Madame Jeanette by AMFI by Sion Boylan

Redefining the capital F of Fashion

I MAY NOT KNOW WHO YOU ARE, BUT I KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING.

YOU ARE?

AND BY PURCHASING THIS ISSUE YOU ARE HELPING THE INDUSTRY MAKE ITS FIRST HIGH-HEELED STEP TOWARDS A MORE SUSTAINABLE WAY OF PUBLISHING. ON-DEMAND PRINTING IS CURRENTLY THE MOST SUSTAINABLE OPTION IN PUBLISHING. YOUR CHOICE JUST SAVED A SHITLOAD OF TREES! WHICH MAKES YOU ALMOST AS AWESOME AS ME. YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE WELCOME, MADAME JEANETTE

Online Manager Daisy Gosen

Brand Managers Carolina Rueda Seline Verloop

Editorial Designers Sanne Huuskes Lana van den Heuvel

Creative Director Graphic Julia Oude Wesselink

Magazine Managers Jetty Wit Kennedy Maidment

Fashion Producers Elvi Roos Jessie Baltus

Creative Directors Barry Visser Julie-Anne de Galan

ARE

Fashion Editors Rose van Engelen Xinhong Zhang Inês Lopes

Fashion Director Gail van der Hoeven

Text Editors Sophie van Hasselt Loïs Van der Wildt

Text Manager Louise Kluit

Art Directors Joep Maasdam Magda Sokoloski

Editorial Manager Laura Meijnen

Editor-in-Chief Natasha Gintowt

Online Art Director Ruby Cruden Online Editor Marisol Reuter Online Creative Director Pleun van Baren Online Fashion Directors Danique Grosjean Lo Burgers Video Editors Marre Tramper Amber Mol 3D Design Director Isabel Janssen Sales and Marketing Manager Sion Boylan Event Manager Sarah Södersten

PR and Communication Olivia Szlagowski Jo-Ann van Logchem Eline Knobbout Nathalie Vleemingh Campaign Manager Rebeca Cooper Cross Media Manager Siân Samuel

Front Cover Photographer Sophie van Hasselt Back Cover Quote Mae West

JEANETTE On all offers, tenders and agreements made by Amsterdam Fashion Institute the conditions of Dutch Law apply. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher nor the authors accept any responsibility for damages, of any nature, resulting from the use of this information. The editors of Madame Jeanette have attempted to abide by all copyright. If someone believes they have copyright to any part of this magazine, contact AMFI Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Published by: AMFI - Amsterdam Fashion Institute Hogeschool van Amsterdam Mauritskade 11, 1091 GC, Amsterdam, The Netherlands 31 (0)20 595 4555, www.amfi.nl www.facebook.com/amsterdam-fashioninstitute

Printer: ABC - American Book Centre

MADAME

What’s small, fiery red in color and hot as hell? Wait - probably hotter - too hot to handle. No, not your red-headed cousin. It’s the Carolina Reaper! The hottest chili pepper to date. She’s the kind of pepper that’s nice to look at, but definitely not to touch. She might lure you in with her rough seduction and spiky appearance, but a touch alone will make you burst into tears. If you try tasting her, you’ll end up with spasms (not the good kind), shortness of breath and gassy reflux – ew.

PEPPER ALIVE

how you do boo?

THE SPICIEST

Me on the other hand… Well, I’m the newest pepper in town and I have a whole lot to offer. Different to Carolina, I’ll make you giggle, not cry. Some talk shit about me just ‘cause haters gonna hate. But that’s okay, I can’t hear them over my blaring vogue steez anyway. But you and I - we’re gonna get along great. You like me and I like me, so we have something in common already! I mean, why wouldn’t you? I’m your alter ego. You see, if I want something I go for it. I dare to speak up where others remain silent. If it doesn’t go my way, I simply turn it around and tailor it to my own liking. Speaking of tailoring... Don’t you just love the feeling of slipping into that new pair of perfectly fitted jeans that make your ass look so fucking nice? I have a serious crush on all things fashion, and I like to have fun with it - yes, I wear pink whenever I want (even if it’s not Wednesday). Socks and sandals? Why not. I hate prescribed fashion rules and stereotypes. I break them down and turn ’em around accordingly. The industry is taking itself too serious anyway, so why not have a little fun with it? Flip the script. For fashion’s sake.

I TURN FASHION AROUND AND TAILOR IT TO MY OWN LIKING

Rollin’ with me... people that dare to draw outside the lines and challenge the norm. Take Abbie Stirrup - a bold personality pushing the boundaries of not only her body, but also the industry. Then there’s Maison the Faux - the ultimate advocates of individual expression creating ‘human-wear’. Also in this issue... the most fashionable eggplant, a true Oreoganic relapse and a throwback to your high school yearbook. Say, are you getting your daily dose of vitamin D? The Dick-tionary is on page 98 if you can’t keep up. You’re welcome. Madame Jeanette

Let Me Upgrade You

114 Another Fashion Quicky

Wifey For lifey

110

Slay or Hide Away?

14 Stirrup is Stirring it Up

CON Dick-tio-nary

Reclaim the Throne

116

Do I Smell Something Fishy?

130

124

Change Your life. Forever

62 I am Generation Boycott

10 Leaders, Followers, Swallowers

Helvetica, The Ugg of Fonts

The Faces of Your Phases

Shop the Grads

Stoli bolli Darling?

Bite Your S(n)ack

DAS AND DAS NOT GUD

102

Pretty or Pretty Fucked Up?

Not so Guilty Pleasures

Cocktail Hour

Styles & Stripes

108

Are We Screwed?

TABLE

126

SAD SPELLED BACKWARDS IS

YOU SHOULDNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T BE SAD BECAUSE

142

Your Daily Dose of Vitamin D

Instafluential or Instaduh?

Check the Box?

TENTS 100 86 30 I Know About Maison-The-Faux's Week

Oreoganic Energy Balls

Pumpin the Big Noise in the 90s 9

Let’s be honest, nobody eats eggplants that much. Yet this purple dick-shaped vegetable is one of the most trending emojis in the world. And no it’s not just your dirty mind. It’s been vastly reported that people associate this innocent emoji with their favorite part of their boyfriend’s body. Of course Instagram blocked the eggplant emoji as a hashtag- just like they banned the nipples. So next time you’re searching for dickpics, you might want to use #cactus. Or go on Snapchat, of course.

Eggplant fetish

“

LEADERS, FOLLOWERS,

SWAL LOW TEXT Jetty Wit and Barry Visser

PHOTOGRAPHY Remco Sijtsema

MODELS Katharina Hein, Mila Reulink

Have you ever asked yourself why you follow trends? I have and I’m here to clarify it for you.

you seen that?

Why do you suddenly want bigger lips? Because Kylie Jenner said it looks better (#kyliejennerchallenge)? Why did Rihanna’s new racy photoshoot inspire you to get your nipple pierced (#freethenipple)? Or worse, why did you suddenly start to use the word ‘bae’ in a non-ironic way? (And no, using ‘bae’ is still not okay.) Well, ladies and other humans, this is because we like trends. When did we become celebrity following zombies who so desperately feel the need to be trendy in order to be liked and have a life? There’s actually a pretty solid theory behind this. According to a research done by ABC News, following trends is a mix of impulsiveness and emotions. The emotions behind following trends are desire and fear. When you’ve become aware of a new trend, you probably either loathe it or love it. The more people like it, AKA the “trendier” it becomes, the more likely you will jump on the trend bandwagon. Even when you don’t like a certain hype. Take the recent cultural appropriation hype surrounding dreads. All of a sudden your favorite vegan, organic, gluten-free food blogger starts wearing them, or even better, your celebrity crush (looking at you Justin Bieber). You will find yourself wondering if you could rock this island girl up-do, because these people are your influencers who have an impact on your taste. Those sneaky bastards have the power to trigger your desires, the desire to be like them or live up to their greatness.

ERS

However, not every trend starts in a musty office space. In the fast-paced internet savvy world we live in, individuals have greater potential to start trends. In this case, a trend originates when an ‘it’ person, a so-called “innovator”, has the balls to do something we’re not yet use to and it catches on. But sometimes these birth-givers of trends come from an unexpected angle. Remember the Damn Daniel video? (arguably the first viral trend of 2016) These guys single handedly made white Vans trendy again, so much so that they were sold out everywhere and prices on Ebay for the sk8er boi-approved sneaker went skyrocketing. Another recent example is Beyoncé’s new single ‘Formation, in which she mentions the US restaurant chain ‘Red Lobster’. The week following its release saw Red Lobster revenue up 20%. Bow down to the divine power of Queen B!

The interesting thing about trends is that they come and go, and then come back again. I bet you’ve heard your grandma say “I used to wear that when I was your age”. Those flared jeans your mom wore the day she met your dad are the same pants you wore on your first tinder date. Meanwhile, I’ve been praying for the return of the 80’s fanny pack (which is now only worn by tourists and hairdressers). When and why did we stop wearing those? I demand a comeback! Luckily G-star has granted my wishes by incorporating this iconic bag into their jeans. Bring on the comeback! Long story short, the world of trends is dynamic and full of surprises. I’m curious to see what the future has in store for us trend-following fashion victims. Keep in mind that following trends can be fun and make you stand out, but they can also make you look like everyone else, and I mean everyone else. Remember the Adidas Superstars? I bought them about two years ago in New York, when only a handful of bloggers wore them. About a year later, literally everyone, from your mom’s friend to your neighbour was rocking the casual Adidas classic. Which made me feel ashamed as somebody who applauds himself on having a distinctive sense of style. So stay objective, and keep wearing the things you want to wear, because who knows, you might just start a trend!

Clothing: Amazing Agency

Something you might not realize is that the fashion industry knows how to play with these feelings to make sure that you want to buy into new trends over and over again. Most fashion trends are created about 2 years ahead (yes, the ‘boho chic’ look made popular by stylist Rachel Zoe was probably the work of trend forecasters in an office in Manhattan a few years before people noticed it). It’s a pretty successful marketing strategy. Trends are created, designers design clothes, people of influence wear the clothes and soon enough there’s a knock-off from every retailer you can think of (usually around the time the next few trends have started). It’s a never-ending cycle of marketing success.

Art Direction: Julia Oude Wesselink and Lo Burgers

you seen that? Then we have fear, another emotion that makes us follow trends. I’m not talking about the type of fear you feel when you drop your phone in the toilet, but the fear of not fitting in. The theory behind this is simple. People need a sense of community; it’s a proven fact that we feel better when we’re a part of something. In order to belong to a certain community, there are a few unwritten rules one must follow. These can be rules about style, where you live, or about whether you pronounce tomato as ‘tomahto’ or ‘tomayto’. Since community is a dynamic thing that is influenced by trends, we fear that if we don’t follow trends we’ll become outsiders.

WHEN DID WE BECOME CELEBRITY FOLLOWING ZOMBIES WHO FEEL THE NEED TO FOLLOW TRENDS?

