WASH LAB by Anna Schuster

RESEARCH RESIDENCY Making for Change I Waltham Forest I 2019

RESEARCH REPORT

CONTENT 52

SCENARIOS

METHODS

What are the aims and objectives of the Research Residency? To investigate the feasibility of the project, a field trip explores the innovative technology and a market survey is conducted to understand the demand and needs of independent designers, brands, and education. This research helps to build up Scenarios of Wash Labs and focusses on the interests of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers to develop a business case.

Different scenarios help to understand how a Wash Lab can be integrated into the London landscape. The scenarios help to discuss what is the best business case for Blackhorse Lane Ateliers to develop the Wash Lab in two stages. First, to use the facility for their own products and offer services to their costumers and second, to open up the Wash Lab to provide access to the technology for the wider community and education sector to democratise technology.

FIELD TRIP

FEASIBILITY STUDY + BUSINESS CASE

To understand how the technology can be implemented into Blackhorse Lane Ateliers and the London Community, a field trip is necessary to explore the innovative technology and sustainable practice of textile and garment finishings. This experimentation and primary research unlocks an objective view of their potential alongside actual sampling.

Introduction + Focus

Project Timeline: Two Stages

Aims + Objectives + Methods

Fianance: What about the costs?

Field Trip + Technology

Summary

Market Research + Interests

Visual Outcomes: Film + Exhibition

Case: Blackhorse Lane Ateliers

Attachment + Sources

Scenarios: Democratise Technology

RESEARCH REPORT

1.7

MILLION TONS OF CHEMICALS TO PRODUCE TWO BILLION PAIRS OF JEANS EVERY YEAR STONEWASH USES 682 LITERS OF WATER TO WASH 130 PAIRS OF JEANS https://www.greenpeace.de/detoxdiscounter

WASHING + FINISHING = AESTHETIC TREATMENT (FADED OR WORN OUT) + IMPROVEMENT OD SOFTNESS + COMFORT

FOCUS: TEXTILE PROCESSING AND GARMENT FINISHING The application of the garment finishing is just one step of the supply chain and in general designers, brands and decisionmakers of the product development are far away from this manufacturing process. This is why we need to focus on this part which has such a huge environmental impact: WATER POLLUTION: the release of dyeing and finishing wastewater including colours from dye, dissolved solids, total suspended particles, toxic (heavy) metals and residual chlorine = high chemical oxygen demand + high biochemical oxygen demand. AIR POLLUTION: dust of cotton, abrasives, and chemicals. WASTE: sludge, salt, and wastewater MANUAL LABOR: hand scraping, chemical, and toxic processes

DENIM - blue jeans is one of the items that is worn by people of all ages, classes, and genders. The mass production of denim jeans supplies the worldwide and incredibly high demand for new products every season. BUT the production of one pair of jeans takes an incredible amount of resources and production stages from growing the cotton to garments finishing. Especially the process of textile and garments treatment which is a small step of the production process but applied to every product has such a huge impact. What does this mean for us and our planet? Every step of the design process needs to be reviewed and innovative technology needs to lower the amount of water, chemicals and manual labor that goes hand in hand with the denim manufacturing.

https://www.carmenbusquets.com

WHY?

https://www.burton.co.uk/blog/denim-washes-and-finishes/

MANI FESTO

RESEARCH REPORTRESEARCH REPORT

“Technology helps to make every process more sustainable, safer, cleaner and less polluting. It helps to create new and better work figures with more focus on control, programming and design roles, leaving the executive work and all its associated risks and dangers to the machine“ - ALICE TONELLO

RESEARCH REPORT

MANIFESTO The Research Residency focusses on three core values that are important for me as a designer and researcher, and connetcs the vison and philosophy of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers.

WE MUST: TAKE CARE OF RESOURCES apply innovative technologies to use less water, chemicals & energy

BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS is a socially driven business in East London opening up their manufacturing business to the community to bring back craftsmanship and the appreciation for the garments and its production process.

1. Manufacturing at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers = ready-to-wear line of selvedge & organic raw denim jeans. But also the collaboration with like-minded London based fashion brands.

In their factory and atelier in London, they make ready-to-wear selvege & organic raw denim jeans. Their focus is o focus on sustainability, community and unmatched quality. With 25 years of experience within the textile industry, Han Ates founded Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in April 2016 and the open-door policy invites everyone to be part of their story and expertise. The business focusses on their visions ad main responsibilities to supports its holistic approach to a social-orientated business approach. Not just a sustainable product, but a transparent production process and social impact on their community to support localism and diversity. The aim is to bring back the mentality of making to London and interweave diverse fashion and non-fashion disciplines

2. Sampling and Production Service for brands and independent designers for the highest quality made in London. VALUES: QUALITY, COMMUNITY, ECO CONSCIOUSNESS

“We try to minimise the environmental impact of making denim garments by using organic cotton, denim woven in Europe, and offer a lifetime repair policy that discourages fast fashion.” - Blackhorse Lane Ateliers

WE MUST: FOCUS ON LOCALISM bring those processes back to the UK and develop our own washing identity WE MUST SUPPORT DIVERSITY give access to technology to smaller brands, designer & artists and do more research

“My desicions and projects are driven by my vallues” - Francesco Mazzarella

FOCUS

focus:WASH LAB &

INNOVATION HUB

What do we want to achieve with the project to democratise technology?

CLEAR TARGET DIRECTION

local access to sustainable and efficient textile finishing technology

ORIGINALITY

rethink supply chain structures: short ways for craftsmanship x innovation

QUALITY innovative technology involved in materiality & production process FEASIBILITY

opportunities of designers and makers: commercial & research background

LONG-TERM BENEFITS

create circular actions - rework common systems - support localism

DEGREE OF INNOVATION improve processes: integration of innovative technology - open source MARKET UNDERSTANDING

need to support designers/makers: open access to innovative technology

aims + objectives

research aim

objectives

to assess the viability of bringing technology for sustainable and efficient finishing on garments and textiles into Waltham Forest and -

TIMELINE

developing a feasibility study on the business case for providing this ser vice to local designers and makers to explore alternative innovation op portunities for designers to create val ue with this technology

To evaluate ways to integrate the in novative garment finishing technolo gies into Blackhorse Lane Ateliers

To conduct a market survey to un derstand the need of designers and makers

To develop and evaluate scenarios of the offered space and service

To develop a feasibility study and ana lyse business case to offer the service

timeline I research plan MARKET SURVEY observation experimentation interviews

SCENARIO MAPPING VISUALISATION

INTERVIEWS

medium ?! Outcome?

11 11

report feasability study EXHIBITION

RESEARCH REPORT

methods

FIELD TRIP 3 days of research

observation sampling experimentation interviews discussions

to understand the technology to experiment to see the facilities to understand what is needed

OBJECTIVE VIEW

MARKET SURVEY interviews

INDEPENDENT DESIGNERS - BRANDS - EDUCATORS - HUB FACILITATORS RESEARCHERS - TECHNICIANS - STUDENTS

BUSINESS ORIGAMI

scenarios virtual hubs

FOCUS GROUP feedback

FIELD TRIP I JEANOLOGIA

FIELD TRIP DIARY: 25th – 26th of September 2019

work together to achieve a change in the fashion industry. An industry that lacks innovation and has just slightly changed their practices in the last 150 years.

