A DESSERT MAGAZINE
Strawberry Best of season
NUMBER 1 9 00220574 1357
057
Mascarpone Tiramisú recipe
WINTER
contents PAGE
3
News
París, 1898 Sweet Red Bean Paste All about eggs PAGE
5
Home made Ice cream Dei Coltelli secrets Reportage: Italian gelato PAGE
7
Small, dark & sweet A selection of delectable chocolate delights PAGE
9
A box of old recipes Cookie and candy crash A lemon in the fridge Sweet apple pie PAGE
12
Merengue
The king of brownie’s The queen of merengue Strawberry fool PAGE
14
In Prise of pudding PAGE
10
K. Tinder recounts the unexpected origins of a dieting empire
The Italian Gelato Home made recipe
MERENGUE MAGAZINE ® All rights reserved
news
París, 1880 HOW AN OVERCOOKED CAKE BECAMES TRADITION The Tatin was created accidentally at the Hotel Tatin i Lamote Beuvron in 1880. The hotel was run by two sisters, Stéphanie and Caroline Tatin. There are conflicting stories concerning the tart’s origin, but the most common is Stéphanie who did most of the cooking, was overworked one day. Smelling the burning, she tried to rescue it putting the pastry base on top of the pan of apples, quickly finishing the cooking by putting the pan in the oven. Putting pan finishing pan in the oven. The pan and finishing the pan in oven she tried to rescue it. Putting the cake the in oven. The pan finishing the pan in the oven she tried to rescue it. There are conflicting stories about it. Putting the pan finishing. Smelling burning, she tried to rescue it. There are lot of stories about it, but this is the more known.
Sweet Red Bean Paste: the film DIRECTED BY NAOMI KAWASE
The Catalan cream recipe THE BEST DESSERT OF THE YEAR The Catalan Cream is a creme seemed at crème brulée in French. It is rich, creamy and melts in your mouth. Just before serving, it is traditional in Catalonia to place a heated iron with a spiral shape to brown and caramelize the top of the crema catalana. If your kitchen equipment doesn’t include a spiral-shaped hot iron, don’t worry! Simply caramelize the sugar under the broiler of your oven. It’s really nice anytime. The ingredients are milk, eggs, sugar, cinnamon, lemon, orange, vanilla pod and sweet cornflour. Place a heated iron with a spiral shape to brown and simply caramelize the sweet brown sugar and enjoy it with aromes.
Naomi Kawase is a Japanese film director. Many of her works have been documentaries, including Embracing and Katatsumori, about the grandmother who raised her. Kawase’s cinema has been the unspoken bond between man and his environment, characteristic for deliberate rhythms and organic naturalism. Though based on a novel written by Sukegawa, this film, by with food here serving as the beauty of nature. The film is around themes of freedom and suggesting that embracing our sensory experiences, a sensorial film.
Dark sweet chocolate
Eggs: White or yellow?
MINERALS, ZINC, AND SELENIUM
WHITE ARE NOT EASY TO FIND ANYWHERE
Dark chocolate is loaded with nutrients that can positively affect your health. Made from the seed of the coca tree, it is one of the best sources of antioxidants on the planet. Studies show that dark chocolate, not the sugary crap, can improve health and lower the risk of heart disease. If you buy quality chocolate with a high cocoa content, then it is actually quite nutritious. It contains a decent amount of soluble fiber and is loaded with minerals, potassium, phosphorus, zinc and selenium and It contains a decent amount of soluble fiber, It contains a decent amount of soluble fiber. Dark, sweet and full of minerals and flavour.