RECLAIM THE THRONE OT

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Iste

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m tS Oh on, Rin h tje res igh Oli esl s t age c r rs, cho icti hoo Ch o arro l i … n Na thi ces a s ru W tha ng h n-T l n e e ana dt r d gro as e ma y h l o f w e a u you n u shi re w r o o u p it. Y real and n jus as n tfit tha our c ize: th hella tice. Ao suc h as n on reati ey ju gorg ll s v f h e you ell d leek ity is t did ous, o ma r hig n't le and y fleek n’t ge h t r on shm . We t any ou su er b fla ackwallow aring one s re u fin nting ard jacke your teal ally you s, gli t, sh shi f tte e ir r t to e get l like butt c r sho t rt her you he . hav eks y s e y ou our

Rintje and Nosa are wearing Shirt 8x XL from Albert Cuypmarket

Left Nosa wears Hat via Vijzel Vintage, Suit by Bonne Suits x Piet Langeveld, Charro wears Top by Topman, Suit by Bonne Suits Right Rintje wears Blouse by Sandro, Pants by Weekday

Nosa wears Jacket via Episode, Shorts via Marbles Vintage

Left Rintje wears Suit by Bonne Suits, Jacket by Bonne Suits Right Charro wears Top by Weekday via Schoonden Boer PR, Leather pants via Kaufhaus

STYLING Rose van Engelen, Gail van der Hoeven

MUAH SiÃ´n Widmer

ART DIRECTION Joep Maasdam, Magdalena Sokoloski

Charro wears Top by Topman, Shorts by Weekday via Schoon den Boer PR. Shoes by Clarks

INSTAFLUENTIAL OR

IN ST A DUH?

TEXT Barry Visser PHOTOGRAPHY Sophie van Hasselt

Just like 90% of the people my age, I'm addicted to Instagram. Here are some ways to improve your chances of becoming an Instagram sensation...

Befriend the rich and famous Do you happen to be best friends with lip plumping sensation Kylie Jenner? Well, chances are you have more than a few million followers. Having a famous best friend proves to be one of the easiest ways to get online exposure. Just make sure they mention you in their pictures. The youngest Jenner has 60 million followers. Her BFF Jordyn, who’s famous for being Kylie’s friend, has 1 million followers. Not bad, huh?

you seen that?

Oh Fashion. Something about that word feels Oh so fashion. Something about that word feels so frivolous. But fashion is really important for the ‘gram, since it’s the perfect opportunity to show off your new limited edition Yeezys or the new Celine bag all the it-girls are wearing (ugh). For extra likes, use the hashtag #ootd when it comes to outfits. When somebody asks where you got your clothes, just say ‘‘...it’s vintage’’, in case somebody wants to steal your style.

Be pretty

The avo to your cado

Do you really think Kim Kardashian reached her status as one of the most followed ‘grammers on earth by posting pics of her cute kids? Uh-uh. Ding-dong, sex sells! If you are blessed with a good set of genes or have enough money to fake good genes, your chances of becoming an Instagram celeb are much greater than those of your potato-looking friends. Make sure to suck in your cheeks for those sharp defined cheekbones - no contour needed.

Nothing says ‘‘I love brunch and health’’ more than a plate of avocados smashed on toast. A perfectly cropped brunch shot is essential for Instagram fame. Be sure the brunch establishment has marble tables, for that aristocratic look. To change things up a bit you could also go for an açai bowl (still to this day, nobody knows how to pronounce it) or just French fries, because well, a French fry has never disappointed me.

Nice serves you likes

If you go for coffee, don’t just go for coffee. Make sure you go to a proper pretentious minimalist cafe with furniture that doesn’t seem to go together, but still goes together. Chances are there’s a bearded, flannelwearing, lumbersexual barista busting to make sure your fair trade, double shot, drip brew, low fat almond milk flat white comes with perfect latte art. If you’re lucky you might get panda bear shaped foam. Now that’s a triple-digit like cawfee shot!

Be nice!!! Respond to your comments!!! No need for genuine integrity here, just fake it till you make it. Since Instagram is a visually driven platform, it’s really just a great opportunity to be selfish and superficial. I do recommend sharing your juicy love stories in the description section. The more drama the better ;)

EasyJet for content

JUST SAY ‘‘...IT’S VINTAGE’’, IN CASE SOMEBODY WANTS TO STEAL YOUR STYLE

Capital F!!!

Minimalist Stockholm this week, artsy Paris the next, and a sun-drenched beach in Mykonos for good measure. True Instagram fame requires travel. Impress your followers with your cultural richness by visiting a yoga and meditation workshop. Or why not check out the local hipster eatery for that high-end social status, artisanal, gluten-free, vegan breadstick? Just be sure to turn your location settings on!

Go foam or go home

Floor whore Ever heard of the hashtag #Ihavethisthingwithfloors? It’s basically people taking pictures of their shoes with floors. But not just any type of floor, we’re talking beautifully coordinated bespoke tile pieces (got that high-end mosaic intellect steez? Aww yeah). For contrast, be sure to wear your fresh white sneakers. Nothing’s more effortless than a pair of clean white sneaks.

! ATTENTION, THIS PAGE IS VERY INSTAGRAMMABLE !

free personal prophecy

DO YOU HAVE WHAT IT TAKES TO BECOME INSTAFAMOUS? Could you live without Sunday brunch?

Are your drop dead gorgeous? OFCOURSE

Are you part of Taylor Swift's super femme fatale girl squad?

Is avocado the undeniable star of your weekly brunch? IS THIS EVEN A

YEAH!

I WISH

Is a day without posting a selfie a day wasted? FUCK YES

HMM, YES

MY MOM SAYS SO

Do you have that natural Jolie pout? DUH

I´D RATHER NOT

WHO?

QUESTION?

WHY NOT

SO 2015

Do you have a great personallity Do you have a thing with floors? OH, YES

FOR SURE

Oh no, no no no. You scare me a little. I think it’s time to discover your strengths gurl - I know you have it in you. Maybe horse riding? Grow your own food? Or just drink. Yeah, you’re good at that.

Are you planning on getting lip injections?

NOT REALLY

YES Ay mami! You equal star allure. No need to get educated in this field. You’re ready to take over the world!

WHAT DO YOU THINK, BITCH?

SAY WHAT?

BALLS

TEXT Barry Visser

PHOTOGRAPHY Sophie van Hasselt

Even if you think you don’t have room for snacks, there’s always room for organic energy balls. I can’t think of anything more delicious than these crunchy, gluten free balls of happiness. They’re naturally sweet, packed with B-vitamins and perfect to eat as a postworkout treat. With no refined sugar or dairy, they’ll help boost your immune system and are a natural source of antioxidants.

Ingredients

To make these macrobiotic tasty bites, you need: • 1 free-range barn fed organic egg • 1 cup gluten free almond teff flour pancake mix • 1 cup grass fed lactose free soy milk • 2 cups monounsaturated omega-3 almond oil • 5 sugar free buckwheat biscuits with a soymilk filling

Ps. Looks can be deceiving. How do you eat your oreo’s?

YOUR HEALTH HALO WILL GLEAM WHEN YOU PUT THEM IN YOUR MOUTH!

roflaarp

OR EO GA N IC E NE R GY

Instructions Heat the oil in a pan. Carefully combine the egg and the pancake mix. Grab a buckwheat biscuit and coat it with the pancake batter. Slowly roll each biscuit into the oil until you see a lovely golden brown color. Enjoy!

Meinou Heinis - Filippa K Makers

Despoina Markopoulou - "Human Bait"

Sammy Moonen - Olfactive Branding

Mirona Meseure - Pause, Relax & Think: Ten

Rosa van der Horst - UNITY COMMUNITY

Sylwia Skotnicka - Living in the World of Framing

Katy Grieve - The Alchemy of Body and Knit

Gerian Kavishe - Reconnected Roots

Romy Bresseleers - Monkihair

Karmen Samson - FOA. Centre

Madina Ahadi - Dance Up the Seven Veils

SHOP THE GRADS Madame Jeanette presents: top shelf AMFI graduates. The good, the better, and the insanely fabulous. They're now in purgatory between school life and real life and YOUcan get a sneak peek into their work. A shopping trip you won't be disappointed with. Have your pick! 33

Photography Marijke Groeneveld

Photography Sanne Kreijmborg

Photography Eva-Luna Schulte

1. Eva-Luna Schulte - Int. Fashion and Management - Gender blur - Generation Y and Z redefine gender. How will this influence fashion? evaluna.schulte@gmail.com 2. Romy Bresseleers - Fashion and Branding Monkihair: Monki’s newest line-extension in hair coloring, extensions and wigs. rbresseleers@gmail.com 3. Madina Ahadi - Fashion and Design - Dance up the Seven Veils - A lingerie collection inspired by different stories of the veil. 4. Sylwia Skotnicka - Int. Fashion and Design - Living in the World of Framing - a 2D and 3D collection focused what is outside the frame of a picture 5. Gerian Kavishe - Fashion and Design - Reconnected Roots - A collection about mixed Tanzanian and Dutch roots. Sometimes smoothly coming together and sometimes with a friction. 6. Rosa van der Horst - Fashion and Design - UNITY COMMUNITY - a 2D collection combining elements from African tribes and Dutch folkloristic costume.

Photography Daisy Von Dutch

Photography Liselotte Fleur

shop the grads

STEREOTYPE CHALLENGE

TEXT Marre Tramper

TEAM UP!

PHOTOGRAPHY Laura Knipsaels

Fashion and Branding graduate Yoeki de Bree noticed that there are lots of stereotypes around female soccer players. Why not create a collection just for those women as an H&M brand extension and break these stereotypes at the same time? Your graduation concept was fed by frustration. Tell me more about what brought out your inner Regina George!

I found out that the stereotypes around female soccer players are a big, fat lie. They’re more feminine than I am! I could relate to them more than expected and started looking up to these fierce ladies; I even wanted to be a part of their team! After hanging out with them, I found out the biggest frustration in female amateur soccer world; they always have to wear unflattering men’s- and sometimes even kids gear. yoekidebree@gmail.com

shop the grads

TIMELESS PIECES

PERSONALITY AS IDENTITY

1. Claudine Budel - Int. Fashion and Branding A fashion extension for Soho House as a response to the emergence of a new luxury destination wear market. 2. Corina van Dijk - Fashion and Design - Grow up A print collection inspired by her childhood and the ability to have fun and be a child again. design.corina@gmail.com 3. Mirona Meseure - Fashion and Design - Pause, Relax & Think: Ten - A collection focused on slowing down the current fast past world and going back to the roots of the products. 4. Jade Wilting - Int. Fashion and Management - Shirts from Sheets - Recycling textiles in South Africa, done by incorporating social development. Jadewilting@gmail.com

Photography Richard Rigby

Photography Bram Spaan

Photography Jade Wilting

3 3

TEXT Laura Meijnen

PHOTOGRAPHY Filmstill from campaign movie

Jazzmin Nilsson, a branding graduate, loves the Amsterdam street culture. Her target group research resulted in a campaign movie for Amsterdam based brand Bonne Suits. Is the Bonne Suit a new classic?

I’m positive it’ll be, yes. It responds to the frustration of the current retail environment in which the consumer’s offered too many options. Just wear your Bonne Suit, and you’re ready to go. You can wear it to the club, but you can also wear it to a job interview. The vision of the brand is also very current – the uniformity of the suit makes that it’s about nothing but your personality – this is the only thing that sets you apart from someone else wearing the exact same suit. jazzminnilsson@hotmail.com

Photography Thomas van Oorschot

shop the grads

UN SEEN LAYERS 3

1. Norma Vredegoor - Fashion and Management The Dutch lingerie market: there is space for a new ecological lingerie brand! normavredegoor@hotmail.com 2. Katy Grieve - Int. Fashion and Design - The Alchemy of Body and Knit - When body becomes dressed, dress becomes embodied. An investigation into where clothing ends and body begins. katy_Grieve@hotmail.com 3. Sammy Moonen - Fashion and Branding - Olfactive branding: scent as a branding tool. AMFI’s brand essence translated into a scent identity. oﬀice@sammymoonen.com 4. Despoina Markopoulou - Int. Fashion and Design - “Human Bait” Menswear collection is more of a mockery than a statement on how marketing is manipulating people into purchasing goods completely based on their labeling.

Photography Leon Valero

Photography Katy Grieve

RED GOWNS TEXT Amber Mol

COLLAGE Marlou Breuls

Marlou Breuls, a Fashion and Design graduate portrays an ode to multiculturalism by showcasing the fine line between provocation and acceptance in her collection. Tell me more about your collection!

