Level 2 hair course book by Annette Tattersall

Hairdressing Level 2 course book Candidate name…………………………………………………… Judged “Outstanding” by Ofsted

A LONG - STANDING TRADITION OF EXCELLENCE

Contents Page Introduction and cross unit questions ………………………….. Page 2-6

G20 Health and Safety ……………………………………………Page 7-8

G17 Positive Impression ………………………………………….Page 9

G7 Advise and Consult …………………………………………...Page 10-23

GH8 Shampoo, condition and treat hair and scalp …………….Page 24-31

GH9 Change hair colour ………………………………………….Page 32-45

GH10/11 Style and dress hair ……………………………………Page 46-55

GH12 Cut hair ……………………………………………………...Page 56-64

G4 Reception duties ………………………………………………Page 65-72

G8 Effectiveness at work …………………………………………Page 73-75

Yen Heads Template …………………………………………….. Page 76-79

Men’s Cutting Book ………………………………………………. Page 80-101

Perming Booklet ………………………………………………….. Page 102-121

Note pages …………………………………………………………Page 122-132

Work Placement log ……………………………………………….Page 133-133

Evaluation …………………………………………………………..Page 134-135

Page 4

Introduction To become a successful stylist you need to be good at what you do. This takes practise and commitment. You need to be able to communicate with your peers, clients and boss to enable a good working relationship. This booklet will support you with your hairdressing knowledge and should be taken to each theory class. Within this booklet when you see a there is a link to where English Functional skills apply. (This could be reading, drawing, labelling, communicating and more). When you see a

there is a link to Maths Functional skills. This

could be adding, angles, estimating, ratios, percentages and more). Finally

when you see a

there is a link to Information Technology (I.T)

So, let’s get started. (602) You should know what to get organised before a client arrives, especially if he/she is having a chemical treatment. Preparation is an important part of hairdressing and you need to make sure: 

Your barbicide, this is a chemical disinfectant that keeps your combs sterile and avoids cross infection and infestation.



Clean your work area and keep it tidy with detergent and water, usually a spray bottle that avoids cross infection and infestation.



Fig. 2

1. This will avoid cross infection 2. Looks professional 3. Will avoid any hazards/accidents. Remember sterilisation : You need to clean and sterilise equipment between clients like scissors using an autoclave ( see Fig. 1) Any blades that are blunt should be placed in a sharps box (See Fig. 2), any empty product bottles should be rinsed out and recycled, any leftover products in tinting bowls, or perm/neutraliser should be flushed down the drain with plenty of water following salon policy and local by-laws.

Fig. 1

Page 5 

Have a clean gown and towel ready for the client’s arrival. If the client is having a hair cut you may like to use a cutting collar. More often that not, you will shampoo the hair first to prepare the hair for the next service.



If you are colouring/perming the hair, get yourself an apron and gloves, the apron will protect your uniform/clothing and the gloves will stop you getting dermatitis (an inflammation of the skin). You can also wear a mask to avoid inhaling chemicals, like powder bleach particles and even goggles that will protect your eyes from chemicals.



You have to abide by The Control Of Substance Hazardous to Health (C.O.S.H.H) law when dealing with chemicals in the salon: Although most people use hairspray everyday it is still a dangerous chemical and should be stored away from direct sunlight and do not exceed temperatures of 50 degrees centigrade, use by spraying 20cms away from the hair, avoiding the face and eyes and not spray near a naked flame or any other flammable material, when disposing do not pierce or burn after use and recycle where possible. All these Manufacturers instructions above, can be found on the back of your hairspray can.



Check your electrical equipment to make sure it is not faulty. Do not have any knots in your wires and check the plug is intact, if it is not working, label, report and remove it from the salon.



Make sure all your equipment is ready, like your foils are torn and your record card/shade chart is out. If it is a perm, your rods and end papers are ready. This will save you time and looks more professional when your client arrives



Remember when your client arrives that you must never discuss any personal details of other clients as you will be breaking the law. This law is the Data Protection Act which should be read and adhered to.



The client should be sat back in the chair and not slouching, which is comfortable for them and this will make sure they get a balanced hairstyle and avoid back/neck injuries. How should the stylist be stood? What is good posture?

…………………………………………………………………………………………

Page 6



and keep

Keep safe: Cover any cuts with a

your

clean and tidy. Use a clean

protect your clients clothing. If you have

before work for advice.

and towel to

ring the manager

daily to avoid offending your

clients or colleagues with body odour. This will also reduce cross infection and

Speak clearly with your client and use good body language. Eye contact is important as it shows you are listening. Use open questions like: “What style would you like me to blow dry your hair?” NOT

“Am I blow drying it then”

Use products economically (meaning: not wasteful or extravagant. Intended to save money)

Avoid wasting products – the professional shampoos and conditioners are concentrated so you do not need a lot.

If you use too many products it will overload the hair and make it limp and greasy

Be cost effective.

How much colour do you waste? Every penny counts

Avoid wasting water; switch off the tap whilst shampooing (massage)

Page 7

Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risks to Health and Safety http://www.hse.gov.uk/risk/faq.htm

Hazard is the potential to cause harm; risk on the other hand is the likelihood of harm

Everything we do exposes us to hazards. However, it is HOW we do things that determines the risk

A risk is the chance, high or low, that any hazard will actually cause somebody harm.

For example: Peroxide is a hazardous substance although if you wear the correct Protective Equipment and store, handle, use and dispose following Manufacturers Instructions it will not become a risk. When dealing with chemicals always wear Personal Protective Equipment (P.P.E) When working in the salon take reasonable care to avoid harming yourself/clients or colleagues. It is your responsibility to use safe methods of working in a salon, For example: clean and sterilise equipment, do not touch plugs with wet hands and make sure there are no trailing wires or spillages, this will avoid accidents in the salon. If unsure of any policies or you need help see the manager. Circle the hazards and risks in the picture below

Store on a LOW

shelf

Page 8

Preparation of yourself for a client: Clothes: Uniform, clean and ironed Wear closed toed shoes with a low heel Hair to be clean, healthy, manageable and off your face, preferably with a current fashion colour, Personal hygiene (clean body, teeth, workable length clean nails, no chipped polish, deodorant, make up and no overpowering perfume) PPE (gloves, apron) Minimal jewellery Positive attitude Now you are ready to greet your client.

Preparation of client: Remove outer clients clothing . Always ask if they have anything in their coat pockets that they want with them Protect against damage by hanging away from chemicals Ensure the client is relaxed and comfortable (correct posture) Remove excessive jewellery Gown client with a gown, towel or plastic cape

Salon requirements for preparation: Follow all Legislation Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations

Give an example of how it applies to hairdressing

Supply of Goods and Services Act Trade Description Act C.O.S.H.H R.I.D.D.O.R P.P.E Manual Handling Health, Safety and Welfare Regulations And follow local by laws (set by the council); salon rules and code of conduct.

http://www.hse.gov.uk/legislation/hswa.htm

Page 9

G17 Give a positive impression of yourself and organisation

Too much Jewellery

Page 10

G7 Advise and consult with clients

Tests Test

When to do

Why do

How to do

Results

Consequences Of not carrying out

Page 11

Label the diagram

3 4 5

What is it 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

What is its purpose

Page 12

Contra Indication means: A condition which makes a particular treatment or procedure inadvisable.

What are the symptoms of head lice and how do you get them? ............................................................................................................................ ............................................................................................................................ What advice can you give the client? …………………………………………………………………………... What can they buy and who do they treat? …………………………………………………………………………………………

Scabies Sarcoptes scabiei Scabies is spread by direct contact with infected people, and less often by sharing clothing or bedding. Sometimes whole families are affected. The mites that cause scabies burrow into the skin and deposit their eggs, forming a burrow that looks like a pencil mark. Eggs mature in 21 days. The itchy rash is an allergic response to the mite. The skin is very itchy. Scabies is spread by skin-to-skin contact with another person who has scabies. Prescription medicated creams are commonly used to treat scabies infections.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001833/

Page 13

Ringworm http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002411/ Ringworm is a skin infection due to a fungus Ringworm is common, especially among children. However, it may affect people of all ages. It is caused by a fungus, not a worm like the name suggests. Many bacteria and fungi live on your body. Some of these are useful, while others can cause infections. Ringworm occurs when a type of fungus called tinea grows and multiplies on your skin. Ringworm can spread easily from one person to another. You can catch ringworm if you touch someone who has the infection, or if you come into contact with items contaminated by the fungus, such as combs Impetigo Impetigo is a highly contagious bacterial infection of the surface layers of the skin, which causes sores and blisters Impetigo is not usually a serious condition. However, you should take precautions to avoid spreading it to other people. For example, carefully wash your hands after touching affected areas of skin, and do not share towels or bed linen. Impetigo is spread through contact to the pus that is contained in the blisters of someone who has the infection. If this fluid gets on anything; clothing, a toy, a door knob the next person touching it can get impetigo also. A person with impetigo will first notice a red, cracking area on their skin, usually on the face or hands. Soon the area will begin to itch and small blisters will appear. The blister will get larger. When they pop or crack they will ooze streptococcus or staphylococcus bacteria, and then crusts that are light yellowishbrown will form on top. The blisters continue to crust over even when they get scratched off. This itching and scratching process streptococcus or spreads the infection all over the body. staphylococcus bacteria

Page 14

Carbuncles or Furuncles Boils are very common. They are generally caused by the bacteria Staphylococcus aureus, but they may be caused by other bacteria or fungi found on the skin's surface. Damage to the hair follicle allows these bacteria to enter deeper into the tissues of the follicle and the tissue underneath

Conjunctivitis Conjunctivitis causes redness of the conjunctiva (the white of the eye and inside the eyelids), usually of both eyes. The eyes may be sore, itchy, burning and sometimes extremely painful. Bright light can make the condition seem worse. If the cause is a bacterial infection, the eye may discharge a white/yellow sticky pus. This can crust on the eyelashes and glue the eyelids together, especially after sleep. If an allergen is causing the conjunctivitis, the eyes may be swollen and itchy. Now answer the following questions: Q1. How do you catch head lice? ............................................................................................................................ Q2.What does Scabies look like to the naked eye? ............................................................................................................................ Q3. What type of infection is ringworm? ………………………………………………………………………………………….. Q4. What does impetigo look like? ………………………………………………………………………………………….. Q5. What is infected when you have a carbuncle? ………………………………………………………………………………………….. Q6. What are the symptoms of conjunctivitis? ………………………………………………………………………………………….

