Comentario Magazine ISSUE I

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COMENTARIO O

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2 0 1 9 SHOULD WE REALLY BE LABELLING PEOPLE TO ONE WORD?

ISSUE I: THE BEGINNING

W I N T E R

INSIDE COMENTARIO’S FIRST ISSUE: THE FASHION INDUSTRY AND ITS INFLUX OF MARKETING_. WE ARE BEING FUELLED _. STATE OF THE EARTH _. IS MORE THAN SKIN-DEEP_.

VOLUME I


CONTENTS

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A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR: ANDREA PENALBA Editor’s note Text by : Andrea Penalba

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MORE THAN SKIN-DEEP: RACISM

STATE OF THE EARTH: PLASTIC WASTE

Guess Editor: Inez Maza Proof Editor: Madeleine Sutka Creative direction / Styling: Andrea Penalba Photography: Cameron Cox Videographer: Joshua Stoker Models: Grace Daly, Robert Babawale Make-up Artist: Cristina Londono

Guess Editor: Inez Maza Proof Editor: Madeleine Sutka Photography / Creative Direction: Andrea Penalba Videographer: Joshua Stoker Make-up Artist / Model: Cristina Londono


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SHOULD WE REALLY BE LABELLING PEOPLE TO ONE WORD? GENDER Guess Editor: Inez Maza Proof Editor: Madeleine Sutka Photography / Creative Direction / Styling: Andrea Penalba Models: Carlo Pardo, Ann Stocker, Luke Eckl, Peyton Inoff Videographer: Joshua Stoker Make-up Artist: Cristina Londono

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WE ARE ALL BEING FUELLED: MASS FOOD PRODUCCION. Guess Editor: Inez Maza Proof Editor: Madeliene Sutka Photography / Creative Direction / Styling: Andrea Penalba Models: Ann Stoker, Kamilla Murtazina Videographer: Joshua Stoker Make-up Artist: Cristina Londono

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THE FASHION INDUSTRY SUBJECTS THE WORLD TO AN INFLUX OF MARKETING: FASHION CONSUMERISM Guess Editor: Inez Maza Proof Editor: Madeleine Sutka Creative direction / Styling: Andrea Penalba Photography: Cameron Cox Videographer: Joshua Stoker Model: Basie Minus Make-up Artist: Cristina Londono

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COMENTARIO MAGAZINE: CONTRIBUTORS Guess Editor: Ines Maza Proof Editor: Madeleine Sutka Creative direction / Styling: Andrea Penalba Photography: Cameron Cox, Andrea Penalba Videographer: Joshua Stoker Models: Basie Minus, Grace Daly, Rober Babawale, Ann Stoker, Cristina Londono, Kamilla Murtazina, Carlo Pardo, Luke Eckl. Peyton Inoff


LETTER

WELCOME TO COMENTARIO ISSUE I ! AN INTERA SPECIFIC CONTEMPORARY ISSUES REGARDING CULTURE, FASHION, AND TECHNOLOGY ARE EXPL CONCEPT-DRIVEN FASHION SETTING. THERE IS TO BE MORE INVOLVE IN NOT ONLY OUR ALSO IN CURRENT ISSUES THAT DIRECTLY AFFECT MY GOAL IS TO GET YOU HOOKED, WALKING JOURNEY OF KNOWLEDGE AND AWARENESS. W

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FROM

ACTIVE DIGITAL COMMENTARY MAGAZINE WHERE G THE ENVIRONMENT, ECONOMICS, POLITICS, LORED AND APPROPRIATED IN AN EDITORIAL AND S A NEED FOR US AND YOUNGER GENERATIONS PERSONAL INTERESTS AND PASSIONS, BUT US AND THE FUTURE OF UPCOMING GENERATIONS. G YOU THROUGH AN ARTISTIC AND CREATIVE WE ARE THE CONSECUENCES OF OUR FUTURE.

