A Millennial's Guide to Lliving in Madrid

A Millennial’s Guide to Living in

MADRID

Andrew Ranzinger

Contents Why You Need This Book The Top 3 I. Basic survival A. Phones B. Money C. Finding basic stuff D. Mail E. Must-haves II. Getting around A. Metro B. Buses C. Renfe (Trains) D. Walking III. Cultural Literacy A. Historical culture B. Popular culture IV. Language Acquisition A. Before you go B. When you’re there V. Things to do A. Food and Drink B. Nightlife C. Callejear D. Historical sites E. Cultural activities VI.Neighborhoods of Madrid VII.Traveling in Spain A. Travel B. Lodging

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Why You Need This Book So you’re going to Madrid. Congratulations! You’ve just made the best decision of your life. I can’t wait for you to fall in love with the most exciting city in the world.

During the 2013-2014 school year, I went abroad to Madrid to study Spanish. I lived with a Spanish family and studied with a program based at the Universidad Rey Juan Carlos.

Over the course of the next year, I worked hard to learn Spanish, make friends, adjust to life in a foreign city, and get the most out of what was quickly becoming the best year of my life. Along the way, I made a lot of mistakes, and learned a lot about basic survival, life in Madrid, Spanish culture, and how to make the most my time there. By the time I left, I had fallen deeply in love with Spain and especially with Madrid. In nine short months, I had become fluent in Spanish, found lifelong friends, got a Spanish girlfriend, and made more fun memories than I had in the last decade of my life.

If you, like me, are going to live in Madrid, whether for work, study, or play, then this guide is for you. I wrote it to share what I learned so that you can accelerate the learning curve, cushion the culture shock, and spend most of your time making great memories instead of trying to figure out how to get your cell phone to work.

This book isn’t a traditional travel guide geared toward tourists, with lists of reviews of various hotels, restaurants, and suggested activities. For that, I highly recommend the Lonely Planet series. Instead, this is a guide with all the advice and information you can’t find in a travel guide and that most people have to figure out on their own—things like the best way to get a phone, where to shop for clothes, why Spaniards kiss each other when they meet and how to do it properly, and what all those Spanish swear words actually mean. Read it through, or use it as a reference guide. It will save you time, money, and most importantly, help you make great memories.

Enjoy Madrid. There is no better place you could spend this time of your life, and I’m so excited for you.

Un abrazo,

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The Top 3 If you only had three minutes to spend on this book, here is what you would need to know.

3 Things to Get Before You Go • A bag or backpack that meets the Ryanair travel specifications (p. 10) • Lonely Planet Spain (p. 10) • Adapters for Spanish electrical outlets (p. 10) 3 Things to Get Once You’re There • A Spanish phone. The best option is a cheap smartphone with a month-tomonth payment plan from Orange. (p.

5) • A Madrid Metro card (abono). Apply online and ride all public transportation for only €20/month. (p. 11) • A scarf from your new favorite soccer team (p. 21) 3 Things to Know • Men greet women and women greet everyone with two kisses. (p. 13-14) • Time works differently. Breakfast is at 8am, lunch is at 2pm, and dinner is at 10pm. Don’t forget about siesta, when most business close from 2pm to 5pm. (p. 14-15) • Tipping is optional. Leave a few coins at restaurants and round up on taxi fares. (p. 16) 3 Things to Do • A tapas bar crawl through La Latina (p. 32) • Walk El Rastro flea market on Sunday morning (p. 34) • See a Real Madrid or Atlético de Madrid soccer match (p. 21)

• La Reina Sofia, Madrid’s most famous •

art museum (p. 32-33) Parque de Retiro, Madrid’s stunning central park (p. 34)

3 Things to Try • Patatas bavas (p. 29) • Tinto de verano (p. 30) • The menú del día at any restaurant (p.

30) 3 Fun Facts • El Clásico refers to the biggest rivalry in Spanish football between Barcelona and Real Madrid. (p. 21) • Joder is the Spanish word for “fuck.” (see all of them on p. 24) • Spain is still a monarchy. The current king is King Felipe VI. (p. 20) 3 Apps to Use • WhatsApp, the way 100% of Spaniards communicate 90% of the time (p. 6) • MetroMadrid, the best way to find your way around Madrid’s metro system (p.

11) • Spanishdict, the best online Spanish dictionary in existence (p. 10) 3 Ways to Actually Learn Spanish • Live with a Spanish family or find Spanish roommates. Spend no time with English speakers. (p. 26) • Find an intercambio (p. 26) • Put yourself on an all-Spanish media diet—radio, TV, movies, shows, books, and newspaper articles (p. 26)

3 Places to Go • Plaza Mayor, Madrid’s largest and most historic plaza (p. 33) 4

Part I: Basic Survival Communication Getting a phone The first decision you will have to make on arrival is how you want to navigate the phone situation. If you brought a smartphone from home, make sure to turn off all data, including roaming data. Nothing is worse than arriving home from a life-changing semester abroad and being greeted with a $400 bill from Verizon because you forgot to turn off your roaming data. WiFi (or WEE-fee, as it is fondly pronounced in Spain) is abundant, and you will have access to it often at home, school, and even many places of business. Being at the mercy of WiFi access is not ideal, however, especially for all those late nights, and so you should opt to get some form of Spanish phone capability.

After all, you are planning to be here for at least several months.

Assuming that you brought your smartphone with you from home, you have three options: 1. Buy a SIM card in Spain for your smart phone (Expensive, not recommended) 2. Buy a cheap Spanish flip phone. Use it for emergencies and your smartphone and WiFi for everything else when possible.

3. Buy a Spanish smart phone. You can get a basic one for €50-€60. (Best option) Phone companies There are four main Spanish phone companies.

1. Orange 2. Vodafone 3. Movistar 4. Yoigo Each brand has small stores scattered all over Madrid. Phone House is an independent telecommunications retail chain where you can find phones and plans from all four companies that also has stores everywhere.

Buying a phone If you decide to go with option 2 or 3 above and buy some type of Spanish phone, go and visit a couple different stores and compare prices and plans. Take a Spanish-speaking friend with you if you don’t yet have command of the language. When I lived in Spain, I chose Orange, and bought a cheap smartphone. For €60, having a smartphone I could use to easily text, navigate, and do internet searches was well worth the price. While I cannot speak from personal experience with regard to the other three phone companies, I used Orange for a year in Spain and every time I have gone back to visit, and I have no complaints. You can buy a cheap smartphone con tarjeta (with SIM card) for €50-€60, and then you select a plan. The one I chose gave me 1GB of data, which was enough to handle all my messaging and navigating, as well as a certain amount of call minutes, all for €15/month. At the end of every cycle, all you have to do is go to the nearest Orange store and recharge your plan using the machine they have set up for that purpose. Coverage was strong wherever I went in Spain, and Orange stores are ubiquitous, making it easy to recharge the phone when needed.

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Calling home When it comes to calling home, there are several options. You may have a plan on your phone from home that allows for international calls, although these are generally expensive. If you are planning to go abroad and your carrier offers such a plan, look at other options first before opting in, and make sure it really is cost effective.

Another seemingly good option is an international pre-paid phone card, but hidden fees and low-to-no customer service can make these more frustrating and costly than they appear. It also requires the use of a land line or someone else’s cell phone, which is an added inconvenience. Video calls via Skype, FaceTime, or even Facebook are all good options for communicating with home, but doing a video call is not always practical. The solution: Skype (www.skype.com) While Skype video calls are free, Skype has a paid service that lets you call mobile and landlines for a small fee. You can buy Skype credit, which will then charge you different rates depending on the country you call (2.3c/minute for the US). Alternatively, you can buy a one-month subscription (cancel anytime) of unlimited calls to a specific country ($6.99 for the US). Combine this with a Spanish smartphone that gives you some data, and you can voice-call any phone in United States from anywhere in Spain on your Spanish cellphone. It works like a charm.

Using your phone in Spain The most important thing to realize about phone etiquete in Spain is that Spaniards, and especially millennial Spaniards, rarely call. Calling in Spain is comparatively much more expensive than it is in North America, as is sending a traditional SMS text message. Consequently, calling is reserved for emergencies only, and a traditional text messaging is never used. 90% of your communication will take place on WhatsApp or a similar messaging app.

WhatsApp (www.whatsapp.com) Download this messaging app if you haven’t already. Recently acquired by Facebook, it is still the preferred messaging app across Spain. The first year of use is free. Even if you prefer another messaging app, you will want to have WhatsApp simply because so many people use it.

Telegram (www.telegram.org) Another newer messaging app launched in 2013, Telegram has an emphasis on security, privacy, and convenience. It’s faster and more secure than WhatsApp, and unlike WhatsApp, Telegram is a cloud-based service, which means you can sync multiple devices, as well as send an unlimited amount of photos, videos, and other files. If privacy is a concern, the “Secret Chats” feature has end-to-end encryption, meaning messages are not stored on a server, as well as the option to set timers on messages after which they will self-destruct.

Money One of the things you will have to decide before you go is how much cash to take with you. Take as little as possible. The vast majority of businesses in Spain have no problem processing payments from any credit card. Europe is quickly moving to all chip6

based payment systems, so make sure your card has a chip. It’s a good idea to carry some cash for emergencies and small transactions, but you can use your card to pay for most things.

Before you go Inform your bank that you will be traveling abroad and for how long. Nothing is more inconvenient than having your card cancelled because you trigger a fraud alert the first time you try it in Spain.

Use ATMs for cash Madrid has one of the highest concentrations of ATM machines of any European city—there is one on almost every corner. While most will charge a small fee for withdrawing money, it is much lest costly than the alternative, which is taking cash and then changing dollars to euros at an exchange shop. Not only are these establishments hard to find and inconvenient to use, but you will pay a much higher exchange rate.

Debit cards I had a debit card in Madrid, and whenever I ran it as a debit card and entered a PIN, my payment was rejected. If I had the vendor run it as a credit card, however, it worked. If you have a debit card and are having issues using it to pay, try this trick.

Finding basic stuff One of the most overwhelming tasks when you first arrive in Madrid can be finding basic items. There are no one-stop-shop 24/7 Walmart Supercenters or 7-11s.

The good news is that what Madrid does have is actually a lot more fun and interesting.

In general, the closest thing Spain has to a Walmart or Target is El Corte Inglés, which has all the variety but none of the deals. El Corte Inglés is the largest chain of department stores in Spain, and is a Macy’s, Pottery Barn, Best Buy, Barnes and Noble, and grocery store all rolled into one. Prices are high, so try and make your purchases elsewhere, but for sheer variety and inventory it can’t be beat.

Chinos When it comes to shopping, chinos get put in a class of their own. They are the convenience stores of Spain, so named because they are almost invariably run by Chinese entrepreneurs. They sell everything from food to liquor, toiletries to electronics, and stationary to toys. With more variety and less organization than an American convenience store, they are difficult to explain to anyone who hasn’t been inside of one.

