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Blast from the Past Issue No.309 If I could travel to the past and make one change, it would be..... editor-in-chief anthony miller editor maria giselle canahuati fashion director elizabeth paladeau art director jillian ricciardi beauty director sabrina carmona fashion features editor jackie tirbaso
Anthony Miller is a fashion professor at the Savannah College of Art and Design with prestigious industry experience. He provides professional and aestheti guidance to his driven students.
Maria Canahuati Elizabeth Paladeau is an aspiring creis a Honduran ative director who student studying Fashion Marketing is studying Fashion Maketing and and Management the Savannah Management at the College of Art and Savannah College Design. She aspires of Art and Design. to become a buyer Having Holland as for a mainstream her home for many years she has deretailer. veloped a cultured sense of style.
Jillian Ricciardi is a New York based fashion stylist with previous experience at IMG Models. She is a Junior at the Savannah College of Art and Design, majoring in Fashion Martketing and Management.
Ana Sabrina Carmona is a Fashion Marketing and Management Student at SCAD. She desires to combine her creative eye for art fashion and branding in order to enter the world of fashion PR and marketing.
photographers dylan shaw morrigan richardson kelsey heinze photographers assistant rosario edwards models jessica martin caroline mcelhinny brian mitchell rachael majors taylor ullman kate brown jessica imhoff baille younkman contributors jacqueline friscia mike patterson
Jackie Tirbaso is a fashion marketing student who transfered to SCAD from Kent State University. Upon graduation she plans on moving to Colorado and working as- a Visual Merchandiser.
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Insi-De Blast From the Past Issue learn from your past to improve your future
36 MUSICIAN PROFILES 41 1990’S GRAFFITI ZEV’S SINCE THE 90’S
43 FURNITURE 48 THE NEW GENERATION ANNIE LEIBOVITZ
52 MODEL PROFILES 150 KABOOM HONG KONG
156 THESE FOUR GUYS
INTERVIEW WITH BRIAN MITCHELL
FASHION/ FEATURES 28 iKARL
KARL LAGARFELD REDEFINES ONLINE SHOPPING WITH HIS KARL COLLECTION FOR NET-A-PORTER
58 DESIGNER PROFILES 66 SKULL & GLOSSBONES
AS THE LATEST COUTURE SEASON DRAWS TO A CLOSE, THOSE IN THE INDUSTRY CAN’T HELP BUT NOTICE A CHANGE
72 100 YEARS OF VIONNET
THE HOUSE OF VIONNET COMES BACK TO LIFE
74 RODARTE “STATES OF MATTER”
76 WHEN I WAS TEN, ALL I WANTED WAS TO LOOK LIKE TWIGGY PHOTOGRAPHY DYLAN SHAW STYLING ELIZABETH PALADEAU, JILLIAN RICCARDI, MARIA GISELLE CANAHUATI, JACKIE TIRBASO, SABRINA CARMONA
98 SUNNY & SHEER
PHOTOGRAPHY KELSEY HEINZE STYLING ELIZABETH PALADEAU, JILLIAN RICCARDI MARIA GISELLE CANAHUATI, JACKIE TIRBASO, SABRINA CARMONA
116 LEVI’S TODAY 122 TALK TO THE HAND
PHOTOGRAPHY KELSEY HEINZE STYLING ELIZABETH PALADEAU, JILLIAN RICCARDI MARIA GISELLE CANAHUATI, JACKIE TIRBASO, SABRINA CARMONA
News
Text Maria Giselle Canahuati
Gucci collaborates with Bianchi to develop the Bianchi by Gucci bicycles which combines two unique Italian traditions, design and craftsmanship. Gucci Creative Director Frida Giannini designed this bike to make it an ideal, elegant form of transportation in the city. Accessories for the bicycle such as helmet, gloves and water bottles were designed in order to complete this sophisticated look.
