MARCH // 2013
FAST FAT FOOD MAGAZINE
FOOD ON THE MOVE FAST FOOD AROUND THE WORLD: Amsterdam // Paris Barcelona // Milan // London // MIAMI INTERVIEW: Daniel Boulud by Jane Sigal ART: RYAN SMITH // MATTEHW DAVIS // PAUL MILES RECIPES: HOW TO MAKE A GREAT HAMBURGER
MENU // INDEX
MAIN COURSE
Fast food around the world
AMSTERDAM // Burger Bar LONDON // Lucky Chip MIAMI // Burger and Beer Joint BARCELONA // El Kiosko MILAN // Tizzy’s N.Y. Bar & Grill PARIS // Big Fernand
SANDWICHES
INTERVIEW
Interview // Daniel Boulud by Jane Sigal
SPECIALS RYAN SMITH // MATTEHW DAVIS // PAUL MILES //
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ART 26 30 34
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DESSERT RECETA // Hamburger
RECETAS 41
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Fast food around the world
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AMSTERDAM Burger Bar
Kolksteeg 2, 1012 PT Amsterdam Opening in June 2007, the first burger bar in Amsterdam’s Kolksteeg proved an instant hit! burger bar quickly grew an enviable reputation amongst locals and visiting tourists alike.
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t the start of 2010, following the enormous success of the original burger bar, we opened the second burger bar at 9.The reason for our rapid success? Aside, of course, from having our loyal customers’ coming back time and again and spreading burger bar name both near and far? We focus upon serving you withthree things: Three very important values, we strongly believe. At burger bar we couldn’t agree more. From our locally-baked range of buns, our home-made creamy Burger sauce and on to the crispy lettuce in your Burger of choice, we the freshest natural ingredients you will taste.When it comes to the Premium Beef in your burger bar Burger - that’ swhere our pride in hamburger quality really speaks! meat the best! Prepared individually to order and cooked whilst you wait; from either Pure Irish Beef, Prime Aged Black Angus US Beef or the genuine Gourmet Burger Of Choice, Wagyu Beef (100% Kobe) - believed, by many, to be the Highest Quality Beef in the World. or your burger bar experience, you’re in for a real treat! Our succulent Portobello Burger is filled with a Portobello Mushroom that’s market-fresh. The Belgian Fries to compliment your Burger
of choice are cut daily on the premises too. At burger bar, Quality always shines through. Take one glance at our menu and you will see that we offer a wide and varied choice. you make the choices, not the ones that we want you to ! Aside from three choices of Premier Beef to choose from for your hamburger, comes the decision over what size of Burger you wish to eat. Want your burger bar Burger grilled Rare or Well Done (Medium/Well Done is our ‘standard’ way) ...we’ll cook it to your ! Will it be sandwiched between a Sesame Bun, or a Brown Wholemeal Bun, or maybe an Italian Bun instead? Whic ever you’d like to try... just take your pick!
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LONDON
Lucky Chip
Netil Market, 11-25 Westgate St, London If you are looking for amazing original burgers and hand cut fries then Lucky Chip is what you want!
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FAST FOOD AROUND THE WORLD
ucky Chip is a brand spanking new shiny burger trailer, complete with flat griddles, deep fat fryers, a big fridge, and a Ben and a Comar. Tables are laid out around the edge of the the car park some under cover, others out in the open and adorned with candles, French’s mustard and ketchup. Outdoor market-style covered structures offer some protection from the elements along the wall of the car park, and an array of old-fashioned memorabilia, from an old German departures sign (pictured below) to a classic 1950s cathode ray television and speakers on top of the burger trailer, offering a throwback to a time before Steve Jobs made technology stylish. Lucky Chip’s menu is simple. It covers the classic burger, fries and onion ring options, whilst adding some funky (and tasty) twists to some of the the staples. Truffle oil sprinkled on your chips free of charge anyone? Beetroot flavour onion rings sure why not, they’re in season... There is also the ‘specials’ menu. A mixture of filmstar-themed burgers. The Eastwood (a veggie option with portobello mushroom, eggplant and pecorino), The Selleck (pineapple, beetroot onion ring,
oak smoked bacon), The Sheen (beer soaked onions, philly cheese, applewood smoked bacon), and the very special burger of the week The Danny Trejo, a stunning bacon chilli cheeseburger combination with chipotle mayo, tequila salsa, jalapenos and sour cream. So if you’ve managed to read to the end of this without being half way to Netil Market, I salute you, you’re a stronger person than me.