Page 15

What are the symptoms?

What is this?

Alopecia Areata is small circular bald patches. The cause is stress related. The hair needs to be left long enough to cover the patch until it grows back, which is usually in about 3 months

Alopecia Totalis Complete loss of scalp hair

Alopecia Universalis total loss of body hair

What can you recommend to a client with Alopecia Areata? …………………………………………………………………….............................................

Fragilitas crinium Definition: brittleness of the hair; a condition in which the hair of the head or face tends to split or break off. Hair looks faded and dusty

Hair under microscope

Cut off

Page 16

Monilethrix (also referred to as "Beaded hair" is a rare disease that results in short, fragile, broken hair that appears beaded.

Sebaceous Cysts Caused by blockage to the sebaceous gland

Trichorrhexis Nodasa

Caused by physical or chemical damage The use of spiked rollers tight rubbers when perming, severe back combing or the use of strong perms and bleaches

Page 17

Hair Growth Cycle 1. ANAGEN (GROWING) STAGE This is the name for the growing period of a hair follicle. The anagen stage for the hair follicles in the scalp typically lasts about 3 to 5 years.

2. CATAGEN STAGE At the end of the growth period, hair follicles prepare themselves for the resting phase. This transition period of a hair follicle from growth to rest is called the catagen stage. This stage of the hair growth cycle usually lasts about 1 to 2 weeks or so.

3. TELOGEN (RESTING or SHEDDING) STAGE This is the resting period of a hair follicle. It is usually 3 to 4 months in length and at the end of this period older hairs that have finished their life will fall out and newer hairs will begin to grow.

The growing (anagen) phase constitutes about 90% of the growth cycle of a hair follicle, at a given time, about 10% of hair follicles are in the intermediate and shedding phases; thus, not growing. These hair follicles, however, are randomly distributed over the scalp, so that no bald spots are seen.

http://www.hshairclinic.co.uk/hair-loss/all-about-hair/hair-cycle/

Page 18

Complete the wordsearch on The Hair Growth Cycle B

ANAGEN ILLNESS MITOSIS TELOGEN

CATAGEN KERATIN PAPILLA TRANSITION

GROWING MEDICATION RESTING

With the letters remaining write them below to reveal a sentence: _____

_______ _________

___

http://www.surviving-hairloss.com/Hair_Growth.html

_____

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Hair Types

Afro Caribbean hair is very very curly and can be more difficult to cut. The follicle is kidney shaped making the hair grow out curly from the head (See picture). Be careful not to put too much tension on as hair will spring up a lot when cut. 1. VELLUS HAIRS Vellus hairs are short hairs of a centimeter or two long. A vellus hair contains little or no pigment, and thus, is colourless. Vellus hairs are fine and soft. 2. TERMINAL HAIRS Terminal hairs are long hairs that grow on the scalp. They are produced by hair follicles with adjacent sebaceous glands. Terminal hairs have large, darkly pigmented hair fibers that have a medulla at the innermost part. 3. INTERMEDIATE HAIRS An intermediate hair shows the characteristics of both vellus hairs and terminal hairs. During the balding process terminal hair follicles and intermediate hair follicles change in such a way that they no longer produce terminal hairs. In these areas, hair follicles grow vellus hairs rather than terminal hairs.

Page 20

Hair Texture Where r is the radius and d is the diameter of the circle, and the Greek letter π is defined as the ratio of the circumference of the circle to its diameter. The numerical value of π is 3.14

Watch u tube clips on Moodle Fine hair: small circumference

What is the diameter of coarse hair in cms?

Medium hair

Coarse hair: large circumference

What is the circumference? C=πxD

If a client has coarse hair, what cut would you recommend?

Hair Density Density refers to the quantity of hair. How many hairs are on one centimetre square swatch on the head. This can affect the hair cut as the client may not have enough hair to achieve the style they require. Sparse

Abundant

Give an example of what hair cut would be suitable for a client with sparse hair and why?

http://www.thetech.org/genetics/ask.php?id=107

What makes hair healthy? 1. ………………………………..

2. …………………………….………

3 …………………………..…..

4. …………………………….……….

Page 21 Answer the following questions that can limit or affect what you do? Q1. A client has had a reaction to a skin test and wants a full head colour, what do you do? ………………………………………………………………………………………………… ……………………………………………………… Q2. This client wants bleached highlights, what do you do? ………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………. ………………………………………………………………….

Q3. What products and equipment is used for a conditioning treatment for chemically damaged hair? ................................................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................................................... ...................................................................................................

Q4. If a client wants two coloured highlights, can you use a highlighting cap? ………………………………………………………………………………………………….

Draw on some hair to enhance the face shape on the top row and draw styles that are unflattering on the bottom row

Page 22

When choosing a style or colour for a client, ask yourself, have they time to upkeep the style and not leave it to overgrow/have roots, also can they afford to upkeep the style.

GROWTH PATTERNS With a widows peak what can you recommend?

With a nape whorl what do you avoid?

With a double crown Can you have a fringe with a Calf what do you NOT Flick? do?

Double Crown What growth pattern is this? What can you recommend?

What growth pattern is this? What can you recommend?

Page 23

This is what a single hair looks like if you cut through it. What are the key features of the cuticle? ………………………………………………… ………………………………………………… …………………………………………………. …………………………………………………. What layer do colours develop when permanent? ………………………………………………….

Match up the picture to the text

http://www.livestrong.com/article/182407-keeping-hair-cuticles-healthy/

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GH8 Shampoo, Condition and treat the hair and scalp Shampoo cleans the hair and prepares it for the next service. Safety Conditioner smoothes the cuticle gives shine and makes the Considerations hair easy to comb, if you use the wrong shampoo the hair could be greasy and lank making it difficult to blow dry. Protect the client with a gown and towel Carry out tests, if there is something you do not recognise on the hair/scalp (Contra Indication) ask you manager as this will reduce cross infection/infestation. You may not be able to carry out the treatment or you might have to use a different product. Always assess the hair first to identify problems. Read the instructions on the bottle to select the correct shampoo for the hair type and get the best results. 10 minutes to shampoo Check the water temperature throughout Remove all products from the hair 15 minutes to shampoo

Cause

Move the client to the basin and make sure they are positioned comfortably. Keep your hand in contact with the water and keep checking the temperature. If too hot it will burn the hair and scalp and cause the client discomfort, if too cold it will also be uncomfortable although cool water closes the cuticle and will make the hair shinier. Shampoo acts as a wetting agent, allowing the hair to become clean with dirt and grease removed http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfactant Grease Grease

Water Breaks surface tension of water (Hydrophilic head loves water)

The grease loving tail Hydrophobic attaches to the grease and pull it from the hair

Page 25

Massage What Massage is this? ……………………………………… When is it used? ………………………………………. ………………………………………. Read and Follow instructions on use for best results and so the products are used correctly

What Massage is this? ………………………………………

When is it used? ………………………………………. ………………………………………. What Massage is this? ……………………………………… When is it used? ………………………………………. ………………………………………. When would you repeat the shampoo? …………………………………………… Once you have finished the shampoo/conditioner towel dry and comb hair from the tip to the root, this will avoid damage to the outer layer of the hair. The cuticle lies from the _______ to ______. NEVER brush wet hair; you should use a brush before shampooing again starting at the tips and working up towards the roots

Towel dry the hair properly so that it is ready for the next service and prevents the client being uncomfortable. http://moodle.nelson.ac.uk/mod/resource/view.php?id=33354

Page 26

Do acids open or close the cuticle? _________ If the hair is long avoid Petrissage as you can get your hands tangled in the hair.

Shampoo

Conditioner

Penetrating conditioners will help restore the cortex. Shampoo the hair and apply in sections, heat will help the conditioner penetrate the cortex, because it will open the cuticle. You could provide a scalp massage before the steamer to relax the client and it will also help stimulate the blood supply and sebaceous glands to produce more sebum. Update the record card or for new clients remember to complete a new one with the clients name and address, what products you used, and the date they had the treatment. This is important in case a client takes legal action.

Conditioner improves handling and combing of the hair

Check the steamer before use to make sure it is working correctly to avoid harm to you or others in the salon

Page 27

Conditioning products There are 3 main types of conditioners.  A Surface conditioner  Penetrating Conditioners  Scalp Treatments

Surface conditioners: They smooth and coat the cuticle scales, making the hair look shiny and more manageable. They do not have the ability to penetrate through the cuticle. If a surface conditioner is described as an anti-oxidant and can be used after chemical processes. An anti-oxidant conditioner: It stops the chemicals working (stops creeping oxidation) It closes and smoothes the cuticle scales, making the hair shiny It returns the hair to its natural pH value (pH 4.55.5).

Application: Shampoo hair, then, apply the correct amount of the conditioner into the palm of your hand (according to the manufacturer's direction) distribute it between your palms and then apply it to the hair evenly. What massage technique is this? …………………….. Leave the conditioner on the hair according to manufacturer's recommendations, and rinse it away using lukewarm water. If the hair is especially damaged or coarse, rinse using cool water, as the cuticle will close easier.

Suitability: For every day use

Wella Brilliance Colour Protection Conditioner

http://www.wella.com/en-UK/professionals-care.aspx

Wella Enrich Moisturising Conditioner

Page 28 Penetrating conditioners: Intensive, Moisturising. These work on the internal cortex of the hair; they temporarily rebuild the bonds in the cortex to add strength and elasticity. They can improve the overall look and feel of dry or damaged hair. Some can also smooth the cuticle scales, depending on whether a moisturising or a protein restructurant is used. If the hair is badly damaged, you may need to recommend a course of penetrating treatments over a period of a month to six weeks. Wella Brilliance Treatment

Application: Section the hair into four, once pre shampooed, apply in sections neatly. Use heat for the conditioner to penetrate into the cortex, rinse it away using lukewarm water. If the hair is especially damaged or coarse, rinse using cool water, as the cuticle will close easier. Hair is composed primarily of proteins (88%). These proteins are of a hard fibrous type known as keratin. Keratin protein is comprised of what we call "polypeptide chains.” The word, polypeptide, comes from the Greek word "poly" meaning many and "peptos" meaning digested or broken down. In essence, if we break down protein, we have individual amino acids. Many (poly) amino acids joined together form a "polypeptide chain". Two amino acids are joined together by a "peptide bond", and the correct number of amino acids placed in their correct order will form a specific protein

Enrich Conditioner 200ml costs £10.15 to retail. If the client buys 3 how much will she pay? Answer £

If they cost £5.50 for the stylist to buy from the wholesalers how much profit is made on this sale? Answer £

Page 29

Scalp treatments: Dry scalps can benefit greatly from moisturising treatments such as hot oil treatments. If the scalp is dry it needs moisturising just like any other skin on the body. Regular moisturising treatments will really benefit a dry scalp and can help to alleviate dandruff and some milder forms of psoriasis.

