WINTER 2018 #09 WINTER 2018 #09
€4.75 £3.35
€4.75 £3.35
FASHION The Ethereal Designs of FASHION Michael Cinco • Christian The Ethereal Designs of Dior: Designer of Dreams Michael Cinco • Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams
TRAVEL Morocco: The Magic TRAVEL of Fez • Russia: A Stroll Morocco: The Magic Down Nevsky Prospekt of Fez • Russia: A Stroll Down Nevsky Prospekt
ARTS Limerick Artist: ARTS John Shinnors • Limerick Artist: Cubism Retrospective John Shinnors • Cubism Retrospective
LIFESTYLE The Role of an Interior LIFESTYLE Designer • Top Trends The Role of an Interior in Flooring Design Designer • Top Trends in Flooring Design
Winter 2018 Issue 09
Winter 2018 Issue 09 covers.indd 15
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Welcome to Anthology Winter Issue 2018
W
e tend to think of winter as a season of rest, hibernation and quiet, but it’s also a time of year that inspires ceremonies and rituals in many cultures. The cold months are clearly a popular time for parties and celebrations of all sorts. While some are filled with solemn tradition, others focus on merrymaking. Whether it’s Hanukkah, Christmas, New Year’s, Valentine’s Day, or Mardi Gras, people like to partake in some form of festivity to lift the spirits over the dark, cold winter months. A big part of these celebrations is the tradition of gift-giving and sharing, and there are few greater joys in life than sharing a delicious dinner with family and friends. Our wholesome winter dinner menu by Neven Maguire has the ideal combination of recipes for winter comfort and is a menu that will wow your guests. One of the greatest gifts, in my opinion, is the opportunity to explore our beauti-
ANTHOLOGY PUBLISHING Limerick, Ireland EDITOR Edel Cassidy ART EDITOR Ros Woodham DESIGNER Lynne Clark COPY-EDITOR Averill Buchanan PROOFREADER Victoria Woodside CONTRIBUTORS Orna O’Reilly Weber, Jeannie Croucher, Louise Higgins, Dolores O’Donoghue, Tom Weber, Neven Maguire ADVERTISING Mary Hayes, Gail Fean advertising@anthology-magazine.com
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ful, intriguing planet. In this issue, our travel features take you to the magical city of Fez in Morocco and Nevsky Prospekt in St Petersburg, Russia’s most famous street. For those of you who like to indulge your love of art, we take you to the Pompidou Centre in Paris where a major retrospective on Cubism is taking place. IMMA, the Irish Museum of Modern Art in Dublin, is currently exhibiting the work of Mary Swanzy, one of the first Irish women to paint in the Cubist style. We also feature the work of Limerick artist John Shinnors, who has recently launched a book. Appropriately, as New Year is a time of rebirth and rejuvenation, we offer some tips on how to focus to help you reach your full potential in life. Whatever way you decide to celebrate the festivities this winter, enjoy this magical season! Edel edel@anthology-magazine.com
ON THE COVER Dubai-based Filipino Michael Cinco is one of the world’s most sought-after fashion designers. His grand, luxurious designs have been worn by Hollywood A-listers like Beyoncé, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Lopez, Kylie Minogue and Christina Aguilera, to name but a few (p. 40).
SUBMISSIONS Anthology welcomes submissions – ideas, musings or long-form narrative – and is keen to publish serious reportage. All we ask is that the pieces are previously unpublished. Pitches to: info@anthology-magazine.com PHOTOGRAPHY From styled fashion shoots and portraiture to architecture, high-quality photography is what Anthology aims to bring to every issue. We are happy to view work. Link or PDF to: info@anthology-magazine.com SUBSCRIPTIONS Anthology is a quarterly publication with a focus on beautiful features and imagery from Ireland and around the world. Subscribe to avail of delivery direct to your door. Email: info@anthology-magazine.com Full details on p. 64. ISSN: 2009-9150 Printed by Warners Midlands plc Distributed by EMNews The publisher accepts no responsibility for any of the views expressed or claims made by contributors or advertisers. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy of information contained in Anthology, we do not accept responsibility for any errors or matters arising from same. No part of this publication may be used or reproduced without written permission from the publishers.
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20
contents 14 TRAVEL The Magic of Fez 20 TRAVEL A Stroll Down Nevsky Prospekt 26 ART Cubism: A Major Retrospective
26
36 ART Mary Swanzy: Modern Irish Master 40 PORTRAIT Michael Cinco 48 INTERIORS Do I Really Need an Interior Designer? 58 INTERIORS Floor Plans 40
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66
66
ART John Shinnors: Art of Now
71
GIFT GUIDE The Gift of Giving
78
FASHION Haute Couture Winter 2018
86
LIFESTYLE The Art of Focus
90
FOOD Winter Dinner Menu
92
BEAUTY A Gift of Scent
94
EXHIBITION Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams
78 92
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The Magic of
F
FEZ
ez is an enchanting city that is mysterious and mystical, deeply historical and full of heritage. It is home to the
world’s oldest degree-awarding university, the most extensive and best conserved an-
Morocco’s cultural and spiritual centre is steeped in tradition and a city like no other words edel cassidy photos ros woodham
cient town of the Arab-Muslim world, and the largest and most enduring medieval Islamic settlement. It is one of the great artisanal centres of the world, where master craftworkers continue to ply ancient skills, making ceramics and silks the way their forefathers have done for generations. The city has become a popular shortbreak destination from Europe and is served with regular flights from most capital cities. With just three days to spend in Fez, it was important to plan an itinerary in advance and to choose accommodation that was well located. We decided to book the Palais Faraj Suites and Spa, a former Arab-Moorish palace set on a hilltop overlooking the historic old medina, with a spectacular view of Fez and within walking distance of all the main attractions. On arrival, once we’d been shown to our beautifully decorated, spacious suite, we were offered complimentary sweet mint tea, a traditional Moroccan gesture of welcome. That night we decided to dine in the hotel restaurant, which is located on the top floor of the palace. It has stunning rooftop views across Fez and offers two menus, one featuring traditional Moroccan cuisine and the other, European dishes. The staff were able to give expert culinary advice about the local food and I decided to try a tagine, the national dish of Morocco, a slow-cooked stew named
clockwise from top: Rooftop terraces offer incredible views of the old medina; A spice merchant at
his stall in the old medina; The Grande Porte Bab Boujeloud, also known as ‘The Blue Gate of Fes.’
opposite: Built in the 11th century, Chouara Tannery is the largest tannery in the city.
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travel
‘Leather shops line the balconies overlooking the ancient stone vats that overflow with skins and dyes’
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clockwise from left: Large walls stretch 8km around the old city; The beautifully decorated and spacious suite at Palais Faraj; Breakfast at Palais Faraj with a spectacular view of the historic old medina.
after the distinctive clay pot with a conical
and others fire the work. The most fasci-
lid in which the dish is prepared. There’s a
nating process to watch was the zellige tile
lounge bar next to the restaurant where
technique. The procedure involves cutting
we relaxed after dinner, sipping cocktails in
and assembling tiny fragments of terra-
comfy armchairs and watching the sun set
cotta cut into shapes – diamonds, squares,
over the medina while the last cry of the
triangles, stars and crosses – that are
muezzin called the faithful to prayer.
precisely bevelled, requiring a steady hand and delicate precision. The pieces are then
The city of Fez consists of Fes el-Bali
assembled one by one according to shape
(also known as the Medina of Fez), the
and colour, fitting together like a puzzle to
original city founded in the late eighth and early ninth centuries, and the smaller Fes
times, which makes these tanneries ab-
form an intricate pattern for a table-top
el-Jdid, founded on higher ground to the
solutely fascinating to visit. Leather shops
or fountain backdrop. The work is done
west in the thirteenth century. Then there
line the balconies overlooking the ancient
without seeing the colours or following
is Ville Nouvelle (new city) which was con-
stone vats that overflow with skins and
an outline because the finished piece is
structed during the French colonial era.
dyes in a myriad of eye-popping colours.
assembled upside down. The makers are
A shop owner presented us with sprigs of
therefore dependent on their experience,
list was to visit the local ateliers and arti-
fresh mint to help overcome the raw, nox-
skill and concentration to create the pat-
sans and, knowing that it’s easy to get lost
ious odour as the age-old process involves
tern. Once everything is in place, concrete
in Fez, we asked the hotel staff to arrange
a variety of putrid ingredients. The dyes
or resin is poured over the back of the
a guide. We followed our guide through
are all natural vegetable pigments such as
piece and it is left to harden.
the maze-like alleyways of the medina and
poppy flowers for red, indigo leaves for
our first stop was at one of Fez’s famed
blue, mint for green and saffron for yellow.
Like most visitors to the city, top of our
tanneries. Here, the hides of camels, cows,
Next stop was a ceramic and mosaic
Moroccan carpets have long been popular throughout the world, and the final part of our guided tour was to a gallery-style
goats and sheep are processed and made
workshop where we watched teams of
space with vast displays of rugs and
into high-quality bags, coats, shoes and
artisans at work, each specialising in a par-
carpets. Our guide explained the weaving
slippers. This is all achieved manually, with-
ticular task. Some prepare the clay while
process while a weaver demonstrated on
out the need for modern machinery. The
others throw pieces by hand. Another
a loom. He was extremely knowledgeable
process has barely changed since medieval
team painstakingly hand-paints each piece
about the history of the rugs and the var-
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ious tribes who create them. The designs
The medina is also home to the Universi-
are packed with symbolism and vary
ty of al-Qarawiyyin, the oldest existing
greatly, depending on the locale where
educational institution in the world,
they are woven. The brilliant colours from
according to UNESCO and Guinness World
natural dyes also carry their own form of
Records. Surprisingly, it was founded by a
symbolism. In Berber culture, red symbol-
woman, Fatima al-Fihri, in 859 and became
ises strength and protection, blue is for
one of the leading spiritual and educational
wisdom, yellow represents eternity, and
centres of the old Muslim world.
green stands for peace. Anyone intending
The second day of our visit fell on a
to purchase a rug or carpet will be spoilt
Friday, a sacred day for Muslims when they
for choice in design, colour and size. They
gather for prayer and worship. Most of
come in a wide range of prices, depending
the souks and cafes in the medina were
on the quality of craftsmanship – and the
closed, so we took the opportunity to
buyer’s negotiation skills!
relax and have some quality downtime at
clockwise from left: The city’s maze of narrow streets lead to bustling markets and bazaars; Morocco is known for its handwoven carpets and rugs; Handmade leather bags on display; Donkeys and mules are commonly used for transportation in the medina.
‘We were drawn back to the charm of the medina with its mysterious winding alleyways’
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the hotel spa. I opted for a facial, followed
mills and is ideal for a relaxing stroll.
town in existence and, now, a UNESCO World Heritage site, Fes el-Bali is the place
by a body massage where I was offered a
On our final day we were drawn back
choice of a tonic massage with verbena or
to the charm of the medina with its mys-
a relaxing massage with orange blossom.
terious winding alleyways crammed full of
Vendors selling all kinds of hand-made
I chose the orange blossom and it was a
stalls, tiny shops, mosques and an endless
products – everything from clothes and jew-
truly relaxing experience. I would highly
parade of people. The largest car-free
ellery to furniture and food – call out to pas-
recommend a visit to this spa, which is
urban area in the world, the oldest market
sers-by, trying to grab their attention. Men
open to non-residents. In the afternoon we made a quick visit to the ‘New City’, but for me it didn’t have the same appeal as the medina. For those who come to shop, there is the Borj Fez
where locals still live, shop, eat and pray.
clockwise from top: A coppersmith beats
metal into useable shapes; Doorway into the University of al-Qarawiyyin, the oldest operating higher educational institution in the world; A barber’s shop occupies a tiny space in a back street.
Mall with over eighty shops on three levels. The old Jewish quarter is interesting with its quaint narrow streets and the Ibn Danan, a restored synagogue that gives a truly unique glimpse of Jewish-style Moroccan architecture. The splendid gardens of Jnan Sbil offer an oasis filled with palm trees, fountains, water canals and wind-
‘Fes el-Bali is the place where locals still live, shop, eat and pray’
in djellabas (long robes with pointed hoods) deliver produce in donkey-drawn carts. To shop in Fez requires large doses of patience and haggling expertise but it would be a pity not to procure a small cultural souvenir. Luggage allowance may deter you from buying a Moroccan rug, although most shops will arrange shipping. Argan oil is sold everywhere in small sizes and is an ideal gift to bring home. The cultivation and harvesting of this oil is an old Moroccan tradition. It’s full of vitamin E and linoleic acid, and is said to have disinfectant, sun-protective and anti-inflammatory properties. For those who like to cook, Moroccan spices make great gifts and offer various medicinal benefits. The most popular spices and condiments are cumin, paprika, saffron and sea salt. And if it all gets too much for you, there are plenty of coffee shops and cafes where you can take a break from haggling, soak up the atmosphere and plan your next visit.
