p. 1 UO SUSTAINABLE ACTIVEWEAR
B U Y IN G STRATE GY PROJ EC T
ANNA THOROGOOD Fashion Buying and Merchandising 10168842
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1.0 STRATEGIC INTRODUCTION - - - - - - - - - 6
1.1 INTRO & BRAND OVERVIEW - - - - - - - - - - - - 8 1.2 EXTERNAL ANALYSIS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 10 1.3 INTERNAL & SWOT ANALYSIS - - - - - - - - - - -12 1.4 STRATEGIC DIRECTION - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 14 1.5 STRATEGIC EVALUATION - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 16
2.0 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT - - - - - - - - - - 18
2.1 BRAND ANALYSIS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 20 2.2 COMPETITIVE SHOP - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -24 2.3 COMPETITOR ANALYSIS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -27 2.4 CONSUMER ANALYSIS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -28 2.5 TREND ANALYSIS- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 30 2.6 DIRECTIONAL SHOP - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 32 2.7 TREND TRANSLATION - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 34 2.8.1 RANGE PLAN: PHASE 1 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 38 2.8.2 RANGE COORDINATION - - - - - - - - - - - - - 40 2.8.3 RANGE CLASSIFICATION - - - - - - - - - - - - 42 2.9.1 RANGE PLAN: PHASE 2 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 44 2.9.2 RANGE COORDINATION - - - - - - - - - - - - - 46 2.9.3 RANGE CLASSIFICATION - - - - - - - - - - - - -48 2.10 RANGE RATIONALE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 50
3.0 TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT - - - - - - - - 52
3.1 WORKING DRAWING - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 54 3.2 SIZE SPECIFICATION - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -55 3.3 TESTING PROCEDURES - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 56 3.4 FABRIC SOURCING - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -58 3.5 TECHNICAL RATIONALE- - - - - - - - - - - - - - 61
4.0 MERCHANDISING STRATEGY- - - - - - - 62
4.1 RANGE COSTING - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 65 4.2 DISTRIBUTION & ALLOCATION - - - - - - - - -66 4.3 PHASE 1 WSSI - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -68 4.4 MERCHANDISING RATIONALE - - - - - - - - -70
5.0 RANGE CONCLUSION- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 72
5.1 LIMITATIONS & RECOMMENDATIONS - - - 74
6.0 REFERENCES - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 76 7.0 APPENDIX - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 84
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UO SUSTAINABLE ACTIVEWEAR
BUYING STRATEGY PROJECT
CONTENTS
UO SUSTAINABLE ACTIVEWEAR
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BUYING STRATEGY PROJECT
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1 .0 ST R ATEGIC IN TRODUCTION
sustainability and activewear have exploded into the fashion industry with incredible force. New consumer behaviour and societal changes have meant that both categories are storming both the luxury and high-street market, increasing consumer demand overtime. Athleisure has undeniably become the most dominant trend of the 21st century (Wilson, 2018), continuing to grow as the COVID-19 pandemic influences comfort and longevity.
In 2020, sustainable activewear grew by 45% (Edited, 2021a), serving “as a mechanism to encourage health and fitness” (Lipson et al, 2020). This category’s market size is predicted to grow by 11% between 2020-2024 (Businesswire.com, 2020), highlighting its significance. Businesses must introduce both areas in order to improve product offering and brand reputation, benefitting competitive advantage.
Urban Outfitters (UO) operates within the URBN Group, with a mission of creativity, culture and uniqueness (URBN, 2020). With a 6.9% sales growth between 2014-2018 (Mintel, 2020a), UO are successfully storming the market, opening opportunities to expand their product mix and in-store experiences. This financial stability gives UO the reassurance that market growth would be successful within the current economic climate. Thus, a sustainable activewear brand is a worthwhile competitive strategy that will stabilise UO in an ever-growing, complex market.
“Activewear is a mechanism to encourage health and fitness” (Lipson et al, 2020)
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In the past 10 years,
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1.1 INTRO & BR AND OVERVIEW
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Porter’s Five Force’s in The PESTEL analysis appendix A expresses the power suppliers hold over UO. This is significant due to the damage of the force majeure UO mandated on their suppliers when the COVID-19 pandemic broke out (Drapers, 2020a). Supplier awareness of this mistreatment will consequently cause difficult negotiations, manipulating cost prices and delivery dates. UO will need to be conscious of this during negotiations with both old and new suppliers to ensure costs and margins remain profitable. UO need to be mindful of an autocratic relationship during negotiation as this will create further supplier reluctancy (Goworek, 2007). Sustainable activewear will continue to experience high levels of competitiveness, unsurprisingly heightening consumer demand. UO must recognise their core competencies that will aid rational strategic decision making in order to project across the market. Aligning their competencies and strategies will give UO the opportunity to become operationally effective whilst maintaining advantageous cost efficiencies (Prahalad and Hamel, 1997). By increasing economies of scale, UO avoid lower priced retailers capturing their strong consumer base.
