VMAN 34
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Christopher McDonnell ASSISTANT EDITOR-IN-CHIEF / CREATIVE DIRECTOR Mariana Flores Sosa ART DIRECTOR Annette Zuozo FEATURES DIRECTOR Joni Tai SENIOR EDITOR Lisa Pham ADVERTISING MANAGER Chelsea Baldwin CONSULTING CREATIVE / PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTION Madeleine M. Ivey CONTRIBUTING EDITORS David Lisbon Ashley Rosales PHOTOGRAPHY Madeleine M. Ivey Heejung Kim Francisco Gonzalez TALENT Michael Magliochetti Terry Aahn Lawrence Murray Aidan Toohey Spencer Humphries Troy Allen Jake Margle Tanner Scarr Brian Poticny Josh Brown Alexandra Marcela Bradacs ON THE COVER: TROY ALLEN IN TROY ALLEN US. PHOTOGRAPHY MADELEINE M. IVEY
VMAN is a registered trademark of VMAN LLC. Copyright © 2015 VMAN LLC. All rights reserved. Printed in U.S.A. VMAN(BIPD 96492) is published biannually by VMAN LLC. Principal office: 11 Mercer Street, New York, NY 10013. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Speedimpex 30-10 Review Avenue. Long Island City, NY 11101. For subscriptions, address changes, and adjustments, contact Speedimpex 30-10 Review Avenue, Long Island City, NY 11101, Tel: 800.969.1258, e-mail: subsciptions@speedimpex.com. For back issues, contact VMAN, 11 Mercer Street, New York, NY 10013, Tel: 212.27.8959,vman.com. For press inquiries please contact Purple PR Tel. 212.858.9888
19 VMAN • MASTHEAD
TABLE OF
CONTENTS 21 VMAN • CONTENTS
25
welcome to fall/winter ‘15
27
VMAN’S TOP PICKS FOR ACCESSORIES fall/winter 2015
Fashion Editor Mariana Floressosa analyzes the highlights of menswear fashion week for Fall 2015
Highlighting the essential menswear accessories for this coming fall
29
IBIZA
31
ANGEL
The hottest travel destination for your next vacation
This generation’s young and upcoming menswear designer
35
REUBEN A modern day Renaissance man
39 41 45 57 73 79
BMW I8 A man’s new toy
21ST CENTURY ARCHITECTURE The untimely demise of architectural progress
ALL EYES ON TROY ALLEN Troy Allen, a Savannah-based fashion designer, with a promising future
A MISGUIDED RIDE Take a look into this season’s most eccentric accessories
MEET THE NEXT GEN A spotlight on the industries’ five most creatives
THE MORNING AFTER A look into this generation’s juvenile transgression
LETTER FROM
THE EDITOR 23 VMAN • HELLO
IT’S A NEW SEASON AT VMAN AND REVOLUTION IS IN THE AIR We bring to you the revolution of VMAN with a whole new approach to the millennial generation. We have analyzed the Fall 2015 menswear shows in London, Milan, Paris, and New York and brought to you the highlights from Fashion Week Fall 2015. Designers’ message of optimism came down the runway with much energy and groundbreaking ready-to-wear looks. Within the relativity of our XY market, we picked the best underground designers and masters of the form to create stories that are more personal, controversial, and meta than ever before. With so much sartorial momentum in our sight, we decided to highlight a few of the new faces shaping the fashion industry. We chose 5 youth stars in the fashion sphere whose focus and vision illuminate the possibilities of the unexpected aesthetic. From Fashion Marketers, to DJ’s and Designers we brought to you the best-of-the-best in this millennial generation. In addition to our creative features, we continue our evolution with some new collaborators added to our roster. We welcome Fashion Photographer, Madeleine M. Ivey, who shows us the current subject of juvenile transgression in a story that unleashes a fresh flood of creativity. When it comes to the acceleration of time and progress, there is no one more influential than the Savannah based fashion designer, Troy Allen, whose creativeness and technical skills have positioned him as the promising future of the fashion industry. As Allen continues to propose new ideas regarding identity and systems of expression, he discusses the level of his creative content and what he is plotting to conquer next. Francis Bacon once said, “Things alter for the worse spontaneously, if they be not altered for the better designedly.” As we take this issue to print, the new generation of fashion insiders are heading for even greater stratospheres of creativity-inspiring us once again. With Bacon’s warning in mind, we are pleased to present a redesign of VMAN for 2015. Engineered by art director Annette Zuozo, you will notice that we are brighter and bolder than ever before. It’s a reflection of our faith in men’s fashion and creative talent right now. Welcome to the future. MARIANA FLORESSOSA
WELCOME TO