A N D R E A P E N A L B A

EDITOR EDITOR-IN-CHIEF AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR


SHOULD

REALLY LABELLING TO WORD

Gender. A topic under hot debate in recent years. Gender identity is a trifling question. How would I identify myself? I’m a woman, but first and foremost I am human. We should never strip someone’s humanity from anyone, nor their identity. Fortunately, our generation is aware and (for the most part) accepting of identity, specifically in terms of gender. Gender identity is the concept of one’s selfidentity. Whether your pronouns are she, he, or they, we live in a society where it is finally acceptable to be who you are. In 2015 a “fusion millennial poll of adult ages 18-34 in the USA found that the majority see gender as a spectrum, rather than a man/woman binary” [1]. Our society has become more accepting and open to the possibility that people should not be identified as just one thing. We aren’t limited to what people say we are. We have the freedom to feel and be whoever we want and whoever we are. This freedom is apparent in the fashion industry, where rigid gender norms are dismantled. If we look at the evolution of fashion, we find companies who started making men’s clothing for women. Without gender barriers, women were able to wear whatever they wanted. Calvin Klein opened the door for women to wear jeans. In 2013, Sharpe Suiting, a company which focuses on style identity, was founded, and they began their journey of inclusivity with their “patented and trademarked formula ‘Andropometrics’” [2]. We even have Celine Dion making gender-neutral clothing for children! She has collaborated with children retailer Nununu and begun making stylish black and white outfits.Gender neutrality isn’t a new concept. In ancient Rome, people wore pretty much the same clothing, no matter their gender.

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Gendered clothing is a Westernized occurrence. Marc Bain comments on this in an article he wrote in 2015, “in ancient Rome, most of the design of a cloth garment took place on the loom, which meant everyone wore what were essentially long rectangle of draped fabric. Those long rectangles eventually developed a hold for the wearer’s head and stitched sides, becoming a tunic. Both men and women wore them through the Middle Ages, and the difference between them were minimal” [3]. Gender neutral clothing was also present in other societies, such as Japan. The Kimono replaced two-piece clothing, and both men and women wore them, belted with an obi or sash. Of course, there were accessories that differentiated the genders, but it was nothing compared to the standards of western dress. Trends are changing. Fashion designers are sending androgynous looks down the runway and making ungendered collections. Brian reports that even though “cool, iconoclastic labels, such as Comme des Garçons, Rick Owens, and Rad Hourani, have been doing it for years, now Gucci is presenting pussy-bow blouses for guys, and Prada showed a collection last June that was simultaneously his and hers.” [4]. This trend is a look back on questions regarding gender roles that surfaced in the 70s. According to Paoletti, the author of Pink and Blue: Telling the Boys from the Girls in America, “there were a lot of questions raised by feminism, the Civil Rights movement, the gay rights movement about gender roles, and the extent to which individuals should follow gender roles… and part of that is going to be the way you look” [5].



Fashion is a way we can conform to and destroy gender roles, and the way it’s developed is a prime example. Androgyny and genderless clothing are gaining traction. With more worldwide acceptance of individual identity, the fashion industry has adapted. As Fabio Costa says, “times are different, and therefore, fashion needs to be as well” [6]. It is important in our society to allow people to be themselves, and clothing is an easy way for people to identify themselves. The things we wear tell people who we are, how we feel, and should be something that makes us comfortable in our own skin.

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PEYTON PEYTON PEYTON PEYTON PEYTON

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GENDER GENDER GENDER GENDER GENDER GENDER GENDER

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SUBJECTS THE WORLD TO AN INFLUX OF MARKETING_.

SUBJECTS THE WORLD TO AN INFLUX OF MARKETING_.

THE FASHION INDUSTRY_.

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THE FASHION INDUSTRY_.



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Fashion is defined as “a popular trend, especially in styles of dress” [1]. However, this is a vast understatement. Fashion is so much more. It is a “lifestyle, a form of expression and most importantly it is a form of art” [2]. Artistic expression in fashion is what drives the industry. Brands such as Comme des Garçons present their label as art, as well as Moncler and their recent Genius drop where they collaborated with Pierpaolo Piccioli along with seven other artists. Their pieces are not readyto-wear fashions for the everyday consumer, but their concept stems from collaborating with other artists. This form of fashion is what gives me hope, as an artist myself, I flourish through collaboration. The fashion industry subjects the world to constant marketing.