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The Church of the Spilled Blood, built on the spot where Emperor Alexander II was assassinated in 1881
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travel
St Petersburg:
Nevsky Prospekt A Stroll Down
This famous Russian street, a hub for shopping, nightlife and entertainment, is also lined with historic and picturesque buildings words and photos
orna o ’ reilly weber
E
ver since I read Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina many years ago, I’ve wanted to visit Russia. Russian literature has
always fascinated me, and novels such as Dostoyevsky’s Crime and Punishment and R. N. Morris’s St Petersburg Mystery Series have made me long to wander the romantically named Nevsky Prospekt. St Petersburg, a city of five million people, is full of the history of the Romanov dynasty. It was devastated by bombings, cold and hunger during the Second World War; two million people died during the 900-day Siege of Leningrad, as the city was then called. However, thanks to the determination and resilience of its inhabitants, the Nazis never managed to gain entry. Relatively new compared to other European cities, St Petersburg was established in 1703 by Tsar Peter the Great, the first emperor of Russia. Built on a marsh on the shores of the Baltic Sea, it is often referred to as the Venice of the North, although in reality it looks nothing at all like Venice; it has much more in common, visually, with Amsterdam, though French architectural style is much in evidence. Nevsky Prospekt is the famous main avenue in St Petersburg. It is named after the thirteenth-century prince, Alexander Nevsky, and was planned by Peter the Great in the early eighteenth century as the beginning of ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 21
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the road from St Petersburg to Moscow. The street runs through the heart of the historical centre of the city, so my husband and I felt that to walk its 4.5km length would be the best possible start to our trip. It would enable us to get a feel for the
‘The original building was bombed by the Nazis in 1941 and rebuilt in its present form in 1948’
beef stroganoff in the early eighteenth century because his employer’s teeth were bad and he needed his beef cut into small pieces and cooked until it was soft. The cook added mustard, sour cream and spices and beef stroganoff was born.
city and its inhabitants while sampling the Russian lifestyle up close and personal.
Count Pavel Stroganov’s chef invented
Neva, and cross it to see the famous
We crossed the Anichkov Bridge, origi-
Rostral Columns and walk back again.
nally a wooden structure that was rebuilt
Russian novels, so I fully expected to
We realised that we were about to walk
in stone in the 1840s and rebuilt again in
bump into poor, misguided Raskolnikov
about 10kms in all, but we were feeling
its present form in the early 1900s. The
hotly pursued by sleuth Porfiry Petrovich,
energetic and knew it was the best way
bridge is notable for the four statues, one
or Anna Karenina with her lover, the dash-
to see some of the stately palaces and
on each corner, called The Horse Tamers.
ing Count Vronsky.
imperial mansions along the route.
These represent the four stages of train-
Nevsky Prospekt is the setting for many
It was a warm, sunny June morning
As we walked past the Coffeeshop
and I found it difficult to imagine that
Company, a big Viennese coffee chain, we
we were just one hour’s flight from the
noted that this branch is situated beneath
Arctic Circle as we began our expedition.
the famous Palkin restaurant, which is
My first impression was of a wide avenue
upstairs. Palkin is one of the oldest res-
with tram-wires overhead, blue and white
taurants in St Petersburg and still a highly
buses and several seriously fast drivers.
recommended eatery.
Beginning at Vosstaniya Square,
A huge pink palace loomed on our
we decided to walk as far as the River
left – the Stroganov Palace. Apparently,
ing a horse and are meant to illustrate the struggle of man versus nature. Stopping to photograph an enterprising gentleman who was doing a brisk trade
clockwise from top left: The Coffeeshop
Company situated beneath the famous Palkin restaurant; An enterprising gentleman sells coffee from the back of his van; Kazan Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox Church dedicated to Our Lady of Kazan, one of the most venerated icons in Russia
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travel
selling coffee from the back of a van, we
was bombed by the Nazis in 1941 and
the Cathedral of St Basil in the heart of
found ourselves passing familiar food out-
rebuilt in its present form in 1948.
Moscow, and is in traditional Russian style.
lets such as Starbucks, Burger King and
Our first detour, after crossing the River
The outer walls still bear the scars from
Subway, which I thought looked slightly
Fontanka, was to a park where we were
World War II and the Siege of Leningrad.
surreal with their names in Russian. We
greeted by a statue of the great poet
We didn’t go inside as we expected to visit
spotted some fun coffee mugs, and did a
Pushkin. Behind him loomed the enor-
there later during our tour, but this was
double take at a lifelike replica of Freddie
mous Mikhailovsky Palace, which houses
not to be, so unfortunately we didn’t get
Mercury outside the Rock Pub.
the Russian Museum.
to see the fabulous collection of mosaic icons housed within.
The pale pink Beloselsky-Belozersky Pal-
Back on Nevsky Prospekt we took
ace belonged to the Princes Beloselsky and
another detour along the bank of the
was originally built in 1747, but rebuilt in a
Griboyedov Canal. Virtually swooning with
mired the facade of Kazan Russian Ortho-
more lavish style by widowed heiress Prin-
delight, we caught our first glimpse of the
dox Cathedral. In all, seven different religious
cess Elena Pavlovna Beloselskaya-Belozer-
Church of the Spilled Blood. This colourful
denominations are represented on Nevsky
skaya a hundred years later, in 1847. It was
church is built on the exact spot where
Prospekt, which is pretty extraordinary.
sold to a brother of Emperor Alexander III
Emperor Alexander II was assassinated
in 1884, when it was first painted pink.
in 1881 and is notable for its completely
to sample some local fare, we stopped at
different style of architecture from the
the Soviet Cafe, a basement eatery. It was
rest of St Petersburg. It was modelled on
homely and old-fashioned inside, adorned
Directly opposite the palace is the House of Letters. The original building
Returning to Nevsky Prospekt, we ad-
We decided to stop for lunch and, keen
clockwise from top left: Freddie
Mercury sculpture at the entrance to the Rock Pub; The Triumphal Arch at Palace Square; View of the Winter Palace and the River Neva; Statue of the ‘Horse Tamer’ on the Anichkov Bridge ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 23
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clockwise from above: Entrance
to the Soviet Cafe; The principal collections of the Russian Museum are located in the Mikhailovsky Palace; The Rostral Columns, dating back to 1810, are an iconic symbol of the city
with wood panelling, lace tablecloths and frilled lampshades, with lots of busy ornamentation and a big fifties fridge against the wall close to our table. This quaint style of decorating was evident in many of the restaurants we visited during our stay in St Petersburg. Arriving in Palace Square, the main gathering place in St Petersburg for almost three hundred years, the Winter Palace greeted us in all its splendid glory. One side of the square is taken up by the Winter Palace with its turquoise paintwork, white trim and gold decoration. This magnificent palace was originally built for Empress Elizabeth (daughter of Peter the Great) in 1754, but she died before she could move
‘The Neva is the main river intersecting St Petersburg, and it flows into the cold waters of the Baltic Sea’
Island, where all the tsars are buried. This fortress was the first building constructed in St Petersburg in 1703 and served as a prison for two hundred years. Finally, we arrived at the base of the 32m-high Rostral Columns which stand on a spit of land overlooking the river. They are decorated with sea creatures
in. Catherine II (Catherine the Great) lived there, as did later tsars. It now houses the
poleon. It weighs 600 tons and is made
and anchors, and on public holidays their
Hermitage Museum.
of one piece of granite.
gas-fired connectors are lit and huge
Opposite the Winter Palace is the
As we crossed the River Neva, we took
flames spurt from the top, which must be an incredible sight.
General Staff Building, which was built in
in our splendid surroundings. The Neva
the 1820s. It has a striking triumphal arch
is the main river intersecting St Peters-
Making our way back up Nevsky Pros-
surmounted by the Chariot of Glory being
burg, and it flows into the cold waters
pekt, now crowded with Saturday shoppers
pulled by six horses.
of the Baltic Sea. The river is busy with
and tall Russians out for a stroll, we felt we
hydrofoils and tourist boats zipping up
had just experienced a most interesting
column built to commemorate Alexan-
and down past the Winter Palace and
and rewarding day and looked forward to
der I’s victorious campaign against Na-
the Peter and Paul Fortress on Hare
exploring more of this magnificent city.
In the centre of the square is a huge
24 WINTER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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Cubism Cubism WORDS EDEL CASSIDY
The Pompidou Centre, Paris, stages a major retrospective on Cubism, the most influential movement in the history of modern art
C
ubism was one of the most innovative and influential visual art styles of the early twentieth century. The movement emerged in Paris between 1907 and 1914 as the collaborative creation of Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque, who had been strongly influenced by the work of the post-Impressionists Paul Cézanne and Paul Gauguin. These pioneers, who were soon joined by Fernand Léger and Juan Gris, reserved their groundbreaking experimental work for a small-scale gallery run by a young dealer, Daniel-Henry Kahnweiler, whose clients included many important international collectors. It was artists like Albert Gleizes, Jean Metzinger, Francis Picabia, Marcel Duchamp, and Robert and Sonia Delaunay, collectively known as the Salon Cubists, who established Cubism as an identifiable movement and introduced it
to the general public through their exhibitions in notable Paris salons between 1910 and 1913. Cubism is the first exposition devoted to the movement in France since 1953, and covers Cubism’s techniques, characteristics, pioneers and influences. Containing 300 works and documents, the exhibition is presented chronologically in fourteen sections and highlights the rich inventiveness and wide variety of the movement.
Juan Gris (1887–1927) Le Petit Déjeuner, octobre 1915 Oil and charcoal on canvas, 92 x 73 cm Centre Pompidou, Musée national d’art moderne, Paris © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI/ Philippe Migeat/Dist. RMN-GP This is a great example of Gris’ Cubist style. The subject may have been clichéd and predictable but the arrangement is revolutionary. Like Picasso and Braque during this time, he incorporated newsprint into his work.
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arts
+
culture
ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 27
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Not only did it introduce a geometric approach to forms and challenge classical representation, but its radical explorations and the creative drive of its members also paved the way for modern art. The starting point of Cubism was Picasso’s and Braque’s common interest in the later paintings of Cézanne. Cézanne was not interested in creating an illusion of depth and consequently abandoned the tradition of perspective drawing, the formula used since the early Renaissance to render three-dimensional objects on a two-dimensional surface. He felt that the illusion of perspective denied the fact that painting is a flat, two-dimensional expression. Cubist painters, in turn, moved away from the realistic modelling of figures and rejected the concept that art should copy nature. The Cubists also began exploring other
civilisations and cultures, especially African art, to counter Western traditions, which they thought were constricting and moribund. They were attracted to the simplified shapes and the lack of concern with realist depiction often found in primitive art, and incorporated this style into their own work. The Pompidou exhibition highlights Cubism’s momentous, multi-faceted development, going back to its primitive sources and the Cubists’ fascination with Gauguin and Cézanne. It also reflects the movement’s formal journey from its Cézannian beginnings to a hermetic, analytical stage (1910–1912), before it evolved towards a more synthetic version (1913–1917) with a return to representation and colour. The tragedy of the Great War (1914– 1918), which mobilised or exiled artists and their supporters, is retraced through
the works of artists who fought at the front, and the latter part of the exhibition shows the rebirth of survivors. By the end of the war communication between the artists had been disrupted and Cubism as an independent artistic movement was lost, although the style continued to be a major influence on modern art. The final phase of the exhibition demonstrates the movement’s impact on contemporary artists such as Henri Matisse, Piet Mondrian and Kazimir Malevich, who all paid tribute to the Cubist revolution. Cubism runs at the Pompidou Centre, Paris, until 25 February 2019 (www. centrepompidou.fr), and at Kunstmuseum, Basel, from 31 March to 5 August 2019 (kunstmuseumbasel.ch/en/exhibitions/2019/kosmoskubismus).
Paul Gauguin (1848–1903) Soyez mystérieuses, 1890 Bas-relief in polychrome linden wood, 73 x 95 x 5 cm Musée d’Orsay, Paris © RMN-Grand Palais (Musée d’Orsay)/ Tony Querrec Gauguin was a key participant during the late nineteenth century in a European cultural movement that is referred to as Primitivism. Early modern European artists had become fascinated with tribal art from Africa, the South Pacific and Indonesia, as well as prehistoric and very early European art, and European folk art. Picasso’s discovery of African tribal art and his admiration for the work of Gauguin was an important influence on his painting in general, and played a major role in leading him to Cubism. Gauguin’s childhood memories of Peru, a trip to Martinique, and the African art he
saw at the 1889 Universal Exposition in Paris stimulated his interest in ‘primitive’ civilisations and prompted him to apply the same spontaneity and vigour to his own work. This carving from a piece of lime wood would seem to represent the body of a Tahitian woman. In fact, the relief was carved before he first travelled to the South Pacific.
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Paul Cézanne (1839–1906) Portrait d’Ambroise Vollard, 1899 Oil on canvas, 101 x 81 cm Petit Palais, Musée des beaux-arts de la Ville de Paris, Paris © Petit Palais/Roger-Viollet ‘He is the father of us all,’ Picasso said of Cézanne, who was the first Western artist to explore the reduction of Western painting and, in doing so, led the way to abstract painting. Cézanne believed painting needed more structure, should be more analytical and should be treated through a more formal, abstract system of three forms: the cylinder, the sphere and the cone. This oil on canvas portrait is of Ambroise Vollard, one of the most important dealers in French contemporary art at the beginning of the twentieth century. Cézanne’s sitters were represented in a similar way to the bowls of fruit he painted – three-dimensional objects rigorously analysed until broken down into the brushstrokes that generated not a simulacrum but nevertheless a painting of striking authenticity. His use of flat planes clearly influenced Picasso’s portrait of Gertrude Stein. Eleven years later, Picasso also painted Vollard’s portrait.
