Getaways

Emerald Embrace

Oregon’s Central Cascades will feed your soul with its incredible beauty and offer you tantalizing visions of adventure.

Story and Photos by Kent & Charlene Krone

The 2,650-mile-long Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail (PCT) stretches from Mexico to Canada. Shown are flower-filled fields and North Sister Mountain on the PCT in Oregon’s Central Cascades.

Clad in emerald robes and capped with ermine stoles, Oregon’s Central Cascades rise to greet horse and rider. This area feeds one’s soul with its incredible beauty and offers tantalizing visions of adventures into a vast expanse of wilderness.

One August, we decided to explore this area, riding in the Three Sisters Wilderness area, Todd Creek Horse Camp, and the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail.

“Our first ride into the Three Sisters Wilderness area was an easy, scenic ridge ride,” note the Krones. “We headed north to Todd Lake. Just before the lake, we turned right at the trail junction onto Upper Todd Trail #34.” Left: Kent Krone and Buddy on Upper Todd Trail #34 with Mount Bachelor behind them. Right: Charlene and Scout descend from Upper Todd Trail #34 above Todd Lake with views to the meadows near Sparks Lake below.

The Krones’ first camp in the Three Sisters Wilderness area was Todd Creek Horse Camp, located 23 miles west of Bend, on the Cascade Highway. Adjacent to the camp is the Todd Lake Trailhead.

Three Sisters Wilderness

The Three Sisters Wilderness area, located in Willamette National Forest, is the crown jewel of the Central Cascades, with more than 242,000 acres and approximately 260 miles of trails. To get there, travel west from Bend, Oregon, on the spectacular Cascade Highway (State Hwy. 46).

Plan now for a summer adventure. This wilderness area is generally accessible from July to late fall, when the snow starts to fly. Snowfall may accumulate to depths of 20 feet at higher elevations; you might encounter snow on trails even during the first week of August.

In summer, this region is generally mild and sunny. Trail riders will appreciate the sunshine, lack of grizzly bears, geological formations, and well-marked trails.

Creekside Camp

We trailered in with our equine partners, Buddy and Scout, both Missouri Fox Trotter geldings. Our first camp in the Three Sisters Wilderness area was Todd Creek Horse Camp, located 23 miles west of Bend, on the Cascade Highway. Todd Creek runs along the east side of the camp. Adjacent to the camp is the Todd Lake Trailhead.

Horse camp facilities were more than adequate. The four-horse pipe corrals were well-maintained, and there was a water pump. Dead wood was easy to gather for an evening fire. And at this elevation, cozying close to a crackling blaze was the place to be at this 6,200-foot elevation camp. Even in August, there was a chill in the air.

Scenic Ridge Ride

Our first ride out of camp into the Three Sisters Wilderness area was an easy, scenic ridge ride. We headed north out of camp across the highway to Todd Lake. Just before the lake, we turned right at the trail junction onto Upper Todd Trail #34. It works its way up a ridge and past Todd Lake.

After several miles, we went right on Trail #11 and found ourselves gazing in awe at Broken Top Mountain, elevation 9,175 feet. Wearing a ragged white mantel, Broken Top pierced the cloudless blue canopy with its jagged edges.

By turning, we could also see Mount Bachelor in its regal repose. In the distance was Sparks Lake, a glistening blue sapphire surrounded by green meadows. >>

“Foaming waterfalls roared as they flung themselves over rocky precipices into the crystal-clear Fall Creek,” write the Krones of the trail to Green Lakes. Here, Buddy takes a refreshing drink from the creek.

The trail to Green Lakes gradually climbs from 5,450 to 6,500 feet above sea level, then loops around the emerald waters, which are snuggled between South Sister Mountain and Broken Top, report the Krones. “Ancient lava flows abound here,” they write. Left: Charlene Krone at middle Green Lake. Right: Kent Krone at Green Lake with the 10,358-foot-elevation South Sister Mountain in the background. For our next ride, we trailered from Todd Creek Horse Camp about three miles west to the Green Lakes trailhead. This ride offers splendid scenery. We rode through a dense forest trail alongside Fall Creek. The trail was wide and shaded by protective arms of stately pines. Foaming waterfalls roared as they flung themselves over rocky precipices into the crystal-clear Fall Creek. The trail gradually climbs from 5,450 to 6,500 feet and loops around the Green Lakes, snuggled between South Sister Mountain and Broken Top. Ancient lava flows abound here. We rode past a monstrous lava flow that had come from South Sister Mountain, a 10,358-foot dormant volcano. One can only imagine the fiery inferno and explosions, indelible reminders of geologic history. After about four miles, we reached the Green Lakes. And yes, the Green Lakes are green, likely because they are framed with evergreens. At Upper Green Lake, we rested and had lunch. Another beautiful ride in this region is the Wickiup Plains ride. The trailhead is located about five miles west of Todd Creek Horse Camp. Be sure to take the side trail to the beautiful Sisters Mirror Lake.

In the western United States, the 2,650-mile-long Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail (PCT) stretches from Mexico to Canada. It runs along the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Mountains, wandering mostly through national forest and protected wilderness.

Trail elevation varies from a low of 140 feet at Cascade Locks, Oregon, to 13,153 feet at the summit of Forester Pass. One stunning and geologically interesting portion of the PCT is accessed from McKenzie Pass. From Sisters, Oregon, go west on State Hwy. 242. On this portion of the PCT, good horse camps are Sisters Cow Camp and Whispering Pine Horse Camp.

If you’re pulling a long trailer, check with the United States Forest Service before heading out on SH 242. We weren’t able to go this way because of highway construction. Instead, we drove to the Scott Pass trailhead.

From Sisters, go west on SH 242 about 5.5 miles, then turn south on Forest Service Rd. 1018. Go about 7 miles. Keep an eye out for Whispering Pine Horse Camp on your left. Turn right on Forest Rd. 1026. Scott Pass trailhead is about a mile ahead.

This is not an aesthetic trail up to the PCT! Riding through 3.5 miles of blister-beetle-decimated forest was depressing and dusty. When we reached the top of the pass, we emerged onto the PCT. Go right about 100 feet, and you can water your horses at South Matthieu Lake.

We headed south to Opie Dildock Pass, 4.2 miles down the trail. Much of our trail was composed of crushed lava. Plant life here is sparse and drought-resistant. Even in summer, slabs of snow lay scattered about like broken pottery shards.

Yapoah Crater, an imposing 6,737 feet above sea level, towered above us. Amazing views of North Sister Mountain (elevation 10,094 feet) and Middle Sister Mountain (elevation 10,053 feet) greeted us as we worked our way around the gigantic black-brown crater.

It’s a gradual climb up to the pass. After the trail makes a sharp switchback, you can see a frozen river of lava, called the Jerry Lava Flow, which is almost a mile wide. USR

Seasoned equestrian travelers Kent and Charlene Krone combine their interest in photojournalism with a passion for horses. They enjoy sharing their horseback adventures and equestrian-travel tips with fellow enthusiasts. “[The Pacific Crest Trail offers] amazing views of North Sister Mountain and Middle Sister Mountain,” share the Krones. Shown are Charlene Krone and Scout taking in the view.

The Krones camped at Sister’s Cow Camp to access the Pacific Crest Trail via the Scott Pass trailhead. Shown are the corrals and the Krones’ rig.