My graduation collection´s about superficialities and nearsighted prejudices many people from small towns have about other cultures. The only color I use in my work is blood red. It represents sexuality and serves as a warning. The diversity of my fabrics show individualism and my prints are provocative. I made prints of dresses that show a lot of skin, and placed those prints on garments that are inspired by the burqa silhouette. I created one united collection of all these features that are opposite to one another. marlou-breuls@hotmail.com

Graphic Design Meinou Heinis

1. Iris te Wieske - Fashion and Branding - IKEA GARDEROB - a DIY clothing collection that offers the perfect basics. iris.te.wieske@hotmail.com 2. Karmen Samson - Fashion and Branding - FoA. Centre - A retail environment concept where the fashion product and fashion as a cultural science meet each other. karmensamson@live.nl 3. Meinoe Heinis - Fashion and Branding - Filippa K Makers - A short term sustainable solution to recycle Filippa K’s own plastic transport hangers into unique design objects. meinoe.h@hotmail.com 4. Gabriëlle Ibelings - Fashion and Branding - Laundry day - a lifestyle bar that combines food, fashion, sustainability and urban culture. gab.ibelings@gmail.com 5. Tamara Koch - Int. Fashion and Design - NEMESIS An athleisure collection entirely made using 3D virtual prototyping software. info@tamarakochdesign.com

1 Illustration Sandy van Helden

Photography/Illustration Tamara Koch

Photography Justine Leenarts

shop the grads

PRACTICAL MINDS

GTFO WITH FJÄLLRÄVEN ESC TEXT Inês Lopes

PHOTOGRAPHY Riet Lies

Madame Jeanette spoke to Fashion and Branding graduate Mafalda Haugsand, who is creating a whole new brand extension for Fjallraven. The new subline, Fjällräven ESC is designed for a new target group: the Neooutdoorsy creatives. Who are these Neooutdoorsy creatives?

The Neo-outdoorsy creatives are a group who use nature as a way to meditate and fuel their mind. This need to reconnect with nature is linked to their wellbeing. They don’t feel the necessity to do extreme sports in order to enjoy nature. They enjoy being outdoors by taking the bike to work or having a picnic in the park. augsand@me.com

welcome to purgatory

PRETTY OR PRETTY

FUCKED-UP WRITTEN BY Laura Meijnen

I sat down with Lena de Ligt - a Fashion and Management graduate who looked into the issues concerning gendered stereotyping in fashion advertising - to conjured up some truths.

WANT TO KNOW ALL ABOUT YOUR GRADUATION!

I’ve combined a HUGE passion for marketing and advertising with my interest in feminism. I asked myself... ‘What are all the problems in the stereotyping of genders in fashion advertising?’ And as I found out, there are so many!

MANY? EDUCATE ME, PLEASE!

The media often responds negatively to stereotyping and the advertising world is by no means exempt. Feminists are also not too keen on it. As long as people feel offended, I would consider it a problem. Also, advertising strategies are often based on segmentation. If you market to women, you show a sexy guy or the most beautiful woman imaginable. If you market to men, you show the sexiest woman you can find and position her as a sex symbol. Sex sells, or at least, people think it does, but there’s a change on the horizon.

HOW DO YOU KNOW THOUGH?

I researched generation Y, the fabulous internet generation, and looked into their perception of stereotypical ads vs. more gender neutral ads. I asked them... How do you think this is sexy? How do you think this is pretty? (and probably most importantly) How are these images shocking, harmful or of aesthetic appeal? I used their responses and analysed them in order to come to a conclusion.

AND? FEMINIST MUCH?

YES!!!! I mean, I’ve learned a lot during the process of my graduation but feminism has always been an interest. It’s not that I think women are better than men, but things are just not the way they should be when it comes to equality. There’s still a lot more to be done.

WHAT DOES FASHION MEAN TO YOU?

Fashion is like a form of art to me. Once I watched a fashion show and I almost cried just because I thought it was so beautiful… - Pretty dramatic huh?! Fashion is very important to me; it’s always been a way of exploring, displaying and developing my identity. Also, it allows me to show a lot of my creativity.

Turns out, our generation considers the controversial advertising done by brands such as Tom Ford and Victoria’s Secret as sexy and pretty, but not aesthetic.

THERE’S A FINE LINE BETWEEN PRETTY AND AESTHETIC RIGHT?

National Geographic can be pretty, but it’s not necessarily aesthetic. Aesthetic is a higher form of beauty to me. Like art.

BUT THEN AGAIN, SEX AND PRETTY SELLS, SO WHAT’S THE FUCKING DEAL?

It’s a limitation! If you show sexual, you’re less likely to be perceived as aesthetic. And Instagram made that quite an important part of success, right? I mean, porn is also not perceived as an aesthetic product.

tHen wHy on eaRtH is tHe industRy still doing it?

The industry can be so old school. They basically believe that giving up on segmentation means giving up on profits. For them, this way of advertising has always worked. However, segmentation strategies are out-dated – people in cities such as Amsterdam don’t give a shit. It’s no longer a big deal.

wHicH bRands do you like in teRms of adveRtising?

& Other Stories and Acne Studios. Acne has used the son of the CEO as a model of the women’s wear collection quite recently. That’s interesting. There are more brands that are headed in the right direction, but not enough, in my opinion.

but wHy isn’t feminism moRe fReQuently found in fasHion adveRtising? i mean, we all know beyonce; wHo Run tHe woRld?!

wHo sHould bReak tHe Rules moRe often?

Luxury brands!!! Louis Vuitton included Jayden Smith in their latest womenswear ad, but the true luxury brands are still not there yet. And Victoria’s Secret well, their image is just bullshit in my opinion. Brands that sell suits are also choosing the stereotypical representations. Looking at Tom Ford and SuitSupply, they do gender stereotyping for a living – what a way to earn money!

tHese bRands aRe cRaZy populaR, wHat’s wRong witH victoRia’s secRet?

They portray a monotone beauty ideal. The way they show the female, as a sexy kitten or a cute girl, is way too stereotyped and definitely not representative for normal human beings.

sex sells, or at least, PeoPle think it does

Wear beautiful clothing, but not at the expense of people and the environment. Being able to select by style and cut, but saying no to bulging wardrobes and fast fashion. Enjoy the feeling of new but without having to posses everything. That is the new fashionable according to LENA. Join us now and borrow your clothing at thé fashion library of Amsterdam. Show this add in the library and get your library card (€10,-) and the first month of your subscription for free! Love, LENA the fashion library

but it woRks foR tHeiR consumeR.

Yes, it does. I am not saying these brands need to disappear, I just wish they would become a smaller part of the industry. And what they’re portraying should be more diverse, in my opinion.

wHo is youR poweR-feminist?

Lena Dunham! (actress and writer of the series GIRLS) And Caitlin Moran (a British journalist and columnist). Powerwomen for sureeee!

How did youR opinion influence tHe ReseaRcH of youR tHesis?

I know that I have an especially strong opinion about this subject, but I looked at both sides of the story. I didn’t solely focus on gender studies, I also highlighted those who perceive these advertisements as a fantasy. My opinion did function as the start of my thesis – I saw a problem and wanted to know more about it.

wHo is youR alteR ego?

I would say a more creative and daring type of woman. I think my choice to be a fashion manager was a good one, but my alter ego is more confident about my creativity – let’s just say she was more present during my graduation than she was before.

so now, scHool’s out! any idea on wHat you’ll be doing now tHat you’ve officially enteRed adult life?

WWW.LENA-LIBRARY.COM | WESTERSTRAAT 174 H AMSTERDAM

A lot of brands are too scared to change. There are also consumers who really don’t care, and brands hold onto that. If you make profits the way you’ve been doing it for years, why change? Let’s look at SuitSupply as an example. They know us feminists too well and expect us to be angry. However they also know it will get them publicity for that exact same reason. They’re prepared and have all their arguments ready for battle.

Repeat after me.

NO CLUE! I’m currently juggling 3 part-time student jobs, but I’ll need a ‘real’ job eventually. One job. Not multiple. Probably more marketing directed, but nothing too serious - as long as I can still enjoy my alcohol and cigarettes every now and then, I’ll be happy.

talk the talk in purgatory

LET ME UPGRADE YOU TEXT Carolina Rueda

PHOTOGRAPHY Marta Musial

Think of all the synonyms for basic. International Design graduate Monia Antinori is NONE of those. Her work is just as eclectic as her personality. I WANT TO KNOW ABOUT YOUR GRADUATION COLLECTION!

The starting point of my work was my mom’s old wardrobe. Beginning with her wedding and honeymoon dresses as main inspiration. The final product of my graduation will be an upcycled 3D collection of 6 outfits made through the use of old fabrics and garments. My purpose is to demonstrate that through deconstruction, manipulations, handcrafts and modern techniques, thrown away clothes can become contemporary, enduring and unique. It was the way I was raised. In Italy we have a tradition of passing down clothes we use on special occasions and to respect them. I want to give continuity to these important pieces, for my mom, and to boost them with a modern twist. Plus, she was married in the 70s and that romantic feeling is back in fashion again.

SO WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE IN DRESS BETWEEN WEDDING AND HONEYMOON?

My mom had to be covered for her wedding. There were people watching and you can only show so much on those occasions. You can see the fabric for that dress is thicker and more conservative, while the other one not so much. The other one is see-through and provocative my mom was quite wild on her honeymoon.

WOULD YOU RATHER BE DRESSED AS A NUN FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE OR #FREETHENIPPLE ON A DAILY BASIS?

#freethenipple, definitely. Sorry but I wouldn’t be able to dress like a nun.

DESCRIBE YOUR IDEAL PAIR OF SHOES AND THE PERFECT OUTFIT FOR YOU.

(Raises leg out from under the table and shows off her silver peep toe clogs) - These are the ideal shoes, they are the perfect balance between style and comfort. I have long days and my main goal is to stay comfortable but I always love to feel a little taller. With these shoes I never get tired. I love them because they let me feel and look feminine without having to wear stilettos, you know? (I agree, why save your flashy [and absolutely adorable] fashion statements until after dark?)

WHAT SONG CAPTURES YOUR COLLECTION BEST?

There’s this song called Lady of the Flowers by Placebo. I like to listen to it when I’m working on the collection. The song feels dreamy and they talk about a lady that loves flowers. This collection is all about the beauty of women. It makes you think of love, sex and a whole bunch of mixed up emotions. 47

summeR oR winteR talk the talk in purgatory

Summer

tea oR coffee Coffee

vanilla oR cHocolate Chocolate / WHITE CHOCOLATE [we are basically soul sisters by now]

i will say one woRd and you tell wHat fiRst comes to youR mind o piZZa o amfi

Stress

o gRaduation Freedom

Illustration by Monia Antinori

My roots

Gucci

Yes! It definitely is. Throughout the semesters at AMFI we’re always completing projects that aren't necessarily very linked to ourselves, personally. You have to meet certain requirements and follow specific rules, so it doesn’t really let you relate to the collection to the fullest. This is me and I get to do what I love and what I feel like doing. This has helped me discover that I really like to recycle and layer up old clothes with new elements on them. Now I want to propose a different way of making fashion, in order to limit waste.

now tHat we know wHat's good… WHat would you RegaRd to be youR biggest fail in fasHion?

Oh my… really? (laughs) Well, the first thing that comes to mind is when I was around 13 – I was really into black. I mean, really really into it. I would dress black from head to toe, use very heavy eyeliner and wear fedora hats (at the time they were so not in). With time I started to dress more colorful and now I think I’ve found a balance I’m happy with.

White chocolate – pleasure

o madame jeanette

Super stylish woman, and she is so cool. Badass

How do you keep going wHen tHeRe’s no inspiRation left?

