Andrea Urquijo Canal Brand Development Project CKW2 BA Fashion Marketing & Communication Level 6, 2018-2019 6FAMK002C International Branding & Sustainability Clara Mallart, Sergio Costa, Alejandro Gonzรกlez
INDIA
Contents 1. Introduction 2. Why expand your business? 3. Internal Analysis 3.1 Company Mission & Vision 3.2 Company Organizational Structure 4. Company’s Local Environment 4.1 PEST Analysis 4.2 Ethics & Sustainability Analysis 5. The International Environment: Foreign Market 5.1 Market Audit PEST Analysis Ethics & Sustainability Analysis 5.2 Competitor Analysis Competitive Analysis SWOT Analysis Company & Product Analysis 5.3 Market Analysis/Cross Cultural Purchase Pattern Analysis Purchasing Behaviour Cultural Aspects 6. Market Entry Strategy 7. Marketing Strategy 7.1 Pricing Strategy 7.2 Positioning 8. Sales & Distribution 9. Operation Overview 9.1 Description 9.2 Implementation Steps 9.3 Ethics & Sustainability strategy 10. Conclusion & Recommendation 11. Bibliography
“We are committed to being a responsible, honest, and modern company. We know that we are not perfect. We will conitue to consider the impact we have on the planet as we design clothing, open stores and manufacture our products. We will probably never be perfect, but you can rest assured that we are always trying.� (McCartney, 2017)
1. Introduction
Stella McCartney is a luxury brand which is linked to an ethical commitment with the resources used and the impact the firm can have in the planet. In the times we are living in, this sustainable movement is of great importance. Buying decisions are needed to be taken into consideration, as it is extremely relevant in today’s world. The main goal of this project is to launch the brand into the new market of India. A proper plan will be developed in a coherent way taking into account the current market. situation.
Build more brand and shareholder value
Growth opportunities
Broaden the customer base
Risk diversification
Proactive Reasons
Sales expansion
Economies of scale
Profit seeking
Reach environmentally friendly customers in another region
2. Why expand your business?
Global competitors: difficult to establish
High and risky investment
Lack of management skills
Regulations and restrictions
Reactive Reasons
Cultural barriers
Trade barriers
Employee management
Economic and political changes
2. Why expand your business?
Why India? - India is one of the fastest growing economies in the world. - UK (where Stella McCartney is from) & India have a strong economic relationship. - It is an emerging economy. - Population of 1.2 billion. - Rapidly expanding middle class: substantial market. - 575â‚Ź billion spent in retail in 2017.
3. Internal Analysis
Mission “We are committed to operating a modern and responsible business. We are agents of change. We challenge and push boundaries to make luxurious products in a way that is fit for the world we live in today and the future: beautiful and sustainable. No compromises. Each decision we make is a symbol of our commitment to defining what the future of fashion looks like. From never using leather or fur and pioneering new alternative materials to utilising cutting edge technologies, pushing towards circularity, protecting ancient and endangered forests and measuring our impact with ground-breaking tools.” (McCartney, 2018) Stella McCartney’s mission is to create beautiful yet sustainable products. They are very commited to the environment and they always take it into account when producing.
3.1 Company Mission & Vision
Vision
“We believe passionately in the power of sustainability as a way of changing the world to be a better place.” (McCartney, 2018) Stella McCartney’s vision is to keep improving the quality of the materials used to have the least negative impact on the environment as possible. They strive to keep learning in order to make the world a better place.
Current Organizational Structure
3.2 Company Organizational Structure
Creative Director CEO Frederick Lukoff
Nothern & Eastern
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney
Europe
Corporate
America
Wholesale Operations
Marketing Director
Charlotte Greve
Laura Cloonan
CFO Sandra Federighi
Control
Finance
Barbara Flori
David Du Toit
Organizational Structure for India
INDIA
Production
Production
Director
Team
PR Digital
Communication Director
Event Media
Finance
Accountant
Director (CFO)
Treasurer
Legal
Laws & Regulations
Director
Team
Store Sales Sales
Online Sales
Director
Trading Director Brand Manager Product Manager
Marketing Director
Advertising Director Promotion Director
Design
Design
Director
Team
4. Company’s Local Environment
UNITED KINGDOM
P
E
Political
Economical
- Brexit: has created uncertainties about politcal
- The UK is the 5th largest economy in the world.
stability.
- Prices were risen in 2017.
- Foreign Direct Investment FDI: many businesses
- Diversified economy: large public and private
have invested in the UK.
sectors.
- Current corporation tax rate for company profits
- Free market.
is currently 19%. - Proactive government.
