2018 Spring Quest Magazine by Ker & Downey

T H E T R AV E L O G

ASIA

AFRICA

EUROPE

L AT I N A M E R I C A

NORTH AMERICA

S O U T H PAC I F I C

MIDDLE EAST

W H Y T R AV E L W I T H K E R & D OW N E Y The heart of the matter when traveling with Ker & Downey is more than just travel in the form of luxury and style: it’s all about those little ineffable moments, beholding the beauty of the world the way you always imagined. These experiential moments—a breath of fresh mountain air, the rush of adrenaline, the peace of a calm beach, the taste of a new cuisine— whatever it may be for you, you’ll know it when you experience it. And it comes standard on every Ker & Downey journey.

K E R & DOW N E Y

TA K I N G A I R TO N E W H E I G H T S When reserving your custom land arrangements with Ker & Downey, please ask about our incredible airfare rates. Our experts partner with the best to ensure a comfortable and luxurious journey in transit. Forget the hassles: obtain premium seating at great rates, accrue mileage where available, and get the peace of mind of lenient cancellation policies.

CARRIERS AIR FRANCE A L I TA L I A AMERICAN AIRLINES B R I T I S H A I R WAYS C AT H AY PAC I F I C D E LTA E M I R AT E S KLM L ATA M A I R L I N E S Q ATA R A I R WAYS R OYA L A I R M A R O C S O U T H A F R I C A N A I R WAYS SINGAPORE AIRLINES T U R K I S H A I R WAYS V I R G I N AT L A N T I C V I R G I N AU S T R A L I A

British Airways KE R & DOWN E Y

A LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT

“The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun.” - Jon Krakauer, Into the Wild Ker & Downey is made up of dozens of unique individuals who each bring value and different perspectives to our company. The one thing that ties us all together is our passion for travel and adventure. We believe that the best way to learn about a destination is through on-the-ground experiences. That’s why in 2017 alone, our luxury travel experts spent a combined 273 nights abroad in 27 different countries, gathering knowledge and furthering their expertise on their destinations. In this issue of Quest Magazine, they are sharing stories from their travels: Nicole Porto sampled Malta’s culinary scene; Catherine Brown went west in search of North America’s unique wildlife; Lisa Sun curated a guide for visiting the high-altitude desert of Ladakh, India; and, Nicky Brandon returned to her roots to retrace her childhood safaris in Tanzania. Contributor and photographer Austin Mann headed to Antarctica with his wife Esther Havens Mann for a truly adventurous honeymoon and kept a stunning travel diary. You’ll also read about the safari properties giving Mother Nature a helping hand with their conservation projects. On a sad note, one of these iconic pioneers, Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya, experienced a loss that was, in fact, a monumental loss for the planet. On March 19, 2018, 45-year-old Sudan, the last male Northern White Rhino on earth, was put to sleep in order to avoid prolonging his suffering from age-related complications. Ker & Downey’s Michelle Nicholson had a chance to see him on her trip to Kenya in February. “On the one hand it is such an emotional experience to know I have witnessed an extinction of a species,” she says. “On the other, it was an honor to have met him.” Hopes for preserving the species via the two remaining females (Sudan’s daughter and granddaughter) now depend on developing, scientific technologies. We’re not giving up hope and neither should you. There’s never been a better time to get involved in conservation and traveling has the power to help. And in the spirit of adventure and chasing the changing horizon, my wife and I are preparing to head to Egypt and Jordan with a group of friends in a few weeks. I look forward to sharing that adventure with you. What horizon will you encounter this year? Let us know by emailing: luxury@kerdowney.com

David Marek President

K E R & DOW N E Y

WHAT'S NEW

THE LATEST TRAVELS AND EXPERIENCES FROM OUR LUXURY TRAVEL EXPERTS

STE P HA N IE CLICK

A MY W IL L IS

Where were you last? Beijing, Xi’an, Guilin, Xianyang and Shanghai

Where were you last? The Amazon, Peru

What was your most amazing experience? Climbing the Great Wall. The magnitude of this piece of history is unbelievable. It was breathtaking and emotional to think of all that went into building this piece of architecture centuries ago. What would you recommend from your trip? The Great Wall and the Terra Cotta Warriors are must-dos. In China, there is history around every corner, so you can’t go wrong. Any other tips for travelers? To share photos and updates with friends back home, while traveling in China, download a VPN prior to departure in the United States.

What was your most amazing experience? Searching for caimans on the river at night during a downpour. It was an adrenaline-pumping rush. What would you recommend from your trip? Skip sleeping in and go on the optional sunrise birding excursion. The peacefulness of the river first thing in the morning is a rare treat. Any other tips for travelers? Many of Ker & Downey's preferred Amazon cruise vessels have donation supplies that can be pre-purchased for the community visit, or feel free to bring products listed on their site.

HOT TOPIC: PLAN AHEAD OF T H E PA C K

If Africa is on your radar, beat the seasonal rush and book well in advance. Here are five of our fall travel favorites.

T H E B E S T OF N OV E MB E R Africa is wild and wonderful year-round, overflowing with the sights and sounds of majestic animals. Kenya is less crowded in November, making it the perfect time to spot migrating birds and game. Further south, the summer season is in full swing in Botswana where big cats prowl and leopards lounge in shady trees. Storm clouds and wildebeests rumble through Tanzania’s Serengeti. Visitor numbers are low, making it easier to spot wildlife.

C OA S TA L C OOL In the fall, head off the coast to the island of Madagascar to see adorable baby lemurs in Andasibe National Park. Under the sea, a glorious and very colorful world awaits on a snorkeling trip, banishing all thoughts of the cold and dreary weather back home. Splash in the surf on South Africa’s Boulders Beach and if you are lucky, spot a Southern right whale as it migrates to the chillier depths of Antarctica. A mother lion on a stroll with her cub.

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CONTENTS

GIVING BACK Travel that gives back across the globe

10 ARRIVALS

84 JOURNEYS Top itineraries from Ker & Downey

Openings, revamps and the latest travel news

16 THE GUIDE Insider secrets of luxury travel

THE SHOT One memory captured by photographer Jonas Jungblut

pg. 85

85-86

CULTURAL JOURNEYS

EXTRAORDINARY ENCOUNTERS

LUXURY SAFARI

DESTINATIONS 22 EA ST AFRICA

28 SOUTHERN AFRICA

36 NORTH AFRICA & MIDDLE EA ST

42 A SIA

50 NORTH AMERICA

56 LATIN AMERICA

64 EUROPE NORTHERN & WESTERN

72 EUROPE

FEATURES 24 RETURN TO TANZANIA

30 THE GOOD TRIP KENYA, BOTSWANA, SOUTH AFRICA, NAMIBIA

38 CITY OF GOLD DUBAI

44 MOUNTAIN HIGH LADAKH

52 WAY OUT WEST WYOMING

58 DUE SOUTH ANTARCTICA

E DI TO R I N CHI EF M A RT I N E B U RY CO PY E DI TO RS K AT Y H E E R S S E N A R T D I R E CT I O N & DESI GN AMY WILLIS CO N TR I B U TO RS E D I TO RS N IC K Y B R A N D ON DAV I D M A R E K W RI T ERS HALEY BEHAM M A RT I N E B U RY R I N A C H A N DA R A N A ELIZABETH FRELS K AT Y H E E R S S E N E S T H E R H AV E N S M A N N AU S T I N M A N N P H OTO G R A PHERS E S T H E R H AV E N S M A N N AU S T I N M A N N B H A R AT H M OH A N

LETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CONNECT O N TH E WEB

66 THE ARTIST'S WAY LONDON & PARIS

kerdowney.com questkerdowney.com

FAC E B O O K facebook.com/ KerandDowney

74 A TASTE OF MALTA

TW I TT ER/ I N STAGRAM @kerdowney

EA STERN & SOUTHERN

PHO NE

78 SOUTH PACIFIC ON THE COVER: A village walk in Ladakh with the Ultimate Travelling Camp

80 FOODIE'S PARADISE BAROSSA VALLEY

800.423.4236 +1.281.371.2500

E M AI L luxury@kerdowney.com

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GIVING BACK When you travel with Ker & Downey, you become a force for good across the globe. These are some of the initiatives and partnerships weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re proud to support.

B OTSWA N A CA MB ODI A ECUA DOR SOUTH A FR I CA EAST A FR I CA

CAMBODIA A portion of every custom Cambodia journey goes to ABOUTAsia, an organization that provides school supplies and English classes to over 50,000 children who have benefited from these life-changing programs.

B OT SWA N A Ker & Downey continues to be a long-time supporter of Rhinos Without Borders. This group has successfully relocated 77 out of their goal of 100 rhinos to the wilds of Botswana from South Africa, where they are in danger from poaching.

K E R & DOW N E Y

Photos courtesy of Great Plains Foundation Rhinos Without Border, David Murray | Grootbos Private Nature Reserve | Austin Mann | Hacienda Zuleta | David Marek

EAST AFRICA

W I L DA I D

Ker & Downey continues to provide thousands of Ugandans with malaria nets and medical care through Nets for Africa. Our company matches the donation for every net purchased, helping us stop the sting of mosquito bites.

Ker & Downeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Michelle Nicholson attended the WildAid Gala in California where $2.9 million was raised to support their mission of ending the illegal wildlife trade. Our Highlights of Peru journey contributed $26,000 in the live auction. Ker & Downey proudly supports WildAid as a travel partner and a sponsor of stateside events.

SOUTH AFRICA

E C UA D O R

The Grootbos Private Nature Reserveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foundation positively impacts local communities through training and development programs that improve the natural environment and living conditions for local residents. Grootbos Foundation will plant a tree for every client who travels to South Africa. To learn more about other African conservation properties, see page 30.

Our clients traveling to South America support the Galo Plaza Lasso Foundation. School supplies, uniforms, a library and summer camps are provided to local children, while other programs work to improve the overall living standards of the surrounding communities.

