EXPOSED

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Exposed

Inspiration for aspiring fashion designers

Winter 2012 £6.00/€ 7.00

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Think you’ve got it? Do you have what it takes? No matter what budget, we’ve got the places for YOU to visit Inspirational interviews with Francesca Stewart and Dominic Brown

Artwork by Francesca Stewart

A Clothes Show Live Special


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This is content for display purposes only


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A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR Hello! Welcome to EXPOSED! This quarter, we will be looking into what makes the Clothes Show Live SO popular, along with inspirational interviews with two graduate designers. No matter what your budget is, we have two cities covered that could spark life into your designs, along with inspiring interviews with two undergraduates who are making it all happen... and plenty more lined up too! Enjoy! Love Amy

CONTENTS 005 HAVE YOU GOT WHAT IT TAKES? 006 FINDING THE INSPIRATION 007 HOW TO FIND IT INSPIRATIONAL FINDS OF THE QUARTER 008 MANCHESTER 012 NEW YORK

The creation of EXAG pg 32-33

Clothes Show Live Special

CLOTHES SHOW SPECIAL 016 THE CLOTHES SHOW LIVE 018 THE GRADUATE CATWALK 022 SOPHIE MCKEATING INTERVIEW 023 LOREN JOHNSON INTERVIEW 024 INSTITUTE OF THE QUARTER 026 YOU GOT SPOTTED! 028 STOP STRESSING THE NEXT BIG THINGS 032 DOMINIC BROWN 034 FRANCESCA STEWART

Pages 16-27 Information is accurate at the time of print. The publishers cannot be held responsible for mistakes or omissions. Reproduction in whole or part of any of the text, illustrations or photography with the express permission of the publisher is strictly forbidden. Winter 2012 EXPOSED 3


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Why settle for anything less

This is content for display purposes only


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HAVE YOU GOT WHAT IT TAKES? to make the cut... ‘The trick is to give people what they never knew they wanted.’ Diana Vreeland, editor of American Vogue from 1963 to 1971.

So, before launching yourself head first into a career in the fashion industry, it will help if you find out your talents... and your weaknesses. That’s if you don’t know them already. Yes, we all have them, but the key to SUCCESS is to be realistic with your skills and to overcome your downfalls. Examine this checklist and make a note of where your talents and shortcomings lie... remember, you CAN make the changes..

Ambition: Do you have a strong will to achieve? Artistic: Do you have the ability to visualise and draw/create 2D and 3D designs? Assertive: Can you state your point of view and know what you want to achieve? Business minded: Are you good at spotting opportunities and aware of costs/benefits? Charming: Are you the cream of the crop, do you communicate well with others? Colour sense: Do you use colours accordingly and inventively? Commitment: Are you a hard worker and prepared to go that extra mile? Communication skills: Can you express your opinion but also listen well? Competitiveness: Can you use your skills to give the edge? Confidence: Are you confident with your skills, creations and in others? Conscientious: Can you take the rough with the smooth? Creative: Can you produce natural original designs and generate new ideas? Curiosity: Are you curious of people, design and society? Decisiveness: Do you make decisions quickly and take responsibility? Efficiency: Are organised and thrifty words that describe you? Energy: Can you put the hours in and stick to the job? Flair: Are you chic, well groomed and make everything appear effortless? Flexibility: Can you accept change and adapt to constructive criticism? Health: Do you have stamina and portray reliable qualities?

Humility: Can you ask for help, admit weakness and know your limits? Humour: Do you create a good atmosphere to work in? Imagination: Have you got abstract ideas and plenty of inspiration? Independence: Are you able to work freelance and unsupervised? Initiative: Have you got that ‘get up an go’ about you? Languages: Can you speak other languages or willing to travel? Leadership: Do you give good advice and have authority? Literacy: Are you articulate in both speech and your writing? Organisational skills: Can you plan, co-ordinate, meet deadlines? Passion for fashion: Do you inspire others with clothing and ideas? Patience: Can you suffer fools, be tolerant and see things through? Perception: Do you have troubleshooting and intellectual skills, graphic skills and a quick eye? Practical skills: Have you got a wide range of practical skills? Punctuality: Would you say you’re a good timekeeper? Resourcefulness: Can you think laterally and solve prolems? Risk-taking: Do you have entrepreneurial skills, are you considered daring? Talent: Do you show salesmanship and have an unusual level of ability? Team player: Do you enjoy group activities and work well in a team? Temperament: Are you calm and friendly to be around? Versatility: Are you unphased by challenges? Writing skills: Have you got analytical skills and able to write letters, reports and reviews? Winter 2012 EXPOSED 5


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FINDING THE INSPIRATION ...

Go on, the deadline seems ages away. Put off the work for another day, right? Wrong. Ever heard the saying dont put off tomorrow what you can do today? We are not saying go and panic rush your projects, but we are saying you need to read this first.

You’ve been given your brief, the deadline date and what the project should entail. It’s that time of year again where you have to think of yet more new shiny ideas to bring to the table, and you’re stuck. Don’t let it get you down, and certainly don’t keep pushing the start of your work further away. You may sit there and wonder how fashion designers manage to come up with so many marvellous new ideas. The truth is that these ideas are rarely completely new. Creating designs is managed by reinventing the world around them! We aim to show you that you can develop designs from almost any source at all. Whether you are exploring the world of fine art, the buildings of your nearest town, New York culture or the basic, familiar objects in your home and garden.

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Establishing a theme for a selection of individual garments can quite often be the hardest part. It is important that they all share a cohesive ‘look’. A daunting aspect of creativity is being faced with a blank page, but ideas don’t have to be spirited out of thin air! Inspiration for design themes can be found everywhere and anywhere, whether your source is a sea shell on the beach, a splendid skyscraper or the delicate clothes at a vintage fair. If you research well, your topic will automatically influence your garment ideas. The furthest extremes can, and should, be explored- anything can be watered down; it is much harder to spice up something dull!

Fashion often relies on forms of art for inspiration; the art deco magnificence is a great example of an artistic endeavour that easily inspired garment design. Art galleries are easy to find and more often than not, cheap to explore. Why not take a sketch pad and absorb the paintings of places you visit. Your opportunities for exploring all different themes are unlimited. You can visit museums, or wander through cities, find interesting sculptures, research into films, photography and books even to find new inspiration.