In 60s, white eggs were all you could find: the white producing breeds were more efficient layers. What happened to white eggs? Over time, consumers aquired the perception they were like white bread, while brown eggs were almost exotic, shown off like jewels priced accordingly. As somene who grew up keeping chickens. As someone who grew up white leghorns laid white eggs and Rhode Island reds laid brown. What happened to eggs? Laid by leghorns, and organic at that. Maybe in years the new rustic. happened to eggs? Try to discover the diferences. Laid by leghorns, and organic at that. A curiosity to discover the new rustic. MERENGUE
3
LEFTLOVERS AFFOGATO with crumbled amaretti biscuits
4
MERENGUE
Affogato, a simple dessert Simple classics have a strongest impact on their audiences Words Maruchi Petúnia
S
implicity is often the king when it comes to food. Back when I was cheffing, however people paid for complexity because they didn’t want something that looked like it could be made at home. For this reason almost all restaurants often use elaborate, obscure ingredients, piled up loftily to give an impression of superiority. What most chefs eventually realise, that it’s the simple classics that have the strongest impact on their audiences, which is certainly the case with Italian food. Although there are plenty of classics to pick from, there are few more impressive than the humble affogato. It’s almost the definition of minimum effort for maximum reward, which just adds to the fall-in-love happiness thaat this dish delivers every time it’s served. All that’s involved is drenching a couple of scoops of vanilla ice cream with a beautiful cup of strong coffee, hence the name “affogato”, which means “drowned”. It’s the ultimate rule-of-opposites dish, made with deep, dark-roast espresso and simple white vanilla ice cream, a yin-yang culinary affair, resulting in a moment of instant bliss. It’s easy to marvel at the sheer effortlessness of it all with that first spoonful, and wonder why everything good in life can’t be this easy. Now, a cautionary note should be added here , when a dish is this simple, people or, more often than not, chefs, tend to mess around with it. This can be disastrous, but it can also work wonders. In fact, although I would usually warn against tampering with classics and administer punishments where appropriate, in the affogato’s case, I’m prepared to make allowances. The dish almost screams out for a little bit of attention, and as the ice cream and
hot coffee are both smooth, the whole thing could benefit little texture and contrast, meaning that crunch is your friend here. In my recipe I make a pecan and roast coffee bean brittle using lightly roasted Arabica beans, but something easier would be just as effective. Roasted almonds, hazelnuts, amaretti or biscotti biscuits, crushed and sprinkled on top, would go down equally well. Taste it. The chef uses leftover dessert in his affogato recipe, the perfect way to use up chocolate mousse, tart, pie, chocolate mousse, tart, pie, chocolate mousse, tart, pie, chocolate mousse, tart, pie, pudding, chocolate mousse, tart, pie, or anything else you have to hand. You can use cups, glasses or litt-
Ice cream & hot coffee are both smooth, the whole thing could benefit little texture and contrast
MERENGUE
5
AFFOGATO COLLECTION different presentations
le bowls to make this one – just place the leftovers into the bottom of each, add the ice cream, and pour over the coffee. The last important note on this is about the coffee. Very simply, don’t use the instant stuff – it just doesn’t have the depth of flavour needed to cope with the ice cream. It just doesn’t have the depth of flavour needed to cope. I would suggest proper espresso, as I love the crema that forms on the top, but strong coffee from a stovetop mocha pot or cafetiere will do the job nicely. It’s that simple. Grab your ice cream, your coffee, your crunch, and surrender to it. The dish almost screams out for a little bit of attention, and as the ice cream and hot coffee are both smooth, the whole thing could benefit little texture and contrast, meaning that crunch is your friend here. Arabica beans, but something little easier would be just as effective. Known worldwide as the original iced coffee, the Mazagran was brought back from North Africa to France in the 19th Century. It quickly became popular in the coffee houses of Paris, and was the first European coffee to be served in tall, narrow glasses. Simply brew your espresso nice and strong and serve over ice with a glass of lemon-spiked ice-cold water. Mix to taste, and add a bit of lemon peel to
6
MERENGUE
garnish. Iced coffee has been a popular drink in Africa and Asia for centuries, but it’s only really made it big in the West over the last few years, initially made popular by a couple of American coffee giants and the explosion of London’s coffee scene. The recipes we’ve got here cover the whole spectrum, all the way from the traditionally brewed drinks of North Africa and Vietnam right up to the sugary, milky mixtures of the modern-day caffeine junkie – so load up those ice-trays and get brewing! Invented by accident, the frappé has since become a mainstay of Greek coffee culture. While the original recipe calls for instant coffee, this drink can be made equally well with chilled espresso. Chuck the coffee, water and ice into a shaker and go to town until you get a nice frothy consistency (adding a little sugar will give you a much nicer texture). Add milk to taste, but if you’re looking to go full-blown and make sure you go for the evaporated kind. Cold brew is everywhere. Strain, then add ice, milk and sugar to taste. Simple as. simple as. Plus.. The coffee should be brewed directly from a French drip press into a glass that’s a quarter with sweetened condensed milk. This mixture should then simply be poured over ice or use a nice, light espresso.
RECIPE INGREDIENTS • 120 ml double cream • 650 ml whole milk • 180 g unrened sugar • 45 g milk powder • 1 teaspoon cornour METHOD First, combine vanilla coconut milk in a pan, scorch milk by bringing it to the boil, then pop it in the freezer. Meanwhile soak yochia seeds in a splash of coconut milk until its reaches the consistency of frog spawnn, not the most appealing thing you’ve ever read in a recipe, but the main simlarity is unmistakable. The coffee should brewed directly from a drip press into a glass in a quarter full with sweet white condensed fresh fat milk.
