AW 15

Page 1

AW || 15

AW || 15 RANGE ||

1 || 1


AW || 15

At Rab® we know that there is more to success than summit photos and awards. These are the culmination of a long, uncertain process which may have begun months, or years, before. But this is rarely a linear development and progress is never guaranteed. Internal conflict and self-doubt can become barriers,

but equally they can act as a catalyst and lead to greater future success. Am I trying hard enough? Is it good enough? Whether the project is a difficult first ascent, or designing a new product, these questions are familiar. The satisfaction of answering ”Yes” is something worth waiting for.

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

RANGE ||

3 || 3


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


TABLE OF CONTENTS ASCENT RANGE INTRO || 7 ASCENT OVERVIEW || 9 MUCHU CHHISH EXPED || 10 ASCENT RANGE IMAGERY || 12-17 EXPED || 19 ROCK RANGE INTRO || 21 ROCK RANGE OVERVIEW || 23 GONZO CRACK || 25 ROCK RANGE IMAGERY || 27-31

AW || 15

ESCAPE RANGE INTRO || 33 ESCAPE RANGE OVERVIEW || 35 ESCAPE RANGE IMAGERY || 38-43 KEEPER’S LODGE || 45

ASCENT || RANGE

5 || 5



ASCENT

giving words to the ascent range Mus eum quassed quam estist audandestio. Nequi bea vende aborepra quisciasi aut maio ipsusamus rae. Nequo evenimpor aligend itatur? Eratur? Quisti sere arcimag natquamet qui dellor aut magnimp orecea quam ist, amus ut dit hariasin conse nihicim

Mus eum quassed quam estist audandestio. Nequi bea vende aborepra quisciasi aut maio ipsusamus rae. Nequo evenimpor aligend itatur? Eratur? Quisti sere arcimag natquamet qui dellor aut magnimp orecea quam ist, amus ut dit hariasin conse nihicim

7 || 7


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


MUCHU CHHISH EXPEDITION - PETE THOMPSON The aim of the Muchu Chhish expedition, consisting of Phil DeBeger, Tim Oates and myself, was to make the first ascent of Muchu Chhish in the Pakistani Karakoram. Although our attempt failed, it was an interesting expedition. After a gruelling two day journey up the Karakoram Highway to Hunza, we set off up the Hassanabad valley. The trek up the rubble-strewn glacier was short but difficult for the porters. The most dangerous moment of the expedition came when we arrived at base camp and the resident herd of yaks stampeded. We only escaped by climbing onto large boulders. On the subject of animals, we saw numerous ibex and a snow leopard visited our camp at night. This was surprising for an area so close to the highly populated Hunza valley. Another feature of the camp was the frequent avalanches and rock

AW || 15

fall which crashed around us. After acclimatising, out attempt on the mountain was alpine-style. Ground on a long traverse which we had hoped to climb unroped had to be pitched due to hard ice. Realising that going slowly we had no realistic chance of success we decided to retreat at only 6000m. Our back-up objective was a couloir on nearby Gutum Talji. Unfortunately this did not have enough ice, so we decided to try another objective elsewhere. This involved a boat trip to upper Hunza across the 19km long Attabad Lake, which was formed by a huge landslide in 2010. The very hospitable people of the Moorkhun valley were engaged as porters for the short trek to base camp. Tim and Phil made an attempt on the unclimbed 6200m Pregar, but again the summit was not reached. We were disappointed to have failed on our objectives, but this can happen in the Karakoram. ... Continued on the Rab blog. Blog.rab.uk.com.

ASCENT || RANGE

9 || 9


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

ASCENT || RANGE

11 || 11


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

ASCENT || RANGE

13 || 13


|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

ASCENT || RANGE

15 || 15


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


BELLAVISTA - CALUM MUSKETT After our adventure on the Eiger, Dave and I were after a fresh objective. We had a number of routes in mind spread out across the Alps but, wimps that we are, were keen to avoid any more cold bivi’s! Dave mentioned Bellavista in the Dolomites, a route he’d tried a decade earlier. It seemed to be the perfect objective; easily accessible, only has a couple of difficult pitches and it’s near the best pizzeria on the planet in a place called Misurina. Bellavista was first climbed by Alex Huber in 2000 and free climbed a year later. The pictures of the route are just sensational showing climbers swinging their way through the huge roof of Cima Ovest, some 150m above the ground. The route had just received an ascent by the talented American climber Sasha DiGiulian and we hoped to take advantage of some chalked holds which might speed up our process of working the route. We arrived early at the car park at the end of the toll road beneath the Tre Cime. Although we were keen to make an early start it felt

