Punahkriti by Anjali Jain

ECO PRINTING THE GLOWING COLOURS FROM THE PLANT WORLD

What I have today itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a gift by the Nature and what I do with what i have is my gift to Nature.

DECLERATION This is to certify that the final graduation project named : “Punahkriti ” is a bonafide work of Anjali jain in partial fullfillment of the degree in Textile design for fashion and interiors (2013-2017) to Pearl Academy, New Delhi.

Ms. Sakshi Babbar Paul (Faculty - Textile department) Mentor

Anjali jain TDFI(2013 - 2017) DTDFI13677

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I am delighted to thank everyone who has been a part of this beautiful and eventful four years of my life at Pearl. It has been a journey worth remembering. To add to this the graduation project experience has been even tremendous which gave me an insight into various factors for sourcing and design interpretation. I am thankful to my faculty members, especially to my mentor Ms Sakshi Babbar Paul, whose vision and faith has made me stronger whenever i have fallen short. She has been the perfect friend and guide throughout the journey.

I am grateful to those who have given me their time, valuable facts, opinions and energy with such good grace. I would like to thank all the respondent who helped me for my project by providing me required knowledge. I am really thankful to Ms. Oveja Alegra and to salkimi creations who really help me alot in my project. I am thankful to my friends and family for their love, support and motivation. I would like to express my sincere gratitude to all those who have helped me in this successful completion of my Final Project.

Contents SYNOPSIS INSPIRATION MIND MAPPING CONCEPT CLIENT PROFILE THEMES NATIVE OBJECT PUNAHKRITI FINAL PRODUCT SHOOT AND COSTINGSHEET REFERENCING

9 11 12 13 15 17 19 25 49 61

The final semester for this course is dedicated to a project which involves the whole process from making look boards to framing themes, market surveys, initial sketches, design process, prorotype making, final product and cost analysis of the product framed.

Synopsis My graduation project has been concluded as Eco Printing; which have a love towards waste things in nature. It involves the creative experiences I had during the designing of my collection which is the most crucial learning and to find the process to create the impression.

For my final collection i had a thought in my mind for doing something related to the waste material like flowers, leaves and rustic objects.

Textile design as a specialisation is offered by Pearl Academy, New Delhi that reuses on creating practical and innovative textiles for home, apparel and lifestyle products. The curriculum spans for over eight semesters culminating our technological knowledge, design aesthetics and market senstivity to nurture the flair for designing innovative textiles.

The second theme was Punahkriti; in this i have used all the waste flowers and leaves which is wasted in temples, decorations and in bouquets. In this fabric used are also organic and natural and protein fabric, basically in this i have used variety of natural as well as protein fabrics.

The first theme i drew was Native Object. Which means the object which are wasted in nature like rustic iron. And plus in this i have used wax to make motifs and then dye with rustic objects. So, in this i have incorporated two things and make samples out of it. And in this i have used all organic and natural fabrics.

1) Benedetto Jones, K. (2012). ombre-leaves-fall-wedding - once wed. [image] Available at: https://in.pinterest.com/pin/55661745374575246/ [Accessed 29 Apr. 2017]. 9

Inspiration

once occured rust tells cannot be removed a story

mechnical nuts

ageing

non - direction each picture nails will have a story rust trail RUST DYE

native earth

steamer

textile vegetable

vinegar

berry

pigment printing

2) Kay Sadler, M. (2012). DUTCH MASTERS WEDDING INSPIRATION. [image] Available at: https://in.pinterest.com/pin/503769908305902416/ [Accessed 11 Nov. 2016]. 3) Kay Sadler, M. (2017). Style wedding. [image] Available at: https://in.pinterest.com/pin/566820303078859515/ [Accessed 21 Nov. 2016].

paper

plant

alum salt

collecting pictures of rusting object

Flower PRINTING

impression wood

re-use of flowers which is wasted in temples and all iron utenciles purple cabbage

eco friendly

natural dye

hidden colour skin friendly

rainbow of decay like a choosy artist

unpredictable

experiences

flowers

free flow

fruits

old to new

ECO PRINTING

slow killer

bark

rust never sleeps

freshness

dye with pigments of natural things floral look

stems 12

Concept

The ancient craft of dyeing was practised by most early civilisations. Long before the advent of chemical dyes, people all over the world relied solely on nature to provide them with sources of colour.

