rooms from around ₹400 per person. The following have hot water (at least in the morning) and 24-hour checkout.

oParklane Hotel

HOTEL $$

(%4003500; www.parklanemysore.com; 2720 Harsha Rd; s/d from ₹900/1200; aWs) If there’s

one place in town that can spoil you for a grand a night, this is it. The travellers’ central on Mysore’s tourist circuit, the Parklane fea-

tures snug and thoughtfully outfitted rooms (even mobile-phone chargers are provided), livened up by motley tilework on the walls and lovely city views framed in sheer-draped windows. The loos are the cleanest you’ll find in town. And the restaurant on the first floor is one happy place to be in the evenings.

oMysore Youth Hostel

HOSTEL $

(%2544704; www.yhmysore.com; Gangothri Layout; dm from ₹60) Shoestringers take note.

This cutie is arguably the nicest hostel in all of India. Set against a patch of green lawns 3km west of town, it’s clean, tidy, well-maintained and manned by an extremely professional staﬀ. OK, there’s an 11pm curfew, but then, there’s also breakfast for ₹25 and dinner for ₹35. An age proof and identity document must be produced when checking in.

owned hotel continues to oﬀer its blend of mothballed heritage (lace-lined curtains, heavy wooden doors, assorted cane furniture and old photographs lining its corridors) at aﬀordable prices, and the bar downstairs is popular with Mysore’s tipplers. Ginger HOTEL $$ (%6633333; www.gingerhotels.com; Nazarbad Mohalla; s/d ₹2499/2999; aW) An ultramodern,

DIY business hotel, Ginger has slick and comfortable rooms painted in warm orange tones. Endless features such as a gymnasium, wi-fi, a 24-hour cafe, an ATM, snacks dispensers and juice vending machines complement the warm hospitality of its professional staﬀ. The in-house spa oﬀers ayurvedic sessions from ₹1200. Royal Orchid Metropole HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ (%4255566; www.royalorchidhotels.com; 5 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹4999/5999; aWs) Originally built by the Wodeyars to

serve as the residence of the Maharaja’s British guests, this is Mysore’s leading heritage address. A fascinating colonial-era structure with bona fide old-world charm, it has 30 rooms oozing character, and a stay here is spiced up with several add-ons such as occasional magic shows, music concerts, dance recitals, snake charming performances and astrological sessions. Hotel Maurya Residency HOTEL $$ (%2523375; www.sangrouphotel.com; Harsha Rd; d from ₹995; aW) Along with Hotel Maurya

857

Hotel Dasaprakash HOTEL $ (%2442444; www.mysoredasaprakashgroup.com; Gandhi Sq; s/d from ₹275/520, d with AC ₹1200; a)

A stalwart in Mysore’s hospitality industry, this hotel is particularly popular with local tourists and pilgrim groups. Rooms are well maintained; some get a touch of antiquity with old wooden furniture. However, maintenance may not always be up to expectations. An inexpensive veg restaurant, an ice-cream parlour and an astro-palmist are available within the complex. Green Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%4255000; www.greenhotelindia.com; 2270 Vinoba Rd; Jayalakshmipuram; s/d incl breakfast from ₹2250/2750) Given you’re 3km west of town,

you’re largely paying for the ambience here, which is more prominent in the themed and moody rooms in the main palace building. Those overlooking the garden are bare, inadequately appointed for the price and sparsely evoke nostalgia.

Pai Vista HOTEL $$ (%2521111; www.paihotels.com; 35A BN Rd; s/d incl breakfast ₹3000/3500; aWs) A mint-fresh

business hotel smack opposite the bus stand. Rooms and features are on par with any other hotel in its category. There’s a pub called Opium that plays groovy music in the evenings. Viceroy HOTEL $$ (%2425111; www.theviceroygroup.com; Harsha Rd; s/d from ₹1895/2295; ai) Very competi-

tively priced, The Viceroy continues to stay abreast of the midrange race in town. However, the main reason for checking into one of its comfy rooms is the million-dollar view of the Maharaja’s Palace from your window and the rooftop restaurant.

5 Eating & Drinking Mysore is well served by Indian restaurants. For Western food you’re best sticking with the major hotels. Unless otherwise mentioned, restaurants are open from noon to 3pm and 7pm to 11pm.

oMalgudi Café

CAFE $

(Green Hotel, mains ₹60-80; h9.30am-7pm) This

ambient cafe set around an inner courtyard

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A E ATM &RGDE& R ID N RK I N KGI N G K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU EI N AT YGSIO N

Hotel Mayura Hoysala HOTEL $ (%2426160; 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹800/900; a) This government-

Palace, its twin establishment next door, the Maurya Residency remains a trusted name among the Harsha Rd midrange gang. It’s a friendly place with well-appointed rooms and ecofriendly directives slapped all around. Veg Kourt, the restaurant downstairs, serves a sumptuous all-you-can-eat breakfast for ₹65.

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within Green Hotel’s main building brews some of the best South Indian coﬀees and Himalayan teas, coupling them with a number of tasty snacks. It actively promotes the causes of downtrodden communities while generating employment for them – all the attendants here come from underprivileged backgrounds. You can do your bit by ordering a second cuppa.

oPelican Pub

PUB $

(Hunsur Rd; mains ₹80-100; h11am-11pm) A

wonderful pub is the Pelican! Whether you love your Ogden Nash or not, you’re bound to be one happy soul here. An alfresco-style watering hole located en route to Green Hotel, this laid-back joint serves beer for ₹50 a mug and some sinful pork chilli for ₹110 a platter. Happiness, of course, comes free. K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

Parklane Hotel MULTICUISINE $$ (Parklane Hotel, 2720 Harsha Rd; mains ₹100-140)

Choose from a wide selection of tasty Indian, Continental and Chinese dishes while lounging at one of the Parklane’s picnic-style garden tables, lit up moodily by countless lanterns. The indoor seating area allows you to interact with house musicians who play popular Indian and Western tunes on request. A good place to exchange notes with fellow travellers.

Tiger Trail INDIAN $$ (Royal Orchid Metropole, 5 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; mains ₹180-220) This sophisticated restaurant

works up delectable Indian dishes in a courtyard that twinkles with torches and fairy lights at night. The best section on its menu comprises exotic jungle recipes collected from diﬀerent tiger reserves across India.

ments, this busy cafe rolls out steaming breakfast platters for Mysore’s oﬃce-goers, and welcomes them back in the evenings with aromatic filter coﬀee and a convoy of delicious snacks. Café Coffee Day CAFE $ (CCD; Devaraj Urs Rd; snacks ₹60-90; h10am11pm) Yes, these guys do have a gazillion

outlets across India, but few other branches can match this lovely operation in terms of chill factor. The cool terrace sit-out is where you’ll find Mysore’s college brigade downing their joes with vigour.

Shopping

Mysore is a great place to shop for its famed sandalwood products, silk saris and wooden toys. It is also one of India’s major incensemanufacturing centres. Souvenir and handicraft shops are dotted around Jaganmohan Palace and Dhanvanthri Rd, while silk shops line Devaraj Urs Rd. Look for the butterfly-esque ‘Silk Mark’ on your purchase; it’s an endorsement for quality silk. Government Silk Factory CLOTHING (Mananthody Rd, Ashokapuram; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) Given that Mysore’s prized silk is

made under its very sheds, this is the best and cheapest place to shop for the exclusive textile. Behind the showroom is the factory, where you can drop by between 7.30am and 4pm to see how the fabric is made. There’s an outlet (h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) on KR Circle as well. Sandalwood Oil Factory SOUVENIRS (Ashokapuram; h9.30-11am & 2-4pm Mon-Sat)

Hotel RRR SOUTH INDIAN $ (Gandhi Sq; mains ₹50-70) Classic Andhra-style

This is a quality-assured place for sandalwood products such as incense, soap, cosmetic products and the prohibitively expensive pure sandalwood oil (₹1350 for 5ml!). Sandalwood is currently in short supply, so prices may escalate further in future. Guided tours are available to show you around the factory, and explain how the products are made.