An influx of information tells us what we should wear and how we should look. We are “commercially and socially conditioned to waste our money on the fashion industry” [3]. We take advantage of globalized production. We outsource massive scale production to low-income countries and we pay lowly wages that cause inhumane conditions for the workers. The subsequent cheap labor allows big companies to buy products in bulk at low prices. The inequality is prevalent in the board rooms as well. The CEOs of Zara, Topshop, H&M, River Island, Next, and Gap are all male, which is shocking considering the industry is primarily funded by women. Inequality in the fashion industry takes many forms, with sexism and classism at the forefront.



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Fashion consumerism is a huge part of our lives. We live in a world where it is important to follow trends and have the newest fashion. We have generated a need for constant gratification and a constant influx of new outfits. It has been established in our lives and culture that it is not normal to wear the same clothing over and over again. Fashion is embedded into our lifestyles. It is estimated that “one in every six people in the world are employed in some part of the global fashion industry” [4]. Fashion is everywhere. It is constantly adapting, changing, and growing, and we all want more of it, and we all want it fast and cheap. Waste is a big issue in the fast fashion industry. We’re dealing with disposable, cheap clothing. Affordable clothing is often viewed as a positive thing, you’re able to buy and have more, but this mindset is ruining both the planet and the fashion industry. We are wearing low quality, cheap clothes, but try to present them as high quality. The rate at which we purchase clothing is not sustainable. In an article written by Wendy Priesnitz about the problems with fast fashion, she estimates that “on average, Americans buy a new piece of clothing every week” [5]. This amount of shopping and turnover of clothing is what is ruining the planet. Although inexpensive issue, high fashion a huge environmental immense. Companies and Louis Vuitton This prevents their discounted prices and, the “wrong” kind of their brand. According by Brendan Cole in “the luxury clothes its checked designs, $250 polo shirts, said it in beauty products and to-wear products and can we let this happen?

fast fashion is a huge brands are also creating impact. Their waste is like Burberry, Channel, all burn their stock. products from entering therefore, prevent customer from wearing to an article written Burberry annual report, maker, renowned for $1,800 trench coats and destroyed $13.76 million $24 million in readyaccessories” [6]. How

The burning of stock is said to help stop brand copyright infringement These companies don’t want counterfeit products reaching the market. However, it is more important that the products don’t reenter the marketplace and devalue the brand. High fashion companies claim they are conscious of the impacts of the industry. They make sure that they burn the clothing in an energy efficient way. H&M, for example, “said it burned unwanted stock to power the Swedish city of Vasteras” [7]. This is similar to Burberry who is “seek[ing] ways to reduce and revalue our waste” [8]. If all companies took the consequences of their actions into play, our world wouldn’t be suffering the way it is. Overall, fast fashion is a cheap and attainable way to stay on trend. However, it is a part of the industry that is detrimental to the environment, as well as involved in poor labor practices, and inequality of the workforce. We need to be mindful of our spending practices and truly decide if a new outfit a week is really worth the dire consequences.

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MORE THAN

Racism is as prevalent today as it was in the 18th century. The American empire was built on the back of slaves, and even once slavery ended, discriminatory laws continued to shape the country. The past use of segregation forced African Americans to have their own schools, neighborhoods, churches, and even hospitals. Segregation still shapes the demographics of cities and towns today. Lack of integration has been the heart of North America. Leaders follow antiquated ideologies, believing that some races and demographics are “lesser” than others. According to Audrey Smedley, since the 20th century “many conflicts around the world have been interpreted in racial terms even though their origins were in the ethnic hostilities that have long characterized many human societies” [1]. Racism is more than skin-deep. It is a division of groups that can simply never be transcended. Racism elicits hatred and violence.

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Fortunately, many have tried to step away from these discriminatory and hateful points of view. Many agree that the mindset of a “superior race” is wrong, and should be dismantled. They do this by promoting human rights through politics, art, writing, and fashion. However, just because fashion is used to promote human rights, it can also be used to perpetuate stereotypes. Recently, a pair of shoes caused controversy throughout the world. Katy Perry’s new collection with Global Brands Group released a pair of black shoes with bright red lips - a clear symbol of blackface. Following backlash from the public, the shoes were pulled off the shelves. However, it is an atrocity that these shoes were even made in the first place. How could the fashion industry allow this to happen? According to Perry and Global, they had no intention of offending anyone, “and [they] abhor all forms of racism and racist imagery” [2].