Nowadays, when concern for the environment has become important. asted in nature like lots of flowers are wasted iron rods are wasted which create pollution in a way. So, i am using those things which are wasted in nature and making new prints and patterns out of it.

Natural dyeing is gradually becoming rarer in many of the countries where it once flourished, so craft dyers in the western world have an important part to play in ensuring that the skills are kept alive.

The joy of natural colours is that it is never boring. The excitment of finding, using and perhaps even growing our own dyestuffs never fades, nor the fun of creating endless variations of natural colour.

Not every plant which produces a colour in the dyebath or on material will necessarily turn out to be a reliable or fast dyestuff. Natural dyes are much better for the enviroment.

For those who love to do yoga as well

CLIENT PROFILE

slow fashion

flower impression

nature lover

rustic look

monochromatic flowers tropical

reuse things

leaves

sustainable

30 to 40 age group

self employed

allergic to chemical dyes For those who are pratice meditation

love for organic things floral overlay

Meditation because in this people wants to wear or surrounding would be organic. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s i made which is organic and sustainable things.

Pinterest. (2017). Pinterest. [online] Available at: https://in.pinterest.com/ search/pins/?q=floral%20face&rs=typed&term_meta[]=floral%7Ctyped&term_meta[]=face%7Ctyped [Accessed 25 Dec. 2016]. 15

NATIVE OBJECT - Belonging nature inherent

PUNAHKRITI -

to a

Waste Flowers

Eco Printing With

NATIVE OBJECT - Belonging to a nature inherent

Facts about Rust Rust is a murderer of sorts, but he kills eloquently, elegantly. He is the arch seducer, the decay is long and leisurely, as if he enjoys the gradual decline of his victims.

Material used: rustic object, vinegar, thread, wax. Fabric used: 100% Pure Cotton

Samples of NATIVE OBJECT

Rust adds a look of experience and provenance to things and yet is reviled or feared. Perhaps a nod in the direction of our innate and human abhorrence of ageing. Rust tells stories.

Material used: rustic object, vinegar, thread, wax. Fabric used: 100% Pure Cotton

Rust isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always predictable nestled in the red zone of the spectrum. It dips in and out of the rainbow of decay like a choosy artist. For me, finding purpled rust is like hitting gold. A savage drip of black oxidation, always a surprise.

Material used: rustic object, vinegar, thread, wax. Fabric used: 100% Silk

Material used: rustic object, vinegar, thread, wax. Fabric used: Green coloured Cotton Material used: rustic object, vinegar, thread wax. Fabric used: 100% Pure Cotton

Material used: rustic object, vinegar, thread. Fabric used: Glass nylon

PUNAHKRITI -

Eco Printing With Waste Flowers

Market Research

There are some designers and 2 or 3 brands who are working on same technique. Brands like Dosa and india Flint. And designers like oveja alegre and Cara Marie Piazza.

* calyx (2009). lookbook. [image] Available at: http://www.calyxnyc.com/img/lookbook/ calyx-lookbook-02.jpg [Accessed 6 Nov. 2016]. * Alegre, O. (2016). Eco print algodón Bambú la - hojas de gravillea. [image] Available at: https://scontent.fdel1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.09/15665714_1832003023722563_6162945294641688184_n.jpg?oh=78a1c6ec82841d3f23d761cd09f5957c&oe=597F5438 [Accessed 16 Jan. 2017]. * India Flint (2015). [image] Available at: Alegre, O. (2016). Eco print algodón Bambú la - hojas de gravillea. [image] Available at: https://scontent.fdel1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/15665714_1832003023722563_6162945294641688184_n.jpg?oh=78a1c6ec82841d3f23d761cd09f5957c&oe=597F5438 [Accessed 16 Jan. 2017]. [Accessed 1 May 2017]. 27