Pablo Picasso (1881–1973) Portrait de Gertrude Stein, 1905–1906 Oil on canvas, 100 x 81.3 cm The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York © The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Dist RMN-Grand Palais/image of the MMA © Succession Picasso 2018 The famous writer and expatriate Gertrude Stein was among the first Americans to respond enthusiastically to European avant-garde art. She held weekly salons in her Paris apartment
populated by European and American artists and writers. For Picasso, Stein’s early patronage and friendship was critical to his success. He painted this portrait of her between 1905 and 1906. He reduces her body to simple masses, a foreshadowing of his adoption of Cubism. Her face has a planar quality that seems hard and mask-like, an effect heightened by the geometric treatment of the eyes, nose and mouth. The odd rendering of Stein’s features reflects the powerful influence of African and Iberian sculpture on Picasso’s work at this time.
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Georges Braque (1882–1963) Broc et violon, 1909–1910 Oil on canvas, 116.8 x 73.2 cm Kunstmuseum Basel, Bâle © Kunstmuseum Basel, photo Martin P. Bühler © ADAGP, Paris 2018 Here, Braque uses the Analytic Cubism approach to depict a violin, sheet music and artist’s palette. The objects are still recognisable in the painting but are fractured into multiple facets, as is the surrounding space with which they merge. Braque had initially been fascinated by Paul Cézanne’s works with geometric compositions and he started working on simplified forms and flattened spatial planes. Further inspired by his meeting with Picasso in 1907, during which they discovered a common interest in Cubist techniques, Braque abandoned a bright Fauve palette for muted colours. Picasso and Braque worked so closely together around this time that it became difficult to distinguish the work of one artist from the other.
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Pablo Picasso (1881–1973) Nature morte sur un piano, été 1911– printemps 1912 Oil on canvas, 50 x 130 cm Nationalgalerie, Museum Berggruen (SMB), Berlin Photo © BPK, Berlin, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Jens Ziehe © Succession Picasso 2018
Lettering, sometimes forming recognisable words or parts of words, was a frequent and conspicuous feature of Cubist paintings from the summer of 1911. Most scholars agree that it was Braque who first used letterforms in this way; the practice was almost immediately taken up by Picasso. Whereas Braque retained the
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meanings of words and thus their value as a means of communicating with the viewer, Picasso used fragments of words to evoke an idea. The word ‘CORT’ was an abbreviation for the name Alfred Cortot (a pianist). But it was also a witty riposte to Braque, who had used similar wordplay in Violin: ‘Mozart Kubelick’
Francis Picabia (1879–1953) La Procession, Séville, 1912 Oil on canvas, 121.9 x 121.9 cm National Gallery of Art, Washington © National Gallery of Art, Washington © ADAGP, Paris 2018 The scene represents a religious hillside procession that Picabia witnessed in Spain, with nuns in black habits and white headgear. Figures coalesce into a mass in the centre of the canvas. The title is boldly inscribed on the painting. Picabia belonged to the group of avant-garde French artists known as the Salon Cubists who lived and worked in Paris and its environs. They developed a distinctive Cubist style based on Picasso’s and Braque’s ideas with a unique twist. Compared to Picasso’s and Braque’s small, intimate works with the subdued palette of browns and greys, they painted largescale works in vibrant colours.
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Albert Gleizes (1881–1953) Portrait d’un médecin militaire, 1914 Huile sur toile, 119.8 x 95.1 cm Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York © The Solomon R.Guggenheim Foundation/Art Resource, NY/Dist. RMN-Grand Palais © ADAGP, Paris 2018
Like many of the Cubists, Gleizes was enlisted for military service during the First World War. An admirer of his work, his commanding officer, the regimental surgeon portrayed in this painting, made arrangements so that Gleizes could continue to paint while stationed at Toul. Gleizes had abandoned Cubism’s first analytic phase and strove to create a syn-
thetic art, one incorporating social values. In rejecting what he perceived as Picasso’s and Braque’s ‘Impressionism of form’, he embraced a style that attempted to capture the subject in its absolute order and truth. Here, his work is characterised by overlapping planes of brilliant colour and dynamic intersections of vertical, diagonal, horizontal and circular movements.
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Piet Mondrian (1872–1944) Composition no IV/Composition 6, 1914 Oil on canvas, 88 x 61 cm Collection Gemeentemuseum, La Haye, © Gemeentemuseum, La Haye/ Bridgeman Images When Mondrian visited an exhibition by Braque and Picasso in Amsterdam in 1911, he decided to go to live in Paris. His paintings immediately showed the influence of Cubist work and, while it had a powerful impact on him, he also worked on developing his own style, as he felt Cubism had its limitations. He kept somewhat within the boundaries of Cubism but began to develop an independent abstract style where he broke down his subject, in this case into interlocking black lines and planes of colour using a limited palette. His aim was to reduce visible reality to its absolute essence: a rhythmic arrangement of planes and colours, horizontals and verticals. The eventual result was his now world-famous style. This painting is typical of his 1914 work. Geometric divisions are used and the painting gravitates toward a central focus, leaving the bottom of the canvas almost untouched so that the forms above it almost seem to float. Mondrian’s Cubist period lasted from 1912 to 1917 but this work shows that he had already found his own, entirely individual, style.
Henri Laurens (1885–1954) Clown, 1915 Painted wood, 53 x 29 x 23 cm Moderna Museet, Stockholm © Moderna Museet/Stockholm © ADAGP, Paris 2018 Just as in painting, Cubist sculpture is rooted in Cézanne’s reduction of the imperfect forms of nature to simplified basic shapes. Laurens initially worked as a stonemason, learning the traditional
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techniques of carved stone. At the same time, he attended drawing classes and produced sculptures. His early work was strongly influenced by the work of Auguste Rodin. He met Georges Braque in 1911 and developed an interest in Cubism, but it was only in 1915 that he produced his first Cubist works. This composition, which drew inspiration from Picasso’s assemblages, consists of juxtaposed spheres, cones and cylinders and is considered one of his most intriguing works.
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Juan Gris (1887–1927) Le Violon, July 1916 Oil on plywood, 116.2 x 73.1 cm Kunstmuseum Basel-Sch. © Raoul La Roche Having studied mathematics, physics and mechanical drawing in his native Madrid, Gris moved to Paris in 1906 where he met Picasso and Braque and became involved in the Cubist movement. He built upon the foundations of early Cubism and steered the movement in new directions with the use of bright, harmonious colours in daring combinations. He also took a highly mathematical approach to the composition of his pictures. Every element of a painting was considered with classical precision: line, shape, tone, colour and pattern were carefully refined to create an interlocking arrangement. Still life was the most
popular of the Cubist themes as it allowed artists to use everyday objects whose forms were still recognisable after they had been simplified and stylised. Gris loved music and to paint musical instruments, which he believed were as defining to the musician as a paintbrush was to a painter. The painting is a display of overlapping and harmonising colours and shapes, which produces an impression of superimposed transparent objects. One of Gertrude Stein’s favourite artists, Gris was the only Cubist talented enough to make Picasso uncomfortable. While he clearly had enormous respect for Picasso, the older man may have felt threatened by the younger’s talents. But the career of Juan Gris was to be cut short. He developed serious lung and kidney problems from 1920 and died in 1927 from renal failure at the age of forty.
Georges Braque (1882–1963) La Musicienne, 1917–1918 Oil on canvas, 221.4 x 112.8 cm Kunstmuseum Basel, Bâle © Kunstmuseum Basel, photo Martin P. Bühler © ADAGP, Paris 2018 Picasso and Braque continued to work closely together until the beginning of World War I, when Braque enlisted with the French army. In 1915 he received a shrapnel wound to the head, lost consciousness for two days, suffered temporary blindness and, as a result, was convalescent until 1917. This was his first painting following his recuperation and is associated with synthetic Cubism. On his return from the war his friendship with Picasso had broken up. When he resumed painting he worked alone and developed a more personal style, characterised by simple shapes, brilliant colour and textured surfaces – a more legible Cubism. The bright lines used here for contouring separate the individual surfaces of which the figure of the musician is composed, providing a rational structuring of figure and space.
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EXHIBITIONS EXHIBITIONS
Brian Eno 77 Million Paintings Image courtesy of Lumen, London
Brian Eno 77 Million Paintings 18 Jan - 24 Feb Brian Eno 77 Million Paintings, Image courtesy of Lumen, London.
Orla McHardy Nitefeedz 18Brian Jan - 31 March Eno 77 Million Paintings Amanda Doran Flora & Fauna 18 Jan - 10 Feb 18 Jan – 24 Feb AIB Collection 18 Jan - 3 March Also showing: Martin Healy Terrain 18 Jan - 22 April Orla McHardy Nitefeedz to 31 March Stephen Dunne, 14 Feb - 10 March Amanda Doran Flora & Fauna to 10 Feb ADMISSION FREE
ADMISSION ALWAYS FREE
Gallagher Gallery / 15 Ely Place, Dublin D02Gallagher A213 Gallery / 15 Ely Place, Dublin D02 A213 +353 1 661 2558 / info@rhagallery.ie +353 1 661 2558 / info@rhagallery.ie www.rhagallery.ie
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www.rhagallery.ie
04/12/2018 22:39
Mary Swanzy: modern irish master
A major retrospective of the work of Mary Swanzy (1882–1978), one of the first Irish women to paint in the Cubist style, goes on tour in Ireland words edel cassidy
Mary Swanzy in Dublin 1908. Courtesy Mary Swanzy Estate
A
t the start of the twentieth century, as artists were breaking with tradition to create art for the modern age, Paris was the unrivalled centre of the creative avant-garde, attracting everyone from Pablo Picasso to James Joyce. In 1905 a young Irish artist, Mary Swanzy, moved to Paris where she visited the salon of the modernist writer Gertrude Stein, who had works by Gauguin, Picasso and Matisse in her collection. They were to make a lasting impression on Swanzy. Mary Swanzy was born in Dublin into an affluent family. Her father, Sir Henry Rosborough Swanzy, was an ophthalmic surgeon and vice president of the College of Surgeons. His successful career allowed his daughter access to training and education that would have been far beyond the means of most Irish artists at the time. Mary at-
Flowers and Lighthouse (1920s). Oil on canvas, 81 x 100 cm. Private Collection
tended Alexandra College, Dublin, the finishing school at the Lycée in Versailles, France, and a day school in Freiburg, Germany. This international education meant that Swanzy was fluent in French and German. On her return to Dublin, Mary took art classes at Mary Manning’s studio under the direction of John Butler Yeats. She also studied sculpting at the Metropolitan School of Art. The family residence
was at 23 Merrion Square, so she lived within walking distance of the National Gallery of Ireland, and spent a lot of time studying and copying the great masters. Her early output followed a very traditional path and, in accordance with her father’s wish that she specialise in portraiture, she produced many portraits. She had one accepted for exhibition by the Royal Hibernian Academy in 1905.
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Female Nudes with Horse and Viaduct (c. 1930s). 76 x 63.5 cm. Courtesy Pyms Gallery, London
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above: Composition (1927). Oil on canvas, 81 x 101.5 cm. Private Collection. left: Portrait of Sir
Henry Rosborough Swanzy (1905). Oil on canvas, 139 x 86.5 x 5 cm. The National Centre for the Arts and Health (NCAH), Tallaght
Girl on a Hill (1913–15). Oil on board, 30.5 x 20.3 cm. Private Collection
That year, however, she left for France to study. She arrived in Paris just as the Cubist movement was developing, and studied under Delécluse who had a studio for women. In 1906, she attended classes at the studio of the portrait painter De La Gándara and at Colarossi’s atelier. She exhibited with the Société des Artistes Indépendants in 1914 and 1916, in the company of Robert Delaunay and other Cubists, and was elected to the committee in 1920. Still struggling to establish herself, she returned to Dublin. But in 1920, against the backdrop of the violence of the Irish War of Independence, she left Ireland in a form of self-imposed exile. Her desire to stay away from her native country was probably quite personal. Her cousin, District Inspector Oswald Swanzy, was implicated in the 1920 murder of the Lord Mayor of
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Cork, Tomás Mac Curtain, and was shot and killed by the IRA later that same year. Her parents died just before World War I, and left her with an inheritance that would sustain her for the rest of her life. She was able to finance her art without sponsorship or having to rely on sales of her work. This granted her significant artistic freedom; not only could she train and travel extensively, but she did not have to adjust her style to suit patrons or commissioned work. While visiting her sister in Yugoslavia and Czechoslovakia, Swanzy painted landscapes, village life, and peasant scenes. She then travelled to Honolulu and Samoa and painted local tropical flowers, trees and native women with a palette and style similar to that of the Fauvists. She stayed
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for a time in Santa Barbara, California, working in a local studio and exhibiting some of her Samoan work at the Santa Barbara Arts Club Gallery. In the mid 1920s Swanzy settled in Blackheath, London, making regular trips to Dublin and abroad. She exhibited at St George’s Gallery, London, in 1946 along with Henry Moore, Marc Chagall, and William Scott, but after that her work fell into obscurity. This may, in part, have been due to her status as a female artist. She was vocal on issues of gender, once remarking, ‘If I had been born Henry instead of Mary my life would have been very different.’ Working outside the accepted conventions of her time, Mary Swanzy explored numerous styles throughout her lifetime and was one of the earliest
left: Young Woman with a White Bonnet
(c. 1920). Oil on canvas, 99 x 80 cm. Courtesy Pyms Gallery, London.
above: Samoan Scene (1924). Oil on canvas, 152.6 x 91.5 cm. Courtesy Ulster Museum
women to paint in the Cubist style. The first major retrospective of her work since 1968, Mary Swanzy, Voyages aims to reintroduce audiences to Swanzy’s extraordinary achievements and reinstate her as a modern Irish master. The exhibition is showing at IMMA, the Irish Museum of Modern Art, from 26th October 2018 to 17th February 2019. The exhibition will then visit the Crawford Art Gallery, Cork, 15th March–3rd June 2019, and Limerick City Gallery of Art, 20th June–15th September 2019.