4.1 PEST Analysis
S
T
Social
Technological
- The UK has a big consumer market.
- The UK is one of the most technologically
- The UK population is currently 66.85 million.
advanced countries in the world.
- Multicultural population.
- The technology sector is one of the biggest
- The UK is ranked in the top 10 countries to
contributors to UK’s economy.
have the most educated population in the world.
- Experts in science and IT.
- Many free public services. - Open to migration. - High dependency ratio.
UNITED KINGDOM
4.2 Ethics & Sustainability Analysis
The UK Government takes into account sustainability. It is for this reason that it has developed four main objectives; effective protection of the environment, social progress assisting the needs of every citizen, good use of natural resources and stable levels of economic growth and development. This strategy claims that every citizen has the right to have a safe, clean and healthy environment. The government hopes to reduce poverty, unemployment, pollution and poor housing. It claims that climate change should be lowered in order to protect the environment and human health. “The UK Sustainable Development Strategy recognises the need for a new, more environmentally sound approach to development, especially with regard to transport, energy production and waste management. The Government wishes to allow economic growth to continue, but more sustainably, to ensure that the costs of growth do result in excessive environmental deterioration or social injustice. Changing the way we think about development is an important part of the UK Strategy. The UK Strategy is a catalyst for change.” (UK Government, 2018) The concern on sustainability is rising all around the world; for example, green energy consumption grew 56,3% in 2017. In addition, there has recently been a media revolution about the environmental impact of fast fashion. Despite this, the UK Government was not very supportive for green spending. This has caused, for example, a fall by 87% of the sales of solar panels and 28% of sales of energy-efficient cars. In this same year, the Government changed the laws on road taxation, which discouraged buyers to buy energy-efficient cars. “The UK government’s removal of financial incentives around renewable energy installations and lowerimpact cars shows that we currently have a regulator choosing not to help ethical markets.” (Ethical Consumer Markets Report, 2018)
UNITED KINGDOM
4.2 Ethics & Sustainability Analysis
There are organizations in the UK which are focused in community co-operation. One of the most important ones is Initiatives of Change, which focuses on sustainability and works on ethical leadership, sustainable living and trust building.
UK Sustainability Legislation Climate Change Act Energy Performance Certificates and Display Energy Certificates CRC Energy Efficiency Scheme Site Waste Management Plans Environmental Impact Assessments (EIA) Flood RIsk Assessments (FRA) BREEAM and the Code for Sustainable Homes
UNITED KINGDOM
News which defined sustainability in the UK in 2018: - “Lidl launches `Too Good To Waste´ fruit and vegetables discount box to cut back on food waste. - “Ex-BT chief Niall Dunne on a mission to create the `Tesla of plastics´ - “UK businesses make world-first pact to slash plastic packaging” - “Why now is the time for corporates to set long-term targets for renewables” - “UK’s largest battery storage facility comes online in Hertfordshire” - “From Amazon to PwC: Meet the companies to have made Mission Possible Pledges” - “World’s biggest container shipper commits to carbon neutrality by 2050” - “Thinking forward: 20 business leaders define the next 20 years of sustainability”
4.2 Ethics & Sustainability Analysis
UK’s best Non-Governamental Organizations (NGO’s) Carbon Trust Renewable UK Recycle Norm Energy Saving Trust British Ecological Society The Wildlife Trusts Ethical Consumer Friends Of The Earth Institution of Environmental Sciences Campaign To Protect Rural England Keep Britain Tidy Environmental Law Foundation
UK Sustainable Public Policies
Promote responsibility for the environment within the organisation and communicate and implement this policy at all levels within the workforce. Reduce the use of energy, water and other resources. Minimise waste by reduction, re-use and recycling methods. Comply with all relevant environmental legislation/regulation. Ensure that our policies and services are developed in a way that is complimentary to this policy. Not prioritise funding needs ahead of sustainability requirements. Encourage all charities to commit to the sustainable development philosophy. Identify and provide appropriate training, advice and information for staff and encourage them to develop new ideas and initiatives. Provide appropriate resources to meet the commitments of this policy. Promote and encourage involvement in local environmental initiatives/schemes.
5. The International Environment: Foreign Market
INDIA
P
E
Political
Economical
- Taxes (income tax, services tax and sales tax) are
- Stable economy.
imposed by the Union Government.
- Growing GDP level.
- The Government encourages free business.
- Fast-growing economy.
- World’s largest democracy.
- Decreasing inflation rate.
- Corruption affects foreign direct investment.
- Opportunities for foreign investors. - GDP: 2.4 trillion dollars in 2018. - GDP is expected to increase to 7% by 2020. - Corporate Tax Rate: 30%. - Key Exports: petroleum, pharmaceutical products, jewellery, readymade garments.