in appendix B highlights areas of the macroenvironment that will negatively impact strategy success. Brexit’s impact on high tariffs and increased retail prices threatens the isolation of fashion retailers from consumers (The Business of Fashion, 2020), detrimental to the UKs retail economy. Subsequently, UO need to minimise risk by negotiating realistic delivery dates, whilst enhancing in-store experiences to capture consumer product investment during this economic uncertainty. Social media will dramatically influence purchase intention and brand engagement, seen in appendix B. Consumer-centric retailing forces UO to understand the value of social media to younger consumers. Marketing the range across all channels alongside a strong social media presence, customer-brand interactions strengthen, deepening consumer loyalty (Kim and Ko, 2015).
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BUYING STRATEGY PROJECT
1.2 EXTER NAL ANALYSIS
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The Value Chain anal- The SWOT analysis (apD) displays UOs important brand identiysis (appendix C) highlights how UOs pendix ty. It is crucial for creating a sense of community
newly automated distribution centre (DC) will expand inbound/outbound logistics through technological advancements. This enables UO to create a seamless process that can reduce delivery times for the customer. For future attainment, UO should contemplate the implementation of RFID technology within DCs in order to increase volumes and improve profitability for themselves and their suppliers (Loebbecke et al, 2006). Operating within fast fashion means high product turnaround, therefore, RFID can facilitate the streamlining of supply chain activities through efficiency and precision (Bottani et al, 2009). This reduces risks of logistical errors as online orders continue to lead retail. However, it will be expensive to introduce to UOs supply chain, so profitability and efficiencies need to be deliberated. UOs core competency of service is key for their brand image and loyalty. ‘UO Rewards’ places UO in a distinctive competitive position as they can directly connect with their consumers across their omni-channel outlets. Competitors like Topshop have struggled to achieve this engagement, emphasising how valuable experiential retail is for sustaining competitive advantage and relevancy. Yet, as COVID-19 has reduced spending, experience will not be the only purchase incentive for UOs premium priced products.
with their customers, a phenomenon in fashion retail. This translates across the business with their unique product development providing a strong competitive edge (Drapers, 2019). It is important to strengthen this image as COVID-19 enters as UOs biggest threat, compromising sales across channels. This will damage key areas of their supply chain; therefore, this new strategy should exploit these forces in order to secure a competitive position.
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BUYING STRATEGY PROJECT
1.3 INTER NAL & SWOT ANALYSIS
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1.4 STR ATEGIC DIRECTION
By emerging into a new mar-
“Athlesiure has seen an 109% increase in sellouts throughout 2020 across US and UK markets” Edited, 2020b
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ket, UO should be aware of the high demand from consumers as sustainable activewear is a highly desirable category post-COVID-19. This range diversifies UOs strategy, as seen in Ansoff’s Matrix (appendix F). The expansion of product offering will increase profitability for UO by creating a stronger barrier to entry, reducing the risk of an unsuccessful range (Tanwar, 2013). As an established brand, UO will be able to improve brand reputation through new sustainable materials, encouraging competitive advantage and market share (Gyan et al, 2017). UO must consider the strategic impact on other departments as its introduction may confuse and deter customers from products that fail to achieve this sustainable goal. Yet, it may widen UOs consumer base due to the large reach of activewear, increasing sales and profitability for all departments as the range encapsulates UOs brand identity.
Acceptability
• A diversification strategy will cause profits to grow as it is heterogenous with performance (Benito‐Osorio et al, 2012), showing the range should consistently increase profitability. • It is likely that stakeholders will be satisfied with the range as demand is high for these two categories; 24% of consumers are choosing activewear as a top category for purchase (The Wall Street Journal, 2020). • Launching the range AW21/22 in November 2021 will be appropriate for UO as many athleisure brands launch in this selling period.
Feasibility
• Working under the URBN group gives UO the resources and capabilities to allocate and distribute the range across the EU. • New skilled, specialist suppliers will need to be acquired due to the specific materials and manufacturing processes needed for sustainable activewear. This should be unproblematic due to UOs current vendor relationships. • The garment technical team should increase testing due to the performance characteristics of activewear. UO suppliers are required to complete testing using the recommended test labs (URBN, 2020).
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Suitability
• The implementation of a sustainable activewear brand will increase UOs market position from its current market share of 4.81% (Csimarket.com, 2020). • The range pushes UOs sustainability strategy beyond its current operations as they will have to look at their “end-to-end development and sourcing processes” (McKinsey & Company, 2019) to ensure a strong marketing campaign. • Despite Brexit and COVID-19 cultivating financial risks, the range will feel more premium due to their elevated high-street prices (Drapers, 2019) and high-quality sustainable fabrics.