Vinayaka Mylari SOUTH INDIAN $ (769 Nazarbad Main Rd; mains ₹30-50; h7.30am11.30am & 4-8pm) Local foodies say this is

Cauvery Arts & Crafts CLOTHING Emporium (Sayyaji Rao Rd; h10am-7.30pm) Not the

food is ladled out at this ever-busy eatery, and you will likely have to queue for a table during meals. One item to try is the pipinghot veg thali (₹50) served on banana leaves. There’s a second branch on Harsha Rd.

one of the best eateries in town to try local staples such as the masala dosa (papery lentil-flour pancakes stuﬀed with seasonal vegetables) and idlis (rice cakes) served with coconut chutney. Café Aramane SOUTH INDIAN $ (Sayyaji Rao Rd, mains ₹40-60; h7.30am-10pm)

Yet another of Mysore’s august establish-

cheapest place, but the selection is extensive, the quality is unquestionable and there’s no pressure to buy.

Fabindia CLOTHING (%4259009; 451 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd, Chamrajpuram; h10am-8pm) A branch of the ever

reliable clothing and homewares shop, en route to the silk and sandalwood factories.

Shruthi Musical Works MUSIC STORE (1189 3rd Cross, Irwin Rd; h10.30am-8pm MonSat) Sells a variety of traditional musical

instruments including tabla sets and assorted percussion instruments.

Sapna Book House BOOKSTORE (1433 Narayan Shastry Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm) A

good collections of paperbacks and magazines, along with souvenirs.

8 Information

Internet Access Benaka Graphics (Sayyaji Rao Rd; per hr ₹20; h10.30am-7.30pm) Internet, printing, image burning and photocopying facilities. KSE Internet (Hotel Ramanashree Complex; BN Rd; per hr ₹30; h10am-10pm) Fast internet connections.

Medical Services Government Hospital (% 4269806; Dhanvanthri Rd) Has a 24-hour pharmacy. Money HDFC Bank (Devaraj Urs Rd) ATM. ICICI Bank (BN Rd) ATM location, below Hotel Pai Vista. State Bank of Mysore (cnr Irwin & Ashoka Rds; h10.30am-2.30pm & 3-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-12.30pm Sat) Changes cash and travellers cheques. Thomas Cook (%2420090; Silver Tower, 9/2 Ashoka Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) For foreign currency.

859

Post DHL (Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; h9.30am8.30pm Mon-Sat) Main post office (cnr Irwin & Ashoka Rds; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Tourist Information Karnataka Tourism (%2422096; Old Exhibition Bldg, Irwin Rd; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Extremely helpful. KSTDC Transport Office (%2423652; 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; h8.30am-8.30pm) KSTDC has counters at the train station and Central bus stand, as well as this transport office next to KSTDC Hotel Mayura Hoysala.

8 Getting There & Away

Air Mysore’s new airport had been freshly commissioned during research, with a solitary Kingfisher flight to Bengaluru (one hour) continuing to Chennai (three hours). Indian Airlines (%2426317; Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) has a booking oﬃce next to Hotel Mayura Hoysala for flights out of other cities. For booking on other carriers, try Skyway (%2444444; 370/4 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat). Bus The Central bus stand (BN Rd) handles all KSRTC long-distance buses. The City bus stand (Sayyaji Rao Rd) is for city, Srirangapatnam and Chamundi Hill buses. KSRTC bus services from

BUSES FROM MYSORE DESTINATION

FARE (₹)

DURATION (HR)

Bandipur

52 (O)

FREQUENCY

4 daily

Bengaluru

136 (R)/217 (V)

every 30min

Channarayapatna

56 (O)

hourly

Chennai

829 (V)

4 daily

Ernakulam

388 (R)/530 (V)

4 daily

Gokarna

323 (O)

1 daily

Hassan

76 (O)

hourly

Hospet

291 (O)

4 daily

Mangalore

252 (R)/350 (V)

hourly

Ooty

123 (R)/184 (V)

8 daily

O – Ordinary, R – Rajahamsa Semideluxe, V – Airavath AC Volvo

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A 8 M K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU 8 YSORE

Left Luggage The City bus stand’s cloakroom, open from 6am to 11pm, costs ₹10 per bag for 12 hours.

Photography Danthi (44 Devaraj Urs Rd; h10am-8pm) Rekha Colour Lab (142 Dhanvanthri Rd; h9am-9.30pm)

860

Mysore include those listed in the boxed text p860. For Belur, Halebid or Sravanabelagola, the usual gateway is Hassan. For Hampi, the best transfer point is Hospet. The Private bus stand (Sayyaji Rao Rd) has services to Hubli, Bijapur, Mangalore, Ooty and Ernakulam. You’ll find several ticketing agents around the stand.

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

Train From Mysore’s railway booking oﬃce, buy a ticket on the 6.45am Chamundi Express or the 11am Tippu Express to Bengaluru (2nd class/ chair ₹66/195, three hours). The 2.15 Shatabdi Express also connects Bengaluru (chair/executive ₹275/550, two hours) and Chennai (chair/ executive ₹695/1315, seven hours) daily except Tuesday. Several passenger trains to Bengaluru (₹35, 3½ hours), stop at Srirangapatnam (₹15, 20 minutes). The 10.15pm Mysore Dharwad Express goes to Hubli (sleeper/2AC ₹206/750, 9½ hours).

8 Getting Around

Agencies at hotels and around town rent cabs for about ₹7 per kilometre, with a minimum of 250km per day, plus a daily allowance of ₹150 for the driver. The flagfall on autorickshaws is ₹15, and ₹7 per kilometre is charged thereafter. Autorickshaws can also be hired along Harsha Rd for a day’s sightseeing (₹900).

Around Mysore SRIRANGAPATNAM % 08236

Steeped in bloody history, the fort town of Srirangapatnam, 16km for Mysore, is built on an island straddling the Cauvery River. The seat of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan’s power, this town was the de facto capital of much of southern India during the 18th century. Srirangapatnam’s glory days ended when the British waged an epic war again Tipu Sultan in 1799, when he was defeated and killed. However, the ramparts, battlements and some of the gates of the fort still stand, as do a clutch of monuments. Close to the bus station is a handsome twin-tower mosque built by the sultan. Within the fort walls are the dungeon where Tipu held British oﬃcers captive, and the handsome Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple (h7.30am-1pm & 4-8pm). Srirangapatnam’s star attraction, however, is Tipu’s summer palace, Daria Daulat Bagh (Indian/foreigner

₹5/100; h9am-5pm), which lies 1km east of the fort. Built largely out of wood, the palace is notable for the lavish decoration covering every inch of its interiors. The ceilings are embellished with floral designs, while the walls bear murals depicting courtly life and Tipu’s campaigns against the British. There’s a small museum within, which houses several artefacts including a portrait of Tipu Sultan, aged 30, painted by European artist John Zoﬀany in 1780. About 2km further east, the remains of Hyder Ali, his wife and Tipu are housed in the impressive onion-domed Gumbaz (admission free; h8am-8pm), which stands amid serene gardens. Head 500m east of Gumbaz for the river banks to end your trip with a refreshing coracle ride (per boat ₹150, 15 min). Just 3km upstream, the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary (Indian/foreigner ₹25/75, camera/video ₹25/100; h8.30am-6pm) is on one of

three islands in the Cauvery River. Resident storks, ibises, egrets, spoonbills and cormorants are best seen at dawn or late afternoons on a boat ride (per person ₹100).

4 Sleeping & Eating

Mayura River View HOTEL $$ (%252113; d from ₹1750; a) How we wish all

government hotels were done up like the Mayura River View. Set on a quiet patch of riverbank, its cosy bungalows are custommade for unwinding in the lap of nature. And the restaurant (mains ₹90 to ₹120) has a wonderful sit-out from where you can gaze at the river while guzzling beer. Royal Retreat New Amblee Holiday HOTEL $$ Resort (%9845002665; www.ambleeresort.com; d from ₹1200; as) A menagerie of rabbits, ducks,

turkeys and emus welcome you into the Amblee, which oﬀers relatively good accommodation and a swimming pool to splash in. It has a pleasant riverside setting opposite the River View, and a reasonably priced restaurant that doesn’t serve booze (although you can whisk it away to your room).

