Big Island

Beautiful, Bountiful

By Niki Chopra Richardson Big Island

THE ISLANDS OF HAWAII HAVE LONG BEEN HELD AS THE PINNACLE OF TROPICAL VACATION DESTINATIONS. OF THESE ISLANDS, THE ISLAND OF HAWAI’I, COMMONLY KNOWN AS THE BIG ISLAND FOR ITS DISTINCTION AS BEING THE LARGEST ISLAND IN THE ARCHIPELAGO, BOASTS 12 SEPARATE CLIMATE ZONES FROM THE BALMY TROPICS OF KONA TO THE SNOWCAPPED PEAKS OF MAUNA KEA. FROM SIPPING MAI TAIS POOLSIDE TO OFF ROADING, FROM CHASING WATERFALLS TO TRAVERSING KONA COFFEE PLANTATIONS, THIS ISLAND HAS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE.

WHERE TO STAY

Thirty minutes north of Kailua-Kona International Airport, the Ocean Tower Hilton Grand Vacation on the grounds of the Hilton Waikoloa Village affords you all the amenities of home with a complete kitchen, stacked washer and dryer and upgraded and modern furnishings. It’s on the north end of the resort and is a little bit of a hike from where you will either self-park ($39/night) or valet ($55/night). However, a convenient (slow moving) tram or boat provides you an alternative to walking. The MAKAI, Palace Tower, Suites and Ocean Tower are all connected by covered walkways. Known as the museum walkway, you’ll find much of the 1,800 pieces of exquisite artwork depicting the cultures of Polynesia, Melanesia, Burma, Indonesia, China and Thailand. There’s more artwork scattered throughout various areas on the resort.

WHERE TO PLAY

With its myriad of pools and even a salt water lagoon to snorkel with colorful fish and turtle sightings, you never have to leave the resort grounds. The Kona pool boasts a 175 foot water slide, with smaller slides for kids of all ages available at the Kohala pool. Pool-side cocktails and smoothies are available at the Lagoon Grill, Kona Bar and the Kohala Bar (only Friday - Sunday for Kohala). If you’re not inclined to be exposed to UV rays all day, cabanas are available to rent. A huge bonus of this property is the Dolphin Learning Center located adjacent to the Lagoon Grill. Here you can enjoy watching the Dolphins frolicking while you enjoy a bite. For a graband-go kind of meal (think pre-packaged poke, chicken tenders and fries or pizza), check out the Orchard Marketplace. The Kona pool area affords a great sunset viewing point. This is also one of the access points to the beach. Just past the buoys of the resort’s saltwater lagoon is an inlet cove teeming with colorful fish swimming around the coral. It is best to avoid stepping on the coral; rather aspire to stay afloat so as not to damage the reef. Be mindful of tide times to avoid high tide, rip tides and currents.

Resort activities include Paddleboard Yoga, Hawaiian cultural classes, Spin, Core, Tai Chi and a host of fitness and craft classes throughout the day. The Kohala Spa, a fully-equipped fitness center, Legends of Hawaiian Luau and two championship golf courses round out the resort amenities and offerings.

A half mile walk from the main lobby of the Hilton will lead you to the Kings Shops on Waikoloa Beach Drive where you can have authentic Hawaiian Shave Ice, grab some fish and chips or even shop at Tiffany’s. The adjacent Queen’s Marketplace has groceries, more shops and restaurants and even a movie theater.

Exploring the area without leaving the resort is easily accomplished by heading up the walkway past the Kona Pool and Kamuela Provision Company and taking the stairs onto the black sand and coral-filled beach to explore the tidepools during low tide. If you’re lucky you’ll see a sea turtle (or two) lazily floating in the shallows. The rocks and corals make for treacherous walk-

ing; so be sure and bring sturdy walking shoes or hiking sandals. Continue a little further and you’ll be rewarded with a white sand beach and lagoon for swimming. More direct access to this area can be had by parking by Lava Lava Beach Club.

If you’re a coffee connoisseur or frankly, even if you’re not, be sure to carve out a few hours to check out a couple of coffee farms. Usually, these family-owned places are at the home of the owners and they have 100% Kona (usually organic) coffee. Overwhelmed with the choices? Consider Buddha’s Cup Coffee and Tea Farm on Bishop Road in Holualoa. On your way up the mountain, you’ll encounter at least a couple of other coffee farms should you want to compare. You can call ahead for a tour, or simply wander around their expansive grounds that are home to more than just coffee plants. Chickens, a couple of peacocks, a handful of parrots, goats, miniature horses and even a couple of cats rule the roost in these parts. The owner, Manny, might remind you of a pirate if you can picture him with a parrot on his shoulder. But don’t let appearances be deceptive. He knows his coffee and has been lauded for the quality and flavor profile of his Budda’s Cup 100% pure Kona coffee. The bonus: the Buddha’s Cup tasting room features coffees from neighboring plantations of Imagine (across the driveway), Kona Kulana Farms, Kona Gold Trading Company and even a special Kona Gold UVB coffee infused with UVB light known to have healing properties.

