tREnd RepORt AUTUMN WINTER 17/18
COnTEnTS in advanced
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pRint and graphic Abstract Camo - 05
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Blocking it Out - 11 Propaganda Rebel - 17
mEnswEar Back to Bed - 25
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The New Vintage - 31 Comfort is the new Luxuxry - 37
viSuaL merchandiSE All I See is Signs - 45 Modern and Minimalistic - 51 Raw Earth - 57
bibLIOGraphY
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I . n .ADVanCE who are we? I.N.Advance are an agency of creatives based in Nottingham, who specialise in forecasting trends for the contemporary lifestyle. We explore the trends straight from the runway and propose social and cultural influences which may have impacted upon our predicted trends. This report presents the key trends we have defined for AW 17/18 within the following sectors; Print & Graphics, Menswear and Visual Merchandise. Each trend is explored creatively through the use of imagery and colour palettes, providing a visual aid for fashion buyers in a retail environment.
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print and graphics
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abstract camo
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print and graphics
casual textured head to toe This military inspired trend resurfaces for yet another season, with an updated and casual appearance. Introducing textured prints and head to toe co-ordinates, individuals are able to make the ultimate impact. A shift in tones, textures and the multi layering of prints is what differentiates this trend from previous seasons.
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Camouflage is a cyclical trend we see on the catwalk and high-street every A/W. Originally influenced by military culture, this trend has been through several regenerations before reaching its current focus for AW 17/18. The current re-appropriation of the print, takes a commercial direction - encouraging designers and consumers to be bold and take risks with their choices.
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Olive Branch
Defence Green
Muted Military 8
blocking it out
Fig 8 - Own Image
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print and graphics
bold youthful distinctive Evolving from the DIY patchwork ethic we all know and love, AW 17/18 sees the introduction of coloured patchwork blocking. From knitwear to outerwear to tailoring, visual contrast is central to this trend. Pattern and colour clashing, inject a youthful and playful nature to this upcoming trend. Neon and primary colour palettes are used to harshly contrast one another in several catwalks designs this season.
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The colour palettes seen on catwalks such as Topman and Christopher Shannon this season, are what set this trend apart from the rest. The use of vibrant highlighter tones is what provides a new and brighter appearance for patchwork. The contrast of colours and textures are what lie at the heart of this trend. Combining this with formal tailoring, reinforces the new approach of this trend which now moves away from the vintage association of traditional patchwork to one which is more current.
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A Pop of Pink
The Grass is Always Greener
Limoncello 14
propaganda rebel
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print and graphics
unruly daring empowering This vigilante, skate wear inspired trend has moved from everyday flannel shirts to striking propaganda graphics that convey political statements. Layered graphics on top of the brushed and pilled blanket stripes, provide the consumer with the opportunity to express a defiant attitude. The dark utilitarian palette is broken up by the use of hazard red highlights.
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Fig 19 Fig 18
With strong nods to skate wear and culture, this trend leads on from the distressed trend which has met the tipping point. Propaganda Rebel is all about making statements about your attitude and views through your choice of clothing. This season sees the introduction of hand drawn back graphics, layered over the top of boldly coloured prints to display personal feelings towards current social and political sitautions.
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Fig 21 Fig 22 - Own Image Fig 20
This trend is hugely influenced by the global political situation. Designers have turned to graffiti artists such as Shepard Fairey for inspiration in terms of propaganda messages and colour palettes. Prabal Gurung, Jeremy Scott and Raul Solis used their AW collections at New York Fashion Week, to demonstrate their defiant attitudes against the political unrest in America. 20
Cut Throat Black
Anarchy Blue
Free Speech Red 21
menswear
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back to bed
Fig 23
menswear
versatile luxurious flamboyant This menswear trend emphasises comfort and adaptability. This season we see nightwear inspiring several key looks on the catwalk. Luxury silks and loose silhouettes are no longer refined to the confines of the bedroom. The must have colour of the season, orange, combines with monochrome tones to create an unfamiliar yet distinctive colour palette.
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Emerging from the 2016 womenswear, it’s now time for this trend to evolve in the menswear arena. This trend is all about comfort. Matching co-ordinates made with luxurious linen and silk fabrics are often styled with loafers or sliders to emphasise the relaxed and informal approach this trend takes. Long lines and loose materials are how AW 17/18 takes influence from sleep wear style.