5.1 Market Audit
S
T
Social
Technological
- The rise in India’s ageing population has risen
- Has one of the strongest IT sectors in the world.
pension costs.
- Government is investing in Biotechnology.
- Culture is changing.
- Developed Telecom industry.
- Education is growing.
- High technology development.
- Inexpensive labour force.
- Third most technologically advaned countries in
- Poverty.
the world.
- Second largest population in the world. - Multi-lingual, multi-ethnic and multi-religious country. - Improving standard of living.
Internationalization barriers
5.1 Market Audit
Internal
External
- Informational: difficult to access to
- Currency: currency exchange rate fluctuations.
information and data sources.
- Legal: strict laws and regulations.
- Marketing: difficult to control, high shipping
- Economical: high tariff.
costs, difficult to adapt export product design.
- Governamental: little government incentives.
- Financial: high cost, lack of financial resource,
- Procedural: complex requirements for export
difficult to give credit.
documentations.
- Managerial: lack of managerial time, difficult
5.1 Market Audit
ETHICS & SUSTAINABILITY ANALYSIS
India is the third largest generator of emissions in the world. In this country, sustainability is seen s a challenge. Despite this, the country is very conscious and tries to improve in every possible manner. India is one of the economies which manages waste more effectively. It promotes climate change reduction and environmental sustainability. The Indian culture has a philosophy and values which support a sustainable way of living. In addition, it is very linked to the love for biodiversity and its conservation. One of the challenges this country is facing is air pollution. The pollution level is very high due to the high emissions of CO2 from coal. Furthermore, India has resource scarcities such as water pollution and shortages. In 2014, the Institute for Sustainable Communities was created. Since then, it has been working to improve energy efficiency, health, safety and the environment, together with both local and international brands. The main goals of this community are; to reduce industrial pollution, for factories to be safer for workers, to improve energy efficiency, to reduce emissions and to improve the water supply chain.
5.1 Market Audit
India’s best Non-Governamental Organizations (NGO’s) Navalt, Kerala Avani-Kumaon Replenish Earth GreenObazaar Daily Dump Aadhan Aspartika Biotech Oorja Energy Engineering Oizom S4S Technologies
India Sustainable Public Policies
End poverty in all its forms everywhere. End hunger, achieve food security and improved nutrition and promote sustainable agriculture. Ensure healthy lives and promote wellbeing for all at all ages. Build resilent infraestructure, promote inclusive and sustainable industrialization and foster innovation. Conserve and sustainably use the oceans, seas and marine resources. Revitalize the global partnership for sustainable development.
5.1 Market Audit
India Sustainability Legislation The National Green Tribunal Act The Air (Prevention and Control of Pollution) The Water (Prevention and Control of Pollution) The Environment Protection Act Hazardous Wastes Management Regulations The Wildlife Protection Act The Forest Conservation Act Public Liability Insurance Act The Biological Diversity Act Coastal Regulation Zone Notification
Porter’s five forces
Threat of New Entry - Low threat. - New entry is a lengthy process. - High barriers to entry. - Differentiation on sustainability.
Buyer Power
Supplier Power - Unique design and unique
Competitive Rivalry
approach to sustainability. - Strong distribution channel. - Many available suppliers.
- All of the competitors only operate in India online, no physical store.
- 5 competitors
- Buyers have high income, low
- High competitive advantage
price sensitive. - Lots of information about our buyers.
Threat of Substitution - Low threat of substitution. - High customer loyalty and quality
5.2 Competitor Analysis
COMPETITIVE ANALYSIS
The main competitors for Stella McCartney in India are; Alexander McQueen (high price, non-environmentally friendly), Victoria Beckham (high price, non-environmentally friendly), Vivienne Westwood (high price, environmentally friendly) and UNIQLO (low price, environmentally friendly).
S
W
Strengths
Weaknesses
- Unique design.
- Highly priced.
- Strong image.
- Not that many stores around the world: 21 in
- Worldwide known.
total.
- Good financial status.
- Since the death of McQueen, his style has been
- Good market position.
lost.
- Reaching wider markets.
Key success factors
Company & Product
- Very strong heritage. - Reputation of the designer Alexander McQueen. - The brand was very innovative at its start, resulting in brand awareness and popularity.
- Company vision of imperfect beauty. - Meticulous attention to detail. - Product: womenswear and menswear. Unique style and design.
5.2 Competitor Analysis
O
T
Opportunities
Threats
- Better use of social media accounts.
- Not enough use of social media accounts.
- More storytelling to have a deeper emotional
- Being left behind with other brands expanding
connection with customers.
internationally.
