STELLA McCARTNEY & ETHNIC ART
Andrea De Benito Ferrer Ba Fashion Marketing & Communication, Level 5, 2015- 2016 Computer Tools 2, MIED 506 Representation Techniques 2, CWK 2 Nicolas Godon
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CONTENTS 1 10 17 21 24 34 42 45 BRAND
- COORPORATE PROFILE // - MARKET POSITION & CURRENT SITUATION // -COMMUNICATION BACKROUND //-THE MESSAGE//-TARGET MRK
COLLECTION -OBJECTIVE //-INSPIRATION // -DO´´S & DONT
EDITORIAL
-BRIEF // -STYLING MODEL CASTING // -MAKE UP & HAIR PRESENTATION
SHOOT & POST SHOOT
-TIME SCHEDULE & ART &MODEL DIRECTION // -RETOUCHING // -PAGE LAYOUT
EDITORIAL
LOOKBOOK WEBSITE
REFERENCES
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CORPORATE PROFILE Stella McCartney, daughter for world-famous singer Paul McCartney Linda Eastman, and was born in 1971. Her passion for fashion was apparent at a young age, the 15-year old Stella interned with Christian Lacroix. At the age of 24 she graduated from the highly recognized Central Saint Martins School of Design. For the university’s collections, which already showcasing looks that the brand still has nowadays: sexy femininity and natural confidence. Two years later, having already launched two collections, she was hired by Chloe in Paris to be the Creative Director of the brand, a job she happily took on for 3 years together with Phoebe Philo. She reinvented the brand with a more romantic vision of streetwise, introducing vintage lingerie, tailoring and low riding trousers. In 2001, McCartney decided she wanted to get back in motion on the designing process but as herself as chief designer and began the launching of her own label brand: Stella McCartney. The launching was done as part of a partnership venture with Kering2 (French multinational that develops luxury, sport and lifestyle brands such as Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent...), and the designer previewed the first collection in Paris, October that very same year. 5
Stella McCartney is a Luxurious fashion brand, focused on apparel, shoes and accessories. Is positioned in the Luxury Market, along with the biggest Haut Couture Houses. Stella McCartney as a brand nowadays offers women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, lingerie, eyewear, fragrances and kids’ wear. However, the brand isn’t only based on it’s designs, fabrics and stitches. Stella McCartney represents much more, because it is a brand (and a designer) that has been very strongly linked to certain values and beliefs.
MARKET POSTION
The brand has strong competitors as Isabel Marant and Alexander McQueen. Alexander McQueen is a forceful competitor because it almost has same experience with Stella McCartney such as brand position, brand development.
CURRENT SITUATION As referenced earlier, Stella McCartney focus on the creation of couture and ready-to-wear pieces. Stella McCartney is considered one of the first luxury fashion designers to implement vegan fashion. This doesn’t only mean that she doesn’t use any leather, skins or furs, but that she actively takes part in this movement and tries to regularly commit to sustainability in an evident way in all of her collections. This environmental consciousness is part of the brand’s ethos in order to make the company a responsible, social, honest and modern one with a genuine care for the planet. 6
The designer’s collections are now present in over 70 countries in which she distributes both through specialty shops and department stores. The brand is also shipped online to 100 different countries. The amount of own-based stores the brand has is also quite big. Stella McCartney has 33 freestanding shops in major cities, such as New York, LA, Paris, London, Barcelona, Milan, Tokyo, Beijing... However, McCartney has always been very aware of what her clients wants, and understands that not everything can be 100% organic, because people still want to wear beautiful clothes with vibrant colours that fit perfectly. She insists on the fact that her job is to create “beautiful luxurious things...3” and loves it when “...people come into the store and don’t even know that something is organic or in faux leather. The main style of Stella McCartney is focus on sharp tailoring, natural confidence and sexy femininity. (Stella McCartney, 2015) The incorporation of the Ethnic African Tribal Style into the new collection will bring a new vision for the brand designs.