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FAST FAT FOOD
MIAMI Burger and Beer joint South Beach, 1766 Bay Road, Miami Beach
The concept of B&B was created from the ground up, and was built through dedicated, hard-working people that shared the same motivation and vision
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FAST FOOD AROUND THE WORLD
he concept of B&B was created from the ground up, and was built through dedicated, hard working people that shared the same motivation and vision. We established our first location in Sunset Harbor, South Beach, on 1766 Bay Road. After opening those doors in August 2009 and being open for just under a year, we opened the doors to a second location Downtown Miami in Mary Brickell Village in July 2010. It has always been our goal to provide our patrons with high quality products, a friendly, energetic, team of employees, and an overall unique and enjoyable dining experience. We get asked all the time if we are looking to expand into new areas and the answer is: Yes! We hope to open another amazing location soon! Here at the B&B, we also beleive that being apart of your community and giving back is extremely important. Among other activities and charities we donate to throughout the year, this year we have decided to give back to help out the St. Jude Childrens Hospital. Throughout 2012, we will be donating 10% of all the sales from our Kids.
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BARCELONA Kiosko
Marquès de l’argentera 1bis, Barcelona
Inspired Burgers of other times, the Kiosko attempts to recover the tradition of gourmet hamburger restaurant in Barcelona with its delicious and healthy burgers.
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FAST FOOD AROUND THE WORLD
he objective of the Kiosk is changing the perception we have of “Fast Food”. The “Fast Food” does not have to be “bad food” (bad food). In fact, their burgers, fries and even their sauces are all homemade and prepared in the same kiosk. And the best part of eating at the kiosk, is that there is no need to rob a bank to eat well. The kiosk is located in the Born district of Barcelona, the coolest city in Europe! You can still see the influence of Dali, Gaudi and Picasso when you walk through its streets. But Barcelona now breathe fresh air, youth and creativity. And this shows in the Kiosk. The kiosk is not a restaurant, a Burger Bar So although you get covered when you ask, the Kiosk promotes a more casual style. But the real fans already know burgers. The best way to enjoy a Burger is grab it with both hands ... and the feast begins. In line with its original way of being, the kiosk also has a special way of serving customers: First you order and pay at the counter. You’ll get a number and drink. Then you can go quietly to the table and play games like Sudoku while waiting for the food. And almost without realizing it, you have the Burgers on the table. In addition, the Kiosk want to be environmentally friendly. So,
to clear the table for the next customer, you can deposit the remains in the appropriate recycling compartments. It costs nothing to lend a hand and incidentally, also When you give to the world. Kiosk philosophy revolves around the bounty. No, not hippies, but like many, think that the world will not go wrong if people were a little more generous. So not only are the rations, so are people. So every three months, help different charities. They spend 10% of everything they earn each Special Burger with these NGOs. If you have any suggestions on which organizations could help, do not hesitate to mention it. They will be glad of adding to its list of future donation.
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MILAN Tizzy’s N.Y. Bar & Grill Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 46, 20144, Milano
Tizzy Beck, the big macher of Tizzy’s, a born and raised New Yorker brings a little piece of NYC to Milano. Serving up the American classic dishes, brunch and drinks
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FAST FOOD AROUND THE WORLD
We declare New York and is called Tizzy: features that highlight a link cord with its inventor, the sophisticated Tizzy Beck, presence almost fixed behind the counter, with his mop and platinum from an Italian tourist. The environment (two dark rooms, flooded with swing music and stuffed to the brim with tables) is suitable for a public fashion and indulgent. As well as the menu, dominated by hamburgers (in a dozen versions, all edible), to which are added sandwiches and salads. In
the kitchen (in sight) are not just weapons of war, but it is clear that the best use is a quick stop. the room (open for nearly a month), simple and straightforward in its balance of blacks and white checkered floor and baskets in which the hamburger is served: a corner of the Big Apple on the canals; The service is quick and efficient, punctuated by a nice sauce of sentences in English and Milanese accent, because here’s Tizzy is said chair seat and not cadrega; the cafeteria and the typical steaming mug of American coffee, which accompany the reading of a book, magazine or the work of the PC (there is also free wi-fi); and last but not the kitchen that churns out fabulous burgers (the excellent Ellen and Norman Burger with cheddar and bacon) and a generous dose of delicious chips, just like the best American traditions. And as I said at the beginning, the burger looks really Tizzy the American miracle in Milan: meat good and tasty ingredients. I would say that Tizzy did a great job, paying homage to the Milanese with the consulate of the flavors and colors of the stars and stripes! And I’m sure he would be proud even the Americans themselves, first of all lords Obama, whose photos peep on the marble counter, between cups of American coffee and backsplashes of muffins!