MIU MIU launches a one-off handbag collection in major fashion capitals around the world with 46 completely unique hand-made styles. These limited edition handbags will differ according to each city. Displaying 17 different material combinations, forming a kaleidoscope of Miu Miu’s stylistic expression. Each bag’s uniqueness will be certified by a specific ID card and a mini book showing the 46 variations. miumiu.com
Mary Katrantzou for the first time develops a wider range collection featuring dresses, trousers, T-shirts, blouses and skirts for renowned London based store, Topshop. “My idea behind the collaboration was to design for the Topshop girl a range that is as close to the aesthetic of my main line as possible, with great control over the quality of design and production.” This collection is focused on Katrantzou’s vivid vibrant prints which cover every garment.
gucci.com
Following last year’s iconic bracelets, Trésor developed 12 new collections with over 300 new pieces to choose from. This year Trésor Paris will be bringing its stunning crystal and magnetite jewellery, in bold bright colors to France, Holland and Spain. Many of these pieces involving movement and excitement like the mixed-link drop earrings can mix with extravagant fashions to complete your bold look. Christian Louboutin creates a capsule collection for Bergdorf Goodman in order to celebrate his 20th annitresorparis.com versary. A special contest took place among 20 Parsons alumni out of which 5 won and developed looks inspired by the shoes, which were then displayed at Bergdorf Goodman.
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iKarl Text Elizabeth Paladeau
On January 25th Karl Lagerfeld released KARL, a new graphic, affordable, collection exclusively for Net-a-Porter. In order to appeal to a more modern and up-to-date consumer Lagerfeld turned to the Internet and the app world to make sure the release of his collection was cutting edge.
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Lagerfeld chose to open five “Window Shops” in Paris, London, New York, Berlin, and Sydney. These storefronts were decorated with images that when scanned with an iPhone or iPad containing the special app, would allow customers to preview the collection. A pop-up store also opened on Bleeker Street in the west village. Visitors could view the products in a minimalist environment and then purchase them from the Net-a-Porter website via iPad kiosks. Sunglasses, fragrances and fashion and design books can be purchased on site but the overall purpose is to draw the audience’s attention towards the Internet. This online-only method is a technique that is used to refresh the Lagerfeld brand and makes it appealing to a younger audience. High-end retailers are experiencing the strongest rate of online retail growth. This is because affluent customers have been the least affected
by the recession. High-end retailers have previously had the least online presence so they are now in a game of catch up. “This is a great way to make their brands appear more accessible without risking damage to the perceived exclusivity of their other offline collections,” says Isabel Cavill, fashion analyst at Planet Retail. The collection ranges in price from £20 to £980. It will be sold exclusively on Neta-Porter before it is released to Lagerfeld’s websites. Lagerfeld stated that he wanted a change of market from what he normally does. “The people I’ve been in business with before, they always want to be in competition with Chanel or Fendi - I wasn’t interested,” he explains. This is even a different market than his past work with H&M, which he also saw as a challenge because of its range of clientele. “The middle class does not have enough class that I think the middle class should have.”
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“This is me doing me, whatever that means.” Karl Lagerfeld
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Lagerfeld also considers this collection to be more of a personal interpretation of his style. “Chanel is me doing Chanel, Fendi is me doing Italy and this is me doing me, whatever that means,” says the designer. The collection uses only black, white, silver, and grey, and is very graphic. For example a new logo was developed for the brand: an angular outline of the designer’s profile. The collection becomes available January 25th on Net-a-Porter and Karl Lagerfeld will be making an appearance at the Paris unveiling.
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Zevs
since 1990 Christophe Schwartz, also known as Zevs, is a French street artist who began in the 1990’s. The origin of his pen name is due to an accident in which the artist was almost killed by a suburban train named zeus73. Under his pen name he has had various solo and group gallery showings exposing his various techniques. His most known works are the liquidating logo technique, which is his statement against corporate images and big brand names such as Coca Cola, McDonalds, Louis Vuitton and Channel. Zevs uses these big brand logos in order to reflect the idea of branding through his art. Other forms of street art Zevs employs are the Urban shadows on the streets (bottom right image), in which he outlines the shadows of objects or people during the night, making these shadows more visible and being able to see the trace of the shadows during the day.