AW || 15

so cold outside that we decided to get a little more sleep. We finally got round to the base of the route at about 10am, not exactly the alpine start we’d anticipated! I shivered my way up the first pitch, a relatively bold but fortunately easy pitch and we swung leads up to the 8c crux through the roofs. Conditions were poor for this pitch. The big roofs seem to have condensation sticking to their undersides for much of the time making the holds feel like they’d been slathered in soap. Dave made steady progress up this spectacular pitch climbing from peg to peg. This pitch is so overhanging that to get back to the previous belay you have to abseil down a separate rope for 50m before jumaring about 20m upwards! As conditions were so poor I decided to forego my attempt and we descended to the base of the route. ... continued on the Rab blog.

ASCENT || RANGE

17 || 17


AW || 15

The Rock collection is inspired by our heritage in the North of England, we have one of the premier climbing areas, The Peak District on our doorstep. The Rab速 brand was born in the climbing mecca that was Sheffield in the 1980s and developed for the new breed of climber emerging from this industrial IN heartland. || FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS THE WORLD || 2015

The new breed of climber started to look closer to home for harder and harder challenges and the gritstone crags of the Peak District became the centre of the climbing world with harder and harder test pieces falling on a regular basis.

This Rock collection is our answer to the constant requests from our current team of climbers. These climbers are at the forefront of modern climbing and work hard every day, training or mentally preparing for their next project. They need clothing and equipment that they trust implicitly and that works, this range is for them.


ROCK

AW || 15

RANGE ||

19 || 19


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


THE GONDO CRACK PROJECT - TOM RANDALL One of the things that keeps me

psyched out of his mind to climb

this, you take a small gaston,

really motivated, is having first

hard cracks. He’s done many of

slap to a sloper, then reverse

ascent projects. It’s the lure of al-

the local hard climbs and most

your finger into a “Cobra-style”

ways knowing that there’s some-

importantly, is just a little mad

undercut mono move. Build your

thing just round the corner, that’s

like me. That always helps!

feet and then pull off a total max

a smidge out of reach. This year,

body length move to a three

I’ve got 3 main crack projects on

The route is located near the

finger edge. At this point you’re

the books, which is probably a bit

village of Gondo and forms a

desperately wanting it to be all

ambitious! One, which is totally

thin crack line on a leaning wall

over, but from here you have to

possible when it stops raining in

– I would guess it’s around 15

single arm deadhang the edge

the UK, another which is proba-

degrees overhanging. The first

(I’ve been telling people for years

bly a bit beyond me and one more

part of the line is a pretty nice

that one arm pull ups are useless

that is just right.

introduction into the horrors that

and then I find one!) and do what

lie above, with 7c climbing on

feels like a one-armer on it as the

I’ve been looking for something

pretty pokey gear. All the holds

foot hold is so poor. Just a couple

that was the next step up from

are pretty reasonable, but none

of sloper moves after this then

Cobra in finger crack terms and

are massive and there are no

lead to a belay and hopefully not

last year I was introduced to it on

rests…. it slowly wears you down

a fall…. it’d be brown pants time

the border of Italy and Swit-

and takes the edge off whilst

from there!

zerland. Those who know me,

placing the gear. This section

won’t be surprised to know that

then deposits you at a good rest-

Well, as I write this I’m sat here in

I actually thought it was in Italy

ing hold at three quarters height

Italy (yes I’m definitely in Italy and

for nearly a year, despite crossing

via a slightly scary jump/slap

not Switzerland) with only one

the border each time to try it!

move (well, it is for trad climbers

day left on my third trip to try this

who hate being dynamic!).

route. I’ve got all the way through

AW || 15

to the last hard move now, but

The Gondo Crack project was originally envisaged by local

After this, the real meat starts.

the conditions are not favour-

Italian legend Allesandro Manini

There’s some set up moves on

able. The temperatures are high,

- this is the man who’s probably

side pulls and a couple of finger

there’s no wind and humidity is

contributed more to cutting edge

jams and then one good position

right up there with my local sau-

Italian crack climbing than any

from which to place your last

na. I guess I better hope to get

other; Profundo Rosso 8a, Denti

gear. It burns your shoulder mus-

lucky on the last day huh?