8 Getting There & Away

Take buses 313 or 316 (₹14, one hour) that depart frequently from Mysore’s City bus stand. Passenger trains travelling from Mysore to Bengaluru (₹12, 20 minutes) also stop here. The stand for private buses heading to Brindavan

Gardens (₹18, 30 minutes) is just across from Srirangapatnam’s main bus stand.

8 Getting Around

The sights are a little spread out, but walking isn’t out of the question, especially in winter. For a quicker tour, an autorickshaw from Mysore is about ₹400 (three hours). BRINDAVAN GARDENS

(%9945815566; www.royalorchidhotels.com; s/d incl breakfast from ₹4499/4999; aWs), an

enormous luxury hotel perched atop a hillock overlooking the gardens. The rooms here are lavishly outfitted, and the strategically-located Elephant Bar is a vantage point from where to view the light-and-sound shows while sipping on your poison. The gardens are 19km northwest of Mysore. One of the KSTDC tours stops here, and buses 301, 304, 305, 306 and 365 depart from Mysore’s City bus stand hourly (₹15, 45 minutes).

Life in the devout Hindu town of Melkote, about 50km north of Mysore, revolves around the atmospheric 12th-century Cheluvanarayana Temple (Raja St; h8am-1pm & 5-8pm), with its rose-coloured gopuram (gateway tower) and ornately carved pillars. Get a workout on the hike up to the hilltop Yoganarasimha Temple, which oﬀers fine views of the surrounding hills. The town comes alive for the Vairamudi Festival in March or April. Three KSRTC buses shuttle daily between Mysore and Melkote (₹45, 1½ hours).

861

SOMNATHPUR

The astonishingly beautiful Keshava Tem-

ple (Indian/foreigner ₹5/100; h8.30am-5.30pm)

is one of the finest examples of Hoysala architecture, on par with the masterpieces of Belur and Halebid. Built in 1268, this star-shaped temple, 33km from Mysore, is adorned with superb stone sculptures depicting various scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and Bhagavad Gita, and the life and times of the Hoysala kings. On a tree in the temple grounds there’s a red postbox, where prestamped mail posted by you will be collected by the local post oﬃce and marked with a special postmark bearing the temple’s image – this is a great memento to send back home. Somnathpur is 12km south of Bannur and 10km north of Tirumakudal Narsipur. Take one of the half-hourly buses from Mysore to either village (₹15, 30 minutes) and change there.

GO FISH Game for some fishy gambolling? Then you’re in luck. About 75km from Mysore, strung along the densely forested banks of the quiet-flowing Cauvery River, are the picturesque fishing camps of Bheemeshwari, Galibore and Doddamakali, teeming with their resident populations of carp, catfish and the venerable mahseer. Anglers are fast converging from around the world to hook these 45kg-plus beasts who (going by the trophy shots displayed in the dining hall) often seem to match their human captors in size. All fishing is on a catch-and-release policy. There’s some equipment on hire, but get your own tackles, if possible. Non-anglers, meanwhile, can engage in kayaking, coracle rides, biking or ayurveda sessions. Of the three camps, Bheemeshwari is the most developed in terms of facilities, and more easily accessible. Accommodation is in a choice of ecofriendly cottages (per person incl full board Indian/ foreigner from ₹2500/€70) operated by Jungle Lodges & Resorts (Map p844; %08025597944; www.junglelodges.com; Shrungar Shopping Complex, MG Rd, Bengaluru; h10am5.30pm Mon-Sat). Book in Bengaluru or online. The best way to reach the camps is by taxi. Drive past Malavalli, before turning right at Sathanur. It’s 23km from here to Bheemeshwari. Resort jeeps connect the other camps from here.

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A 8 A K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU 8 ROUND MYSORE

If you’re familiar with Bollywood cinema, these ornamental gardens (adult/child ₹20/15, camera/video ₹50/100; h8am-8.30pm) might give you a sense of déjà vu – they’ve indeed been the backdrop for many a gyrating musical number. The best time to visit is in the evening, when the fountains are illuminated and made to dance to popular film tunes. There’s no reason to halt a night in the gardens. For a special experience, however, you might consider checking into the swanky Royal Orchid Brindavan Garden

MELKOTE

862

SIVASAMUDRAM

About 60km east of Mysore is Sivasamudram, home to the twin waterfalls of Barachukki and Gaganachukki. The site of India’s first hydroelectric project (1902), it’s a place where you can spend a quiet time while indulging in natural bounties. A few kilometres away is Hebbani village, where the aﬀable Hatherell couple and their 10 dogs run the relaxing Georgia Sunshine

Village (%9448110660; www.georgiasunshine. com; d incl full board from ₹5000; as), a superb

Jewel Rock HOTEL $ (%261048; BM Rd; d from ₹700; a) Close to the

train station, this place is an absolute steal. The spacious rooms, with floral curtains, are comfortable and well-kept. Raucous private parties are often thrown by locals in the banquet hall downstairs; hopefully, you’ll be checking in on a quieter day.

Hotel Hassan Ashhok HOTEL $$ (%268731; www.hassanashok.com; BM Rd; s/d from ₹3000/3350; aW) Clearly the classiest

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

family getaway with accommodation in cosy bungalows, a sparkling swimming pool and delicious homemade food. Treks and fishing trips can be arranged on request. Frequent buses run from Mysore (₹30, one hour) to Malavalli, 14km away. The Hatherells can arrange an autorickshaw pickup for ₹150. Call well in advance.

of Hassan’s city options, this elegantly designed hotel oﬀers you all the requisite luxe features, baskets full of herbal toiletries in the showers and plenty of fluﬀy white pillows to crash on. The restaurant works up a good range of Indian dishes, including a jumbo kebab platter (₹350).

Hassan

this place has biggish rooms done up in red-and-black checks, and large windows. There’s a quality veg restaurant (mains ₹40 to ₹60) downstairs. Book well in advance.

% 08172 / POP 133,200

With a good range of hotels, a railhead and other conveniences, Hassan is a handy base for exploring Belur (38km), Halebid (33km) and Sravanabelagola (48km). Situated close to Mysore and Bengaluru, it’s a bustling town with friendly people.

4 Sleeping oHoysala Village Resort

HOTEL $$$

(%256764; www.hoysalavillageresorts.com; Belur Rd; cottage incl full board ₹6300; as) Located

6km from town on the road to Belur, this fantastic getaway is set amid a patch of manicured gardens, tucked around which are comfy cottages with large windows looking onto palms and hedges. There’s a treehouse where you can laze away the evening, beer in hand, or flex your pectorals in the aqua-blue pool. And the food at the restaurant adjoining the reception area is scrummy to boot. The resort also has an ayurvedic massage centre; sessions kick oﬀ from around ₹700.

Hotel Suvarna Regency HOTEL $$ (%266774; www.suvarnaregencyhotel.com; BM Rd; d from ₹750; ai) This place, just south of

Gandhi Sq, is frequented by business people, and is one of Hassan’s trusted oldies. It’s often bulk-booked by organisers of conferences and conventions, so call early. The rooms are comfy, though dated in terms of decor.

Hotel Sri Krishna HOTEL $ (%263240; BM Rd; s/d ₹350/725, d with AC ₹975; a) Hugely popular with local tourists,

5 Eating

Suvarna Gate MULTICUISINE $$ (Hotel Suvarna Regency, BM Rd; mains ₹90-130; hnoon-3.30pm & 6.30-11.30pm) Located to the

rear of Hotel Suvarna Regency, this classy eatery tosses up some excellent Indian, Chinese and Continental mainstays – the chicken tandoori masala is particularly delicious. Mayur INDIAN $$ (Hotel Jewel Rock, BM Rd; mains ₹80-110; hnoon3pm & 7-11pm) Hungry crowds flock to this

eatery every evening for its lip-smacking South Indian as well as North Indian nonveg fare. The staﬀ are patient and polite.