Don’t be put off by the idea of visiting a museum, this is a key way of obtaining raw materials and adapting interesting ideas from the past. Take time to find objects that inspire you and take a good general overview of all the exhibits to pin point a few key items. Doodle in your sketchbook the overall large shapes of objects but also concentrate on minute details. Inspiration doesn’t just have to come from historical clothes, also take interest in ceramics, sculpture, jewellery and calligraphy. From your sketches you’ll be able to successfully develop your ideas when you get home.

It may seem surprising to use buildings as inspiration for clothes, but both clothing and architecture are threedimensional and structured. Useful ideas can be found from investigating both the overall theme of a building and the smaller intricate details. Ideas can emerge from many sorts of architecture, whether it be historical buildings like a cathedral or famous modern landmarks. Research into places that you might like to visit, then take plenty of pictures and sketch the highlights of bits you want to remember.

Inspiration can be triggered by parts of everyday life. It isn’t always necessary to go searching for new ideas. Nature can play a big part in what new designs appear on the catwalks. Think of embroidery and lacework ideas, these can be derived from a frosted spider’s web or the skeleton of a leaf. Look closely into your attic, what interesting artefacts could you have stashed away? Antique textiles with intricate patterns could easily inspire a whole sketchbook of new designs.

Here at Exposed we’re going to do some research for our readers and each issue we will give you an insight into the very best destinations for you to find new inspiration, whatever your budget and however far you wish to travel. The answer could just be on your doorstep, or you may need to broaden your horizons by venturing to foreign lands! Whether it be the case of jumping on a train to your nearest city or packing your suitcase for an exciting expedition we hope to answer some of your queries and give you an insight into where the inspiration lies… Winter 2012 EXPOSED 7


MANCHESTER

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ultural, bright and bustling are words that may spring to mind when you think of the streets of Manchester. With its endless tourist attractions and hidden treasures, this Northern city can open a Pandora’s box of magical destinations. Manchester is a city where colourful and exotic inspiration could be hiding behind every winding backstreet…

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So, think that only the best creations are sourced from the chicest parts of the globe? You couldn’t be more wrong! One of the best ways to create gleaming new ideas is to jump on a train to your nearest city, wear a pair of comfy shoes and most of all… don’t forget your vital equipment: your camera and sketchpad!


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ow, unless you’re passionate about architecture, or have a love for the design of structures, you probably wouldn’t think twice about the design and planning that goes along with creating such artwork. Yes, I say art because buildings really can be a form of artwork- not just somewhere to keep things hidden away! Ok, Manchester cathedral is a good place to start, full of history and beautiful architecture and it sits just at the end of Deansgate. It may not be the largest or oldest cathedral around but that shouldn’t stop you taking a visit. Its detailed features make a fantastic contrast to its surrounding buildings, highlighting the stained glass windows and carved wood décor. If architecture isn’t your cup of tea, the fabulous flower displays that run throughout the building are enough to brighten up any afternoon. The Royal Exchange Theatre and Town Hall can be found deeper into the heart of the city, and these buildings can also make great photographs to pull abstract designs from later on in the process. If you’re standing by the Royal Exchange, then you shouldn’t be able to miss the Manchester Wheel. It is an interesting structure in itself, but for the fair price of £7.50, why not get involved and take a trip to get some landscaping photos to take home with you?! For you fashion fanatics, most probably all of you, Manchester is crawling with Aladdin’s caves and cocooning magical finds from vintage, to retro, to sci-fi

To get an idea of just about how inspiring the heart of Manchester could be, you would have to clock up days of mapping out the city, trailing round its shops and visiting endless attractions. Now, that doesn’t sound much fun, does it? But, if you pay a bit of attention… you could let Exposed do the hardest part for you!

inspired creations. There are hundreds of shops which sell pre-loved items alongside brand new, style must-haves! ‘Rags to Bitches’ is a renowned dress agency positioned right in the heart of the Northern Quarter, which is home to a famous collection of hidden treasures. If you fancy yourself as a bit of a history lover, you’ll be well aware that the links between Art and fashion go as far back as the Renaissance, and Manchester is home to multiple art galleries which the majority are free admission. Take the Manchester Cathedral: M3 1SX opportunity on a rainy day to visit the galleries and explore a world of art and Royal Exchange Theatre: M2 culture. The Whitworth Art Gallery, the 7DH Lowry, The Chinese Arts Centre and the Town Hall: M2 5DB Manchester Art Gallery are just a small number of ones to explore. Some places Rags to Bitches: M4 1LG may be funny about you taking photos, so this is when a sketchpad and pencil Whitworth Art Gallery: M15 will come in handy. It may be more fun 6ER than you imagine! The Lowry: M50 3AZ Everyone can relate to the memories of Chinese Arts Centre: M4 1EU stuffy museum school trips and soggy sandwiches at lunchtime, but whatever Imperial War Museum: M17 1TZ you may think about them, don’t be so quick to dismiss them! Don’t be shy Museum of Science and about visiting the museums based Industry: M3 4FP around Manchester, if another rainy day approaches, take a sketchbook and The People’s History Museum: spend half a day browsing around the M3 3ER antiques before selecting the desired objects that you want to concentrate on. Manchester Museum: M13 9PL Manchester is home to: Imperial War Manchester Arndale: M4 3AQ Museum, Museum of Science and Industry, People’s History Museum and Afflecks Palace: M4 1PW the Manchester Museum.

ADDRESSES

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Now, the Arndale Shopping centre may be easily dismissed, but it is probably one of the best and easiest destinations to collect valuable information from. Use the high street shops to get in touch with what designs are most popular, what themes are spilling out of the glass windows, and even use a shopping trip as an excuse to take note what the other shoppers are wearing. You never know, in a place which draws so many fashion lovers together, you’re bound to see an eclectic mix of styles, fabrics and designs. And who said studying was all work, work, work?! Manchester is renowned for its cultural mix of residents and they sure know how to party. Get yourself down to Birdcage on a Saturday night and prepare to be amazed by the collection of impressively dressed individuals! If a flamboyant night out isn’t quite up your street, the beautiful arches of Deansgate Locks will not disappoint. Day or night, the ‘Locks’ showcase a picturesque scene of bars and clubs along the canal and as winter is upon us, see if you can spot the crystallised stalactites appear under the train track arches. Watch the night time come alive with the hustle and bustle of party-goers and the bright lights. LED dress designer, Moritz Waldemeyer found colourful lights his inspiration, so who’s to say you need to stick to your desk!