Greasy hair is due to a build-up of the natural secretion ('grease' or, more correctly, sebum) from glands in the scalp (sebaceous glands). The sebum passes into the hair follicle and spreads upwards and over the hair shaft.

Contra Indications to scalp massage treatments are: Epilepsy Skin disorders and diseases Chemo or radio therapy Recent scar tissue Cuts and abrasions Product allergies

High Frequency Machine The benefits are: Stimulates blood circulation Cleanses and oxygenates skin Increases cell metabolism Helps relax the client

Always read instructions Avoid broken capillaries Do not use if pregnant Avoid wearing metal jewellery Never use near water

Vibro Massager Releases stress and tiredness Improves circulation Relaxing for the client http://moodle.nelson.ac.uk/course/view.php?id=590#scalp

Page 30

May not be able to continue with the treatment. Make affect how you massage the scalp.

Skin or scalp disorder

May not be able to continue with the treatment. Make have to use a different product

Visible signs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cuts /abrasions, reddening on scalp, client feels unwell with a headache

Product allergies

Page 31 GH8 Revision Test Shampoo, condition and treat the hair and scalp

Q1. Why report head lice and impetigo? Q2. What does conditioner do to the hair? Q3. What does shampoo do to the hair? Q4. What happens if you use the wrong shampoo or conditioner? Q5. What conditioning treatment would you recommend for oily or dandruff affected hair? Q6. Name an ingredient in a dry hair shampoo? Q7. If hair is long/abundant why should you not use too much rotary? Q8. Give 2 benefits of a scalp massage? 1………………………………………2……………………………………........... Q9. What equipment can be used for a hair and scalp treatment and how is it used safely? Q10. What massage movement is used to apply conditioning products? Q11. Why and when do you use a wide tooth comb? Q12. When do you brush hair? Q13. What acts as a wetting agent when shampooing? Q14. Do acids open or close the cuticle? Q15. Why remove excess moisture after shampooing and conditioning? Q16. Why follow manufacturer’s instructions? Q17. Why record client’s responses to questions? Q18. Why repeat a shampoo? Q19. How can you tell if hair is chemically damaged? Q20. Why do you get dandruff?

Safety Considerations

Page 32

GH9 Change hair colour Protective equipment for client

Protective equipment for stylist Avoids

Test the hair

What test is this and how is it done?

What other tests are there and how are they carried out?

What test is this and how is it done?

What test is this and how is it done? Make sure all tests are recorded accurately

Page 33 When do you do a skin test? ………………………………………………………………………………………… This must be carried out in line with the manufacturer’s instructions so you can identify any allergic reactions and follow the salon and Health and Safety policies. What test checks to see if the colour has developed? …………………………. Depending on the results, depends whether the service can be carried out or whether you need to change the product from a permanent colour to a semipermanent colour.

If you DO NOT test you could: Damage the hair Damage the scalp/skin Not get the result you thought The client could have an allergic reaction/anaphylactic shock. Look at the hair.

and

hair condition, and see what previous chemicals are on the Make sure the client can upkeep the colour via time and money. Root colours will need an appointment every 4-6 weeks.

Check for contra indications: This could range from head lice to what medication the client is taking, it may affect what products you use will identify any problems that may affect the treatment.

Record all details in case of legal action, you also know what to do next time, if the client liked the colour and it looks professional. What information goes on the record card: ………………………………………………………………………………………………… ………………………………………………………………………………………………… If you are using Powder Bleach: Wear the correct P.P.E Mix in a well-ventilated area to avoid respiratory problems.

Page 34 Watch the hair lift, do not leave the client unattended as bleach can easily snap and damage the hair. Once bleach has developed it will go white, then grey and finally dissolve the hair completely. What do you think has happened to the hair in the picture? ....................................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................................

Apply neatly and do not overlap onto previously bleached hair or it could snap off

Follow the instructions to get the best results and avoid damaging the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hair or scalp.

This mixture is too runny for bleach and has NOT been measured correctly according to the manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s instructions. Mix in a well ventilated area and wear goggles and a mask as well as apron and gloves if needed.

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Temporary Colours Draw the effects on the hair structure

How long will it last?.................................................................... Application: Read and follow instructions for mixing and applying  Pre shampoo hair  Wear P.P.E  Apply using either a wide tooth comb or a vent brush for coloured mousse  Avoid touching the scalp  If the hair is porous you may get an uneven result.  For hairsprays follow directions from can  For hair mascara shampoo and condition, towel dry and blow dry the hair. Apply in smooth strokes to give even streaks to the hair. Very good for parties or younger children wanting a flash of colour. Temporary colours can be used to blend in grey hairs if the clients roots are needed or for a party like, Halloween ,Red nose day or fundraising. The molecules are large and only lodge in the cuticle until the next shampoo, although they will remain in the hair for longer if the hair is porous or very light as reds will hold in blonde hair for longer especially if it is artifically lifted.

If hair mascara is £1.99 each to buy or 5 for £9.50. Which is the best buy and by how much?

Workings out

Page 36

Good for neutralising unwanted tone like yellow

Semi-Permanent Colour Draw the effects on the hair structure

How long will it last?...............................................

Application: Read and follow instructions for mixing and applying  Shampoo and towel dry hair  Make sure you are wearing the correct P.P.E  Apply to whole hair shaft, usually directly from the bottle.  Check development time with manufacturer’s instructions (M.I)   

To remove add water to emulsify, loosen the colour and stop skin staining Rinse until water is clear Condition with an anti-oxidant following M.I

Small and large molecules are attached to the cuticle, which is the outer layer of the hair. Some of the small molecules enter the edge of the cortex

Consider the effects of toning hair using the colour star. If a clients hair is too yellow after lifting, then tone with the opposite (complimentary colour) on the star to neutralise unwanted tone. What would this be? ………………………………………… http://moodle.nelson.ac.uk/mod/resource/view.php?id=33362

pH 6.5-6.8

Page 37

Do you Skin Test?

Quasi Permanent Colour

pH 7.2-7.5 some 6.8-9.0 How long will it last?................................................,…………………………… Why is this different to a semi permanent? …………………………………… Application: Read and follow instructions for mixing and applying Usually applied to dry hair Colour touch mixing ratio is 1 part colour to 2 parts peroxide Section the hair into four quarters Apply using either an applicator bottle or with a bowl and brush Check development time with manufacturer’s instructions To remove add water to emulsify Rinse until water is clear Condition with an anti-oxidant

If you use 30mls of colour how much peroxide is needed? The ratio is 1:2 Answer:

Wella Magma is also a quasi permanent and can be refreshed with Colour Touch relights/sunlights.

Colour Touch Plus is designed for clients with 70%+ grey hair and has its own developer

Relights and Sun lights are used to refresh Magma

Page 38

Permanent Colour https://www.wella.com/en-UK/home-pro.aspx

Draw the effects on the hair structure

pH 7.5 - 9

How long will it last? …………………………………………….. What happens to the molecules? …………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………… Permanent root application: Read and follow instructions for mixing and applying Section the hair into four quarters Apply colour to root area Start usually at the back unless the hair around the hairline is white/grey Avoid skin staining by applying barrier cream or do a neat application Check development time with manufacturer’s instructions To remove add water to emulsify Rinse until water is clear and colour is thoroughly removed Shampoo twice Condition with an anti-oxidant

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Buying Stock for the salon Product Magma

Price £16.00

Quantity How much would 4 tubs of magma be?

Welloxon Developer

£6.99

How much would 7 bottles of Welloxon Developer be?

Magma Sealer

£17.99

How much would 2 bottles of Magma Sealer be?

Wella Koleston Perfect

£6.40

6 x £6.40 =

Q1. If on average you can get 12 applications of colour out of 1 tub of Magma, how much will each application cost?

Workings out

Q2. If the tube of Koleston Perfect was excluding V.A.T how much would it cost with V.A.T added at 20%?

Workings out

Q3. If you could buy 10 tubes of colour for the price of 9 How much would each bottle cost?

Workings out

Page 40

Virgin hair application: Virgin hair means no previous colour the hair is natural. Apply firstly to the mid lengths, then the ends and finally the roots because the heat from the scalp will make the roots take quickly, which could make them look brighter than the rest of the hair. You can speed up a colour by using a Climazone (heat) if the salon is warm colours will take quicker and if the salon is cooler the development will slow down

Foil application: Start at the nape and work up towards the crown. Take sections slightly smaller than the width of the foil to allow you to fold the edges

Weave out hair using a tail comb to the specification of the client

Place the woven hair on the foil and apply the colour/bleach product. Foil in the sides

If your foils seep then â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;SPOT COLOURâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the affected areas by finely weaving out and re colouring to natural base

Avoid folding too many times as the colour may not cover correctly

More streaked effects

More finely woven

Judge the quantity to weave out. Consider texture and density of hair

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To Highlight or low light hair you could use:

These are plastic strips you could also have packets and wraps

Do not overlap if completing roots with bleach or the hair may over process

Bleach/ Lightener

Cream bleach is used for root application and powder/granules for foils/cap/wraps/packets.

pH 10.2

Draw the effects on the hair structure How long will it last? ……………………………………… Bleach will lighten the hair and turns eumelanin into colourless oxy melanin.

Eumelanin Pheo melanin Brown and black colour pigment Yellow and red colour pigment in hair in hair Depending on how much pigment is in the hair depends on how light/dark you want the hair and what peroxide strength is used, the more lift the higher the peroxide. If the hair is a depth of 3/0 you will need to use some form of lightener (bleach) if the client wants caramel streaks.