Open longer hours than most Spanish businesses, they are also often your last hope to get some emergency item at an odd hour. To find one, just ask a local wherever you happen to be.

Food Depending on your living situation, you may be doing a lot of food shopping for yourself, or very little. When you do need to shop, here’s what to look for.

Panaderías If you are in the city, you are never far from one of these wonderful bread shops. They specialize in all manner of baked goods, breads, and pastries. Most panaderías also serve hot and cold beverages, as well as bocadillos (sandwiches), so they can be a great place to stop for a snack, brunch, or merienda.

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Fruterías Small mom-and-pop type shops that sell fresh produce exclusively. Like panaderías, they are scattered throughout most neighborhoods.

Grocery stores The big names to look for are Mercadona, Carrefour, and Día. These chains provide a more familiar shopping experience, with similar products and layouts to American grocery stores. They also tend to be open later in the evening. While El Corte Inglés does have a large supermarket, like everything else it offers, it’s expensive.

Clothing Whether it’s because you want to dress more like a local, have some cash to burn, or forgot some important item at home, you will invariable have to go clothes shopping at some point during your stay. The good news is that Spain is the place to be.

It is one of the world’s largest exporters of affordable fashion, mainly through Inditex, a Spanish company that is the largest fashion conglomerate in the world. The owner and founder, Armancio Ortega, is worth $72.9 billion at last count and is currently the 2nd richest person in the world. Almost everywhere else besides North America—across South America, Africa, the Middle East, Asia, and the rest of Europe—Inditex brands like Zara, Pull and Bear, and Berksha are benchmarks of Millennial fashion.

Zara (www.zara.com) Most people have heard of Zara, even if they didn’t know it was a Spanish brand. As one of the pioneers of “fast fashion,” Zara features trendy urban wear with styles that change frequently.

Pull and Bear (www.pullandbear.com) Another Inditex brand, Pull and Bear features casual, basic clothing at a lower price point than Zara. A great place for a wide range of clothing and styles at an affordable price.

Berksha (www.berksha.com) Berksha is Pull and Bear’s slightly younger, slightly edgier cousin. Similar prices and styles to Pull and Bear, with a tendency to by more trendy.

Desigual (www.desigual.com) Founded in Barcelona, this brand channels the flamboyant colors and eclectic patterns of its home city’s favorite architect, Gaudí. It features trendy designs, intense prints, graffiti art, and splashy hues.

El Corte Inglés (www.elcorteingles.es) Spain’s largest department store, you can find it all here, although usually at a higher price point than you would at a brand store.

Stationary and school supplies Papelerías Papelerías are dedicated stationary stores that carry everything related to school. Do a google search or ask a local for the one closest to you. Carlin is large chain of papelerías throughout Spain.

El Corte Inglés As with everything else in Madrid, if you can’t find it anywhere else or are short on time, go to El Corte Inglés.

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Pharmacies Pharmacies in Madrid are everywhere and are generally small shops clearly marked with a green cross. A “24” in the middle means the pharmacy is open 24 hours.

Mail You can do many wonderful things in Spain. Sending mail or packages quickly and easily is not one of them. Spain is notorious for a bureaucratic sluggishness in almost everything, and the government run CORREOS (equivalent to the USPS) is no exception. Unlike the United States, there is also no good private alternative such as UPS or FedEx. Sending mail If you need to send mail or a package, the best way to do it is use the locator on the CORREOS website (www.correos.es) or ask a local to find the nearest office and then go there yourself. Always take ID with you, and prepare to be there a while. For international packages, be prepared to fill out additional documentation including lists of the items contained, approximate weight, and value.

Receiving mail Generally, receiving mail happens pretty painlessly. Receiving packages, however, especially from out of the country, can be a massive headache. In the best case scenario, you will receive a slip in the mail from CORREOS informing you that you have received a package and will then have to go to the CORREOS office nearest to you to pick it up (the slip will give you the address of the office where the package was delivered). In the worst case scenario, you will receive a slip in the mail from the aduana (Spanish customs) informing you that your package has been held up, and will have to make a trip out to the customs office by the Barajas Airport to claim the package personally.

Where to go if your package is withheld —Edificio Administraciones Públicas, Centro de Carga Aérea, Avenida Aeropuerto de Barajas, s/n, 28042 Madrid, Spain Make sure to take ID, money, the slip you received in the mail, and budget at least a couple of hours. Ride the metro or bus to Barajas Airport, and from the terminal you can either take a taxi or walk (about 10 minutes) to the office.

Writing an e-mail or letter in Spanish Below are some tips for how to properly write an e-mail or letter in Spanish.

• Place a colon, not a comma, after the salutation.

• Ex: Querido Robert: v. Dear Robert, • For correspondence with close friends, an affectionate salutation such as querido/a is appropriate.

• For business correspondence, begin all letters with Estimado/a. Literally “esteemed,” it functions the same as “dear” in English but is more formal.

• Ex: Estimada Karen: v. Dear Karen, To end a letter to a friend, a variety of salutations can be used.

• • Un saludo, “regards” • Un abrazo, literally “a hug” • Un fuerte abrazo, literally “a strong hug” 9

• Un beso, literally “a kiss,” but very familiar • Afectuosamente, “affectionately” To end a letter for business correspondence, use Atentamente, literally “attentively” • and the Spanish equivalent of “sincerely.”

Must haves You’ll want these.

Gear • A backpack or other piece of luggage that meets the Ryanair size specifications of 55cm x 40cm x 20cm (22in x 16in x 8in).

Recommendations: Osprey Porter 46 A front, panel—loading pack, which means you have easy access to all contents of the bag in one big central compartment—no unpacking the whole thing to get the stuff at the bottom. The padded shoulder straps and a hip belt stow away in the front panel, and compression straps are useful for synching down larger loads. This was the only piece of luggage I used while living in Spain and traveling Europe.

Patagonia MLC Another panel—loading pack, this bag can be carried as a backpack or a duffel bag.

Adapters for Spanish electrical outlets • • A portable charger for your smartphone Apps • WhatsApp • Telegram • Spanishdict • MetroMadrid • goBus Madrid EMT • goTrain Madrid EMT • Skyscanner • Ryanair • BlaBlaCar Books • Lonely Planet Madrid. A pocket-sized reference guide to all the best Madrid has to offer, organized by neighborhood as well as “best of” lists. You can rely on Google searches, friends, and chance, or you can buy this book and make sure you don’t miss out on something truly awesome.

• Lonely Planet Spain. An invaluable resource in planning your travels around Spain and helping you get the most out of your visits. Lonely Planet is still the best travel guide on the market.

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Part II: Getting Around Madrid has one of the best public transportation systems in the world. The three main systems are the Metro, EMT buses, and the Renfe cercanía trains. Visit www.crtm.es for all things related. Madrid is organized into Zones A-E, like concentric circles that move outward from the city center. These zones determine the price of the ticket you are buying.

Metro (www.madridmetro.es) The metro system in Madrid is among the best in Europe—clean, modern, spacious, and punctual. It is by far the best way to get around town, and is a joy to use.

Enjoy the convenience, as well as the chance to observe such a diverse cross-section of madrileños.

Tickets You have four options: 1) Buy individual trip tickets. This is the most expensive option over time.

2) Buy a 10-trip ticket. Exactly what is sounds, this is a good idea if you are staying for a day or two.

3) Get an abono turístico (tourist card). For a set amount of days, this card allow unlimited travel on all forms of transportation, including the EMT bus system and cercanias (trains). Tickets are available for 1, 2, 3, 5, and 7 days.

4) Get a regular abono (metro card). This is by far the best deal if you are staying in Madrid for any length of time. For a monthly fee, this card allows you unlimited travel within Madrid on all forms of transportation. If you are under 26, you qualify for a joven (youth) card, and a 30-day abono for Zone A will cost a mere €20. If you are over 26, prices start at €54.60 for Zone A. These cards can then be recharged at almost any metro station each month.

Buying a metro card (www.tarjetatransportepublico.es/) Go to the above website. It will walk you through what kind of card you want and your age range. It will then ask you the type of ID you have and the document number on the ID. Finally, it will ask you if you would prefer to do an online application or make an appointment. Making an appointment is the quickest way. If you choose this, it will walk you through selecting a time at one of the many locations around Madrid (usually large metro stations) where you can do this.

Getting around Metro stops are very well marked. It’s almost impossible to go a few blocks in Madrid without seeing the characteristic stairs leading below the street overhung with the red, white, and blue Metro sign. Once inside, everything is clearly marked and color coded. Most stations also have a small office where you can ask for directions or other assistance.

MetroMadrid A great app that not only provides you with a map of the metro, but also enables you to search the nearest metro stop to you by location, as well as to find the best routes by station or by street location, complete with estimated travel time.

Etiquete Use common sense. In addition: 11

• If you are a man, always offer your seat to a woman or elderly person.

• Most metros have seats specially marked for the elderly or infirm. Don’t sit in these.

• If the metro is crowded and you are near the door, be aware of people trying to get out behind you. You may have to briefly step out and then step back in.

Safety Especially during crowded times, the metro is one of the best places for pickpockets. Protect your valuables by following these basic guidelines: • Never put anything valuable in your back pockets.

• Place all valuables in your front pockets. If it is crowded and you are standing up, keep your hands in your pockets.

• Never place valuables in the outer pockets of bags or purses.

• Hold any bags such as backpack or purses in front of you. Unless you have nothing in them you are worried about losing, avoid carrying them on your back, to your side, or setting them down.

EMT Bus (www.emtmadrid.es) The bus system in Madrid is another great way to get around, although it can be more confusing to use than the metro. In general, buses are good for longer trips that take you farther out of the city where the metro gets more sparse and infrequent, as well as late at night when the metro is closed. Check out the recently updated website which is now much easier to use.

Getting around Bus stops are clearly marked with a tower listing the lines that stop and their routes. Each stop has a 4-digit code that can be used to reference it when searching routes online or in apps. goBus Madrid EMT A fantastic app that simplifies what can otherwise seem quite complicated.

It has a live map of every bus stop in Madrid. Zoom in on your area and click on a bus stop. It will give you a list of all lines that stop there as well as a live countdown until when the next bus leaves. If you click on a particular line, a map will pop up with every other stop along that line.

24 Hora Exprés Aeropuerto (www.emtmadrid.es/Aeropuerto) The cheapest way to get to the Barajas airport, this service runs 24 hours, leaving every 15 minutes during the day and every 35 minutes at night. It costs only €5, which must be paid in cash when you board. The largest bills accepted are €20. This service is especially useful for getting to Barajas for an early morning flight. Daytime buses (6:00–23:30) leave from the Atocha station.

Nighttime buses (23:30—5:35) leave from Cibeles. The trip takes 30-40 minutes.

Renfe Cercanías Yet another way to get around, the cercanías are commuter trains run by the national train company Renfe that serve Madrid and the greater metropolitan area. They are generally better for longer distance trips, or to get quickly between major hubs of the city, since stops are much fewer and farther between. Cercanías are especially useful for getting to the suburbs of Madrid.