FALL/WINTER ‘15 25 VMAN • report
FASHION EDITOR MARIANA FLORESSOSA ANALYZES THE HIGHLIGHTS OF MENSWEAR FASHION WEEK FOR FALL 2015. AMONG HER PICKS, SURREAL RUNWAY WORLDS, QUINTESSENTIAL COLOURS, AND CONTROVERSIAL SILHOUETTES. by MARIANA FLORESSOSA ILLUSTRATION by JONI TAI Tomas Maier was inspired by “the creative life” and brought to life a quintessential menswear collection claiming to be the man who doesn’t think about clothes, but dresses from necessity. Random fabrics and colors were pulled together, with fun names popping up. The purple was “byzantine,” orange was “persimmon,” gray was “ardoise,” and pink was “mallow,” which suggested that the creative life Maier envisaged was one lived by an artist. In addition to his eclectic mix of textiles and colors he added elasticized-waist trousers that made their casualness look relatively sophisticated. We pursued the notion of “clothes that have lived a life,” and added the pull-on pant in a rust knit for our editorial story, matched to an exclusive vintage platinum Wilson pullover. With inspiration from Bottega Veneta we followed the suited sartorial edge evocative of the artiest outfits. We moved forward with the puerility of the full-frontal display Rick Owens presented for Fall 2015, by emphasizing a little bit of juvenile transgression. “Puerility” aside, there was much of his collection to love: peacoats, parkas, studded leather tunics, and hooded coats with funnel quilting. A reminder that Owens roams into the wild country when he creates; and beauty is there. The most winning aspect of this whole artistic season was, of course, the fresh and energetic collection presented by Louis Vuitton. In tribute to Christopher Nemeth, Kim Jones featured the sportiness trend by nicely fusing their heritage with modern parka silhouettes, duffle coats, and jean jackets. Of course, reassuring the brand’s classicism. Bringing extraterrestrial life to the runway, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, presented Kenzo in a young, loud, and so chic manner. Staple bomber jackets were rethought with ribbed thumbholes and complementary paneling at the hem. Spray-colored fur at collars and thick stitching wound around mixed-material panels or slashed straight through leatherstrip chunky boots. The silver cloak and coat towards the end of the show were astronaut-street inspired, and the designers sent more direct messages to the cosmos with a Kenzo-font “UFO” sweatshirt, symbol socks, and nylon parkas. A dark hooded jacket and pant ensemble was crazy-sprayed with more dripping hieroglyphs and spaceships, like the jottings of some locked-up alien abductee or a graffiti artist. We dragged our inspiration from this runway for our accessories editorial reassembling looks and the artsy extraterrestrial vibe.
VMAN’S TOP PICKS FOR ACCESSORIES fall/winter 2015 SHOES One of the biggest trends for the upcoming season are thick soles added to sneakers and dress shoes. Alexander McQueen and other designers are adding jewels and embellishments to their footwear. We also see a mix of different textures that are being used on shoes and accessories. The most used combination of textiles this season were leather and suede, which played with the idea of mixing dress shoes and activewear shoes. Then there are shoes that are multilayered and multicolored, this can be seen in Dior Homme Fall 2015 collection. The shoes from Dior incorporate leather, making it a classic look. Boots are also seen in some menswear collections. Platforms are added to the soles to give it a fun boost of height. Alexander Wang’s Fall 2015 collection debuted shoes that combined a felt texture with rough leather straps and buckles. Sneakers have been making a come-back as well with the new Adidas Originals Stan Smith collaboration. Footwear has gone from class to comfort this season.
Hats Hats have always been a key accessory for Fall/Winter since it is both functional and fashionable. Borsalino, the leader in high quality and unique hats, debuted several fedora hats in multiple colors. Another trend for this season were fitted baseball caps. Vianel created an all leather baseball cap for an edgier look. However, Christopher Raeburn added a twist to the original fitted cap by adding wool to the caps. There are also more casual hats for those that are looking to keep things simple. Knit beanies are always a go-to for young men. They have the option of coming in multicolor thread or with geometric patterns on them. This season you will be seeing a range of hats from clean to more urban streetwear casual.