Over time, I’ve learnt that if it’s not working, it’s not going to work no matter how hard you try. What I do is, take a break, step outside and distract my mind with something else. I know it sounds weird but I try not to think about fashion. I also distract myself with sweets and ice cream, cuz, what’s better than that, right!? (Take note folks, wise words)

if tHis collection was a dRink, wHat would it be?

It would definitely be a Mojito, I love Mojitos. They remind me of summer and freedom - which is all I want right now. (Make that two!)

How many pins Have you lost since you staRted AMFI? A lot… maybe 3,000? I really don’t have a count for that but as an upcycle designer, I try to take extra care.

Models: Nathalie Bollen, Amber Bosma | MUAH: Simone van Dongen Dijk

is tHis youR favoRite pRoduction yet? and if so, wHy?

o cHocolate

Nadieh Baltus

Meinoe Heinis

Danial Ajtuganov

Rochelle Bambury

Gabrielle Ibelings

Monia Antinori

Stephanie Barten

Fleur Kalff

Britt Breider

Zoë Brands

Sammy Moonen

Marlou Breuls

Yoeki de Bree

Kathrin Mücke

Rachel Clay

Romy Bresseleers

Jazzmin Nilsson

Etienne Cootjans

Romy van Dam

Rowan Paul

Evie Cowan

Marleen Dekker

Lisan Pesch

Corina van Dijk

Marijn Edink

Niki van der Ploeg

Carina Feininger

Annabel van Eijk

Maartje Roozeboom

Roman Hoering

Mahsa Fartous

Karmen Samson

Judith Janssen

Kayleigh Ferron

Estelle Schreuder Goedheijt

Tamara Koch

Fenja Flormann

Robin Thiel

Marcella Lobo

Nadie van Gemert

Anne-Claire Versteeg

Sharon Marlisa

Jacklynn Gerritsen

Anneloes van der Vinne

Katharina Mayerhofer

Xana Harmsen

Iris te Wieske

Elly Pan

Mafalda Haugsand

Gina Willems

2016

o collab

GRADS OF

Linda Plaude Josephine Unrein Jiska Versteeg Zil Vostalová Laura van der Woerdt

SPONSORED

SEEN BY

CON

Nienke Adegeest

Iina Hietanen

Wai Sin

Rita Agbroko

Querine van den Hoek

Claudia Sleegers

Annelien Baas

Romy Hooghuis

Christina Smits

Martijn van der Bas

Isabel Jelli

Joanna Steffens

Tony Bensaïah

Austra Marta Jirgensone

Liselot Tegel

Sophie de Boer

Philippa Jones

Manon Tielbeek

Gaelle Le Boles

Pia Joosten

Inge Toornstra

Megan Bowie

Emi Kenny-Troughton

Quinten Vanpoucke

Kimberly Buis

Carolin Krings

Lauren van Veenendaal

Benjamin Böck

Lena de Ligt

Leonie Verbakel

Samantha de Clonie

Roy van der Linden

Milou Verheijen

Maclennan

Alda Magnúsdóttir

Michelle Verlaan

Laetitia Dechamps

Iris Moonen

Sandra Verwei

Lisa Djabbarpour Nami

Iris Moss

Silvia Vianello

Johannes Dreier

Michelle Nikelski

Norma Vredegoor

Tamara Eggen

Joris Noll

Marissa de Vries

Alex Einetter

Sabina Ringers

Katharina Weiss

Lotte Fidder

Nathalie Ritter

Jo Witte

Pien Geijtenbeek

Doménique Romme

Steven Witte

Lotte de Groot

Annabeth van Rooijen

Iris Zechut

Marie Haneveld

Kylie Röder

Madieke van der Zee

Kimberley Harleman

Chigany Schmitz

Lotte Zilvold

Eva-Luna Schulte

GRATS

Chilion Jolokia and Habanero Hotter, Healthier, Tastier! It’s not a new kind of sambal...Chilion is the new way of spice Experience the unique taste of the Ghost chili and Hungarian Kapia Paprika combination (95,6% peppers, and you know how Mme J feels about peppers)! Spice up your life with the smoky Habanero sauce made with juicy, homegrown tomatoes for a memorable dinner party!

www.premiumchili.nl

Embrace your inner hotness and upgrade your life with the finest ingredients, Mme J most definitely approves! How much spice can you handle? Mix it up and choose from 4 levels of heat with Chilion sauces.

Be sure to visit madamejeanette.me to find the recipe to Mme J’s signature dinner party dish made exclusively with Chilion sauces.

D PHOTOGRAPHY Oof Verschuren

MODELS Sascha Bunge, Tijs Creijghton

Amid a 2 hour and 50+ guys swipeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;athon, your concentration wanes and your finger does the unthinkable. Congratulations, you have a new match! Wait, that guy?! That tacky guy with the shirtless photo and visually palpable ego is your newest right swiped romantic interest. Having 3 panda points leaves no room for excuses. Go get ' em gurl!

Sascha wears Bra by Monki, Shirt by Gestuz via Cream PR

YOUR DAILY DOSE OF VITAMIN

Left Sascha wears Top by Topshop, Pants by iNDiViDUALS A/W16-17, Shoes are models own Right Jacket by iNDiViDUALS A/W16-17, Shoes by Topshop

Sascha wears Jacket and Dress by iNDiViDUALS A/W16-17 Tijs wears Jumper by Tommy Hilfiger via Iconic Studios, Trousers by Tony Cohen via Cream PR, Belt is stylists own

LOCATION The Exchange Hotel, Bar STOCK

MUAH Bas Aarts

STYLING Sarah Cheikh, InÃªs Lopes

ART DIRECTION Joep Maasdam, Magdalena Sokoloski

Left Sascha wears Dress by iNDiViDUALS S/S16, Shoes by Topshop, Tijs wears Shirt by Tommy Hilfiger via Iconic Studios, Glasses by Ace&Tate via Schoon den Boer PR, Belt is stylists own Right Sascha wears Two-Piece by iNDiViDUALS S/S16, Tijs wears Underwear by iNDiViDUALS A/W15, Socks by H&M, Glasses by Ace&Tate via Schoon den Boer PR

S(N) A CK

TEXT Siân Samuel

PHOTOGRAPHY Sophie van Hasselt

I’m wondering if whether spending a shitload of money on a designer bag is really the smart investment everyone makes it out to be. Or does it just leave you penniless and left with an item you feel you can’t even use?

Ok, so. Let me paint you a little picture. You’re 24, you still live with your parents and the only long term relationship you’ve had in the last 3 years has been with your cat. One thing however will make you feel like a real grown up… an obvious and non-discrete Louis Vuitton, Gucci or Prada handbag. Before you go out and splash your overdraft though, you need to know a few things. Let’s take a look at the pros and cons of buying designer. Pro: Your designer bag will feed your soul more than food. The 2 meters of Italian leather used to create a $7,000 fashion masterpiece is a better outcome for any dead cow than being thrown into a bolognese. Con: You’ll be living with your family for the next 20 years. That is unless they disown you first. If that happens you’ll be on the streets, but that’s fine, you’ll have your bag! A hauwt accessory AND a potential food source. Pro: There’s no better item to help flaunt your fullygrown, adult authority. Walking into a store, you’ll no longer be shot judging stares from sales assistants looking at your ripped t-shirt and holey shoes, because you’ll be carrying an accessory that’ll make it looked planned. They’ll ask you which Yeezy collection it’s from instead of telling you, “sorry we don’t have a shower you can use, but there’s a shelter around the corner.” Con: No one will believe it’s real. Girls at the office will crowd. They’ll sound amazed and excited when you flaunt it on Monday morning, but really, they’ll be checking if it has a 10-12 stitch count and whether the hardware is still polished and imperfection free. You’ll be faced with questions like “Honestly though, is it a fake? You can’t even afford lunch”. Conclusion? Buy the bag. Just leave the tags on so you can take it back in a month. You’re welcome.

Classic Baby Sac De Jour Bag by Yves Saint Laurent, tablewear by Zara Home

listen up

BITE MY

I AM GENERATION

B OY

C OTT “ Quality vs. quantity – We love cheap thrills

Are millennials tormenting the fashion industry? I asked the gen Y in my inner circle to spill the beans.

“There’s a need for clothing that appreciates a different body than the norm, however it’s the fact that the fashion industry has brainwashed us into thinking there’s only one beauty ideal that lead to the struggle brands are going through now to ‘fix’ it.”

“

listen up

Diversity demand – A matter of positive racism

“Everybody needs to be able to feel accepted. It’s a nice concept, but I’ve never really seen an advertisement where I’m like... oh, I can relate to this.”

“

“Often, it’s so extremely obvious they’re trying to pull some marketing tactic; it just becomes a little ridiculous. Like hello, I’m an intelligent human being, stop underestimating me.”

“I tweeted Topman saying my package didn’t arrive, minutes later they fixed my problem. I felt like I could literally ask for anything I wanted just because they wanted to keep their Twitter image intact.”

“

Phauxsumerism – From buyers to browsers “We’re more critical than the previous generation. We’re bombarded by products every second we spend online. It becomes a comparison game. I don’t want to settle for the first option when I know I can find that top in a better, cheaper version.” “I would go to Saint Laurent on a daily basis, try on everything, take some hot photos and then satisfyingly leave. Eventually I got kicked out because I wasn’t being a ‘good’ customer.” “If I’m honest, most of my closet consists of cheap stuff. I love pretending I’m wearing expensive shit, but actually it’s H&M knockoff. I see it as an art.”

“

PHOTOGRAPHY Joep Maasdam

“I don’t really care for fashion brands that try to communicate with me online. It’s not like they’re personally addressing me. I like that they’re putting in the effort, it’s just it often feels so disingenuous. They can’t really do anything right.”

“I would love to say that quality is the most important value of a fashion brand, however quality isn’t cheap. I think we’re the generation that’s thought to be lazy. We want maximum results through minimal effort. It’s like nobody studies and then everyone gets upset ‘cause they got low grades.”

“Last time I was in Weekday you could get a discount on jeans if you instagrammed them, so I was like whatever, threw them on, even though it wasn’t my style at all. I instantly deleted that photo after getting my promo. I’m not gonna destroy my image for being seen as a promotion tool.”

“

TEXT Loïs Van der Wildt

“

Online community – It’s complicated...

“It’s kinda funny cause if I really think about it, looks are the most important thing. It just has to look good. I strive to be unique so I like putting weird things together, yet ultimately you come across more expensive brands and they’re the most unique. But anyway, I’m broke so never mind.”

“To be honest, I couldn’t care less about the quality. I only wear my clothes for one season anyway.”

Okay, so millennials might be perceived as poor and lazy, but turns out they’re even more contradictory than Donny Trump himself. Yet, unlike any other generation they come forward and are not afraid to own up to anything. They’re the ones making the fashion industry work its ass off one selfie at a time, and while that might not necessarily be something to be proud of, it’s an investment in the change of a once rigid fashion system.

Nothing says ‘treat-yo-self’ more than a plate full of sushi deliciousness. The Japanese dish has become a pop-cult favorite. Everybody from your grandma to your history teacher, seems to be in love with the nori wrapped goodness. Sushi is becoming mainstream, so why not spice things up a bit? For around $300/ hour, you can hire a model to act as a human sushi plate. Something about this seems vaguely cannibalistic, and yet, I’m considering applying for the job.

Do I smell something fishy?

