8 minute read
Greener Getaways in SW France
Tired of long, costly drives and searching for somewhere to park? We reckon there’s a better way...
France is huge, and creating the vast road network we now take for granted was a monumental undertaking which took generations of workers many years to complete. That wasn’t the case for the railways, however, which attracted huge investment and which within a generation had spurred an unprecedented wave of economic development. They also inspired ordinary people to explore the wonders of their great nation. Happily, the greater part of the French rail network remains intact, offering us environmentally sustainable opportunities to do likewise, so let’s look at some of the best rail-served and bike-friendly getaway destinations. And since high summer is here, we’ll turn our attention towards the coast. Historic Bordeaux is well served by rail connections, and delivers all the vibrant, big city buzz you’re craving. It has also taken the bike-friendly concept to a whole new level, with over 1400km of bike lanes and dedicated itineraries for cyclists, plus free service points (with tools and tyre pumps) in popular locations. Space permitting, bikes can also travel free of charge on the tramway network during off-peak periods (9am – 4pm) or at any time for folding bikes. What’s more, on the first Sunday in each month (excluding January and August) you’ll find the heart of the city blissfully car-free, so you can discover things at your own pace. But what about the coast? Well, the elegant belle époque resort of Arcachon owes its very existence to the rail services from Bordeaux which were inaugurated in 1857. Today the journey by TER takes just 49min and passes through the pine forests of the Landes before reaching the southern shore of the famous bassin, where you’ll find 77km of cycle routes. While you’re here take a quick ferry ride across the bay from Arcachon to très chic Cap Ferret, an idyllic spot on the tip of a slender, sandy peninsula.
Alternatively, onward TER services from Bordeaux’s Gare Saint-Jean will take you to some tempting possibilities further south on the Basque coast, the most obvious being Biarritz. Here you can watch the surfers riding the mighty Atlantic rollers, discover the original Port des Pêcheurs, get eye-to-eye with fascinating sea creatures in the Art Déco ‘Musée de la Mer’ aquarium or gaze longingly at the window displays of Hermès and other celebrated boutiques. There’s fine fish and seafood dining, too, something you’ll also enjoy in nearby Bayonne, which you can reach by following a dedicated cycle route beside the coast and the Adour river. The city’s medieval heart looks startling in the summer sun, as does the Gothic Cathédrale Sainte-Marie. Don’t miss the Art Déco interior of the Galeries Lafayette department store, though, or sampling the delights of local specialist tea sellers and chocolatiers.
Relaxing with a view at Saint-Jean-de-Luz
A couple of stops further down the rail line from Bayonne are Saint-Jean-de-Luz and neighbouring Ciboure, two authentic Basque fishing ports with modest sandy beaches sheltered within a bay offering moorings and marina berths for leisure craft. You can cycle between them, and if you’re fit you can press on via the Corniche Basque to reach the magnificent sandy beaches and elegantly styled villas of Hendaye – or simply take the train. Either way, the colourful Basque resort and the old town will leave you in little doubt that tucked away just beyond the marina is the border with Spain.
Before we leave onward connections from Bordeaux, there’s another intriguing option if you feel like doing a circular tour by rail, with lots more away-from-it-all cycling country if you take or hire a bike. The TER line 42 leaves the Gare Saint-Jean and heads through the world-famous vineyards of the Médoc via Pauillac and Soulac-sur-Mer, another coastal resort developed by the railway company as a stylish getaway destination for wealthy families from Bordeaux. The largely flat landscape provides lots of relaxed cycling opportunities, or you can simply relax on one of the many stretches of golden, sandy beaches found on this unspoilt stretch of coastline.
Early morning at Biarritz
Train travel with a bike
SNCF offers a range of options for those travelling with bikes. Flexibility varies according to the rail service you wish to use. Probably the most interesting for most of us are TER regional trains on which your bike travels free of charge. Be aware, though, that spaces are limited and can’t be booked in advance, so arrive at the gare in good time for the best chance of finding a space, then just hang or place your bike in a designated area. For longer TGV journeys on Ouigo Train Classique or Intercités you can reserve a bike space for 10€ (or just 5€ on Ouigo if you use a bike travel bag).
NB: on all services you’ll be responsible for your bike at all times during the journey, and must avoid inconveniencing other travellers. Info: bit.ly/LMbikeonboard of relaxed cycling opportunities, or you can simply relax on one of the many stretches of golden, sandy beaches found on this unspoilt stretch of coastline.
Beyond Soulac the TER continues northwards to the Pointe de Grave, at the mouth of the Gironde, while in summer months you can transfer to a narrow-gauge tourist train and roll sedately for 7km or so through otherwise silent pine forests, with a well-surfaced cycle track for company. Just below the Pointe de Grave are the port of Le Verdon and the adjoining Port Médoc marina, whose quayside restaurants are perfect for a relaxed lunch. Le Verdon is the departure point for the frequent ferry service to Royan, from which you can take the train via Saintes and Cognac to Angoulême, thereby completing an enjoyable and completely car-free circular grand tour.
Saintes is another prime candidate for a rail-based getaway, since it sits around the midpoint of TER rail services between Bordeaux and La Rochelle. The upper section passes through attractive spots including the riverside market town of SaintSavinien and the fascinating historic former naval port of Rochefort. The latter preserves France’s very last transporter bridge, while rail-accessible Tonnay-Charente possesses one of Europe’s earliest suspension bridges, completed in 1842. Beyond Rochefort the line reaches St Laurent-de-la-Prée, from which a gentle bike ride will bring you to Fouras, with a casino, a choice of sandy beaches and a mighty fort built to defend Rochefort’s dockyards from seaward attack. Cycle on and you’ll reach the Pointe de la Fumée with a tidal causeway out to the haunting Fort Enet. Meanwhile, the TER route follows the Atlantic coastline via the deservedly popular resorts of Châtelaillon-Plage, Angoulins and Aytré before reaching La Rochelle, another bike-friendly break destination which is a delight to explore on two wheels. The routes are gentle enough, and between the vast marina of Les Minimes and the commercial port of La Pallice you’ll pass through places you would otherwise never discover. You needn’t stop there, of course. A bus service from the Gare de La Rochelle will take you to the Île de Ré, although for now at least, taking a bike isn’t possible. You could, however, always cycle across or hire a bike from one of the many rental points on the island, whose 110km of itineraries for cyclists allow you to escape the worst of the peak season road traffic.
Above La Rochelle the TER Nouvelle-Aquitaine line passes through Marans then enters the Pays de la Loire network en-route for La Rochesur-Yon (which has a connection for Les Sables d’Olonne), Nantes and beyond. Bear in mind, though, that
La Rochelle’s main rail links are from Angoulême and more importantly, Poitiers (via Niort), which carries both TER and TGV services.
The high-speed direct services allow travellers from Paris to reach La Rochelle in well under three hours, although we’re in the happy position of having a head start on them. While TER trains can’t compete for out-andout speed, they do offer much greater flexibility in the choice of locations served – plus we get to see a lot more of our great countryside, and can travel with a bike at no extra cost.
In the next issue of LIVING we’ll be heading inland and looking at more green getaway destinations.
Read the full feature in the Jun 2023 issue of Living Magazine