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ARRIVALS

Open in g s , Revamps, a nd th e L a test Tra v el News

E L C AREYE S C LUB & RE S IDE N C E S, ME X I C O On Mexicoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Costa Alegre, Costa Careyes is a verdant swath of land and sea framed by golden beaches and dramatic cliffs topped with lavish, jewel-toned villas. Nestled in a biosphere preserve that is home to iguanas, dolphins and elusive jaguars, the eco resort-meets-eccentric-playground for the rich and famous was founded in the late 1960s by a former Italian banker. It also boasts world-class polo grounds, a turtle sanctuary and every level of accommodation including casitas, bungalows and Ocean Castles. Careyesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; resident hotel has been refashioned into the elegant, contemporary El Careyes Club & Residences, offering new digs from which to launch your hiking, horseback riding, golfing or seafaring fun. BY MARTINE BURY AND RINA CHANDARANA 10

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QOR OKW E C A M P, BOTSWANA

Photos courtesy of El Careyes Club & Residences | Qorokwe Camp | Isla Palenque | The Fingal Royal Yacht Britannia

Wilderness Safaris’ recently-opened Qorokwe Camp sits in Botswana’s Okavango Delta region. Eight elegant suites — complete with indoor and outdoor showers, handmade African furnishings and pops of brass — give way to sprawling woodlands, floodplains, swamps and savannahs. The on-property bar overlooks a large deep-blue lagoon frequented by hippos, elephants and many more frolicking animals in this game-heavy area.

I S L A PA L E N Q U E, PA N A MA This June, look no further than Isla Palenque if you’re in search of paradise. Set on a private Pacific coast island shouldered by lush, monkey-filled jungles, get lost in a six-bedroom villa that offers fresh meals in calm sanctuary awash in neutral colors. Or stay in one of the eight individual casitas with space for four guests. Sustainability is at the forefront of every detail, including reclaimed wood furnishings and meals brimming with local ingredients. Take a stroll in the surf on one of the seven secluded, palm-fringed beaches and visit the national marine park for snorkeling.

THE FI N GA L RO YAL YAC H T BRI TANNI A, E DI N B URG H, SC OTLAN D 2018 will see the launch of a refurbished 1964 Northern Lighthouse Board ship, making its lavish debut as a floating luxury hotel to be docked in the port of Leith, neighboring Queen Elizabeth’s Royal Yacht Britannia. Take your pick of 23 swanky cabins named after local lighthouses and finished in Art Deco style. Or look out to the horizon: original portholes are maintained to give guests the feeling that the boat is still sailing the seven seas.

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ARRIVALS

BOR G O S A N TO PIETRO, ITALY At once a feat of minimalism and exquisitely-layered Italian luxe, Borgo Santo Pietro has added drama to the Tuscan landscape like a de Chirico painting come to life. Since opening in 2008, the lovingly restored medieval village has grown from six villas to 20, all the while remaining an ultra-secluded and exclusive retreat. Just unveiled, four new suites (two with private pools) are tucked into cloistered gardens and draped in sumptuous interior touches like Fortuny silks, bathtubs carved from single slabs of Travertine, hand-hewn bedframes and cozy fireplaces. The property also has a new, floating outpost: Satori, a luxury sailing yacht that is outfitted for ultimate comfort and romance with artisan-made furnishings inspired by Europe’s maritime history, a 200-bottle wine cellar and candles that light the way aboard the vessel at night.

INIALA HARBOUR HOUSE, VALLETA, MALTA Valleta was recently named the European Capital of Culture for 2018. Soon, the already trending Mediterranean capital will get an opulent harbor-side hideaway that’s sure to make a statement. Designed by Istanbul’s innovative Autoban studio, Iniala Harbour House promises to shine in this UNESCO-listed treasure trove. Historical details are beautifully preserved in the sleek and stylish palazzos, bursting with patterned wallpaper and furnishings. It’s a fresh homebase from which to take in the treasures of the island — whether that’s deep-sea diving with a famed underwater photographer, walking among sun-bleached ruins or soaking up local life over a long café lunch.

T HE RIT Z- C ARLTON, SANT IAG O, C HILE On the heels of an exuberant refresh, The Ritz-Carlton’s sophisticated South American outpost delivers updated interiors, furnishings, fixtures, technology and bathrooms. It's the perfect launching point for exploring the affluent El Golf district, known for its towering skyscrapers and wide range of restaurants. Unwind with a facial or massage in the serene, glass-framed spa, which overlooks the city’s rooftops and striking skyline. 12

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SHI N TA MAN I W I LD, CA MBODI A

The wilds of Cambodia will welcome a new luxury camp in September. Surrounded by tropical forests, mountains, rivers and waterfalls Shinta Mani promises adventure. Hop onto a private expedition boat in search of elephants, bears and tigers. Sample mouthwatering food and drinks at the bar and restaurant perched next to a crashing waterfall.

TAA SA PRIVATE RESERV E, TANZ ANI A Coming soon, the TAASA Private Reserveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s luxurious tents boast verandahs that overlook the wide plains and big skys of the Lobo Valley. En-suite baths provide a touch of indulgence with soaking tubs and sumptuous robes. Cool off in the infinity pool after a day of exploring. Enjoy fine dining under the stars by a warm fire after a night drive into the inky darkness in search of the Serengetiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nocturnal creatures.

DIN A K A, B OT SWANA Hugging the edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Dinaka camp offers seven safari tents each with an indoor and outdoor shower, minimalist interiors and plush bedding. Grab a front row seat on the raised wooden decks for beautiful views of the watering hole. Giraffes, lions, leopards, brown hyenas and close to 200 types of birds make up the colorful cast of characters in this ever-changing landscape. Sleep on the outdoor deck, under a blanket of twinkling stars or gather around the fire to share stories of the day.

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ARRIVALS Photos courtesy of Austin Mann | One&Only Nyungwe House | Bisate Lodge

HOTSPOT:

R WAN D A By Rina Chandarana

Landlocked Rwanda might be small in size, but it is big on wildlife, rolling green hills and welcoming people. Add to that the chance to bear witness to history as the country rapidly forges ahead on a new path, while embracing and honoring its painful past. Journeys to Rwanda have even deeper significance.

Get up close to gorillas in Rwanda

G O F OR THE GORI LLA S Dubbed the land of a thousand hills, Rwanda's fertile landscape is dotted with farms and soaring jungle-covered mountains that are home to a wide array of primates. Half of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gorillas reside in Volcanoes National Park. Famously, world-renowned researcher Dian Fossey studied these magnificent creatures here, inspiring generations of travelers. Undoubtedly the most popular park in Rwanda, it remains a draw for adventure-seekers wanting to spot baby gorillas around the breathtaking Virunga Volcanoes. Make the trip in the wet season when the gorillas are found on lower elevations, making treks easier. Look up when you can â&#x20AC;&#x201D; golden monkeys also live in the park, munching on bamboo and performing leaping air acrobatics from tree to tree. See it all from Bisate Lodge, located within an extinct volcano valley. Villas are thatch-covered and large windows bring in unrivaled views of the mountain habitat. Emerald green chandeliers mimic the leafy forests and fresh meals are prepared with produce plucked straight from the on-site garden. 14

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A birdseye view of One&Only Nyungwe House

A sprawling look at the expansive Lake Kivu

FIN D MORE GREE N S PACE

SEE H I S TO R Y I N T H E M A K I N G

On the other side of the country, Akagera National Park is a symbol of successful conservation efforts. The wildlife population was reduced by half after the Rwandan Civil War, but since then, the government has implemented strict laws to preserve this savannah landscape laced with swamps, forests and jagged mountains. And what an achievement it has been. A colorful troupe of characters makes the wildlife viewing top notch. Strolling elephants, herds of buffalo, massive hippos, curious monkeys and baboons are all part of nature's parade.

Kigali is considered a safe and clean capital city, far removed from the tragedy of the 1990s. Today its winding boulevards, flowering trees and bustling eateries are a beacon of hope for an evolving nation. A visit to the Genocide Memorial Center pays homage to the nearly one million who lost their lives. It’s a past that is laid bare, so as not to be repeated, and it's solemn, chilling reminder of how far the country has come.

Still, Rwanda’s shining stars will always be the primates. Travelers will love identifying one of the 14 species — and some 25 percent of Africa’s primate species — found in the mist-laden Nyungwe Forest National Park. Colorful birds fly through the lofty foliage and butterflies flutter, their iridescent wings shimmering in the sunlight. The dense and lush area is one of those rare places that feels incredibly remote and untouched by humans.

Sip on a cup of local Rwandan coffee grown in the fertile plantations, where the locals demonstrate how the bold and strong flavor is softened by milk and sugar. Rwanda's people want to share their progress and natural treasures with the rest of the world. Get a further sense of this burgeoning generation of openness during a school visit, arranged by Ker & Downey. The enthusiasm of the children echoes the hopeful feeling of modern Africa.

Nyungwe House, a partner hotel of One&Onlyis the perfect outpost for this African adventure. Nestled between a working tea plantation and rainforest, the 22-room and suites property boasts delicious cuisine and awe-inspiring views from private decks. Immaculate interiors are inspired by Rwandan crafts. In the middle of the country, Lake Kivu shines. Row to the middle and feel embraced by the green, terraced tea plantations rising over its shores. Fisherman sing as the sun sets on the glistening waters. From this vantage, Rwanda is magical.

PRO TIP!

Village visits in Rwanda with Bistate Lodge

Bring a canvas shoe bag to store dirty hiking shoes. - Cherie Tann, Luxury Travel Expert KE R & DOWN E Y

THE GUIDE Ins ider S ecrets of L ux ury Tra v el

BY MA RTI N E B U RY 16

K E R & DOW N E Y

T HE ESSENTIAL

S AFARI PA CKING L IST Long gone are the days are of busy utility jackets and overly kitted-out camera equipment on safari. Besides the nearly-universal 27- to 33-pound luggage weight restriction, there are plenty of reasons to keep it simple. Pack light (in soft luggage). Think layers. Wear neutral-colored clothing that wicks moisture and adapts to temperature shifts. Bring essentials such as medications, health certificates and ID. In most cases, you’ll be happier if you bring the best camera you know how to use.

Photos courtesy of Greystoke Mahale, Andrew Marinkovich | Ex Officio

Many of today’s luxury camps stock a lot of extras — from hats and reusable water bottles to binoculars and backpacks for day outings. Laundry service is provided daily, so a few changes of clothes will do. If you’re a photo buff, you might consider a photo safari or a lodge that loans guests high-end cameras. The fact is, you’ll want very little. So be sure to ask your Ker & Downey Luxury Travel Expert what’s on offer at camp. Here’s our list of the essentials.

C LOT H I N G

TO I L E T R I E S

TECH SUPPORT

Avoid white clothes, busy patterns, camouflage prints and loud colors. Your wardrobe should blend in with the landscape and vegetation. Go for technical fabrics that adapt to your body’s heating and cooling systems.

Most camps stock things like sunscreen, insect repellent, lip balm and first-aid kits. Still, you should bring a pareddown kit with your personal selection of these items.