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PORT RAIT
Michael Cinco Michael Cinco’s designs, with their opulent intricacy and unique juxtapositions of fabric and Swarovski crystals, have earned him the dedicated following of Hollywood stars and royals alike WORDS EDEL CASSIDY
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D
ubai-based Filipino Michael Cinco is one of the world’s most sought-after fashion
designers. His grand, luxurious designs have been worn by Hollywood A-listers like Beyoncé, Rihanna, Lady Gaga,
‘I pictured those fabulous heroines and imagined dressing them up in my creations’ Michael Cinco
He studied Fine Arts at the prestigious University of the Philippines Diliman, where he was a state scholar for two years. However, he felt that fine art was not really for him and decided to enrol at the iconic Slim’s Fashion and Arts School in Manila to study fashion design. In 1997,
Jennifer Lopez, Kylie Minogue and picturesque island of Samar in the Philip-
he moved to Dubai. Success did not
One of his most prestigious com-
pines. Blessed with a vivid imagination, the
come easy and he struggled for some
missions to date was the bridal gown
simplicity of his surroundings inspired him
time before making a name for himself.
for Victoria Swarovski, singer, fashion
to create his own fantasies. As a child, he
‘Moving to the Middle East was a big
designer, television star and heir to the
loved to watch classic Hollywood movies
leap for me,’ he recalls. ‘The region is a
Swarovski crystal fortune. The gown was
in black and white. He was so amazed by
haven of haute couture. In my first job in
made in delicate French lace and bead-
the glamour and sophistication of stars
Dubai, I reinvented the image of a slightly
work encrusted with minute Swarovski
such as Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn,
staid fashion house, and succeeded in
crystals, and it had a six-metre long
Marlene Dietrich and Joan Crawford that
injecting new fashion nuances. Now, it’s
train. The reportedly million-dollar dress
he dreamt of becoming a fashion designer.
great to know that the elite fashionistas
weighed forty-six kilograms. The bride
‘I pictured those fabulous heroines and
of Dubai eventually have recognised my
thanked Michael ‘for making me the most
imagined dressing them up in my crea-
passion for fashion.’
beautiful dress ever’, and the photos sent
tions. I chased after those visions …’ Sheer
the internet into meltdown.
hard work and determination, combined
to seek out more fashion inspiration. His
with a remarkable talent and creativity has
fascination for London’s mix of traditional
helped Michael to realise his dream.
elegance and contemporary edginess
Christina Aguilera, to name but a few.
Michael Cinco comes from humble beginnings. He was born and grew up on the
In 2002 he went to Paris and London
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made him stay there for a time. He decided to go on to further studies in fashion and pattern making at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design. Armed with fresh ideas and ready to face new challenges, he returned to Dubai and established his own label,
‘His fascination for London’s mix of traditional elegance and contemporary edginess made him stay there for a time’
In 2014, Michael was conferred with a Presidential Award for Outstanding Filipinos Overseas by then President Benigno Aquino III. This award is bestowed on Filipinos overseas who have distinguished themselves in their profession and have brought honour to the Filipino people. This award was well-deserved because, despite
Michael Cinco, in 2003.
his success and fame, he has never for-
In November 2011 his label received massive exposure when he won the
in Grazia Style Awards 2016. He has been
gotten his roots. When he began to earn
Breakthrough Designer award from the
chosen to be one of the elite members
‘real money’ his first thought was to help
WGSN Global Fashion Awards held in
of the Asian Couture Federation (ACF),
his family and send money home to his
Gotham Hall, New York, where he was up
headed by Kenzō Takada and ACF Pres-
parents. He regularly visits the Philippines
against top contenders. Many prestigious
ident Dr Frank Cintamani, which repre-
and the village that he came from. He is a
awards followed, such as Best Designer
sents the best designers in Asia.
generous and inspiring mentor, and helps
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to open doors for young aspiring Filipino designers. Sandy Lim-Higgins, President of Slim’s Fashion and Arts School, says, ‘He didn’t turn his back on the journey that he went through and the people that helped him along the way. He is very, very conscious of that and he is very encouraging of the next generations.’ Michael Cinco went on to debut his Autumn–Winter Collection at the 2016 Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Since then, he has wowed audiences at fashion weeks in Dubai, Miami, Los Angeles, Singapore, Australia and the Philippines, and has travelled with his
shows to New York and London. ‘A Michael Cinco woman is moneyed,’ he delights in announcing. ‘She may not be born into royalty but she better be married into it. My clothes appear seamless. They look heavy and yet they float. They look expensive simply because they are.’
‘My clothes appear seamless. They look heavy and yet they float. They look expensive simply because they are’
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IMAGINE • INSPIRE • CREATE
Studio B, The Carnegie Building, 121 Donegall Road, Belfast Call us on +44 28 9024 0040 or find us online at porcellanatilestudio.com
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04/12/2018 22:40
Do I really need an
Interior Designer? WORDS LOUISE HIGGINS
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question I’m often asked by potential clients is, ‘Why do I need an interior designer?’ There are lots of reasons to hire an interior designer, but here’s a summary of the main ones: • They can project-manage a home refurbishment or new build and coordinate with relevant tradesmen and suppliers to ensure a quality finish. • They will take responsibility for transforming your basic interior framework into an interior experience that meets your requirements in terms of functionality and style.
Getting renovations done can be stressful, so having professional help on board allows you to enjoy the design process, as designers can use their expertise to foresee and resolve any issues that may arise. The interior design process can be overwhelming, and it’s easy to make mistakes along the way. Not only will a good designer give invaluable guidance by, for example, choosing the right piece of furniture or the right paint colour first time round, but they can also add value to your home by choosing the correct interior design scheme to increase your property’s value. In addition, they can free up your time to allow you to focus on your own career or family. The key is to choose a designer who you are happy to work with. The scope of a project to some extent dictates the qualifications and experience required of the interior designer you are hiring. As with most professions, there are many extremely talented designers, but if you want to be sure of the qualifications of a particular designer, ask for credentials or ask around for references or referrals.
‘Getting renovations done can be stressful, so having professional help on board allows you to enjoy the design process’
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INTERIORS
Take the time to research various interior designers’ portfolios and look at reviews from their customers. There are many home owners who have wonderful design ideas, but without proper execution, these may never come to fruition. If you’re toying with the idea of taking on a renovation project and are considering the pros and cons of going it alone or engaging a professional designer, then I suggest you ask yourself the following important questions:
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‘Put together a scrapbook (paper or digital) of images of room designs that you like and show them to your designer’
• Are you decisive? Time is of the
utmost importance when working on a renovation and a badly timed decision can cause serious setbacks to your project, especially if a tradesman’s timeframe runs over – it will have a knock-on effect on the tradesmen that follow. This can result in a rushed job, which can lead to a poorer quality finish. • Are you aware of your own sense of style and the look you want to achieve for the space? If you are unsure, a good designer can help you fine-tune your interior taste buds so you have a cohesive style throughout. • Have you a set budget for your project and, more importantly, do you know how to make the most of your budget? If you decide to hire an interior designer, there are a number of services you can avail of – colour consultations, hourly consultations or the full interior
design service. Fee structures can vary from one designer to another – some charge flat fees, while others have an hourly rate, and some charge a percentage of the overall spend on the project. • Can you project-manage and multitask? Interior design is a serious multi-faceted profession and the services that a professional can offer are wide and varied, from design consultations, site measurement and assessment, space planning, design concepts, purchasing or procurement, creation of technical specifications for tradesmen, and project management. Professional designers have experience of working on many projects at the one time, and have the innate ability to juggle many tasks while ensuring that everything runs smoothly and in a timely manner.
A good interior designer works with clients to help them explore their ideas, and will adapt to work within the desired style and requirements. They will also have their ‘little black book’ of contacts to ensure the use of reputable contractors or suppliers. It’s these key relationships, which the designer has forged over many years of professional practice, that ensure you’re dealing with reliable, talented tradesmen, which in turn allows the design of your home to attain a level it would never achieve without their assistance and contacts. You may worry that a designer will come up with something you’re not comfortable with or, at worst, just can’t live with. A good designer will ensure they have an understanding of your sense of style before they commence a project. They will spend time with you to find out about your likes and, more importantly, your dislikes. A good tip is to put together a scrapbook (paper or digital) of images of room designs that you like and show them to your designer. An interior designer can transform your house into a beautiful home that reflects your taste and exceeds your expectations by using innovative and functional solutions to enhance your quality of life.
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interior design R E S I D E N T I A L , R E TA I L A N D C O M M E R C I A L
Phoenix Interior Design
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race Macdonald and Angelina Ball formed Phoenix Interior Design in 2014, combining their thirty years’ experience across residential, retail and commercial design. Both designers have worked tirelessly to develop their company, reputation and blue-chip client base, and have been awarded numerous tenders in the commercial sector ahead of well-established competitors. They offer a unique approach, drawing inspiration from clients, travels and international trade fairs. The design duo have grown their creative and logistics team to double digits and, this year, opened their very own design studio. They also have two warehouses and a retail space known to locals as a ‘treasure trove’ of unique accessories, stunning light fittings, home fragrances and bespoke custom-made furniture designed by Grace and Angelina. The extensive wallpaper and fabric library includes internationally acclaimed houses such as Zoffany, Designers Guild, Osborne and Little, Andrew Martin and Mathew Williamson, to name but a few.
114 Terenure114Road North, Dublin 6W Terenure Road North, Dublin 6W, Ireland. 9.30am1- 5.30pm. Sunday & Bank Holidays. +353 1 598 8300 info@phoenixid.ie T:Mon-Sat: +353 598Closed 8300 E: info@phoenixid.ie I www.phoenixid.ie
PHOTO CYRIL BYRNE - THE IRISH TIMES
Deirdre Mongey
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Deirdre Mongey Interior Design, 12 Avoca Wood, Avoca, Co. Wicklow T: +353 86 2623566 I E: info@deirdremongey.ie www.deirdremongey.ie
aving established her design practice twenty-five years ago, Deirdre Mongey has a wealth of experience in interior architecture and design. Her style combines contemporary and classic elements, and she works closely with builders, specialist finishers, and local and international suppliers to realise her designs. Deirdre is a strong advocate of the principle that intelligent design can truly change the quality of people’s lives. She views design as an opportunity to structure space, balancing functionality and aesthetics with style and colour, and she puts this into practice in her work both in Ireland and abroad. Deirdre believes that connecting with each individual client is the key to creating a beautiful home that truly reflects its owner. It is a testament to her work that many of her clients return for guidance years, or even decades, after those first connections are made.
Clontarf Interiors
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inda McNally of Clontarf Interiors believes that atmosphere and energy are essential ingredients in creating the personality of a home and in ensuring that your guests have an unforgettable experience when they visit. Most importantly, a beautiful home allows you to live in an environment that brings YOU pleasure every day. Clontarf Interiors offers a full range of interior design services. At an introductory meeting, Linda will get to know you and begin to develop a clear direction and scope for your project. This is also the opportunity to discuss budget and timelines. If you’re thinking of selling or renting your home, Clontarf Interiors offers a full house-staging service. This service will increase the value of your home for potential buyers. Clontarf Interiors are also suppliers of kitchens, bathrooms, sofas, wallpapers, lamps, rugs, flooring, wall panelling, etc. Visit the online shop to see what’s on offer.
Wellfield House Malahide Road Kinsealy Co. Dublin T: +353 87 827 4858 E: info@clontarfinteriors.ie www.clontarfinteriors.ie
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Jackie Tyrrell Design
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ackie Tyrrell lectured for eight years at the Dublin Institute of Design. Her experience embraces interior and graphic design, product branding and project management. She has a proud passion for good design. Her clients love her original and practical interior design solutions. She will consult at any stage of a building, renovation or decorating project. Her advice on intelligent space planning, electrical overlay and plumbing ensures efficient functioning, and her guidance on colour schemes and furnishings completes the picture. Jackie Tyrrell Design is ‘a one-stop shop for your design needs.’ T: +353 86 2778796 I E: jackie@jtd.ie I www.jtd.ie
Noelle Interiors
P Tanyard Lane Tullamore, Co. Offaly T: +353 57 9324555 E: info@noelleinteriors.ie www.noelleinteriors.ie
roviding a luxury interior design service by a team of awardwinning designers, Noelle Interiors specialises in bespoke curtains and Roman blinds, soft furnishings and headboards, all made in-house to an exceptional standard. Noelle has been designing for over thirty years, and she and her team can create the whole look – from paint colours, carpets and furniture – to suit many different styles and tastes. They can also create or assess layout plans for spatial planning, or simply help you choose the best wall colour. Visit the store to browse the many interior accessories, occasional furniture, bed linen, lamps, mirrors, picture frames, jewellery, candles and gifts. Or make an appointment now to plan that room or home you always longed for!