If you find a specific topic that awakes your interest, research is like a puzzle and you collect all the information out there to get the bigger picture. Preparing my trip to Jeanologia made it very easy to get a first impression of what power this technology must have an impact on process changes in the denim industry. Why easy? Because videos, images, interviews, and stories about their work process and collaborations are spread all over social media and the world wide web. So, of course, I knew that I had the chance to see behind the scenes and inform my research residency but being able to gain insides in their brand philosophy and way of working helped me to understand their bigger aim: Change. The way they have developed their technology but also their business approach is a holistic perspective addresses sustainability, craftsmanship, and innovation.

TECH ART DESIGN

But what was clear throughout this tour: The respect to the craftsmanship of denim finishing combined with the vision to use their technology to address the needs of our time. To manipulate the surfaces by hand scraping/stone washing etc is a traditional way and art but not contemporary and in any way appropriate for high productions. Having the craft and design of vintage jeans in mind, the developed technologies are changing the development process to use less water, chemicals, and improve the safety of the worker BUT create a new way of working. Hello 21st century: TECH x ART x DESIGN – it is about a new interpretation of designing. The demand of the market has changed so needs the MISSION approach of production and we need to Using technology does not automatically invent a new profession: Laser Designer mean to be sustainable – this is clear. We need to use technology to improve processes and THE SCHOOL think in an innovative way to control what we Innovation needs Training: The highlight for design and produce. Jeanologia has a clear me was to get to know ‘The School for Denim mission: To create an ethical, sustainable Laser Designer’ for Jeanologia. During and eco-efficient textile & apparel industry. a 4-month designers will be trained to To be more concrete: Not just to develop develop the special expertise to design and and promote their technologies but also use the technology. After their training, they educate and help their costumers to achieve spread their skillset and work with brands improvement in every step in garment and and production centers all over the world. textile finishing. My research at Jeanologia This approach of educating and sharing the started with a tour of the company and its knowledge to allow others to improve their departments. We started at the melting pot design process is needed to achieve change. of the company: the BRAIN BOX. People The technology is attached to a service to with diverse professional backgrounds help, educate and consult the ones using it working interdisciplinary in research and and does not end with the purchase. Yes, development. This is the way we must we need to think of long-term relationships work in the future: We must exchange if we develop a product, technology or knowledge and expertise. We should service. It is essential to think of the constant have the time and space to experiment. progress and improvement that goes Designers, physics, technicians, etc. must hand in hand with design and technology. 14

TRANSPARENCY + CONTROL

You often need to see how the fabric reacts and how processes will be adapted from the garment -the design process is always a journey and you do not know what your concrete outcome. This is a fun way of working as a student but in the industry, it is about control and quality of the individual steps and the produced garments. In textile and garment finishing with the traditional way, you have just a certain control how the, for example, the stone washing looks in the end or how the abrasion will turn out. With the technology of JEANOLOGIA and their software, you have control which affects you want to achieve but more you are completely transparent via their EIM software which calculates the amount of water, energy, and chemical you have used. But has also a parameter that talks about workers' safety. This tool helps the brand, designer, and production not just to have a clear number and overview but gives a clear insight into which processes can be changed to improve the environmental impact.

SMALL SCALE

Access to technology and innovation should not be a privilege for big companies that can effort buying the machines of JEANOLOGIA. No doubt this is an investment that cannot be done by smaller brands and is far off independent designers. BUT there are ways to allow access to research & development as well as smaller productions to small scale fashion brands.

– INNOVATION HUBS – – SMART LABS – – WASH & FINISHING CENTRES – – LASER DESIGN TECH –

perspective. This allows innovations to happen. Research can be done in terms of testing material innovation in a commercial context, exploring and testing Bio design and developing alternatives within the dye processes. Laundry techniques and the impact of microfibres are a field that still needs to be explored adapting behavior and material changes of the 21st century. For me, this technology is the beginning of a revolution in the textile and garment finishing industry. The impact of the last step of the design process is too often underrated within the whole process of fashion design. But there is too much potential to improve and change current techniques. We are forced to develop new business models and rethink our design processes: Why not starting with the idea of trash is our new raw material? How can the technology of garment finishing help to design against landfill? Watching videos about the innovative processes and reading the facts about how much water is saved through using Jeanologia was great for me as a designer to understand why we need to rework this process. But being in the facility, seeing their way of working and the motivation to think beyond growth and profit towards an industry that allows research and education within a commercial space were more insights then I was hoping to get from this trip. To sum up: We need to learn new tools in fashion to be able to sustain fashion design in the 21st century without destroying our planet.

You can call it however you want: The future needs to be space that allows access to independent designers, local makers, small to medium-sized fashion brands and especially to students (the designer of tomorrow). Those are the designers to have the time and freedom to experiment and explore niches – can think outside the box and use the technology from a different

Thanks to Stefano Tessarolo. Thanks to Carme Santacruz. Thanks to Mat Espiot. Thanks to Fernando Cardona. And thanks to the JEANOLOGIA TEAM.

FIELD TRIP I JEANOLOGIA

why more sustainable?

What do we need for the new way finishing garments:

Traditional Process VS innovative Process @Jeanologia

TECHNOLOGY

innovation in textile and garment finishings x traditional process vs redesigned process

TECH MACHINES Laser: Garment distressing Pre-Ozonic: Wash with ozone E-Flow : Water recycling SOFTWARE EIM: Overview Software The technology helps to reuse resources and save water, chemicals, and manual labor. Traditional processes will be simplified and the designer has more control over the amount of water, chemicals, and energy used for the finishings.

FIELD TRIP I JEANOLOGIA

WHAT? 1. FABRIC TESTING:

how different fabrics react to the laser technology + material sensitivity

2. WASHINGS:

treatments - softening - handfeel: developing wash recipes to understand the possibilities and impact of the software

3. LASER:

small customisation, prototyping and production: potential of the technology and the diverse areas of application

IMPRESSIONS OF THE FIELD TRIP TO JEANOLOGIA: Observation of fabric testing with laser to see reaction and materiality; Sampling with different wash variation in time etc.; Design process on-screen to play around with style and intensity; Exploration of showroom collection to discover variety and possibilities; Textiles of customisation samples; Labs used for retail ad unique one-off pieces + machines for mass consumption;

FIELD TRIP I JEANOLOGIA

SAMPLE 1

SAMPLE 2

SAMPLE 3

SCORE: LOW IMPACT 8

SCORE: LOW IMPACT 28

WASHING RECIPES & ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT = QUALITY AND REPRODUCIBILITY The software that goes along with the machines provides several advantages: 1. to be able to replicate the process and develop wash recepies that can be send offshore 2. with the software it is possible to compare the impact during the development process and see how much water, chemicals and energy is needed = supports a have a transparent overview of the processes

MAGAZINE

POTENTIAL BEYOND DENIM for textiles and garments

vintage vs vintage look adapting new proccesses. adapt future.