Extra camera batteries

Aspirin

Reading materials

2 pairs of lightweight pants

Allergy medications

Luggage locks

2 long sleeved shirts

Antiseptic cream or hydrocortisone

Small, bright flashlight

3 short sleeved or cotton tee shirts

Sunscreen

2 shorts or cargo shorts (depending

Lip balm with SPF

L E AV E B E H I N D

on the season)

Skin moisturizer

Valuable jewelry

1 swimsuit (cover-up is optional but

Bandages

Black camera bags

smart, like a sarong)

Hand wipes or similar

1 lightweight jacket

Eye and nose drops

Anything you think you might need

1 hooded sweatshirt (for layering)

Hair brush

1 pair pajamas

Shaving kit

1 pair hiking shoes (Break them in before traveling!)

Toothbrush, toothpaste and dental floss

1 pair of comfy shoes for evening

Insect repellent with DEET

1 pair sandals or flip-flops 5 pairs undergarments 5 pairs socks 1 scarf or bandana 1 packable, wide-brimmed hat 1 pair sunglasses

ONE STOP SHOP: EX OFFICIO Try one of our go-to sites for attractive, modern, travel-specific clothing and accessories, from insect-repellent bandanas to UV protective hats. It’s perfect for one or two supplemental pieces, like convertible pants, that will help you travel lighter.

Adaptors

LITTLE LUXURIES Journal and pen

Ex Officio Bugs Away Sandfly Jacket

S T UFF W E L IKE Keep your safari gear simple.

A roomy carryall with a sturdy, separate compartment for muddy or dusty shoes. Lo & Sons Catalina Deluxe Tote in Forrest Green $118 | www.loandsons.com

The un-messy, multitasking bar soap that works for washing hair, skin and undergarments. Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Soap | $5

Lightweight and weatherproof — the new standard. Best Made Company Large Bonded Canvas Duffle | $228 www.bestmadeco.com

Designed for photographers, the feather-light backpack is configured with compartments for easy access. Peak Design Everyday Backpack in Ash | $260 | www.peakdesign.com

Long-haul flights and lazy vacation days are a great time to catch up on inspiration without adding the weight of books and magazines. Just download and go.

T R AV E LO G U E For critical tips, far-flung tales, seasonal guides and destination overviews, Conde Nast’s podcast engages leading experts and storytellers to inspire you before, during and after your journey.

T H E T R AV E L E R S Bose QuietComfort 35 wireless headphones II

K ER & D OW N E Y

This is a virtual trip, full of stories of wonder and discovery as well as the ups, downs and profound insights of a traveler’s life on the road.

THIS AMERICAN L I F E , T H E M OT H , R E V I S I O N I S T H I S TO R Y Many classic NPR favorites and pods from the world’s most influential columnists and writers — like Malcolm Gladwell’s “Revisionist History” and The New York Times' “Modern Love” — are available for listening offline.

AMAZON’S AUDIBLE OK, it’s not a podcast, but it is the standard-bearer for audiobooks. Hear the novels, poems and biographies you’ve been meaning to get to on your next trip.

Photos courtesy of Peak Design | Lo & Sons | Best Made Company | Dr. Bronner | Bose

OU R FAV OR IT E P OD C A ST S F OR T R AV E L E R S

SU M M E R IS CA L L IN G They say life is a beach. But it’s so much more than that — especially in the longest season. Choose an adventure that delivers you to surf and sand or someplace wild. Make it epic and stay awhile. Here’s some inspiration for your new summer spot. Unplug in the Maldives and turn up simple beach days in a place that feels like your own private island. As the crowd heads east, live safari dreams in Zambia, where wildlife converges around a mighty river. Or blaze a path on the ultimate road trip in Montana along Glacier National Park’s magnificent, 50-mile Going-to-the-Sun Road.

Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru

FA ST TRA C K

There are an increasing number of options to get you through airport security quickly and stress-free. You might need one, or all of them, depending on your frequency of travel.

TSA PRECHECK

G LO B A L E N T R Y

CLEAR

A designation on your boarding pass that whisks you through an alternate security line and the security checkpoint without having to take off your shoes, belt or jacket, or take out your laptop and 3-1-1 liquids for screening.

Ideal for frequent international travelers, Global Entry includes TSA Precheck and cuts down immigration and customs processing time when you return the U.S. or arrive at one of the 50+ international airports that accept Global Entry. Skip the long, serpentine line, go straight to the Global Entry kiosk and you’re out of the airport in no time.

Perfect for business travelers who want to get from ticketing to the gate in 10 minutes or less, this non-government option works in partnership with airport authorities. Travelers in the program are escorted to a dedicated screening lane that skips all the other lines, including TSA Precheck and Global Entry. At the screening point, you will still need Precheck to get through without removing shoes or unpacking electronics. Enrollment is easy, too.

Investment: $85 every 5 years and a quick interview.

Investment: $100 for 5 years and a somewhat lengthy enrollment process and interview.

Investment: $179 annually

KE R & DOWN E Y

Greystoke Mahale sits on a private beach

NE X T STOP: LIVING LEGEND It’s worth going way off the beaten path to Tanzania’s far-flung wilderness. By Katy Heerssen

Dropped between the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika and the forested lowlands of the Mahale Mountains, the thatched paradise of Greystoke Mahale is a vision in wild safari luxury. Rewards abound for those who are intrepid enough to make the extended journey by plane and by boat.

HIKE CHIMP COUNTRY The name “Greystoke” comes from Lord Greystoke, the fictional character also known as Tarzan. The lord of the apes would find himself quite at home here, on the doorstep of the largest known population of habituated wild chimpanzees in the world. Their numbers are astounding — some 1,000 in all — but they are always on the move. Witnessing their treetop antics on your first trek is extremely rewarding; hikes can last from a relaxed 20 minutes to more intense journeys up to three hours. The chimps chill out lower in the mountains from August through September, so plan your trip during that time of year for an easier trek.

L I V E T H E LO D G E L I F E

G O B A C K TO N AT U R E With the mountains behind and the lake in front, you’re always surrounded by wild and wonderful activity. Catch and release tilapia fishing is permitted within Mahale Mountains National Park and it’s a relaxing way to spend your afternoons post-chimp trek. Cruise along the shore to spot a variety of birds including redcapped robin chats, African crowned eagles, harrier hawks and crested guinea fowls. The white beaches are peaceful, and the waters clear and inviting, but it’s easy to forget that crocodiles lurk just off shore. Guides will boat you out to deep water if you feel compelled to take a dip. 20

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IT’S A LONG JOURNEY THAT IS ABSOLUTELY WORTH IT FOR THAT FIRST VIEW OF THE LODGE ON ITS PRIVATE BEACH. G E T FA R O U T If you’re craving an untouched African experience that exists in legend, set your sights on Greystoke Mahale. The flight from Arusha takes some five hours, then the traditional dhow ride across the lake adds another hour. It’s a long journey that is absolutely worth it for that first view of the lodge on its private beach. Flights are infrequent, so plan to spend at least three days here — after such an eventful trek, you’ll want to settle down and to soak it all in. Greystoke Mahale is open seasonally, from June through mid-March. Pair a visit to the chimpanzees of Greystoke Mahale with primate trekking in Rwanda and Uganda. Read more about the Ker & Downey Primate Safari on page 88 or visit www.kerdowney.com.

Photos courtesy of Greystoke Mahale, Andrew Marinkovich

The rustic theme of your getaway is set upon first glance. The gathering point at the main lodge, modeled after a Tongwe chief’s hut, features a dramatic swooping thatch roof topping off an open-sided lounge and dining area. Each of the six double-story thatch bandas continues the elements of local forest whimsy. Native woods and bamboo mingle with breezy mosquito nets, wood from retired ships has been repurposed for custom furnishings and decking and water for the en suite bathroom is heated on demand.

DESTINATIONS T he Wor l d of Ker & Downey

Yosemite National Park, California

KE R & DOWN E Y

EAST

AFRICA

ETHIOPIA

REPUBLIC OF

TA N Z A N I A

K E N YA

CONGO

U G A N DA

M A DAG AS C A R

R WA N D A

MAURITIUS

S E YC H E L L E S

TA N Z A N I A Explore Stone Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Zanzibar where European, Indian and Arab architectural styles mix.

R WA N DA Trek through breathtaking green hills in search of mountain gorillas.

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TA N Z A N I A Explore the forested Mahale Mountains, home to the world's largest population of chimpanzees.

U G A N DA

Photos courtesy of iStock | Bisate Lodge | Greystoke Mahale, Andrew Marinkovich | Manda Bay

Bicycle ride your way through Jinja on the coast of Lake Victoria.

M A DAG A S C A R Learn about the resident hatchling turtles at Miavana on the private island of Nosy Ankao.

K E N YA Relax and play in paradise along the shores of Lamu Beach.

Pastel-tinted sunsets paint the Tanzanian sky at Jabali Ridge.

RETURN TO TANZANIA Nicky Brandon, Ker & Downey’s Director of Marketing and Sales, embarks on a journey to the country of her childhood and discovers a modern safari wonderland.

As told to Rina Chandarana

still vividly remember the road trips I enjoyed as a child. My parents would pile their three daughters and a bunch of supplies into a Land Rover and set off from our home in Dar es Salaam. My first foray took place when I was just four years old. Our family camped in Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater, where flamingo flocks wade and zebra herds wander. This first out-of-city excursion left a lasting impression. At the time I didn’t realize it, but my parents were pioneers of safari. They were indeed nomads, and that quality has been passed down to me. Since those days I have experienced so much of Africa, but Tanzania still holds a special place in my heart. It was a great country to grow up in; we could to go to the beach and sail, or head inland to see the wildlife. It had been 20 years since my last visit to Tanzania and as I prepared for my return, I wondered what I would experience from a place that is so familiar. My journey would bring me to the less-frequented southern safari circuit, a part of Tanzania far removed from the crowds and more representative of raw Africa. Luxury camps from the Asilia family of properties were ready to welcome me back.

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Walk amongst the Selous Game Reserve with expert guides.

After a flight into Dar es Salaam, eyes wide and taking in the city's updated appearance, I was whisked off to the Oyster Bay Hotel. The colonial-era maternity hospital was once a sprawling hotel and has been transformed into a more intimate boutique space. Being here brought back fond memories of when I used to play in its gardens after enjoying fancy lunches of freshly-caught lobster. Whether you're simply overnighting in Dar or staying a day or two, this is a serene starting point for a southern circuit itinerary. My safari began when I hopped on a short flight from the city to the Selous Game Reserve. The luxury eight-tent Roho ya Selous camp is set up less than two miles from where I used to camp with my family. The difference back then is that it would take two days to arrive after road-tripping though the African wilderness. We had to take our own water, food, fuel, tents . . . everything. My father would set up our camp and for four to six days, we would all sleep under the stars. At Roho ya Selous I experienced a low-stress fly-camping excursion, an updated version of my family’s rustic sleep-outs. All set-up and details are taken care of for you of course — fly camping is a must-do to connect with the surroundings.