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Black Out
Burnt Sunset
Cloudy Day 28
the new vintage
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menswear
layered timeless oversized This vintage inspired trend, explores mens outerwear staples and how they have been updated for the new season. This A/W, classic menswear pieces are becoming casual and relaxed. Designers are taking a small step away from the traditional tailored styles we typically see. Neutral tones play the focus in this trend alongside high quality knits and materials.
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It’s without a doubt that roll necks are back, yet this time they’re higher and thicker. Influenced by styles of the late 70’s, this nostalgic trend sees the development of several classics. Layering of luxury knits and oversized collars/ sleeves are all essential fragments of this seasons interpretation . Whether it’s an aviator bomber, a leather jacket or a shearling collared denim jacket – you will not be seen without one of these this Autumn.
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Stonewashed Blue
Saddle Brown
Dusty Desert
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comfort is the new luxury
Fig 34 - Own Image
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menswear
Lavish composed distinctly modern Tailoring meets streetwear. Evolving from the present athleisure trend- luxurious fabrics and rich tones lead the way this season. Everyday sports wear becomes sophisticated and refined through the addition of tailoring and formal sihouettes. A restrained colour palette with the absence of overblown graphics.
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Fig 39 - Own Image Fig 38
Influenced by the success of the athleisure trend and the revival of sportswear brands, this trend takes street wear and makes it its own. Causal style is still a fundamental aspect of this trend however it’s time to smarten up sportswear through tailoring and fabric choices. Matching coloured coordinates inspired by 80s/90s sportswear are key to this trend, although much deeper and richer tones have been applied to the colour palette.
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Fig 43 Fig 42 - Own Image
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Regal Wine More so now than ever before, we are seeing formal and casual wear borrow from one another. This seasons interpretation of the trend, exemplifies this through the use of premium fabrics such as suede, leather, velour and velvet, whilst pile fabrics add a tactile feel.
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Military Indulgence
Bright Opulence 41
visual merchandise
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all i see is signs
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visual merchandise
vibrant excessive engaging This eye-catching trend is a step in a new direction, away from the current minimalistic landscape. Everywhere you look neon signs are becoming the focal point of displays. Consumers are being captivated by this clever marketing tool. Through the use of shapes and colours, brands can communicate a simple message to their audience through the use of their vibrant, Pop Art influenced displays. Fig 45 - Own Image
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Fig 47 - Own Image
The revival of neon signage is one which continues to thrive this season. Developing on from shape influences from emoji culture, this seasons adaptation of the trend uses typography as a key feature. The use of language choices combined with typography styles, allows brands to create a strong tone of voice. Many choose to go down the humorous route, however others are using this trend to make bold statements about culture and society.
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Pink Flamingo
Electric Blue
Oh So White
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Fig 48 - Own Image
modern and minimalistic
Fig 49 - Own Image
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visual merchandise
crisp clean sophisticated This coming season, you will begin to see many brands adopting a less is more approach to visual merchandising. With symmetry and reflection as strong influences upon this trend, brands are provided with the opportunity to create a luxury in store environment which is visually striking yet simplistic. The contemporary monochrome colour palette, provides a blank canvas – allowing the products to speak for themselves.
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Influenced by the continuation of minimalism , this trend is the start of brands looking to the future in terms of product promotion. The symmetrical display of products alongside reflective surfaces, allows the products the stand alone as a focus without any other distractions. Fig 52
This trend is heavily inspired by calm and open nature of art galleries. 52
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Carbon Black
Clean Slate
In The Buff 54
raw earth
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visual merchandise
fluid organic contemporary This stripped back trend has developed from a current botanical focus to one which takes inspiration from the earth’s natural elements and materials. Natural tones and organic textures underpin this trend. Free form structures combined with elemental influences create a refined and contemporary atmosphere.
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Fig 60 - Own Image Fig 59
This trend is highly driven by the consumers want for a first-hand experience with nature. Moving away from a once botanical focus, this trend goes back to basics, looking to the elements and earth’s natural materials as inspiration. This trend explores the natural tones and textures of materials such as wood and stone combined with a slight industrial edge.