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1.5 STR ATEGY EVALUATION
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2 . 0 PRODUCT DEV E LOPME N T
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2.1 BR AND ANALYSIS
Figure 5: Key Prints used by UO (Edited, 2020a).
Figure 1: Perceptual Map for UOs New Market Entry (Author’s Own, 2020)
£1
£450
£21.49
As a high-street retailer, UO has an elevated position due
to their higher price points, enriching their coherent image story. Strong silhouettes and shapes across departments touch on vintage styles, using their key sensibilities to direct their styling choices. Simple colour choices and hero prints excite customers, often being market leaders for combining nostalgia with current trends, unique to UOs brand strategy.
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Figure 3: UOs Product Colour Use (Edited, 2020a)
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Figure 2: Diagram displaying UOs Current Pricing Architecture (Edited, 2020a)
Figure 4: UOs Product Mix (Edited, 2020a) Figure 6: UOs Best Selling Styles December 2020 (Edited, 2020a)
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2.1 BR AND ANALYSIS
Figure 7: UOs Assortment of Sustainable Products/Fabrics Across Categories (Edited, 2020a)
Appendix G highlights UOs future sustainability goals. UO can be viewed
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as sustainability promoters for being individualistic in their approach to vintage re-selling in their ‘Renewal’ brand. Nevertheless, figure 7 highlights the proportions of conscious products in UOs current mix, showing the lack of sustainability currently. By implementing these small changes shown in appendix G, UO can enhance their competitiveness as consumers become more transparent, demanding more responsible products from UO to promote a sustainable lifestyle across the community (Gazzola et al, 2020)
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SPORTS BRA COMPETITVE SHOP
LEGGINGS COMPETITVE SHOP
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BUYING STRATEGY PROJECT
2.2 COMPETITIVE SHOP
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2.3 COMPETITOR ANALYSIS
WINDBREAKER COMPETITVE SHOP
With the market expected to grow 20.9% between 2019-2023 (Globalda-
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ta, 2019), oversaturation is an inevitable threat, seen in section 2.2. Demand is continuing to rise with searches for ‘sustainable activewear’ up 151% in 2020 (Edited, 2021b), showing the integration of sustainability in the mainstream, driven by the call for gyms reopening due to COVID-19. Activewear brands cleverly use colour stories to push their products in new directions, igniting consumer demand and to explore eco-consciousness (Balch, 2013), see figure 8. UO has the opportunity to stand out in the market by fully integrating sustainability and activewear in the high-street, essential for retail relevancy.
UO SUSTAINABLE ACTIVEWEAR
Figure 8: Analysis of UOs New Competitors (Edited, 2020a)
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2.4 CONSUMER ANALYSIS
Figure 9: Graph Showing Importance of Sustainablity in Purchasing Fashion Items- Demographics (Mintel, 2020a)
UOs target consumer is the young adult, aged 18-28 (Urban Out-
Social media has connected UO and their customers through their hashtag ‘#UOonyou’. It has promoted co-creation among users to create content for UO, building meaningful consumer-brand relationships, which positively impacts purchase behaviour (Hudson et al, 2016).
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fitters, 2020) who are unique, early adopters of trends (see appendix E). They strive for individuality and self-expression is valued. As culturally knowledgeable consumers, they are increasingly conscious of their environmental impact. Sustainability is a key driver for Gen Z shoppers, concluded in appendix H and figure 9. Increased consumer expectation for sustainable products highlights the influence sustainability has on purchase decision making (Mintel, 2020a).
2.5 TREND ANALYSIS
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CONSCIOUS CLARITY AW 21/22
As the world moves towards a more simplistic world, activewear will focus on minimal designs that emphasises sustainable innovations. p. 28
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“LESS BUT BETTER”- Dieter Rams, 2020
Influences;
Key Sustainable Brands:
Sustainable Materials:
Sense of Self
Girlfriend Collective
Biodegradable Fabrics
@bohobeautifullife
Adidas x Stella McCartney
Recycled Polyester
Indigo Luna
MimiKinis
Merino Wool
@sjanaelise
Alo Yoga
Tencel
‘Conscious Clarity’ embraces comfort whilst eco-consciousness leads
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the functionality and performance of the range. Strong details indicating fashion pieces will aid aesthetics whilst enhancing performance to encourage new stylings. Traditional silhouettes are reinvented through these details whilst using colour to offer nostalgic and natural references, creating a strong premium feel. Print takes the range in a softer direction, not overbearing but complimenting the shapes and colours in the range. These prints and colours allow sustainability to subtly shine through the environmentally friendly fabrics chosen.
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2.6 DIRECTIONAL SHOP
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2.7 TREND TR ANSLATION SILHOUETTE
Silhouettes balance basic and fashion pieces, enhancing comfort whilst pro-
moting multi-wear transitional styling. Blending apparel trends with activewear blurs the athleisure line further, using different lengths and classic shapes to rejuvenate wardrobes through timelessness and longevity (Kale, 2019).