Secatibe runtum earum sincilla velenimus auta nobit raecus di omniet

COMMERCIAL CONCEPTS

JACKET =

mending + craft turns to emotional value

more explorations with tech - variety and experimentation

surface manipulation - fabric development - printing techniques

EXPERIMENTATIONS

CONCEPT = TECH + ART + DESIGN 22

FIELD TRIP I JEANOLOGIA

NEW SKILLSET: Laser Designer

improve work processes means to adapt our training and knowledge

To apply the laser technology to the design process and develop more environmental friendly production with the Ozone machines and the water recycling system need expertise ad ew developed skills. This knowledge need to be gained and forwarded to everyoe who wants to use the Lab. Jeanologia educates in a 4 month training at their headquarter in VAlencia to train Laser Designer. The aim is not oly to provide the machines for their costumers but an ever- evolving relationship that improves the processes throgh a constant conversation. I this case, inovation is not only to upgrade a machine or a software but to extend our skills as designer to tackle the problems of the 21st century. 24

MARKET RESEARCH

MARKET RESEARCH DEMAND & INTEREST: to investigate in the needs on differnet levels from experimentation to commercial purpose

brands can produce researcher can investigate students can learn alumni can develop artists can create makers can work designer can experiment

MARKET RESEARCH

WE WANT TO EXPERIMENT FREEDOM TO CREATE AND INTERACT: fast experimentation fast sampling fast results IMPROVEMENTS: no waiting time for prototypes short ways of communications no complicated supply chain

“In the past, the process of finishing a pair of jeans took hours of manual and meticulous labor. A person would have to physically and precisely tear or thin out parts of the fabric in order to create the intended effect. At Eureka, Levi’s has automated the process–making it possible for the brand to test more designs. This kind of technology also paves the way for more product personalization” - LEVIS - EUREKA LAB

FABRIC TESTING REQUIRED FOR MILLS & BRAND:

Fashion brands, production/manufacturing companies, and fabric suppliers need to have the assurance of a common quality standard. Working with the Wash Lab and Laser Technology also indicates to test how the fabric reacts and applies the right processes.

PROTOTYPING IN THE UK & SEND PRODUCTION OFFSHORE:

To prototype and develop wash recipes in the UK has advantages on so many levels: Instead of shipping actual garments worldwide, files of the wash instructions simplify the supply chain - the process of garment development and the communication between brand and production company. The design department brings closer the step of prototyping to shorten the ways of communication to develop their garment.

DEVELOPMENT CENTRE FOR NEW COLLECTIONS:

Brands that work in large scale production can use the Wash Lab as part of their collection development. This creates a better environment to develop their vision and allows more control and freedom in their way of developing collections.

REDUCED STOCK: one fabric - multiple opportunities:

BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS The Wash Lab will offer R&D access to large-scale production customers and allow the use of the facility so that even when their manufacturing is carried out off-shore, they could develop specific aesthetics and sustainable ‘recipes’ here in the UK and demand these same standards of their partners abroad. With its expertise and experience in denim, Blackhorse Lane Ateliers supports its clients to experiment with the new way of garment washing ad finishing.

With the support of Laser Designer and Technicians, the knowledge will be spread and the brands get support in their diverse undertaking. It is not only about using the machines but about developing a new denim culture in the UK.

One of the biggest advantages of using the technologies is to reduce the stock of fabric initially used to create the garments. Through the different washing and finishing that can be applied to the same fabric, there are endless opportunities for the same fabric to adapt to various looks.

companies: easy prototyping 29

MARKET RESEARCH

WE HAVE NEW APPROACHES SMALL SCALE PRODUCTION:

To use new technology and get access to innovation in terms of machines is a privilege of big brands that can afford either the technology themselves or have a production company that invested. Medium-sized and small scale brands with a smaller production get the chance to do their production in the UK and have control of their prototyping in production. Due to the high capacity of the Wash Lab small production runs are easily possible.

FREEDOM TO DEVELOP: new ways to create brands and business models

CUSTOMISED PRODUCTS & INDIVIDUALISATION:

“drive for the future and find new business models with the laser to implement change no intention to copy the past but drive for improved processes”

The advantage of having a Wash Lab within London is to develop new business models that allow more individualisation of the product and include the costumers’ preference in the design process. Customisation adds value to the product and can increase the attachment and emotional bonding between the consumer and the garment. New business models can be turned into action from start-ups that want to experiment with their design development.

INTERDISCIPLINARY COLLABORATIONS

The Wash Lab gives space to develop interdisciplinary collaboration and connect fashion with other practices. Technology and innovation support the development of new and emerging products, services or even business models. A designer can play along with new material developments and redesign the development process of textiles.

emerging designers: new business models 30

- CARME SANTACRUZ

DISRUPTIVE BUSINESS MODELS & BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS

Previous customers included premium UK and international brands: Belstaff, Christopher Raeburn, Ben Sherman, John Blackhorse Lane Ateliers has a socially- Smedley, Martine Rose, Nigel Cabourn, oriented business model and supports small Turnbull & Asser, Studio Nicholson. businesses with their visions. Disruptive Blackhorselane Ateliers offers small Business Models and new startups need production runs and provides denim a space to experiment and develop their consultancy including pattern-cutting work processes - this Wash Lab and the and sampling. We want to grow this service offered by Blackhorse Lane Ateliers revenue by providing unique, competitive, supports the new development of this kind local and fully-integrated manufacturing of company. including washes, to our customers. B-2-B Service gives UK based brands the possibility to develop sustainable denim products and make not only their products but also their design process more sustainable. This service makes up 65% of the current business activity and revenue. 31

Additonally, they are also home to other small businesses: restaurant, textile weaving and paper making. Working in one space with dofferent disciplines is a important aspect.

MARKET RESEARCH

who could be a potential user of the hub?

london based brands

new emerging concepts 32

UK based weaving mills & manufacturers 33

MARKET RESEARCH

WE WANT TO EXPLORE EMPOWERING STUDENTSSKILLS NEW TO THE INDUSTRY:

To work as a designer in the 21st century means to develop new skillsets and to change the development process. Various steps will be redefined and new skills demanded by the industry.

PREPARE STUDENTS FOR JOBS OF THE FUTURE:

To give students the best skill set for the industry means to start in their education with industrial processes. If the industry is changing, the curriculum ad education need to be adapted as well. Innovation needs to happen already involved in fashion education to prepare students for jobs in the 21st century.