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MANCHESTER

Street art is EVERYWHERE and more so on the walls of the big cities. Use the numerous wall galleries of art to fill your sketch books with original and inspiring designs. Graffiti art may not be everyone’s idea of ‘artwork,’ but it can certainly create ‘off the wall’ inspiration for exotic and jazzy ideas. A collection of imaginative street art can be found around the walls of Afflex Palace, which is in the Northern Quarter of Manchester. However, without even trying you’ll probably come across some quirky artwork for yourself.


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Welcome to...

New Y

Don’t waste any more time, let Exposed take you on our whirl wind adventure of the world’s busiest and brightest city. If you’re looking for the daddy of inspiration, you’ve come to the right place.

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he city that never sleeps? New York, of course. So famous it’s even got a song written about it, or a few for that matter. Being one of the worlds most fashion forward cities in the world, this party capital is home to a whole array of exciting attractions that could send your pens into overdrive. So if your taking a wintery whirlwind trip to NYC this season make sure you take a few spare pens along with you! Don’t forget your thermals, you certainly don’t want to be caught short without those, this time of year the streets of this bustling city can be as low as -10 degrees! Ouch! Landing at JFK, after an eight hour flight, followed by a 45-minute yellow cab ride into the very heart of the city, you’ll probably be feeling more straight to bed than hitting the sidewalks, but try not to waste too much time sleeping, you are in the city that never sleeps so you better start adjusting! Prior to the trip I purchased a ‘City Pass,’ which are available from numerous travel websites, but to be safe, I’d recommend you use the city

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pass website: www.citypass.co.uk. This will enable you to delve into all New Yorks most prized attractions, and meaning that you will see the big apple for a fraction of the ticket prices! Arriving at ‘Novotel’ around 4pm New York time, the bags dumped and a quick freshen-up, I turned right out of my hotel and instantly walked onto the bustling, neon streets of Broadway. Enormous TV screens decorated the sky scraping buildings and parades of people were gathered around shop entrances and Disney characters littered the roads that were sectioned off from the traffic. As it was New Year’s day the atmosphere was magical and the leftover excitement from the New Year’s Eve celebrations was still electrifying the crowds. After wading through the buzz, I found my way to Fifth Ave (using an incredibly handy, pop-out map) and had a scan around the shops, familiarising myself for some serious shopaholic spending later on in the trip! After a super-size pizza at the little restaurant ‘Bella Italia,’ an early night was needed if I was going to get up bright and early and embrace what the city had to offer!


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w York City. Day 1: After a recharge of my batteries and a good ten minutes spent layering on the thermals, it was 8am and I was ready to hit the streets. Breakfast could wait if it meant a shorter queue for the Empire State and from researching before hand, it appears that after 10am it can get extremely busy, so I headed over to 5th Ave early which was around a 20 minute walk. New York has a very simple and cheap underground Subway system, there is practically one gracing every street corner, but I found the best way to see the city was by foot, unless of course you were travelling towards places further afield. It’s not just the views from the top that are incredible, the decor and architecture inside the building are just as astounding. The grand hallway and ceilings are covered with gold and tiny details in the flooring shows just how much work went into the creation of the masterpiece. Once to the top, included with the City Pass, there is a piece of audio equipment available, which informs you of all the sights you can see, alongside an education into the history of the building. This really helped with gaining an understanding of the city and where the different areas were. Surprisingly, it only took a year and 45 days to build, can you imagine how long it would take if it was

built today?! Once back down to the ground again, with a slightly grumbling stomach, a little deli was adequate for a quick stop off for egg on toast, ‘over easy’ as they say, meaning eggs flipped over! After breakfast, the Public Library and Grand Central Station were next on the agenda. Both as spectacular as the other, it was a dream to absorb in the architecture, not to mention the excitement of visiting somewhere that you can pinpoint hundreds of films to! Look out for the big centre clock situated on top of the stations information desk, the whole face is made from mother of pearl!

Situated right by Central Station is another hidden treasure not to be missed: The Chrystler Building. It won’t appear easy to find, so you’ll have to look carefully on your guides, but be sure not to end your trip without a nosy inside. It’s free entry, so there really are no excuses. The decorative artwork, structure and whole architectecture of this building is absolutely breathtaking. To think that every day businessmen and women have the privalege of working in a building that is so beautiful, really does bring out the green eyed monster. From the flooring, to the marble walls and onto the intricate detailing of the high and powerful ceiling, there are so many memories and so much inspiration that can be taken away. Enough examining buildings for one day, once you’re here, there’s so much to see that the first thought is to try and cram everything in all at once. However, sight seeing could wait until tomorrow, Bloomingdales was next on the agenda!

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ay 2: Up bright and early and full of coffee and toast, the plans for the morning were to head over to the other side of town to The National History Museum. As a personal favourite, excited was an understatement. No expectations can Winter 2012 EXPOSED 13


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prepare you for what is housed in those four walls. Three hours later and only three of the five floors had been covered. There was every species of stuffed animal imaginable, to the beauty of original American head dresses made up of tiny, exotic bird feathers. Unsure of what to expect, apart from a history of animals and agriculture- The National History Museum was the highlight of the whole trip. The entire building was jam-packed and bursting with the most amazing and stunning pieces of culture and art ever to be seen.

again, and gave the opportunity of a site-seeing boat trip! As you can imagine the boat décor was not, shall we say, quite like that of a 5* cruise liner, so this one is more for those of you who fancy a nosy at the architecture of the island, along with a bit of its history, and of course a good close up of the famous Statue of Liberty! Now although the pace of the boat didn’t quite match a James Bond movie, I’d advise cameras are a much better option than attempting to sketch things down- you can always refer back to your pictures remember!