Details will touch on simplicity whilst driving core, functional pieces across the season. Small details will elevate basic styles into fashion pieces, whilst multi-functional details will reach audiences who seek fashionability and functionality.
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DETAILS
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2.7 TREND TR ANSLATION COLOUR
FABRIC
In fabric selection, performance and sustainability are Print reflects UOs successful print stories whilst embracing The colour story reflects nature and pureness, empha-
key for success, ensuring customers attach value and positive selling points to the range. These characteristics can be taken across manufacture for long-term success and elongated product life cycles.
versatility and seasonless designs. Minimalistic natural prints radiate across phases, transitioning tie-dye to a new era that feels comfortable and familiar to UOs customers.
sising optimism in an uncertain world. Colours consider environmental impact reaching the eco-conscious customers whilst de-risking categories with comfort colours reassuring majority shoppers.
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2.8.1 R ANGE PLAN: PHASE 1
Look #6: £117.00
Look #2: £120.00
Look #7: £68.00
Look #3: £160.00
Look #8: £145.00
Look #4: £117.00
Look #9: £145.00
Look #5: £68.00
Look #10: £71.00
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Look #1: £160.00
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2.8.2 R ANGE CO ORDINATION
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2.8.3 R ANGE CLASSIFICATION
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2.9.1 R ANGE PLAN: PHASE 2
Look #5: £146.00
Look #2: £157.00
Look #3: £120.00
Look #6: £146.00
Look #4: £142.00
Look #7: £109.00
Look #8: £105.00
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Look #1: £120.00
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2.9.2 R ANGE CO ORDINATION
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2.9.3 R ANGE CLASSIFICATION
Print and colour will direct phases into the new season, giving UOs customer new investment pieces to reflect longevity. Guaranteeing a print option was important as UO value the use of print across products (figure 10). Print echoes this seasons trend whilst acting as lovely continuations for UOs already successful prints seen in section 2.1, tapping into their principal brand image. Similarly, colour builds a sustainable outlook, whilst reflecting UOs recognisable colour strategy, see section 2.1 (Jin et al, 2019). Tonal colours in phase 1 contrasts the directional colour perspective of phase 2 to mirror consumer adoption and trend manifestation.
Figure 10: Percentage of Plain and Pattern Products in UOs offering (Edited, 2020a)
Price points are aligned with UOs strategy, yet sustainable materials will inevitably increase prices. These fabrics should influence other departments in hope to promote further consciousness. These costs may alienate UOs younger consumers as they are aware of cheaper products on the market, nevertheless this may be accepted by more sustainably aware customers who will be reassured that the price reflects the quality with the environmental impact of these new materials, especially as Tencel is a reputable name. This innovative direction allows UO to directly compete against competitors like H&M, whilst expanding their competitive reach.
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As the introductory activewear range, strong familiar silhouettes are fundamental to trend and consumers (appendix H), seen in section 2.2. A ratio of 2:1 tops/bottoms ensures these core shares are incorporated, whilst considering early adopters’ need for fashionability. Basic bottom shapes let UO be experimental with tops as consumers invest in versatile contrasting tops. Hero pieces will be important to UO for driving demand and excitement, whilst ensuring a balance between product classifications to ensure high sales (Jackson and Shaw, 2000).
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2.10 R ANGE R ATIONALE
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3 . 0 TEC H NICAL DEV E LOPME N T
3.2 SIZE SPECIFICATION
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3.1 WORKING DR AWING
COLOURWAYS:
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Adapted From Aldrich (2011) and Myers-McDevitt (2004)
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3.3 TESTING PRO CEDURES Testing will occur for all products to ensure high quality and performance across the range. This must be beneficial to final product outcome due to its large cost implications on business (Saville, 1999). SEAM TENSILE STRENGTH- BSI EN ISO 13935-2: 2014 Seam Tensile Properties of Fabrics and Made-up Textile Articles : Determination of Maximum Force to Seam Ruture Using The Grab Method
Seam strength is important to customers, reassuring them against garment rupture during intense activity. If the garments are worn during high-performance sports, the seams will experience pulling in multiple directions, harming the integrity of the seams. This test can avoid making whole products inoperative, elongating its lifecycle (Saville, 1999). This can help market the range as many consumers will value this information, influencing purchase decisions.
WICK ABILITY- BSI EN ISO 11092: 2014 Measurement of Thermal and Water Vapour Resistance Under Steady State Conditions (Sweating Guarding Hot-Plate Test)
Wick ability management is vital to sportswear performance as it decreases the risk of heat stress during use (Rossi, 2018). The test will ensure structures are correct for reducing moisture flow, guaranteeing comfort and performability (Saville, 1999). This is a key characteristic of sportswear and will be expected from consumers for comfort during activity, therefore failing to achieve this can put UO in a dangerous competitive competition.
