Summer 2016 Issue 01
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INTERIORS
A kitchen that works - Home Décor tips and techniques
IRELAND 2016
Uniformity Exhibition Women of 1916 - Centenary Mise Éire
FASHION
Artist and costumier Tina Cassati - Summer collections 2016
TRAVEL
Sub-Antarctic adventures - Athens Authentic Marathon
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arts / culture
Tina Cassati L
ife is full of surprises and sometimes unexpectedly we may discover an interesting book, a new friend or an artist’s work that will enrich our lives. Such an experience can be as beneficial to our existence as sunshine is to flowers. Getting acquainted with the work of Tina Cassati can transport you into a magical world of fantasy and escapism from the realities of everyday life. Her creations may be fairytale-like in appearance but this is an artist who also manages to make strong statements in her work by combining materials, methods, concepts, and subjects that challenge traditional boundaries in a fusion of philosophy and symbolism. Her artwork, created with traditional themes and modern techniques, brings us to a place filled with captivating fantasy, like with Alice in Wonderland, where nature and pure delight will feed our creative souls.
‘For me it is very important to have an enthusiasm and love for your work, to have the courage to live life with your own beliefs and visions and not to be influenced by what others think of you’
Artist and costumier, Tina Cassati talks to Tatsiana Coquerel about fantasies and fashion, influences and inspirations and her dream project ‘Giardino di Arte’ images tina cassati
Which contemporary artist or designer in your opinion best represents the combination of fashion and art? Isabelle de Borchgrave. She is a Belgian artist who creates exquisite sculptures and paper replicas of historical fashion. Her work is of a very high standard and a great example of combining fashion and art. Would it be right to say that art, for you, is like a rainbow that makes you smile, even when your soul is sad? You could say that. Art has many facets and it can certainly bring joy. For you, what makes life beautiful? For me, life is beautiful when I am alone and surrounded by nature and I can sense the wind caressing the leaves on the trees or when I get to enjoy observing the sea, feeling myself being carried away from the worries of life. For me, life for me is beautiful when I lay on the grass admiring the beauty in flowers and insects and so I like to use this inspiration to sketch and create my costume designs. Life is beautiful when I have the freedom to enjoy the simple things that take
away the monotony of everyday life and I can escape to find the tranquillity and inspiration to allow me to think and create. Nature is a great inspiration for you. Do you travel a lot to discover different sources of inspiration? To find inspiration you do not need to travel a lot or go very far. For me it is impossible to live a single day without inspiration. You need only to open your eyes and absorb things around you with a sense of joy and curiosity. I like to discover new things around me in everyday life, literature, exhibitions, museums, historical buildings and so on. There are so many sources of inspiration, even one lifetime is not enough to discover and experience all of them but for me, one of the most extraordinary influences will be always nature. Are you more attracted to urban or rural settings? There are so many places that I am drawn to, it’s difficult to choose. I love the sea but also love historical places and buildings. What is your dream project? I have been working on my dream project now for about two years. I can only say that it involves a new direction in my art anthology summer 2016 21
and is very different to my other projects. It is more about objects of art and installations. I would also like to focus on painting with oils in the near future, but one thing at a time. To create a piece of art you need a lot of time and passion.
‘Over and over again, I am amazed by women from the past whose strength still influences us today’
Do you think your work is enjoyed by both men and women? Based on the interest and feedback, I can say, that both men and women enjoy it. Can you tell us about your latest project ‘Giardino di Arte’? I have worked on the project ‘Giardino di Arte’ (‘Garden of Art’) from 2012 to 2015. This time was a turning point in my career when I was experimenting a lot with costume design, photography, mixed media and collage. The project was influenced by a tragic event in my life. My son died a few years ago and this project is dedicated to him. It has helped me to deal with my grief and to learn to live with the loss. This expe22 s u m m e r 2016 a n t h o lo g y
rience changed my view on many things in life and on my vision of art. This year I have started working on the second part of this project ‘Giardino Segreto’ (‘Secret Garden’). I have written the story and it will be visually interpreted in my costume designs.
