Amsterdam Magazine no 16 - December 2011 by Amsterdam Magazine

€4.95

Ye�, I’� ��!

beyond windmills, wooden shoes and weed

m a g a z i n e

SHOPPING LIKE SANTA

THE BEST AREAS IN TOWN Churches revisited LOSING OUR RELIGION

10x OLIEBOLLEN!

Interview with Goldfish: ‘THE REINVENTION OF THE DJ’

And: Skylounge, Arjan Ederveen, Tattoo Museum, Norman Parkinson, Dutch A-Z, Taschen, Upcoming and more...

FEATURED SHOPPING LIKE SANTA

Where to buy the best Christmas presents

LOSING OUR RELIGION

Churches for purposes other than praising Jesus

16 19 22 66 30 38

43 51 59 68 81 46 52 60 6 8 10 15 48 70 74

INTERVIEW

MEET THE DUTCH: Comedian Arjan Ederveen STREET STYLE: This is how Amsterdam dresses UNLOCKING THE CITY: The inside scoop on Crafty Amsterdam GOLDFISH: Jazz, dance and definitively addictive

REPORTAGE

PIMP MY BIKE: Goblins and Dragons KNOCK KNOCK: The Collector

REVIEWED

MUSEUM CHECK: Tattoo Museum AMSTERDAM EATS: Rosa & Rita MAGNIFIED: Taschen WET YOUR WHISTLE: Skylounge

COLUMN

FRAMED: By Thomas Schlijper

ART & DESIGN

MADE IN HOLLAND: Feats per Minute EXPO: Norman Parkinson

THE GUIDE DUTCH A-Z

THE REGULAR

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR GET SOCIAL! HEADS-UP: News from the city

MORE...

DUTCH TREAT: Speculaas THE TEN: Best oliebollenkraampjes CAPTURED: What you missed last month UPCOMING: Events that mustn’t be missed

With 50,000 copies distributed each month, Amsterdam Magazine is the largest free English-language magazine in the Netherlands. Amsterdam Magazine is distributed at hundreds of locations in Amsterdam including many hotels, popular tourist attractions, restaurants, bars and shops.

Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly by Wereldwijt Publishing BV www.wereldwijt.com Amsterdam Magazine BV Herengracht 423 - sous 1017 BR Amsterdam The Netherlands +31 (0)20 8461690 info@amsterdam-magazine.com www.amsterdam-magazine.com twitter: amsterdammag facebook: amsterdammagazine Publishers: Linda Korver Wouter Wijtenburg Cees van der Steenstraten Editor in Chief: Mathilde Hoekstra mathilde@amsterdam-magazine.com

Letter from the Editor

Come on baby, light my fire

Art Director: Linda Korver linda@amsterdam-magazine.com

Grab your winter coat from your attic, bury your face under a

Proofreader: Johanna Thornton proof@amsterdam-magazine.com

before stepping out into the biting cold. Buy a whole bag of

Advertising Sales: Kris Soehawan kris@amsterdam-magazine.com +31 (0)6 30554599 Editorial Staff: Sarah Moore sarah@amsterdam-magazine.com Tim Hilhorst tim@amsterdam-magazine.com

thick scarf and pamper your feet with a comfy pair of boots Christmas gifts for your loved ones (our reporter Mike Peek tells you where to go on page 24). Then plop down in front of a cosy fireplace. This is Dutch gezelligheid as it should be. Here are five places that will keep you toasty warm:

Design: Nicky Falkenberg nicky@amsterdam-magazine.com

1) Once you get past the marvelous big dog occupying the

Fashion Director: Tommy Hagen fashion@amsterdam-magazine.com

the smell of burned wood make you hungry?

Finance Manager: Gerard Koelmans finance@amsterdam-magazine.com We’re open to any kind of internships! Email your request to linda@amsterdam-magazine.com Contributors Nicola Bozzi, Allison Guy, Brandon Hartley, Roy Laros, Mike Peek, Thomas Schlijper, Arun Sood, Marieke Verhoeven, Maurice Vermaas Special thanks to Tina Antman, Liat Azulay, Saskia van den Brink, Bustart, Arjan Ederveen, Gabby, Goldfish, Pieter Frank de Jong, Anouk Klerks, Ellen Kok, Patrick, Penelope Jane Porter, Lisa Russelman, Merel Slootheer, Addie Vassie, Albert Verlinde, Vince Cover: Thomas Schlijper Advertise with us! To find out on how you can get your message across to 100,000 international tourists each month, reach us by email at: sales@amsterdam-magazine.com or call our office on: +31 (0)20 8461690. Want to become a distributor? Amsterdam Magazine is published monthly (50,000 free copies). To discuss becoming one of our exclusive distribution locations, please contact us at info@ amsterdam-magazine.com. Distributed for free in the Netherlands

--------------------------------------------------------© Amsterdam Magazine B.V. 2011 Amsterdam Magazine is a registered trade name and publication. Neither the trade name nor the format may be used and/or reproduced, in any form by third parties. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of Amsterdam Magazine or its publishers. Amsterdam Magazine accepts no responsibility, legal or otherwise, for the accuracy of its content. ---------------------------------------------------------

entrance there’s a huge fireplace at Pont 13. And boy, doesn’t 2) Order a cognac and feel like a millionaire at the Dylan alongside Keizersgracht 3) Grab a pint and throw some darts at Irish bar Tara on Rokin 4) Slam a cocktail (or two) at Marquee in Utrechtsestraat 5) More alternative, but no less fun is Westergasterras: A nice place in summer that’s even better in winter - if you can score a seat next to the fireplace, that is See you there!

Mathilde Hoekstra, Editor in Chief

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SOCIAL MEDIA

GET SOCIAL!

& WIN!

When we’re not busy making funky fresh magazines, we like to get social with our readers online. Besides chatting, gossiping, debating and flirting, we also like to give away prizes. Join our Facebook or Twitter page to get hold of any of these great giveaways!

VIP GIVEAWAY Midnight Freaks Club Air, Amsterdam January 6 2011

A dinner for two at la-brochette.nl, 4 Entrance tickets, a VIP table with a bottle + mixer and a brand new set of boxers by Muchachomalo. Line up: (among others) Julietta, Ferro & Daan Honk, Prunk. Does that sound like your kind of night? Go to Facebook and Twitter and win!

HOW TO WIN? FIND OUT ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER!

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/AMSTERDAMMAG FACEBOOK.COM

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/AMSTERDAMMAG a_world_blog: @amsterdammag Thanks for helping to “spread the gospel” of Halloween to the NL. It’s my fav holiday. Bananaboat_Pine: I’ve yet to find a great Chai latte in AMS that isn’t premix liquid +milk. Any suggestions @amsterdammag Darmomoda: @amsterdammag mydream VIP date is in an exclusive place yet chill & relax with delicate foods & drinks accompanied by pop electro msc Veronika Pitrova: Guys, any tips for some nice sauna(s) in Amsterdam? It is getting cold! 9

Amsterdam Magazine: Spa Zuiver is very nice!

David Beckett: Amsterdam is changing. I hate being one of those “it used be so great” moaners, but the changes in the last 4-5 years have been extreme. The city powersthat-be want a city like Vienna. Lovely place, but please follow the rules. That is not Amsterdam!

Heads-up news from the city

BY: TIM HILHORST

A’Dam petrol pump to the world

Amsterdam has become the largest gasoline port in the world after Vopak opened an enormous storage facility in the Afrikahaven. Amsterdam plays a central role in supplying the world market with gasoline; half of America drives on fuel once stored in our capital. In 2010, 37.5 million tonnes of fuel left Amsterdam for the open seas. Because of the new terminal Amsterdam will outgrow Singapore and Houston in terms of storage size. The facility will house up to 1.1 billion litres of oil products when the final units are completed in the latter half of 2012. Source: Parool.nl

Amsterdam

Unseen artifacts unveiled A 16th century wallet and ancient spears are just some of the 70,000 artifacts that are moving home. The Amsterdam Museum is relocating previously unseen collections to a secluded area in Amsterdam North. There the objects that have been collected by the council since the 15th century will be unveiled to the public for the first time. According to the head of collections at the Amsterdam Museum, ‘It is one of the finest historical collections of all time.’ The new facility cost €12m to build and will display 15 per cent of the total artifacts that are sourced from various locations around Amsterdam. Source: Parool.nl

The Tattican

Henk Schiffmacher (59), Amsterdam’s undisputed King of Ink, will be opening a new Tattoo Museum on the Plantage Middenlaan opposite Amsterdam’s Artis Zoo. The tattoo legend had previously opened a tattoo museum in the Red Light District, but a different approach is supposed to yield better results this time around. The museum will become an archive of all the tattoo cultures that are on the verge of disappearing. Philanthropist Jeannette Seret (68) invested €1.5m in the project with the hopes the museum would create over 300 new jobs. The archive dubbed ‘The Tattican’ contains an extensive library, a shop, workspaces for internationally renowned tattoo artists, a lounge and a garden area. Source: eropuit.blog.nl

magazine

Heineken’s brew: yellow to green Amsterdam’s quintessential yellow brew is going green. No it’s not St Paddy’s day just yet: Heineken is planning on building a windmill park to make their operation self-sufficient. The park is still in its infancy, as it stills needs to be approved by the Council of State and €1bn in funding is yet to be accounted for. Due to the uncertain circumstances of the park, the beer giant has a shortterm plan to build four windmills at its brewery in Zoetermeerwoude. This will take part (est. 1/3) of their operation and make it ‘green’. It remains unclear whether the colour of our favorite brew will be changing, too. Source: at5.nl

HEADS-UP

First ever Mini store

Car manufacturer Mini is opening its first brand store in the world. Watches, figurines and T-shirts, bicycles and even toy cars will go on sale at the store – everything except actual Minis. It will be the first to open in the renovated shopping gallery of the Hirshbuilding next to the American Hotel in Leidseplein. BMW chose Amsterdam for its firstever shop because they believe its hip and ‘not at all mainstream’, just like Mini. The company is hoping to show people that the Mini isn’t just one model, but a proper car manufacturer with multiple varieties.

Passing parking problems In order to remedy the growing parking problem in the capital, the council of Amsterdam is changing parking tariffs just inside the A10 highway that runs around Amsterdam. Commuters and tourists will be able to park their car just inside the ring for an entire day for one euro, so long as they park after rush-hour (10PM). The so-called P+R (park and travel) spots are designed for parking, and subsequent public transportation usage, or travel by bike. In its plans the council also included projects to create more spaces by utilising existing ones more efficiently. The plans should be realised by September. Source: Telegraaf.nl

Source: Parool.nl

HEADS-UP

Free WiFi for Anne Frank

To ease the burden of waiting in increasingly long lines the Anne Frank House has decided to open up their WiFi to patrons. Anyone with a smartphone or other WiFi gadgets will be able to connect to their network and browse the net for free. The museum received their millionth visitor three weeks earlier in the year than last year, which is cause for celebration. The organisation expects to set a new record for the amount of visitors, which will likely exceed 1,050,339. Eighty-five per cent of all visitors are young internationals. Source: Algemeendagblad.nl

Taxi-E: Electric taxis in Amsterdam New taxi company Taxi-E is fully kitted out with a fleet of entirely electric cars that provide an eco-friendly cab service. The company is launching their business with 20 Nissan LEAF cars equipped with Wi-Fi and tablet PCs. The intention is to target environmentally aware business people with luxury on their minds. They hope to grow to a fleet of 100 cars by first addressing the needs of big clients like accountancy firms and clothing companies based in Amsterdam. The rates for the eco-service will not be any higher than those of other taxi companies in the city. Source: zerauto.nl

Booming tourism

Tourism hasn’t been this booming in Amsterdam since 2007, according to the Central Bureau of Statistics (CBS). The organisation recorded almost 10 million overnight stays in 2010, an increase of 14 per cent compared to a growth of only seven per cent nationwide. The growth has continued into the first few months of 2011, although it stagnated slightly. Of all the overnight stays in the country 29 per cent were hosted in the capital. The CBS attributes the trends to intercontinental tourism, SAIL and a rapidly growing hotel industry.

Axing the arts The council of Amsterdam will cut €6.5m in subsidies to cultural institutions in the capital, according to Carolien Gehreisa, a city alderman. Some 13 institutions will be affected by the new policy, although all will retain some form of subsidy. The idea is for large cultural institutions to prove their worth to the city, to acquire more funding on their own and to stimulate cultural entrepreneurialism. The city is choosing to cut from bigger institutions in order to save the smaller ones: preschoolers will receive one hour of music lessons a week starting in the 20131014 school year. Money will also be invested in children’s theatre, neighbourhood venues and local production houses. Source: Telegraaf.nl

Source: Parool.nl

DUTCH TREAT

Speculaas BY: ALLISON GUY

You may have already sampled some Dutch treats. If you’re brave you might have even tried a kroket or salty liquorice. But what about a Speculaas?

SPECULAAS

peculaas is a special, spicy treat that’s most popular during the December holidays. Most familiar to foreigners as ‘windmill cookies’, these crisp, buttery biscuits are fragrant with cinnamon, ginger and other spices. They owe their distinct flavour to the shiploads of Asian spices that were traded in Holland during the 17th century.