Visual Attacks (bottom left image): The purpose of these attacks it to kill corporate images through the use of a red spot dripping through the face of the models used in ads. Visual kidnapping (bottom right image): Zevs describes this form of art as entering an interactive game. If the brand on the billboard kidnaps the attention of the public with the purpose of consumer demand, he reverses the situation and kidnaps the model on the poster and demands a ransom of 500,000 from the brand. This sum representing the symbolic price of an advertising campaign for the brand.
image) in which this technique looks as if lighting is attaking the building. Zevs used his outfit of a yellow jumpsuit and a mask in order to freely work on his art during the day or at night. He choose the bright yellow color of the jumpsuit in order to create a paradox of using a flashy color but still being undercover by using a mask to cover his face. The use of this outfit whenever he works, is part of his art, like a performance.
Invisible graffiti: For this technique Zevs created a special type of paint that is invisible during the day, it starts to be visible by night when the electric lights switches on. He adapts or changes the color of the electric light, that creates the reaction that makes it visible by night. Zevs painted the façade of a classical museum, the Glyptotek in Denmark (Top left
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CHARLOTTE FREE
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Text Jillian Ricciardi
FERREIRA SKY Text Elizabeth Paladeau
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JASMINE TOOKES
Born 1991 in Huntington Beach, California, Jasmine Tookes was discovered while shopping at a showroom with her celebrity stylist mother in 2005. Later that year, at the young age of 14, Bruce Weber photographed her for Abercrombie & Fitch. In 2009 she signed with IMG Models and becomes the face of Gap Jeans a year later. Tookes appeared in an Italian Vogue editorial, photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth in 2011 and appeared on the fall cover of French Revue de Modes later that same year. She says that if she had to choose between print or runway work she would lean towards print work; that she is inspired by the photographers that she works with. In fact, if she weren’t a model she would love to be a photographer and just invested in a camera of her own. Text Elizabeth Paladeau
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XIAOWEN
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Text Jillian Riccardi
Pedro Lourenรงo Text Elizabeth Paladeau
Pedro Lourenรงo has been a designer for 9 years. This may seem average at first but the Brazilian native is only 21 years old.
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Son of Gloria Coelho and Reinaldo Lourenço, two of Brazil’s most well-known designers, Lourenço started designing when he was merely 12 years old and debuted his first collection at São Paulo Fashion Week. “Everything was inspired by the shape and the construction of tennis shoes. My clothes looked like toys, my women like superheroes — very ’80s and very colorful,” describes the designer. Supermodels Raquel Zimmermann, Caroline Trentini, and Isabeli Fontana walked in his premier collection in their native Brazil. Since then he has developed a more refined, graphic and threedimensional aesthetic. He often looks to the architect Oscar Niemeyer and the “urban jungle” where he grew up for inspiration. He claims that it is easy to see the harmony between the city and nature in Brazil. “Not only in São Paulo but people in Brazil in general are in touch with nature just as they are in touch with cement and helicopters and poverty,” he explains.” “There is no clash too big to not exist in harmony.” Lourenço has come a long way from his childhood days of tennis shoe inspiration. He is still based in São Paulo but now has operations in out of Paris and shows at Paris fashion week and his Resort collection is proving to have a very high sell through rate at Barney’s. For his Pre-Fall Collection he turned to Patagonia for inspiration. He infused photorealistic images of mountains and glaciers on the front of shells and dresses in shades inspired by the arctic. Formerly criticized for the wearability/price ratio he used mohair year treated to look like fur instead of real pelts. This will certainly improve his retail rate.
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Madeleine Vionnet 100 years of Fashion Text Maria Giselle Canahuati Considered “the Queen of the Bias Cut” Madeleine
Having as her main inspiration Greek and Roman silhouettes that fall naturally on the body and flow with every movement created by the body Vionnet was against the corset. She believed that clothes should be shaped around the body and not the other waty around. In her first collection under the Doucet fashion house she created deshabilles that could be worn in public, which made a lot of noise, almost a scandal.
“Vionnet was not a specialist in any one of these activities; (pattern maker, grader, cutter, machine operator, finisher and presser) she was a master of all.” Betty Kirke
Her fashion instinct was ahead of her time so her ideas were not widely accepted by other designers. This is what pushed her to create her own fashion house 100 years ago (1912) where she would nurture and establish her own concepts and identity. Her designs were known not only for her technique and ability to handel the fabric but also for her unique tendency to understand the female body and enhance her femeninity by uniting balance and harmony into her creations. Even though she retired in 1939 and closed her fashion house befor World War I began the silhouettes and techniques she created, such as the bias cut have made a great impression in designers and are still being used to this day. Vionnet fashion house did not open again until 2007 and Vionnets’ concepts and identity are being kept through out the creations of the garments for this house.