Getting around 12

Within central Madrid, the cercanías stop at major hubs such as Sol and Atocha. Like the metro, they have clearly marked lines and maps. goTrain Madrid Another great app by the makers of the goBus app. Just select your origin and destination and it will tell you all possible routes along with estimated travel times. It also has a map of the cercanías.

Taxi Taxis abound in Madrid. They are white cars clearly marked with a red stripe on each side of the vehicle. While they can be quick and convenient, they are still the most expensive option for transportation. Although some taxis accept cards, this is the exception, not the rule. Always carry cash if you plan to use a taxi.

Walking With all the great options for public transportation, it’s easy to forget that one of the best ways to get around Madrid is still walking. Budget some more time to get where you are going and walk. You never know what you’ll discover.

Part III: Cultural Literacy The most important thing you can do in Madrid is to immerse yourself as much as possible in the culture—through conversations and experiences with locals, music, movies, TV, radio, sports, festivals, and the host of other opportunities there are to soak up life in the city. The more you do this, the more you will understand and appreciate the culture and life of Madrid. Knowing some basic information at the outset, however, will help provide context to your interactions and experiences as well as allow you to impress locals with your knowledge and interest.

Basic Differences Here are some of the basic cultural differences that will require some adjustment.

Meeting and Greeting This is one of first differences you will notice when you arrive in Spain and begin meeting people. The biggest difference between greeting in Spain and North America is the concept of dos besos or the two kisses that are given in a variety of social situations. The information below applies both to saying “hello” and “goodbye.” Also bear in mind that while often used in the US, albeit without any clear rules, hugs are almost never given in Spain unless between close friends or relatives, and even then it is rare. They are certainly never used when meeting someone for the first time.

Rules for greeting Men When greeting men: Use a traditional handshake when meeting for the first time. When greeting friends, it’s very common to do the combination handshake/one-armed hug.

When greeting women: Dos besos.

Women Dos besos all around, with both men and other women.

The dos besos technique

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Place your hand lightly on the side of the person’s arm (it’s weird if you do it with both arms dangling awkwardly at your sides) and then simply touch your cheek to his or hers, first left, then right. You don’t actually kiss the person, but it is common to make the kissing sound. It may sound strange reading this, but it feels normal to do it. The above rules apply in all informal situations. If you find yourself greeting someone in a formal situation, however, such as a job interview or meeting a person of importance, both men and women should always use a handshake.

What to say Meeting for the first time The most common verbal greeting when meeting someone for the first time is encantado/a (depending on if you are male or female, respectively), short for the phase encantado de conocerte (“nice to meet you”). You may also use the longer version. Although there are other ways, this is by far the best and most widely used.

If you have already met If you already know the person, it’s up to you, but generally you’ll use ¡Hola! (“Hi!”), ¡Buenos días/buenas tardes! (“Good morning/good afternoon), depending on the time of day, or ¿Qué tal? (“What’s up?”).

Time Not only do Spaniards run on a different clock than you are used to, but there are nuances to the way they refer to time you should be aware of.

Referencing time In writing Time is always referred to using the 24-hour clock in Spain. There is no am or pm, so 5:00pm becomes 17:00.

When speaking Spaniards may refer to time using either the 24-hour or 12-hour clock.

Hence, 6:00pm may be referred to as las dieciocho (18:00 hours) or las seis (6 o’clock). In the latter case, a qualifier such as de la mañana (in the morning) or de la tarde (in the afternoon) is added if it is not already clear from the context of the conversation.

In general, the concepts of “morning,” “noon,” and “night” are different than in North America.

• El mediodía (midday) refers to the beginning of the lunch and siesta period, which begins around 2:00pm. Hence, if someone tells you to meet them around mediodía, they mean around lunch time or 2:00pm, not noon.

• La mañana is any time before mediodía.

• La tarde (afternoon) is any time after mediodía until about 8pm or so.

• La noche (evening/night) general refers to any time after about 8pm.

Work schedules Like everything else in Spain, the día laboral (workday) happens later. While Spain is increasingly moving towards a more North American work schedule, especially in the larger cities, this later work schedule is still the reality for most Spaniards. Work usually begins at between 9am and 10am, and goes until 2:00pm, when people break for lunch and the traditional siesta. Work resumes between 4:00pm and 5:00pm, and 14

then because of the siesta often goes until between 7pm and 9pm. When I was living with a Spanish family, it was typical for both parents to leave for work around 10am and not return until 9pm. This basic schedule helps explain the differences in references to times as well as the meal schedule.

The siesta A cornerstone of Spanish culture, the siesta is one of my favorite parts of the day.

The siesta originated in Spain’s agrarian past, when field workers would rest during the hottest part of the day and then return energized to work much later into the evening. It persists to this day in businesses large and small, which shut down between 2:00pm and 4:00pm or 5:00pm. Restaurants and bars take their siesta later, not closing until the end of the lunch rush and then reopening around dinner time. While some business such as large supermarkets will stay open, don’t plan on getting anything done.

While the siesta is still a large part of Spanish life, the future of the siesta as it has existed until now remains to be determined. Although it traditionally provided several hours for families to eat, rest, and socialize, modern life and commutes mean that often most of the siesta is used for transport to and from work, and is more a hinderance than a help to families trying to juggle work, school, and children. As a result, many Spaniards are in favor of abolishing the siesta in favor of a more modern workday schedule, not only to increase productivity but also to allow parents to return earlier from work to spend time with their families. In April 2016, the prime minister of Spain announced several proposals to legislate a shorter lunch break and earlier closing times for businesses. At the writing of this guide, these proposals were still being debated.

Whatever happens in Spain’s congress, however, the siesta is as much a state of mind as it is a time of day. More than any other artifact of Spanish civilization, it captures the dedication to leisure that permeates every aspect of Spanish culture and makes Spain such a wonderful place to be. Whether it’s two hours or ten minutes, learn from Spaniards how to regularly step away from the pressures of work or school and enjoy the simple pleasures of life.

Meals Meals are integral to Spanish life, but just like so many other things in Spain, they run on a different schedule than you are used to.

• El desayuno (breakfast) Breakfast in Spain is the least important meal of the day and traditionally very sparse. Often, it consists only of a cup of coffee or other beverage and some kind of snack, such as a pastry or pan con tomate, a tomato puree spread on toasted bread with olive oil. Depending on your morning schedule, breakfast will usually happen between 7:00am and 9:00am.

• La comida (lunch) Lunch is the largest and most important meal of the day, and usually consists of several courses. It takes place between 2:00pm and 3:00pm, at the beginning of the siesta period.

• La merienda This is small meal or snack that takes place in the early evening, usually between 5:00pm and 7:00pm to hold you over until dinner. If eating at home, this 15

could consist of anything, and if eating out, if will most likely consist of a drink and a few tapas.

• La cena (dinner) Dinner in Spain takes place between 9:00pm and 10:30pm. Especially in the summer months or during holidays, Spaniards may sit down to eat as late as 12:00am! Dinner is usually similar to lunch, but lighter.

Tipping In general, tipping is optional.

Restaurants Most Spaniards tip, but it is not universal. Many Spaniards will leave small change, up to 1 per person. Anything above this is considered generous.

Taxis Tipping is optional, but it is customary to round up to the nearest euro.

Bars It is rare to leave a tip.

History Spanish History The following are a few key dates and periods that define Spain’s history. It's important to understand them because they continue to be discussed and referenced to this day, and you will run into them, whether in a conversation with a local, a joke on TV, or on a stroll through the Prado.

• 1492 1492 was a big year for Spain, and not just because Columbus discovered America. 1492 also marked the end of the Reconquista, a 770-year struggle between the Moors and the Christians that began at the beginning of the 8th century with the initial Islamic conquest of Spain. All this ended in 1492 when the Christian armies of King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabel I retook Granada, the last Moorish stronghold in southern Spain. In the aftermath, all Moors and Jews were persecuted by the Spanish Inquisition and forced to either convert or be expelled.

The influence of the moros (Moors) is still seen and felt across Spain but especially in the South, through history, architecture, food, and language.

Hapsburg Spain (1516-1700) • After the death of Ferdinand, Spain came to be ruled by the Hapsburg dynasty, which at the time stretched from the modern-day Czech Republic to Portugal.

The Hapsburgs presided over the conquest and colonization of the New World, which also coincided with the Siglo de Oro or Golden Age of Spain, a period of flourishing in the arts and literature which gave rise to such talents as Diego Velázquez and El Greco in the arts and Miguel de Cervantes and Lope de Vega in literature and drama.

Bourbon Spain (1700—1811) • In 1700, the death of the childless Charles II, the last Hapsburg, set off a war of succession in the already unstable political climate of Europe. When the War of the Spanish Succession ended in 1714, King Philip V, of the French House of 16

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Bourbon, came to rule the Spanish monarchy. The Bourbons presided over La Ilustración (the Enlightenment) in Spain such as it was, with a focus on modernizing Spain’s government and institutions.

Spanish War of Independence (1808—1814) In 1807 Napoleon invaded Spain, destroyed the existing Spanish administration, and installed a puppet government. Beginning with the infamous Dos de Mayo Uprising in Madrid, the Spanish began a war for independence. For over the next years, a fractured Spanish government fought each other as well as Napoleon with assistance from the Portuguese and English. In 1810, the Spanish administration reconstituted into the Cádiz Cortes, a government in exile. In 1812, they established the Spanish Constitution of 1812, a landmark of European liberalism that abolished the Inquisition and absolute monarchy in favor of constitutional monarchy, as well as establishing things like freedom of the press and universal male suffrage.

Reaction, Republicanism, and Restoration (1814—1931) With the defeat of Napoleon in 1814, King Philip VII returned and immediately abolished the Spanish constitution and reestablished absolute monarchy. What followed was almost a century of ceaseless civil war and social turmoil. Severely weakened at home, Spain began losing its colonies abroad, and the defeat of the Spanish in 1898 by the United States in the Spanish—American War was the coup de grâce on a fading superpower that had been in decline for almost a century. With the last vestiges of empire stripped away, Spain continued its spiral of economic stagnation and social turmoil.

Spanish Civil War (1936—1939) In 1936, the last and biggest civil war Spain would see broke out between the Republicans, who were loyal to the democratic, left—leaning Second Spanish Republic, and the Nationalists, a conservative, anti-liberal group led by General Francisco Franco. The war tore Spain apart, and became a symbolic battleground for the struggle between fascism and democracy. In 1936, the Nationalists won, and Franco became dictator of Spain.

Franco (1939—1975) Franco’s dictatorship was characterized by authoritarianism, nationalism, and Catholicism. He repressed left—leaning and liberal ideas, sought to establish a single national identity by repressing the cultural diversity of Spain, and promoted a very conservative Catholicism. Under Franco’s rule, Spain languished socially and economically.