BAGS This season, designers brought out their creative minds when it comes to men’s bags. We have seen he playful structure of these bags changing every season. For Fall/Winter Christopher Raeburn designed a bag in a shape of a shark with red X’s as the eyes. He also made a colorblocking book bag with bright oranges and yellows. Longchamp, the heritge company who specialize in leather and nylon, designed a colorblocking bookbag as well. They mixed violet and blue colors to add contrast. Fendi was also playful with their bags by adding fabricated eyes and making the zipper a separate color to give the illusion of a mouth. A majority of the bags this season are either satchels or over the shoulder bags that consist of leathers with straps and buckles for closure. Bottega Veneta did a hand-held bag that is made from leather and had intricate weaving on the outside to add textures. Aquascutum did their take on a duffel bag, however made it more luxurious looking by creating it all out of deep blue leather with the strap being orange to complement the colors. Taking away the idea that clutches are only for women, this season proves that men are able to wear them too. Men should watch out for leather bags this season as it is on the rise with playful, colorblocking bookbags as well.
Jewelry They once said that only tough men can wear jewelry. Luckily, Emanuele Bicocchi made necklaces that are so versatile anyone can wear them. He incorporates charms, like crosses, onto thin simple silver chains. While his bracelets are made with thick, chunky chains he added leather to them to give them a soft touch. Givenchy also went along with the charm trends by adding white skulls onto his necklaces. Then of course there are the watches, a man’s best accessory. For the tech-savvy, there are the new innovative Apple iWatch that come with different bands you can switch out depending on your mood. Cartier for the over-indulging bachelor, Girard-Perregaux for the flashy man, and Hublot for the trendy, fashionable man. Watches will always be a staple in a man’s wardrobe and it is one you cannot miss this season.
27 VMAN • accessories CONTENTS
IBIZA
The hottest travel destination for the Millennial generation. There are not many destinations that can rival the party-hard reputation of Ibiza. This Spanish island is set off Spain’s of east coast in the Mediterranean Sea. With more than 100 miles of coastline and 50 beaches, consisting of restaurants, bars, clubs, and water sports, Ibiza is the hottest destination spot for college students and millennial’s on a budget. Ibiza’s party season runs from May to October, which also happens to be festival season! Along with the music festivals, beach goers can indulge in Ibiza’s club scene, which is one of the largest in the world. People travel from all over the world to experience Ibiza’s exciting nightlife. Aside from the nightlife, Ibiza has many different aspects that make it a great destination spot. For those that travel to Ibiza to tour the beautiful island, there are plenty of opportunities to take in the history and culture that Ibiza has to offer. There are 13 monuments, 10 museums, and 30 churches for tourists to visit while in Ibiza. The largest tourist attraction is Atlantis, which is completely underwater. Along with all of these sites, there are two national parks, Es Vedrà and Es Vedranell, which are made up of small islands, marine environments cliffs, streams, beaches, forests, and hill ranges. Whether you are visiting Ibiza to party, relax, or tour, there are plenty of adventures waiting for you! Ibiza has some of the most beautiful and relaxing beaches in the world. One of the best things about Ibiza is the different beaches to fit your mood. If you are feeling active, there are beaches with rock jumping, diving, sailing, cycling, horseback riding, fishing, and kayaking. 29 VMAN • travel
If you are looking for a relaxing day, there are beaches where you can do yoga or go for spa retreats. Ibiza has the best of both worlds: relaxing, adventurous days on the beach and wild nights out. If you are looking for a good time, Ibiza is the place to be! Now lets talk about something really important- FOOD! Who doesn’t love a good meal? In Ibiza, there are some restaurants they tourists must try while they are there. If you love seafood, you must try out Es Torrent and the Fish Shack. These two restaurants will not disappoint you. Es Torrent is more of a relaxing, restaurant style while the Fish Shack is outdoors on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea. No matter where you go, the grilled prawns and cold beers will taste better than ever. No one should miss out on trying Balafia while in Ibiza. This restaurant is set in a pretty grove of lemon trees. This restaurant is different than the usual because there is no menu. You just eat the freshest tomato salad and most savory grilled meats you could want. Like the beaches, the food of Ibiza is far from disappointing! Families, college students, and singles should not miss out on a chance to visit Ibiza. There are plenty of activities, beautiful sites to see, and delicious food to eat for everyone. Ibiza is constantly developing which means new restaurants, clubs, and improvements are being made so tourists will always have something new to see. So back your bathing suits and your appetite and come relax on the beautiful beaches of Ibiza! CHELSEA BALDWIN
angel MENSWEAR DESIGNER ANGEL MUKTAN INTERVIEW BY JONI TAI AND ANNETTE ZUOZO
31 VMAN • FASHION