Speculaas spices can be hard to find outside of the Netherlands and Belgium, but making your own custom mix at home is just a matter of buying the right spices.

S TRY THI ! AT H O M E

FLIRTING The name speculaas may derive from the Latin word for mirror, speculum. The dough is usually pressed into hand-carved wooden moulds decorated with holiday pictures, windmills, ships or people. When the dough is cut away, it produces a mirror-image of the mould. Another possible origin for speculaas refers to another Latin word, speculator, part of a motto of Saint Nicolas, ‘he who sees all’. Saint Nicolas, better known in the Netherlands as Sinterklaas, is the reason for the speculaas spectacle on December 5, the saint’s special holiday. A common figure for speculaas is an over-sized vrijer or vrijster, the male and female form of ‘admirer’. Traditionally, young men would decorate these cookies with icing, even silver and gold leaf, and give them to the

Ingredients SPECULAAS SPICE MIX:

• • • •

1 tsp nutmeg 1/2 tsp ginger 1/4 tsp cardamom 1/4 tsp mace

Mix all the spices thoroughly girl of their fancy. This practice gives its name to the Dutch expression for flirting, iemand versieren, which literally means ‘to decorate someone’. SET YOUR CLOGS A popular variation of speculaas is the kruidnoot, a small, crunchy cookie that resembles its literal translation, ‘spice nut’. Kruidnoten can come plain or covered in chocolate or yoghurt, and only appear during the Sinterklaas season. Sinterklaas and his helpers, the Zwarte Pieten, often toss these cookies into throngs of adoring kids during holiday parades. On the morning of December 5, children might wake up to more cookies and presents the good saint has dropped in their shoes. If you set a pair of clogs outside your bedroom door, you might just get a gift of speculaas too!

FOR THE COOKIES:

• • • • • • • •

225g butter 220g sugar 50g brown sugar 50ml buttermilk 500g flour pinch of salt 20g baking powder 12g speculaas spice mix

Beat the butter with the sugar until fluffy. Add the buttermilk and mix thoroughly. Mix in the flour, salt, baking powder and spice mix and kneed it into a shiny dough. Put the dough in a plastic bag and let sit overnight in the refrigerator, allowing the flavours to develop. To form the cookies, either pack the dough into wooden speculaas moulds, roll it into a sheet and use cookie cutters, or form into small balls to make kruidnoten. Bake at 175C for 25 to 35 minutes, until the cookies turn a slightly darker shade of brown.

Eet smakelijk (Bon appétit!) 15

ACTOR, WRITER AND COMEDIAN ARJAN EDERVEEN TO HIS SOUND-ASSISTANT:

‘YOU SPOILED IT!’ By: Mathilde Hoekstra

Photo: Joris van Bennekom

MEET THE DUTCH

sk any Dutch grown up about television characters Theo en Thea and they’ll start screaming instantly. Some with delight: ‘I’m still dreaming of that castle made of snot balls!’ Others with disapproval: ‘What’s up with the big teeth?’

USE YOUR IMAGINATION As of November 3, this enfant terrible is back on stage and this time he’s going solo, hence the title Ederveenzaamheid (a combination of his name and the word eenzaamheid, meaning loneliness in Dutch).

Now Theo climbs the stage. Alone.

OPEN AIR In real life Theo is known as Arjan Ederveen,55, an actor who together with his better half Thea (actress Tosca Niterink) used to produce a lot of funny programmes like Kreatief met Kurk. This satiric show was broadcast by the somewhat alternative Dutch television channel VPRO and showed viewers how to be creative with cork. Ellen: ‘What’s the basic material today?’ Peter: ‘Today’s basic material is cork’ Ellen: ‘And what’s so tricky about cork?’ Peter: ‘Always cut in the right direction’ What started out as a joke - creating objects out of cork and making them seem very big and important - eventually made it into the prestigious Stedelijk Museum of Amsterdam. Quite an achievement! But there’s more to add to Ederveen’s list. The critically acclaimed series 30 Minuten (both written and acted by him), his appearance in children’s blockbuster Pietje Bell, the gardening programme Wroeten (ed., Digging) and a whole bunch of theatre plays, for example.

He handles heavy themes like nobody’s business He admits that he wanted to hire a decent cast, but due to government cuts on art and culture, he had to make a mood-board instead. ‘During the break you can all come up on stage and have a look at how the characters would have looked,’ he jokes. Until that moment people will have to use their imagination, paying close attention to the props. ‘Do you see this black and white checkered hat? This is Geertje. And these woolen socks? That’s her husband, a local politician with major sexual problems.’

let the phone ring. Now you spoiled the moment!’ Two bald guys (‘what magnificent type casting!’) are understudies and another man gets to play the role of Geertje’s psychiatrist. Ederveen: ‘When I touch my nose, it’s your cue to say the line.’ Man: ‘What line?’ Ederveen: ‘What do you think?’ Man: ‘What do you think?’ Ederveen: ‘That’s the line.’ An important line, because as it turns out opinions are useless anyway. Geertje - abandoned by her husband ‘because she talks too much about nothing’ - cries on her best friend Joke and fails to notice her illness. It’s only when Joke dies of cancer that Geertje realises that she has been selfish. And she’s not the only one. In fact, all characters just baffle along, telling the audience everything there is to know about their pathetic little lives. Luckily the dog Stuk (which translates to something like ‘nice piece of ass’) is a good listener. Ederveen’s one man show is a playful wink to the individual and the somewhat lonely society that the Netherlands has become. He uses humour to break the sadness and handles heavy themes like nobody’s business.

USELESS Front row visitors are not off the hook either. A lady is asked to help out with the light and sound effects - which obviously doesn’t go smoothly. ‘You stupid cunt!’ he shouts. ‘You forgot to

MORE INFO AND TICKETS:

WWW.NTK.NL

STREET STYLE

FANCY THAT!

Let’s face it, the Dutch are n’t famous for their se nse of fashio n. Here are three except ions to the ru le. by

: tim hilhor st Photograph y: Sarah Moor e

ENGLISH ECCENTRIC

Penelope Jane Porter (48)

OUTFIT: Shoes: A store in London Trousers: Zilch Coat: Armani Shirt: Massimo Dutti Belt: A store in Vienna Purse: Louis Vuitton Glasses: Vintage Max Mara HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR GENERAL STYLE, YOUR DAY-TO-DAY WEAR? I would say kind of English. It’s eccentric, relaxed and bohemian. But obviously now that I’m getting older it’s getting a little more sophisticated. WHAT’S YOUR OCCUPATION? Nothing at the moment. I’m thinking about setting something up on the internet. But what I used to do for many, many years was design lace for lingerie. YOU LIVE IN AMSTERDAM, BUT I’M GUESSING YOU’RE NOT FROM HERE ORIGINALLY? I’m originally from England, and I lived in New York for a long time. HOW DOES THE SHOPPING HERE COMPARE? (laughing)… it sucks! IS IT ALL BAD? I usually buy my clothes abroad, but when I do shop in Amsterdam it’s usually in the South: the Cornelis Schuytstraat in the boutique shops there. I like them because they’re less obviously branded and more offbeat. I also really like Zilch.

ALL IN THE FAMILY

Patrick (43), Vince (9) and Gabby (42) van de Poel

PATRICK: Jacket: H&M Shoes: Floris van Bommel VINCE: Jacket: Wehkamp (catalogue) Shoes: Converse Glasses: Ray Ban GABBY: Jacket: Shoeby Pants: Vanilia Bag: Wehkamp DO YOU GUYS LIKE THE SHOPPING SCENE IN AMSTERDAM? Patrick: Yes. We come to Amsterdam about two or three times a year. We’re from Geleen. THAT’S A LONG WAY, WHY SO FAR? Gabby: We really like Amsterdam for all the little shops and boutiques. The Nine Streets are great. We don’t like the big shops with the flashy brands. Patrick: Of course we do go to some of those shops, but what we like about Amsterdam is that there are a lot of these small places with offbeat stuff. LIKE WHERE? Gabby: I love Raak, I always like to walk around in there, but unfortunately it’s somewhat outside of my budget. Patrick: I really love River Island, they don’t have them everywhere in Holland. YOU SEEM TO HAVE VERY DIFFERENT STYLES, WHAT ARE YOU GOING FOR? Patrick: My general style is casual chic, sometimes a little more casual and sometimes a little more chic. Gabby: My style varies a lot too, sometimes I lean towards the rock side and other days it’s very chic. TO VINCE: DO YOU CHOOSE YOUR OWN CLOTHES OR DOES MUMMY HELP YOU SHOP? Vince: (shy and soft-spoken) ‘Mama’ helps a lot, but I chose the glasses myself.

Amsterdam

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STREET STYLE

MOHICAN CHIC

Anouk Klerks (22)

OUTFIT: Jacket: a very old H&M piece Shawl: H&M Glasses: Ralph Lauren Shoes: Kiboots Skirt: Homemade WHAT DO YOU DO? I study at the Fashion Academy. AND YOUR STYLE IS CALLED BIG-CITYPOCAHONTAS? My style is very girly normally. Today it’s a put together mess I know (laughing awkwardly). But it’s usually a mix of things. Bohemian or something… there’s a proper wording for it but I can’t seem to find it. PUTTING THOSE PATTERNS TOGETHER, IS THAT A PARTICULAR FASHION TRICK? Combining? (laughing) No, I just put on things I like, and my course requires me to know how to combine things. DO YOU EMPLOY A LOT OF THINGS YOU LEARN AT SCHOOL IN YOUR EVERYDAY LIFE? Yes definitely. I make my own stuff, too; I have a sewing machine at home. I made this skirt myself. DO YOU SELL YOUR STUFF? No not yet, maybe when I’m done with school. (Currently in her fourth year.) WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO SHOP? I really like shopping at the flea markets in Amsterdam. I also like River Island and I go to H&M and Zara a lot. The Nine Streets are really nice, lots of little vintage shops. The Noordermarkt on Monday is really great too.

UNLOCKING THE CITY

Crafty

unlocking the city

Style!

Allow our clued-up dam dwellers to help you unlock this city! In this issue, Sunday Market founders Saskia van den Brink and Lisa Russelman give us the inside scoop on Crafty Amsterdam. By: Sarah Moore

What do you think about the DIY arts scene in Amsterdam compared to other cities? Up until recently, the scene in Amsterdam only existed online or privately among small groups. In London, artisans have always been on the streets. The night markets in Southeast Asia also usually have traditional artisans creating anything and everything you can imagine. Amsterdam is now becoming more aware of the scene and artisans are beginning to come out with their work. The government is much more forthcoming with public spaces and funding than it used to be. What are the best places to shop for handmade gifts this Christmas? Kitsch Kitchen on the Rozengracht is a fun and colourful boutique perfect for small gifts. &Klevering is a great design shop in the centre if you’re looking for items from Dutch designers. Exota is a vintage shop in the Jordaan that started in the Noordermarkt and eventually evolved into a storefront. They have secondhand clothes as well as handmade knitwear.

Saskia van den Brink [41] & Lisa Russelman (41), CO-FOUNDERS OF THE SUNDAY MARKET

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What about gourmet food? Le Fournil is a wonderful French-inspired bakery in south Amsterdam. They have tasty fresh pastries and are a cut above other bakers in Amsterdam. The Pie Man has gotten pretty famous in the market scene lately. He sells traditional English pies with exotic fillings such as Thai chicken and spinach and feta. Salsamentum is a haven for salt lovers as you can find a variety of different salts hailing from Hawaii to India.

What neighbourhood in Amsterdam is the best for boutiques selling handmade wares? Jordaan and the Nine Streets are the classic boutique areas to get a lot of handmade gifts. It used to be all funky vintage items, but it’s slowly becoming more established with bigger brands. My favourite street for handmade gifts is the Haarlemmerstraat. They have amazing vintage shops, design boutiques and gourmet foods. Check Your Oil is a brilliant shop selling a variety of cooking oils. Het Grote Avontuur is a beautiful interior design and style shop that sells stationary and paper goods with a feminine touch. Do you think the artisan culture is here to stay? Online shopping really kick-started the movement and now that people don’t need storefronts or big corporations to showcase their work, the scene has exploded. The internet and globalisation has made it possible for anyone to sell their art so I think it will continue to grow.

Sunday Market is a monthly market that features design, art, fashion and food from local artisans. Their Funky Sinterklaas Market will be held on Sunday December 4 and the Funky Christmas market will be held on December 18. For more information, visit sundaymarket.nl

SHOPPING like Santa

FEATURED

Imagine you’re Santa Claus, �lying over Amsterdam in a fancy reindeer-powered sled. Where would you go to buy the best Christmas presents in town? By: Mike Peek

msterdam has numerous shopping districts for every taste and budget. Perhaps the best-known is the Kalverstraat and its surroundings. Located just off Dam Square, this is a hotspot for most tourists, though the selection of shops is pretty mainstream and can be found in any mid-sized town. Most unique is Fame, an old school music (and movies) store with knowledgeable staff and a very decent collection of world music and jazz records. Unfortunately, fierce competition from illegal downloading and online shops has forced Fame to close shop at the end of January. The good news: you’ll probably find real steals here in the next two months!

