THE SUMMER ISSUE
MORE & MORE
S’MORES DELICIOUS CAMPFIRE FAVORITES
ICE CREAM Sorbet, granitas & more
Women eat ice-cream, men toast marshmallows. — Dianna Hardy, Cry Of The Wolf
MALLOW FEVER Camping season is here, and what’s better than toasted marshmallows for dessert? Try a twist on s’mores for a delicious, campfire-approved treat.
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MARSHMALLOWS INGREDIENTS 1 cup (250ml) water
3 envelopes (21g) unflavored gelatin 2¼ cups (845g) granulated sugar
1 cup (250ml) light corn syrup such as Karo Dash of salt
2 tsp (10ml) vanilla extract
Equal parts powdered sugar and corn starch
to coat marshmallows (about 2 cups in total)
PREPARATION Prepare a cookie tray with lip or sheet pan by lining with parchment paper. In the bowl of a stand mixer with whisk attachment ready, combine 1⁄2 cup of water with gelatin packets. Allow this mixture to stand while you prepare the sugar syrup as follows. Using clip attachment, attach candy thermometer to the side of a small saucepan. With a silicone mixing spatula, combine remaining 1⁄2 cup water with sugar,
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corn syrup and salt. Cook mixture over a medium high flame until temperature reaches soft ball stage, 240°F/115°C, stirring frequently and carefully. As soon as the syrup reaches the desired temperature, remove from heat. Start mixer with gelatin mixture in the bowl on low speed and gradually drizzle in the sugar mixture. When all the syrup is added, increase the speed of the mixer to high. Mix for about 10 minutes, until the mixture has increased in volume three times and looks like thick fluf. Add vanilla extract or other flavoring and mix for one minute until it combines. Pour the mixture out onto your prepared sheet pan and spread evenly using a greased silicone spatula. This is the messiest and most dificult step. Try to get the top surface as even in thickness and as smooth as possible using the spatula. Spray spatula frequently with cooking spray to prevent sticking. Let the marshmallows cool for 4-12 hours. Use a cookie cutter, pizza wheel or kitchen shears to cut marshmallows into desired shapes. Lightly dust finished sweets with powdered sugar and corn starch mixture and place in an airtight container or gift packaging.
REVERSE S’MORES INGREDIENTS (Serves 4) 8 chocolate cookies 4 marshmallows
2 bars white chocolate
PREPARATION Place one-half bar of white chocolate on a chocolate wafer. Torch marshmallows and place over chocolate. Sandwich with a second wafer and enjoy. For an equally delicious, but slightly different spin, try caramel sauce instead of white chocolate. (See photo on p.5)
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S’MORES DIP (opposite page)
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE JARS
INGREDIENTS (Serves 4)
INGREDIENTS (Serves 4)
8 marshmallows
4 large egg yolks
1 cup chocolate chips 8 shortbread cookies
PREPARATION Place chocolate chips in the bottom of a small cast iron skillet and warm over medium heat until melted. Top with marshmallows and torch until toasted. Serve with cookies.
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips 3 tablespoons sugar 2 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste graham cracker crumbs toasted marshmallows
PREPARATION In a bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, melt the chocolate chips with 1/2 cup of the cream. When the chocolate
has completely melted, whisk in the egg yolks one at a time. Add the sugar and mix until fully dissolved. Continue to heat the mixture in the double boiler for 3 minutes, until the chocolate custard has thickened and coats the back of a spoon. If any lumps have developed during cooking, strain the custard through a sieve. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes to 1 hour. Whip the remaining cream with the vanilla bean paste until stiff peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the chocolate custard gently, 1/2 at a time. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Pipe into jars and garnish with graham cracker crumbs, toasted marshmallows or more whipped cream as desired. summer 2016
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Ice Cream Kid-friendly ice creams, sorbet and granita, with decidedly adult interpretations.
CHERRY-VANILLA BEAN ICE CREAM WITH CHERRY SAUCE Rich and decadent, this ice cream features spring’s bounty of cherries. Recipe adapted from Bon Appetit ( June 1999). INGREDIENTS (Serves 8) 2 cups half and half
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 3/4 cup sugar
6 large egg yolks
1 cup chilled whipping cream 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
PREPARATION The day before, freeze the bowl of an ice cream maker. Bring half and half to a
boil in a saucepan. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape in the seeds and add the bean to the pot. Remove from the heat and set aside while preparing the other ingredients. Whisk together the sugar and egg yolks until light and creamy. Whisk one cup of the warm half and half into the yolk mixture. Pour everything back into the saucepan with the remaining half and half. Continue to cook over low heat until the custard thickens and coats the back of a spoon. If any lumps have developed during
cooking, strain the custard through a sieve. Mix in the cream and vanilla extract. Refrigerate until cold (about 2 hours). Place the cooled custard in the bowl of the ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer’s directions for making the ice cream. Add 1 cup of homemade or storebought cherry topping or other flavor of your choosing close to the end of processing. Place in an airtight container and store in the freezer.