A mother and her calf roam the open Ruaha National Park

The next stop on my modern-day Tanzania safari was Ruaha National Park. I found Kwihala Camp’s six individual tents nestled between the trees. Clean lines and canvas evoked the era of the colonial explorers — elegant and eco-friendly with a vintage twist. Here I gathered with fellow travelers around flickering lanterns in the evenings to trade stories about our favorite animal encounters. Wildlife enthusiasts will love Kwihala — this is where you can really get up-close to the animals. I experienced the most fantastic safari walk here. It was totally wild and unlike anything I had ever done in my life. We bounded along over rocks and into places in the landscape I never would have been able to get to without a guide leading the way. I'm surprised that I always learn something new from my guides on safari, no matter how much I think I might know about a place or an animal.

“Every day, I learn something new and see a place in a different way with different seasons.” - Lorenzo Rossi Head guide at Kwihala Camp

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Photos courtesy of Jabali Ridge | Roho ya Selous | Kwihala Camp

Jabali Ridge's plunge pool is a welcomed respite after a day on safari.

My last stop was at Jabali Ridge where I enjoyed beautiful views of palms and baobabs. In my family road trip days, we stayed at a modest camp in the area, and it was nothing like what I experienced this trip. The plunge pool at the lodge was a welcome treat after a long day on safari, and afternoon tea was a soothing wind down. If tea isn't your thing, a gin and tonic is always available from the massive gin bar (quite elevated compared to the days when my parents had to settle for packing their own Konyagi). After so many years away from my country of birth, I wasn’t sure what to expect. But I was happy to see that a lot has stayed the same. The marvelous wilderness that

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captivated me as a child had been carefully preserved and the new properties nestled perfectly within. It was all very familiar and yet new and exciting, and my trip left me with the urgent desire to share. I can confidently say that the next time I return to Tanzania, I won't be alone. Compared to when I was a kid, traveling with families has never been easier. Parents who bring their children to Africa, and especially Tanzania, have the option of overnighting in spacious villas, available for exclusive use. My kids are desperate to visit the places from their mother’s childhood, and I'm looking forward to sharing that history with them one day.

Packing cubes save space, keep things in order, and helps keep clothes from getting balled up and wrinkled. - Mary Jean Eraci, Luxury Travel Expert

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SOUTHERN

AFRICA SOUTH AFRICA Sip on Cabernet Sauvignon in the Winelands region just a short trip from Cape Town.

ZAMBIA Get up close to big game on a guided walk through the South Luangwa National Park.

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B O T S WA N A

SOUTH AFRICA

MOZAMBIQUE

ZAMBIA

NAMIBIA

ZIMBABWE

M OZ A M B I Q U E Dive into the sea to find a vibrant underwater world.

B OT SWA N A

Photos courtesy of Ruckomechi | Anantara Bararuto | Desert Rhino Camp | iStock

Embark on a horseback safari through the Okavango Delta.

NAMIBIA Learn about the black rhino conservation efforts in the remote mountainous desert area of Kuene.

ZIMBABWE Canoe on the Zambezi River and catch sight of majestic elephants wading in the water.

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Ol Jogi Private Wildlife Conservancy

THE GOOD TRIP Six luxe safari lodges offer dream vacations with purpose. By Rina Chandarana

Lodges and camps that host conservation programs are a safari bonus, allowing guests to get up close to magnificent endangered species as part of their journey. These are our favorite places to embrace responsible tourism.

Ol Jogi Kenyan kids practically shake hands with majestic elephants during visits to the Ol Jogi Private Wildlife Conservancy, nestled in the shadow of snow-capped mountains. For over 30 years this property has been offering free educations for thousands of students who want to learn about preserving the fragile ecosystem. In 1986, Ol Jogi established the Wildlife Rescue Center to care for orphaned and injured animals, and guests of the property get to witness their rehabilitation. A wild and wonderful world of endangered black rhinos, GrĂŠvy's zebras, prides of lions, graceful giraffes and chasing cheetahs awaits â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and only 14 guests at a time can experience the serene safari experience.

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Lion spotted in the Selinda Reserve

Great Plains Conservation The Great Plains Foundation’s top-notch lodges — Duba Plains Camp, Selinda Camp and Mara Plains Camp — contribute ecotourism dollars to National Geographic Society’s Big Cat Initiative, buying hunting and agricultural lands to convert into wildlife areas for roaming lions, cheetahs and leopards. In Botswana, Rhinos Without Borders has been steadily increasing the number that are moved to safe havens in Botswana from threatened lands in South Africa.

Ol Pejeta A journey to Ol Pejeta is a journey into Africa fit for conservation-minded travelers. Six tented camps and lodges in Kenya generate the funds needed for Ol Pejeta’s Conservation in Action program, welcoming 25,000 school kids a year to learn more about wildlife preservation. Watch primates climb, explore and socialize at the Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary, a refuge for orphaned and abused chimps since 1993. Become a modern-day explorer by helping to track lions and see hippos splash and wallow in the waters.

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Choose camps that provide bush experiences, comfort, conservation and expert guides who really know their stuff. - Nicky Brandon, Luxury Travel Expert

Feeding baby rhinos at Ol Pejeta 32

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Camp Jabulani Bird watchers flock to South Africa’s Kruger National Park to glimpse the feathered mosaic of the more than 350 species of birds found here. Among them is the Cape Vulture, a threatened species that has been steadily declining across southern Africa. Visit the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Center to learn more about these birds — they drop in frequently to dine on leftover bones and meat. Animal lovers will jump at the chance to visit the center’s hospital where big cats are cared for prior to being re-released into the wild. Travelers can even help feed the youngsters with the center staff.

Animal lovers will jump at the chance to visit the center’s hospital where big cats are cared for prior to being rereleased into the wild.

Over 350 species of birds can be found at Kruger National Park

Okonjima Bush Camp Big cats feel right at home in Namibia’s Okonjima Nature Reserve and guests at the Okonjima Bush Camp will too. Eight thatched chalets, a junior suite and three well-outfitted safari tents sit a stone’s throw away from where the AfriCat Foundation does their groundbreaking work rehabilitating and relocating cheetah and leopards back into the wild. Enhance your experience by visiting the foundation to learn about the conservation efforts achieved hand-in-hand with local farmers as well as their projects to preserve this pristine habitat. Go on a game drive through the sprawling grasslands to spot the majestic creatures in this incredible wilderness.

Cheetah in Namibia

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On a flower walking safari at Grootbos Private Reserve

WAYS TO DO GOOD WHILE YOU TRAVEL

Enhance your trip with good vibes — plan ahead to give back during or after your journey.

1. See monkeys, cheetahs, elephants and hippos being nursed back to health at Ol Jogi’s Wildlife Rescue Center. Or pitch in with their conservation initiatives, community outreach and cattle ranching projects. 2. Going to a Great Plains Conservation property? Bring extra supplies for their Conservation Education Program and Women’s Craft Groups to help local families. 3. Chat about cheetah conservation at the AfriCat Foundation and then head out into the sprawling grasslands to spot the majestic rehabilitated creatures roaming in this incredible wilderness. 4. Feed baby big cats at Camp Jabulani’s Hoedspruit Endangered Species Center’s hospital. Then, join the fight to protect endangered animals via camp partners such as The Wildlife Conservation Trust and WildAid. 5. Pick vegetables at the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve’s farm and prepare a meal with the chef. Keep up with Grootbos Foundation’s Wish List on their website, which charts current needs like sports equipment, children’s books and gardening tools. 6. Learn about rhinoceros recovery efforts during a horse ride through a protected enclosure with an Ol Pejeta guide. Consider incorporating volunteering activities into your itinerary, such as caring for rhinos, walking dogs and helping out at a children’s home. Ask your Ker & Downey Luxury Travel Consultant about ways to get involved.

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve Established in 2004, the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is surrounded by a blanket of blooming flowers. Visitors fill their lungs with the freshest air, all thanks to the 385 trees that Grootbos has planted since 2013. Guests directly contribute to the onsite horticulture and landscaping training for local communities. Grootbos lavishes guests in luxury and goes big on environmentally friendly practices. Plus, the wildlife viewing is remarkable. The lodges are calming sanctuaries doling out huge helpings of land and sea. This tip of Africa is the meeting point of two oceans, home to the marine big five: great white sharks, seals, penguins, Southern right whales and dolphins. The region’s astounding array of biodiversity earned it the title of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Upon setting foot in this natural paradise, it’s easy to see why.

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EXTRAORDINARY

SOUTH AFRICA

CAMP JABULANI is a five-star Relais & Chateaux accredited luxury lodge, offering an extraordinary African experience. Six private suites each have a deck and plunge pool. Families and groups are accommodated in The Zindoga Villa. Embark on Big Five safari drives and bush walks, visit the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre (HESC) and soar over the landscape on canyon helicopter tours and hot air ballooning.

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Camp Jabulani in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM

NORTH AFRICA & MIDDLE EA ST

EGYPT

Q ATA R

ISRAEL

S U DA N

J O R DA N

UNITED ARAB

MOROCCO

E M I R AT E S

OMAN

U N I T E D A R A B E M I R AT E S Spot Dubai's iconic palm-shaped islands during a flight from Abu Dhabi.

Shop, haggle and admire handmade crafts in the bustling markets.

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Photos courtesy of iStock | Jordan Tourism Board

OMAN

J O R DA N Visit the Treasury of Petra at night, when it is lit by hundreds of candles.

ISRAEL Take a private boat ride on the freshwater Sea of Galilee.

M O R O CCO Learn to make traditional bread and have tea with a Berber family in the Atlas Mountains.

E GY P T Explore the ruins of the Oracle at Siwa, where Alexander the Great was coronated.

Sunset over Dubai

CITY OF GOLD Opulent, bustling and bold — this jewel of the United Arab Emirates is not to be outshined. By Rina Chandarana

Dubai rises above the golden desert and the hazy waters of the Persian Gulf. Beyond its shiny façade, the decidedly global city is an inviting combination of both eastern traditions and western modernity worthy of exploration.