Stretti 8b/+, Lapoterapia 8c are

cle like nobody’s business, but

all very beefy crack lines estab-

it’s worth it to place the offset

lished by a man of Moon and

nut properly as it’s your last piece

Moffatt’s generation. The Gondo

of gear. From this, you make a

project, however, has eluded him

long lock to probably the hardest

since his first attempts on it in

finger jamming move I’ve ever

1999 and he’s been kind enough

done. A single, shallow finger in

to let me try it. I’ve also been

a tiny slot to make a full length

really lucky in meeting a local

move to the next jam. Think

climber, Lucas Iribarren who’s

1-4-8 on the campus board. After

ROCK || RANGE

21 || 21


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

ROCK || RANGE

23 || 23


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

ROCK || RANGE

25 || 25


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

ROCK || RANGE

27 || 27


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


ESCAPE

AW || 15

Escape is about the time when we aren’t in the mountains, at the crag, down at the wall or on the trail. Escape is about the time travelling to the mountains, those rest days on an extended trip or that post climbing feeling.

Escape takes everything that makes RabÂŽ successful in the Ascent technical category and applies it to the everyday. Every Rab product is designed with a specific end use and focus in mind so the Escape collection is no different.

We use our fabric and design expertise to ensure that all products in the Escape collection provide long service and maximum comfort.

RANGE ||

29 || 29


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

ESCAPE || RANGE

31 || 31


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

ESCAPE || RANGE

33 || 33


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

ESCAPE || RANGE

35 || 35


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


THE KEEPER’S HOUSE - EMMA CHROME It was a chilly February afternoon

Some folks have told me they

It is also partly due to this afford-

when I first went to look at the

couldn’t live here due to how ‘out

able arrangement that I am able

house. Despite the remote setting

on a limb’ it is, and I get that. The

to go to Kyrgyzstan on a five week

and the fact that I had not seen

house sits at the end of the long

climbing expedition in September.

inside I had already made up my

winding lane from Hayfield two

So I guess this domestic adven-

mind that I wanted to rent it. The

miles away, the last house but one

ture is giving me a helping hand in

Property Guardianship scheme

before nothing but open moor-

bigger adventures too.

that ‘lets’ the house offered four

land. But for me that is exactly

double rooms – exactly like a

what makes this so special. I don’t

Keeper’s House was definitely

house share – at a very cheap

suppose there are many places

waiting for me. It is my new home

price, all bills included. The so-

of this situation and character in

that has proven to me that day-to-

called job of the Property Guardian

the UK, and I certainly could not

day life can be fun and rewarding

is to keep the house warm and

afford to buy a place like this. So

– occasionally a little surreal too. I

lived-in, free from squatters and

to me this is a kind of ‘domestic’

look forward to spending time at

rising damp. The almost too-good-

adventure, destined to end in the

home, and every time I gaze out

to-be-true cheap rent meant that

not too distant future, but one

of the window at the blue waters

I could save money, and solved the

that I will remember forever.

of the reservoir and the green

annoyance of paying a lot of mon-

hillside beyond, I am reminded

ey to rent a house I would quite

From the front door I can go

that our England is a stunning,

often be spending time away from

walking or running across Kinder.

special place.

due to work.

The Downfall – a waterfall that

AW || 15

tumbles off the edge of the When I had the official viewing

vast plateau – is visible from the

inside the house, things were

kitchen and living room window,

even better. A huge reception

and I have followed the river up

room boasted an open fireplace,

in to the amphitheatre below the

parquet flooring and a bay win-

waterfall many times already. One

dow overlooking the reservoir. A

evening after work I walked up to

separate living room looked as

the Downfall, carrying my climbing

though previous occupants had

gear, and led Zigzag, a 3 star clas-

used it as a ‘television’ room as it

sic rock climb which has a magical

was slightly smaller and cosier.

mountainous setting and not a

The kitchen was big with lovely

lot of traffic. The fact that I can do

views over the valley, and two util-

this after work, mid-week from my

ity rooms and a pantry left ample

front door, sums up exactly why I

storage space.

chose to live here.

...

...

ESCAPE || RANGE

37 || 37


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


AW || 15

RANGE ||

39 || 39


AW || 15

|| FOR THE MOST EXTREME CONDITIONS IN THE WORLD || 2015


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.