Hotel GRR SOUTH INDIAN $ (Bus Stand Rd; mains ₹30-60; h11am-11pm) Top-

of-the-line Andhra-style thalis (₹35) and a popular chicken biryani (₹60) personify this grubby joint next to the bus stand.

8 Information

The train station is 2km east of town on Bengaluru-Mangalore (BM) Rd. The Central bus stand is on the corner of AVK College and Bus Stand Rds. The helpful tourist oﬃce (%268862; AVK College Rd; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) is 100m east of the bus stand. SBI and HDFC Bank have ATMs on BM Rd, but change foreign currency in Bengaluru or Mysore. There’s an internet cafe (per hr ₹20) below Hotel Suvarna Regency.

8 Getting There & Away

Bus Starting from 6am, buses leave the Central bus stand hourly for Halebid (₹18, one hour) and Belur (₹23, one hour). The last buses back from both places are around 8pm. To get to Sravanabelagola, you must take one of the many buses to Channarayapatna (₹25, 45 minutes) and change there. There are frequent services to Mysore (₹76, three hours), Bengaluru (semideluxe/deluxe ₹179/246, four hours) and Mangalore (₹166, five hours). Taxi Taxi drivers hang out on AVK College Rd, north of the bus stand. A day tour of Belur and Halebid or Sravanabelagola will cost you about ₹1000. Firmly set the price before departure.

Belur & Halebid % 08177 / ELEV 968M

Along with Somnathpur, the Hoysala temples at Halebid (also known as Halebeedu) and Belur (also called Beluru) are the apex of one of the most artistically exuberant periods of ancient Hindu cultural development. Architecturally, they are South India’s answer to Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh and Konark near Puri in Odisha (Orissa). Only 16km lie between Belur and Halebid, and the towns are connected by frequent shuttle buses from 6.30am to 7pm (₹20, 40 minutes). See p863 for details of buses to/ from Hassan. To get to Hampi, it’s best to return to Bengaluru via Hassan and take an overnight bus to Hospet. BELUR The Channakeshava Temple (Temple Rd; hdawn-dusk) was commissioned in 1116 to

commemorate the Hoysalas’ victory over the neighbouring Cholas. It took more than a century to build, and is currently the only one among the three major Hoysala sites still in daily use – try to be there for the ritual puja ceremonies at 9am, 3pm and 7.30pm. Some parts of the temple, such as the exterior lower friezes, were not sculpted to completion and are thus less elaborate than those of the other Hoysala temples.

Hotel Mayura Velapuri (%222209; Kempegowda Rd; d from ₹900; a), a state-run hotel

gleaming with post-renovation glory, is located on the way to the temple, and is the best place to camp in Belur. The restaurantbar serves a variety of Indian dishes and snacks (₹70 to ₹90) to go with beer. Near Kempegowda’s statue is Shankar Hotel (Temple Rd; mains ₹35; h7am-9.30pm), a busy place serving fine South Indian thalis, masala dosas, Indian sweets, snacks and drinks. HALEBID

Construction of the Hoysaleswara Temple (hdawn-dusk), Halebid’s claim to fame,

began around 1121 and went on for more than 80 years. It was never completed, but nonetheless stands today as a masterpiece of Hoysala architecture. The interior of its inner sanctum, chiselled out of black stone, is marvellous. On the outside, the temple’s richly sculpted walls are covered with a flurry of Hindu deities, sages, stylised animals and friezes depicting the life of the Hoysala rulers. A huge statue of Nandi (Shiva’s bull) sits to the left of the main temple, facing the inner sanctum. Guides are available to show you around for ₹150; the shoekeeper expects a wee tip for holding your shoes when you enter the temple. The temple is set in large, well-tended gardens, adjacent to which is a small museum (admission ₹5; h10am-5pm Sat-Thu) housing a collection of sculptures. If the pesky touts get on your nerves, take some time out to visit the nearby, smaller Kedareswara Temple, or a little-visited enclosure containing three Jain temples about 500m away, which also have fine carvings.

863

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A 8 B K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU 8 ELUR & HALEBID

Train From the well-organised train station, three passenger trains head to Mysore daily (2nd class ₹120, three hours). For Bengaluru, take the 1.30am Yeshvantpur Express (sleeper ₹140, 5½ hours).

However, the work higher up is unsurpassed in detail and artistry, and is a glowing tribute to human skill. Particularly intriguing are the angled bracket figures depicting women in ritual dancing poses. While the front of the temple is reserved for images depicting erotic sections from the Kama Sutra, the back is strictly for gods. The roof of the inner sanctum is held up by rows of exquisitely sculpted pillars, no two of which are identical in design. Scattered around the temple complex are other smaller temples, a marriage hall which is still used and the seven-storey gopuram, which has sensual sculptures explicitly portraying the activities of dancing girls. Guides can be hired for ₹150; they help to bring some of the sculptural detail to life.

864

If you’re stuck in Halebid for the night, the tidy rooms at Hotel Mayura Shanthala (%273224; d ₹350), set around a leafy garden opposite the temple complex, is an OK fallback option.

munity; h6am-6pm), on Chandragiri Hill opposite Vindhyagiri, is believed to have been built by Emperor Ashoka. The Bhandari Basti (Bhandari Community; h6am-6pm), in the southeast corner of town, is Sravanabelagola’s largest temple. Nearby, Chandranatha Basti (Chandranatha Community; h6am-6pm)

Sravanabelagola

has well-preserved paintings depicting Jain tales.

% 08176

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

Atop the bald rock of Vindhyagiri Hill, the 17.5m-high statue of the Jain deity Gomateshvara (Bahubali), said to be the world’s tallest monolithic statue, is visible long before you reach the pilgrimage town of Sravanabelagola. Viewing the statue close up is the main reason for heading to this sedate town, whose name means ‘Monk of the White Pond’.

4 Sleeping & Eating

1 Sights

vately owned hotel around, and oﬀers basic but clean rooms. The real bonus is its vegetarian restaurant (h6am-9pm) downstairs, which works up an awesome veg thali (₹50), served with care by the staﬀ and sometimes the owner himself.

Gomateshvara Statue MONUMENT (Bahubali; h6.30am-6.30pm) A steep climb up

614 steps takes you to the top of Vindhyagiri Hill, the summit of which is lorded over by the towering naked statue of Gomateshvara. Commissioned by a military commander in the service of the Ganga king Rachamalla and carved out of a single piece of granite by the sculptor Aristenemi in AD 981, its serenity and simplicity is in stark contrast to the Hoysala sites at Belur and Halebid. Bahubali was the son of emperor Vrishabhadeva, who later became the first Jain tirthankar (revered teacher) Adinath. Embroiled in fierce competition with his brother Bharatha to succeed his father, Bahubali realised the futility of material gains and renounced his kingdom. As a recluse, he meditated in complete stillness in the forest until he attained enlightenment. His lengthy meditative spell is denoted by vines curling around his legs and an ant hill at his feet. Leave shoes at the foot of the hill, but it’s fine to wear socks. If you want it easy, you can hire a dholi (portable chair) with bearers for ₹400, from 6.30am to 11.30pm and 3.30pm to 6pm. Every 12 years, millions flock here to attend the Mastakabhisheka ceremony, when the statue is dowsed in holy waters, pastes, powders, precious metals and stones. The next ceremony is slated for 2018. Temples

JAIN TEMPLES

Apart from the Bahubali statue, there are several interesting Jain temples in town. The Chandragupta Basti (Chandragupta Com-

local Jain organisation SDJMI (%257258; d/tr ₹135/160) handles bookings The

for its 15 guesthouses. The oﬃce is behind the Vidyananda Nilaya Dharamsala, past the post oﬃce.

Hotel Raghu HOTEL $ (%257238; d from ₹500; a) This is the only pri-

8 Getting There & Away

There are no direct buses from Sravanabelagola to Hassan or Belur – you must go to Channarayapatna (₹15, 20 minutes) and catch an onward connection there. Four daily buses run direct to Bengaluru (₹92, 3½ hours) and Mysore (₹56, 2½ hours). Long-distance buses clear out before 3pm. If you miss these, catch a local bus to Channarayapatna and change there.

Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve The pristine forests of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve are one of India’s best-

preserved wildernesses, and span about 5500 sq km across the states of Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Human access to the reserve is through a number of national parks, such as Wayanad (see p972) in Kerala and Mudumalai (see p1059) in Tamil Nadu. In Karnataka, the best access points are Bandipur and Nagarhole, with the super-green forested region around the Kabini Lake boasting some of the top wildlife camps in the region. Home to over 100 species of mammals and some 350 species of birds, the reserve is also a natural habitat for the prized but endangered Bengal tigers and Asiatic elephants; more than a fifth of the world’s population of jumbos live here.

BANDIPUR NATIONAL PARK

4 Sleeping & Eating

SBandipur Safari Lodge

for long stretches between July and October, when the rains transform the forests into a giant slush-pit. The park’s main entrance is 93km southwest of Mysore. If you’re not staying at a resort nearby, the only way to see the park is on the forest department’s bus tour (per person ₹100; h6-8am & 3-5.30pm). The best time to view wildlife is during summer (April to May), though winter (November to February) is kinder. Decent sleeping options are limited in Nagarhole; you’re better oﬀ in Kabini Lake. An OK place to camp is Jungle Inn (%08222-246022; www.jungleinn.in; HunsurNagarhole Rd; per head incl full board Indian/foreigner from ₹1800/US$60) about 35km from

the park reception on the Hunsur road. With a welcoming atmosphere, evening campfires and simple, clean rooms, it also serves good organic food. Rates for safaris are extra. KABINI LAKE

CAMPGROUND $$

(Mysore-Ooty Rd; person incl full board Indian/foreigner ₹3000/€70; a) Located on the fringes

of the park is this largish governmentowned ecotourism camp that oﬀers luxurious but low-impact accommodation in wellmaintained cottages. Rates include a safari, guided nature walks, entry fees and camera fees, and there are good Indian and Continental buﬀets for meals. Tusker Trails CAMPGROUND $$ (%080-23618024, 09845326467; per person incl full board Indian/foreigner ₹3000/4200; s) A

lovely camp located on the eastern edge of the park, this place provides accommodation in simple huts backed by the forest. There’s good food and an inviting pool. Rates include one daily safari, trekking with local guides, wildlife documentary screenings and a bonfire.

8 Getting There & Away

Buses between Mysore and Ooty will drop you at Bandipur (₹55, three hours). You can also book an overnight taxi from Mysore (about ₹2000). NAGARHOLE NATIONAL PARK

West of the Kabini River is the 643-sq-km wildlife sanctuary of Nagarhole National

Park (Rajiv Gandhi National Park; Indian/foreigner ₹50/150), pronounced nag-ar-hole-eh. The

lush forests here are home to tigers, leopards, elephants, gaurs, muntjacs (barking deer), wild dogs, bonnet macaques and common langurs. The park can remain closed

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About 70km south of Mysore lies Kabini Lake, a giant forest-edged reservoir formed

by the damming of the Kabini River. Endowed with rich and unspoilt vegetation, the area has rapidly grown to become one of Karnataka’s best wildlife getaways. Positioned midway between the animal corridors of Bandipur and Nagarhole, the Kabini forests are also the habitat for a large variety of wildlife, and give you the chance to view the animals up close. Tourism around Kabini is managed by a few resorts, most of which are founded on ecofriendly principles. Jungle safaris and other activities such as boat rides and birdwatching are conducted by the resorts, generally between 6.30am to 9.30am, and 4pm to 7pm.

4 Sleeping & Eating

oKabini River Lodge

CAMPGROUND $$$

(%08228-264402; per person (Indian) incl full board tents/r/cottages ₹3750/4500/5250, per foreigner (flat rate) €120; a) Rated consistently

among the world’s best wildlife getaways, this fascinating government-run luxury ecocamp is located on the serene, tree-lined grounds of the former Mysore maharaja’s hunting lodge beside Kabini Lake. Promising an opulent yet idyllic experience, this showcase resort has hosted countless celebrities (Goldie Hawn is apparently an ardent fan) from around the world. Manned by an excellent staﬀ, it oﬀers accommodation in a choice of large canvas tents, regular rooms

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A 8 N K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU 8 ILGIRI BIOSPHERE RESERVE

About 80km south of Mysore on the Ooty road, the Bandipur National Park (Indian/ foreigner ₹75/175, video ₹100) covers 880 sq km and was once the Mysore maharajas’ private wildlife reserve. The park is noted for its herds of gaurs (Indian bison), chitals (spotted deer), sambars, panthers, sloth bears and langurs, as well as tigers and elephants. However, unrestricted traﬃc hurtling down the highway cutting through the forest has made animals wary of venturing close to safari areas. Brief elephant rides (per person ₹100) are available for a minimum of four people. For a safari (per person Indian/foreigner ₹75/175; h6.30am, 8.30am, 3.30pm & 5.30pm) there’s the forest department’s rumbling minibus, noisy enough to put oﬀ shy creatures. Resort vehicles are permitted to go into the forest; they are quieter and thus a better bet.

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and cottages. Rates include safaris, boat rides and forest entry fees. Book through

Jungle Lodges & Resorts Ltd (Map p844; %080-25597944; www.junglelodges.com; Shrungar Shopping Complex, MG Rd, Bengaluru; h10am5.30pm Mon-Sat).

SCicada Kabini

CAMPGROUND $$$

(%080-41152200,9945602305; www.cicadaresorts .com; d incl full board ₹13,000; ais) Another

highly recommended ecoresort, this wellconceived luxury option brings a dash of contemporary chic to the lakeside. The resort devotes itself to minimising environmental depletion while promoting rural empowerment. Rates are for accommodation and meals only; safaris (Indian/foreigner ₹750/1000) and kayaks and pedal boats (₹100) are extra. K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

8 Getting There & Away

A few buses depart daily from Mysore and can drop you at Kabini village. However, it’s better to have your own taxi. Enquire with the resorts while making a booking.

Kodagu (Coorg) Region Nestled amid ageless hills that line the southernmost edge of Karnataka is the luscious Kodagu (Coorg) region, gifted with emerald landscapes and acres of plantations. A major centre for coﬀee and spice production, this rural expanse is also home to the unique Kodava race, believed to have descended from migrating Persians and Kurds or perhaps Greeks left behind from Alexander the Great’s armies. The uneven terrain and cool climate make it a fantastic area for trekking, birdwatching or lazily ambling down littletrod paths winding around carpeted hills. All in all, Kodagu is rejuvenation guaranteed. The best season for trekking is October to March. Guides are available for hire and can arrange food, transport and accommodation; see p866. Treks can last from a day to a week; the most popular routes are to the peaks of Tadiyendamol (1745m) and Pushpagiri (1712m), and to smaller Kotebetta. Adventure activities are conducted between November and May; the rest of the year is too wet for traipsing around. Kodagu was a state in its own right until 1956, when it merged with Karnataka. The region’s chief town and transport hub is Madikeri, but for an authentic Kodagu experience, you have to venture into the plantations. Avoid weekends, when places can

quickly get filled up by weekenders from Bengaluru. MADIKERI (MERCARA)

% 08272 / POP 32,400 / ELEV 1525M

Also known as Mercara, this congested market town is spread out along a series of ridges. The only reason for coming here is to organise treks or sort out the practicalities of travel. The Huthri festival, which falls sometime between November and December, is a nice time to visit. In the chaotic centre around the KSRTC and private-bus stands, you’ll find most hotels and restaurants.