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PARIS Big Fernand
55 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75009 Paris A brilliant little burger joint, which takes the traditional American burger and gives it the French terroir treatment. Nowhere’s been left out, with regional specialities from all over France wedged between delicious sesame seed buns from the bakery next door.
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FAST FOOD AROUND THE WORLD
he shimmer of fresh bread toasted, the chirping of meat on the griddle, the sweetness of sauce “home”, the smell of a colorful bouquet of fresh herbs and mild peremptory a lie! There’s fourme cheese from Ambert, tomme cheese from Savoie, Saint-Nectaire cheese, Charolais and Blonde d’Aquitaine beef and more.The menu lists five house burgers, but you can also build your own. Choose from beef, chicken, lamb and veal and then add cheese, grilled vegetables, streaky bacon, sauces, herbs or spices. You order at the counter and then try and find a seat, which isn’t always easy – but if all else fails you can get it to go. Chips (known here as ‘fernandines’) come with, and the concept even extends to the drinks and desserts, with homemade soda, organic lemonade, and traditional puddings. Quick and friendly service comes from moustachioed men in checked shirts, all part of why Big Fernand has shot to the top of Paris’s burger ranks. The only slight quibble is the price – about €15 without dessert. The quality of the ingredients is high, but the portions aren’t huge and it feels a little much to pay for what is still fast food. Big Fernand offers burgers made from quality products: meat (beef, veal ...) are chopped up in the morning, cheeses (Tomme de Savoir, Fourme d’Ambert) are not pasteurized the buns are made by a baker neighborhood. In addition to the à la carte burgers, Big Fernand also offers the possibility to compose more adventurous themselves from their burger ingredients in the map.
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The Perfect Burger and All Its Parts By JANE SIGAL Published: June 30, 2012
Over the last decade or so, there has hardly been a serious chef in America who hasn’t taken a shot at reinventing or improving it. They have trained their skills on every element, from the precise grind of beef to the ketchup and pickles. Some have turned their bakers loose on reformulating the bun. By most accounts, the burger’s upward journey began eight years ago, when Daniel Boulud stuffed ground sirloin with truffles, braised short ribs and foie gras at his DB Bistro Moderne in Manhattan. A few weeks ago, Mr. Boulud brought things full circle, opening a burger bar on the Bowery called DBGB Kitchen and Bar. While some chefs have groused quietly about the insatiable demand for burgers, most are philosophical. “All chefs can be frustrated by the buying public sometimes,” said Clark Frasier, a chef with restaurants in Massachusetts and Maine. “In this economy I’m happy to sell anything they want to eat.” All this high-powered attention has produced some new ways of thinking about and cooking burgers. Interviews with 30 chefs provided dozens of lessons for the home cook that aren’t terribly difficult and don’t cost much money.
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A PERFECT BURGER RECIPE There’s a lot you can learn from a man who’s griddled thousands of burgers. Michael David, executive chef at Comme Ça brasserie in Los Angeles, had already earned his burger stripes on the team that developed Mr. Boulud’s French-American DB Burger. At Comme Ça, Mr. David finally nailed the consummate burger on the 11th try. The genius of his Comme Ça burger is that it is consistently juicy, perfectly seasoned and precisely medium-rare. The patty is charred on the outside and rosy pink from edge to edge. It is a radical improvement on what most people already do, but it’s not much more complicated. His trick is to treat the burger the way many chefs do a steak. He puts a good hard sear on both sides using his plancha, the freight train of flat tops, then transfers it to a 375-degree oven to finish cooking. After it comes out, there’s a built-in resting period while he toasts the buns and makes a last-minute lettuce salad. His method translates to an amazing amount of flexibility. Home cooks who don’t have a plancha can sear the meat either on a grill or on the stovetop in a cast-iron skillet.