Aim for the Sky The Dubai skyline tells the story of brisk development with each new height representing another decade. Zip up to the top of the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, to get a wider scope of the city’s upwards and outwards expansion. The desert backdrop against soaring glass and steel skyscrapers makes for a dramatic contrast. At night, head to one of the city’s topfloor bars or lounges to sip on a creative cocktail or a classic martini. Iris at the top of The Oberoi is one of the hot spots to see and be seen.

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Enjoy a private traditional dhow boat ride

Experience the Culture

Wander through one or more of the over 20 galleries located in warehouses in the arts district. The Salsali Private Museum features contemporary art, while the Dubai Museum takes travelers back to a time when life was simpler. This once desert outpost has now transformed into a shimmering pearl on the Persian Gulf and modern travelers benefit from the best of both worlds.

Shop in Style

Explore the Sand and Sea

The sidewalks of Dubai resemble a daily runway show and the obsession with fashion is on full display. Women in flowing abayas flaunt the latest designer bags, while men in suits or long, white thawbs sport high-end watches. Boutiques along Jumeirah Beach Road sell a wild array of everything from silver teapots to haute couture. Sprawling malls offer an air-conditioned shopping alternative alongside ample entertainment. Ski indoors down a giant slope in the largest snow park in the world at the Mall of the Emirates. Push pause on shopping and go underwater in Dubai Mall’s walk-through aquarium tunnel.

The glimmering lights of the metropolis are no match for the twinkling stars the desert sky. After a bouncing four-wheel-drive ride along the dunes, settle in for a luxurious meal as the sun sets over the sand. Off the coast, beaches offer a somewhat cooling respite from the city. Water sports enthusiasts take their pick between scuba diving, flyboarding, jet skiing and sailing. Kick back poolside at one of the swanky hotels or go for an exhilarating slide in the waterpark at the Burj Al Arab.

In Dubai's old town, browse souks for just about anything, escorted through the thrum by a local guide. Dhows from China, India and all over the east once brought their treasures to these lively markets. These lateened ships still bob in the canals, brought to life from the Arabian Nights tales. Bargain for brilliant gold jewelry and oud fragrances in these old souks and recall a time when Dubai was just a small town.

Savor the World A narrow pasage at Wadi al-Hasa

Dubai’s international appeal has elevated its cuisine. An important business hub, go-getters and lovers of luxury flock here from all over the globe, making it a top spot for mouth-watering, ethnically-diverse dishes. There is an endless supply of delectable plates from Indonesian and Indian curries to fine dining outposts helmed by celebrity chefs including Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsay and Nobu Matsuhisa. Catch a break in the heat of the day the day with a local favorite: rosewater ice cream. Wine and dine at Pierchic at the Jumeirah Al Qasr and indulge at one of the stylish cafes in the City Walk, a buzzing area of shops, restaurants and entertainment. Purple flower chicken dumplings at Pai Thai

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Photos courtesy of iStock | Jumeirah Al Qasr

Rich Bedouin traditions run deep in Dubai’s poetry, songs, dances and storytelling rituals. Take a traditional dhow boat ride to admire the city from a different perspective while smoking a sheesha pipe. Watch falcons swoop and soar at a falconry demonstration in the desert or see a camel race, a thrilling and deeply-ingrained part of the Emirati culture.

Find Arabian Luxury Feel like royalty at Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf, exclusive summerhouses set amongst waterways, lush gardens, palatial rooms and a private beach. The unique artificial palm-shaped island right off the coast houses the 90-room One&Only the Palm where visitors feel a little more secluded from the city.

Jumeirah Dar al Masyaf summerhouses along the waterways

PRO TIP!

The UAE is more liberal than other Middle Eastern countries, but to be prepared for cold air conditioning or an impromptu visit inside places of worship, women should still keep a large scarf handy. - Katy Heerssen, Luxury Travel Expert

A SIA

B H U TA N

L AOS

SINGAPORE

CAMBODIA

M A L AY S I A

SRI LANKA

CHINA

MALDIVES

THAILAND

INDIA

MONGOLIA

VIETNAM

INDONESIA

M YA N M A R

U Z B E K I S TA N

J A PA N

N E PA L

K A Z A K H S TA N

PHILIPPINES

CAMBODIA Cycle through charming neighborhoods and see the peaceful temples.

Photos courtesy of iStock | Como Paro

TIBET Meditate with a lama from a local monastery.

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B H U TA N Enjoy a private archery demonstration from local archers.

VIETNAM Get exclusive entry into one of Ho Chi Minh Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest contemporary art spaces, housed in a restored French colonial building.

CHINA Take an in-depth, expert-led tour of museums to learn about the history of China..

INDIA Wind through a colorful Jaipur market on a morning stroll.

A monk quietly observes the Indus Valley as the last light catches the mountain tops.

MOUNTAIN HIGH PHOTOGRAPHY BY AUSTIN MANN

Asia luxury travel expert Lisa Sun charts a travelerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide to Ladakh, the Land of High Passes.

M Y JOU R N E Y T O L I T T L E T I B E T was a revelation of high-altitude desert drama, fortress-like monasteries towering atop hills resembling stone sentinels guarding the villages below. Located in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir, Ladakh is draped in a surreal landscape made up of steep mountains, craggy canyons, blue glacial lakes and green raging rivers. In this photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise, the intense sunlight at this height produces amazing colors, particularly at sunrise and sunset. The people of this former Buddhist kingdom are determined to thrive against the harsh elements of Mother Nature.

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A crisp morning at Thiske Monastery.

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THINGS TO DO At 17,850 feet, the Khardung la Pass is one of the highest motorable roads in the world and was once part of a major caravan route between Leh and Kashgar. Be prepared: reaching this high mountain pass involves a long, winding drive with dizzying switchbacks up and down the mountains. It's best to visit after a few days of acclimatizing in the Himalayan high-desert town of Leh. Hemis and Thikse are popular monastery stops, but I prefer the quieter monasteries of Chemdey and Likir, where monks shed their outer robes after prayers. The left-behind clothes, resembling coiled up pyramids, make for quite the odd sight on their own. I took in a dynamic polo match, the most popular form of entertainment for Ladakhis, which can be arranged exclusively for Ker & Downey clients. It’s exciting to join the locals in cheering on the colorfully-clad players. I also highly recommend a visit to a local family’s home. Ladakhis traditionally lead a nomadic life, are dependent on agriculture, and are known to be self-sufficient and ecologically conscious. I found it fascinating to learn about the ancient Tibetan Buddhist culture, carried over for centuries from one generation to the next.

WHEN TO VISIT Despite its extremely short travel season — from June to September — visitors to Ladakh reach record-breaking numbers year after year, with no sign of a slowdown anytime soon. The majority of visitors are families on school break, and I suggest visiting in September once crowds head back to school.

Colorful traditinal dancers perform during a local festival.

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Local villagers in Ladakh

Wherever you go, Ladakhâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural beauty and tangible spirituality are guaranteed to charm those lucky enough to make it there.

Photo courtesy of The Ultimate Travelling Camp

WHERE TO STAY The Ultimate Travelling Camp operates two luxurious tented camps in Ladakh, with the main Chamba Camp located in Thiksey near Leh. Here guests can watch a polo game, take a raft ride down the Indus River and visit Thikse monastery during morning prayers. The other Chamba camp is located in Diskit in Nubra Valley, where visitors can ride a two-hump Bactrian camel, as well as visit a sacred lake and Diskit monastery. The camps make for a luxe glamping experience, outfitted with en suite bathrooms, personal butlers and private decks to enjoy the surrounding mountain and monastery views. Both camps are unique in scenery and activities, and they really are best done together. Luxury tented camping at Chamba Camp, Diskit

PRO TIP!

Purchase a waterproof phone case to keep your phone dry from the rain and clean from dust from the long drives on dirt roads. - Lisa Sun, Luxury Travel Expert

K ER & D OW N E Y

For those looking for more casual environment, I suggest the cozy cottages of Saboo Resort in a quiet village outside of Leh. You'll find simple surrounds enhanced by a friendly staff and local character.

You may call it a palaces tour. We call it time travel.

18th century, Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

19th century, Rambagh Palace, Jaipur

19th century, Taj Falaknuma Palace, Hyderabad

Grand traditions commenced by erstwhile maharajas. Splendid courtyards that witnessed royal celebrations. Secret recipes that won over generations of emperors. Each Taj palace is steeped in stories and history. Explore four of them in one incredible escape and live the life of Indian royals.

20th century, Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur

B Y T H E TA J Authentic Grand Palaces

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Taj in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM

NORTH AMERICA

UN I TED STATES

A R I ZO N A Take a private helicopter flight over the Grand Canyon.

Photos courtesy of iStock | Austin Mann

CALIFORNIA Walk through Yosemite Valley with a John Muir historian.

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A L A S KA Embark on a bear viewing excursion along the Katmai Coast.

U TA H Uncover history on a paleontology hike through the Slot Canyons.

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Bison spotted in Yellowstone National park

WAY OUT WEST Luxury Travel Expert Catherine Brown heads to Wyoming in search of America’s best wildlife.

For years, I have been dreaming of seeing the Western United States — the real west, full of mountains, wildlife and cowboy culture. Spotting a bear and seeing a buffalo in Yellowstone National Park were on the top of my bucket list. I started out early with my guide, Loren, heading into Yellowstone at the West entrance. Loren has been coming to Yellowstone since he was six years old, enjoying several weeks in the park every year with his parents, later his own children and now his grandchildren. After spending so much time in the park, he "just goes by gut" and gets a good feeling of where the wildlife can be found. I shared with him my hope to see a buffalo. He very kindly explained that they are not actually buffalo, but bison — buffalo can only be found in Africa and Asia. They have been so often called buffalo that it is now completely acceptable, even if not accurate. My wish was to see an American bison, and within 15 minutes we met one walking down the road. As we kept driving, the fields opened up to a stunning view full of grazing bison herd. It was incredible.

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T.A. Moulton Barn at sunrise

O U R S U G G E S T E D I T I N E R A RY:

SC EN I C MARVELS OF TH E WEST

9 DAYS / 8 NIG HTS T HR OU G H JAC KSON H OLE, BIG SKY & P HI L IP SBU R G

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PRO TIP!