CHECK THE BOX? PHOTOGRAPHY Dilani Butink

MODELS Heidi van Dijk, Paul van der Zanden, Ruben du Burck, Lotte den Broek

Dear ‘I don’t know what box to check...’ people, the time has come to walk that copy cat street with pride. Scratch the image you have in your mind of my appearance. I switch, adapt, evolve; I can be you if I want to, and the next moment I’m him. Better to embrace all those blurred lines, like I did, instead of hiding away behind stereotypes. 69

Coat left to right by Samsoe&Samsoe, Vetements, Samsoe&Samsoe, Vetements via Ganbaroo PR, Jeans by A.G. Nauta Couture via SPRMRKT, Shoes left to right by Feraggio in colors: Bluejeans Blue, Lemon Yellow and Plum Purple, all â&#x201A;¬365

Left Jacket by Moontan, Dress by Tommy Hilfiger via Iconis Studio, Glasses by Ace&Tate via Schoon den Boer PR, Accessores by Ana Dyla via IMAGE PR Right Shirt by Jacquemus, Jeans by A.G. Nauta Couture via SPRMRKT

old

male

young

female

madame jeanette

MUAH Robin Eringaard, Paul van der Zanden, Jo-Ann van Logchem

straight

ART DIRECTION Joep Maasdam, Magdalena Sokoloski

fake

STYLING Xinhong Zhang

gay

LOCATION Palm Studios

Left Top by iNDiViDUALS A/W16-17, Jeans by A.G. Nauta Couture via SPRMRKT, Accessoires by Ana Dyla via IMAGE PR Right Top by iNDiViDUALS A/W16-17, Jeans by A.G. Nauta Couture via SPRMRKT, Accessoires by Ana Dyla via IMAGE PR

real

madame jeanette

STOLI BOLLI

DAR

Raise a glass to your Absolutely Fabulous alter-egos, Patsy Stone and Edina Monsoon.

TEXT Sion Boylan

Patsy and Eddy have graced the television screens of homes in Britain and across the world for the past 25 years, yet that’s no indication of my age! I sat down with Mandie Fletcher, acclaimed director of the recently released Ab Fab the Movie. With a bubbly Stoli Bolli in-hand (ICYMI: this is vodkaspiked Bollinger champagne) we ponder the thought that Patsy Stone and Edina Monsoon are the true strong women of fashion.

LI NG? Patsy and Eddy’s fundamental success is two-fold, so start taking notes.. Their total lack of modesty, coupled with the liquid confidencer to strip away any level of remorse - makes these characters nothing less than admirable.

‘I think it's their badness. We all have that side we keep under wraps so we appear amenable, friendly and likeable. They’ve free reign to behave appallingly and I think that's what makes them completely unique’ says Mandie.

Mandie launched in, bursting with pride and anticipation for the film's debut: “I bullied Jennifer into a writing a rollicking good story, and she’s come up trumps”. Jennifer Saunders wrote the screenplay and plays Eddy, and certainly shares the same admiration for their work and its history. She oozes compliments about Mandie: ‘She’s fast, she’s brilliant and, most crucially, she’s got a great sense of humor’.

Patsy has assumed a covetableposition, turning typecastypical female film roles upside-down. Cougar alert? Definitely, darling: ‘Patsy’s such a terrible predator when she sees a young man that she fancies! That’s really unusual in film. You’d typically see a man in that role, but to see Patsy doing this is just fabulous!’ Mandiesays laughing.

The jet-setter lifestyle of glitz and glamour to which Patsy and Eddy are accustomed certainly hasn’t petered out. Despite their harrowing age, the pair continue fueled by their lust for fame and alcohol: exclusive parties, the latest fashions, celebrity appearances and a four-figure Bollinger dependency that beats envy into even the most frugal of people The sassy duohasmoved into a less aspirational life stage, which will come to us all hun, even after all the facelifts andfillers. 'Patsy & Eddy completely lampooned Fashion and PR in the 90s’ says Mandie. ‘Now they’re somewhat obsolete because of today's social media and blogging, everybody’s a critic now. There used to be more respect for the doyens of fashion, whereas now, to be honest, everyone can have a crack at it’.

Left Patsy (Joanna Lumley) Right Eddy (Jennifer Saunders)

For Patsy and Eddy it's always been fries before guys, or whiskey before anything. A rule all ladies preach but more often should practice. The Ab Fab featurelength film kicks off in the South of France, where Patsy and Eddy seek respite froma paparazzi media storm spurned by accidentally pushingsupermodel Kate Moss, into the river Thames. To get back up on their feet the penniless pair flock to to the fabulously rich men of Cannes to fill the void and foot the bill for the Bollinger. ‘There just aren’t a lot of films written like this. It always seems a priority to have some sort of romantic attachment or liaison. Patsy and Eddy are extraordinarily bad girls. They egg each other on and it's something I think we can all appreciate’ Mandie asserts.

Left Eddy (Jennifer Saunders), Right Patsy (Joanna Lumley)

‘THEY’RE VERY MUCH PLAYING WITH THE FACT THAT THEY’RE BUT STILL ROLLING ALONG.’ Ab Fab’s specialquality has and always will be the fact that it’s lead by two extraordinarily strong women whoseem to give very few fucks. ‘Most women in films talk about the comings and goings of men, that's their role. Whereas Patsy and Eddy only talk about the men in the context of getting them to the places they want to go.. Really, it’s not about other people it’s about their friendship, and that’s universal. I think we all crave thatThere’s an idea that if you stay slim, stay made-up and stay blonde with age, you might still have a chance’ says Mandie. ‘Poor Eddy’s falling by the wayside’ she added tongue-in-cheek. Eddy'sunapologetic and brutally honest, and illogically this means oldness and fatness actually becomes her. ’We all agreed we had to play them older, we couldn’t pretend that they were still young. It would have been doing them a disservice. That would’ve been cutting corners’ says Mandie. ‘I think it was very important for the audience to see their change in stage of life. But of course Eddy and Patsy wouldn’t be Eddy and Patsy without hankering back to their glory days. It's a huge disappointment to Eddy, she wants this life back’. In distinctive seesaw effect, Eddy’s misfortune and self-induced loathing is foiled by Patsy’s slight success. ’I think Patsy resembles the modern female, but Eddy’s role in Fashion PR has become slightly useless, whereas Patsy’s still an editor at a fashion magazine. There’s still a small place for her and I think Eddy’s slightly lost.’ But if she's not lost, but just wandering? ‘Patsy looking the way she does is what makes her able to continue, Eddy is just getting fatter and older and it's all unraveling at the seams for her’ says Mandie with a naughty chuckle. Nothing’s more revealing than a critical compare and contrast and Kate Moss’ cameo in the film just adds to the cruelty of self-loathing. ‘I love Kate. She’s been told what to do all of her life. My approach was probably easier for her, she was given encouragement.’

‘Fashion can be a harsh world, whereas Film is a much kinder world than that.’ she added sincerely. Maybe I should consider a career change. The truth is that sometimes times are quite dark. The raw honesty Eddy and Patsy’ve shared with me this past quarter of a century is enough for me to crack a mere squint of appreciation - in true British fashion. So, to quote my spirit animal Edina Monsoon, ‘Cheer up world, it may never bloody happen!’ Chin Chin Darling. Clink.

Best moment on set: On a super-yacht in Cannes, exactly where Patsy and Eddy deserved to be. Bless them, bless them! Worst moment on set: Standing in West Kensington with 9 Supermodels, two of whom had to leave in under an hour and the camera truck was stuck in London traﬀic. It was just the most awful time! Take Mandy Fletcher's advice: ‘Wear what you want, say what you want and darling get on with it!

OLDER, LESS SUCCESSFUL IN LIFE,

The same goes for Ugg boots. We all HAVE to hate them. They’re said to be the most tacky fashion trend ever; agreed, they make you look like an urban astronaut. Those little brown boots make people drag their feet all lazy-like, look incredibly stupid, and as far away from sexy as they could possibly be. But shit, I don’t think I’ve worn anything so comfortable in my life! Just like Helvetica is the most comfortable font I know. Ya see ;) Why don’t we all just cut the crap, use the damn font, wear the ugly Uggs and focus on more relevant things, like how Kylie Jenner is only 18 and shitting on your whole life, or why there still aren’t separate bags for the different colors of M&M’s. You know, important things. Thank You. (yes this article is in Helvetica)

Helvetica and Uggs go hand in hand. To be totally honest, this might be the weirdest comparison I’ve ever made, but hang in there - let me explain. Helvetica. Let’s face it. We all hate that font, simply, because we have to. But why is it that we have to hate it so much? Everyone knows that when using Helvetica you’re never wrong, but also never right. This font is so overused I’m bound to have a seizure if I see it at a local coffee shop one more time (I’m talking to you hipster Eric). But secretly, I love it, and I know you do too. It’s a guilty pleasure, but let’s not get ahead of ourselves. We HAVE to think it sucks because everybody else does.

TEXT Julia Oude Wesselink

H E LV E T I C A , T H E U G G O F F O N T S

talk the talk TEXT Sarah Södersten

PHOTOGRAPHY Maaike Luyt

IRL they might be Sharvin Ramjan and Marc Roderwijn, but when the night falls they transform into the spicy, naughty club-performance duo Ramjan+Roderwijn.

When someone plays around with fashion characteristics and sassy alter-egos better than a fuck boy plays the field, you’d better believe, my undivided attention is set. I couldn’t do anything but fall hopelessly in love when I met the eye-catching Club Kids duo Ramjan+Roderwijn for a naughty cocktail in The Suicide Club. With their blue beards, glittery eyelashes and matching black and white Mickey Mouse outfits, the reason for their rise in the club scene seem as given as the fab in fabulous. After all, how could you not love something so lovable?

How was the concept of Ramjan+Roderwijn born?

M: We had just moved in together in a new apartment and we had no internet, no television... S: We were really, really bored. M: We had nothing but ourselves and some make-up. So we started to experiment with painting our beards, and suddenly we had this a-mazing look - And that’s how the signature Ramjan+Roderwijn beard concept was born!

S: At first our friends didn’t get it and told us to stop. So much hate! NO-BODY was a fan of The Beard. But we thought “Fuck you haters” and decided to wear it anyways. M: It didn’t really kick off until we wore it at this extravaganza party NOW&WOW. And now it’s our signature look and everyone loves it!

So tell me about your style... Does it go beyond The Beard?

S: We’re not drags but we’re not manly men either. Our style has developed to a feminine style born out of love of being weird and different. I hate using words like unique and different, but when we dress that’s the aim we have. Everyone dresses so normal in the Dutch club scene and we like to stand out. In the 80’s the club scene was so experimental and extreme. We are longing for the 80s in a way; groups like the original Club Kids will forever be an inspiration.

talk the talk

i don’t Have a beaRd but do you Reckon i could do tHat... witH like... otHeR body paRts?

M: The reason we went for the beard is that it’s already a masculine feature we wanted to play around with. It’s about having fun in your daily life - take something mundane, dye it and throw some glitter on it! Painting your pubes or something else wouldn’t have the same characteristics. You could always try it out, but it’s not something we would do. Instead we’re planning to create an army of weird performance girls with glittery beards.

wHen getting dRessed foR a nigHt out, wHeRe do you get youR inspiRation fRom?

S: From everything and everywhere. We might follow the theme of the party, but then again, sometimes we don’t care about the theme at all! We constantly think about new ways to dress, either we go shopping or we collaborate with a designer. One event we can show up dressed top-to-toe in Bas Kosters, the other one in some fish-net cat suits and Spanish circus jackets for less than $50. It doesn’t have to be expensive! Some looks are worth $10,000 and some are dead cheap. It’s not about the money you spend, it’s how you wear it! (Excuse me, bartender, there’s something wrong with this glass. It’s empty. Refill!)

sHaRvin, i Read an inteRview wHeRe you talked about youR cReative woRk wHeRe you expeRiment witH self-poRtRaits and naRcissism. is Ramjan+RodeRwijn essentially a commentaRy on youR peRsonalities?