The always-crowded Kalverstraat caters to the masses.

The Kalverstraat is in the centre of old Amsterdam and clearly caters to the masses. If you have slightly more expensive taste and a credit card begging to be maxed out, head to one of the areas on the next page.

HEY BIG SPENDER!

P.C. HOOFTSRAAT TASCHEN LOUIS VUITTON

You certainly won’t find a Hennis and Mauritz superstore at the P.C. Hooftstraat, one of the most exclusive residential and shopping districts in the Netherlands. Just south of the city centre, near Vondelpark, this is where Dutch celebrities and the nouveau riche go to get a watch from Cartier and drink coffee at Caffepc. Seeing and being seen is almost as important here as buying the perfect Christmas outfit.

Seeing and being seen is almost as important as buying the perfect Christmas outfit ‘De P.C.’, as it is commonly known, is the place to be if you’re looking for tailor-made clothing by world renowned designers. Ralph Lauren, Chanel and Gucci all have stores in the P.C. Hooftstraat as does Tiffany’s for that perfect set of diamond earrings. Finish your outfit in style with a new pair of glasses from Dutch star optician Fred Stoeltie. The most recent addition to the P.C. Hooftstraat universe is, surprisingly, a bookshop, though that term doesn’t do Taschen’s newest Flagship Store much justice [For more on this new store see page 59]. Taschen stocks limited editions, some of them handsigned by their author. They have a wide selection of books on art, photography, architecture, lifestyle and fashion, naturally.

HEY ARTSY-FART! The Spiegelkwartier was a pretty insignificant district before the Rijksmuseum (closed until 2013) opened there in 1885. Now it’s the epicentre of the art and antiques trade in Holland. It’s surely worth a visit if you want to purchase a nice 17th century painting or ancient ceramics from Egypt. Even the Rijksmuseum buys stuff here!

The real fun of the Spiegelkwartier is in the curiosities The real fun of the Spiegelkwartier is in the curiosities. Nelis Antiques looks a bit like a crazy professor’s

Amsterdam

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THE SPIEGELKWARTIER JASKI NELIS ANTIQUES

THE NINE STREETS

KALVERSTRAAT

SPIEGELKWARTIER

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT

laboratory. It offers stuffed animals, old medical instruments and tin toys from the 1900s -the kind of paraphernalia that is both cool and scary at the same time. Modern art can be found at several galleries, including Jaski Art, which exhibits and sells work by leading (Dutch) artists like Corneille and Karel Appel. If you’re interested in Delftware, go for the real deal and shop at Aronson Antiquairs. Their merchandise dates back to the 17th century and is a tad more impressive than the 2011 copies you’ll find in most souvenir shops.

HEY HIPSTER! De Negen Straatjes (Nine Streets) is the exact opposite of the P.C. Hooftstraat. There are no high-end chain stores here, but cute shops in the most local of surroundings: the Amsterdam canals. Crafts and trade are as important here as they were four centuries ago.

Cute shops in the most local of surroundings Nowhere in the city will you find more diverse products per square metre. Looking for handmade Spanish pottery? Go to Terra. Secondhand vintage clothing from the 1960s? Go to Zipper. Funny or beautifully designed kitchen gadgets? Go to What’s Cooking. The list goes on and on. Authenticity is the keyword, which is why Flamework feels right at home in De Negen Straatjes. It sells glass jewellery, homemade in accordance with ancient traditions from Italy. Each piece is truly unique. There are also lots of culinary treats to be found in this district. If you want to bring home some exquisite cheese, you should visit De Kaaskamer, which holds up to 400 different cheeses from all over Europe. Or ruin your diet even further and indulge in the alluring chocolate treats of Pompadour, guaranteed to send your brain’s pleasure centre into hyper-drive.

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THE NINE STREETS POMADOUR TERRA WHAT’S COOKING

PIMP MY BIKE

Some people are riding around on a monster of a vehicle. Amsterdam Magazine is here to help them out! BY: arun sood photography: sarah moore

ina Antman has been meaning to paint her old bakfiets for months. But as a busy working mother, it’s not always easy to find a spare moment in the day. ‘Being a mother is the greatest job in the world, but believe me, it can certainly be stressful,’ says Tina, while frantically packing away a box of toys. ‘You learn to love it, but you also learn to swear a lot!’ Since Tina usually has her hands full with two-year-old son Noah, Amsterdam Magazine decided to help her out this month with a pimpin’ makeover. MAGICAL MACHINE Originally from Sweden, Tina moved to Amsterdam shortly after the birth of her son, and believes the city is a great place to bring up children. ‘I think Amsterdam is a friendly place for kids,’ says Tina. ‘There’s a lot for them to do and they are more included here than in other societies. Even the fact that you can take them to restaurants or bars and let them run around is great.’ Like most parents in the city centre, Tina decided to invest in a bakfiets (the wheel barrow-esque bicycles designed to cart children around) in order to make life a little easier. ‘It’s a magical machine,’ beams Tina. ‘My dog, baby boy and shopping all fit in there. And Noah usually takes all his toys with him so he’s happy to be whisked around in it.’

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TINA ANTMAN

FLOWING THERAPY One of the reasons Tina is so busy is that she also runs a business called Flowing Energy, a company that specialises in massage therapy and various styles of acupuncture. Originally trained as an acupuncturist, Tina has now turned her attention to Japanese ‘face lift’ massage techniques that revitalise the body and mind. ‘As an acupuncturist, I was always treating people in a later stage of some form of illness,’ says Tina. ‘Now I want to stop people getting ill in the first place

‘I LIKE PURPLES, GREENS, GOBLINS AND DRAGONS!’

Bustart

art-of-bust.com

PIMP MY BIKE

‘WELL, MY SON SEEMS HAPPY’

and encourage a healthy way of life, before toxins enter the body.’ When asked how she would like her bike to be painted, Tina decides to mix business with pleasure. ‘I like purples, greens, goblins and dragons,’ says Tina, ‘and it would be nice to incorporate the symbol of a spiraling hand as that’s what my business logo looks like. But something fun would be nice, too. It’s my son’s play area so he has to like it.’ BUST OUT SOME BUSTART This month’s artist, known by his graffiti name ‘Bustart’, is originally from Switzerland and moved to Amsterdam last year to further his career as a street artist. He worked to save enough money before moving, so now he can devote all of his time to street art, although he recently began producing his own T-shirt range. His latest project, which he calls ‘The Birdhouse Project’, involves crafting birdhouses out of used spray cans and placing them around the city. Eventually, he hopes to design a ‘Birdhouse’ map for tourists to see different parts of the city and his art at the same time.

Bustart chose Amsterdam as he believes the city is more welcoming for street artists and there are always new projects to work on. ‘There are a lot more opportunities to paint in Amsterdam than in Switzerland,’ he says. ‘There are so many legal and semi-legal walls available, and I think the art form is more respected here, too.’ Having been a graffiti artist in Switzerland for years, Bustart encountered his fair share of problems while trying to promote his art form, including getting arrested. ‘The whole thing was strange and unjust to me,’ says Bustart. ‘I don’t believe in destroying public property or defacing historical buildings at all. I always choose where to paint very carefully. But there are some graffiti artists who don’t care, which reflects badly on people like me. So in a way, one side of the culture destroys the other.’ HAPPY NOAH While Bustart has experimented with a variety of different styles over the span of his career, he admits Tina’s suggestions are surprising to him. ‘I have a lot of things in my

repertoire, but goblins and dragons aren’t one of them!’ he laughs. ‘But I’m sure I can do something with those ideas and colours. I think the hand symbol is a cool idea too.’ Bustart begins by spraying the whole bakfiets bright purple. After the initial coat dries he adds some of his trademark stencil designs and complements them with a bright green trim to the frame. As an added finishing touch, he paints Tina’s hand symbol on the side of the bike. After hours of intense painting, the old bakfiets is finally transformed into a mean purple machine. Upon seeing her bakfiets for the first time, Tina looks surprised and begins to smile. ‘It looks great. It’s definitely an improvement on the chipped old thing that I had before.’ Her son Noah then climbs inside and sits down comfortably. ‘Well, he seems happy and at home, and that’s the main thing.’ Would you like to have your bike pimped completely? Email us at info@amsterdam-magazine.com and we’ll see what we can do!

LOSING OUR

RELIGION By: Mike Peek

ove Christmas, but not exactly a religious person? Join the club! Secularisation has forced a lot of Amsterdam churches to open their doors for purposes other than praising Jesus. We were a God-fearing nation once. A century ago 90 per cent of all Dutchies went to church. Nowadays less than a third of us head for the pews on Sunday morning. We lost our Christianity primarily thanks to the modernisation of society, which gave birth to a lot of new institutions. Labour movements, for example, preached values that were very different from those of the average priest. Sports clubs, meanwhile, gave people a sense of belonging outside the church. They didn’t need faith to support their social life anymore. Increasing prosperity after the Second World War was the final blow. Higher levels of education meant more doubts about the existence of a supreme being, while the luxury of ever better-tasting food, nice clothes, television sets and cheap cars meant there was little left to pray for anyway. Every mortal had a choice now: go listen to that same old sermon about hell and damnation again or visit the seaside on a sunny spring day?

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CLOSED CHURCHES Luckily, churches are still a significant factor in Amsterdam’s streetscape. Even hardcore atheists have to admit it would be a sin to demolish those wonders of architecture and the feeling of being in a House of God adds to just about every experience. Sure, you can use a prefab building for your community centre, but why not adopt a church? That’s exactly what happened with the Oosterkerk. On the verge of collapse in the early 1960s, it was later renovated and trusted to the care of the Oosterkerk Foundation. Anyone can rent (part of) the church to exhibit their own art or organise a meeting. The foundation also regularly hosts freely accessible concerts by (multicultural) musicians and students of the Amsterdam conservatory. The Oosterkerk is not exactly a tourist magnet, but De Nieuwe Kerk should be on your must-see list. Located right of the Royal Palace on Dam Square, this church has long been a multifunctional venue. Graduation ceremonies, for example, were held in De Nieuwe Kerk centuries before the religious function was lost in 1979. Today, it’s one of the leading exhibition venues in the Netherlands, focusing on treasures from other countries, cultures and... religions.

FEATURED FEATURED

DE NIEUWE KERK

DE DUIF

OPERATING CHURCHES Lest we forget: there are still plenty of operating churches left in Amsterdam. But very few get by without picking up some side jobs. De Oude Kerk, the oldest remaining building in the city (dating back to 1306), is no stranger to outsiders. Centuries ago, fishermen used the vast space to fabricate or repair their nets and merchants gathered inside to close deals. The church even acquired the nickname ‘Living room of Amsterdam’. Nowadays it houses

It would be a sin to demolish those wonders of architecture exhibitions like World Press Photo and regularly offers movie screenings and (classical) concerts. From 21-26 December the ‘Winter Parade’ brings theater, dance and visual arts to De Oude Kerk. A visit is worthwhile even if there’s no event planned. De Oude Kerk may

not be the most lavishly decorated church in Amsterdam, but lives and breathes history through its gorgeous stone floor, wooden ceiling and ancient illustrations on the walls. De Duif at the Prinsengracht was a Catholic church until 1974 and is still home to a oecumenical community on Sunday mornings. During the week it’s mainly used for a wide variety of cultural happenings. Back in October De Duif hosted the Dutch MTV Awards, but the beautifully washed out decor is perhaps best suited for intimate concerts by singer-songwriters. I saw Swedish Anna Ternheim perform in De Duif a couple of years ago and let me tell you: there’s nothing like a blonde girl with a guitar, standing in front of an altar and singing about coming of age. The Westerkerk has a totally different vibe. With big windows, white plastering and grey-white decorations made out of sandstone, its interior

mission to use the vacant building at the Weteringschans and finally, after much public pressure, got the go-ahead in early 1968. Paradiso, monitored by a municipal foundation, opened its doors on March 30. It was the dawn of a new era. A COSMIC CENTRE OF RELAXATION Right from the start, Paradiso was more than just a concert hall. Flower power Godfathers Koos Zwart and Willem de Ridder envisioned a ‘cosmic centre of relaxation’, open to everyone with creative ambitions and the desire to break new ground. On legendary Provadya nights nothing seemed to be off limits. Dancers, magicians, acrobats, clowns and musicians performed in a sensory explosion of light shows, crazy colours, incense and marijuana. Years before coffeeshops popped up all around Amsterdam, Paradiso appointed its own in-house dealer to keep criminals at bay.

