VANESSA WEARS ALL CLOTHING CHANEL RESORT 15. MAKE-UP THROUGHOUT CHANEL LES 4 OMBRES, ROUGE ALLURE LIP COLOUR AND PERFECTION LUMIERE VELVET.
Partner. Production manager Graham McLoughlin. Retouching Output. Model Vanessa Axente at VIVA London. Special thanks to Spring Studios.
James Robjant, Matthew Healy. Styling assistance Max Ortega Govela. Hair assistance David Harborow. Make-up assistance Siobhan Furlong. Executive producer Lucy Johnson at Art
Hair Anthony Turner at Art Partner. Nail technician Trish Lomax at Jed Root using Les Rouges Culte de Chanel and Body Excellence Hand Cream. Photography assistance Lex Kembery,
PHOTOGRAPHY ALASDAIR MCLELLAN STYLING JONATHAN KAYE MAKE-UP LUCIA PICA
who said nights were for sleep?
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TEXT ANDERS CHRISTIAN MADSEN
your face is your ticket Lucia Pica is the Italian make-up artist daring to take our faces into a dynamic new era.
In these body-centric modern times, it’s worth reminding ourselves
anyone who desires it. After a course at Greasepaint Make-up Academy,
what was always the focal point of great, influential beauty: the face.
Lucia began assisting to gain experience. “I approached all the biggest
It’s how we communicate ourselves and our first chance to make an
agencies until my persistence paid off, and I was offered the opportunity
impression. Make-up artist Lucia Pica is part of the relatively small group
to work on the teams of make-up artists, such as Charlotte Tilbury.” She
of people responsible for the changing faces of our time, whose ever-
assisted Tilbury for a few seasons before eventually becoming her first
evolving face art – because that’s literally what it is – sets the agenda for
assistant for three years, and finally going solo. Now, as part of Chanel’s
the way in which we shape and mould our faces to look modern, make
gang of UK make-up artists, a brand which she says transcends time
certain impressions, and portray our personalities “I like to think that
and generations. “I think that because Coco Chanel herself was such
when I work there is a certain harmony in my use of colours and textures
a strong, aspirational woman, she really paved the way for a kind of
that can be translated into a woman’s everyday life, that something I
beauty that lets the real woman shine through.” It’s a philosophy that
do might inspire someone to try something new and experiment with
characterises Lucia’s body of work and her views on the role make-up
products in a different way to announce their beauty,” Lucia says, on
should play in this day and age. “It’s a powerful tool and a wonderful way
the eve of her shoot for i-D. “Fashion magazines especially offer a
of enhancing one’s beauty, giving oneself a confidence boost, but I don’t
constant source of inspiration, and I like the idea of a woman seeing
think it should ever become a crutch or a mask to hide behind,” Lucia
a look that I have created and it giving her the confidence to try it out
says. “Whether the look is natural or more pushed, I like to retain the
herself. I think it’s the best way to discover new things, like trying out a
modernity and character of the woman in my work, because as a woman
bolder lip colour. It can make you feel empowered.” The power of the
I want to be able to relate to the woman I portray. Growing up I always
face is illustrated to perfection in Lucia’s most memorable work, which
liked the looks of Isabella Rossellini, Nastassja Kinski in Paris, Texas, and
includes images such as Jourdan Dunn’s i-D cover, also photographed
Patty Pravo. It’s the idea of being kind of imperfect but still glamorous
by Alasdair McLellan, from Winter 2011. You know the one: Jourdan
and cool.” Though it may sound counterintuitive for a make-up artist,
stripped back in a black roll neck, shot on a pink backdrop with a
an appreciation of natural beauty is at the root of Lucia’s work, and it’s
matching pink eye shadow, a dramatically lined eye, matte red lips and
something that goes beyond the realm of beauty. She lists her mother
yellow nail varnish. Pica was behind Eliza Cummings’ i-D beauty story
as one of her greatest teachers, emphasising her love of simplicity. “She
from Spring 2013: a series of graphic eyes on a blood red backdrop.
has a great way of seeing things in a simple, uncomplicated way. She’s
“They all really portray my woman,” Lucia says. “Where strong meets
very much a grounding force when I get all dreamy and romantic about
sophisticated with a feminine feel.”
literally everything,” she says, laughing. “That philosophy carries through
Lucia was born in Naples in 1976, and had her first experience of make-
to her make-up routine as well.” But in a fashion and entertainment
up at an early age, watching her mother’s daily beauty regimen. “She
world that always seems to be calling for more, Lucia says less really is
always had a ritual of applying lipstick and dabbing a little on her cheeks.
more. “Sometimes women can get the wrong vision of themselves and
That’s a little habit that’s rubbed off on me now, too,” she says. Like
cover more than they need to. I often think you can significantly reduce
most teenagers, Lucia founded her relationship with make-up through
the amount of those products you use and still have a flawless effect,”
trial and error. “I used to wear more make-up than ever when I was 16.
Lucia notes. “But I do think the market seems to be going that way, too,
I’d wear a [different] look to school every day, from emo to 90s to full-on
in terms of bases and formulas. You can find lighter textured foundations
Versace glam. When I was younger I really went for that thin, 90s brow
and concealers as well as products that promote wellbeing in the skin,
look. I used to pluck my brows until there was almost nothing left,” she
such as mineral bases and powders.” They’re weighty words, coming
recalls. “That’s the danger of following trends, I guess! Luckily, I made
from someone whose job it is to dress up and decorate our faces.
it back.”
But as Lucia would no doubt agree, sometimes the ultimate personal
Fifteen years ago Lucia moved to London to pursue make-up art, a
expression lies in your own true self.
dream she says takes painstaking focus, willingness, and hard work from
@picalucia
“Make-up is a powerful tool and a wonderful way of enhancing your beauty. While it can give you a confidence boost, it should never become a crutch or a mask to hide behind.” LUCIA PICA 130 i-D MAGAZINE
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