TRAVEL Susan Monshaw Shares Her Recent Visit To Positano, Italy Italy’s Amalfi coast on the Tyrrhean Sea has so many blessings of nature that the world can’t stay away. Sunny weather, breathtaking views, warm people and the most delicious food, usually sourced just steps from the terrace table where you’re enjoying it. Like so many of the beautiful coastal towns in the region, Positano grew from a tiny fishing village to one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe. The most important item to pack for your visit to Positano is comfortable shoes. Most of the central village is accessible only on foot and usually that trek involves many stone stairs, and sloping, cobblestone streets. Hotels, restaurants, and shops are all set into the steep hillside, making for an iconic view of the village, as if a giant spilled his Lego blocks from the top of the cliffs right down to the sea. Il San Pietro, one of the luxury hotels perched high on the cliff with commanding views of the Gulf of Salerno, is famous for its private rocky beach, daily boat tours for lucky guests, and respect for the natural environment. A shuttle bus takes you to the edge of town (the winding roads being too dangerous to walk) where you are on foot
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from there. It’s possible to take day trips to the ancient excavated Roman cities of Pompeii or Herculaneum, hike to the top of legendary Mount Vesuvius (Europe’s only active volcano), or ride the ferry to the famously chic island of Capri. For something a little different than the usual touristic fare, there is a hike along the Path of the Gods, and a lesson in southern Italian cuisine at Mamma Agata’s hidden kitchen in nearby Ravello.
For something a little different than the usual touristic fare, there is a hike along the Path of the Gods
Atmospheric is the only way to describe this truly hidden gem of a cookery school. Descend the stairs from the alleyway entrance and you are assaulted by a sensory overload. Before you, lies a vast view of the sparkling, blue sea, made even wider from this vantage point 1,000 feet above sea level. Terraced gardens march away below, featuring lemon and olive trees, grapevines, miles of tomatoes and all manner of vegetables. The scents of salty air, freshly cut grass and enticing aromas from the kitchen make your belly rumble. There is a huge terrace table, set with wine glasses and distinctive, locally handpainted dishes. Beyond that is a grassy area with lounge chairs, a small patio and a huge pizza oven. The sound of a cock crowing and church bells in the distance compete with our hostess Chiara Lima’s invitation and broad smile, “I hope you’re hungry”. What follows is six hours of bliss. Chiara, the youngest daughter of Mamma Agata and the fifth generation to cook and farm on the property, demonstrates how to make the perfect meatballs and eggplant parmigiana. She puts together a simple yet unforgettable tomato sauce for the Farmer’s