Wild at Design
Fresh Ideas
K
aren Mackay of Wild at Design understands how challenging it is to create a look for a home or business space that is beautiful and functions at its best. She will create a completely unique space for you, your family and guests to enjoy fully. From fixer-uppers to brand new, she will create a compelling, beautifully designed look. Interior Design Consultation: A collaboration between designer and client where budget, style and the needs of the client are discussed. Recommendations are made either at the time or as a comprehensive summary of the particular job. Home Staging and Organizing: Repurposing existing decor and/or adding new elements to bring style, efficiency and order to a home or business. Design/Build Project Management: From a new build to a historic restoration, Karen Mackay will endeavour to accommodate any budget and any location worldwide!
Attention to Detail
T: +353 87 438 7456 E: mackaykarenc@gmail.com www.wildatdesign.com
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LUXURY INTERIORS
BESPOKE FURNITURE HOME FURNISHINGS GIFTS QUIRC CAFE 1 The Forge Straffan Co. Kildare Telephone: 01 525 2330 Email: info@quircinteriordesign.ie Web: www. quircinteriordesign.ie
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Norton Bespoke
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luxury retail studio in the heart of Kilkenny’s medieval city, Norton Bespoke Interiors shop/studio is arranged over two floors with wonderfully unique pieces on display and a full sampling and meeting room for clients. Commercial and domestic clients can both expect excellence in design and attention to detail. Specialising in product sourcing and interior finishes, Norton Bespoke has direct links to Europe’s most respected manufacturers. Their services range from design only to full design, supply and fit through a fully insured team of tradesmen. Bespoke window dressing and lighting is also a popular service. No appointment is necessary, so pop in to say hello and have a look at our wonderful world of luxury interiors. Kieran Street, Kilkenny City Centre (just off Rose Inn Street) T: +353 56 7816807 / +353 87 410 5500 I E: info@nortonbespoke.ie
PHOTO LUXQUISITE PROPERTY LETTINGS
Mylestone Interiors
M
ylestone Interiors offer both commercial and domestic interior design services, from remodelling to turnkey projects. The flagship store in Killarney, Co. Kerry, is a must-visit location where you will find unusual and unique furniture, lighting and decorative accessories, and plenty of inspiration to help you decorate your own space and bring your personal design style to life. A wide variety of contemporary and traditional lifestyle products that sit beautifully among the fine furniture and bespoke design pieces can also be viewed online. Each item is carefully sourced to provide you with exciting pieces that are also functional, durable and timeless. In-store consultations are by appointment, when plans, colour schemes and ideas can be discussed to achieve the right solution for your home.
East Avenue Rd, Killarney, Co. Kerry, Ireland I T: +353 64 66263311 I www. mylestoneinteriors.ie
Quirc Interior Design
E
stablished by Catherine Quirke in 2006, Quirc Interior Design has since grown to become a leading provider of bespoke interior design services. Working with some of the most luxurious furnishing suppliers around the world, Catherine and her team have the ability to design inspiring interior spaces tailored to your individual tastes and requirements. Catherine believes in the importance of a well-designed interior and understands how to carefully balance functionality and aesthetics. With a wealth of experience, passion and creativity at the heart of the company, Quirc Interior Design is focused on giving you an unrivalled personal service. The Forge, Straffan, Co. Kildare I T: 01 525 2330 E: info@quircinteriordesign.ie I www.quircinteriordesign.ie
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R E S I D E N T I A L , R E TA I L A N D C O M M E R C I A L
114 Terenure Road North, Dublin 6W, Ireland. Mon-Sat: 9.30am - 5.30pm. Closed Sunday & Bank Holidays. +353 1 598 8300
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RCD Design
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osemarie Carroll’s love of design led her firstly to a career in graphic design, illustration and retail display, including a major refurbishment of Arnotts’ two cafes. Believing that interior design can make a real difference to people’s lives and how they feel about their world, Rosemarie established RCD Design in 2009 when she was shortlisted for a kitchen design award. She holds a Rhodec Advanced Diploma and a Higher National Diploma in Interior Design. Working on individual bespoke residential projects, Rosemarie is always on the lookout for beautiful things and inspiring spaces. She believes in empowering individuals to realise their home’s full potential, transforming and creating ‘the look’ they desire. No detail is unimportant. For Rosemarie, design is all about listening and a good rapport; it is a journey and a collaboration.
Glenageary, Co. Dublin T: +353 86 880 7879 E: rcddesigndublin@gmail.com W: www.rcddesign.ie
Aspire Design
F
ounded by Louise Higgins in 2008, Aspire Design is an award-winning interior design firm specialising in soft furnishings. Louise loves working with her clients and turning their aspirations into reality by creating stunning interiors that reflect their taste and requirements. She only uses professional tradespeople who have a proven track record in quality and service. Her work can be seen in many homes and hotels throughout Ireland. Louise is also founder of www.PerfectHeadboards. ie, which specialises in designer headboards, and she was the winner of TV3’s Showhouse Showdown.
Aspire Design Studio I Firmount, Clane, Co. Kildare T: +353 45 982265 I +353 86 399992 I E: info@aspiredesign.ie I W: www.aspiredesign.ie
Bazonk Interiors
T
rish Cullen of Bazonk Interiors, Wexford, has extensive experience in both private and corporate interior design projects. She brings her store to your door by providing a one-stop shop with relevant and appropriate sample books and mood boards, which in turn provide access to national and international brands and designers. Bazonk Interiors offers a full design package, saving you time and money when sourcing items. Bazonk also supplies fabric, wallpaper, furniture and lighting. Services include curtain and blind make-up and fit, as well as full fit-out packages for show houses and properties to let. Trish also provides a ‘House Doctor’ service to help you get the best price when selling a property with minimal spend. T: +353 86 605 2811 I E: trishcullen1@hotmail.com I www.bazonkinteriors.com www.facebook.com/bazonkinteriors I www.instagram.com/bazonk_interiors
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Luxury Interior Design Service Quality Furnishings & Accessories
KIERAN STREET, KILKENNY CITY CENTRE (JUST OFF OF ROSE INN STREET) T: +353 56 7816807 / +353 87 410 5500 I E: INFO@NORTONBESPOKE.IE
Jackie Tyrrell Design interior interior architecture ·. interior design ·. graphic design
Forall allyour your Commercial commercial and residential interior For & Residential interiorneeds, needs including Design & Build, Space planning, including design & build, space planning, Branding, Sourcing, Softfurnishings, furnishings & project Projectmanagement management branding, sourcing, soft and w: www.jtd.ie
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e: jackie@jtd.ie
m: 086 277 87 96
04/12/2018 23:04
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interiors
FloorPlans words louise higgins
The latest trends in flooring that meet the design demands of discerning home owners
When choosing flooring, it can be quite daunting to decide what’s best. And just what does ‘best flooring’ mean exactly? Several factors need to be taken into account, all of which depend on your individual situation. Floors tend to take a lot of abuse from dirty shoes tramping through the entryway, muddy paws scarpering through the rooms and chair legs scraping across the dining room floor. Apart from considering the abuse your floor will take, you’ll need to consider which option will look the best and stay in fashion. Here are some of the current flooring trends to get you inspired.
Herringbone and parquet Solid wood herringbone and engineered solid wood herringbone are two of the best-selling high-end floors. Grey woods with distinctive patterns are a popular choice for hallways and open-plan living areas. However, if you want to achieve this look for a smaller investment, consider laminate wood-effect flooring. Choose laminate that has dark and light tones throughout to add to the authentic look of your flooring. Other popular flooring patterns to consider are parquet and chevron.
Wood floors There is a growing demand for dark exotic grains that emphasise a sense of understated luxury. While light oak flooring is still popular, we are seeing a rise in darker, smokier wood flooring. Customers are looking for sustainable exotic species as they search for the less ordinary in the hope of creating a unique interior. Reclaimed wood floors are in high demand as they are full of old-world charm and allow you to embrace an authentic ‘old-and-worn’ look.
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Patterned tiles
Geometrics PoRCell ana tile stuDio
As we make a shift to statement flooring, we are seeing a lot of geometric patterns emerge as shape, along with form and texture, becomes a popular trend. Honeycomb tiles, elongated hexagonal tiles, etc. are now more prominent in flooring showrooms, as they can create a unique look for the on-trend homeowner.
We are currently seeing the re-emergence of patterned floor tiles as floors move away from neutral colours that blend into the background. Instead, we are seeing home owners mixing materials to zone areas, and the patterned floor tile plays a significant role in adding character and depth to a space. Artisan patterned tiles are proving very popular with home owners who have a renewed respect for the craftsmanship that goes into quality products. Vintage tiles have become a strong tile trend for both flooring and wall tiles.
Wood-effect tiles Wood-effect ceramic tiles are still growing in popularity and are right on trend. Available in a range of colours and textures, these tiles can be laid throughout the house for a unified look, or work just as well only in a kitchen or living room. If you want to continue the look outside, you can opt for a porcelain wood-effect tile.
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inteRioRs
Concrete flooring Concrete application for floors is growing in popularity. It’s a functional, utilitarian surface, perfect for a modern industrial feel, and is versatile as it can be honed and polished to a very smooth surface or left with its natural rough texture. To create a seamless flow you can decide on concrete walls and floors, using different finishes to add interest and texture. New print and staining techniques allow creativity with the design while still being practical and on trend. Although it’s low maintenance, concrete can scratch, but this wear and tear can add to its appeal and character.
Marble flooring A popular floor choice in recent times, marble is here to stay and it’s no wonder! This flooring adds a touch of opulence and luxury to any room and provides an amazing focal point. Another alternative to consider is marble-patterned porcelain tiles, which combine the grandeur and elegance of marble with the durability and strength of porcelain, making it ideal for modern living.
Area rugs It’s no longer wall-to-wall carpet as people become more aware of their room’s shape and want to use its space to its best potential. Zoning areas with rugs, particularly in openplan living spaces, is a great option. Area rugs are very popular, and lots of rug designs are available in a range of sizes, with options for custom sizes if required.
Louise Higgins, founder of Perfect Headboards and Aspire Design, is an award-winning designer and a graduate of the Interior Design Academy of Ireland. Louise is a full member of the Interiors Association and is also a member of the Crafts Council of Ireland. For further advice, contact Louise at 045-982265 or louise@aspiredesign.ie
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Porcellana Tile Studio Flooring is a key element in any home, so choosing the right material for your space and lifestyle is crucial. Porcelain tiles are hygienic, hard-wearing, difficult to scratch or chip and great with underfloor heating. Available in a plethora of finishes, sizes and patterns, porcelain is fantastic at mimicking other surfaces, such as wood, stone, marble and concrete, and its use isn’t restricted to the kitchen and bathroom – it can work just as well in other rooms. Be inspired at the award-winning Porcellana Tile Studio, which specialises in luxurious interiors for private clients, designers and architects, offering a boutique service, original ideas, exceptional quality and a friendly attitude. Studio B, The Carnegie Building, 121 Donegall Road, Belfast T. +44 28 9024 0040 I E. studio@porcellanatilestudio.com www.porcellanatilestudio.com
Unique Interiors At Unique Interiors you will find a dedicated team to help you choose the right floor for your needs and lifestyle. We stock a wide range of solid, engineered and laminate flooring and a broad range of herringbone and wide, long planks that are currently on trend. We are QuickStep master installers and pride ourselves on our outstanding finishes, with many happy customers over the years. A free measuring and fitting service is provided to the Dublin and surrounding areas. For a quick response to queries, message us through our Unique Interiors Facebook page.
14D Cherry Orchard Industrial Estate. Dublin 10 T: +353 1 467 0525 www.uniqueinteriors.ie Facebook: www.facebook. com/uniqueflooringdub/
Designer Rugs from Aspire Design Designer area rugs available at Aspire Design come in a wide array of patterns and colours – Harlequin, Villa Nova, Scion and Romo. Customers are offered the option of having a rug custom-made for their space to ensure it fits perfectly and to give their room a luxurious edge.