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“When a woman smiles,then her dress should smile too.” Madeleine Vionnet
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Madame Vionnet developed and perfected her skills under the guidence of Kate Reilley in London, and when she moved back to Paris she trained under the Callot sisters and Doucet. By the time she was working for the house of Doucet in 1907 she was already experimenting with the Bias Cut which would be of great inspiration and success after World War I.
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Vionnet made history with her creations.
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Years of Vionnet “Vionnet clothes appealed to the extremely sophisticated. The fabrics - silk tulle, crêpe de chine were luxurious and the proportion and technique, perfectionist,...The designs have a real presence - these were pieces that were not about prettiness but about beauty.”
Pamela Golbin
(the curator of the show and of the museum’s fashion collection.)
“Taste is a feeling that permits us to [see] the difference between that which is pretty, or spectacular, or even ugly. Thios is passed down from mother to daughter. Certain people [have no] need to be educated. They have an innate sense of fashion. I think this is my case. At home, there was practically nothing, no one taught me anything. Yet I made something new that was tasteful. ”
Madeleine Vionnet
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RODARTE “STATES OF MATTER” TEXT JACKIE TIRBASO
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When I was ten, all I wanted was to look like Twiggy
Photography Dylan Shaw Styling Elizabeth Paladeau & Jillian Ricciardi Hair Sabrina Carmona Make-up Sabrina Carmona Styling assistance Maria Giselle Canahuati & Jackie Tirbaso Digital Dylan Shaw Model Jessica Martin
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Top Karl Lagerfeld. Pants Calvin Klein. Shoes Valentino. Earrings Vintage.
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Coat Burberry. Tights Wolford Shoes Prada. Hat Louis Vuitton.
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Dress Herve Leger. Tights Marc Jacobs. Boots Prada.
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Hat Sonia Rykiel. Top Celine Jacket Dolce & Gabbana. Skirt Proenza Schouler.
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Hat Burberry. Top vintage. Shorts American Apparel. Tights Wolford. Shoes Valentino.
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Dress Lanvin.
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Dress Calvin Klein. Boots Prada. Tights Wolford.
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Hat Eugina Kim. Coat Ralph Lauren.
Editorials
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Hat Sonia Rykiel.
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Mink Vintage. Playsuit Balmain. Shoes Lanvin.
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Hat Eugina Kim. Jacket Ralp Lauren.
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Editorials
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Dress Marc Jacobs. Tights Wolford. Boots Chanel.
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when I was 10 years old, my grandparents took me to Great Britain and I used up 10 disposable cameras during the 2 weeks I was there. That’s the first time I consciously remember incorporating a camera into my lifestyle. How would you define your style, both photography and personal? My photographic style changes a lot, depending on where I am in my life. But my personal style is a of button dress clothes and outdoor wear. I wear a lot of oxfords and trousers mixed with boots, cargo jackets, and canvas. Other than photography what is important in your life? I’m an avid believer that photographic inspiration should be drawn through personal experiences. I concept best in nature, so bike riding, canoeing, and snowboarding are all things that are important to my creative process. What do you hope to do with photography in the future? Down the road, I would like to be an Art Director for an Ad Agency, and be able to do my own personal work on the side.
