Ahoi
Seaside sweaters
lookbook
by ANKESTRiCK
Translation: Leslie Kuo Photos of the designs on Juist: Caren Buttke (and my dad (page 1)) Layout, text, photos, design and patterns: Anke Wulffen ŠANKESTRiCK, Anke Wulffen, Berlin 2016 For personal use only. Do not reproduce, translate or sell the patterns, or sell items that are knitted from these patterns, without permision.
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Ahoi
Seaside sweaters
by ANKESTRiCK
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Juist elemental
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This book
is dedecated to Juist, a small island in Germany in the North Sea. Juist is called the “biggest sandbank in the world”, because there is (almost) nothing other than the basic elements: wind, water and – sand! Juist is probably the first love of my life. Whenever I have the chance to go back again (ever since I was 2 years old), I’m thrilled by the force of the elements and how they touch your soul through your eyes, your skin, your nose and your ears. I had all the designs for this collection in my mind for a long time. And they all tell about my longing for this little island. For the colors, the rhythm of the tides and the seemingly endless vastness, welcoming you to feel one with it. The first piece of the collection Clam, I knit mostly at the beach. There is still some sand trickling out ...
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Natural colors
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Ahoi sweaters
Clam
Clam is a long pullover or tunic with thoughtful details and pockets to collect sea shells! It was deeply inspired by the beauty of the striped shells I found at the beach on Juist.
Juist, Kurhaus and Wasserturm (water tower)
Surf
Surf is a pullover with irregular stripes and looong sleeves, showing the beauty of the variegated yarns and natural colors. It was deeply inspired by staring at the neverending waves breaking on the beach on Juist.
Dune
Dune is a cropped cardigan with cute little details, light and airy enough to carry along on a long walk at the
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seaside. It was deeply inspired by the waving beach grass of the dunes of Juist.
Salt
Salt is a long cardigan with pockets and a detachable hood, which you can button on or off depending on the strength of the breeze at the seaside! Salt tells about the wind and salty air of Juist.
Cruise
Cruise is a sweatigan and a wonderful layering piece, for example, for when you criss-cross the sea on the ferry to Juist.
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Clam is missing in this photo, because I was still working on it.
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Pattern collection Clam tunic Surf sweater Dune cardigan Salt cardigan
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Cruise sweatigan 46
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Duck clam (family Mactridae)
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In every pocket
I find shells I collected. At home in Berlin, they are proof that this island really exists. I didn’t dream the long walks along the beach, even if I did forget time and space as I walked. Some shells don’t really feel at ease in Berlin, but this clam remains with me.
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Clam
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Clam Tunic
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Clam Tunic
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Clam
is worked seamlessly in rounds in one piece from the top down. After the collar is worked, the yoke is shaped by increases for body and sleeves and additional radial increases to the sleeve separation. The sleeve stitches are then placed on hold, underarm stitches are cast on, and you continue to work the body with A-line shaping to the pockets and onwards to the bottom ribbing. After the body is completed, sleeve stitches are placed back on the needles to be worked top-down in the round. Please note: the sweater is worked in stockinette stitch throughout and then turned inside out before finishing the pockets. It is meant to be worn showing the reverse stockinette side. You can keep that in mind when joining new yarn: either leave the ends on the stockinette side or pull the threads through afterwards.
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) Finished bust circumference: (cm): 88 (96, 101, 108, 117, 124) (inch): 34.65 (37.8, 39.8, 42.5, 46, 48.8) The sweater is best worn with approx. (4 cm) (1.6 in) of positive ease at the bust. GAUGE 24 sts x 34 rs/rds = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in in stripe pattern on main needle Tip: to swatch in stripe pattern flat see special techniques MATERIALS - 5 stitch markers - Waste yarn or stitch holder
NEEDLES Main needle: A circular needle size to obtain gauge. Suggested size: 3,25 mm (US 3) circular needle A corresponding size smaller to main needle. Suggested size: 3 mm (US 2.5) circular needle or DPNs. For the sleeves: DPNs (or longer circular needle for magic loop) in main needle size. YARN Shown in Frida Fuchs, Etepetete (80% Merino wool, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon), 365m (399yds) in Size S. Main Color (MC/white): Mรถnchspfeffer, Contrast Color (CC/ black): Vanilleschote APPROX. YARN REQUIREMENTS Number of skeins of each color of Etepetete: 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) Or m/yds of each color approx: 520/570 (640/700, 760/830, 920/1005, 1050/1150, 1170/1280) of a similar yarn.