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Racism in fashion is a recurring issue. In November, Dolce and Gabbana advertised an event in China by playing into cliches and stereotypes about Chinese food and Asian women - they featured a model struggling to eat pizza with chopsticks. How can we allow these stereotypes to be normalized? The fashion industry is huge and a large part of our society. It impacts everything in our lives, and we have to hold it accountable. On the other end of the spectrum, Carla Fernandez is an artist who works with her husband Pedro Reyes. Their art comments on social issues. They both use different mediums and focus on different social issues. Fernandez comments on “philosophy of creation rooted in the ethics of work, environmental issues and cultural preservation from indigenous processes� [3]. Her art is used to spark social transformations. She uses fashion as a way to share positive messages and to share the work of indigenous groups. We need more people using art in this way. The more people to make a statement about inequality, the more likely the world will change to follow the message. Fashion and art are great avenues for social change. The offer commentary and make a difference in the world. Through art, we give marginalized people voices, and we give hope. The 2019 Oscars were a great example. Black Panther won 3 Oscars, a film that audiences from all backgrounds loved, and that starred an African American cast.


It was proof that black movies sell, and that the world is tired of the same powerful white men headlining our action movies. The costume design focused on ways to “bring ancient Africa to the foreground in a way that’s never been seen before in cinema… You had to imagine a place that didn’t get colonized by the Dutch or the British. So what would that be like? How would their culture stay intact, and what would it look like?” [4]. The costume design was revolutionary. It inspired young cosplayers and excited children who had never seen themselves represented on the big screen. Black Panther brought new possibilities and hope of what the future of cinema will bring.

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It is important for all groups of people to have a voice, and art is a way to provide that voice. Although our society is not as evolved as it should be, people are now being given the chance to share their stories, which will help elicit change. By sharing our voices, the world will be able to change, grow, and develop into a more inclusive place. We need to get people to push aside their differences and complications. We need to be a part of the change. We need to share our stories. It inspired young cosplayers and excited children who had never seen themselves represented on the big screen. Black Panther brought new possibilities and hope of what the future of cinema will bring.


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Litter, pollution, and overfilled landfills cause our planet many issues. We aren’t aware of the impact our actions have on the environmental state of the earth. This ignorance and lack of knowledge create even more concern. Our planet is slowly dying, climate change is melting the icecaps, and insects and animals are going extinct. At the forefront of the environmental crisis, plastic waste is and always will be one of the biggest opponents of a healthy planet. Single-use plastic is one of the most detrimental issues. According the the UN “one million plastic drinking bottle are purchased every minute, while up to 5 trillion single-use plastic bags are used worldwide every year. In total, half of all plastic produced is designed to be used only once� [1]. The amount of plastic waste has increased exponentially. From the 1950s to the 1970s only a small amount of plastic was produced, a completely manageable amount. However, by the 1990s, plastic waste had tripled. In the early 2000s, the output of plastic waste had risen more in that single decade than it had in the previous 40 years. Today we are producing about 300 million tons of plastic waste every year. That is near equivalent to the weight of the entire human population. More than 8.3 billion tons of plastic has been produced since the early 1950s, and unless something changes, that number will continue to increase dramatically.

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We need to change the way we handle plastic waste. We are not recycling or caring where the plastic ends up. According to the UN, only 9% of plastic waste is recycled and only 12% is incinerated. The other 79% has accumulated in dumps and landfills. Cigarette butts are the most common item found, followed by plastic bottles, bottle caps, and straws. The sea carries these objects from deep inland. The ocean has had 8 million tons of plastic reach it this year alone. Ten rivers from Africa and Asia combined are the largest contributors spreading plastic waste. Plastic does not decompose, which makes these statistics terrifying. Plastic only gets smaller and smaller. The tiny particles left behind are usually ingested by animals, which end up on our plates as food. Plastic particles have also been found to clog our drains and contaminate our fresh water. By closing up our sewers, plastic is providing a breeding ground for mosquitos and pests. Plastic waste, specifically plastic bags, can increase the transmission of vector-borne diseases like malaria. If we continue the way we are going, by 2050 we could have more plastic than fish in our oceans.