1 Sights

Madikeri’s fort, now the municipal headquarters, was built in 1812 by Raja Lingarajendra II. There’s an old church here, housing a quirky museum (admission free; h10am5.30pm Tue-Sun) displaying dusty, poorly labelled artefacts. Panoramic views of the hills and valleys can be savoured from Raja’s Seat (MG Rd; h5.30am-7.30pm). Behind are gardens, a toy-train line for kids and a tiny Kodava-style temple. On the way to Abbi Falls, a pleasant 7km hike from the town centre, visit the quietly beautiful Raja’s Tombs, better known as Gaddige. An autorickshaw costs about ₹200 return. Activities Trekking

TREKKING

A trekking guide is essential for navigating the labyrinth of forest tracks. Most of the estates in Kodagu also oﬀer trekking programs. Veteran guides Raja Shekhar and Ganesh at V-Track (%229102, 229974; Crown Towers, College Rd; h10am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat) can arrange one- to 10-day treks including guide, accommodation and food. Rates are around ₹750 per person per day, and can vary depending on the duration and number of people. For long treks, trips on obscure routes or big groups, it’s best to give a week’s notice. Coorg Trails (%9886665459; www.coorg trails.com; Main Rd; h9am-8.30pm) is another

recommended outfit that can arrange day treks around Madikeri for ₹500 per person, and a 22km trek to Kotebetta, including an overnight stay in a village, for ₹1500 per person.

SCoorg Planters’ Camp OUTDOOR ADVENTURE (%080-41159270;

www.coorgplanterscamp.com)

Located in Kirudale, 25km from Madikeri, Coorg Planters’ Camp is a fantastic ecoresort

featuring tented accommodation, which offers activities such as coﬀee plantation tours, trekking, birdwatching and nature walks through dense forests. However, large-scale renovation was on during research, and it appeared like the resort would only open sometime in early 2012. Hopefully, the wait will have been worth it. Ayurjeevan AYURVEDA (Kohinoor Rd; h9am-6pm) Ayurjeevan, a short

walk from ICICI Bank, oﬀers a whole range of rejuvenating ayurvedic packages, with 30-minute sessions kicking oﬀ at around ₹400.

4 Sleeping Many hotels reduce their rates in the low season (June to September); all of those listed below have hot water, at least in the morning, and 24-hour checkout.

on a secluded hilltop past Raja’s Seat, this is clearly Madikeri’s best sleeping option. It has large bright rooms with fantastic views of the valley outside its floor-to-ceiling windows. Service – though patchy – could be bettered for a small tip. The all-new

restaurant-bar (mains ₹70 to ₹100, open 7am to 10pm) with a terrace overlooking the valley

is the coolest place for a drink.

Hotel Hill View HOTEL $$ (%223808; Hill Rd; d from ₹950) Situated at a far

corner of the new town, this cosy hotel has small but well-kept rooms. The wall shades and the pruned hedges in the tiny sit-outs are perfectly colour coordinated with the green hills that overlook the rooms. Tours and bonfires can be arranged on request.

Hotel Chitra HOTEL $ (%225372; www.hotelchitra.net; School Rd; d from ₹600) A short walk oﬀ Madikeri’s main traf-

fic intersection is this austere hotel, providing low-cost, no-frills yet good-value rooms. The sheets are clean and service is eﬃcient, which – coupled with its mid-town location – makes it a good budget option.

Hotel Cauvery HOTEL $ (%225492; School Rd; s/d ₹350/800) This geri-

atric hotel has just been given a facelift, and promises a rather unique mix of hospitality. The rooms are the same old holes, with a vivid sapphire blue livening up most walls. There’s printed floral upholstery on the sturdy

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Hotel Coorg International HOTEL $$$ (%228071; www.coorginternational.com; Convent Rd; s/d incl half-board from ₹3500/4500; as)

Madikeri’s classiest option boasts a clean pool, a casual bar, a good multicuisine restaurant, a health club and – most importantly – comfortable rooms with bright upholstery and large windows. Rates include fixed-menu breakfast and dinner and snacks through the day.

5 Eating

Coorg Cuisinette INDIAN $ (Main Rd; mains ₹70-90; hnoon-4pm & 6.30-10pm)

Climb two flights up a commercial building by the main road to feast on endless Kodava specialities at this eatery. Some unique local dishes, such as pandhi barthadh (pork dry fry) and kadambuttu (rice dumplings) can make your day at the first bite. Hotel Capitol INDIAN $ (School Rd; mains ₹70-90; h7am-9.30pm) Don’t

mind the shabby interiors – the locals certainly don’t. All they care about is the great food that comes out of its kitchen, including the flavourful and spicy pandhi (pork) curry, best had with a pint of cold beer.

Athithi SOUTH INDIAN $ (mains ₹30-50; h7am-10pm) Lap it all up like

a local at this busy pedestrian eatery, which serves a hot and tasty veg thali (₹45), followed by fruit salads, juices and shakes.

Popular Guru Prasad SOUTH INDIAN $ (Main Rd; mains ₹30-40; h7am-10pm) A hearty

range of vegie options, including a valuefor-money veg thali (₹40) and breakfast snacks are ever popular with diners here.

8 Information

A semi-functional KSTDC Oﬃce (%228580; near Raja’s Seat; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) oﬀers basic tourist information about the region. If you need to change money, try State Bank of India (%229959; College Rd; h10.30am5.30pm Mon-Fri). There’s an internet cafe on Kohinoor Rd, opposite Ayurjeevan.

8 Getting There & Away

Seven deluxe buses a day depart from the KSRTC bus stand for Bengaluru (₹355, six hours), stopping in Mysore (₹165, three hours) en route. Deluxe buses go to Mangalore (₹170, three hours, three daily), while frequent ordinary

SOUTHERN ARNATAK A 8 KO K ARNATAK AK & BENGALURU 8 DAG U (C O O R G) R EG I O N

Hotel Mayura Valley View HOTEL $$ (%228387; near Raja’s Seat; d incl breakfast from ₹1200; a) Despite being located out of town

beds, while the corridors outside have plastic creepers lining them. If kitsch is your thing, this might be your kind of place.

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buses head to Hassan (₹80, three hours) and Shimoga (₹175, eight hours).

8 Getting Around

Madikeri is a small town easy to negotiate on foot. For excursions around the region, several places rent out motorcycles for around ₹350 a day, with an initial refundable deposit of ₹500. Try Spice’s Mall (opposite KSRTC bus stand) or Coorg the Guide (Chethana Complex). Carry your driver’s licence, tank up on petrol and oﬀ you go! THE PLANTATIONS

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU S O U T H E R N K A R N ATA K A

Spread around Madikeri are Kodagu’s quaint and leafy spice and coﬀee plantations. Numerous estates here oﬀer homestays, ranging from basic to quite luxurious, while highend resorts have begun to spring up recently. The following are our pick of places within easy reach of Madikeri. Unless otherwise mentioned, rates include meals and trekking guides. Advance bookings should be made. Some options remain closed during the monsoons. Most arrange transport to/from Madikeri; enquire while booking.

oGreen Hills Estate

HERITAGE HOTEL $$

(%08274-254790; www.neemranahotels.com; Virajpet; r incl breakfast from ₹3000) Coorg’s vener-

able old lady, carrying a burden of heritage on its back. A quaint planter’s bungalow designed by a Swiss architect, this estate sits amid emerald plantations halfway between Madikeri and Kakkabe, with an air of nostalgia perpetually hanging heavy within its portals. Stacks of family memorabilia fill up its rosewood panelled interiors, and the rooms have quirky names such as Lord Jim and

SPICE OF LIFE If you have space in your bag, remember to pick up some local spices and natural produce from Madikeri’s main market. There’s a whole range of spices on oﬀer at the shops lining the streets, including vanilla, nutmeg, lemongrass, pepper and cardamom, as well as the unbranded aromatic coﬀee that comes in from plantations. Look out for fruit juices and squashes, homemade wines, bottles of fresh wild honey sourced from the forests and packets of readymade curry masala to flavour your dishes back home. Most items cost between ₹80 to ₹200.

Lady Madcap, supposedly named after racing thoroughbreds once owned by the planter’s family. Lunch and dinner are ₹350 each.

