Ready To Roll

With eye-watering fuel prices at the pumps set to be with us for a while, there’s never been a better time to become reacquainted with our bikes, so we’ll see how we can prepare them for carefree family rides.

Routine bike jobs really aren’t too technical, as most non-electric bikes are designed to be easy to repair and maintain. Begin by carefully removing dried-on mud, etc. with clean water (if you’re tempted to use a pressure washer, keep the jet away from bearings). Once that’s done, dry the bike with some paper towel or clean rags and take a good look at everything, ideally indoors in the warm, where you can take your time; a dust sheet or bâche will protect the floor. Make a list of any areas of the bike in need of attention: things like frayed cables, worn brake blocks/pads and, of course, worn or flat tyres will be obvious enough.

Next it’s the turn of the unseen inner workings, which should all be moving smoothly and freely. Lift the front of the bike and give the wheel a spin then move it from side to side, to check for any play or roughness in the bearings. Now do the same checks on the pedal crank (or ‘bottom bracket’) bearings by turning them by hand as if backpedalling, which should also reveal any problems with the chain and gear cluster. Add any problems you find to your list of items needing attention.

If you’ve ridden your bike regularly and stored it somewhere dry over the winter then the list should be a short one, with little to do to prepare for summer rides. It’s inevitable, however, that in time some parts will wear or need adjustments, so we’ll look at simpler jobs you can do yourself with tools you probably already have to hand, plus less routine work you might also like to tackle, whether as a money-saving measure or for the simple pleasure of caring for your bike yourself and knowing how everything works. Either way, aim to keep things clean, to avoid introducing damaging grit – and if you’re dealing with anything fiddly take some photos with your phone camera as you go, so you’ll know exactly how it all fits together again.

TYRES & INNER TUBES

Cheap tyres will wear sooner and be more prone to punctures, but whatever your bike has, keep an eye on them and remove any sharp stone fragments you find in the treads. Another risk factor is riding on tyres which are underinflated, as hitting a stone or pothole can cause a ‘pinch puncture’ when the inner tube is pierced by the sharp edge of the wheel rim. Old-style latex tubes are particularly vulnerable and require more frequent pumping up to maintain pressure, so most bikes use butyl tubes. Now and then punctures will happen, though, so knowing how to repair or replace them will give peace of mind when you’re out riding –see How It’s Done.

SAFETY FIRST: BRAKES

Modern high-performance road and all-terrain bikes often use disc brakes, whose pads need regular checking (much easier on a bike than those on your car). If they show signs of major wear then fit new ones before they damage the discs. Replacement techniques vary according to the design. It’s more likely, though, that your bike will have ‘caliper’ or ‘Vee’ brakes whose replaceable pads squeeze the wheel rims, which must be clean for smooth, efficient braking. The pads are mounted through slots on the arms by either a threaded or plain post – they’re not interchangeable, so note which type your bike has. Threaded versions are secured by a single nut, either with a spanner or an Allen key – see the tools factfile. Slots on the arms permit up/down adjustments to align the pads with the wheel rim, and you can also swivel them, so clamp them securely to avoid them touching the tyres. Classic brake designs sit on a central bolt, which won’t need touching unless the pads aren’t releasing evenly. If that’s happening check that the securing nut is tight and has a locking washer to prevent the mounting bolt from loosening. If the washer is missing, replace it, centre the brake and tighten the nut. Many modern bikes use ‘Vee-brakes’, whose arms incorporate small adjustment screws to centre them – see How It’s Done (at the end). Finally, keep brakes clean and very lightly oiled if necessary, avoiding oil reaching the pads.

Chains

Chains are sturdy, but prone to picking up damaging grit and road dirt. Keep yours clean and well lubricated and you’ll avoid premature wear and the expense of replacement. To find out how to check yours for wear and if necessary fit a new one see How It’s Done.

Pedals

Plastic pedals with sealed bearings are nonserviceable but cheap to replace if they develop excessive play.

Older cup-and-cone bearing pedals need occasional oiling to keep them spinning freely. Right-hand pedals have right-hand threads, and left-hand ones are left-hand threaded.

Tools

The basics – and a few more, should you need them

ALLEN KEYS – a small set is cheaper than buying individual keys.

CABLE CUTTERS – a hacksaw cut is never clean.

CHAIN LINK EXTRACTOR – if your chain doesn’t have a clip-style joiner link.

CONE SPANNER – for cup-and-cone bearing servicing, see How It’s Done.

PUNCTURE REPAIR KIT with tyre levers (+ spare rubber solution).

SPANNERS & SCREWDRIVERS - flat and cross-head.

A BIKE STAND is a worth having if you plan to do regular bike maintenance, but if you want to turn the bike upside down for wheel and gear adjustments, ensure that the brake cables remain clear of the floor, to avoid damaging them.

Read the full article in our April issue...