Aspire Design Studio Firmount, Clane, Co. Kildare T: +353 45 982265 / +353 86 3999926 E: info@aspiredesign.ie www.aspiredesign.ie
The Victorian Kitchen Company If you’re considering a salvaged or reclaimed floor, a visit to the Victorian Kitchen Company would be well worthwhile. Aged boards are full of character and are often the same price or less than new wood. It’s also an eco-friendly option, as it saves new wood from being cut. Because of the nature of reclaimed flooring, stocks are always changing. The best thing is to call in and see what’s currently available. The friendly staff at the showroom are really up to speed and have all the information you need regarding solid timber flooring. From storage, acclimatisation, fitting and sealing, they have plenty of experience with both brand new wood floors and pre-loved floors. The showroom is in Dublin city centre, just a five-minute walk from Trinity College. South Gloucester Street, Dublin 2 T: +353 1 672 7000 I E: info@victoriankitchencompany.ie www.victoriankitchencompany.ie
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BLOCK C, KILCOOLE INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, KILCOOLE, CO. WICKLOW T: +353 (0)1 281 7000 I E: keith@roundwooddesign.ie
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66 WINTER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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arts
+
culture
John Shinnors:
art of now
Featuring illustrated stories from his sketchbooks, Limerick artist John Shinnor’s recently launched book, Adult Reading at Artist’s Bedtime, is a collection of personal stories that are poignant, humorous and surreal words edel cassidy
O
ne of Ireland’s leading contemporary painters, John Shinnors, has never sought the limelight nor pursued fame. A self-proclaimed ‘Limerick Nationalist’, he rarely leaves his native city and has never felt the need, or had the inclination, to travel to find inspiration. But purchasers of fine art have continuously vied to own his work, making him one of Ireland’s most sought-after artists today. Purchasers of fine art fall into two categories – the investor and the collector. Those who look on art as an investment are generally people who buy for capital appreciation, a safe investment, portfolio diversification and to give them status among peers. Collecting art, on the other hand, is a passion, and the only reason collectors buy art is because they’re interested in the work and they know that buying art they love will bring joy and pleasure and therefore pays dividends every day. Buyers of Shinnors’ work fall into both categories. Why shouldn’t someone want to invest in or own a work by – yes, a genius? And what is there not to love about his work? I visited the artist in his studio to discuss his life as an artist, how he developed his unique style and the recent launch of his book. He didn’t have a burning desire or passion to become a successful artist when
he enrolled in Limerick Art School in 1967. ‘I don’t know why I went to art college! My parents didn’t care so long as I didn’t end up in jail. But I enjoyed my time there and it was good to be with like-minded people. I knew something would come out of it.’ He feels that he had a few lucky breaks that helped to establish his career. ‘I entered the GPA (Guinness Peat Aviation)
Awards for Emerging Artists in 1983. I had to submit three paintings and I wasn’t sure I would get very far. I got a call to say I was shortlisted in the final twenty out of 240 and eventually found out I was the joint winner. The deal was that one of the three paintings would be kept for the GPA art collection. The others were returned with a prize of IR£5,000, which
right: John Shinnors in his Limerick studio opposite: Catherine and Goose, extract
from Adult Reading at Artist’s Bedtime
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was a lot of money back then.’ Another opportunity came his way as a result of the award. ‘I was in Dublin to do an interview with RTÉ, at the RHA. Their new building in Ely Place was just being completed at the time. I dropped into the Taylor Gallery in Dawson Street and the owner, John Taylor, recognised me and asked if I would like to submit some work for their Christmas Group Exhibition. I did and sold two paintings. Brian Fallon, the art critic for the Irish Times at that time, liked my work and that helped also.’ His early work, which he describes as super-realist, was a little quirky and strange, a simplified representation style but clearly figurative, and it demonstrated the strong influence of his former teacher at Limerick Art School, Jack Donovan. Despite his success, Shinnors began to question his own work. ‘I wasn’t enjoying it. I felt I was becoming an illustrator, an imitator of real images. My work was that of a Surrealist painter, but not works of art. I decided to take a break.’ Following a short hiatus, he came out of the old Franciscan Church in Limerick one Friday morning and crossed the road where a small fish shop had a tray of mackerel in the window. A miracle – of fishes, without the loaves! That’s what I’m going to paint, he thought as he studied the bright metallic sheen and abstract motifs on the fish. Little did he know that this would be a life-changing moment. From then on, he mainly pursued an abstract
style, but not before a minor mishap. ‘I bought three mackerel, got the bus home and laid them out on a table in the garden to photograph them. The phone rang and I went inside to answer it. When I went back outside, the fish had disappeared into thin air. Then I noticed my dog was also missing! I found him in the
garden burying my fish.’ Luckily, he was able to retrieve them. When he first presented his new work, buyers were not impressed. Abstract art can be a hard sell in Ireland where buyers feel safer with traditional, representational art, but soon the tide turned and Shinnors’ work became more popular than ever. It would have been difficult to ignore because, whether representational or abstract, a Shinnors painting will always have a unique quality. He builds up his paintings through layers of glazing, giving depth, form and luminosity – a meditative quality that can only be achieved by a master painter. Interplays of black, white and grey in recurring fragments, themes or patterns feature strongly in his work. However, he reverts to
top: Scarecrow Portrait – 17, 2001, oil on canvas, 91 x 91cm left: (Left) Resurrection Painting I, 1978-1980, oil on panel, 152 x 114cm; (Right) Resurrection Painting II, 19781980, oil on panel, 152 x 114cm opposite: Extracts from Adult Reading
at Artist’s Bedtime
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aRTs ••• JS - book, v3g - rev_Layout 1 03/12/2018 14:52 Page 128
••• JS - book,
+
cUlTURe
v3g - rev_Lay
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ABoVe: Study of Three Fish (detail), oil on canvas, 183 x 198cm
a representational style occasionally. He likes to support the visual arts in Ireland through the Shinnors Scholarship for an MA in Curatorial Studies, in partnership with the Limerick City Gallery of Art, and the Shinnors Drawing Award, which sponsors a student from Limerick School of Art and Design. The most amazing thing about John Shinnors is the unassuming way he has gone about his work. He is dedicated to his craft and happy to spend quiet periods in his studio rather than focusing on being a personality in the art world. Despite this, the sheer quality of his work has earned him the success he deserves.
Although a quiet man, John Shinnors has always been a gifted storyteller, whether it be the story of the inspirational mackerel or various other exploits throughout his career and personal life. He recently launched a book featuring illustrated stories from his sketchbooks. Adult Reading at Artist’s Bedtime is almost like an autobiography presented in individual short stories. It is funny, honest and engaging. A limited edition and steal at €18, I sincerely recommend that you treat yourself to this collectable volume before they run out! Available at all good bookshops nationwide and the Hunt Museum, Limerick. Adult Reading at Artist’s Bedtime is published by Gandon Editions.
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Giving GIFT GUIDE
The Gift of WORDS DOLORES O ’ DONOGHUE
Picking the perfect gift for special people in your life can feel like an impossible task. From best friends to boyfriends, from partners to parents, there are endless possibilities – and endless opportunities to get it wrong. Gifts that thought has been put into always mean the most, so our advice is to go sophisticated, luxe and useful. Have a look at our selection of fabulous gifts to find the ones that will be remembered.
BeoSound Shape, Bang & Olufsen, 15 Duke St., Dublin A wall-mounted wireless speaker system for ‘off the wall’ music made especially for design-conscious music lovers. It delivers immersive sound staging, a customisable design and integrated noise dampers for improved room acoustics. The innovative and social music experience brings performers right into your room. BeoSound Shape cleverly uses a set-up with multiple speakers to deliver a concert-like perception of singer and instruments. With the vast colour choices and modular design concept, BeoSound Shape can be customised to match and elevate any living space.
Seascapes, The Carol Cronin Gallery, Green St., Dingle, Co. Kerry
Ladies and Gents Breguet Watches, Weir & Sons, Grafton Street and Dundrum Towncentre, Dublin His and Hers – Ladies Breguet Reine De Naples 8918 18k
Carol Cronin
This exquisite book is a
seascapes
celebration of Dingle artist
Rose Gold Strap Watch. Inspired by an early watch made by Breguet that was created for Bonaparte’s sister, the Queen of Naples. And a complementary Gents Breguet Marine 18k Rose Gold automatic chronograph watch. ‘To carry a fine Breguet watch is to feel you have the
Carol Cronin’s seascape paintings. It represents a selection of her
brains of a genius in your pocket.’ So wrote Sir David
recent works and is a testament to her ability to capture and convey
Lionel Goldsmid-Stern-Salomons, a barrister, philan-
the mesmerising qualities of the wild Atlantic sea.
thropist, Member of Parliament and founder of the
Seascapes is beautifully designed by Ros Woodham, and Carol’s
English Society of Engineers. Salomons amassed 124
works are spectacularly reproduced in full colour. This coffee table
Breguet timepieces in his lifetime and self-published
book allows the reader to enjoy the visceral act of turning the
the first biography of the father of modern horology,
pages as Carol’s beautiful seascapes are revealed one by one.
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823). ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 71
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Ashford Castle, Waterford Crystal, Midleton Very Rare Whiskey An exclusive cask of whiskey available from Ashford Castle complete with a bespoke crystal whiskey decanter and tumbler set created by Waterford Crystal. Bearing the Ashford Castle logo, the decanter is large enough to hold a full bottle of Ashford Castle Single Cask Single Pot Still Whiskey, and the set is complete with two beautifully cut handmade tumblers. The tumblers are designed with a wide rim to capture the complex aromas while sipping, and hand-cut patterns in the lead crystal reflect the whiskey’s rich caramel colour.
The Art of Movement 2019 Wall Calendar Based on the bestselling book by Ken Browar and Deborah Ory, this collectible wall calendar celebrates the beauty and power of dancers. It features a variety of well-known and accomplished dancers. Each month presents a beautiful photograph
Apple Watch Nike+, Compu b, Dublin, Cork, Limerick and Galway
celebrating the grace and beauty of the dancer,
Shares its design and advanced internals with Apple Watch Series
along with an inspirational or thoughtful quote.
4. Like past models, buyers get two extra watch faces and a special
This calendar is perfect for dance fans around the
Nike-designed band.
world, young and old alike. Available on Amazon.
The perfect running partner with the Nike Run Club app, but for most people that’s just one facet of their training. That’s why Nike created the Nike Training Club app for a world of different workouts and experts. Easy to use as a walkie-talkie, make phone calls, send messages, listen to music and use Siri in all-new ways right from the wrist.
Jean Lowndes Calendar Dublin artist Jean Lowndes has produced a calendar with twelve high-quality images of original paintings. Using a palette knife and oils in vibrant colours, Jean’s paintings are incredibly rich and inviting. They are characterised by an impasto technique, which creates depth, mood and atmosphere. She is well-known for her paintings of woodland, trees, poppies, and coastal scenes with little yachts, and for her series of fun paintings of balloons, ‘Let’s Celebrate’, and her latest series, ‘The Farm’. Available from www.jeanlowndesart.ie 72 WINTER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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GIFT GUIDE
Clarins Shimmer and Shine This limited-edition capsule make-up collection recently launched by Clarins will certainly brighten up the winter days – and nights. The collection includes: • Illuminating Powder – presented in a gold compact with a splatter of shiny little stars. Used to sculpt and highlight the complexion. • Instant Light Lip Comfort Oil – combines the high shine of a gloss with the soothing benefits of an oil and is available in two shades. • Gold Mascara Top Coat – to dress the lashes in a fine golden sparkle. Can be used on its own or as a topcoat.
History of the Royal Hibernian Academy of Arts The Royal Hibernian Academy of Arts, founded in 1823 and still active today, is renowned for its annual exhibitions. In the nineteenth century it also ran an art school. Despite its galleries and school in Lower Abbey Street being destroyed by fire during the Easter Rising in 1916, the Academy survived in borrowed space until its new gallery in Ely Place, still incomplete, opened in 1985. The Academy’s history, one of change, conflict and adaption, is beautifully narrated by John Turpin in this stunning two-volume compendium: Volume One (1823–1916), and Volume Two (1916–2010). Published by Lilliput Press.
Wild Cocoon, Scarves, Cowls and Blankets, Claremorris, Co Mayo Deirdre Duffy hand-weaves quality textiles on a foot-operated floor loom. She draws inspiration from the traditional, but gives it a contemporary twist. Using strong colours and bold patterns, Deirdre makes scarves, cowls and blankets that are for everyday enjoyment, not just for special occasions. Wild Cocoon scarves, cowls and blankets can be worn all year round in our changeable climate, whether you’re outdoors or in. The new oversized scarf is a statement piece that cocoons the wearer in soft, warm lambswool. Wild Cocoon blankets are weighty, cosy and comforting, and provide luxurious protection from the elements. Available to purchase online at www.wildcocoon.ie ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 73
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29/11/2017 04/12/2018 12:15 23:23
Peter Dee
Best known for his still life paintings, Peter Dee’s style is contemporary realism with wide appeal. In the tradition of still life painting, he paints all his subjects from life in natural light settings. He conveys a sense of drama in his paintings through the arrangement of objects of distinctive shape, colour and texture and through their relationship to the space around them. His latest theme includes French vintage enamelware and fruit.
The elegant enamel pieces are placed with cherries, apples or other fruits to provide ‘peaceful’, balanced compositions with contrasts in colour and distinctive textural relationships. Peter is a member of the prestigious Dublin Painting and Sketching Club, and exhibits at the annual Kilkenny Arts Festival and Wexford Opera Festival. He has also exhibited widely throughout Ireland, and his work is exhibited at the Doorway Gallery, South Frederick Street, Dublin.