A word PUNAHKRITI derive from hindi word,PUNAH means ‘again’ and KRITI means ‘creation’. So, word Punahkriti symbolise to re-use things. I work with a series of different florists. I wasn’t collect real flowers but they would typically go in the garbage or which create pollution. Natural dyes are better for the environment. Whole life cycle of a garment i think a lot of people don’t think about it, i think your first step into becoming a more sustainable consumer is to ask questions. How much water used to make a garment? Don’t throw your garment away! Recycle them! Give it a new life or donate it! When we have a better relationship with nature in the past, this knowledge wasn’t foreign to us. It’s come back now. And that’s why i want to re-use things rather than wasted it. And the beauty of something unique that you can have for life that’s kind of change and become something else. It’s something that you can worn as a piece of art. Sometimes it’s just nice to feel something that was dyed with nature and that was made with love. 29

Every year approximately 80, 00,000 tons of waste flowers are dumped into the rivers in India choking them to death. Through this our holy rivers get polluted. We always blame the industrial waste but never gives a think about the flower waste.

Collecting garlands

PROCESS

1)Collecting the garlands from temple to temple. As in this picture pandit ji taking of the garlands.

separate flowers

2)Now after the collection of garlands we have to separate the flowers according to colour. 3)Now after this we have to dip fabric into hot alum water mix with soapnuts and shikakai. So that the starch of a fabric is washed away or side by side we start mordanting. Or we can wash the fabric with washing soda and then boil fabric into alum water. 4)After the mordanting is done, then we have to place the petals or flowers or leaves according to pattern as i have shown in the picture. Or in short scattering and folding petals into the fabric.

Steam the sample

5)Now, we have to steam the fabric for some time. So that the pigment of a flower get transfed onto the fabric completely.

Dip fabric in alum water

6)Now untied the fabric after it get dry completely on its own.

Scattering snd folding 4

Colours and what are their significance..

4) SOLANKI, D. (2016). An Indian girl plays amid marigold flowers at a wasted flowers dumping site, besides a flower market in Mumbai. [image] Available at: http://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s480x480/e35/14374291_1778092985781259_219469699 0829314048_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTM1MDY2NDQ3MjYzMzUxNTAyMA%3D%3D.2 [Accessed 30 Mar. 2017]. 35

Pink flowers

Red flowers DAISY

HIBISCUS

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an indisputable energy to the color red -an energy that has the power to transform an otherwise unassuming flowers into the essence of desire, strength and passionate love. With beauty, courage and heat as its symbolism, its no surprise that a bouquet filled with rich, red blooms knows no restraint.

Think pink and you think of grace, gentility and happiness. Regardless of the shape of the flower from the tight, small buds of a pink garden rose to the delicate, open petals of pink caellia in full bloom pink blossoms conveys youth, innocent and joy.

PEONY

CARNATION

HIBISCUS

ROSE DAHILA

ROSE

Bishop, J. (2017). Wedding Budget Tip #16: Choose in-season flowers | The Budget Savvy Bride. [online] The Budget Savvy Bride. Available at: http://thebudgetsavvybride.com/ choose-in-season-flowers/#_a5y_p=3126042 [Accessed 30 Jan. 2017].

Orange flowers

Yellow flowers

LILY

ZINNIA

IRIS

Sending a seasonal spring plant is a appropriate gesture to send to a grieving family. It can be enjoyed indoors and when they feel upto it they can plant it in their garden. This hardy plant that will grow in almost any soil that is kept moist, and the mophead hydrangeas will continue to bloom for many years. The hydrageas is a gift to thanks in repayments for understanding and is given as a gesture of heartfelt sincerity.

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good reason why it can feel all but impossible to retain from smiling when you spot a bouquet of bright daffodils or a pot filled with sun-denched chrysan themums (mums)- the yellow color evokes feeling of joys and lightheartedness. Also a symbol of friendship, a bouquet bursting with yellow blossoms sends a message of new beginnings and happiness.