Paradiso embodies a shift in how we think about ourselves

DE OUDE KERK

is the very definition of understated elegance. Next to Sunday masses and wedding ceremonies, the Westerkerk also welcomes fashion shows, symposiums and dinner parties. Sitting down at the church cafeteria feels a bit weird since it’s actually inside the main hall. They do a mean apple pie though. The adjacent Wester Tower (accessible from April through October) offers splendid views of downtown Amsterdam. PARADISO: TEMPLE OF NEW CULTURE Let me confess something before we start here: the most famous of former churches in Amsterdam was never really a church in the strictest sense of the term. Pop temple Paradiso originally belonged to a progressive faith community called the ‘Vrije Gemeente’. Architect G.B. Salm designed them a building that doesn’t look like a classic Christian church (though it did hold an organ and had tainted windows), since the Vrije Gemeente believes wisdom can be found in all religions. They used it from 1880 to 1965 and then moved to a new, cheaper clubhouse at the outskirts of town. Flower power arrived in Amsterdam around the same time. The city rapidly became Europe’s hippie hotspot, and love-making, war-hating youngsters were looking for a place to meet. They asked the powers that be for per-

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Even without Twitter or Facebook, news about this hippie heaven smack down in the centre of a major metropolis quickly spread. A niche culture came of age and it drew like-minded people from all over the world to Amsterdam. The up-and-coming band Pink Floyd played Paradiso on May 23, 1968, less than two months after the curtain was raised. Those early days are legendary. Performers and audiences cuddled together in a whirl of psychedelic fun. Unfortunately, the fun didn’t last very long. Some not-so-mellow visitors saw Paradiso as the perfect place to start a fight and that problem escalated when hard drugs reached Amsterdam in the early 1970s. Heroin in particular turned many a hippie into mindless junkies, more concerned with their next fix than any message of peace, love and understanding. Paradiso’s reputation as a leading venue for new and experimental music dwindled even faster than it was gained just a few years earlier. LEGENDARY HALL, LEGENDARY CONCERTS The renaissance began in 1977. Huib Schreurs, freshly appointed as manager, saw the significance of punk and new wave music before anyone else did in the Netherlands. He brought bands like The Police to Amsterdam, providing Paradiso with its status as a major talent arena: many bands that went on to become international super acts played here on their way to stardom. U2 dropped by in 1981 and

FEATURED

PARADISO

Nirvana gave a legendary concert ten years later, just before Smells Like Teen Spirit proved a smash hit around the world.

Yeah, I was there when the Stones did Paradiso in ‘95. No biggie…

HIDDEN CHURCHES Between 1588 and 1795 our swell country was named the ‘Republic of the Seven United Netherlands’. Civilians didn’t have any religious freedom in those days: the government only allowed Protestantism. Naturally, devoted Catholics were not about to convert and practiced their faith in secret. The authorities came down hard on such rebellion at first, but later turned a blind eye and allowed dissidents to build a Catholic place of worship as long as it didn’t look like one. Some of those ‘hidden churches’ still exist today. The most famous example is ‘Ons’ lieve Heer op Solder’ at the Ouderzijdse Voorburgwal 40. Easily mistaken for just another canal house, the attic holds a fully equipped catholic church with room for 150 believers. It remained in function until 1888, long after the religious restrictions were lifted, and now houses a museum devoted to Amsterdam’s catholic history. The biggest hidden church in the Netherlands was Vrijburg, surrounded by civilian houses and inaccessible if you didn’t know where to look. Vrijburg served as a church from 1630 to 1957 before being vacated. It reopened as a debate centre and part-time television studio called ‘De Rode Hoed’ in 1989.

More recently Kings of Leon and Adele did gigs in Paradiso. They probably won’t return any time soon, because the main hall only holds 1500 visitors. Once an act really takes off, it often migrates to bigger venues like the Heineken Music Hall (5000 people) or even the Amsterdam ArenA (up to 50,000). That’s why many feel it’s a privilege to have seen famous artists in such an intimate setting. Not to mention that those concerts make for excellent bragging stories at a party: ‘Yeah, I was there when the Stones did Paradiso in 1995. No biggie…’ The Rolling Stones, of course, were one of the biggest bands in the world at the time. Mick Jagger and co. only came to Paradiso because they liked playing there. The building’s fantastic atmosphere and almost tangible history of great performances sometimes move major acts to revisit Paradiso later in their career. Tired of anonymous stadium concerts, they relish a hall where the audience is only a few feet away. After 43 years Paradiso is still more than just a concert hall. It’s a self-proclaimed ‘temple of new culture’, doubling as a nightclub and regularly hosting events like fashion shows or panel discussions on every topic imaginable. More than any other building in Amsterdam, Paradiso embodies a shift in how we think about ourselves: no longer creations of God, but creators of our own universe. Merry Christmas!

KNOCK KNOCK

KNOCK KNOCK THIS IS HOW AMSTERDAM LIVES

THE JORDAAN IS OFTEN CALLED THE HEART OF AMSTERDAM, BUT THERE ARE ONLY A FEW LONG TIME LOCALS LEFT. ELLEN KOK (74) IS ONE OF THEM. SHE SHOWS AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE AROUND HER HOUSE FULL OF COLOUR AND MULTIPLE COLLECTIONS. BY: MARIEKE VERHOEVEN | PHOTOGRAPHY: SARAH MOORE

rom her busy schedule and fit appearance you wouldn’t believe Ellen Kok is already in her seventies. The former dressmaker volunteers for various elderly centres in the neighbourhood, throws dinner parties at her house every two weeks and still loves to travel. ‘Travelling has become less though. I’ve been having troubles with my knee. But I like to stay active, that’s what keeps life fun.’ Ellen moved into the 18th century canal house on the Egelantiersgracht about 36 years ago. Before that, she lived at the Elandsgracht, just a few blocks away. ‘I’ve been living in the Jordaan for ages and wouldn’t trade it for the world. People sometimes complain about yuppies taking over the neighbourhood, but I don’t care, I still love it here.’

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‘I HAVE DUCKS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD’

KNOCK KNOCK

‘YES, VERY CONVENIENT IF YOU WANT ME DEAD SOON’ DUCK FOR COVER

OPEN DOOR POLICY

Ellen’s two-storey corner house resembles the nostalgic and slightly chaotic paintings of Anton Pieck (a Dutch painter from the early 20th century, ed.). There’s a cosy kitchen with dining room downstairs; a narrow staircase that leads to the upstairs living room, two bedrooms, work room and bathroom. Besides the warm colours and original features, one of the first things you notice is the abundance of, well, just about everything. ‘I just love to collect all sorts of things,’ Ellen laughs. ‘The problem is that when you start a collection, people keep bringing in more and more items.’ And before you know it, you own about 500 ducks, like Ellen does. ‘It started 25 years ago with this pink one in the back,’ she points. ‘And now I have ducks from all over the world, plus ducks with special features, like a teapot or a casserole.’ Ellen’s other collections include miniature statues of Santa Claus, opera masks (‘I love the opera, especially Maria Callas’) and salt and pepper sets.

meal.’ The selection criteria for invitation? Ellen puffs on her small cigar. ‘Well, some people are always invited, like my dear friend Sjaan (who at 85 is supposedly the oldest independent resident in the Jordaan). Others just need to hold a good conversation and have a love for food, that’s basically it.’ On a few occasions, the house is open for bigger crowds. On Queen’s Day (April 30) Ellen’s house is one big party place. And for Christmas, the whole family comes over to spend the night. ‘My daughter, son and two teenage granddaughters all sleep over, which is great. Naturally, I go all out for Christmas, with three Christmas trees and about 100 lights along the window pane.’

All that salt and pepper comes in handy when acting out her biggest passion: cooking. ‘My dinner parties are renowned around the neighbourhood. Every two weeks I invite a select group of people for some good food and nice wine. For five euro, guests are treated to a great

NEVER A DULL MOMENT When asked if she would ever leave the Jordaan, Ellen is very clear. ‘Never. Not too long ago, my daughter told me about this apartment in her building that was vacant. She thought it might be convenient. “Yes, very convenient if you want me dead soon”, I replied.’ Ellen says the house and all the activities around the neighbourhood are keeping her young. ‘This weekend, I’m cooking in the restaurant across the street. And there are a lot of holiday activities coming up in the centres that I volunteer at. Why would I want to be stuck in a boring flat somewhere, when I can still have a great life here?’

INVITE AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE OVER! Are you as proud of your Amsterdam dwelling as Ellen is? Then send a few snaps of your interior to info@amsterdam-magazine.com and perhaps we’ll be knock-knocking on your door soon!

MUSEUM CHECK

Tattoo Museum NEARLY HIDDEN BEHIND THE STAID GREY HOUSES THAT FRONT ARTIS ZOO IS A RIOT OF COLOUR, CULTURES, AND ABOVE ALL, TATTOO ART. IN A CITY FULL OF QUIRKY, PERSONAL COLLECTIONS THAT COVER EVERYTHING FROM DEFORMED

BABIES

EYEGLASSES,

THE

AMSTERDAM TATTOO MUSEUM MIGHT JUST BE THE MOST GLEEFULLY WEIRD OF THEM ALL.

By Allison Guy The Amsterdam Tattoo Museum is the brainchild of legendary tattooist Henk Schiffmacher, better known as the oversized personality Hanky Panky. Schiffmacher, who runs a parlour in De Pijp, has been collecting tattoo paraphernalia for over 30 years. Not restricted to the usual suspects of sailor tattoos or prison

Els and Marjan Netherlands

We really miss the titles, descriptions and explanations. There was no framework or chronology. You’re kind of fascinated, but without knowing any background about tattoos, you don’t know where to start. We like the atmosphere - it’s very shop-like. The whole building and idea behind the museum is great. It’s nice that a collection with international importance has been opened up to the public.

ink, his cosmopolitan tastes range across every culture and time period with a hankering for body modification. The result is the world’s largest tattoo museum, with the largest archive of tattoo-related books to match. THE VATICAN FOR TATTOOS Sometimes called ‘the mother of all art’, tattoos have been gracing human skin as far back as the Stone Age. The first floor of the museum displays these millenniaold traditions from Africa, the Americas, and Asia. Various cases house inked Peruvian mummies and the ouch-inducing casts of scarified bodies. The rest of the colourful space is decorated to look like parlours and shrines from a handful of Asian countries. An or-

Jeff Canada

I liked it, actually. It’s a lot of things from traditional to more contemporary. It’s all fresh, it’s all new; from here, the exhibit can just grow. It’s nice to go from prison tattoos to more Aboriginal ones. It’s a very thorough portrait of tattoos as art. There should be a better sign outside. Basically the animals in the jars, the pig and the dog, were my favourite part, but the scarification was also very impressive.

nate Indonesian longhouse is trimmed with a bouquet of headhunters’ skulls. One wall has an informative feature that offers a compare-and-contrast for the style and meaning of tribal ‘tats from around the world. Further on, dozens of gorgeous ukiyo-e prints complement the rainbow-hued photos of full-body Japanese tattoos. The second floor is devoted to the more Western, but equally exotic subcultures of circus sideshows and prison tattoos. There’s a display of hundreds of tattoo machines, as well as some transplanted local colour, like a full-scale recreation of the bar at the Bristol Tattoo Club. One puzzling corner holds gear and photos for mensur, the noble German sport of slashing your classmate’s face

Joy and Emily Netherlands

We came here for our final exam project. We need to learn about all things that concern tattoos. It’s very colourful. In the beginning we thought it was the wrong museum, with all the African art. It looks a bit unfinished. Maybe they need more information about the tattoos and a big sign outside. We think the price is a bit high, since we are just high school girls.

MUSEUM CHECK

to ribbons with a sword. Without any wall text, it’s hard to tell what mensur has in common with tattooing other than a high threshold for pain. PIGS AND NEEDLES Visitors will meet freaks and geeks galore, both human and animal. The weirdest aspects of the collection are the bits of tattooed skin, some on pickled pig hooves and leather, and some – gulp – on preserved human skin. For certain tattoo enthusiasts, ‘til death do us part’ has a

For certain tattoo enthusiasts, ‘til death do us part’ has a whole different meaning whole new meaning. The museum even solicits donations from anyone who’d prefer to meet St. Peter sans the inked babe on their biceps. Visitors familiar with the scene will get a kick out of seeing tattooed art and artifacts in person. Those who flinch at the idea of a shot, let alone a day/s-long marathon of electric-powered needles, will be intrigued but largely lost. During a recent visit, the museum had only bare-bones explanations for the works on display. Patrons who want more info with their saturated visuals should give the brand-new ‘Tatican’ several more weeks to add to their displays. Otherwise, the Amsterdam Tattoo Museum proves a fun, rowdy and gung-ho addition to this quiet corner of the city. Tattoo museum Plantage Middenlaan 62 amsterdamtattoomuseum.com

VALUE FOR MONEY: 3/5 ENTRANCE: €10 for adults, €5 for children under 12. Free for Stadspas holders and for patrons who cannot walk. €7.50 with the I amsterdam card. COMMENTS: A funhouse-style museum that covers everything from Indonesian tattoos to sideshow oddities, the Tattoo Museum is strangely light on explanation or context. The exhibits are bright and thoughtfully constructed, but until the museum puts up text, visitors will only have a vague idea of what they’re puzzling over. In the coming months, the museum plans to expand the information available about its collection. Highlights include a selection of Japanese ukiyo-e prints, various pickled and preserved animals and a replica of the Bristol Tattoo Club. There is a bookshop with a small but excellent selection of tattoo-

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related books, as well as various souvenirs. Visiting and resident tattooists can book an inking session via the museum’s website. ENGLISH FRIENDLY: Descriptions, where you can find them, are in English and Dutch. CHILD-FRIENDLY: While the shop has gifts for young children, the museum is better suited to older children who won’t mind some potentially creepy images. WHEELCHAIR-FRIENDLY: Everything is accessible by an elevator. MUSEUM HOURS: Open every day from 10AM-7PM. Closed on December 25 and January 1.