BROADER UNDERSTANDING OF THEIR ACTIONS:

“Space to activate potential and deal with processes and techniques that are far away from their own practice but very valuable for the future” - ARNOLD GEVERS EDUCATION AT BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS Universities and schools are welcome at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers to visit their factories and explore their work processes. To give insights into the manufacturing side and the business, tours are regularly hosted for groups without being charged. This is part of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers’ values as a socially-orientated business-model. This goes along with their complete transparency about their working processes, business practices, and supply chain.

The factory in Walthamstow is open to the public to create connectivity between the community and the makers. To open up about the process of garment manufacturing gives the end consumer more connection to the product and has hopefully a positive impact on the appreciation of the garments.

To educate the best means to give them an understanding of the holistic processes of the fashion industry. Including industry processes in the curriculum give the student a more in-depth understanding of their decisions made during the design process. The approach of education should be about collaboration and cooperation .

students: education & research 35

MARKET RESEARCH

Who could be a potential user of the hub?

fashion + textile universities 36

MARKET RESEARCH

WE HAVE TO RESEARCH future research & development: opportunities for innovation

Research & Development at BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS Blackhorse Lane Ateliers with their socially oriented business model will partner with educational establishments, give access to their students and enable them to use and learn about denim-washing locally. The aim is to create expertise in denim

manufacturing and washing to gain and exchange knowledge. It is essential to bring back appreciation and awareness of sustainable washing techniques which students and researcher can take with them and implement in their future manufacturing

WASTE IS THE NEW RAW MATERIAL research in recycling

LAUNDRY TECHNIQUES research challenging wash habits:

focussing on offcuts? working with post consumer waste?

x Assessing the market value of sustainable washing: quality of laundry techniques

x take back garment waste: redesign/rework pre/post - consumer waste and developing new business models

x Microfibres/Chemicals/Dyes: development of sustainable methods to investigate in topics like microplastic

x focussing on a way to recycle materials by transforming surface instead of downcycle fibres

x Development of natural dyes: long term tests of wash tests & quality control

aim:

@OpenCell @ELVDENIM

university & organisation: research 38

no new raw material and diverse starting point of design process

x Washing habits of society and individuals aim:

adapt washing habits and cosumer education

FABRICS: EXPERIMETS TO COMMERCIAL research in material futures/biodesign

DESIGN FOR RENTING research in rental service:

x Material testing lab for MA Material Futures - Biofabric (Open Cell) x Development of natural dyes: long term wash tests & quality control

=design for renting and explore what it means to design for renting what does the impact of increased washing of garments have on the garment, design etc.

x Development of recycled materials and development of new fabrics

aim:

material testig - commercial aspect

adapt the design process

MAGAZINE

Who could be a potential user of the hub?

organisations & companies 40

interational yarn & fabric suppliers

MARKET RESEARCH

WE WANT THE UNPREDICTABLE FINE ART SCULPTURES MIXED MEDIA ARCHITECTURE TEXTILE INSTALLATION ART AS DRIVER FOR CHANGE ogy as a medium to communicate. The innovative way of reworking surfaces can be compared to the traditional ways of hand scraping and through a mix of techniques, new aesthetics can be explored. Art is a tool to make people aware and help to think beyond the known. A Wash Lab gives space for visions and allows the unpredictable to grow. BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS collaborates with diverse artists like Ian Berry and supports with their expertise and offcut materials to develop new work of arts.

https://thejeansblog.com/

Makers and artists can use the Wash Lab and Laser as a new tool and are able to develop new craftsmanship around using innovative techniques. Experimentations with the technology, materials and the way using the machines can be a way to explore the potential. Art allows it to bring the processes into a new context and work on a small scale but also huge dimensions. The freedom of artists is to think not in a commercial way but to explore beyond boundaries. The outcome could be speculative design projects that open the conversation and use the technol

“Denim is an infinitely inspiring object. There are many things I have not expressed in denim yet. Denim is the most perfect way to communicate with the world. “ - IAN BERRY

artists: visions 42

BLACKHORSELANE ATELIERS

FEASIBILITY STUDY brining innovative technology to BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS

R & D at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers The aim is to develop R&D around sustainable denim-washing through the implementation of the first-ever state-of-theart, a sustainable denim-washing laboratory in London. Blackhorse Lane cherishes the processes of manufacturing and expertise

of the design and development of denim. To develop a holistic culture in “DENIM MADE IN LONDON” the next step is to make textile and garment finishing accessible for medium and small scale designers and support a new and uncomplicated way of prototyping.

I. DEVELOP A UNIQUE ‘LONDON’ DENIM-WASHING IDENTITY &AESTHETIC = since there are no facilities in London and the UK, this aesthetic could not be developed yet and there has been no research on commercial level II. FACILITATE R&D AROUND SUSTAINABLE LAUNDERING & FINISHING TECHNIQUES = the fashion indusrty lacks in research around textiles and garment finishing, especially in terms of use phase and circularity III. DEVELOP NEW SKILLSET = DEMAND FOR SUSTAINABLE LAUNDERING & FINISHING =garments needs to be sent off shore, so there is no chance to develop a skillset for sustainable laundering and finishing techniques IV. BUILD ON EXISTING SOCIALLY-ORIENTATED BUSINESS MODEL = new expertise adds value to current open door policy and opportunity to educate the community not oly in manufacturing but laundry techniques V. INCREASE BUSINESS REVENUE = new services can be offered to the costumers which would change the manufacturing side through lack of offered garment finishing VI. REDUCE PRODUCTION COSTS = products do not sent to other service partners to be treated and in house treatments would decrease the costs for those VII. LOWER THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF THE WASHING PROCESS = innovative technology would lower the usage of water, chemicals and replace manual labor next to the CO2-Emissions that enhance through sending worldwide prototypes

BLACKHORSELANE ATELIERS

HUB OF INOVATION, EXPERIMENTATION AND RESEARCH

= RESEARCH DEVELOPMENT & COMMERCIAL CONTEXT Large-scale production to create wash ‘recipes’ that will be replicated in larger scale in production

KEY RESEARCH FOR BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS: X LOCALISM:

Bringing garments and textile finishing - steps of the design process - back into the UK. What is the impact of this on cost savings, process development and the environ mental impact?

a place for fast and uncomplicated processes

Which expertise can we develop?

= COMMUNAL MAKER SPACE Sustainable washing services for smaller production quantities: brands, designers, local makers

= EDUCATION & EXPERIMENTS Place for universities and students to do research and experiments

What impact does bringing this into the UK have on business and creativity?

X CIRCULARITY

Circular approaches to denim production in East London and the use of offcuts. How can we build circular processes reu ing denim offcuts? What does business and solutions can we create to include preconsumer waste of East London businesses? How can we develop new business models with post-consumer waste?

BLACKHORSELANE ATELIERS

BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS Current business model + Revenue streams

TIMELINE Year 1 - 2

Year 2 -4

BLA will be working with small-scale production (B2C and B2B): The R&D to facilitate ever-more sustainable laundering and finishing techniques, as well as to develop new washing recipes in line with an emerging ‘London’ aesthetic is an ever-evolving aspect of the project and will continue in line with the demands of our customers.