After coffee and a cake in Central Park Café, which is another brilliant place for playing ‘guess the film,’ which New York is fantastic for, next on the agenda was the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MoMA.) This is another brilliant reason to secure a city pass, alongside the Empire State Building and the National History Museum, entrance to the MoMA was also included in the price. From: ‘Drawings and Prints,’ ‘European Sculpture and Decorative Arts,’ to ‘Modern and Contemporary Art,’ there are hundreds of galleries that can cater for every individuals tastes and preferences. I’d be sure that you have a sketch pad at the ready during the majority of the trip- but especially ensure you have it during a mooch around the MoMA. It is most certainly a hidden gem.

The early bird catches the worm, as they say, and with the boat trip polished off before lunchtime, next on the agenda was a spot of lunch and a quick use of the underground to head over to another part of town: the financial district. This part of town is home to Ground Zero- the beautifully created memorial site from the twin towers tragedy. Not to undermine the sadness and sheer emotion that the whole presence of the place gives you, the whole site boasts beauty, honour and remembrance. In particular, the two reflection pools that were built on the site are spectacular to study, alongside engaging in all the stories, love and history that in turn comes with the structures. Ground zero is free admission to anyone who is interested in taking a trip there, and even if you do not plan on taking any design inspiration away from the site, I would advise anyone to take a visit and feel inspired by the dedication to build such an astounding memorial.

On route to heading back down to the bright lights of Broadway, Madison Avenue greets you in all its glory, with its towering, stand-alone stores, encasing you with glamour, sparkles and money! Bulgari and Cartier stand proudly down this Ave with great embellished crystals swarming their walls, and not forgetting the most famous of them all: Tiffanys! Who could possibly come to New York and not be drawn to Tiffanys?! With five floors full of chic and style, the perfectly arranged diamond displays to the door guards dressed in their suit and top hats, the whole experience is literally quite spellbinding. If I was a rich girl… well, I think I’d have bought the whole shop!

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ay 3: All good things must come to an end, and this was the last full day of the trip. None-the-less, there wasn’t to be a moment wasted, there were still plenty of things to do and see before it would be bed time once again, and the UK would be calling once the sun has risen again. The citypass was to prove usefull once 14 EXPOSED Winter 2012

One last piece of advice- and this is from one fashion lover to another! Don’t leave the financial district without taking a trip into Century 21. This enormous department store is like TK Maxx, only twenty times better. Designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs are bursting out of the doors, and the prices compared to the UK are hugely discounted! I suggest that you might want to go here towards the end of your visit as you may want some money left to eat! So, there you have it, New York all covered. Of course there are places that haven’t been visited, but all in all there has been a wide selection of attractions covered, and a fantastic amount of inspiration that can be taken away from such an interesting city. It isn’t a cheap visit with flights averaging around £500, but it’s an opportunity that shouldn’t be missed!


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Live

The Clothes Show T

he Clothes Show really is at the heart of British fashion and we owe a huge thank you to it’s ambassador, Caryn Franklin, for making the event such a huge success. Situated in Birmingham, the show took place at the NEC from the 7-11 December. Exposed went along to get a sneak of the magic‌ Not only is the Clothes Show Live a fantastic day out, with the endless

amounts of shopping that could be done (note to self, definitely wear flat shoes next year!) But, it is a fantastic opportunity for those looking to kick-start a career in the fashion industry!

performances showcased hundreds of fabulous collections from an eclectic mix of designers, from high street fashion through to couture.

All collections were displayed by the most stunning, long-legged, tiny During the day, the Suzuki Fashion waited, models you have ever seen, Theatre put on five, jaw-droppingly but there was no time for the green fabulous performances, all presented eyed monster, as not only was this a by British fashion designer of the fashion show, each collection told a moment, Henry Holland and star different story and was brought alive stylist: Grace Woodward. All by exotic, energetic dancers in flamboyant outfits. Heads up- this is not to be missed! The diet coke image catwalk ran consecutively throughout the day and shared its runway between showcasing Autumn/ Winter High Street collections and the Graduate Catwalk, which gave chosen graduates the opportunity to showcase their final year designs and to give the public an insight into what to look out for in the future.

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The Clothes Show

Throughout the day, the Style Studio hosted talks by top industry experts and leading stylists, alongside workshops and career seminars all aimed to inspire those who are aiming for a career in the fashion industry. We went along to get a nosy into the life and luxuries of fashion designer Mark Fast, as he got stuck in with a Q&A session with fierce and feisty, fashionhungry entrepreneurs! For the first year running, Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model Live Catwalk took place in the Style Boutique area of the Clothes Show. The catwalk, that was hosted by former BINTM judge, Charley Sheen, meant that those fashion forward individuals, who never miss a show, were able to see what they normally watch on their TV screen, direct and fresh in the flesh. We watched as Letitia Herod, recently crowned winner of series 8 of Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model, strutted her very beautiful stuff alongside the other remaining contestants.

Back to wearing your flat shoes, trust me, I wish I had, you can shop ‘til you drop in the midst of the countries favourites shops, boutiques and vintage brands, all situated in the Vision Village. As many of you will agree, standing out from your friends is what makes fashion so fun. The Graduate ASOS Marketplace was a fabulous eye-opener to finding one of pieces and quirky textiles. Have a look for yourself on the ASOS website.

Clothes Show Live is the UK’s largest and hugely popular, fashion and beauty event and this year, its 24th year running, did not disappoint! With its fabulously fashionable, inspirational and interactive shows throughout its five-day run it should be a key event in any fashionista’s diary…

If it’s serious fashion that’s more your cup of tea, then it would be the Style Boutique that you would make a beeline for. Designer collections and high-end labels were all home here. Very nice garments, at also a very nice price! When it came to doing some serious shopping, we had more fun routing around the ASOS Marketplace to see what treasures we could dig out!

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GLORIOUS GRADUATES!

Clothes Show Live is no stranger to being all about looking out to uncover new, talented young people for the future and this year was not to disappoint. This certainly isn’t the event to hide the spotlight from up and coming designers, and with the creation of the ‘Graduate Catwalk,’ all eyes were on ten of the hottest and freshest new talent of 2012. These ten, hugely talented finalists, all showcased their final year collections four times throughout the day and surprisingly the 18 EXPOSED Winter 2012

attention to detail was spectacular, it was made obvious very quickly why these were the chosen ones. They shared the Diet Coke Catwalk, with the Virtual High Street Catwalk, each show lasted an hour: one hour for the Grad Catwalk then alternating with one hour for the virtual catwalk, just enough time for those beautiful models to have a well-earned rest (we really wouldn’t have minded strutting our stuff down the catwalk for hours at a time, being made to wear such fabulous attire- we’re not jealous, honest!)