Contemporary Spain (1978—present) With Franco’s death in 1975, the monarchy was restored, and then in 1978 the Spanish Constitution of 1978 was ratified, which forms the basis of Spain’s modern democratic government. Freed from the shackles of the Franco regime, Spain entered a period of rapid economic and social development as it pulled itself out of years of dictatorship and into the modern world.

March 11, 2004 The date of the infamous Madrid train bombings, the worst terrorist attack in Spain’s history which killed almost 200 people and injured close to 1,800. On that morning, ten IEDs were detonated on four different cercanía trains near the 17

Atocha station at the center of Madrid. Since referred to as “11-M” (once M), this event holds the same significance for Spaniards as 9/11 does for Americans.

A brief history of Madrid Madrid was first established as an outpost called Mayrit by the Moors at the end of the 9th century on the banks of the Manzanares River. Because of its strategic location in the center of the country, it changed hands several times during the Reconquista. In 1085 Alfonso VI of Castile y León conquered the city and established what would become modern-day Madrid. In 1561, Madrid was chosen as the capital of Spain by Felipe II, but was still little more than a large settlement. Over the next two hundred years, Madrid grew into a true European capital under the rule of the Hapsburgs. In 1808, during the Dos de Mayo Uprising, Madrid played a key role in the fight against the occupying forces of Napoleon. While the uprising ended in a massacre of madrileños, it provided the spark for the Spanish War of Independence. Over the next hundred years, Madrid was always at the center of the tumultuous conflicts and political upheaval of the 19th century and finally the Spanish Civil War. After Franco’s death, it become the center of Spain’s transition from autocratic dictatorship and conservative Catholicism to modern liberal democracy. The pent-up energy and repression of the Franco years exploded in a more than decade-long bacchanal of drugs, sex, and rock ‘n roll which become known as la movida madrileña (literally “the Madrid scene”), as madrileños took to the streets to celebrate their new freedom and experience the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s all at once. Presided over by Enrique Tierno Galván, an aging Socialist professor and Madrid’s most popular mayor every, la movida was also characterized by an explosion of creativity in the arts, film, music, and fashion. In many ways, the spirit of la movida persists in Madrid to this day, and helps explain the pulsating rhythm that makes the city such a fun place to be.

Popular Culture Politics Politics in Spain is a topic of constant debate and discussion, and is at the forefront of every madrileños mind. In general, madrileños tend to be very opinionated when in comes to politics, and the government and politicians are favorite targets of criticism and humor. With so many different political factions, geographic regions, and cultures, political discourse in Spain is always robust, and the economic turmoil since the Great Recession of 2008 has only heightened the pitch of an already rigorous debate. Frequent topics of discussion include economic concerns such as unemployment and austerity measures, inequality, governmental corruption, and women’s rights.

The Spanish System of Government Spain is a parliamentary monarchy, which means a representative, constitutional democracy in which the monarch is head of state and the prime minister is head of government. What this means in practice today is that the king functions as a figurehead, representative of the state, and diplomat, but does not exercise much real power. Executive power is exercised by the presidente del gobierno (the “president of the Government” or prime minister) and his cabinet. In practice, the prime minister has 18

been the leader of the party that obtained the largest amount of seats in congress during the most recent election. Legislative power in Spain is exercised by the Cortes Generals (General Courts), a two-house parliament that consists of the Congreso de Diputados (Congress of Deputies) and the Senado (Senate). Elections take place every four years. The judiciary is independent of both the executive and legislative branches, administering justice through judges and magistrates. The Supreme Court of Spain is the highest court in the land, the final word in all matters except constitutional questions, which are the jurisdiction of a separate court, the Constitutional Court.

Political Climate Spain is a multi-party system, but two parties—the PP and PSOE—have been predominant over the last several decades. Recently, however, the social and economic turmoil of the Great Recession combined with a growing frustration at the perceived incompetence and corruption of the PP and PSOE have lead to the creation of several new parties and political movements, most notably Podemos.

Political Parties • Spanish Socialist Workers Party (PSOE) While it began as a Marxist socialist party that arose during the industrial revolution to defend the rights of the working class, the PSOE as it exists today is much tamer, and could be characterized as center-left. In general, the PSOE favors more progressive abortion laws, higher taxes for the rich, the expansion of social programs, more relaxed immigration policies, and the secularization of schools and other public institutions.

• People’s Party (PP) Spain’s conservative party, the PP is a center-right party that is generally more socially and economically conservative. At least in principle, the PP supports stricter abortion laws, stricter immigration policies, is not in favor of the expansion of LGBT rights, favors less spending on welfare programs, and supports the Catholic Church. The PP became the dominant party in Spanish politics in the 2011 elections.

• Podemos Podemos, started in 2014 by the Spanish political scientist Pablo Iglesias, was the outgrowth of the 15-M Movement which protested the high unemployment, inequality, and subsequent austerity measures caused the recession, as well as corruption in government, the banking system, and capitalism in general. In the 2015 elections, Podemos won over 60 seats in the Congress of Deputies, an impressive feat for a brand-new party, and in so doing so eliminated the PP’s majority, creating the need for a coalition government.

They are now a major force in Spanish political discussions.

• Ciudadanos A center-left party that started in Catalonia, its platform centers around its opposition to Catalan nationalism.

• Regional parties In addition to the parties above, regional parties such as Convergence and Union (CiU), a nationalist party from Catalonia dedicated to Catalan independence continue to play an important part in Spanish politics.

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Royalty Spain is still a parliamentary monarchy, and as such continues to have a royal family. The role of La corona, as it is called, is primarily one of diplomacy. They lend their influence to various charitable causes, as well as matters of national interest.

Although it has its detractors, the monarchy is supported by a large majority of Spaniards. The members of the royal family are some of Spain’s biggest celebrities and most familiar faces.

Public perception In Spain, King Juan Carlos I is seen as having been instrumental in Spain’s transition from dictatorship to democracy, a service which endeared him and the monarchy to the nation and for which Spaniards still give him credit. Public perception of the monarchy in Spain is still generally favorable, although several scandals during the years of the recession brought harsh criticism. An infamous incident that is still parodied to this day involved a picture of King Juan Carlos I on a hunting trip in Botswana with a dead elephant. Other scandals involved allegations of money laundering my members of the royal family and other missteps.

King Juan Carlos I has since taken measures to restore public confidence, including adopting austerity measures, helping broker some major international deals for Spanish corporations, and apologizing for the elephant hunting incident. Finally, in June of 2014, King Juan Carlos I abdicated the throne in favor of his more popular and less tarnished son, now reigning as King Felipe VI. The Royal Family King Juan Carlos I (age 78). The King of Spain from 1975 to 2014, he has been the face of the Spanish monarchy and saw Spain through its transition to democracy.

Queen Sofía (age 77). Born a Greek princess, she is the wife of Juan Carlos I and mother of Felipe VI. King Felipe VI (age 48). The only son of Juan Carlos I, Felipe became the reigning King of Spain when his father abdicated the throne in 2014.

Queen Letizia (age 43). Not of royal blood, Letizia was a journalist and news anchor before her and Felipe fell in love. They were married in 2004.

Leonor, Princess of Asturias (age 10). The eldest daughter of King Felipe VI and Queen Letizia, Princess Leonor is first in line to the Spanish throne.

Infanta Sofía (age 9). Princess Leonor’s younger sister.

Sports Spaniards enjoy a wide variety of sports, and over the last decade or so have been very successful on the international stage, particularly with Formula One, cycling, tennis, basketball, and of course soccer.

Fútbol (soccer) Far and away the most popular sport in Spain, the importance of fútbol to Spanish life, culture, and even national identity cannot be overstated. La Liga or Primera División (the Spanish League) is one of the best in the world, in which 20 clubs compete. Each year, the bottom three teams are relegated to Segunda División while the top three Segunda División teams are called up. At a national level, Spain has a

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formidable team. In 2010, the Spanish National Team won the FIFA World Cup, the first time in their history they had done so and a moment of great national pride for Spain.

If you are unfamiliar with the basic rules of soccer, take some time to familiarize yourself before you go.

Important Teams Real Madrid City: Madrid Stadium: Santiago Bernabéu Nickname: Los Blancos Home kit: White jerseys and shorts Founded in 1902, Real Madrid is considered one of the most successful football clubs of all time.vIt holds the record for La Liga titles at 32, as well 11 European (Champions League) titles, among many others. It is also one of the richest soccer clubs, currently holding the title of most valuable sports team in the world and well as the highest earning sports team in the world. Across the globe, it is one of the most widely supported soccer clubs. Cristiano Ronald, one of the club’s superstars, is a household name in most parts of the world.

FC Barcelona City: Barcelona Stadium: Camp Nou Nickname: Barça Home kit: Jerseys with red and blue horizontal stripes and red shorts Commonly know as Barcelona or simply Barça (pronounced BAR sa), is another juggernaut not only nationally but internationally. It holds the record for second most La Liga titles behind Real Madrid, and together these two clubs have dominated Spanish football. Leonel Messi, the team’s most famous superstar, is another household name across the world.

Atlético de Madrid City: Madrid Stadium: Vicente Calderón Nickname: Atleti; Los Colchoneros; Los Rojiblancos Home kit: Jerseys with red and white vertical stripes and blue shorts Atlético is the second best Spanish club in terms of European (Champions League) titles, the third most successful Spanish club behind Real Madrid and Barcelona. In terms of La Liga titles, it ranks 4th. Although it has only a fraction of the budget teams like Real Madrid and Barcelona do, Atlético is a consistent contender for best Spanish club, in recent years winning several La Liga titles as well as being a force in European competitions. In 2014, Atlético de Madrid met Real Madrid in the finals of the UEFA Champions League, where they were defeated in overtime.

Important Rivalries • El Clásico The most important rivalry in Spanish football, El Clásico refers to any game between Real Madrid and Barcelona. As the two top teams in Spanish football, they are constantly battling for the top spot, but this rivalry goes much deeper than sports. From the beginning, these two clubs have been seen as representatives of their two rival

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regions of Spain, Catalonia and Castile, and the political and cultural tensions that exist between them to this day.

• El derbi madrileño El derbi refers to the fierce rivalry that exists between Real Madrid and Atlético de Madrid, and that has its roots the very different identities of the two clubs. Originally, the supporters of Real Madrid came from the middle and upper class, while support for Atlético came from the working class. The Santiago Bernabéu is located in the posh neighborhood of Chamartín in northern Madrid, while the Vicente Calderón is located in the south, in the working class neighborhood of Arganzuela. Real Madrid is the club of establishment, money, and privilege, while Atlético is characterized by scarce resources but all the indignation and rebellion of a downtrodden working class. Every time Real Madrid and Atlético meet, it is class warfare all over again.

Basketball Although nowhere near the level of soccer, basketball has been growing rapidly in popularity in Spain, especially with the younger generations. Real Madrid and Barcelona both have basketball teams that have won international club championships.

Some Spanish basketball players such as Pau Gasol and Serge Ibaka play in the NBA. On the international stage, the men’s national basketball team has performed well, winning several championships over the last few years.