M: Ramjan+Roderwijn is our alter ego. It’s not that we are someone completely different, it’s just a part of us that we’re amplifying. Really, the high points of Sharvin and Marc’s life are the low points of Ramjan+Roderwijn’s life. To step into an alter ego lets us explore the narcissistic part of our persona. An alter ego gives you the opportunity to be confronting. We’re naturally quite rebellious and we love making people feel uncomfortable. When people are the most uncomfortable they become the most honest, because they don’t know what to say when suddenly confronted.

an alter eGo GiVes You the oPPortunitY to be confrontinG

wHat’s youR best paRty memoRy?

S: We have loads of good memories, it’s so difficult to pick one! We like it when we get paid a lot and don’t have to do anything! (Both boys giggle and I can see myself in their mirrorglassed Dior shades - I look like I need a drink.) M: Jokes aside, we like it when things are settled and we feel welcomed to the party we’re promoting! If we feel comfortable, we go all out with our performance. It’s not that we need the VIP-treatment, but we prefer it. I like my own bottle of vodka. S: Once we were put up in a hidden room with a piano and I don’t know how it would all work out - I can’t play the piano and neither can Marc, but still it turned out to be such a nice party! We had vodka and we were happy.

wHat aRe youR diffeRences and How do you complement eacH otHeR?

S & M in unison: I’m more serious. S: OMG Marc, that’s so not true! I’m basically the control freak and I worry a lot. Marc keeps his cool and goes more with the flow. M: That’s true, I’m not serious at all - I’m the relaxed one. I have no control whatsoever. I’m so laidback. But that’s where the balance works between us! S: We know each other very well and our differences make us argue but we know deep down that we love each other. But sometimes I really hate you... you Bitch! (I’m breaking up the fight, there’s nothing you can’t solve with a few shots of tequila)

wHat would be tHe most teRRible outfit to be found dead in? wHat you die in will become youR gHost outfit foReveR afteR don’t you know.

S: Well I don’t think there’s anything we wouldn’t look fabulous in. To be honest I was thinking about maybe sweatpants, but then again - I would always look really cute in my matching Adidas outfit. M: We’ll be matching of course. S: But seriously, I wouldn’t want to be found in Uggs. Yuck. M: Or Birkenstocks! Or flip-flops worn in the city. Aaaarrh!! UG-LY. S&M: Uggs, Crocs, Birkenstocks! Oh my god, it’s a new song!

if you could pick one song to be tHe tHeme song of youR life, wHicH one would it be?

as self-pRoclaimed club kids I wondeR - wHat’s youR view on club fasHion today?

M: It’s ho-rri-ble. People just wear the same shit they wore that day, or the day before, or the day before that. I mean like, at least take a shower! There’s no glitter, no glamour these days. It doesn’t have to be super fancy but come on - do your best! Do something new or at least wear a clean shirt. S: But I feel that there’s either the people that blend in with the boring crowd or there’s people that really make an effort and stand out. These people get a lot of attention and they deserve it! Still, basic people should just make an effort. GET WITH THE FUCKIN PROGRAM! Hello...

so wHat makes a good paRty?

M: The atmosphere and the people! You want openminded, fun people. Performers are the extra treats on top, but the crowd is what keeps the party going. The tackiest parties can be fun, but only if people want to have fun. If you don’t want to have fun, just go home!

M: OMG - AAAH! Just any of Beyoncé’s songs. You can’t go wrong with any of her songs. We’ve been to her concert twice now - But if we have to pick one right now, it would be “Why don’t you love me?”

wHat instapost Have you Had enougH of?

S: Naked gay men. Don’t get me wrong, I love men, but I just hate the way we label and hashtag-shame nudity online. Compared to how people viewed nudity back in the days - a naked painting was art. Social media has made nudity into something so sexual and cheap. I saw that in a meme, btw. The point is that there are so many bad, standard photos that get so much attention when actually really good ones will get none. That’s my point. M: Point made.

so finally… wHat’s youR best HangoveR cuRe? god knows i’ll need it tomoRRow. i do susHi- piZZa- susHi. M: Orange juice is a must. A bit of food, movies, laying down all day and maybe order a curry at night. And then don’t go out. But a hangover is a switch, you can turn it off. If you keep thinking “I feel so horrible”, then you for sure will feel horrible. If you tell yourself you’re rested and fine it’s so much easier. Fake it till you make it!

PHOTOGRAPHY Sjoerd de Wit MODELS Demi via MaxModels, Hugo de Groot, Julie Gintowt

The 90s are much more than grunge, Doc Martens and double denim – they’re a feeling. A feeling of carefree, youthful rebelliousness. Good times, good times. Julie wears - Flipflops by Nike, Rings by Calvin Klein via UPR, all other items are vintage Hugo wears - Shoes by Dr. Martens via UPR, all other items are vintage Demi wears - Shoes by &Other Stories via Schoon den Boer PR, Watch D&G stylists own, Rings by Calvin Klein via UPR all other items are vintage

PUMPIN’ THE THE BIG BIG NOISE NOISE

90s 90s

OF OF THE THE

HIKE UP YOUR SKIRT A LITTLE MORE, SHOW YOUR WORLD TO ME Left Hugo wears Jacket by Goosecraft, all other items are vintage Right Hugo wears Jacket by Andrea Crews via Concrete PR, Shirt by Weekday via Schoon den Boer PR, Socks by Nike, Shoes by Dr. Martens via UPR, Rings by Calvin Klein via UPR, Jeans are vintage

Julie wears Polo Rosa W/ Embroidery by Nicopanda via Concrete, Instapump Fury by Reebok via Concrete Demi wears Lingerie Bomber Jacket by Nicopanda via Concrete, Ruffled Long Skirt by Nicopanda via Concrete, Bra by Weekday via Schoon den Boer PR, Glasses by Ace&Tate via Schoon den Boer PR

GUYS YOU KNOW YOU BETTER WATCH OUT SOME GIRLS, SOME GIRLS ARE ONLY ABOUT THAT THING, THAT THING, THAT THING

PHOTOGRAPHY Remco Sijtsema

TEXT Jetty Wit and Barry Visser

Left Demi wears a vintage cheerleader jersey Right Julie wears Top by &Other Stories via Schoon den Boer PR), Shorts via Marbles Vintage, Instapump Fury by Reebok via Concrete, Socks are vintage Hugo wears Jacket by JACKA, Pants by Adidas via Concrete, Air Footscape Magista Flyknit by Nike via Concrete, all other items are vintage

PRODUCTION Julia Oude Wesselink and Lo Burgers

GOTTA SLOW IT DOWN BABY, GOTTA HAVE SOME FUN

Demi wears Jacket by JACKA, top and pants are vintage Hugo wears Popeye Braccio De Ferro Sweatshirt by LC23 via Concrete Shorts by RHUMAA via IMAGE PR, Shoes by Dr. Martens via UPR

AND AS OUR LIVES CHANGE COME WHATEVER, WE WILL STILL BE FRIENDS FOREVER

YOU MAY HATE ME, BUT IT AINâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T NO LIE, BABY, BYE, BYE, BYE LOCATION Amsterdam Roest

STYLING Natasha Gintowt

MUAH Hanan Chadid, Jo-Ann van Logchem

ART DIRECTION Joep Maasdam, Magdalena Sokoloski

Demi wears Jacket by Goosecraft, Bra by Weekday via Schoon den Boer PR, Shorts are vintage

Damn gurl, no tea no shade, but your outfit puts the ugly in fugly.

Used in the context of speaking the truth without the intention to offend.

/noh tee, noh sheyd/

No Tea, No Shade

Damn gurl, these heels are so amazing I’ve gone flooded my basement!

Reference to when something is so amazing you “flood your basement”; a reference to when a woman is aroused and becomes “wet” in her vajayjay.

/flo-dud mai beys-muhnt/

Flooded my basement

Damn gurl, you did groceries all by yourself?! Your pussy's on fire!

An expression meaning to work hard and excel. To be awesome or outstanding. To work so hard that your vagina catches fire.

/poo s-ee awn fahyuh r/

Pussy on fire

Damn gurl, I’m hungry! Where’s that vitamin D at?

Used as a direct reference to male ejaculate, as well as indirectly to a penis, penises or sexual activity involving a penis.

/vahy-tuh-min dee/

Vitamin D

Damn gurl, this Jamba Juice queue is 10 deep and Rupaul starts in 5 minutes! Not today Satan, not today.

An expression denoting a state of such firm determination that not even Lucifer himself could stand in your way.

/not tuh-dey seyt-n, not tuh-dey/

Not today Satan, not today

Damn gurl, how long has it been?! Time to get rid of those panda points!

Referring to the number of months you haven't had sex. Each month this dry spell lasts you earn a panda point.

/pan-duh points/

Panda points

/DICK-TIONARY/

talk the talk

I KNOW ABOUT MAISON-THE- FAUX’S WEEK

How many litRes of coffee do you dRink?

favoRite tv sHows to watcH togetHeR?

Let’s see, so together we maybe drink 9 cups a day, so that’s 63 cups a week. Jeez.

Thinking of making your way into the fashion industry with your gay friend or your best frenemy? Maison the Faux’s Tessa de Boer and Joris Suk offer us some insights. wHat’s Maison tHe Faux’s coRe?

Self-expression. We try as much as we can to be an advocate of individual expression, as people are often hesitant and need that extra push to be who they aspire to be. Our brand sells human-wear; there are no restrictions in terms of race or gender. We also believe in ethical production, so strive to keep everything local and as sustainable as possible.

wHen and How did you meet?

We studied design together at Artez - a school that’s very much focused on pushing you as an individual. However, whenever we had the opportunity to work together, we really hit it off. We’re a typical case of opposites attract. We’re soul mates really.

How does a RegulaR week as paRtneRs in cRime look?

We spend a lot of time in our studio in Arnhem Besides individual meetings, we’re actually always there and even then it still feels like we’re doing everything together. That probably has to do with the fact that we live together as well.

How many ‘cReative diffeRences’ a week?

We don’t have a lot of those, and if we do we always solve them.

I wish I could say. We regularly do a marathon together, but usually it ends up with us watching a trashy show before we go to bed.

How many non-paRtneR days do you Have? 1, sometimes 2

A LOT! Maybe twice a meeting. We’re the type that finish each other’s sentences.

any sHaRed fasHion items?

Game of Thrones, Modern Family and classics like Will & Grace

We dress like brother and sister. Sometimes we share the basics but that’s about it.

in a week...

How many sHows did you visit togetHeR foR fasHion week?

favoRite tv sHows to watcH togetHeR?

How often do you say tHe same tHing at tHe same time? (jinx)

wHat is tHe RecoRd numbeR of episodes you’ve watcHed in a Row togetHeR?

TEXT Loïs Van der Wildt

Game of Thrones, Modern Family and classics like Will & Grace.

finally, any tips on fasHion paRtneR staRt-ups?

Stay rational. It’s very easy to take things personally. You have to make clear understandings and agree that everything you do is for the same purpose. Once that’s done, you’ll be good to go!

How many sHaRed cRusHes?

Now this is probably the only thing we don’t share, boyfriends

How many times do you wisH you’d neveR paRtneRed up? Never!

103

you are mme j

the

faces of your

phases TEXT Jetty Wit

Kristy

Heather

Hannah

“The best color in the whole world is the one that looks good on you”

“Some girls play with dolls.. real girls go riding”

“I had a zit so big that when I bend forward I got an instant headache”

Lindsey

Clementine

Alex

“I'm not a model”

"I look better than the person next to me"

“If I were a potato, I’d be a baked potato”

PHOTOGRAPHY Sophie van Hasselt

MODELS Alannah Kastanja Quentin, Elske Koenders, Lisa Koning, Angela Ovaa, Denise van Gent, Lisa Strootman

Remember the different looks of your teen years? Could you find yourself in one of those phases today?

