Deciphering Vintage Knitting Patterns

There are numerous challenges involved in replicating vintage knitting patterns. In this article, we take the main components of a ‘modern day’ knitting pattern and note what to expect from patterns of different periods.

Materials:

In Victorian times, Berlin wool was very common in Europe, Great Britain, and North America. It was named after ‘Berlin work,’ a form of needlepoint and it is variously cited as “single,” “double,” and “four strand.” Other types of yarn cited in patterns of the Victorian period include Andalusian, Pyrenees, and fleecy. Weldon’s books also mention Scotch fingering, German fingering, Beehive, and Zephyr wools. As manufacturers created new yarns, they gave them unique names like Molana, Canadiana, Scope, or Misty. A hundred years from now these names will be as mysterious to knitters as Andalusian and Berlin are to 21st century knitters. Over time, terms to describe the thickness of yarn were developed. The first, based on reading the Weldon’s books, was ‘fingering.’ Others include double knitting, sport, worsted, and bulky. In Australia, a system was created that describes yarn thickness by number of plies. Thin yarns have a low ply number and thick yarns have a high ply number: three ply is fingering or sock weight, eight ply is double knitting weight, and so on. From the late 1800s onward, knitting needle sizes were given, however, anyone re-creating patterns from this era should be aware that several different needle sizing systems were in use. The same holds true today; there are different needle sizing systems in Japan, the United States, and Europe. Before the adoption of the metric system by Canada and Great Britain, these countries used a needle sizing system which was based on British standard wire gauge measurements. The advantage of the metric system is that needles can easily be measured with any caliper or micrometer. Regardless, patterns that give any needle sizes guide the knitter to a starting point for sampling. It is important to remember that needle sizes should be considered a recommendation in any knitting pattern: it is more important to achieve the tension than it is to use the prescribed size of needle.

Measurements:

Measurements were seldom given in Victorian era patterns. Often, the best the reader can hope for is a reference in the title to ‘child’s,’ ‘gentleman’s,’ or ‘ladies.’ Remember that Victorian ladies were more petite than 21st century women. When I made my re-enactment ball gown from a scale diagram from a period clothing book I had to add one inch to each side of each pattern piece – a full four inches in circumference to bust, waist and hips, to size it to ladies’ 12! Knitting patterns for ladies’ garments will be similarly sized. Mid-twentieth century patterns routinely give measurements; however, it is sometimes unclear whether the measurements are for the garment’s finished size or the wearer’s actual body measurement. Some patterns state “To fit an 18 inch chest,” which implies that the finished garment size will be larger to allow for ease. The garment’s finished size can be calculated by dividing the total number of stitches for the front and back pieces by the number of stitches per inch, as given by the pattern or as taken from the tension swatch. Sometimes garment length is indicated. Some patterns may also include sleeve measurements.

by Cynthia MacDougall

Tension:

Tension was rarely given in Victorianera patterns. Tension usually appears in patterns of the mid-twentieth century. Some patterns list only the stitch tension; others give stitch and row tension.

Pattern:

This section can be the greatest cause of frustration for the reader. Several terms were sometimes used for the same instruction within a pattern. In addition, abbreviations may have changed over time and can be difficult to decipher, particularly in older patterns. Newer books usually list abbreviations somewhere in the publication. A bit of basic reasoning may be required to decode vintage patterns. For example, I found the abbreviations “Tf” and “Th o” in two vintage patterns. When I saw that each was usually accompanied by a decrease, I deduced that the first meant “thread forward,” and the second “thread over.” Canadian Guild of Knitters’ office receives several inquiries annually regarding the terms “yarn over,” “yarn forward,” and “yarn round needle.” In most instances, yarn over and yarn forward are interchangeable. Yarn round needle is usually cited when a yarn over is to be worked on a purl row, because the yarn travels around the entire circumference of the needle before working the next stitch. The pattern section usually gives some guidance as to the order in which the garment pieces should be knitted. Some even highlight areas that need attention with italics, for example, the back or front of a garment may note Shape Armhole at the top of the main part of the body.

Patterns often use symbols. Asterisks were used to denote pattern repeats as early as 1870. Other symbols may include a plus sign or cross, and a number, or pound symbol. Picture/ Schematic: Prior to the common use of photography, pictorial representations were not always given with a pattern. Diagrams were carved into wood blocks or metal plates, and, at times, the engraver took some liberties with the design. I once found a lace edging that was shown with impossible-to-knit flowers in it. As photography gained in popularity after the American Civil War, photographs began to appear in all forms of paper publications, including knitting patterns. Schematics, like charts, are a very recent innovation in pattern writing. Vogue Knitting was one of the first magazines to use schematics in their patterns. Patience and perseverance are key when trying to unlock the mystery of vintage knitting patterns. Knitters who don’t want the challenge of working from vintage patterns can watch for updated versions of vintage patterns. Authors such as Jean Sowerby, Nancy Bush, Gladys Amedro, Rae Compton, and Sharon Miller have written books that take vintage patterns from their original state into today’s knitting language. Still, it is extremely interesting to read reproductions or original versions of vintage knitting patterns to study both the fashion and writing styles of the different eras. z Sources: Treasures in Needlework: First Published in 1870, Mrs. Warren and Mrs. Pullman, Berkley Publishing, 1976 A Facsimile Edition of Weldon’s Practical Needlework, Volume 1, Interweave Press, 1999 Lux Knitting Book, 1939 edition, ed. By Vivian Tait, Lever Brothers Limited, 1939 Lady Galt Baby Talk, Norma Gordon, Dobbie Industries Limited, 1968 Nursery Styles for 3 to 12 months by Beehive, Patons & Baldwins (Canada) Limited, c. 1978 The Art of Knitting 1892, Piper Press, 2003 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitting_needle