PHOTOGRAPHY HEEJUNG KIM CLOTHES ANGEL MUKTAN
VMAN SAT DOWN WITH THE YOUNG UPCOMING DESIGNER TO FIND OUT ABOUT HIS LATEST COLLECTION AND FOREIGN UPBRINGING. VMAN: What made you want to go into fashion? Why Menswear? Angel Muktan: When I came to SCAD, I wanted to do something illustration based. I’m from Nepal and I felt like with what I was doing, I didn’t have a story to tell. I was making so many women’s garments and after the photo-shoots, the story would end. With menswear, I could make the garments and wear it for myself. V: What would you say is your aesthetic? AM: I would say that my aesthetic is very “coming of age”. I imagine that wishful thinking while you’re in a classroom. I’ve always been driven by something narrative, a narrative based on concept. I’m very experimental but not gimmicky. I like the idea of a boy growing up, that kind of aesthetic. V: Why did you choose SCAD and Savannah? AM: I was applying to a lot of colleges in the United States and my dad wanted me to study in the United States as well. SCAD just so happened to give me a full scholarship. V: Do you like it? AM: I like it because it is so art driven and not so much consumer driven. But I wish fashion was more 3D driven but it is more 2D driven. V: Where have you interned before? AM: I have interned at J. Mendel. At that time I didn’t know what I wanted to do in fashion, I thought it was just pretty stuff, but I was lucky that I was in the Fabric Sourcing department and it introduced me to textiles. V: Who would you say are your biggest influences? AM: As for designers, Raf Simmons and Yohji Yamamoto were the first designers that I saw but I didn’t know how to feel at that time. I was naïve at the time and I thought, “How could this be fashion?” It didn’t really make sense to me. I couldn’t tell what I liked. As a designer, it is important to have a good visual. V: What inspired your latest collection? AM: The idea was based on… I forget the graphic designer’s name but there’s this really big trend that graphic designers like to do which are paper toy monsters. So what they do is, they make these templates and then you cut them out and you make a toy out of it. It’s a really intelligent way of thinking, like the way they imagine and they have to be so careful about the layout, like how they’re going to fold, etc. As much as fashion loves literal translation, I think that I don’t like to be too literal so what I did was I applied this kind of templates to the clothes. And instead of using glue to paste, because that’s too crafty, I thought why not just attach it to the cloth, so that’s how I went about it. As a designer, you obviously need to be thinking forward and you can be really aggressive about it.
So a lot of the textiles that I use, I wanted to use what you can find around like furnishing or the uniform you’re wearing or a tarp that you find, it’s really immediate. Customers that I’m designing for are like the life of the party and are misfits and innovators. In Nepal, “bhoot” means monsters or ghosts. The way I intended these garments to be was like so that you can take parts, like parts of one jacket and put it in another jacket. So that you can play around with it, almost like paper, like a toy. That was the whole idea behind it. Even the textiles have a lot of compressing; just like a kid you would keep on pasting things on top of another to make it look good. I could see that there were so many possibilities to do transformable shapes. There is this one garment that is a jacket, but you can actually turn it upside down and then it becomes another jacket. So the shape just unfolds, and then underneath it is a pair of pants, so it can transform into a pair of pants. I really like the idea of sustainability and using the fabric in a really good way and how multifunctional can it be? If I was paying $100 for something, I would want it to be worth it, I want to be entertained by what I’m wearing. The idea was to take one piece out of something and put it on another one. V: So you’ve always have had a love for fashion, but it has dove deeper now that you’re at SCAD? AM: Yeah, more of like a love for clothes I guess. I was doing a lot of textiles in my high school too, but those were just like a joke. It felt like I could really do something in this and that’s how I got into fashion. V: Do you draw any inspiration from your upbringing in Nepal? AM: I can’t really say in a conscious manner, like subconsciously of course, it always influences me in any way, maybe the manner I work. Yeah, like the whole spontaneous thing and the humor of it, like maybe that subconsciously comes in but I wouldn’t say that there is a literal, obvious influence but nothing visual. The thing is a lot of people confuse Nepali culture with Indian culture. It’s so similar, like the Gods are so similar and everything, like on our temples and stuff like that. But if you see the color palette, Nepal is so watered down compared to India in my opinion. Design wise, I don’t really see myself literally inspired or influenced by Nepali art. V: Where do you see yourself in the future, what direction do you want to go into? AM: Well, I haven’t had any formal menswear training. I’ve just done it all based on guesswork, by looking at the finishing my clothes have, etc. I would probably want to get experience in the menswear industry for at least two years. My roommate and I have a plan to have a dual brand together. But we have to give ourselves some years in the industry to experience it.