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Peroxide strengths http://www.moveon.org.uk/ilr_php/hottopics/pe/l1/docs/res/hydrogen%20peroxide%20strengths.pdf

Hydrogen peroxide releases oxygen when applied to the hair. The more oxygen that is released the more lift will be achieved. The oxygen reacts with natural hair pigment, making it lighter. Generally 3% lowers or adds colour 6% same depth add colour/tone 9% 2 shades of lift 12% 3+ shades of lift 1. Put the Heads Above hydrogen peroxide solutions in order of strength, starting with the weakest

______ ______ ______ ______

2. Match the hydrogen peroxide strengths A is the same strength as ………………..

B is the same strength as ……………………………

Dilution of hydrogen peroxide to water If you have 12% and want 6% the dilution ratio is 1:1 If you have 9% and want 6% the dilution ratio is 2:1 What is the ratio if you have 6% and want 3% _______________ If the peroxide is too strong then the hair will over process and could deteriorate the hair condition.

Once a colour is complete condition the hair using an anti oxidant What does conditioner do? 1. ……………………………………… 2. ……………………………………… 3. ……………………………………… Provide aftercare advice Don’t go swimming as the hair will be drier and the colour will fade Use a colour protection shampoo and conditioner. Avoid anti dandruff and medicated shampoos, which will strip permanent colour.

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Colour Star

http://www.hairdressingworld.com/Hairdressing-Design/Hair-Colour/the-colour-wheel-explained.html

Primary colours

Secondary colours

Neutralises Red Blue Purple/violet International colour chart I.C.C identifies depth and tone and helps client /you choose a colour. This is a chart that is used in many countries in a very similar way. Generally the depths are the same.

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Colours Depth and Tone Using the table above answer the following questions:

Q1. What is 66/0? ………………………………………………………………... Q2. What is 6/00? ………………………………………………………………… Q3. What is 7/17? ………………………………………………………………… Q4. What is 7/4? …………………………………………………………………. Q5. What is 8/3? …………………………………………………………………. Q6. What is 55/46? ………………………………………………………………. Q7. What is 10/8? ………………………………………………………………… Q8. What is 5/75? ………………………………………………………………… Q9. What number is dark brunette golden blonde? …………………………… Q10. What number is very light brunette blonde? …………………………….. Q11. What number is dark natural brunette blonde? …………………………. Q12. What peroxide ratio are special blondes? ……………………………….

Q13. What does a

mean and what does a

mean?

Page 45

GH9 Revision questions Q1. What size are temporary colour molecules? Q2. Name the 3 primary colours? Q3. Describe how to put a foil in the hair? Q4. Name 3 things conditioner does? Q5. What does emulsify mean? Q6. What neutralises red in the hair? Q7. What would you do if you had product seepage when the colour has been rinsed? Q8. When and how do you complete a strand test? Q9. When should a colour test be carried out? Q10. 2 reasons why you wear P.P.E when colouring? Q13.Why is it dangerous to inhale lightening powders? Q14. Give an example of what may happen if the client had a bad reaction to an incompatibility test? Q15. State three potential consequences of not carrying out tests? Q16. Why record test results? Q17. What does ICC stand for and what is it used for? Q18. 2 ways in which natural pigment of the clients hair affect a colouring service? Q19. Describe how permanent colour affects the hair structure? Q20. Does 9% release more oxygen or less oxygen than 6%? Q21. Why does hair Over-processing with colour or lightener? Q22. Why does Skin staining? Q23. When is a lightener use? Q24. When is a toner used?

Page 46

GH10 Style and Finish Humidity: ability to absorb moisture. Hair is hygroscopic so can absorb moisture from the air; unfortunately the hairstyle is prone to drop when this happens.

Blow dried

Hair that has got wet

Keep hair damp when blow drying because: Hair will be smoother and shinier Leave the brush to cool so the hydrogen bonds can harden, the hair will last longer

Hair stretches more when wet so this helps the hair take on the shape of the brush or roller.

Too much heat will affect the hair and scalp because:

Hair will discolour Hair will become more damaged Increased porosity

Loss of elasticity stretched and snaps Cuticle will be damaged Scalp may burn

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When using straighteners or tongs, check the temperature and make sure it is safe to use. Equipment should always be in good working order or you could get an electric shock, so could your client. Avoid touching the skin, as this will burn. Use a heat protective spray which will avoid damage to the cuticle. This puts a protective film on the hair to prevent heat damage. Too much use will result in loss of elasticity and hair damage. If you burn the hair it will damage the cuticle and discolour the hair. For G.H.Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work from the root to the tip taking small meshes of hair. Do the same with spiral wands to create curls. Check they are in good working order to avoid any accidents to you or the client and clean after use to remove products/hair, this will help the equipment work better and avoids cross infection/infestation and looks professional. To clean: Turn off and unplug your thermal styling tool. (Merely switching off doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean that it is free of electric current). Set it down on a heat-resistant mat wait until lukewarm. Wipe off your lukewarm curling iron or hair straighteners with a damp paper towel or you can clean it using substance like the juice of lemon. Read and follow instructions on using and maintaining equipment.

Effects on hair structure Can also be known as Alpha Beta Transformation or a Cohesive Set

Hair shampooed

Hair stretched into new shape of roller or brush and forced to dry

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Equipment

How to use Leave the brush in the hair to cool before removing it to allow the hydrogen bonds (above) to set and harden into position, this will prolong the style for the client.

If hair is burnt it discolours and loses its elasticity.

Keep the airflow directed down the cuticle to keep it smooth and dry the hair in the direction the client wishes.

CHECKLIST for hairdryer safety: 1. Check to make sure it is working properly 2. Check the temperature and avoid burning skin. 3. If faulty, label, report and remove. 4. A hairdryer must be kept moving to avoid burning the scalp/skin or damaging the hair.

Sectioning clips

Try to avoid blow drying other areas that are already dry. Keep the hair dampened when styling so that the hair will be smooth and not frizzy. Wet hair stretches more so it can form to the shape of the brush or roller. Section the hair using clips to work in a methodical/professional way that will make sure all the hair is dried properly.

Page 49 This is a diffuser and is used to produce curl in the hair.

The smaller the brush the more curl and movement can be achieved. Larger brushes can smooth and straighten hair. Applying tension will smooth the hair and make the style last longer and taking neat sections (meshes) will ensure all the hair is dried thoroughly. Follow the table below and purchase 6 extra-large, 3 large, 4 medium, and 2 small round brushes for your salon. Size

XL Large Medium Small Workings out:

Answer:

Quantity 1-3 Brushes £5.75 £5.50 £5.00 £4.75

Quantity 4-6 Brushes £4.50 £4.25 £4.00 £3.50

Take small meshes of hair starting at the nape and working towards the crown. Keep the dryer on a low speed and do not brush/comb when dry. Using mousse/product will enhance curl more. Take small meshes of hair and dry around the brush, make sure the ends are smooth before turning to the roots or the brush will get stuck in the hair. You can create volume and curls or smooth and sleek hair. If you hold the brush angle by the roots the rest of the hair will follow, thus instant root lift To achieve no root lift, angle the brush lower and away from the root area. The angle determines the lift and volume of the finished style. Leave the brush in to cool or the curl will drop quicker.

If you do not section the hair underneath my still be wet

Page 50 A paddle brush is used to blow dry hair smooth and sleek.

Mousse can protect the hair from the hairdryer, and increase curl and volume to hair, or can support the hair to be smooth and sleek. For Extra Volume Wella styling Mousse it costs: £11.85 for 300ml £13.85 for 500ml Which is the best buy?

Take neat sections and small meshes of hair. This brush is ideal for smoothing long hair; you could also smooth long hair using a large round brush. Apply a small amount to the palm of the hand and distribute throughout the hair evenly. Some product companies can inter mix products to get more volume too. For example you have used: Wella Extra volume mousse and Wella velvet amplifier adds fullness to fine/limp hair Extra Volume Wella styling Mousse£11.85 Velvet Amplifier £8.65 If a client decides to buy the products you have used how much will it cost?

Answer: Answer: Wella Thermal image heat protection spray helps the style to last longer whilst protecting the hair from heat

Hair spray – helps hold the style in place for longer. Recommend to the client to use at home to maintain the style.

Apply evenly throughout the hair. This puts a plastic protective layer on the hair to prevent heat damage and avoid damage to the cuticle. Always follow manufacturers instructions to get the best results from the products and so that you know how to use them properly. Use on dry hair. Spray 25cm away from the hair and avoid the eyes and face. Store in a cool, dry place and do not exceed temperatures of 50 degrees centigrade. Do not pierce or burn after use. What do you advise if the client gets hairspray in their eyes? …………………………………………………….

Page 51 Heated Rollers Check the temperature and avoid touching the skin. Use protective products.

Do not take sections wider than the roller; wind on or off base depending on required result. Use only on DRY hair. You can use end papers to protect the ends of the hair. Use the clips provided to secure in place. Leave in the hair until cool.

Hood dryer. Check that it is in good working order and is safe to use. Check the temperature, throughout whilst the clients hair is drying, so that it is not too hot for them.

Used with rollers to dry a set. If the hair is too short for a roller a pin curl clip can be used. Why is this incorrect? INCORRECT WAY ………………………… ………………………… …………………………

Use protective products. What products do you use on your hair and why?

What do you use in the salon?

Face shapes

Which suits the client best and why? …………………………………………… …………………………………………… …………………………………………..

To create this:

Page 52

What brush would you use and why?

……………………………………………………….. ………………………………………………………... ………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………

To create this: What equipment would you use and why?

To set and dress hair the equipment you can use is:

And pins

On the base gives ……………….. at the root

Off the base gives ……………….. at the roots

Page 53 Directional setting: This is where you set the hair in a certain direction to suit the clients wishes

Good brush for dressing out a set

Use on wet hair

Setting lotion

Brush out a set to ………… ………… created by the rollers and to loosen the setting lotion, as this can go quite hard as the hair dries. Brushing hair will help blend the roller sections together.

Brickwork setting This will avoid lines and partings from the rollers. Put the rollers in making sure each roller sits between the previous 2 rollers like a brick work wall

Pin curling Flat Flat pin curls create soft flat movement. Put in when wet

Pin curling Volume (barrel) Barrel pin curls create lift, volume and movement. Put in when wet

Page 54

BACKCOMBING/BRUSHING To dress hair use backcombing and or back brushing. This will create more volume/height and gives the grips and pins something to secure against. This will make the style stay in longer for the client. Finish with hairspray. To remove use a soft bristle brush and start at the tips/points of the hair and work towards the roots.