Michigan native Dylan Shaw is an up-and-coming photographer, who shoots both fashion and fine arts pieces. Although still a student at Savannah College of Art and Design, he has been featured in magazines and galleries and is working towards a career in advertising. After having the privilege of working with this talented artist, we sat down with him to get to know what makes him tick. When did you start photography? I bought my first camera when I was 15 and have snapping away ever since. What is your favorite thing to shoot? People, most definitely. I’m really interested in the way you can change a person’s perception through a photograph. Who/what is your biggest inspiration? I draw a lot of inspiration from my past, my home, and my subconscious. Some of my favorite photographers are Ralph Eugene Meatyard, Autumn De Wilde, and William Eggleston. What was the first photograph you ever took? I don’t specifically remember my very first photograph. But 96
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What is your goal upon graduation? I’d like to relocate out east either to Seattle or Portland. Somewhere with cold weather and snow. Who would you most like to collaborate with? I’d like to work with people in the Film industry, just to try it out. I’m fascinated with the way that Photo and Video are starting to merge. Other than photography, what is your favorite form of self-expression? Social Media. Definitely. Twitter, Facebook, linkedIN...they all help shape your personal image. What is your greatest life lesson so far? Don’t have tunnel vision. Refining yourself is boring. Be involved with everything you can. What is your favourite decade? I like the fashions in the 1920’s, but I like the mustaches in the 1970’s. Interview Elizabeth Paladeau
“Refining yourself is boring.” Dylan Shaw
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Sunny &
Sheer
Taking a page from our favorite couples of the 70’s; Yoko and John, Sonny and Cher, and now Brian and Caroline, embody the ease of the decade. Photography Kelsey Heinze Styling Elizabeth Paladeau & Jillian Ricciardi Models Caroline and Brian Hair Sabrina Carmona Make-up Sabrina Carmona Photography assistant Rosario Edwards Styling assistance Maria Giselle Canahuati & Jackie Tirbaso Digital Kelsey Heinze
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On Her. Romper Yves Saint Laurent. Belt & Scarf Hermes. Sunglasses Tom Ford On Him. Shirt Brooks Brothers. Pants Levi’s. Sunglasses Vintage Perisol
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Romper Acne. Scarf (used as headband) Hermes. Bra American Apparel. Skates Vintage.
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Corset Stella McCartney. Cardigan Isabel Marant.
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On her. Top Vintage. Pants Citizens of Humanity. Necklace All Saints. On him. Tank RVCA. Pants Levi’s.
Top Acne. Shorts Rag & Bone. Shoes Vintage.
flannel and pants
On her. Hat Missoni. Dress Yves Saint Laurent. On him. Shirt Vintage. Pants Levi’s.
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Glasses Vintage Perisol. Top Pringle of Scotland. Shorts Jeremy Scott. Shoes Jeffery Campbell.
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Headband Mink. Shorts Blk Dnm.
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Dress Stark.
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tALK TO THE hAND Because these girls don’t want to listen.A re-emergence of an I don’t care attitude and eclectic pattern matching with layering and unique silhouettes leads to a candy flipping look.The 90s are far enough away now to start bringing the Photography Morrigan Richardson feeling back. Styling Elizabeth Paladeau & Jillian Ricciardi
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Models Baillie Jessica Taylor Kate Rachael Hair Sabrina Carmona Make-up Sabrina Carmona Styling assistance Maria Giselle Canahuati & Jackie Tirbaso Digital Morrigan Richardson
Top, pants and shoes
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On Ballie ,Dress Rodarte. Flannel DSquared. Belt Alexander McQueen. Shoes Nike. On Jessica Top Vintage. Skirt Ann Demeulemeester
On Ballie Shirt Harijuku Lovers. Scarf Missoni. Pants Jeremy Scott. Shoes Baby Phat. On Jessica Top Vintage. Pants Jeremy Scott. Scarf Versace.
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On Kate Top Balenciaga. Flannel model’s own. Pants Marc Jacobs. Shoes DSquared. On Rachael Top American Apparel. Skirt Betsey Johnson.and shoes
On Kate Top Calvin Klein. Shorts Cheap Monday. Socks Vintage. Shoes Carlos Santana. On Taylor Top Y-3. Socks Happy Socks. Shoes Jimmy Choo. On Rachael Top Nike. Bodysuit American Apparel. Shorts Noah Michael. Socks model’s own. Shoes Dr. Martens.
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On all Tops Vintage. Pants UFO. On Taylor Belt (worn as bracelet) Balmain. On Rachael Necklace and Bracelts vintage.
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On Rachael Top Isabel Marant. Pants Opening Ceremony. Shoes Jeffery Campbell. On Taylor Top Vintage Adidas. Shorts Jeremy Scott. Shoes Missoni.