INTERVIEW
It works equally well for one or two people, or for a crowd, because you can sear in batches. The final cooking works beautifully in a toaster oven as well as a regular oven. Or, if you have an outdoor grill that is as large as some people’s kitchens, you can simply move the burgers to a cooler spot once they’ve been charred. Mr. David melts Cheddar cheese over the patty and dollops iceberg lettuce salad dressed with spicy mayonnaise on top and, voilà, a reformed burger. THE RIGHT CHOICE OF MEAT But before you get to cook the burger, you have to choose the right meat. In “Burger Bar” (Wiley, 2009), Hubert Keller writes that what you do not want is preshaped burgers or meat that is stuffed and compacted into plastic packaging. Once beef is compressed, a light texture cannot be regained. Douglas Keane, the executive chef and an owner of Cyrus and the Healdsburg Bar & Grill in Healdsburg, Calif., advises people to lose their fear of fat. He started with 80 percent lean beef, then moved to a 70-to-30 ratio. “The day I did it,” he said, “the servers started coming in and asking, ‘What did you do to the burger? The guests are going crazy.’ ” Mark Bucher, the executive chef at the Burger Joint in Washington, said that to make a great burger at home, have your butcher grind a piece of brisket. “It’s got a 25- to 30-percent fat-to-meat ratio,” he said. “It’s gorgeous. It’s my favorite.” Pat LaFrieda, president of LaFrieda Wholesale Meat Purveyors, which delivers custom blends to many of the top burger restaurants in New York City, recommends grinding the meat yourself with a food processor or a mixer’s grinding attachment. He prefers chuck and brisket, and said to put them in the freezer first and chill them to 30 degrees.
“It’s like grating cheese at home,” he said. “Or coffee beans. It’s better, isn’t it?” He explained that preground beef is often made from the trimmings left over from steaks, roasts and stew meat. It is important, he said, to choose select, choice or prime grade meat. “When dairy cows come of age, they give a very lean, low-grade beef,” he said. “That’s often what’s used for preground meat. That’s something the consumer wants to stay away from.” A NICE ROUND SHAPE Next, you form the patty. “If you do nothing else, you should handle it less,” said Suvir Saran, an owner of Dévi, an Indian restaurant in Union Square. Mr. Saran, who calls himself a vegetarian who cheats, offers burgers at his restaurant, American Masala in Jersey City. Handling the raw meat too much means you’re going to end up with a brick of meat. Mr. David of Comme Ça thinks a lightly shaped patty holds together better if it’s refrigerated for an hour or two before cooking. Michael Mina, founder of the Mina Group, which includes the recently opened XIV in Los Angeles, rolls each patty into a ball, then presses it flat to get a nice round shape. Alternatively, jar lids are popular with chefs. Mark Richardson, the executive chef at the Four Seasons Hotel in San Francisco, swears the lid of a Hellmann’s mayonnaise jar makes the best possible burger mold. Laurent Tourondel is completely against those chefs who use a whopping 12 ounces of meat. “It’s not too appealing to have such a thick piece of meat to bite into,” said Mr. Tourondel, the executive chef and partner at the many BLT restaurants. He thinks the patty needs to be in proportion with the tomato, the bread and whatever else you have. No matter how big the patty is, one small shaping trick will help it cook better. “The first thing you do is take your thumb and
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make a well in the burger,” said Bobby Flay, the owner of eight restaurants, including Bobby’s Burger Palace, and the author, most recently, of “Bobby Flay’s Burgers, Fries & Shakes” (Clarkson Potter, 2009). Tamara Murphy, the executive chef and an owner of Brasa, in Seattle, said the air and water in burgers make them puff up when they’re cooked. “Nobody wants a ball of a burger,” she said. “Then people take their spatula and go, smash, squishing out all the liquid.” Dimpling the patty, she said, helps it cook evenly, and you won’t be tempted to smack it down and lose all the juice. All the chefs agree that salt is crucial. Whether you’re using kosher, table or sea salt, you should be pretty liberal with it. Beef can take more salt than you think. Most chefs recommended seasoning the burger just before cooking it. HOW HOT DO YOU GO? The beauty of a burger is its seared crust, and the only way to get it is to make sure the grill, skillet or flat top is hot, hot, hot. “You have to be willing to cook over high heat,” said Andy D’Amico, the chef and a partner at Five Napkin Burger, in the theater district, and Nice Matin, on the Upper West Side. Testing for doneness is always a challenge for the home cook. Seamus Mullen, the chef and an owner of the Boqueria restaurants in the Flatiron district and SoHo, uses a wire cake tester. (Any thin, straight piece of metal will work as well.) “We stick it in the middle through the side,” he said. “If it’s barely warm to the lips, it’s rare. If it’s like bath water, it’s medium rare. The temperature will never lie. It takes the guesswork out of everything.” AND THE PERFECT BUN These chefs are focusing their laserlike attention on the bread around the meat, too. The buzzer went off for Hidefumi Kubota,