MADE IN HOLLAND

Feats per Minute BY: ALLISON GUY

For the true vinyl lovers among us, it’s always a good time to indulge in great music. Lucky then, that three Amsterdam-based designers have created Feats per Minute. A play on ‘beats per minute’ and the Dutch word for bike, fiets, this bicycle allows you to play vinyl records while you ride. The rear wheel incorporates a turntable, with an amplifying horn that juts over the back. The brainchild of Liat Azulay, Merel Slootheer and Pieter Frank de Jong, Feats per Minute is a ‘dream in progress’ at the moment. Beneath the prototype’s snappy exterior lies some spraypainted plumbing parts and a 30-year-old bike. It was a challenge to keep the bike as lowtech as possible, while dealing with problems like skipping needles and records that weren’t designed to be played vertically. Cyclists have to pedal with extreme care to play the record at the right speed. The creators are planning to commission new music and press their own vinyl to allow bikers to move at a faster pace. They envision a one-city one-Feats policy, with one of the spiffy black bikes cruising through every town, cranking out beats to keep the bike lane rocking and rolling. designdrift.nl

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THE 10 OLIEBOLLENKRAAM KINKERSTRAAT BILDERDIJKKADE

This sturdy, more modern-looking stand isn’t as gezellig as its competitors. Perhaps that’s due to its location. Plopped on a wind-swept bridge along Kinkerstraat, it’s a great place to stop if you’ve got a hankering for krentenbollen, a variety of oliebollen chock-full of currants (small, sweet raisins). According to one regular, Oliebollenkraam attracts a long queue of hungry locals every New Year’s Eve.

STUIJ SPECIALITEITEN AT THE INTERSECTION OF WIBAUTSTRAAT AND GEULSTRAAT

THE 10 BEST

OLIEBOLLEN KRAAMPJES What’s that sweet, greasy scent that ﬂoats through the streets of Amsterdam, tantalising all who come across it? What is responsible for this irresistible fragrance? Why, it’s the oliebollenkraampjes! Loved by many and loathed by any Dutchie on a diet, these pastry stands begin popping up every year in early November and stick around until at least New Year’s Day. While they often sell frosting-covered wafﬂes and other sweets, the real draw is oliebollen (literally ‘oil balls’). These deep-fried dumplings are an ubiquitous part of the holiday season here in the Netherlands. Here’s a round-up of a few of the best oliebollenkraampjes (oliebollen stands) in and around the city. Get ‘em while they’re hot! BY: Brandon Hartley

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As far as central Amsterdam goes, oliebollen can be as elusive as bike parking space outside of Centraal Station. Despite the immense popularity of these tasty treats, they’re few and far between ‘round these parts. Good luck finding an oliebollenkraampje anywhere near Dam Square. One exception: Frans Stuy, smack-dab in the middle of the Leidseplein. This oftphotographed, and often incredibly busy, stand is an oasis after a night of getting into the holiday spirit at the bars and clubs that line the square. Here you’ll find everything from chocolate-covered waffles to raisin-filled oliebollen (aka rozijnenbollen).

, BAKKERIJ T STOEPJE DAPPERMARKT

This local chain of bakeries has a pastry stand set up at this popular outdoor market in east Amsterdam. In addition to croissants and cupcakes, there’s plenty of oliebollen up for grabs. Along with the usual sugared variety, they also have ‘berlinerbollen’, which contain jam or custard frosting. Remember that story about JFK mangling a sentence in German during a speech in West Berlin back in the 1960s? He inadvertently announced to the crowd that he was one of these cream-filled pastries. ‘Ich bin ein Berliner’ indeed!

OUD HOLLANDS GEBAKKRAAM VAN BAERLESTRAAT

This one can be found on the Museumplein near the Concertgebouw. Throughout the holidays, the friendly ladies who work here will cater to tourists and families on their way to the Rijksmuseum, in addition to crowds at the symphony. Are you a fan of classical music? We triple-dog-dare you to sneak a bag of Oud Hollands’ appelbollen into the concert hall across the street.

THE 10 HOLLANDSE GEBAKKRAAM SMIT SLUISPLEIN

Getting down to this stall will take some effort, but it’s well worth it. Smit landed in the top rankings of AD News’ oliebollen taste test in 2010. Their treats leave little to be desired for those willing to make the journey.

P.A. STUY GEBAKKRAAM AT THE INTERSECTION OF MAASSTRAAT AND GEDLSTRAAT

Located across from Amrosa Coffee, this one had the best oliebollen we tasted during our tour of Amsterdam’s stands. Not too greasy and not too heavy, Stuy’s ‘baby cakes’ are the pastry-equivalent of waking up on Christmas morning to discover that Santa has left you a crate full of diamond-encrusted PlayStation 3s. In addition to the downright heavenly oliebollen, Stuy also offers some pretty dang fantastic stoofpeerbollen (oliebollen with pieces of pear).

FRANS STUY

HOLLANDSE GEBAKKRAAM

LEIDSEPLEIN

CORNELIS TROOSTPLEIN

This small, easy-to-miss stand isn’t as fl ashy as many of the city’s other oliebollenkraampjes. Here, you won’t find any huge signs or pastoral murals of windmills and moustached bakers. Hollandse is all about no-frills oliebollen, served-up hot for 80 cents a pop. They also offer waffles and appelbollen.

DE OLIEBOLLENHUT HAARLEM IKEA

Easily the most photogenic of all the oliebollenkraampjes on this list, De Oliebollenhut resembles a snow-covered cabin, complete with a chimney on the roof. This year, it will be located at the Haarlem IKEA until January 31, no doubt a perfect spot to rake in hungry Amsterdammers scrambling for holiday candles and other decor. If you find yourself out there fighting the crowds, give the hut’s bananenbollen (oliebollen with banana bits, if you couldn’t guess) a shot. Learn more about this stand online at deoliebollenhut.nl.

DE OLIEBOWLER VARIOUS LOCATIONS

OK, we saved the weirdest one for last. We encountered this mysterious, roaming baker making his way past the Melkweg one evening. Much like an ice cream truck, we could hear the Oliebowler before we actually caught sight of his brown bowler hat (get it?) and the modified, steampunk-style bakfiets he rides. ‘OLIEBOLLEN, WARME EN VERSE’, he cried. His vehicle uses a custom-made, pedalpowered contraption that helps keep his wares warm and fresh. After selling a few oliebollen and letting the small crowd standing out front know that he’d be rolling through the streets of Amsterdam throughout the holiday season, he removed his hat, took a small bow and disappeared again into the night, kinda like a pastry-wielding Batman. A quick head’s up: this last one may, actually, be a feverdream brought on by gobbling too many oliebollen. BUUUUUUUURP!

AMSTERDAM EATS

amserdam eats

Rosa & Rita In pursuit of culinary delights beyond bitterballen and frites, our expat foodie visits Rosa & Rita: East Amsterdam’s best kept secret. BY: HUNGRY IN HOLLAND

s I approached the Oostenburgereiland (Eastern Islands) and saw a parking lot dotted with derelict buildings and bleak high-rises, I began to question whether I had made a wrong turn. But peeking into the large warehouse at the end of the lot, a lively and warm interior assured me that I had come to the right place. STEAK OR PIZZA? There’s no beating around the bush when it comes to Rosa & Rita. Not quite French, not quite Italian, their cuisine is simply steak and pizza. The menu gets straight to the point, first showcasing their cuts of steak and then, on to their pizzas. While other starters and desserts are on offer, one glance at the tables around me proves that the signature dishes are what people come here for. Just for variety’s sake, I began my night with Polpo, a refreshing starter of squid drizzled in olive oil, lemon, and parsley. A perfect light starter for seafood lovers.

Final Score Cuisine: European

8.8

Neighbourhood: East Atmosphere: Casual Price pp: €15 to €25

Next came the marvellous mascarpone pizza. There are no flashy tricks, just good, simple ingredients: creamy mascarpone melting over a fresh tomato base with a handmade crust to finish it off. The rich, creamy cheese complemented the warm buttery crust, which was neither too crunchy nor too soft. Though closer to a child-size portion, it still turned out to be one of the best pizzas I’ve tasted in the city. The French-inspired béarnaise entrecôte lived up to the pizza in terms of quality and taste. It was tender, flavourful and served with a large portion of creamy sauce to smother the steak. DAME BLANCHE Upon finishing my steak, I spotted a man eating a giant bowl of whipped cream from across the room and pointed at it in awe, asking my server if this was a good choice. She nodded and within what felt like seconds, my own bowl of Dame Blanche was put before me in all its creamy richness. Who can complain about whipped cream accompanied by a carafe of melted hot chocolate to drizzle over it? It was

Open: Tues-Sun from 5pm, Mon closed Public transport: Tram 10, 26 Credit cards accepted: Yes Wheelchair access: Yes

by no means a sophisticated offering, but definitely satisfied my sweet tooth and penchant for over-indulgent desserts.

No flashy tricks, just good, simple ingredients From the service to dessert, I really had no complaints on this particular evening. While the atmosphere is by no means intimate, the brightly lit, uncluttered room is actually a refreshing change from Amsterdam’s ubiquitous cramped establishments. The waiting staff was efficient and helpful, and with dishes ranging from €8 to €12, prices are more than reasonable. If you want fun, casual dining with a little sophisticated touch, head East and you’ll be sure to find what you’re looking for.

What others said: Iens.nl: ‘Simple concept and good food.’ -NiekEten

Oostenburgereiland Conradstraat 47 +31 (0)6 11122373 rosaenrita.nl

NYC SKYLINE - EAST RIVER DRIVE, COUPLE RUNNING TOWARDS THE CAMERA WITH THE NEW YORK SKYLINE AS THEIR BACKDROP

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EXPO

THE GLAMOUR YEARS An Exhibition by Norman Parkinson (1913-1990)

PARKINSON SET HIS MODELS AGAINST UNUSUAL BACKDROPS AND SHOT THEM IN NATURAL LIGHT, PIONEERING ‘ACTION REALISM’, A PHOTOGRAPHIC STYLE THAT PERSISTS TODAY. THE EXPO PRESENTS RARE VINTAGE SILVER PRINTS FROM THE 1930S, 40S AND 50S AS WELL AS SOME WORLD-FAMOUS IMAGES OF AUDREY HEPBURN, AVA GARDENER AND JERRY HALL. 26 NOVEMBER 2011 UNTIL 21 JANUARY 2012

GALLERY VASSIE Langestraat 47 +31 (0)685 724 797 galleryvassie.com By appointment only

PARKINSON BROUGHT HIS MODEL OUT OF THE STUFFY, RIGID STUDIO ENVIRONMENT AND INTO A MORE DYNAMIC OUTDOOR SETTING.

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EXPO

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A DV E RT O R IA L

Taste the Dutch Roots WHY GET YOUR INGREDIENTS FROM FAR IF YOU CAN CATCH THEM WALKING AROUND RIGHT IN YOUR BACKYARD. THAT’S THE PHILOSOPHY AT ROOTS. THEY WORK EXCLUSIVELY WITH DUTCH PRODUCTS OF WHICH THERE IS PLENTY TO BE PROUD OF IN THIS EXTRAORDINARY WATERRICH COUNTRY. BY DAVE CLARK

Just outside of Amsterdam is Aetsveld, a beautifully rich area with lots of game. Roots is in good contact with the hunters who take care of the area and run the area in a responsible way. THE HUNTER Resident hunter Cor has an insurance office in Weesp, but takes us on a hunt before work in the morning. We find mostly hare and duck on the terrain; Chef Danny is mostly interested in the duck.

SPONGY The fields of grass are spongy and we have to cross a series of hurdles including fallen trees and ditches, but the nature here is breathtaking. When you think of the Netherlands you think of lakes, rivers, grasslands and ducks of course. This wild and stubborn animal, which flaps around in abundance here, is great for consumption and because of its fatty chest is easy to prepare.

“It’s delicious” CLEANING Cleaning the duck remains the most taxing job; plucking and separating all the parts, but practice makes it perfect. We roast the duck on the carcass until it’s pink. Its legs are used to make rillettes, which is slowly cooked in goose fat so it becomes buttery soft.

Roots specialties: Tenderloin € 23.50 Spareribs € 17.50 Burger € 15.50

Hare € 17.50 Mussels from Zeeland € 18

2 Flavours of wild duck from Aestveld pink roasted duck breast and drumstick rille complemented by green lentils. served alongsIde yellow and red beets with robust blueberry gravy €19.50.