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We couldn’t get away without doing a bit of investigating, so we worked our magic and went to have a sneak peak backstage to find out more about these shiny new faces in the fashion world. “We’ve previously done grad shows, at a pretty basic level, but the point of this show is the professionalism that they then go on towards. When you look at the grad shows, they’re nice but it’s not all as pulled together and accessories are much simpler. But, with this level of the MA’s, you can actually see them becoming recognised designers,” said stylist and coordinator, Harriet Jagger. It was Harriet herself who freshly hand picked these final, juicy, ten graduates from a bunch of the countries leading art colleges, “With a bit of help from the colleges as well! Because, you know, they know them after having them, [for two or three years] because we didn’t want to promote someone who maybe after one season would fall apart.” Being a last minute decision, Harriet delved in at the deep end and had only a few days before the show was open to organise a hot off the rails, pulled together catwalk, that ran smoother than the designs themselves and that would get the media attention that was required. She approached some of the top colleges including: Central St Martins, Royal College of Art, London College of Fashion and alongside those, included two Birmingham institutes: Birmingham Institute of Art and Birmingham City, “We wanted to go to the next-level and these are the best colleges in England.”

As we all know, it isn’t an easy ride getting your foot in the fashion industry, so when Clothes Show Live, armed with Harriet Jagger offers you to showcase your hard sweat-and-tearedover designs, to groups of women who are bigger fans of fashion than 13-yearolds are of One Direction, you take it! And what a success it was. With thanks to Harriet Jagger, her quick and efficient costume-changes, along with effortlessly glamorous models and fabulously fierce designs, the MA catwalk was a recipe for success and evidently made a very good impression with its on-lookers: “I think it’s a really good idea, it gives graduates a chance to maybe get noticed, as well as be taken seriously, which hasn’t happened here before- and I’ve been coming here for the past five years.” Said Rebecca Johnson, a student at Staffordshire University. With the Clothes Show Live being such a huge annual event, full of fashion maniacs, what better place to give people a taster of the next generation of designers? With so many commercial companies present and with 120,000- plus, expected guests over the next five days, this new opportunity of promoting their designs is a dream come true. Hoping to attract some backing and sponsorship, it wouldn’t surprise me if they aren’t snapped up quickly, this event may open a big shiny door for these graduates into the fashion world.

have other small generation shows that they do, so they might be chosen for that as well, like I said some of them are already doing that,” said Harriet. “Then as that’s the next level, they’ll get sponsors and from then they’ll be creating work for their own labels and their own collections.” To believe that these designers have only recently graduated, I dare say a few current designers may have to up thier game, watch their back and their toes for that matter, to stop them being swiftly trodden on! “It’s been amazing, I mean it’s the first day and people are already saying my god, this is really fantastic,” remarked Harriet. With events like this starting to help graduates delve into the deep-end and show their talents off to such a wider audience, the idea of introducing fresh faces in the designer world is exciting and hopefully a revelation in the fashion world to be celebrated! For a very smart-choiced, last minute decision, we can’t wait to see how the next years show pans out…

“Quite a lot of them already have backing, and a few are going on to do Fashion Scout at Fashion Week, they

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Left: Bethany Twig Above: Dinu Bodiciu Bottom left to right: Timur Kim, Tim Rhys Evans, Sophie McKeating

20 EXPOSED Winter 2012


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Above left to right: Ming Pin Tien, Yulia Kondranania, May Tang Bottom left to right: Lorren Johnson, James Whitehouse

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SOPHIE MCKEATING GRADUATE FASHION SHOW DESIGNER: BIRMINGHAM INSTITUTE OF ART

Luckily for us, among their busy schedules, we were able to grab five minutes with two of the starring ladies, to talk about how they felt when they were asked to showcase their collections at the Clothes Show Live and how the first day had gone so far. Birmingham Institute of Art and Design graduate: Sophie Mckeating and Royal College of Art graduate: Lorren Johnson. Sophie graduated from the Institute of Art and Design in 2012 with a BA (Hons) degree in Fashion design. Take a look at Ralph Lauren and other equestrian inspired designers, more often than not there is a fine line between refined and stuffy and elegantly tailored. Sophie’s collection uses the inspiration of equestrian dress brought innovation to a ‘prim and proper’ look. Riding hats accompanied her stunning collection of printed silk, long dresses and the stunning design of the heavily caped coat. Her signature piece had to be the black, bold shouldered fringe dress, which resembled the tail or mane of a very well groomed show horse.

So, Sophie, how did you feel when you were asked to showcase your collection at The Clothes Show Live?

Well, as you can imagine I was really excited! I should hope so as well! (Now I get a grin!) How do you think today has gone so far then, being it’s the first day of the five, and the first time the Clothes Show have run the Graduate Catwalk?

I think so far it’s been a great success. It’s gone really well and all to plan so. It’s a really good chance for graduates to get exposure.

collection has been sat in my wardrobe since I graduated, so it’s nice to get it out and to be seen. This must be a great way to end the year for you then, what are your plans for next year?

Well I have already planned to move to London, to work in high street fashion for international womenswear. Wow, pretty big then! Who are you working for?

I can’t say yet! Go on you can tell us!

Nooo, no really, I can’t, sorry! I’m pretty excited though!

who are your inspirations?

I really love Hussian Shallian, and Jill Sander- she does really nice minimalistic designs, oh and Matthew Williamson, he’s one of my favourites too. So, as a former fashion design student, you’ll understand how hard it is to start at the bottom, what advice would you give to other undergraduates that are looking to take a career in the fashion industry?

It sounds boring but honestly just lots of hard work- you’ve got to stick with it, and then in the end you’ll be finished and it’ll all be worth it.

Are you enjoying yourself?

Yes! I’m having a really good time. This 22 EXPOSED Winter 2012

Oh ok, well tell us what designers you aspire to and

Thanks Sophie, and good luck!