REVENUE STREAM

Stage 1: R&D for UK Wash Aesthetic Stage 2: Production ( small scale B2B and B2C production & larger B2B customers can develop their wash recipes Stage 3: Education: academia in the exploration of R&D opportunities and involve education The aim is to build on the current business and to develop in line with our sociallyorientated, community ethos, and to create extra jobs.

RETAIL AND WHOLESALE

The business is divided into two sectors:

The ready-to-wear collections are sold 1. Product (B2C - 35% of revenue) through our own retail spaces which = own products including denim jeans for are online, the Factory Store and the men and women + jackets Denim Concept Store at Coal Drops Yard. Additionally, the types of denim are sold in 15 international wholesale sports. 2. Services (B2B - 65% of revenue) Our own-brand makes up 35% of our =manufacturing service for more than business activity and revenue. Through 40 London based Brands + diverse our direct-to-retail model, we can test collaboration projects sales trends and market demand for new products quickly and we want to enhance our product offer by adding With the R&D project, Blackhorse Lane washed garments to our current range. Ateliers can expand -both - B2C and B2B revenues by 60%/pa which equates to approximately £300,000/pa .

“Our aim is not simply to apply the same practices as existing companies in the washing industry abroad who are setting gold standards for sustainable practice, but to improve on the current sustainable washing offer through a unique community-collaborative approach with both commercial partners and academia. Through this local, commercial and creative R&D we will push the boundaries of existing environmentally and socially sustainable models and help the creation of a new aesthetic identity in denim-washing – a ‘London’ washing style that will influence the UK sociocultural fashion landscape. Furthermore, we know that investment in R&D is a key factor in industry sector growth and that when creative R&D projects are facilitated, the ultimate impact on the wider economy can be huge.” -BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS

BLACKHORSELANE ATELIERS

sampling at BLACKHORSE LANE

BLACKHORSELANE ATELIERS

There are no R&D washing facilities in the UK, creating various challenges for the sector in general and Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in particular. The Wash Lab aims to address the following Blackhorse Lane Ateliers miss out on B2C issues arising from the lack of R&D sales of washed garments as they cannot laundering facilities: offer them to our retail customers. Additoonally, loss of B2B customers to - no new and innovative techniques and integrated systems abroad because there are systems developed and implemented within no existing expert sustainable washhouses the UK sector. here in the UK. At the same time, B2B customers are often - Reduced investment in and development dissatisfied with the service and quality of washing R&D skills and facilities offer from off-shore laundries and the lack of sustaianable practices. - Lack of control and clarity regarding sustainable practices of off-shore Blackhorse Lane Ateliers wants to increase facilities awareness of and encourage more sustainable manufacturing through our AIM: openness and transparency. Development of London WASH AESTHETIC Thei aim is to achieve business by applying inovative technology and to growth in line with their values of pioneer more sustainable standards in the locality, community and sustainability. industry. This creates a new local skillset and know-how.

“We do not work with off-shore laundries because their aesthetic is not aligned with our ‘London’ style, and because of the added environmental impact of sending garments to wash abroad.” -BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS

Wash Samples of Blckhorse Lane Ateliers

developing a UK wash IDENTITY 51

MARKET RESEARCH

Which scenario would be best to connect the community and democratise technology? These four scenarios represent ways to create a space for innovative technology and to bring garment and laser finishing techniques into London. The idea is to create a Wash Lab to do research, start prototyping and small-scale production in the UK. The Wash Lab should be open accessible to signed up members and students.

where to set up the space

1. LOGISTICS

SPACE PROVIDING AIR CIRCULATION / ELECTRICITY: in any scenario, space needs to be adjusted for a safe work envi ronment to offer the best work condition with the machines. High ceilings are an advantage to keep the air circulation next to adapt electricity and plumbing systems.

TRAINED PERSON WORKING WITH THE MACHINES:

Jeanologia could provide one trained person that would take

over the lab management for the first year and teach other tech nicians and designers how to work with the software ad machines.

2.COMBINING TECHNOLOGY

BUSINESS ORIGAMI 52

For the actual Wash Lab, the idea is to combine technology from Jeanologia and Tonello to combine their expertise. The aim is to mix expertise from both companies to improve processes and learn from independent sources and merge visions for a greater impact reworking the current processes.

RESEARCH REPORT

CONCEPT: Wash Lab in a city and for community.

CONCEPT: Wash Lab integratedin a fashion brand

the global hub for information on jeans, jeans specialists are brought together to research and develop the highest quality jeans using state-of-the-art facilities.

see - Uniqlo

see USA - LEVI‘S EUREKA LAB

CONCEPT: Wash Lab as Pop Up

see - 1083 FRANCE

see - AMSTERDAM DENIM CITY

CONCEPT: Independet maker space.

CONCEPTS: Maker space connected to univeristy.

see LEVIS - PROJECT F.L.X. Project F.L.X. (future-led execution)

„industry game-changer that ushered the process into the digital era. To speed up our ideation and creation process while delivering authenticity with advanced agility,” - Chief Product Officer Karyn Hillman see - MAKER SPACE MUNICH

see - THE MILLS HONG KONG

SCENARIOS

Scenario #1

Wash Lab at BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS

- WASH Lab not integrated in the space - Container with technology and machines attached to BLA

CONTAINER WASH LAB

TRANSITIONAL SOLUTION to offer the service and test the demand

PRO CON

- easy to set up / test the service in-house - very small facility - limited space for growth

SCENARIOS

Scenario #2

Wash Lab & Innovatio Hub in WALTHAMSTOW / EAST LONDON

- Container with machines, laser + work space - Placed in Walthomstow / East London

CONTAINER WASH LAB

WORK SPACE WORK SPACE Transitional solution OR POP UP SPACE for limited time

PRO - pop up with flexibility to move around London CON - not ideal to establish a known place

SCENARIOS

Scenario #3

Wash LAB & Innovation HUB - EAST LONDON

DENIM LAB WASH LAB in open accessible space in East London Set up FLEXI LAB + Laundry Tumblers + Recycling Water System + Ozone Technology + Laser Lab

Permanent space facilitated in collaboration with Blackhorse Lane Ateliers

PRO

- open and easy access to community and brands - potential to grow and merge with other innovations

CON - independent business model needs facilitator

SCENARIOS

Scenario #4

Wash Lab & Innovation HUB in the UNIVERSITY

RESEARCH CENTRE - UNI Wash Lab 3D Printer

PART OF UNIVERSITY Wash Lab integrated within other research centres: Centre for Sustainble Fashion Centre for Circular Design Centre for Social Enterprise Digital Antrophologie Lab and others... Creative Innovation Hub mixed technology and disciplines

PRO - well connected to university: students and research centres - good connection to other technologies and expertise

3D - Modelling + CAD Programmes

Body Scanner

BUSINESS CASE

FINANCE : BUSINESS CASE WASH LAB X BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS How much will it cost? Financial data.

