Along the Shore

Round River Farm owners David and Lise Abazs. | SUBMITTED

Living off the land

Farming on the North Shore

By Rae Poynter

FINLAND—When you think of Minnesota’s North Shore, “farming” is likely not a word that comes to mind. With its harsh winters and challenging soil types, growing food in this region is difficult—difficult, but not impossible. Several growers along the North Shore supply locally grown food to the community through farmers’ markets, community-supported agriculture (CSAs) and providing food to local grocery stores. One such farm is Round River Farm in Finland. Started by David and Lise Abazs as a homestead in 1988, Round River Farm supplies vegetables to farmers’ markets, operates a seed farm, and even works to help protect the future of the North Shore’s forests.

“Ever since I was young, I wanted to farm,” David said. “I grew up in New York City and one day I saw an episode about the Amish. After that I told my parents that I wanted to farm when I grew up, and that’s stuck with me ever since.”

David met his wife, Lise, while working at a research farm in New Mexico. They were planning to move to the East Coast to caretake a farm in Maine, but Lise, who had grown up in Minnesota, wanted to return to her home state. David, on the other hand, wasn’t so sure.

“I went to the library and researched tree types, snowfall, and access to an ocean. So, I said, ‘The only place I’d want to move to is Finland, Minnesota.’ When we came here at 23, we came with the intent to stay for the rest of our lives and now 33 years later, we’re still here living and farming,” he said.

When they moved to Finland, the Abazses wanted to regenerate an existing farm rather than clearing forest. They found an old Finnish homestead that had been abandoned and began the five-year process of getting the soil fertile enough to farm. Through many years of tending the land, they’ve been able to grow hundreds of crops in a small area, despite the bedrock being only 22 inches underground. To maximize the growing season, the Abazses built four greenhouses and start planting seedlings inside in the early spring, and start planting outside in the greenhouses in April, even while there’s still snow on the ground. By mid-May some of the outside fields are typically ready for planting.

Through many years of tending the land, the Abazses have been able to grow hundreds of crops in a small area. | SUBMITTED

Round River Farm has adapted and shifted focus throughout the years. They initially started with livestock and vegetables, with increasing but variable production, and took whatever they had grown to farmers’ markets. But as their soils got better and productivity became more consistent, they started a CSA, which they ran for 25 years.

“So for 25 years we were running the CSA up to 65 shares and doing three farmers’ markets, all from one acre,” David said. “Throughout all this we also had part-time jobs and we designed it that way because we never wanted to be 100 percent dependent on growing food. We wanted to be sure we were intentionally building our soil and capacity, and if we were too dependent on production, we might have skipped some cover crops or land investment. By having the balance between jobs outside and inside the farm, it gave us the opportunity to put more resources back into the land.”

This balance between living off the land while also giving back to it underpins every aspect of life at Round River Farm, even the name—Aldo Leopold’s essays on Round River emphasize the need to live in harmony with the land and understand its cyclical nature. The focus on regeneration at Round River Farm is found not only in soil cycles but also in the energy cycle and water cycle. David said that being truly regenerative is not merely a matter of sustainability, but a matter of creating cycles that get richer and richer.

“The cool thing is when you increase organic matter you also increase production, which increases resilience to heavy rainfall in the absorption factor. You increase the amount of carbon, which helps the planet. That same acre with half a percent organic matter held about 6,000 pounds of carbon. Now at 15 percent organic matter it holds 194,000 pounds,” he said. “That’s what we’re looking for—all these things that make those cycles more regenerative.”

To maximize the growing season, the Abazses built four greenhouses. | SUBMITTED

David said that while Round River Farm is continuing to sell vegetables at farmers’ markets, they are shifting to focus on growing climate-forward tree seedlings. With the climate growing warmer, the boreal forest is expected to recede northward, and within 50 years the North Shore could be home to a deciduous forest. To maintain a forest canopy in the region, it’s necessary to be forward-thinking when tree planting, and to bring in not only tree species that will thrive here, but genetics from trees in more southerly areas of Minnesota that are adapted to the climate we will see in northeastern Minnesota’s future.