Client aftercare advice Explain how to style at home What brushes are best: What do you use?

What products are best:

http://www.wella.com/en-UK/professionals-styling-pro.aspx What equipment is best:

If a client enjoys a sporty lifestyle recommend an easier style, possibly a soft perm to scrunch dry or a short style to finger dry.

Page 55

Match up the styles to the names

Chignon (bun)

Finger wave

Vertical roll or French pleat Bouffant

Practise these styles in the salon

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GH12 Cut hair using basic techniques Protect the client with a gown, towel and cutting collar to keep them comfortable and protect their clothing from hair. Keep clean tools and equipment, only use scissors to cut hair, carry safely (not in your pocket) and oil razors/ clippers to avoid them becoming blunt. Follow instructions on use By keeping a clean and tidy salon you will avoid cross…………… and cross…………………… so the salons image is maintained and clients will return. Before you shampoo…….. provide a good consultation  Look at the style  Suggest something new  Assess the texture and density of the hair  Identify growth patterns (see G7)  Look at the clients face shape, some styles will not suit them (see G7) After shampooing……….  See how elastic the hair is (you will know how much tension to apply)  See how curly the hair is  See how the hair natural falls What is density?

What is texture?

How does it affect a haircut?

What is hair type?

What is elasticity?

How does it affect a haircut?

Tick which of the follow would you use if the hair was abundant? Club cutting

On average how fast does hair grow in a month in centimetres? ………………

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Recommendations on cut:

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A One Length cut (Bob) Step 1: Section the hair vertically down the centre from the crown to the nape.

Step 2: Section the hair horizontally. Make sure the clients legs are uncross, their shoulders level and their head forward to achieve an accurate hair cut with NO graduation. Cut the first line to the required length.

Step 3: Work up the back of the head, taking small neat sections, keeping the hair wet and checking for balance How do you check for balance? ……………………………………………………………….

Step 4: Cut freehand over the ear section. This means NOT holding the hair with tension. Keep taking sections down until you meet the parting. Why do you Not hold the hair over the ears? …………………………………………………………….

Step 5: Not all clients have a fringe, this section would be for a full fringe. Cut freehand. Always keep checking throughout the hair cut to make sure the client is happy with the progress

Perimeter line, outside edge

Step 6: Use your mirror and check the perimeter is even on both sides. Make sure the client is sat upright when you do this. There should be 0 degree of graduation. This means no ‘fringe’/longer pieces’ at the nape when the head is forward.

Club Cut Page 59

Long Graduation Haircut Step 1: Section the hair from the crown to the nape in the centre of the back of the head.

Step 2: This section is elevated and cut. You can either cut a line from shorter to longer towards the crown or cut straight across at the top lifting the hair to a 180 degree angle, generally layering angles are from 135 degrees

Hair cut straight across, hold in your fingers removes the length and retains the bulk

Step 3: Work through the top section cutting straight across (club cutting) All the hair is brought to the top. Keep following a guideline so the cut is accurate and the shape required is achieved. This helps you work more methodically

Finished result

Cross check by using a

Draw where 135 degrees is on the protractor

how else do you check any haircut?

………………………………………………………………………………………………

Page 60 This is FREEHAND. When and how is it used? Answer

SCISSOR OVER COMB Scissor over comb is used to blend hair from short to long How is this achieved? Which hand is the comb held in?

Q1. If a client has an appointment at twenty past twelve in the afternoon how early is she if she arrives at 11.50am? Answer : ........................................................................ Q2. Draw the time the client arrived on the clock

Q3. She makes another appointment for 2 hours and 15 minutes later than her appointment time today? What time did she make the next booking for?

Page 61

Uniformed Layer Cut http://hairdressing.ac.uk/node/805

Draw the angle on the protractor of a uniformed layer

This is where the hair is held 90 degrees parallel to the scalp. The head is curved so you have to follow the curve of the head as in the diagram. The balance is even as the hair is the same at both sides

Keep to the curve of the head when club cutting a uniformed layer. Draw the angle on the head

Page 62

Short Graduation cut

45 degree angle

Weight at eye level

Balance is even (both sides match)

Top layers longer

Work methodically and follow at guideline, this will ensure an accurate haircut

Do not forget after every hair cut you should be rebooking your client in again for 4-6 weeks time and be recommending how to style then hair in between salon visits. Promote retail products as this may support your wage, via a bonus.

Page 63

Short Graduation step by step

Step 1: Start at the nape and angle the hair at 45 degrees .

Step 2: Continue taking small orange segments from the nape to the occipital bone

Step 3: Work through to the side panels still following the guideline from the back

Why keep the hair damp whilst cutting? …………………… …………………… …………………… …………………… …………………… …….......................

How do you cross check? …………………… …………………… …………………… …………………… …………………… …….......................

Step 4: Angle the top panels over at the same angle to keep the layers on top longer than the layers at the bottom (around the ears and in the nape area)

Give advice on styling and finishing so that the client can maintain their style between salon visits. When should the client return to the salon Aftercare advice 1……………………………………………………..

Aftercare advice 2: …………………………………………………..

Page 64 Cutting Revision GH12 Q1. Why protect the clients clothing? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q2. How do you maintain cutting tools ie: clippers and scissors? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q3. How long do you have to complete a haircut at level 2? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q4. Name 2 hair growth patterns and how you may have to adapt the hair cut to suit? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q5. On average, how quickly in cms does hair grow in a month? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q6. Describe density and how does it affect the cutting technique? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q7. If the hair is elastic should tension be used or not? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q8. What can you see when hair is wet as opposed to dry? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q9. Why keep checking with the client throughout the haircut? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q10. How do you club cut hair? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q11. How do you cut freehand? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q12. When do you use scissor over comb? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q13. Why follow a guideline? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q14. Complete the table below: Look

Weight Distribution

Balance

Degrees of Graduation

Uniformed Short Graduation One length

Q15. How do you cross check a cut? ………………………………………………………………………………………… Q16. Explain the importance of regular haircuts? ………………………………………………………………………………………… http://hairdressing.ac.uk/node/2

Page 65

G4 Reception and Communication (G7)

The rules of a good communicator/receptionist:

            

Smile Be polite Use good body language Use good eye contact Do not speak too technically about the service Do not use slang words ‘ do ya wanna brew’ is not professional Give the client opportunity to ask questions Use open questions like why, what, when not closed questions that have a yes or no answer Pronounce words clearly when talking to the client. Take messages clearly and accurate and pass them on immediately, it could be urgent and affect the running of the salon. Offer refreshments and a magazine to waiting clients. Ask for assistance if needed when the reception is busy Any problems see the manager

Follow the Acts: Research the key features for each in the box below: The Data Protection Act

The Sales of Goods and Service Act

The Trades Description Act

Page 66

Circle and write what to look for if you think it is a forgery.

…………………………………………................................................................................................ .........................................................................................................................................................

Joanne has a loose perm which costs £55.00. She also buys a curl enhancing mousse £7.95 and a Balance conditioner £ 10.95. She pays with three twenty pound notes and two ten pound notes. What change will she receive?

Answer …………………….

Complete the cheque with the details below Date of payment: Thirteenth April Two Thousand and Twelve Pay: Cut above hair studio

Amount: £14.99

Page 67

Clear Hologram

Check name matches gender

What do you use to calculate a bill? What else? …………………………………………….......................................................................... .......................................................................................................................................

Take payments correctly or you can be embarrassed at the till in front of the client and other stylists, also the till will not balance at the end of the day and you will lose profit that could have been made.

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Work

Iram’s has had a blow dry which cost £12.95; she hands over 2 ten pound notes. What change will she receive?

out the change ANSWER:

Carl has had a full head of foils and a trim costing £49.95. He has bought some gel spray to use at home costing £8.90.

ANSWER:

He pays with two twenty pound notes and two ten pound notes. What change will he receive?

Shelley has had a cut and blow dry which cost £32.95; she hands over 2 twenty pound notes. What change will she receive?

ANSWER:

Page 69

Add on any retail sales to the bill and seek assistance if needed

The till Always keep the drawer locked Never keep the key in the till Keep payments slips confidential Never leave reception unattended.

Some salons take electronic appointments.

Stationery on reception Leaflets and promotional material Appointment cards

If appointments are made incorrectly the salon may not run smoothly and clients will be unhappy if they are kept waiting Appointment book

Always display products on reception usually ‘dummy products’ (empty just for show). If you sell a product make sure it is not leaking or cracked, that the packaging isn’t loose and it is not passed its sell by date, or the client can ask for a replacement under The Sale of Goods and Service Act.

Confidentiality Research what it means to you and what Act are you breaking? ………………………………………………………………………………………………… ………………………………………………………………………………………………… ………………………………………………………………………………………………… ......................................................................................................................................

You could lose clients

Clients could take legal action

Page 70

Listen to the client and communicate in an appropriate manner. Complete the table with ideas on communicating Communication with clients Smile

Communication with colleagues Understand your role in the salon Give accurate information

Moving a discussion forward

Ask further questions to find out more information and develop points that you are unsure of.

Do not talk too technically with your clients as they will not understand. They may want to book in for foiled highlights but do not need to know that the colour penetrates into the cortex and chemically changes the colour pigment eumelanin and pheo melanin. They just want to know will it turn out the colour they want.

Recap Q1. What Act is responsible for describing the features and benefits of products and services honestly? …………………………………………………………………………… Q2. What would you look for when taking a debit/credit card? ....................................................................................................................................... ....................................................................................................................................... Q3. Give an example of an offer you could use in the salon? …………………………..

Page 71

Draw the times on the clocks

Sally arrives to work at the salon at 8.50am

Sally has a client booked in for foils at 10.15am

Sally starts her lunch break slightly later at twenty five to one

Sally has her first client in at 9.15am

Sally has managed to fit in someone at 10.40am for a trim

Sally finishes for the day at twenty past five

Page 72

Did You............ Q1.

Did you give a full consultation

Q2.

Did you brush your hair before shampooing?

Q3.

Did you offer any styling products like mousse?

Q4.

Did you offer any finishing products?

Q5.

Did you ask where their parting was before styling?

Q6.

Did you recommend any other services?

Q7.

Did you sell any retail?

Q8.

Did you check the client was pleased with the final result?

Q9.

Did you help the client on with their coat?

Q10.

Did you rebook the client?