CARNATION

ROSE

DAISY

MARIGOLD

DAISY

Blue flowers

Purple flowers

PERENNIAL

SCABIOSA

FLAX

CARNATION

The pale blue hues of a deep blue of an iris can calm worries and preoccupation representation peace, openness, and serenity, fresh floral arrangements filled with blue flowers offers a cooling antidote to anxiouness.

Witn its origins tied to royalty and ceremony, purple flowers represent dignity, pride and sucess. Whether grouped or alone in a bold range of rich hues or mixed in with other colors to provide depth and contrast, an arrangement filled with purple blooms represents accomplishment and admiration.

IRIS

ORCHID

ROSE

Anemone

Green flowers

White flowers

CARNATION

ROSE

ZINNIA

DAISY Synonymous with nature and the perfect complementary to any bloom the color green represents health, resilience, a good fortune and youth whether used to throw together a diverse mixture of shapes and hues or a restful tone on tone bouquet, green flower sends a message of optimism and renewal.

Often associated with innocence, humility and reverence, white flowers evoke simple beauty. Whether they take their shape as the luxurious, silk petals of fragrance gardenias, the small white bells of lily of the valley, or the quiet drama of a drama of a dozen white flowers or roses, fresh floral arrangement dominated by white blossoms conveys modesty and elegance.

MUMS

LILY

ROSE

DAFFODIL

Artworks for Screen printing

Samples of PUNAHKRITI

Material used: Alum, marigold petal, carnation flower, thread, soapnuts and shikakai. Fabric used: 100% organic bamboo

Material used: Alum, rose petal (scratch petals with hands),soapnuts and shikakai. Fabric used: Cotton cambric

Material used: Alum, Marigold petal,thread, Anchor thread, flowers patch, soapnuts and shikakai. Fabric used: 100% Cotton Material used: Alum, rose petal paste, screen printing, stems, soapnuts and shikakai. Fabric used: Cotton cambric

Material used: Alum, marigold petal, thread, soapnuts and shikakai. Fabric used: 100% pure silk 47

Material used: Alum, full rose, thread, soapnuts and shikakai. Fabric used: 100% organic Bamboo

Material used: Alum, rose petal paste, rubber bands, soapnuts and shikakai. Fabric used: Cotton cambric

Material used: Alum, rose petal,soapnuts and shikakai. Fabric used: Peach cotton cambric

Material used: vinegar, leaves, iron utencil, iron water. Fabric used: 100% pure silk

Final Product Shoot and Costing

Blooming everyday

FABRIC

FRONT Cotton handwoven Wastage BACK/PIPING Cotton handwoven Wastage sleeve 2 Cotton handwoven Wastage

Fabric used: Handwoven Cotton fabric.

TOTAL

Material used: Marigold flowers petals, Rose flower petals dry as well as fresh which is also 2 to 3 days old.

CMT

Modrant used: Alum

LPG

Avg

METER

0.75 5% 0.75 5% 0.5 5%

0.79

RATE

250.00

TOTAL RS

0.79

250.00

196.88

0.53

250.00

131.25

525.00

DESCRIPTION 2MTR 2MTR

Stitching Cutting

196.88

AMOUNT RS

350 150

Hand work Dyeing Vinegar

75 grams 10 seeds (Rs. 4 each)

Alum Soapnut

10 seeds (Rs. 3 each) 1 1

Shikakai (Acacia concinna) Stitching thread Thread to tie

15 units(24 per unit)

Travelling Finishing

Other material used: Soapnuts Shikakai (Acacia concinna)

12 40 30 5 10 360 50 50

Packing

Other

TOTAL TOTAL COST INHOUSE Mark up 100% Mark up 150% Mark up 200% FOB with mark up 100% FOB with mark up 150% FOB with mark up 200%

1057 1582 3164 3955 7910 4746 5537 7492

FABRIC

Avg

FRONT milk fabric Wastage BACK milk fabric Wastage

Momâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sonflowers

0.5 0% 0.5 0%

METER 0.50

RATE

300.00

TOTAL RS

0.50

300.00

150.00

TOTAL

300.00 DESCRIPTION

CMT

150.00

Stitching

AMOUNT RS

Cutting

Fabric used: Organic milk fabric with different weave.