Bullfighting Perhaps one of the most stereotypical images of Spain, bullfighting is an iconic artifact of Spanish culture. It is also a hotly debated topic among Spaniards. I learned this the first time my host family invited me over to a family dinner with their relatives.

Young people in Spain are overwhelmingly opposed to the practice, criticizing it as cruel and anachronistic, while some from older generations defend it as a beautiful sport and a central part of Spanish culture and heritage. Objections to bullfighting are not limited to millennials, however. The government of Catalonia went so far as to outlaw bullfighting in that province in 2010. With these trends in place, the crowds at bullfights get older every year, but bullfighting is still very much alive in many parts of Spain, including Madrid. If you want to see a bullfight, the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas in east Madrid is one of the most important bullrings in the world. The bullfighting season runs from the Festival of San Isidro in May through October.

TV TV in Spain forms a cornerstone of Spanish pop culture, and is an important part of the daily life of most Spaniards. It is also a great way to not only keep up-to-date with the latest news and shows but to accelerate your language acquisition. In Spain, there are five main TV channels. The El Mundo newspaper curates an easy-to-use TV guide for all major Spanish channels at www.elmundo.es/television/programacion-tv/.

La 1 The flagship television channel of the public broadcaster Radiotelevisión Española (RTVE), it includes a wide variety of programming, from news to sports and entertainment shows. Notable programs include:

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• Telediario 1 and 2. The most-watched news program in Spain, these one-hour segments from 3:00pm to 4:00pm and 9:00pm to 10:00pm, respectively, report on the latest happenings in Spain and around the world and are pillars of Spanish TV. • El Tiempo TVE 1 and 2. These short 10-minute weather segments come on at 4:15pm and then again at 10:00pm and are staples of most Spanish households.

Antena 3 A privately-owned channel, Antena 3 has a similarly broad variety of programming as La 1. Notable programs include: • Antena 3 Noticias 1 and 2. Antena 3’s 30-45 minute news segments, at 3:00pm and 9:00pm, respectively.

• Antena 3 Deportes 1 and 2. 10-15 minute sport segments that always follow the news segment and give a rundown of the day’s highlights from the world of sports.

• Los Simpson. Every day for one hour starting at 2:00pm, Antena 3 has reruns of The Simpsons, still one of the most popular TV shows in Spain.

• El hormiguero 3.0. Hosted by Pablo Motos, El hormiguero is one of the most popular talk shows in Spain, with a live audience and a show focusing on comedy, science, and high-profile guest interviews, including many Hollywood A-listers when they are in town.

Cuatro A commercial channel that focuses on entertainment and broadcasts a variety of Spanish and American TV shows.

Telecinco Another commercial channel that focuses on entertainment. Notable shows include: • Supervivientes. The Spanish version of survivor, and one of Spain’s most popular reality TV shows.

• Mujeres y hombres y viceversa. Another reality TV show in which contestants try and find a romantic partner. A cornerstone of the collection of programs aptly named telebasura (junk TV).

• Cámbiame. A reality TV show where female contestants are selected to undergo an extreme look makeover.

La Sexta Another privately owned channel, with a focus on humor and entertainment. It also heavily features American shows and sports programming. News programming on La Sexta tends to be satirical in nature. Notable programs include: • El Intermedio. A satirical news program hosted by Spanish comedian El Gran Wyoming, this left-leaning show is the closest Spain comes to The Daily Show.

Radio Spanish Radio is one of the best ways to keep your brain in language-learning mode. My favorite way to consume it was to listen to it first thing in the morning while eating breakfast. Just hearing it in the background helps you start to absorb the grammar and pronunciation of the language, and it’s still one of the most fun ways to listen to music.

• Cadena Ser—Radio Madrid (FM 105.4)

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Cadena Ser is Spain’s premier radio network. Its programs cover everything from politics to sports, comedy to fashion, film reviews to shopping tips. Political coverage on Cadena Ser is more left-leaning and tends to support the PSOE. • Los 40 (FM 93.9) A spinoff of Cadena Ser, featuring the 40 Principales or Top 40 songs interspersed with short comedy and entertainment programs.

• Cadena 100 (FM 99.5) Another great music channel, Cadena 100 provides the best variety and 45-minute blocks of uninterrupted music.

Swearing Spaniards love to swear, and like a lot of other things that are more taboo here in America, it’s simply not as big of a deal. They also have some of the most creative and colorful palabrotas you will ever hear. Put simply, no one knows how to swear quite like a Spaniard. Whether or not you decide to incorporate these words into your growing Spanish vocabulary is up to you, but it’s important to know the phrases they won't teach you in school but that you are sure to hear on a daily basis.

1. Mierda. Literally “shit.” As in English, it can be used either as an interjection or as a noun.

• ¡Mierda! Shit!

• Este tiempo es una mierda. This weather is really shitty.

2. Joder. Literally “fuck” or “to fuck,” joder can be used as either an interjection or a verb. It is not quite as strong as “fuck” is in English, and is used much more frequently. Children or others might soften joder by pronouncing it jooe, or by saying jolines, another variant, instead.

• ¡Joder! Fuck!/Damn it!

• No me jodas. Don’t fuck with me/You’ve got to be kidding me.

• Lo has jodido. You’ve fucked it up.

3. Cabrón. Literally means “male goat,” it is used similar to “asshole” or “bastard.”

• Mi jefe es un cabrón. My boss is an asshole.

4. Gilipollas. Can be variously translated as “dumbass,” “jerk,” “twat,” or “dickhead.” A variant of the word, gilipolleces, means “bullshit” or something that is just plain stupid.

• Este gilipollas no puede hacer nada bien. This dumbass can’t do anything right.

• No paró de contarme gilipolleces. “He didn’t stop telling me bullshit.”

• Este ley es una gilipollez. “This law is bloody stupid.”

5. Puta. Literally “bitch” or “whore,” it can be used in the same way as its English equivalent. Alternatively, puta can be used as an adjective, in which case it becomes analogous to “fucking” or “damn.” Finally, the phrase de puta madre ironically refers to something truly fantastic.

• ¡Eres un hijo de puta! You’re a son of a bitch!

• ¡El puto coche no se arranca! The damn car won’t start!

• Ese concierto era de puta madre. That concert was fucking amazing.

6. Cojones. Literally “balls,” cojones can be used in variety of ways.

• Ese macho tiene cojones. That dude has balls.

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• ¡No me toques los cojones! Don’t fuck with me!

• ¡Estoy hasta los cojones con tus gilipolleces! I’ve had it with your bullshit!

• Me toca los cojones que digas eso. It really bothers me that you say that.

7. Coño. Literally “pussy” or “cunt,” coño can be used as a vulgar anatomical reference, an interjection, or an adverb.

• ¡Coño! Shit!/Damn!

• Qué coño haces? What the hell are you doing?

8. Culo. Literally “ass,” it can be used as an anatomical reference alone or as part of a larger phrase. Unlike coño, culo is not nearly as vulgar and is often used in normal conversation to refer to one’s derrière.

• Tiene un buen culo. She has a nice ass/butt.

• ¡A tomar por culo!/¡Que te den! (por culo). Both phrases literally mean “I hope they give it to you in the ass” but are used like “fuck you” or “fuck off” in English.

9. Hostia. Literally means “host” or the holy bread of communion. One of the most common swear words in Spanish, it can alternatively be used as in interjection or as an augmentative in either a positive or negative way.

• ¡Hostia! Shit!/Fuck!

• Ella es más fea que la hostia. She is ugly as fuck.

• ¡Este coche es la hostia! This car is the shit!

10. Me cago en… Literally “I shit on…” This phrase can be combined with a myriad of different words, depending on the desired effect. In general, the more religious references and family members you invoke, the stronger the profanity becomes.

Depending on the context, such a phrase may be used either as a very strong interjection or a direct insult. The following are two examples, and they aren’t even the most offensive ones.

• Me cago en la hostia. I shit on the host. (interjection) • Me cago en tu puta madre. I shit on your bitch of a mother. (direct insult) 11. Follar. Literally means “to fuck,” but in the sexual way.

• Ella quiere follarlo. She wants to fuck him.

• Que te follen. Get fucked.

Part IV: Language Acquisition If you are reading this book, it most likely means you are going to Madrid for an extended period of time, and if that is the case then one of your goals if it isn't already should be to learn Spanish. Not only is it a fun and rewarding process that will enrich your experience immeasurably, but as the second-most spoken language after Mandarin Chinese, Spanish is an incredibly useful language to know.

The great secret about living abroad in Madrid or anywhere else for that matter is that you will learn as much or as little Spanish as you decide to. Too many people go to Madrid thinking that they will learn the language simply by being there. As a result, they have no clear goals as to what they want to achieve and spend their time doing things that sabotage their efforts to learn Spanish.

Don’t settle for mediocrity. Decide that you are going to become fluent in Spanish before you leave, and define what fluent means. The DELE exams offered by the Spanish government provides an objective benchmark of your level of skill. With clear 25

goals and a commitment to do what is necessary, it is completely possible to go from not speaking a word of Spanish to full proficiency in a semester and fluency in a year.

By the time I left Spain nine months after I landed in the country, I was fluent. I later took and passed the DELE C1 level exam. If fluency is your goal, here is what you need to do.

Before you go If you are going to study abroad and your program provides the option, do a homestay, where you live with a madrileño family in their home. It is one of the single best ways to accelerate your language acquisition and make the most of your experience. Not only will you be more immersed in Spanish culture and forced to speak Spanish more consistently, but it will lessen the temptation to spend all of your time with other English speakers. You will be in constant contact with people who you can converse with, who can give you advice and recommendations, and who can create experiences for you that would be impossible otherwise.

If doing a homestay is not an option, the next best thing is to get an apartment with Spanish roommates. If you are serious about learning the language, then under no circumstances should you live with other English speakers.

When you’re there 1. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes.

Everyone makes mistakes. My go-to embarrassing story is the time in my advanced grammar class when I spent five minutes arguing about the ethics of forcefeeding pollas (dicks) instead of pollos (chickens), to the mortified laughter of my teacher and half the class. The point is if you are going to learn you have to be willing to make mistakes. The more mistakes you allow yourself to make at the beginning, provided you are learning from those mistakes not just being lazy, the quicker you will learn.

2. Learn from media.

Soaking up as much Spanish media as possible is one of the best ways to accelerate your learning. Actively consume as much radio, TV, movies, and print material as you can. Listen to the radio every morning, read one article a day even if it is short, and watch the news. Find a Spanish TV series you love or even an American one that has been voiced over and watch it regularly. It will be frustrating at first, but this constant immersion will do wonders for your learning.

3. Find an intercambio.

An intercambio is a language exchange arrangement that is popular in Spain, where a conversation partner helps you improve your Spanish in exchange for you helping them with their English. An intercambio might be a friend of yours, or you may meet solely for the purpose of practicing your respective languages. A typical encounter might be meeting at a bar or cafe for an hour where you spend half the time speaking in English and half the time speaking in Spanish.