BLOOD ORANGE SORBET
CANDIED BLOOD ORANGE PEELS
There’s no need to remove pulp from the juiced oranges in this recipe. Recipe adapted from David Leibovitz
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS (Serves 4)
1 cup water
2 cups blood orange juice (from about six blood oranges)
grated zest from one blood orange 1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
PREPARATION Put sugar in small, non-reactive pan. Add enough juice to thoroughly moisten sugar and heat, stirring frequently, until sugar is completely dissolved. Stir the sugar mixture into the remaining juice and add the Grand Marnier. Chill thoroughly, then process in an ice cream maker. Place sorbet into small bread pan and cover with plastic wrap pressed into the surface. Freeze for at least two hours.
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5 blood oranges
3 cups sugar, plus extra for rolling
PREPARATION Cut tops and bottoms off of the oranges and score into quarters, cutting down only into the peel and not into the fruit. Peel the skin and pith of the orange in large pieces. Save the orange to use in another recipe. Cut the peel into strips about 1/4 inch wide. Put the orange peel in a large saucepan with cold water to cover, bring to a boil over high heat, then pour off the water. Repeat one or two more times depending up how assertive you want the orange peels to be. (I liked the texture and flavor of a two-time blanch best; it still had a touch of bitterness.) Remove the orange peels from the pan. Mix the sugar with 1 cup of water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 8 to 9 minutes (soft thread stage, 230-234°F) Add the peels and simmer gently over low heat. Cook until the peels become translucent, about 45 minutes. Do not stir the peels or you may introduce sugar crystals into the syrup. If necessary, swirl the pan to move the peels around. Drain the peels, saving the syrup for another use. Roll the peels in sugar and dry on a rack for 4 to 5 hours. Store in an airtight container in the rolling sugar.
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GOLDEN CHAI ICE CREAM page 15
at least 8 hours. Freeze according to ice cream maker’s instructions.
worrying about swimsuit season. Garnish with candied orange peel (recipe, p12). Recipe adapted from Alton Brown
This is a wonderful recipe if you have trouble tempering eggs. Cooking all of the ice cream ingredients together is a nearly foolproof way of keeping the eggs unscrambled.
EGG CUSTARD GELATO page 16
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS (Serves 12) SPICED CREAM:
4 cups half & half
1 tablespoon coriander seeds 3 cinnamon sticks
8 cardamom pods
6 thin slices fresh turmeric
2 teaspoons fennel seeds 6 whole cloves
1 teaspoon allspice berries
1 teaspoon black peppercorns 4 Orange Pekoe tea bags
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 1/2 teaspoon salt ICE CREAM:
¾ cup sugar
2 teaspoons corn starch
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 eggs, depending on size
PREPARATION Stir together Spiced Cream ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook until bubbles form at the edges, then turn off heat and cover. Steep for 15 minutes. Remove tea bags and bring mixture up to simmer, then remove from heat, cover and steep for 30 minutes more. Combine Ice Cream ingredients in medium saucepan and strain the steeped Spiced Cream into it. Over medium heat, bring to just below boiling, then lower heat to simmer until thick and creamy, stirring often. Remove pot from burner and add evaporated milk. Pour mixture into a bowl and refrigerate for 16 summer 2016
Basic ingredients and techniques yield something so much greater than the sum of its parts. Recipe courtesy of Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking. INGREDIENTS (Serves 6-8) 6 egg yolks
3/4 cup granulated sugar 2 cups milk
Peel of 1/2 orange, with none of the white pith beneath
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier liqueur
PREPARATION Put the egg yolks and sugar into a bowl and beat the yolks until they become pale yellow and form soft ribbons. Put the milk and orange peel in a saucepan, turn the heat to medium, and bring the milk to a slow simmer, being careful not to let it boil. Add the hot milk to the beaten yolks, pouring it in a thin stream through a fine strainer. Add a little at a time, stopping each time to beat it into the yolks. Add the Grand Marnier, stirring well. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan, turn on the heat to medium, and beat constantly for about 2 minutes without letting it boil, then remove from heat and allow it to become completely cold. Freeze according to ice cream maker’s instructions.
COFFEE GRANITA (opposite page)
Refreshing and light, this granita will allow you to enjoy the heat without
2 cups lukewarm espresso or strong brewed coffee 1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons coffee-flavored liqueur
1 teaspoon orange or lemon zest (optional)
PREPARATION Combine all ingredients and stir until sugar has dissolved completely. Pour into a 9x13 pan and place in the freezer for 1/2 hour. Remove the partially frozen mixture from the freezer and use a fork to break up any ice crystals that have formed, stirring well. Return the mixture to the freezer and repeat every 20 to 30 minutes for about 4 hours. As the mixture hardens, it will be necessary to scrape the ice with the fork to fully break up the crystals. Make sure the coffee does not freeze into chunky blocks, which will be very hard to break up later. Once the mixture is fully frozen, fluff with a fork and allow the flakes to “dry” in the freezer for another half hour before serving. The granita can be made up to a day ahead and kept in the freezer, covered with plastic wrap. Fluff well before serving.
You may know that adding just an ounce or two of alcohol will lower the freezing point and make your desserts more scoopable so you can serve them straight from the freezer without thawing. Instead of the vodka that’s often recommended, why not pair them with complementary flavors of alcohol? That’s what we’ve done here, to delicious effect, if we do say so ourselves.
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