Stadhouderskade 123 open daily www.rootsamsterdam.nl + 31 20 6750707

MAGNIFIED

TASCHEN shop

N 1980 A WIRY 18-YEAR-OLD BENEDIKT TASCHEN BEGAN SELLING COMIC BOOKS FROM A TINY STOREFRONT IN COLOGNE,

GERMANY. NOW TASCHEN’S INFLUENCE IS WIDESPREAD. LAST MONTH THE GIANT BOOK PUBLISHER OPENED A SHOP IN OUR VERY OWN AMSTERDAM.

By Arun Sood

From geek to chic

With flagship stores in places like Berlin, Beverly Hills and Paris, Benedikt Taschen has literally gone from comic book geek to Hollywood elite, and shows no signs of slowing down. In September he expanded his empire once again by opening a new shop on Amsterdam’s exclusive P.C. Hooftstraat. Nestled in among the majority of the city’s designer boutiques and world-renowned museums, the store is perfectly located for art lovers and the design-minded. Taschen might be a successful high-end publisher, but a visit to the store demonstrates Benedikt Taschen’s original vision to make lesser-seen art available

to a wider audience. Titles that may have previously been considered controversial sit happily beside classical works, posing questions and drawing comparisons between traditional ‘high’ art and more contemporary books on erotica or fetishistic imagery.

Creative succes

Browsing through the illuminated bookshelves, you’re just as likely to pick up the complete works of Van Gogh as you are to scour through the pages of Dian Hanson’s The Big Butt Book. It’s this sense of unpredictability and playfulness that make Taschen books so unique and entertaining. In a world where innovation and creativity is often curtailed by corporate demands, Taschen books remain inventive while also being commercially successful. Of course, it helps that the titles are beautifully packaged and have that knack for making any coffee table look that much more sophisticated. Unsurprisingly, the shop’s decor matches the lavishly designed books on offer. Split over two floors, the upper tier showcases

Taschen’s best-selling and new titles while the basement section functions as a gallery space for limited edition photographs and rarities. All the furniture in the shop was created by French designer Philippe Starck, and basks in the natural light provided by a huge window at the back of the shop. It all makes for an elegant, yet cosy ambience, and feels like the private library of an art scholar with a penchant for stylish erotica. Despite being a relatively small shop, it’s easy to while away a whole afternoon flicking through the variety of beautifully crafted books in such a serene setting. Just be prepared for a surprise or two along the way.

Taschen PC Hooftstraat 44 +31 0(20) 6627820 taschen.com

DUTCH A-Z North’. One hundred kilometers of canals (or grachten in Dutch) divide the city into smaller islands, connected by beautiful historic bridges. The most famous canals are the Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. A canal tour is a great way to view the city from a different angle. The canals were created centuries ago and were often used for transporting goods.

Every issue Amsterdam Magazine covers the whole alphabet to help you understand what the Dutch are all about.

* 11 Cities Tour Although the Dutch love to complain about cold winters, they forget all about their grudges once the canals and lakes are frozen over. Let the ice-skating begin! [see Ice skating for more info] When the ice is thick enough (15cm), the largest speed ice-skating competition can take place. The ‘11 Cities Tour’ (Elfstedentocht) is a rare event because most winters are not cold enough. The last tours were in ‘85, ‘86 and ‘97. The tour is held in the Friesland province and the 200km course goes through 11 historic cities.

What’s Holland without cheese? Being the largest exporter, Holland offers many varieties of this yellow delicacy, such as Gouda, Edam, Maasdammer and Boerenkaas (farmer’s cheese). Make sure you take some of that gold back home!

12th century, Amsterdam became one of the most important ports in the world.

B Bicycles Some claim that there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands. In Amsterdam, you will often see cyclists weaving nonchalantly between pedestrians. Renting a bicycle in Amsterdam might be a great idea to explore the smaller streets, but be careful if you’re not used to riding one!

Bitterballen Quite similar to the Kroket [see Kroket for more info], these little snacks are often served on special events such as birthdays, sport events or during business meetings. Of course, a beer perfectly complements this hot snack. Make sure you dip it in mustard before eating!

Clogs Ask anyone; “What’s typical Dutch?” and they often say wooden shoes. These shoes, also known as clogs, are actually no longer worn by the Dutch, but are still a popular souvenir. Originally, the wooden shoes were worn because of their protective features and were actually quite warm to wear since they were lined with hay.

If you’re searching for a hot, steaming coffee don’t be fooled; coffeeshops in Holland offer their customers something totally different. These coffeeshops will sell you (small) amounts of grass and you can smoke a joint on the premises, but only if there’s no tobacco inside, since the smoking of tobacco inside public places is banned. A small fact: it is actually illegal to sell weed, but not punishable, making it quite easy to get your stash.

D Delftware A Amsterdam Amsterdam is the capital and the largest city in the Netherlands. The city has a population of 1.4 million - quite impressive considering it began as a fishing village. In the late

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Boerenkool [see Stamppot for more info]

C Canals Amsterdam is sometimes referred as ‘Venice of the

Drop Black candy, it doesn’t sound nor look attractive, but the Dutch love it! Also known as liquorice in English, Dutch drop comes in hundreds of flavours and shapes. Most varieties will taste sweet, but some can be quite salty, so beware, it’s an acquired taste.

Dutch Treat

Coffeeshops

3 kisses In most cultures it’s common to greet a friend with a kiss (or two). The Dutch however, like to add one extra. These three kisses are actually air kisses; the lips should not touch the other person’s cheek. Oh, and to avoid akward situations: men don’t kiss eachother!

Cheese

done to prevent the country from flooding? Well the Dutch are very skilled at water management [see Water Management for more info] and dykes are one of those solutions. A dyke is a long wall or embankment which prevents water getting from one side to the other.

This is typical blue and white Dutch pottery that originated in the city of Delft. The original tinglazed pottery was made from the 16th to the 18th centuries.

Dykes A very large part of the Netherlands is actually below sea level, so what can be

Ah, the Dutch Treat; we all use it from time to time. Being known as penny-pinchers, the Dutch prefer to split the total bill at a restaurant and only pay their part. The Dutch Treat is also known as Going Dutch or the Dutch Date.

E Efteling Why go to Euro Disney when the magic is right here in Holland? The Efteling is Holland’s largest theme park, with fairytales around every corner. You can meet Little Red Riding Hood, trolls, elves and creatures you’ve never even seen before. There are also plenty of adrenaline rides, so it’s fun for the whole family. The Efteling is located in the south of Holland (Kaatsheuvel). Go to www. efteling.com for more info.

F FEBO Got a sudden craving for a crispy kroket or frikandel? [see Kroket or Frikandel for more info] Find a FEBO outlet and make sure you’ve got some coins on you. The FEBO is a fast food chain of automatiek restaurants, where you can buy your snacks from a wallmounted vending machine.

Frikandel This typical Dutch snack is shaped like a large sausage, but it’s rather different to the average sausage. It’s made from minced meat, deep-fried and

often eaten in a bun (broodje frikandel) or at least with a mixture of sauces. A frikandel speciaal is quite a popular variant; chopped onions together with mayonnaise and ketchup (or curry sauce) is placed in a frikandel that’s been cut open. A frikandel can be bought in a snack bar (fast food restaurant) such as a FEBO [see FEBO for more info] and is a typical party snack.

boterham (toast) with hagelslag.

Haring (herring)

G G (the pronunciation) Notable in the Dutch language, is the pronunciation of the letter ‘g’. Non-natives often struggle with this strange gurgling sound. In the northern and western parts of Holland, the letter ‘g’ is pronounced louder, a so-called ‘hard g’. In the other parts a ‘soft g’ is more common.

Gay marriage The Netherlands legalised gay marriage back in 2001, making it a popular destination for gay couples due to the tolerant attitude. Every first weekend in August, the popular Amsterdam Gay Pride event is held, attracting hundreds of thousands of gay and straight visitors. The most interesting part of this event is the canal parade, where a variety of themed boats sail along the canals.

Gezellig The Dutch word gezellig cannot be translated in any other language and is used in various ways. It means something like cosy, friendly or nice, but can also refer to time spent with loved ones or being very sociable. Things that can be gezellig are; hanging out with friends, a bruin café, drinking coffee with the neighbour or even a nicely decorated room in the house.

Going Dutch [see Dutch Treat for more info]

H Hagelslag Cloggies eat a lot of bread. They eat it at breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. Hagelslag is a typical Dutch chocolate topping that is sprinkled on toast (preferably white) with a thick layer of butter. Children in particular are quite fond of

This typical Dutch scenario is often quite repellent to outsiders: a raw shiny silver fish, covered with chopped onions, is held by its tail and is dangled over to the open mouth. With head tilted back, the fish is eaten (again, raw) and often a second one will follow. Yes, the Dutch love fresh haring every once in a while. A haring in a white bun is also quite popular. If you’re brave enough to try, go out an find some Hollandse Nieuwe catch between May and July; this is the best type of herring.

Heineken If you’ve never heard of Heineken, you must have been living under a rock. This brand of beer is world famous and originated the Netherlands. In Amsterdam you can visit the Heineken Experience to get to know everything you could possibly want to know about this golden liquid.

HEMA This Dutch department store with favourable prices has become quite hip in recent years. With more than 400 stores in the Netherlands, HEMA (Hollandse Eenheidsprijzen Maatschappij Amsterdam / Dutch Standard Prices Company Amsterdam) offers everything from homeware to clothing, office supplies to delicious sausages (rookworst) [see Unox for more info about rookworst].

Hyves Ever tried to find a Dutch friend on Facebook? This can

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DUTCH A-Z be quite hard, because most of the Dutch are already quite busy maintaining their social networks on Hyves.nl. You might want to sign up there if you want to stalk that Dutch chick or dude.

I Ice skating Ice skating is a popular winter activity in Holland. Though the Dutch love to complain about cold weather, once the ice is strong enough, they will get their skates out and take to the ice. In larger cities, small skating rinks will be created to offer a safer alternative to natural ice. These small rinks are often quite gezellig [see Gezellig for more info] and you can enjoy a hot cocoa and other delicacies at the rink side. Speed skating is also a very popular sport in Holland [see 11 Cities Tour for more info].

[see Kibbeling for more info]. The

word ‘lekkerbek’ can also imply a person who really appreciates food.

M Mayonnaise This emulsion of oil, vinegar, lemon juice and egg yolk is often served as a dipping sauce for fries or chips.

N Nachtwacht (Night Watch)

The most famous Dutch painting, by Rembrandt van Rijn in 1642 [see Rembrandt for more info] is actually called The Company of Frans Banning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburch. The picture is a group portrait of a division of the civic guard and is renowned for its size (363 x 437cm). You can see the Nachtwacht in Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum.

J Jonkie This Dutch gin (also referred to as Jenever) is a strong (35%+) liquor made in Holland and Belgium. There are two types of Jenever; old (oude) and young (jonge). The difference is not in age, but in the distilling techniques.

K Kaaskop Kaaskop is a (not so nice) nickname for a Dutch person. It literally means ‘Cheesehead’.

Kibbeling Cloggies are fond of fish and often treat themselves to a little fish snack. Kibbeling consists of deep fried chunks of cod topped with spices. These nuggets are served with specific sauces and taste quite similar to a lekkerbek [see Lekkerbek for more info].

Kroket The Dutch may not be famous for their haute cuisine, but they sure know how to snack! When you’re near a snack bar or a FEBO, go grab yourself a kroket; a crispy, sausage-shaped meat roll filled with (hot!) minced meat. The taste is quite similar to bitterballen [see Bitterballen for more info] and should be served with mustard and, if preferred, in a white bun.

L Lekkerbek Lekkerbek is deep fried cod and literally means ‘tasty beak’. The taste is quite similar to kibbeling

When visiting Holland during the European Cup and World Cup football, or on Queen’s Day [see Queen’s Day for more info], the streets and people will be wearing their national colour with pride.

P Pannekoeken (Pancakes)

These Dutch pancakes are slightly different then the American ones; they’re thinner and larger in size. Also various ingredients may be added to create surprising flavours. You can eat a basic pancake with ‘stroop’ (sugar beet syrup) or powdered sugar or go for the traditional ‘spek’ (bacon) pannekoek.

Poffertjes These mini pancakes are a traditional treat and taste quite similar to pancakes, but have a firmer and spongier texture. Typically, poffertjes are served with powdered sugar and butter, but other toppings are also available.

Prostitution Nieuwjaarsduik (New Year’s Dive)

On January 1, thousands of people take a dip in the icy sea at Scheveningen, wearing nothing but a bathing suit, to celebrate the start of the new year. Afterwards, a hot pea soup provided by Unox [see Unox for more info] is truly a well deserved treat.

O Oliebollen

Known in English as the ‘Dutch doughnut’, Oliebollen are traditional Dutch treats that are especially popular around New Year. The deep-fried dough is often covered in powdered sugar and comes in different varieties. In the holiday season, oliebollen stands pop up around the country to satisfy the winter dessert cravings.

Orange Orange is the national colour of the Netherlands. The association originated from the name of the royal family ‘Oranje-Nassau’.