FINAL MEASUREMENTS
cm a: 44 (48, 51, 54, 58,5, 62) b: 19 (20, 22, 23, 24, 25.5) c: 26 (28,5, 30, 33,5, 36, 40) d: 49 (53, 57,5, 62, 67, 72) e: +/- 34 for all sizes f: +/- 16 for all sizes
Inch a: 17.3 (18.9 20, 21.25, 23, 24.4) b: 7.5 (7.9, 8.7, 9, 9.4, 10) c: 10.2 (11.3, 11.8, 13.2, 14.2, 15.7) d: 19.3 (20.9, 22.6, 24.4, 26.3, 28.3) e: +/- 13.4 for all sizes f: +/- 6.3 for all sizes
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Beach access walkway and Meyenburg beach chair rental
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The beach-chair rental man and I went to work
every day at about the same time. He went to rent out beach chairs and I went to my beach chair to knit stripes and look out at the surf. While making his rounds, the beach chair man also passed my beach chair and he said: “Ah, knit two, purl two!” and I answered: “Ha, yeah, but without the purl.” Then he asked every day if his sweater was done yet. He always wore street shoes and socks in the deep sand.
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Surf
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Surf Sweater
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Surf sweater
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Surf
is worked seamlessly in rounds in one piece from the top down. After the collar, the yoke is shaped by increases for body and sleeves and additional radial increases until the sleeve separation. The sleeve stitches are then placed on hold, underarm stitches are cast on, and you continue to work the body with waist shaping to the bottom ribbing. After the body is completed, sleeve stitches are placed back on the needles to be worked top-down in the round.
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) Finished bust circumference: (cm): 88 (96, 104, 110, 118, 125) (inch): 34.65 (37.75, 41, 43.25, 46.5, 49.25) See the detailed measurements below. The sweater is best worn with approx. (4 cm) (1.6 in) of positive ease at the bust. GAUGE 23 sts x 32 rs/rds = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in in stripe pattern on main needle, blocked Tip: to swatch in stripe pattern flat, see special techniques MATERIALS - 5 stitch markers - Waste yarn or stitch holder
NEEDLES Main needle: A circular needle size to obtain gauge. Suggested size: 3,25 mm circular needle A corresponding size smaller to main needle. Suggested size: 3 mm circular needle or DPNs. For the sleeves: DPNs (or longer circular needle for magic loop) in main needle size. YARN Shown in Tosh Merino Light (100% Merino wool), 384m (420yds) in Size S. Main Color (MC/white): Antler Contrast Color (CC/green): Fir Wreath Works best in a variegated color for CC and a matching color for MC. APPROX. YARN REQUIREMENTS Number of skeins (each color) of Tosh Merino Light: 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) Or m/yds (each colo)r: 520/570 (620/680, 740/810, 900/985, 1030/1130, 1150/1260) of a similar yarn.
FINAL MEASUREMENTS
cm a: 44 (48, 52, 55, 59, 62,5) b: 19 (20, 22, 24, 25, 25.5) c: 26 (28,5, 30,5, 33, 36, 40) d: 44 (49, 53, 56,5, 61, 64) e: +/- 40 for all sizes
Inch a: 17.25 (18.9, 20.5, 21.65, 23.25, 24.5) b: 7.5 (7.9, 8.75, 9.5, 9.8, 10) c: 10.25 (11.25, 12, 13, 14.25, 15.75) d: 17.25 (19.25, 20.75, 22.25, 24, 25.25) e: +/- 15.75 for all sizes
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When I was little, you went to the café Domäne Bill by foot. It’s a long
trek of about 16km, there and back. If you walked there along the mudflats of the Wadden Sea, the path got narrower and narrower and went right through sheep and cow pastures, and like Emil in the Astrid Lindgren stories, you always had to make sure to shut the gates tight. That was very exciting! You would be greeted by a farm offering refreshments. It smelled of warm milk and fresh-baked sweet bread. All the guests were a little out of breath and red-cheeked from the little expedition. On the sour cream, fat flies rested. You sit inside or outside and listen to the quiet—which, thanks to the unbelievable variety of birds, is very melodic—and rest your feet and decide that you’re never going to leave. Then you do, though. So you can come back again. And that is what Dune is made for. At Domäne Bill
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Dune
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Dune Cardigan
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Dune cardigan
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Dune
is worked seamlessly in one piece from the top down. After working the collar, the yoke is shaped by increases for body and sleeves and additional radial increases up to the sleeve separation. The sleeve stitches are then placed on hold, underarm stitches are cast on, and you continue to work the body in stockinette stitch, which is interrupted by the waist ribbing, then carry on to the bottom ribbing. After the body is completed, sleeve stitches are placed back onto the needles to be worked top down in the round.