Save your skin and wear sunscreen, even when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cold. -Catherine Brown, Luxury Travel Expert

We spent an amazing day exploring the park, seeing jaw-dropping views of the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, Grand Prismatic Spring and of course, Old Faithful. At one point a grizzly bear crossed our path; I was too shocked to get my camera out. Second item checked. We saw tons of coyotes, elk and birdlife throughout the day too. The following day, I drove through Yellowstone on my own as I headed to Jackson Hole. To be honest, I did not see a single animal. Although I was looking out for them, I was focused on the road too, and I realized what a valuable thing it is to have a guide like Loren who can point out the highlights and spot the wildlife. The next morning, I met my guide Jeff Lestitian before sunrise, and we headed out along the Moose-Wilson Road just as the sun was coming up on the snowcapped Tetons, making them gleam in orange and purple. Against the mountains, the brilliant yellowish-orange of the quaking aspen trees along the route created a spectacular scene.

Surrounded by wide open spaces with the Tetons peaks rising behind it, it's not surprising that this remnant of the 1912 homestead is one of the most photographed places in America.

A black bear mother and her cubs

And then, just 15 minutes after leaving the hotel, we spotted a mama black bear and her cubs. We pulled up alongside a solo photographer and watched the mother lead her babies up the hill for a good 10 minutes. As the bears foraged and followed their mother, Jeff helped me fit my iPhone with his own lens to get better pictures of the family. When we left, only three other onlookers had joined us, quietly watching. I learned so much about bears that morning from my guide, who had spent years researching them. I later met up with my cousin for dinner and entertained her with my safari stories. After living in Jackson Hole for nine years, she had only seen a bear once; it was certainly a special treat to see the bear family. We continued on into the Grand Tetons National Park to Mormon Row and the famous T.A. Moulton Barn. Surrounded by wide open spaces with the Tetons peaks rising behind, it's not surprising that this remnant of the 1912 homestead is one of the most photographed places in America. While there, we spotted antelope that can run up to 60 miles per hour, and on the way back out, a moose was crossing the road. My time in the parks was an inspiring experience. On top of the incredible scenery in every direction, I was so grateful to both of my guides for not just showing me but teaching me about the wildlife, their habitats and life cycles. I am excited to go back with my family and show them too.

American West Wildlife Checklist These are the animals you can expect to see out on the ranges of Yellowstone and Grand Tetons National Parks. Elk Bison Pronghorn Wolf Coyote Moose Bighorn Sheep Grizzly Bear Black Bear

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LATIN AMERICA

ARGENTINA

C O S TA R I C A

G U AT E M A L A

BELIZE

CUBA

MEXICO

BOLIVIA

ECUADOR &

N I C A R AG UA

BRAZIL

THE

PA N A M A

CHILE

G A L A PA G O S

PERU

CO LO M B I A

ISLANDS

U R U G U AY

CHILE Explore southern Patagonia on a private overland Jeep safari.

Sip champagne under the domes of Quitoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skyline after dark.

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Photos courtesy of Quasar Expeditions | iStock | Amy Willis

E C UA D O R

BRAZIL Have breakfast at the feet of the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro.

BRAZIL Paddle down Ushuaiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lasiphashai River into the Beagle Channel in your own inflatable canoe to view stunning wildlife.

CO LO M B I A Discover the colonial city of Mompox.

PERU Search for pink dolphin on the Amazon River.

CUBA Take a private salsa dancing lesson with the locals.

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Photos courtesy of Inca Rail | Elizabeth Frels

We were married in November and flew down to Argentina, where we connected with Quark Expeditions and caught a flight to Ushuaia, the southernmost tip in South America. From Ushuaia, we boarded the boat with 187 other passengers for 18 days at sea. Antarctica would be Esther's sixth continent to visit; for me, it was my final frontier.

DUE SOUTH A pair of adventurous newlyweds honeymoon at the edge of the earth. Introduction by Haley Beham Words & Photography by Austin Mann and Esther Havens Mann

When you think of a luxury honeymoon destination, does Antarctica spring to mind? Probably not. Remote, rugged and cold, it’s not exactly the stuff luxury honeymoon dreams are made of. Or is it? For photographers Austin Mann and Esther Havens Mann, life is defined by extraordinary adventures. Austin is a travel photographer who spends time flying all over the world to test and review Apple’s latest products. Esther is a humanitarian photographer who works on social awareness campaigns in lesser-traveled areas of the world. Together, they have traveled all over the globe, so when it came time to plan their honeymoon, the destination had to be somewhere unique and unexpected. Austin took the reins on planning with Esther’s only input: “I don’t care where we go, as long as there’s a warm beach.” Was she in for a surprise, or what? Using their own words and images, Austin and Esther share their unconventional honeymoon experience.

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"South Georgia is a treasure that isn’t on many people’s radars, but if you are a birder, it’s the trip of a lifetime ..."

From Ushuaia, we sailed to the Falkland Islands and then onto South Georgia, where the penguin habitat is flourishing. It's common to see colonies reach more than half a million and the sound of 500,000 penguins honking is pretty surreal. South Georgia is a treasure that isn’t on many people’s radars, but if you are a birder, it’s the trip of a lifetime with an incredible diversity of birds from penguins to pipets.

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When you aren’t at sea, your days are balanced on and off the ship. Morning excursions by zodiac with various land- and water-based activities can last up to four hours. We had lunch onboard the boat while it moved to another location, then we set off for another afternoon landing by zodiac. The boat's staff and guides are passionate about showing passengers Antarctica. Each guide has an expertise — a marine mammal specialist, penguin specialist, photographer, mountaineer or expert on glaciers — and gives afternoon lectures on their topic.

Our first sight of Antarctica came two days after sailing from South Georgia when we reached Elephant Island, made famous by explorer Ernest Shackleton. Winds upwards of 75 miles per hour made it impossible to land so we had to wait until the next day to finally step foot onto Antarctica. Once on land, we spent the morning cross-country skiing and taking in the wildlife and views of the vast, white wilderness, icebergs and sea ice. A cheeky penguin spent part of the excursion tobogganing next to us.

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Besides landing at Antarctica, sea kayaking was a highlight of the trip for us. With only 15 people on the kayaking expedition, it was a tranquil, peaceful experience that offered a different perspective. We were silent for 10 minutes, taking in the sounds of ice falling, penguins honking and the ice floating bay.

Because you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a cell signal on the boat, you can be fully present in the moment and take in the experience. Although there were 187 other passengers onboard, we were still able to grab alone time during quiet meals, in the sauna, while getting a massage or in the various places to take in the views from the boat. And while Antarctica might be an unorthodox honeymoon spot, a luxury adventure together with your new spouse is a special way to start off a marriage.

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PRO TIP! Invest in a pair of UV filtering glacier glasses. The leather flaps on the sides will stop the light from passing through and give you the best view of the Antarctic glaciers. - Elizabeth Frels, Luxury Travel Expert

Pristine. Timeless. Wild. The 7th continent is indescribableâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;there simply arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t words powerful enough to convey the beauty of this destination at the end of the earth. On a polar expedition to Antarctica, travelers uncover pure wilderness and untouched pieces of a fragile world while connecting to nature and themselves. This is what makes every journey there truly unforgettable. Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Quark Expeditions in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM

NORTHERN & WESTERN

EUROPE

AUSTR I A

GR EEN LA N D

N ETHER LA N DS

B ELGI UM

I CELA N D

N ORWAY

DEN MA R K

I R ELA N D

SCOTLA N D

EN GLA N D

LATVI A

SWEDEN

ESTON I A

LI ECHTEN STEI N

SWI TZER LA N D

FI N LA N D

LI THUA N I A

WA LES

FR A N CE

LUXEMB OUR G

GER MA N Y

MON ACO

S COT L A N D

IRELAND Enjoy a round of golf at Adare Manor, one of Europe’s most impressive courses.

K ER & DOW N E Y

Photos courtesy of iStock | The Bauernstube_Traube Tonbach | Ireland Tourism Board

Adventure on a 4x4 wildlife safari and eat a picnic lunch in the UK’s largest National Park.

SW I T Z E R L A N D Experience the new Titlis Cliff Walk, the highest suspension bridge in Europe, which is poised above a glacier cave nearly 10,000 feet above sea level.

ICELAND Indulge in the ultimate dinner with a view, hosted inside a volcano.

GERMANY Secure coveted reservations at one of Germanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 300 Michelin starred restaurants.

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Big Ben at sunset

THE ARTIST’S WAY

Follow the footsteps of literary and artistic icons on By Elizabeth Frels an itinerary that traces Paris and London’s most storied streets.

“the streets of london have their map, but our passions are uncharted. what are you going to meet if you turn this corner?” Virginia Woolf, “Jacob’s Room”

irginia Woolf, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway and Pablo Picasso are known not only for their groundbreaking work in the creative canon, but also for their membership in two distinct circles — London’s Bloomsbury Group and Paris’s Lost Generation. Fortunately, for all stripes of explorers seeking inspiration, their memory doesn’t simply live on in print or on canvas. Their presence is still felt in their old haunts and homes — all places that are uniquely accessible to Ker & Downey travelers.

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LONDON Begin in London, the former stomping grounds of the Bloomsbury Group, a legendary assembly of artists, writers and philosophers who shed the bourgeois ideals of their parents and eventually became known as the intellectual aristocracy of the early 20th century. Their early work paved the way for The Lost Generation.

EXPLORE The best way to catch a glimpse into the lives of these illustrious writers in London is on a walking tour of Bloomsbury accompanied by a literary historian, who will retrace their steps among the various garden squares where they lived. As Dorothy Parker observed, the Bloomsbury Group "lived in squares, painted in circles, and loved in triangles." Perhaps the most important square is Number 46 Gordon Square, the home of Vanessa Bell and Virginia Woolf. It is here where the Bloomsbury group gathered for the first time in 1905. Take a day trip to Sussex to visit Monk’s House, home to Leonard and Virginia Woolf from 1919 until 1969. En route, stretch your legs at the magnificent Kew Gardens, also the name of a short story by Woolf. Her view of the trees in the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew from her second home in Richmond inspired this work. Also in Sussex you’ll find Charleston’s Farmhouse, the home of Vanessa Bell, Duncan Grant and David Garnett from 1916 until their deaths. Together, the three transformed the house with art, furniture and decoration, and frequently welcomed the rest of the Bloomsbury Group as guests. Today, it is a time capsule of their lives.

S TAY

The drawing room at the Charlotte Street Hotel

Check into the Charlotte Street Hotel in the heart of Bloomsbury. The spacious Woolf Suite is named after Bloomsbury Group member Virginia Woolf, and the downstairs drawing room boasts three original works by members Vanessa Bell, Duncan Grant and Roger Fry.