As sportswear continues to be worn as loungewear, abrasion may increase due to long hours of wear and increased scope of use (Uttam, 2013). This test can identify changes in appearance and performance quality, flagging issues that may impact long term use. Abrasion can be impacted by many variables that arise in increased wear (Saville, 1999), which may impact customer recommendation-based purchases.
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ABRASION RESISTANCE- BSI EN ISO 12947-2: 2016 Determination of the Abrasion Resistance By The Martindale Method: Determination of Specimen Breakdown.
sustainable alternative to polyester, known for its versatility. With plastic bottle origins, landfill waste and toxic emissions are greatly reduced from its manufacture (Shen and Wang, 2017). The single knit structure accelerates evaporation to ensure wick ability (Manshahia and Das, 2014), to promote comfort during use. For products like the windbreaker, this structure also enhances thermal properties, keeping wearers warm during outdoor use. Although this is a relatively cheap sustainable material, large amounts of energy are required for manufacture, decreasing its credibility.
Tencel is an innovative sustainable material due
renewable, biodegradable wood origins, reducing toxic chemical use. It is perfectly suited for activewear due to its “nano-fibril” structure of cellulosic fibres (Tencel, 2021). Therefore, the fabric has excellent absorption and breathability characteristics (Firgo et al, 2006). This is an expensive choice for UO due to its technological manufacturing process, nevertheless, it has a stronger longterm positive impact on the environment.
Organic Cotton
is already in use at UO (see appendix G and section 2.1) due to its low cost and availability; consumers are more willing to invest in these products (Tong and Su, 2018). By eliminating chemical and pesticide use, organic cotton promotes biodiversity whilst being biodegradable (Shen and Wang, 2017). A collaboration with the British Cotton Initiative (appendix G) enables UO to promote holistic activewear. Its handle and strength properties also contribute to the performability of this fabric.
Elastane is essential for sportswear due to
its exceptional stretch and recovery properties. Used in conjunction with other fibres, low content elastane aids moisture absorption and wick ability (Manshahia and Das, 2014). Freedom of movement for wearers can be guaranteed due to its low resistance quality (Senthilkumar et al, 2011). Regrettably, as a synthetic fibre, it cannot be recycled nor has a positive environmental impact. UO should continue to explore sustainable alternatives such as Lycra’s Bio-derived elastane.
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Recycled Polyester is a common
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3.4 FABRIC SOURCING
Tolerances are considered in the specification due to the inevitability of human error throughout garment production (Cooklin et al, 2011). Tolerances should be avoided as deviation from measurements can led to sizing issues, resulting in more fit sessions and the increased risk of returns. The supplier chosen for the jacket is UK based to reduce emissions producing through air and road freight. This supports the sustainability of the range, whilst aiding UK innovation (McCullough, 2014). This is advantageous to UOs fast fashion model as domestic suppliers also reduce lead times (De Brito et al, 2008).
Fabric selection considers strategic direction whilst maintaining long-term supplier relationships. Recycled materials are rising within the market; 90% of all eco-options (Edited, 2021b) with use increasing by 80% YOY (Edited, 2021a). Using recycled polyester will minimise costs whilst ensuring high quality for performance, showing the importance of this material. Fastenings are seldom used to reflect the trend of minimalism, yet for outerwear, recycled polyester zippers are used to preserve sustainability. These zippers must be approved by technical teams to ensure consistency across products. Testing is imperative for UO as they venture into performance-wear. This should avoid damaging the reputation of the range at launch. Testing performance clothing helps determine the innovative nature of the fabrics (Hayes and Venkatraman, 2018), whilst also acting as a marketing tool for the launch.
“Recycled materials make up 90% of all eco-options on the market” (Edited, 2021b)
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A clear specification is crucial for ensuring size variations are avoided, often negatively impacting decision making. As online shopping rises, size discrepancies are becoming common with 54% of consumers returning clothes due to poor fit (Mintel, 2020c). For sportswear, size is key for comfort: a characteristic often missed due to a focus on performance and aesthetics (Bramel, 2005). Sizing should be monitored and continually reviewed due to inconsistencies within activewear (Workman and Lentz, 2000); this will ensure long-term profitability. The specification is based on UOs sample size, size small. This reflects common customer sizing in order to prevent disengagement with the consumer.
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3.5 TECHNICAL R ATIONALE
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4 .0 M E RC H ANDISING STR ATEGY
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4.1 R ANGE COSTING
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4.2 DISTRIBUTION & ALLO CATION There are 61 UO stores across the EU (URBN.com, 2020). The below quantities are estimates of the number of stores across store classifications.