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COMMUNICATION BACKROUND The brand’s communication is absolutely spot on, which is something indispensable for such a sustainably conscious company. When it comes to brands which are so passionate about supporting their values and beliefs (which is definitely Stella McCartney’s case) it is absolutely primordial for the company to have a good communication strategy in order to explain the reasons behind those values as well as how they are being taken into consideration and what plans of action the company is taking in order to make them a priority. Analyzing in depth the communication of the brand was possible to conclude the following:
OFFLINE
FASHION SHOWS Stella McCartney runway shows are presented in the most unique way. Most of the collection usually talk for itself but a elaborated visual fashion show complements per- fectly the pieces. Her latest Pre-Fall collection show a group of animal-pattern coats in McCartney’s “fur-free fur”.
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EXHIBITIONS The brand collections are so peculiar and brilliant that the proof of that is the amount of times it has already been featured in diferent exhibitions. They show the artistic potential the brand has. The image above shows a pice from an exhibition in the Design Musium of London.
COLLABORATIONS The brand did several collaborations. A very well know one, was with Addidas. The collection was infused with bright colors, flattering silhouettes and a lot of movement. The best of this collection in particular is how they managed to capture the vibe sports to everyday landscape. Also she had designed sportswear for the Olympic Games.
ONLINE The brand has a good communication. The website does wonders for the brand, as it is excellently well structured and offers all the information needed for customers to understand exactly what the brand is about. There are different sections that cover the wide range of products Stella McCartney offers, and of course there is a whole part that is dedicated to the Sustainability awareness that the brand has. In that particular section, the brand lists their most eco-friendly products, environmental tips and the Meat Free Monday movement. The website also has fun additions to it such as the “Who’s wearing Stella” section, which features different celebrities such as Lupita Nyong, Rihanna or Meryl Streep wearing Stella McCartney’s latest designs. Also, the style in which the posts and information is written fits accordingly to the general vibe of the brand, therefore the explanations are simple, straight- forward and concise yet not tedious, without loosing that
THE ¨MESSAGE¨ Stella McCartney ‘s goal is to dress a woman elgante and stylish without harming the environment in the process. ¨There´s No excuse for FUR in this day and age¨ this quote is very typiclal from her. Stella McCartney’s commitment to sustainability is evident throughout all her collections and is part of the brand’s ethos to being a responsible, honest, and modern company. In the end the brand main message is ¨ fashion can be done without harming the environment and the animals¨
TARGET MARKET Since Stella McCartney it’s a brand positioned in the luxury market, the target that the brand wants to reach is more restricted. The brand´s target are strong and independent woman of 28-58 years old with a high income. that the brand wants to reach is more restricted. The brand´s target are strong and independent woman of 28-58 years old with a high income. Stella McCartney customers are brand loyal due to the brand quality and the company´s vlaues. 9
The customers have a dynamic style and fashion awareness, while also being enviromentally conscious. The target customer can be described as a well-to-do business profesional. The customer is an achiever who loves self-expression through inovative fashion styling. Stella McCartney appeals to this customer because her products are fashion forward with modern aesthetics while still being enviromentally sustainable and durable.
