Desert Dreams

There’s more to Egypt than the grand temples of the ancient pharaohs along a legendary river. Head west of the Nile and south of Cairo and find two unique oases and cultures.

By Haley Beham

Fayoum Oasis

When describing the region 750 years ago, Fayoum’s governor Abu ‘Uthmân al-Nabulsi wrote, “Cool are the dawns; tall are the trees; many are the fruits; little are the rains.” With such a tranquil retreat so close to Cairo, it’s surprising one of the most ancient areas in all of Africa remains relatively unknown to the outside world.

Sunflowers, date palms and water buffalo dominate the landscape. This area, known as the Fayoum Oasis, is not an oasis in the truest sense of the word, as it is fed by hundreds of capillary canals from the Nile instead of springs. Still, the land is fertile.

To truly experience one of Egypt’s best kept secrets, make your base at the lavishly luxurious Lazib Inn. With just eight rooms, the boutique hotel is set among manicured gardens overlooking the world’s oldest nature reserve on the shores of Lake Qaroun. Once a breadbasket of the Roman world, this area is known for producing delicious fruits and vegetables. Its bounty inspires the dining experience at Lazib Inn, where fresh, local ingredients stand out.

The relaxing setting makes Lazib Inn an ideal destination to start or end a journey to Egypt, but there’s also plenty to do there. Try horseback rides on Arabian steeds, desert safaris exploring the shimmering sand dunes and exploration of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Wadi El Hitan (Valley of the Whales). Fayoum is widely regarded as the best place for birdwatching in Egypt, peaking from October to April when a number of bird species, including a variety of warblers and larks, flock to the oasis.

Drink local tea at Lazib Inn.

Siwa Oasis

Further west in a seemingly endless expanse of sand, the Siwa Oasis is home to 20,000 indigenous Siwis, a Berber ethnic group who lead minimalistic lives in a tribal system that has remained relatively unchanged for centuries. Since about 700 BC, they have managed to live in isolation, speaking their own language and boasting a cultural identity vastly different from modern Egyptians. For a true glimpse into the lives of the Siwis, make plans to visit a local family for tea in their home.

The Greeks first discovered the Siwa Oasis and established the Oracle of Amun there. After reclaiming Egypt from the Persians, Alexander the Great made the long journey to Siwa to visit the Oracle where, allegedly, he was told he was the son of Amun-Ra, the supreme god. Today, you can walk in Alexander’s footsteps and visit the ruins of the Oracle Temple. You shouldn’t miss a visit to Jebel al- Mwata (Mountain of the Dead) either. It’s Siwa’s version of the Valley of the Kings with ancient tombs dug into the mountain. If you’re adventurous, try dune bashing, sand boarding, hiking or horseback riding in the desert.

Siwan-style rooms at Adrere Amellal.

Retreat to Adrere Amellal, a 40-room eco-resort located at the foot of White Mountain overlooking Lake Siwa. Each room is hand-built using traditional materials in the unique Siwan style that blends into the landscape. With no electricity, the environmentally-sustainable lodge is a true getaway in the desert.

At night pathways are illuminated by lanterns and beeswax candles. Dining becomes an elegant affair as traditional cuisine made from organic and locally-grown produce is served in a different location each night: in a small nook tucked out of the way of the lodge, by the shore of the salt lake or in a forest of palm trees.

After exploring Cairo and the ancient Egyptian temples along the Nile, make time to escape to the two oases setting a new standard of luxury in the desert.

Shali Fortress in Siwa Oasis