45 minutes Difficulty: easy
AFFOGATO CRUNCH with crumbled amaretti biscuits
MERENGUE
7
ARTISAN ICE CREAM with strawberry and lemon
8
MERENGUE
An artisan ice cream recipe The history of gelato is rife with myths, some say it dates back to frozen desserts in Sicily, ancient Rome and Egypt. Words Giada di Laurentis
S
o with the weather warming up, pple to your batch too our recipe for dulce we’re thinking about making gor- de leche would work perfectly, or incorpogeous gelato at home, so we asked rate your gelato into a classic pudding. Unour friend Sophia from Nonna’s like conventional ice cream, you don’t need Gelato to show us how it’s done. Some peo- to use eggs, which means that gelato is reaple think that gelato is just the Italian word lly easy to make at home. Here is our recifor ice cream, but it isn’t. Gelato is so much pe for the traditional Italian flavour Fior better! Gelato is lighter than ice cream, as di Latte, which translates to “flower of miit traditionally contains milk rather than lk”. It’s a delicious milk gelato which we licream, and generally has only 4-8% fat com- ke to describe as the ultimate Mr. Whippy! pared to a minimum of 10% in ice cream. You’ll need an ice cream machine (don’t Air is a key factor in the churning stage worry, not a professional one), a probe ther– gelato tends to contain less air or “ove- mometer and a hand blender. Tip: if you’re rrun”, as it’s called in the business, which using a pre-freeze ice cream machine, make gives you a much denser and intensely fla- sure you’ve put the freezer bowl in the voured scoop. Unlike conventional ice freezer at least the night before. The great cream, you don’t need to use eggs, which thing about Fior di Latte is that it serves means that gelato is really easy to as the base. the freezer at least the make at home. Here is our recinight before. Tip: if you’re using With weather a pre-freeze ice cream machine pe for the traditional Italian flavour Fior di Latte, which trans- warming up, we Tip: if you’re using a pre-freeze lates to “flower of milk”. It’s a show you how to ice cream machine If you’re delicious milk gelato which we using a pre-freeze ice cream make a gelato like to describe as the ultimate machine, make sure you’ve put at home Mr. Whippy! You’ll need an ice the freezer bowl in the freezer cream machine (don’t worry, not a at least the night before. The great professional one), a probe thermometer thing about Fior di Latte is that it serves and a hand blender. Make sure you’ve put as the base. the freezer. Taste it, you deserthe freezer bowl in the freezer at least the ve something sweet, ice and enjoy it this night before. The great thing about Fior di summer. The great thing about Fior di LaLatte is that it serves as the base for man tte is that it serves as the base. the freezer at other avours. For example, to make a classic least the night before. If you’re using a prevanilla, simply infuse a vanilla pod in your freeze ice cream machine The great thing mix while pasteurising on the hob, and sie- about Fior di Latte is that it serves as the ve it out at stage six. The same can be do- base. The great thing about Fior di Latte is ne with mint leaves, then just throw some that it serves as the base. the freezer at least chocolate chips in towards the end of the the night before. using cream machine.. Air churn and you’ve got yourself a refreshing is a key factor in the churning stage. Taste mint, choc chip gelato! You could add a ri- it, share it, enjoy it.
RECIPE INGREDIENTS • 120 ml double cream • 550 ml whole milk • 180 g unrened sugar • 45 g milk powder • 1 teaspoon cornour METHOD First of all, combine vanilla coconut milk in a pan, scorch the milk by bringing it to the boil, then pop it in the freezer. Meanwhile soak the yochia seeds in a splash of coconut milk until its reaches the consistency of frog spawnn, not the most appealing thing you’ve ever read in a recipe, but the main simlarity is unmistakable. The coffee should brewed directly from a French drip press into a glass that’s a quarter full with sweet white condensed milk.