How to find an intercambio Whatever method you use to find an intercambio, don’t judge the whole experience by your first interaction. Whether you make the connection through a website, a flyer you put up, or at a meet-up, don’t give up if the first interactions aren’t everything you hoped

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for. Finding a great intercambio that is able to really help you with your Spanish and even become a good friend is well worth one or two lackluster encounters.

Websites • Tus Clases (http://www.tusclasesparticulares.com) This website has hundreds of ads from people looking to practice English.

Each person writes a short paragraph about who they are and what they are looking for. You have the option to e-mail them through the website if you would like to explore things further. Tip: You must select “castellano” as the language you wish to practice. “Español” is not listed as an option.

• Conversation Exchange (http://www.conversationexchange.com) This is another website with hundreds of people looking for intercambios.

Don’t be put off by the archaic web design. Note that when searching it asks you to describe your ideal intercambio, not yourself. Once you do, lists of profiles including first names, ages, hobbies, and a short bio appears. If you’re interested, you can e-mail the person through the site.

Advertise yourself This was how I found my intercambios, and it works especially well if you are near a university. I wrote a short paragraph about who I am, why I was in Madrid, and that I was looking for an intercambio, put a small picture and my e-mail, and printed out over a hundred flyers that I pinned up on message boards all over the university where my program was based. I got several dozen replies by e-mail from interested people, mostly girls. Many of them flaked, but a few of them didn’t, and those who I did meet up with proved to be great contacts. It was through one of them that I ended up meeting someone who would later become my best friend.

Meetups A final way to find intercambios is to go to one of the many meet-ups specifically for intercambios hosted by certain local bars, cafes, and restaurants at different time during the week. There is a good list on Madrid’s official tourism website: www.esmadrid.com/locales-de-intercambio-de-idiomas.

4. Keep a journal.

Keep a small journal with you where you write down unfamiliar words or phrases and take notes on new things you are learning about the culture and language. Take the words or phrases you don’t know, look them up, and then turn them into flash cards.

5. Use flashcards.

Flashcards are the best way I've found to learn large amounts of new words and phrases quickly.

Designing the cards When making flash cards, use contextual definitions. Instead of simply writing the meaning of the word on one side, put it in a sentence, and highlight the part of the sentence that contains the definition of the word. If the word has multiple definitions or shades of meaning depending on the context, such as is the case with many verbs, put down one example for each meaning. When you go back to review the words, your mind will pick up on a contextual meaning for each of the words rather than a dry definition devoid of context, and you will both understand the word better and be able to recall it more easily.

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Example: Two translations of the Spanish verb subir are “to climb” and “to rise.”

Rather than writing that on the definition side of the flash card, I would write two sentences that might look like this: 1. Para llegar a nuestro apartamento, tienes que subir unas escaleras.

(To get to our apartment, you have to climb some stairs.)

2. Los precios de los vuelos han subido. (The prices of the flights have risen.)

Making the flashcards You can either make your flashcards the old fashioned way on index cards or you can use an application.

StudyBlue (www.studyblue.com) My favorite flashcard app. It’s free, easy to use, and gives you all kinds of cool options as far as they ways you can quiz yourself.

Using the cards No matter how many times you practice with a flash card, you won’t remember what’s on it unless you use it in real life. Each day, choose three to five of the cards you are studying and make sure to use those words or phrases in a conversation. Do this even if it is forced, out of context, or the sentence sounds ridiculous. The process will guarantee the word or phrase gets stored in your long-term memory.

6. Make Spanish friends Intercambios are good, but friends are better. A good Spanish friend will be an intercambio by default, but so much more. The first and most important step to making Spanish friends is to force yourself to avoid spending time with other English speakers.

It is impossible to overemphasize the importance of this. Do this even at the risk of seeming rude or aloof. Instead, aim to do all those same activities with Spaniards. Show me a person who is spending more than token amounts of time with other English speakers, and I will show you someone who will never become fluent in Spanish.

Adjusting to a new country and culture is hard, and it can be both comforting and fun to explore your new city with other English speakers, but by doing so you will be setting yourself up for failure if you are serious about learning the language.

Once you’ve made the decision to commit to making your social circle exclusively Spanish, making friends in Spain is the same as anywhere else. Every place you go is an opportunity to make new friends, whether on the street, at a museum, or sitting on the metro. Universities are one of the best places to make new friends, so if you aren’t already at once, go there. Force yourself to be outgoing if it doesn’t come naturally.

Once you start making a few contacts, leverage them to meet as many other people as possible. Before you know it, you will have a great network of Spanish friends, and will be having experiences and opportunities people who spend their time hanging out with other English-speakers can only dream of.

7. Get a girlfriend or boyfriend Not everyone will be able to do this, but nothing will motivate you to practice Spanish harder or give you more great opportunities to do so than dating a Spaniard. If you are single, do everything in your power to create the opportunity to date someone, and when that opportunity comes, don’t hesitate to seize it. Dating a Spanish girl helped me improve my Spanish the most of any single decision I made while in Spain.

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Part V: Things to Do Food and drink Food and drink are at the center of madrileño life, and one of the things that makes eating in Madrid such a joy is that is offers all the best of Spain in one city. The culinary variety in Madrid makes it a fantastic introduction to Spanish cuisine in general, and ensures that there is something for everyone. Beyond being an opportunity to simply pleasure the senses, however, the act of eating in Madrid is central to its culture.

No phrase better captures the essence of madrileño social life than the invitation to quedar a tomar algo (loosely translated as “grab a drink/bite to eat”). It is an invitation to engage in the most meaningful and basic act of leisure, stripped of all the trappings of modern life—friends gathered together sharing ideas, stories, laughs, and dreams. In Madrid, restaurants and bars are not just places to eat or entertain yourself. They are the cornerstone of community.

Spanish Cuisine Spanish cuisine is very regional, with each region contributing to the incredible variety and complexity of Spanish food. In general, the cuisines of costal regions such as Catalonia, the Basque Country, and Galicia feature seafood as the centerpieces of most dishes, while the cuisines of inland provinces such as Castilla are characterized by red meats and legumes which are made into hearty stews and meat roasts. Happily, however, especially in large cities, these culinary traditions are all present, mixing together to offer up options to delight every palate.

Classic dishes You cannot get more Spanish than these.

• Paella. This classic dish originated in Valencia and consists of rice mixed with meat, vegetables, and seafood and served in a shallow pan.

• Tortilla española. An omelette made with eggs, potatoes, and occasionally onion. It can be eaten alone, as a tapa, or in a sandwich.

• Patatas bravas. Perhaps the most ubiquitous tapa. Every region of Spain has its own variation, but all varieties consist of chunks of fried potato dipped in some type of sauce. In Madrid, that sauce is sweet and spicy red sauce made of pimentón.

Tapas Tapas are arguably Spain’s greatest culinary gift to the world. Salir a tapear (“to go out for tapas”) is one of Madrid’s best-loved social and gastronomic traditions. For the uninitiated, a tapa is a small appetizer that can be anything from a handful of olives to a gourmet miniature sandwich. Tapas are Spanish food in miniature, an exhibit of Spain’s richest culinary traditions even as they serve as the vehicle for the constant innovation and re-imagination of Spanish cuisine.

Ordering tapas While it may seem daunting at first, it really isn’t. In a traditional bar, varieties of tapas will typically be lined up along the bar. Take a small plate and help yourself or indicate the one you would like to the bartender. Keep track of what you eat (hang on to the toothpicks, for example), then tell the staff how many you’ve had when it’s time to pay. If the tapas aren’t already out, there will be a list posted behind the bar or on a menu. If the choices are overwhelming, ask for la especialidad de la casa (“the house 29

specialty”) and you can’t go wrong. Raciones (literally “rations”) and media raciones (“half-rations”) are larger tapas servings, and are perfect for groups of two or more or when you are feeling hungry.

Eating out Whether it's a cafe, restaurant, or bar, a comprehensive review of the best places in Madrid is beyond the scope of this guide. For that, I would again highly recommend Lonely Planet, which has helped me consistently discover some of the best places in town. From the oldest restaurant in the world to state-of-the-art culinary innovation labs, Madrid has it all. Here are some tips to keep in mind wherever you go.

• Menú del dia A great way to keep food prices reasonable for lunch on weekdays is to order the menú del día, a three-course set meal complete with a drink and bread.

You’ll be given a menu with a list of several starters, mains, and deserts you can choose from. Prices are generally in the €10-€15 range.

• Special dietary requirements Vegetarian/Vegan food Meat is a central part of Spanish cuisine, and Spain, like the rest of Europe, is behind North America in terms of providing vegetarian and vegan options. Having said that, they are catching up, and every year it gets easier to find alternatives. If you are eating out with friends, simply explain your needs to the waiter and ask for their assistance. You might get some disappointed looks, but most will be understanding and helpful. Some phrases that will be useful are: • Soy vegetariano/vegano. I’m vegetarian/vegan.

• ¿Hay unas opciones vegetarianas/veganas? Are there any vegetarian/ vegan options?

Food allergies As complex as the cuisine is, Spanish food can be a challenge for anyone with serious allergies. Keep a list of the Spanish names of the foods you are allergic to and enlist the waiter to help you safely navigate the menu. Some phrases that will be helpful: • Soy alérgico a… I’m allergic to…

• ¿Puede recomendar algunos platos que no contengan…? ¿Can you recommend some dishes that don’t contain…?

Alcohol in Spain Classic drinks • Sangria. Perhaps Spain’s most famous drink, sangria consists of a mixture of red wine, chopped fresh fruit, sweetener, and a bit of brandy.

• Tinto de verano. Sometimes referred to as “poor man’s sangria,” tinto de verano is a mixture of red wine with a fruit soda, often lemon-flavored.

• Kalimotxo. Another red-wine specialty, this drink mixes it with Coca-Cola, and is a perennial favorite for the Spanish tradition of botellón.

• Cava. Cava is bubbly, refreshing variety of Spanish wine, usually white or rosecolored, that is similar to champagne.

• Jerez. The wine of Andalucía, jerez is sherry wine made from white grapes that is the fortified with grape brandy. It is one of the most popular beverages in Spain, and can be found everywhere.

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Cultural views Attitudes toward alcohol in Spain are much more relaxed than in the United States. The legal drinking age as of 2010 in most provinces is 18, raised from 16 before that. Many people start drinking in their early teens, as it’s not uncommon for young people to have wine or beer with a family meal, particularly on special occasions.

Alcohol is not seen as the taboo that it is here in the United States, but rather as a normal part of everyday life, and hence in general Spaniards drink much more frequently but in greater moderation than Americans. Many Spaniards will have a beer or wine with their midday and evening meal, and drinking during the workweek is the rule, not the exception.

Botellón A proud Spanish tradition, especially among young people, botellón is the practice of gathering in groups to drink and socialize in public, usually at night. Partly in response to rising prices in bars and clubs, and partly because it is an easy way for large groups to be together, botellón is the Spanish equivalent of pre-gaming. It is not a replacement to going out, but rather a precursor. Different cities and provinces have made half-hearted attempts to crack down on the practice, but with little success.