Violet

Brad

“Should have burned this place down when I had the chance”

“Waking up is the second hardest thing in the morning”

Musthave item: Neon scrunchie. Ultimate Style icon: Lizzy McQuire Anthem of the moment: Christina Aguilera - Genie in a Bottle Duration: 3 months

wannabe skater girl Wait. You didn’t go through the punk skater girl phase?! Sorry girl, but you most certainly missed out! Avril Lavigne is your spirit animal and you almost faint during Fall Out Boy concerts. The go-to hang out is the skatepark to pick up guys with piercings and peroxided hair. You have multiple chains hanging from your baggy jeans, and actually even try skateboarding once or twice (resulting in tears and ruined Vans).

Musthave item: A horse (duh) Ultimate style icon: Scarlett Johansen in The Horse Whisperer Anthem of the moment: America – A Horse With No Name Duration: Till the moment you’re told you can’t have a horse :(

my little pony Diamonds are supposed to be a girl’s best friend, but no, a horse is better. The best thing about a horse obsession is that you’re allowed to look like a hot mess all the time. No make-up, hair in a ponytail, some riding boots and a t-shirt (preferably equine themed). You don’t even need wallpaper! Your walls are plastered with posters of your HBF (Horse Best Friend).

Left Dress by Zara, Button by Wolfware via Schoon den Boer PR, Cap by Denise van Galen Manege, Middle Jacket by MTWTFSS Weekday via Schoon den Boer PR, Top by Zara, Hair Pins by H&M, Accessoires are stylists own. Right Top and Cap by MTWTFSS Weekday via Schoon den Boer PR, Wrist Sweatband by Adidas. Location Studio Ferdinand

color vomit Wearing every possible color in your closet. Preferably highlighted with some sequined cut-offs and multiprimary stockings. Those Jelly sandals you wear to avoid getting rocks between your toes at the beach are everyday vogue. To finish the whole look; a single hi-vis hair extension glued to your skull.

Musthave item: Lip and/or eyebrow ring Ultimate style icon: Ashley Simpson in the early ‘00s Anthem of the moment: Sum 41 - Fatlip Duration: 2 weeks

grunchy crunchy gothic All black errthang. Black make-up isn’t only for your eyes (smoky eyes for daaays), but also your nails and lips. And, of course, your hair is darker than a moonless night. Contrary to the black on black on black aesthetic, your skin is porcelain pale (like, vampire grade). To finish, don’t wash your hair for a fortnight or two and you’re good to go!

Musthave item: Real leather Oxford shoes Ultimate style icon: Blair Waldorf. The queen of the high school Prep. Anthem of the moment: Taylor Swift –You belong with me Duration: Like.. a month

LOCATION Studio Ferdinand

MUAH Chehenaz Jahangier, Angela Loy

Magdalena Sokoloski

You know, preppy isn’t all about pleated skirts, school uniforms and headbands. No, it’s a lifestyle. It entails frequent trips to the mall and wearing tennis gear (despite having never actually played tennis in your life). Sleek and silky hair is also a must, plus you’ve watched Clueless a million times of course. The ultimate accessory..? Ivy League arm candy; preferably the country club golfy type.

STYLING Gail van der Hoeven, Jetty Wit

the preppy girl ART DIRECTION Joep Maasdam,

Musthave item: A Corset Ultimate style icon: Taylor Momsen Anthem of the moment: Marilyn Manson - The Beautiful People Duration: A week (you’ll miss sunlight too much)

Left Transparent Dress by Zara, Dress by &Other Stories via Schoon den Boer PR, Nailpolish by H&M, Accessoires stylists own. Right Cardigan by Zara, Blouse by &Other Stories via Schoon den Boer PR

(this lifestyle is expensive)

“VEGETARIAN”

PARTY MONSTER We all know the ever beautiful beauty shoots where models strike a fierce pose, flaunting the most expensive accessories and jewellery. It has turned into a curse, a spell far from reality that hardly anybody can attain. I am also guilty, yet I like to take on a more realistic vibe. Habits make you a true original, either good or bad, so why not flaunt them, be proud of those guilty pleasures.

Not so guilty pleasures

MODELS Eldridge Mullenhof, Nica Zomerdijk, Furgill Bonevacia

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Rik Wolswijk

OCTOPUSSY

Accessories by Ineke Otte via SO PR

LOCATION Session Productions, Maarssen

MUAH BY Leyla Kruijskamp, Eldridge Mullenhof

STYLING BY Gail van der Hoeven & Julie-Anne de Galan

CHAIN SMOKER

free personal prophecy quiz

SLAY

Now, don’t deny it, we have all dressed up for a crush before.Whether it’s for a date or just strutting the hallways at school (Doesn’t sound like you? Disregard this question you ladykiller and/or maneater). What’s your go-to technique? A. Showing some skin. B. Wearing something that accentuates my proudest assets. C. Information classified. D. Putting him/her to the test by showing up in sweatpants - If you can’t handle me in my sloppy Sunday outfit, you sure as hell don’t deserve me at my best.

HIDE 4 AWAY 1 You’ve got a job interview at your dream company. How long do you spend preparing your outfit? A. In the blink of an eye. I know the perfect outfit - try it on once and bingo! B. II go shopping a few days before and source the perfect outfit - complete with shoes and a fresh dose of SLAY. C. I spend the entire evening laying out possible combinations on my bed, all the while telling myself it’s what’s on the inside that counts. D. I have a last-minute closet rummage freak-out.

Find out whether you have the guts to express yourself like I do with my super scientific quiz. Let's roll.

TEXT AND STYLING Ruby Cruden

PHOTOGRAPHY Marina Coenen

MUAH Leyla Kruijskamp

Let’s throw in a trick question, shall we? If you had to pick one colour you had to wear for the rest of your life, what color would it be? A. The deepest of blacks - like your exe’s soul. B. Seductive ex-pornstar red. C. Barbie-on-acid pink. D. You can’t hold me down - I’ll wear whatever the hell I want!

Who was your homegirl in Mean Girls? A. Regina George before she went cuckoo. B. Gretchen Wieners (that is so fetch!). C. Cady Heron - started from the bottom now I slay. D. Janis Ian - If I want to wear a suit to prom, I wear a goddamn suit to prom.

Your sister’s getting married and she was clearly drunk when she picked the bridesmaids’ dresses. You look like a pastel mushroom from Alice in Wonderland. What do you do? A. I wear it, but destroy every camera I see. B. I refuse to wear it. This is clearly her way of rubbing in the fact I’m not in a relationship...Bitch. C. I sigh and wear it without further complaints, trusting that karma will get her some day. D. I make it work anyway and walk down the aisle as if I’ve got a catwalk show at 5.

113

You stare into your crystal ball (or glass of wine) and peer into the future. What do you see? A. As long as I’m happy, I don’t really care. B. The three F’s: Fierce, Fashionable and Filthy Rich. C. Somewhere between Kardashian meets Karl. D. Living with about 46 cats in a Little House on the Prairie-setting, knitting mitten gloves.

Now we’re talking. You’re definitely not afraid to express yourself and your one-of-a-kind style. You leave an impression everywhere you go. You’ve regularly got them twisted around your little finger with no effort all. Yas, yas, yas!

Finish the lyrics: Gucci Gucci, Louis Louis, Fendi Fendi, Prada… A. Basic bitches wear that shit so I don’t even botha. B. Give me all that luxury and I’ll be yelling ‘HOLLA’. C. I am wearing all those names while you dress like your motha. D. I need to do what now?

Damn girl, are you Cruella De Vil’s sister? Not only are you super confident about your style, you’ve got a master’s degree in throwing shade. Madame Jeanette bows to your outstanding self-confidence, but be careful not to let it go to your head.

Clothing: Time Machine Vintage

How do you respond to compliments on your outfit? A. I usually giggle and deny the compliment, but it makes me feel good for the rest of the day. B. I strike a pose, reply “I know”, whip my hair back and slow motion, explosion in background, action movie walk away. C. I thank them and offer a compliment in return, as a means of avoiding a long awkward stand, smile, say nothing moment. D. I assume they must be joking, start laughing incredibly loud and then run away.

21 - 30 points: Born ’n raised Diva

HOW WELL DO YOU SLAY?

D3 D3 D3 D0 D3 D0 D1 D1 D0 D0

11 - 20 points: Fierce Fella

C2 C1 C0 C1 C0 C2 C2 C3 C2 C3

free personal prophecy

Chin up honey! You often feel insecure about yourself, especially about your looks. Madame Jeanette strongly disagrees. Here’s the thing - if you don’t believe in yourself, how will you ever convince others? Without trying to sound like your mother, my advice is be proud of who you are and never try too hard to live up to other people’s expectations!

B0 B2 B1 B3 B2 B1 B3 B2 B3 B2

Which voice in your head is the strongest when you go shopping? A. Can I afford this? B. Better get a lawyer, it can’t be legal to look this good. C. It’d be best if I never run into my mom wearing this. Or my dad. Or any relative at all. D. Do they have this in black?

1 - 10 points: Shy Gal

1. A1 2. A0 3. A2 4. A2 5. A1 6. A3 7. A0 8. A0 9. A1 10. A1

It’s a wonderful day outside and you’re strolling through the city centre with your #squad. All of a sudden, your heel gets stuck in the pavement. In front of a packed terrace. You… A. Will probably fall face-down and turn as red as the bottom of a Louboutin. B. Panic, fall and act drunk, because you figure that would make an acceptable excuse. C. Turn your fall into a cartwheel, finish with a bow and embrace the applause. D. Nearly fall, start laughing incredibly loud and then run away.

115

ANOTHER FASHION

Q UI CK Y? TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY Sophie van Hasselt

STYLING Danielle Westwood

Fast fashion is like a one night stand; you quickly make a decision and the next day, you throw it away.

Model: Melinda Szepesi @ Wilhelmina Models | MUAH: Sian Kelly | Fashion Assistant: Annie Lunnon | Clothing: Bra: Miss Crofton Trousers: Antipodium Shoes: TOGA Pullaw

listen up

Queen of upcycling and founder/director of Fashion Revolution, Orsola de Castro stated, “‘prêt à jeter’ (ready-to-throw-away) pieces don’t stand the test of time, but it’s not so much because of their inferior quality – it’s because they don’t stand the test of love, we make no emotional investment when we buy them”. She might have a point. What happens when you give your shirt, found in a pile at Monki, a second chance? Will it become your match made in heaven? Last week I did it again. Quickly bought a dress at Zara to wear it when going up on a Tuesday. Five days later I took it back - turns out it didn’t look so fine in the photos. To be honest, this practice has become routine for me, and at its extreme, I’ll just throw new clothes under my bed because I’m too lazy to return them. But today, it hit me. Time flies like a bird that wants to steal the burger you are about to put in your mouth. So shouldn’t we drink our 85 cent bottom shelf beer with passion and have sex with uh… that guy, with true love? I could’ve puked when I heard my friend bragging about how her friend-with-benefits turned into a cheesy relationship. Sorry not sorry. I understand if you unfollow me, but I too fell in love. PUKE. But for

real, since the moment I treat it with care, give it time to adjust and love it deeply, it became something I’d never experienced before; a long term relationship. Netflix and chill, morning pancakes and it has the power to make me feel wonderful on a bad day. That’s right, I’m in love my $15 Topshop shirt. Physical attraction is an important part of love for most of us, but emotional love is separate from lust. This is why one-night stands don’t tend to lead to long-term relationships. Research proves that we live longer if we have a loving connection. Wanna fall in love? Switch off your inherit fight or flight response. American Physiologist Walter Bradford explains, “We’re like animals.. we react to threats by fighting or fleeing”. When you turn this off, you can love. So don’t run away baby! Take your time with the shirt you thought wasn’t your type after one night. You might experience something magical, true love doesn't cost much. Promise me, next time you are about to bring back your $20 dress from Zara, think about what I just told you. Keep it, make it smell like you, give it a chance to keep you warm and wonderful. Let’s take the fast out of fashion

117

talk the talk

STIRRUP IS STIRRING TEXT Natasha Gintowt

IMAGES Curtesy Abbie Stirrup

Fashion designer and performance artist Abbie Stirrup is pushing the boundaries of both her body and the fashion industry.