ILLUSTRATIONS ANGEL MUKTAN
REUBEN
MODERN DAY RENAISSANCE MAN ARTWORK REUBEN WU
35 VMAN • ART
An Uncommon Place (top) Ultima Esperanza (bottom)
An Uncommon Place
Reuben Wu is an undiscovered talent. Born in Liverpool, England, the 39-year-old creative thinker has adapted skills in multiple creative realms. He is an established musician, photographer, industrial designer, and filmmaker. He is the co-founder of Ladytron—an electronic band that was formed in 1999. The band consists of Reuben Wu himself, Helen Marnie, Mira Aroyo, and Daniel Hunt. His role in the band as the synthesizer brings modern, digital sounds into the equation. You can see the influence of his music in the style of his photography. Ladytron has had their share of success, touring all across the world and playing at multiple popular festivals, such as Coachella and Reading. However, Wu’s success and creativity is not just captured in his music. His photography skills were brought to attention when he released a book filled with collections of photographs in 2011. His photography has been featured in multiple websites and blogs but despite the attention, Wu has continued to remain humble and focused on his passions and aesthetic. His aesthetic has a common theme of open spaces, dramatic sceneries, and contrasting yet muted colors. His work was recently featured on hypebeast.com, a site focused on all the latest trending music, fashion, art, etc. The article focused on three of his photo series, An Uncommon Place, Cross Country, and XI. All three of these photo series “assert epic, psychedelic natural landscapes tinged with urban motifs. These expansive visuals are tinted in Wu’s color palette, which uses pastel greens, pinks, yellows, and blues to create surreal compositions”.
37 VMAN • ART
The photographs convey the world in a mysterious and magical manner with the vast compositions and the surreal color stories. Reuben Wu describes An Uncommon Place as “an attempt to convey my relationship to landscape and artefact. A perpetual search for unfamiliar terrain. An ongoing personal project”. The landscapes are ethereal and vast and evoke emotions of curiosity and awe. His collection Ultima Esperanza is a collection of icy photographs taken in Patagonia and Ultima Esperanza, Chile. These photographs continue to convey his aesthetic of vast and open spaces with surreal colors. Cross Country has a similar aesthetic with the two previous mentioned, but takes place in the United States. The open and empty roads are picturesque with multicolored skies that can only leave the viewer wondering if it is real. However, still media is not the only talent of Wu. His collaborations with many other artists to create motion media can be seen on his website along with all of his other projects. Some of his photographs from his collection Cross Country cwan be purchased on fotofoamco.com. While still hidden from the public eye of many, Reuben Wu is truly an artist that deserves the attention of the spotlight. JONI TAI
BMW i8 MEET A MAN’S NEW TOY Welcome to the future, courtesy of the BMW i8 sports car. There is no doubt that this car is a game changer for the future of sports cars and car enthusiasts everywhere! The i8 will have you toggling between various drive settings that tune the powertrain for comfort, economy, electric-only driving, or sport mode. With the BMW i8, sustainability and efficiency meet dynamics and athleticism. The BMW i8 is part of BMW’s “Project i” and is being marketed as a new brand, BMW i, sold separately from BMW or Mini. The initial model of the i brand launched in 2009 but it was not until 2013, when the BMW i3 launched, that the first BMW i vehicle was available for purchase. The BMW i8 starts at $136,500. Consumers have 6 different color combinations to choose from but these color combinations only consist of sophistico grey, protonic blue, ionic silver, BMW i blue, crystal white pearl, and frozen grey. No matter what color combination the consumer chooses, the BMW i8 a sleek, futuristic sports car that will drops jaws on the road. The entire shape and form of the BMW i8 follows the BMW i8 design philosophy, which creates a unique connection between groundbreaking sustainability and premium character. The approach includes the so-called black belt. This unmistakable black design element runs from the front, over the roof, to the rear in all BMW i models. Also typical of BMW i are the dynamic stream-flow design, the Air curtains and striking details such as the LED Daytime Running Light in a distinctive U-shape and the LED rear lights. In the interior, the BMW i design philosophy is demonstrated in the selected use of sustainably produced lightweight materials. Where possible, there is systematic use of components produced from renewable raw materials. Long wheelbase, short overhangs, a solid stance as it crouches on the street: the BMW i8 has all the characteristics of a full-blooded sports car. The front appears extremely low and wide. Layering design, a method in which surfaces and lines overlap and interweave, produces an extremely sporty appearance all around. The BMW i8’s upwards scissor doors immediately shows the sports cars character. 39 VMAN • TECHNOLOGY