Madrid for non-drinkers Drinking is central to Spanish life and culture, but this doesn’t mean that if you don’t drink you can’t participate. Precisely because bars and cafes are so central to the social life of Madrid, all these places carry several varieties of cerveza sin alcohol (nonalcoholic beer). In fact, Spain is both the leading producer and consumer of nonalcoholic beer in the world!

Nightlife Madrileños love to party, and they do it with a passion and zeal that is hard match. Ernest Hemingway summed it up best when he wrote ‘Nobody goes to bed in Madrid until they have killed the night.’ The typical weekend schedule in Madrid speaks for itself. After dinner around 10pm, people head to the bars, where they will stay until after midnight. While bars and clubs in the US close around 2am, most clubs in Madrid don’t even open their doors until 12am, and they don’t really get going until between 2am and 3am. Between 1am and 3am, people will head to the discotecas (clubs), where they will party until 6am or later. Finally, no Madrid night is complete without some chocolate con churros (deep-fried doughnut sticks dipped in hot chocolate) on the way home.

Places to go Admission to clubs in Madrid typically costs €10-€20. Depending on the venue and night of the week, the cover charge may come included with a drink or two. Below are some of the most well-known clubs.

• El Kapital (www.grupo-kapital.com) Madrid’s most famous megaclub, El Kapital has seven floors, each with a different style of music.

• Teatro Joy Eslava (www.joy-esclava.com) Housed in a 19th-century theater, it claims to have operated every day for the last three decades. Each night features a different theme, and some liveperformances and cabaret-style shows keep things interesting.

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• Serrano 41 (www.serrano41.com) A higher-end club in the upscale neighborhood of Salamanca, this spot is known to be frequented by A-listers and hence has a stricter door policy than other venues. Weekends typically feature house and pop music.

Callejear Callejear is my favorite Spanish word. There is no equivalent in English, but it means to wander the streets of a city, with no particular aim in mind, simply to soak up the sights, smells, and sounds. To callejear is not only one of the best ways to get to know Madrid, but one of the city’s greatest pleasures. The following are suggestions for some different places to wander.

Routes and Neighborhoods • Historic Madrid To get a sense of historic Madrid, nothing beats wandering through the narrow streets between the Palacio Real and Plaza Mayor. These streets and buildings are the oldest in the city, and when walking through them again you can almost see the medieval hustle and bustle that once filled them.

• La Latina This neighborhood south of the Plaza Mayor has the best tapas in Madrid.

The Calle de la Cava Baja especially is iconic. Take a walk through this neighborhood and stop in a few tapas bars. On Sundays, La Latina is home to Madrid’s largest flee market, El Rastro, hosted on Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores.

• Gran Vía Running east to west, Gran Vía is one of Madrid’s most iconic boulevards, and has had a central role in every major historical event in the city since it was built. It’s lined with eye-catching architecture and some of Madrid’s best shopping. Start at Plaza de Cibeles and walk to Plaza de España.

• Paseo del Prado Madrid’s north/south axis, this wide, green thoroughfare runs along the western edge of Retiro Park. Walk it from the Atocha station to Plaza de Cibeles.

• Barrio de Las Letras Nestled north of Calle Atocha and just west of the Paseo del Prado, Las Letras is the historic neighborhood of some of Madrid’s greatest literary luminaries, including Miguel de Cervantes and Lope de Vega. Find their houses, and soak up the atmosphere in the neighborhood that has been home to some of the world’s greatest literary figures.

• Salamanca Madrid’s most upscale neighborhood, Salamanca is home to some of the best shopping, fashion, and design that Madrid has to offer. Saunter down Calle de Jose Ortega y Gasset, one of Salamanca’s main arteries, and take little detours at different places that catch your eye.

Sites and Activities Museums • Reina Sofia (www.museoreinasofia.es) 32

One of the members of the so called Triángulo de Oro (The Golden Triangle, used to refer to Madrid’s three world-class art museums), the Reina Sofia is Madrid’s premier museum of contemporary art, with a collection primarily from the 20th century. It is also home to arguably the most famous Spanish painting of all time, Picasso’s Guernica. Admission is free on Sundays.

• El Prado (www.museodelprado.es) One of the world’s premier art galleries and home to the greatest collections of Spain’s masters, the Prado is one of the great jewels of Madrid and not to be missed. Admission is free from 6pm to 8pm Monday through Saturday and from 5pm to 7pm Sunday.

• Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza (www.museothyssen.org) The Thyssen is one of the best private collections of European art in the world, and fills in the gaps in the collections of the Reina Sofia and Prado.

Admission is €9.

Historical Sites • Palacio Real (www.patrimonionacional.es) Today, the lavish Palacio Real is only used for royal ceremonies, but you can tour fifty of the palace rooms and see some of it’s most famous architectural features.

• Plaza Mayor One of Madrid’s most iconic locations, the Plaza Mayor has been at the center of the history of the city, from royal wedding celebrations to the infamous autos-de-fé and burnings at the stake of the Spanish Inquisition. It is still one of Madrid’s most beautiful plazas.

Temple de Dabod • Plaza de la Puerta del Sol Sol, as it's referred to, used to be the eastern gate of the city but today is the modern epicenter, a crossroads where Madrid comes together. It is ground zero for the city's biggest celebrations, such as every New Year’s when tens of thousands of madrileños gather to watch the clock strike midnight, as well as for Madrid’s biggest political protests.

• Puerta de Alcalá The eastern gate of the city during the rule of the Bourbons, this impressive archway built by King Carlos III is also the site of a biannual ritual where sheep are symbolically transferred from their summer to winter pastures.

• Plaza de Cibeles The most splendid roundabout in all of Madrid, Plaza de Cibeles is also the seat of Madrid’s government, the ayuntamiento (town hall) in the beautiful Palacio de Comunicaciones. Other landmark buildings include the Palacio de Linares and Casa de América. In the center of the roundabout is one of Madrid’s most beautiful fountains, the fountain of the goddess Cybele. Cibeles is also the site of celebration for Real Madrid and their supporters any time the team wins a title.

Templo de Debod

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An authentic 4th-century BC Egyptian temple that had to be moved due to a dam construction and was sent block by block to Spain, it now sits north of the Palacio Real and provides some great views of the surrounding country.

Cultural activities • Parque del Buen Retiro Designed in the 17th century by King Felipe IV as a preserve for royalty, today Retiro is a park as impressive as any you’ll find in a European city.

Scattered with beautiful marble statues such as the unique El Ángel Caído (“The Fallen Angel,” one of the only known statues of Lucifer), and the occasional eclectic building such as the beautiful Palacio de Cristal (“Glass Palace”), El Retiro is full of treasures waiting to be discovered. It is where madrileños gather to stroll, run, bike, read the paper, or have a picnic. Performers of all types are scattered through the grounds, and in the center of the park is an artificial lake, which forms a focal point of sorts for all the goings-on.

• Real Jardín Botánico More intimate than El Retiro, the botanical gardens are located at its southwestern-most edge. Admission is €3.

• CaixaForum (www.fundacio.lacaixa.es) An impressive and eclectic structure, the Caixa Forum is worth a visit just for its architecture and the hanging garden that covers one side. Inside, however, a collection of modern exhibitions featuring things such as photography, multimedia, and modern art are always on display. The Caixa Forum is free to the public.

• Círculo de Bellas Arts (www.circulobellasartes.com) A private non-profit cultural organization founded in the 19th century, the Círculo de Bellas Arts is located in a beautiful building at the end of Gran Vía, right before Cibeles. It hosts exhibitions, shows, workshops, and film screenings.

It also has a beautiful rooftop terrace with a bar and some of the best views of Madrid. It’s €4 to ride the elevator to the top. Head up there in the late afternoon and watch the sun set over Madrid.

• El Rastro Madrid’s flee market which dates to the 17th century, el rastro literally means “stain,” and is a reference to the trail of blood that used to be left by dragging slaughtered animals down the hill. Located today on Ribera de Curtidores, El Rastro is the place to be on a Sunday morning, with madrileños of all types gathering to find a bargain and enjoy the sights.

• Plaza de Toros (www.lasventastour.com) Arguably the most important bullfighting ring in the world, the Plaza de Toros is at the heart of this Spanish tradition. Bullfighting season is from early May to October, but even if you don’t watch a bullfight, go wander around this landmark of Spanish culture. The architecture alone is breathtaking.

Part X: The Neighborhoods of Madrid Madrid is divided into several different neighborhoods, each with its own particular attractions, charm, and reputation. Since these barrios (neighborhoods) are 34

so often referenced by madrileños, it’s important to have a basic understanding of where they are and what they are known for. The best way to use these descriptions is with Google Maps. Find the main streets and start to get a feel for the layout of central Madrid.

Madrid de los Austrias The area between the Palacio Real in the west and Puerta del Sol in the east, and roughly bound by Gran Vía to the north and the Calle de Segovia to the south, Madrid de los Austrias is the old center of Madrid. This is Madrid at its most historic and grand, characterized by the old streets, monasteries, churches, and public buildings that defined Old Spain.

La Latina Just south of Austrias is La Latina, the oldest part of Madrid and site of the ancient Islamic citadel. With a medieval street layout and architecture dripping with history, La Latina is also home to Madrid’s best tapas. It goes from the Calle Bailen in the east to Calle Toledo on the west, and it bounded north and south by Calle Segovia and the Puerta de Toledo, respectively.

Lavapiés Once the Jewish quarter of Madrid until their expulsion at the end of the 15th century, Lavapiés is now a bundle of contradictions, at once one of the oldest barrios in the city but also home to the largest population of immigrants in central Madrid, which gives it a quirky, bohemian vibe. Centered on the Plaza de Lavapiés, it goes from Calle de Toledo in the west to the Calle de Atocha in the east, and is bound on the north by Calle Colegiata, and on the south by the streets Ronda de Toledo and Ronda de Atocha.

Sol and Huertas The heart of modern-day Madrid, it includes a cross section of everything Madrid has to offer—historical sites, great food, and a vibrant night life. Naturally, it is also the most tourist-dense part of Madrid. Sol and Huertas includes the area around Puerta del Sol and extends roughly to the Paseo del Prado, bound to the north by Calle de Alcalá and to the south by Calle de Atocha.

Retiro/Atocha This mainly includes the area between the Paseo del Prado and the western edge of El Retiro, and is home to some of Madrid’s biggest attractions, including the Golden Triangle of art museums, the botanical gardens, the Caixa Forum, the Círculo de Bellas Artes, and of course Retiro.

Malasaña This is Madrid’s university neighborhood, and was the nucleus of la movida madrileña in the 70’s and 80’s. Today it is a vibrant and eclectic mix of everything— lively bars and nightclubs, retro book stores, bohemian coffee houses, and cutting-edge fashion boutiques and art galleries. It goes from Calle de la Princesa in the west to Calle de Fuencarral in the east, and from Calle de Alberto Aguilera in the north to Gran Vía in the south.