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Photos courtesy of Visit Britian; Tate Photography | Charlotte Street Hotel

The Palm House at Kew Gardens

E AT & D R I N K Take tea at Maison Bertaux in London’s Soho. It is the UK’s oldest pastry and tea shop and was a frequent hangout for the Bloomsbury Group. At the Bloomsbury Club, enjoy pre-dinner crafted cocktails named after members of the group. Its finely crafted cocktails are named after members of the Bloomsbury group. End with dinner at Boulestin. The original restaurant opened in 1927 in Covent Garden and was frequented by the Bloomsbury Group. Now located near St. James Palace, it pays homage to its history in a new location with a selection of dishes inspired by the original restaurant’s menu. A couple out to dinner in the 1920s

The luxurious lobby of Hotel Ritz Paris

PA R I S Following World War I, some of America’s nowfamous authors and artists migrated to Paris to escape expensive costs of living and Prohibition. Known as the Lost Generation, this group of creatives included Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, Sylvia Beach, Cole Porter and Josephine Baker. Their living was large, and their influence even larger.

S TAY

A peek inside Theatre des Champs Elysées

E AT & D R I N K Order Hemingway’s favorite dry sherry at Deux Magots café, also frequented by Oscar Wilde. Spend time at Dingo Bar — now Relais de Venise — for a Long Island Iced Tea, first invented by Hemingway. Or head to Harry’s New York Bar that lays claim to inventing the Bloody Mary, and was a frequent meeting place for Stein, Hemingway, Ford Madox Ford and Fitzgerald.

PRO TIP!

Grab a bottle of wine and watch the tango enthusiasts dance until twilight in the mini amphitheatres along the Seine in the 5th arrondissement. - Elizabeth Frels, Luxury Travel Expert

Dine at Le Pré aux Clercs, a restaurant frequented by Ernest and Hadley Hemingway that still exists today. Or go to Hemingway’s daily spot, Closerie des Lilas, where he wrote The Sun Also Rises and first read the manuscript for Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby. For an extra special occasion, venture to the rooftop restaurant of Theatre des Champs Elysées. This theater is famous for having welcomed American dancer, Josephine Baker, whose fans such as Picasso, Kees van Dongen, Jean Cocteau and Fernand Léger contributed to her worldwide renown.

Photos courtesy of Hotel Ritz Paris; Vincent Leroux | Theatre des Champs Elysées | Shakespeare & Company

Check in to the Fitzgeralds’ first Parisian abode, Hotel St-James & Albany, or opt for the flashier Hôtel Ritz Paris. This legendary hotel appears regularly in Fitzgeralds’ novels and is home to the Hemingway Bar, where Cole Porter is said to have composed “Begin the Beguine” and where Hemingway and Gary Cooper would meet for hours of conversation.

Montmartre Street Cafe

EXPLORE Set the tone with a chauffeured drive through Paris in a 1940s Vintage Citroën. Along the way, gain private entry into the select Travellers Club, where Hemingway drank champagne on the way to “free the Ritz” in 1944. In the company of a dedicated art historian, explore the Montmarte Museum and the Bateau Lavoir, where you will find a portrait of Gertrude Stein painted by Picasso.

Storefront of the famous Shakespeare & Company

“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.” Ernest Hemingway, “A Moveable Feast”

Next, follow Hemingway and Hadley to Shakespeare & Company, Sylvia Beach’s bookshop. When they first visited this institution in 1921, Beach was in the throes of correcting the last chapters of Ulysses with James Joyce. Enjoy access to 27 rue de Fleurus, formerly the home of Gertrude Stein and her partner Alice Toklas. This beautiful apartment near the Luxembourg gardens was intimately detailed in A Moveable Feast and is still filled with works by Picasso, Matisse and Cézanne. Conclude your ramblings with a stroll in the Luxembourg gardens, where Hemingway frequently sat searching for inspiration.

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EASTERN & SOUTHERN

EUROPE

A LB A N I A

GEOR GI A

R OMA N I A

A R MEN I A

GR EECE

R USSI A

A ZER B A I JA N

HUN GA RY

SER B I A

B OSN I A &

I TA LY

SLOVA KI A

HER ZEGOVI N A

MA LTA

SLOVEN I A

B ULGA R I A

MON TEN EGR O

SPA I N

CR OATI A

POLA N D

TUR KEY

CZECH R EPUB LI C

PORTUGA L

UKR A I N E

MONTENEGRO Explore the seaside trio of Sveti Stefan, Budva and Kotor.

Photos courtesy of iStock | Motor Valley, Museo Ferruccio Lamborghini

CO R S I C A Discover the birthplaces of Christopher Columbus and Napoleon Bonaparte, as well as the artisan-rich villages of the Balagne.

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S LOV E N I A Indulge in wine tastings, Michelin-starred dinners and multi-course castle meals in Goriska Brda.

C R OAT I A Sail to the Elaphiti Islands on a private full-day voyage by boat.

H U N G A RY Explore the underground pulse of contemporary art in Budapest.

I TA LY Travel to the heart of the Motor Valley for a Formula 1 driving experience at Italy's most prestigious sport driving school.

St Pauls Anglican Cathedral and Carmelite Church at Valletta Malta

A TASTE OF MALTA Ker & Downey’s Nicole Porto travels to the land of sun and sea to sample its rich culinary scene.

outh of Sicily and north of Libya, the country of Malta sits at a fascinating crossroads of history and culture. Early settlers left their mysterious Neolithic temples and tombs; invading Arabs brought their language; St. Paul ushered in Christianity, and France sent Napoleon. That prompted the Maltese to request the assistance of the British, who stuck around until the 20th century. Now Malta is its own republic, but still preserves the vestiges of these cultures. For all this foreign influence, the Maltese are fiercely proud of their unique island home. Each village has its own cathedral (it is said there are 365 churches — one for each day of the year), its own language peculiarities, and its own preferences for what to include in the ricotta pies, known as torta tal irkotta. For instance, one village may put broad beans in theirs, while the next village may add golden raisins — a serious matter of importance. Notably, none of these villages are more than 10 minutes away from each other.

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he influx of settlers, invaders, conquerors, saints and saviors has left its imprint on many things in Malta, but none more obvious than in the island's culinary traditions. Take ftira, the name for Malta’s ubiquitous sandwich, as well as the semi-flat bread that accompanies it. This sourdough is found on every Maltese table. A typical snack would be cubes of bread slathered with a thick, sweet tomato kunserva, drizzled with olive oil and finished with fresh marjoram. A heartier meal consists of the same bread, kunserva and olive oil, but made into a sandwich with pickled onions, capers, olives and other fresh vegetables and eaten with gbejna, a kind of cured sheep’s milk cheese that can be either plain or peppered. These dishes are simple, but with ingredients so fresh, it’s no wonder that every bite is a revelation. The opportunity to experience not only the flavors of Malta, but also the history behind each dish is the highlight of any visit to the island. Malta’s cooking classes truly are set apart from the rest of the world. They include visits to the actual farms or gardens where the ingredients are sourced, as well as instructors who care about how to make traditional foods and share why those foods are important to the country.

Local chef preapring a sandwich

CRAFT YOUR CULINARY TOUR Cooking classes aren’t the only way to experience the flavors of Malta. Round out your custom journey with these delicious diversions. VISIT A TINY BAKERY where the same kind of bread has been baked every day for generations. Just out of the oven and spread with butter and salt, it's the perfect post-breakfast snack before a day of discovery in Valletta. HEAD TO THE FARM of Malta’s “godfather of olive oil,”

where olive oil fresh from the press awaits sampling. VISIT A LOCAL SHEEP FARM to taste all three

iterations of the gbejna: fresh, sun dried and peppered. There’s no better start to a farm-fresh lunch in the Maltese countryside, armed with a few “cheeselets” (little rounds of gbejna).

K E R & D OW N E Y

Meeting the locals as they go about their daily routine offers not only the flavor of daily life, but savory dishes as well. Indeed, food forges memories, collects histories and creates lasting bonds. It is moments like these that make up a truly unforgettable experience in Malta.

Lunch at a local farm

Photos courtesy of iStock | Nicole Porto

Any culinary tour must include a cup of famed Maltese coffee. It's a special treat to share a cup with someone like Chef George Borg, who hosts his own cooking show and who is considered a top influencer in Malta’s vibrant foodie scene. To Chef Borg, coffee is the perfect example of Maltese resilience, since for much of its history Malta was under some form of attack or rule. The Maltese people learned to reserve their best ingredients for those in charge, so something as simple as a cup of coffee became a lesson in survival and creativity. Pirates and invaders were supplied with the good coffee, made with just coffee beans, while the local people watered down their own cups of joe with less expensive spices. The result today is an exceptionally delicious cup that bears a closer resemblance to Arabic coffee, fragrant with cloves, anise, cinnamon and cardamom.

Torquoise blue waters off the coast of Malta

PRO TIP!

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a private beach that only locals go to. After visiting the salt flats, ask the driver to take you to the end of the coastal road and hike down a path to get to a secret beach in a narrow inlet. If you go when school is in, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have the whole thing to yourself. - Nicole Porto, Luxury Travel Expert

SOUTH PACIFIC

AUSTR A LI A FI J I FR EN CH POLYN ESI A N EW ZEA LA N D PA PUA N EW GUI N EA

AU S T R A L I A See a cuddly koala colony at the Philip Island Wildlife Sanctuary.

Learn about the traditions, symbols, dances and songs of the local people with a historian.

K ER & DOW N E Y

Photos courtesy of iStock | Australia Tourism, robburnettimages

F R E N C H P O LY N E S I A

AU S T R A L I A Shop in Hobartâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic Salamanca Market to get a taste of Tasmaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique culture.

FIJI Swim across a deep-water ravine to get to secluded waterfalls on Taveuni Island.

NEW ZEALAND Admire the wearable art garments and over 140 vintage cars at the National WOW Museum.

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The historic Seppeltsfield winery in Barossa Valley.

FOODIE’S PARADISE Discover eight delicious reasons to explore Australia’s Barossa Valley, the tiny southern region with a big reputation for gourmet food and award-winning wines. By Rina Chandarana

ust a short drive from Adelaide, there's a bounty of culinary curiosities to keep you sated amidst vineyard-blanketed hills.

The Barossa Valley is an ideal corner of Australia where epicurean culture is celebrated and savored. With Ker & Downey, you can wind your way through the villages and wineries in a vintage car or soar high above in a hot air balloon to get a bird’s eye view of the rows upon rows of vineyards, sometimes visited by kangaroos. Settled by German immigrants in the 19th century, the sixth generation of these grape-growing families are still producing some of Australia’s most popular wines. It's a foodie destination that can't be missed. Here are eight fun ways to wine and dine in the Land Down Under.