Stage 1: WASH LAB x BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS

- BLA anticipate revenue to grow by 60% in this area. - impact aesthetic and sustainability standards in manufacturing in the UK B2C PRODUCTS : - providing access to sustainable, - represent the `London` Style & are state-ofthe-art laundering R&D sustainable washed garments. for both industry and education There is a substantial demand for partners these products - develop not just a washing = Blackhorse Lane Ateliers laboratory but an ever-evolving anticipates revenue to grow by 60% collaborative business in this area. opening the laboratory to R&D -large companies, who require B2B SERVICES: a more industrial, off-shore, - offer sustainable, integrated production. washing services Our facility would allow them to BLA have managed off-shore sample sustainable washing recipes washing for several customers with a London aesthetic here in the and see an increasing demand for UK, then replicate these with their higher-quality and more local and partners abroad. sustainable laundering options. - independent designers / smaller Customers requested and move brands to do small production runs to integrated (manufacturing + washing) factories off-shore, who are able to provide a more streamlined service.

Stage 1: Focussing on Blackhorse Lane Ateliers Blackhorse Lane Ateliers would generate the revenue to sustain the business Stage 2: Opening up to community use The community focussed stage 2 would enable people to build their skills and gain experience with the wash lab and laser technology. This would benefit the business because this aspect can feed into the commercial business in long term thinking. This balance socially economically and sustainable business approach. This is an appealing model for funders and it demonstrates commercial sustainability and social impact. This can be built upon further by demonstrating that by opening up the Lab to the community once it is commercially sustainable, new designers and the local community can develop their skills and products, which in turn may feed into the commercial running of the Lab as their businesses develop themselves. This is developing a pipeline of commercial partners for the Lab to grow.

Stage 2: WASH LAB x COMMUNITY - universities looking for training and R&D opportunities for their students to experiment with new washing aesthetics and learn about sustainable laundering.

BUSINESS CASE

COSTS: WASH MENUE

COMMERCIAL PROTOTYPING/PRODUCTION access for brand to do prototyping - developing wash recipes+ production

PIECES Jacket

Tops Jeans New = Samples

Rinse Enzyme Wash Stone Wash Dye Laser/Rinse Laser/Enzyme Wash Laser/Stone Wash Laser/Dye

£6,00 £3,00 £4,00 £9,00 £6,00 £11,00 £4,50 £7,50 £6,00 £3,00 £4,00 £10,00 £7,00 £8,00 £13,00 £10,00 £15,00 £8,50 £11,50 £10,00 £7,00 £8,00

£50,00 £75,00 £75,00 £125,00 £150,00 Sample prices: Higher costs for style development

Average Price of Wash/Laser = £7,80 Rent - Half Day: £740,00 Rent - Full Day: £1.184,00 (20 percent discount) Rent - Weekly: £4.736,00 (20 percent discount)

Capacity of the WASH LAB The Wash Lab can be used to do experiments, prototypes and small production runs. Diverse processes request different times. In general, the max capacity would be to wash 20 garments per hour. = =

20 160 800

Garments / hour Garments / day Garments / week

in comparism to sending it off-shore: >40 Pounds = 2 loads per day to reimburse

Market Value Cost to wash external but NOT with sustainable wash maschines: 25 jeans = 120 pound 4,8 per jeans 4 per jean jacket *prices taken from current wash facility = in UK but not with Ozone/Laser but traditional Wash (Prestige Dye - UK)

BUSINESS CASE

Stage 1: WASH LAB x BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS FACTS To see how high the demand is for those finishings, in 2019

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers offers their clients to send their garments to an external washing facility (=not innovative garment washing with Ozone/Laser). The aim is to offer the service in their own Wash Lab and with the innovative technology.

200

garments from BLA

2300

garments from costumers of BLA were sent off to do washings.

350

Stage 2: WASH LAB x COMMUNITY HOW TO SUBSCRIBE AS

STUDENTS / DESIGNER - UNIVERSITIES / RESEARCH CENTRE

To open up space to the community and offering the services to a range of designers ad makers, the idea could be to offer memberships and subscriptions.

MEMBERSHIPS = community aspect Memberships should allow students, alumni and independent designers to use the lab for experimentation and research purposes. A membership allows you to do 25 Washes per Month and Wash Development. Access after commercial business hours and on weekends.

sample projects

Standard Student & Alumni Membership Membership MARKET RESEARCH AT BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS Within their current costumers, there are brands that would use the offered washing and finishings services through Blackhorse Lane Ateliers.

Yearly Pass 1350 675 Monthly Pass 150 75 TRAINING FEE : 100 Pound

Universities are interested to integrate the Wash Lab in their curriculum. UAL with their research centres and diverse fashion and textile courses the Lab will be integrated for lectures and workshops. Best to the fashion courses, the MA Fashion Futures at LCF or MA Material Futures, in particular, would benefit from the Lab. The business courses could see this business model as part of their case studies.

POTENTIAL SCHEDULE : 7 days open mo/tue/wed/thu/fr brands + fabric mills / commercial + production independent brands + designers sat / sun students + university -research centres

SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions from universities and research Centres should allow securing that research will be done on the various level in the WASH LAB. Secondly, the lab could be used to integrate the lab into the curriculum: lectures & workshops. Space would offer up to 30 students to work collaboratively on a project:

Following brands and colleges that are interested in the Lab and current costumers and collaboration partners.

This model enables the community to use it and would not focus on commercial context. 68

BUSINESS CASE

CASE 1: WASH LAB at BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS

Initial Investment: Machinery: £140.609 Building Set up: £36.077

BUSINESS CASE

CASE 1: WASH LAB at BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS

BREAK-EVEN ANALYSIS

MACHINE + SOFTWARE PRICES

- RUNNING COSTS-

are offers from the companies - 2019: = Initial Investment (machines + rebuilt space)

YEAR 1

YEAR 2

YEAR 3

£2.528

£3.260

Costs of WASH LAB per month

= £176.609

(Calculated with 46 weeks / year) £1613

SPACE RENTAL:

Space in current Blackhorse Lane Ateliers Building (adapt the current space) monthly costs are added that are needed to sustain the space

Costs of WASH LAB per day (Calculated 5 days / week) £322 £505 £652 Quantity of garments (to cover the costs - 7,8 £ per Wash) 41 64 84

MANUFACTURING SIDE power consume energy power: 8 hours of works Laser and ozone lab: 12 kw 12 x 8 x price energy in UK

ELECTRICITY:

WASH LAB

Capacity of WAS LAB Blackhorse Lane Ateliers Grow & Dye Katherine May Grow & Dye Katherine May Leather Jonatan Staniec

Tel: 01604 259240 Fax: 01604 259244 www.bcworkspace.co.uk info@bcworkspace.co.uk

Weave Sophies Reeves

Title

Pedro’s Table Pedro Passinhas

Scale

Blackhorse Lane Denim

Drawing No.