35 minutes Difficulty: easy
MERENGUE
9
The history of gelato is rife with myths, some say it dates back to frozen desserts in Sicily, ancient Rome and Egypt. Words Giada di Laurentis
G
elato is the Italian word for ice cream in an Italian style. Gelato is made with a base of milk, cream, and sugar, and flavored with fruit and nut purees and other flavorings. It is generally lower in fat, but higher in sugar, than other styles of ice cream. Gelato typically contains less air and more flavoring than other kinds of frozen desserts, giving it a density and richness that distinguishes it from other ice creams. The sugar in gelato is balanced with the water to act as an anti-freeze to prevent it from freezing solid. Types of sugar used include sucrose and inverted sugar to control apparent sweetness. Typically, gelato contains a stabilizer base. Commercial bases usually contain guar gum. In Italy, by law, gelato must have at least 3.5% butterfat. In the United States, there is no legal standard of definition for gelato, as there is for ice cream, which must contain at least 10% butterfat. The history of gelato is rife with myths and very little evidence to substantiate them. Some say it dates back to frozen desserts in Sicily, ancient Rome and Egypt made from snow and ice brought down from mountain tops and preserved below ground. Later, in 1686 the Sicilian fisherman Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli perfected the first ice cream machine. However, the popularity of gelato among larger shares of the population only
12
MERENGUE
increased in the 1920s–1930s in the northern Italian city of Varese, where the first gelato cart was developed. Italy is the only country where the market share of artisanal gelato versus industrial one is over 55%. Today, more than 5,000 modern Italian ice cream parlors employ over 15,000 people, mostly Italians. FrancWesco Procopio dei Coltelli perfected the first ice cream machine. However, the popularity of gelato among larger shares of the population only increased in the 1920s–1930s in the northern Italian city of Varese, where the first gelato cart was developed. Italy is the only country where the market share of artisanal gelato versus industrial one is over 55%. Nowadays, more than 5,000 modern Italian ice cream parlors employ over 15,000 italian people. The mixture for gelato is typically prepared using a hot process first, where the sugars need to dissolve. White base is heated to 85 °C (185 °F) completing a pasteurization program. The hot process to make chocolate gelato is essentially the same depending on recipes, it is meant to be traditionally flavored with cocoa powder. Typically, gelato contains a stabilizer base. Commercial bases usually contain guar gum. In Italy, by law, gelato must have at least 3.5% butterfat. In the United States, there is no legal standard of definition for gelato, as there is for ice cream, which must contain
Simple classics have a strongest impact on their audiences, which is the case with Italian food Simple classics have a strongest impact on their audiences, which is the case with Italian food
at least 10% butterfat. The history of gelato is rife with myths and very little evidence to substantiate them. Some say it dates back to frozen desserts in Sicily, ancient Rome and Egypt made from snow and ice brought down from mountaintops and preserved below ground. Later, in 1686 the Sicilian fisherman Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli perfected the first ice cream machine. However, the popularity of gelato among larger shares of the population only increased in the 1920s–1930s in the northern Italian city of Varese, where the first gelato cart was developed. Italy is the only country where the market share of artisanal gelato versus industrial one is over 55%. Today, more than 5,000 modern Italian ice cream parlors employ over 15,000 people, mostly Italians. Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli perfected the first ice cream machine. However, the popularity of gelato among larger shares of the population only increased in the 1920s–1930s in the northern Italian city of Varese, where the first gelato cart was developed. Italy is the only country where the market share of artisanal gelato versus industrial one is over 55%. Nowadays, more than 5,000 modern Italian ice cream parlors employ over 15,000 italian people. Typically, gelato contains a stabilizer base. Commercial bases usually contain guar gum. In Italy, by law, gelato must have at
MERENGUE
13
Popularity of gelato increased in the 1930s in the Italian city of Varese, where the first gelato was created
least 3.5% butterfat. In the United States, there is no legal standard of definition for gelato, as there is for ice cream, which must contain at least 10% butterfat. The history of gelato is rife with myths and very little evidence to substantiate them. Some say it dates back to frozen desserts in Sicily, ancient Rome and Egypt. Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli perfected the first ice cream machine. However, the popularity of gelato among larger shares of the population only increased in the 1920s–1930s in the northern Italian city of Varese, where the first gelato cart was developed. Italy is the only country where the market share of artisanal gelato versus industrial one is over 55%. Today, more than 5,000 modern Italian ice cream parlors employ over 15,000 people, mostly Italians. Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli perfected the first ice cream machine. However, the popularity of gelato among larger shares of the population only increased in the 1920s–1930s in the northern Italian city of Varese, where the first gelato cart was developed. Italy is the only country where the market share of artisanal gelato versus industrial one is over 55%. Nowadays, more than 5,000 modern Italian ice cream parlors employ over 15,000 italian people. Typically, gelato contains a stabilizer the United States, there is no for gelato, ice cream. Eat Gelato and be happy.
14
MERENGUE
FIRST ICE CREAM FOOD TRACK
MERENGUE
15
A DESSERT MAGAZINE
NUMBER 2 9 00220574 1357
057
SPRING
A DESSERT MAGAZINE
Meringue pie
Dessert of the year
Fresh & seasonal Original recipes
NUMBER 3 9 00220574 1357
057
SUMMER