Holland is a very open-minded country and legal prostitution is not hard to find. Brothels and red light districts are often touristic sights. In these red light districts, women are displayed behind windows, where you can pick your favorite and negotiate the deal. Typically, red light (or purple light for darker ladies) is switched on to show the passerby that there is sex for sale. When in Amsterdam, ‘de wallen’ area is a must-see. [see Wallen for more info]

Q Queen’s day Queen’s Day celebrates the birthday of the Dutch queen and is held on 30 April (unless that’s a Sunday, in which case it’s celebrated the day before). It’s not actually the birthday of the current Queen Beatrix, but her mother, Queen Juliana, but the tradition remains. This day is known for its ‘free market’ (vrijmarkt), where everybody is allowed to sell things on the streets. The streets and the people are coloured orange [see Orange for more info]. It’s probably one of the most gezellige [see Gezellig for more info] times in Amsterdam.

R Red Light District

with ground meat, mixed with spices, which is stuffed into a casing. While it literally means ‘smoked sausage’, it’s not truly smoked. This sausage is a typical ingredient of stamppot [see Stamppot for more info] and is often bought from HEMA [see HEMA for more info] or the supermarket. Unox is also a popular brand of rookworst [see Unox for more info].

S Sinterklaas While Christmas is widely celebrated in the Netherlands, children generally look forward to Sinterklaas more. This yearly Dutch feast is celebrated on December 5 and holy man Sinterklaas (who has a lot of similarities to Santa Claus) is the central character. The holy man and his helpers the ‘Zwarte Pieten’ [see Zwarte Piet for more info] will sneak through the chimney and leave behind jute sacks filled with presents for wellbehaved children.

Stamppot When it’s getting chilly outside, the Dutch like to eat stamppot for dinner. Stamppot is a mixture of boiled potatoes and vegetables topped with gravy and served together with meat such as rookworst [see Rookworst for more info]. Popular stamppotten are Boerenkool (farmer’s cabbage), Andijvie (endive), Zuurkool (Dutch sauerkraut) and Hutspot (potatoes mixed with onion and carrot).

T Tulips If you come to the Netherlands in the spring, you can’t miss the tulip fields in the countryside. The Dutch love their flowers and the tulip is their most prized possession. Home to the world’s largest tulip garden, Keukenhof is a nice place to see the colours and varieties of tulips.

[see Wallen for more info]

Rookworst A typical Dutch sausage, made

U Unox This consumer product brand is presented as something typically Dutch. Their rookworst [see rookworst for more info] is often eaten during winter times and Unox is a prominent sponsor of the 11 cities tour [see 11 Cities Tour for more info] and the nieuwjaarsduik [see Nieuwjaarsduik for more info].

South Holland. The 19 historical working windmills are on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list and are among the most popular tourist destinations in the country.

Wooden Shoes [see Clogs for more info]

V VOC

(Dutch East India Company) The VOC (Vereenigde OostIndische Compagnie) was a chartered company established in 1602. It was the first multinational company and the first that handed out shares. For decades this monopolistic concern dominated the global spice trade, transporting spices using large ships (you can see a replica ship at the Scheepvaartmuseum in Amsterdam). The VOC representatives used violent methods to gain respect from the native population. In the first years of the 1800s the VOC slowly fell apart.

W Wallen De Wallen is the largest and most famous red light district in Amsterdam. It is a network of alleyways and canalside buildings where approximately 300 windows are used by prostitutes [see Prostitution for more info]. The prostitutes sit behind a window in a room with a red light. This is a major tourist attraction in Amsterdam and the area also includes a number of sex shops, peep shows, and a sex museum.

X xxx You might presume that the triple X sign represents the erotic scene in Amsterdam. Well it could. But when you ask a Dutch person what XXX means, they will probably say three kisses [see 3 Kisses for more info]. The XXX is quite similar to the American xoxo (hugs and kisses). These three letters are also to be found everywhere on the streets of Amsterdam, such as on amsterdammetjes (steel bollards). In that case the crosses are part of the city’s crest, and are actually Saint Andrew’s Crosses - not that sexy, but of historic value.

Y Yiddish Many words from the Amsterdam dialect originate from the Yiddish language. Examples are mazzel (lucky), mesjogge (crazy), nebbisj (unlucky person), achenebbisj (poor, messy) and koosjer (in order, all ok). Before WWII, Amsterdam was home to a large group of Jews whose mother tongue was Yiddish.

Z Zwarte Piet Water management Since large parts of the Netherlands are below sea level, the Dutch have become very inventive when it comes to keeping the water out. Their systems are utilised globally and range from dykes and dams to well-engineered automatic floodgates.

Windmill The Dutch are famous for their windmills and have a long tradition of using windmills for land draining, corn milling, saw milling, and more. There are currently 1200 windmills that still survive today. The largest collection of windmills are located at Kinderdijk in

(Black Pete)

Sinterklaas’s [see Sinterklaas for more info] companions are loved by children. The funny looking characters with colourful costumes and blackened faces are subject to much debate. Foreigners are often shocked by their appearance. While it is a very old tradition, the fact that their faces are covered in black make-up and they are Sinterklaas’s helpers is unacceptable to some.

INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW

E L EC T R O N UNORTH IC DUO GOLDFIS O D OX M A H TA LK A W ITH EM R I A ND A M RIAGE OF MUSIC BOU T A N CULT UR S T ER DA , SIGNIN E M G HOLL A N . ‘I DON’T K NOW ’S UBIQUITOUS D, B U T O W H AT IT DA N CE U RE SON A IS T E S HER R S T Y L E OF MUS A BOU T E .’ IC RE A LL Y BY: TIM H ILHORST

When Dom says ‘style’ he’s not using it in the generic sense of the word; Goldfish has a musical identity that is distinctively theirs. ‘It’s basically dance music, but with a very strong jazzy element,’ says Dom, before quickly adding, ‘We’re all actually jazz musicians first and foremost.’

PHOTO: ROSS HILLIER

‘Sometimes you want to have some sushi and sometimes you want your mum’s roast chicken and sometimes you want a hamburger; jazz is kind of like red wine or olives, it takes some getting used to, but it can add complexity to a host of different meals,’ Dom appetisingly explains. Goldfish, a name derived from Dominic’s allegedly poor short-term memory, are at the cutting edge of a crossover genre - something they themselves call ‘the reinvention of the DJ’.

The Cape might be known for its extensive flora and diverse marine fauna, but we’re talking about Africa’s fish of an entirely different breed. In among the tourists and expats in the second most populous city in South Africa, are Dominic Peters and David Poole, whose electronic waves have rippled all the way to our shores. MUSIC IDENTITY They started out with a gig in Holland in front of 150 people on a beach in Scheveningen and ended up at the Olympic Stadium performing for 8000. Goldfish has grown swiftly in popularity among students as well as industry tastemakers over ten sold-out shows. ‘I don’t know what it is about Holland, but our style of music really resonates here,’ says Dominic.

FISHIES INSTEAD OF GROUPIES ‘A lot of electronic music is very clinical, but we always try and bring in organic sounds,’ says Dom. By combining live instruments like the double bass, saxophone and keyboards with live vocals, samples and crowd recordings they bridge the gap between the DJ and the audience in their performances.

SOMEONE FROM PACHA WAS THERE ‘At ADE we sat on one of the panel discussions. The title of the panel was How to Become an Overnight Success . But it’s definitely not been an overnight success,’ says Dom. The musical duo, friends since they met while studying at the University of Cape Town, have been plugging away solidly for a good ten years – when they could drag themselves away from the surf. After playing in Cannes and heading to Ibiza four years ago, they succeeded in scoring a gig at a spring break bash and from there the proverbial ball started rolling. ‘We managed to get another gig to play for 20 minutes before Pete Tong at Café Mambo and it just so happened that someone from Pacha was there,’ says Dom. A residency at one of the most renowned clubs in the world followed, and as Dom explains with a hint of pride, ‘Last year we were doing the residency with Fedde Le Grand and this year we played every Thursday with Guetta.’ Some fishies on our side of the equator

Yet, no matter how popular the band is here and in South Africa, other areas of

worry about how the band, who has – selfadmittedly –been ‘fiercely independent’, will cope with the bidding from one of the biggest labels in the world. But the duo is confident that the fit is snug, ‘Ja, we’re really excited to be working with them. Record companies really do feel the pressure to push stuff that they know is going to be a sure thing. But it doesn’t have to be that way. You can still make good music and have substance, too.’

the world don’t seem to have caught on. ‘What’s kind of been the feeling is that we’ve been a really well-kept secret for a long time,’ Dom says of their growing popularity. But not for much longer, as they signed with music giant EMI during the Amsterdam Dance Event.

The pair is getting ready for some shows in South Africa for the summer (our winter) and will be playing in Dubai for New Years. After heading to Brazil, EMI will be releasing a compilation of remastered tracks entitled Just Goldfish.

Maybe it’s the historical ties or maybe it’s the tourism, but Amsterdam is swimming with fans of the African band, or fishies as they are referred to in more socially distinctive subcultures.

WET YOUR WHISTLE

Amsterdam Skylounge ‘Steer clear of any establishment with a great view.’ This parable is considered common knowledge among barflies. But does it apply to this snazzy watering hole near Centraal Station? By Brandon Hartley

msterdam Skylounge, located at the top of the soon-to-be rebranded Mint Hotel, is no exception (by the time you read this, the high-rise may have become the Amsterdam Doubletree by Hilton). Much like the Mint’s other European locations, which were also purchased by the infamous hotel chain earlier this year, the panorama is unsurpassed. It’s even better than the one you’ll find at the equally sleek Centrale Bibliotheek next door. The lounge’s floor-to-ceiling windows and two outdoor terraces give patrons a gorgeous, unobstructed view of central Amsterdam... provided the city’s typically gloomy skies behave themselves. Just be sure to check your bank account before you hop in the elevator in the lobby downstairs.

hanging around here on a Saturday night, working his mojo on an intergalactic princess. A pick-up line like, ‘you truly belong with us among the clouds’ would probably serve you well around here.

ELEGANCE DOESN’T COME CHEAP Up here, a glass of Remy Marin Louis XIII Cognac runs at 125 euros. If you can swing that, you probably won’t bat an eye at the lounge’s cocktails, which all start at 16 euros. This isn’t to say that the latter aren’t worth every penny. One truly inspired selection, ‘Stark & Dormy’, combines Gosling Black Seal rum, fresh sage, honey and lime juice, topped off with a hearty splash of Jamaican ginger beer. The even more decadent ‘Tellurium Champagne Cocktail’ mixes a glass of bubbly with Cariel vanilla vodka, fresh passionfruit and a drop of lime.

Amsterdam Skylounge fills a niche but it does so without much in the way of inspiration beyond its cocktail menu. It’s an establishment designed for corporate meetings, romantic evenings and one-night stands. It’s a slick oasis for the city’s movers and shakers. Without the view though, ultimately, it’s just another hotel bar and grill.

On a recent visit, the lounge was populated with the sort of people you might expect at a place like this. A corner table was filled with international businessmen in suits haggling over a deal. While couples gazed into each other’s eyes over their wine glasses and well-dressed singles surveyed the room, a group of fashion photographers loudly dished the dirt while lazing on one of the many couches that line the perimeter.

A group of fashion photographers loudly dished the dirt

The food menu, meanwhile, is rather sparse. A ‘Lounge Burger’ will set you back €17.50 but the ‘Skylounge Salad’ is worthy of its price-tag (€25.50). It comes with poached lobster, foie gras, roasted tomatoes, brioche croutons and a soft poached egg. The desserts, which are limited to a few paltry chocolates, fruit and cheese selections, could use some sprucing up. CHAMPAGNE SUPERNOVA IN THE SKY The interior and furnishing are appropriately spaceaged, but nothing you haven’t seen before. The lounge’s lengthy bar glistens like the Milky Way and the overall ambiance is worthy of the floating city in The Empire Strikes Back. It’s not hard to imagine Lando Calrissian

Amsterdam Skylounge 11th Floor, Mint Hotel Oosterdokskade 4 minthotel.com/skylounge

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UPCOMING

BY: NICOLA BOZZI

/UPCOMING DECEMBERGIGS TUESDAY 1

THE MILLIONAIRE FAIR This deluxe four-day event showcases the most expensive and exclusive sports cars, antique objects, latest fashion trends and evergreen design classics. Even if you’re not a millionaire, you might be curious about what a millionaire would buy. Among the jewellery and high-heeled hostesses, shop for your brand new suburban home in Marina Resort Uitdam - to which you can add a splash of colour with one of Frank Dammers’ paintings When: December 8–12 on sale. You’ll probably leave Where: RAI humming your own adaptation Admission: €35 (day ticket, Dec 9–11) of that ubiquitous refrain ‘I or €75 (Business Monday ticket, Dec 12) wanna be a millionaire, so miljonairfair.nl freaking bad…’

INXS, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) One of the most beloved rock bands of the 1980s, the group had to deal with the suicide of charismatic lead singer Michael Hutchence. Currently performing with their third post-Hutchence frontman, they are touring their latest album, Original Sin (2010), which reinterprets the band’s biggest hits. 7.30pm, €25 + membership.