“The forest is changing whether we do anything or not, and how it changes and whether it’s resilient to changes is what we’re part of through the Forest Assisted Migration Project,” he said.

A thorn in our side

Dealing with the invasive buckthorn plant

By Michael Furtman

NORTH SHORE—What’s loved by birds and hated by foresters?

Buckthorn, specifically the non-native common and glossy species (we do have a harmless native buckthorn, the alder-leafed). They are loved by birds because they produce large amounts of berries to consume (the seeds of which are spread in their droppings). And they are hated by foresters because they spread rapidly, crowding out native shrubs, shading out wildflowers, and stifling young tree growth. They also diminish wildlife habitat, so you can add wildlife managers to the “not a fan” list.

Glossy buckthorn (shown here) tends to be under 3 feet in height, while common (also known as European) buckthorn grows the tallest, up to 10 feet in height. | MINN DEPT OF AGRICULTURE

According to the Minnesota DNR, these buckthorn species were first brought here from Europe as a popular hedging material. They became a nuisance plant, forming dense thickets in forests, yards, parks and roadsides. Glossy buckthorn has been sold by the nursery trade in three different forms, so its appearance can vary. Today it is illegal to sell or transport buckthorn plants.

Of the two, the common (also known as European) buckthorn grows the tallest, up to 10 feet in height. Glossy tends to be under 3 feet in height. Since they are similar in appearance to some native shrubs, such as chokecherry and dogwoods, it takes a bit of study to tell shrubby species apart. Thankfully, the Midwest Invasive Species Information Network has a great online tutorial which can be viewed at: bit.ly/misincommonbuckthorn.

Perhaps the easiest way to determine if you have buckthorn on your property is to wait until late autumn. Buckthorn holds green leaves into winter, long after our native shrubs have shed theirs. If you spot a bush or small tree with green leaves in November or December, you’re almost certainly looking at buckthorn.

So, is buckthorn a problem in the Northern Wilds region? According to Cassandra Baysal, the Minnesota DNR NE region invasive species specialist, so far, we’re lucky.

Birds love buckthorn because they produce large amounts of berries to consume (the seeds of which are spread in their droppings). Since they are similar in appearance to some native shrubs, such as chokecherry and dogwoods, it takes a bit of study to tell shrubby species apart. | MINN DEPT OF AGRICULTURE

“Lake and Cook counties seem to be the leading edge of buckthorn, both glossy and European, in Northeast Minnesota. We have treated several forested stands in the last couple of years, and more seem to appear on the landscape every year. These infestations typically have a moderate density of buckthorn presence where we assume the infestation started, then moves towards lower densities the further we get from the epicenter. They require multiple years of treatments because they typically have a pretty abundant seedbed. The North Shore hasn’t really seen the super dense buckthorn understories that many parts of Minnesota have. For example, in Aitkin County there are stands where literally nothing else is growing in the understory as buckthorn densities have blocked all sunlight, and it’s pretty tough to walk through these stands because of these high densities.”

So far, buckthorn has not impacted the forest product industry here, wildlife habitat or recreation, and the DNR would like to keep it that way. Bushwhacking to your favorite brook trout stream is tough enough through alder. It would be all but impossible through buckthorn, which is where private property owners come in—halting the spread.

“Buckthorn is typically more of a problem in and around towns in Northeast Minnesota,” said Baysal, “but it is definitely spreading. Some of the buckthorn population centers are located where a landowner planted buckthorn as a hedge 30-some years ago.”

Getting rid of it isn’t easy, though, containing its spread is somewhat more manageable.

“There is no law on the books that says you need to eradicate a population on your property, and buckthorn removal is relatively expensive, thus cost prohibitive for many folks. My advice is to remove small populations and seed producers first,” prompted Baysal. “They are the easiest to remove and prevents further spread. Then tackle the larger populations.”

Leaves of the non-native common and glossy buckthorn species, as well as the harmless native alder. | MINN DEPT OF AGRICULTURE

“Smaller shrubs can typically be handpulled,” continues Baysal. “As you get into older and larger buckthorn shrubs, they will need to be cut down and the stumps treated with an herbicide. Garlon4 and Pathfinder are typically what we use on forested stands (active ingredient for both is triclopyr). Pathfinder is a ready-to-use herbicide, whereas Garlon4 needs to be mixed prior to use. The best times to treat are late summer to early fall, as the shrubs are actively taking resources to the roots in anticipation of winter.”