Date Drawn by

STAFF:

to reach Break-Even Point 25% 40% 53%

bcworkspace. 25 Lodge Road Little Houghton Northampton NN7 1AE

JR 04 - 03 - 2016 - 001 NTS 29th March 2016

A Parker and C Lammiman

Average Price - Cost per Wash

£7,80

100% Capacity = 160 Garments per Day

Average wage of Laser Designer (trained by Jeanologia) Year 1: one full time Year 2 : one full time + one part time Year 3: two full time + one part time To lower the costs there will be only one staff in Year 1 since the full capacity won’t be used. OTHER COSTS: estimation by current BLA costs and in comparism to maker spaces

MAGAZINE

CASE 2: Blackhorse Lane Ateliers renting space in East London

Initial Investment: Machinery: £140.609 Building Set up: £36.077

MAGAZINE

CASE 2: Blackhorse Lane Ateliers renting space at THE TRAMPERY MACHINE + SOFTWARE PRICES

MAGAZINE

BREAK-EVEN ANALYSIS - RUNNING COSTS-

are offers from the companies - 2019: = Initial Investment (machines + rebuilt space)

YEAR 1

YEAR 2

YEAR 3

£3152

£3.884

Costs of WASH LAB per month

= £176.609

(Calculated with 46 weeks / year) £1898 SPACE RENTAL: Offered Space of the Trampery = £30.000 per year but: Year 1: 6-month rent for free

Costs of WASH LAB per day (Calculated 5 days / week) £380 £630 £777 Quantity of garments (to cover the costs - 7,8 £ per Wash) 48 88 90

ELECTRICITY:

power consume energy power: 8 hours of works Laser and ozone lab: 12 kw 12 x 8 x price energy in UK

Capacity of WAS LAB

STAFF:

to reach Break-Even Point 30% 50% 61%

Average Price - Cost per Wash

£7,80

100% Capacity = 160 Garments per Day

OTHER COSTS: estimation by current BLA costs and in comparism to maker spaces and in comparison to maker spaces

MAGAZINE

SUM UP: PROBLEM

CUSTOMER SEGMENTS

VALUE PROPOSITION

SOLUTION

- No local wash production within London. - Current unsustainable approach to washed jean production. - Lack of ability to meet consumer demand for local washed - demin. - Blackhorse Lane Ateliers are currently limited to raw styles of jean - No opportunity for skills development within London - Disconnect between local makers

- New Blackhorse Lane Atelier consumers - London based brands - National weaving mills and manufacturers - Universities - Local makers + artists - Students

- Locally sourced washed jean production - Sustainable production of washed jeans - Provision of local maker facilities - Closing of knowledge gaps through accesible, open facilities - Locally sourced, sustainable washed jeans made and washed in London - global reach

REVENUE STREAMS

COSTS

- Direct to consumer selling - Direct costumer service - Commercial partnerships with other brands using the washing facility - Membership model aimed at: Students and researchers Local producers and makers Commercial brands and mills - Set up costs for machinery - Staff costs for lab management - Utility costs for machinery, factory and waste"

WHAT VALUE WILL THE PROJECT BRING UPON COMPLETION?

KEY METRICS - Net revenue

- Number of sales - Environmental impact (waste generated, water used, energy used, delivery miles) - Number of memberships - Number of membershp renewals - Facility usage per membership category - Overall facility usage - Costs - particularly utility

CHANNELS

Textile and garment finishings are processes that have been taken away from the designers and place of decision making.

- Existing partner engagement - Online communications - Stakeholder mapping of potential partnersand relationships - collaborations - co-branding

designer + consumer: need to understand the importance of these steps and impact on our everyday life.

- A new facility for Blackhorse Lane Ateliers to widen their range of denim products. - The ability for BHL to develop new styles and production methods to enhance the sustainability credentials of the brand. - A new avenue for commercial partnerships with nationally based brands and producers - A space for research and development of new styles and processes enabling more sustainable production and design - A community focus allowing local makers to use the space and produce their own jeans and styles

We need to see the importance of sustainable wash and garment finishing as sustainable practice and adapt our work processes.

COMPETITIVE - BHL is an established recognised brand within London ADVANTAGE - BHL has a wide array of partners already

engaged - BHL has existing commercial partners to which washed denim products would be of interest" - There are currently no other washing facilities within London

MAGAZINE

Legacies: Beyond Fashion Activism This event will inspire a cultural conversation around the activities and impacts generated from the ‘Making for Change: Waltham Forest’ project. Developed in partnership between Centre for Sustainable Fashion and Waltham Forest Council for London Borough of Culture 2019 and the Great Place scheme, the project has used fashion activism and making as catalysts for positive change. However, as the London Borough of Culture year is coming to an end, this raises issues of what legacies have been activated beyond the project’s timeframe and funding?

LINK TO FILM: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=Szjtr8nvJ84

Exhibition & Making for Change - Film As part of the Making for Change-Project and with support of London College of Fashion and Waltham Forest, the Outcomes of the Research Residency will be exhibited in the community space in Walthamstow at the Arbeit Studios. To showcase the project, a film with interviews from Han Ates and Anna Schuster will give insights in the aims and objectives of the project and captures moment of the factory annd the inovative technology from the field trip to Jeanologia. 80

FASHION ACTIVISM - PHOTOGRAPHY

FASHION ACTIVISM & PROTEST

COLLABORATION ACROSS DISCIPLINES The idea is to use deim as communication tool and create a photoshoot that expresses values connected to the style: ACTIVISM, YOUTH and ENGAGEMENT 82

Photography: @sannisaarelainen

DENIM JACKETS - JOA.FASHIONMADELOCAL

DESIGNS ANNA SCHUTSER_ VARIOUS COLLECTION

DENIM JEAN SAMPLES - DONE WITH THE HELP OF JEANOLOGIA

Denim as visual trigger for sustainable commuication

ATTACHMENT

QUESTIONS: MARKET SURVEY 1. 2. 3.

Facts about Blackhorse Lane Facts about Jeanologie The perspective of Designer / Brand / Educator

Is fashion technology an area of interest and does it play a role in sustainability for you? Where are you doing your research in terms of fashion innovation? How do you see the potential of involving technology and innovative practices for designers and brands? How would you describe your access to technology and innovation within your design process? FASHION EDUCATION Is technology part of your fashion education? (Laser Cutting, 3D printing, etc) Who offered you to use the technology or do you know where you do research? If yes – was it easy for you to access those technologies? Do you have access to maker spaces – do you know any maker spaces around you? TECHNOLOGY What kind of fashion technology are you interested in? And which technology would you be interested in using for your own work? Would you work with new technology for a collection and would you investigate learning new technologies for your brand? If you have the possibility to learn new technology and use it for your own designs: Would you like to be interested in learning it by yourself or train your designers? How could you imagine getting introduced to new technology? Workshop - 1 to 1 - Course Would you be interested in having a regular membership to a research HUB and to be able to work with the offered techniques? Would you rather pay someone who is applying new technologies to your designs? LOCALISM & SUSTAINABILITY What role do you think is playing localism in terms of sustainability? Does localism – local sourcing of materials, local production, local design development play a role for you in sustainability? Did you ever think of bringing more steps of the design processes into your own local environment? UNIVERSITY TEACHER How likely are students using new offered research hubs and technologies? Do you think there is still a demand for offering alumni access to technologies? Where do you get information about innovations regarding new technologies/material innovations? What kind of technologies have you worked within your design process? What would be research areas that you would connect with this washing and textile finishing progresses?