Thanks to the aluminum, carbon, and thermoplastic used in their construction, they are particularly convenient to open and close from the inside. The sporty look of the exterior is continued seamlessly in the interior of the BMW i8. All passengers have a low seating position and the narrow lightweight seats provide reliable support and outstanding of comfort even when cornering rapidly. The iDriver Controller is conveniently located on the center console that optically bisects the vehicle. Lets get right into the technical talk- the i8’s techie plug-in hybrid powertrain is a combination of a mid-mounted, 228-horsepower 1.5-liter turbocharged 3-cylinder engine, coupled to 6-speed automatic with paddle shifters and an 11-horsepower starter motor generator. This small motor aids functions such as the stop-start fuel saving system, an also works to minimize turbo lag in the gas engine. Not to mention it goes 0-60 in approximately 0.4 seconds! At the front of the i8, under a sealed hood, is a 129-horsepower electric motor connected to a 2-speed transmission, which comes into play during electric-only driving. All this tech skill provides the i8 with a vast combination of front, rear, or all-wheel-drive. In EV mode, only the front wheels are powered. Shift to Sport, however, and the power bias is shifted towards the rear. The combined output is 357-horsepower and 420 lb.-ft. of torque (minus the 11-hp rear motor generator). This pushes the BMW to a top speed that’s electronically limited to 155 mph. Despite having only an 11-gallon fuel tank, the electric motor and gas engine deliver a driving range of 330 miles, along with an EPA estimated 29 mpg during highway driving. That’s more than overall range than an electric-powered Tesla Model S, and it’s within a few miles of a Cadillac ELR plug-in hybrid. Nothing rivals the BMW i8’s blend of efficiency, performance, and user-friendly driving dynamics. As the ultimate performance-meetssustainability expression of the “Ultimate Driving Machine,” the i8 is without peer. CHELSEA BALDWIN
21ST CENTURY ARCHITECTURE The untimely demise of architectural progress. Surrounded by the built environment on a daily basis we all consider our space, whether consciously or unconsciously. We move through noting the large, the unusual, the uncomfortable. Occasionally giving special pause to the spaces that deliver feelings we can’t quite identify. We treat most spaces in the terms they are given to us. We expect to find beauty in places visited rarely or tasked with a monotonous upkeep. Spaces we occupy daily do not receive an equal treatment. As a student of architectural design there are three key elements found in successful design: firmness, commodity, and delight. Of course the first can be quantified with physical evidence. Is the space habitable? Is the space able to resist the relevant natural occurrences? This is often simplified by the thought that firmness is directly related to structure and materials. Which, while important is not the only meaning of firmness. We could take it to mean a place that has a firmness in memory, quality of space, or even the way sound travels. In this sense there are a lot more than three things to try and achieve while designing space. While it is laudable to try and cover all of these bases it may not be the best way to go about this task. The best course may be to question the things we don’t want to show up in our spaces, at all costs what are the things that cannot occur here? After answering this question, and there are a lot of very simple answers to this question, you begin to build. As far back as the pyramids in ancient egypt architecture has been about the parts that go into making a ‘good’ space. The walls, 41 VMAN • architecture
the floors, the roof, in terms of the tangible, and the solid and void aspects found in the space between. As we move forward more aspects need to be considered, in the last twenty years there has been a huge movement towards green design. Architecture has felt this movement mostly in the way its systems are designed and used. This is more of an engineering/mechanical leap than it is for the growth of the space. There is a difference between an antiquated form that operates at a low energy use and a space designed to address a host of issues, be they experiential, energy based, or the issue of space as a form of art. Architects sometimes forget this in search of other notable aspects. On occasion certain firms and architects work very hard to address the issues of space building first and foremost. For example, the interior of the Performance Center at the Manchester Museum of Art, a project by Zaha Hadid, shows a space designed like a sculpture. These small pockets of good design are hard to come by and are often lost in fully realized projects. Of the architects who do this the best in process is Steven Holl. His early sketches and study models are prime examples of the type of space construction necessary to push architecture into the 21st century. As we face this host of issues in the upcoming years there is no one answer to all the questions posed by the dilemma of architectural progress. As a society and as professional designers we must ask more of our spaces, more of our materials, and most of all more of our critical eye for architectural detail and clarity. DAVID LISBON