- Strengthen the relationship with customer. - Expand to other countries.
Differentiation points
- The style is the most unique of all the competitors. - It is also the brand which has more heritage and has most brand awareness.
S
W
Strengths
Weaknesses
- Established brand.
- Narrow target audience.
- Worn by celebrities and influencers.
- Highly priced.
- Wearable designs.
- Only sold in select stores, difficult to access.
- Good quality. - Worldwide known. - Good financial status. - Fan base.
Key success factors
Company & Product
- Very loyal customers because of Victoria Beckham’s fanbase. - Style is appealing to a very wide audience. - Has appeared in the most important fashion weeks.
- Victoria Beckham’s mission statement: always being true to herself. - Product: womenswear and eyewear. Collaboration with Estee Lauder.
5.2 Competitor Analysis
O
T
Opportunities
Threats
- Expand in more countries.
- A lot of highly established competitors.
- Expand the line to childewnswear.
- Always linked to Victoria Beckham herself,
- Better usage of social media.
sometimes not seen as a professional brand.
- The brand is improving their social media
- She has previously been perceived as racist.
strategy. - Engaging with sustainability.
Differentiation points
- Very linear and structured style and very appealing. - Always embracing staying true to yourself and your uniqueness. Connected with customers.
S
W
Strengths
Weaknesses
- Professional and established brand.
- Style might not suit everyone.
- Strong brand ethos.
- Not sold worldwide.
- Good approach on sustainability and ethics.
- High price.
- Unique style. - Save The Artic campaign. - Won British Fashion Award For Positive Change.
Key success factors
Company & Product
- Unisex line with a lot of positive repercussion. - Very strong storytelling and brand ethos. - Positive impact with their sustainability approach.
- Company Statement: “Buy less, choose well, make it last, quality, not quantity, everybody’s buying far too many clothes.” - Product: womenswear, menswear, unisex, gifts and homeware.
5.2 Competitor Analysis
O
T
Opportunities
Threats
- Participating on environmental projects.
- High competition.
- Brand growth to gain more brand awareness.
- Upcoming designers also supporting the environment with lower prices.
Differentiation points
- The brand’s involvement with sustainability and ethics. - The brand strongly defined values. - Unique style
S
W
Strengths
Weaknesses
- Affordable prices.
- Very popular in Asia but struggling to enter the
- Consistent design and style.
market in other counrties.
- Innovation. Heat Tech fabric.
- Difficulties in their supply chain reaching to
- Owns whole value chain: able to lower prices.
global markets.
- Japanese ideals with flat organizational structure.
- Short product range.
- Very good in-store experience. - Environmentally conscious. - High quality
Key success factors
Company & Product
- Their wearable technology. - Their quality. - Their approach to being environmentally conscious.
- Company statement: “We believe we can turn the power of clothing into a force for good. By designing, making and selling good clothing, we can make the world a better place.� - Product: womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, babyswear.
5.2 Competitor Analysis
O
T
Opportunities
Threats
- Involving in sustainable projects.
- High competition.
- Opening of new markets.
- No regular supply of innovative products.
- Wearable technology.
Differentiation points
- Heattech technology. - Japanese culture. - Sustainable and “quality over quantity� approach.
5.3 Market Analysis/Cross Cultural Purchase Pattern Analysis
PURCHASING BEHAVIOUR Why do the consumers purchase the products/brand?
Stella McCartney’s consumer has a high income, is feminine and loves self-expression through fashion. It is fashion aware and environmentally conscious, deeply interested in making the right choices regarding shopping. It is an active high class consumer. It shops impulsively and usually purchase what fits in their budget. It purchases products and designs which fit their lifestyle, always taking into account good values when shopping. It is very important to take into account the quality of the products and their three main values; respect for animals, respect for people and respect for nature.
5.3 Market Analysis/Cross Cultural Purchase Pattern Analysis
CULTURAL ASPECTS Which cultural aspects make the new market a good or bad choice to internationalize your company?
As we know, culture affects international negotiations, and it is very important to know which cultural differences there are in the country we want to internationalize in order to know if it is a good choice. India is a diverse country which includes different religions, languages and cultures. Fortunately, English is widely spoken in the country, which would be very useful when making business in India. Indians highly value relationships, which could also be beneficial, as having a good relationship with them could benefit our business. The hierarchy in India is very structured, which could be a bit challenging, as the only ones taking the decisions are the ones on the highest levels. Indian operations are usually more flexible than in the UK. Overall, it is thought that it is a good country to internationalize regarding cultural aspects because, even though there are some clear cultural differences, there are not many negative ones.