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LOREN JOHNSON GRADUATE FASHION SHOW DESIGNER: ROYAL COLLEGE OF ART

Lorren Johnson studied her degree of a BA (Hons) in fashion design at the Royal College of Art in London, where she graduated in 2012. Quite often appearing trashy if not created by the right designer, Lorren gave street and urban clothing a new edge, and these designs were anything but trash. With the reinvention of sportswear making a swift return to our wardrobes this season, Lorren was right on–trend with her collection of athletically shaped jumpsuits accompanied by casual drawsting. Acid and neon colours gave her designs a bold statement with chain printed silk. The result? A hip-hop themed trend of street vs chic.

Who knows, these names may appear sooner than you think in the big wide world of fashion!

Hi Lorren! First thing- wow! I especially love this collection, I like the fact that I could buy one of your jumpsuits and wear it! They’re fab.

Thank you! I like it too! (She’s laughing) How does it feel to be able to watch this many people watching your designs on the catwalk?

I’ve done Graduate Fashion Week, but there were no-way near as many people there, as there is here, I’m really excited to be here!

was Tyrone Labou and it was all images of women dressed in men’s clothes and done up like Snoop Dogg. How well do you think the graduate fashion show has gone today?

Really well! With it being pretty last minute and to get it all organised this quickly, I think it’s really successful. It’s a great opportunity to get our names noticed and to hopefully make an impression. Apart from doing multiple fashion shows, did you get any work experience whilst you were an undergrad?

I can imagine! So, tell me how you decided on this theme and where your inspiration came from?

Yes, I did a placement for Jonathan Saunders as a Technical Drawer that lasted three months.

I saw an editorial piece in ‘Pop Magazine’ that was called ‘Snoop in the Hamptons.’ The photographer

How important do you think it is to gain industry

experience, before jumping into the fashion industry?

I’d definitely say it’s important because you learn things that you wouldn’t from just getting a degree and most designers or companies look into what work experience you’ve done just as much as the degree you’ve got. So do you have any plans for 2013?!

Yes! This next year is hopefully going to be really good, I’ve got my own label! (BIG grin!) Well, I’m co-director and fashion designer for a label called ‘Dirty Astronaunts’ so I’m getting busy with that. Wow, well done, I hope the creation of your new label goes really well for you, and good luck!

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INSTITUTE OF THE QUARTER And this time we catch up with the University of Falmouth and three of its most prized possesions... 24 EXPOSED Winter 2012


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Do you not think it suits me?”

Pouting and posing at my SLR camera, Harry Bartlett could give Victoria Beckham a run for her money. Dressed in a fluorescent, green and hairy, vintage jacket, Harry prances around the camera pulling his ‘catwalk’ pose several times, just before ordering his co-photographer Laura Campbell and Patrick Gottelier: head of department of art and design at Falmouth University, to: “Stand there, don’t smile, strike a pose, don’t look at the camera...” Within this issue of Exposed, to accompany our ‘Clothes Show Live’ theme, we decided that instead of you sending us reasons why we should feature your University or College, instead, we would go hunting for an Institute worthy of promoting, on our very precious, glossy pages!

With the Clothes Show Live attended by representatives from 35 top UK fashion colleges and Universities, we had a tough competition on our hands for picking whom we thought were the best of the bunch and who would make the best and most interesting feature for our readers… Plotted quite splendidly next to the ASOS market place (that was the next task of the day- shopping!) All institutions had their own individual stores set up, with the majority aiming to showcase some of their most creative designs, alongside promoting their institute, while all the time shouting a less obvious rendition of ‘my school is better than your school.’ Having spotted me with a camera, surprisingly before I even saw THAT green jacket, a bright eyed and bushy tailed, (I’m sure he’d prefer me to say a perfected mane of curls) skinny and flamboyant young man, with his oversized, very-now, glasses perched on his sharp nose that was perfectly accompanied by his razor cheekbones, without hesitation, made a beeline for me.

Both second year, fashionphotographers (who’d have guessed) this was Harry and Laura’s first visit to the Clothes Show, however, supervisor for the day Patrick is not a stranger to the glitz and glamour that this show brings to an otherwise cold and miserable December week in the heart of Birmingham. Although a first for both students, neither of them are strangers to networking and experiencing the importance of getting out and about within the fashion world. “We’ve been to London fashion week,” said Harry, curling his fringe around with his thumb and index finger. ‘It’s different here though, having your own booth an being an attraction rather than just an audience.” Patrick nods his head in approval, he appears just as I would have imagined for a head of art and design. Floppy, startling grey hair, which he keeps pushing back away from his face and stylish and black clean cut glasses which frame his warm appearance. If you saw him in the street, you wouldn’t be mistaken with a guess that he involves his time with creative individuals. “Not only is this a way to get people interested in what we’re here for, but there’s a certain work ethic that comes with constant enthusiasm of standing and maintaining a stall over a number of days, so it’s fantastic work experience for the students,” said Patrick. At first he appeared rather quiet, but a thinker, someone who is very educated in his field, yet doesn’t take any nonsense. However, turning away from me, to watch Harry pose a little more, still with that green jacket on, he laughs to himself, “Oh, Harry, you’re not really doing that are you!” It is clear by the obviously casual relationship he shares with his students as to why they spoke so highly of him. Having studied Industrial Design at Central St. Martins, Patrick became a freelance designer working on set design, interior design and retail design before entering the fashion world. In 1978 he teamed up with his partner Jane to form the Fashion Knitwear Label 'Artwork.' Eventually, in 2007, Patrick set up

new undergraduate courses in Fashion Design and Performance Sportswear Design at the University of Falmouth, and consequently became head of Art and Design. A first for both Patrick and the students, Caryn Franklin, ambassador of the Clothes Show Live, rang Patrick to personally invite him and the University of Falmouth along for the experience, “I’ve known Caryn Franklin for years and as ambassador of the show this year, I thought it would be fantastic to come along, this is the first year that we’ve been here. I have great respect for Caryn and I think she’ll do a great job, it will be brilliant.” Said Patrick.