OB JE CT IVES
NEW LOOK AND FEEL WITH THE ETHNIC STYLE
PROSPER READY -TO- WEAR COLLECTION
CONTINUE COLLABORATIONS AND EXPERIMENT WITH NEW MATERIALS
IMPROVE SOCIAL MEDIA AWARENESS
LINKING IN CONSUMERS MINDS THE BRAND VALUES
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INSPIRATION EHNIC
STYLE
AUGUSTA
ASBERRY
“When I created my first Dancers they were patterned after the crude figures found on the rocks and cave walls of Africa. My own animated style has evolved but it is still inspired by the spirits of the Ancestral Artists¨ (Globalgallery.com, 2016)
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Augusta began college at San Francisco Junior College in 1949. She later attended San Francisco State, but left to get married and raise her family. In the early fifties she attended nursing school, and subsequently worked as a nurse for 38 years. In the ‘sixties, Augusta returned to college at Peralta College in Oakland, CA, where she took classes in fashion design, fashion illustration and basic design. She began her professional career as a landscape painter in 1971. She later moved to Bremerton, WA with her family, where she began creating an historical documentation of old houses and farms in pastels. This mode of expression continued until 1992 when she created her first African Dancers. The artist has this to say about her Dancers: “When I created my first Dancers they were patterned after the crude figures found on the rocks and cave walls of Africa. My own animated style has evolved but it is still inspired by the spirits of the Ancestral Artists. Her favorite concept is ‘the arrangement of elements’. The non-uniform variation of traditional designs remains off balance, yet it is pleasing. Their method of staggering motifs on cloth, and the juxtaposition of color and line can be compared to the offbeat phrasing in music and dance. She use this ‘offbeat’ concept in her paintings by not establishing a focal point. (Globalgallery.com, 2016)
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INSPIRATION EHNIC
KEITH
STYLE
MALLETT
“I have always been intrigued by the art of etching and the The African American Soul¨ (Keithmallett.com, 2016)
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Keith Mallett was born in Pennsylvania, and received his formal art training at the Art Students League, and Hunter College in New York City. He has worked as a freelance artist and for fifteen years was the in-house artist for Frontline Art Publishers. Keith’s work is currently published by Canadian Art Prints, one of the largest fine art publishers in the world. He said, “I have always been intrigued by the art of etching, but I felt intimidated by the mechanical process, and the use of the chemicals that it involved. Once I overcame my initial trepidations I found etching to be the ideal way to graphically express my ideas. I love working on the cold metal plate, using grounds and acids to fashion a warm image. It is a real thrill to lift the paper from the inked plate and see the completed impression. Creating art has always been a joyful experience in my life, and I feel blessed to be able to share that joy with others.” (Keithmallett.com, 2016) He usually paint African woman with beautiful dresses with ethnical colorful prints.
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WHAT NOT TO DO DO´S
&
DON´TS
Stella McCartney new collection will be inspired in African Tribal Ehnic Style, as explained previously. The intent of this new collection is to get inspired by the core of the ethnic style- Ethnic fashion is a celebration of your origins, your beliefs and your customs. Tribal Ethnic Style is very tipical from Africa, this style is liberal use of color and patterns such as lines, curves and geometrical shapes an the use of elements such as fethers and wraps. The intent is to adapt the Stella´vision with the elements of the ethnic style, and not make a literal approach. The collection and the edtorial need to tranmit a feeling of bohemian lade-back but also an enigmatic feeling. The patterns and the use of accesories are the key elements that connect Stella McCartney an the Tribal African Ethnic style. 15
DO´S
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DON´TS
EDITORIAL BRIEF
For the editorial of the collection, the main idea is to transmit the African Tribal Ethnic style, to represent the style. To achieve this, the styling, the editing of photography, the location and the model attitude will be extremely important. The main point that would make the editorial possible is the editing of photography that with a motion blur effect will give the final “soul coming out of body experience�. It has to transmit a surreal effect. To do this peculiar work, Nick Knight would be the perfect choice. Known for his edgy photos and editing, it would be possible to achieve the final result.
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Emmanuelle Alt will be in charge of the styling of the photo-shoot. She is the fashion editor and stylist of teh French Vogue for 11 years,she succeeded Carine Roitfeld as an editor-in-chief, since February 2011. She has collaborated with the most acclaimed fashion photographers such as David Sims, Mert and Marcus, Mario Testino. (Blog.netrobe.com, 2012) The stylist would include garments and shoes from Stella McCarteny, and complementary accessories, chosen by the stylist.