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) Finished bust circumference: (cm): 80 (89, 96, 104, 113, 120) (inch): 31.5 (35, 37.75, 41, 44.5, 47.25) See the detailed measurements below. The sample sweater in Size S is worn with no ease at bust.
NEEDLES Main needle: A circular needle size to obtain gauge. Suggested size: 3,25 mm (US 3) circular needle A corresponding size smaller to main needle. Suggested size: 3 mm (US 2) circular needle or DPNs. For the sleeves: DPNs (or longer circular needle for magic loop) in main needle size.
GAUGE 22 sts x 30 rs/rds = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in in Stst on main needle, blocked
YARN Shown in Aria, Lana Grossa 8-ply (100% cotton, Ultra-light woven ribbon), 165m (180yds) per 50g in Color 034.
MATERIALS - 7 stitch markers - Waste yarn or stitch holder - 1 button
APPROX. YARN REQUIREMENTS Number of balls of Aria: 5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8) Or m/yds: 800/875 (870/950, 970/1060, 1080/1180, 1200/1310, 1310/1430) of a similar yarn.
FINAL MEASUREMENTS
The body ribbing (e) starts under your bust (above your natural waist). With the given measurement d (measured from the underarm CO) the ribbing fits a standard body, but can easily be adjusted to your height, by working more/less rows in this section.
cm a: 40 (44,5, 48, 52, 56,5, 60) b: 19 (20,5, 22,5, 24, 24,5, 26) c: 26 (29, 31, 33, 36, 40) d: +/- 11 for all sizes e: 6 for all sizes f: +/- 12 for all sizes
Inch a: 15.75 (17,5, 18.9, 20.5, 22.25, 23.6) b: 7.5 (8, 8.75, 9.4, 9.6, 10.25) c: 10.25 (11.5, 12.25, 13, 14.25, 15.75) d: +/- 4.25 for all sizes e: 2.4 for all sizes f: +/- 4.75 for all sizes
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Sanderlings. They run so fast that they are called Keen Tied (no time) in Low german.
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“My” Juist weather is a light drizzling rain with
a lot of wind, let’s say 10 to 25 knots. That’s when the sea is the most beautiful, wild and full of life. The air smells wonderfully salty and the rain keeps the sand from lashing at your feet like a thousand pinpricks. Just before the Domäne Loog, a heavy shower of rain and then a cup of tea. Salt is about my weather...
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Salt
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Salt cardigan
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Saltcardigan
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Salt
is worked seamlessly in one piece from the top down. After working the collar, the yoke is shaped by increases for body and sleeves and additional radial increases up to the sleeve separation. The sleeve stitches are then placed on hold, underarm stitches are cast on, and you continue to work the body with A-line shaping in stockinette stitch, which is interrupted by the back ribbing, then carry on working in Stst to the pockets and down to the bottom ribbing. After the body is completed, sleeve stitches are placed back onto the needles to be worked top down in the round. A hood is worked separately and can be buttoned on/off at the collar.
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) Finished bust circumference: (cm): 86 (93, 100, 108, 116, 124) (inch): 34 (36.5, 39.5, 42.5, 45.75, 48.75) See the detailed measurements below. The sample sweater is worn with approx. 6 cm (2.4 in) of positive ease at bust. GAUGE 22 sts x 30 rs/rds = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in in Stst on main needle MATERIALS 8 stitch markers Waste yarn or stitch holder About 20 buttons (Tip: with finishing the cardigan you can decide how many buttons you’ll need) Helping needle (for 3-needle bind off)
NEEDLES Main needle: A circular needle size to obtain gauge. Suggested size: 3,25 mm (US 3) circular needle A corresponding size smaller to main needle. Suggested size: 3 mm (US 2) circular needle. For the sleeves: DPNs (or longer circular needle for magic loop) in main and smaller needle size. YARN Shown in Rowan felted tweed, 8-ply (50% wool, 25% Rayon, 25% Alpaca), 50g (175m/191yds) in Size S. Color: carbon. APPROX. YARN REQUIREMENTS Number of balls of Rowan felted tweed (hood included) MC: 9 (10, 10, 11, 12, 12) / CC: 1 for all sizes Or m/yds of a similar yarn: MC: 1500/1640 (1600/1750, 1720/1880, 1830/2000, 1950/2130, 2060/2250), CC: 60-90 /65-100 Thereof for the hood only: 240 ( 245, 250, 262, 270, 278)
FINAL MEASUREMENTS
cm a: 43 (46,5, 50, 54, 58, 62) b: 19 (20,5, 22,5, 24, 24,5, 26) c: 26 (29, 31, 33, 36, 40) d: +/- 36 for all sizes e: +/- 17 for all sizes f: 51 (54, 59, 63, 68, 72)
Inch a: 17 (18.25, 19.75, 21.25, 22.75, 24.5) b: 7.5 (8, 8.75, 9.5, 9.75, 10.25) c: 10.25 (11.5, 12.25, 13, 14.25, 15.75) d: +/- 14.25 for all sizes e: +/- 6.75 for all sizes f: 40 (44,5, 48, 52, 56,5, 60)
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On the ferry back to the mainland
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Life on Juist
and life on the mainland are separated by a period of transition: the journey by ferry. It only goes back and forth once, or at the most twice a day, because the journey is only possible during high tide. It takes 90 minutes, sometimes longer—they say once even all night—to navigate through deeper and shallower waters as the tide changes. Naturally the mood is quite different while cruising over to Juist and on the way back. The 2017 Juist ferry schedule as a pdf. :)
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Cruise sweatigan Cruise
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Cruise sweatigan
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Cruise
is worked seamlessly in one piece from the top-down. The yoke is shaped by increases for the front, body and sleeves with additional radial increases up to the sleeve separation. The sleeve stitches are then placed on hold and underarm stitches are cast on,You work the body with short row shaping to the bottom hem. Sleeve stitches are placed back on the needles to be worked top-down in the round. With the neck finishing, you complete the sweater with a twist.