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The five countries that produce the most plastic waste are Chine, Indonesia, the Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam. According to the UN, “these countries are experiencing rapid economic growth, which is reducing poverty rates and improving the quality of life for hundreds of millions of people. But as these economies grow, consumption booms - and so does the use of plastic goods� [2]. As these countries develop and grow, they have to figure out how to accommodate a growing population, and an easy solution is the introduction of more disposable goods. Governments are, however, trying to fix this problem. In the last decade, dozens of national and local governments around the world are pushing for businesses to cut out single-use plastic. This number continues to grow every year. Although we are becoming aware of the dangers and using less of single-use plastic, we still need to do more! The UN has highlighted a plan with concrete steps to #BeatPlasticPollution. They ask us to pressure food suppliers to use non-plastic packaging, to take our own shopping bags to the supermarket, to refuse plastic cutlery and straws, to pick up any plastic we see littering the streets, to carry a refillable water bottle, and to tell local officials that you support a ban on single-use plastic bags. These are all easy steps we can adopt into our everyday lives. And if everyone makes these small changes, we might just start an anti-plastic revolution.


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Mass food production has become a huge issue in our day and age. We are facing extreme environmental impacts as well as personal health issues. Fast food is easy and quick. Who doesn’t want to get food in 10 minutes for under 10 dollars? Mass production companies farm animals, keeping them in dangerous and unhealthy living conditions. The treatment of animals poses health risks and is ethically unacceptable. We are being fueled by unhealthy, toxic food. Mass produced food is frozen and reheated. Restaurants are cutting corners by not preparing fresh food and lying to their customers. Companies that purchase mass produced food are serving artificially flavored food, ensuring that everything that everything tastes the same. The fake flavors and lack of freshness also guarantee that the food is high in fat, calories, sugar, and sodium. People then wonder why they are so unhealthy. The answer is under everyone’s noses. It all comes down to the food we’re eating. Fast food is not only a nutrition issue, but it has become an environmental issue. Before production even begins, natural habitats are destroyed. The land is cleared for crops and cattle. Native flora and fauna are dying because of our eating habits. More species are going extinct and our ecosystem is changing. One clear example of this is the honey bee. It is in extreme danger of becoming extinct. Bees are an essential part of pollination. Without them, plants will die, expediting major climate change as forests are “major carbon sinks that remove greenhouse gases from the atmosphere” [1]. Deforestation isn’t the only issue. The use of chemicals causes “a significant amount of nutrients, water, and energy being taken from the land. This leaves the land barren and unfriendly for the growth and development of new organisms and ecosystems” [2]. This issue is especially prevalent with monocultures, land which is only used for one crop. The lack of plant variety is detrimental for the soil and creates an unhealthy and unsupportive environment for plant growth. We are using the land for mass food production and then leaving it barren with no chance of regrowth. This issue is causing desertification, as water and life abandon the overworked land.

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We also have to consider food waste. From the “initial crop growth, to supermarket screening, to final household consumption. Food waste includes food scraps, discarded food, and uneaten food” [3].

WE ARE A L L BEING FUELLED



One of the scariest things to think about is that “one third (1.3 billion tons) of food produced globally is wasted every year. Amounting to about one trilion US dollars’ worth” [4]. As a community, we need to try to change these statistics. People die of starvation every day, even though “an area larger than China and 25% of the world’s fresh water supply [which] is used to grow food that is never eaten” [5]. Capitalist greed is the root of the problem. Everyone wants to make a profit, and no one wants to help the less fortunate. Money is greater than people - at least to the corporate world. Fortunately, there are people who are trying to make changes in their lifestyle to help the world. Some live a minimal waste life, where all of their trash can fit in a mason jar. Some use reusable toilet paper or menstruation products, and some changes are minimal but helpful like using a reusable water bottle.

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However, despite these lifestyle changes, our world makes it cheaper to waste food instead of changing the way we live. The facilitation of cheap food wins over environmental health. Nevertheless, our generation is finding a way to fight back. Young people are becoming vegetarian and vegan. By focusing on plant-based foods, we are able to be more efficient with our resources, as vegetable production requires fewer fossil fuels, as well as less land and water. There are many extremely positive reasons to become vegetarian or vegan. It is important to be aware of the impact you have on the world. Don’t do it because it’s trendy or you want to be “cool” or “hip”. Do it because you understand how your everyday life impacts the world. Do it for future generations. Do it so those who come after us can have the same chances we have.