ATTACHMENT

MARKET SURVEY BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS Han Ates Annie Gurney LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION Francesco Mazzarella Julia Crew WALTHAMSTOW COUNCIL Annette Russel JEANOLOGIA Carme Santa Cruz Stefano Tessarolo Mathiew Espiot Holom Cornel Betina Grosser Martins Belén Pemartin Comella TONELLO Alice Tonello Alberto Lucchin DESIGNER & EDUCATOR Arnold Gevers - AMD Munich Noorin Khamisani - School of Design Dubai FASHION CLUTTER Helen Lax SOURCEBOOK Marte Hentschel HUGO BOSS Darya Tretyakova Fatma Lokman TOMMY HILFIGER Giulia Grigolon INDEPEDENT DESIGNER Humeera Dar Olivia Weber Jesse Lee Julia English Lauent Hermann Progin ARTIST Sarah Grübel

FOCUS GROUP

Presentation of the four scenarios to discuss the further steps of the business case:

Han Ates Annie Gurney Anna Ellis Yanina Aubry Patrick Scally Carme Santa Cruz Helen Lax Alana Kennedy Franzesco Mazarella

ATTACHMENT

QUESTIONS: TONELLO & JEANOLOGIA Which of your products would be suitable for Blackhorse Lane Ateliers and their mission to create space for collaboration (open access to universities and brands)? Which product would you recommend (offer) Blackhorse Lane Ateliers to use for their use at first and which technology would be good to “update” the facility? What equipment to you need additionally if you use the Laundry machines and to set up a space to use it best? (extra washing machines? / dryer? etc) To use the machines do you need to be able to use a certain software / do you need computers to activate the machines? USING THE MACHINE -For Health and Safety: Who is able to use the machines and what training needs to be done to use the machines? How many people need to be in a room to use the machines? Is it a software that designer/people can learn? Do you need a constant supervisor: Is always someone required to watch the machines, or can the machine be programmed and work on its own? How long would be the training for people to use the machines on its own? Workshop or longer training? LAUNDRY MACHINE: How many washings can be made with the machine per day – is there a difference if you repeat the same washing routine or change it after every use? How many programs and what are the diverse possibilities for the machine offered to Blackhorse Lane Ateliers? What kind of materials would you recommend getting the best result? Regarding recycled qualities: Cotton / recycled cotton? – Is there a difference in the quality of the outcome is the raw material is not a virgin fibre? Do you have to test every new material before using the machines? COLLABRATION Working with smaller brands / artists – how was your experience with offering the technology to designers? Have you seen a different between commercial brands and independent designers/brands using the technology? Is the laundry service as interesting for independent designers as the laser technology? Which of your offered technology is the most used by smaller designers/makers? I am interested in how to make Jeanologia more accessible for smaller artists and brands – do you have any thoughts/suggestion how to? How is your experience in collaboration with single designers to use the maschines? Did they do a lot of experimentation/research before applying the technology? Do you have experience working with students and the machines? Do you think there is a way to include the machines in fashion education (field trip/workshop)? What kind of possibilities of collaboration do you have working with the machines next to denim? ( jersey? Knit? Wool? Accessories? Leather? Textiles?) How would you imagine implementing the technology of TONELLO/JEANOLOGIA in education or open source HUBs? Is there an open and transparent user guide for the “washing recipes” or guidelines? Can you give me some more examples of designer/brands/artists using the laundry machines?

ATTACHMENT

SOURCES

PRIMARY RESEARCH

Ana Galán Herranz, 2018. Jeanologia: Ein spanisches Startup krempelt die Jeans-Produktion. https:// reset.org/blog/jeanologia-ein-spanisches-startup-krempelt-die-jeans-produktion-um-03152018 Levi Strauss & Co. 2015. THE LIFE CYCLE OF JEAN. Levi Strauss & Co.. http://levistrauss.com/ wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Full-LCA-Results-Deck-FINAL.pdf Levi Strauss & Co. , 2017. WELCOME TO THE LAB. https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/blog/article/welcome-to-levis-eureka-innovation-lab Levi Strauss & Co. , 2018. Project F.L.X. Set to Revolutionize the Customization Experience. https:// www.levistrauss.com/2018/08/13/project-f-l-x-set-revolutionize-customization-experience/ Fletcher, K., Grose, L. & Hawken, P., 2012. Fashion and Sustainability: Design for Change. Cambridge: Laurence King Publishing. Fletcher, K. & Tham, M., 2014. Routledge Handbook of Sustainability and Fashion. s.l.:Routledge. Gullingsrud, A., 2017. Fashion Fibers: Designing for Sustainability. s.l.: Bloomsbury. Hills, K., n.d. Top 15 Yorkshire textile mills. LEVERTON, A., 2018. TONELLO & THE DENIM LAUNDRY REVOLUTION. Miller, D., 2010. Global Denim. s.l.:Berg Publishers. Muthu, S., 2017. Sustainability in Denim. s.l.:Woodhead Publishing. Paul, R., 2015. Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing . Prabakaran, R., n.d. Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion. http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/ environ mental-impacts-blue-jeans/ Sohel, M. H., 2017. Environmental Impacts of Denim or Blue Jeans. Bangladesh: http://textilelearner. blogspot.com/2017/03/environmental-impact-fast-fashion.html TONELLO, 2018. REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE. AND REINVENT!. s.l.:http://blog.tonello.com/2018/10/19/ reduce-reuse-recycle-and-reinvent/. Velasquez, A., 2019. Denim Supply Chain Players Seek New Ways to Elevate Efficiency. WEISSMAN, C. G., 2019. The future of jeans: Inside the Levi’s innovation lab bringing denim into 2019. WRAP, n.d. Guidance on design for longevity – denim.

FIGURES

https://www.1083.fr/projet https://www.denimsandjeans.com/ https://www.uniqlo.com/jeans_innovation/us/ http://www.denimdudes.co/tonello-the-denim-laundry-revolution/ https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-innovations/denim-efficiency-ozone-laser-garmon-tonello-naveen-calik-177087/ https://makeitbritish.co.uk/top-ten/top-15-yorkshire-textile-mills/ http://www.theweaveshed.org/suppliers-services/commission-weavers/

THANKS FOR THE HELP AND SUPPORT TO Francesco Mazzarella - Han Ates & Annie Gurney - Annette Russell - Jeanologia-Team & everyone that shared their perspective with me.

4th of December 2019 asch_design@web.de