NUMBER OF STORES IN EU TERRITORY 61 exl. online
(Online)
(Flagship/Large)
GRADE B
GRADE C (Medium)
(Small/Consession)
60
27
24
10
GRADE A
GRADE D
Phase 1 will launch in all stores, including online. With excitement built around the range, a hard launch will ensure UO gain significant market share, increasing competitive advantage. Online channels must be considered in response to COVID-19 as e-commerce increased by 200% YOY in 2020 (Statistia, 2021), indicating large online footfall across EU websites. It would be a missed opportunity to not launch across channels as larger, diverse audiences can be reached subsequently. Nonetheless, large quantities may be risky as they cause high inventory costs if stock goes unsold (Jackson and Shaw, 2000).
Figure 12: Phase 1 Sizing Allocation (Author’s Own, 2021)
Sizing is important for allocation as specific stores require different sizing ratios as demographics alter geographically. Figure 12 shows initial allocations per style/purchase order, ensuring all sizes are accommodated for correctly. Size small will need higher quantities due to its commonality among UO customers (Edited, 2020a).
This phase will launch in week 45, a key trading period. ASOS similarly launched their own activewear collection around this time (Edited, 2020a). Launching across Q4 and Q1 is profitable as there are many significant selling events including New Year. In Q1 2020, the activewear segment increased by 43% due to the trend of ‘getting fit’ (Edited, 2021a). This is expected to increase as COVID-19 continues to push at-home workouts.
Figure 13: Phase 1 Allocation of Quantities (Author’s Own, 2021)
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Figure 11: Seasonal Phase Drop Schedule (Authors Own, 2021)
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4.3 PHASE 1 WSSI
The WSSI indicates to management cumulative performance of the range to inform future buying decisions (Jackson and Shaw, 2000). As a new strategy, forecasts can highlight areas of risk that can be minimised to ensure long-term success of the range. Initial launch will see high figures due to social media marketing creating demand around launch; 65% of shoppers say social networks influence shopping behaviours (Aragoncillo and Orus, 2018). Influencer collaborations will both attract new and retain current customers (Rebelo, 2017), creating a “ripple effect” in reaching a larger target audience (Kaplan and Haenlein, 2012).
Launching near Black Friday will dramatically influence forecasted sales due to its growing popularity in the EU. In 2020, Black Friday spending rose to £6 billion showing how event participation is crucial to success (Johnson, 2021). Trading both phases within these quarters ensures sales are driven by consumer demand for promoting healthier lifestyles. Marketing campaigns will be significant to phase 2 sales, encouraging sell-outs as COVID-19 promotes this lifestyle (Edited, 2021a). Capitalising on the holiday season will be essential for sales, propelling the range into further development throughout the year.
“65% of shoppers say social networks influence shopping behaviours” (Aragoncillo and Orus, 2018)
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Using UOs store grading system ensures an evenly distributed range. Hero products allocated to grade A/B stores ensure that top stores have high stock levels to accommodate for hero popularity among younger consumers at these stores (Goworek, 2007). Flagships, consequently, can reflect UOs brand identity which is often exaggerated in flagships (Brun and Castelli, 2008). This also increases demand through product exclusivity. Hero products will have limited quantities due to the risk attached to these shapes/prints. Yet, if successful, these products can easily be repeated/replenished to maximise sales and sustain competitive advantage.
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4.4 MERCHANDISING R ATIONALE
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5. 0 R ANGE CONC LUSION
LIMITATION 1:
RECOMMENDATION 1:
Sustainable Materials:
UO should develop into new sustainable materials which are more eco-conscious. Tencel should continue to be used, whilst technicians explore other materials with cellulosic origins e.g., Hemp. This can slowly be integrated into other departments to create a fully sustainable business. UO should use this as a marketing tool as callouts of these products can enhance product credentials (Edited, 2021b).
LIMITATION 2:
RECOMMENDATION 2:
Price: Section 2.10 touches on the price consequences of sustainable fabrics. UO
should be aware that higher prices may cause consumers to shop at alternative competitor stores with lower prices (Chen et al, 2016). High cost prices impact margin, driven by increased testing and manufacturing processes. This may alienate younger consumers who lack disposable incomes.
LIMITATION 3: Quantity: Large quantities has high risk attached to the range, especially as an
unexplored area. Although consumers are likely to invest in these pieces (appendix H), there is high competition in the market, providing more options for consumers. High inventory levels can result in poor turnover if the range is unsuccessful as well as creating higher future costs for UO (Kokemuller, 2021).
UO should search for fabrics/process that have reasonable cost prices to ensure they meet margin whilst maintaining price architecture. Alternatively, UO may consider moving the range in a unisex, genderless direction to combine menswear/womenswear sales; 56% Gen Z shop outside their assigned gender (Edited, 2021b), showing the leverage this idea could have. A focus group may be beneficial to understand target customers’ opinions on price and genderless clothing.