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to always

Page 73

G8 Develop and Maintain your Effectiveness at Work

Unprofessional behaviour in the salon

To find out how to behave professionally and what your job responsibilities are will be in the employee handbook/ from your manager or employer or you could ask the human resource manager if you work for a large company. Keep with your job role in the salon or you could cause an accident or have insurance implications. You will have a meeting called an appraisal usually twice a year to identify your strengths and weakness. This is usually with your trainer or employer/line manager. Feedback on your development can be from clients too.

You do this to:

If you want to appeal against the employer then you may need to see some else



Set targets for development



Enable you to grow within the company (possible promotion)



To agree targets



Be aware of industry changes ( opportunity to update your skills on training courses)

If you fail to meet work targets:  Possible disciplinary  Possible demotion  Bad appraisal  Loss of bonuses

The salon may lose clients which means they will lose profits too and morale between colleagues will be poor.

Page 74

How do you keep aware of industry trends?

Continuous Professional Development (C.P.D) Keep your skills updated to give you job satisfaction and help you develop to your full potential. You will be able to train and support others and know what the current products and fashions are. Talk to your employer or line manager on your appraisal about this To find out about courses see the National Occupational standards which are: They will provide you with a progressive route and structured pathway

Find these on the internet or ask your employer

Resolve disagreements Flexibility

Trust

Be respectful

Communication

Openness Be respectful

Enthusiasm

With staff and clients

Keep calm

React positively to feedback by asking questions

and explain your viewpoint/issues listen and

Be respectful Listen

Do not be aggressive

act on the advice given Always stand back from a situation and assess the best way to deal with it A harmonious relationship will help motivate you and looks professional when there is a good team spirit. This is turn will keep the clients happy.

Page 75

Managing Time Effectively

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Communication A Consultation is like a contract with your client. You both need to have the same picture of the final result by the end of the consultation. It is always beneficial if your client brings a picture; alternatively use a style book to help decide the look and listen to your client. Ask them questions and avoid using slang words to express yourself. You not only communicate with your client but also with your colleagues. Report any issues to your salon manager, be friendly and helpful to colleagues and always be polite, speak clearly and behave in a professional manner. Unscramble each of the clue words. Copy the letters in the numbered cells to other cells with the same number.

How else can we communicate? ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… How would you communicate differently if the client was blind? ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

Page 82

Preparation and Tools and Equipment

http://www.health.nsw.gov.au/factsheets/general/hair_barb.html

Barbers must wash their hands before and after attending a client. Neck strips are used to prevent small hair clippings from going down the clients neck and making the client feel more comfortable whilst having their hair cut Neck strips Stretch around neck Secure at the back Gown up

If you do not have neck strips in your salon you can use tissue Use a clean gown to protect the clients clothing and avoid the client being uncomfortable throughout the service, you can use a towel too. Moist Heat –

This can be an autoclave method of sterilising. It is a pressurized container ideally used for scissors or razors.

Chemicals –

Clipper spray cleans the comb, clippers and clipper attachment. Can also be bought in wipes or in a liquid. Examples are Barbicide and Clippercide.

Ultra Violet Rays

UVR cabinets are used for all types of hairdressing equipment. Hair shapers, scissors, combs and sectioning clips to name a few.

Vaporising

A Vaporising cabinet works by putting a few drops of the solution onto the base of the cabinet and warming it up to create a vapour that sterilises all types of equipment.

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Blades that are blunt should be placed in a sharps box and not put directly in a bin. Ask your salon manager where your sharps box is. They are usually yellow containers. To achieve a good hair cut it is important that hair clippers are cared for properly. Always clean clippers after use to prevent oil, dirt, and hair from building up and clogging or damaging the blades. For cordless clippers make sure they are fully charged before use. When cutting with the clippers the hair should never be wet. Wet hair can clog the blades and cause them to rust. Clippers have attachments (Guards) that vary in sizes. The higher the number the longer the hair. Number 5 and 6 guards are used for tapering the hair from short to long. http://hairdressing.ac.uk/node/60 0 (no attachment) ‐ 1/100 inch 1 ‐ 1/8 inch 2 ‐ 1/4 inch 3 ‐ 3/8 inch 4 ‐ 1/2 inch 5 and 6 – used her tapering 7 ‐ 7/8 inch 8 ‐ 1 inch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7DochNTCy8&feature=related

Blade sizes are between 1‐3.3mm. The blade can be adjusted with a lever on the side for a longer/shorter effect effect. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer‐ listing/B0017QLA7I/ref=asc_df_B0017QLA7I2090888?ie=UTF8&condition=new&tag=shopzil_mp421‐ 21&creative=22278&creativeASIN=B0017QLA7I&linkCode=asm

Anti‐rust clippercide spray cleans, lubricates, and cools clipper blades. Regular use of Clippercide will help give clipper blades longer cutting life and will keep them sharper. When oiling clippers always make sure they are free of dust and dirt then apply some oil, Let the blade run for one minute, in order to ensure the uniform distribution of oil. Oiling the blade is important to maintain the working condition of the blade as well as to reduce the chances of damage to it. Read instructions before use

Scissors should be held correctly: Circle which is correct?

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You should palm when not in use and only used for their intended purpose of cutting hair and not paper or the top of a perm bottle. Take care when handling cutting tools to avoid harming yourself or your client. You should not leave the scissors with the blades open or on a workstation in front of your client as this may cause an accident. Ensure the blades are sharp so that they can achieve the correct result and are fit for purpose. Clean and sterilise in between clients to reduce cross infection and infestation, this also makes the salon appear professional and improves the reputation. Follow instructions for maintenance of scissors. Name the parts in the boxes on the diagram Shanks Heel Handles Points Blades Edges Pivot Combs can be made from vulcanite or hard rubber and are designed to be slightly flexible to aid cutting. Ensure the comb is sterilised between clients and if any teeth are missing in the comb discard, as this can cause cross infection and it looks unprofessional

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No1 comb designed for cutting hair that is very short as the comb can get close to the scalp No 4 comb is a traditional cutting comb used for most cutting services No 5 comb has wider teeth and is designed for detangling hair prior to cutting. http://www.myhairandbeauty.co.uk/home.aspx Neck brushes come in all different shapes/ colours and sizes; they are designed to remove loose hair clippings from the skin after cutting. Cutting Collars have small weights in the front to hold the collar close to the neck at the back, preventing hairs going down the client’s neck.

A razor is often used in barbering and must be handled safely. Hold the razor with your thumb on the underside and your little finger on the ‘tang’. The remaining fingers sit along the ‘shank’. Always keep the blade closed when not in use, and closed when passing to another barber.

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BARBICIDE GUARDS OIL RAZOR TANGS

CLIPPERCIDE NECK BRUSH PALMING SHANKS VULCANITE

GOWN NECK STRIPS PIVOT SHARPS BOX

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Factors to consider on consultation

Personality ‐ Is your client confident and able to carry off an emerging cut Dress sense ‐ Is your client fashionable or conservative Age – Is your client a mature professional male that requires a more groomed style. Face shape – Chose 2 face shapes and explain what hair cut would look the best. …………………………………………………………………. …………………………………………………………………. …………………………………………………………………. …………………………………………………………………. …………………………………………………………………. http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/tip3906.htm

An oblong face shape would be better suited with a fringe to soften the final look, an off centre parting will shorten the face and avoid height at the crown. Avoid Long hair with a centre parting; this will also lengthen the face. Avoid any style that is angular at your hairline or that exposes it. A square face shape will feature a strong angular jaw line almost always accompanied by a square hairline and a broad forehead. This face shape gives men a rugged appearance and a classic man’s man look. Round face shapes are where the length of the face is almost equal to the width. To create a more balanced or oval illusion you need styles that have height on the top and crown and are tapered at the back and sides. The diamond/pear face shape has a forehead and jaw line that are narrow and the cheekbones are wider. Your goal is to have the face appear broader and create balance and to camouflage the thinner parts of your face. Facial hair can also balance this face shape. Fuller hair at the crown and temples will help disguise the thinner parts of your face.

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http://menshair.about.com/od/facialhair/ig/Facial‐Hair‐Styles/

Facial Hair Consider the front hairline and temporal area as this can change the final look. Afro Caribbean males usually have their front hairline shaped to remove unwanted hairs Square face The best option to compliment a square face is a full beard that is clipped short Oblong face Rectangular or oblong faces tend to be quite slender and angular. A beard is one facial hair style that can balance the features out by visually shortening the length of the face while creating the illusion that the face is more oval.

Round face Need facial hair to make the face appear oval. Avoid large sideburns as this will make the face look fuller. Opt for a small goatee beard, or a circular beard around the nose and mouth Triangular face This face shape will suit a fuller beard to make the jaw line appear fuller and masculine. Balbo A balbo is a moustache and a goatee that are not connected.

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Moustaches: This is facial hair above the upper lip. Mexican – Big and bushy, beginning from the middle of the upper lip and pulled to the side. The hairs are allowed to start growing from up to a maximum of 1.5 cm beyond the end of the upper lip

English moustache – this is wider above the lip and gradually goes narrow at the sides. Modern moustaches:

Sideburns

Sideburns can enhance the final look, always ask the client how they want their sideburns cut and make sure you use your mirror to measure the length, so that both sides are equal.

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Height, weight and build – ‘Pea on a drum’ Quality and quantity of hair ‐ Has the client any signs of male pattern baldness that make affect the finished look. If the hair is quite elastic do not use too much tension as this may result in the hair being too short. Ask them questions on their daily hair routine to establish ‐Previous style, choice of style and Lifestyle – You may have to consider their job and choose a conservative style, or they may not have hair long enough from their previous hair cut to achieve the result the client wants, or they may not have time to style correctly. Find out on consultation by questioning the client. Hairlines and growth patterns – Draw on the template 3 growth patterns and explain what you would do?

……………………………………………… ……………………………………………… Nape whorls: they are either left longer so that the weight of the hair will hold the nape whorl down or cut and tapered very short into the neckline. Widows peaks: is where the hair is slightly thinning at the temples and can is the start of male pattern baldness, leave the top section longer to cover the area with hair. Double crowns: hair may stick up on top if cut too short, try and incorporate this into the style required. Spike the hair with products. Calf Lick: work with this by creating a style where the front hairline is spiked up and use this to your advantage.