Chueca Once the armpit of central Madrid, Chueca was revitalized beginning in the 80’s and is now the center of Madrid’s gay community, characterized by a lively nightlife scene, boutique shops, and street cafes. The LGTB celebrations held here each 35

summer are world famous. Centered in the Plaza de Chueca, it goes from Calle de Fuencarral on the east side to the Calle del Barquillo on the west, and from Calle de Genova on the north side to Gran Vía on the south.

Salamanca Madrid’s most upscale and wealthy neighborhood, Salamanca is home to large, stately mansions, fashion boutiques from some of the best designers in the world, and luxury shopping. Salamanca extends from the Paseo de la Castellana on its western side to the M-30 highway in the east, and from Calle de Alcalá and Calle O’Donnel in the south to Calle de Maria de Molina in the north.

Part XI: Traveling in Spain One of the greatest joys of living in Madrid is using it as a starting point to travel and explore. When you do travel, rather than going to the rest of Europe, stay in Spain and experience all that it has to offer. It is an incredibly diverse country, with many different regions each characterized by its own geography, climate, food, customs, and even language, and there is enough to see and do in Spain to keep even the most dedicated traveller occupied for years. Where you go is up to you. You can’t do it all, and I’ve found Lonely Planet Spain invaluable in deciding what the most important trips are. When you do go, you’ll find travel around Spain is easy and convenient thanks to an abundance of options. What follows are some tools and tricks to help you make your trips as cheap and fun as possible. The options you use will depend on your budget, time constraints, and the type of experience you want to have.

Travel Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) Ryanair is a low-cost Irish airline that has grown into one of the busiest international providers, and is pretty much the best thing about European travel. With 1800 daily routes between every major European city and whole bunch of smaller ones you wouldn’t even think of, Ryanair is usually the best way to get around, often even domestically. The best part, however, is the price. Fares are as low as €4.99. Especially if you have flexible travel dates, the deals you can get are absolutely ridiculous.

Planning a trip Always book directly from the Ryanair website. If you have some flexibility or just want to see what’s out there, Ryanair’s Fare Finder tool is excellent. Choose an origin city and destination. The destination can be “Anywhere,” a region, a country, or a specific city. You can set a budget, and select either a specific dates, a range, or a month of the year. The Route Map let’s you do the same thing but actually visualize all the places Ryanair flies to given your criteria on a map of Europe. When planning trips, be on the lookout for the promotions that Ryanair is constantly running as well.

Baggage One of the biggest complaints about Ryanair is their strict baggage policy, but for such low fares, it’s really unfair to let this bother you. Abide by the rules, and you will have no problems. You are allowed to take one carry-on measuring 22in x 16in x 8in (55cm x 40cm x 20cm) with a max weight of 22lbs (10kg) and a one personal item 14in x 8in x 8in (35cm x 20cm x 20cm). If a Ryanair employee checks your bag size and it is found to be over the limit, you will be forced to check you bag, which at the airport will 36

cost you as much as €55. In practice, what matters most is the visual size. I’ve never had Ryanair try to weigh my carry-on. Just make sure the dimensions are within the limits, and you will be fine. In my experience, there is some wiggle room with the size of both cary-ons, but it is better to stay safe. You never know when you will get an employee who might throw the book at you.

If you want to check a bag, prices will depend on the time of year, the weight of the bag, and whether you purchase the checked bag during the online booking process or at the airport, and will range from €15 to €55.

Check-in Another source of confusion for people unfamiliar with Ryanair is the check-in process. 24 hours before your flight, you will be allowed to check-in on the Ryanair website. Once you do, you will have access to a printable boarding pass. It is your responsibility to print this boarding pass and bring it to the airport. If you check-in online but misplace your boarding pass, it is €15 to have it reprinted at the airport. If you forget to check in at all online, it will cost you €70.

Recently, Ryanair added mobile boarding passes through their Ryanair app, but at the time of writing these are only available to citizens of the EU, and there are some airports that still don’t accept them. Until this changes, if you are not an EU citizen you will have to print out your boarding pass and bring it with you.

Renfe (www.renfe.com) Renfe, Spain’s rail company, has a huge network of routes connecting every part of the country. Between major hubs, such as Madrid and Barcelona, Renfe operates the Alta Velocidad Española (AVE) or high-speed rail service, which travels at speeds of close to 200mph. While the AVE is fast and convenient (Madrid—Barcelona takes only 2.5 hours), it is also very expensive (over €100 for Madrid—Barcelona). In my experience, Renfe trains are best for getting between smaller towns in the Spanish countryside.

Planning a trip You can book tickets through Renfe’s website, but it is poorly designed and difficult to use. Also, when dealing with foreign credit cards and IDs you can sometimes run into issues booking tickets online. Whether purchasing a ticket for a big trip or one to the next town, I’ve found it’s easier to just go in person to a Renfe office and buy the tickets there.

ALSA (www.alsa.es) Spain’s main bus company, ALSA is one of the cheapest ways to get around Spain. For longer distances, the trade-off compared to the AVE is longer trips and less comfort. Madrid—Barcelona only costs about €30, but takes 8 hours, and you’re on a bus.

Planning a trip ALSA’s website is well designed and easy to use, and I’ve booked many tickets on it without incident. When you book, pay close attention to the station where your bus will leave from. There are several ALSA hubs in Madrid depending on what part of the country you are going to.

BlaBla Car (www.blablacar.es) Launched in 2003, BlaBla Car is a service that connects everyday drivers who have empty seats in their cars with people willing to pay for those seats. The concept is 37

beautiful in its simplicity and it’s easily one of my favorite travel tools in Europe. Not only is it often the cheapest way to travel long distances, but it provides the opportunity to meet really interesting and cool people along the way.

Planning a trip On the website or mobile app, simply enter your origin, destination, and date. A list of all trips matching your criteria will appear, complete with trip information such as number of seats available, cost, type of vehicle, departure time and place, and details such as whether pets and smoking are allowed, as well as driver information such as their name, age, and rating on a 5.0 scale based on previous reviews. For more detailed information, click a trip to see things like the maximum amount of luggage allowed, a more detailed itinerary, and a discussion thread where you and other prospective passengers can ask the driver specific questions. Once you’ve decided on a trip, reserve a spot and you’re good to go! The driver will provide you with personal contact info so that you can coordinate details on the day of the trip.

Lodging While hotels abound in Spain, I avoid them completely when traveling. The following two services are what I use to book all my lodging, as they provide you not only with more interesting and rich experiences than a traditional hotel, but cheaper accommodations as well.

AirBnB (www.airbnb.com) Launched by several Silicon Valley entrepreneurs in 2008, in just eight short years AirBnB has transformed the global housing and rental market. AirBnB is a platform that allows private individuals to list and rent out rooms or whole apartments and houses on a short-term basis. The beauty is that is allows you to stay with local hosts, in unique and cool places, most often for less than what a cheap hotel would cost you. The AirBnB community is one of the most welcoming and friendly in the world, and most hosts will go out of their way to make sure you have a pleasant stay, serving as your own personal concierge by providing recommendations for your visit and helping you make the most of your time.

Planning a trip The AirBnB website is beautiful, easy-to-use, and very self-explanatory. You can apply a whole host of filters to your searches. You can choose between renting a shared room, private room, or an entire home/apartment. For any listing, pay special attention to the reviews and amenities. The two I always look for are WiFi and a kitchen. Having a kitchen where you are staying is one of the easiest ways to save money while traveling.

Instead of spending €15-€20 on dinner, you can spend €5-€7 at a local supermarket and eat like a king. Depending on the AirBnB host, you can either book immediately or submit a request which they then have 24 hours to approve or decline. Once you are approved, you can stay in touch and sort out details through AirBnB’s message service.

Hostelworld (www.hostelworld.com) Hostels are one of my favorite ways to travel, and Hostel World is my favorite way to book them. With over 33,000 properties listed in 170 countries, there is something for everyone here. The beauty of hostels, besides the fact that they are generally the cheapest places to stay (depending on the time of year, you can find beds for as cheap as €15/night) is that it provides a great opportunity to meet other travelers.

In general, you will find a group of open-minded, adventurous people who are friendly 38

and welcoming. Some of my best memories traveling were made with people I met at the hostels I stayed in.

Planning a trip Enter your trip information on the website, and you’re on your way. Hostel World rates hostels on everything from security and location to cleanliness and atmosphere for an aggregate rating out of 10.0. Read through the property description, reviews, and look at the pictures to get a feel for the place. Many hostels also offer “extras” to their guests, such as guided walking tours and bar or tapas crawls. Keep an eye out for these types of things in the reviews and descriptions. They can be great ways to get to know a city, round out your experience, and make some great memories.

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References A note on references: The information contained in this guide is overwhelmingly general knowledge—information that one learns and absorbs by simply living for an extended period of time in Madrid, with all that entails. Some of the information, such as the sections on Spanish history or political parties, is slightly more technical but still falls into the category of general knowledge, as it’s all information that could be found in any encyclopedia or with a quick Google search. Included below are some of the sources I consulted to either confirm specific points or refresh my memory on specific details as I wrote this guide. Excluded are any websites already referenced in the guide itself.

"Anti-austerity Movement in Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Atlético Madrid." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Barrio De La Latina (Madrid)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

Bennett, Annie. "Top 10 Foods to Try in Spain." BBC Good Food. BBC Worldwide Ltd., n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Botellón." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Chueca." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Citizens (Spanish Political Party)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Convergence and Union." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Dos De Mayo Uprising." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"El Madrid De Los Austrias." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"The End of the Spanish Siesta?" BBC News. BBC, 9 Apr. 2016. Web. 10 June 2016.

"FC Barcelona." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Felipe VI of Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Francoist Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Habsburg Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

Ham, Anthony. Pocket Madrid. China: Lonely Planet, 2013. Print.

"History of Spain (1810–73)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Infanta Sofía of Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Juan Carlos I of Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"La Liga." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Leonor, Princess of Asturias." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

Lonely Planet Spain. China: Lonely Planet, 2013. Print.

"Monarchy of Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Peninsular War." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"People's Party (Spain)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

Peregrina, Kate. "How to Swear in Spain." Kate Peregrina in Spain. N.p., 31 Oct. 2013.

Web. 10 June 2016.

"Podemos (Spanish Political Party)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

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"Politics of Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Queen Letizia of Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Queen SofĂ­a of Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Real Madrid C.F." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Reconquista." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Restoration (Spain)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Restoration (Spain)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Salamanca (Madrid)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Second Spanish Republic." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Spanish Constitution of 1978." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Spanish Cuisine." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Spanish Socialist Workers' Party." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Sport in Spain." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Timeline of Spanish History." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"2004 Madrid Train Bombings." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"Universidad (Madrid)." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

"War of the Spanish Succession." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 10 June 2016.

Warner, Leah. "8 Classic Spanish Drinks You Must Try This Summer!" Citylife Madrid.

Citylife Madrid, 22 May 2015. Web. 10 June 2016.

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