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the baker at Comme Ça, after Version 14 of the hamburger bun. The bun was too soft and fell apart. Or it was too hard and crushed the burger. It had to be big enough to hold the patty but not so big that you couldn’t get t he burger into your mouth. He ended up with a light brioche bun. Mike Plitt, the pastry chef at Arrows restaurant in Ogunquit, Me., needed about a dozen attempts before he settled on a cross between challah and a buttery dinner roll. But Ryan Skeen, who developed a following for his burgers at Resto and Irving Mill, both in Manhattan, likes Martin’s brand potato rolls, sold at supermarkets up and down the East Coast. Every chef believes that the buns should be warm and crispy. SWEET, SOUR BUT FRESH FIXINGS Nothing is taken for granted, not even pickles. Some chefs have adopted the buy fresh, buy local ethic. Kyle Bailey, the chef at Allen & Delancey on the Lower East Side, for instance, found his pickles around the corner at Guss’ Pickles. He especially likes the sour ones because their acidity plays off the sweetness of the ketchup, mayonnaise and bun. “You want something to cut against the richness,” he said. Other chefs are applying the principle that everything is better if you make it yourself. At MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit, Me., and Summer Winter in Burlington, Mass., Mr. Frasier pickles serrano chilies. Josh Eden, the chef and an owner at Shorty’s.32 in SoHo, serves quick, house-made cucumber pickles, which get their tang from rice wine vinegar. They’re extremely easy, crunchy and spiked with sweet, anise-flavored tarragon, instead of the usual dill. Cheese receives the same attention. Joey Campanaro, the chef and owner at the Little Owl in the West Village, uses American cheese.
INTERVIEW
”You have the eye appeal,” he said. “It looks like what a burger should look like. We’re not elevating it to something it isn’t.” Jim Leiken, the executive chef of DBGB, said the beauty of American cheese is the texture, but rejected it in favor of Cheddar because he prefers its flavor. He also tried blue cheese for a while, but decided it overwhelmed the beef. Matt Jennings, a cheesemonger as well as a chef at Farmstead Cheese Shop, La Laiterie Bistro and Farmstead Lunch in Providence, R.I., is in an unusual position to pair cheeses and burgers. What matters most to him when selecting cheese? “Meltability,” he said. So if a cheese like Gruyère doesn’t melt easily, he grates it,
then presses it into a disk the same size as the burger. The chefs had some final tips for creating a memorable burger. Choose lettuce that’s crisp and serve it cold. Use only really good, ripe tomatoes; a bad tomato waters down the burger without adding any taste. At DBGB, Mr. Leiken replaces the tomato on his Frenchie burger with an intensely flavored house-made tomato-onion compote. Ultimately, though, it’s not just the ingredients that make a burger great, said John DeLucie, the chef and a partner at the Waverly Inn in Greenwich Village. “I had a boss who wanted me to make the dish in a photo he showed me,” Mr. DeLucie said. “Behind the dish was a girl in a bikini. He always wanted to know why the dish never tasted as good when I made it.”
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ART
Section dedicated to artists and photographers who interpret the fast food culture as they see fit. This week three American photographers show us their vision Hamburger in all its shapes and colors. Enjoy!
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RYAN SMITH
Have you been good this year? Discover 25 December morning that Fat and Furious brought you for Christmas!
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Brrrrger: Raw human flesh. Beef heart. Garlic. Canines corn marinated in holy water. Capers Transylvania. Damn pickles. Blood sauce. Tabasco satanic. Eat it before it eats you!
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Weed-rger: Buns of cannabis. Steak so high. Lettuce leaves rolled. Smoked bacon. Egg pouch. Muncheese of Savoy. Lega-legalizacion burger!
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MATTHEW DAVIS
The Burgiving: Roasted turkey. Sweet potato with cinnamon and nutmeg. Currants and cranberries. Melted cheddar. Salad.
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Burger of the Waiver: PapautĂŠe caramelized onions sugar canonical. Retruite early. Benoix kernels. Seizeste lemon. Vaticanriandre. Child lettuce heart. Whim of the gods and jewels fish eggs.