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REFERENCES SHOULD WE REALLY BE LABELLING PEOPLE TO ONE WORD? GENDER [1] “Understanding Gender” (Gender Spectrum) <https://www.genderspectrum.org/quick-links/ understanding-gender/> accessed March 4, 2019 [2] “12 Gender-Neutral Clothing Brands You Need to Know About” (Her Campus) <https://www.hercampus. com/style/12-gender-neutral-clothing-brands-you-needknow-about> accessed February 23, 2019 [3] [4] Fessenden M, “Gender-Neutral Clothes Are Trendy, But Not New - Humans Dressed Similarly for Centuries” (Smithsonian.comApril 29, 2015) <https:// www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/genderneutral-clothes-arent-new-humans-dressed-similarlycenturies-180955109/> accessed February 12, 2019 [5] [6] Bain M and Bain M, “Sex and Gender Aren’t Perfectly Binary. Why Should Clothes Be?” (QuartzApril 26, 2015) <https://qz.com/381790/sexand-gender-arent-perfectly-binary-why-should-clothesbe/> accessed March 1, 2019

MORE THAN SKIN-DEEP: RACISM [1] Smedley A, “Racism” (Encyclopædia BritannicaMarch 22, 2017) <https://www.britannica. com/topic/racism> accessed February 13, 2019 [3] “‘Think Twice’” (SCAD Museum of Art) <https:// www.scadmoa.org/exhibitions/2019/think-twice> accessed March 2, 2019 [2] Givhan R, “Seriously, Prada, What Were You Thinking?: Why the Fashion Industry Keeps Bumbling into Racist Imagery” (The Washington PostDecember 15, 2018) <https://www.washingtonpost.com/ arts-entertainment/2018/12/15/seriously-pradawhat-were-you-thinking-why-fashion-industry-keepsbumbling-into-racist-imagery/?noredirect=on&utm_ term=.1c37f9472b2c> accessed March 2, 2019 [4] Placido DD, “Costume Designer Ruth E. Carter Talks The Inspiration Behind ‘Black Panther’” (ForbesJanuary 31, 2018) <https://www.forbes.com/ sites/danidiplacido/2018/01/31/costume-designerruth-e-carter-talks-the-inspiration-behind-blackpanther/#3614fa754d25> accessed March 2, 2019

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THE FASHION INDUSTRY SUBJETS THE WORLD TO AN INFLUX OF MARKETING: FASHION CONSUMERISM [1] “Fashion” (Merriam-Webster) <https://www. merriam-webster.com/dictionary/fashion> accessed March 4, 2019 [2] [3] [4] “The Fashion Industry Makes Us Puppets of Consumerism – Trinity News” (Trinity NewsFebruary 26, 2016) <http://trinitynews.ie/2016/02/the-fashionindustry-makes-us-puppets-of-consumerism/> accessed February 9, 2019 [5] “Is Your Slip Showing? The Problem With Cheap Fashion by Wendy Priesnitz” (Grass-Fed Beef: Is it Green, Humane and Healthful?) <https://www.life. ca/naturallife/1302/problem-with-cheap-fashion.htm> accessed February 19, 2019 [6] [7] [8] Cole B, “Burberry Burns Millions of Dollars of Clothes to Stop Them from Being Sold at Discount Prices” (NewsweekJuly 19, 2018) <https://www. newsweek.com/luxury-brands-prefer-burn-millionsdollars-worth-clothes-over-letting-wrong-1032088> accessed March 3, 2019

WE ARE ALL BEIGN FUELLED: MASS FOOD PRODUCCION. [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] “Environmental Impacts of Food Production” (Youth Leadership Programs | Maple Ridge, BC) <https://www.mapleridge.ca/1776/FoodProduction> accessed February 19, 2019

STATE OF THE EARTH: PLASTIC WASTE [1] [2] “Our Planet Is Drowning in Plastic Pollution. This World Environment Day, It’s Time for a Change” (UN Environment) <https://www.unenvironment.org/ interactive/beat-plastic-pollution/> accessed March 2, 2019






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