There is a wealth of information on identifying and managing buckthorn on the Minnesota DNR website. If you suspect you have this invasive species on your property, or might have spotted it in the forest, a bit of time on their website will be a great help. View it at: bit.ly/buckthornmndnr.

Northern Wilds country may be at the leading edge of the spread of buckthorn, but it isn’t immune. To avoid the catastrophic problems experienced in parts of nearby Aitkin County, a lot of watchful eyes and willing hands will be needed, or it could become a real thorn in our side.

How to properly compost

By Rae Poynter

GRAND MARAIS—Why compost? Composting is a natural process whereby organic material such as yard clippings or food waste decomposes into a nutrient-rich mulch or additive to soil. Composting is a way to reuse waste rather than sending it into a landfill and also a way to help your plants get the nutrients they need to help them grow. It’s a win-win.

The basic building blocks of a compost pile are carbon and nitrogen. Carbon is found in almost all organic matter and should make up the bulk of your compost pile. Nitrogen is also crucial for composting, but should be added in lesser amounts. As a general rule, higher amounts of carbon are found in “browns” such as cardboard, newspaper, wood chips, and straw. Higher amounts of nitrogen are found in “greens” such as grass clippings, weeds, and vegetable scraps. The ideal ratio of carbon to nitrogen is about 30:1. Too much nitrogen and your pile may start to smell, while too little and the composting process will slow down.

Composting is a great way to reuse waste rather than sending it to a landfill. | STOCK

To get started, you will need some sort of compost container. This can be as simple as arranging some fallen logs into a box shape that you can use as a makeshift bin, or as complex as a full three-chambered system for different stages of decomposition. You can also use barrels or commercially built compost tumblers. Whichever of the many options you choose, you’ll want to keep your compost contained, and you’ll want to make sure your structure allows for air circulation. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, active composting happens when your compost pile is between 130 and 160 degrees. Your compost pile should be turned once or twice a month to prevent the center from cooling down too much. This can be done with a rake or can be done by rolling if your compost is in a barrel or a container specifically designed to be turned. (Keep this in mind when buying or building your structure.)

Much of the yard waste a typical homeowner encounters is compostable. This includes fallen leaves, grass clippings and weeds, all of which make a great start to your compost pile. When first starting, layer your compost and add a little bit of water to dampen the mix. From there you can add nitrogen: this can take the form of a compost starter which includes nitrogen and necessary microbes, or a lawn fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen. Either way, adding in nitrogen will help the bacteria that makes composting possible.

As you build your compost pile, you can continue adding new layers and adding water if needed to prevent it from drying out. For many people, composting is a great way to reduce the amount of food waste that ends up in landfills. Foods such as vegetables, fruits, coffee grounds, tea bags, nut shells and eggshells can be composted. Do not compost animal products such as meats or dairy products, or oils and other greasy foods—these can cause your pile to smell and can attract all sorts of wildlife, from flies to bears.

As your pile decomposes, the University of Minnesota Extension recommends starting new compost piles with new materials, rather than adding scraps to a pile that is mostly composted. During the summer, your compost pile should decompose within a few months. Composting is still possible in the winter, but there are a few things to keep in mind: first, remember that the need for balancing carbon and nitrogen remains the same. Since food scraps are nitrogen-rich, you will need to have a supply of carbon-rich browns to layer with food waste. Also be aware of the risk for too much moisture from snowfall in an open-air container; a covered compost tumbler works well for keeping excess moisture from snow out of your compost.

Once you have a fully decomposed pile, your compost will be about half of its original height and look like dirt, with no easily recognizable scraps. Mixing compost into your garden beds can provide a nutrient boost and help balance water drainage issues that can occur in sandy, rocky, or heavy clay soils. You can also add compost into the soil when planting trees and shrubs. Reusing the organic matter from your property is one of the easiest ways to care for the earth and enjoy a healthy garden in the process.