Your work is inspired by Elizabethan costumes. If you had lived in the Elizabethan era, what direction do you think your work would have taken? It is very difficult to say. Women from this era had a very tough life. Over and over again, I am amazed by women from the past whose strength still influences us today. I am also fascinated by the fashion and craftsmanship from this period. What do you think you need to be successful as an artist in 21th century? This depends on what success means to the individual person. For one person success means earning lots of money, others place importance on virtual success
such as just achieving numbers of ‘followers’ and ’likes’ and others are greedy for commissions and contracts. Each artist has to be answerable to themselves as to what makes them happy or what success means to them. For me it is very important to have an enthusiasm and love for your work, to have the courage to live life with your own beliefs and visions and not to be influenced by what others think of you. It is also important to be true to yourself but also remain open to new things in life and to find satisfaction in what you are doing and at the same time take responsibility for your art. If you can make yourself and others happy, then your work is a success. What is your motto in life? Live in harmony with nature. http://www.tinacassati.com http://tinacassati.blogspot.com
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Tina Cassati
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Sub-Antarctic A A visit to some of the most remote islands on earth words a nd pictures patrick jordan
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n a bright summer’s morning, a lone piper bids farewells to the crowd with a familiar Scottish tune in front of a large ship. Luggage is hauled onto the deck and is bundled away to the cabins. Relatives of those departing wave from the quayside and excited passengers wave back, ready for a journey into the unknown. In case you’re wondering, I’m not referring to 19th century Scotland and poverty-stricken families departing for America, never to see their relatives again. The place I’m talking about does have Scottish roots and was modeled on the historic city of Edinburgh, but is about as far from the Scottish Highlands as you could possibly get. The ship is departing from the town of Dunedin on
“One does not discover new lands without consenting to leave sight of the shore” André Gide
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New Zealand’s South East coast with its Russian crew and a local pilot. Welcome aboard the Spirit of Enderby. A former Russian Government research vessel, it is fully ice strengthened and boasts a bar, library, lecture theatre and even a sauna. As the ship is piloted out of the majestic Dunedin Harbour, the fifty passengers enjoy the view from the deck and get to know each other, commenting on birds while binoculars and cameras point eagerly towards the skies. Passengers come from all over the world with people representing Australia, Europe, USA and of course New Zealand. Our expedition leader for the next two weeks, Rodney Russ, reports over the tannoy that a pod of dolphins are breaching the water close to the ship and which
10 TOXIC
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Widely used as a preservative and antimicrobial chemical in consumer products as well as cosmetics, to limit the growth of bacteria and mould. WHERE FOUND: Antibacterial soaps, deodorants, toothpastes, cleansers, and hand sanitisers. WHY TO AVOID: The chemical, which is classified as a pesticide, can affect the body’s hormone systems, especially thyroid hormones. Widespread use may also contribute to bacterial resistance to antimicrobial agents and making bacteria antibiotic-resistant.
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Phthalates
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Hazardous chemicals to avoid in cosmetic products and the reasons why words edel cassidy
PARABENS
Triclosan
Preservatives used in a wide variety of cosmetics to prevent the growth of microbes. WHERE FOUND: Moisturisers, foundations, hair care products, and shaving creams. They are also used as fragrance ingredients, but consumers won’t find that listed on the label. Fragrance recipes are considered trade secrets, so manufacturers are not required to list the ingredients in a fragrance. Labels must contain the word ‘fragrance’ but not the details as to what that fragrance contains. Watch out for any ingredient ending in paraben. WHY TO AVOID: Parabens are suspected of interfering with hormone function and can mimic estrogen. They can interfere with male and female reproductive functions. In addition, studies indicate that methylparaben applied on the skin reacts with UVB leading to increased skin aging and DNA damage.
STNTHETIC FRAGRANCE AND PARFUM
Used to produce a pleasant scent, the term ‘fragrance’ or ‘parfum’ on a cosmetic ingredients list usually hides a complex mixture 70 s u m m e r 2016 a n t h o lo g y
of dozens of undisclosed chemicals. WHERE FOUND: In addition to being used in perfumes, colognes and deodorants, they are also included in nearly all cosmetic and personal care products, even in some products marketed as ‘unscented’. WHY TO AVOID: Studies show that fragrance mixes are associated with allergies, dermatitis, respiratory distress and potential effects on the reproductive system and some are linked to cancer and neurotoxicity.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Sometimes referred to as SLS, it is used in cosmetics as a detergent and to make products bubble and foam. WHERE FOUND: It is common in shampoos, shower gels and facial cleansers, mascara and acne treatment. WHY TO AVOID: It is known to be a skin, lung, and eye irritant and can have a lasting effect on the epidermis of the skin by damaging the hair follicles. A major concern about SLS is its potential to interact and combine with other chemicals to form nitrosamines which is a carcinogen.