Hand work Dyeing Vinegar

75 grams 10 seeds (Rs. 4 each)

Alum Soapnut

10 seeds (Rs. 3 each) 1 1

Shikakai (Acacia concinna)

Material used: Sunflower flowers petals,Carnation flower petals dry as well as fresh which is also 2 to 3 days old.

Stitching thread Thread to tie LPG

15 units(24 per unit)

Travelling Finishing

12 40 30 5 10 360 50 50

Packing

Other

TOTAL

Modrant used: Alum

TOTAL COST INHOUSE Mark up 100% Mark up 150% Mark up 200%

Other material used: Soapnuts and Shikakai (Acacia concinna)

FOB with mark up 100% FOB with mark up 150% FOB with mark up 200%

677 977 1954 2442.5 4855 2931 3419.5 5862

FABRIC

Avg

FRONT milk fabric Wastage BACK milk fabric Wastage

0.5 0% 0.5 0%

METER 0.50

RATE

300.00

TOTAL RS

0.50

300.00

150.00

TOTAL

300.00 DESCRIPTION

CMT

AMOUNT RS

Stitching

Petal Power

150.00

Cutting Hand work Dyeing Vinegar

Fabric used: Organic milk fabric with different weave.

75 grams 10 seeds (Rs. 4 each)

Alum Soapnut

10 seeds (Rs. 3 each) 1 1

Shikakai (Acacia concinna) Stitching thread Thread to tie

Material used: Dry rose petals, and at the beck side i have used fresh marigold.

LPG

15 units(24 per unit)

Travelling Finishing

12 40 30 5 10 360 100 50

Packing

Other

Modrant used: Alum

TOTAL

Other material used: Soapnuts and Shikakai (Acacia concinna)

TOTAL COST INHOUSE Mark up 100% Mark up 150% Mark up 200% FOB with mark up 100% FOB with mark up 150% FOB with mark up 200%

727 1027 2054 2567.5 5135 3081 3594 6162

FABRIC

FRONT pure silk Wastage BACK pure silk Wastage

Sunshine Florist

Avg 1 0% 1 0%

METER 1.00

RATE

300.00

TOTAL RS

1.00

300.00

TOTAL

600.00 DESCRIPTION

CMT

300.00

AMOUNT RS

Stitching Cutting Hand work

Fabric used: 100% pure silk

Dyeing Vinegar

200ml

1 1

5 10 360 50 50

Alum Soapnut

Material used: leaves

Shikakai (Acacia concinna) Stitching thread Thread to tie LPG

Modrant used: Vinegar

15 units(24 per unit)

Travelling Finishing Packing

Other

Other material used: iron water.

TOTAL TOTAL COST INHOUSE Mark up 100% Mark up 150% Mark up 200% FOB with mark up 100% FOB with mark up 150% FOB with mark up 200%