IT UP 119

talk the talk

i could make brands more fun - throw a bit of abbie in the mix

There she is, looking fly; white turtle neck, cute neon yellow dress, seafoam green hair, neon pink eyebrows...

i’m sensing a circus vibe. What’s up with that?

Since age 4 I did gymnastics at a really high level. By age 14 I was a national champion. I would train around 22 hours a week and even skip school to be at the gym. Trapeze performing, pushing my own limits, doing weird shit with my body - just like in a circus. Due to a knee injury at age 17 I had to cut gymnastics out of my life, which was quite a traumatic experience for me. I had no clue what to do with my life, until a friend told me about fashion school.

is circus still part of your life?

Yes, my designs have always had this exaggerated costumey vibe that connects with the circus, as opposed to something I would call fashion. I love the human body and seeing how far you can push it. At the moment, gymnastics and fashion are two separate worlds for me. The first year of my Masters at the Royal College of Arts is almost over. I’ve now figured out what I’m about - movement of the body mixed with costume and performance. I feel I have a recognisable aesthetic too - heavy use of colors and prints.

what does your ideal world look like?

can you tell me about ‘Abidas’?

It would be like Boom festival in Portugal. I went 2 years ago and let me tell you, I already think of myself as a open-minded and free person, but there was like me x 40,000. All very open minded people, doing crazy shit. There was an amazing energy in this place! I love the fact that all barriers dropped and there was no judgement; it was so amazing. That made me think... Why aren’t we all this open and liberal? Why do we have to confine to all these rules? All these fucking things?! I wanna inspire people!

Yes, that was great. Head designers of Originals at Adidas came into school because they needed people to design a football kit. As I specialise in movement, I was chosen to work with them. I could do whatever I wanted. By researching I realised all football gear feels like pyjamas. The fabrics they play sports in are all so slouchy. In my opinion it’s best to perform naked. But I couldn't just tell them that. I needed to design something. So I decided to make a psychedelic football catsuit that moves with the body. Dynamic, sleek, something that doesn't get in the way.

can you give me an example?

what happened next?

In my performance Body Movement Mark I explore the relationship between material and the naked body by painting my own naked body. That way I become one with my work of art. I want to show you can just get naked and do whatever the fuck you want! Life goes on.

I presented it to them and they loved the idea. Now they’re continuing to work on it.

ehh.. so they stole your idea?

(laughs). No, I’m going to be part of the process. It’s good to work on something that’s actually going to be a product. A lot of the time my work is very abstract. I make art - that’s where my heart lies - but for the first time I felt it was great to have a brief. I feel like sports brands are the forerunners of innovation in a sense. Yet what you see in the stores doesn't really represent that. I feel like there is room to develop even further. Maybe that could be my job! I could make brands more fun - throw a bit of Abbie in the mix. I’d love to do more work with other brands, but on the other hand, have you ever seen David Bowie’s video ‘Working for somebody else is like killing your soul’?

Of course we all agree with David, but sometimes you just need that degree or name on your CV, right?

True, and I guess with Adidas it was different because they were really searching for an original view on things, coming to our school and all. It’s not like I was a freelance designer appearing in their office. I’ll always try to push my ideas. If you believe in what you are, that’s what you do.

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talk the talk

you’Re ceRtainly expRessing youRself tHRougH youR clotHes and HaiR. wHy not pieRcings oR moRe tattoos?

tell me, amsteRdam oR london?

Amsterdam is really shocking in a way, because of that Dutch thing of being plane and simple. But on the other hand it’s also what I love about Amsterdam. No drama - everyone is fresh. In London, New York, people are intense. Amsterdam is a happy city, a friendly and nice place to live.

wHy tHe cHoice foR neon colouRs as opposed to softeR Hues? I’ve always been obsessed with colours; drawn to them. I didn’t realise it was abnormal to dress so colorful till I moved to The Netherlands where everyone was dressed in black. I feel empty inside when I see gray, black and white! I just REALLY love color. You know, I actually feel like I have a relationship with colour! Without it, my world would be shit.

no boyfRiend oR no coloR?

Oh gosh! No color ever again?! I would choose color. (gasps) I would be so miserable if I had a guy and no colour around me. He wouldn’t even stay with me, I’d be horrible!

NO BOYFRIEND OR NO COLOR? …. I THINK I WOULD CHOOSE COLOR!

Clothing and hair I can change whenever I want. It’s easily accessible. Getting a tattoo is more definitive and a big financial investment.

wHat’s next on youR HaiR agenda?

I really want multi coloured dreadlocks. But when I went to the salon to inquire the woman kind of laughed at me because of my hair length haha. (Abbie’s hair is about 3cm long) It would have to grow a bit more before being able to add the extensions.

wHat’s it like being a fasHion pRofessional? Definitely a love hate situation. I love the visual language of the lifestyle. I feel I can transfer a strong identity without using words. I like that I get to control what I get to look at or how someone else will look. It’s so important!

so wHat is it you Hate about tHe industRy?

It’s horribly outdated. The fashion industry still works like it did in the 20th century. Nothing is fucking moving forward; it’s just regenerating old shit. In the end it’s just about money, that makes me very angry; it makes me feel like the industry sucks out my soul. I’m not interested in making more shirts and trousers. There are enough really talented designers out there that do that really well. I don’t feel the need to compete with them in order to create more of that. I’m all about taking gymnastics and fashion and smashing them together!

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Aren't you tired of playing games in relationships? Well I sure as hell am! After the endlessly exhausting 'hard to get' thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a new dating trend and this is the most annoying one yet: 'benching'. Benching is a technique where somebody keeps in touch with you enough to stay on your radar, but fails to make any plans with you. They let your ass sit on a 'bench' until they actually need you (for a quick netflix and chill). This way they keep all options open. My advice: ditch the bitch. I'd much rather be drinking gin tonics than worrying about some guy who's playing little games, ain't nobody got time for that.

Queen of hearts

CHANGE YOUR LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY Jilbert Ebrahimi MUAH Jo-Ann van Logchem MODEL Danny van der Hoeven

STYLING Xinhong Zhang

ART DIRECTION Joep Maasdam, Magdalena Sokoloski

There’s a special moment which occurs in the life of a specially select few celebrities; the moment they become fashion designers. I absolutely love all the stuff they (of course) design completely on their own. To make life changing shopping easier for you, I’ve compiled concise bios of the 3 essential celeb brands that will have you living large and lavish. Forever.

FOR EV ER . Left: T-Shirt, Top and Pants by Zara, Shoes by Adidas Y-3 Right: T-Shirt by Zara, Jacket by Maharishi, Shorts by Weekday via Schoon den Boer, Shoes by Adidas Y-3

TEXT Nathalie Vleemingh

Fenty (Rihanna) Everything Rihanna touches turns to gold. Fenty is all we’ve wanted and more! For just $80, you can get yourself some Fenty slippers. BUT, these aren’t the kind of slippers your swimming teacher use to wear, or those oh so popular ones around the campsite. No. These are different. They’re the upgraded ones. Top shelf. Next level. They’re fur lined for ultimate fab impact! And, I suppose, to keep your feet warm. So luxurious. Currently they are available in three uber fashionable colors. Pink, white and black. Yes black, can you believe it?! Sooo unexpected and sooo not RiRi! Especially looking back to the not-black-at-all fall 2016 Fenty x Puma fashion show.

buy, buy, shop, shop

Ivy Park (Beyonce) This brand is simply a – m – a – z – i – n - g. Really. Queen Bey’s activewear label is changing the game in sportswear. Not only with highly innovative sport clothes like crop tops and leggings. But also by, as Topshop puts it, ‘...inspiring us to stay strong, healthy and happy – no matter what your sporting ability or body shape is’. I mean, did you see those insanely curvy girls in the commercial? Those flat bellies are definitely inspiring me to stay strong, healthy and happy. Because those flat bellies are totally relatable to all of us, right? I mean, none of us have a muffintop, obviously. So what are you waiting for? Get your fat ass off that couch and get inspired!

SORRY FOR THE REALNESS

Yeezy (Kanye West) Kanye just understands us. Totally. Imma let you finish, but I love his brand just as much as Kanye loves Kanye. From the clothing to the highly active and motivating fashion show. Sure, the price tag can be a little daunting, with single items going for around $2000. But hey! For that price you can look like a homeless person and have clothes that are designed by God himself. Sorry for the realness, but it does put things in perspective, right? Still a little too expensive for you? No problem, you can do it yourself! Just let your dog play with a sweater for a while et voilà - clothes touched by God. Ehh Kanye.

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ARE WE

S CREW

? TEXT Marisol Reuter

PHOTOGRAPHY Isabel Janssen

apocalipse now

With innovation in technology and science creating smart-ass machines with Artificial Intelligence (AI), I ask myself... will robots have taken over the world by the time fashion students graduate? The concept of AI is nothing new. For years now, robots with AI have been automating simple activities including packaging and driving. Yes ladies, you can now do your make-up while leaning back in your mini cooper.The future is now! AI is taking over driving, which is probably for the best anyway (robots aren’t programed to compute complex emotions like road rage). And for all of us who love to Netflix and chill with ‘Top picks for you’ – we can thank AI for that. The possibilities are boundless once you get to thinking about it. And that’s where it gets fucking scary.

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Scientists have programmed machines in a way that they use self-learning algorithms. Meaning our new hardware friends get smarter the more information they’re given. They can build up data and learn from it, so that they can make new, more efficient (and often unexpected) decisions. Some say they have the potential to exceed human intelligence - not that big of a deal given some people I know. But the one thing that still sets us apart from robots and makes us better workers is our ability to imagine, be creative, be intuitive and abstract. Machines can’t replace that, right? Short answer no. Long answer maybe. Let’s ponder how they could influence our jobs... Because of its complexity, AI can use all kinds of data and turn it into tangible products, even designs. Just like humans, imaginative processes in a robot’s head are a compilation of already existing objects, shapes, colors, smells, etc. AI is equally smart and can save previous information and spit it out in new creative ways; like an instantaneous memory library. The Google team has called this skill of generating unseen images ‘Inceptionism’ - inspired by the surreal action flick starring hottie Leo Dicaprio. Robot’s can therefore collect information about the latest runway images, patterns, colors, historical references, upcoming trends and the like, think for a few microseconds and tada! New design. This can result in moodboards, new patterns, and overall design concepts. What does this mean? The result will always be traceable back to rational and static data. Nevertheless, art and fashion are a result of emotions and subjectivity. They’re a personal view and opinion on subject matter such as society, gender blah blah. The fact that we use sewing machines, 3D printers and other industrial tech is of course nothing new. But, who shows these little minions how to work? Exactly, the designer him/herself. Or rather, their poorly paid employees. AI can also be fed current affairs, facts and stories, which it can then put into other words and write its own stories with. This is especially easy in dataheavy texts, such as with politics or sport. Who needs background knowledge of the greatest football scores and winners if a machine can simply tell you (quicker and more consistently accurate no less)? How does this apply to the oh-so creative writers amongst us? AI even has the potential to imitate human traits such as intuition, harmony and abstract thinking to