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Joe Flannery Dingle Design
I
rish artist Joe Flannery is giving us a new fresh view of Kerry’s iconic coastal landscape with a striking contemporary feel. He clearly shows his architectural roots in his recent collections. His use of imagery and colour strikes a chord at many levels. Joe sees art as an expression of energy and likes to feel that everyone can experience this. His analytical vision of images on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way recreates powerful seascapes with a strong use of vibrant colours. His connection to the sea extends far beyond painting. As a long-time sailing enthusiast he has a viewpoint of this rugged coastline not seen by most people. He can usually be found in his studio and gallery on Main Street in Dingle, while his work is on view in other significant galleries in Kerry and is sought by enthusiasts on both sides of the Atlantic. Gallery at Main Street, Dingle, Co. Kerry T: +353 87 1733814 I E: dingledesign@gmail.com I www.dingledesign.ie
Miriam Smithers Visual Artist
A
contemporary oil painter, Miriam Smithers takes inspiration for her work from observing the human form and how we, as people, interact with each other. Her paintings of urban street scenes with stylish modern figures are instantly recognisable. She likes to study people’s posture, their emotions and the tangle of human relationships in everyday life, the space they occupy and the spaces in between while ‘Life Goes On As It Must’...... Her fascination with both the human form and urban architecture is evident in her work. The backgrounds are muted and tonal, creating mood and atmosphere, with shocks of bold colour bringing the figures to life. Miriam has exhibited her work in a number of galleries and venues throughout Ireland and England, and many of her timeless paintings are part of collections in the United States, Great Britain and Australia. T: +353 86 0573820 I E: miriamsmithersartist@gmail.com I www.miriamsmithersartist.com 76 winter 2018 anth o lo g y
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A contemporary landscape painter based in Cork city, Cora works across a variety of mediums and enjoys exploring intuitive and experimental processes. Taking inspiration from the natural world, Cora has created several series in response to the Kerry Bogs, the Mayo Lakes, the Cork and Kerry coastlines, the Wild Atlantic Way, throughout Ireland and overseas. Upon completion, Cora releases her new work directly and exclusively to her mailing list. She also has a collection of limited edition prints, and shares her love of landscape and painting in her ‘Abstracting the Landscape’ weekend painting workshops. Studio visits by appointment.
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www.coramurphy.com
i 04/12/2018 23:18
HAUTE COUTURE Winter 2018 Anthology brings you the most inspirational shows of Winter 2018 Haute Couture Week, fashion’s most extravagant and influential event. Creativity and inspiration abounded throughout the immaculately presented collections
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IRIS VAN HERPEN
Fashion designer Iris van Herpen is one of fashion’s most talented and forward-thinking creators. This collection, ‘Ludi Naturae’, features boundary-pushing construction and innovative material techniques in which tulle is laid onto a 3D-printer, which prints directly onto the fabric. Vivid and optimistic, sheer and delicate, fusing the artificial with the organic, the collection blends a natural colour palette of blurred hues. ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 79
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RALPH & RUSSO
The collection, inspired by French fashion icon Jacqueline de Ribes, encapsulates the zeitgeist of the eighties, channelling the splendour, frivolity and palette of the era. Serving as a reminder that couture is art to be worn, the gowns ooze glitz and glamour, whether they’re more traditional in style with tiered ruffles or breezy kaftan-gown hybrids in chiffon. 80 WINTER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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RANI ZAKHEM
A vibrant and sparkling collection of fluid silhouettes that celebrate and accentuate the body. The luxurious fabrics – silk chiffon, nude tulle, crinoline with scatterings of crystals – evoke a sense of glamour and understated elegance. This collection features intertwined cascades of lianas that are hand-embroidered with sequins and white, bronze, silver and gold braided threads. ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 83
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ZIAD NAKAD
Ziad Nakad elevates his couture art to new heights by envisioning the fairy tale of The Snow Queen. The exquisite collection of enchanting dresses is inspired by the glistening white caps of majestic mountains. These breathtaking evening dresses will appeal to women who want to make a dramatic entrance and charm everyone with sophistication and glamour. 84 WINTER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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Mastering the Some simple steps to help stay focused in a world full of distractions
Art of Focus
WORDS JEANNIE CROUCHER
H
ow many times have you tried to
1
Decide what you need to focus on
an eight-second attention span – yes, even
concentrate on a task, at work
and why. You need to target your priori-
less than that of a goldfish. In addition to
or at home, only to become
ties and decide which of them are worthy
this, our instincts for survival are geared
distracted? The phone rings, somebody
of the time you intend spending on them.
up to focus on what’s important – usually
stops by for a quick chat, you check your
This is a great time to revisit your goals,
anything that moves. It’s all too easy to
Facebook/Twitter notifications and see
map out what they are and imagine
be distracted by pop-ups on a computer,
that your best friend is having a great time
what the future will be like when you’ve
phone or tablet. To eliminate distractions,
drinking cocktails on an exotic holiday.
achieved them. Writing down your goals
try turning off notifications coming from
And then all the comments under her
and the methods you’ll use to achieve
various websites and social media platforms.
post just have to be read… which reminds
them goes a long way to help focus the
you of the message your sister sent the
mind. It will also help you to motivate
other day about a funny video, which you
yourself and get in the right headspace,
only designed to work efficiently for a
find yourself taking a quick look at again.
which then helps you to plan your time.
certain length of time. We lose focus if we
Then you realise there are twenty emails that must be read and responded to… and on and on it goes.
2
6
Take short breaks. Our brains are
try to sustain long periods of work withDevise a work plan. Try to visualise
out stopping for a break. We’ve learned
what your workday or week will be like
from research into High Intensity Interval
and what you want to have achieved by
Training (HIIT) that the body benefits
yourself off (if your boss hasn’t done it
the end of it. Once you’ve decided on your
most from short bursts of high-intensity
already) for not meeting the deadline or
priorities, write them down and work out
exercise. The mind works in a similar way.
getting on with the project at hand.
a strategy for getting there.
By giving yourself lots of short breaks – to
It’s easy to become frustrated and tell
Well, fear not. There are lots of tips and techniques – many of them scientifically
3
have a healthy snack or to walk around Break it down. Often we feel over-
for ten minutes – you reset the brain and
proven – to help you minimise distraction
whelmed by the scale of a project. It may
and improve your chances of staying
seem insurmountable, particularly if there
focused, thereby increasing overall pro-
is only a limited amount of time in which
ductivity and finally getting you to where
to complete it. The best thing to do in this
completed the tasks you set yourself,
you want to be.
situation is to break the project down into
it’s a great idea to reward yourself. Treat
smaller bite-sized tasks, which you can
yourself to a cup of your favourite coffee
tick off as you work through them.
or allow yourself some me time. The
‘Writing down your goals and the methods you’ll use to achieve them goes a long way to help focus the mind’
4
7
Reward yourself. When you’ve
added benefit of having a coffee or tea Unplug. Ask yourself if it’s really nec-
is that caffeine increases your sense of
essary to check your phone or email thirty
alertness and can give you a lift, particu-
times a day. Why not put your phone on
larly in the afternoon when energy levels
silent mode when full concentration is
are often flagging.
required and decide that you’ll only check for messages/emails every couple of
Focusing doesn’t always come naturally –
hours or so.
it takes practice – and the more you focus,
5
86-87_health-focus_pix.indd 86
improve your concentration.
the better you will be at it. The rewards Turn off notifications. We live in a
can be huge. Why not start today and
fast-paced, technologically driven world.
you’ll be amazed at what you can achieve
According to research, human beings have
when you put your mind to it.
06/12/2018 20:23
LIFEST YLE
ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 87
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W I N T E R A P E R I T I VO WORDS TOM WEBER
Serving a cocktail before dinner is a courtesy to guests but it also has a purpose
K
nown as an aperitif, the before-din-
and Cocktail Bar in Naturno,
ner drink prepares the stomach for
where German is spoken and
food and the palate for the delicious
Italian understood.
tastes it is about to enjoy. Aperitifs can be
Gruber jump-started the craze by
served to guests at an elegant dinner party
mixing Prosecco sparkling wine, soda wa-
or enjoyed any night of the week at home.
ter, fresh mint leaves and lemon syrup, and
Here’s a palate-pleasing cocktail to
casually called his creation the Hugo/Ugo
wrap your hands around that’s already a
for no apparent reason. He later tweaked
big hit up in the rarefied air of Italy’s South
the recipe, dropping the lemon syrup and
Tyrol and a serious rival to the more
adding a syrup made from elderberry
popular Aperol Spritz of Venice and the
flowers, an indigenous plant that thrives
Campari Spritz of Milan.
across the European Alps. VOILA!, the
The Hugo Spritz (Ugo in Italian,
real Spritz Hugo was born and continues
pronounced OOH-goh) is the preferred
to stand at the peak of popularity around
aperitivo around the Dolomites. Re-
bars, chalets and other watering holes that
beans (mosqui-
freshing and light, the Hugo has been
dot the wintery landscape.
toes) floating in
high-altitude tested by respected baris-
Elderberry – Sambucus Nigra (Latin),
the glass – sciroppo di
tas. Germans and Austrians will no doubt
Sambuco Nero (Italian) – is the plant
sambuco is bright yellow,
disagree, but this après-ski on-the-rocks
from which elderflowers are transformed
very sweet and comes out
was created in 2005 by Italian barista
into sciroppo di sambuco, a syrupy-sweet
thick, like a syrup should. Not
Roland Gruber at the San Zeno Wine
cordial that is the key ingredient to
too much of the elderflower syrup
a properly prepared Hugo. Not to be
is needed in the Spritz Hugo, just
confused with sambuca – the strong, clear, liquorice-flavoured liqueur with the signature three coffee
enough to let you know it’s there. The Hugo, when properly mixed, is 4/5 Prosecco and 1/5 elderflower syrup. Best of all, it’s super easy to make. Here’s how it’s done:
• Place ice cubes in a glass • Pour in the Prosecco • Add the syrup • Add a splash of soda water • Garnish with fresh mint leaves and a thin slice of lemon • Stir gently • Enjoy! 88 WINTER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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06/12/2018 20:24
FOOD
Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort
receives prestigious Food Award ahead of 2019 Resort is delighted to announce
W
at the fine dining Munster Room Res-
it has been awarded a place on
taurant, exclusive functions at the Castle,
McKennas’ 100 Best Restaurants list for
The Fitzgerald Bar menu, in-room dining
2019 after the appointment of new head
and the King’s Channel Clubhouse. He has
chef Tom Spruce.
already put his stamp on the menus and
aterford Castle Hotel & Golf
Tom gained his culinary expertise
As head chef, Tom oversees operations
reinvented the Castle’s classic afternoon
through working in top-class kitchens with
tea. His surprise tasting menu is being
some of the best chefs in Ireland, many of
showcased on select winter dates.
whom have been awarded Michelin Stars.
Tom brings his creativity, knowledge
At Restaurant FortyOne, Dublin, he worked
and passion to each plate, and delights the
under award-winning chef Graham Neville,
guests of Waterford Castle with exquisite
and he got his first taste of Michelin Star
dishes that are influenced by his experience
cooking under Garrett Byrne at Campagne
of working in Germany, Poland, the UK
Restaurant, Kilkenny.
and Ireland. Through this extensive
Tom was recently reviewed by Sally and
international grounding he has the ability
John McKenna, and Waterford Castle has
to create menus that feature innovative
now been awarded a McKennas’ Guides
combinations and tastes.
plaque, the most respected badge of merit in Irish contemporary food.
Waterford Castle: leave your worries at the shore t. +353 51 878 203 e. info@waterfordcastleresort.com w. www.waterfordcastleresort.com Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort The Island | Waterford
He believes there is a strong link
Winter Castle Luxury Escape 1 night, Dinner and B&B from €278 Winter Castle Luxury Escape 2 nights, Dinner and B&B from €408
between scent and taste and memory, and that food memories can evoke
and luxury to make it a key component of
nostalgic feelings of belonging and
Ireland’s Ancient East.
visceral self-awareness. His best food
Waterford Castle is an internationally
memories start with the healthy, nutritious
renowned destination providing an
taste of Irish butter and cream.
opportunity to taste the very best of
Past and present come together at Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf Resort,
traditional and contemporary Irish cuisine. Located on 310 acres of private island
where a rich and robust history blends
and accessed by private car ferry. This
seamlessly with contemporary comfort
Castle escape is not to be missed. ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 89
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WINTER DINNER MENU Discover the delicious taste of gas cooking with Neven Maguire’s wholesome winter menu.
Neven Maguire
BEEF BOURGUIGNON
(Serves 4-6)
The secret to this French classic is to use a full bottle of wine and just a little stock to give another flavour dimension. It’s good enough to serve at a dinner party, but also great for a family dinner because once it’s cooking away, you’re free to do other things. It can also be cooked with great success in a slow cooker if you have one – just follow the manufacturer’s instructions for exact timings.
25g (1oz) butter 2 tbsp rapeseed oil 350g (12oz) small shallots, peeled 100g (4oz) pancetta or rindless streaky bacon, cut into small, thin lardons 675g (1½lb) chuck steak, cut into bitesized pieces
1. Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/gas mark 3). 2. Heat half the butter and oil in a large frying pan. Add the shallots and fry until they are just beginning to brown, then tip in the pancetta or bacon and fry until lightly browned. With a slotted spoon transfer to a plate. 3. Place the beef pieces in a ziplock bag with the seasoned flour. Shake until well coated, then remove, shaking off any excess. Add to the pan and fry until lightly
50g (2oz) seasoned plain flour
golden on all sides. Transfer to a casserole with a lid.