MODEL CASTING Jourdan Dunn, is a British fashion model. She was discovered in 2006. Dunn has worked for hudge brands such as Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren. She appeared in several covers, such as Vogue, W Magazine, Elle, and participate for several campaigns for brands,such as Balmain and Yves Saint Lauren. Dunn was the first black model to walk a Prada runway in over a decade. She also appeared in the 2012, 2013 and 2014 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. She joined Maybelline New York brand. Forbes listed Dunn in their top-earning models list. Dunn signes a deal with Marks & Spencer to design a kidswear clothing collection. ``Lil’ LonDunn by Jourdan Dunn``. Her perfect figure and his face will bring the perfect look to teh editorial, and fit with the concept and collection. 18
STYLIST
EDITORIAL MAKE
UP
AND
HAIR
Since the collection is going to be focused on diferent colors, symetry different paterns and very tribal, hair and makeup will have its charm. For the make up we are going to do ¨color¨ we are going to focuse it on the eye with one central color theme, and nothing else. As the model is very youth we are going to keep the look very fresh. Red is the color choosen. The lips would be high- lighted with a very soft and transparent pink lipstick. The hair stylist Eugene Souleman, will give the model hair a tribal look and a texture by crimping a few random sections smoothing them into a low ponytail and also in some of them living the crimping sections in a free hair. Color head wrap (whant to use it)
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P R E PATAT I O N
The editorial would be held in a studio, against a simple black background. The black would be a way to contrast with the colorful patterns of the collection. After talking with the photographer and to know if it possible to photograph in his studio, is time to prepare the day of editorial. In case the photographer can’t provide his studio, a space would need to be rented for at least 6 hours. Transport will be provided to everyone to meet in the final location. The first people to arrive would be the make-up artist, hairdresser and model, to prepare all of the beauty part. The stylist, art director and photographer would be the next to arrive. After choosing the outfits, prepare set and lights, the photoshoot could be started. Food and drinks (fruit, cakes, pizza, water, juices, etc.) would be provided for the whole crew. 20
THE SHOOT TIME
SCHEDULE
9:00 - Meet in the location with all of the equipment, model and make-up&hair 9:30 - Beginning of hair and make-up & set of food, clothes, chairs, etc. 10:30 - Arrival of stylist, art director and photographer 10:45 - Finish of hair & make-up. Break-time for model. 11:00- Choose of outfits & accessories; guide model for poses and expressions & test light and others. 12:00 - Final tests & Retouches 12:30 - Beginning of Photo-shoot 15h00 - End of photo-shoot + lunch time 16h15 - Pack up everything to leave
ART
DIRECTION
The art director would be focused on making sure the clothes were placed properly in the photos, and to guide some models poses. He would make sure that the main feeling of the editorial was being transmitted, and if everything look cohrent. A double check on make-up and hair would be made too.
MODEL
DIRECTION
The famous photographer Giampaolo Sgura, who already worked with her, would direct the model, Jourdan Dunn. The chemistry between both would be fantastic, and he will guide Dunn with music to get in the specific mood. She will use expression and poses that reflect an elegant but sauvage mood.
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POST SHOOT RETOUCHING
The retouching will be extremly important to dive the final desired shoots. Colors of the garments should be highlighted. Light effect will be applied in different and artistic ways.
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PAG E
L AYO U T
The editorial would feature a black fabric/ paper as background, which means that it will be simple, and contrast with the clothes. The layout of the page will be black, ant the pictures can cover all page, only on a corner, and centered. The black layout would fuse with the photos and give a more coherent look and feel.
PHOTO
PHOTO
PHOTO
PHOTO
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ETHNIC
Clothes: Styling:
Stella
Emmanuelle
Photography: Model:
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McCartney Alt
Giampaolo
Jourdan
Dunn
Sgura
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LO OK BO OK
STELLA
Stella McCartney new collection will focuse on beautiful couture pices inspired by an African Tribal Ethnic Style. A lookbook will be more appropriated in this case, for being directed to people in this business. This lookbook will help stylists to choose the best pieces for their editorials, and for the main consumers to be updated to the new collection. The format of the lookbook is an A4 cover where the lookbook is insterted. The pictures will be in a camel blurish background for the white backround with the stony effect of the pictures to higlite it, and for give a more ethnic view in order for clients to have a better idea of the concept. Pictures will be repeated in the same pages as a shadow of the original to make a nicer effect. Prices and description of garments will be included.