6. Market Entry Strategy
The entry strategy which will be used will be licensing. The reason for this is that some products will be produced in India. The brand is going to be very careful with this, because in India price is more important than quality, whereas for Stella McCartney, quality is more important than price. Physical shops will be opened, as well as to give the possibility of shipping to India in the online shop. Stella McCartney should hire a representative agent in India which deeply knows the culture and the country. This agent should be able to perfectly communicate with Indian companies and transmit Stella McCartney’s values. This method has been chosen because after thinking about using the direct export method, it was thought that it would be beneficial for the company to also produce some garments in the country, as it would lower the production costs and would benefit profit.
7. Marketing Strategy
7.1 Pricing Strategy
In order to transmit the actual values of Stella McCartney, which are good quality and sustainable production, we will keep high prices. This strategy will be followed in order for the brand to be perceived with high value and in order to attract consumers with high income and a deep interest in conscious fashion. If the prices were lowered, the brand could lose its international prestige. It is thought that this can be done in India, as the upper class is very strong but also the middleclass is growing, which could also be part of our customer base. The brand wants to be positioned as high quality and high price.
7.2 Positioning
The products which will be sold in the physical store will have the same packaging as in all of the countries Stella McCartney is operating. It is a high end sustainable packaging to give the best service possible to our customers. In the Indian market we will collaborate with the wholesale/ retail structure, assuring that the customer has access to all of the information about the products. It will be very important that all garments include the sustainable tags. The distribution channel will consist of; the producer —> the retailer —> physical store / online store —> consumer
8. Sales & Distribution
The Distribution Channel
The producer
Retailers
Sales force
Physical store
Consumer
Online store
The shipping will be made by ships and trucks. The production made in India will be delivered by truck and the production made overseas will be delivered by ship.
1. Design 10 days
9. Sales
2. Make prototype 6 days
8. Arrive in store
Distribution Chain
7. Transport
Physical store
3. Textile
40 days
8 days
shipped
to stores 2 days
4. Clothing 6. Deliver to
production
distribution
7 days
center
5. Garments shipped 7 days
8. Sales & Distribution
1. Design 10 days
7. Transport to customers From 7 to 14 business days
2. Make prototype 6 days
Distribution Chain
6. Deliver to distribution
Online store
center
3. Textile shipped 8 days
5. Garments shipped 7 days
4. Clothing production 7 days
9. Operation Overview
9.1 Description
9.2 Implementation Steps
As mentioned earlier, Stella McCartney will open physical stores in India in addition to the online store. Furthermore, the brand will establish an office with 10-15 employees in order to have a better control of the sales and production in the country. It will also hire a representative for the country which will be in control of the organization of everything. Opening store events will be held in order to promote the opening of the shops and to gain brand awareness. All of this will be announced through the brand’s social media platforms. Part of the production will take place in India.
* Stella McCartney’s website
9.3 Ethics & Sustainability Strategy
X
In order to maintain the mission and the values of Stella McCartney, the brand will conduct an ethics and sustainability strategy. This strategy will consist, first of all, in communicating their sustainable approach in all of their actions; in the events, in the store, in the labels and packaging and in social media. In addition, to introduce the sustainability concept of the brand in India, a catalogue will be included with every purchase. In this catalogue, an explanation of the materials used and the sources of these will be explained in order for the customers to be informed. This will also be communicated through social media. Stella McCartney will be sponsoring sustainability events in India such as; International Conference On Business Economics and Sustainable Development (ICBESD), India Water Expo, World Congress on Disaster Management (WCDM), World Sustainable Development Summit (WSDS), Clean India Show (CIS) and Water Digest Water Awards in order to demonstrate that the brand is actively engaged with sustainability. Furthermore, the brand will collaborate with the Indian NGO Replenish Earth by creating a charity event in which all funds will be donated to the NGO for the development of tools to manage waste disposal.
10. Conclusion & Recommendation
Stella McCartney is a brand which is deeply involved in ethics and sustainability, always aiming at improving and finding solutions to create a better world. This project has collected information regarding how and why to internationalize to India, one of the BRIC countries. India is a country which takes sustainability very serious, and is open to improve in order to be the most environmentally friendly as possible, although it is still in the learning process. Although internationalization barriers have been found, it is thought that internationalizing to India would be a great opportunity for Stella McCartney which would result in high profit. In order to successfully internationalize to this country, some recommendations should be taken into consideration; have a stronger social media presence, strongly communicate the news and attract new potential customers, always be respectful with the Indian culture and beliefs, follow a deep ethics and sustainability strategy. To conclude, it is thought that if Stella McCartney follows this recommendations, it will succeed in India.
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11. Bibliography
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