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bibliography Burnt Timber
Moss Blanket
On The Rocks 60
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illustrations Figure 2 - Backstage at LFWM. Online Image. 2017 PRINT AND GRAPHICS Figure 3 – Camo Pattern. Online Image. 2017 Figure 4 – Maharishi AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017. Figure 5 – Backstage LFWM, Liam Hodges. Online Image. 2017 Figure 6 – Ximon Lee AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 7 – Liam Hodges AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 8 – Minimum, Premium Trade Show – Berlin. Own Image. 2017 Figure 9 – Block Pattern. Online Image. 2017 Figure 10 – Christopher Shannon AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 11 – Backstage LFWM, Topman. Online Image. 2017 Figure 12 – Backstage LFWM, Christopher Shannon. Online Image. 2017 Figure 13 – Bobby Abley AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 14 – Bauhaus Composition, Piet Mondrain. Online Image. 193742 Figure 15 – Checked Pattern. Online Image. 2017 Figure 16 – Givenchy Men’s AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 17 – Backstage MFW, Versace Menswear. Online Image. 2017 Figure 18 – Backstage MFW, Versace Menswear. Online Image. 2017 Figure 19 – Make Art Not War, Shepard Fairey. Online Image. 2014 Figure 20 – F**k your Wall, Raul Solis NYFW. Online Image. 2017 Figure 21 – Givenchy Menswear AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017. Figure 22 – Wild Clothing, Nottingham. Own Image. 2017.
Figure 29 – Knit Pattern. Online Image. 2017 Figure 30 – J W Anderson AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 31 – Backstage LFWM, Oliver Spencer. Online Image. 2017 Figure 32 – Backstage LFWM, Oliver Spencer. Online Image. 2017 Figure 33 – J W Anderson AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 34 – COW Vintage, Nottingham. Own Image. 2017. Figure 35 – Velvet Texture. Online Image. 2017 Figure 36 – Astrid Andersen AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 37 – Backstage PFW, Les Benjamins. Online Image. 2017 Figure 38 – Neil Barrett AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 39 – Topman, Nottingham. Own Image. 2017. Figure 40 – Palm Angels AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 41 – OBEY Propaganda, SIZE Nottingham. Own Image. 2017. Figure 42 – Bright Trade Show – Berlin. Own Image. 2017 Figure 43 – Willy Chavarria AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 VISUAL MERCHANDISE Figure 44 – Neon Lights Pattern. Online Image. 2017 Figure 45 – Primark, Selfridges – Birmingham. Own Image. 2016 Figure 46 – Gods Own Junkyard. Online Image. 2017 Figure 47 – Obey, Bright Trade Show – Berlin. Own Image. 2017 Figure 48 – Topshop, Nottingham. Own Image. 2017 Figure 49 – Hype, Seek Trade Show – Berlin. Own Image. 2017
MENSWEAR
Figure 50 – Marble Pattern. Online Image. 2017 Figure 51 – Christopher Kane. Online Image. 2017 Figure 52 – Christopher Kane, Mount St Store. Online Image. 2017 Figure 53 – Crisp BLN, Alexa Mall – Berlin. Own Image. 2017 Figure 54 – Victoria Beckham, Dover St Store. Online Image. 2017 Figure 55 – Crisp BLN, Alexa Mall – Berlin. Own Image. 2017
Figure 23 – Starry Night Pattern. Online Image. 2017 Figure 24 – Katie Eary AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 25 – Backstage LFWM, Per Götesson. Online Image. 2017 Figure 26 – Katie Eary AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 27 – Edward Crutchley AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017 Figure 28 – Edward Crutchley AW 17 Catwalk. Online Image. 2017
Figure 56 – Exposed Wood Texture. Online Image. 2017 Figure 57 – Lighting Shower, Bruce Munro. Online Image. 2017 Figure 58 – DIESEL, Nottingham. Own Image. 2017 Figure 59 – Aesop, Sapporo Store. Online Image. 2016 Figure 60 – Urban Outfitters, Nottingham. Own Image. 2017 Figure 61 – Pedro Cazora for Luiza Barulos. Online Image. 2016
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Amy Mercado N0631727 FASH20032