McCARNEY
SPRING//
SUMMER
2016
LOOKBOOK
EXPLANATION 34
DRESS ARTICLE: 2547895 COLOR: SALMON MATERIAL:SILK PRICE:PVA 3535
DRESS ARTICLE: 2547799 COLOR: ORANGE MATERIAL:SATIN PRICE:PVA 36
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JACKET ARTICLE: 2546995 COLOR: LIGHT PINK MATERIAL: CAMLET PRICE:PVA 37 37
DRESS ARTICLE: 2547777 COLOR: YELLOW MATERIAL:SILK PRICE:PVA 38
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MINI DRESS ARTICLE: 2545655 COLOR: IVORY MATERIAL:RAYON CHALLIS PRICE:PVA 39 39
MINI DRESS ARTICLE: 2545765 COLOR: LIGHT PINK MATERIAL:RAYON PRICE:PVA 40
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BLUSE ARTICLE: 2545909 COLOR: WHITE MATERIAL:COTTON VOILE PRICE:PVA 4141
MINI WEBSITE
The website structure is simple and informative. The main point is to let the consumer know about the collection, and update him/her on news about it. The website will have the ABOUT section, that will have two main sections - one about the designers, and another about the two artists. The next section is THE COLLECTION. In this page visitors will find a introduction about the collection and link to see full gallery - COLLECTION GALLERY page. In the mini-website the viewers can find CONTACT page were they can contact us for ask questions or dubts. The website will have regular update posts about the collection. This post will focus on content only of the MYSTICAL SOUL collection. New videos, photographs, editorials, celebrities wearing the collection and interviews. https://stellamccartneyblog.wordpress.comw
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REFERENCES WEBSITE
REFERENCES
Globalgallery.com. (2016). Augusta Asberry - Artist Biography - Global Gallery. [online] Available at: https://www.globalgallery.com/knowledgecenter/artist_biography/augusta+asberry [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Tsjeng, Z. (2015). Jourdan Dunn: ‘It’s hard for black girls’. [online] Dazed. Available at: http:// www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/24349/1/jourdan-dunn-it-s-hard-for-black-models-drop-out [Accessed 19 May 2016] MCCARTNEY, S. (2016). Stella McCartney. [online] Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stella_McCartney [Accessed 23 May 2016]. McCartney, S. (2016). Stella McCartney - Designer RTW, Bags & accessories, Lingerie, Adidas by Stella McCartney, Fragrances, Kids. [online] Stella McCartney - Designer RTW, Bags & accessories, Lingerie, Adidas by Stella McCartney, Fragrances, Kids. Available at: http://www. stellamccartney.com/es [Accessed 26 May 2016]. Stella McCatrtney, (2016). [image] Available at: http://files.lookbooks.com/files/profile_media/4e303c10-cdbc-44a5-aa47-122f0a7a1917/lg_4e304c41-ff88-41be-b65d1e2b0a7a1917_1311788097_stella-mccartney-mert-marcus-natalia-vodianova-3.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Dreixler, C. (2016). Stella McCartney. [online] prezi.com. Available at: https://prezi.com/ctjvylzng2ca/stella-mccartney/ [Accessed 21 May 2016]. ALEXANDER McQUEEN. (2015). Target Customers, Competitors, Brand Architecture, Brand Position.. [online] Available at: https://mcqproposal.wordpress.com/2015/05/17/target-customers-competitors-brand-architecture-brand-position/ [Accessed 23 May 2016]. The Business of Fashion. (2015). Stella McCartney: Change Agent. [online] Available at: http:// www.businessoffashion.com/articles/people/stella-mccartney-change-agent [Accessed 17 May 2016]. LoveToKnow. (2016). Ethnic Style in Fashion. [online] Available at: http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothing-around-world/ethnic-style-fashion [Accessed 22 May 2016]. MCCARTNEY, S. (2016). Stella McCartney. [online] Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stella_McCartney [Accessed 23 May 2016]. IDEAS, D. (2016). Ethnic style. [online] Design-studio-ideas.ru. Available at: http://design-studio-ideas.ru/en-us/interior-design/interior-design-styles/ethnic-style [Accessed 18 May 2016].