A group of chemicals used in hundreds of products to increase the flexibility and softness of plastics. WHERE FOUND: The main phthalates in cosmetics and personal care products are dibutyl phthalate in nail polish, diethyl phthalate in perfumes and lotions, and dimethyl phthalate in hair spray WHY TO AVOID: They are known to be endocrine disruptors and have been linked to increased risk of breast cancer, early breast development in girls, and reproductive birth defects in males and females. Unfortunately, it is not disclosed on every product as it is added to fragrances and therefore as part of the ‘secret formula’ is not listed.
Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives Chemical compounds that slowly release formaldehyde and are often used as an antimicrobial preservative in cosmetics. WHERE FOUND: Nail polish, nail glue, eyelash glue, hair gel, hair-smoothing products, baby shampoo, body soap, body wash and colour cosmetics. Look out for Formaldehyde, quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, polyoxymethylene urea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bromopol) and glyoxal. WHY TO AVOID: These ingredients are a concern because they slowly and continuously release small amounts of formaldehyde that can be inhaled, which the International Agency for Research on Cancer is classified as a known human carcinogen.
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PEG compounds
Not referring to the cute little gizmos used for hanging out your clothes, but to PEG as in polyethylene glycol which is a polyether compound. WHERE FOUND: The PEG family of synthetic chemicals function in cosmetic formulations as cleansers, emulsifiers and skin conditioners. WHY TO AVOID: Carcinogenic contaminants are the primary concern, but there is also evidence of genotoxicity and if used on broken skin can cause irritation and systemic toxicity. Also, PEG functions as a “penetration enhancer,” increasing the permeability of the skin to allow greater absorption of the product but this unfortunately includes the absorption of harmful ingredients.
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LEAD / HEAVY METALS Some metals play important roles in normal functions of the body. For instance, iron is necessary to enrich the blood with oxygen. However, heavy metals such as lead, mercury, cadmium, arsenic and nickel do not have normal physical functions in the body and they may have serious negative effects. WHERE FOUND: The main culprits are lipstick, lip gloss and mascara. It is also found in other colour make-up products
beaut y
including foundation, blush, eye pencil and eye shadow and sunscreens and whitening toothpaste. WHY TO AVOID: Lead is a proven neurotoxin, linked to learning, language and behavioural problems. It has also been linked to miscarriage, reduced fertility in men and women, and delays in puberty onset in girls.
animal and human placenta is about as wacky as it gets. Apparently, it contains especially high levels of proteins and enzymes including alkaline phosphatase and collagen - a substance widely used to stimulate skin growth and in some cosmetics to combat wrinkles. WHERE FOUND: In rejuvenating creams to restore and maintain the strength and thickness of ageing skin which presumably keeps it soft as that of a baby’s. It is also used in shampoos and conditioners to strengthen hair. WHY TO AVOID: Studies show that these hormone-altered products are linked to endocrine disruption such as precocious puberty and early sexual maturation, and a risk of breast cancer. Even though, most manufacturers that add this very odd ingredient to their cosmetics only use minimal amounts I, for one, will not be putting it on my wish list anytime soon.
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An organic compound that belongs to a class of chemicals called salicylates, which prevent direct skin exposure to the sun’s harmful rays by absorbing ultraviolet light. WHERE FOUND: Sunscreen and skin care products with sun protection WHY TO AVOID: Can impact the body’s hormones in particular estrogens. It may also irritate and worsen certain skin conditions and skin diseases such as folliculitis, eczema, acne, and psoriasis.
Placental extract:
Every now and then, beautifiers start bizarre new trends that promise to cure all your skin care dilemmas. The use of
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travel
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HOUSE of COOLMORE
Specialising in Pure Handcrafted Luxury
House Of Coolmore Limited, Raheens, Carrigaline, Co Cork Tel: 021-4378572, Fax: 021-4378734 Email: info@houseofcoolmore.ie www.houseofcoolmore.ie 10 s p r i n g 2016 a n t ho lo gy