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Go green burger: Cream cheese and wasabi green dye. Cucumber. Fresh mint. Chicken marinated in lime and green dye. Sesame. Eat a burger, you’ll save a tree.
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Tu Quoque Mi Burger: Grilled chicken. Caesar dressing. Anchovies. Romaine lettuce. Tomato. Sprockets. Garlic croutons. Parmesan. I came, I saw, I tasty bite.
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PAUL MILES
The Burger & Furious Fart: Red bean. Prune. Onion. Cream of red cabbage. Cheddar. Steak. Salad. And you, that gauze after the holidays?
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The End Burger: Beef. Sauce trumpets of death. Smoked bacon. Scarmoza. Bursts of red cabbage. Salt crystals. Liquid smoke. Blend at December 12 until impact. And if everything ended with a burger?
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Burger of Troy: Breaded turkey escalope. Pork bacon. Steak. Roasted chicken fillet.
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Dhundi Burger: Bun Curry. Chicken marinated in yogurt, lemon and tandoori. Pickles lime and mango. Coriander. Paprika. Offerings to Ganesh: Bananas.
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Fricocotte burger: Shell multi-grain bread. Nest of spinach. Steak to the hull. With egg.
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Tender hamburger bun, made from scratch and toasted in beef suet
Hamburger glaze of suet, pureed tomato confit, beef stock, and smoked salt
Maitake mushroom, sauteed in beef suet
Romaine lettuce infused sous vide with liquid hickory smoke
Vacuum-compressed heirloom tomato
Cheese single made from aged Emmental, Comtè, and wheat ale
Short-rib patty ground to vertically align the grain
Crimini mushroom ketchup with honey, horseradish, fish sauce, ginger, and allspice
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RECIPES
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HOW TO MAKE A GREAT HAMBURGER Elements of an Ideal Burger
THE BUN
Buns should be warm and crispy. Comme Baker, Hidefumi Kubota, attempted 13 different versions before hitting on this light brioche bun.
THE PICKLES
Serve quick, house-made cucumber pickles, which get their tang from rice wine vinegar. They’re extremely easy to make, cruchy and spiked with sweet, anise-flavored tarragon.
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RECIPES
THE TOMATOES
Use only really good, ripe tomatoes; a bad tomato waters down the burger without adding any taste.
THE ONIONS
Choose onion that is crisp and serve it cold. Serve the burger with red onion dressed with spicy mayonnaise.
THE CHEESE
When it comes to cheese, many chefs are concerned with meltability. The best burger here is topped with cheddar cheese.
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TOTAL TIME: 20 min PREP: 10 min COOK: 10 min YIELD: 4 servings LEVEL: Easy Ingredients: 1 1/2 pounds ground chuck (80 percent lean) or ground turkey (90 percent lean) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil 4 slices cheese (optional) 4 hamburger buns, split; toasted, if desired Directions: Toasted Burger Buns Divide the meat into 4 equal portions (about 6 ounces each). Form each portion loosely into a 3/4-inch-thick burger and make a deep depression in the center with your thumb. Season both sides of each burger with salt and pepper. IF USING A GRILL: Heat a gas grill to high or heat coals in a charcoal grill until they glow bright orange and ash over. Brush the burgers with the oil. Grill the burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the first side, about 3 minutes for beef and 5 minutes for turkey. Flip over the burgers. Cook beef burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the second side, 4 minutes for medium rare (3 minutes if topping with cheese; see step 3) or until cooked to desired degree of doneness. Cook turkey burgers until cooked throughout, about 5 minutes on the second side. IF USING A GRILL PAN: Heat a grill pan over high heat on top of the stove. Cook the burgers as for a grill, above. IF USING A SAUTE PAN OR GRIDDLE (PREFERABLY CAST IRON): Heat the oil in the pan or griddle over high heat until the oil begins to shimmer. Cook the burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the first side, about 3 minutes for beef and
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5 minutes for turkey. Flip over the burgers. Cook beef burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the second side, 4 minutes for medium rare (3 minutes if topping with cheese) or until cooked to desired degree of doneness. Cook turkey burgers until cooked throughout, about 5 minutes on the second side. Add the cheese, if using, to the tops of the burgers during the last minute of cooking and top with a basting cover, close the grill cover, or tent the burgers with aluminum foil to melt the cheese. Sandwich the hot burgers between the buns and serve immediately.