1 bottle of Burgundy red wine
4. Add a little of the red wine to the frying pan and scrape the bottom to remove
150ml (¼ pint) beef stock
any sediment. Pour this on top of the beef with the rest of the red wine and the
2 carrots, chopped
stock, carrots, celery, bay leaves and thyme. Add the sautéed shallots and
2 celery sticks, chopped
pancetta and season to taste. Stir to combine, then cover with a lid and place in
2 bay leaves
the oven for 2 hours, until the meat is tender but still holding its shape.
2 tsp fresh thyme leaves, plus extra to garnish
5. Halfway through cooking, heat the remaining oil and butter in a large frying pan
225g (8oz) small chestnut mushrooms, trimmed
brandy and cook for another few minutes, then stir into the casserole and return
2 tbsp brandy sea salt and freshly ground black pepper crusty French bread, to serve
and cook the mushrooms until just tender and lightly browned, stirring. Add the to the oven for the remaining cooking time. 6. When the beef bourguignon is ready, season to taste and garnish with the thyme leaves. Serve straight to the table with a bowl of crusty French bread to hand around.
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FOOD
V EG ETA B L E S O U P W I T H B A R L E Y
(Serves 4-6)
To me, this soup is the closest thing you’ll get to a hug in a bowl. It’s my mother’s recipe and something she always made for me when I was little. I now make it for Amelda when she’s feeling under the weather. 50g (2oz) pearl barley 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 2 celery sticks, diced 1 onion, diced 1 carrot, diced 1 small leek, trimmed and diced 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme 50g (2oz) rindless streaky bacon, diced (optional) 1.2 litres (2 pints) vegetable or chicken stock 1 tbsp chopped, fresh, flat-leaf parsley sea salt and freshly ground black pepper crusty bread, to serve (optional)
FRUITY BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING (Serves 4-6) An Irish country kitchen classic with a soft set texture, an exquisitely light spicing of nutmeg and vanilla, a few finely chopped prunes and sultanas, and a wonderful buttery top. It’s even more delicious when made with day-old croissants or brioche.
4 eggs 300ml (½ pint) milk 150ml (¼ pint) cream finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 1 vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped out 50g (2oz) caster sugar 250g (9oz) sliced white bread (6 slices) 75g (3oz) butter, softened, extra for greasing 75g (3oz) ready-to-eat dried prunes, finely chopped 75g (3oz) sultanas good pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 4 tbsp marmalade icing sugar, to dust pouring cream or vanilla ice cream, to serve
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/gas mark 4). 2. Lightly butter an ovenproof dish about 25cm x 16cm (10in x 6in) and 2.5cm (1in) deep. 3. Beat the eggs, milk and cream together in a large jug. Mix together the lemon rind and juice, vanilla seeds and sugar in a small bowl, and then add to the egg mixture, beating lightly to combine. 4. Spread the slices of bread with the softened butter and cut off the crusts, then cut into triangles.
1. Place the pearl barley in a sieve and rinse well under cold running water. 2. Heat the rapeseed oil in a large pan over a medium heat and stir in the celery, onion, carrot, leek and thyme. Add the bacon, if using, and sauté for 5 minutes, until the vegetables are softened and the bacon is sizzling. 3. Pour in the stock, add the rinsed barley and bring to the boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, until the vegetables and barley are completely tender but still holding their shape. 4. Stir in the parsley and season to taste. To serve, ladle the soup into warmed bowls and accompany with a basket of crusty bread.
5. Scatter half the prunes and sultanas into the bottom of the buttered dish and arrange a layer of the bread triangles on top. Pour over half the egg mixture, pressing the bread down gently. Repeat the layers with the remaining ingredients and sprinkle the nutmeg on top. 6. Place the dish into a roasting tin and fill the tin with warm water until it comes three-quarters of the way up the dish. Bake for 30–35 minutes, until just set. 7. Meanwhile, sieve the marmalade and heat it in a small pan. Brush the top of the cooked pudding with the marmalade to give it a nice glaze when it comes out of the oven. 8. Dust lightly with icing sugar. To serve, cut into slices while still warm and arrange on warmed plates with pouring cream or ice cream. ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 91
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A Gift of
scent
words edel cassidy
P
erfumes are always a popular gift at Christmas and on Valentine’s Day. Picking the right one can get a little
perilous, but when you do get it right it’s a wonderful way of showing your friend or loved one that you’ve given it lots of thought. It shows that you know them well enough to pick a perfume they’ll love, one that suits their tastes and matches their personality. And you might just find something for yourself along the way! Not sure where to start? Here are some suggestions:
Sisley Eau du Soir Tiger Walk Limited Edition Just released, and a definite collector’s item for the perfume connoisseur, is a limited edition of Sisley’s popular fragrance. Eau du Soir Tiger Walk is feminine but bold and wild at heart. Finely adorned with leopard print, the bottle plays with transparency and delicacy, allowing the luminous fragrance to shine through. It also comes complete with an 18-carat matte gold-plated bottle stopper. The box is emblazoned with the two-tone leopard spots, which are layered over graphic, stylish lines. A classic chypre, this is a regal fragrance that is wonderful at all stages of its development, and its longevity is outstanding. An enticing and timeless scent, perfect for the refined modern woman.
v
my top picks
Burren Frond Eau de Parfum For those who appreciate a rich, sensuous floral perfume, Frond Eau de Parfum is the perfect choice. The freshness of cut grasses sharpens the rich scents of wild rose, violet and ylang-ylang, while soft sandalwood base notes bring depth and finish. This perfume is blended and bottled by hand at the Burren Perfumery in Co. Clare, where all products are made on site in small batches. A core part of the company’s ethos is to use sustainable ingredients, and to create and maintain rural employment. This lovely perfume stands up well to the best of international brands, both in terms of quality and presentation.
Inner Senses Sensual Body Oil Not strictly a fragrance in the traditional sense, but ideal for those who like to focus on the healing and nurturing properties of nature. This range of organic and natural body oils is formulated to treat the skin and deliver therapeutic properties to improve well-being. My favourite, especially for this time of year, is Sensual. It has a deep, exotic floral scent of jasmine, and the timeless, heady sweetness of the finest Bulgarian rose, ingredients long known for their aphrodisiac properties. Brought together here, they work in synergy to make this beautifully indulgent body oil truly worthy of its name. Using only the purest, most ethically sourced organic ingredients, this oil is vegan and cruelty-free.
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beaut y
Elemis Life Elixirs Fortitude Perfume Oil Elemis Life Elixirs range is designed to help achieve positivity and inner harmony, and provides a unique sensory experience that is easy to fall in love with. Fortitude is a great one to consider for someone who needs a little lift. It’s an empowering fragrance formulated with a scientific blend of nineteen pure essential oils, including delicate ylang-ylang, cedarwood and geranium. Ideal for those who like a perfume that’s more than just ‘scent’. The human sense of smell works on a cerebral as well as physical level, and this oil is the one for those who like to feel grounded, strong and motivated for the challenges ahead.
L’Occitane Terre de Lumière
Thierry Mugler Angel Perfume Perfume has the ability to transport you back decades, conjuring up a specific moment in time and flooding you with nostalgia. Angel is a fragrance that invites women to relive warm childhood memories. It’s a delicate blend of sweet red fruits, soft caramel, honey and praline, combined with the captivating power of patchouli and vanilla – all encapsulated in a luminous gem-like star. The Angel Star is not just a perfume bottle but also a multi-faceted crystal reflecting light and shadow, blue and silver, energy and desire. It’s a universal yet distinctive shape, synonymous with the infinite, modern yet timeless.
This scent is inspired by a special time of day in Provence known as the Golden Hour when the beautiful rich hues of the fleeting sunset can be seen. The first gourmand aromatic fragrance by L’Occitane, Terre de Lumière is fresh and youthful, but its edible ‘notes’ of honey and almond give it an enveloping warmth – perfect for winter days. The bottle is iconic, elegant and feminine – just like the fragrance. It’s flooded with golden hues, an ode to the Provence light. I found the aroma to be long-lasting, subtle and uplifting, with an unexpected sweet heart of lavender honey and an edgy musk base note.
Le Labo Looking for something unique for someone unique? Recently I had time to do some gift shopping at The Loop while waiting to board a flight in Dublin Airport and was fascinated to find Le Labo perfumes. The pop-up boutiques encapsulate the soul of Le Labo – ‘the laboratory’ – and represent La Labo’s New York roots. The brand prides itself on creating perfumes that evoke memories by reworking classic notes into something entirely original. I decided to take advantage of the complimentary personalised service whereby labels can be customised while you wait. The brand’s simple, chic aesthetic and penchant for masculine notes has attracted somewhat of a cult following, offering niche unisex fragrances for men and women alike. A winner – my friend was delighted with the gift. Next time I’ll be treating myself!
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DESIGNER OF DREAMS
Christian Dior:
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exhibition
The Victoria and Albert Museum, London, hosts a major retrospective on the French couture label Christian Dior words dolores o ’ donoghue
F
ollowing the success of Christian Dior: Couturier du Rêve, which took place at Paris’s Musée des Arts last year to commemorate the seventieth anniversary of the Parisian haute couture house, the blockbuster exhibition travels to London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, opening in February 2019. Entitled Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, it is the largest and most comprehensive exhibition ever staged in the UK on the House of Dior. Spanning 1947 to the present day, it traces the history and impact of one of the twentieth century’s most influential couturiers. More than 500 objects and 200 rare haute couture garments chart the trajectory of the house from its founding by Christian Dior in the 1940s through the tenures of the six artistic directors who have succeeded him: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri. Ensembles are shown alongside accessories, make-up, fragrance, photography, film, magazines and Christian Dior’s personal possessions, and the exhibit includes a special new Anglophile section exploring the designer’s influence in Britain, including the Dior dress worn by Princess Margaret at her twenty-first birthday party (on loan from the Museum of London). In February 1947, two years after the end of the Second World War, Christian
Dior presented his debut haute couture collection in Paris. Following years of rationing and austerity, the public was longing for luxury again. Women wanted to leave behind the square silhouette and utility clothing of the war years, which economised on fabric, and Dior was more
above: Christian Dior with model Sylvie, circa 1948. Courtesy of Christian Dior opposite: Écarlate afternoon dress, Autumn-Winter 1955 Haute Couture collection, Y line. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Photo © Laziz Hamani
‘Ensembles are shown alongside accessories, make-up, fragrance, photography, film’ ANTHOLOGY WINTER 2018 95
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than willing to oblige. The most prominent features of the collection included soft rounded shoulders, cinched waists and voluminous A-line skirts. This overtly feminine hourglass silhouette became the iconic look of the late forties and early fifties. Carmel Snow, editor-in-chief of American Harper’s Bazaar and fashion’s most powerful voice from the 1930s to the 1950s, was responsible for coining the phrase ‘the New Look’. When she witnessed Christian Dior’s iconic collection she exclaimed, ‘It’s quite a revolution, dear Christian, your dresses have such a new look’. With one throwaway sentence of gracious praise, Carmel Snow (who
was born in Dalkey, Co. Dublin), created a tagline for the most famous fashion collection of all time. English society went mad for Dior, and he showed his second collection at the Savoy Hotel, London, in the autumn of 1947. It was received with such acclaim that the Queen (the late Queen Mother) requested a separate private viewing the following morning for members of the royal family, including her daughter
‘This overtly feminine hourglass silhouette became the iconic look of the late forties and early fifties’
left: Pérou short evening dress, Autumn-Winter 1954 Haute Couture collection, H line. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Gift of Cecil Beaton. Photo © Laziz Hamani above: Sketch by Christian Dior for model Londres, Autumn-Winter 1950 Haute Couture collection © Christian Dior
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exhibition
left: Princess Margaret accompanied by Sir Oliver Harvey while arriving to the Bal du Cercle Interallié benefitting the British Hertford Hospital in Paris, November 21, 1951. © Rue des Archives/AGIP. below: Princess Margaret presents Christian Dior with a scroll entitling him to Honorary Life Membership of the British Red Cross © Popperfoto, Getty Images
above: Yves Saint Laurent in front of Christian Dior London, 11th November 1958. © Popperfoto, Getty Images
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left: Christian Dior with model Lucky, circa 1955. Courtesy of Christian Dior below: Diorling perfume, 1963. Photo © Laziz Hamani
Princess Margaret. It was perfect timing for a young princess beginning a great love affair with fashion and who would later visit him in Paris to order a number of outfits. ‘She crystallised the whole popular frantic interest in royalty,’ Dior wrote. ‘She was a real fairy-tale princess, delicate, graceful, exquisite.’ Princess Margaret once stated, ‘my favourite dress of all… was my first Dior dress, white strapless tulle and a vast satin bow at the back.’ Curated by Oriole Cullen, fashion and
textiles curator at the V&A, the exhibition is a major collaboration between Christian Dior Couture, Parfums Christian Dior and the V&A. Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams runs from 2 February–14 July 2019.
‘More than 500 objects and 200 rare haute couture garments chart the trajectory of the house from its founding by Christian Dior in the 1940s’
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AApresent presentthat thatsurprises surprises over overand andover overagain. again.
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covers.indd 17
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Winter 2018 Issue 09 13/12/2018 11:33
Winter 2018 Issue 09
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