“With a place like Falmouth it’s so out the way, and when people come here it gives them the opportunity to see different universities that they may never have heard of.” Added Harry. Although Laura is the much quieter out of the two students, it is evident that she is passionate about her course and it is something she has always dreamed about doing. Both Harry and Laura have just finished producing a fashion film for a sportswear client in America, but won’t spill any news as to who it might be for! Both looking at each and grinning, “Can we?” Said Harry, at which Laura replied, “Noooo we can’t! We’ve got to keep it under wraps! It’s top secret!” After multiple rejected pleas, I finally gave up trying to scoop the gossip, but they did tell me that they are currently trying to bring over a brand from America, to improve the client’s women’s-wear campaigns, and to promote the new spring/summer collections. Evidently, two very talented individuals and both names to look out for in a couple of years time. Harry, in particular, is a character that you could not forget in a hurry, neither was that green jacket.

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You got

SPOTTED..

Nieve Raw, 15. Both skirt and jacket from River Island, t-shirt is from Urban Outfitters, shoes are from Office and jewellery is from New Look and River Island. 26 EXPOSED Winter 2012

Anna Darley, 16. Dress is from Topshop, jacket is from Urban Outfitters, boots are from Topshop, scarf is from New Look and hat is from Topshop.

Amy Naylor, 24. Black jumper is from Topshop, full skirt is vintage and boots are from River Island.


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W

e knew it wouldn’t be a difficult task, to find multiple well-dressed individuals, oozing with style, in such a fabulous fashion date like the Clothes Show Live. But, what we didn’t anticipate for was the problems we encountered… that being, there wasn’t enough time to pounce on you all! Here are a selection of those seriously stylish females that we did manage to grab hold of…

Rebecca Johnson, 21. Hat is from Topshop, white shirt is from Republic, leggings are from Misguided and Chelsea boots are also from Topshop.

Rhiannon Fear, 16. Jumper is from New Look, bag is from Asda and shoes are from Primark.

Veronica Mirnov, 17. Both top and skirt are from Topshop, t-shirt is from Zara and the scarf in vintage. Winter 2012 EXPOSED 27


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STOP YOUR STRESSING

I

t’s all very well people telling you how hard it is to break into this industry, with fingers pointing in all different directions as to how to do it and where to try your luck, but when you feel like you’re going to give up and pull your hair out- don’t. Here’s our top ten tips of what we think is important in how to prepare for the real world, whether that be preparation for interviews or to pouring cups of tea at your placements.

BE DIFFERENT Don’t be afraid to be different, obviously we’re not talking about crazy dancing and clowning behavior, but be confident and make sure you express what makes you the best. Show what desirable qualities you have that will set you aside from the rest.

REJECTION In this indistry, right from day one you’re going to have to get used to rejection and trust me it gets easier. Don’t let constant fall backs, such as ignored applications stop how motivated you are. Keep being persistent, push yourself and you will get there.

BE PERSONAL Once you have created a CV that shows you and your skills off to your best ability, get set on creating a cover letter that will get you noticed. Don’t waffle, get straight to the point of why you want the work experience/job, highlight why you would be a good candidate and briefly state why.

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RESEARCH Before writing any cover letter, applying for any job or even emailing to ask for a work experience placement, it is crucial that you do your research and find out as much information as you can about the company. You can then make brief references to the company through your application and this will benefit you if you do manage to secure an interview.

PREPARE Make sure before you attend any interview that you are prepared with any portfolio or work that will benefit your application and mentally prepare yourself with potential questions and answers that you may be asked.

NEW IDEAS Take as many new ideas as possible to interviews with you. Hopefully you will have researched the designer or company before hand so you know what type of style they work towards. Draft up some of your own work to show you are commited and motivated to excel.

HAVE A PLAN If you have managed to be successful with your application and sailed nicely through the interview, think carefully about agreeing to the time period that you will work there for (talking of work experience.) If you are only offered a week or two, which most places will, then the decision will be made for you, but although industry experience is vital, just remember that if you are still studying, be careful not to take too much on as this jeopardise your own grades.

JOB ROLES Before you start any placement, find out the type of job roles you will be taking on, so when you arrive you can be mentally prepared and you can be confident in yourself that you will make a good impression. Remember, first impressions count a lot!

KEEP IT PROFESSIONAL We all know how stressful and disapointing it can be to read the same words of rejection over and over again, so when the time comes and you do manage to get a work placement, it can be very easy to get taken for granted by the company you are working for. Don’t do anything that you aren’t comfortable with and if you do feel like you are being made to work excesivley more than paid employees, be polite and speak to a manager.

IMPRESS You might feel like you’ve done all the hard work and now you’ve started working you can afford to relax- wrong! Your time at a placement can mean make or break. Make the most of your time there and really set a good impression, you never know what your placement could lead to. Arrive early, stay late and become very good at making cuppa’s for the team- little things go a long way!

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A little eccentric, individual style and a pair They say a first impression is made within the first crucial five seconds of meeting someone, and those three previous notifications are probably not too bad for someone who lives and breathes art. Staffordshire University is home to many colourful and artistic individuals, but this year has proven most interesting for one specific character. After finishing two years at Mid Cheshire College in Cheshire, Dominic Brown came to Staffordshire University to try his hand at a Foundation Graphic Design course, 30 EXPOSED Winter 2012

which consequently led him towards studying a Fine Art degree. Dom’s speciality is street and graffiti art and it is increasingly clear why this is the path he chose, by the pure talent that his work exposes. Together with being increasingly passionate for his hobby, studies and the hard hitting reality of skint, student living, Dom began drawing and painting his own works of art, which he aimed to sell to make a bit of extra money.

“It was a good idea, but no one would buy my work, apart from family! Everyone was skint as well, so I ended up giving them away!” Said Dom. During the summer break after the first year of his degree and the unfortunate realisation that painting in his bedroom was not going to give him his big break, Dom discovered a man on a social networking site, who was currently making t-shirt designs for already established brands and artists. With nothing to lose Dom decided to try his luck and introduce his artwork and designs to a hopefully future acquaintance.


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Staffordshire University Undergradaute of Fine Art gives us an insight into his world of design...

Dom Brown

of paint splattered black jeans... Dom said: “He loved them all straight away, I couldn’t believe it, we made some plans and set about making the brand and planning the first creations.” This was the birth of EXPRESSIVE AGGRESSIVE CLOTHING & APPAREL.

being graffiti designed baseball tees. The future is looking bright.