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Cutting Techniques Thinning Scissors This technique will remove the volume but not the length. This may be used for abundant hair. Thinning scissors are used on dry hair and are ideal for blending short to long hair. Point thinning can be achieved on wet or dry hair. Using the points of the scissors holding those almost parallel with the hair take tiny snips. This will soften any hard lines that have been created and give a spike a textured look Club Cutting Club cutting or blunt cutting is a method of cutting sections of hair bluntly (straight across). You need to take small meshes of hair and work methodically throughout the cut. If your sections are too large the cut will be uneven. Club cutting can be done on either wet or dry hair. If cutting wet apply the correct degree of tension to achieve an accurate even cut that is not too short when finished. This type of technique is frequently used in hairdressing and will remove length without removing the bulk. Scissor over Comb Following the contours of the head. There needs to be a flow between the comb, moving slowly up the head and the scissors removing any excess hair that overhangs on the comb. The scissors should be held parallel with the comb at all times. Is used if the hair is too short to hold in your fingers and give it a shorter look Tapering : Blending the hair into the neckline without a line. Freehand This is done around the ear area, avoid cutting the client by resting one blade against the skin, or use a razor to achieve a precision line.

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Male pattern baldnesshttp://www.keratin.com/ac/baldnesspatterns/baldnessclassification/001hamiltonbaldnessc lassification.shtml

(Androgenic alopecia) This is a form of hair loss in men. The cause is hereditary and is linked to the hormone androgen. The hair loss occurs slowly over years and can start as early as twenty. This process is called the Hamilton pattern Hair changes from thick pigmented terminal hair to short and wispy vellus hair over a period of time. Baldness occurs first around the temple area. This changes the shape of the hairline. What style could you recommend? ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. The crown begins to thin. Eventually the two join together giving male pattern baldness.

Stage4

Stage1

Stage3

Stage2

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In growing hairs Why Ingrown Hair Happens Close cutting of hair, leaves its ends sharp. If the hairs curl as they grow, that sharp end can re‐enter the skin instead of growing outward. The in growing hair irritates the skin and causes the bump that you see. Skin irritation can be caused by close shaving or tight clothing. Do not pull the skin too tight when shaving. Hair stubs cut too closely will get trapped inside the hair follicle and dig inward or sideways. Avoid too much pressure on the blades Remedies: Use products containing witch hazel to reduce redness and swelling.Carefully lift the ingrown end out with tweezers Keloids Keloids are the excess growth of scar tissue at the site of a healed skin injury. This can be caused by close cutting near skin, especially on darker skin (Afro Caribbean/African). A lot of men can have scars on their head and if creating patterns in the hair work with the scar to disguise it. http://www.nhs.uk/Livewell/skin/Pages/Keloidscarring.aspx Density Density refers to the quantity of hair. How many hairs are on one centimetre square swatch on the head. This can affect the hair cut as the client may not have enough hair to achieve the style they require. Give an example of what hair cut would be suitable for a client with sparse hair and why? ............................................................................... Sparse

.............................................................................. Abundant

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Test your Knowledge Across

Down

2. What nationality removes unwanted hairs front hairline (4, 9)

1. A hair growth pattern popular on males (6,4)

3. Cut hair without tension

4. A type of moustache

6. Excess growth of scar tissue found mostly on darker skin

5. Another name for club cutting

8. The name given for male pattern baldness

7. Most masculine face shape

9. Check sideburns are level with this

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Hair Texture Fine textured hair tends to be weightless and flyaway. The diameter is very small. Fine hair lack volume and needs products to make the hair appear fuller. Scandinavian hair is usually fine

Medium textured hair is neither fine nor coarse, generally of European origin. It is strong and is elastic enabling any hair cut to be carried out Coarse hair is large in its circumference and is generally more frizzy and dry. Coarse hair can be texturised to reduce some of the fullness as it often grows out from the head. Indian hair is very coarse

Hair Types

Asian hair very straight Caucasian hair wavy Afro Caribbean curly Cutting Caucasian hair can be very different to cutting Afro Caribbean or Asian hair? What factors will you have to consider? ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

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The hairline Match up. The first one is completed for you

Square neckline

Uneven neckline

Too short

Rounded neckline

Tapered neckline

The blocked neckline is formed by shaving a hard line into the natural hairline at the nape. This could be rounded or square. Try to follow the natural hairline as closely as possible. A blocked neckline can make a wide neck appear wider and add the appearance of width to a slim neck. The disadvantage of a blocked neckline is that it will appear untidy as the hair grows out. A tapered/faded/graduated neckline blends against the skin and will look good as it grows out.

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Contra indications A suspected infection can be recognised by: • open, weeping skin • red, inflamed skin or scalp • presence of a rash.

A suspected infestation can be recognised by: • itchy skin or scalp • redness • parasite or eggs visible • presence of a rash. Give examples of an infestation:

Give examples of an infection: Name the skin conditions below Name: Carry out service Yes or No

Type of infection:

Name: Carry out service Yes or No

Type of infection:

Name: Carry out service Yes or No

Type of infection:

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Guidelines

Internal guideline

Before

After

Exterior guideline

Uniformed hair cut Step 1: Determine the overall length as your first guideline

Step 2: Take a vertical section in the nape area and cut a square line parallel to the head shape at a 90degree angle to the head

Step 3: Work the same through the back area and as you reach the ear connect the sides in too

Step 4: Continue to work over the crown and through the top section.

A right angle

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Alternatively: Step 1: Start the hair cut by sectioning the top and cutting a parallel section to the head. Stand central to the client and keep your back straight

Step 2: Work your way forwards to the front hairline

Step 3: Using the guideline you created on top and Keep the hair at 90 degrees from the head

Step 4: Using the guideline you created on top and Keep the hair at 90 degrees from the head, in orange segments. Do not lean the hair towards you as one side will be longer than the other when finished

Step 5: Continue down to the nape area keeping to your guideline. Comb the hair well and always keep it wet for an accurate cut.

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It is not important what method you choose to cut hair, as long as you achieve the end result the client wants and your cut is accurate.

Cross checking • When you have created a style within your haircut, you need to check across both sides to make sure your cut is balanced and even. • If you cut the hair horizontally, you must cross‐check vertically. • If you cut the hair vertically, you must cross‐check horizontally. • You can use your mirror and hold a piece of hair at both sides and pull outwards at the same time, to check for balance, even though you have cross checked a cut it could be out on balance. Why do you think a cut can be inaccurate on balance? …………………………………………………………………………………………………………… Once finished suggest products to enhance the style and promote retail sales, when applying follow manufacturers instructions Product Name:

Used for:

Product Name:

Product Name: Used for:

Once you have completed and the client is satisfied with the results, take the client to reception to pay for the treatment. At this point add up any retail sales to the service and suggest another appointment. Rebooking is vital to a successful business. How often should you need a haircut and what influences this? …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. http://hairdressing.ac.uk/node/71

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http://hairdressing.ac.uk/node/72

Graduated hair cut Step 1: Start at the crown and remove length required

Step 2: begin to angle your fingers to 45 degrees between the crown and occipital bone. Draw a 45 degree angle on the head shape

Step 3: Use scissor over comb to blend the hair from short to long. The top layers are longer and the underneath is shorter

Alternatively

Step 1: section the hair into a horseshoe

Step 2: Start at the nape line and work upwards

Step 2: begin to angle slightly to blend with the top

Step 4: Work around the head Step 5: Angle at 45 degrees to blend with top section

Step 6: Complete the top section and cross check

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Permanent waves are a way of making your hair wavy or curly. This can help support a style when blow drying. There are two types of perm lotion:

Acid Acid perms produce a soft wave and are ideal for clients with delicate or fine hair. The perm usually will not last as long as an alkaline perm.

What pH is hair?

How much does each perm cost?

6 perms = £ 21.00

V.A.T at 20% needs adding to £21.00 how much are 6 perms plus VAT

Workings out:

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Alkaline

Alkaline perms produce a stronger curl that will last longer than an acid perm. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on use

If 3 perms cost £12.60 How much is an individual perm?

What does R stand for? ………………………………………………………. The salon has an offer on for 10% off Alkaline perms. A perm costs £45.00. How much will they pay?

Workings out:

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Perming History

Research perms in history

In the early 1900, perms used to be hooked up to the electric. Clients would have scalp burns after the perm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perm_(hairstyle)

The next idea was to have the perm wound up and then the clamps were attached, they had been pre heated on metal bars so the client was not directly connected to the electric.

Exothermic perms, or exothermic waves are self‐ heating. It is created by a chemical reaction that makes them heat up internally. The heat allows the lotion to get into the cortex and moulds the hair into its new form from inside. Exothermic perms give beautiful bouncy and resilient waves.

Cold wave lotion. Introduced in 1937. The hair was wrapped in rods and a reducing lotion containing ammonium thioglycolate was applied

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perm_(hairstyle)

The plastic straps are used to stop the rubber bands from causing breakage when the perm lotion is on the hair

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Perming equipment needed Perm rods/ End papers Trolley Pins Manufacturer’s instructions Perm Lotion and Neutraliser Gloves (non latex powder free) Apron Drip tray Record Card/i salon slip Tail comb Sectioning clips Climazone/hood dryer Gown Towels Brushes Tinting bowl and sponge Timer Barbicide Detangling comb Mousse Cotton wool Processing cap Difusser Barrier Cream

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Tests on hair Match up the tests to the explanation

Elasticity

Check for presence of metallic salts

Porosity

Check for any allergic reaction to the product

Imcompatibility Skin Development curl test

Check for the condition of the cortex

Check to see if the perm is ready

Check for the condition of the cuticle

If test are not carried out the hair or skin: it may be damaged. The result of the perm may not be as requested, the client could take legal action and the client could have an allergic reaction to the perm. If the hair breaks and snaps when tested DO NOT CARRY ON with service and tell your manager/tutor. You can offer a conditioning treatment until the hair repairs. Right down all test results on the clients record card in case they take legal action and you know what service has been carried out. This always looks more professional and is recorded for next time if they liked it Remember to record name, address, date and service and products you have used.

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Winding Techniques

Provide a full consultation use style books and pictures to identify the type of finished result the client wants. Remember to ask how the client intends to style her hair at home

A brickwork wind:

This done to avoid lines and partings created by the rollers. It is good for clients with sparse or fine hair.

A nine section:

This most commonly used. It is easy to wind and is methodical to do.

A Directional wind:

This is for when the client wants to hair their hair in a certain direction. For example the sides going forward.