1. SEPPELTSFIELD Take a tour of the historic Seppeltsfield estate, one of the oldest wineries in the country. Founded in 1851, it is known for its Para Tawny — the world's only unbroken collection spanning 120 years. Enjoy tastings with a timeline as your guide, or create a custom flight based on anniversaries and birthdates from your own personal history.

KE R & DOWN E Y

Stunning vineyards surround Two Hands Wines

2. TWO HANDS WINES

3. LANGMEIL WINERY

Jump into a Land Rover and head out to the Two Hands Wines’ vineyards to see the actively cultivated blocks. Unwind with a glass of Semillon on superbly situated decks that blend seamlessly into the natural surroundings. It feels like home here: Rhodesian Ridgebacks Daisy and Saffy frequently lounge in front of the fireplace and the tasting room is cozy.

Sample vintages produced from the world’s oldest surviving Shiraz vines, dating back to 1842. In the tasting room, you'll also hear stories about the German family that founded this quaint and quiet place. Even if you don’t drink wine, you will enjoy the history and tranquil setting.

4. JAMFACTORY Browse the shops at the JamFactory, an 1850s horse stable converted into a hub for local artists and craftspeople to make, exhibit and sell their wares.

K ER & DOW N E Y

Custom glass on display at JamFactory

5. MARANANGA Snap postcard-worthy pictures and enjoy visions of a bygone era in this village. The towering white steeple of the town's Lutheran church is a striking contrast against the blue sky and green fields. You can also listen as the century-old Maranga Brass Band belt out a tune during a practice session.

Photos courtesy of South Australian Tourism Commission | The Louise

6. ANGASTON Stroll along the main street and pop into little cheese shops, cafes, bakeries and wine shops. On Saturday mornings, the town hosts the Barossa Farmers Market, brimming with over 50 vendors selling the best of the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seasonal dairy and produce.

Taking a walk in Angaston

Wine and chocolates at the Appellation

7. LYNDOCH LAVENDER FARM Near Angaston, breathe in the heady scent of the 90 varieties of lavender that grow here. Fluttering happily among the flowers, butterflies make up the majority of the farmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thriving population of fauna.

8. THE LOUISE Stay in one of the 15 luxury suites at this intimate and entirely relaxing boutique hotel. Freshly baked bread and food prepared from produce plucked from its garden is always on menu at the Appellation Restaurant. Be sure to try the local Grenache.

PRO TIP!

If you visit Seppeltsfield, plan ahead and bring a list of your significant dates for the customized taste your life experience. - Lisa Chapman, Luxury Travel Expert

KE R & DOW N E Y

JOURNEYS Ker & D owney 's Top Itinera ri es

Andean Explorer, Peru

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C U LT U R A L J O U R N E YS

I T I N E R A RY

E S S E N C E O F J A PA N

1 0 D AY S / 9 N I G H T S Discover Japan’s greatest hits on this 10-day Japan luxury vacation through its essential metropolises and landscapes. Fall in love with Tokyo’s frenetic energy, relax in Hakone’s peaceful charm, and dive into Kyoto’s cultural riches for an all-encompassing glimpse into the very best this exciting country has to offer.

S U G G E S T E D J O U R N E Y AT A G L A N C E : DAY 1-3: TOKYO | MANDARIN ORIENTAL TOKYO DAY 4-5: HAKONE | GORA KADAN DAY 6-8: KYOTO | THE RITZ-CARLTON, KYOTO DAY 9-10: TOKYO | THE PENINSULA TOKYO

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C U LT U R A L J O U R N E YS

I T I N E R A RY

BEST IN PERU

1 4 D AY S / 1 3 N I G H T S This 14-day Peru luxury tour allows you to experience a little bit of everything in Peru: the beauty of Lima, the splendor of Lake Titicaca, the magic and wonder of Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, the history of Cusco, and the magnificence of the Peruvian Amazon, all in Ker & Downey luxury.

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IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE

AMAZON

Delfin Amazon Cruises is the first and only cruise company to be part of Relais & Châteaux and brings you the largest fleet of luxury expedition cruising in the Upper Peruvian Amazon. With its three intimate yet adventurous ships — the Delfin I with only four oversized suites, the Delfin II with 14 authentic spacious suites and the Delfin III with 22 modern Amazonian suites — travelers will be able to discover the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve during their three- and four-night programs. Constant wildlife spotting, exciting activities, delicious gourmet Peruvian meals and exceptional personalized service define authentic boutique cruising, all while immersing you in the vast and mysterious rain forest. Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include the Delfin in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM

E X T R AO R D I N A RY E N C O U N T E R S

I T I N E R A RY

T H E P R I M AT E S A FA R I

S U G G E S T E D J O U R N E Y AT A G L A N C E :

1 6 D AY S / 1 5 N I G H T S

DAY 1: KIGALI | KIGALI SERENA HOTEL

This custom 16-day adventure by Ker & Downey is the ultimate African primate safari, pairing gorilla tracking in Rwanda with chimpanzee safaris in Tanzania. Primate safaris in Rwanda through the hidden forests are one of the most exclusive and thrilling experiences in East Africa â&#x20AC;&#x201D; matched only in its wonder by the Great Migration and wild primate habitats of Tanzania.

DAY 2-4: NYUNGWE FOREST NATIONAL PARK NYUNGWE FOREST LODGE DAY 5-7: VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK SABYINYO SILVERBACK LODGE DAY 8: KIGALI | KIGALI SERENA HOTEL DAY 9-10: LAKE VICTORIA | RUBONDO ISLAND CAMP DAY 11-12: SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK | SAYARI CAMP DAY 13-16: LAKE TANGANYIKA | GREYSTOKE MAHALE

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THIS IS OUR TANZANIA, WHERE BEAUTY TRANSPORTS US AND NATURE GUIDES US. WE’RE WAY OUT IN THE WILDERNESS, BUT WE’D BE LOST IF WE WEREN’T.

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Greystoke Mahale in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM

L U X U RY S A FA R I

I T I N E R A RY

D E S E R T T O D E LTA A B O T S WA N A A D V E N T U R E

1 1 D AY S / 1 0 N I G H T S On this Desert to Delta 10-night Botswana luxury safari, experience a journey that showcases exclusive and authentic discoveries in tented paradise. The game abounds and the stars align when you sleep under canvas.

K E R & D OW N E Y

LUXURY SAFARI IN

B O T S WANA

Meaning “the place where the buffalo broke through the bush into the water", Qorokwe and its cozy confines are situated along the banks of a beautiful lagoon. An example of authentic, responsible luxury, the camp was built using innovative techniques and operates on 100% solar power, thus keeping as light an eco-footprint as possible in one of the Delta’s untouched wilderness areas — one that has been unutilised for the past four years. Find nine elegant tented suites, one of which is a spacious family unit with its own splash pool, as well as a dining area, lounge, library, bar and infinity swimming pool. On the border of Moremi Game Reserve, Qorokwe offers an abundance of wildlife and diverse habitat types — from scattered acacia and mopane woodlands, open seasonal and permanent floodplains fringed on either side by the picturesque channels and islands along the Gomoti and Santantadibe Channels. Game drives, walks and mokoro safaris present life-changing opportunities of viewing and photographing the variety of wildlife found here.

Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Qorokwe in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | KERDOWNEY.COM

THE

SHOT ONE PICTURE, ONE MOMENT, ONE MEMORY CAPTURED BY PHOTOGRAPHER BHARATH MOHAN

In November 2017, my friends and I had spent almost three weeks on the back of a two-wheeler; visiting countless waterfalls, lakes, lookout points and hilltop temples. It was our trip to Doi Inthanon that stood out more than any other. We had high hopes of seeing something special at the highest point in Thailand. After deciding to brave the discomfort of cold mountain air, we biked out in the late afternoon. We were greeted by a gloomy and overcast sky. Fearing that our opportunity was slowly fading away, we crossed our fingers and prayed to the weather gods as we set up our equipment. The powers beyond answered our call and the clouds parted just enough to let the sun peek through and light up the valley below. It was one of the most incredible sunsets I’ve ever witnessed. Look carefully and you’ll find us standing on the side of the mountain next to the front spire — deep in appreciation for the light show that Mother Nature was putting on for us.

Bharath is a marketing creative, travel photographer and videographer with over 40 country stamps in his passport. He has been traveling the world full-time since 2016; contributing articles, photography and videography from his adventures for various magazines, blogs, tourism agencies and tech companies. Most recently he co-founded two companies focused on inspiring the next generation of creatives and explorers: Unraveled Studios and WeSideTrip.com @livingliferemote

KE R & DOWN E Y

MALARIA KILLS MORE THAN WITH

90%

ONE MILLION PEOPLE

E AC H Y E A R ,

OF THEM OCCURRING IN SUB-SAHARAN AFRICA.

O F T H E S E D E AT H S O C C U R I N

75%

C H I L D R E N U ND E R 5 .

OUR GOAL TO P R OV I D E

18,000 NETS

TO C O M M U N I T I E S TO H E L P R E D U C E T H E

R I S K O F L I F E -T H R E AT E N I N G D I S E A S E S

DONATE F O R E V E R Y N E T P U R C H A S E D K E R & D OW N E Y W I L L D O N AT E A N E T. D O N AT E S E C U R E LY O N O U R W E B S I T E AT W W W. K E R D OW N E Y.C O M A N D TYPE

“NETS FOR AFRICA”

UNDER ADD SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS

TO T H E S E L L E R .

TOGETHER WE CAN STOP THE STING OF MOSQUITO BITES

EXPERIENTIAL. L U X U R Y. T H E L U X U R Y M A G A Z I N E F O R W O R L D T R AV E L E R S

T R AV E L .

Belmond Khwai River Lodge

Forget group tours, long lines, or packaged experiences; with Ker & Downey, everything is a completely tailored fit and our artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature is threaded throughout. Let us offer you the opportunity for something rare and exotic, an exclusive journey that no one else can duplicate, and a one-of-a-kind adventure filled with the thrill of experience and the luxury of privacy. This is Ker & Downey.

K E R D O W N E Y. C O M | I N F O @ K E R D O W N E Y. C O M | 8 0 0 . 4 2 3 . 4 2 3 6

K E R D O W N E Y. C O M

C O N T A C T Y O U R T R AV E L P R O F E S S I O N A L O R V I S I T U S O N T H E W E B A T

2018 Spring Quest Magazine

Articles inside

Way Out West

Foodie's Paradise

The Good Trip

Mountain High

A Taste of Malta

Return to Tanzania

City of Gold

Hotspot: Rwanda

Due South