By October 2012, Dom had his first batch of t-shirts and with no surprise at all, they had quickly sold out, as word of mouth made the popularity of his designs increase dramatically. EXAG had been established.

Dom’s most recent projects have been producing EXAG jumpers, beanie hats and more t-shirts, concentrating on new and improved embroided labels.

EXAG’s spring range is consequently being created, with its signature piece

Will Pugh, a Staffordshire University student, said: “I love the designs, EXAG is definitely one to watch for the future.”

“Some time in the near future, I’m hoping to create one-off design dresses, from the inspiration of my art

work. There’s definitely a place in the market for them, and it’s something I’m looking forward to.” In addition to EXAG, Dom still concentrates on his art, with his freelance art and design business ‘Mister Brown.’ EXAG creations can all be found at: http://expressiveaggressive.bigcartel.com We look forward to seeing what the future brings for Dominic Brown and EXPRESSIVE AGGRESIVE… Winter 2012 EXPOSED 31


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EX/AG CLOTHING BE EXPRESSIVE.


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Francesca Stewart Textiles Design and Design Management BSc

S

tarbuck’s wooden door bursts open on Gloucestshire Street, welcoming in the bustling crowd of the freezing London on-goers. Apologetically, Francesca Stewart flings herself through the crowded coffee filled tables, drops her bags and coat to the floor and breaths an icy sigh of relief. “So sorry I’m late, my boss is flying to Abu Dhabi at 6am and we needed to get the samples finished.” It’s 6pm on an December evening in the heart of the city. Francesca Stewart has just finished a day of her work experience placement for Suzie Turner, a woman’s couture house, working as a junior fashion designer. The work experience was a result of tedious, never ending letter writing and the compulsive chasing up of phone calls to all those helpful people who will “pass the message on and get back to you soon.” After hauling her many bags under the table and still managing to not have reached the end of unravelling her maroon, tasselled scarf, Francesca says, “Soon is a word you’ll hear a lot, I don’t want to know soon, I want to find out whether I’ve got the work or not,” on talking of the process of applying for work experience and internships before bagging the placement with Suzie Turner. It’s Francesca’s obvious passion for what she does that’s quite self

34 EXPOSED Winter 2012

explanatory as to how she has managed to be successful with the placement, alongside her incredible raw talent. “As a child I’ve always been obsessed with art! After studying art and design at A-level, I thought I would continue with the course at University, but when I started studying textiles for the first time I learnt new skills and found different inspiration, which made this course [Textiles Design and Design Management BSc] seem even more exciting! Francesca should be a third year student at the University of Manchester, where she is studying Textiles Design and Textiles Management BSc, but has put her final year of studies on hold to take a gap year to gain experience within the world of fashion and textiles. “I thought it was important, being an undergraduate, to get as much work experience as possible. It’s such a competitive industry that I’m going in to that I need to prove myself and so when I’ve graduated I have more than just a degree.” When back at home, Francesca lives in the small Cheshire town of Northwich, but I can’t help thinking she suits London. She’s the sort of passionate, throw-yourself-in, tell-ithow-it-is character that’s a signature creation of this city (although she is far sunnier and polite than your average southerner!)

She intends to live here when she’s made it into her dream job as a fashion designer, but for the meantime, is quite content with living in Northwich and commuting to Manchester. “I love Manchester. Meeting new people and embracing different cultures has been really inspiring. I’m not ready to move far from home yet!” This mind frame of no travelling may be short-lived though, as more dedicated researching has paid off. Come January, Francesca will embark on a year-long internship with Morrisons in Leicester, to work as the first buyer the company has ever employed. “When I found out I had got the internship placement I couldn’t believe it, I still can’t believe it, I was so excited!” She exclaimed. Her body language now portrays a calmer figure from the previous commotion of panic that burst through the coffee shop door and her huge grin as she talks is the give away that her excitement for the coming year isn’t just for show. From the stereotype of a fashion student, you’d expect volume, textures and flare, kitted out as though they’re heading to a red carpet shindig. Fran on the other hand is wearing short black biker boots, ripped skinny jeans and a perfectly fitted white shirt, one that fashion editors always tell you to invest in! She is wearing a pair of


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minimalistic pearl earrings, a bold amber statement ring on her right index finger and has a slick of dangerously red polish over her fingernails. Now that she has relaxed a little more, she takes a moment to think. She likes to answer questions properly, she has a habit of flicking her fringe to the side and at the same time running her brightly coloured fingers through her waist length mousey-brown hair. “I couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve searched the Internet for work experience and internships! I’ve had a lot of good advice from my University lecturers as to what sites to visit. ‘Fashion United’ is a really good website to find quick, responsive internships, but people shouldn’t dismiss easy options either. I found out about the Morrisons internship by looking in the work newsletter! I’ve worked

there [Morrisons] since I was 16!” Fran has realised that you don’t get anywhere without hard work and alongside hard work comes set backs and rejection. With so many talented fashion students in the country, there are few jobs available for the thousands of work hungry applicants. “Rejection has made me more determined to not stop and just continue to aim for my dream. Set backs like this can make you want to give up, but look at me! I’m proof you can get there in the end! “It’s easy to see other people’s success and think, ‘that couldn’t be me,’ but there’s no reason as to why any of us can’t achieve what we want by hard work and determination. To anyone hoping to be successful, I’d say, be easy going, hard working (she laughs as if in despair) and just get as work experience as possible. Even if it’s just a couple of weeks and isn’t paid,

at the end of the day a future employer will recognise your efforts. Sometimes work experience counts more than the degree itself.” So, along with being evidently very talented, what is it that gives Miss Stewart the very best inspiration? She takes a moment to think (whilst flicking her fringe to the side once again) and says, “To be honest, the environment and nature! Sometimes everyday objects also, as the matter changes all the time; the colour, the texture and so does the inspiration.” Although inspiration at times seems the most important thing to grab hold of, before the process of ideas can come streaming, sitting in front of Francesca Stewart, a very talented young designer from a small town in Cheshire, it is very obvious that the first, key characteristics needed are passion, motivation and a lot of hard work.

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Amy Towne


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