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REFERENCES WEBSITE
REFERENCES
Alexander Wang - Online Store, (2015). Alexander Wang Online Store - Home. [online] Available at: http://www.alexanderwang.com [Accessed 21 May. 2016]. Facebook, (2015). Stella McCartney. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/stellamccartney?fref=ts [Accessed 21 May. 2016]. Instagram.com, (2015). Stella McCartney (@stellamccartney) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://instagram.com/stellamccartney/ [Accessed 21 May. 2016]. Net-a-porter.com, (2015). Shop Chloé at NET-A-PORTER.COM | NET-A- PORTER.COM. [online] Available at: http://www.net-a- porter.com/Shop/Designers/Chloe?pn=1&npp=60&image_view=product&dSc roll=0 [Accessed 21 May. 2016]. Odriozola, A. (2013). Gwyneth Paltrow y Stella McCartney colaboran en una colección cápsula. [online] Glamour. Available at: http://www.glamour.es/celebrities/noticias/articulos/gwyneth-paltrow-and- stella-mc-cartney-colaboran-en-una-coleccion-capsula/18743 [Accessed 21 May. 2016]. Stella McCartney - Online Store, (2015). Stella McCartney - Official website. Women’s ready-towear, accessories, lingerie, sports performance collection “adidas by Stella McCartney,” eyewear, fragrance and kids. [online] Available at: http://www.stellamccartney.com/es [Accessed 21 May. 2016]. Stella McCartney, (2012). Sustainability Questions and Answers. [online] Available at: http:// www.stellamccartney.com/experience/us/stellas- world/sustainability/sustainability-questions-and-answers-3/ [Accessed 21 May. 2016]. Stella McCartney, (2013). Stella McCartney in Barcelona. [online] Available at: http://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/stella-mccartney-in-barcelona- 2/ [Accessed 21 May. 2016].
IMAGES
&
VIDEO
REFERENCES
Sage, A. (n.d.). Winter Truth. [image] Available at: http://amandasage.com/wp-content/gallery/ paintings-2010/winter-truth-new-72.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Sage, A. (n.d.). Africa Ethnic. [image] Available at: http://amandasage.com/wp-content/gallery/ paintings-2012/orphic-awakening-finalweb.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Editorial love - sheer effect, (2016). [image] Available at: http://lovelybylucy.com/2013/03/ editorial-love-sheer-effects/ [Accessed 20 May 2016].
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REFERENCES IMAGES
&
VIDEO
REFERENCES
geometrico, m. (2016). [image] Available at: http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/x/modelo-geomĂŠtrico-ĂŠtnico-21682147.jpg [Accessed 22 May 2016]. Stella McCartney, (2016). [image] Available at: http://file:///Users/ANDREA/Desktop/IMAGENES%20UTILIZADAS/2012ssstellamccartney03.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Editorial love - sheer effect, (2016). [image] Available at: http://lovelybylucy.com/2013/03/ editorial-love-sheer-effects/ [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Sage, A. (n.d.). The Great Spectacle. [image] Available at: http://amandasage.com/wp-content/ gallery/paintings-2013/the-great-spectacle-web1_0.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Sage, A. (n.d.). Stella McCartney Portrait. [image] Available at: http://amandasage.com/ wp-content/ gallery/news-images/amanda2_mg_web1.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Sage, A. (n.d.). Limbic Resonance. [image] Available at: http://amandasage.com/wp-content/gal- lery/paintings-2011/limbic-resonance-web.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Robbie Spencer. (n.d.). [image] Available at: http://i.models.com/i/db/2011/2/40041/40041500w.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Pinterest, (n.d.). Jourdan Dunn; the face. [image] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/ pin/428334614529547042/ [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Sage, A. (n.d.). Winter Truth. [image] Available at: http://amandasage.com/wp-content/gallery/ paintings-2010/winter-truth-new-72.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Sage, A. (n.d.). Africa Ethnic. [image] Available at: http://amandasage.com/wp-content/gallery/ paintings-2012/orphic-awakening-finalweb.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2016]. Editorial love - sheer effect, (2016). [image] Available at: http://lovelybylucy.com/2013/03/ editorial-love-sheer-effects/ [Accessed 20 May 2016].
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