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On Kate Top Calvin Klein. Shorts Cheap Monday. Socks Vintage. Shoes Carlos Santana. On Rachael Top Nike. Bodysuit American Apparel. Shorts Noah Michael. Socks model’s own. Shoes Dr. Martens.
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Top Vintage. Pants UFO. Shoes Baby Phat.
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Top Vivienne Westwood. Flannel Vintage. Skirt Betsey Johnson. Socks Vintage. Shoes Dr. Marten.
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Top Vintage Versace. Shirt Adidas. Pants Opening Ceremony. Shoes Missoni. Earrings model’s own.
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Top Philip Lim. Shorts Noah Michael. Necklace DVF. Shoes Betsey Johnson.
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Hat Mischka. Top Mad Decent. Jacket Vintage.
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Sweater DVF. Top Just Cavalli. Socks Vintage. Shoes Jeffery Campbell.
shoes
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On Taylor.Top Vintage Nina Ricci. Shorts Noah Michael. Shoes Christian Louboutin. On Kate Mask BAPE. Top Vintage.
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Coat Nike.
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Mask BAPE. Top Vintage.
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Brian
mitchell Text Jillian Ricciardi
20 year old Brian Mitchell has quite a beautiful life. Born and raised in Virginia Beach, the free spirited skater first appeared in Vice Magazine for Palladium boots and has recently been featured in RVCA’s “These 4 Guys” art show at Side Street Cantina. Cut from the laid back Virginia Beach skate and surf lifestyle, Brian’s just trying to make a living doing what he loves, while looking good. 1. I know you all are friends, but how'd you all begin to collaborate on artwork? It mostly results from being around each other. Whether it is skateboarding, surfing, or just hanging out, we are constantly feeding off 156
each other, bouncing back and forth ideas to one another. 2. What's your favorite medium for creating your work? I usually use pen and ink, and sometimes work into them with watercolor. Keep it pretty graphic... haha 3. Where does inspiration come from? As cliche as it sounds, everything! I am always observing whether it is walking around town, biking, skateboarding, I am always taking in information. I am very interested in the details, the smaller things that most people pass by on a daily basis.
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4. Your 2 most recent shows featured sketches out of your books and a full size wall mural.. how do you prefer to show your work? With the success of these past two shows, I would love to take aspects from both of them and create a one large show. That way people are able to see the full mind of the artist and see the creative process as a whole. Because most people do not get to see these early stages in the sketchbook. 5. Do you plan on collaborating always with each other? With other creatives in different disciplines? Of course! These guys will always
be in contact whether we are living in the same city or not. We will always be in touch and remain to inspire one another. As for different disciplines, absolutely! In this day and age, we must never limit ourselves to the single materials that we are familiar with. To succeed, we should expand our creative spectrum to other mediums, such as working with photographers, fashion designers, product designers, etc. This is the time where we need to come together as creators and utilize one anothers skills and capabilities. 6. Should we plan on seeing merchandise with your artwork on it... t-shirts, record albums, or will it always be hung on the walls? For sure! Like I said, never limit yourself. Hopefully in the near future, you will be seeing my work on these items.
7. Do your characters have stories, are they based on certain people, are they a satire on life?
Nothing very specific. I mean everyone has there own opinion and perspective on things, so I feel like I'd say they are a little mixture of all everyone will have there own take three. They are a blend of emotions, on my work. memories, and characteristics from 11. Could you ever imagine a life my conscious and subconscious. without a pencil and paper to get 8. Would you be scared if you ever your ideas out on? encountered an illustration that Not at all. I write on everything, came alive? paper, random pieces of wood, magazine..anything really! Drawing Hahaha...lets be real here! is like my way of keeping a diary. It allows me to let out emotions and 9. Do you prefer working in a studio environment or in the comforts opinions and give myself a sense of therapy. of your home? For the most part I prefer to work in my studio at home. It allows me to be secluded and focus on the work. 10. What kind of feeling do you want the audience to take away from your images?
12. Could you name a few emerging artists you've got an eye on or inspire you? Michael Sieben, Barry McGee, Mike Giant, Dave Kinsey....I could go on forever.
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