VMAN 34 STOCKISTS ACNE STUDIOS ACNESTUDIOS.COM ADIDAS ORIGINALS ADIDAS.COM ADIDAS ORIGINALS X STAN SMITH ADIDAS.COM ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ALEXANDERMCQUEEN.COM ALL SAINTS ALLSAINTS.COM BALMAIN BALMAIN.COM BELSTAFF BELSTAFF.COM BOTTEGA VENETA BOTTEGAVENETA.COM CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION CALVINKLEIN.COM CHLOÉ CHLOE.COM DIOR HOMME DIOR.COM DSQUARED2 DSQUARED2.COM GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN GIUSEPPEZANOTTIDESIGN.COM GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI GIVENCHY.COM HOOD BY AIR HOODBYAIR.COM KENZO KENZO.COM LANVIN LANVIN.COM LEMAIRE LEMAIRE.FR LOEWE LOEWE.COM LOUIS VUITTON LOUISVUITTON.COM MARC BY MARC JACOBS MARCJACOBS.COM MARTINE AND JUAN MARTINEANDJUAN.COM NIKE NIKE.COM NIKE AIR MAX NIKE.COM NIXON NIXON.COM NUDIE JEANS NUDIEJEANS.COM OAK OAKNYC.COM PAUL SMITH PAULSMITH.CO.UK RAF SIMONS RAFSIMONS.COM RICK OWENS RICKOWENS.EU RYAN EICKHOFF RYANEICKHOFF.COM SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE YSL.COM SUPRA FOOTWEAR SUPRAFOOTWEAR.COM T BY ALEXANDER WANG ALEXANDERWANG.COM TROY ALLEN US TROYALLENUS.COM VETEMENTS VETEMENTSWEBSITE.COM WILSON WILSON.COM YOHJI YAMAMOTO YOHJIYAMAMOTO.CO.JP
THIS IS MENSWEAR NOW
ALL EYES ON TROY ALLEN
a missguided ride MEET THE NEXT GEN
THE MORNING AFTER
vman 44
ALL EYES ON TROY ALLEN “I don’t see other young designers as competition. I love young designers, I want to be apart of their success. I also don’t believe anyone should define art. I consider myself a business man and I’m making things for people to wear to create a lifestyle.” TROY ALLEN PHOTOGRAPHY MADELEINE M. IVEY TEXT ASHLEY ROSALES 45 VMAN
TURTLENECK TROY ALLEN US JEANS MARC BY MARC JACOBS SHOES ADIDAS ORIGINALS
THIS SPREAD: CLOTHING MARC BY MARC JACOBS
CLOTHING MARC BY MARC JACOBS SLIP ONS NIKE
Meet Troy Allen A platinum haired stunner, and the most badass-not to mention youngest designer emerging from Savannah, Georgia. Troy has more confidence in himself than most adults do, and he’s got a killer brand to prove it. With fun, fresh, and original ideas, Troy never fails to bring us cutting edge and livable pieces. In just one minute while speaking to him, our conversation spanned the topics of religion, his zodiac sign and his obsession with juicing. I guarantee you won’t find another 19 year old like him.
ASHLEY ROSALES: How did you get started in fashion?
AR: Who is your favorite designer?
TROY ALLEN: I was dancing, more specifically doing classical ballet and training a lot. But I wanted to start helping out with costumes and sewing them. So my freshman year of high school I did Snow White the ballet and I was cast as the Prince, and I thought it was cool and all being a freshman cast as the lead, but I still wanted to do the costumes. So my teacher let me do the costumes for the Queen. She had four costume changes; [the Queen] was decked out. The following year my Stepdad bought me lessons with April Johnston, who taught me how to sew, and that’s when I started doing knitwear. April asked me to make a nine look collection and I had seven weeks until the show. I had never made a full garment before, ever, but I did the nine looks and after the show I was named Emerging Designer of Savannah Fashion Week; that was two years ago. Then the next year I was named the featured designer. That’s when local stores started asking me for products that they could sell. At first I didn’t know what to make, but then I started making oxford tees. Then the tees took off, and SCAD students started picking them up and making lookbooks and fashion films featuring them. Ever since then, I have been making wearable clothes and launching Troy Allen, without really needing to launch Troy Allen.
TA: Phoebe Philo. I think I’m dressed like her right now.
AR: What is your biggest inspiration right now? TA: Color palettes. People ask me all the time “Where do you draw your inspiration from?” thinking that I’m gonna pull out some elaborate mood board, when really my mood board consists of colors. I look at colors from yarn stores. I don’t really read a lot of fashion magazines, rather, I look at lifestyle magazines for inspiration.
AR: NY or LA? TA: I would want to live and start my offices in LA, but I would want to continue visiting NY constantly. I’m from Savannah, and beach towns- I can’t give that up completely. AR: Where do the three stripes in your most recent deigns come from? TA: I don’t really tell people this, but, it represents the Holy Trinity. The Father, Son and Holy Ghost. I went to a private baptist school and I was kicked out of the school for being gay. Even though I’m not religious I still believe in the Holy Trinity. Every time before I perform or a runway show happens I always thank the Lord. The Trinity always comes out in my designs even if you don’t notice. AR: What can we expect to see in your future collections? TA: Spring/Summer ’16 is based off of the belief in Indigo children. That essentially is parents giving their child an excuse for why they are super creative, or why they disrespect authority so much. Basically me in high school. I wasn’t really supported in high school for having my own brand, so I doubled up on classes and got out a year and a half early. If you’re going to hold me back, you just have to know that I’m going to find new ways to get around that.