Perms do not have to be curly

How many rods do you think are in the picture of the directional wind above? 10‐20

40 ‐ 60

90‐120

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Rod sizes These will produce very curly hair. They are best used on short hair if the client wants the hair very curly.

These will produce curly hair. They can be used on short hair if the client wants the hair curly and on long hair with red rods for a tight spiral effect

Apply mousse throughout the hair. Read M.I

Effect on long hair Effect on short hair

The rod size can change depending on the length, density, texture and how much curl the client wants

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Perming from start to finish Prepare all tools and equipment prior to the service so you look professional and will save time during the treatment. Carry out a full consultation to determine the degree of curl and for you to assess the hairs condition, length, texture and density. Gown the client and shampoo NO CONDITIONER and towel dry the hair If the client has previous perm left on the hair then use a pre perm treatment to even out the hair that is still permed and hair that has no perm. The hair will all take the same when developing, thus evens out porosity

Select correct rod size and wind in the direction the client wants, using end papers, neat sections the length and width of the rod. Use a tail comb and begin to wind. You have 45 minutes to do this.

End papers will avoid fish hooks. These are where the hair has not been put around the rod in the end paper smoothly. The ends have buckled. The only remedy is to cut them off.

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Usually hair is post damped. This means put all the perm rods in then apply the lotion. Hair can be pre damped if very long, and then you would apply lotion to the hair as you are winding to soften the bonds. This would require you wearing P.P.E. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on application.

Make sure you cover all rods with solution and make sure that all the hair is in a rod or you will have straight pieces left. Is this pre damping or post damping? Use cotton wool around the hairline to stop solution running in the clients eyes. A drip tray will help to so that perm lotion isn’t dripping on the gown.

Time the development. This is very important or the perm may over process resulting in frizzy hair. Heat can speed up development; if the salon is warm the perm will develop quicker Unwind the rod 1½ times then push it towards the scalp allowing the hair to unfold naturally. If the hair has processed it will take on a deep S shape. Do this in a few places throughout the head. What test is this? ………………………………………………

Which hair looks ready A or B? A

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Neutralising (normalising) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9AesdPZCHQ

Remove the cotton wool and Rinse for?

………………………………………………….

Check water temperature to maintain client comfort and avoid the scalp irritating. If the water is too hot the perm could be tighter

Towel and blot dry. The more water that is removed the less the neutraliser will dilute.

Re apply dry cotton wool and put neutraliser on. Foam on the head NOT in the bowl to release more oxygen. Use 2/3rds of the product. Some neutralisers are applied directly from the bottle. Always read and follow instructions. Leave for 5 minutes

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Remove rods gently to avoid disturbing the curl. Apply rest of neutraliser and leave for 5 minutes. In this time you should rinse all rods thoroughly and sterilise them. Rinse again then to remove all products so the hair will not over process

Condition the hair (Anti‐Oxidant) to stop further processing (creeping oxidation), close the cuticle and add moisture. Make sure it is a pH balanced to return the hair to its natural pH state. If the neutraliser is a 60 ml bottle, how much is 2/3rd of the bottle?

Wella Formwell Perm & Neutraliser ‐ £17.49 (ex VAT)

Wella Formwell Perm Is A 1ltr All Purpose Perm Lotion And 1ltr Neutraliser.

http://www.directsalonsupplies.co.uk/shop/73/125/index. htm

How much with VAT? Show your workings out

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Aftercare advice NEVER let the client leave without plenty of advice. Try not too shampoo for 24‐48 hours to give the perm chance to settle. Do not go swimming for about a week, as the chlorine will relax the perm. Too much swimming can make the hair dry and unmanageable. You can have it coloured the week after ONLY if the condition is alright Use a wide tooth comb when combing and start at the tips working up to the root Apply mousse to produce curls to natural dry hair. Wella curl energy mousse is ideal. Book a conditioning treatment If the client has a busy lifestyle, often perms are good because they can mousse it and leave to dry. If they don’t want this look it may take them longer, as the hair will need to be blow dried around a brush. What products can you recommend from your salon? Have a trim in 4‐6 weeks Don’t use heated equipment on the hair continually or it will damage the hair and make it more elastic and porous. Any problems return to the salon

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What happens to hair when perming and neutralising?

Active ingredient

Perm lotion:

Ammonia Thioglycolate

Purpose

Reduction – reduces the hair (breaks the bonds)by Hydrogen in perm lotion

Bonds

Di Sulphide or sulphur bonds

Neutraliser

Active ingredient

Hydrogen peroxide

Purpose

Oxidation – oxidising the hair by adding oxygen which fixes the hair into place.

Bonds

Di sulphide bonds reform in new shape

This is an image of the polypeptide chains that are in the cortex and made up of keratin. The bonds shown are sulphur or disulphide bonds that soften when perming hair

Sulphur or di sulphide bonds in cortex

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The Hydrogen ( from the perm lotion) attaches itself to a sulphur and the hair can slide around to take on the shape of the roller.

Neutraliser

The neutraliser floods the hair with oxygen and the Hydrogen is attracted to the oxygen. 2 hydrogen and 1 oxygen molecule drip from the hair in a chemical reaction, leaving the sulphur bonds to reform, although not where they started as they have moved around the roller. Read M.I Neutraliser turns oxygen into water as hydrogen is removed from the hair

http://www.humantouchofchemistry.com/the‐chemistry‐of‐perming‐rebonding.htm

Perm lotion when applied to hair softens the sulphur or di sulphide bonds and lets them mould to the size of the rod. So the bigger the rod the bigger the curl and the smaller the rod the tighter the curl.

Where is the oxygen from?

Recap:

Answer ………………………………………..

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The structure of hair: Hair is made mostly of a protein called keratin, which is also present in nails. In hair, keratin molecules are arranged in straight bundles. These bundles are held together by disulphide bonds (‐S‐S‐), which give strength to the hair.

Applying the perm solution : REDUCTION – perm lotion is a reducing agent The hair swells and the cuticle scales are opened The solution soaks into the cortex The reducing agent (Perm lotion) adds hydrogen to the disulphide bonds and breaks them. The hair is now softened reforming to the shape of the perm rod

Time the perm correctly so the sulphur bonds can form in the cortex

Test to see if the perm is ready: Unwind the rod 1½ times then

push it towards the scalp allowing the hair to unfold naturally. If the hair has processed it will take on a deep S shape.

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Applying the neutraliser : OXIDATION – Neutraliser is an oxidising agent The job of the neutraliser is to fix the hair into the new shape. Neutralisers commonly contain hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate or sodium bromate. The pH can vary from 2.5 to 7 depending on the type of neutraliser. The neutraliser adds oxygen to the hair which re‐joins the disulphide bonds and fixes the hair into the new shape It reduces the swelling of the hair shaft caused by the alkaline perm lotion. You must condition afterwards.

What would happen if you put the rods in like the picture below?

Answers …………………………………………

…………………………………………

http://hairdressing.ac.uk/node/476

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Factors and problems when perming

If the hair is long you will need to pre damp, use larger rods and charge according to time and solution used. When neutralising you will have to partial unwind and add more neutraliser to the ends. If the hair is short, rods may keep falling out, put a setting net on when rinsing.

Depending on the condition depends on the perm lotion ACIDS : kinder and milder Alkalines: Harsher firmer curl

What rod size A or B?

..........................................................

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Contra Indications

How it affects what you do

Skin Disorders

This could be cracked or broken skin, Psorasis that has flared up and is very sore. Ask the client to seek medical advice before continuing

Previous allergic reactions

Test on skin Suggest an alternative treatment Do not do perm

Incompatible products

Recommend something else

Hair scalp damage:

The curl may look better when wet although will dry frizzy if over processed. Perm lotion could have been too strong. Apply deep penetrating conditioning treatments to repair the hair

Perm too curly: The rods are the wrong size, they are too small. If the hair is not curly enough re perm only if the condition is alright

Keep checking with the client that the perm feels alright. If the scalp irritates rinse immediately and remove. If the perm is uneven when finished re perm loose areas if the condition is alright

Problem Fish Hooks

Frizz

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Cause

Remedy

 the ends of the hair being

cut the fish hooked ends off

 buckled or bent during winding

 perm lotion too strong

cut the frizzy ends off

 over processing during perming or neutralising  rods too small Hair breakage

 over processing  rubbers placed incorrectly

use deep penetrating conditioner or restructurants

 too much tension applied during winding Straight pieces

 rods being wound If the hair condition of the hair is alright then re unevenly perm the straight pieces.  perm lotion being Make sure no perm applied unevenly lotion goes on hair that  neutraliser being is curly or it will be applied unevenly straight again.

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______________NOTES________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________ ___________________________________

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Date

This diary is to help you log your salon placement hours. Salon Name Address and Tasks undertaken contact details

Hours logged

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Where and what now?

Hairdressing Evaluation Q1. What level are you currently studying?

Q2. Have you enjoyed yourself on this course?

Q3. Have you surprised yourself on your personal development? YES/NO

Q4. What will you remember the most about this course? ....................................................................................................................................... ....................................................................................................................................... Q5. Was your tutor: Knowledgeable about the subject?

Well prepared?

Used varied resources and embedded Maths and English references to the programme, Inc ILT,?

Q6. Can you think of 3 ideas (whether big or small) that would help make this course better for future students? ………………………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………………………………………

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Q7. What qualifications have you achieved? Including your Maths and English too? ....................................................................................................................................... ....................................................................................................................................... Q8. What’s next? Continue onto next level Work in a salon Work mobile, Other (please specify) …………………………………………………………………………………….. Q9. What do you think you could have done (if anything) to get more out of this course? ……………………………………………………………………………………………….. Q10.What trips would you have liked organised? ……………………………………………………………………………………………….. Q11. If you have already been on a trip with us this year, what did you learn from it, and do you have any suggestions for improvement? ………………………………………………………………………………………………… Q12. What advice would you give someone starting this course next year? ………………………………………………………………………………………………… Q13. Sum up what the course was like for you in 3 separate words? ………………………………………………………………………………………………… Q14. Did this book help you with your theory work throughout the programme and what would you like to have seen included, that wasn’t?

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Any comments and thanks for completing this evaluation.

Amanda Melton Principal and Chief Executive Scotland Road, Nelson, Lancashire, BB9 7YT Tel: 01282 440200 Fax: 01282 440274 Email:reception@nelson.ac.uk web: www.nelson.ac.uk