550 1150 2300 2530 4600 3450 3680 5750

Referencing

• Feldberg, W.“RUST DYEING: Corrosion To Creation” FIBERWebsite ARTNOW. Retrieved 15 Apr. 2017 from http://fiberartnow.net/ • Bashō, M., 2014 Temple Blessings wp-content/uploads/2015/04/rustdosa, Retrieved March 14,2017 spring15-.pdf from http://dosainc.com/special• Gladys Paulus 2013 Learning projects/temple-blessings to eco print - GLADYS PAULUS • Driessen, k., Early Use Of Retrieved December 13, 2016, • Natural Dyes in Textiles Quilt from http://www.gladyspaulus. history.com Retrieved September co.uk/learning-eco-print/ 29, 2016 from http://www.quilth• Handprintingguiderajasthan. istory.com/dye.htm in,Appendix 4: About natu• Drye, N. profile, 2017 Eco-Printral dyes. Retrieved April 10, ing Nandrye.com Retrieved March 2017 from http://www.handprint7, 2017 from http://www.nandrye. ingguiderajasthan.in/appencom/p/eco-printing.html dix-4-about-natural-dyes/ • Dye Plants For Eco Printing And • India Flint – colour from leaves Eco Dyeing 2014 Threadborne n.d., India Flint - home padRetrieved 10 Dec. 2016 from dock. Retrieved March 18, 2017 https://wendyfe.wordpress.com/ from http://www.indiaflint.com/ plants-for-eco-dyeing-and-ecopage7.htm printing/ • Eco Print 2012 Nicola Brown Fine • Noserialnumber.org 2015. Story of leaves. Retrieved March 5, Art Textiles Retrieved May 10, 2017 from http://noserialnumber. 2016 from https://clasheen.com/ org/story-of-leaves/ tag/eco-print/ • Palange, F, 2015 Eco Print and • Eco Printing On Fabric Take 1 Fine Art From Argentina. Nose- Fiberartsy.Com, 2017. Fiberrialnumber.org. Retrieved April Artsy.com Retrieved January 23, 10, 2017 from http://noserial2017 from http://www.fiberartsy. number.org/eco-print-and-feltcom/eco-printing-fabric/#wrap art-from-argentina/

• Pinterest 2017 Eco Retrieved April 1, 2017 from https://in.pinterest.com/kathyhaysdesign/ eco/ • Ross, C, 2014 How To Rust Dye Fabrics Sew Obsessed Retrived 6 Dec. 2016 from http:// sewobsessed.offsetwarehouse. com/2015/06/17/how-to-rust-dyefabrics/ • Rust Dyeing, 2014 Instructables. com. Retrieved 18 Apr. 2016 from http://www.instructables.com/id/ Rust-Dyeing/ • Singh, T. 2017 Waste to Valuable: Used Flowers in Religious Shrines Are given a New Life by These 2 Friends The Better India. http://www.thebetterindia. com/45310/helpusgreen-organic-products-flower-waste/ (16 Jan. 2017) • Sipe, R., 2016 “Rust Dyeing Fabric - Hobby Farms” Retrieved 20 Apr. 2016 from http://www.hobbyfarms.com/rust-dyeing-fabric-3/ • Teleflora.com 2017 Flower Color Meanings & Symbolism Teleflora. Retrieved April 10, 2017 from http://www.teleflora.com/floral-fact/flower-color-meaning

• Threadborne 2016 From Byopia Press: How To Make A Heart Bookmark Retrieved October 11, 2016 from https://wendyfe.wordpress. com/ • Threadborne Dye Colour for Eco Prints Retrieved February 5, 2017 from https://wendyfe.wordpress.com/dye-colours-for-ecoprints/ • Threadborne Reference for Eco Dyeing and Native Plants Retrieved February 5, 2017 from https://wendyfe.wordpress.com/ natural-dye-references/ • Threadborne Tutorials Retrieved February 5, 2017 from https:// wendyfe.wordpress.com/tutorial-leaf-monoprinting-by-cassandra-tondro/

Books

• Balfour-Paul, J. 2011, Indigo, British Museum Press, London • Cannon, J. Cannon ,M and Daldy-Quenet G. 2002 Dye plants and dyeing. Kew: A&C Black: Royal botanic garden, London • Cardon, D. 2007, Archetype Publications Ltd, London • Cook, J. 2007, Natural Dyeing, Octopus Publishing Group, London. • Dean, J. 1994, The Craft Of Natural Dyeing, Search Press, Tunbridge Wells. • Fereday, G. 2003, Natural Dyes, British Museum Press, London. • The bundle book by India flint 2014, Prophet of Bloom, Australia. • Warren, W. 1997, Tropical Garden Plants, Thames and hudson Ltd., London.