SRainforest Retreat

HOMESTAY $$

(%08272-265636; www.rainforestours.com; Galibeedu; s/d incl full board from ₹1500/2000) A

nature-soaked NGO and refuge located on an organic plantation, the Rainforest Retreat devotes itself to exploring organic and ecofriendly ways of life. Organic farming, sustainable agriculture and waste management are catchphrases here, and the hosts (who are a font of regional knowledge) can suﬃciently enlighten you about their progressive projects through your stay. Accommodation is in tents and eco-chic cottages with solar power. Activities include plantation tours, birdwatching and treks, among others. Golden Mist HOMESTAY $$ (%08272-265629; www.golden-mist.net; Galibeedu; per person incl full board from ₹1500) A

German-owned organic plantation, this is one of the nicest options near Madikeri town. Choose between its loft-style family cottage or individual rooms, and treat yourself to some fantastic rustic veg and nonveg food made from the farm’s organic produce. Similar in atmosphere to Rainforest Retreat, it oﬀers nature walks and plantation tours. Alath-Cad Estate Bungalow HOMESTAY $$ (%08274-252190; www.alathcadcoorg.com; Ammathi; d incl breakfast from ₹2300) A family

estate set on a 26-hectare coﬀee plantation 28km from Madikeri, this is another good place to yield to unadulterated nature. Activities include plantation tours, trekking, fishing, birdwatching and even cooking classes. Accommodation is in simple but snugly done-up cottages, and there’s a gracious family playing host. Kadkani HOTEL $$$ (%08274-254186; www.kadkani.com; Ammathi; d incl full board from ₹6500; as) An ultraluxu-

rious retreat nestled in a dale amid silent forests by the Cauvery River, Kadkani eﬀortlessly matches the best of modern comforts and rustic charm in its classy and plush ecocottages. An excellent place to unwind in style, with a 9-hole golf course and other activities such as river crossing, rafting and trekking thrown in. The evenings are reserved for listening to the cicadas.

KAKKABE % 08272

About 40km from Madikeri, the village of Kakkabe is an ideal base to plan an assault on Kodagu’s highest peak, Tadiyendamol. At the bottom of the summit, 3km from Kakkabe, is the picturesque Nalakunad Palace (admission free; h9am-5pm), the restored hunting lodge of a Kodagu king dating from 1794. Within walking distance are several excellent places to camp. Misty Woods (%238561; www.coorgmisty. com; cottages from ₹3500), immediately uphill

from Nalakunad Palace across a cascading waterfall, aptly complements the dreamy landscape that surrounds it. The tiled redbrick cottages adhering to vastu shastra (ancient science similar to Feng Shui) norms are both comfortable and stylish. Meals are extra. place 1250m above sea level where you can wake to a chirpy dawn and cool, fresh air. The owners’ friendliness, ecomindedness and scrumptious organic food make things even better. Advance bookings are essential. Regular buses run to Kakkabe from Madikeri (₹25, 1½ hours) and from Virajpet (₹18, one hour). DUBARE FOREST RESERVE

En route to Kushalnagar, Kodagu’s secondlargest town, is the Dubare Forest Reserve on the banks of the Cauvery River, where a team of elephants retired from forest department work live on pension. Cross the river (₹25) to participate in an elephant interaction program (Indian/foreigner ₹270/550;

h8.30-10.30am),

when you can bathe, feed and then ride the jumbos. Bookings can be made through Jungle

Lodges & Resorts Ltd (Map p844; %08025597944; www.junglelodges.com; Shrungar Shopping Complex, MG Rd, Bengaluru; h10am5.30pm Mon-Sat), which also runs the reserve’s rustic but good Dubare Elephant Camp (%9449599755; per person incl full board Indian/foreigner ₹2400/€70). Rates include the

elephant-interaction program.

White-water rafting (per person ₹400) is also run from here, over an 8km stretch that features rapids up to grade IV.

BYLAKUPPE % 08223

Tiny Bylakuppe, 5km southeast of Kushalnagar, was among the first refugee camps set up in South India to house thousands of Tibetans who fled from Tibet following the

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fice (%26474798, 26439745; 10B Ring Rd, Lajpat Nagar IV, New Delhi) for details. The area’s highlight is the Namdroling Monastery (www.palyul.org), home to the jawdroppingly spectacular Golden Temple (Padmasambhava Buddhist Vihara; h7am-8pm), presid-

ed over by an 18m-high gold-plated Buddha. The temple is at its dramatic best when school is in session and it rings out with gongs, drums and chanting of hundreds of young novices. You’re welcome to sit and meditate; look for the small blue guest cushions lying around. The Zangdogpalri Temple (h7am8pm), a similarly ornate aﬀair, is next door. Opposite the Golden Temple is a shopping centre, where you’ll find the simple Paljor

Dhargey Ling Guest House (%258686; pdguesthouse@yahoo.com; d from ₹280). In the same shopping centre is Shanti Family Restaurant (mains ₹50-70; h7am9.30pm), oﬀering a decent range of Indian

meals and Tibetan dishes such as momos (dumplings) and thukpa (noodle soup). Autorickshaws (shared/solo ₹10/50) ply to Bylakuppe from Kushalnagar. Buses frequently do the 34km run to Kushalnagar from Madikeri (₹30, 1½ hour) and Hassan (₹86, four hours). Most buses on the Mysore–Madikeri route stop at Kushalnagar.

KARNATAKA COAST Mangalore % 0824 / POP 539,300

Relaxed Mangalore sits at the estuaries of the picturesque Netravathi and Gurupur Rivers on the Arabian Sea coast. A major pit stop on international trade routes since the 6th century AD, it’s the largest city on Karnataka’s shoreline, and a nice place to break long-haul journeys along the western seaboard, or branch inland towards Bengaluru.

8 K ARNATAK A COAST & BENGALURU 8 A N G A LO R E M

Honey Valley Estate (%238339; www. honeyvalleyindia.in; d from ₹800) is a wonderful

1959 Chinese invasion. Comprising several clusters of settlements amid 1200 hectares of rolling sugarcane fields that rustle in the breeze, it has all the sights and sounds of a Tibetan colony, with resident maroon-andyellow-robed monks and locals selling Tibetan food and handicrafts. The atmosphere is heart-warmingly welcoming. The settlement is also home to much festivity during the Tibetan New Year celebrations. Foreigners are not allowed to stay overnight in Bylakuppe without a Protected Area Permit (PAP) from the Ministry of Home Affairs in Delhi. Contact the Tibet Bureau Of-

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1 Sights BEACH

The ace up Mangalore’s sleeve is serene Ullal Beach, a stretch of dazzling golden sands about an hour’s drive south of town. It’s best enjoyed from Summer Sands Beach Resort. An autorickshaw is ₹200 one way, or the frequent bus 44A (₹10) from the City bus stand will drop you right outside the gate.

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Once the main port of Hyder Ali’s kingdom, Mangalore now ships out a bulk of the region’s spice, coﬀee and cashew crops from the modern port, 10km north of the city. The city has a pleasant cosmopolitan air and, with a sprinkling of merry pubs and restaurants, makes for a relaxing stay. Mangalore is hilly, with winding, disorienting and frenzied streets. Luckily, most hotels and restaurants, the bus stand and the train station are centrally located. The KSRTC bus stand is 3km to the north. Ullal Beach

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St Aloysius College Chapel CHURCH (Lighthouse Hill; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon & 2-6pm Sun) Catholicism’s roots in Mangalore

date back to the arrival of the Portuguese in the early 1500s, and the city is liberally dotted with churches. One of the most impressive is the Sistine Chapel-like St Aloysius chapel, with its walls and ceilings painted with brilliant frescoes. Also worth checking out is the imposing Roman-style Milagres Church (Falnir Rd; h8.30am-6pm) in the city centre. Sultan’s Battery (Sultan Battery Rd; h6am-6pm) The only

FORT

remnant of Tipu Sultan’s fort is 4km from the city centre on the headland of the old port; bus 16 will get you there. Kadri Manjunatha Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Kadri; h6am-1pm & 4-8pm) This Kerala-style

temple houses a 1000-year-old bronze statue of Lokeshwara.