WHERE TO EAT

Be sure to hit up Nui Breakfast at the Hilton Waikoloa Village for their delectable fluffy (large) pancakes smothered in Nutella and topped with chopped macadamia nuts. For a lighter fare, consider their locallymade granola served in a half-papaya with lilikoi (passion fruit) yogurt and a drizzle of local honey. If you’re in the mood for a mimosa, give their POG (passion fruit, orange juice, guava juice) mimosa a try. Their coffee is, but naturally, 100% Kona.

Pool-side fare for those hanging-around-at-theresort-all-day days includes burgers, Hawaiian bowls, and salads. Think of this food like amusement park food; convenient, overpriced and fairly forgettable. Want something light yet substantial? Try the Lagoon Salad, a hearty portion of garbanzo beans, beets, mixed greens, tomatoes, avocado and cucumber with furikake chicken bites and a tasty papaya seed dressing. Thirsty? Check out Lawrence’s 180 Seconds, a combination of mango rum, coconut rum, tropical juices and grenadine; caution - it goes down fast and smooth! Be sure to try the coconut smoothie for a nonalcoholic option. While the Mai Tais are typical of resort-style cocktails, they are the best bang for your buck; at $15 a pop, the piña coladas and other blended drinks drink (and taste) like a non-alcoholic smoothie and leave you wanting more.

For an off-the-beaten-path exceptional coffee (or cocktails, depending on your mood), try HiCO Hawaiian Coffee Company in Kailua-Kona. Tucked away in an industrial part of town, be sure to try their Ube Latte with their house-made Ube (purple sweet potato) syrup and save room for their delicious Avo

Toast on sweet bread and topped with pickled carrots, hemp seeds and furikake along with the requisite avocado.

For dinner, consider heading over to the Queen’sMarketplace to Kuleana Rum Shack best known for its Big Island-made Rum Agricole; rum made with pressed cane sugar juice instead of molasses. If you think you know Mai Tais - think again. You haven’t had a ‘proper’ Mai Tai, unless you’ve tried theirs. Featuring three of their rums- Huihui, Nanea and Rum Agricole, this perfectly balanced, no-fruit juice containing Kuleana Mai Tai will tickle your tastebuds and leave you wanting seconds in no time. If a Mai Tai doesn’t float your boat, consider the Waikoloa Sour. Another flawlessly mixed, perfectly balanced explosion of flavor for your palate. Alternatively, consider their mojitos on draft!

For starters, consider the Mochiko chicken, korean-inspired perfectly crisped boneless chicken thighs in mochiko flour (flour made from mochi rice which is sticky and glutinous and naturally gluten free) and Big Island Cauliflower Wings which have a zingy bite thanks to their house-made buffalo sauce which is complemented by the house dill ranch dressing.

Follow this with the Puhelu Steak and Mash; a 12 oz (best cooked medium rare) Black Angus strip loin with mushrooms and cracked peppercorns, a Nanea (rum) demi-glace and a kiawe (Hawaii’s mesquite) smoked mash with just the perfect touch of smokiness without being overwhelming. To satisfy your sweet tooth, check out the Lilikoi (passion fruit) crème brûlée for a creamy, dreamy bite of perfection.

If you’re looking for something more casual, consider the food stall along the side of Mamalohoa Highway called Randy’s Huli Chicken and Ribs. The line of people at any point of the day and the delectably fragrant smoke smells will give it away! Smoked brisket and ribs and delicious BBQ chicken are served either a la carte or as a combo with rice, corn and even with their smoked chicken mac and cheese or potato mac salad. Your tastebuds will be singing before this meal is over. More than likely the owner, Randy, will be the one taking your order and welcoming you to his little corner of the Highway with a smile and a quip. His homemade seasonings and BBQ sauce is something you’ll want to pack up and take with you, so plan to check your luggage so you can stock up on delicious, sweet and tart BBQ sauce. This is a must-do stop on your Big Island adventure.

DAY TRIPPING TO HILO

No trip to the island of Hawai’i is complete without a day trip to Hilo. Consider taking the ocean route, which might add anywhere from 15 - 25 minutes to your drive time but is well worth the expansive ocean views and innumerable gorgeous gulches with rushing rivers and verdant foliage in greens so vibrant you would think it fake.