FRIDAY 2

Das Racist, Sugar Factory Brooklyn-based, alternative hip hop trio that burst onto the scene with the hilarious and surreal single ‘Combination Pizza Hut and Taco Bell’. Two EPs later, the group has released a much-anticipated fulllength effort, Relax (2011). 8.30pm, €16 + membership.

Bang! Bang! Reloaded, Winston Kingdom Get the party started with DJs who have been making Amsterdam dance with indie soirees Gemengd Zwemmen and Kill All Hipsters. Now you have the best of both worlds in one glittery package on the first Friday of every month. 11pm, €6. Midnight Freaks Romanian night with DJ’s Rhadoo, Negru, Ferro, RAAF, Jaime Frias & Tommy Kornuijt, Japser Wolff & Maarten Mittendorf. Techhouse & Deep-house. 11 pm, € 16.

SATURDAY 3 Café Istanbul, Podium Mozaiek Enjoy a cosy Turkish dinner with a strong bottle of raki on the table before moving into the main hall for rock band Babayani, who have been inspired by the poems of Orhan Velhi, and finish off the evening dancing to a funky DJ set. 6.30pm, €12-€37.50.

SUNDAY 4 CSS, Bitterzoet Acronym for Cansei de Ser Sexy (Portuguese for ‘I got tired of being sexy’), this band’s name actually stands in serious contrast to their exuberant, punky brand of electro-rock sprinkled with reggae and afro beat. 8.30pm, €16.

MONDAY 5 Smith & Burrows, Paradiso (Grote Zaal) Celebrate the holidays early with this powerhouse duo of Tom Smith, lead singer of The Editors, and Andy Burrows, former member of Razorlight. The two avoid cheesy lyrical references to winter and instead focus on the feeling of togetherness that Christmas is all about.

WORLD CHRISTMAS CIRCUS The 27th edition of the World Christmas Circus is dedicated to the founder of this theatre, Oscar Carré, who passed away 100 years ago. Moving on to jollier factoids, the show will feature the winner of the Golden Clown award at this year’s Circus Festival in Monte Carlo. American Bello Nock, a seventh-generation circus man, has been perfecting his craft since the tender age of three. Nock is known for When: December 22 – January 8 accessorising his foot-tall red Where: Royal Theatre hairdo with a flashy tuxedo and Admission: €15–€59 with a saddle shoes. Don’t worry; he surcharge of €5 during the Christmas holidays. Children won’t scare the kids away with under 12 get a €4 discount. nightmarish make-up because carre.nl this clown performs au naturel.

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THURSDAY 8

Dance4Life, Heineken Music Hall An electronic celebration of life featuring Fedde le Grand, Sunnery James and Ryan Marciano, Don Diablo, The Partysquad and Handsome Poets, among others. All performers agreed to play for free, with the proceeds of this event going towards educating young people in matters of sex, HIV and AIDS. 8pm, €24.

Monday Match, Bimhuis Every first Monday of the month, unlikely mixes of dancers and musicians come together to improvise performances in front of a live audience, followed by a DJ set with hidden gems and cool grooves. 8.30pm, free.

TUESDAY 6 Concerto and Paradiso Present… Paradiso (Grote Zaal) A famous record store and a legendary music venue join hands to present some of indie’s newest and brightest talent. Headlining is Canadian outfit Austra, praised for their dark synth soundscapes. Also on the bill are Mister Heavenly, Automatic Sam, Stepkids and The Bent Moustache. 7.30pm, €12.50 + membership.

FRIDAY 9 Atomic, Bimhuis This five-piece band has been a solid fixture on the Swedish and Norwegian jazz scenes for the past ten years. Expect explosive acoustic music and rich melodies inspired by American innovators such as Charles Mingus and George Russell. 8.30pm, €18.

SATURDAY 10 The Pact, Winston Kingdom If hard rock is your cuppa tea, then you can’t go wrong with these local veterans, who mix original songs with recognisable covers. Support from Delta. 9pm, €8. Defected in the House Famous English label & concept with DJs Franky Rizardo, AFTC, El Mundo & Satori, warm and sexy house. 11 pm, € 16.

SUNDAY 11 The Horrors, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) British post punk outfit well known on the European festival circuit promotes its critically acclaimed third album, Skying (2011). Support from Celebral Ballzy. 7.30pm, €16 + membership. Game, Melkweg (The Max) For the record, this is actually Compton rapper The Game we’re talking about. He decided to drop the article and change up the beats for his star-studded fourth album, co-produced by Pharrell Williams and featuring the likes of Lil Wayne, Dr. Dre and Snoop Dogg. 10pm, €32.50 + membership.

MONDAY 12 Bimlab 5, Bimhuis (Café) An improv series curated by duos of different artists from the Union of Dutch Improvisers. For this month’s edition of funky jamming, viola player Ig Henneman and guitarist Maarten van der Grinten invite their favorite musicians. 9.30pm, €6.

TUESDAY 13 Karnatic Lab, De Badcuyp (Concert Zaal) Regular concert series devoted to elements taken from Karnatic music (aka classical music from south India), such as advanced

CRAZY ENDING SHOW Co-organised by rock’n’roll club Pacific Parc and Koeioneur, this four-day extravaganza beckons you to spend your holidays in a more unconventional way. To whet your appetite for the bizarre, one of the acts is Captain Frodo, a crazy Norwegian contortionist with a penchant for the iconic Björn Borg look. Watch him try to fit himself through the frame of a tennis racket and then move on to more graceful things as the lovely Wietske Vogels plays with When: December 22–25 the hula hoop and aerial rings. Where: Zuiveringshal, There will also be live music, Westergasfabriek including tropical rock act Pacifix €24.50 for each night to warm up those of you who crazyendingshow.nl have become cycling popsicles.

THE VOICE OF HOLLAND IN CONCERT The Voice format, created by Dutch producer John de Mol, has swiftly taken over the world, with franchises in more than 30 countries. What sets this show apart from your run-of-the-mill talent competition is that judges initially sit with their backs to the performers auditioning and swivel their chairs only if the voice impresses them. Last year’s winner was Ben Saunders, a London-born tattoo artist and martial arts fighter. Check out the last 12 standing in the competition in a show When: December 28–29 that promises to feature spectacular Where: Heineken Music Hall effects and the usual contestant clips. Admission: €38.50 Just don’t forget that it’s all about the heineken-music-hall.nl voice.

UPCOMING

development of rhythm, microtonality and use of ornamentation. This month’s performance has a Brazilian twist and features multi-talented percussionist Celio Vasconcellos. 8.30pm, free.

WEDNESDAY 14 Jur Naessens Music Prize Final, Bimhuis Three innovative musicians under 37 compete for the big prize: Merlijn Twaalfhoven, known for his multi-sensory performances, Bruno Xavier da Silva, who mixes improvisation, tap dance and turntablism, and Jacob Lekkerkerker, major church organist with a knack for experimentation. 7.30pm, €16.

TANGOMAGIA For a few passion-packed days, Amsterdam becomes the capital of Argentine Tango, with famous performers flying in from all over the world, including tango headquarters Buenos Aires. Don’t miss out on watching superstar couples such as Dmitry Vasin and Taya Finenkova, finalists of the European Tango Championship 2011. If you’re not satisfied with just watching these masters of seduction strut their stuff, then join several workshops and experience the magic for yourself as taught by Sebastian Arce and When: December 26–30 Mariana Montes, two of the Where: various locations most renowned teachers and Admission: various prices show choreographers on the tangomagia.com contemporary tango scene.

THURSDAY 15 La Pegatina, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) This seven-man band from Barcelona blends rumba, punk and ska and has made a lasting impression on the Dutch crowds with their explosive show at the 2010 Lowlands festival. Support from The Bazzookas. 7.30pm, €15 + membership. Thursday Tunes Jam, CC Muziek Café This pretty much does what it says on the tin, with some pop, rock and blues jammin’. 8pm, free.

FRIDAY 16 Baraná feat. Ceylan Ertem, Bimhuis Turkish-Dutch band Baraná are masters of blending Turkish music with global genres, while hip singer Ceylan Ertem challenges the band in creating unique pop music that breaks the sickly sweet mould of Turkish radio hits. 8.30pm, €18. Desolat, Trouw The club invites artists from cutting-edge German label Desolat to take over the former printing press with their Tanzmusik. 11pm, €13–€15.

SATURDAY 17 DAAR + Dakota, Winston Kingdom An indie pop double bill with local acts DAAR, a band inspired by Pearl Jam, Pavement and The National. And Dakota, a girl group drawing influences from Kings of Leon, Jeff Buckley and Radiohead. 9pm, €5.

SUNDAY 18 Greek Music Night, CC Muziek Café You can’t break plates at this cozy De Pijp live music outpost, but you can sure make Zorba jealous with your epic dancing skills. Opa! 8pm, €3.

GROTE PRIJS FINAL Paradiso and Melkweg dedicate a whole day and night to the largest music competition in the Netherlands. Catch some soulful tunes in your lunch break from six finalists ready to charm the audience in the Singer/Songwriter category (12:45pm, Paradiso). Come back in the evening for some tight rhymes courtesy of the hip hop finalists (8pm, Paradiso). If you’re more the head-banging type, it’s time to move across the Leidseplein, where rock bands battle it out for the Rock/Alternative title (8pm, Melkweg). Dance the night When: November 19, 8.30pm away as finalists mix for the Where: Grand Café 1e Klas, Amsterdam Centraal Station prospect of becoming Dutch (Platform 2B) electronica’s next big thing in Admission: €15 the Dance/Producers section rocketcinema.nl (12am, Melkweg).

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MONDAY 19 Hawthorne Heights/Red Jumpsuit Apparatus, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) If you’re still holding grudges against the cool kids from your high school days, then go mosh the angst away at this emo double bill. Support from Failsafe. 7.30pm, €15 + membership. Freddy Garcia’s Bebop Band, CC Muziek Café A tribute to the brilliant Ray Charles, who was once called ‘the only true genius in show business’ by Frank Sinatra. 8pm, €3.

THURSDAY 22 Closer – Joy Division Tribute from Peter Hook, Melkweg (Oude Zaal) After the loss of frontman Ian Curtis, post-

punk pioneers Joy Division quickly reformed into another legendary group, New Order. Peter Hook recently left New Order and formed band The Light, which will perform Joy Division’s 1979 debut, Closer, in its entirety. 9pm, €27.50 + membership.

FRIDAY 23 Supertoys, Club AIR This liberal electro houseparty brings colour in the nightlife. With great names like Tom Trago, Ted Langenbach, Egbert-Jan Weber and Johanna Maria. 11pm, € 14. Arctic Accents – Sounds of Finland, Bimhuis Judging by this double bill, Finland’s sound could be summed up in one word: cinematic. Guitarist Kalle Kalima of band K18 has been penning songs inspired by scenes from the work of Stanley Kubrick, while band Gourmet takes audiences on an eclectic cruise. 8.30pm, €16.

SUNDAY 25 Laziz: It’s a Christmas Extravagance!, Paradiso Dubbed after Egyptian slang for ‘good’, this party swaps Christmas trees for palm trees as Middle Eastern disco and North African grooves take over the venue. Throw in some water pipes in the smoking lounge and sensual belly dancers in the small room, and you have all the ingredients for a memorable bash. 11pm, €12.50.

MONDAY 26 Xmas Covers, CC Muziek Café Have a chilled out Boxing Day as Amsterdam’s talented crop of young singersongwriters croon your favorite holiday tunes. 8pm, €5.

WEDNESDAY 28 Gare du Nord, Melkweg (The Max) Music press fave, this Dutch-Belgian duo is known for its smooth and sultry vocal jazz. 8pm, €22.50 + membership.

THURSDAY 29 The Jazz Orchestra of the Concertgebouw & Stochelo Rosenberg, Bimhuis Created in the 1930s, gypsy jazz is the lively and exciting blend of jazz and eastern European folk music. The Orchestra joins world-class soloist Stochelo Rosenberg for some sparkling big band variations on this unique genre’s classic pieces. 8.30pm, €25. CookieClub Special The best thursday night in Amsterdam with special guest Jesse Rose. 11.30pm, free before midnight, student €6, non-student €9.

FRIDAY 30 Makali Sounds, CC Muziek Café This is your training day before the big party, so get into the New Year’s Eve groove with some afro-fusion beats. 8pm, €5.

SATURDAY 31 NYE Silver Disco, Sugar Factory Rumour has it that 2012 is our last year on Earth, so we might as well welcome it in with a bang. Electronation brings out the finest DJs to mix just about every disco genre out there. Dress code: glitter, glitter and some more glitter. 11pm-6am, €35.

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COLUMN

Framed!

BY THOMAS SCHLIJPER

21 NOVEMBER, NIEUWEZIJDSVOORBURGWAL, 16:56

Every day Thomas Schlijper takes a picture. Check out his blog at www. schlijper.nl and see what the beating heart of Amsterdam looks like. Here’s a sneak preview!

Fog occurs when moisture cools in the air. And if there’s hardly any wind or sun, it won’t disappear straight away. This might explain why Amsterdam has been covered in a dense fog for three days in a row. Visibility has been less than 50 metres. It’s a spooky, yet beautiful sight.

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