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) To fit bust circumference up to: (cm): 80 (89, 96, 104, 113, 122) (inch): 31.5 (35, 37.75, 41, 44.5, 48) Find the finished sweater measurements below. Best worn with 2 – 6 cm (0.75 - 2.5in) of positive ease. See the sizing information sheet and body shapes for how to pick your size. GAUGE 23 sts x 34 rs/rds = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 in Stst, --with main needle, blocked MATERIALS - 6 stitch markers - Waste yarn or stitch holder
NEEDLES Main needle: A circular needle size, 80 cm (32in) long (or longer for bigger sizes) to obtain gauge. Suggested size: 3,25 mm (US 3). A corresponding size smaller to main needle. Suggested size: 3 mm (US 2). For the sleeves: DPNs (or longer circular needle for magic loop) in main needle size. YARN Shown in The Uncommon Thread, everyday singles (100% Merino wool, fingering 4-ply), 366m (400yds), Color „Confetti“ in Size S. APPROX. YARN REQUIREMENTS Number of skeins of TUT everyday singles: 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5) Or m/yds : 1000/1095 (1090/1190, 1210/1325, 1340/1470, 1450/1585, 1600/1750) of a similar yarn.
FINAL MEASUREMENTS
cm a at back: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58,5, 63) b: 19 (20, 22, 23, 24,5, 25.5) c: 28 (29, 31, 34, 36, 39,5) d: +/- 19 for all sizes, depending on your height e at back: 18 for all sizes
Inch a at back: 16.5 (18, 19.75, 21.25, 23, 24.75) b: 7.5 (7.75, 8.75, 9, 9.5, 10) c: 11 (11.5, 12.25, 13.5, 14.25, 15.5) d: +/- 7.5 for all sizes, depending on your height e at back: 7 for all sizes
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Juist
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Theyarns
Clam
Surf
Dune
The yarn: Frida Fuchs Etepetete (80% Merino wool, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon), 100g (365m/399yds) Colors “Mönchspfeffer” and “Vanilleschote”
The yarn: Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light (100% Merino wool), 100g (384m/420yds) Colors “Antler” and “Fir Wreath”
The yarn: Lana Grossa Aria, 8-ply (100% cotton, Ultra-light woven ribbon), 50g (165m/180yds) Color 034
The uncommon thread, everyday singles
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Salt
Cruise
The yarn: Rowan Felted tweed, 8-ply (50% wool, 25% Rayon, 25% Alpaca), 50g (175m/191yds) Color “Carbon”
The yarn: The Uncommon Thread, Everyday singles (100% Merino wool, fingering 4-ply), 100g (366m/400yds) Color “Confetti”
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ANKESTRiCK–that’s me, Anke Wulffen from Berlin. In my designs I’m obsessed with neckline and shoulder constructions as I always knit from the top down, seamlessly. http://www.ravelry.com/designers/ankestrick fallmasche@gmx.net instagram: @ankestrick
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Thank you
To Christiane SchĂźtz and Imke Himstedt. To all the lovely testers: Ramona, Marianne, Sabine, Lydia, Helga (1), Jessica, Katrin, Marja-Liisa, Cathy, Christiane, Imke, Gisela, Michaela, Alex, Nicole, Silke (1), Inge, Silke (2), Helga (2), Monique, Baccarha and Uschi. And to my sister Caren. This journey would not have been possible without you! Ahoi!