Downtown Hilo is working on being quaint with its assortment of stores and restaurants. It’s a bit rundown looking, but it boasts a fabulous Farmers Market (open from 7am - 3pm, 7 days a week, with ‘Big Market Days’ on Wednesday and Saturday) with delectable tropical fruits and vegetables, locally sourced BBQ sauces and rubs, fresh honey and any number of handmade jewelry and your typically touristy wraps and t-shirts. Be sure to try coconut water from a coconut chopped open in front of you. If you’ve never tried it before, definitely ask for a coconut that has flesh that can be scraped off the sides once you’re done drinking the water. Not as sweet as the Indian or Southeast Asian coconut water, this is nevertheless a refreshing drink on a hot day.

Even though Italian food is probably the last thing you’d think of getting in an oceanfront Hawaiian town, check out Cafe Pesto, Hilo Bay in the historic S. Hata building. The farmers market vegetable saffron risotto features roasted red pepper, artichoke, caper olives and rainbow chard all sourced from the Farmer’s Market two doors down. The heritage pork bolognese with Kaunamano pork, local beef and red wine marinara with basil linguini is sure to satisfy the most picky of palates while the woodfired Luau Pizza; wood-fired personal pizza with Kalua pork, smoked mozzarella, grilled pineapple and sweet onion received a nod on Guy Fieri’s Diners Drive Ins and Dives. The pork was perfectly cooked and crispy, but the pizza dough was bland and didn’t have enough ‘spring.’ The grilled pineapple chunks were a good foil for the sweet onion.

If you’re short on time, consider doing a 12-mileloop of Falls, Caves and Gardens. Just under two miles from downtown Hilo, start with Rainbow Falls; named so because of the way the sun bounces off the water casting rainbows. These are best seen first thing in the morning but are majestic any time of day. Next hop over to Pe'epe'e Falls; just a few miles down the road and be sure to read about the story of the Demigod Maui and his mother Hina. From the falls, head toward Kaumana Caves; parking is on the south side of the road, but the cave entrance is via a steep staircase which is actually the collapsed skylight of a lava tube known to be 25 miles long as a result of the 188 eruptions of the volcano Mauna Loa, is on the right. Water dripping from the ceiling of the lava tube is typical, making for a treacherous trek in nearly pitch darkness. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes and bring a flashlight if you want to explore. This is not for the weak of ankle. Finish your tour with a trip to the 24-acre Lili’uokalani Park and Gardens by the bay, named after Hawaii’s last reigning monarch, Queen Lili’uokalani. These peaceful gardens offer the largest Edo-style ornamental gardens outside of Japan with ponds, stone lanterns, bridges, pagodas and a Japanese teahouse all surrounded by sprawling, majestic Banyan trees. Banyan Tree Drive is a canopy of Banyan Trees along the Waiākea Peninsula along the coast of Hilo that were intentionally planted by the Hilo Parks Commission dating back to 1933. These have plaques bearing the name of the celebrity who planted the tree and the date that the tree was planted. Names you’ll find are FDR, Amelia Earhart and even Richard Nixon among others.

If driving up a mountain to see an active volcano isn’t your jam, consider touring the nearby familyowned Kona Coffee plantations. Bishop Road in Holualoa boasts a handful of Kona coffee plantations, most of which offer tours and tastings. Be sure to continue up the drive (slowly - most of this is along a single lane wide road) to The Buddha’s Cup Plantation. Reservations for the tours can be made online in advance. But you can also just choose to wander onto their grounds, take your own little tour, interact with the menagerie of animals (cats, parrots, miniature horses, goats, chickens or even peacocks) that they have on the property. Ask to try the Hibiscus tea and be sure to sample their macadamia nut rum cake. This delectably moist cake is the perfect complement to a hot cup of their award-winning Kona!

A week is not nearly enough time to see all there is to see on this prolific Island. With its different weather systems, it is a wise idea to pack at least a light jacket or sweatshirt. While Kailua-Kona boasts of the tropical balmy 80-degree weather we expect of Hawaii, a mere 30-40 minutes away, Waimea could be rainy and windy. Similarly, the weather at Volcano National Park can be 15-20 degrees cooler. Before heading off the Big Island, Hawaii’s Agricultural Inspection will be scanning your checked bags at the airport on behalf of the US Department of Agriculture to ensure that no banned items (fruits, plants, live snails etc.) make it back to the mainland, bringing with them any fruit flies or other hazardous plant insects or diseases. v

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