A MISSGUIDED RIDE THIS SPREAD: PULLOVER LOEWE VEST DIOR HOMME JEANS NUDIE SHOES ADIDAS ORIGINALS STAN SMITH 57 VMAN
WELCOME TO VMAN’S MOST ECCENTRIC EDIT OF ACCESSORIES.WE BRING TO YOU THE
MAN-BAG
WHICH
INCORPORATES
POPS OF BRIGHTS FOR FALL, SOMETHING OF THE UNORDINARY. SATCHELS WITH EMBOSSED SURFACES MAKE A COMEBACK, AS SEEN IN RYAN EICKHOFF’S “SMOKE ME” BAG. EXOTIC SKINS REPLACE THE DURABLE AND
OBVIOUS
FINE
LEATHERS
AND
SUEDES WHICH HANDBAGS ARE USUALLY CRAFTED WITH. FOR FALL 2015, MEN’S ACCESSORIES HAVE NO RESERVES WHEN IT COMES TO TEXTURES AND COLORS.
JAKE WEARS SWEATER KENZO SHIRT T BY ALEXANDER WANG JEANS SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE SHOES NIKE AIR MAX BAG RYAN EICKHOFF
TANNER WEARS SHIRT VINTAGE WILSON PANTS BOTTEGA VENETA SHOES SUPRAS WATCH NIXON
JAKE WEARS SHIRT ADIDAS ORIGINALS FLANNEL ACNE STUDIOS BOMBER JACKET LANVIN JOGGERS BOTTEGA VENETA SHOES BELSTAFF
“EXPERIMENTATION OF THE ROAD LED ME TO THE CREATION OF ECCENTRIC PIECES” -RYAN EICKHOFF
TANNER WEARS SWEATSHIRT OAK NYC JOGGERS YOHJI YAMAMOTO BEANIE MARTINE AND JUAN SHOES NIKES JAKE WEARS SWEATSHIRT OAK NYC JOGGERS YOHJI YAMAMOTO BEANIE MARTINE AND JUAN SHOES NIKES
M E E T T H E N E X T G E N PHOTOGRAPHY FRANCISCO GONZALEZ 73 VMAN
Aidan Toohey Aidan is a Fashion Marketing & Management student. SWEATER TODD SNYDER JEANS VALENTINO
Michael Magliochetti Michael is an Accessory Design student. SWEATER HUGO JEANS FRAME X INEZ & VINOODH
terry aahn Terry is a Fashion Design student. CLOTHING LEMAIRE
spencer humphries Spencer is a Motion Media student. SWEATER BURBERRY PROSUM JEANS ROBERT GELLER
Lawrence Murray Lawrence is a Film student. SWEATER BRUNELLO CUCINELLI JEANS DIESEL
MORNING AFTER
T H E
79 VMAN
TO BE SEEN WITH A MORE YOUTHFUL AND OPEN MINDSET, VMAN BRINGS YOU THE MORNING AFTER. THE NEW GENERATION OF CONSUMERS HAS WELL ESTABLISHED A LIFESTYLE OF SEXUAL AMBIGUITY BETWEEN WOMEN AND MEN. JUVENILLE TRANSGRESSION HAS BECOME A RESULT FROM THE REBELLIOUS ACTS OF THE NORM. NO ONE WANTS TO BE NORMAL, SO BE DIFFERENT. PHOTOGRAPHY MADELEINE M. IVEY TEXT ASHLEY ROSALES
ALEXANDRA WEARS PANTS RAF SIMONS
JAKE WEARS BLAZER PAUL SMITH SHIRT RICK OWENS JEANS SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE BOOTS DIOR HOMME
BRIAN WEARS SHIRT YOHJI YAMAMOTO PANTS ALLSAINTS SOCKS HOOD BY AIR SHOES GIVENCHY
OPPOSITE PAGE: BRIAN WEARS SHIRT T BY ALEXANDER WANG PANTS VETEMENTS SHOES GIVENCHY
ALEXANDRA WEARS JUMPSUIT LOUIS VUITTON SHIRT DSQUARED2 BOOTS CHLOÈ
ALEXANDRA WEARS SHIRT MODEL’S OWN SHORTS ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
BRIAN WEARS CLOTHING CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
95 VMAN • vision