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Mangalore æ Sights 1 Kadri Manjunatha Temple .....................D1 2 Milagres Church .................................... C3 3 St Aloysius College Chapel................... C2 ÿ Sleeping 4 Hotel Manorama.................................... C3 5 Hotel Ocean Pearl.................................. C2 6 Hotel Poonja International.................... C3 7 Hotel Shaan Plaza ................................. C2 8 Hotel Srinivas......................................... C3 9 Nalapad Residency................................ C3 ú Eating 10 Cochin Bakery........................................ B4 Janatha Deluxe ............................... (see 7)

Nalapad Residency HOTEL $$ (%2424757; www.nalapad.com; Lighthouse Hill Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹900/1000; a) The best

midrange option in Mangalore comes with spruce rooms featuring floor-to-ceiling windows and heavy red curtains. The rooftop restaurant, Kadal, spices up your stay. Ask for a fifth- or sixth-floor room with brilliant sea views.

Hotel Ocean Pearl HOTEL $$ (%2413800; www.theoceanpearl.in; Navabharath Circle; s/d from ₹3000/3600; aW) This brand-

new designer hotel is clearly the talk of the town, with mint-fresh rooms featuring all the usual creature comforts paraded by business hotels. It’s quite a steal for the price, but tariﬀs may go up once the inaugural oﬀers draw to a close. Summer Sands Beach Resort HOTEL $$$ (%2467690; www.summersands.in; d from ₹5000; as) Set amid palm groves on a remote

patch along Ullal Beach, Summer Sands offers a series of ethno-chic bungalows done up in earth and floral shades, and is the ideal place for a quiet retreat. Memories of Joanna, its restaurant, has pastoral decor and an excellent menu. The resort can arrange sightseeing tours on request. Hotel Poonja International HOTEL $ (%2440171; www.hotelpoonjainternational.com; KS Rao Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹900/1000; a) This

well-managed place has faux creepers and

û ü Drinking 13 Café Coffee Day .....................................D3 14 Liquid Lounge .........................................C3 Transport 15 City Bus Stand........................................B4 16 Indian Airlines......................................... B1 17 Jet Airways .............................................C2 18 KSRTC Bus Stand .................................. C1 19 Private Bus Company Offices ...............C3 20 Private Bus Stand ..................................B4

sunflowers lining its lobby, and the rooms (a whopping 154 of them) are well-appointed though low on frills. There’s a multicuisine restaurant with a decent selection of Continental dishes. Hotel Srinivas HOTEL $ (%2440061; www.srinivashotel.com; GHS Rd; s/d from ₹550/700; a) It’s centrally located

and reasonably clean. There’s an expo hall downstairs, which often organises sales (shoes, shirts and everything in between) at bumper discounts. Hotel Shaan Plaza HOTEL $ (%2440313; KS Rao Rd, s/d from ₹500/600; a)

Piped music and TVs are standard features in the well-maintained rooms at this budget address.

Hotel Manorama HOTEL $ (%2440306; KS Rao Rd; s/d from ₹400/600; a)

A decent, centrally-located budget option, with clean and good-value rooms.

5 Eating & Drinking While in town, sample some Mangalorean delights such as kane (ladyfish) served in a spicy coconut curry, or the scrumptious deep-fried prawn rawa fry. Kadal SOUTH INDIAN $$ (Nalapad Residency, Lighthouse Hill Rd; mains ₹150220) This high-rise restaurant has elegant and

warmly lit interiors, with sweeping views all around. Try the spicy chicken varval (a coastal curry) or the yummy prawn ghee roast. Also enquire about the day’s seafood specials.

S L E E P I NM K ARNATAK A COAST & BENGALURU SGLAENEGPAI NLO GRE

4 Sleeping

Kadal ............................................... (see 9) 11 Lalith Bar & Restaurant .........................C3 12 Pallkhi......................................................D3

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Lalith Bar & Restaurant SEAFOOD $$ (Balmatta Rd; mains ₹80-150) Unwind in the

Lalith’s cool, subterranean interior and pair a chilled beer with prawns, crab or kingfish from its extensive menu. The day’s special seafood is usually the best bet.

Liquid Lounge PUB $$ (%4255175; Balmatta Rd; h7-11.30pm) A stiﬀ

Jack and Coke or the good old bottle of Corona, this trendy (and loud) pub has it all. With funky posters and neon-lit interiors upping its cool quotient, it’s a great place to get happily drunk.

Janatha Deluxe SOUTH INDIAN (Hotel Shaan Plaza, mains ₹50-70; h7am-11pm)

This local favourite serves a great veg thali (₹50) and a range of North and South Indian veg dishes.

K ARNATAK A & BENGALURU K A R N ATA K A C OA S T

Pallkhi SEAFOOD $$ (3rd fl, Tej Towers, Balmatta Rd; mains ₹140-170)

A relatively smart and easygoing place, with stylish interiors and a formidable reputation for its coastal dishes.

Cochin Bakery BAKERY (AB Shetty Circle; cakes ₹20-30; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat) An old-time place that works up

Café Coffee Day CAFE (Balmatta Rd; h9.30am-11pm) A range of

Train The main train station is south of the city centre. The 12.20am Netravati Express stops at Margao in Goa (sleeper/2AC ₹194/702, 5½ hours), and continues to Mumbai (sleeper/2AC ₹361/1348, 15 hours). The 6.15pm Malabar Express heads to Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum; sleeper/2AC ₹257/941, 15 hours). The 9.30pm West Coast Express heads to Chennai (sleeper/2AC ₹317/1184, 18 hours). Several Konkan Railway trains (to Mumbai, Margao, Ernakulam or Trivandrum) use Kankanadi train station, 5km east of Mangalore.

8 Getting Around

delicious puffs and cakes.

good coffees and teas on offer, along with some tasty quick bites.

8 Information

State Bank of Mysore, Royal Bank of Scotland and ICICI Bank have ATMs on Balmatta Rd, Lighthouse Hill Rd and GHS Rd respectively. Cyber Soft (Lighthouse Hill Rd; per hr ₹20; h10am-8pm) Fast internet access. KSTDC tourist office (%2453926; Lalbagh Circle; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Pretty useless. Trade Wings (%2427225; Lighthouse Hill Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Travel agency. Changes travellers cheques.

8 Getting There & Away

Bus The KSRTC bus stand is on Bejai Main Rd, 3km from the city centre; an autorickshaw there costs about ₹40. Several deluxe buses depart daily to Bengaluru (₹495, nine hours), via Madikeri (₹190, five hours) and Mysore (₹350, seven hours). Semideluxe buses go to Hassan (₹175, five hours). A 10.30pm deluxe bus heads to Panaji (₹399, seven hours). From opposite the City bus stand, private buses connect Udupi, Dharmasthala and Jog Falls. Tickets can be purchased at oﬃces near Falnir Rd. Roads around Mangalore are pothole hells, and journeys can be rough on the bum. Private bus drivers have a morbid fascination with speeding.

Air The airport is precariously perched atop a plateau in Bajpe, about 20km northeast of town. Indian Airlines (%2496809; Hathill Rd) and Jet Airways (%2441181; Ram Bhavan Complex, KS Rao Rd) both operate daily flights to Mumbai (1½ hours). Jet Airways also flies daily to Bengaluru (one hour).

To get to the airport, take buses 47B or 47C from the City bus stand, or catch a taxi (₹400). The City bus stand is opposite the State Bank of India. Flag fall for autorickshaws is ₹15, and ₹11 per kilometre thereafter. For late-night travel, add 50%. An autorickshaw to Kankanadi station costs around ₹60, or take bus 9 or 11B.

Dharmasthala Inland from Mangalore are a string of Jain temple towns, such as Venur, Mudabidri and Karkal. The most interesting among them is Dharmasthala, 75km east of Mangalore by the Netravathi River. Some 10,000 pilgrims pass through this town every day. During holidays and major festivals such as Lakshadeepotsava, the footfall can go up tenfold. The Manjunatha Temple (h6.30am-2pm & 5-9pm) is Dharmasthala’s main shrine, devoted to the Hindu lord Shiva. Men have to enter bare-chested, with legs covered. Simple free meals are available in the temple’s kitchen (h11.30am-2.15pm & 7.30-10pm), attached to a hall that can seat up to 3000. Associated sights in town include the 12m-high statue of Bahubali at Ratnagiri Hill, and the Manjusha Museum (admission