RECOMMENDATION 3: UO may choose a softer launch for phase 2 as they may have large quantities of phase 1 left to sell. A WSSI will show to merchandisers the quantities that will balance sell thru throughout the selling period. Future collections may reflect a soft and hard launch depending on the initial success of the range.
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Although recycled polyester is a cheap sustainable alternative, it still has a large environmental impact. Blending recycled polyester with other fibres reduces the chance of recycling, contributing to microfibre pollution affecting oceans (Muthu, 2020). Therefore, UO may face some negative feedback from customers who are more environmentally aware, affecting initial profitability
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5.1 LIMITATIONS & RECOMMENDATIONS
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6 . 0 R EFE RE NCE S
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Gyan, A.K., Brahmana, R. and Bakri, A.K., (2017). Diversification Strategy, Efficiency, And Firm Performance: Insight From Emerging Market. Research in International Business and Finance, 42, pp.1103-1114.t Hayes, S.G. and Venkatraman, P., (2018). Materials and technology for sportswear and performance apparel. CRC Press. Hudson, S., Huang, L., Roth, M.S. and Madden, T.J., (2016). The influence of social media interactions on consumer–brand relationships: A three-country study of brand perceptions and marketing behaviors. International Journal of Research in Marketing, 33(1), pp.27-41. Jackson, T. and Shaw, D. (2000) Mastering Fashion Buying and Merchandising Management. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan (Macmillan Master Series). Available at: http://search.ebscohost.com.manchester.idm.oclc.org/login.aspx?direct=true&AuthType=ip,shib&db=nlebk&AN=1525330&site=ehost-live [Accessed: 7 January 2021]. Jackson, V.P. and Lee, M.Y., (2010)W. Generation Y in the global market: A comparison of South Korean and American female decision making styles. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 34(6), pp.902-912. Jin, C., Yoon, M. and Lee, J., (2019). The Influence Of Brand Color Identity On Brand Association And Loyalty. Journal of Product & Brand Management. Johnson, G., (2021). Black Friday And Cyber Monday Statistics UK | 2020. [online] Finder UK. Available at: <https://www.finder.com/uk/black-friday-statistics#:~:text=According%20to%20our%20 latest%20Black,on%20average%20each%20this%20year.&text=This%20means%20the%20total%20 Black,%C2%A36%20billion%20in%202020.> [Accessed 13 January 2021]. Johnson, G., Scholes, K. and Whittington, R. (2008). Exploring Corporate Strat- egy. 8th ed. Harlow: Prentice Hall. Kale, S., (2019). The Layering Secret: How To Get A Whole New Wardrobe From Your Old Clothes. [online] The Guardian. Available at: <https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/sep/25/the-layering-secret-how-to-get-a-whole-new-wardrobe-from-your-old-clothes> [Accessed 2 January 2021]. Kaplan, A.M. and Haenlein, M., (2012). The Britney Spears universe: Social media and viral marketing at its best. Business Horizons, 55(1), pp.27-31. Kim, A.J. and Ko, E., (2012). Do social media marketing activities enhance customer equity? An empirical study of luxury fashion brand. Journal of Business research, 65(10), pp.1480-1486. Kim, E., Fiore, A.M. and Kim, H., (2013). Fashion trends: Analysis and forecasting. Berg. Kokemuller, N., (2021). Disadvantages Of High Inventory Levels. [online] Small Business - Chron.com. Available at: <https://smallbusiness.chron.com/disadvantages-high-inventory-levels-20400.html> [Accessed 25 January 2021]. Leonards, A., (2017). Urban Outfitters Picks Advanced Supply Chain | Logistics Manager. [online] Logistics Manager. Available at: <https://www.logisticsmanager.com/urban-outfitters-picks-advanced-supply-chain/> [Accessed 23 November 2020]. Lipson, S.M., Stewart, S. and Griffiths, S., (2020). Athleisure: A qualitative investigation of a multi-billion-dollar clothing trend. Body image, 32, pp.5-13. Loebbecke, C., Palmer, J. and Huyskens, C., (2006). RFID’s potential in the fashion industry: a case analysis. BLED 2006 Proceedings, p.34. Lowes Companies Inc. (2011). 10-K Annual report pursuant to section 13 and 15(d) Filed on 03/29/ 2011.
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FIGURE LIST: Figure 1: Perceptual Map for UOs New Market Entry (Author’s Own, 2020) Figure 2: Diagram displaying UOs Current Pricing Architecture (Edited, 2020a) Figure 3: UOs Product Colour Use (Edited, 2020a) Figure 4: UOs Product Mix (Edited, 2020a) Figure 5: Key Prints used by UO (Edited, 2020a). Figure 6: UOs Best Selling Styles December 2020 (Edited, 2020a) Figure 7: UOs Assortment of Sustainable Products/Fabrics Across Categories (Edited, 2020)a Figure 8: Analysis of UOs New Competitors (Edited, 2020a) Figure 9: Graph Showing Importance of Sustainability in Purchasing Fashion Items- Demographics (Mintel, 2020a) Figure 10: Percentage of Plain and Pattern Products in UOs offering (Edited, 2020a) Figure 11: Seasonal Phase Drop Schedule (Authors Own, 2021) Figure 12: Phase 1 Sizing Allocation (Author’s Own, 2021) Figure 13: Phase 1 Allocation of Quantities (Author’s Own, 2021)
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Senthilkumar, M., Anbumani, N. and Hayavadana, J., (2011). Elastane fabrics–A tool for stretch applications in sports Spglobal.com. (2020). Urban Outfitters Achieves The Nearly Impossible With Supply Chain Control. [online] Available at: <https://www.spglobal.com/marketintelligence/en/news-insights/latest-news-headlines/urban-outfitters-achieves-the-nearly-impossible-with-supply-chain-control-60162448> [Accessed 23 November 2020]. Statista. (2020). Christmas Period Sales Growth Of Retailers In The UK 2019 | Statista. [online] Available at: <https://www.statista.com/statistics/1094409/like-for-like-sales-growth-of-retailers-duringchristmas-in-the-uk/> [Accessed 13 January 2021]. Statista. (2021). Weekly Order Trends In Online Retail During Covid-19 In Europe 2020 | Statista. [online] Available at: <https://www.statista.com/statistics/1109296/online-retail-y-o-y-order-trends-duringcoronavirus-in-europe/> [Accessed 7 January 2021]. Sudha, M. and Sheena, K., (2017). Impact of influencers in consumer decision process: the fashion industry. SCMS Journal of Indian Management, 14(3), pp.14-30. Tanwar, R., (2013). Porter’s generic competitive strategies. Journal of business and management, 15(1), pp.11-17. Tencel.com. (2021). TENCEL™ Official Site: Lyocell Fibers, Modal Fibers, Soft Fabric Textile. [online] Available at: <https://www.tencel.com/> [Accessed 2 January 2021]. Tgw-group.com. (2020). New Fulfilment Centre For Urban Outfitters UK | TGW. [online] Available at: <https://www.tgw-group.com/en/news/press-releases/2020/highly-automated-intralogistics-solution-for-urban-outfitters-in-the-uk> [Accessed 23 November 2020]. The Business of Fashion. (2020). Post-Brexit Trade Deal Could Increase Retail Prices. [online] Available at: <https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/uk-consumers-tk-tk> [Accessed 20 November 2020]. The NPD Group. (2018). Athleisure Market Trend Analysis 2018. [online] Available at: <https://www. npd.com/wps/portal/npd/us/news/press-releases/2018/the-casualization-of-american-apparel-willthe-athleisure-trend-stay-or-go/> [Accessed 18 November 2020]. Tian, M.J., (2005). A strategic analysis of an active-wear wholesale distributor in Canada (Doctoral dissertation, Faculty of Business Administration-Simon Fraser University). Tong, X. and Su, J., (2018). Exploring young consumers’ trust and purchase intention of organic cotton apparel. Journal of Consumer Marketing. Ünay, F.G. and Zehir, C., (2012). Innovation intelligence and entrepreneurship in the fashion industry. Procedia-Social and Behavioral Sciences, 41, pp.315-321. Urban Outfitters. (2020.) Urban Outfitters Annual Report. [Online]. Available at: http://investor.urbn. com/static-files/8fdfa07b-47b7-4e25-ae94-e6b3e1a7cbf0 [Accessed 23 Jan. 2020]. URBN. (2020). [online] Available at: <https://www.urbn.com/home> [Accessed 4 November 2020]. Uttam, D., (2013). Active sportswear fabrics. International Journal of IT, Engineering and Applied Sciences Research, 2(1), pp.34-40. Walker, P., (2019). Urban Outfitters Upgrades Customer Experience Tech. [online] Retail Systems. Available at: <https://www.retail-systems.com/rs/Urban_Outfitters_Qualtrics_Customer_Experience_ Tech.php> [Accessed 22 November 2020]. Wang, L. and Shen, B., (2017). A product line analysis for eco-designed fashion products: Evidence from an outdoor sportswear brand. Sustainability, 9(7), p.1136.
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7 . 0 APPE NDIX
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APPENDIX B- PESTEL ANALYSIS OF UO
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APPENDIX A- PORTER’S FIVE FORCES ANALYSIS OF UO
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APPENDIX D- SWOT ANALYSIS OF UO
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APPENDIX C- VALUCE CHAIN ANALYSIS OF UO
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(1995)
APPENDIX F- ANSOFF’S MATRIX (1965)
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APPENDIX E- ROGER’S ADOPTION CURVE
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APPENDIX H- CONSUMER MARKET SURVEY
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APPENDIX G- EMAIL CONVERSATION WITH A UO BAA
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